Crumbs Cotswolds – Issue 62

CRUMBS COTSWOLDS NO. 62 Christmas 2017

A little slice of foodie heaven What do you get if a partridge flies into a lawnmower?

Shredded tweet!

NO. 62 Christmas 2017

BYE-BYE

TO THE BE ST BIT S

(AND HELLO THERE, 2018!)

!

S T EN S E R P R U FEEL O BS GOES

FESTIVE FEASTING!

TORTELLINI! CRUMS SHOPPING SALSA VERDE! XMA FOCACCIA! IT’S YULETIDE, ITALIAN STYLE

£3 WHERE SOLD

THIS C-DAY, Y A L I AM F R U O Y E K MA

I’M ALAN, THE PARTRIDGE

ONLY THE GUY WHO INVENTED COMPTOIR LIBANAIS

wentwOrth TALKS MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS

FROM THEST REGION’S BE COOKs

IOUS E IC L D A E R A THESE FAT FOWL

KITO

#2 ELLY

BELT-LOOSENING RECIPES

E G I D T R PAR FAMILY

ILLED! GRILL BUMPER TWIN-PACK #1 TOUNSY

ONE YEAR ON!

8

REVIEWED!

30 MINSUT!TE ROA

FIG ThE CLOSE ThE POTTING ShED

I, PaRtridGe WE’RE AT THAT TIME of year again when the whole country seems to chorus, ‘Can you believe it’s Christmas already?’ And it’s true, this year does seem to have flown by – probably, at least in part, because there’s just been so much going on. In foodie terms, I hope you’ll agree that it’s been a pretty ace twelve months here in the Cotswolds, with tons of new openings, new chefs and awards galore.

So, as we prepare to drop the mic on 2017, let’s all just take a minute to give some love to the fab producers, restaurateurs, chefs et al who have kept us so finely fed and watered over the past 12 months.

In case you’re not already fully in the Christmas spirit, we’ve got loads of festive features in this issue to help you along the way, from an Italian-style Christmas Supper Club to recipes fit for any Yuletide table, and endless Crimbo treats to stock up your larder. We also celebrate the plump little partridge, who – when not perched in his pear tree – is really rather yummy.

So, as we prepare for the inevitable onslaught of turkey, mince pies and more Baileys than may be strictly necessary, there’s just one thing left for me to say.

Have a very tasty Christmas, and a delicious New Year!

Emma Dance Editor emma.dance@mediaclash.co.uk

Crumbs is now an app!

Search ‘Crumbs’, or go to crumbsmag.com

3

CRUMBSMAG.COM

Dine with wine for ÂŁ35 Includes 2 main courses and a bottle of red or white wine.

Quote Crumbs to get complimentary tea and coffee with your meal!

This offer is only valid from 2nd-31st January. This offer is not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. The 2 main courses will be from an individual menu and supplement charges may be incurred if an alternative item is requested.

Tel: 01993 822695 | www.cotswold-gateway.co.uk | cotswoldgateway@wadworth.co.uk

crumbsmag.com EDITOR

EMMA DANCE emma.dance@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ONLINE EDITOR

DAN IZZARD dan.izzard@mediaclash.co.uk

Table of Contents

ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM DESIGN

NO.62 CHRISTMAS 2017

VICKY MITCHARD ADVERTISING MANAGER

DANIELLE MORRIS danielle.morris@mediaclash.co.uk SALES EXECUTIVE

JAKE NEWLAND jake.newland@mediaclash.co.uk

STARTERS

PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER

KIRSTIE HOWE kirstie.howe@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION DESIGNER

GEMMA SCRINE gemma.scrine@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version

large version

MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800 www.mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash.

MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication.

Opinions are those of individual authors.

Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management.

This month we’ve been taking great delight in planning our Christmas menus. (We're gonna be the hosts with the mosts!)

8 HERO INGREDIENT And what, you say? A partridge in a pear tree...?

ADDITIONAL RECIPES

12 OPENINGS ETC Food news to peruse

10 Open partridge and pancetta toasties,

by Tom Kitchin

14 IN THE LARDER Stock up on Yule yumminess

18 Civet of venison with ceps,

by José Pizarro

16 AWESOME FOURSOME Brush up your culinary skills at these ace cookery schools

38 Riciarelli biscuits,

by Giovanna del Perugia

KITCHEN ARMOURY

CHEF!

AMAZING RECIPES FROM THE REGION’S TOP KITCHENS

34 SUPPER CLUB Festive feasting, Italian style

22 Salted roast turkey,

by Gillian Kerton

39 THE WANT LIST Magnificent metallics

24 Mince pie Eton mess,

by Ben Bullen 26 Venison burger,

by Lucy John 28 Pheasant Wellington,

by Richard Craven 30 Pear and blackberry tarte tatin, by Daylesford

5

MAINS 42 WHAT A YEAR! Some of our favourite foodies share their highlights of 2017 48 GRILLED Tony Kitous shares his love of Lebanon (and its yummy food!)

CRUMBSMAG.COM

52 PARTY HEARTY Get the lowdown on all the New Year’s Eve haps 55 GRILLED Elly Wentworth talks MasterChef: The Professionals, one year on

AFTERS

NEW & NOTABLE RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, BARS

60 The Potting Shed 62 The Close 64 Fig PLUS

66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Chef Darren Stephens’ tastiest hotspots

Fresh, local produce cooked with style, imagination and flair...

Our meat is supplied by Jesse Smith butchers and we pride ourselves on our fresh fish and seafood, delivered daily from Cornwall.

The Stableyard, Black Jack St Cirencester GL7 2AA 01285 641497 | info@jessesbistro.co.uk

www.jessesbistro.co.uk ab

INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

ChANGING SPACES THERE’VE BEEN SOME big changes at Whatley Manor over the past month.

Grey’s Brasserie (the hotel’s more casual restaurant) has had a complete refurb. Once (somewhat bizarrely) decked out like an Alpine cabin, it’s now fresh and modern with banquette style seating, leather-clad walls and a cool neutral colour scheme. The menu’s been devised by exec chef Niall Keating and his talented sous chef George Dingle, and is packed with classic British comfort dishes, including traditional Sunday lunches and a water crust pork pie, served tableside, which is gaining a bit of a must-try rep.

That’s not the only change at the country house hotel, though. The Green Room – once a low-key function space – is now fully kitted out for some serious food and drink-based fun – think cookery demos, tastings, cocktail tutorials and special lunch and dinner events.

It’s being headed up by Laetizia Madsen, who comes fresh from a stint at the three Michelinstarred Benu in San Francisco. Check out the website for upcoming events. whatleymanor.com

7

CRUMBSMAG.COM

S T A R T E R S

PartRIdGe NO, THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTRIDGE IS NOT ALAN, NOR – HELLO, MUM – THE LATE DAVID CASSIDY OF THE PARTRIDGE FAMILY, BUT THIS ROBUST LITTLE CHAP: RICH, INTENSELY FLAVOURED, AND FULL OF WINTER COMFORT…

8

CRUMBSMAG.COM

w

hen people talk of ‘a bird in the hand’, it’s probably this wee fella they’ve got in mind.

Appealingly chubby and round, partridges aren’t quite rabbit-cute, but it’s close: indeed, these medium-small game birds are one of those species it can feel mean to kill. Closely related to both pheasant and junglefowl, they live across Europe, Asia and some of Africa, and don’t migrate, giving each area its own distinct varieties.

The ancient Greeks had an explanation for why partridge fly with whirring wings so close to the earth – it’s what makes them such a popular game bird, of course – and nest on the ground, not in trees: they’re scared of heights. When Daedalus – the chap who built the labyrinth for King Midas, and created wings of wax and feathers for a prison break with son Icarus – threw his nephew, Perdix, off the sacred hill of Athena in a jealous rage, the first partridge witnessed it, and was forever scared away from high places by watching him fall.

British partridge come in two types: the grey English ones (once common, now less so) and the larger red-legged or French variety, originally from southern Europe. The former are compact and full of flavour, with delicate, tender flesh – think one bird per person. The red-legged version is milder and quite a bit bigger, perhaps enough for two. Both are ideal starter birds to tempt people into the world of game, being more versatile, ‘chicken-y’ and less intimating than most, and with a milder, less ‘gamey’ flavour. Plus, they’re so cheap that buying a couple doesn’t seem much of a risk.

Like most game, partridge is best hung for a few days, making it both more tender and gamey at the same time – the younger the bird, the less you need to hang it. In fact, with young ’uns you don’t need to do very much at all: they’re great simply roasted or grilled, and served like a mini-Sunday roast with a light gravy (perhaps just its own juices mixed with a bit of wine and some redcurrant jelly), a bit of bacon to moisten the bird’s lean flesh, and an earthy sidekick like potatoes, or perhaps those traditional game chip things. (These are particularly chin, crispy chips made of any old root veg odds and sods – celeriac, parsnip, beetroot, Jerusalem artichoke, whatever – sliced super-thin, deep-fried in groundnut oil, then crisped up in the oven.) Bread sauce would be an idea, too.

Because they’re small, these birds need less time in the oven to cook than most poultry – half an hour at 220C should do it – and are best served pink and juicy. Be sure to keep checking them as you cook, and remember to leave them to rest for five minutes after taking them out of the oven. Or, try sautéing instead of roasting – it’s a good way to take the risk out of the whole business. Since you have more control, you may find it easier to get to the platonic ideal of juicy breast meat, more intensely cooked legs and wings, and that all-important crispy skin.

With older birds, slower cooking is probably the thing – think braising or stewing – to tender them up and bring out the flavour.

As with all game birds, a good way to tell the age is to give the breast bone a slight bend. If it’s soft and pliable, it’s good for roasting; hard and unyielding and you’ll want the pot. Of course, as the season goes on you’ll find fewer and fewer very young birds.

9

Bacon or Parma ham go great with these guys; a side of Savoy cabbage too. Other great flavour partners are wild mushrooms, blue cheese, and any sweet, caramelised fruit or veggies, be they mangos or butternut squash, chicory or orange, blackberries or chestnuts. (Think the perfect Victorian Christmas and you won’t go far wrong.)

For something with such a traditional image, though, these little birds are quite happy to go exotic too – so a Thai partridge curry would work, or a pot-roast with cider, or partridge paella.

In fact, don’t think you have to follow the classic French cookbook to the letter, as red-legs are big in places like Spain and Morocco too, and they’ve bequeathed us a range of more colourful, spicy game bird recipes.

So pair it with chorizo (a no-brainer, we know); roast it with harissa; stuff it with ginger, fennel and coriander; or try it Greekstyle, with spinach, olives and feta. The joy of game isn’t just that the beasts have generally led an excellent life, though they have, but that the depth of flavour is so much greater than with any farmed meat.

Partridge is readily available from early September, generally heralding the start of game season, until the beginning of February, so you want to start experimenting with them now.

Perhaps try cooking them with seasonal pears in tribute to the infamous partridge in a pear tree, unlikely star of one of the great Christmas carols, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’.

Not that the two are natural companions – as strictly a ground bird, no self-respecting partridge would ever think to make its home up there…

CRUMBSMAG.COM

R E C I P E

OPEN PARTRIDGE ANd PANCETTA TOASTIES WITh ONION COMPÔTE

BY TOM KITCHIN

INGREDIENTS SERVES 4 4 partridge breasts, skinned olive oil butter for spreading 4 sourdough bread slices 2 hard-boiled free-range eggs, sliced 8 pancetta rashers, cooked until crispy watercress sprigs 4 slices Cheddar cheese (my cheese of choice for this recipe comes from the Isle of Mull, but any strong Cheddar would do) sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the onion compôte (The onion compôte is ready to use as soon as it is made, or it can be stored in a covered container in the fridge for up to 3 days) 50g butter olive oil 2 white onions, sliced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 tsps thyme leaves METHOD 1 Begin by making the onion compôte. Heat a well-seasoned sauté or frying pan with a lid over a medium-high heat, then add the butter with a splash of oil. When the butter is foaming, add the

P H OTO GR A PHY © M A RC M IL L A R

Who doesn’t love a toastie? This open partridge toastie is my way to take the toastie experience to a whole new level. I love to serve it with an onion compôte, which brings a lovely natural sweetness to the dish. Don’t be shy to experiment and add other ingredients, to give this recipe your own personal touch.

onions, garlic and thyme and then season with salt and pepper.

2 Cover with a wet piece of greaseproof paper, cover the pan with the lid, turn the heat to very low and leave the onions to sweat for 20-25 minutes until they are very tender. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

3 When you’re ready to cook, preheat the grill to high.

4 Meanwhile, place a partridge breast in between 2 sheets of cling film and use a meat mallet or rolling pin to lightly bash until flattened. Repeat with the remaining breasts. Pat the breasts dry and season them all with salt and pepper.

5 Heat a well-seasoned sauté or frying pan over a medium-high heat, then add a splash of oil. When it’s hot, add the breasts and sear them for 2-3

10

CRUMBSMAG.COM

minutes on each side until cooked through, then set aside to rest for 5 minutes, covered with kitchen foil. Fry the breasts in batches, if necessary.

