Carrickfergus across the centuries: A walk through the historic town and harbour

Carrick Book cover.qxp_Layout 1 17/03/2020 14:46 Page 1

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

THIS IS THE AREA FOR THE

TITLE OF THE STORY Area for the author

02

02

Edited by Laura Patrick-Dawson

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 6

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

CONTENTS Acknowledgements

Pg. 2

Foreword

Pg. 3

Introduction

Pg. 4

Early History of Carrickfergus

Pg. 6

Ruairí Ó Baoill – President of the Ulster Archaeological Society and Excavation Director, The Centre for Community Archaeology

Carrickfergus 1500-1755

Pg. 22

Dr Lisa Townsend Freelance Historian and Author

Carrickfergus Ships and Shipbuilding

Pg.36

D. Helen Rankin Chair of the Carrickfergus and District Historical Society

Carrickfergus 1850 to 1925

Pg. 56

Philip Orr Freelance Historian and Author

Carrickfergus and the Second World War

Pg. 79

Alan Freeburn Collections Access Officer, Northern Ireland War Memorial

What does everyone love about Carrickfergus

Pg. 94

01

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 7

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Acknowledgments

T

his book has brought together archaeologists and historians, to promote the rich built heritage of Carrickfergus. Our thanks go out to the authors; Ruaíri Ó Baoill; Dr Lisa Townsend; D. Helen Rankin; Philip Orr; and Alan Freeburn.

Without your valuable contributions, this publication would not have been possible.

Carrickfergus Museum’s photographic collection has been a key source for historic images of the town, as have the various institutions and private collectors, who have granted us permission to reproduce maps, postcards and photographs. If these weren’t available to us, telling the story of Carrickfergus would be a lot more challenging. Thanks to: National Library Ireland Public Record Office, Northern Ireland National Archives (UK) Robert H. Searl

Trinity College Dublin Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland British Library

Northern Ireland War Memorial Thank you also to the Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative Board, supported by the National Lottery Heritage Fund and Mid and East Antrim Borough Council. It was within the Education Programme, which ran alongside the capital works programme, that we were able to develop this book, and showcase the buildings of Carrickfergus.

Even though it is a small section of the publication, we are also grateful to those who took the time to reflect on the ‘best bits’ of their town. If we haven’t got your name, we are very sorry!

Lastly, we would like to thank Circle Creative Communications for the excellent design work. Their support throughout the process has been invaluable.

Laura Patrick-Dawson Education Officer Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative

02

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 8

FOREWARD

Foreward

T

The wealth of history in Carrickfergus can at times be slightly overwhelming. The volume of stories, artefacts and built heritage that has been accumulated and lost over 800 years is astonishing and often difficult to articulate. This publication attempts to provide the reader with the highlights across eight centuries of economic growth, national political turmoil, the dawn of the industrial era and the realities of the Second World War. If a small piece of history has been left out, this must, in this case, be forgiven.

Those who associate with Carrickfergus in any way may not know the detailed history of the town, but everyone is aware of a slice of the past that relates to their family and ancestors. Whether that is; the workers form the shipyards, mills or mines; families who came to Carrickfergus in the 1940s to escape the air raids; or those who worked in the local factories such as ICI and Carreras. This is our town, our shared past, and we should continue to strive towards developing a town which is for everyone.

I am delighted to see this book completed and my thanks goes out to all involved. Hopefully, over the next 800 years we can continue to protect, promote and sensitively add to the abundant built and cultural heritage of Carrickfergus.

Cllr Cheryl Johnston Chairwoman of the Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative.

03

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 9

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

Introduction Carrickfergus is a key settlement in the Mid and East Antrim Borough Council: one of 11 local council bodies in Northern Ireland.

D

ating to 1179 with the arrival of the AngloNorman John de Courcy, the town’s unique built heritage and rich cultural history are recognised as a primary asset: offering potential for economic development, particularly in relation to tourism. With one of the best preserved AngloNorman castles on the island of Ireland, this is predominantly what Carrickfergus is known for.

Iconic images have been produced on postcards and memorabilia from the late 1800s onwards, encouraging the development of the local tourism industry. The town is also one of the most excavated towns on the island, the earliest rescue excavations being undertaken by renowned archaeologist, Tom DeLaney in the 1970s.

Some of the most prominent artefacts from the town’s long history are on display in the Museum, however, some of the medieval architecture still remains standing, if a little misunderstood. For example, the local parish church has its foundations in the 12th century being constructed by de Courcy, while the town walls constructed in the years 1608-1615, under the lordship of Sir Arthur Chichester, still stand, and are largely intact in places.

With over 800 years of fascinating history, and one of the premier towns in Ulster for much of the medieval period, in the more recent past it experienced strong economic growth as a result of the ‘Troubles’, and from 1950 to 1980 the population trebled in size to 27,000 residents.

Much of this growth was fuelled with the establishment of a number of major manufacturing operations, facilitated through

04

significant foreign investment. Sadly, the town was dealt a devastating blow in the early 1980’s, with three major global employers closing in quick succession. This resulted in the loss of some 5,000 manufacturing jobs in less than five years.

In the decades since, Carrickfergus has demonstrated remarkable resilience and powers of recovery.

Although its core is medieval in origin, the appearance of the town is now predominantly of late 18th to mid-19th century in character, with later 20th century replacement buildings. The buildings are typically domestically scaled terraces, two to three storeys over what are now ground floor shops. Some of the shops spaces in question are characteristic of a Georgian town of this period, while others have been inserted at various points throughout the 20th century, most markedly during the boom period from the 1950s to 1980 What is Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative?

The Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative (THI) is a National Lottery Heritage Fund (NLHF) regeneration programme: co-funded and delivered by Mid and East Antrim Borough Council, with support from government bodies such as the Housing Executive and match funding from the property owners of the eligible buildings.

The programme is supported by a project board that includes both local social partners, local elected representatives and officers from government departments. It focused on town centre properties within the town wall boundary

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 10

INTRODUCTION

Introduction of the Carrickfergus Conservation Area. The initiative, running from September 2016 to July 2021 provided a total common fund of up to £2 million grant aid available to the owners of eligible properties, to aid restoration in bringing buildings and shopfronts back to life. The resulting investment in the fabric of the town centre will help stimulate more trade and raise the profile of the historic town making Carrickfergus a better place to live, work and visit.

It is the aim of the Townscape Heritage Initiative to restore the pride in the buildings once again, through restoration and regeneration. The THI can help create a welcoming historic environment where locals and visitors alike can find out more about the fascinating history of this special town and the stories of the people and buildings behind it.

Some of the key objectives are: 1. Provide opportunity for eligible building owners and tenants to apply for grant funding 2. Embrace the principles of ‘Conservation Area’ requirements and heritage methods, and where eligible, offer grants to undertake works to their premises.

3. Support complimentary schemes to help Carrickfergus meet the challenges of changing retail habits and support new uses for buildings.

4. Boost confidence and pride, building upon the strong medieval history of the town and ensuring stability and sustainability for the future, both economically and environmentally.

Property owners and tenants, with a minimum of a 10 year lease, can apply for grant aid funding for works on their properties which could include but not limited to; Building Repair: 60% grant rate Structural repairs Roof repairs Chimney repairs Rainwater goods repairs Stone and brickwork repairs Render repairs Window and door repairs Architectural Repairs 75% grant rate Chimney reinstatement Sliding sash windows reinstatement Shopfront replacement Removal of external roller shutters Shop signage Iron railings reinstatement Stone paving reinstatement Reuse of Empty space fixed 45% grant rate or alternative ‘development’ calculation Internal building fabric repairs Insulation Upgrading services Re-wiring and plumbing It is not just about the physical restoration however, the THI scheme also offers opportunities to learn and engage with the town’s heritage, through the Education programme. This provided oppertunities on two levels: education activity to create greater understanding of the town’s quality architecture, and wider training related to heritage and restoration.

Where possible, the programme aims to support local services, labour and products, further strengthening skills and employment in the area.

The THI promotes community involvement through regular activities and events, to help raise awareness of the rich heritage of Carrickfergus.

05

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 11

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS: MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE Ruairí Ó Baoill - Archaeologist President of the Ulster Archaeological Society and Excavation Director, The Centre for Community Archaeology

THE ARRIVAL OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS AND A NEW TOWN he first settlement at Carrickfergus was founded by the AngloNormans more than 800 years ago. What would become the capital of medieval Ulster grew up in the shadow of the defences of the imposing castle, constructed by John de Courcy in the late 1170s, when he struck north and chose to make Carrickfergus the centre of his semi-independent lordship. De Courcy was a Cumbrian knight who, originally based at the Anglo-Norman garrison in Dublin, rose to a position of significant power.

His new lordship in Ulster comprised an area broadly corresponding to the eastern coastal areas of (modern) Counties Antrim and Down. St. Nicholas’ Church was probably founded soon after his arrival at Carrickfergus, as the parish church of the new settlement, along with a Premonstratensian abbey (no longer in existence), with Canons from Dryburgh Abbey in Berwickshire. From the start, Carrickfergus was developed both as an important military outpost, ecclesiastical centre and port. The only monuments that survive today from that initial period of settlement are the castle and St Nicholas’ Church.

T

06

Phase 1: Reconstruction of the castle at the time of John de Courcy. © Crown DfC Historic Environment Division

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 12

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

Phase 2: Reconstruction of the castle between the time of John de Courcy and Hugh de Lacy. © Crown DfC Historic Environment Division

De Courcy's subsequent rise to power did not go unnoticed, or unchecked, and following his decision to begin minting his own coinage, King John took action to displace him from Carrickfergus. The king requested that Hugh de Lacy, a fellow Anglo-Norman knight, remove de Courcy from his seat: a feat which he ultimately achieved in 1205.

Following this change in lordship, the castle and town were further developed in the thirteenth century by de Lacy, who became the first Earl of Ulster. Not to be outdone by the founding of St Nicholas’, he facilitated the construction of a Franciscan Friary, known as the Church of St. Francis, in circa 1232, and within a few short decades a much larger settlement had grown up at Carrickfergus around the castle and the religious houses. The Calendar of Documents relating to Ireland refers in 1221 to ‘the burgesses [owners of property plots] of Carrickfergus’. It would be expected that the property owner would build a house on this burgage plot facing onto the street with a garden and smaller outbuildings to the rear. In 1226 the same document describes Carrickfergus as a ‘vill’, which is essentially a small settlement.

07

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 13

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

Although de Lacy briefly lost the Earldom in 1210, he had regained it by 1226, and continued to develop the castle and town until his death around 1246: at which point it reverted back to the Crown.

There are references to a legitimate mint being established in 1252, a privilege that shows the continued growth in the town’s status, and there is another reference to burgesses in 1260. In 1265 the Earldom passed to Walter de Burgh and the town seems to have enjoyed continued prosperity. Documentary sources from this period are few, and while there are references in 1273 to ‘the Mayor and Commonality of Carrickfergus’, there are no references to the properties or houses of ordinary townspeople before the 16th century.

Even at this early point in the town’s history the Scots of the Glens were attacking English strongholds, and in 1274 Carrickfergus is reportedly burnt. Thankfully, it seems to have recovered relatively quickly and was once again described in 1285 as a ‘vill’.

08

Phase 3: Reconstruction of the castle showing the gatehouse completed by de Lacy. © Crown DfC Historic Environment Division

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:44 Page 14

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

THE GAELIC REVIVAL With the revival of Gaelic control in Ireland from the fourteenth century onwards, there was a significant reduction in the area controlled by the Anglo-Normans. Carrickfergus was surrounded by a lordship ruled by the powerful Clandeboye O’ Neills, who came to control much of south Antrim and north Down (known as Upper and Lower Clandeboye). In the later medieval period, Carrickfergus suffered continued attacks from the McDonnell highland Scots of north Antrim: and surrounded by powerful Gaelic lordships on all sides, was, from its earliest days, in constant danger.

Map of medieval Gaelic territories.

THE LAYOUT OF THE MEDIEVAL TOWN ollowing the establishment of the castle, the principal streets of the medieval town were Cheston Street and Castle Street: close to the castle entrance and lough shore. High Street probably only evolved when the Franciscan Friary was built around 1232, on a ‘green field’ site, which was a short but accessible distance from the town core. Since then, it has remained the main street in the town for nearly 800 years.

F

Map of the historic core of Carrickfergus. Ó Baoill, 2018.

The fortifications around the early settlement consisted of an earthen bank supported by a palisade, inside a ditch c. 4m wide: several sections of which have been archaeologically investigated since the mid-1970s. Visitors to Carrickfergus entered the town, crossing the town defences through the gate that would later be known as the West (or Irish) Gate, located at the western end of modern West Street.

09

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 15

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

The line of modern Lancasterian Street was the northern limit of the Anglo-Norman town and modern Antrim Street its eastern limit. The area enclosed by the Anglo-Norman defences has been estimated at c. 6-7 hectares and there may have been a few hundred people living in and around Carrickfergus at this time.

Medieval pier along the nave, uncovered in restoration works during 1907. Carrickfergus Museum

THE RELIGIOUS HOUSES AT CARRICKFERGUS. t. Nicholas’ Church still dominates the centre of Carrickfergus and the area around Market Place, North Street and (the later) Lancasterian Street: situated on a slight rise, some 200m north-west of the Castle. The church has undergone many alterations to its fabric over the last 800 years and only fragments of the Anglo-Norman church have survived. These take the form of a number of piers on either side of the nave and most of the north-east crossing pier.

There are a few other medieval features surviving in the church such as the ‘Priest’s Door’, the ‘Leper Window’, a piscina, and two Medieval grave slabs.

S

A cut stone font, now located in the 17th century baptistery of the church, may originally have come from the now lost medieval Abbey at Woodburn.

St. Nicholas’ Church is illustrated on all of the early maps of Carrickfergus. Firstly, the 1560 map, three and a half centuries after the building was first founded, portrays the church as cruciform in shape, with a side aisle to the north and an entrance through the western gable. On the slightly later Robert Lythe map of 1567 the

10

Cut stone font currently in the baptistery of St Nicholas’ Church, but may have originated in the lost Woodburn Abbey.

Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 16

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

BL Cotton Augustus I ii 42

TCD MS 1209 [26]

PRO, MPF 1/98

Development of St Nicholas’ Church as shown in the 1560, 1567 and 1596 maps of the town.

church is shown with two entrances on the south wall and a small tower on the western gable. In 1568 St Nicholas’ was repaired by Sir Henry Sidney, but on the 1596 map of the town it is again portrayed as roofless, as a result of attacks on the town in the 1570s. Substantial restoration did not recommence until the first quarter of the seventeenth century.

THE FRANCISCAN FRIARY uring the period of his lordship, Hugh II de Lacy was the patron of a Franciscan Friary, located where the present Town Hall and Library stand: as mentioned above it was founded circa 1232. The site is just outside the eastern limits of the town, as marked by the line of modern Antrim Street. There seems to have been a mill within the complex, both described in the written sources and portrayed on the 1560 map: the only depiction we have of the building during its period of use as a friary.

D

Franciscan Friary, situated just outside the outskirts of the town (BL Cotton Augustus I ii 42).

The mill river can be seen running along the towns defences to the shore.

During the Elizabethan period, 1558-1603, religious reform saw the closure of many religious houses who did not conform to the Church of England. This resulted in the Franciscan Friary in Carrickfergus becoming a ‘pallace’ or store house, noted on the 1567 Lythe map as ‘late a friars house.’ Trinity College Dublin MS 1209 [26].

When he died in 1242, de Lacy was buried in the friary complex.

In later centuries, members of the Clandeboye O’Neill dynasty, who fought to control the area around Carrickfergus during the fourteenth century, became the main patrons of the religious house, and like de Lacy were buried within the grounds. The friary was finally suppressed in the mid-sixteenth century and converted into a fortified storehouse known as the ‘pallace’.

11

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 17

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

During excavations in 1974, the Ulster Museum's archaeologist, Tom Delaney, uncovered a 60m stretch of a substantial ditch running cross the CF [Carrickfergus] III site at Joymount that would appear to line up with the eastern end of Lancasterian Street. The fortifications consisted of an earthen bank supported by a wooden palisade, inside a ditch c.4m wide and 1.5m deep. Delaney interpreted this as the thirteenth century town defences. The ditch ran underneath the walls of the Franciscan Friary, constructed in the 1230s. Thus, it would appear that the ditch at Joymount was the earliest defensive feature erected to protect the north-eastern section of the new settlement of Carrickfergus. Franciscan friaries traditionally lay outside the precinct of towns and the line of modern Antrim Street runs in front of where the Friary would have stood. It seems that the defensive line of the new settlement at Carrickfergus may have been altered to allow for the development of the Friary and the associated precinct, including graveyard, kitchen gardens and mill. The line of what is now Antrim Street reflects a realignment of the town defences in the first half of the thirteenth century. Future archaeological investigations should clarify this important question.

