The Brewers Journal Feb 2018, iss 1 vol 4

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l 20 | Brewers Lectures: The lowdown on dUBLIN

50 | WIMBLEDON BREWERY: MAKING A MARK IN LONDON

February 2018 | Volume 4, issue 1 ISSN 2059-6669

46 | brooklyn brewery: steve hindy in conversation

fyne ales Exploration and expansion in Argyll

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I

Make A Difference

t was a real privilege to be part of our first Brewers Congress event late last year.

To have 16 fantastic speakers, 20 leading manufacturers and suppliers, and close to 250 guests take the time out of their busy schedules to attend was something special, and an effort I greatly appreciate.

What has been more rewarding though is seeing how the talks have helped affect a change in-and-around the industry, improve knowledge in specific fields and genuinely give people something to think about. And in my opinion, if you can do any of those, then you’re doing something right. So thank you again to the talented array of individuals that graced the podium. You did a fantastic job!

And with that, we are proud and excited to be returning to the Institute of Civil Engineers for the Brewers Congress, 2018. With 10 months to go, we are on the lookout for industry’s leading lights to find their voice and educate, inform and entertain this year’s audience, If you want to grab this opportunity, drop Rhian Owen and myself a line using the contact details overleaf.

One attendee of last year’s Congress (and a future speaker, once I twist his arm) was Derek Prentice, head brewer at Wimbledon Brewery. Derek is a fount of brewing knowledge, and he celebrates his 50th anniversary in the industry this year. Having been part of breweries that include Truman’s, Young’s and Fuller’s, qualities Derek has always placed high on the agenda are those of camaraderie, and the importance of working as team.

“I’ve see it happen too often where you start as part of a team but then become part of the process. Having experienced both in my career, the camaraderie was a big part of the draw for me here at Wimbledon,” he tells us on page 50. “If you end up going the other way, which can easily happen at larger operations, you can find yourself just managing shifts and you are not brewing as such.”

Having spent an afternoon with Derek and his team at Wimbledon, it’s clear that the idea of the team is

n the tap. program.

editor's choice How Fyne Ales are exploring provenance and mixed fermentation in Argyll, Scotland- page 32

very much alive and well in southwest London.

Elsewhere in this issue, we spoke to Steve Hindy, the co-founder Brooklyn Brewery. Having started the now world-famous brewery with Tom Potter back in 1984, much has changed in the industry. But for Hindy, certain advice he has for newer breweries has stood the test of time.

"You’ve got to make a great beer, you’ve got to have great packaging, and you need a fantastic team,” he tells us. “But you’ve also got to get the beer to the consumers and wherever you are in the world, you need to spend a lot of time working out what’s the best way to this. You also need to know your goals and how you’re going to achieve those."

The Brewers Journal, is now a monthly publication.

So if you’ve got news to share, something to shout about, or a voice that needs to be heard, get in touch!

Own It. Brand It. Ship It.

brewersjournal.info

Tim Sheahan Editor

Visit us online at www.KegLogistics.com February 2018

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co nte nt s

contents 74

50

46

62

39

Cover story 32 - Fyne Ales has long been respected for its quality cask output but in 2018, the Argyll outfit has its sights set on broadening its wider portfolio

Brewers Lectures

Meet The Brewer | Wimbledon

20 - The full lowdown on Brewers Lectures Dublin, taking place on 9 March, 2018

50 - How Derek Prentice and the team at Wimbledon are succeeding by adopting a modern take on classic styles

COMMENTS 22 -Standing out from the crowd 24 - Carbonation: It's the future 26 - Gas chromatography and robust quality control 28 - Kegs: To rent or to own 30 - Beat inflation and inflate profits

insight | canning 39 - The latest trends and developments

The Big Interview | Steve Hindy

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46 - Brooklyn Brewery's Steve Hindy, on why quality and effective distribution is key to growing your business

February 2018

Focus | yeast 62 - Dr. Lance Shaner, founder of Omega Yeast Labs, implores more breweries to experiment and innovate with yeast

ForeigN focus | Garrison Brewing 56- Brian Titus, co-founder of Halifax, Nova Scotia's Garrison Brewing, discusses the the importance of forging your own identity

Technology | Lauter tuns 66- St Austell's Roger Ryman outlines the reasons behind the company's investment in a lauter tun for its Bath Ales operation

Brewers Journal

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JOHN KEELING NAMED FIRST CHAIRMAN OF THE LONDON BREWERS’ ALLIANCE

J

ohn Keeling, global ambassador and former brewing director at Fuller’s, has become the first chairman of

the London Brewers’ Alliance (LBA).

The London Brewers’ Alliance (LBA) recently moved to formalise the governing structure of the group, and named Keeling its first chairman.

Sam McMeekin of Gypsy Hill has taken on the role of deputy chairman of the group that was formed in 2010 with the task of uniting those who make local beer with those that love it, while representing the vibrant heritage and contemporary scene of beer brewing in the city of London.

The newly-appointed roles will help lead the group through a 12 month review of both the role and structure of the LBA in order to improve issues of funding, knowledge sharing and communications. This new working group will also report back to the wider LBA membership at regular intervals.

working party to identify areas of commonality and issues

John Keeling, explained: “The London Brewers’

for development. I’m honoured to be taking on this role –

Alliance was created on a more social level, to bring

and delighted to have Sam in support. It was only 10 years

together those of us with the common purpose of

ago that I was one of just five head brewers in London.

brewing great beer in our capital city.

Now there are 90.

“However, we realise that we need to formalise some

“We need to ensure that brewing in London continues

of our activity to ensure that we offer the best support

to flourish and survive and I’m looking forward to

possible to our members – and to do that, we need a

implementing plans to do just that.”

Magic Rock improves can drying operation

M

in the company’s CB-C Craft Beer Can Drying System.

Christa Sandquist, production manager for Magic Rock, explained: “ACI’s help and knowledge has been great

agic Rock has improved its can drying capabilities

throughout the whole process. They paid a lot of attention

with the addition of a new system from ACI. The

to our particular needs and made sure that once the can

Huddersfield business opted to invest in a can drying

dryer was installed it was up and running and working

system after encountering a number of production issues

beyond our expectations.

One such problem involved cans getting moist on the outside prior to the labelling and date coding operations.

The knock-on effect of this excess moisture was

“The solution ACI provided was relatively inexpensive and helped solve all of the can drying issues we were experiencing. This had a great money saving impact with

causing can boxes to go soggy, which then compromised

the added benefit of not impacting on the compressed

the integrity of the box and also the structural integrity of

air supply. Additionally, we are also saving on staff’s time

their pallets. Initially, Magic Rock tried compressed-air-

who previously were being held up checking the integrity

driven ‘wind-jet’ style nozzles to dry the can exteriors.

of the labelling process.

Whilst the cans were being dried, in practice they

Now we have no more issues with date coding and

drained too much of the compressor’s capacity which

re-date coding due too much moisture and our boxes are

was needed in other vital areas of the brewery. They didn’t

no longer soggy. Overall, we have been happy with the

want to increase the size of the compressor, so Magic

dryer, as it’s helped sort a lot of headaches."

Rock need to find an alternative solution.

The brewery approached ACI and ended up investing

brewersjournal.info

“It’s amazing to see the difference the dryer makes in efficiency of the overall packing operation.”

February 2018

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Make a difference at The Brewers Congress 2018

M

wrong. Simple as that,” he added.

best to prevent a product recall, were just some of the

rousing call to arms on how sexism can be tackled in the

prevalent issues on the agenda at the inaugural Brewers

beer industry.

aking money from cask beer, tackling sexism in the beer industry, standing out from the crowd and how

Congress in November. Now it’s your turn to find your voice and make a difference.

The first Brewers Congress, organised by The Brewers

Journal, took place in late November and featured a range of best-in-class speakers discussing and debating key issues that affect the modern brewing industry.

More than 250 attendees flocked to the prestigious Institute of Civil Engineers for talks from 16 leading figures, as well as a sold-out expo that brought together some of the most respected and innovative manufacturers and suppliers from across the globe.

We can’t wait to return to the Institute of Civil Engineers for what promises to be another great event, and encourage potential speakers to get in touch through the contact details at the end of this piece.

Attendees at the debut Brewers Congress heard from Sir Geoff Palmer, OBE, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Heriot-Watt University, who delivered the event’s keynote that focused heavily on his expertise in the field of malt intertwined with highlights from UK brewing industry.

“You need to understand what the industry’s needs are.

You can’t talk about it if you can’t understand it and with that in mind, technology is science that works. So if you are doing stuff in brewing that isn’t working, the science is

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February 2018

Jaega Wise, head brewer at Wild Card Brewery gave a

This included the need for implementing a marketing and advertising code of practice that would have breweries sign up to and as a result, not use sexist branding within their business.

She also told the packed room that beer festival organisers need to be more proactive to put a stop to such imagery adorning beers at such events.

“A ban on beers with sexist imagery and branding entering SIBA and CAMRA festival competitions…would quickly stop some smaller breweries from deciding to have branding with some boobs on the front,” she argued.

Elsewhere during the day, John Keeling from Fuller’s expertly explored whether brewing was an art or a science. “With beer, there is quality and consistency plus flavour and character. For a great beer you need them in perfect balance. If anything is lacking then you don’t have a great beer,” he said.

Keeling also stressed that you can’t be a real brewery “unless you have a brewing philosophy”.

Robert Percival from Lallemand and Simply Hops’ Phil Lowry joined forces to explore biotransformation, concluding that yeast strain selection can impact on aroma and flavour of beer, hop addition and timing is critical and also, there scope for creativity and

Brewers Journal

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experimentation.

“Go away, have fun with what you do and let us know.

Feedback, feedback, feedback. We want to hear it!” said Lowry.

Dr Bill Simpson used his talk to explore four times where disaster has struck in brewing, including a recall due to a yeast issue at Revolution Brewing in Chicago that affected 10,000 barrels of beer.

He advised breweries to adopt four approaches to avoid such issues.

“You have to think creatively and ask yourself what’s the worst that could happen? You must assume nothing and check things for yourself. Always analyse risk and search the internet for the wealth of advice available. And finally, take responsibility for yourself as experts can be wrong too,” he explained.

Another issue that was tackled during the day was how a brewery can stand out in a crowded market. Mike Murphy, brewmaster at Lervig in Norway, flew in for the event and said breweries need quality and consistency to make a mark.

“You need to be yourself and in the process make great beers, and deliver those constantly. Also, don’t be afraid to be creative, invest in great branding and make the beer exciting for the consumer.” he added.

Delegates also took in an impassioned talk from Stu McKinlay, co-founder of Yeastie Boys, on workers rights in the brewing industry and also the importance of being kind to one another and looking out for each and every member of your team.

Alex Troncoso delivered a fantastic lecture on forming

Paul Jones, co-founder and managing director of

a competitive brewery, imploring breweries to recognise

Cloudwater, closed the event with a talk on serving the

that making good beer is simply not enough.

marketplace that looked at production targets, as well as

“Consideration must be given to all aspects – making good beer is not enough. Culture, marketing, team, branding, sales, distribution and production all comes into it,” he explained.

The Brewers Congress also featured talks on malt

the challenges and successes that come with that.

Jones observed how Cloudwater could further improve the customer experience.

“We can look at growing our influence, raising our voice to show that hazy isn’t lazy. We are also always

innovation from Richard Simpson at Simpsons Malt and

asking ourselves what can we do to raise our benchmark,

the guidelines breweries must adhere to so not to fall foul

and serve our customers better?” he said.

of Portman Group regulations.

Elsewhere, attendees were treated to an inside view of beer buying from Charlie McVeigh at Draft House and the importance of effective beer distribution from Cave Direct

Jones also added that self retail needs to play a much bigger part in contributing to the brewery’s income in the face of uncertainty in the economy.

Special thanks to everyone that spoke and attended

founder Colin Gilhespy. Russel Bisset, co-founder of

the Brewers Congress. And also to the companies that

Leeds-based Northern Monk took an in-depth look at the

sponsored, exhibited and help make it such a success.

evolution of the brewery and also, how it has developed

Thanks to Simply Hops, Lallemand, Muntons, QCL,

its excellent range of beers, which include the ever-

Brewers Association, Anton Paar, Cara Technology, Cask

changing Patrons Project collaborations.

Brewing Systems, Dixon Europe, Enterprise Tondelli,

And on the subject of evolution, Nick Dwyer, creative

Erben, Hpe Process, Johnson Brewing Design, Kemtile,

director at Beavertown delivered a captivating insight into

Moorgate Finance, Murphy & Son, Palmer Canning,

how he has created the iconic brewery’s branding, and

Rankin and Rastal.

how he works with the team at the London brewery to capture the essence of each and every beer.

brewersjournal.info

Interested in speaking at this year's event? Email rhian@rebymedia.com or tim@rebymedia.com.

February 2018

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Cicerone celebrates 10 years C

icerone, the certification program designed for those that sell and serve beer, is celebrating its 10th

anniversary with more than 94,000 people having passed through its ranks.

The program, which went live in January 2008, was founded by former Brewers Association publisher Ray Daniels.

The course covers a number of areas, namely: 1) Keeping and Serving Beer, 2) Beer Styles, 3) Beer Flavour and Evaluation, 4) Beer Ingredients and Brewing Processes, and 5) Pairing Beer with Food.

“In the late 1990s and early 2000s, a lot of places were pouring beer ruined by poor handling,” explained Daniels.

“Additionally, they often knew nothing about the beers themselves.

“I wanted to motivate servers and retailers to ‘up their game’ by learning more about proper beer service as well as beer styles so that they could talk to their customers about their offerings.”

Daniels opted to establish a set of certifications based on what beer professionals should know when working in various jobs.

To help people assess what they needed to know, he published a lengthy syllabus for each exam that detailed all of the topics that would be tested and made them freely available online.

between the Certified and Master levels.

Over the years the program has expanded its training

“One of the great needs in the industry at that time

offerings to include everything from flashcards to week-

was to let people know that beer service involved more

long classroom courses, but teaching has always been

than just pulling on a tap handle,” he said.

secondary to the certification exams.

The syllabi showed people what there was to know

“We have always sought to be THE certification

and the exams gave them a way of assessing whether

program and AN educator,” he said. “A part of our routine

they had mastered the necessary knowledge and skills.

sales process is to let people know that they don’t have

In order to ensure that people could earn a unique credential he selected the word “Cicerone” and trademarked its use when related to hospitality or beer.

The first level focused on beer service and basic beer styles. It was designed for bartenders and waitstaff as well

to take training from us—that there are many options available.”

Cicerone certifies individuals both in the US and across the globe.

He explained: “International development is a key

as anyone in a role where they would talk to customers

activity for us currently. We now offer the first two exams

about beer.

in Spanish and have a representative in Latin America. In

A second level, called Certified Cicerone, launched in April of 2008 and was designed for beverage managers, salespeople, and others who worked full time with beer.

