DAL FESTIVAL Peas please us

Since its launch in 2018, Bristol’s Dal Festival hasn’t merely grown in size: it’s gone nationwide. Let Nick Saltmarsh, the Dal Fest chair, give you the dalicious lowdown. Say peas… I n the spring of 2018, we received a press release announcing the inaugural outing for the British Dal Festival. Not the ‘Bristol’ Dal Festival, mind, but the ‘British’ one, even though it was launched right here in the city. And it wasn’t just some little fly-by-night weekend affair, either, but a full week-long event. We covered it in the magazine, we made the obligatory pun about taking the pulse; but deep down, we were sceptical. Was there really that much fun to be had from puréed peas, beans and lentils? Once again, we were wrong. With numerous chefs and restaurants enthusiastically jumping on board, the first festival proved a major hit with Bristol foodies, and after an equally successful 2019, the festival is returning for third helpings for 2020 – and now it’s accrued a nationwide following, as Nick Saltmarsh explains. So Nick; how has the festival changed since it launched in 2018? In its first year, the British Dal Festival was entirely focused on Bristol, but it’s since grown to span the country. 2019 saw events celebrating dal from Lewes to Norwich, with dal being served from Whitstable to Leeds. In 2020 we’re expecting the nationwide Dal Trail to be bigger than ever, but always with plenty of new and favourite Bristol restaurants on board. Which would those new Bristol venues be, then? We’re excited to have Bocabar’s new Finzels Reach restaurant on the Trail; other Bristol newcomers include Café Matariki in Redcliffe and Chai Shai Kitchen on Jacob’s Wells Road. But surely dal’s just a bowl of mushy lentils, isn’t it? *ducks* No! There are hundreds of varieties of lentils, beans and other pulses, and thousands of traditional dal recipes from across the Indian subcontinent, from simple but sustaining everyday dishes to extravagant dals for feasting on special occasions. Not only that, but almost every global culture has its own traditional pulse crops, and equivalent dishes to dal, from Mexican refried beans and Greek fava dips to British mushy peas. Cerys Matthews has said that pulses are ‘one of our best weapons against climate change’ – explainy? Pulses are so valuable in combating climate change and increasing biodiversity that the United Nations designated 2016 as the International Year of Pulses, and 10 February every year is now World Pulses Day.

Introducing pulses into farm crop rotations brings many environmental benefits. As leguminous plants, all pulses fix atmospheric nitrogen, reducing the need for energy-intensive artificial fertilisers. They increase microbial activity in soils, increasing biodiversity and building resilience to soil stress. Pulses also require less water than other crops, and many varieties are drought-tolerant.

What’s the best dal you have ever eaten? Almost every dal is magnificent, and the best dal is the dal I’ve eaten most recently. Right now, my best dal was last night’s supper, made with split yellow peas, aubergine, tomato, fenugreek, coriander and coconut milk.

If people could take just one thing from the festival, what would you like it to be? Realising the enormous variety of delicious ways to cook, eat and enjoy pulses. They’re among the healthiest foods, with great benefit to be had if they’re eaten on a daily basis.

How do we get involved? Anyone anywhere can get involved by cooking up one of the dozens of recipes on the British Dal Festival website. Or find a restaurant on the Dal Trail and go out and enjoy the chef ’s speciality dal…

Find out more at www.britishdalfestival.com

DAL AFTER DARK On 27 March, St Nick's Night Market is holding a one-off Dal special edition with dal-based street food, cookery demonstrations from the likes of Jenny Chandler and Kalpna Woolf, Bollywood dance classes, street games and rangoli painting – all in celebration of the magic of dal. Find the event on Facebook.

JHAMPOLL GUTIERREZ GOMEZ THE COLOMBIAN CO 07534 391 992 www.thecolombiancompany.com

What sets you apart from other businesses like yours? We buy our coffee directly from small farmers back in Colombia which enables us to have regular contact with the farmer, their families and the people who work for them. What do you find most rewarding about your role? Every customer enjoying their coffee. We take pride in every cup of coffee we serve. What is your ideal cup of coffee? Lukewarm flat white. What does your industry mean to you? I can proudly show the British population the amazing coffee that small Colombian farms have to offer!! What first attracted you to the industry? I grew up surrounded by coffee farms, watching the plants growing, the cherries being picked and carried…. And enjoying a good cup of coffee of course! What is your specialty? Perfectly balanced flat white but, if you like mochas, my Colombian chocolate mocha is not to be missed either. What do you love about Bristol? I love Bristol’s independent scenery. We all must do our best to make sure it is not lost. What is the one piece of kit that you can’t do without? A good tamper! It doesn’t matter how good your machine or grinder is, if you haven’t got a good tamper you won’t be able to make a good espresso. When did you train as a barista? I have been working in the coffee industry for over ten years now. I also qualified as a coffee roaster in 2017 back in Colombia.