During the archaeological excavations carried out by Tom Delaney at Joymount in the 1970s, masonry remains of the Friary were uncovered, including, a section of the Friary precinct walls and a portion of the Friary graveyard: containing the skeletons of 68 men, women and children. Among the many artefacts retrieved from the site were fragments of painted window glass and decorated medieval floor tiles.

In 2006, Carrickfergus Borough Council commissioned archaeological investigations at the Town Hall in advance of public realm redevelopment. The excavations uncovered substantial wall foundations dating from the early Post-Medieval period, post AD 1600, which cut through an earlier burial-ground, from which 19 skeletons were excavated. Whilst most of these were adults, three younger individuals were also represented. These were interpreted as suggesting that it was a burial-ground used by the local population and not exclusively by the nearby Franciscan friary. The skeletons were tentatively dated to the early Post-Medieval period, but the recovery of medieval pottery from the fill of one of the graves also suggested that at least some of the burials dated to as early as the 13th-14th centuries and the period of the Friary.

DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE WITHIN THE MEDIEVAL TOWN espite the excellent preservation of medieval layers hidden below the streets of the modern town that makes the archaeology of Carrickfergus so important, significant remains of buildings from the Anglo-Norman period have yet to be uncovered.

D

12

Carrickfergus 26 (1993-1994).

Site location map. Ă“ Baoill, 2018.

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 18

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

However, several excavations have revealed tantalizing glimpses of what remains to be revealed in the future.

In 1993-1994 an excavation (Carrickfergus 26) took place on the cleared site of No. 17 Lancasterian Street, adjacent to the former Carrickfergus Project Development Office. The aim of the excavation was to examine the archaeological potential of a site, close to the core of the medieval town.

Five trenches were excavated, and substantial evidence for medieval and later occupation was recovered during the investigation. This included; part of a possible structure; drainage ditches; occupation layers; and several thousand sherds of medieval pottery. The pottery was mostly of local Carrickfergus manufacture, dating to between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. However, there was also a large quantity of medieval pottery from England and south-west France.

The most important discovery of the Carrickfergus 26 excavation was found within Trench B: the partial remains of a medieval building. This took the form of one wall (the eastern), a central hearth, internal divisions, collapsed wattle with associated daub, a clay floor surface, and possible load-bearing postholes, likely for a roof structure.

Carrickfergus 26 (1993-1994).

Trench B. Plan of the Medieval structure. Ă“ Baoill, 2018.

The wall consisted of a roughly north-east/south-west alignment of five stake-holes (Contexts 83-85, 88, 90 on the plan). These were irregularly spaced and were on average 0.04- 0.06m in diameter. The wall was traced for a distance of 4.80m but ran beyond the limit of excavation.

1.40m west of the wall was a cut for a hearth. This was sub-circular in shape, roughly 0.90m in diameter and 0.10m deep. The hearth pit was filled with burnt clay and charcoal rich soil. Three sherds of medieval Carrickfergus pottery, dating to the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries, were found in it.

If the hearth was fairly centrally placed, as was common in medieval buildings, the width of the structure would have been over 4m. This explains why the western wall of the building was not located, since it lay just beyond the limits of excavation.

13

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 19

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

The line of five stake-holes (C.55-57, C.69 on the plan) that ran along the western side of the hearth, and parallel to the eastern wall, may represent an internal division within the building, or else the remains of foundations for spits used in cooking. In the area to the north-east of the hearth, the remains of a collapsed wattle screen were excavated (C.64 on the plan). The screen measured approximately 1.80m x 1.20m and seems to have acted as an internal dividing wall within the building.

An area of daub-clay mix (C.52) was cut by all the main structural features, and was probably the remains of an internal floor surface.

Medieval pottery from Carrickfergus, France and England were all discovered within the building, dating it to the thirteenth or fourteenth century. Due to modern disturbance, and the limit of excavation, it was not possible to estimate the length of the structure.

Unfortunately, the evidence for the building was the last phase of medieval archaeology encountered in Trench B below modern disturbance.

Further medieval structural remains were found in 1991-1993 on two other excavations (Carrickfergus 19 and 25) that were carried out within a cleared site which had previously been occupied by Nos. 2535 West Street. The earlier excavation (Carrickfergus 19) was carried out between July - December 1991, in what had been the enclosed courtyard, known as McAllister’s Yard, of No. 25 West Street and which was subsequently in the north-eastern corner of the much larger Carrickfergus 25 site.

Carrickfergus 19/25 (1991 and 1993). Site location map. Ă“ Baoill, 2018.

14

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 20

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

The earliest feature discovered in the CF 19 excavation was the remains of a carefully constructed post and wattle medieval rubbish pit (C.451). It was filled with large amounts of organic material, was aligned north- south in a rough oval shape, and was 1.80m long by 1.20m wide. The posts of the pit were a maximum of 0.42m high and were roughly 0.04m in diameter. They were set 0.25m-0.40m apart and had silver birch wattle woven, simply, between them.

Amongst the finds recovered from lower fill of the pit were; sherds of medieval Carrickfergus pottery as well as some later examples, probably intrusive; animal bone, both worked and unworked; a metal knife and pin; various metal objects; two leather scabbards; leather offcuts; and the stem of a rose plant. The pit was cut to just above but not into subsoil, which is Keuper marl clay.

Carrickfergus 19 (1991).

The post and wattle Medieval pit. Ó Baoill, 2018.

THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL REMAINS OF DOMESTIC MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS IN OTHER IRISH TOWNS he vast number of urban excavations that have taken place in Ireland following the Dublin Wood Quay controversy in the 1980s, have revolutionized our knowledge of the archaeology of Irish towns. Happily, much of this material has now been published, so that archaeologists can begin to develop an overview of the types of buildings and material culture commonly found.

T

However, unlike Britain, for example Grenville (1997), no single book on the archaeology of urban medieval domestic structures in Ireland has yet been produced. Relevant information still needs to be taken from individual excavation reports. The current level of knowledge has been concisely summarized by Fitzpatrick and Walsh (Fitzpatrick et al 2004, 338-339) which shows the widespread use of timber in the construction of buildings in Anglo-Norman Ireland: [writing about Galway] …it must be assumed that most, if not all, of the domestic structures built in the early years of the town’s existence were made of wood, possibly of post-and wattle-construction. This surmise is reasonably well founded on the evidence of domestic buildings recorded on excavations elsewhere in medieval urban Ireland and Britain. Post-and-

15

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:45 Page 21

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

wattle structures found at Christ Church, Cork, date from the late twelfth and the thirteenth century (Cleary et al 1997). In early thirteenth-century Waterford, most houses were built incorporating low stone walls on which a timber superstructure sat. Complete stone-built houses followed these toward the middle of the century (Scully in Hurley, Scully and McCutcheon 1997, 38-39). The use of timber for domestic dwellings is well attested in the case of twelfth- and thirteenth- century Anglo-Norman Dublin.

Coughlan’s (2001, 209-206) excavations at Back Lane revealed that three distinct building techniques were used within the first hundred years of Anglo-Norman Dublin. The post-and-wattle style of building in birch, hazel and ash, characteristic of the Viking Age, persisted into the early thirteenth century, but there was an emphatic change to timber-framed buildings, largely constructed of oak, from the early thirteenth century (Coughlan 2001, 220-226). The Back Lane excavations also showed that from the mid-thirteenth century masonry buildings had become more common than timber-framed dwellings.

From the scattered archaeological remains uncovered to date, many of the early domestic buildings of the Anglo-Norman period in Carrickfergus were also presumably of timber-frame construction, and have consequently not survived as well as those of the later medieval period which were often built of stone.

Conjectural drawing of a Medieval street frontage (South Main Street) in Cork city. Cleary et al 1997 of frontispiece drawn by Donal Anderson. The streets of Anglo-Norman Carrickfergus may have looked something like this.

LATE-MEDIEVAL CARRICKFERGUS he Anglo-Norman earldom of Ulster went into decline with the murder of William de Burgh, Earl of Ulster, at Belfast in 1333.

After this, the region was governed by Agents for the Sovereign and there was never again a resident earl to make or direct policy for the earldom. Despite this, Carrickfergus continued to prosper and in 1334 was referred to as a ‘borough town’.

T

16

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 22

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

For many of the succeeding centuries Carrickfergus was the only major port in Ulster held for the Crown, though one which was attacked by the Irish and Highland Scots on a regular basis during the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Why the town was not surrounded with a stone defensive wall, as many other Irish towns were during the medieval period, is unclear. But Carrickfergus continued to remain the most important town in Ulster and this is borne out by the fact that three maps were commissioned of the town in the sixteenth century: 1560, 1567 and in circa 1596. These maps allow archaeologists and historians to track the development and evolution of the town from the Late-Medieval period onwards. In comparison, the first map of Belfast was not compiled until 1685.

BL Cotton Augustus I ii 42

THE LATE-MEDIEVAL MAPS OF CARRICKFERGUS he 1560 map of Carrickfergus is the earliest map of any town in Ulster. It shows that the ordinary townspeople, including English, Scottish and Irish, responsible for the majority of the laboring, had migrated within the town’s defenses, and lived in structures known to archaeologists as ‘beehive’ houses: named for their resemblance to beehives. These were flimsy, oval-shaped, vernacular Irish buildings constructed of wattle and turf, easily and quickly constructed. There are many references to them in English sources of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. These ‘beehive’ houses are illustrated on all of the three sixteenth-century maps of Carrickfergus. Despite the excellent preservation of organic material in the strata of Carrickfergus, these enigmatic structures have yet to be uncovered during an excavation within the town.

T

TCD MS 1209 [26]

PRO, MPF 1/98

Wattle and turf beehive huts of Carrickfergus, depicted on each of the sixteenth century maps; 1560; 1567; and 1596.

Throughout the Anglo-Norman period, the houses of the rich and prominent citizens, merchants and officers of the town garrison, would have been a combination of stone and wood. However, to date, no remains of timber framed buildings have been uncovered through excavation. Fortunately though, some of the stone-built tower houses, fortified dwellings constructed completely in stone, have been investigated. These tower houses were mostly constructed along either side of High Street, and towards modern day West Street, associated with the burgess plots mentioned above. They are portrayed on all three sixteenth century maps of the town , although there is ongoing debate as to their origin date. These ‘mini-castles’ added to the defensive capability of the settlement during a period when the town was coming under continuous attacks from the Clandeboye O’ Neills and the Highland Scots of north Antrim.

Despite this increased threat, the Crown in London was hesitant to supply the settlement with the finances to construct more substantial urban defences.

17

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 23

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

LATE-MEDIEVAL DOMESTIC BUILDINGS IN CARRICKFERGUS: TOWER HOUSES. hile the preceding period may have been dominated by a mix of stone and timber buildings, as the medieval era progressed, stone tower houses became prevalent amongst those with influence and resources. The dating of tower houses in Ireland is still a hotly debated topic amongst archaeologists. It would appear that although a few might have been constructed in the late-fourteenth century, most were built in the first half of the fifteenth century, with construction declining during the sixteenth century. However, a small burst of construction in the early seventeenth century, coincides with the start of 'Plantation' in Ireland.

W

Typically, these types of small stone castles have many common features including; shape, generally square or rectangular, although there are variations; side turrets; a vaulted ground floor; smaller windows on the lower floors; larger windows and fire places for the upper floors; along with defensive features such as murder holes, battlements and machicolations.

18

The 1567 Robert Lythe map notes the individuals who occupy the tower houses in the town. Trinity College Dublin MS 1209 [26].

The excavation of Stephenson’s tower house on the southern side of High Street in 1974 with the Town Hall in the background.

From Campbell and Gunn-King 1980, 3

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 24

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

Two of Tom Delaney’s excavations in the 1970s uncovered evidence for some of the tower houses portrayed on the three sixteenth century maps of Carrickfergus. In 1972 at Cheston Street the remains of a masonry wall 1.60m wide was uncovered. As well as the wall, a sixteenth century copper-alloy annular brooch was also discovered.

Later excavations at 33-37 High Street, carried out between 1974 and 1979 uncovered the foundation remains of a late medieval tower house with a cobbled floor. Based on cartographic evidence the tower house may have belonged to Thomas Stephenson, a Mayor of Carrickfergus in the sixteenth century, whose name is written above a tower house in this area on the 1567 Lythe map. Artefacts recovered included sixteenth and seventeenth century Irish, English, Scottish, French and German coins, tokens and jettons. There were also a number of high quality finds, for example; a 13th century gold finger ring set with an amethyst; a lead weight box; a copper-alloy official weight of Henry VII or Henry VIII; an iron spearhead; an iron spoon-auger; and a horse bit.

The dating evidence recovered from the Stephenson’s tower house excavation suggests that it was built in the mid-sixteenth century around the time of the first map of Carrickfergus. It is possible that many of the tower houses built in Carrickfergus town also date to this construction phase. Additionally, it is possible that the occupants were replacing older, wooden structures.

DOBBINS INN- A SURVIVING TOWER HOUSE IN CARRICKFERGUS amed as belonging to ‘Stephen Dobbins’ on the 1567 map, what is now Dobbins Inn represents the only known remaining tower house in Carrickfergus. The tower house in questions is also portrayed on this site on both the 1560 map and the circa 1596 map, though no occupants of tower houses are noted on either of these maps.

What was classified as a Victorian building, was eligible for conservation funding through the Carrickfergus Townscape heritage Initiative (THI): a capital works scheme, co-funded by the National Lottery Heritage Fund and Mid and East Antrim Borough Council.

N

Dobbins Inn Carrickfergus, prior to conservation work.

Carrickfergus THI

In order for the project’s Civil Engineer to assess the condition of the building, thus accurately informing a future funding bid to the Carrickfergus THI, the owners worked with the project's Education Officer to develop a scheme of investigative works. This programme was supported by the Historic Environment Division (HED) funded in part by the owners and in part by the Complimentary Action Programme, which runs in parallel with the capital grants awarded by the main scheme.

19

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 25

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS

Despite some inaccuracies in official records, Dobbins had largely been overlooked until this research was carried out in February 2018.

After an extensive desk top study, during which copies of seventeenth century leases were uncovered, the render was removed from the front of the structure to reveal the third oldest building in the town.

Copies of lease records dating to the seventeenth century show the tower house was called Castle Dobbins and was owned by James Dobbin. Carrickfergus Museum

The tower house retains its entire footprint, stands to first floor level, and has been dendrochronologically dated to 1520-1540, by Dr Dave Brown, Queens University Belfast. This process involves analysis of tree rings and matching samples taken to a known database. For this research, cores were taken from the lower and upper fireplaces, as well as internal beams on the ground floor.

20

Dobbins tower house following the removal of twentieth century render and after conservation undertaken in 2019. Carrickfergus THI.

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 26

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

DISCUSSION arrickfergus is one of the most excavated towns in Ulster, and the day-to-day lives of its people can be reconstructed by archaeologists from the objects they have lost or discarded, and by the examination of the buildings in which they lived. The layout town’s main streets still provide that medieval look, and the historic core bounded by, an admittedly early seventeenth century, stone wall, means that a visitor to the town can certainly experience what it might have been like to live in a historic urban environment.

C

Despite the constant threat of attack from the Irish and Highland Scots during the medieval and late-medieval periods, finds from archaeological excavations have revealed that the town seems to have been enjoyed continued prosperity, albeit with times of hardship.

High status pottery from England, Scotland and European countries such as France and Spain was imported into the town, and sherds of Medieval Ulster Coarse pottery, the unglazed type of pottery produced and used by Irish occupants, have also been found in many excavations in the town. This suggests that despite sporadic episodes of conflict, there was also significant social interaction and trade between the Anglo-Normans and the local Irish populaiton throughout the medieval period.

Although we still do not know everything about the medieval town, substantial details about the range of housing types, or the location of the 'lost' Premonstratensian Abbey, have been revealed through archaeology. It is also clear that unless significant new documentary and cartographic sources relating to the town are uncovered, all new information about the 800 years of historic and architectural development of Carrickfergus, will come from future archaeological discoveries, and the full publication of excavations that have already taken place there.

In terms of future discoveries, the excavations that have taken place within the conservation area have shown that there are deep archaeological deposits surviving within the core of the town: despite the centuries of redevelopment. The tens of thousands of artefacts recovered from excavations in the town and the old buildings that survive, are a testimony to the long heritage of Carrickfergus. These relics from the past enable us to have direct contact with the ordinary people who were living in the town hundreds of years ago, the people who get rarely get mentioned in the written sources but who were the life blood of the town.

21

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:46 Page 27

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

CARRICKFERGUS 1500-1755 Dr. Lisa Townsend, Freelance Historian and Author

A

medieval visitor arriving in Carrickfergus in 1500 would find themselves in a familiar medieval townscape: much like the one described in the previous chapter. By contrast, if that same visitor arrived 200 years later it would be to a landscape transformed. The intervening period, the tumultuous sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, was a time of reformation, reform and rebellion.