It moved beyond the basics of service to draft system operation and maintenance, beer and food pairing, and the ability to detect and identify common beer off flavours.

While the program initially consisted of three levels

addition, we give exams in the UK, Canada, Australia and several places in Asia as well.

“The Certified Beer Server exam is available in French and Korean in addition to Spanish and English, with Portuguese coming soon.”

As of mid-December 2017, the number of certifications at each level was: Certified Beer Servers 94,880

(Certified Beer Server, Certified Cicerone, and Master

Certified Cicerones 3,305

Cicerone®), it was expanded in 2016 to include a fourth,

Advanced Cicerones 68

known as Advanced Cicerone, which was inserted

Master Cicerones

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February 2018

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Brewers Journal

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MOOR BEER TO IMPROVE DISTRIBUTION IN LONDON AND SOUTH EAST WITH NEW FACILITY

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oor Beer's new London facility will enable the Bristol-based brewery to improve its offering to

London and the South East, and also enable a barrelageing programme.

Bristol’s Moor Beer has confirmed its 2,000sqft London premises will allow the business, which celebrated its 10th birthday last year, to expand its reach across the South East.

The facility ran as a pop-up in December through January ahead of a refurbishment prior to an official opening in February 2018.

Justin Hawke, owner and head brewer explained: “Getting the keys to our new London base means we will increase and improve the supply of our products to a really big market, as well as get involved in an area renowned for its brewing culture.

“On Enid Street we are neighbours with some other great breweries, like Brew By Numbers and The Kernel Brewery.

“We are investing heavily in more equipment so we can also use the new space to do more barrel aging of our beers, giving our products the time they deserve for the best result.

Arkell's Brewers celebrates 175 years in business

“We are excited about how this will support our development and future plans to grow. Having a London presence, as well as in our hometown base in Bristol, is perfect to help us move forward.

“2018 and beyond is a great prospect for extending the quality beers we can offer.”

connection that makes a family brewery such as Arkell’s as essential in the social-media driven world of the 21st century as it was in the 19th century when my great-

A

rkell’s Brewery is celebrating its 175th year in business in 2018.

The business was established in 1843 as an offshoot to

the family farm near Swindon. At the same time, Isambard Kingdom Brunel was building his Great Western Railway, with Arkell’s beers quenching the thirst of workers in the hot locomotive works.

Four members of the Arkell’s family are currently at the helm with chairman James Arkell; his cousin Nick Arkell, head of sales, and James’ sons George and Alex Arkell are managing Director and Head Brewer respectively.

Arkell’s chairman James Arkell, said: “We are

great-grandfather John Arkell began brewing.”

Arkell’s beers include Wiltshire Gold, 3Bs, Kingsdown and Hoperation. The brewery also produced an awardwinning lager in the form of 1843.

Simply Hops calls on brewers to use Mandarina Bavaria

S

imply Hops has brought back its popular Underdog competition, designed to promote the use of under-

utilised hops, with Mandarina Bavaria taking the spotlight in 2018.

absolutely thrilled to be celebrating our 175th anniversary.

Entrant brewers need to register with Simply Hops

It’s an incredible achievement for everyone involved in the

before the end of January, At this point they will receive

brewery and in our pubs.

a one-time code to purchase up to 25kg of Mandarina

“Arkell’s pubs sit at the heart of our local communities

Bavaria with a 40% discount. They then need to brew any

and we thrive on maintaining that close link with our

iteration of a Pale Ale using the German hop and submit it

customers.

to the company by the 16th March, 2018.

“They are at the heart of everything we do, and everything we brew. It’s that personal, individual

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February 2018

For full details on how to enter, and win, the cash prize, visit www.underdogbrewcomp.beer.

Brewers Journal

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FYNE ALES TO SHOWCASE PROVENANCE THROUGH ORIGINS BREWING

F

yne Ales has introduced a range of beers that will help showcase the farmhouse brewery’s provenance.

The Argyll-based brewery is drawing upon mixed

fermentation, use of wood and barrels as well as locallysourced and foraged ingredients in its new Origin Brewing beers.

The first beers, launching next week and forming its Autumn 2017 collection, are: Pandora (8.3%) – an aged, mixed fermentation saison conditioned on foraged blackberries.

Kilkerran Wee Heavy (7.6%) – a dark scotch ale matured in Kilkerran whisky barrels.

Amphora (8.1%) – a blended grape ale fermented in wine barrels with sweet cherries.

Goodnight, Summer (5.4%) – a tart wheat beer brewed with camomile and aged on gooseberries.

we’ve been hugely inspired by what they’re doing to make creative beers that are proudly a product of and showcase of their environment.”

Fyne Ales managing director, Jamie Delap added:

According to Andrea Ladas, brewer at Fyne Ales, the

“For over fifteen years we’ve been brewing outstanding

launch of the new beers follow “huge interest” in complex,

beers on a working farm in north-west Scotland; we are

small-batch beer in places such as the USA.

immensely proud of being a farmhouse brewery.

He explained: “Origins Brewing is the realisation of a vision that we began shaping over four years ago.

“Talking to and visiting breweries like Jester King, Allagash and Hill Farmstead over the past few years,

brewersjournal.info

“Fyne Ales is uniquely positioned in Scotland to create adventurous, unorthodox beers that tell a story and give a sense of where they were brewed in every drop, which is why we’ve introduced Origins Brewing.”

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Marble Brewery's James Kemp joins Yeastie Boys as head brewer

Y

the UK rather than back in New Zealand.

join Yeastie Boys, the brewing company founded in New

dedication to innovation and quality make him one of the

Zealand.

very best brewers that I know.”

eastie Boys have appointed James Kemp to lead its

“I can’t think of anyone better to do that than James

brewing operations in the UK.

James Kemp has left Manchester’s Marble Brewery to

Kemp. I’ve known him for over a decade and his

Kemp, who is a highly-respected brewer, will take over

Yeastie Boys, which recently moved its brewing operations to West Berkshire Brewery, celebrate its 10th

the lead brewing role from March, focusing on innovation,

anniversary in 2018 and have now been brewing in the UK

quality, product development and new recipe creations.

He will form part of a team that also includes

for two years.

According to Stu McKinlay, founder of Yeastie Boys, it

Sam Possenniskie, who founded Yeastie Boys with

was time to get someone on board that was “far better

McKinlay. Possenniskie moves to the UK this May and will

than me to oversee all this production and James is the

handle operations management, liaising with suppliers,

perfect person for that job!”

brewers and more.

Commenting on his new role, Kemp said: “I’ve been a

He added: “We’ve got off to a cracking start in the UK, from absolutely nothing, but we’re always thinking of the

fanboy of Yeastie Boys since I first tried Pot Kettle Black

future and this was the perfect place to bring someone

almost ten years ago and I’ve always considered them to be

on board.

one of the most exciting and edgy breweries in the world.

“I’m really looking forward to having a lot of fun making

“Bringing James into the team is an investment in our brand as well as the product. We’ve long been known

great beer and helping take them to the next level.”

McKinlay concluded: “We’ve not mapped out an

for innovation but in the UK we’ve focused on our core range products, only bringing in very small volumes of

exact plan of what we’ll brew, yet, as we really want to let

seasonals and specials from New Zealand.”

James focus all his energy on his last couple of months

“As our reach expands nationally and into Europe,

at Marble but expect a good dose of easily accessible

and often outside the traditional ‘craft beer’ venues, it’s

seasonal beers, possibly with melon balls, followed by

important to us that we continue to excite and delight the

a really exciting long-term focus on elegant and very

independent trade and that needs to happen from here in

special beers.”

Wimbledon Brewery appoints first managing director

pedigree and significant growth potential.

“I believe that his skills and experience can add huge value to the Wimbledon Group going forward.”

W

Commenting on his appointment, Bateman added:

imbledon Brewery has appointed David Bateman, previously chief financial and operating Officer of

Paperchase, as its first managing director.

Bateman joined the stationery brand in 2000 when the company’s turnover was some £15m, oversaw significant

“I’m very excited to be joining the Wimbledon Group at this time. Mark and his team have done a fantastic job in establishing the Brand both locally and nationally and providing a platform for growth.

“I believe the Wimbledon Brewery Brand – with

growth, with the business now trading over 200 sites with a turnover of some £150m.

According to Mark Gordon, Wimbledon Brewery

its current supply arrangements with numerous pub companies and large brewers, retailers such as M&S

founder, his appointment will help the southwest London

and Waitrose, and traction with a number of high-end

brewery achieve its growth potential.

establishments, is set up to exploit both the domestic and

He said: ““David was absolutely instrumental in the

international market.

“Its recognition in the Country & Town House Great

growth and success of Paperchase. He was – and will be for our Brand – a tremendous business partner and his

British Brands of 2018 alongside such a prestigious group

retailing insight and business acumen took Paperchase

of businesses is an honour the team should be very proud

from being a small UK retailer to one with international

of.”

18

February 2018

Brewers Journal

aber

i nstruments

a dv e rto r i a l

Perfectpitch proves a success for Aber Instruments

P

The first PerfectPitch was installed at the Meantime

erfectPitch, the portable skid that incorporates the

Brewing Company in London with the skid replacing the

Aber Yeast Monitor from Aber Instruments, has

proven to be a hit with craft breweries since its launch.

previous method of using a pressurized “Grundy” stainless

The system features the company’s monitor for

steel tank using weight to estimate the amount of yeast to transfer.

accurate yeast pitching rate control, a magflow meter,

The portable skid estimated the right amount of live

pipework and a mini-plc.

yeast, thus pitching the appropriate litres of live yeast

According to the business, more than 30 breweries that have invested in the PerfectPitch skid and

necessary for an improved/more consistent fermentation

additionally some of the larger breweries have opted for a

performance.

Ciaran Giblin, head of brewing and quality at

hard piped Yeast Monitor.

Meantime, concluded that the system resulted in benefits

“It was difficult to gauge how a sophisticated technology that had traditionally been adopted by the

that include more consistent fermentations, yeast easier

vast majority of the large multi-national breweries would

to pitch and more predictable final PG, among others.

be embraced by the Craft brewing word,” explains Dr John Carvell, sales and marketing director at Aber Instruments.

In terms of the beer losses, Giblin cited that “since installing the PP there has been no beer destroyed due to underpitching or contamination and so the unit has paid

He added: “ However, a realistic understanding and appreciation of the benefits the PerfectPitch brings to the process and product, has since led to its early adoption in

for itself from this alone”.

Carvell concluded: “To cater for the varying skill set for counting and determining yeast viability in the craft

the Craft Brewing world.

brewing world, Aber will be releasing a simple 'Capture

“One of the more surprising fact though is that many of the breweries that have invested in an automatic yeast

Pitch' mode , which will function as an auto-learn feature

pitching system are producing less than 5,000 barrels per

on the PerfectPitch.

“Using this mode, the brewer will be able to teach

annum.

"This contrasts with the initial view from polls that

the PerfectPitch a particular pitching regimen based on

this skid should be considered once the brewery has

their current method. This new function will be introduced

reached 20K barrels over one year.”

in early 2018.”

aber brewery range

The ABER Yeast Monitors are recognised today as the most accurate and reliable instruments for measuring the LIVE yeast cell concentration on-line.

Aber’s COMPACT range of yeast monitors are found at the heart of a breweries yeast pitching system. They can also be installed into yeast recovery lines and are ideal for cropping control at the end of fermentation.

Brewery Labs can now take the strain out of manual cell counting by utilising ABER’s automated cell counter The ABER COUNTSTAR

ABER’s COMPACT yeast cell concentration technology is available for craft breweries in the form of our PERFECTPITCH SKID.

www.aberinstruments.com

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

19

b r e w e r s

le c tu r e s

dubl i n

Brewers Lectures Dublin The Brewers Lectures is going overseas for the first time, and it’s coming to Dublin. Hitting the capital on the afternoon of 9 March, featuring a fantastic lineup of speakers, the Brewers Lectures is taking place alongside the Alltech Craft Brews and Food Fair so it’s both a day, and night, not to be missed.

I

rish beer is famous across the globe and, perhaps unsurprisingly, it remains Ireland’s most popular alcoholic drink.

KEY INFORMATION

Beer Exports were valued at more than €280

million in 2016, up an impressive 23% over a

two-year period, while 40% of beer produced in Ireland was being exported, according to the Irish Brewers Association’s last Beer Market Report.

The number of new breweries opening across Ireland also continues apace, with the quality and consistency of

Liffey Hall 1 Convention Centre Dublin Spencer Dock N Wall Quay, North Wall Dublin 1, D01 T1W6 Republic of Ireland

beer being produced by outfits such as The White Hag, Whiplash and Boundary continuing to make waves both home and overseas.

9 March 2018 12.30pm to 4.30pm

This year’s Alltech Craft Brews and Food Fair promises to be another excellent showcase of great Irish beer, and we’re excited to be hosting our first Brewers Lectures in Dublin alongside it.

Tickets are €25 full price and €12.50 concesssion.

Go to lectures.brewersjournal.info

proudly sponsored by

20

February 2018

Brewers Journal

dubl i n

b r e w e r s

le c tu r e s

Confirmed speakers

John Keeling | Fuller’s

Logan Plant | Beavertown Brewery

John Keeling has more than 40 years’ experience in the brewing industry and is a key figure in the brewing landscape, both in the UK and abroad. John passed over the reins of head brewer at Fuller’s to Georgina Young in 2017, but he has played an integral role in the introduction of beers such as ‘Frontier’ and ‘Oliver’s Island’ as well as more recent launches such as its Black IPA, Espresso Stout and Unfiltered Lager. John plays an important ambassadorial role at Fuller’s and was also recently named the first chairman of the London Brewers' Alliance.

Logan Plant is the founder of London’s Beavertown Brewery. Celebrating its sixth birthday in March 2018, Logan and the team at Beavertown have led the Tottenham-based brewery to become one of the driving forces in modern UK beer. With ongoing expansion taking place at the brewery, and its Beavertown Extravaganza an established force in the events calendar, the London business are force to be reckoned with.

Mike Marcus | Chorlton Brewing Co

David Hewitt | Simply Hops Mike Marcus left his studies in the world of fine art when started Chorlton Brewing Co in 2014.

Driven by a respect for the heritage of German sour beer, he is now making a career producing some of the nation’s most respected beers that are making waves both in the UK and overseas.

David Hewitt is the sales manager for Scotland, Ireland and Scandinavia at Simply Hops, part of the Barth-Haas Group. Having spent many years as a cuckoo brewer, he’s a wealth of knowledge when it comes to hops and his passion shines through every time you hear him speak.