6 Toast the sourdough slices on both sides under the grill, then lightly butter each. Do not turn off the grill.

7 Spread the pieces of toast with the onion compote and add the egg slices. Top with the partridge breasts, crispy pancetta, watercress and finally the cheese. Place the toasties under the grill until the cheese melts, then lightly season with salt and cracked pepper.

Recipe taken from Tom Kitchin’s Meat & Game, by Tom Kitchin (Absolute Press, £26)

partytime••maytime

christmas••party 2 courses for £19.50 3 courses for £24.50

CELEBRATE NEW YEAR’S EVE WITH US WE HAVE LIVE MUSIC AT 10PM FROM THE AMAZING JOHN JAMES NEWMAN FROM BBC’S THE VOICE AND FIZZ FOR ALL AT MIDNIGHT!

Food served 6pm-9.30pm.

Book now to avoid dissapointment.

Carriages at 2am.

Check out John on Twitter @johnjamesnewman or Facebook at facebook.com/JohnJamesNewman DECEMBER OPENING TIMES 1st-24th December: Open as normal (11am-11pm, Lunch 12-2:30pm (3pm on Sundays), Dinner 6-9:30pm every day) 25th December: Closed 26th December: 11am-4pm. Lunch from 12-2:30pm 27th-30th December: Open as normal 31st December: 11-2am. Lunch from 12-2:30pm and Dinner from 6-9:30pm 1st January: 11am-4pm. Lunch from 12-2:30pm 2nd January onwards: Open as normal

01993 822068 info@themaytime.com www.themaytime.com Asthall, Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4HW

S T A R T E R S

the

instA FEED

We’ve got a hankering for mulled wine now that we’ve spotted this pic from @daylesfordfarm

PIZZA THE ACTION

The Pizza Pilgrims are returning to home turf with a new opening in Oxford – their first outside London. Founders Thom and James Elliot grew up near Chipping Norton before heading to the big smoke, where they started selling pizzas from the back of an Italian Piaggio Ape van kitted out with a woodfired oven. Now they have six London sites, and the latest addition to the empire is the new restaurant in Oxford’s Westgate Centre. Pizza Pilgrims specialises in pizza (well, d’uh!) made in a traditional Neapolitan style, and to honour the new location they’re working on a creating an Oxford special, using ingredients sourced from around the area. pizzapilgrims.co.uk

FRYING hIGh

Turns out @callaghanstudios isn’t just an ace photographer – he also makes rather good chocolatey, meringuey things, too…

Good luck to Cirencester’s Malt and Anchor fish and chip shop, which is in the running for the title of the UK’s Best New Fish and Chip Shop in Seafish’s National Fish and Chip Awards. The chippie has beaten off tough competition to reach the final three in the competition, and now faces an even more rigorous judging process. Director Dan Lafford says: “I have always wanted a fish and chip shop with a difference, and I think we have created something quite special here.

Now all we have to do is go and win this thing!” maltandanchor.co.uk

IN THE DIARY...

GREAT STEAKS

Congrats to Jesse Smith butchers in Cirencester, which has just scooped the award for the Best Butcher’s Shop in the South of England at the Butcher’s Shop of the Year awards. Owner and director David Hawes says, “The Butcher’s Shop of the Year awards are very prestigious, and we are both honoured and surprised to win in our category. It’s a real testament to the hard work of all of our staff.” jessesmith.co.uk

12

CRUMBSMAG.COM

(December 10) CAROL CONCERT AT WHATLEY MANOR Enjoy a Champagne and canapé reception before a carol recital by the award-winning Noctis chamber choir.

The evening finishes with a three course dinner with wine and coffee in Grey’s Brasserie. Tickets cost £99. whatleymanor.com (December 27) CHILDREN’S FLORAL CHRISTMAS CROWNS WORKSHOP AT DAYLESFORD Young students will enjoy a tour of the gardens learning about plants, before selecting their own flowers to transform into gorgeous floral decorations and headpieces. The workshop is suitable for ages 8-14 and costs £25. daylesford.com

S T A R T E R S

In the Larder

Festive fLavOURs STOCK UP ON THESE CHRISTMASSY ESSENTIALS AND YOU’LL BE THE HOST WITH THE MOST THIS YULETIDE!

1 ROSEBUD PRESERVES CHRISTMAS FRUIT CHUTNEY £3.60/198g This wonderfully rich chutney is made with prunes, dates, apricots, aromatic allspice and strong dark ale. It’s an ace addition to a cheeseboard, but can also pair rather well with leftover cold meats.

It’s available from Whole Foods in Cheltenham or online. rosebudpreserves.co.uk 2 CARLUCCIO’S PANETTONE ALLA CREMA PROSECCO £19.95/900g Is it bread? Is it cake? Who cares, cos it’s flippin’ lush! The panettone is made by three cousins who run a bakery started by their grandmother in Veneto, and here the Italian Christmas speciality has been given a bit of a twist – it’s been carefully piped with a creamy custard laced with local Prosecco. Delish! You can get one from Carluccio’s in Cheltenham. carluccios.com 3 DAYLESFORD ORGANIC CHRISTMAS CAKE £20/800g The Daylesford bakery team begins its Christmas prep early, so that the flavours in all their puddings and pies have plenty of time to develop and to fully mature. This richly-fruited traditional Christmas cake is hand made and is packed with juicy vine fruits, cherries and zesty citrus peels that have been steeped in brandy and spices. daylesford.com 4 TODENHAM MANOR FARM CHRISTMAS BOX from £49.99/serves six This meaty whopper of a box contains everything but the bird!

There’s 1.5kg of sausages, 250g of bacon, 2kg gammon joint, 2kg beef topside joint, 12 pigs in blankets and

12 sage and onion stuffing balls, so there’s plenty to see you and the fam all the way through the festivities.

What’s more, all the meat is raised at Todenham Manor Farm near Moreton-in-Marsh. todenhammanorfarm.co.uk 5 T2 MULLED WINE MAGIC LOOSE LEAF TEA £16/120g This festive favourite encapsulates all the aromatic flavours of traditional mulled wine, with a touch of spice and a squeeze of tangy citrus. (And because it’s non-alcoholic, it’s totes fine to sip on it from first thing in the morning!) Pick some up from T2 in Cheltenham or Oxford. t2tea.com 6 OPIES BLACKBERRIES WITH GIN £8.99/400g We are massive fans of these boozy fruits, not only because they are blimmin’ delicious but because they’re surprisingly versatile, too.

Add them to cocktails, spoon them over ice cream or serve with a stack of pancakes and fresh whipped cream. (Or we might have been known to spoon them straight from the jar, but sshhhh – don’t tell anyone!) Get them from Waitrose or Ocado. opiesfood.com 7 BUTTERMILK FESTIVE FLAVOURS FUDGES from £2.99/100g Yummy, traditional handmade fudge infused with Crimbo-esque flavours like mince pie, gingerbread, cranberry and orange, or Irish cream – what’s not to like? Nothing, that’s what! Pick up a small box as a stocking filler, or a bigger box to share with guests. (We wouldn’t judge if you just scoffed it all yourself, though.) You can get some from Lakeland in Cheltenham. buttermilk.co.uk

14

CRUMBSMAG.COM

8 PAXTON & WHITFIELD LIMITED EDITION FINEST ENGLISH STILTON JAR £28/500g This limited edition jar comes in Paxton’s classic cream and grey with gold lettering, elegant bevelled detailing and a tactile gloss finish.

It is hand-filled with a generous portion of the ‘King of Cheeses’, which is creamy with a pleasant herby tang. Munch it with crackers or crusty bread, and sip a glass of vintage port alongside for the ultimate cheese experience. And once it’s done you’ll be left with a very pleasing jar to remind you just how good it was… Get it from Paxton & Whitfield in Stratford-upon-Avon. paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk 9 FRIARY CHRISTMAS SPIRIT £9.99/250ml Bursting with intense ginger flavour, then infused with Scottish whisky and Christmas spices, this festive tipple will leave your tastebuds tingling. Enjoy over ice in a cosy room with a roaring fire, and you’ll have no trouble getting into the Christmas spirit. It’s available at Dobbies in Cirencester. friaryliqueurs.co.uk 10 SAVOURSMITHS PARMESAN AND PORT CRISPS £2.49/150g Forget about your run-of-the-mill salt and vinegar or cheese and onion: Savoursmiths are crisps with some seriously flamboyant flavour combos going on. Truffle and rosemary, Champers and Serrano chilli or Wagyu beef with honey mustard are all seriously good, but for festive appeal we’d plump for the Parmesan and port. Pick up a pack (or seven) from Jolly Nice Farm Shop in Frampton Mansell. savoursmiths.com

2

3

1

5

6

4

1

7

10

8

4

9

15

CRUMBSMAG.COM

S T A R T E R S

Awesome Foursome

GET SCHOOLED! IF YOU WANT TO BRUSH UP ON YOUR SKILLS, THEN HEAD TO ONE OF THESE ACE COOKERY SCHOOLS

#1 Cookery Doodle Doo If you’ve got a young aspiring chef in the family, then get them booked in for a class at Cookery Doodle Doo in Cheltenham, which caters for children between three and 10 years old.

Each class uses fantastic quality ingredients to cook fun and tasty recipes with your kids in a friendly, relaxed way. Among the classes on offer are pre-school sessions, which include craft making as well as cooking, and a monthly Sunday Morning Pudding Club, where the youngsters will make a family-sized pud – ideal for Sunday lunch!

Cookery Doodle Doo also runs delightfully creative parties and private lessons, sometimes ‘pop up’ for a cookery class in a venue or at an event near you, and occasionally take cookery sessions into preschools, nurseries etc. cookerydoodledoo.com/cheltenham

#2 Lucknam Park Cookery School The stylish, purpose-built cookery school at Lucknam Park, kitted out with the latest stateof-the-art appliances, is sure to give you some serious kitchen envy! There’s a whole host of courses on offer throughout the year, with

favourites including Michelin Star Cooking at Home, Fish and Shellfish, Discover Thai and Creative Canapés. Next on the agenda are some seasonal specials, including Festive Baking, Winter Warmers and January Detox.

The school is headed up by award-winning chef Ben Taylor, who leads most of the courses, with the hotel’s Michelin-starred executive chef, Hywel Jones, sharing his expertise in the Michelin Magic class.

And if you’d like to extend your Lucknam experience, then you can book into one of the sumptuous rooms for the night. lucknampark.com

#3 Ashburton Cookery School If you fancy travelling a little further afield, then check out Ashburton Cookery School in Devon. The school runs more than 40 classes suited to everyone from beginners to the keen home cook, and even those who aspire to cooking professionally.

Courses run over half days, full days, weekends and five days for the amateur cook, or between four weeks and nine months for those seeking a professional qualification.

All the tutors are professional chefs and are renowned for their outstanding classes, which

16

CRUMBSMAG.COM

is why people come back time and time again.

Cookery classes run seven days a week, 350 days a year, and you can stay over at the nearby Ashburton Court. ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk

#4 Foodworks Cookery School Established eight years ago on the historic Colesbourne Estate, just a few miles from Cheltenham, Foodworks Cookery School has gained a glowing reputation for its fabulous range of classes led by top-class tutors. The Italian and Lebanese Kitchen classes are firm favourites with clients, but with everything from bread making to Asian Street Food, Low Carb, High Veg, ‘Men in the Kitchen’ and Family Christmas Days all on the agenda, there’s something for everyone.

As well as the regular team of pro chef tutors, Foodworks hosts guest tutors from time to time. The school is also available for team building days, where cooking is combined with activities like duck herding, or it can be hired out to guest chefs, photographers and companies hosting development days. And if you’re in need of a last minute Crimbo gift idea, then they do vouchers too! foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk

B O O K

O F

T H E

M O N T H

CHECK OUT THE FRESHEST ADDITIONS TO MARK TAYLOR’S EVER-EXPANDING FOODIE BOOKSHELF...

P H OTO GRA P H Y © L AU RA E DWA R DS

CATALONIA José Pizarro Hardie Grant, £25

With the northeastern Spanish region of Catalonia in the spotlight since its controversial independence referendum, this is certainly a timely release for José Pizarro’s latest book.

London-based chef Pizarro is a passionate ambassador of this region, which has always had a strong identity and desire to hold on to its unique culture and cuisine. Divided into chapters on meat, fish, vegetables and desserts, this beautifully illustrated book captures the essence of traditional and new recipes, whether it’s duck, pumpkin and pardina lentil salad, salt-baked sea bream with orange and pickled red onion salad, or clementine sorbet. There’s also a handy directory of the best places to eat and drink in Barcelona, making it as much a guide as a cookbook.

CIVET OF VENISON WITH CEPS SERVES 8 INGREDIENTS

1 ½ kg haunch of venison, cut into large pieces 660ml Spanish lager 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 bay leaf 2-3 sprigs of thyme olive oil, for frying 200g chorizo, cut into chunks 500ml fresh beef stock 25g dried ceps

18

CRUMBSMAG.COM

METHOD

1 Put the venison in a bowl with the beer and all the vegetables and herbs. Leave to marinate for 3-6 hours. Drain, saving the liquid and vegetables. Pat the meat dry with kitchen paper and season well.