Inevitably, the resulting activity left scars on the built environment of Carrickfergus, to the extent that even landmarks which seemed constant could be altered dramatically: as was the case of St Nicholas’s Church.

To return to our hypothetical visitor in 1500, he or she would encounter the familiar trappings of any medieval fortified town; the castle, held in the name of the Crown; St. Nicholas’s Church, for the population of the town; at least one religious house or order; and the market place. At one time, Carrickfergus actually had two religious houses: St. Francis’s, standing where the Museum and Civic Centre is today, and Woodburn Abbey, near the site of the former Courtauld Factory. There was St. Bride’s, the leper hospital, which—given its location—may have been associated with the friary.

22

Illustration showing what Carrickfergus may have looked like during the medieval period.

Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 28

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

CARRICKFERGUS IN THE 1560S s has been outlined in the previous chapter, the earliest maps of the town date from the 1560s, with the first created c.1560 and the second in 1567. Despite the relatively short time between the two, changes can clearly be seen, for example, the 1560 map was probably created before the final dissolution of St. Francis’ that same year. A close look shows the friary in 1560 is marked as such: simply ‘the freres’, or ‘the brothers’, without any additional commentary. By contrast, the 1567 map refers to the building as ‘late a freres’ house’: indicating the friars are no longer in residence. An additional interesting depiction on the 1560 map is the visualisation of a small stone cross in the grounds of St Nicholas’. By 1567 this stone cross is gone. Perhaps it too was a casualty of the mid-16th century dissolution.

A

Reconstruction of Carrickfergus harbour and market in the 1500s.

Carrickfergus Museum

A fascinating aspect of this duo of maps is the evolution of perspective that reflects the development in the production of maps, and which key details should be included. Despite the odd angle, the 1560 map does show roughly the layout of the town, along with the tower houses, and many of the ‘beehive’ structures: ‘rotten and ruinous’ huts made from clay which were so susceptible to fire and sword.

These wattle and daub buildings where built by those at the lower end of the social scale, while the tower houses, made of stone and rendered in lime, each acted as a ‘mini castle’ to the inhabitants. By 1567 the number of tower houses has grown slightly, and the increased detail on the map provides us with names of the occupants: for example, Wyles, Savage (or Sauvage), Russell, and Sindalls. The trend for building stone houses accelerated in the early 1590s, when Mayor John Dalway granted leases of land along West Street on the condition

23

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 29

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

that houses built there should be of lime and stone, and as a result the street became ‘fair and strong’— thereby proving that municipal regeneration is not a modern invention.

For centuries Carrickfergus was Ulster’s busiest port. As a result, trade was a vital aspect of the town’s life. Market Place was literally, as well as metaphorically, at the heart of the old town, positioned as it was within the triangle formed by the port, the castle, and St Nicholas’ Church. At the centre of Market Place was Great Patrick, a stone cross clearly visible on both 1560s maps, which may have originally been located in the grounds of St Nicholas’. It stood near where the Big Lamp stands today, in the area still know as Market Place.

These high crosses were once common across the British Isles, although the Irish versions were larger and more elaborately decorated than their British counterparts. Like Great Patrick, they were often originally erected outside or in front of churches or monasteries, but in some cases where moved to mark town centres and market squares. A similar case is the surviving Down Patrick high cross, which was moved from the town centre to the Cathedral in 1897.

Both maps show Great Patrick in profile, however, the 1567 map has a more detailed depiction. Each map shows a large white stone cross mounted on a tiered base that was probably either circular or hexagonal in shape. However, the 1567 map indicates there may have been a greater level of design at the head of the cross and shows the base with four levels, whilst the 1560 has a simple cross head and only three tires at the base. Without any physical remains it is impossible to say which version is correct, but like many others across the island, it is likely the body of the cross was decorated with scenes from the bible, or depictions of a saint’s life.

24

Many of the stone high crosses from the Early Christian and Medieval period were inscribed with scenes of a saint’s life or stories from the Bible. This example is from Monasterboice, County Louth, Ireland. Laura Patrick-Dawson

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 30

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

Great Patrick’s cross marked the centre of the town as the location of the market. It may have originally stood within the grounds of St Nicholas’ church. Map of Carrickfergus c.1560 (BL Cotton Augustus I ii 42) and map of Carrickfergus c.1567 by Robert Lythe (Trinity College Dublin, MS 1209 (26))

DEFENDING CARRICKFERGUS: 1560 - 1600 hen the townspeople of Carrickfergus begged Elizabeth I to grant them a charter in 1558, they requested town walls to be built and paid for by the Crown. As Elizabeth I was notoriously tight-fisted, one imagines that this request cannot have been well received, even though Carrickfergus offered to pay a yearly rent of £261.13s.4d per annum, or approximately £44,560 a year in today’s money. Elizabeth granted a charter in 1559, but not the walls, and the town had to make the most of what already existed.

W

In 1560 the fortifications largely consisted of banks and deep trenches dug to the west of the town, and along what is now Lancasterian Street. According to the 1560s maps, it seems possible that the trench may have also acted like a moat, which ran from the harbour, up the western trench, along today’s Lancasterian Street, and down Antrim Street where it connected with the former friary’s stream. From there it flowed to re-join the lough.

Only too aware of how weak these defences were, and with political tensions rising and increased resentment towards the crown from numerous factions, in 1572 the corporation instructed that ‘for the better strengthening of the town … every inhabitant dwelling by the waterside should … strengthen their backside to the sea’. Sadly, even this backside-strengthening measure proved ineffective. June 1573 saw a particularly brutal attack from the Scots, and this time, so the records tell us, ‘the town of Knockfergus for the most part was destroyed by fire’.

In 1574 the town bigwigs once more attempted to strengthen the defences. They recommended a ‘rampart of sods or turfs, round

25

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 31

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

about the town’. The ramparts would be paid for by the corporation, but the crown was to be liable for the enhanced fortification at the four corners. It’s not stated whether Elizabeth actually contributed, but the corporation fulfilled their duty: ramparts were completed within a month of the order being issued. Their impact was questionable, as in 1575 the Scots attacked once more, damaging St Nicholas’s in the process. There is always a silver lining though, and the raids of the 1570s appear to have convinced the Queen that action was necessary. In October 1575 the Lord Deputy, Sir Henry Sidney, came to Carrickfergus to ‘make peace with the Scots’. In addition, he made the garrison contribute towards the ‘building up’ of St Nicholas’, as well striking an agreement with the corporation for the creation of a defensive wall. This was to have foundations seven feet deep with walls four feet thick and sixteen feet high.

The constable of the castle garrison, Captain William Piers, did his share, extending stronger fortifications of stone from the northeast of the castle by 1579. Two years later, the work was ongoing, but stalled thereafter due to lack of funds, and in 1589 Sir Henry had to provide an unknown sum towards the completion of the planned work.

Despite the disruption posed by war during the 1590s, the sea wall east and west of the castle was completed by 1600, along with two of the four famous gates — Quay Gate to the west and Water Gate to the east.

Ironically, the Nine Years War, 1994-1603, may also have worked in the town’s favour. In 1598 the local governor, Sir John Chichester, was killed in the Battle of Carrickfergus, and was succeeded by his younger brother Arthur. A man of immense energy and willpower, Arthur, would do more than simply finish the walls: he would leave an indelible mark on Carrickfergus, Belfast, and indeed Ulster itself.

26

The Elizabethan charter granted in 1559 by Elizabeth I outlines the rights which were allowed to the Corporation of the town of Carrickfergus and is on display in the museum. Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 32

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

SIR ARTHUR CHICHESTER hen Sir Arthur Chichester took his brother’s place as Governor of Carrickfergus, he was thirty-four years old. Born in Devon in 1563 to a family with good links to the Tudor court, Arthur was well placed for success. After completing a degree at Oxford, and as was common for younger sons, he became a soldier and seaman, commanding HMS Larked against the Spanish Armada (1588) at the age of twenty five. In 1595, Arthur was in the Americas with Sir Francis Drake, and was knighted in 1596 for participating in a raid on the Spanish port of Cadíz. He was still fighting the Spanish, this time alongside Henry IV of France, when his brother John was killed.

W

Sir Arthur Chichester rose through the military to eventually become Lord Deputy, and was responsible for much of the regeneration of Carrickfergus and the development of Belfast.

Belfast Harbour Commissioners

1598 saw the now knighted Sir Arthur appointed Governor of Carrickfergus by the Earl of Essex, and his career continued progressing from strength to strength. He became the most powerful man in Ireland in 1605 when he succeed his mentor, Lord Mountjoy, as Lord Deputy. In the years following his rise to power, he implemented the monumental task of ‘Planting’ Ulster with English and Scottish citizens loyal to the crown. A key figure in the development of several Ulster towns, including Belfast, he also drove the restoration and rejuvenation of Carrickfergus. In 1613 Sir Arthur was made Baron Chichester, and later resigned from the Lord Deputyship the following year. He died in London in 1625 at the age of 61, and was buried in St Nicholas’s Church within the monument that bears his name.

THE TOWN WALLS n 1608 work on Carrickfergus’ town walls began once again in earnest. When finished in 1615, they literally encircled the town, from castle wall to castle wall, enclosing High Street, West Street, today’s Lancasterian Street, Antrim Street, Cheston Street, Castle Street and Essex Street within their embrace.

I

This meant two gates were needed in addition to the existing Water Gate and Quay Gate, to control people entering and leaving the town.

One of these was West Gate, sometimes known as Irish Gate, situated as the name implies, to the west of the town on West Street. As one of the two main entrances into the walled town, West Gate had features we usually associate with castles, such as a moat and drawbridge.

The fourth and final gate was, of course, North Gate, the only surviving example. Like West Gate, it was a major point of entry and exit, and as a result it too resembled a small castle. Due to its proximity to the old St Bride’s hospital, which had reverted to the Crown during Elizabeth I’s reign, North Gate was also known as Spittal Gate.

27

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 33

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

As they stood in 1615, the town walls measured 1150 metres in length, standing over six metres high. In some areas the foundations were as deep as three metres, but in others, as excavations during the 20th century have shown, they were as little as fifty centimetres deep.

There were other inconsistencies, such as the ’banded’ brickwork, still visible in the surviving walls today, or the variations in wall thickness, ranging from two to three metres wide.

Along the length of the walls, four full bastions and three halfbastions completed the town’s defensive arrangements. They allowed watchmen and soldiers a wider view of what was happening outside the walls: an advantage that would prove critical during the 1641 rebellion, when the walls ensured Carrickfergus one of the safest towns in Ulster. By the same token, residents of the walled town, as well as those in both Irish and Scotch quarter, took reassurance and warning from this military presence and activity. Elizabeth Gormelly, witness to the murder of Bryan Boy Magee near Irish Gate in 1641, was alerted that something was out of the ordinary by a ‘great noise’ and ‘seeing many people pass to and fro upon the walls’.

Additionally, the height of the bastions was not their only advantage.

They were also difficult to access as the steps built into the wall only reached halfway up, or down, depending on your perspective. This meant a ladder was necessary, ensuring that the town’s defenders would always have the upper hand. However, the bastions were not as strong as they first appeared, as events in 1689 would prove.

28

Building could only take place during warmer months as the lime cement does not adhere to the stone under cold conditions.

Four distinct phases remain visible in the walls today.

Carrickfergus THI

Reconstruction drawing showing how Carrickfergus developed under Sir Chichester in the 17th century. The walls are completed and St Nicholas’ has been renovated. Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:47 Page 34

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

THE WALLS AND THE WILLIAMITE WARS ensions between the British parliament and the Catholic king, James II, came to a head in 1688. Parliament deposed James in favour of his Protestant daughter Mary and her husband, William of Orange. James fled to Ireland to rally support from his fellow Catholics.

T

James II was disposed by his Daughter Mary and her husband William of Orange.

Meanwhile, back in London, William acknowledged that he needed to defeat James and his Jacobite supporters as soon as possible, and entrusted this task to General Schomberg: an experienced German mercenary with a profound commitment to the Protestant cause.

Schomberg arrived at Carrickfergus in August 1689, which although still held by a Jacobite garrison, generally supported William. This populist support is reinforced by the fact that the mayor, Richard Dobbs, was imprisoned as Schomberg approached, to prevent any potential collusion.

The General laid siege from the lough and land with cannon, successfully breaching the walls in several places, notably between the North and North East Bastions. A cannon ball fired during this siege was later found in St Nicholas’s churchyard and is on display in the church. It is reasonable to wonder why the walls gave way so easily to this barrage, and excavations may have found an explanation. Traditionally, bastions are built with a clay infill, for extra strength, theoretically allowing them to withstand artillery fire.

This was not undertaken at Carrickfergus. In fact, the walls and bastions proved so ineffective that the garrison resorted to firing from the ramparts at Joymount Palace instead. The breaches were reportedly plugged with dead cattle.

General Schomberg was sent to reclaim Carrickfergus as a crown stronghold and pave the way for the arrival of William.

Carrickfergus Museum

uring the siege of Carrickfergus in 1689, the Jacobean garrison used dead cattle to block the breach of the wall by Schomberg’s men.

Carrickfergus Museum.

Despite their ingenuity, the garrison’s efforts failed. After a week long siege, they surrendered and were escorted from the town and Mayor Dobbs was freed from gaol. He presented Schomberg with the ceremonial sword, which was returned to him as a sign of his office.

With Carrickfergus now in Protestant hands, William of Orange landed in the Bay in July 1690, but stayed only half an hour before proceeding to Belfast and, ultimately, the Boyne.

King William’s landing stone. The landing of William III in Carrickfergus is still celebrated every year in the town. Carrickfergus Museum

29

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:48 Page 35

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

JOYMOUNT PALACE ir Arthur Chichester began building Joymount House or Palace on the site of the old friary in 1610. It was named in tribute to Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy, Sir Arthur’s mentor and predecessor as Lord Deputy of Ireland. Only traces of Joymount remain today, but maps and descriptions give us a good idea of how it looked.

S

The Phillips map from c.1685 shows the footprint of the building and indicates the extent of the adjoining grounds. According to this, Joymount stood precisely where the Civic Centre stands now. It was typically Jacobean in layout, with a central block flanked by wings on either side. The entrance was through a four-towered barbican gatehouse: one of which can still be found standing as part of the Town Hall. As the name implies, barbican gatehouses were originally defensive towers attached to castles, although many seventeenth century versions were usually vanity projects built for the owner’s glorification.

Indeed, Sir Arthur was all too aware of the impact of ‘architectural bling’. Observers claimed Joymount had as many windows as there are days in a year, a clear indication of Sir Arthur’s wealth and importance at a time when one window was exorbitantly expensive.

As can be seen from the illustration which accompanies the 1685 map, these windows were not simple, plain or basic. On the two faces visible it is possible to count no fewer than eighteen mullioned windows. While it is a stretch to think there may have been 365 individual windows, if each window is made of 6 pieces of glass, it is possible that there was an individual piece of glass for every day of the year.

To reflect Sir Arthur’s status, on the east side of the house, where Joymount House Care Home now stands, was a classic knot garden.

A modern recreation can be seen just outside the walls today, beside the Chichester Mural. Further along, beside the North East Bastion, a trace of Joymount Palace survives in an area of brickwork which marked the boundary of the Governors’ Deerpark. Unlike the town walls which were built from easily available basalt stone, these red bricks were produced locally by hand, and were hugely fashionable and expensive as a result; another example of demonstrating status through architectural features and materials.

As presumably planned, it wasn’t just the locals who were impressed

by Joymount. In 1635 the English writer and MP, Sir William Bereton, visited Ireland as part of a wider European tour. He compared the outside of Joymount to a ‘prince’s palace’, however, his comments about the interior were slightly more mixed. He approved of the ‘very fair hall … stately staircase and fair dining room’ but noted that although the furnishings were very rich, they were already falling into decay. The whole house, he felt, was too large, too grand, too expensive to run, and consequently ‘a burden’ to its owners.

30

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:48 Page 36

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

It was a prophetic assessment. Under Chichester’s rule, Belfast was growing rapidly and the family relocated there as Joymount continued to fall into disrepair. By the early eighteenth century Joymount Palace was turning into a squatters’ paradise, with as many as seventeen families supposedly living there at one time. It was demolished in 1778/9 to make way for a new County of Antrim courthouse and gaol.

The style of map has changed by the late 17th century and only the footprints of the buildings are shown. Joymount Palace would have been located where the Civic Centre is today on Antrim Street.

The accompanying illustration is the only depiction surviving of Sir Arthur’s home. Carrickfergus c.1685 by Thomas Philips.

National Library of Ireland, MS 3137 (42)

This round tower incorporated into the Town Hall is all that visibly remains of Joymount Palace. Carrickfergus THI Although no longer in situ, a medieval knot garden has been recreated close to the Chichester Mural outside the walls.

Carrickfergus THI

31

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 37

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

ST NICHOLAS’S CHURCH f Joymount’s story is one of riches to rags, St Nicholas’ is the exact opposite. When Sir Arthur became Governor of Carrickfergus the medieval church was roofless, derelict, ‘burned and despoiled’. The corporation made repeated attempts to restore it from the 1570s on, but with little success.