Dr Gearoid Cahill | Alltech Robert Percival | Lallemand Gearoid is the European Director of Brewing Science at Alltech. Based at their world class European Bioscience Centre located in Dunboyne, Co. Meath, Ireland, he has almost 20 years experience in the brewing industry with a successful track record of delivering major brewing development & innovation programs across global brewing operations. He is a Masterbrewer, has been a member of the EBC Executive Committee and has presented at many international brewing conferences.

brewersjournal.info

Robert is a qualified brewing professional with extensive experience in quality and technical roles in beer production, having been a Technical Brewer and QA analyst, with quality experience across manufacturing and packaging for both multi-national and regional brewing companies in the UK. Robert now works for yeast and bacteria specialists Lallemand as technical sale manager for Europe.

February 2018

21

Co m m e nt

S tand i ng

out

beat the competition Seemingly not a day goes by without a new brewery making headlines and the rise of craft beer in recent times has created one of the most competitive markets around. Here, Simon Mydlowski, leisure and hospitality partner at Yorkshire law firm Gordons, explains how breweries need to continue evolving to stand out from a growing crowd.

by Simon mydlowski

C

certainly true within the brewing sector.

feet and supporting these establishments as a lifestyle

breweries have a significant advantage over their larger

choice. This has been indicated by the number of craft

counterparts when it comes to engaging with their

beer products available on supermarket shelves, which

audience. They are often small teams with a limited

were previously only reserved for the large-scale brewers.

number of products and have the everyday contact with

In Yorkshire, we have been blessed with a lot of local

their customers that helps to build a brand and establish

raft beer and boutique breweries are booming. That’s not a secret. More than 300 breweries were launched in the UK in 2016, taking the total in operation to almost 2,000.

The craft beer and brewery boom is showing few signs

of ending any time soon, with consumers voting with their

brewers that offer a very diverse offering to customers, ranging from one-man brewers to large-scale operations

It must be said that newly established boutique

a reputation.

It is clear to see that smaller operations, which are

that supply retailers, pubs and restaurants all over the

typically more agile, are able to keep fans up-to-date

country.

with their latest products. Social media is a key aspect

However, while small breweries and new players in

of this and is growing in importance within the brewing

the market are riding the wave, rising demand for craft ale

sector. Locally, the likes of Northern Monk and Magic

has created more competition for smaller breweries and

Rock are stand-out examples of breweries that have

it is absolutely imperative that these businesses continue

clearly thought about and understood their target market,

to evolve and keep pace with the ever-changing needs

how they want to communicate with them and, most

of the consumer. So, how can breweries ensure they set

importantly, they know what sets them apart from others.

themselves apart from competitors?

Larger breweries are beginning to come around to the idea of marketing their product to consumers. With so

Audience engagement

much choice on the shelves and in the pumps now, more established brands are finding themselves fighting for space, both in the physical sense and in a digital sense.

I

n every sector, it is vitally important that businesses

communication with consumers right is paramount. It’s

they want and how they consume the information

not necessarily the breweries that shout the loudest who

presented to them by their favourite brands. This is

22

With such a crowded market place, getting

engage with their consumers and understand what

February 2018

will succeed and stand out, it’s those who take the time to

Brewers Journal

S tand i ng

develop a clear and likeable brand. Of course, they also need to have the product to back it up.

Evolution not revolution

I

n an industry where the number of direct competitors increased by 18 per cent in 2016, taking the growth of breweries over the past five years to 64 per cent, it is

tempting to do something revolutionary to stand out from others. But, this can be risk and for breweries there are a range of innovative steps they can take to evolve their offering, rather than reinventing the wheel.

The increase in the number of pubs closing down has created one such opportunity for breweries, with many already taking advantage of it, that is, the prospect of a tap room. Creating a unique experience where customers can come to a brewery and drink the products as close to the manufacturing process as possible is what sets

out

co m m e nt

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some breweries apart from others. Of course, Brewdog has taken this to the next level and operates its own bars throughout the UK and Europe and it may be an example for smaller breweries to follow.

There is also the possibility of offering brewery tours to visitors, all of which helps to build loyalty to the brand, so when faced with the wider choice available consumers may plump for a product they have seen brewed with their own eyes. Clearly, not all breweries have the space to develop Tap Rooms on site, but there are still ways to separate from the herd. New innovative ales have proved a solid way to stand out. Creating a niche, whether it be for exotically flavoured beers, extra-strong beers or even gluten-free beers will help create a buzz around breweries and brands.

Drinking craft beer is a lifestyle choice and often those consuming these products are also choosing to eat in independent restaurants or those immersed in the street food trend. Matching beer with street food can help a brewery tap into a growing trend. Food and drink events, tasting evenings and brewery takeovers in bars are all proving popular and helping breweries stand out from the crowd and offer something a little different to consumers.

In such a competitive market, which only appears to be getting more crowded every day, taking steps to make

Phone: +44 (0) 1905 797 280 Email: Sales.uk@pentair.com

WWW.FOODANDBEVERAGE.PENTAIR.COM

sure your brewery stands out from the crowd can be achieved. u

brewersjournal.info

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23

20.06.2017 22:32:21

Co m m e nt

carbonat i on

Carbonation: It’s the future, I’ve tasted it We now have an open acceptance of carbonation, of keg beer, of longer shelf life, but also of un-filtered and coarsely filtered beer. That's before we've even mentioned the addition of all sorts of interesting yeasts, flavours and additives.

As a result, we can now stretch the boundaries of the imagination (and the tastebuds) which leads us into the current world of incredibly exciting and interesting beers, explains David Porter, founder of PBC Brewery Installations and Outstanding Beers.

advice I can, especially if they are paying me well for the privilege, when business plans are presented to me about setting up a brewery and the sole product is going to be real ale. I have to tell them that the competitive nature of this market, and the rapidly dwindling margins available due to oversupply, means that any new entrant (without a guaranteed outlet) is going to really struggle.

Ten years is a very long time in modern brewing but only a few months ago, I had an epiphany and I realised that this epiphany was so close to the bridge of my nose that I could not see it! I had to move it away from my face to bring it into focus. This was the realisation that my famous American brewer had one advantage over other us ‘boring’ real ale brewers and that was carbonation and a sealed container.

The trouble with real ale is that if it served at a bar it

by david porter

can only be realistically be sold in a few days without serious detriment to the product. Therefore, real ale

A

brewers are always going to take the safe approach and

little more 10 years ago I was at a brewers

produce a beer that will sell in this short timeframe. It's

get together, available to drink were many

therefore prudent to usually produce beers that fit this

of the attendee’s products, all of which

category. What a brewer and the seller do not want is a

were real ale. I would be the first to say

cask of ale to go past its best once it's been breached

very good real ale. An invited speaker at

and half the contents to be left unsold. So therefore,

this conference was a well-known American brewer who

producing risky beers (unless it's going to a beer festival

was given free rein to talk about any subject he wanted,

with a big footfall) is a risky business therefore boring is a

he chose to effectively say that the British scene was very

safe option?

good at what it did and that we had smashed the 3.6 to

What we have now is an open acceptance not only

4.5% British style real ale type session beer, but it was

of carbonation, not only of keg beer, not only of longer

about time that we stepped out of our shell.

shelf life but also of un-filtered and coarsely filtered beer,

At the time, I was a little setback by this attitude and

as well as the addition of all sorts of interesting yeasts,

felt a little insulted, after all real ale (up to that point)

flavours and additives. As a result we can now stretch the

had been very good to me and the businesses I was

boundaries of the imagination (and the taste buds) which

running, but his comments stuck with me long after the

leads us into the current world of incredibly exciting and

conference was over.

interesting beers.

I get to speak to a lot of potential brewers and also get

Did we ever have to rely on America and other parts of

to ask them directly about their plans and how they think

the world to show us the way? If we did, we don’t have to

they're going to invest their hard earned money. This is

anymore!

not a joke, but I have had individuals tell me that they are

It's only recently that I have now found myself walking

fed up with over-hoppy Blondes & IPAs and are thinking

into bars and if there is a significant choice of products

of setting up a brewery to only produce cask traditional

available I find myself being drawn uncontrollably to the

bitters and dark milds. Worse still, they were only going

craft keg fonts, not even reviewing the real ale. Is this

to use English Hops. This, I believe, in the current modern

wrong? I don't think so!

brewing world, is a recipe for financial disaster.

I feel I have an obligation to give people the best

24

February 2018

So to paraphrase Mr Kay - It's the future, I've tasted it at least until something else comes along! u

Brewers Journal

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Co m m e nt

G as

C hromatography

Use Gas Chromatography for Robust Quality Control Gas chromatography is an extremely powerful tool for analysis that can be used to give early warning of imperfections. It can also simply provide brewers with a breakdown of a beer’s sensory properties and chemical components, explains Andrew James, marketing director at Ellutia.

by Andrew James

brewing industry is experiencing significant

R

product. The technique entails separating and analysing

growth, with more than 300 new breweries

mixtures of chemical components.

eversing the much-criticised consolidation of beer trade over past 70 years, the craft

launched in the UK last year. The boom

Large breweries have long used GC for quality control

in independent craft breweries is considered to be a

and quality assurance, but it has not been financially

direct response to increased demand from consumers

viable for craft breweries, until recently. Through recent

demanding better quality, better flavour and greater

advances in technology, there is easy-to-use and

choice2.

affordable equipment available, suited for users with no or

In the brewing process, complex mixes of compounds uniquely characterise each alcoholic beverage, creating the individual aromas and flavours consumers enjoy.

limited chromatography experience for brewing analysis in craft breweries.

While the majority of added compounds enhance

It is crucial for brewers to reproduce their product

the desired aroma and flavour aspects of beer, trace

consistently, and for it to remain stable over the shelf-

components can contribute to off-flavours and odours.

life in order to meet expectations. The raw ingredients

These compounds can be generated a variety of ways:

must, therefore, be consistent from batch to batch.

contaminants in raw materials used, migration into

Without a robust method for quality control, this can

the beverage from process equipment, packaging

lead to product recalls, delays and wastage, which can

materials and degradation of naturally-occurring flavour

be extremely costly for smaller brewers. As an example,

compounds due to oxidation, or exposure to light or heat.

a small independent brewery in Wales, noticed defects

Methodology is available to detect minute differences

in their beer, such as changes in colour and off-flavours

in the compounds that contribute to the taste, flavour,

forcing them to issue a recall notice, which is likely to

colour and shelf-life of the product. Accurately profiling

have significant repercussions such as a tarnished brand,

the compounds, which can span a wide range of

reduced customer loyalty and lower profits.

volatility, is therefore crucial to ensure product quality and consistency.

Levelling the field for craft breweries

A

widely used technique for quality control in brewing is gas chromatography (GC). It is used to identify changes that occur during the

fermentation process that affect the taste or quality of the

26

February 2018

Analysis during the brewing process

T

he lupulin glands, located on the leaves of hop cones contain fragrant essential oils as well as bitter tasting hop acids. The composition of hop

Brewers Journal

G as

C

For short production runs at your convenience To reduce beer losses at contract packers Save transport costs and double handling To reduce your carbon footprint c o m m e hromatography To control your own hygiene and QA procedures

nt

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any brewer. The aroma compounds identified in hops are primarily composed of esters, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, terpenes and carboxylic acids.

GC is used to separate higher alcohols and esters in beer as well as vicinal diketones (VDK), such as diacetyl that can greatly alter a beer’s sensory properties. In lager, they are considered to be off-flavours and undesirable due to their butter-like flavour and therefore, their content must be closely monitored in order to achieve a clean, crisp taste.

N-Nitrosodimethylamine also called NDMA, is member of the nitrosamine family of compounds and are also analysed to minimise formation. During the kiln drying process, nitrosamines may be formed in the grain, which could remain within the extract and be present in the final brewed product. Nitrosamines are compounds that are toxic and highly carcinogenic, where high doses can lead to severe liver damage. Therefore, all malt used in the brewing process needs to be analysed for its nitrosamine content. It is important to monitor the final product as well as the malt, to help regulate the exposure of nitrosamines in the consumed liquid.

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Consistency and quality is key to success

G

as chromatography is an extremely powerful tool for analysis that can be used to give early warning of imperfections or simply to provide

brewers with a breakdown of a beer’s sensory properties and chemical components. Accurately profiling the compounds that contribute to the flavour and aroma is critical in achieving product quality. Ultimately, this analysis enables brewers to produce consistently desirable products, providing a guarantee to customers that the product is going to taste the same every time.

This is particularly important for small brewers to establish their brand; this is imperative for success in the craft beer industry.

Andrew James is marketing director at Ellutia. He has more than 20 year’s experience at the business, which designs and produces a range of gas chromatographs,

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GC accessories, software and consumables. u

brewersjournal.info

The Total S single mac complete p

February 2018

27

Co m m e nt

K eg

O wnersh i p

Kegs: To Rent or Own There is no one size fits all solution with kegs. It’s about what suits the business model at a certain time in the brewery's evolution. And that will change in time as their operation expands, explains Mike Hickman, sales director for the UK & Ireland at Schafer Container Systems

The argument that it saves the brewer the initial capital cost and can be paid for out of revenue, can be countered by the fact that money is still relatively cheap and looks likely to remain so for the foreseeable future, rent to buy schemes acquiring equity in the asset and long-term finance deals are readily available on kegs.

The south of the UK is an appealing market for keg rental schemes as unlike the US, we have obvious areas of “low hanging fruit”. Look at London, with only

by mike hickman

T

o own your keg population can be looked at in two ways; as an asset or a liability,

607 square miles and a 10 million population served by around 100 brewers, compared with Texas and California with 268,000 sq. miles and 163,000 sq. miles respectively is far more manageable.

The cost of renting a keg for a single trip can average

though most brewers all over the world in

out of £7.00 with the initial rental cost plus a daily charge

practise own their own branded cooperage.

of £0.25. Over 20 years at six trips a year, you arrive at a

However, one-way steel rentals are another

total of £840 for each keg sent out over this period. This

option relieving the brewer of the burdensome task of

does not account for charges for overdue or kegs lost

repatriation of its asset, and can be a big help to brewers

which may incur a penalty charge.

to speed up market penetration.

Returnable steel kegs have been the ultimate green

So, contrast ownership at £132 per keg over twenty years which can be reduced dramatically by improved

packaging solution for delivering UK beer in bulk for over

logistics with a rental figure of £840 during this time, using

fifty years, Returned to their owners after use for sterilizing

these figures you could have replaced the keg, value-

and refilling, kegs have been a great success story copied

wise, 10 times.

all over the world.