2 Heat a layer of oil in a casserole dish and brown the venison and chorizo all over.

Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add a little more oil and fry the reserved vegetables for 10 minutes, then return the meat to the dish with the reserved cooking liquid. Bubble for a few minutes, then add the stock and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 2-2½ hours, until the meat is very tender.

3 Soak the ceps in 150ml boiling water until softened. Drain, reserving the liquid, and roughly chop. When the stew is nearly done, add the ceps and reserved soaking liquid and finish cooking. Serve with creamy mash.

HAWKSMOOR: RESTAURANTS & RECIPES Huw Gott and Will Beckett Preface, £30

Since it opened its first place 11 years ago, Hawksmoor has become something of a steakhouse institution, with seven award-winning restaurants. Hawksmoor: Restaurants & Recipes is an essential read for anyone interested in the realities of restaurants; it reveals the trials and tribulations the team have encountered, as well as the people and plates that have made it so successful.

Bringing together recipes from all the Hawksmoor restaurants, the book gives insights into how to cook signature steaks like the Tomahawk, as well as favourites like mac ’n’ cheese and the famous steak slice. There is also a chapter of fish and shellfish recipes from Mitch Tonks, the Devon-based chef who has helped Hawksmoor develop its seafood dishes, including lobster ’slaw and fried ‘queenie’ scallops with devilled tartare.

MARKET COOKING

THE PALESTINIAN TABLE

David Tanis Artisan, £32

Reem Kassis Phaidon, £24.95

Weighing in at 480 pages and featuring 200 recipes, the latest book from New Yorkbased chef David Tanis is his most ambitious yet. Tanis, who for 25 years worked at the hugely influential Californian restaurant Chez Panisse, guides the reader through the market, ingredient by ingredient, with fuss-free seasonal recipes accompanied by photographs of both step-by-step techniques and finished dishes.

Although dishes such as cumin lamb pittas and French chicken tarragon catch the eye, this is a book that makes vegetables the star of the show. Seared cauliflower with anchovy, lemon and capers; parsnips with turmeric and feta; and glazed shiitake mushrooms with bok choi and sesame are among the deliciously simple meat-free dishes that make this book such a delight.

19

While interest in Palestinian food has blossomed in recent years, the authentic dishes have until now remained relatively unexplored. The Palestinian Table takes us on a vibrant gastronomic journey across Palestine, showcasing the rich culinary history of the area. Reem Kassis was born in Jerusalem to a Palestinian family of accomplished home cooks, and this book is packed with dishes inspired by three generations of family tradition.

The 150 recipes have been adapted to suit the modernday cook, while still retaining traditional techniques and flavours. From cauliflower fritters and spinach and chickpea stew, to lamb and yoghurt rice stew and chicken, onion and sumac casserole, these easy-to-follow recipes demonstrate that Palestinian food is simple, yet the dishes have a real depth of flavour.

CRUMBSMAG.COM

THE SPORTSMAN Stephen Harris Phaidon, £29.95

The long-awaited book from self-taught chef Stephen Harris of Michelin-starred Kent gastropub The Sportsman is more than simply a collection of recipes. This is a beautifully written book telling the story of the journey that took a rundown, sticky-carpeted coastal boozer and turned it into one of the most acclaimed restaurants in the world.

The Sportsman uses the best ingredients available from the land and sea surrounding it – the salt marsh lamb comes from the farm next door, the sea beet and gutweed is picked on the shore outside, and salt is sourced from the sea itself.

The 50 recipes cover all The Sportsman classics, from mussel and bacon chowder to turbot with smoked roe sauce.

It’s a stunning debut from the former financial advisor.

CH E F !

WHAT TO MAKE AND HOW TO MAKE IT, DIRECT FROM OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

Sometimes it’s a good thing when things go pearshaped!

H I G H L I G H T S

TURKEY TIME

Winner, winner, Christmas dinner!

Page 22

MESSY CHRISTMAS

FEELING FRUITY

Mince pies meet Eton mess Page 24

A tempting tarte tatin Page 30

21

CRUMBSMAG.COM

P L U S

2

GORGEOUS GAME DISHES to tuck into!

C H E F !

BIRd IS The wORd NAIL YOUR CRIMBO DINNER CENTREPIECE WITH THIS RECIPE FROM GILLIAN KERTON

Gillian is the co-founder of Churchfields Saltworks of Churchfields Farm, a family run dairy farm in Worcestershire.

The farm is more commonly known for its award-winning ice cream and frequently visited café, but more recently the husband and wife team here, Gillian and Will, have decided to launch Droitwich Salt – a unique (and delicious tasting) gourmet salt. This stuff comes from naturally occurring brine springs beneath Droitwich, which the family have revived after almost a century. In fact, Droitwich Salt is believed to be the purest available, as it has never been subject to any form of pollution. This recipe also includes a very simple technique to add depth of flavour to your festive bird.

SALTED ROAST TURKEY WITH SHERRY GRAVY SERVES 8-12

INGREDIENTS For the salt 2 whole star anise 2 tsps peppercorns 1 tsp whole cloves 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 cinnamon stick, broken into 3 pieces 75g Pure Droitwich Salt 1 large orange, peel removed in long strips with a vegetable peeler and finely chopped (about 2 tbsps) For the turkey 1 turkey (approx 6800g/15lb) 5 large spring onions, chopped 1 whole large orange, coarsely chopped with peel 45g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 whole star anise 1 cinnamon stick, broken into 3 pieces 2 tbsps soy sauce 2 tbsps light molasses 112g unsalted butter, room temperature 480ml (or more) turkey stock Gravy 500ml turkey stock 75g all purpose flour 80ml dry sherry 1 tbsp soy sauce

METHOD 1 Coarsely grind the star anise, peppercorns, cloves, coriander seeds and fennel seeds, then transfer to a small bowl.

2 Grind the cinnamon stick and add to the bowl. Mix in the Droitwich Pure Salt and stir in the orange peel.

3 Place the turkey into a roasting bag and sprinkle the bird inside and out with the salt mix, then close the bag. Place it on a baking sheet, and refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours.

4 Preheat oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

5 Mix the spring onions, orange, ginger, star anise and cinnamon.

6 Remove the turkey from the bag and divide the chopped onion mixture between main and neck cavities. Place the turkey on the rack and set in a large roasting pan.

7 Spread butter all over the turkey and pour 480ml of turkey stock into the pan.

8 Roast the turkey according to the size of bird and instructions (around 15-20 minutes per pound), basting with the pan juices every 45 minutes, adding stock or water to the pan by the cupful, if dry. Tent the turkey loosely with foil if it’s browning too quickly.

9 During the last half hour of cooking, mix the soy sauce and molasses in a small bowl and brush on top of the turkey to glaze.

10 Once cooked, remove the turkey from the oven and leave to rest.

11 Pour the pan juices into a measuring jug. Spoon off the fat from the surface, reserving 120ml fat to one side.

12 Add enough turkey stock to the pan juices to measure 1.25l.

13 Place the roasting pan on a medium heat; add the reserved turkey fat and 75g flour. Whisk for around 2 minutes, until the roux is light brown. Whisk in the sherry, then the stock mixture. Bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits and whisking to blend.

14 Boil until the gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, about 8 mins.

15 Whisk in 1 tbsp of soy sauce and season well. droitwichsalt.com

22

CRUMBSMAG.COM

23

CRUMBSMAG.COM

C H E F !

MAKING A MESS! BEN BULLEN, HEAD CHEF AT SUDBURY HOUSE’S MAGNOLIA BRASSERIE, HAS SHARED A FESTIVE TAKE ON THIS FAVOURITE PUD

24

CRUMBSMAG.COM

Full of festive flavours, and wonderfully easy to prepare, Ben's festive recipe is sure to be a firm favourite this Yuletide. It’s full of Christmassy flavours, but is lighter than many winter puds you’ll find – ideal when you’ve overdone it on the turkey!

MINCE PIE ETON MESS SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS 4 mince pies For the meringue 80g egg whites 85g icing sugar For the cranberry purée 300g fresh cranberries, washed 100g caster sugar 100ml orange juice For the cream 500ml double cream 1 tbsp icing sugar 1 vanilla pod METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 100C/210F/ gas mark ½.

2 Begin by making the meringues. Sift the icing sugar, then whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.

3 Add the icing sugar to the egg whites a spoonful at a time, until all the sugar has been incorporated.

4 Spread two thirds of the mixture on to a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper.

5 Put the remaining mix into a piping bag, and pipe small dots on to the greaseproof paper. (Use a separate baking tray if you don’t have room on the other one.)

6 Put the meringues into the oven for 30 minutes, then remove and allow to cool.

7 Put the cranberries into a pan, add the caster sugar and orange juice and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5-10 minutes until the cranberries are soft and the mixture begins to thicken.

8 Blend the cranberries in a food processor, pass through a fine sieve then put in the fridge to cool.

9 Scrape the vanilla pods into the double cream, then add 1 tbsp of icing sugar and whip until it forms stiff peaks.

10 To assemble, crumble up the some of the mince pies and place at the bottom of the glass, break off some shards of meringue and fold through cream with a little of the purée. Spoon some cream in the glass and layer up with meringue, purée and crumbled mince pies.

11 Scorch some of the meringue dots with a blow torch and garnish on top with a dusting of icing sugar. sudburyhouse.co.uk

25

CRUMBSMAG.COM

VENISON BURGER WITH STILTON, SLOE GIN ONION MARMALADE AND WINTER SLAW SERVES 4

BURGER TIME

EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD BURGER, AND THIS VENISON VERSION BY LUCY JOHN IS A PARTICULARLY FINE EXAMPLE! Since my husband Charlie and I married, we have been running village pubs, says Lucy. Last year the opportunity arose to take over The Oak in Painswick, where I grew up. The pub sits in the heart of the beautiful Cotswold village, a stone’s throw from the famous church and 99 yew trees. We just couldn’t resist it! Retaining its charm, we gave The Oak a loving revamp.

I have always loved my mother’s traditional home cooking, and that is at the core of what we offer – and how I devise our menu.

This burger pays homage to winter country fayre, something we are blessed to have locally. In fact, on a frosty evening, whilst picking the sloes for the gin in this recipe, I saw two deer grazing – which made this combination seem ideal!

It’s important to source quality ground meat and a soft, sweet bun.

Venison mince is particularly lean, so the addition of pork mince helps to keep the burger juicy. The first bite of any burger should ooze delicious juices, and with mine this is followed by tart relish and salty cheese. theoakpainswick.co.uk

26

INGREDIENTS For the burger 300g venison mince 100g pork mince 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 4 thick slices of Stilton (to top the burgers) 4 burger buns lettuce, chopped (to garnish) tomato, sliced (to garnish) For the sloe gin onion marmalade 1 tbsp olive oil knob of butter 500g red onions, finely sliced 50g dark brown sugar 75ml sloe gin 30ml balsamic vinegar For the winter slaw ½ red cabbage, finely sliced ½ white cabbage, finely sliced 1 carrot, grated 1 green apple, grated handful of chopped flat leaf parsley 200ml crème fraiche 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp cider vinegar 1 tbsp honey METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

2 To make the marmalade, heat the oil and butter in a large pan, add the onions, and fry gently for 20mins.

3 Stir occasionally until caramelized, then add the sugar, gin and vinegar and simmer for a further 20 minutes, until sticky and reduced.

4 For the slaw, combine the red and white cabbage, carrot, apple and parsley in a large bowl.

5 Whisk together the crème fraiche, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, vinegar and honey, season and then stir through the veg mixture.

6 Make the burgers by combining the venison and pork mince and Worcestershire sauce in a bowl, taking care not to overwork the meat.

7 Shape into four patties.

8 Pan fry the burgers on one side until golden, then flip and place into the oven for 10-15 minutes. (Ensure it is cooked through, as it contains pork mince.)

9 At this point, pop a wedge of Stilton onto each burger and return to the oven for 2 minutes.

10 Toast the burger buns, garnish with lettuce and tomato, add the burger and a dollop of the sloe gin onions. Serve with a side of the coleslaw.

CRUMBSMAG.COM

C H E F !

27

CRUMBSMAG.COM

C H E F !

WILd ThINGS

ARE YOU GAME FOR THIS WILD WELLINGTON, AS MADE BY RICHARD CRAVEN? The Royal Oak in Whatcote has been a pub for more than 800 years. Its latest custodians are husband and wife Richard and Solanche Craven (previously at The Chef’s Dozen), who have set about putting their stamp onto the place with a refurb and a brand new menu. The dining room serves meals that focus sharply on seasonal British wild food. Richard, who grew up and started his career in nearby Chipping Campden, has sought to make use of his close relationships with local farms, producers and gamekeepers of the region, bringing the ethos of local and seasonal dining to a new level. Most produce is sourced within 10 miles of the restaurant, game on the menu is ‘shot to order’, and pigs and cattle are reared and aged to his specifications.