I

In this modern and in many places, more secular age, it can be difficult to grasp the impact of St Nicholas’ destitution on people of sixteenth and early seventeenth century Carrickfergus. By 1600, the church was considered old, as much a symbol of the town as the castle itself. It had survived raids, wars, and the Reformation, successfully making the transition from Roman Catholic church to Anglican under the title, Church of Ireland. This meant it kept its central position in people’s daily lives. For example, the church porch was traditionally used for business and financial agreements, as well as the signing of marriage contracts. Before the Tholsel’s renovation in 1593, the church regularly served as the Mayor’s courtroom. This was, of course, in addition to the building’s primary function as the town’s spiritual heart.

In 1612, Sir Arthur Chichester, now Lord Deputy, instructed Thomas Maps to begin the church’s restoration, primarily focusing on the roof. The building programme but which included a new porch, today used as the Baptistry. Additionally, the original Anglo-Norman columns were encased within new walls, effectively narrowing the body of the church to accommodate a smaller population. These were not rediscovered until 1907. The internal aspect of the church also saw renovation, and in 1621 the Chichester Monument was finished: an elaborate creation of marble and alabaster, showing Sir Arthur Chichester himself, his wife Lettice, his brother John, and most poignantly of all, his son, Arthur, who died in infancy.

St Nicholas’ has survived from the 12th century through to modern day, and remains an important hub for the congregation. Carrickfergus THI

Nor were these the only changes made to the church in this period.

For example, in 1678 a clock was added to the tower. Five years later, in 1683, a new bell was gifted to the parish by Mayor Andrew Willoughby, ensuring that the familiar chimes could continue to ring daily at 6am to rouse the populace for work, and again at 9pm for curfew, when the town gates were locked. The bells were also rung for the Saturday market and funerals.

Within St Nicholas’, the churches development can be seen in the architecture, with the Chichester Monument a constant reminder of Sir Arthur’s influence in restoring the ruined church.

Carrickfergus THI

32

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 38

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

CRIME AND PUNISHMENT IN CARRICK, 1500-1720 rom 1500 to 1720, there were periods of war, siege, decline and regeneration, and Carrickfergus played its part on a national stage.

But day to day life continued for those not directly engaged with military and political concerns. As part of this, personal reputation was paramount in this period. Lives, homes and careers could be destroyed with the loss of it. Consequently, with the obvious exception of imprisonment or fines for minor offences, many judicial punishments, including execution, were implemented in public spaces.

F

For those convicted of committing a petty crime, they would often be put in the stocks for hours at a time.

Carrickfergus THI

Whilst executions were considered public events, originally they would have been enacted outside of the town itself as this would have been considered an ‘unclean’ activity located near to West Gate. Trinity College, Dublin, MS 1209 (26)

Some punishments were for actions that would not now be considered criminal, such as ‘scolding’: a misdeed usually associated with women.

In 1574 the Mayor’s court decided that those ‘openly detected of scolding’ would be ‘drawn at the stern of a boat … from the end of the pier round about … the castle … and after when a cage shall be made the … scold shall be therein punished’. The cage was built in 1576, when a pillory (similar to the stocks) was built to punish soldiers from the garrison who openly insulted and abused the mayor. In addition to being held in the pillory, the offenders had paper stuck to their foreheads listing their crimes. Once released, they were ‘banished from the town forever’. At a time when ‘strangers’ were viewed with suspicion and dislike, banishment from your hometown was a significant penalty. The stocks, incidentally, were also used on the eight women from Islandmagee accused of witchcraft in 1711 before their year-long sojourn in prison. The case of the ‘witches of Islandmagee’ was the last witch trial in Ireland.

Execution was also carried out in public, most commonly by hanging.

The gallows were built on a trio of standing stones, known as the ‘Three Sisters’, on the western shore line of Carrickfergus. The exact position is now unknown. Amongst those hung there was highwayman Nessy O’Haughan in 1720, Co. Antrim’s very own ‘Robin Hood’ figure. Later in the eighteenth century Gallows Green was used for the execution of several United Irishmen, including William Orr of ‘Remember Orr!’ fame.

33

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 39

17TH/18TH CENTUARY CARRICKFERGUS

A NEW ERA ith the construction of Market House in 1755, Carrickfergus was rapidly taking on a form familiar to modern eyes, with new buildings typically Georgian in style, designed for efficiency and comfort. Unlike the wattle and daub ‘beehive’ huts or the tall, cold, draughty tower house. The reverse would be true for the hypothetical medieval visitor we met at the start of this chapter.

W

Market House is the fourth oldest building in the town, constructed in 1755. Used as a customs house, it acted as Town Hall from 1843 to 1935 before the council moved to the buildings on Antrim Street.

Carrickfergus THI

For them, the only real point of reference would be the castle. St Nicholas’s has been reduced in size, the Franciscan friary demolished and Joymount Palace built in its stead: although this too would soon be torn down. Within a few decades a new gaol and courthouse would be built in its place. The simple mud huts have gone, replaced by homes of brick and stone built for the expanding middle classes. Carrickfergus was still strategically relevant, but Belfast’s expansion had shifted the region’s social, political and economic point of gravity in that direction. Even the walls were no longer considered vital. In 1760, Francois Thurot’s attack resulted in further breaches to the bastion at Joymount.

However, unlike those of 1689, these would not be fixed. In decades to come the town walls are dismantled bit by bit, until at last we are left only with what still stands today: 600 metres of wall, a full bastion, and North Gate.

North Gate is the only late-medieval gate which is still in existence today.

It was renovated in 1911 to mark the coronation of George V .

Carrickfergus THI

Map produced following the French attack by Thurot in 1760, marking the locations where the wall had been breached. British Magazine, 1760

34

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 40

A THRIVING PORT TOWN

35

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 41

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

CARRICKFERGUS SHIPS AND SHIPBUILDING D. Helen Rankin Chair of the Carrickfergus and District Historical Society

CARRICKFERGUS HARBOUR

C

arrickfergus has been a safe harbour for ships since early times. The arrival of the Normans in the 1170’s heralded the development of a built harbour, with a wood and stone pier, in order to bring in supplies for the construction of the castle, and to meet the varied and increasing needs of a developing town.

One of the earliest maps of Carrickfergus, the 1560 Cotton Augustus Map shows the stone filled wooden pier, and the 1567 Robert Lythe cartographic representation of the town goes one step further to mark the structure as “The peare”. It is not until the 1685 map, by Thomas Phillips, that this landing-stage appears as a more permanent structure.

Writing in the 1680s, the mayor of Carrickfergus Richard Dobbs noted that “to the west of the castle is a handsome key (quay) which cost £11,000 of £12,000. It was built towards the latter end of Queen Elizabeth. I have seen a vessel of 80 or 100 tons lie within it, but must come on a spring tide.” This later Elizabethan pier, and the one depicted on the 1685 map, was for the most part, of cut basalt stone construction, faced with dressed sandstone. It was the setting for the historic landing of King William III in June 1690.

The 1560 map showing the stone filled wooden pier, to the modern eye this appears as a temporary structure.

BL Cotton Augustus I ii 42.

36

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:49 Page 42

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

The harbour enclosed an area of about an acre with c 600 feet of berth area. It would have serviced the growing trades of the town and surrounding area.

Carrickfergus historian Samuel McSkimin noted the state of the harbour in 1820’s: “the quay is on the S.W. of the castle and is neat and convenient having been much improved within the last thirty years” and “in 1821 the dock being much choked with mud and sand, a number of gentlemen of the town, with the approbation of the Mayor, associated for its improvement.”

However, in 1825 the office of Port Surveyor was abolished and that of Principal Coast Officer was substituted. This was a major blow to the status of the port of Carrickfergus, it was now annexed to the Port of Belfast. In practice it meant that the port dues were no longer paid to Carrickfergus and Belfast became the senior port.

Despite this, trade through Carrickfergus harbour continued, and by the 1830’s the main import through the port of Carrickfergus was coal from the coal fields of Scotland and South Wales. Coal was used for domestic purposes and for the growing number of mills and factories around the town.

In 1837 Samuel Lewis in his Topographical Dictionary of Ireland records “the harbour is subject to the accumulation of mud and sand” and “the trade consists principally of the importation of coal and the exportation of cattle and occasionally grain.”

However, ‘’the imperfection of the harbour greatly restricts the trade of the port”. The shipment of coal was to become a major factor leading to the development of a shipyard in Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Harbour was a hub for coal trade.

Carrickfergus Museum

37

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 43

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

Carrickfergus Boat House was gifted by the Harbour Commissioners. The remains can still be seen today.

Carrickfergus Museum

Not all harbour activity was trade related, and in 1864 Carrickfergus Amateur Rowing Club was founded, with the first Regatta held in 1865. The Harbour Commissioners gave them a site for a clubhouse beside the East Pier. The remaining foundations are still visible. In 1886 Carrickfergus Sailing Club was established.

In 1867 the Harbour Commissioners added a red sandstone extension of 230 feet to the quay running into the sea in a southerly direction. Subsequently they added a 350 feet wooden jetty which took a westerly direction for 110 feet to give additional berth area. At this time the Census recorded there were 13 Carrickfergus ship owners: 433 registered vessels which regularly used the harbour and gave employment to 1,307men and 1 boy.

The Harbour Commissioners were aware that the existing harbour facilities were inadequate to cope with the much larger

This wooden pier would be replaced and officially opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. Carrickfergus Museum

38

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 44

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

trading vessels, and they were losing trade to Belfast. On 3rd February 1881 a contract was signed between the Harbour Commissioners and Thomas Dibble Lewin, of Newton Heath Manchester, for a tender to the value of £11,236-5s-0d. which was to be completed within 2 years. This included the removal of the existing wooden pier and the construction of two new piers enclosing the inner harbour. West pier was named “ALEXANDRA PIER” and the east, “ALBERT EDWARD PIER”. The new piers were officially opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales during their visit on Monday 27th April 1885, followed by a 21 gun salute!

The harbour was dredged in 1891 and 1901. The need to dredge the harbour has been an on-going necessity and in recent years has led to the closure of the harbour to commercial shipping.

Today the harbour and adjacent marina are in regular use for leisure and pleasure craft and attracting international tourists.

FISHERMAN’S QUAY –SCOTCH QUARTER CARRICKFERGUS

F

isherman’s Quay is located to the east of the Castle along the modern Marine Highway, in the area still known as Scotch Quarter. The quay was constructed of random cut Basalt blocks faced with chalk, (Cretaceous limestone) probably quarried from Carnlough.

In 1831 The Ordnance Survey of Ireland states “the Fisherman’s Quay was constructed at a cost of £1,300- £1,400 solely for the protection of the fishery craft.” At this time there were 57 fishermen working locally.

As often happens in historical research, not all sources agree, and the 1837 account by Samuel Lewis gives the date as slightly later: 'A handsome pier erected for the use of the fishermen in 1834 at

View from Fisherman’s Quay towards the castle, painted c.1880 by Anthony Carey Stanus. Carrickfergus Museum

39

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 45

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

an expense of £2,000 defrayed by a grant from Government and by local subscriptions.” Regardless of the construction date or costs, the underlying purpose of the pier remains the same. This was not to be used as a commercial harbour area, but was for the benefit of locals.

This is supported by the fact that local landowner Marriott Dalway had promised his constituents that if they voted for him in the local election he would press for a quay to be built.

FISHING IN CARRICKFERGUS BAY

A

s the construction of Fisherman’s Quay demonstrates, there was an active fishing industry in and around Carrickfergus: although it may be difficult to picture this today. In 1683 Mayor Richard Dobbs gives an account of the fishing in Carrickfergus Bay, as it was once known. “The bay and lough afford good plenty of scallops and some very large oysters…sometimes great store of herrings have been taken in this lough…In June AD 1681 a vast number of young whales, as come into this lough as far as Garmoyle, some whereof were taken 21ft long…this town is or might be well furnished with sea fish as, Codd, small codlings, skeat, sometime Turbets, Plaice, Sole”

By 1819 Samuel McSkimin notes the number of boats and fishermen. There were 123 men spread across 27 boats, and of these men, 102 were married, 95 could read and write, 26 could read only and 2 were illiterate.

There were two distinct groups of fishermen: Scotch Quarter and Irish Quarter distinguished by their type of fishing method and vessels. Thanks to the following account from Samuel Lewis in 1837, it is possible to identify the cultural differences in the two groups: IRISH QUARTER – “Those from the Irish Quarter -7/8 boats

with 4 men in each boat which are smack-rigged and work by trawling or dredging. The fish taken are plaice, skate, sole and Lythe or Pollock also lobsters and oysters of very large size and good flavour are also dredged” SCOTCH QUARTER- these fishermen came from Argyle and

Galloway c1665 settling on the east side of the town.

“The boats from the Scotch Quarter are small and without decks of not more than 3 /4 tons are smack rigged with a fore and main lug sail, occasionally worked with oars to the number of 6 in winter and 4 in summer. In the latter season from 16 to 20 boats carrying 4 to 6 persons each, both lines and nets are

40

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 46

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

used, when lines are used the number of hands increase to 910. Fish chiefly taken are cod, ling, hake, Lythe and herring, lobsters are also kept in traps or baskets.”

1856 Samuel McSkimin states the boats cost between £30 to £50 and a trawling net cost £6. The fishing in Carrickfergus Bay declined due to dwindling supplies of fish, caused by the extensive use of trawl nets which collected all sizes of fish decimating the fish stocks.

In 1909 Mrs McCrum notes “The fishing industry is now obsolete: at the Scotch Quarter Quay there is 1 boat for long line fishing, and 3 fishermen. There are 3/4 trawlers at the Town quay.” She also writes about the disappearance of oysters, herrings and other fish in the lough as a result of the ‘’sewage matter and dye stuffs from Belfast flowing down the lough and subsequent contamination of the water, also falling clinkers from passing vessels.”

View from Irish Quarter towards the castle.

Carrickfergus Museum

NAVIGATION & EDUCATION

C

arrickfergus has for generations sent men and boys to earn their living at sea. By 1850 the private schools in Carrickfergus offered classes in navigation “for young gentlemen wishing to go to sea”. In February 1861 the opening of the National Model School on the Belfast Road in Carrickfergus, led to the availability of instruction for the general population. A special Maritime Room 15ft x 18ft 9ins was constructed with tiered seating and a large window. Boys were encouraged to make the sea a career and a basic knowledge of maritime affairs would have given them an excellent grounding.

41

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 47

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

The 1862 and 1869 Annual Report of the Commissioners of National Education noted the number of boys undertaking navigation classes as 16 and 18 respectively.

Also, evening classes in Navigation and Nautical Astronomy were offered by the school principal Mr. J. Mc N. Stevenson at an additional cost for working men to gain knowledge.

The old Model School was demolished in the early 1960’s and a new school built on the original site.

Model School Carrickfergus, c.1890. Carrickfergus Museum

SHIPBUILDING IN CARRICKFERGUS

T

he construction of small wooden framed fishing boats would have serviced the needs of the local fishing community along the shores of Carrickfergus Bay, probably since the arrival of the Anglo-Normans. There is no known commercial shipbuilders noted in Carrickfergus Bay or Belfast Lough until the arrival in 1791 of Scotsman William Ritchie who set up a shipyard in Belfast.

There are 4 good reasons why Carrickfergus was an ideal location for shipbuilding 1 Position - on the north shore of Belfast lough with a suitable harbour and trading port 2 Extensive woodlands - within easy reach, giving a plentiful supply of timber 3 Availability of labour - there were skilled carpenters experienced in ship repair 4 Finance - wealthy Carrickfergus merchants and businessmen were willing to speculate on such a venture when they could see a reasonable return for their investment The first recorded Carrickfergus built ship c 1845 was named “David Legg” after the Town Clerk who was also a local ship owner and business man.

42

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 48

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

BOWMAN, LOGAN & COMPANY c1840 - 1860

T

he first noted commercial shipbuilding company was formed in the middle of the nineteenth century by a consortium of local businessmen: Bowman, Logan & Company. The only vessel built by them was named “Carrickfergus”, a Brigantine of 196 tons sheathed in yellow metal for the Panama trade. The names Bowman and Logan appear as Carrickfergus Municipal and Harbour Commissioners in 1840’ and 50’s. However, of interest at this time is the 1851 Census of Ireland -Occupations in Carrickfergus

Fishermen

71 male-1 under 15 yrs Boat & shipbuilders nil

Carpenters

42 males

Coopers

5 males

Turners- wood

2 males

Shipwrights

23 males

Sailors

93 males

Coastguards

5 male

Note the lack of Boat & Shipbuilders, indicating that whilst the company may still exist, it is likely that is was not undertaking any new commissions, and was employing shipwrights, carpenters, etc., to undertake repairs. However, this was to change. In 1852 a local young man Paul Rodgers was taken on by the company for a 6 year apprenticeship. He was the son of a farmer from “Slievetrue”, and it was likely through maternal family connections with the Logans, that he was offered the opportunity.