The kegs working life can be twenty years or more,

As for innovative keg design improving reverse logistics and reducing the attrition rates, most kegs used

during which time it may well have been filled and

in the UK are generic all stainless steel identified with

emptied by your customers, based on a modest six

embossed branding around the chime area and faint

trips per annum, some 120 times. Any improvements in

engraving around the neck, this is enforced by coloured

logistics which increases this annual churn only makes

painted bands or silk screening.

the case stronger for ownership, as for an initial outlay of

With all kegs looking very similar this is a problem for

£70 for keg and spear, it costs an average of only £0.58

the craft sector as their kegs get hoovered up with the

per trip.

large brewer’s containers who use this generic design,

When you factor in the costs of maintenance and repair during the keg's lifetime, we should add a further

once inside a pallet it may sit there for months, before being repatriated by Kegwatch.

30% of its initial cost. Alongside an attrition rate of 3% per

An alternative are kegs that can display permanent

year, the cost per trip should still only reach in the region

colour artwork of your logo and script and visually totally

of £1.10 per fill or £132 as the full cost of the keg ownership

different to the kegs used by the major groups operating

over 20 years and 120 fills.

within the UK, being produced using mixed material

Most brewers will always favour bringing the internal

stainless steel and polyurethane it is not attractive to

sterilization of their kegs under their own control rather

metal thieves, a plague in the industry for a generation. As

than leaving the task to a third party whose expertise lie in

well as having the added benefit of a 70% noise reduction

other disciplines, as kegs are far more difficult to internally

and a stackable chime for added safety.

inspect than a cask. It will be the saving in reverse

So, there is no one size fits all solution, it’s about what

logistics, less the initial delivery into the brewery of the

suits the brewer’s business model at a certain time in the

rental kegs, that will be the major saving for the brewery

company's evolution and that will change in time as their

choosing to rent.

brewery expands. u

28

February 2018

Brewers Journal

Co m m e nt

prof i ts

how to Beat Inflation The start of the year offers up a great opportunity to plan ahead, to work out where opportunities lie for you, and your brewery, explains David Gormer, founder and chartered accountant at Square Mile Accounting.

Impact on breweries

A

- Importing capital equipment such as tanks has suddenly become more expensive - Making heavily-hopped IPAs is significantly more expensive than it was (not helped by the growth in demand for US and EU hops) - Higher fuel costs = higher delivery costs - A weaker pound means higher inflation in the rest of the economy potentially putting pressure on duty levels at budgets.

The result of all these cost pressures…….. lower margins and lower profits.

stems from lack of capital and a lack of understanding

Ways to widen your margins

by david gormer

t this time of the year, it’s a great time to reflect on what worked well for your brewery and what didn’t over the past year and think about what you might change in the year ahead to make things better, boost

your profits and protect against unexpected shocks.

The most common reasons why breweries fail usually

of the operational and finance aspects of the business.

Having a successful brewery is more than the quality of beer you are selling.

Following the Brexit referendum in 2016, the pound has fallen by roughly 15% vs the euro.

The drop has also been significant against the dollar, however the USD is also starting to weaken a little. This is a trend which is expected to continue throughout this year.

Knowing how sensitive your brewery is to financial risks is critical in uncertain times. It is important that you clearly understand your margins and also, where your exposures lie by having access to accurate and timely financial reports.

It is also a big stress reliever to have forecast cashflow and profit and loss for at least the next 12 months on a rolling basis. This way, you have got a target to aim for and you can also spot issues far in advance.

It is a lot easier dealing with a cashflow issue if you can spot it six months out, rather than being surprised by an event and then struggle to make payroll.

By working closer with your accountant and business advisor, you should be able to pull together the information you need to do this from your accounting system.

So don’t get taken by surprise this year. Do more to understand the margins at your business and make 2018 the best yet!

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Once you understand your numbers, you can begin experimenting to see how making changes could widen your margins to compensate for inflation: - Experiment with slightly fewer hops to understand whether you can maintain a similar standard finished product - You could consider substituting EU and US produced hops for British ones. Some breweries based in the south-east of the UK have even started growing their own varieties to lower the impact of Brexit.

- If you import a lot of hops from Europe and the US, consider purchasing hops in advance and/or purchasing financial instruments to protect against further adverse GBP / EUR moves as we move closer to Brexit in March 2019.

- Review your production process and benchmark against best practice. Are you wasting time or money? Could you rationalise the process?

- Have you considered exports? If this is a feasible channel for you, the weaker pound makes UK beer more attractive to buyers in Europe.

- Could raise your prices?

Brewers Journal

Johnson Brewing Design has over 20 yrs experience designing, manufacturing, installing and commissioning brewing and beverage systems throughout Europe and the UK • Industry Experts • Over 20 years experience • Over 100 craft breweries installed • Quality equipment designed and manufactured in the UK • Member of the Institute of Brewing & Distilling 07739 456 655 | 01204 887754 | vincent@johnsonbrewing.co.uk

www.johnsonbrewing.co.uk

Jamie Delap (r): " Sometimes Scottish beers don't get the credit they deserve compared to their English cousins".

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Pride in Provenance Fyne Ales had a buoyant 2017. Production exceeded 10,000hl for the first time in a single year, it brewed more than 50 different beers and its FyneFest event was a success. So in 2018, with the recent launch of its mixed fermentation Origins Brewing project and an increased focus on keg output, the team are more enthused than ever about the future.

my first exposure to those types of beers. So each year, I’d go back to the US and learn more about multi-culture fermentation beers, hunting them down to open my mind even more.”

After listening and learning from Chad King, head brewer at Denver, Colorado’s Crooked Stave, Delap was entranced on how one year King could present a theory with research at one end of the brewing spectrum, then return to CBC a year later and hear King offer up a new take on what came before.

“It showed me that there was always something new to learn. That people across the globe are constantly evolving, constantly developing across the brewing map

by tim sheahan

O

ne of the most valuable and special characteristics of the beer industry is that it is rarely confined by geographical boundaries. Sure, you could lament why a beer is readily available in the UK and not

and that we, as Fyne Ales, could also write our Scottish part of the story,” he says.

And that’s what Delap did, along with brewer Andrea Ladas, in a New York airport two years ago.

“That final visit crystallised what we wanted to do and we wrote the business plan there and then!”

Fast forward to the closing stages of 2017, and the Fyne Ales team are seeing the culmination of those ideas

in the US where you are on holiday – although they are

come to light. The Argyll-based brewery has drawn upon

brewing it just several states away. Or equally, bemoan

mixed fermentation, use of wood and barrels, as well as

why your favourite Imperial Stout is nigh on impossible

locally-sourced and foraged ingredients, in its new Origin

to procure overseas. But logistics aside, beer is truly a

Brewing beers.

universal language.

And it’s that vernacular that is increasingly resonating with Fyne Ales’ Jamie Delap.

“I’ve been fortunate enough to attend the Craft Brewers Conference (CBC) in the US each year, but it was after visiting San Francisco back in 2011, I took the time to visit Russian River,” he says. “It was then that I was lucky enough to try their barrel-aged sours, which was probably

brewersjournal.info

The first beers that form its Autumn 2017 collection comprise Pandora (8.3%) – an aged, mixed fermentation saison conditioned on foraged blackberries, Kilkerran

Wee Heavy (7.6%) – a dark scotch ale matured in Kilkerran whisky barrels, Amphora (8.1%) – a blended grape ale fermented in wine barrels with sweet cherries and Goodnight, Summer (5.4%) – a tart wheat beer brewed with camomile and aged on gooseberries.

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“Origins Brewing is the realisation of a vision that we began shaping over four-years ago. Talking to and visiting breweries like Jester King, Allagash and Hill Farmstead over the past few years, we’ve been hugely inspired by what they’re doing to make creative beers that are proudly a product of and showcase of their environment,” says Ladas.

Delap and the team are proud about the reception these new beers have received, but they are also keen to point out that the Origins project forms only one part of the Fyne Ales proposition.

“Origins, to a degree, is us trying to step things up a notch and push the message but it’s also a continuation of what we’ve been doing for many, many years. They are an evolution of what we’ve been doing, in terms of experimentation, for a good while. But it was time to take that next step," explains Delap.

Adding this string to the brewery’s bow in recent years has coincided with installation of a larger 40bbl Musk Engineering brewhouse. This newer kit complements an original 10bbl setup that is now used for experimentation and investigation into more diverse beer styles.

“You could argue that we wanted to have our head turned by the German side of brewhouse manufacturing but the more we dug into it, we realised we wanted to do great things from where we are. We believe in provenance in beer and we are part of British craft brewing, so the Musk setup was perfect for us,” he explains. “It allows us to utilise a full-size hop back so at the end of the boil, we can transfer the whole brew length onto whole leaf hops.”

Fyne Ales have been doing a lot of brewing in 2017,

Cask beer does not need to be a charity case Jamie Delap, Fyne Ales

Fyne Ales is exploring the importance of provenance and mixed fermentation through its Origins Brewing project

growth is the structured approach to creating small-batch specials and making sure we’ve got the right amount of beer in the right styles at the right times. We’ve played around with styles a little bit too, producing some fun new beers that seem to have been very well received.”

Many of those beers have been borne from collaboration.

“We’ve been privileged to work with some awesome breweries this year to produce some great, interesting beers, including Canediguerra, Orbit Beers and Out

explains Delap. “Overall, 2017 saw growth in production

Of Town,” he says. “We’ve also been lucky enough to

and sales of beer in all formats - cask, keg and bottle; with

collaborate with some talented folk out of the brewing

production exceeding 10,000HL for the first time in a year,

industry – Pork’N’Roll from Rome, Brewdog’s Glasgow

which was pretty much in line with our expectations.

bar, coffee-kings Artisan Roast and our friends from Inver

“In total, we brewed over fifty different beers in the past

Restaurant and Springbank Distillers for the first Origins

twelve months, at least forty of which were brand new

Brewing collection. These kind of collaborations are really

recipes. Of the new beers, 19 were cask exclusive, 13 were

fun for us. Each of them bring unique contributions that

keg exclusive and 14 were bottled; that’s quite a lot of new

add new dimensions to our beers.”

beer. The numbers are somewhat illustrative of the year

Iain Smith, marketing manager at Fyne Ales, points out

the increased demand for diversity we had for bottled and

that it is this diversity that gives the brewery three bands

keg beer, leading to lots of creative freedom to brew new

to its existence: the core cask beers; its keg offering; and

and interesting beers like Devine, The Mystic and Cold

the new Origins Brewing project.

Brew Mills & Hills," he says.

Delap adds: “We’re quite proud that we’ve continued to grow our cask beer sales – in a time when too many people are saying that the cask beer market is in crisis, we’ve managed to push forward on our quality standards and grow our sales around the UK and overseas in a way that is sustainable now and for the long term.

“For us, cask beer is a key part of being a British craft brewery – it’s a big part of the UK’s contribution to the story of brewing. One of the key contributors to the

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February 2018

“Of course, there is an overlap with what beers appeal to who but at the same time, we do have certain audiences for each part of this business. Regardless of dispense or style though, we want to take people on a journey,” he says.

The brewery’s own personal evolution sees its current output split somewhere between 70% on its core beers such Jarl, Hurricane Jack and Highlander, and the remainder with its newer beers such as Sanda Blonde

IPA and Mills & Hills. The latter is a 9.5% Imperial Stout

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been in business. Even seven or eight years ago, Delap explains that there was feverish debate over what was ‘craft’ and what wasn’t.

“The discussions were endless, simply endless. But regardless, I have always taken the stance that each new producer of good beer on the scene is rarely one person.

It’s a group of people. And those people are getting out there and telling people about good beer. It’s about getting out there, hearing those stories and bringing more consumers into the space,” says Delap.

“Sure, there are people are pursuing deeply unsustainable business models and I’ll be honest, that is very tedious. They are going around and selling beer too cheap. What’s the point? I wouldn’t say everyone is an exceptionally good egg, but most are.

"On the whole, we haven’t had much of the low price competition that England has. The absence of something like the SIBA BeerFlex up here has kept prices healthy but equally, England is a growth spot for us and we know that.

It’s our happy place and we are seeing great growth with cask across England thanks to the nine wholesalers we work with.”

While cask remains a boon for Fyne Ales, 2018 will see the business expand its production capacity further.

Delap says: “We’ve found ourselves hitting our limits far more often than we’re comfortable with this year, and with what we’ve got planned for beer launches next year, there’s no way we could avoid investing in some new tanks. The current plan will allow us to double our output collaboration with De Molen that features Sorachi Ace

over the next few years, so hopefully you’ll be seeing a lot

and Calypso adding a unique dimension to the beer.

more Fyne Ales beer out in the wild.

Despite this split in the brewery’s core and so-called

“In addition to more of our core cask range, we are

modern, craft styles, Fyne Ales remains fully-focused on

also launching revamped keg and 330ml packaged range

both cask and keg output.

featuring the result of our Workbench project as a new

"Cask is so important to us, it’s essential to what we do. Yes, we are seeing growth in keg but cask is perfect for us. There is a narrative in cask where it can fall out of

flagship beer, along with a couple of other new yearround beers.”

The aforementioned Workbench project has allowed

favour, but in my opinion, you can still make it successful

the company’s brewers to get creative with hops and

and wholly sustainable. It’s not a charity case,” stresses

ways to use them. We were aiming for a particular fruity

Delap.

and floral vibe for our new core range IPA and we’re pretty

“When we started back in 2001, there were more breweries in one town in Belgium than the whole of Scotland. There were really no good ales in Argyll. You

confident Workbench Fourth Draft is close to what we were after,” he says.

Armed with an expanding core cask range, a

probably had the option of a Deuchars IPA and that’s

broadening keg output and its new Origins Brewing

about it.

project, Delap and his team have high hopes for 2018 and

“But over time, we evolved and others did, too.

beyond. But they also know the hard work starts now.

Bringing in bright American hops, taking the platform and

“We want to continue exploration in beer. We know

upping it to where we wanted it to go. Because the scene

cask, we know our bottled output, but focusing more on

was so dire, much worse than English scene at that point,

keg is something we want to do, as well. We’re taking the

the next wave of Scottish beer happened much quicker

initiative but in Scotland, we also need to work together,”

than many may have expected. Pale and hoppy beers

he says. “Sometimes Scottish beers don’t get as much

became prevalent.”

credit, attention and hype as their cousins down south in

There has been a great deal of growth in the Scottish brewing community during the 17-years Fyne Ales has

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February 2018

England. But there’s no reason we can’t produce beer just as excellent." u

Brewers Journal

Malcolm Downie, head brewer and Andrea Ladas, brewer, at Fyne Ales, 2017.

The CANPRO filling system is a state-of-the-art, high-speed, mechanically controlled can filling system designed around proven European counter-pressure-gravity filling technology and can seaming technology. The CANPRO is designed to fill beer in a variety of can sizes and volumes offering today’s craft brewers a wide range of flexibility.