PHEASANT WELLINGTON SERVES 4 (2 WELLINGTONS)

INGREDIENTS 500g button mushrooms 175g venison/beef fat 500g flour 225ml water a brace of pheasant (or 4 pheasant breasts) 4-6 slices of Parma ham 1 egg (for eggwash) METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 175C/350F/gas mark 4.

2 Make a mushroom duxelles by finely dicing button mushrooms and cooking on a medium heat until the moisture is gone, using a very small amount of oil to baste the pan. Take off the heat and season.

(You could add a little tarragon now, if you wish).

3 Make the pastry by melting the venison/beef fat into 225ml water.

Add the hot liquid to the flour and mix. Pop the mixture into the fridge to set. (Alternatively, you could use ready-made puff pastry.)

4 Remove the breasts from the pheasants and top and tail them to ensure even portions.

28

5 Extend a cling film roll on a work surface, and place half the ham slices on top (overlap so there are no gaps).

6 Spread half the duxelles evenly over the ham.

7 Place two breasts onto the duxelles.

8 Using the cling film, roll the ham, duxelles and pheasant breasts into a tight ballotine/cylinder.

9 Repeat with the remaining ham, duxelles and pheasant, then put both ballotines into the fridge for an hour to set.

10 Roll out the pastry on a floured work surface and divide in half.

11 Take the ballotines out of the fridge and remove the cling film.

12 Roll each ballotine in pastry and use an eggwash to seal the edges and glaze the outside.

13 Put in the oven for 25 minutes until the pastry is cooked.

14 Once cooked, remove from the oven, cut off the edges and portion each Wellington in half.

15 Serve with mashed potato, seasonal greens and – ideally – a seasonal preserve. theroyaloakwhatcote.co.uk

CRUMBSMAG.COM

FESTIVE LUNCHES from £50.00 per person

Enjoy great dishes and delicious wines with colleagues and friends this festive season...

Monday – Friday £50 per person Saturday & Sunday £55 per person Includes; a festive cocktail on arrival, delicious three-course lunch, half a bottle of wine per person, coffee and mince pies, party novelties and complimentary room hire for parties of 10 or more.

FESTIVE DINNERS from £70.00 per person

Party at ours this festive season, the perfect place to celebrate another fantastic year!

Sunday – Thursday £70 per person Friday & Saturday £80 per person Includes; a festive cocktail on arrival, delicious fourcourse dinner, half a bottle of wine per person (selected by our Sommelier), coffee and macarons, party novelties and complimentary room hire for parties of 10 or more.

Why not make a night of it?

Sunday – Thursday from £149 (inclusive of breakfast) Friday & Saturday from £189 (inclusive of breakfast Room price based on one person occupying a room.

A £30 supplement applies for two people sharing a room.

Minimum of five bedrooms required.

Two night minimum stay may apply over weekends.

Rooms are subject to availability.

Available from Saturday 25th November to Saturday 23rd December 2017 Prices include VAT. A discretionary service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill.

Make an enquiry: Contact our events team on 01386 852255 or email events@lygonarmshotel.co.uk

The Lygon Arms, High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire, WR12 7DU

www.lygonarmshotel.co.uk

C H E F !

WhAT A TART!

THE DAYLESFORD TEAM HAVE SHARED THIS RECIPE FOR A SWEET AND STICKY PUD

30

CRUMBSMAG.COM

W

The trick with sugar is to eat it consciously, in small amounts, and to try – wherever possible – to avoid it when it is hidden in the likes of processed food, ready meals and fortified cereals, say the guys at Daylesford. Of course, a generously caramelised tarte tatin, encased in a cloud of buttery pastry, is quite obviously a sweet and indulgent treat.

But when harvest pears are heavy on the trees, and tart blackberries adorn the hedgerows, it is hard to resist preparing this traditional French dish with a little added honey and fresh rosemary.

We like to serve this pudding just warm and with a lightly spiced vanilla and kefir yoghurt.

PEAR AND BLACKBERRY TARTE TATIN SERVES 6-8 INGREDIENTS For the tart 5 pears, peeled, cut in half and cores removed 50g butter 50g runny honey 50g caster sugar 1 sprig rosemary 1 large cinnamon stick 100g blackberries 1 sheet of puff pastry For the spiced vanilla and kefir yoghurt 100g yoghurt 70g kefir ¼ tsp vanilla extract generous pinch cinnamon drizzle of honey 1 tbsp soy sauce

This recipe is taken from Daylesford’s e-book The Autumn Harvest.

Download it for free at daylesford.com/recipes

METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

2 Prepare the pears and set aside.

3 Put the butter, honey, sugar, rosemary and cinnamon stick into an oven proof pan (roughly 26cm/10” in diameter). Melt over a high heat until just beginning to bubble.

4 Place the pears into the pan and simmer gently for 5-6 minutes, turning every now and then and spooning over the caramel regularly as you go.

5 When the pears are just beginning to soften, remove the rosemary and cinnamon and arrange the pears very tightly and with the cut sides facing upwards.

6 Squash the blackberries a little and arrange evenly among the gaps.

7 Roll the puff pastry out so that it is roughly 3mm thick, and cut into a circle just larger than the pan. Place the pastry over the pan and, using a knife, tuck the edges neatly down the sides. Prick a hole in the top of the pastry and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

8 Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for a good 15 minutes before flipping onto a plate or board, ready to serve.

9 To make the spiced vanilla and kefir yoghurt, simply stir all of the ingredients together in a bowl until thoroughly combined before spooning generously over slices of the tarte tatin. daylesford.com

31

CRUMBSMAG.COM

New Seasonal Menu and Sunday Lunch now launched

Cotswold Grange Hotel, Cheltenham, GL52 2QH Telephone: 01242 515 119 www.cotswoldgrangehotel.com

Cutler & Bayliss

Traditional Family Butcher & Greengrocer Traditional quality meat Cotswold hand made sausages Delicatessen with home made pies and pasties Wide selection of fresh fruit and vegetables Range of jams, marmalades, chutneys and much more

4 Oak Street, Lechlade, Gloucestershire GL7 3AX

Tel: 01367 252451

www.cutlerandbayliss.co.uk

Choose your weapons

answer – an accurate internal temperature reading on the That looks like something stolen from a little LED display. (Er, as long as the internal temperature children’s hospital of the future – a jolly is between -49.9C and 299.9C, that is.) way to inject the darlings with the sleeping drafts needed to make Christmas bearable!

Sounds like quite a range!

Ah, full of seasonal spirit, I see! Though this It is: even the very hottest domestic oven never gets beyond thing – the latest addition to the well-established 260C. (The only ones that do are in pizza restaurants, where Thermapen range, an independent British success they often hit the 300C-450C range – but you don’t need a meat thermometer story – does, actually, have a role to play in making for pizza, obvs.)

Christmas less stressful than it otherwise might be.

The hero product of an outfit called, snappily, Electronic We’ve all seen food thermometers before, of course…

Temperature Instruments, it’ll easily take away the risk of Of course – and many of them were probably earlier Thermapens. (The last your turkey being undercooked in the middle. incarnation, Thermapen 3, was Britain’s bestselling food thermometer, after all.) And this new one is even better, the fastest and cleverest on the market.

It doesn’t look very Christmassy…

The display self-rotates through 360 degrees, for one thing, allowing you to I must confess, the bright lime you see here isn’t the most easily see it whatever position it’s in. The backlight automatically turns on if seasonal of colours – I’d prefer mine in the Santa-esque red it’s dark enough for you to need it, too, while the whole thing turns itself off or snow-referencing white they also do, amongst a ten colour when you put it down, saving the battery. Then it comes on again when range – but at least you’ll not lose this little thing in the thick of you pick it up. (Indeed, they say its single AAA battery will work for the inevitable detritus of Christmas dinner prep. All you need do is 3,000 hours in normal use.) It’s waterproof and washable, too. grab it, stick the folding prong in your turkey like Arya Stark wielding Needle, and in no more than three seconds you’ll have your It’s not cheap though, is it?

No, but it’s not super-expensive, either. And remember, this is no once-a-year item, but will work just as well with a humble weekday chicken – not to mention bread, cakes, fish and big ol’ lumps of meat – as it will the turkey. A Thermapen is not just for Christmas, it seems…

PeN PAL

THE NEW THERMAPEN ISN’T THE CHEAPEST MEAT THERMOMETER, SAYS MATT BIELBY, BUT IT’LL MORE THAN PAY FOR ITSELF AT CHRISTMAS. YOUR TURKEY WILL NEVER BE UNDERCOOKED AGAIN!

The SuperFast Thermapen 4 costs £64.80, but earlier versions that are significantly cheaper are still available too; get yours at thermapen.co.uk

THIS MONTH • THE ITALIAN JOB • FESTIVE FEASTING • SHINY HAPPY PEOPLE

33 CRUMBSMAG.COM

S U P P E R

C L U B

BUOn NataLe!

WHEN GIOVANNA DEL PERUGIA INVITED US TO SHARE A HOME-STYLE ITALIAN CHRISTMAS FEAST, THERE WAS NO CHANCE WE WERE GOING TO MISS OUT

WORDS: EMMA DANCE PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW CALLAGHAN

34

CRUMBSMAG.COM

S U P P E R

t

here’s a reason why, for centuries, Italian cuisine has enslaved tastebuds around the globe. Because it’s mighty fine, that’s why.

From the wonder of a perfect pizza and silky smooth pasta, to rich tomato sauces, hearty meat dishes, fresh fish and delectable cheeses, it’s got no end of culinary talents. Yep, Italy may not be huge, but it certainly knows how to pack a punch when it comes to flavour.

So given how good just regular every day Italian food is, the thought of what might happen at a major celebration – say, Christmas – was pretty darn exciting.

Giovanna del Perugia runs a small catering business, I Piatti di Giovanna, in Burford, taking the best from the Cotswolds and merging it with her Italian heritage. This evening, she’s decided to share her family’s culinary Christmas traditions with some friends, and she’s invited Team Crumbs to come along to join in the fun.

We’re all gathered in the really rather gorgeous Cats Abbey in Sherborne, and although C-Day is still a few weeks off, it’s been fully decked out in Yuletide fashion for the occasion, to ensure that everyone’s well and truly in the Christmas spirit.

Giovanna grew up in Florence in a classic Italian family that she describes as “still extremely, sometimes infuriatingly, fussy about the food they eat. They will only eat the very best ingredients, and those are usually grown on the family estate situated in the hills around Florence.”

In fact, the red wine made from San Giovese and Merlot grapes that we’re quaffing comes from her family’s estate and is, we can confirm, excellent.

“The Christmas dinner was the most extravagant meal,” says Giovanna. “It was packed with dishes that didn’t appear the rest of the year, either because they were too elaborate to be prepared, or the ingredients were too expensive to buy –

35

CRUMBSMAG.COM

C L U B

S U P P E R

C L U B

36

CRUMBSMAG.COM

like truffles or lobster. The dishes were, for the main part, from our culinary tradition, but every year there was a little twist – maybe something small, but something different and new. This could have been a new variation on a traditional dish, a different canapé, or a colourful cocktail.”

We start with antipasto Russian salad, which may not sound very Italian, but there’s at least one school of thought that gives it Italian roots. The story goes (and it’s the tale we’re sticking with!) that in Piedmont in the 19th century a chef at the Court of Savoy made the dish for the visiting Russian Tsar, using ingredients commonly grown in Russia, such as carrot and potatoes, and using cream, instead of mayonnaise, to represent the Russian snow. The tsar loved it, and took the recipe back to Russia with him. Giovanna’s family recipe includes the likes of carrots, potatoes, peas, gherkins and homemade mayonnaise, and is a very lovely thing indeed.

There’s a primo piatto (that wonderful Italian innovation of a course between the starter and the main) of Tortellini in Brodo. Giovanna tells us that, when her mother was a young girl, tortellini were only eaten at Christmas, so when they appeared in shops it prompted much excitement among the children, because it meant that Christmas was approaching. You know that phrase, ‘Feeling like all your Christmasses have come at once’? That’s how I feel as I tuck into the bowlful. The pasta is so soft and so silky, with a flavoursome filling of meat, spices and Parmesan. It’s swimming in a light broth (brodo) which packs far more of a punch than it looks like it should. It’s the very definition of comfort food.

It soon becomes apparent why the brodo is just so good. It’s made from the stock in which the beef that’s being dished up for secondo piatto has been cooked. The dish is called Lesso, which is, as Giovanna tells us, a cooking technique very typical of Tuscany, where she is from.

“Lesso is a classic Christmas dish that follows tortellini in brodo,” she says. “The beef is slowly cooked with chicken, vegetables, spices and herbs in water. Once the beef is tender, it’s removed from the liquid, carved and served.”

And oh, was that beef tender!

It practically melted in the mouth and, with a zingy salsa verde, sharp but sweep pickled peppers and creamy

37

CRUMBSMAG.COM

S U P P E R

C L U B

mashed potatoes, it made for a deeply satisfying plate of food.

What could follow that?