Another factor at the time which may have hindered the fledgling shipbuilding industry, was the discovery of salt on the Marquis of Downshire’s lands at Duncrue in the 1850’s. Messrs J & W Logan turned to investing in extraction and distribution, exporting salt and importing coal.

Rodgers later stated between 1852 to 1858 only one new vessel was built and very little oddments of work were undertaken by the yard.

In a letter dated 19 May 1857, in connection with trying to acquire a suitable site for the proposed Model School, “a most eligible one is in a field the property of Captain Bowie R.N. adjoining the shipyard and the site is liable to flood.” Captain Bowie was the Inspector and Commander of Coastguards 1843- 1852. This establishes that a working shipyard, whilst quiet, was in operation during the early 1850’s, located on the road towards Belfast to the west of the town on the foreshore.

ROBERT JOHNSTON 1860 - 1870

T

he ownership of the shipyard changed in 1860 when Ulster-Scotsman Robert Johnston purchased the above yard.

His Presbyterian family had come from lowland Scotland to settle in Co. Antrim, with four sons and two daughters. The sons established themselves in business both in Carrickfergus and Belfast, and the family resided at “Clover Hill” Belfast Road, Carrickfergus, directly across from the shipyard. Johnston was most likely to have previously 43

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 49

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

been connected with the shipyard when it was run by Bowman, Logan & Co as they were all enterprising businessmen. Johnston can be found in The General Valuation of Rateable Property in Ireland 1861: “Number 8 Belfast Road. Robert Johnston, immediate lessors Lieutenant, BOVEY house, offices, yard and slip Rateable Value, £35.0.0.”

On 13th July 1861 Johnston launched his first vessel “Dorothea Wright” of 200 tons made of “best Irish Oak”. Whilst still serving his apprenticeship with the yard, Paul Rodgers met his future wife, Robert Johnston’s daughter Janet (Jennie), and they were married in 1856, in the 1st Presbyterian Church in Carrickfergus Paul Rodgers was now Johnston’s son in law as well as a valued worker, and by 1868 he was the manager of the shipyard.

Shortly after, Robert Johnston decided to retire and moved back to Scotland where he died on 11th September 1891, at Upper Loch Lomond in the Parish of Simonds.

PAUL RODGERS 1870 – 1890

I

n 1870 the ownership of the yard was taken over by Rodgers.

Paul had served his apprenticeship from 1852 to 1858, however, he had no formal training in ship design or marine architecture. Fortunately, he had a natural flair and talent for design and with his years of practical experience he began designing sailing ships.

In 1856 after his marriage to Janet Johnston, they lived in accommodation beside the yard, and their only child Mary Johnston Rodgers was born on 20th February 1858. Paul would later design and build his home “Maritime Cottage” on the site and later “Albany Cottage,” Woodburn Road, for his daughter Mary who married architect Mr Henry Lynn.(Lanyon & Lynn

Paul Rodgers, shipbuilder and business man.Carrickfergus Museum

Paul Rodgers ‘Maritime Cottage’.

Carrickfergus THI

44

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 50

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

Architects). In private ownership, Maritime Cottage can still be found on the Belfast Road, marked with a Blue Plaque to Rodgers.

The various skills of both Robert Johnston and Paul Rodgers were evident in the Carrickfergus shipyard, and as early as 1864 Rodger’s skills in designing sailing schooners were being acknowledged. As previously mentioned, in 1868 he became manager, and in 1870 took control as proprietor of the yard.

In July 1874, the first ship launched under his direct control was named “Accrington Lass”. 160 tons for J. Bradshaw of Fleetwood, Lancashire, she was the first of a series of three masted wooden – hulled schooners. He was to build 16 wooden sailing ships between 1874 -1885 resulting in Rodgers developing a reputation for well designed and built ships. They were constructed with a shallow draft, ideal for working in tidal estuaries of the lucrative South American coastal trade.

Paul Rodgers was a shrewd businessman, regularly taking shares in his ships to offset costs and promote new business.

He was ready to speculate on the profits to be made from the cargoes carried by the ships.

In 1883 Rodgers obtained a lease of the adjacent foreshore and made the switch from building wooden ships to metal hulled ships. He realised that the future lay with iron and steel hulled vessels. This required changes in the yard: new plant and equipment was acquired and workmen employed who already possessed the technical knowledge of working with metal plating. He also acquired an old hulk which he converted into a large dry dock to be used for repair work.

1885 was the busiest production year for the yard, but 1888/9 saw a period of recession when no new vessels were built.

Rodgers endeavoured to find alternative work ship repairing, steam sawing and supplying wooden spokes etc.

The workers employed by Paul Rodgers, note they are grouped by trade. Carrickfergus Museum

45

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:50 Page 51

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

PAUL RODGERS & COMPANY 1890- 1892

I

n 1890 Rodgers formed a partnership with three other businessmen. This arrangement was made to raise the much needed capital to finance the running of the yard.

Unfortunately, the partnership was short lived and was dissolved in April 1892. Rodgers continued to run the business on a reduced scale and expanded the coal importation trade.

In 1892 Paul Rodgers sold the business to Robert Kent and Company of Ayr, Scotland

Carrickfergus Shipyard, situated on the foreshore of the Belfast Road. Carrickfergus Museum

ROBERT KENT & COMPANY 1892- 1894

R

obert Kent embarked on an ambitious re-organisation of the yard. This work included replacing the old patent slipway and deepening the finishing dock. Unfortunately, Kent overstretched his financial resources and the company was bankrupt by April 1894

PAUL RODGERS 1894 - 1901

P

aul Rodgers bought the shipyard back from Kent at a much reduced rate from that which he had received from Robert Kent in 1892.

He now turned his designing abilities to developing and expanding the yacht building business. He saw the potential to provide yachts for the new businessmen and entrepreneurs who had money to spend on recreational activities. In 1886 Carrickfergus Sailing Club was established and sailing Regattas were to become a regular feature in Belfast Lough. He also expanded the business of importing coal from Scotland and the English coast.

46

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 52

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

1896 LIFEBOAT “ZAIDA”

n 11th November 1896 the Royal National Institution established a life-boat station at Carrickfergus. “The lifeboat provided is a sailing and rowing boat, of the self –righting type, 37ft. wide x 9 1/4 f. wide; she rows 10 oars, doublebanked and is fitted with three water-ballast tanks provided with plugs and pumps … and two sliding keels to increase the boats weatherly qualities.” “The cost of the life-boat and her equipment has been defrayed as a memorial by a gentleman resident in London who does not want his name published..”

THE LIFE-BOAT 2 November 1896 p.655 (his name was T. B. Dryburgh Esq)

O

The new lifeboat station was erected outside the East Pier, and on the 11th November was christened “Zaida” by Mrs G.E. Kirk, Thornfield and Rev. George Chamberlain. Until recent years the old boat house support structures were visible close to the castle wall.

Launch of “Zaida” on 11th November 1896.

Carrickfergus Museum

END OF AN ERA

Paul Rodgers collapsed while returning from a concert in the Y.M.C.A. in Belfast. He died on the platform at York Road Railway Station on 8th March 1901. He was buried in St Nicholas Church graveyard with his first wife Janet Johnston Rodgers.

Paul Rodgers was involved with the civic life of the town; serving on the Municipal and Harbour Boards; was a member of the Grand Jury for the County of the Town of Carrickfergus; and was a founder member of Joymount Presbyterian Church On 24th May 1901 his widow Mary Rodgers, nee Woodside, his second wife), immediately sold the shipyard to yacht builder Joh Hilditch. She moved out of “Maritime Cottage” and went to live across the road at “Bayview” until her death in 1947.

47

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 53

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

JOHN HILDITCH

J

ohn Hilditch was another farmer’s son from Upper Woodburn, Carrickfergus. It is believed that he too served his apprenticeship in the Carrickfergus shipyard, and most likely worked alongside Rodgers. Some years later he left the yard to start up his own business: building yachts on land in Irish Quarter South, Carrickfergus. Through assistance from his father Robert Hilditch, he acquired some land from the Carrickfergus Harbour Commissioners to expand the business beside the west side of the harbour. This land was used for coal storage to fuel the local industries. See below the list of yachts built by John Hilditch.

This coal business was later sold to Charles M. Legg who continued to develop the company. His only son Charles Legg was killed in the First World War. He donated some of his land in his son’s memory for “Legg Park,” Belfast Road, together with the tennis court and swimming pool area bedside the foreshore.

In July 1921 Charles Legg sold the coal business to John Kelly Limited. This business was to flourish thanks to the rise in domestic coal sales and increasing supplies required by the growing industrial sites in the area. Today the old Kelly’s Coal Office in Governor’s Place has undergone a rescue restoration and has, like a phoenix, arisen for a new life.

Legg Park.

Carrickfergus Museum

Kelly’s Coal Office.

Carrickfergus THI

48

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 54

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

JIMMY REID

T

he Carrickfergus yacht building tradition was to be continued by Jimmy Reid who took over the Hilditch premises at Governor’s Place. The “Big Shed” – his workshop/yard on the reclaimed land at the harbour was a local feature for many years until the “Big Wind” of January 1952. It caused havoc throughout Ulster and brought down the “Big Shed” as well as causing the tragic sinking of “M.V. Princess Victoria”. Jimmy Reid did not rebuild the shed and did little additional yacht building work. He continued to live in the house adjacent to John Kelly’s Office. The site is now part of the harbour car park.

1950’S -60’S

F

rom the late 1950’s to the early 1960’s, Carrickfergus harbour was used for the import of chemicals for the newly developing man-made fibre industries of Courtaulds Limited and ICI Fibres Ltd. The Courtaulds factory was the first manmade fibre producing unit in Northern Ireland, manufacturing Rayon yarns from 1950 onwards. ICI Fibre Ltd producing nylon and polyester fibres commenced operations in 1962 at their Kilroot plant. Coasters regularly plied in and out of the

Carrickfergus Harbour c.1960.

Carrickfergus Museum

49

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 55

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

harbour. A regular visitor was the “MV Silver Kestrel” bringing caustic soda for Courtaulds – a smelly and dirty cargo on a windy day!

In 1956 on the old coal yard area to the west side of the harbour, the Regent Oil Company opened a storage depot with large storage tanks to meet the demand for petroleum needs. In 1967 the company became a subsidiary of Texaco Limited and regular tankers arrived to supply the depot. The harbour area needed to expand to cater for larger vessels which required more storage space. In the 1980s extensive reclamation work commenced on the west side, including new reinforced facings to the Alexandra pier to facilitate this. The whole area was cleared of the oil storage facilities. On 27th April 1985 H.R.H. the Prince and Princess of Wales formally opened the new commercial harbour.

TODAY

T

he area formally occupied by Paul Rodgers shipbuilding yard is now part of the harbour car park and the Marina Apartments. His home “Maritime Cottage” (Blue Plaque) still stands beside “Legg Park” on the Belfast Road. The adjacent Model School is still a popular Primary School and the Coastguard Cottages are now private dwellings. The lands behind these properties were reclaimed from the 1980’s onwards to become an extensive loughside housing development and new Marina. Later attracting commercial properties including a cinema, restaurants, supermarket and a hotel.

There is no longer any active shipbuilding business in Carrickfergus, but the harbour and Marina are home to a wide collection of marine craft used for leisure and pleasure activities and vessels from around the world are encouraged to visit. to stop and visit. The recently built Carrickfergus Sailing Club and Sea Cadet offices are located to the west side of the harbour. There are regular sailing activities throughout the year.

Carrickfergus following the insertion of the marine Highway and reclamation work within the harbour and surrounding area.

Carrickfergus Museum

50

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 56

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

LIST OF VESSELS BUILT IN CARRICKFERGUS SHIPYARD References from Lloyd’s Register of Shipping London Ownership of Yard

BOWMAN, LOGAN & COMPANY

Date 1845

Name DAVID LEGG

1850’s

CARRICKFERGUS

Type of Ship 147 tons Brigantine “best Irish oak” 196 tons Brigantine wooden sheathed in yellow metal

Owner Paul Logan

Ownership of Yard

ROBERT JOHNSTON

1861

DOROTHEA WRIGHT

93 ton Brigantine wooden iron bolted

P. Wight of Belfast

1865

CATHERINE FULLERTON

178 ton Brigantine wooden iron bolted sheathed in yellow metal L=105ft x B=23.7ft x D= 12ft

A Fullerton of Ayr

1867

JANE MILLEN Ownership of Yard

95 ton Schooner wooden iron bolted L= 81ft x B=21ft x D= 9.4ft PAUL RODGERS WOODEN HULLED VESSELS

Millen & Company

1874

ACCRINGTON LASS

160 ton 3 Masted Schooner iron bolts L= 83ft x B= 20.5ft x D=9.25ft Named by daughter Mary Rodgers

Bradshaw & Pilkington of Belfast

1875

THOMAS FISHER

191 ton 3 Masted Schooner copper bolts L= 109ft x B=24.2ft x D= 12.5ft

J. Wignall of Fleetwood Lancs.

1876

RIHARD FISHER

190 3 Masted Schooner copper bolts

J. Wignall of Fleetwood Lancs.

Later J. Fisher of Barrow in Furness Later W.Tyrell of Arklow Sank in River Mersey c1905

1877

BENGULLION

82 ton 3 Masted Schooner iron bolts L=81ft x B= 20.8ft x D= 8.6ft

J & A Mitchell &Co. of Campbelltown

1878

KATIE SWNY

196 ton 3 Masted Schooner copper fastened L= 111ft x B= 24.4ftx D= 12.5 ft

T.FISHER & Co of Fleetwood Lancs

1878

C.S.ATKINSON

118 tons the only 2x Masted Schooner copper fastened

J.ATKINSON of Belfast for the South American trade under Captain Arthurs

1879

JANIE GOUGH

197 ton Barquentine copper fastened L= 114ft x B= 24.6ft x D= 12.5ft

S.GOUGH of Belfast for South American trade under Captain Kimmings

1880 ** identical

**FANNY CROSSFIELD

99 ton 3 Masted Schooner copper fastened L=95.6ft x B= 22.1ft x D = 9.8ft

J.FISHER & Sons Barrow in Furness Later W. Black of Belfast. She traded in the Irish Sea. In 1937 ran aground in Strangford Lough – broke up

1881

**MARY MILLER

99 ton 3 Masted Schooner copper fastened L=93.2.6ft x B= 22.1ft x D = 9.9ft

J.FISHER & Sons Barrow in Furness Later 1928 Grounds of Runcorn 1931Captain Furlong of Arklow 1950’s C.P .Couch of Fowey Cornwall 1953 Houseboat

1881

**MARY ARMSTEAD

99 ton 3 Masted Schooner copper fastened L=95.6ft x B= 22.1ft x D = 9.8ft

J.FISHER & Sons Barrow in Furness

51

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 57

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

1882

POLLIE WHITTAKER Name changed to ORISSA Name changed to MARIE (SELSKABET MARIE )

174 ton 3 masted Barquentine copper fastened L= 109ft x B =24.4ft x D = 11.8ft

FALKLAND ISLANDS Co –coastal trader SEILSKIBS ACTIE Registered in Hjorring Denmark

1883

LOUIS BELL

99 ton 3 Masted Schooner iron bolted L= 94.3ftx B = 22.6ft x D = 9.6ft

J. FISHER & Sons of Barrow in Furness

1883

ANNIE CROSSFIELD

90 ton 3 Masted Schooner iron bolted L = 94.3ft x B = 22.4ft x D= 9.5ft Named by Mrs Iddon of Belfast Carried 20 tons of cargo

J. FISHER & Sons of Barrow in Furness

GLEANER

98 tons 3 Masted Schooner iron bolted L = 94.3ft x B = 22.5ft x D= 9.6ft Named by Miss Pritchard She was one of the fastest ships built by Rodgers for the Newfoundland fish trade.

In 1891 made record passage from Grace harbour to Bristol in 13 days

J.PRITCHARD of Runcorn

1884

EMILY

100 tons 3 Masted Schooner iron bolted L= 94.1ft x B = 22.4ft x D = 9.