The CANPRO filling systems achieve filling speeds ranging from 80 cans per minute with (330ml cans) up to 600 cans per minute while delivering very precise fill levels, very low O2 pickup and minimal product loss.

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04/08/2017 10:06:29

cann i ng

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THe March of Canning Sceptical market perceptions towards canned beer have, on the whole, long since changed. We're now at a point where it's more unusual than not if a brewery is looking to sell its beer in small pack and not investigate canning. With that in mind, TBJ spoke to some of the leading manufacturers of canning lines, as well as mobile canning specialists, to discover the latest trends and developments in this exciting space.

the small volumes combined added up to healthy sales growth, and hence they started addressing this market by packing bright undecorated or base colour decorated cans on short pallets, and changed their logistics philosophies to allow single pallets to be purchased and shipped from their plants. ”The availability of the lids, or ends as they are known in the can industry, is still problematic as just a single pallet is 180,000 components. But we, like other suppliers are now stocking end components, and distributing them to our customers in 'sleeve' quantities.”

Calgary’s Cask Brewing Systems have enabled many breweries, both in the UK and overseas, to make their forays into canning beer. Peter Love, president of

by Tim Sheahan

the Canadian business, says the area has seen growth as drinkers appreciate fuller flavour, new and exciting

T

beer styles, and often the “buy local” appeal and rich

process to ensure they hit the markets they want to reach,

craft beer culture their entire lives. Now that they are old

while newer outfits frequently explore mobile canning

enough to drink beer, craft beer is their choice,” he says.

he march of canned beer continues, and it's showing no sign of slowing down. The ability

community involvement.

“Once people experience these benefits, they rarely

to roll out new releases in efficient fashion,

turn back to mass-market beer. There’s something

the ease of distribution and also the sales

especially wonderful about knowing the people who

channels that aluminium open up are just

make your favourite beers and being able to talk to them

some established benefits to rolling out your beers in can.

Existing breweries find themselves turning to the

before they even look at manual bottling or outsourcing their packaging requirements.

If you're planning to broaden your packaging proposition, or are starting out on your own business

and support their business. Plus we now have a new generation of beer lovers who have been surrounded by

According to Love, the spread of craft beer and craft beer in cans continues to grow rapidly, and the concepts of quality, well-made beer squeezed into an aluminium can have never been more accepted than they are today.

journey, here are some of the latest developments taking

“The hurdles we faced in the early years, most of

place in the sector, the driving factors behind the growth

them don’t exist any longer. When we first started our

in quality beer, and advice from those that know it best.

micro-canning efforts, bottles were the only choice and

“The biggest driver for these brewers to start canning

just the suggestion of cans for craft beer was seen as a

craft beer is the can makers finally addressing the market

blasphemous. People thought we were nuts. They said

demand for their cans from this sector. The advantages

this idea would never fly. But today, educated brewers

of a can over a bottle are well publicised, but traditionally

and beer lovers know that cans are the ultimate package

the can makers have been reluctant to serve this small

for delicious beer,” he explains. “We’ve also seen brewers

volume market,” says John Jenner, managing director of

shift to a more local focus. As growth in the industry has

Eurocan Sales.

slowed, many brewers are scaling back their distribution

“But as happened in the USA, they finally realised

brewersjournal.info

footprints to sell closer to home.”

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Demands and requirements

print less than 50,000 cans with the same label, so the small or medium enterprise brewer has to find another solution. Wraparound water proof self adhesive labels are

A

s the market matures, the demands placed by

very common, but leave the top neck and bottom base

breweries on they canning partners also evolve

profile of the can exposed.

and grow. After all, brewing is a collaborative

“A printed shrink sleeve provides a much higher print

industry and just as breweries leverage high-end

quality, and covers the neck and base profile. But sleeve

technology and expertise, manufacturers also use

printing and application is sometimes a step too far for

feedback from partners as a catalyst for change.

some crafty canners, so Eurocan has now invested in a

According to Eurocan’s Jenner, some of these key demands and requirements its customers are asking for

shrink sleeving system,” says Jenner.

“Eurocan are stocking 330ml bright cans so that we

in recent months fall into technical support and labelling

can offer our customers a can with an applied printed

solutions.

shrink sleeve, and the loose top end to fill and then seam

“All of the brewers who have purchased our INOX seamers this year are new to canning, and it is a very

them on our INOX range of can closers.”

For Them That Can, the diversity of brand and types of

steep learning curve. We have to ensure that pack

beer being brewed and consumed continues to grow and

integrity is maintained to the can makers specifications,

with that, there is a lot more creativity within the industry

and this means training in double seam setting, quality

driven by both the consumer and the passion of the

control, and fault finding. At least we know that our INOX

brewers.

can sealers provide the highest double seam integrity

They explain: “We live in a world which is ever

possible, so it is up to us to educate our customers in the

changing. The consumer demands new things, new

correct practices to maintain this integrity. Leakers should

trends and breweries and their brands reflect this. The

never happen. Full stop,” he says.

really savvy breweries have a core range but constantly

Jenner adds: “Labelling of cans is another challenge for the breweries; it is not viable for the can makers to

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February 2018

change their offerings introducing ‘pop up’ brands to keep the momentum growing and stopping their brands from

Brewers Journal

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becoming stale.The packaging of beer into cans allows them to do this especially with mobile canning which is

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Eurocan is experiencing strong momentum with its INOX range of can seamers

geared to small batch.

“The other driving factor is the increasing popularity of beer with different market segments.

"Beer was once mainly consumed by men. However more women, especially in the 20 to 40 age group, drink beer. And not the traditional bitters and milds, but other types.

“In terms of growth of beer being packaged in cans,

around it. This is especially true in small-scale can packaging.

“One of the biggest demands we’ve seen is for, quite rightly, quality,” Hughes explains. “I’m not ashamed to say that there was no book on small scale can packing when

the consumer has accepted the format, likes the format

we started this in 2014 and we didn’t see many experts

and enjoys the format. You can see this as the multiples

around. But, when we’ve hit an issue, we’ve solved it and

are following the market and stocking an increasing range

have compiled a set of industry experts along the way.

of cans. They don’t do this if they don’t sell.

In 2018 we’ll write that book so that we can share our

“Moreover, cans have an impact on supply chains.

Cans cost less to store and transport. Though, this saving,

learning.”

He adds: “The novelty of canned ‘craft beer’ has gone.

amounts to a fraction of a penny per can when you take

It is now standard and our customers are realising the

into consideration the volume being sold the saving runs

benefits of cans in their portfolio. The trend has moved

into millions and this feeds directly onto the bottom line.”

from a rush to get into can first to something of ensuring

Elsewhere, Andy Hughes and the team at WeCan Solutions saw their seven lines working at capacity throughout 2017. These complement its new static line based in Hereford, while it’s also enjoyed success with its ShrinkSleeve branding format for cans.

As the business has developed, so has has the market

brewersjournal.info

packing is delivered expertly with a focus on quality and consistency.”

With that, Hughes has no reason to see the upward trajectory of canned beer stopping any time soon.

“Our customers recognise that its not the cost of the canning line which often prevents ‘in-house’ canning,

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it’s the technique, training, logistical, MOQ’s, testing and the commercials which run alongside the running of the line which are the preventative issues,” he explains. “We

It's hard to think of breweries such as Beavertown without being drawn to its canned output and the positive impact that has had on the London-based company's growth

will focus on growing our leasing service in 2018 which provides support, quality and commercially effective

to control fill consistency. The mACS is highly mobile,

solutions.”

measures just 7’ by 2.5’, and has a very small footprint of 17.5 square feet – those features are very important to

Technological advancements

brewers with limited space.

“This mACS system allows our customers to get highly efficient filling and the ability to create new revenue

F

or Love at Cask Brewing Systems, it continues to

streams and beverages. They can quickly shift to new can

experience momentum with its new mACS system.

sizes for current products or jump from beer and cider

The mACS can be converted to fill and seam cans

to uncarbonated beverages such as nitro-dosed cold

of varying heights and widths – from 163 mL / 5.5ounces

brew coffee, wine and energy drinks. Since it features

to 568 mL / 19.2 ounces in volume – in less than 30

a conveyor belt can feeder similar to our larger ACS

minutes.

machine, the mACS can be equipped with pre- and post-

He explains: “This is a micro-canning industry first, a single machine that can accommodate multiple can body diameters. The mACS also has electric cam-driven

packaging automated components such as an inline date coder, nitrogen doser, labeller and other components.”

Moravek are a Czech process and packaging

seamers, this new and improved seamer decreases

engineering company. Their equipment range includes

maintenance needs and increases seam quality and

the BC inline Beer Carbonators that delivers consistent

reliability. That feature will soon be found on more of our

smooth natural carbonation finish and ultra low dissolved

machines.

final pack oxygen DO results as well options for sterile

“A new mACS feature we’re getting very positive feedback about is the system’s ability to dial in fill levels on each of the three individual fill heads, via the touchscreen interface. It makes it much easier for an operator

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February 2018

filtration, flash pasteurisers, CIP, bottling, kegging and canning systems.

Its recent focus in canning was the launch of its CAN PRO 9/2 rotary can filler seamer unit with a rated capacity

Brewers Journal

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output of 5,500CPH x 330ml. Three of these machine have already been placed, including one at Hawkshead.

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Enterprise Tondelli installation at Bad Company in North Yorkshire

“The CAN PRO range is specifically designed to achieve ultra low final pack DO dissolved oxygen

therefore a reduced sized foot print requirement inside

contents as a result of key design features built into the

the brewery

machine,” says Phil Quinn, sales director at Moravek. “It

Elsewhere, Jenner says Eurocan’s double seaming

offers very low Dissolved Oxygen pickup (< 30ppb) which

technology can be traced back to patents in the USA

is achieved with CO2 pre-purge technology from an

dating from the early 1900's. The seamers embody the

independent CO2 channel, and tangential can transfer

same mechanical actuation mechanisms as high speed

with under-cover.”

seamers employed on beer and beverage canning lines

Quinn also says the machine features a rotary filler and seamer design on a common-base with a tangential

worldwide.

“This traditional and industry proven technology is

discharge, ensures perfect smooth synchronisation, high

manufactured from and housed in ultra-modern all

speed operation, and reliable mechanical maintainability.

316 stainless steel fabrications that have been revised

Other highlights include a precise vent-tube fill height

in 2017 for compliance with the European Hygienic

control system with true counter-pressure-gravity filling

Engineering Design Group (EHEDG) guidelines for food

technology for high-speed operation and superior

safety and hygiene,” says Jenner. “We believe we are the

product yield. It also features variable speed operation

only company in the world offering EHEDG compliant

to meet production requirements and maintain high

equipment to the craft beer and beverage market. All

efficiency.

machines are similarly CE Marked and provided with an

Developing on the back of their successful range of tribloc bottle fillers Moravek have also introduced the Combi Bloc combination machine that can fill both bottles and cans on the same frame platform at capacity

EU Declaration of Conformity.”

Going forward, Jenner expects strong growth in cans both here in the UK and overseas.

"We will continue to partner with original equipment

outputs of up to 3,000 per hour. As well as offering

manufacturers to seek as many integration opportunities

flexibility on package type the Combi Bloc also offers the

as we can for our automatic can seamers, as well as

space saving of having joint production on one line and

continuing to develop our own technology,” he adds. u

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Case Study | Bad Company Bad Company has recently installed a new canning facility to enable the packaging of its own beers as

A single head can seamer (manufactured by a

well as contract canning for other breweries in the

specialist can seamer company for best results) is

region.

monobloced with the can filler. This includes under

The can line starts with an all-stainless steel can

cover gassing to control oxygen pick up. These

depalletiser that can handle both short and tall stacks

procedures preserve the product integrity, flavour

of cans for cost saving on bulk can transport costs.

and increase shelf life. Total in package oxygen was

This feeds to a gravity can rinser with two channel for

measured as less than 20 parts per billion during the

future can sizes such as 440 ml or 500ml and using

production.

the same design as high speed lines. Additionally an

Owain Schofield, packaging Manager at Bad,

ecologically-minded water conservation tank and

commented: “Enterprise Tondelli undersold and over

filtration system was installed.

supplied and we have been very pleased with the

The line was designed by the manufacturer to

technical results of the line. We bought an Anton Parr

allow integration of an existing bottling line already

for measuring O2 so we can get an accurate test of

supplied from Enterprise Tondelli to maximise labour

TIPO. This will prove invaluable for validating our own

utilisation with easy access. The addition of a new BRB

products as well as our contract customers. It also

Globus Mega ADE rotary bottle labeller means that it

means we can verify Enterprise Tondelli and their

can be used for can as well as bottle labelling.

partners performance – top marks.”

With the minimum print run of cans being around

As they plan to contract can, Bad has a number of

50,000 and with an economic cut off point of around

can seaming heads to meet customer needs, such as

150,000, this will allow short runs to be carried out

360 end which makes for a comfortable experience

for specialist beers or local craft breweries entering

drinking direct from the can. Additional beer reception

the can market but seeking quality production. The

tanks and conditioning vessels have been added to

labeller can run either wraparound body labels or

allow a full service to would-be contract canning or

body and back label for maximum versatility.

bottling customers. To further enhance the quality of

In phase two, it will be possible to run the two

canning and automatic level inspector/reject or from

packaging facilities independently but without moving

Enterprise was located after the seamer discharge.

any of the equipment installed in phase one, allowing

This ensures that all cans are checked for the fill level

sustainable and modular growth for the future.

and then any cans out of specification are rejected.

Paul Holden-Ridgway, head Brewer at Bad

Only after the cans have been inspected do they

Company, says: “We have several projects with

travel to the can inverter and then drier tunnel before

Enterprise Tondelli and their customer focus on trying

receiving an ink jet code guaranteeing the quality of

to achieve the best flexible solution, means that we

production.

have a plant that should be future proof.

Carbonation of the beer is done by a skid mounted

“We worked together with Enterprise Tondelli to

bespoke unit from Enterprise that uses magnetic

get a number of solutions for our projects and are very

flow meter for the beer and mass flow meters to

proud of the result. Also Enterprise view the budget as

accurately dose the CO2 or N2. This is then followed

if it was their own money which was very refreshing.

by a serpentine pipework to ensure even mixing

We’ll be back.”

and then fed to a stabilisation tank. The assembly is

According to Wilson, the can filler is a rotary design

mounted on a stainless steel skid complete with a

which gives superior control of the filling environment.

control panel and flow plate to allow beer to be fed to

Cans enter the machine and the filling valves lowers

bottling, canning or kegging as required. Additionally

to seal the can. This is followed by flushing the can

a nitrogenation facility is available.

with CO2 to remove any air that will oxidise the beer.

To reduce foaming or fobbing of the product and oxygen pick up, the can is pressurised again with

44

product loss.

Secondary packaging is with trays and a shrink wrapper to manual palletising station.