Well, it turned out that cheese – or formaggi, if we’re going to be all Italian – came next. But, in tribute to our Cotswolds location, the selection hailed not from Italy, but from the neighbouring village of Windrush – Windrush Farm, to be exact.

A smorgasbord of goat’s cheeses, it proved just how varied this ingredient can be, with the examples ranging from a young, mild morsel with a light delicate flavour, to a mature round with the trademark goaty tang.

Dolce comes, and Giovanna hits the sweet spot with a semifreddo al torrone. “It’s not a typical Italian Christmas dessert,” explains Giovanna. “But, as I said, in my family each Christmas party has a little twist and something different. This is my favourite dessert – an almost frozen creamy concoction which is given texture by almonds and dark chocolate.”

It only takes one spoonful to realise why Giovanna loves this dessert so much. Light as a cloud – which is a relief after the preceding feast – and not too sweet, with bitter notes from the chocolate and toasty warmth from the nuts, it’s an absolute delight.

We finish our feasting with ricciarelli, traditional Christmas almond biscuits originating in 14th century Siena and served with Vin Santo wine – a typical Tuscan wine made with Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes.

There’s unanimous agreement that Giovanna has done her family traditions proud. And, I’m pretty sure I’m not alone in thinking, with food like that, I really do wish it could be Christmas every day… ipiattidigiovanna.wordpress.com

38

CRUMBSMAG.COM

RICCIARELLI BISCUITS MAKES 20

INGREDIENTS 200g ground almonds 200g caster sugar zest of ½ orange, grated 2 egg whites 1 large sheet of rice paper (or several small sheets) icing sugar METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

2 In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground almonds, sugar and orange zest.

3 In a separate large bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Fold the egg white to the dry ingredients using a metal spoon.

4 Lay the rice paper on an oven tray and spoon the mixture on it, in 20 individual portions.

5 Transfer to the oven and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the biscuits start to turn golden brown. Remove the tray from the oven.

6 Leave the ricciarelli to cool completely on the tray.

Once cool, cut the rice paper to size around the biscuits and dust them with icing sugar.

K I T C H E N

A R M O U R Y

The Want List

ADD SOME SPARKLE AND SHINE TO YOUR KITCHEN WITH THESE METALLIC HUES…

1

2

2

3 4 5

1 J BY JASPER CONRAN COPPER JUICER, £15 A juicer is pretty much a kitchen essential, and we think this one is a particularly lovely example. So attractive is its warm copper glow, in fact, that we reckon you won’t want to hide it away in a kitchen cupboard!

Get yours from Debenhams in Cheltenham. debenhams.com 2 LIMBREY SALT AND PEPPER MILL SET IN BRIGHT, £78 We’re a little bit in love with this striking salt and pepper set from Robert Welch. The combination of polished stainless steel and walnut wood has a timeless elegance that will add a touch of class to any table.

You can buy them from Robert Welch in Chipping Campden. robertwelch.com 3 JUST SLATE GOLD SERVING BOWL, £29.99 We adore the contrast of the dramatic black exterior and glamorous gold insides, and as it’s hand-hammered it’s got a really tactile appeal, too. It’s available from Lakeland, but must be ordered online. lakeland.co.uk 4 WALTON & CO GOLD CIRCULAR BEADED PLACEMAT, £7.99 These gorgeous placemats are the ideal addition to any festive table.

Made from glass beads in a beautiful shade of antique gold, they’ll add a shimmer to your dinner! Nab one from Steamer Trading Cookshop in Cirencester. steamer.co.uk 5 CULINARY CONCEPTS CYLINDRICAL HIP FLASK, £39.95 This hip flask, designed in the style of a shotgun cartridge, is a sure-fire winner when it comes to staving off winter chills while you’re out on a bracing country walk. Pick one up from Cotswold Trading in Broadway. cotswoldtrading.com

39

CRUMBSMAG.COM

M AI N S TOP CULINARY CAUSES, FAB FOOD DESTINATIONS & PEOPLE THAT MATTER

Lebanese lusciousness hits the sweet spot!

O V E R

T H E

P A G E

2017’S BEST BITES

Foodie highlights from the last 12 months Page 42

CELEBRATIONS SORTED! The top tickets for New Year’s Eve Page 52

BEING MASTERFUL

Elly Wentworth talks MasterChef: The Pros Page 55 PLUS

GOING LEBANESE WITH TONY KITOUS

41

CRUMBSMAG.COM

SIMPLY TH E BEST! WE THINK YOU’LL AGREE THAT 2017 HAS BEEN A BIT OF A BLINDING YEAR IN THE COTSWOLDS, AT LEAST WHEN IT COMES TO FOODIE MATTERS. EXCITING NEW OPENINGS, SWANKY REFURBS, TALENTED NEW CHEFS, AWARDS GALORE – IT’S ALL BEEN GOING ON! SO, BEFORE WE LEAP ENTHUSIASTICALLY INTO THE NEW YEAR, WE THOUGHT WE’D TAKE A MOMENT AND ASK SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIE VENUES WHAT MADE THE LAST 12 MONTHS SPECIAL FOR THEM…

THE BELL AT RAMSBURY

thebellatramsbury.com “The whole team at The Bell was overjoyed at winning the coveted AA Best Pub in England Award for 2017/18 in September 2017. With 2,194 entrants from across the country, the AA inspectors selected pubs that stand out for being great all-rounders, with well-kept beers and ciders, excellent food, a convivial atmosphere and a warm welcome from the staff.

Not only does The Bell deliver on all these counts, but is also able to offer guests a selection of produce, award-winning spirits and beer distilled and brewed on the Ramsbury Estate.

“To receive this award is an amazing achievement, as there have been some truly fantastic winners in this category in the past.”

– Matt Saxton, general manager

COTSWOLD GRANGE, CHELTENHAM

cotswoldgrangehotel.co.uk “2017 saw Cotswold Grange moving ahead with many exciting improvements, from our fabulous new-look dining room, with funky Tom Dixon lighting and beautiful wall murals, to the recruitment of our new head chef, Tim Townsend, who is incredibly talented and passionate.

“Now, for winter, we’ve introduced a very enticing seasonal menu, with many delightfully tempting dishes, including our very own Cotswold Grange smoked salmon with wasabi yogurt and cucumber gel, and a pan roasted duck with the silkiest celeriac purée you could imagine!

We’re opening up to the local neighbourhood with a regular Sunday lunch offering from this month, too.

“But that’s not all! We’ve also just embarked on another exciting development – we’re landscaping the grounds to include a wonderful setting for al fresco dining (the great British weather permitting!) in an ‘outside room’ – a terrace with a stunning water feature, surrounded by pleached trees. We think we’re creating a unique dining destination.”

– Nirav Sheth, proprietor

THE DEVILLED EGG, ONLINE COOKERY SCHOOL

thedevilledegg.com “This year has been an incredible milestone for The Devilled Egg. We have spent most of 2017 redesigning and rebuilding our online cookery school – a subscription service, where our members can look up and learn all sorts of culinary techniques, recipes and trivia. One new feature now allows subscribers to contact me directly for troubleshooting advice – I’ve managed to keep up, so far!

“We also moved into a new studio, where all of our tutorials are now filmed. I am a chef, not a programmer or an engineer, so being surrounded by fancy new lights, cameras and web jargon isn’t exactly my comfort zone! At times it’s been challenging to stay focused on the food and the teaching, but I have quite enjoyed the adventure.

“Now we’re looking forward to the next stage in the company’s development, and the awesome things we have in store for our subscribers in 2018.”

– Barbora Ormerod, founder and head chef

42

CRUMBSMAG.COM

M A I N S

Aiming high at Mr Hanbury’s Mason Arms!

CRUMBSMAG.COM

P H OTO BY M AT T AU ST I N

43

M A I N S

GOLDEN CROSS INN, CIRENCESTER

thegoldencrossinn.com “We have undergone some changes at The Golden Cross Inn. Firstly, we welcomed back chef Toby Oliver Refoy. He was with us a few years ago, but went off to learn more about cuisine and diet. Now he has come back with a hat full of ideas. and is really cooking up a storm.

“We’ve also had a little refurb of our kitchen, adding in a service hatch and opening up the area a little. This is the start of some other plans, so watch this space!”

– Mark Lindesay, landlord

Jesse’s Bistro in Cirencester kept a firm hold on both of their AA Rosettes

There’s a new top dog in the kitchens at Loaded Grill

JESSE’S BISTRO, CIRENCESTER

jessesbistro.co.uk “2017 was a great year for Jesse’s Bistro – and it is not over yet!

We maintained our two prized AA Rosettes, as well as being entered into the Michelin Guide. Also in 2017 we hosted a special dinner for the Cirencester Town Council and City of Bathurst, New South Wales, Australia Friendship. We raised more than £1,000 for the initiative, and it was an evening enjoyed by all.

“Roll on 2018, when we hope to get more accolades for our amazing team.” – Vanessa Curnock, proprietor and manager

LOADED GRILL, CIRENCESTER

loadedgrill.co.uk “We opened our doors in February, so it has been a busy year.

It has been great to get involved with the local community supporting Cirencester events, such as the Phoenix Festival, Abbey 900 and, more recently, we hosted a night to raise money for Gloucester charity, Hollie Gazzard Trust.

“The end of the year has also been a highlight, as we’ve been joined by chef Ben Stockford, who is bringing new dishes to the restaurant in the form of weekly specials.”

– Foyez Rahman, owner

THE LYGON ARMS, BROADWAY

lygonarmshotel.co.uk “The Lygon Arms, in Broadway at the heart of the Cotswolds, unveiled the final chapter of its multi-million-pound refurbishment and expansion in September.

“The no-expense-spared transformation of this 16th-century coaching inn honours the building’s charm and heritage, and debuts an enriched guest experience, complete with 86 newly designed rooms and suites, a refreshed spa, and the late-summer launch of two new culinary experiences.

“The Lygon Bar and Grill concentrates on seasonality and product provenance, while representing the traditional brilliance of British food in a relaxed setting. The Mediterranean-inspired Lygon Wine Bar boasts a fine selection of European and international wines, complimented by light Italian dishes.

“The Lygon Spa, meanwhile, is close to the three-acre private garden, which is an oasis of calm and provides the opportunity for guests to relax and rejuvenate, with treatments spearheaded by results-driven British brand, OSKIA.” – Graeme Nesbitt, general manager

44

THE MOUSETRAP INN, BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER

themousetrapinn.co.uk “2017 was the year that I moved home to Gloucestershire from London, to run The Mousetrap Inn in Bourton-on-the-Water.

There has been a full refurbishment of the bar and bathroom areas – and losing the carpets, horse brasses and retro avocado suites has been brilliant!

“We also had a full cellar refit, and I’m extremely proud of my cellar and the real ales I keep here. Indeed, we make sure that we take full advantage of being a free house by offering a strong range of good local ales.

“I’ve got a great team to work with, making sure that everyone who comes in is given the same warm welcome, made to feel at home, and given a fond farewell. Getting to know the locals has been hugely rewarding, as I now live locally myself, and like to think that the pub and I are part of the local community. Since the refit we’ve used as many local suppliers as possible, which has had a fantastic reaction from locals and tourists alike. I guess there is a buzz about it all, and that makes this a great place to be.

“Working alongside the directors, Rob and Mike, has also been fantastic. Christmas and New Year are going to be wonderful. We are open on Christmas Day, and New Year’s Eve should be great fun, welcoming everyone in to join us as we look forward to 2018 – and an even busier Mousetrap!” – Frank Fellows, general manager

CRUMBSMAG.COM

Ian Percival’s now leading the kitchen team at The Old Stocks Inn

MR HANBURY’S MASON ARMS, SOUTH LEIGH

hanburysmasonarms.co.uk “Other than the obvious, that Mr Hanbury’s Mason Arms opened its doors in May 2017, the highlight of the year has to be making it into the Michelin Pub Guide as one of the Inspectors’ Choices.

Everyone in the team was so proud and, as we’ve only been open six months, it’s a great achievement.

“The first harvest of our vegetable garden has been amazing too. We’re growing the likes of sweet corn, cabbages, heritage carrots, yellow beans – and seeing them go onto the menu, alongside free range eggs from the chickens, has been inspirational for the whole team.” – Leon Smith, head chef

THE OLD STOCKS INN, STOW-ON-THE-WOLD

oldstocksinn.com “This year has seen us really cement our food offering, and put our restaurant on the map as somewhere delivering truly innovative British dishes, with flair.

“We appointed our head chef, Ian Percival, over the summer, and his passion for creating bold and exciting new menus – ones that harness the outstanding ingredients we’re so lucky to have on our doorstep here in the Cotswolds – has seen our foodie following grow enormously.