Named by the wife of the Captain Arthur Anderson

T.RAYNOR of Runcorn

1885

EDITH CROSSFIELD

100 tons 3 Masted Schooner iron bolted L = 94.2ft x B = 22.5ft x D = 9.4ft Last wooden ship built by Rodgers Launched on 17th March 1885

J. FISHER & Sons of Barrow in Furness

1890 1893

1883

WYRE SHIPPING Co of Fleetwood

METAL HULLED VESSELS- IRON

1885

EMULATOR

140 ton Steam Tug 50H.P compound engine supplied by D.W. Grant of Belfast L = 95ft x B = 18ft x D = 10ft She was used to pull barges along canals from Western Point to the mouth of the river Mersey

1885

GLENAVNA PARK

368 ton Barquentine iron hulled , steel plated L = 156ft x B = 26.3ft x D = 11.9ft

J.W. VALENTINE & Co. of Belfast

GEORGE B. BALFOUR

191 ton 3 Masted Topsail Schooner iron frame , steel plated L= 133.3ft x B = 24.1ft x D = 10ft Named by Mrs Mary Lynn (Rodger’s daughter) on 27th October 1885

J. FISHER & Sons of Barrow in Furness For foreign trade

ANNIE PARK

192 ton 3 Masted Schooner L = 134.2ft x B = 21.1ft x D = 10.2ft

J. FISHER & Sons of Barrow in Furness

1887

PATRICIAN

166 ton 3 Masted Schooner Steel L= 120.5ft x B= 23.2ft x D = 10.4ft >> Barquentine >Lost in a collision off Goodwin’s Sands

P.TERNAN of Drogheda Later J.J.HALL of Arklow

1887

NELLIE FLEMING

Her existence could not be traced at LLOYD’s London? schooner lost in 1936 with all hands while under Cork ownership

1885

WESTON POINT TOWING COMPANY of Runcorn, Cheshire Later sold to Weaver Navigation Company

METAL VESSELS- STEEL HULLED 1886

The 4 vessels below were built to identical specifications for JAMES FISHER of Barrow in Furness

52

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 58

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

1890-to 1892

PAUL RODGERS & COMPANY

1890

144 tons 3 Masted Schooner L= 109ft x B =22.3ft x D =8.7ft She was named by Mrs Mary Lynn wearing a new “leghorn hat”

CREEK FISHER

1890

SHOAL FISHER

1892

POOL FISHER

1892

1891

1891

1892

1892 to 1894

135 ton 3 Masted Schooner L= 106ft x B= 22.6ft x D =8.6ft She was abandoned in a sinking condition in August 1932 after a collision with the tanker “TELENA” en route to Lisbon with a cargo of salt 135 ton 3 Masted Schooner L= 105ft x B= 22.3ft x D = 8.6ft

JAMES FISHER & SONS Barrow in Furness

JAMES FISHER & SONS Barrow in Furness

JAMES FISHER & SONS Barrow in Furness

FORD FISHER

135 tons 3 Masted Schooner L= 110ft x B = 22.3ft x D = 8.6ft Launched in July 1892 the last ship built for JAMES FISHER & Co.

JAMES FISHER & SONS Barrow in Furness

ANGLESEA

117 ton steel screw Ketch Engine supplied by Campbell & Calderwood , Soho Works, Paisley L= 91.ft x B =17.9ft x D =8.3ft Dispute over engine capacity and payment for vessel Launched by Mr Owen Thomas Jones for the Welsh slate trade

ANGLESEY SHIPPING COMPANY (O.T. Jones) of Beaumaris, Anglesea

SOUTH AMERICAN

417 ton Barquentine L = 166.3ft x B = 27.5ft x D= 12.5ft She was the largest ship built by Rodgers – used for the South American River trade

SOUTH AMERICAN S.COMPANY LTD (G.W. PHILIPS & Co) & Messrs. HARROWER & WORKMAN of Belfast

MARY B. MITCHELL

227 ton 3 Masted Topsail Schooner L = 129.7ft x B= 24.4ft x D = 10.8ft Used for the Welsh slate trade She was to have the most colourful career 1912 used by Lord Penryn as a pleasure craft then to carry Cornish china clay 1916 requisitioned for work as a “Q” ship No 9 – decoy to lure German submarines and then fire her 2 x 6 pounder & 1x 12 pounder guns “Q9” re-named “MARY Y JOSE” of Viga, Spain.

She was engaged in several successful actions.

Post WW1 traded between Ireland and west coast of Britain 1935 Film Star Appeared in 2 films – “McCuskey The Sea Rover” & “The Mystery of the Mary Celeste” WW2 carried supplies between Irish coast and Lisbon, Portugal 13 December 1944 she left Dublin for Silloth – she was blown aground in Kirkcudbright Bay. The crew were rescued by the Solway Coast Lifeboat but the ship was to rust away where she foundered.

W.M. PRESTON of Beaumaris Anglesey O.T. Jones Manager

Post WW1 Captain JAMES TYRRELL of Crinnis, Ferrybank, Arklow

Captain ARTHUR DOWDS

PAUL RODGERS and ROBERT KENT & COMPANY of AYR Scotland

53

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:51 Page 59

THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN

1892/3

RESULT

122 ton 3 Masted Topsail Schooner L= 102ft x B= 21.7ft x D = 9.1ft She was the “result” of long discussions between Paul Rodgers and Richard Ashburner who had drawn naval architect plans for the vessel.

Launched on 6 January 1893 1917 WW 1 requisitioned as a “Q” Ship No 23 against the German “U Boats. Returned to owners carrying cargos of slate 1950 Film Star In “Outcast of the Islands” 1951 – 1967 back to transporting coal along the South Wales coast 1970 sailed to Belfast for restoration work at Harland & Wolf Shipyard 1979 transported by road to the museum at Cultra.

THOMAS ASHBURNER &COMPANY of Barrow in Furness Then to Captain Henry Clarke of Braunton, North Devon Then to Captain Tom Welch then Captain Peter Welch 1967 Sold by his widow to The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, Cultra

PAUL RODGERS Yacht building, Ship repair yard, saw milling and coal importer

1894 to 1901 1 DAWN VENTURE OLGA

YACHTS 60 ton 15ton

MR MARRIOTT DALWAY MP

JOHN HILDITCH YACHT BUILDER +

1901

Built for members of Bangor Corinthian Sailing Club & Carrickfergus Sailing Club.

Later they all changed hands CLASS 1 BELFAST LOUGH CLASS 6 tons 37ft OA Beam 8ft 8ins water line 25ft draft 6ft 3ins sail area 862sq ft 1895/97

WHIMBREL WIDGEON HALCOYVE / HALCYONE FELTIE

MR H. TREVOR .HENDERSON MR WILLIAM VINT

HOOPOE

COLONEL SHARMAN CRAWFORD

FLAMINGO TERN MERLE SAYONARA

MR J.B.PIRRIE MESSRS KING MESSRS SMYTH MR A. CRAWFORD

MR G.HERBERT.BROWN MR GEORGE.S.CLARKE

ISLAND CLASS 10 tons

54

ERISKA VALIA TIARA

E.WORKMAN GEORGE.C. LEPPER W.HUME

TRANSNAGH

COLONEL SHARMAN CRAWFORD

IVIZA

WILLIAM MULLAN

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 60

SHIPBUILDING AND THE GAS WORKS

CLASS 11 BELFAST LOUGH SLOOPS 0.431ft X Beam 7ft6ins Rating 24.75 Main Gaff Top Sail fit area 550sqft 8xbuilt for Royal Ulster YC called Stars 5x built for Lough Neagh YC called Birds ASTREA CAPELLA CORONA LEDA NYSA VEGA CARINA

H.J.NEILL J&W.H.THOMPSON H.BROWN jnr.

W.H.CARSON & J.C.LEPPER ROBERT.E.WORKMAN A.LEMON jnr.

W.M. Mc MULLAN CLASS 111 BELFAST LOUGH 3 tons Sail area 400sqft draft 2ft 7x ships built

1902 FINVOLA DORIS NYMPH PIRATE LA POMPEE

BRUCE KILLEN J. McDOWELL Hon. D.BINGHAM R & D. WRIGHT D.H. DUNSEATH

+ Ref: Yacht information from “Bangor & Belfast Lough Yesterday & Today” by Charles F. Milligan p.35&36 he refers to John Hilditch as “John Hildage, Carrickfergus”

55

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 61

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

CARRICKFERGUS, 1850 TO 1925 Philip Orr, Freelance Historian and Author

It is tempting to typify the 75 years from 1850 to 1925 as a period in which Carrickfergus languished in the shadow of Belfast. The town’s population growth was modest, rising from just over 3,500 to 4,700. Belfast on the other hand was expanding rapidly. It achieved city status in 1888 and by the outbreak of the First World War it had become the largest urban area in the north of Ireland as well as an industrial hub of the British Empire. It would be all too easy to portray Carrickfergus as a town left with memories of past civic glory, having lost its county town status and its role as home to the County Antrim courthouse and gaol.

This chapter, however, will show that Carrickfergus actually continued to develop in many interesting ways during this period. In some respects, the town in fact benefited from its proximity to an ever-expanding Belfast, manifesting some of the optimism and dynamism that characterised the Victorian and Edwardian era. Although the buildings constructed in this period do not have the aura of its medieval and early modern structures , a formidable castle and extensive town walls, nonetheless there is a fascinating built environment for the reader to consider.

1st Ordnance Survey map of Carrickfergus, c.1832. Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland (OSNI®) maps were reproduced from Land and Property Services data with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, Crown copyright and database rights MOU.

56

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 62

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

INTRODUCTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE

A

n important moment in the commercial development of Carrickfergus was the arrival of the railway line from Belfast in 1848. At first there were only five passenger trains per day on the single-track line, but traffic grew rapidly. A permanent station was constructed with two platforms, and then in 1862, a line from Carrickfergus to Larne was opened.

This would create a connection to Larne harbour where ferry travel to Scotland would flourish in the following decade.

Carrickfergus Train Station designed by Berkeley Deane Wise. Carrickfergus THI

In 1869, a new locomotive turntable was constructed, and a carriage-shed and goods store were added shortly after. In 1885, a narrow guage track was created, running from the main line to the newly enhanced Carrickfergus harbour. In a golden moment for local railways, this track was inaugurated

by Prince Albert, the subsequent King Edward VII. It was in 1895, after a fire had destroyed the first station, that a handsome new station building was constructed at the head of Victoria Street. By this stage the company that operated the line was the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway (BNCR): its chief engineer was Berkeley Deane Wise, whose ingenuity in devising the scenic Gobbins coastal path near Whitehead was matched by his ability as an architect. Wise’s railway stations, such as the one in Carrickfergus and the more extensive one in Portrush, were built as mock-Tudor edifices.

The Carrickfergus station possessed walls of white stucco and black wooden beams situated on a base of red brick.

57

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 63

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

By now, the station possessed three platforms and thrived as part of the most prosperous railway company in Ireland. Then in 1903, the BNCR was bought by the Midland Railway Company, England. Rail travel continued to be important in the post-First World War era and in 1922 a state-of-the art signal box was added at the station. The narrow-gauge line was modified in the 1920s when a bridge was built to carry the track across the Belfast Road and replace a level crossing.

Known locally as the tramway bridge, it would eventually be removed in the 1960s to make way for the Marine Highway.

Carrickfergus Museum

The creation of this narrow-gauge track was part of an attempt to create a more substantial and successful harbour for Carrickfergus. The earlier harbour had been limited in scope, being of insufficient depth and providing little safety in stormy weather. By the 1870s, the pier was used mainly for ships that transported rock salt and coal.

The new harbour certainly provided good anchorage within a space that was sixteen times larger and much safer than the previous one. However, in an era of ever larger vessels in which steam would eclipse sail, the new harbour did not fulfil the commercial dream of its founders. Space for extensive commercial development around the harbour was not afforded by the town’s ancient geography, although the harbour was continually used for military purposes: supporting Carrickfergus’ role as a garrison town, and in the early years of the 20th century a large British Army ordnance depot existed there, serving the northern half of the island.

As we saw in the previous chapter, shipbuilding, albeit at a more modest level than in Belfast, had featured in Carrickfergus since the 1840s. From 1861 onwards the skills of local shipbuilder, Paul Rogers were very much to the fore.

However, by 1893, the last schooner made in the

58

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 64

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

Carrickfergus yard was completed. Named The Result, she would go on to serve with distinction in the First World War, when she was modified as a heavily armed vessel designed to destroy German submarines.

The Result, the last schooner to be built in Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Museum

A NEW KIND OF POWER

A

n aspect of local architectural heritage which has been well preserved is the gasworks at Irish Quarter West. It began to serve the town in 1855 and would operate through to the 20th century. Gasworks were a common feature of towns such as Carrickfergus in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The process for burning bituminous coal to produce gas, then purifying, storing and initiating its distribution was a complex one. It required a remarkable array of structures including retorts, a furnace, condensers, pumps, a meter house and a laboratory.

Most strikingly of all, a large, bell-shaped gasholder was built to house the final product. The original holder was replaced in 1895 by a much larger version that contained 40,000 cubic feet of gas. Originally designed to power streetlamps, better-off households began to use gas for domestic purposes, and shops and businesses followed soon after. By 1905, gas usage in the town had grown considerably, although the fact that there were 242 commercial and private customers in a town of just over 4,000 inhabitants, is a reminder that for most people, oil, lamps and candles still provided most of their night-time illumination. By the 1930s electricity would become the dominant means of illumination although the gasworks continued to operate.

59

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 65

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

Gasworks.

Carrickfergus Museum

An elaborate gas lamp and drinking fountain was installed in Market Place in 1881. It was a typical piece of wrought-iron Victorian street furniture, with an oversized lantern which was designed to be wind-proof, tapering downwards to avoid casting shadows in the immediate vicinity of the lamp post.

Reflectors also increased the effectiveness of the illumination.

The drinking fountain possessed a wide basin, spouts moulded to resemble shells and two drinking cups, attached by chains.

The ‘Big Lamp’, as it was known locally, was a gathering place and outdoor social centre through the decades that followed.

MILLS AND MINES

D

uring the period covered in this chapter many of the inhabitants of Carrickfergus and its hinterland worked at one of the mills, factories or other industrial plants situated in the district. A major source of employment was the flaxspinning business known as Barn Mills or Taylor’s Mills.

60

The ‘Big Lamp’. The original was damaged in 1952 and removed. Carrickfergus Museum. This modern replica was erected in 1990.

Carrickfergus THI

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 66

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

The latter name reflected the role of James Taylor, who developed flax-spinning on the site from 1852 onwards, introducing steam engines which eventually replaced the waterwheel for earlier cotton manufacture. Throughout the rest of the 19th century, the buildings which were constructed there would include a hackling mill, a bundling room and a carding house, in which flax fibre was prepared for weaving into linen. There was a boiler house and chimney, a dining room for employees, a reading room for their recreational use and a suite of offices. There is a strong sense that the employers made every effort to care for their employees.

Advert for James Taylor’s Mill.

Carrickfergus Museum

61

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 67

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

By 1888 these mills were employing 600 workers in a town of less than 4,550 inhabitants. The expansion of this business on its seven-acre site, backing onto green fields and open countryside, led to the creation of a road known as Taylor’s Avenue. This thoroughfare connected the mill to the shore road which led from Carrickfergus to Whitehead and Larne. A railway halt and level-crossing were established at Taylor’s Avenue, though these were replaced by an iron footbridge in the final years of the 19th century. This railway footbridge was one of several built in Ulster by the prestigious Glasgow ironwork firm known as the Saracen Foundry. Other examples existed at Castlerock and Whitehead.

Taylors level Crossing.

Carrickfergus Museum

In the early years of the 20th century, a line of three-storey terrace houses and spacious villas in Scotch Quarter was built for men who occupied senior roles in the mill. A schoolhouse was also established on the quarter with monetary assistance from the mill-owners. Further housing was created in the vicinity, including a terrace of good quality homes at Fairymount, each with a porch and a small yard or garden to the rear. However, the brutal reality was that for many men and women who worked long hours in an atmosphere that was thick with flax-dust, chronic lung disease was the sad result.

Woodburn linen weaving company on the northern outskirts of the town was another major employer. It operated on a substantial 40-acre site and 30 worker’s houses were built nearby. At its industrial height the factory operated with 300 looms and contained a bleachworks. It provided work for 400 employees in its Victorian heyday.

62

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 68

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

Woodburn Weaving Factory.

Carrickfergus Museum

Additionally at Sullatober, a bleaching and print works was founded in 1872. Other industrial buildings in Carrickfergus throughout the late 19th or early 20th century included a tanyard, brickworks, a distillery and the bleachworks at Joymount that had been founded back in 1834. The perils of fire at industrial premises in this era were amply illustrated on an April night in 1896 when a blaze spread through the Joymount premises and £2,000 worth of stock was destroyed: over a quarter million pounds in today’s terms.

Salt-mining had taken place at Duncrue since the mid-19th century. Mine shafts were sunk in this vicinity at Maidenmount and Frenchpark, and also near the coastal village of Eden. A tramway was laid, on which trucks, pulled by ponies, brought rock salt to the main railway line. After 1887, the salt was dissolved in vats and piped to Clipperstown where it was processed then loaded onto railway wagons.

Workers at the Frenchpark mine, Duncrue, c1930s.

Carrickfergus Museum

63

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:52 Page 69

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

CHARITABLE LIVING

O

nly a few employees at any of these mills, mines or factories enjoyed the quality of environment found at the town’s charitable institutions. On Ellis Street, an earlier 18th century set of alms houses had been replaced in the early years of the 19th century and the homes were again renovated in 1904. The eminent architect and engineer Charles Lanyon also left his mark on Carrickfergus with a neat 1840s design for Gill’s Alms Houses which stood in Governor’s Place. In 1851 they underwent further development.