Craig Wilson, from Enterprise Tondelli UK, says:

CO2 and then filled with product. Once the product

“The project was challenging due to the space

reaches the fill level the valve closes and the can

allowed and also the versatility that was required.

is depressurised in a controlled manner to reduce

However, the final result meets all the project targets.”

February 2018

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Brilliant beer is just the start Having great beer is only the start if you really want to succeed. You also need to know how you will be selling your beer, who will be selling it, and who you’ll be selling it to, argues Steve Hindy, co-founder and chairman of Brooklyn Brewery. Editor Tim Sheahan reports

students from the Scottish capital’s Heriot-Watt university.

Tom Potter, his Brooklyn Brewery partner, and Hindy are success stories; major craft beer success stories and the students want to hear his story. Not something he probably envisaged back when he and Potter were delivering their first cases of beer in 1988 and getting nothing but grief.

As Hindy describes it, much of their early days promoting Brooklyn Brewery beer were a challenge, and one that would test the most patient of individuals.

by tim sheahan

“I can remember being out there in the pubs, going into places that were full of Irish people playing darts and

I

drinking Budweiser. They were new to the States and

n the Grateful Dead song ‘Truckin’, the refrain

they wanted to feel American and that involved drinking

goes: “Sometimes the lights all shining on me;

those types of beer,” he explains. “And here I am trying to

other times I can barely see. Lately it occurs to

convince them of Brooklyn Lager, which is probably more

me, what a long strange trip its been.” While Steve

like what they were used to at home with the darker red

Hindy may, or may not, know this track, it does

beers such as Smithwick’s. But they weren’t interested.

seem like it was written with him in mind. Hindy was the

They’d tell me: ‘I don’t want to drink that sh*t, I’m here in

kid who sold the most stuff for his Ohio Boy Scout troop.

the United States and I’m enjoying Budweiser!’.”

The 12-year old who got the most subscribers for a local

Hindy adds: “It was also a challenge as an awful lot of

newspaper. Oh yeah, and the guy who got abducted with

pubs in New York City are owned by Irish people and at

a United Nations peacekeeping patrol back in his war

that time, the number one draught beer was Guinness,

correspondent days in Beirut. Not the normal career path

and the second most popular was Bass. Now, you can’t

for the founder and exporter of a world-famous brewery.

find Bass and I’m not sure if Guinness would be in the

Brooklyn Brewery’s chairman is in Edinburgh on a brief promotional tour and gearing up to speak to a room of

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February 2018

top ten. Instead, those bars now have a vast selection of beers on the taps and in the fridges. There is more variety

Brewers Journal

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Steve Hindy: "Work on your goals, and how you are going to acheive them."

but it wasn’t always that way. It didn’t happen overnight and it was a case of equating people and getting them turned onto good beer.”

In those formative stages of their brewery, Hindy and Potter had faith that they could make a go of it in Brooklyn and wanted to focus their efforts there. But, as Hindy explains, when you’re told by restauranteurs and master sommeliers that you’re banging your head against a brick wall pursuing that route, it was time to take stock and look at other options.

“The name and connotations of Brooklyn just weren’t the same then as they are now,” he says.

“We were frequently told that people in Brooklyn would believe in our product and take it seriously only if they saw it in Manhattan. So, fairly quickly we had to pivot to selling there and, to be honest, we found out there was some truth in the advice we were given,” says Hindy.

“I think that was unusual, and probably a function of New York City as a whole, but before long, we had people coming to us from all over the world telling us that they had tried our beer and wanted to start selling it in their native countries. We’re talking Tokyo, Stockholm, London.

They were all clamouring for our beer.

“I’m not sure if I told them, or only thought it, but my attitude was like, are you crazy? I can’t even sell the beer, do you now know how hard this is? People were telling us to make a beer more like Heineken and you’re here telling

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February 2018

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smaller, speciality places and to grow the brand slowly.

They disagreed and told us: ‘Hey, we know a little bit about beer and distribution. Leave it to us’. So we did.”

“They flooded the supermarkets and pushed the brand everywhere but unfortunately people weren’t aware of it, they couldn’t relate to it, and they didn’t know anything about it. So that approach didn’t work at all. It was a disaster.

“However, they worked with their House of Beers division when it came to distributing in Sweden and the approach was far more considered and it worked. The same happened in Norway and Finland.”

Since then, Brooklyn Brewery and Carlsberg opened their joint venture brewery Nya Carnegie in 2014, which operates as a brewery and tasting room in Stockholm, Sweden. That project was followed by E.C. Dahls in Trondheim, Norway in 2016 and Jeju Island Brewing Company in South Korea and HK Yau in Hong Kong opened in 2017.

2017 also saw the announcements of the acquisition of London Fields Brewery in the UK, and the founding of a new brewery in Lithuania.

“Carlsberg have been great partners for us. They know

Top: Tom Potter and Hindy (r) in the formative days of what would become Brooklyn Brewery.

we wanted to sell as much beer as possible, but also maintain our independence, and they’ve allowed us to do that. Heineken were only interested if they could end up with 100% ownership, the same with AB InBev, and we didn’t want that,” says Hindy. “Carlsberg’s distribution,

me you want to export this dark, bitter beer?

“And the people wanting to buy the beer were total amateurs, too. In Stockholm it was an SAS pilot and in Tokyo it was oil company executive. But we needed the

along with the investment that came with the 24.5% stake in us that Kirin acquired, has allowed us to grow more than we ever could before.

“One of the contradictions we struggle with though is

money, so we told them they needed to pay up front.

that craft beer, in my opinion, is largely about the local.

That was a great deal for us and a bad deal for them. But

So what am I doing in Edinburgh? But craft beer is also

they paid!

about the brand and some brands travel better than

“It could have been a disaster and they would have

others. I believe that our venture with Carlsberg is a way

paid good money to have the beer shipped over and it

of us spreading our DNA, and not the approach that some

would just sit there, not sell and go bad. Then people

companies have marching into town and stating they are

would taste it, assume it was crap and taint the brewery

going to own it.”

and the distributor. But thankfully it sold.”

However, it wasn’t until the 2000s that the penny started to drop for Hindy and the team. They realised that they were selling an “awful lot” of beer overseas

But for newer breweries starting out today, Hindy says that distribution remains as important as ever if you want to make a go of it in this industry.

“It goes without saying that distribution models are

and decided that they should be paying that side of the

very different in somewhere like the US compared to the

business more attention.

UK. But either way, it really is the most important part of

At that time, in 2003, Carlsberg invited the brewery’s

your business. You’ve got to make a great beer, you’ve

venerable brewmaster Garrett Oliver to Copenhagen

got to have a great packaging, and you need a fantastic

to receive the prestigious Semper Ardens award, which

team,” he says.

recognised his contributions to the global beer industry.

“But you’ve also got to get the beer to the consumers

Carlsberg also assumed responsibility for distributing

and wherever you are in the world, you need to spend

Brooklyn beers in Scandinavia in that period.

a lot of time working out what’s the best way to this. You

“The relationship with Carlsberg was really borne out

also need to know your goals and how you’re going to

of that,” says Hindy. “They started focusing on Denmark

achieve those. And working with a good distributor is one

and we told them that they really needed to look at the

of the most important places to start.” u

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Brewers Journal

STEINECKER

Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker

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w i mbledon

brewery

Staying Power There are few breweries – if any – that can boast a head brewer with Truman’s, Young’s and Fuller’s on their CV. But at Wimbledon Brewery, they can with Derek Prentice. Celebrating 50-years in the industry, Prentice has brewed everything from Carlsberg to London Pride to Fosters. Editor Tim Sheahan reports on how Prentice gets it right.

following the formulas and knocking stuff out as you had to meet the KPIs. Time spent being concerned with the taste of the beer you’re producing, or the style of beer you’re brewing, was kept to an absolute minimum.”

And, for Prentice who started his career in brewing at the age of 18 some 50 years ago, he has seen enough to know what works and what doesn’t. Wimbledon Brewery is working.

The brewery is based on the site of Merton Priory that was brewing throughout the Middle Ages until its dissolution in 1538. William Watney ran the Wheatsheaf Brewery in the Crooked Billet area of Wimbledon in the

by Tim Sheahan

18th century. His direct descendants went on to establish the famous Watney brewing empire.

Y

William Cook started the Wimbledon Brewery in

ou made good time!” says Derek Prentice.

1832. It stood in Wimbledon High Street where the old

“Oh, but you brought your own coffee, I

fire station is today. Next door was the Brewery Tap beer

see,” he adds with a wry smile. “Well, not

house, also run by William Cook. At that time there were

to worry, pop over there anyway and I’ll be

115 breweries in the London excise district.

back in a minute.”

Prentice signals towards the kitchen where a small,

Following a number of changes of ownership, the brewery was taken over by William Quartermaine in

but growing group gather. Introductions are made to

1880. It was Quartermaine who built the five-storey tower

the brewing team and we’re treated to excellent freshly-

brewery, the highest building in Wimbledon at the time.

made coffee. I push my forlorn Starbucks cup swiftly out

The brewery was described as: “Having a modern plant

of sight.

on the Tower Principle, with brewer’s office, malt and hops

“You know, Tim. Not enough companies do this, let alone breweries,” says Prentice.

He’s referring to the simple, but incredibly effective art

lofts, boiler house and tun rooms, counting house etc, together with well-established tap and shop.”

Amongst the 11 beers listed in Wimbledon Brewery

of bringing the team together for what is only 10 minutes

advertisements of the time were pins, firks and kils of

or so. However, in that time last night’s socialising is

XXXK, XXX, XX, India Pale Ale, P.A., Family Pale Ale,

discussed, as is the plans for the week ahead. This veers

Imperial Double Stout and AK Dinner Ale.

from talk of the brewing schedule to what the weekend

A fire started at the brewery on January 2nd 1889 and

has in store and what someone has brought in for their

although the interior of the building was badly damaged,

lunch that day. The atmosphere is relaxed, convivial and

with all the brewing equipment and machinery destroyed,

offers up a welcome break from morning’s brewing.

the main structure of the building was left intact.

“I’ve see it happen too often where you start as part

The modern Wimbledon Brewery was founded by

of a team, but then become part of the process. Having

Mark Gordon in 2015, although the idea has been in place

experienced both in my career, the camaraderie was a

long before. The brewing team, headed up by Charlie

big part of the draw for me here at Wimbledon,” explains

Long, brew on a 30 barrel setup designed by Prentice

Prentice. “If you end up going the other way, which can

in conjunction with OAL Engineering. Established in July

easily happen at larger operations, you can find yourself

2015, the business undertook its second expansion last

just managing shifts and you are not brewing as such.

year. This doubled its brewing capacity, which enables it

“Yes, you were using your knowledge as you understand the brewing process itself, but you are just

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February 2018

to cater for pubs, bars, off licences and restaurants across London and in M&S food stores, among others.

Brewers Journal

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Prentice and the team at Wimbledon offer up a modern take on classic, and sometimes forgotten, beer styles

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February 2018

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Beers such as Copper Leaf, Bravo American Pale,

Quartermaine IPA, Common Pale Ale and Gold Lager have resonated with drinkers. They offer modern takes on styles that often, in turn, resonated with Prentice in his formative years.

These early years began when he started his career at Truman’s in 1968. Following a fruitful period brewing at places like Brick Lane, Prentice was give the opportunity to take up a role at Young’s in Wandsworth.

“Young’s was always one of my favourite breweries so, from a personal point of view, it was a real pleasure to meet (head brewer) Ken Don, who offered me a job.

I resigned from my role as packaging manager at Brick Lane, where latterly I had been packaging Ruddles County and Ruddles Best, and took up the new position,” he explains.

“I was born in South London so it meant a lot to be able to join Young’s. Young’s Ordinary was a Desert Island beer for me. Alongside that it was Worthington’s

White Shield. At the time, it was one of the only bottleconditioned IPA style beers left and, to be honest, I've always been trying to get back to those sort of styles. For me, they were really iconic and they stuck with me ever since. Despite the ABV, they had real body and flavour.

They were magical.”

But Prentice really comes alive when he starts to talk about his beloved PA One from Ben Truman.

“At Truman’s this beer was available in both cask and bottle. But it was tasting it from the tank where it was truly special. It was 5.5% but it was light and it was bright and it was hoppy. So much so, that it almost had a green tint complementing the pale gold. And for me, I’ve spent much of my career going back to that, and trying to get back to that special moment,” he says.

Prentice highlighted the positive experience of drinking that beer from the tank, or from cask, over the bottle due to the way it was tunnel pasteurised.

He explains: “You would be filling these bottles without good dissolved oxygen control and let’s be honest, probably pasteurised it to buggery. As a result, this thing came out tasting like a beer that was six months old only two minutes after it had been bottled!

“Thankfully, breweries are now paying more attention to learning old techniques, and things have moved on, which enable breweries to learn all techniques to get beer in really good condition into all types of packaging – and this includes cans. In the earlier days, cans were really considered the bottom end of the market. It wasn’t really until the Americans gave it a go, paying more attention to filling and pre-evacuation, that things took off.”

Prentice is pleased with the quality of Wimbledon Brewery’s canning output, which complements its distribution in cask, keg and bottle. But, he’s also weary that some breweries haven’t paid the canning process

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February 2018

“

w i mbledon

brewery

If you get your beer right and you get your branding right, with quality and consistency spot on, then there will be a market for you.

Derek Prentice, Wimbledon Brewery

enough attention when building their offering.

“Things have come a long way. We’re probably

somewhere now where breweries have got to a level where the branding is where they want it, and the beers are coming along. But, at the same time, some were caught up with seeing other breweries move into canning so they did the same when they weren’t truly ready for it. And that’s when things don’t work as well as they can, or should do,” he says. “Thankfully, most breweries are improving though and they are bringing their teams up along with their equipment and they are ensuring that the knowledge and skills are in place.

“So, if you get your beer right and you get your branding right, with quality and consistency spot on, then there will be a market for your beer.”

Despite his positive outlook, Prentice is understanding of those that argue we’re hitting a saturation point when it comes to breweries. However, he argues that he has also heard the debate many times before.

“Whatever time you look at history you could probably say there has always been saturation. Yes, I think there will be casualties and yes, I think you need to have your eyes open because we are still at a point where things are quite romantic,” he explains.

“When Mark (Gordon, Wimbledon Brewery founder) discussed his desire to bring brewing back to Wimbledon I was quite honest. I said to him that you have to appreciate breweries have been closing because not many of them are very profitable. Sure, you can make a living but the one thing about brewing that is certain is that it will give you a lot of heartache and it will cost you a lot of money. But you’ll meet lots of great people and have fun doing it!