“We’re looking forward to building on this even further in 2018, as Ian and the team continue to create new offerings that combine British cuisine with inspired flavours and quirky touches. Stowon-the-Wold is fast becoming a foodie hotspot, and it’s been fantastic to play a key role in developing that reputation over the last 12 months.” – Charlotte Tuck, general manager

The Lygon Arms Bar and Grill is looking rather lush after the refurb

THISTLEDOWN FARM, NYMPSFIELD

thistledown.org.uk/café “2017 was our first full year of trading, and saw enormous growth at the café. This was a little bit overwhelming in the spring and early summer, though, as we simply couldn’t keep up with demand – we went from three staff to 40 in just three (hectic) months! My highlight this year was definitely the development of a new team in both kitchen and front of house, one that’s been able to not just deal with the demand, but massively improve service and food quality. There are now lots of new dishes on the menu, with an emphasis on local produce and our own foraged, pickled and preserved ingredients.

“We’ve also expanded the kitchen, so we’re cooking not just in the clay oven (a little tricky when trying to serve 120 Sunday lunches!), but also over charcoal with our new barbecue.

Continuing the wood-fired theme, we plan to set up an asado grill for 2018!” – Ryan Kelly, owner

WHATLEY MANOR, NEAR MALMESBURY

whatleymanor.com “It’s been a remarkable journey at Whatley this year. Of course we were thrilled when Niall Keating returned from the Michelin Guide Press Launch for the Michelin UK & Ireland Guide with a Michelin star for The Dining Room. For me, personally, being recognised as Hotelier of the Year 2017 is very special, and having one of your peers praise your work and achievements to date is quite extraordinary. Danny Pecorelli, managing director of Exclusive Hotels and Venues (and 2014 Hotelier of the Year), said, ‘Sue is one of the most professional hoteliers, and puts so much back into our industry in a quiet, selfless and unassuming way. Previously an unsung hero, it’s quite rightly her turn to shine’, which is such a huge compliment.

“We’ve just opened the newly refurbished Greys’ Brasserie and The Green Room for our guests to enjoy, which was definitely another highlight. There has been so much happening this year, and there will be more exciting happenings to come in 2018!”

– Sue Williams, general manager

45

CRUMBSMAG.COM

Food Fanatics Food Hall

Stocking a range of local, regional and international foods.

From every day necessities to that little indulgence.

Whilst you are browsing, why not stop for a sweet or savoury snack in our coffee shop and soak up the surroundings.

OPEN EVERY DAY 12 North Street, Winchcombe, Gloucestershire GL54 5LH

01242 604466

NORTH COTSWOLD CAMRA PUB OF THE YEAR, 2017 (RUNNER UP) Character Pub with stone walls and flagstone floors Casual Dining – Excellent food served all day Passionate about well kept ales Famous Inn located on the Fosse Way (A429) Celebrate with family and friends this Christmas 9 beautiful en-suite bedrooms and two holiday cottages

01285 720721 Fossebridge | Cheltenham | GL54 3JS reservations@innatfossebridge.co.uk

www.fossebridgeinn.co.uk

( adve rtising feature )

'TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS..... ....... and while the fire did roar, The Craft Drink Co. was preparing festive drinks galore!

W

e begin our festive culinary journey on Christmas Eve. After putting the excited children to bed – mince pies duly laid out on the mantlepiece for Santa – you treat yourself to a celebratory award-winning G&T with Chase Distillery’s GB Gin. Its wild botanical infusions of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, almond, cardamom, cloves and liquorice give a distinctively festive feature.

A proper mood setter!

The morning arrives, and the breakfast table is laid. Whilst the kids can be treated to a delicious freshly pressed and natural orange juice from Bradley’s Juices, you can treat yourselves to an excellent sparkling wine such as the Signature Cuvée from Sixteen Ridges Vineyard in Herefordshire. This vivacious sparkling white wine has a baked apple and honeysuckle character with an elegant long and clean finish. Treat yourself – it’s only Christmas day once a year, after all!

The day rolls on seamlessly from one meal to the next as only Christmas Day can. Far too much is eaten and drunk,

and there is still the small matter of the Christmas Pudding left to tackle.

Adding a touch of decadent class to the proceedings, you light the pudding with the aid of the delicious and contemporary Hogan’s Apple Brandy. Maturation in oak casks for three years gives a rich apple spirit with notes of vanilla, pepper and cinnamon, and perfectly complements the rich spiced flavours of the pudding.

If sweet puddings aren’t your thing, Once upon a Tree’s Blenheim Superb table cider serves as a gorgeous accompaniment to a cheese board laden with Stilton. The English equivalent of a French Sauternes dessert wine, and with spiced apple, orange, apricot and honey on the nose and palate, this luxurious libation will revolutionise all you ever thought about cider.

As a perfectly indulgent hip flask treat, a tot of sticky Sipsmiths Sloe Gin excellently complements a brisk Christmas day dog walk, burning off the worst of the lunchtime indulgences. Alternatively, why not add a glug of Sipsmiths Sloe Gin to a

warmed apple juice infused with mulling spices for a decadently warming cocktail.

A cinnamon stick, star anise, cloves and some cardamom pods do the trick perfectly!

The day is nearly over, and after lighting a fire to accompany the evening’s televisual entertainment, you can put your feet up with a silky-smooth Cotswolds Cream Liqueur from The Cotswolds Distillery over ice. With delicious toffee and vanilla notes, this works especially well even in your coffee for a cheeky evening pick-meup. A ‘merry’ Christmas to one and all!

The Craft Drink Co. is a speciality craft drinks distributor, supplying independent businesses with exceptional craft drinks sourced from makers across the Cotswolds and Central England region.

For more information, please visit: craftdrink.co.uk

TONY KITOUS EMMA DANCE CHATS TO TONY KITOUS, FOUNDER OF LEBANESE RESTAURANT CHAIN COMPTOIR LIBANAIS, ABOUT HIS LATEST OPENING IN OXFORD, HIS MISSION TO MAKE LEBANESE FOOD AS POPULAR AS ITALIAN, AND WHY OPENING A RESTAURANT IS LIKE AN ARABIC WEDDING…

48

CRUMBSMAG.COM

I

’m sitting with Tony Kitous inside the latest opening in his in Comptoir Libanais empire, at the brand new Westgate shopping centre in Oxford.

The centre – and therefore Comptoir – has only been open for two days, but it’s properly buzzing, and the restaurant is packed.

“I can’t believe it,” says Tony as he looks around, shaking his head in disbelief. “I’m on Cloud 9. This is unbelievable.”

He genuinely seems surprised and delighted that so many people have flocked to try his brand of Lebanese cuisine, and it’s very endearing. Still, he shouldn’t really be so shocked; this is, after all, the 21st branch he’s opened since the very first one on London’s Wigmore Street, back in 2008. Clearly, then, he’s doing something right.

“For me, it still feels like the first one,” he says. “It really does, so I wasn’t expecting this one to be received like this. There’s so much interest! If I’d realised Oxford would be like this, I’d have come earlier. It’s so vibrant!

“We had a very difficult week leading up to the opening,” he continues, conspiratorially. “I was panicking. I was worried that it wouldn’t feel warm and cosy in here. But the moment we opened, all the pain seemed worth it. What could be warmer and cosier than this?

“Every time I open a place I just hope for the best! I think it’s a bit like giving birth – you don’t know whether it will be a boy or a girl, or what the child will be like, or what it will become. That’s how I feel about my restaurants. They are all similar but, also, they are all different. They are the same family, but different personalities!”

As we talk, Tony pauses now and then to gesture to members of staff, indicating that a diner needs attention perhaps, or that a table needs clearing.

“I’m like an Arabic mother,” he says, a little sheepishly. “I can’t help it! When I’m here I

want to support the team. It’s like an Arabic wedding – before the event the whole family comes and gets everything ready, but then, once it’s over and the bride and groom are settled, they all go away and leave them to it.

Once everything is running smoothly here I will leave them in peace – I promise!”

Tony’s food journey began, like so many people’s, in the family kitchen. He grew up in Algeria, as one of seven children, and his mother would spend hour upon hour in the kitchen every day, cooking for her hungry brood. It was she who first helped Tony on his road to becoming a restaurateur.

“We used to live opposite a football pitch,” says Tony. “I would sell tickets to the fans, and then, when they ran out, I sold them lemonade and sandwiches that my mother would help me make. This stall on the pavement was where I learned that a place to eat is not just about the food – it’s about making people feel welcome. In fact, my mum’s had a huge influence on my life.

49

CRUMBSMAG.COM

M A I N S

It's all about the fresh flavours and vibrant colours at Comptoir Libanais

If I’m honest, I’m doing it all for her – and for my dad although, sadly, he is no longer with us. That’s what gives me the drive.

“I have a special relationship with parents – and I mean all parents, not just mine. I think that people need to put parents ahead of anything else, because parents make their lives about their children. I believe that I have my parents’ blessing with what I am doing, and I never take it for granted. This is a family business – my brothers are involved, and now my mum spends half her year in London and half in Algeria. And I look at my team as I my family. I genuinely care for them, and that love spreads to our guests – we have guests at Comptoir, not customers.

“I’m so proud to be able to sit here and see our team working and enjoying themselves and the guests feeling like they are being looked after. That warmth and hospitality is what our culture is all about.

“In fact, I’m so blessed to be able to do what I love and love what I do. Sitting here it doesn’t feel like work, it feels like a holiday.”

It was actually a ‘holiday’ that really led to the beginning of Comptoir Libanais. Aged 18, fuelled by a desire to see the world, Tony left Algeria to come to London with a friend, originally planning to stay for just a few weeks or so. It turned out to be a break that has lasted 26 years, and is showing no signs of ending.

“I never thought I was going to stay,” says Tony. “I came with £70 in my pocket, and that was all. We spent the first night in Victoria Station and then ended up living in a squat with other travellers. I loved it here, and I soon knew that I wanted to stay, which meant that I would have to do something, so I got some shifts in restaurants. I had a dream of opening my own restaurant, though, and a few years later that’s what I did.

“For me, Comptoir Libanais is much more than just a business. It’s about getting the message out to people about our food and

our culture and bringing people together. It’s a whole experience. I want someone to come here and spend £15 on a meal and feel like they have just been to the Middle East for a couple of hours.”

It’s certainly an immersive experience at Comptoir Libanais, with all the senses being stimulated, and as Tony gives me a tour he points out numerous details.

“Here, as you walk in, it’s like a souk,” he says, gesturing to the shelves laden with exotic ingredients like za’atar, rose syrup and jallab.

“It’s the kind of ingredients you see in the markets in Lebanon and Algeria, but people can buy it here and take it home with them.

“And look at this,” he says, as we reach the counter full of freshly made salads and sweet treats, which divides the dining area from the kitchen. “Look how fresh and colourful and vibrant it all is!”

We move on, and Tony gestures to the walls which are covered in fez hats and shelves with brightly coloured bags and shining Moroccanstyle teapots, which are also for sale, as well as pictures of various people that have been doctored to depict them wearing a fez.

50

CRUMBSMAG.COM

“Here is my mother,” he says gesturing at one picture, “And my little nephew. And here is Barack Obama, here the Queen, here David Beckham and Cilla Black, and here is Paddington! We’re all about fun and celebration and, as you can see, we have a humorous side too.”

I ask Tony if the design concept is his idea.

“I don’t think of it as a design, or as an idea,” he responds. “It’s just normal to me. It’s what we have at home. It’s what I grew up with.

“It’s the same with the food. It’s food that’s made for sharing. People think sharing food is a new fashion or exotic – it’s not! We’ve been doing it for hundreds of years. It’s got a lot of spices, our food, but it’s not spicy as such. Really, it’s just a lot of Mediterranean flavours and ingredients, and we have a huge variety of dishes – salads, stews, fish, meats…

One thing I love is that there’s lots of choice for vegetarians here, and for vegans too.

The only thing the various dishes have in common is that they always have to be fresh and they always have to be tasty.

“A lot of people think Middle Eastern food is all about kebabs, but actually we don’t have anything like that back home. All the kebab shops are here, not in the Middle East!

“I believe that Lebanese food is some of the most delicious in the world, and if I can just get it in front of people they will become addicted to it. It’s my dream to make Lebanese food the new Italian food; a food that people eat every day. When I look around and see this place so busy, with so many people from all walks of life and from all over the world in here, I feel like we are nearly there.”

As he sits and surveys his latest achievement, Tony can’t disguise his sheer joy and excitement.