Gills Alms Houses, originally designed by Charles Lanyon.

Carrickfergus THI

However, in 1868, as an older man, Charles Lanyon was commissioned to design another suite of homes for a charity that had been established by the recently deceased Irish philanthropist Charles Sheils. He had witnessed the impact of the mid-century Irish Famine and was determined, in his own words, to ‘rescue a few of the thousands of destitute persons scattered over almost all the towns and villages in Ireland’.

Carrickfergus Shelis Houses.

Carrickfergus THI

64

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 70

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

Over subsequent decades, architects were hired by the charitable foundation to build alms houses at five different locations including Carrickfergus, all of which were free of rent to those who were admitted. Each establishment would undertake to house men and women drawn from the local area.

They had to be in ‘the latter decades’ of life, and they had to have ‘fallen on hard times.’ Each one was chosen without reference to religious creed. The governance of the institution involved clergy from several denominations, thereby furthering religious co-operation The Sheils Houses at Carrickfergus were situated in spacious grounds on the eastern edge of the town, originally next to open countryside and close to the sea. They were accessed by a short, handsome driveway and visitors who approached by that route were greeted with the vista of a handsome red-brick structure in Victorian Gothic style with a central tower, a clock and weathervane. The tower was flanked on each side by the residents’ houses. When further homes were added in the 1880s and in 1916, there would be thirty-one comfortable homes on the site.

The Shiels Houses Clock Tower.

Carrickfergus THI

65

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 71

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

The design of the Sheils houses clearly reflected the flair of an architect who had been responsible for numerous landmark buildings in Belfast and the development of the scenic Antrim Coast Road. One appealing feature of the homes at Carrickfergus was the occasional deployment by the architect of tiny, round ‘signature’ windows. A series of individualised plaster mouldings on several of the doorways also added appeal as did the mix of plain and ‘fish scale’ slates on the roof. Extralarge guttering was designed to collect ample supplies of rainwater which were piped to underground tanks where the water could be accessed by residents via a ‘horse-tail’ pump in the grounds.

The entire project reflected the benefactor’s desire not just to put a roof over the head of those who were in need but to cater for their physical and emotional well-being. There were free deliveries of coal and good access to medical care. Managers were instructed by Sheils to mediate ‘patiently and kindly’ when it came to ‘differences and disputes’. The grounds were large enough to allow for pathways, vegetable plots and grazing for livestock. In keeping with Victorian practice, the grounds were soon adorned with exotic species of trees from across the empire such as Douglas Fir, Copper Beech, Horse Chestnut, Monkey Puzzle and Turnkey Oak. CARRICKFERGUS CHURCHES AND ITS CHURCHES

C

oncern for the spiritual well-being of a town that was undergoing rapid industrialisation led to the establishment of a variety of new churches which were often built, rebuilt or modified on sites that were already in use. The tall 18th century spire of the ancient Church of Ireland, known as St. Nicholas, still presided over the town and was a key navigational aid for ships coming into the local harbour. However, the period from 1850 to 1925 saw the construction of several new buildings for Presbyterian and Methodist congregations, as well as for the Irish Baptist denomination and the Congregationalists. It was not until the 1920s, however, that the Catholic church, also named St Nicholas, undertook an extension and renovation of its premises.

Irish Presbyterianism had a rich history in the town, going back to the 17th century but, in the 1830s, a nation-wide split within the denomination led to the establishment of a ‘nonsubscribing’ Presbyterian congregation in Carrickfergus. The local ‘non-subscribers’ worshipped at Joymount, holding to a faith that abjured ‘man-made creed’. There was talk of establishing a new meeting house at Joymount for ‘subscribing’ Presbyterians whose numbers were greater than those in the

66

St Nicolas' Roman Catholic Church. Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 72

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

‘non-subscribing’ church. Throughout the 1850s, their infant congregation had already held meetings in the old courthouse.

The new Joymount Presbyterian Church, opened in 1856, was designed in a sturdy, plain Romanesque style, situated in an area that had, in all probability, been part of Sir Arthur Chichester’s 17th century deer park. By 1860 a capacious manse had been added. Then, as a typical Presbyterian act of congregational outreach, the Joymount church members paid for the erection of a schoolhouse, over a mile away at Sullatober, for the workers at the nearby bleaching and print works. This was a one-room structure built of stone with a thatched roof and earthen floor. It was replaced by 1880 with a more substantial building.

Joymount Presbyterian.

Carrickfergus THI

By 1889, a new schoolroom and lecture-hall was added at Joymount to accommodate the classes which were already taking place on the church premises. In 1909, further renovations occurred, involving re-lighting and re-heating the building, improving the ventilation and ‘beautifying’ the interior. As in most Presbyterian churches, the move from unaccompanied psalm singing gave way to hymn singing and as a result a pipe organ was installed in 1920.

The story of the new church at Joymount hasd grown significantly in confidence in an era when Presbyterianism moved far from its origins as a dissenting denomination, on the outer fringes of the 18th century Irish Protestant establishment.

The denomination would eventually play a key civic role in the new Northern Ireland state, established in 1921.

67

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 73

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

Self-confidence of Presbyterian culture was reflected in the architectural choices of its congregations. During the 1870s, the church in North Street, which had already grown from a thatched meeting house to a handsome classical building fifty years before, constructed a tall Italianate bell-tower in a style that was fully in keeping with contemporary architectural fashion. But, Presbyterians were also keen to maintain connection with the labour depots which grew up around the new mills and factories as industrialisation continued. A new church was founded at Woodburn in the mid-1860s, catering for the men and women who worked in the linen manufacturing business there.

North Street First Presbyterian Church, Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Museum

From 1850 to 1925, the role of the local Presbyterian minister as a humble, hard-working pastor and preacher continued to be important. The Reverend Minford began almost three decades of service at Joymount in 1908. He possessed a bicycle with a satchel in which he stored a Bible for use when visiting members of his congregation. Clearly, a majority of families who sat in the pews each Sunday lived within cycling distance of their place of worship.

Another religious structure erected in the Victorian era was the Congregational Church, which was built from red brick and roofed with slate: located on the Albert Road. Congregational preaching had occurred in the town in the 17th century but a sustained presence dated only from 1816. By 1821 a plot of land had been acquired close to the harbour for the erection of a building known as the Quay Gate church. Legend has it that the building was often washed with waves from the harbour when there was a storm. By 1878 the foundation stone of a new church building had been laid on Albert Road and in the following year, regular worship began there.

68

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 74

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

The architect was local man Luke Macassey. Not only was he the chief engineer on the new harbour project, but he also made a name for himself by initiating a system of piped water supply leading from the Mourne Mountains to Belfast. The builder of the church was Henry Laverty, subsequently responsible for the construction of St Anne’s Cathedral in Belfast.

Carrickfergus Congregational Church, c.1878.Carrickfergus Museum

What comes across from biographies of men such as Macassey, is the way that non-conformist congregations in Carrickfergus provided skilled, dynamic professionals who contributed to the technical and economic development of Ulster during the province’s economic advances. This link is also seen in the career of Sir James Hamilton, who chaired the board of the prestigious Belfast Harbour Commission, and who was the son of another former minister of the local Congregational church.

The gas-lit interior of the new Albert Road church possessed terrazzo flooring in the foyer and stained pine ceiling with matching wainscoting in the sanctuary. The building was capable of seating a congregation of 600. The close ties of 19th century Carrickfergus to the wider nautical and imperial world would feature in one of the church’s later stained-glass memorial windows. This window was dedicated to Jane Reid, the wife of a local sea captain. It featured a vessel in which she had sailed around the world with her husband for 17 years, crossing and re-crossing the Equator and rounding such

69

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 75

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

treacherous headlands as Cape Horn. The window was decorated with bluebells to reflect the name of the sailing ship.

The glass also included a depiction of Carrickfergus Castle.

The church continued to expand its facilities. In 1890, a hall was added, with its entrance facing onto Queen Street, designed by William John Fennell who, four years later, designed the Mater Hospital on Belfast’s Crumlin Road.

By the 1890s a caretaker’s house, a vestry, a Sunday School room, a kitchen and space for the stabling of horses all existed on the premises. In 1898, a mission hall was built in the nearby village of Eden and in 1901, a manse was constructed on the town’s North Road. As in every other church in the town, there were grievous losses during the First World War and the new organ, installed in 1920, was dedicated to the memory of those who had fallen.

HEARTH AND HOME

O

n the Belfast Road, Scotch Quarter or elsewhere on the arterial routes that led out of the town, this period saw the growth of good quality housing which offered considerable luxury for those who could afford it or who possessed the requisite status. The Church of Ireland parish of St Nicholas decided to build a new rectory, which was occupied for the first time in 1890. Later occupants would record the pleasing design and utility of this handsome red-brick villa, indicating how well it would have looked when the poet Louis MacNeice was living there as a child in the years just prior to and during the early years of the First World War: his father being rector for the church, before later going on to become Bishop of Down, Connor and Dromore (1934-1942)

70

he foundation stone of the Hero’s Tower at St Nicholas Church was laid in October 1919, to commemorate those who had fallen. Carrickfergus Museum. By 1960 the original tower was in poor condition and was replaced by the current entrance Bell Tower. Carrickfergus THI.

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 76

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

There was a sizeable garden which was an acre in size, front and back. By the time the MacNeice family was resident there, this garden was graced by yellow laburnum, chestnut trees, a hawthorn hedge, an orchard and fruit bushes. A short driveway led up to a front door and a handsome glass porch.

The drawing room had large bay windows, whilst the dining room had a fireplace with a surround of grey and black marble that had a distinctive ‘red vein’ running through it. This room was used by the young boy’s father as a study.

There was a scullery and a pantry where oil lamps were stored, and a kitchen with a large cooking range. Upstairs there were three principal bedrooms and two smaller ones, including one that acted as nursery for the MacNeice children. A mahogany staircase led further up through the house to an attic room used by servants, heated in winter by a blazing fire in the iron fireplace.

The manse was replaced with MacNeice fold c. 1980s.

Carrickfergus Museum

The villa’s location, not far from the railway line on the North Road was still very much at the junction between town and country. Young Louis would recall a cinder path alongside the railway which led employees each morning to Barn Mills.

He would also remember a man who walked his cows past the house to be milked. However, when war came in 1914, the green fields which lay opposite the villa became a very busy place. Hundreds of soldiers trained there, living in tents and huts.

71

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 77

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

MacNeice would offer a set of unfinished autobiographical musings on Carrickfergus, just before he died. And he painted a grim and disparaging picture of the poverty-stricken streets which existed a few minutes walk away from his home. He recollected pavements that were ‘constellated with spit’ and ‘drab cement walls’ that were ‘chalked up’ with sectarian slogans such as ‘to hell with the pope’.

He claimed that he could still recall the ‘dense smell of poverty’ emanating from homes with open half doors and low thatched roofs ‘mottled with grass or moss.’ That smell was one in which ‘soot mixed with porter mixed with cheap fat frying.’

One of his most vivid memories was of a public house in Irish Quarter West which had ‘great wide windows of opaque decorated glass’ and where young Louis could hear glasses clinking and drinkers arguing.

Image 19: Louis MacNeice.

Carrickfergus Museum

The recollections of a Mr Jim Thompson, as captured in an edition of the Carrickfergus Historical Society’s magazine, suggests that when he was growing up as a boy, several parts of the town evidenced poverty and wealth side by side, just as young Louis MacNeice had observed.

72

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 78

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

Thompson lived in the vicinity of Agnes Street, during the second decade of the 20th century, on the shoreline next to Fisherman’s Quay. The quay had long since ceased to be a viable harbour for local fishermen, but the fine, new residential housing of Scotch Quarter existed nearby, alongside a number of small, whitewashed thatched cottages with ‘half-doors’.

Situated alongside these smart and capacious homes belonging to managers in the mills, the meagre cottages which Jim Thompson described, belonged to residents whose ancestors who, upon arrival from 17th century Scotland, relied heavily on fishing stocks in the lough.

Thompson recalled a communal cast-iron pump on which many local people relied for water, and he remembered the melancholy sight of two long-abandoned fishing boats beached on the shore. One local woman hung out her washing to dry on a line which she had fixed between the two vessels. Older residents spoke about bygone days when they would undertake trips inland to search for ‘sally rods’ with which to make creels and lobster pots.

Cottages of Green Street.

Carrickfergus Museum.

EDUCATION AND CIVIC LIFE

M

ost of the older residents would have been educated under the National School system that existed in Ireland up to partition, and the subsequent development of a northern state in the 1920s. In theory these schools were nondenominational but in practice they were often aligned with local Catholic and Protestant churches, reflecting the religious micro-geography of Irish towns, villages and townlands. This chapter has already noted the educational remit of the Joymount Presbyterian congregations.

73

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 79

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

Amongst the schools which existed in Carrickfergus in the prepartition era were the Catholic-oriented Minorca National School in Irish Quarter West and the Lancasterian School in Graveyard Lane. The latter employed teaching methods devised by Joseph Lancaster involving the use of older children to help teach large classes. By 1860, a handsome ‘Model’ National School had been opened on the Belfast Road. Model schools were set up throughout Ireland in the 19th century to offer training to young people who might themselves become potential teachers.

A variety of buildings contributed to the civic life of the town besides churches and schools. Through much of the latter half of the 19th century, a reading room, library and museum operated in High Street and a successful Literary and Scientific Society used the premises. The building was destroyed by fire in 1907. Hotels and public houses offered hospitality and conviviality.

Some of the buildings in the town reflected the growth of sport in the Victorian and Edwardian era. A clubhouse for the Carrickfergus Amateur Rowing Club was opened next to the harbour in 1873, rebuilt in 1902 and renovated once again in the years between the two world wars. In 1889 a football pitch was established for the new club known as Barn FC, which had close ties to the mill after which it was named. By 1923, football was being played there every week in the newly formed Irish Football League though the club closed in 1928, only to be re-created at a later date.

The YMCA has continued to have a strong presence in the town, and in 1908, opened new premises in Market Place.

Carrickfergus Museum

74

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 80

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

MILITARY ASSOCIATIONS

M

eanwhile, a military presence featured strongly in the town. The Antrim Artillery was formed in 1854 to undertake coastal defence in the vicinity. By 1856, it had moved into the former County of Antrim courthouse and taken a lease on the larger site on which the building stood. This included ownership of an old barracks and the former gaol. By 1896, the army had; purchased the entire property; demolished the barracks and gaol; and commenced construction of an ordnance store which would serve for the needs of British infantry garrisons in the entire northern half of Ireland. As part of the complex, a warrant officer’s house and a guard-cell were constructed, the latter building being designed for soldiers who had flouted military law. The structure was primarily of red brick, but it possessed a dressed basalt wall on the side facing Antrim Street.

Warrant Officers House and Guard Cells. Carrickfergus THI

By the early years of the 20th century, the garden battery of cannon, which overlooked the lough beside the castle, were out of date and a new coastal artillery base was established at Kilroot. The castle continued to be a military building up to 1928 when it went into state care. Modifications to this ancient building had continued throughout the period in question, including a tunnel which was built to link the armoury and magazine inside the castle, with a tramway on the east pierhead.

Antrim Artillery at Carrickfergus Castle.

Carrickfergus Museum

75

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:53 Page 81

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

Sadly, the First World War brought tragedy to Carrickfergus as it did throughout the island, and this led to changes in the built environment in the form of memorials to those who had served. Additionally, on Ellis Street, four cottages were built by the Irish Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Land Trust. In all probability these buildings were constructed in the 1920s and would have been made available to local First World War veterans and their families at a ‘reasonable’ rate. Their presence in this chapter is a reminder that ex-servicemen were a familiar sight in the years that followed the Great War, many of them suffering from disabilities.

HEALTH, WELLBEING AND THE MOVE TO 20TH CENTURY MODERNITY

T

hese wartime deaths were not the only tragedies. Life expectancy rose in Carrickfergus between 1850 and 1925 as it did elsewhere. However, just as a cholera outbreak had led to deaths in the town during the 1850s, the Spanish Flu spread through the local community in 1918 and 1919 with no respect for age or social class. Sadly, these deaths from influenza have left virtually no built heritage behind other than the gravestones of those families who could afford to mourn the dead in such a permanent manner.

A new cemetery was opened in the Edwardian era on the thoroughfare formerly known to locals as Houston’s Loanen before its reincarnation as Victoria Road. The money to initiate the purchase of land and begin interments was provided by a member of the Legg family who had emigrated to South Africa.

The entrance was graced with a fine wrought-iron gateway and a plaque which signified that Hugh Legg of Capetown was the benefactor. An earlier cemetery on the North Road was created in 1859. It belonged to the Church of Ireland and contained an elegant small mortuary chapel.