“And if I was speaking to someone today wanting to do the same, I’d tell them just as I did to Mark. If you have the ability and drive, then go for it. Brewing has been very

Brewers Journal

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Charlie Long and Derek Prentice (r): "There is a real move away from the macro single style beers. People are demanding more styles, and more variety."

brewery

the capacity from the ABInBev brewing operations in Mortlake, you’re probably closer to half a million barrels each year.

“Yes there has been a bit of a lag in the UK with the

special for me wherever I have been and I truly believe

quality reaching the development of the brands but that’s

in the importance of community and camaraderie, so

being caught up, which is only a good thing. And with that

do your best to focus on that. With Charlie and the team

balance being addressed, it means these breweries are in

here, we have that. One model I admire is Ken Grossman

a good position as we are seeing a generation that is truly

and how he has built up Sierra Nevada. He’s a fantastic

creating a renaissance in beer.

role model and if we can do our own small type of thing here, then we’ll be doing something positive.

Prentice adds: “When I started 50 years ago, around

“There is a real move away from the macro single style beers, albeit in different brand formats, such as the

Stella Artois, the Kronenbourg and the like. These beers

7 million barrels of beer were being produced in London

are all very well made, but people are demanding more

annually thanks to Truman’s, Courage, Watneys and

styles and more variety. And with that demand comes the

Whitbread among others. But now, when you take out

opportunity, and it’s there for breweries to take.” u

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February 2018

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craft in canada There are just shy of 3,000 miles separating London, England and Halifax, Nova Scotia in Canada. But like the UK's capital, the brewing scene in the Atlantic Ocean port in eastern Canada has evolved and grown greatly in recent years. For Brian Titus, who founded Garrison Brewing with Mark Obermaier 20 years ago, being able to adapt and finding your own identity is key to standing the test of time.

inclusivity.

“I’m impressed with the Craft Brewers Conference each year. They are fantastic events. Portland was great, as it’s a Mecca for beer. Washington was good fun and even Philadelphia was, too!” Titus proclaims. “We try and bring as many team members as possible and sure, there’s a little bit of seriousness in everything we do, but we don’t want to overdo that that either.

"If we’re not having fun, then what’s the point!”

He adds: “Sure, it’s different when you’re starting out as you’re more focused on making payroll. It’s likely that you will have had friends and family that have helped you out, so you need to make sure they get a return.

"But at Garrison, we’re now at a great milestone so it’s

by Tim Sheahan

time to make sure we do what’s interesting to us, to make sure we do what’s positive, and that’s the bottom line.

W

"We are focused on building a team and that means aves of people from across the

making sure they go home with a decent pay, because

brewing industry in the UK flock to

we hope those people will be with us for years to come.

the Craft Brewers Conference and

It’s up to us to make sure that happens.”

BrewExpo each year. But it was a

Titus is in a reflective, but buoyant mood. Hardly

different animal in 1998 compared

surprising seeing as his brewery has just celebrated its

to the annual giant it is now. Held in Atlanta, Georgia in

20th year in business. Not bad for an outfit that was set-up

the April of that year, the Brewing Studies National Craft

in “protest” against the limited beer options available to

Brewers Conference, as it was known then, was a melting

him and his friends back in the late nineties.

pot of brewing knowledge. Companies like Wachsmann

“We are a social lot here in Nova Scotia and that means

Brewing Systems were promoting German brewing

we drink a lot of beer. But the problem back then was

equipment, while Anheuser-Busch were busy using their

that everyone was drinking the same stuff in Alexander

stand to promote off-flavours in beer.

Keith’s,” he laments.

Also found marching the halls that year were Brian

Before brewing took over his life, Titus was a diving

Titus and Mark Obermaier. The duo had proudly founded

officer in the Canadian Navy and with that, he was greeted

their brewery Garrison Brewing in Halifax, Canada, literally

with the same options each time he returned home and

months earlier, and they were in the mood to learn,

hit his local bars. However, his profession allowed him

network and enjoy themselves.

to see the world, and also take in the diverse numbers

“The industry was a lot smaller then, and it was a much smaller conference, too. We had only been open a short while but thought it would be cool to go and see what

of beer styles that were out there. An eye-opening experience he still appreciates today.

Titus and Obermaier are trained home brewers, so

we could take from the event. But once it was done and

upon leaving his role in the navy, they set about changing

dusted, we thought ‘That’s it, we’re not in the position to

the landscape in the Maritimes and to give it the brewery

afford another one of those anytime soon!'” explains Titus,

they felt it deserved.

the co-founder and president of Garrison Brewing.

But fast-forward to 2008, with Garrison an established

“Halifax was ideal for us. It’s a government centre, it’s the east coast naval base, home to multiple universities

force in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Titus and Obermaier found

and colleges so with that, you have a well-educated

themselves asking why they hadn’t been back. They

demographic,” he adds. “There is also a fantastic arts

swiftly changed that situation and have been returning

culture complementing the many ports and cruise ships

each year, accompanied by different members of the

that visit.”

But things weren’t quiet so rosy back in the late

team.

Garrison Brewing, you see, is a big advocate of

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February 2018

nineties.

Brewers Journal

The team at Garrison Brewing, late 2017.

The duo had found a site so they needed a brewery.

were not conducive for a brewery like Garrison to thrive.

They approached DME (Diversified Metal Engineering)

But fortunately, another brewery in the form of Propeller

as both Titus and Obermaier wanted to work with local

Brewing, was to open only weeks after and the power of

business as much as possible.

two gave the area a brewing voice.

“We wanted to keep the money and its impact local,”

“We were lucky because if it was just us, we couldn’t

says Titus. “But I’ll be honest, you get to near the finish

have advanced as well as we did. Who knows how things

line and find out you’ve long since run out of money! So

would have gone?” he asks.

we asked DME how we could tweak the setup to make it affordable. We ended up with a used kettle from an

But for the team at Garrison, things went just fine.

Beers such as McNab’s Pale, Raspberry Wheat,

older system, and a hot liquor tank for a steam brewery.

Martello Stout, Titanic Ale, and Jalapeno Ale resonated

So we had a a system that had three vessels that were

with drinkers and the wider wave of craft brewing in North

geographically close to each other in the building but

America and Canada grew once more.

very far apart in their intended use. But both us and DME made it work and we’ve never looked back!

With that hurdle overcome, Garrison’s first beer, an Irish Red, hit the market in August 1997, swiftly followed

By 2004, it was time to move and a vacant & derelict, though historic, Immigration Annex on the south-end waterfront was crying out for a brewery.

“We knew there were plans for regeneration in the area

by a Nut Brown several months later. The team were

but when we first saw the building, it was all rats, pigeons

proud of their creations, but convincing the buying public

and broken glass,” Titus laughs. "Not quite the world-class

was more of a challenge.

seaport you have now. But that aside, we were the first to

“Those first years were tough and it was a challenge

anchor there and in that time we tripled production. And

to get taken seriously. We weren’t using the term craft,

once again, by 2012, we had maxed out what we could do

instead we were micro brewers. But with that, the rules

there and it was time too look forward.”

weren’t setup for us. There were no parameters and there

Garrison found an old train repair facility that they

were no guidelines to follow,” he explains. “So they’d be

converted to house its new brewery and they were up

no shelves setup for beers like ours and there were no

and brewing by summer 2014. The team returned to DME

inviting taps there for us to fill. So you had to sit down

which supplied a 30(35)bbl PEI brewhouse that comprises

and convince people of the beer’s merits. If a bar couldn’t

four vessels and a cold and hot liquor tank. These work

accommodate a 50l keg, then could we give them two

with FVs that range from 30bbl up to 120bbl. The original

20l kegs and try and make it work logistically for them

market unit has long since been retained for pilot brews

behind the bar.”

and collaborations.

Titus recalls sitting down with the Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation and stressing that the rules they had in place

Garrison's brewing team is led by Daniel Girard, someone Titus is effusive with praise towards.

“

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You can ruin a perfectly good beer in the final seconds of the process if you’ve not properly focused on packaging.

Brian Titus, Garrison Brewing

Garrison has invested heavily in in-house packaging equipment from Prospero and Palmer Canning

“Daniel is a super creative brewer that loves the freedom he has to brew lots of different beers. He is classically trained at VLB Berlin and he has also brewed in places such as Asia. He is super dedicated and I'll tell you, they are hard to find. I’m hoping he retires here!” he exclaims.

Garrison’s beer portfolio is split into the core, in season, specialities, the cellar series, Glutenberg gluten-free, and it’s benched range of beers that have been parked

on the market but we didn’t see the value on taking that route. You can ruin a perfectly good beer in the final seconds of the process and if you’ve not thought about that issue, then that’s a problem. You need to focus on packaging.”

As Garrison’s own business has grown and evolved over its lifetime, the wider brewing industry in Nova Scotia and Canada has, too.

Around eight years ago, Titus observed the first

for the time being. Brewmaster Girard leads a team that

flickering of growth in the province’s brewing scene and

produces beers that end up in keg, bottle and, more

since then, brewery openings have continues apace.

recently, can.

There are now around 42 breweries. Couple that with a

Bottling is handled by a four head Prospero line

population of 920,000 and you've got the highest number

that follows the extreme perimeter of the brewery’s

of breweries per capita in Canada. But, as Titus points out,

packaging area. This was done with the idea of potentially

there is also something of an ageing population in the

moving into canning at some point. That point hit and

province so such impressive figures do not necessarily tie

the company invested in a 12 head Palmer Canning line

up as you'd expect.

with depalletiser, which sits snugly alongside the bottling setup.

“We essentially watched the rise of canning in the beer

“Halifax is the only true centre centre in Nova Scotia and beyond that, it’s large towns but we are seeing lots of new start-ups popping up in these rural areas. They are

world and saw the increased emphasis breweries were

creating beacons of hope for good beer and people are

placing on it. It was happening in North America and it

embracing that,” he explains. “They are making craft beer

was happening in Canada. Some breweries were opening

inroads that the Garrisons or Propellers could ever think

without any bottled output and we thought, like it or not,

of making in 20 years. But these new businesses, run by

we need to look at this area,” says Titus. “It’s great to be

young people are giving it a go and people are buying

able to offer canned beer but we still do a great deal in

into that as a result, regardless of the average age of the

341ml returnable bottles and also some in 650ml special

population we have here."

releases, too. But you can’t ignore cans. We only started canning in May 2017 and it now accounts for 15% of our output and it’s on course to grow to 30%. After that, who knows where it’s going to go."

He adds: “We could have gone for cheaper options

brewersjournal.info

But with this wide industry growth, Titus is seeing the impact it is having on Garrison’s business, too.

He explains: “When things took off, I wasn’t surprised, but the way it has continued, does. It’s cool to have two pizzerias on a corner but to have a whole row of them?

February 2018

59

Garrison has enjoyed success with its core, but is also a firm advocate of limited and seasonal beers

Then that makes things difficult.

we don’t know how this will shake out. Everyone I have

“We’ve enjoyed double-digit growth over the last

seen that brings a decent product to the table, I see doing

decade but this year (2017), we are seeing the effects of,

doing well. I want them to do well as it sends out the right

I’m gonna say it, saturation. It’s a levelling off of growth

message, and they are converting people to craft. Even

and it’s something I thought would happen in 2016. But

if a consumer is drinking great beer from the small local

instead we had our best year in terms of volume that year.

producer, when they come to Halifax, they won’t go back

Now though, the levelling off is becoming evident. It’s

to Moors Lite. They will try something from a brewery like

great that all of these new businesses are coming in as

ours.”

they drive the visibility of good beer and they are helping

And with that, Titus wants to see more breweries like

make something that is till a little niche become more

Garrison offering something different, something unique.

mainstream. Craft beer still only represents 6-7% of beer

But always underpinned by good beer and a passion for

sold in Nova Scotia, so there is a lot to be converted. But

doing things for the right reasons.

in reality, we’ll find the new norm at some point. Does

“It’s simple. If you want to be a brewer, you should

that translate to success for each of the new breweries?

build a brewery. It should start with barley and grains

Probably not. I’d say inevitably not.”

and, for me, that’s the ticket to being in this scene. There

Titus is comfortable in what that means for Garrison

is too much of a focus on making money quickly and I

because, after 20 years, they have found their market

see a shift from craft to crafty,“ he explains. “This concern

and they are sustainable. But he is still concerned for the

me because when you’d go to CBC many years ago, the

newer wave of brewers.

talks were about all of us being in it together and growing

“If we didn’t grow again, we could still make money,

the industry. Then gradually, in recent years, it’s been

make beer, have fun and deliver that great product to the

warnings about quality, saturation, and the issues with

community. And that’s why we started,” he explains. “But if

finding routes to market. There has been a change.”

you’ve just started, and the taps on the bar are filled, and

He adds: “One reason Garrison has been successful

all you’re being offered is short period on a rotational tap

is because we’ve found a formula. It’s our formula, not

after you’ve just built a $2m brewery, then that scares me.”

a photocopy of someone else's. We started a brewery

He adds: “I fear we’ll end up with a scene with hungry breweries that have no space to move into and I worry what people will do when they have to make those tough

identifying what wasn’t being done. We hit that niche and others need to take the same approach.

“Do that, then work hard and play hard. I try to make

choices. It’ll be unfortunate if they start working against

that rule the day because that’s what it is. We’re not

each other. We’re a collaborative industry but ultimately,

saying lives, we’re making beer so let’s do some good! u

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February 2018

Brewers Journal

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SCi e n c e

yeast

Experiment and Innovate with Yeast The role yeast plays in beer flavour is being reexamined, and brewers are showing more curiosity about what experimentation with yeast can bring to their brews and leveraging what immense biodiversity there is out there, explains Dr. Lance Shaner, founder of Omega Yeast Labs.

growth. Even a certain strain’s signature range of flavour can change in the intensity or character it imparts in relation to growth factors like pitch rate and metabolic health or stress.

This means simply that there are many elements that are key to orchestrating the permutations of flavour yeast adds, and some elements depend on the artistry--the knowledge, technique and vision--of the brewer, and some are related to the health and quantity of yeast cells the brewer is working with.

As a brewers’ work is to create not only an artful

by DR. Lance shaner

flavour profile through ingredients and process but also to create it consistently over time, having healthy yeast

H

cells and the right amount of yeast cells is important to

ops, malt and yeast, as well as

manipulating flavour consciously and in a way that can be

fermentation temperature and pitch

replicated.

rate are among the primary contributors

We consider it our job to ask ourselves what brewers

to flavour in beer. Hops and malt as

need in order to brew best. That’s what guides us. We

ingredients have been experimented

want to improve anything we touch to make it easier for

with pretty comprehensively. In comparison, yeast hadn’t begun to be explored to the same extent until recently.

There are traditional beer styles recognized for their

brewers to brew better beer.