“I really can’t believe that I am living my dream,” he says with a smile. “This is just beautiful to see. Honestly, I feel like a little kid waiting for his Christmas gift.” comptoirlibanais.com

In the Saxon town of Cricklade 38 High Street, Cricklade, SN6 6AY 01793 299079 www.thecrickladeclub.co.uk

GET THE PARTY STARTED! WHEN ALL THE CRIMBO FRIVOLITY IS DONE AND DUSTED, THERE’S NO NEED TO FEEL GLUM. SASHAY INTO 2018 IN STYLE AT ONE OF THESE TOP SHINDIGS…

THE MAYTIME INN

The Maytime in Asthall is hosting an evening full of New Year fun. The restaurant is open from 6pm until 9.30pm, serving the usual array of delish locally sourced dishes – make sure you book to ensure you get a table! At 10pm, there’s live music from John James Newman (you might recognise him from The Voice), and when midnight strikes there will be sparklers and fizz all round. Entry is free! themaytime.com

THE MANOR HOUSE HOTEL, MORETON-IN-MARSH

Welcome in 2018 as you mean to go on – with food, fizz and celebrations aplenty (topped off with a night in a sumptuous room). A New Year’s sojourn here is a food lover's dream, with packages including cream teas, cocktails, canapés, a six-course dinner and breakfast – and, of course, a night of dancing until the early hours to burn off all those calories! From £650 per room. cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/the-manor-house-hotel/

You could see in the New Year with this fine fella at The Maytime Inn…

52

CRUMBSMAG.COM

M A I N S

COTSWOLD HOUSE HOTEL AND SPA, CHIPPING CAMPDEN

Cotswold House is one of the most stylish hotels in the area, so it stands to reason its New Year celebrations will be equally elegant and sophisticated. Enjoy a Champagne and canapé reception, followed by a three-course gala buffet and dancing until 1am. Tickets cost £55pp. bespokehotels.com/cotswoldhouse

MR HANBURY’S MASON ARMS, SOUTH LEIGH

Head chef Leon Smith has created an extra special tasting menu to see in the New Year, with exciting dishes such as pine smoked red mullet with crab bisque, rabbit ballotine, heritage beetroot, garden apple and walnuts, and Valrhona chocolate fondant with salted caramel, as well as a welcome glass of Champagne to kick off the celebrations.

Dinner will be followed by music and cocktails in the cosy pub until late – and if you really want to make a night of it, you can book one of the comfy bedrooms upstairs for the night. Tickets cost £80pp. hanburysmasonarms.co.uk

THE CLOSE HOTEL, TETBURY

Cosy in for a two night break at The Close. With stylish, cosy bedrooms to relax in and a delicious four-course dinner, this is the perfect break for those looking for a leisurely, sophisticated New Year’s Eve. This sumptuous two-night stay includes tea and treats on arrival, breakfast served with fizz, and cocktails and canapés before a delicious fourcourse New Year’s Eve dinner and welcoming in 2018 with the chimes of Big Ben. From £790 for a two night break. cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/the-close-hotel/

Food, dancing and frivolity are all on the menu this New Year’s Eve!

THE POTTING SHED, CRUDWELL

There’s some serious partying going down at the Potting Shed this New Year’s Eve. There’s food, there’s drinks, there’s DJs, there’s even free transport home (within 10 miles) when the partying ends at 4am! Entry is free, but the food and drinks are on you! thepottingshedpub.com

NO 131, CHELTENHAM

There’s a pretty epic sounding menu on offer at No 131’s New Year’s Eve seven-course tasting menu shindig. We’re talking dishes like grilled Skye scallop with Gryuère and garlic butter and loin of fallow deer with cassis onion and cavolo nero – pretty lush, right? Then, when you’ve finished eating, you can dance the night away with DJs behind the decks until the early hours, and toast in the New Year with a free glass of fizz. Ace. Tickets for the dinner cost £90pp, or £15pp just for the after party. theluckyonion.com/property/no-131/

MAGNOLIA BRASSERIE AT SUDBURY HOUSE HOTEL, FARINGDON

Celebrate in delicious style at Sudbury House’s two rosette Magnolia Brasserie this new year. Ben Bullen (who recently appeared on MasterChef: The Professionals) has devised a yummy-sounding five course dinner with dishes including pan fried scallop with black pudding, apple and crackling, roasted loin of Wiltshire venison with juniper cabbage and port and blackberry sauce, and lemon tart, blueberry, verjus compote and lime curd ice cream. Then, when you’ve finished eating, take to the dance floor to dance the night away! Tickets cost £95pp, or stay overnight from £180, including the gala dinner, welcome drinks and breakfast. sudburyhouse.co.uk

WHATLEY MANOR, NEAR MALMESBURY

Hot foot it into New Year with live jazz and a gala dinner at Whatley Manor. The celebrations begin with a Champagne and canapé reception which is followed by a six-course gala dinner, then live jazz. Whatley’s super-talented young exec chef, Niall Keating, won a Michelin star this year, so you can be sure that the food will be pretty spesh! Tickets cost £185pp. whatleymanor.com

53

CRUMBSMAG.COM

COOKING SCHOOL | VENUE HIRE | TEAM BUILDING CHRISTMAS GIFT VOUCHERS NOW AVAILABLE. THE PERFECT PRESSIE FOR ANY BUDDING CHEFS! The Foodworks are so excited to be nominated for the Best Cookery School in the Cotswolds by the 2017 Cotswold Awards!

www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk

01242 870538 | Colesbourne Park, Nr. Cheltenham, GL53 9NP

Rising star Elly Wentworth and her mentor, Hywel Jones

ELLY weNTwORTh

WITH THE NEW SERIES OF MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS ON OUR SCREENS, EMMA DANCE CATCHES UP WITH LUCKNAM PARK’S ELLY WENTWORTH TO FIND OUT HOW LIFE’S BEEN TREATING HER SINCE SHE WOWED THE JUDGES ON LAST YEAR’S SHOW… CAST YOUR MIND BACK 12 months or so to last year’s series of MasterChef: The Professionals. Remember Elly Wentworth? If you don’t, you should. The then 24-year-old blew the judges out of the water in her very first round, getting a 10 out of 10 from the notoriously hard-to-please Marcus Wareing, and continued to impress for challenge after challenge, making it all the way through to the final. Sadly, she didn’t win (that accolade went to the 45-year-old Gary Maclean from Glasgow), but there’s little doubt that the show has boosted the talented young chef’s trajectory to stardom.

55

CRUMBSMAG.COM

Lucknam Park – where Elly Wentworth cooks her socks off!

“I can’t believe it was a year ago that it was on TV,” says Elly, as we sit in the done if it wasn’t for the show. This winter I’m going to magnificent surroundings of Lucknam Park, where she still works, having risen London to do a MasterChef pop-up, for instance, which will through the ranks to the position of sous chef. “It feels as if it was yesterday! be really fun.

Everything happened really quickly – it was only a few weeks after I applied that “But it’s being at Lucknam Park that’s been the biggest I was in the kitchen doing my skills test. thing for me. Working for Hywel is amazing. If you ask any “I’d practised so many things beforehand, so I’d be prepared. I was spending chef why they come to work here, it’s because of Hywel. He’s my days off with butchers and so on, and really trying to up my game so I’d know the best chef in the country to work for. He’s an incredibly what to do, whatever they threw at me. Then they asked me to make a raspberry talented man, his food is incredible, and he’s so supportive. tart. I don’t work on pastry very much, but actually a tart is a pretty basic skill – if He’s looked after me really well, and encouraged me to do you’re a qualified chef, you should know how to do things like make a tart or everything – and never said ‘no.’ turn an artichoke.”

“I was out of the kitchen for the best part of three months It probably helped that Elly’s got no shortage of competition experience, doing MasterChef, and he not only allowed me to do that, but though. She’s twice been named South West Young Professional Chef of actually encouraged me. Hywel wants everyone to learn and do the Year, also scooping the overall title the second time around. She was well and, if he sees a sparkle in you, you’re going to fly. He’s not even taking part in the prestigious Royal Academy of Culinary Arts awards just a boss, he’s almost like a father figure to me. while she was competing on MasterChef (and went on to be one of only “It’s incredible to work somewhere where the staff turnover is four chefs to be given an Award of Excellence). She definitely doesn’t almost none,” she continues. “No-one walks in here and walks back believe in making life easy for herself. out again; everyone does their time. When people do leave, they do But, despite her preparation and competition experience, Elly wasn’t exceptionally well: Hrishikesh Desai at the Giplin Hotel, Richard immune to the nerves. “I was so nervous!” she admits. “The first time Edwards was at Lords of the Manor, Mark Stinchcombe at Eckington you walk in that kitchen it’s really nerve-racking; you’re expecting the Manor, Robert Potter at The Manor House – they’ve all gone on to get unexpected. But then every stage you get to, it’s the same feeling really Michelin stars, and I think that’s got a lot to do with Hywel.

– it doesn’t get any better!

“Hywel cares about absolutely everything that we do here at “I’d watched the show for years and, like everyone, I’d look at the Lucknam Park – front of house, the Brasserie, the lot, not just the fine chefs messing up their tests and think, ‘What are you doing?’ But then dining restaurant. It’s nice to work somewhere where you feel that you I was there, and you’re under so much pressure. I could have gone in are part of a huge team. To come here every day is really special.” there and burned something. Of course, you don’t want to look like a So, what’s next for the young culinary star? fool – but when it’s a TV show like MasterChef it’s not just about you, “It’s something I’ve talked about with Hywel,” she says. “When I either. It reflects on where you’re working as well. I didn’t want to started here I was a chef de partie, and now I’m a sous chef, but there’s let anyone down.” not much further I can go here.

Elly clearly didn’t need to worry, though. She bossed round after “I’ve always dreamed of doing the Roux Scholarship, so I’m planning on round, barely putting a foot wrong and winning the admiration of entering that in January and we’ll see how that goes. It’s not really about not only the watching public, but the judges – especially Monica positions and menus for me, though. It’s more about getting my CV to Galetti. I suggest to Elly that, from the outside at least, it seemed where I want it to be. as if Monica had a bit of a soft spot for her.

“I’d like to be a head chef next, but I have got ages to find exactly what I “Yeah, she did like me, I think,” says Elly. “She’s a really want. One day I’d like my own country pub that does really, really good food, lovely lady, and we’re still in contact. She has definitely been an and win my own accolades, but that’s a little way down the line. I definitely inspiration to me, and it’s amazing to see how far she’s come want to stay in the South West – I love it here. There are so many great and what she’s achieved. As a female in a very male-dominated ingredients, and brilliant restaurants and amazing chefs. But, for now, I don’t industry, it’s great to have people like her to look up to.” know exacly what’s round the corner.”

But much as Elly might admire Monica, as she talks there’s And, as we head towards the finals of this year’s MasterChef: The Professionals, little doubt that it’s Lucknam’s executive chef, Hywel Jones, does she have any advice for the contestants? who has been the biggest influence on her career to date.

“Just keep calm and cook to the best of your ability,” she says. “It’s harder than “Of course, MasterChef has had an absolutely massive you think, but if you really enjoy cooking, it’s worth it. Just ignore everyone impact too,” she says. “I’ve done a lot of pop-ups and food around you, and focus on what you’re doing. After all, the only person who can festivals and things like that, which I simply wouldn’t have knock you off your stride is you.” lucknampark.co.uk

56

CRUMBSMAG.COM

M A I N S

Elly Wentworth isn’t the only Cotswolds chef to have taken part in MasterChef: The Professionals.

Two more success stories share their experiences, and say how appearing on the show affected their careers…

MARK STINCHCOMBE

Eckington Manor (Winner, 2015) “I had such an amazing time on the show, from the judges’ feedback and the tasks set to the friends I met. And being on the show helped showcase the food Sue, my wife, and I are cooking at Eckington Manor. I never thought I would win, so just getting to cook with such talented chefs – and cooking for my idols – was enough. MasterChef helped put Eckington Manor on the culinary map, and brought amazing people to try our food.” eckingtonmanor.co.uk

NICK BENNETT

Restaurant 56 at Sudbury House Hotel (Finalist, 2015) “Getting to the final of MasterChef: The Professionals had a massive impact on my career. People came from all over the country to try our food at Restaurant 56. It was very humbling having so many people say they really enjoyed watching me, and wanted me to win! I'm still being recognised occasionally, and take plenty of selfies at food festivals, where I give demos with executive chef Andrew Scott.” restaurant56.co.uk

57

CRUMBSMAG.COM

A F T E RS

NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

H I G H L I G H T S

SHEDUCATION The Potting Shed’s a pub to love!

Page 60

CLOSE UP Cosying up at The Close Page 62

GIVE A FIG

Fine dining in stylish surroundings Page 64 I N C L U D I N G

ROARING FIRES

59

CRUMBSMAG.COM

to banish winter chills

( P E R F E C T P U B S )

THE POTTING SHED EMMA DANCE VISITS THE PUB THAT’S REALLY PUTTING CRUDWELL ON THE FOODIE MAP

I

’ll level with you. Until a few weeks ago I’d never heard of Crudwell. And, on the face of it, why should I? It’s a small, rather lovely village just outside Malmesbury (which in itself is hardly a buzzing metropolis), but – in a part of the world that’s awash with picturesque villages – there never seemed much reason to take the detour. Except there is a reason. And that reason is The Potting Shed pub.

I’m out for a lunchtime jaunt with the ’rents, and it’s the kind of place they love.

There’s proper ales (for dad) and mum’s smitten by the olde worlde charm of the wooden beams and flagstone floors. And that’s before we even get to the food.

The menu is stuffed full of things that you want to eat, which makes deciding more difficult than it rightly should be.

I tuck into a twice-baked smoked haddock and Cheddar soufflé, which is

60

CRUMBSMAG.COM

A F T E R S

pleasingly heavy on flavour, full of that more-ish saltiness and tang that you get from the fish/cheese combo, but with a light and fluffy, cloud-like texture.