78 I BRISTOL LIFE I www.mediaclash.co.uk Jhampoll Gutierrez Gomez

MATILDA SOLOMON-BRADY TINCAN COFFEE CO 0117 963 3979; www.tincancoffee.co.uk

What sets you apart from other businesses like yours? We are warm & welcoming, friendly & ethical. We get to know a lot of our customers too, as both our coffee shops are in residential areas. What do you find most rewarding about your role? Making peoples’ day is easy to do when you’re behind a counter. Simply asking a customer what they’re up to today – it lights up their face and that is definitely the most rewarding! What is your ideal cup of coffee? If I’m making my own – an extra dry cappuccino with a double shot, & chocolate and cinnamon sprinkles. But if I’m ordering it I’ll just ask for a cappuccino. What first attracted you to the industry? If I’m being honest, I became a barista because it was cool! I didn’t know then how much there was to learn & how much skill is involved. I’m happy I thought it was cool, otherwise I never would have learned all the intricacies & the science of coffee, which I now find fascinating. What is your specialty? A tulip (latte art) in a flat white. What do you love about Bristol? Absolutely everything! I grew up in a lovely part of Birmingham & loved it as I knew nothing else. Then moved to Bristol 3 years ago and it cannot compare. The people are kinder & seem happier, the whole city is more relaxed. It’s beautiful & green – literally & economically. And I love finding quaint shops around every corner. Not forgetting the cafes, bars & restaurants that are incredible; no matter what you’re looking to eat & drink, you can find a lovely independent equivalent that blows your mind.

GAMAN TONI PERFECTO COFFEE 0117 9241003; www.perfectocoffee.co.uk

What is your ideal cup of coffee? My ideal cup of coffee is to first clean the cup, have a glass of water on the side and for the foam to be super creamy. The drink itself must not be boiling hot, just cool enough to drink. What first attracted you to the industry? I chose this job because I love to see my customers in the morning; when they arrive in the shop they look very tired, but after drinking my coffee they leave feeling energised and happy. I also enjoy searching and learning about how to be the best barista and how to offer my customers the very best quality of coffee. Have you any special achievements? One of my best days as a barista came when I was in Romania. There was a national competition for all baristas from across Romania to become crowned the best barista in Romania. The competition itself was about how to start the day, latte art and having to explain about each of the beans and the regions they are from. I came in 3rd place which was a superb achievement. The whole experience was amazing and now I can pass on my experiences onto colleagues and also my customers. What do you love about Bristol? Bristol is an open-minded city with a fantastic indie vibe.

RICHARD AVISON (AKA FLICK) 99 QUEENS CLIFTON 01173 179806; www.facebook.com/99Queens

What sets you apart from other businesses like yours? I tried to create an environment that anyone would enjoy, rather than being set to one thing - I think that’s helped make us very unique. What do you find most rewarding about your role? The friendships I’ve created with customers and the regulars that come back everyday. What is your ideal cup of coffee? I’m a bad barista, I drink caramel lattes… Don’t judge. What does your industry mean to you? The industry is a way of life.. I think once you’re in it, it’s hard to stop loving it. What first attracted you to the industry? I’ve always been a drinker and eater.. Actually being able to do what I loved as a job helped me to get into the industry. What is your specialty? Being a hands-on owner, being able to adapt from coffee to chef in two seconds might be my specialty.. Creating good coffee and food dishes. What do you love about Bristol? I love Bristol because of its hugely diverse culture and constantly changing food/drink scene. What is the one piece of kit that you can’t do without? My brand new grinder (thanks to Triple Co Roast) Most rewarding part of your job? The most rewarding part of my job is having a successful cafe that people love.. that’s also been the hardest part too.. but I love 99 Queens, its my home.

Gaman Toni

Adam Heaton

Richard Avison

ADAM HEATON BOCABAR 07943 053053; bristol.bocabar.co.uk

What sets you apart from other businesses like yours? I believe it’s the variety of food and drink we have to offer meaning there’s something for everyone. Being part of an independent with the ethos of keeping things local and environmentally conscious without sacrificing quality is where you really feel unique. When did you train as a barista? Some time after I began working for Boca I started doing real research online, so I’m self taught. I’ve been following people like James Hoffman and bought some material of his online to better understand the industry. What does your industry mean to you? I used to work a 9-5 which gave me no creative outlet. Having worked in this industry for close to three years, I can say its changed my life for the better, whether it’s my new found passion for the industry or the friends I’ve made inside of it. I’ve re-evaluated what’s important in my job. What first attracted you to the industry? The first time I used a coffee machine. I’m meticulous by nature so all of the variables had me hooked. I wasn’t supposed to get so wrapped up in what I used to think was just making a cup of coffee. I’m still learning and I think that’s what’s special about it. What do you love about Bristol? I grew up here and I think it’s only as you get older that you begin to appreciate the appeal of living in a hub for creativity, diversity and acceptance. That and the abundance of good food and drink.

JACK STEAD SOCIETY CAFE 0117 930 4660; www.society-cafe.com

What sets you apart from other businesses like yours? Society has always put the customer at the heart of everything we do. Although we strive to serve exceptional and delicious coffee, we’re even more committed to providing the best and friendliest service that we can. What do you find most rewarding about your role? There’s a real joy in getting to know regular customers. above just being able to predict their order, I love how you can make real and genuine connections with people just by making them coffee every day. What is your ideal cup of coffee? The fruitier the better! Kenyans and Natural Ethiopians are my favourite, brewed up as a filter and enjoyed black. What first attracted you to the industry? Like a lot of Baristas, it was mostly accidental! I fell into a part time cafe job and quickly grew to love coffee and the craft of making it; there was so much more to it than I could have imagined and I always enjoy learning new things. What do you love about Bristol? Bristol has such a vibrant, creative and artistic community that I just can’t get enough of. It’s a beautiful city filled with friendly, interesting people, and there’s always so much going on. The food and coffee scene is also spectacular. Most rewarding part of your job? When a customer takes the time to come and say how much they enjoyed their coffee.