I’d say we are as fascinated by propping the standardbearing strains expertly as we are excited by making

yeast-driven signatures, like hefeweizen and saison,

interesting or unusually useful strains commercially

but, recently, there are newer beer-stylings that are

available. And more than just finding new strains, new

using yeast-contributed flavour to add an additional or

strains are also being created through hybridization.

nontraditional complexity like never before.

Yeast’s role in beer flavour is definitely being

We have one hybrid right now that we’re really proud of, our “Saisonstein’s Monster.” We successfully mated a

reexamined. Brewers are showing more curiosity about

notoriously finicky saison strain to the docile kinetics of

what additional flavour yeast experimentation can bring

another and got hundreds of viable offspring. We brewed

to their brews and leveraging what immense biodiversity

through those until we found the one that displayed

there is out there in yeast.

the best of both parents. It is something brand new for

Yeast-contributed flavour comes not only from the yeast characteristics by strain, but also the yeast’s cell

62

February 2018

brewers, something that works well and has desirable flavour complexity.

Brewers Journal

yeast

It’s exhilarating to have an idea of how you can improve

SCi e n c e

And we think there are a few more promising

something and see it come to fruition. We definitely look

Norwegian strains with some interesting characteristics

forward to having the time to develop more in our hybrid

that we’re still exploring: one in particular imparts a

program.

desirable fruity, juicy profile that adds a modern taste

HotHead ale, a Norwegian farmhouse strain, is a great

profile to a beer brewed with less expensive or easier to

example of a newly discovered strain. Kveik, which means

get hop varietals. In testing, we immediately thought, ‘this

“yeast” in a particular Norwegian dialect, these strains

is adding to the conversation at the boundary between

were discovered recently (to the world outside Norway)

yeast and hops. This needs to be out there.

through the work of Lars of the famous Larsblog.

HotHead is pretty unique as an ale strain in that

It could be important also in countries like Canada that experience hop shortages. We’ll likely add it to our

temperature affects fermentation speed predictably

catalog after we expand into our larger production space

relative to cell growth, but the fruity ester profile does not

in January.

increase dramatically with heightened temperature.

This means you can ferment it at the high end of its

Yeast and its contribution to flavour

extraordinarily broad range and it fruity ester profiles do not heighten significantly. That’s a remarkable variance in expected behaviour, and in its singularity, becomes an incredibly useful tool for a homebrewer, for example, who wants to brew a pale ale in hot climates without temperature control.

brewersjournal.info

T

his strain is especially exciting in relation to what we see as this year’s runaway favourite beerstyling, too -- the hot-topic New England IPA

(NEIPA):

February 2018

63

SCi e n c e

yeast

The NEIPA itself is a great vehicle to talk about the

The Norwegian farmhouse strains have a remarkable

rising interest in yeast-contributed flavour. The dramatic

temperature tolerance (fermenting from roughly 65°-

increase in sales of strains well-suited for NEIPAs in the

95° F [18°- 35°C]) compared to typical ale yeast that

latter half of this year confirms for us in no uncertain terms

ferment in the upper 60°s to lower 70°s F [19°- 23°C]. And

that NEIPA is the biggest brewing trend in the US in 2017.

most importantly for the style, many of these strains do

NEIPA is characterized by huge, fruity hop aroma,

produce ample fruity esters. This could allow brewers

comparatively low bitterness, and a hazy appearance.

to amp up the fruitiness or even forego the use of

Yeast strain choice for NEIPA is driven by attenuation

expensive, harder to get hop varietals.

level (frequently lower attenuation strains that result

Another variation on the NEIPA style could be the use

in residual malty sweetness), ester production (fruity

of alternative yeasts such as Lachancea thermotolerans

aromatic compounds that complement modern hops),

to add unique flavours. Some L. thermotolerans strains

and perhaps controversially, the inducement of haze.

produce significant amounts of lactic acid, lending a tart

Many of the strains used are quite flocculent -- they clump together and drop out of the beer. In most brewing scenarios, this would result in a brilliantly clear

flavour to beer. This could be a way to add a perception of "juiciness" to a NEIPA. Either way, aficionados of crystal clear beer may be

beer. However, the inclusion of flaked oats and/or flaked

disappointed to see the phenomenon grow, but brewers

wheat in the grist, along with dry hopping during active

will likely expand on the style by incorporating adjuncts

formation, leads instead to a beer with a stable haze that

or exploring different yeast strains in an effort to stand out

acts more like a colloidal suspension (think milk). Even

from the competition. Embrace the haze! u

extended cold ageing does not clarify most of these

About the Author: Omega Yeast Labs Founder, Dr. Lance Shaner earned his Ph.D. in microbiology and molecular

beers.

Importantly, the haze is not a result of significant amounts of yeast in suspension.

It’s the grist, yeast choice, and modern fruity hops

genetics from the University of Texas Health Science Center in Houston.

His research focused on the genetics and biochemistry

that lead to the signature "juicy" result that is craved by

of molecular chaperones in the model eukaryote

craft beer drinkers these days. Judging by the popularity

Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Today he has 18 years of home

of breweries specializing in this style, many craft beer

brewing under his belt, a decade of laboratory experience,

consumers are not put off by an appearance that would

including five years of original research on the stress

have been indicative of a severely flawed beer not that

response of brewer’s yeast.

long ago.

WIth legs to carry the trend far into 2018, we think

Lance founded Omega Yeast Labs in 2013. Omega Yeast propagation techniques produce metabolically strong yeast

potential further advancements could include additional

cells by design, with focus on healthy fermentation and

yeast strain options, like those promising kveik strains.

optimized cell counts.

64

February 2018

Brewers Journal

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fruits like peach.

te c h n o lo gy

lauter

tun

So, I bought a lauter tun Roger Ryman, brewing director at St Austell, has previously said that by investing in good quality raw materials, you don’t need anything more complicated than a mash tun to convert it. Embracing a shift of opinion to produce a range of beer styles in the new Bath Ales brewery, speaking at the Brewers Lectures in Bristol late last year, Ryman explained why St Austell’s did in fact purchase a lauter tun.

we considered the merits of lauter tun vs. mash tun. In many cases I have seen brewers install lauter tuns on the basis of having the flexibility of handling variable quality raw materials, in the uncertainty of assured availability of good quality malting barley over the working life of the equipment. This in has many cases becomes a selffulfilling prophecy. Once flexible equipment is installed, the temptation to reduce raw material specifications for financial return is real. ‘’We elected for simple mash tun technology which requires consistent supply of high quality raw materials to feed it. For us, this means well modified malt made from low nitrogen Maris Otter barley. We then set about assuring the availability of this barley by working with our supply chain and establishing direct grower contracts with barley farmers (local) who we know and trust

by Rhian Owen

to produce a high quality barley. We elected to invest in our raw material and the supply chain, rather the over-complex

A

brewhouse equipment.’’

very wise man from Fullers once told

It is important, however, to recognise what you want

me that brewing is a gentle process,”

from your brewhouse. “Ultimately, what we’re looking

says Roger Ryman, brewing director at

for is good quality wort, flexibility to deal with different

St Austell. “And when you look at the

raw materials, also flexibility to deal with different styles

lauter tun and you see all the stirring and

of beers and quantities, and we’re looking for a return of

pumping, you may think ‘crikey, that’s all a bit intensive,

investment. So it’s all about operating costs and capital

surely you have to be kinder on the beer instead of using

costs from the brewery, and of course it does help if it

all of this mechanical energy?’ And, yes, there is a risk

looks fantastic,” Ryman says.

associated with this kind of process.”

Ryman explains that when it comes to brewhouse

It seems intricate then that Ryman, a seemingly

optimisation and selecting a mash tun, lauter tun or mash

intransigent advocate of the mash tun, would invest in

filter, it is always going to be a balance, trading off certain

a lauter tun 18 months ago. In 2015, when asked to give

aspects you may want from your brewhouse. “It is a case

a comment for a presentation at the Brewery Engineers

of really assessing those different technologies and the

Association Brewhouse, Ryman had this to say:

various merits associated with them,” Ryman says.

‘’When we replaced the brew-house (at St Austell)

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February 2018

“I think for most people, especially smaller brewers,

Brewers Journal

lauter

tun

te c h n o lo gy

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tŽƌƚ YƵĂůŝƚLJ

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LJĐůĞ dŝŵĞ what are really looking for is wort quality,” Ryman says.

needs to look at operating costs and maintenance costs.

“So I think the mash tun still wins hands down in terms of

Usually the capital cost is greater if you’re going to invest

delivering good consistent bright quality wort. Capital cost

in that technology.

also matters because you only have a certain amount of

Bath Ales acquistion

money to spend and mash tuns are simple and relatively inexpensive.

“Flexibility is also hugely important as you’re going to be looking at being able to brew different types of beer and different brew lengths,” Ryman adds. In terms of flexibility, Rymans adds that the lauter tun performs better than a mash tun.

When breweries start coming into larger production,

O

n 1 July 2016 St Austell Brewery acquired Bath Ales, including its brewery, portfolio of beer brands and their 11-strong pub and restaurant

estate. When the Cornwall-based brewery bought Bath Ales they had an infusion mash brewhouse with a

automation becomes important. Lauters and mash filters

50 barrel brew length, brewed twice a day, which was

are most suitable for this purpose, and then the brewery

working at capacity.

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

67

te c h n o lo gy

lauter

tun

Do you have enough updraft for your copper?

Successful installation of the lauter tun relies on getting the wort kettle vent diameter right. The above diagram and the calculation to the right show consultant JM Bowler's approach at the Bath Ales site.

68

February 2018

Brewers Journal

lauter

brewersjournal.info

tun

te c h n o lo gy

February 2018

69

te c h n o lo gy

lauter

tun

In order to grow the business, St Austell had to

“For one, the capital cost was actually less than the

consider what they were going to do with the brewhouse.

dual mash option, and that’s because to get the cycle

In March 2017 the brewery announced its plans for Bath

times we would have to put an extra vessel in.” he says.

Ales, which includes a multi-million pound investment.

“And we were satisfied that the engineering design

“When we acquired the business about 18 months ago, the current operation is they have an infusion mash

eliminated the negatives.”

Ryman adds that a lauter tun is essential for

brewhouse with a 50 barrel brewlength, which is brewed

competitive tendering with continental suppliers, as well

twice a day, and is working at capacity,” says Ryman. “In

as being able to brew authentic European styles lagers

order to grow the business we had to consider what we

and flexibility to brew other beer styles.

were going to do with the brewhouse. We could put on a

“All brewhouses need to have the flexibility to produce

night shift, but that has imitations with the current facility,

a range of beer styles. We make our Korev lager in St

which is extremely tight and congested and we don’t

Austell using an infusion mash tun so clearly you can

have the fermentation capacity, so we had to move to a

make good lager using an infusion mash. But with Bath

new brewing space. We could just upsize the brewing kit

Ales we wanted to benchmark our suppliers; we’ve

and take it up to 100 barrels, or we could retain a 50 barrel

ordered our brewhouse from Musk Engineering, a UK

brewlength and increase the frequency up to four brews

manufacturer. They would have supplied us a double

a day. The small rapid batch has given us flexibility. We all

infusion mash tun system if that’s what we wanted, but

know how the market is going today - we need to be able

as soon as you start talking to the Germans they aren’t

to produce a range of different types of beers and we

going to talk to you about mash tuns. From a competitive

need to be able to produce them in small batches.”

tendering place, if you want to include the German

Ryman says that the small and rapid batch requires

technology, which really if you’re looking at an automated

less physical infrastructure but greater investment in

brewhouse you have to do that, then you’ve got to look at

control. The two options that the brewery had were

the continental brewing method.”

for a four vessel vessel (mash mixer, lauter, kettle and

Bath Ales is certain it'll be brewing a flexible range of

whirlpool) or a five vessel (2 x mash tuns, underback,

beers. “We want the flexibility to brew a range of styles,

kettle, and whirlpool). So why did they invest in a lauter

We'll brew a lager in that brewery. We haven’t worked out

tun?

with the branding is yet, but that’s a minor detail.” u

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February 2018

Brewers Journal

c l a s s i f i e d

malts continued

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yeast

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February 2018

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Brewers Journal

ray

dan i els

O n e

fo r

th e

roa d

One for the road...

Ray Daniels is the founder and director of the Cicerone Certification Program. The program, which is designed for those that sell and serve beer, is celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2018 with more than 94,000 people having passed through its ranks. many local options now. For them, I think "volume" will be key. That means having a beer that people want to buy every week and look forward to opening when they come home from work.

What advice do you have for your previous boss?

Ten years ago, I worked for Bob Pease at the Brewers Association. He's accomplished a lot since then and I have consulted him for help with management challenges on a couple of occasions as Cicerone has grown. Under the circumstances, I guess I'd say "Steady as she goes.

What was the last present you gave someone?

What was the last beer you drank?

I recently gave my son tickets to see the musical Literally: Captain Lawrence Brewing Company's Tears of

"Hamilton." I wish every young American could see it. u

Green, a New England-style IPA. What beer would you use to introduce to someone that has never tried one?

We have such a range of flavours available in beer that it literally might take a half-dozen really different beers to get at what someone likes. For some folks we should go with a doppelbock; others would love a gueuze. So I think I would first ask what beverages they do enjoy to try to understand their general tastes before picking where to start.

Is it better to be perfect and late, or good but on time?

I'm personally always pushing to get it done--whether

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there's a deadline or not. But we've done personality tests and everyone in our exam and content teams (including me) has a strong ranking on the "get it right" trait. So as an organization, "perfect but late," wins out.

What will be big in beer in 2018?

"Local" is the thing right now in the US and it seems to me that this has always had appeal in the UK market.

So for smaller players, maintain and build your "local" presence and positioning. Conversely, the bigger craft players are struggling to appeal to drinkers who have so

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South East Bottling Limited Unit 2 & 3, Northdown Industrial Est., Broadstairs, Kent, CT10 3JP 01843 865000 | michal@sebottling.co.uk | southeastbottling.co.uk

February 2018

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date s

&

e v e nt s

events

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

Craft Beer Rising returns to the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane in London on 22-24 February CMY

K

25/01/18 - 27/01/18

Manchester Beer & Cider Festival Manchester Central, Manchester mancbeerfest.uk 08/02/18

Brewers Lectures Leeds The Northern Monk Refectory, Leeds lectures.brewersjournal.info 20/02/18 - 24/02/18

GBBFWinter, Norwich The Halls, Norwich winter.gbbf.org.uk

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February 2018

22/02/18 - 24/01/18

Craft Beer Rising The Old Truman Brewery, London www.craftbeerrising.co.uk 09/03/18

Brewers Lectures Dublin The Convention Centre, Dublin lectures.brewersjournal.info 29/03/18 - 31/03/18

Hop City 2018 The Northern Monk Refectory, Leeds www.northernmonkbrewco.com

Brewers Journal