Elsewhere Mr D is noshing happily on a plate of king prawns with chorizo and cherry tomatoes on sourdough, which are plump and pink with just a whisper of chilli heat, and Mrs is very taken with her Cerney goat’s cheese with heritage beetroot, walnuts and rocket, and cannot stop singing the praises of the soft, delicate cheese.

As it’s game season, I can’t resist the special of partridge. The meat is soft and well-seasoned and comes perched atop a rich and hearty barley and red wine risottotype arrangement. It’s not a dish that’ll win any prizes in a beauty contest, but then it’s food, not a painting – and it tastes great.

A fillet of pork with chestnut mushrooms, roast cauliflower and black pudding is

perhaps a little more pleasing to the eye, but most certainly not at the expense of taste. There are some bold flavours on the plate, but they’re managed skilfully, working in harmony to complement the succulent pork. Mrs D has gone for that old pub classic, fish and chips – and it’s an impressive plateful indeed, laden with golden crispy things. The chips are fluffy, the fish moist and there’s a good crunch to the batter. She says there’s a little too much of the latter, but it could be argued that that’s impossible.

A raspberry crème brulée to finish does exactly what it says on the tin. There’s a dark, crunchy top, which breaks with a satisfying crack to reveal a soft, not-toosweet custard embracing tart raspberries, and alongside is a just-crumbly-enough bit of shortbread. Dad’s gone light (as if!) and ordered a spotted dick drenched in custard

61

CRUMBSMAG.COM

for pud, which he claims is nowhere near as heavy as it looks – and, judging by the gusto with which it was devoured, I can only assume he was telling the truth. Mother, meanwhile, has affogato with hazelnut macaroon. The macaroon is clearly the star of the show, with a crisp shell, the softest, chewiest interior, and a warm toasty flavour from the nuts.

The food at The Potting Shed might be a bit pricier than your average pub grub, but it feels justified because it’s much better than your average pub grub. It’s not overly fancy, it’s just good honest food, made with good honest ingredients, packed with flavour and thoughtfully prepared. Which, in my mind, is enough to put The Potting Shed firmly on the map.

The Potting Shed, The Street, Crudwell SN16 9EW; thepottingshedpub.com

( C O S Y C O T S W O L D S I N N S )

THE CLOSE HOTEL EMMA DANCE GETS THAT WARM FUZZY FEELING AT TETBURY’S THE CLOSE HOTEL

62

CRUMBSMAG.COM

T

here’s just something about a proper roaring fire, isn’t there? Even in summer, when it’s entirely unnecessary, those flames are somehow a comforting presence.

It was absolutely not summer, though, when we rocked up to the Close Hotel in the centre of Tetbury. It was, however, lashing with rain, making the crackling logs even more of a welcome sight as we stepped inside.

Fires aside, there’s something just generally very warm and welcoming about The Close. It’s part of the Cotswold Inns and Hotels group, which is owned

by Michael and Pamela Horton, and it’s filled with Pamela’s trademark interior design touches, with flashes of feature wallpaper here and there, gorgeous lights and lamps around the place, and plenty of eye catching artwork. Basically, it’s how you wish you could make your house look if you just had the artistic flair to do it.

The menu in the hotel’s Garden Room restaurant is a bit like that too, in the way that it’s the sort of food you’d like to eat at home if only you a) had that sort of cooking ability, and b) you could be

A F T E R S

bothered to make it after a long day at work. It’s not super-cheffy, but the menu is full of yummy-sounding, comfort food type dishes. Just what’s wanted on a miserable, rainy evening.

A starter of Bath chaps is one of the more elegant versions of the dish I’ve eaten, the cube of chap delivering crispy, slightly salty skin atop a sliver of melting fat and soft, sweet meat. There’s celeriac remoulade to add crunch, smears of silky purée and some welcome apple chutney delivering sharpness to cut through the richness of the meat. Across the table, meanwhile, there’s a rather lighter dish of sloe gin and blackberry cured salmon. The flavours are delicate and the fruit in the curing adds a slight sweetness, which matches the fish.

A pan-roasted duck breast is cooked well – blushing pink with well rendered fat and crispy skin – but it’s the confit leg croquettes sharing the plate which are the real star of the show. Crunchy on the outside, and almost impossibly soft in the centre, they are more-ish and comforting. Sit me by a fire with a bowlful of these and a large glass of red and I’d be a very happy girl indeed.

There’s certainly no scrimping when it comes to portion sizes at The Close.

Cumin and coriander spiced roast monkfish comes as three whopping great tranches.

It’s cooked to perfection, the fish firm but still moist, with plenty of warming flavour from the coating – but not so much as to overpower the flavour of the fish itself.

There’s lots of lovely looking pud options, but in the end I’m sold on pear and almond tart with honeycomb ice cream. The pastry casing is wonderful – with just the right amount of brittle flakiness. The filling is definitely more almond than pear. It’s good anyway, but a bit more juicy fruitiness would have lifted it a little. The ice cream is delicious, studded with chewy honeycomb morsels, but if I could have swapped it for custard then I would have been sorely tempted to do so.

Husband has chosen the passionfruit parfait with coconut cream and pineapple tuile, and the sunny, tropical flavours deliver a hit of summer, despite the weather going on outside.

As we relaxed in the bar for a post-meal coffee, we agreed that, really, the only downside to the evening was that we hadn’t got a room for the night, and we were going to have to leave the comfortable cocoon, with its roaring fire, and brave the torrential rain on the drive home.

We’ll know better for next time.

The Close Hotel, Long Street, Tetbury GL8 8AQ; cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/the-close-hotel

63

CRUMBSMAG.COM

I ( H E A V E N LY H O T E L S )

FIG AT COTSWOLD HOUSE HOTEL EMMA DANCE FINDS CONTEMPORARY COOL IN THE HISTORIC MARKET TOWN

64

CRUMBSMAG.COM

t’s the period charm of Chipping Campden that draws most of the visitors. The higgledy-piggledy terraced high street, with its hotchpotch of architectural styles and 400-year-old Market Hall, has an enduring allure. Apart from being eminently Instagrammable, there are all the lovely little independent shops to peruse – there’s the butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker (okay, I’m not actually sure about the last one, but I wouldn’t be surprised), and among them, Cotswold House Hotel, a gorgeous Georgian gem that relaunched a little more than 12 months ago after a £1million refurb. As well as the elegant bedrooms and award-winning spa, there’s also Fig, a fine dining restaurant – and it’s this that we’re here to check out.

We decide to go for the tasting menu, because a) we’re greedy, and b) it means we get to try even more of the delish-sounding dishes on offer. Not that the descriptions give a lot away – they’re more of a list of ingredients than anything – but I kind of like that slight element of surprise.

The crab, yuzu, cucumber and avocado which begins proceedings is almost a work of art, with the soft, white crab

A F T E R S

meat studded with avocado and topped by the thinnest of wafers, with ribbons of cucumber weaving through, and adorned with edible flowers, coriander and droplets of yuzu gel. It’s a tried and tested flavour combo and it’s very good. For me, a touch more seasoning in the crab, just to lift the flavour a little, would have transitioned it into the realms of great, but nonetheless it’s still very enjoyable.

Sweet and smoky flavours play together beautifully in a dish of black fig, fondant cauliflower, turmeric and smoked almond.

It looks dramatic, but the flavours are subtle, and there’s clearly a lot of skill being shown in the execution.

A couple of veal sweetbreads come next – an added bonus, as they’re not on the menu.

Clearly, they’ve been shunned by some, since as they’re delivered we’re told, “You don’t have to eat them if you don’t want to.”

But oh, we do want to – and how right we were, and how wrong were those others.

The texture is soft and silky, the flavour rich and almost creamy – there’s nothing not to like about these little morsels.

The turbot dish that follows is brilliantly conceived and executed. The fish is soft and moist, falling into translucent flakes at the merest touch of the fork. There are some clams too, sweet with the flavours of the sea, enhanced by peas and broad beans which add freshness both in terms of flavour and appearance, and little baubles of fregola for some texture. In contrast, beef with Swiss chard, caramelised shallots

and balsamic reduction is a rich and hearty smack around the chops. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s beautiful.

A creamy panna cotta with strawberries – and just the right amount of wobble – is pre-dessert, that glorious warm up for the finale. This comes as white chocolate mousse, orange and burnt tuile.

The mousse is cloud-like, the sweetness tempered by the slight bitterness from the orange and a dark chocolate crumb.

It’s good, but the mousse is so light that somehow if doesn’t quite seem to hold the dish together, and it feels as if it’s lacking a

65

CRUMBSMAG.COM

centrepiece. I like it, but it finishes the meal on a whisper instead of the fanfare that it probably deserves.

A few minor niggles aside, there’s no arguing that there’s some seriously skilful cooking going on in the kitchens at Fig. And while the town might be known for its historic qualities, the dishes here are cool and contemporary and, I think, a reason to visit in themselves.

Cotswold House Hotel, Upper High Street, The Square, Chipping Campden GL55 6AN; bespokehotels.com/cotswoldhouse

L I T T L E

B L A C K

B O O K

dARREN STEPhENS

DARREN IS HEAD CHEF AT THE RECTORY HOTEL IN CRUDWELL. WHEN HE’S NOT COOKING UP A STORM, HERE’S WHERE HE LIKES TO CHILL… BREAKFAST? I love Jolly Nice Farm Shop and Cafe. It’s a family run farm shop in Stroud, championing sustainable British farming – and the breakfasts are fabulous!

BEST BREW? It has to be the first mug of Yorkshire tea I have when I get into the kitchen – most often served up by our ever smiling receptionist, Suzanne. It can be quite a stressful drive from my home in Bath to Crudwell, but that cuppa is something that I look forward to as soon as I see the sign for the village!

FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? It’s not exactly local, but I just love Harrods in London. This is obviously more than just a grocery shop, but its food hall has absolutely everything – and the very best of it too. It’s always inspiring, as a chef, to walk around whenever I happen to be in London, and it’s where Nigella does her weekly shop! Say no more.

BEST WINE MERCHANT? Easy – Liberty Wines, our award-winning wine supplier.

The team there shares our ethos of sourcing the best wines from exceptional producers from around the world.

SUNDAY LUNCH? The Hare and Hounds in Bath. It’s incredibly popular, and with an exceptional view over Bath. The fine food, great atmosphere and special view is what makes this my favourite place to spend a Sunday afternoon.

CHEEKY COCKTAIL? Crazy Eights at No 131 is one of my favourite watering holes and, I think, Cheltenham’s coolest bar. It’s set in a Grade II listed building, and feels like it’s a little slice of London. There’s a great vibe and a great espresso martini – just bring your credit card!

CHILD FRIENDLY? Perhaps surprisingly, the relaxing and peaceful Calcot Manor is fully geared up for the little ones. With a crèche and a playroom filled with PlayStations and X-boxes to keep the little scamps busy for hours, peace is kept throughout the rest of the hotel.

HIDDEN GEM? I have to say The Rectory Hotel, don’t I? We’ve only been open four months, having undergone a stunning refurb. We are still hard to find (especially in the dark winter months!), as the entrance is only marked with a simple logo.

ONE TO WATCH? Bulrush, Bristol. This place showcases inventive cooking using ingredients you wouldn’t always put together. Cep ice cream with burnt white chocolate is a dessert I won’t forget for the right reasons. It has had some good press recently, but I’m sure this place will catch a lot more attention in 2018.

COMFORT FOOD? The Potting Shed at Crudwell is our sister restaurant across the road, and it offers all the right dishes to make the world feel like a better place.

WITH THE FAMILY? My dad has built his own bar and barbecue in his back garden, and nothing beats hanging out there in the summer cooking up marinated chicken wings with the siblings.

BEST ATMOSPHERE? There’s nothing I love more than relaxing in a proper village pub, thinking about new dishes to work on for the restaurant. And The Ebrington Arms fits that role perfectly! It’s got cosy armchairs, great ales and an open fire, and the staff are totally on point. They even have rooms, so you don’t need to leave! therectoryhotel.com

QUICK! ADD THIS LITTLE LOT TO YOUR CONTACTS BOOK… Jolly Nice Farm Shop and Café, The Old White Horse Filling Station, Cirencester Road, Frampton Mansell, Stroud GL6 8HZ; jollynicefarmshop.com • Harrods, London; harrods.com • Liberty Wines; libertywines.co.uk • Hare and Hounds, Lansdown Road, Bath BA1 5TJ; hareandhoundsbath.com • Crazy Eights, 131 The Promenade, Cheltenham GL50 1NW; theluckyonion.com • Calcot Manor, Tetbury GL8 8YJ; calcot.co • The Rectory Hotel, Crudwell SN16 9EP; therectoryhotel.com • Bulrush, 21 Cotham Road, Bristol BS6 5TZ; bulrushrestaurant.co.uk • The Potting Shed, The Street, Crudwell SN16 9EW; thepottingshedpub.com • The Ebrington Arms, Ebrington, Chipping Campden GL55 6NH; theebringtonarms.co.uk

66

CRUMBSMAG.COM