A cluster of new commercial buildings appeared in this period on High Street, North Street and West Street and along other central thoroughfares, following the line of the town’s

Market House.

Carrickfergus THI

76

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 82

A CENTURY OF CHANGE

medieval street pattern. Paving of granolithic slabs began to replace cobbled footpaths during the Edwardian period, adding to the modernity of the town centre in ways that gas lighting had done, half a century before.

Local businesses belonging to families such as Vint, McCambridge and Legg became familiar names for Carrickfergus people. In the 1880s, Bell’s shop in the heart of the town began to publish the first editions of The Carrickfergus Advertiser.

The attractive 18th century market house in Market Place had already been superseded by a more extensive market yard by the Victorian era, and instead it functioned as the town hall and petty sessions courthouse until the 1930s. Only from 1935 onwards did the elegant 18th century courthouse and subsequent military barracks become Carrickfergus Town Hall.

However, as well as the larger town-centre premises, a number of local ‘corner’ shops made up an important part of the built environment. One such was the shop built in 1889 on Nelson Street by Walter Carruth. The shop sold groceries, confectionary, toys and writing materials and ran a Christmas Savings Club for its members. The shop and the house of which it was a part were home to the Carruth family. Walter Carruth had a building yard and stores at the back and his wife managed the shop.

Other features of a typical Ulster town with a strong Protestant ethos appeared in the years covered by this chapter, including a new building belonging to the Masonic Brotherhood in Victoria Street which was constructed in 1896. The Orange Order had also built halls not just in the town centre but at outlying districts such as Kilroot, Woodburn and Knockagh.

King William Memorial Orange Hall, Albert Road, Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Museum

77

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 83

CARRICKFERGUS 1850 TO 1925

It is interesting to consider how men and women who were born in the 1840’s, and who had been blessed with longevity, would have felt about their town as they contemplated it from the viewpoint of the 1920s. These imaginary individuals were now octogenarian citizens of the new country of Northern Ireland, and they surely felt that they had lived through a time of change, not just politically but also in terms of the townscape that they inhabited.

But if the story of change from 1850 to 1925 is one of civic progress in many respects, it is wise to acknowledge that this is not the whole story. Excerpts from Louis MacNeice’s autobiographical writings have already been employed above, and in his famous poem Carrickfergus, the poet offers a further unflinching portrayal of a town that still struggled with underdevelopment, filth and widespread ill-health in the second decade of the 20th century.

His poem begins by referring to the town of his childhood as a ‘smoky’ place and he observes how the textile industries had caused pollution: some of the streams that ran through the town were ‘stinking of chorine’. The toll of work in the local factories and mills all too often resulted in a shortened lifespan, a reality which surfaces in MacNeice’s depiction of the yarnmill’s hooter uttering a ‘funeral cry.’

He goes on to note how the grand commercial plans for the new harbour had not materialised, as it was now a ‘bottleneck’ where ‘mud’ collected and where only ‘little boats’ were moored. Above all, throughout the poem there is a profound sense of a rigid class system, overlain with religion, reinforced by history. That system keeps the young boy of the rectory ‘banned forever from the candles of the Irish poor.’

A poem is not an impartial record of society, and MacNeice’s own state of mind as a bereaved child who had an uncomfortable relationship with his father, must be noted.

Nonetheless his evocation of Carrickfergus in the early years of the First World War should act as a reminder that there was much social and economic progress still to be achieved in the town despite the sterling efforts that had been made in recent decades to create an impressive, modern built environment.

78

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 84

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

CARRICKFERGUS AND THE SECOND WORLD WAR Alan Freeburn, Collections Officer Northern Ireland War Memorial

NORTHERN IRELAND: A PIVOTAL PLAYER

A

t the monthly meeting of Carrickfergus Urban District Council (Carrickfergus UDC) on Monday 3rd October 1938, it was agreed that the Town Clerk ‘convey to Mr. Neville Chamberlain, the British Prime Minister, the Council’s congratulations on the successful outcome of his efforts in preserving the peace of Europe during the recent crisis’.

Eleven months later, at 11.15am on 3rd September 1939, Neville Chamberlain announced that for the second time within 30 years, the United Kingdom had declared war on Germany.

Much has been made of Northern Ireland’s role during the Second World War. After the Fall of France in the early summer of 1940, and the rerouting of shipping around the north of the island of Ireland, Northern Ireland found itself thrust into a position of strategic importance. As the most western country of the UK, its ports were ideally located to be developed as bases for convoy escorts. Belfast, Bangor and Larne all witnessed an increased number of warships, but it was Londonderry and Lough Foyle, as the most western facility available, that went on to play a critical role in the Battle of the Atlantic. Additionally, the construction of a number of new airfields in Northern Ireland between 1940 and 1941 enabled the aircraft of RAF Coastal Command to combat the U-boat threat in the Atlantic: notably with the help of the Irish Governments permission to fly through a narrow strip of airspace called the Donegal Corridor that further extended their range into the mid-Atlantic, reducing flight time.

As one of the oldest towns in Ireland, historical narratives of Carrickfergus are dominated by its medieval and early modern prominence, as a seat of power on the shores of Belfast Lough, or previously Carrickfergus Bay. Yet little has been published on the role of the town and its inhabitants during the Second World War. This chapter will explore how Carrickfergus was affected by the conflict and how its people contributed towards the war effort. While the narrative is plentiful, when compared to other areas of Northern Ireland, Carrickfergus has little surviving built heritage from the period: a Nissen Hut stands beside the King William III Memorial Orange Hall on the Albert Road, an air raid shelter can be found at the gasworks and, outside the town, much of Kilroot Fort remains.

79

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 85

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

A postcard of High Street, Carrickfergus sent home by an American Serviceman in 1942.

Archives of U.S. Army WWII veteran Robert H. Searl, 56th Signal Battalion.

Around Northern Ireland the physical legacy of the Second World War can still be seen; the remnants of airfields are scattered across the country; pill boxes remain along the coast and the River Bann; and graveyards contain the headstones of those killed during the conflict. The fact that the war is still, just, within living memory means that the legacy of the war is not only physical. The period often provokes a strong sense of nostalgia and captures the public imagination like few others.

It is covered across the educational curriculum and numerous museums tell the story of how their area was affected, and how local people contributed to the war effort. But whilst the military significance of NI’s geographical location cannot be overstated, it is often forgotten how long it took for the home front in Northern Ireland to adapt: a stark contrast with life in Great Britain.

Following the outbreak of hostilities, it is widely recorded that life in NI went on as normal; there was no conscription; food was readily available; and whilst cinemas in GB closed in the autumn of 1939, those in NI remained open. It was observed that NI was ‘a quiet corner’ far removed from the war leading it to be dubbed as ‘the pleasantest place in Europe’. By November 1940 unemployment had fallen by nearly 40 percent in GB, whereas in NI it had risen by 10 percent.

Despite province wide recruitment rallies after the ‘Fall of France’ and the Dunkirk evacuation, recruitment levels to the armed forces where found wanting and industrial output was disappointing. Northern Ireland had the worst industrial output of any UK region and many major industries were affected by regular and lengthy strikes. A further notable difference to the rest of the UK was the apathy and even resentment towards Air Raid Precautions (ARP) and the blackout. Public attitudes were negligent, borne out in 1940 by

80

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 86

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

the 15,500 blackout offences recorded across Northern Ireland. Rather remarkably, by the time of the first air raid in April 1941, the lighthouses on Belfast Lough where still operating as they would in peace time. Nonetheless, it appears that even the threat of war in the late 1930s had an immediate impact upon the town of Carrickfergus.

BLACKOUT PREPARATIONS

B

y the time the Air Raid Precautions Act was passed in 1938, Carrickfergus already had an ARP Committee. It is apparent that Carrickfergus UDC heeded the advice of the Advisory Committee, appointed in 1936 to advise the government on how to prepare against the event of attack from the air. It recommended that local authorities adapt a skeletal framework in their implementation of a localised ARP scheme, and that NI should take ‘precautions of a character as similar as possible to those being adopted in GB’: however it warned that NI was ‘some 18 months behind’. It stressed the necessity of local authorities co-operating with each other and that ‘it was idle to suggest that merely because of its geographical position Northern Ireland [was] less vulnerable.’ The Larne ARP Group, established in 1937 and encompassing the area of Larne, Carrickfergus and Whitehead, approx. 40,000 people, was the first to be established in Ulster. By 29th April 1939, the ARP services within Carrickfergus UDC stood at 117 personnel including 42 women. Only 15 members short of the estimated requirement.

The air raid sirens sounded at barn Spinning Mills for the ‘enemy raid’. Carrickfergus Museum

Perhaps due to the prompt establishment of ARP in the area, 180 square miles within the Larne ARP Group were selected to undergo an ‘enemy raid’ to test the effectiveness of the new precautions. Early on the morning of 24th June 1939, the air raid sirens sounded at Barn Spinning Mills, Woodburn

81

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 87

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

Factory, and Joymount Bleach Green as three planes from RAF Aldergrove ‘raided’ the area. The planes were picked up by searchlights at Kilroot Fort and Milebush and according to the Newsletter, created considerable excitement in the town with hundreds of people remaining outdoors during the ‘raid’.

Observers were recorded as being well satisfied at the results except for five lights on show from a tourist hotel in Larne.

Even the Quersee, a German steamer docked in Larne Harbour heeded the test and extinguished its lights.

The day after the declaration of war when Carrickfergus UDC met for their monthly meeting, the Chairman appealed to the townspeople to do all they could in the present. Councillor Patterson suggested that the Council write to the military authorities offering the use of Carrickfergus harbour.

However, the harbour required regular dredging, and this proved to be a recurring problem. Companies such as John Kelly Limited, Munster Simms and Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) requested that the berths be deepened by a further 3-5 feet but there was a danger that persistent dredging would weaken the foundations of the West Pier. Due to the issue, Chief Staff Officer, Captain Heamans based at HMS Caroline in Belfast declared Carrickfergus harbour to be ‘quite useless for any naval purpose’ in October 1940.

By 1943 the matter was still unresolved. ICI and John Kelly Limited wrote to the Town Clerk separately to complain of the difficulties encountered in the harbour, with the letter from John Kelly strongly stating that it ‘had fallen to the level of some of the potato loading villages of the County Down coast’.

It is unsurprising therefore that the Admiralty deemed Carrickfergus to be of no use. In contrast, Larne witnessed an estimated 4.3 million service personnel along with 92,000 military vehicles, accommodated with a new purpose-built pier while Bangor went on to have a major role as a signalling station, convoy rendezvous and marshalling point for part of the D-Day bombardment fleet.

MODERN AND MEDIEVAL DEFENCES

A

lthough Carrickfergus and the entrance to Belfast Lough was historically defended by the town’s Norman castle, it was superseded by the establishment of two coastal forts in the early 20th century: Kilroot Fort, located about three miles outside Carrickfergus and Grey Point Fort on the opposite shoreline, between Bangor and Holywood. On the 5th September, only two days after war had been declared on Germany, Carrickfergus found itself under fire, albeit

82

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 88

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

indirectly and from none other than Grey Point Fort. The collier SS E. Hayward was en route to Belfast but, due to a lack of radio equipment, the crew had not heard of the outbreak of war and failed to signal to Grey Point Fort upon entering the Lough. Consequently, two plugged shells were fired across its bow, one of which ricocheted off the surface of the water towards Carrickfergus. The Larne Times reported that the shell ended up hitting a wall adjacent to the residence of Mr H. H. Henley, Woodburn. Concerned that a repeat incident might not be so fortuitous and possibly hit petrol storage tanks or set houses on fire, authorities in Carrickfergus requested a trailer fire pump from Belfast.

Up until that point there was no fire engine between Belfast and Larne, nor even a stirrup pump available to deal with such an incident. Evidence that, despite having a well-established ARP, appropriate equipment was lacking. Carrickfergus UDC were subsequently reassured by the General Officer commanding Northern Ireland District, that there would be no recurrence of the incident.

Despite no longer being part of Belfast Lough’s defences, the stone walls of Carrickfergus Castle were still put to good use during the Second World War. After the UDC voted against the erection of five air raid shelters in March 1940, the Town Clerk took advantage of the town’s existing defensive structure and raised the possibility of converting part of Carrickfergus Castle into air raid shelters. It was estimated that between the dungeons and the casemates under the eastern battery, some 2,000 square feet was suitable for conversion. The proposal

Plan of Carrickfergus Castle showing rooms in red selected for conversion into air raid shelters.

Public Record Office Northern Ireland, PRONI FIN/19/19/25

83

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 89

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

was approved by the Ancient Monuments Committee, as was the; erection of external baffle walls; addition of emergency lighting; and conversion of ventilation shafts into emergency exits. They were content that the alterations would not interfere with the ancient fabric of the castle. In total eight rooms were converted, with room for 50 people in each, and upon inspection they were deemed to be ‘the safest [shelters] in Northern Ireland’ by the Ministry of Public Security.

84

Plan and elevation drawings of the conversion of the casemates under the grand battery and the conversion work in red and blue.

Public Record Office Northern Ireland, PRONI FIN/19/19/25

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 90

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

A party of American soldiers leaving Carrickfergus Castle.

Note the air raid shelter sign in the bottom left corner. NARA

In addition, the UDC eventually approved the erection of a further eight air raid shelters, enough for a tenth of the town’s population in the following locations; 1: Irish Quarter West at McShane’s Property 2: Irish Quarter South at Carry’s Corner 3: Ellis Street (upper end) 4: Albert Road (at Cork Hill) 5: Albert Road (between Thomas Street and Prospect Street) 6: Upper Lancasterian Street 7: Scotch Quarter Pier 8: Joymount (shore side) A PLACE OF REFUGE

T

here is no evidence to suggest that Carrickfergus was a target for the Luftwaffe when they attacked Northern Ireland in April and May 1941 and physically, the town was not affected: although four bombs are recorded as being dropped in McCaughan’s fields on Windmill Hill. Given Carrick’s proximity to Belfast, residents can remember the ‘brilliant’ light of flares in the night sky and the noise of the bombs and heavy gunfire. Witnesses also recall that only a few people took refuge in the air raid shelters with most preferring to walk into the nearby hills to get away from the town. Dr. Brian Barton, leading historian on the subject, writes that people fleeing Belfast moved into weekend premises by the sea, with many settling and becoming permanent ratepayers and residents. In the days that followed the attacks, the Belfast Road to Carrick was described as ‘black with refugees’, pushing belongings in wheelbarrows and prams or in bags slung over their shoulders with ‘lost and dazed expressions on their haggard faces.’ A

85

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 91

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

government report calculated that the population of Carrickfergus alone swelled with the arrival of 426 adults and 311 children after the raids; an increase of 17% that left the town, in the opinion of council members as ‘shockingly overcrowded’.

Another effect of the Blitz was that the heavy industries in Belfast began to disperse their production to reduce the damage from any further air raid on the city. Best known for its shipyards, Harland & Wolff also produced 550 tanks, Centaurs, Matildas and Churchills, between August 1939 and November 1943. Following the introduction of the dispersal policy some of these tanks came to be built at a tank assembly depot in Carrickfergus. After a consultation of sites across the country that included the Sullatober Works near Carrick, which had already been taken over by the military in June 1940 as a detention centre, Harland and Wolff initially decided on ICI’s Minorca Works on the edge of Carrickfergus. Early in 1942, at the 11th hour, a decision was made in favour of an alternative site: situated within Carrickfergus, further up the Woodburn Road, just above where the entrance to the Woodburn estate is today. The tank factory, as it came to be known amongst locals, employed between 60 -70 people, but owing to the changing war situation and the demand for tanks being met by American economic might, tank production was curtailed in favour of further Admiralty contracts in late 1943.

The Carrickfergus Harland and Wolff factory no longer exists, but we know its location on the Woodburn Road, Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Museum

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENTS

As the war progressed Northern Ireland’s industrial output steadily improved, unemployment rates dropped and the situation in Carrickfergus reflected this. In addition to those employed in the tank factory, Woodburn Weaving factory

86

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:54 Page 92

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

produced webbing for the armed forces and notably Barn Mills, which had been taken over by Littlewoods of Liverpool, was tasked with turning production towards the manufacture of parachutes. With an abundance of, predominantly female, labour in the area, the mill became the world’s largest parachute factory employing approx. 1,200 workers. In 1945 the workforce stood at 112 males and 1,032 females though records indicate that this labour was not always reliable.

Absenteeism was a major ongoing issue and compared to Littlewood’s Manchester factory, production was slow. A typical employee in the Manchester factory could produce eight or nine parachutes a day, however, the average daily output at Barn Mills was only four. Despite these issues Barn Mills manufactured over three million individual articles including parachutes, flying suits and Mae Wests.

Staff at Littlewoods factory, Barn Mills, 1946. Carrickfergus Museum

Distribution of gas mask in Carrickfergus Town Hall, 1939.

Carrickfergus Museum

87

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 93

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

Besides those who volunteered for the Civil Defence services and those employed by industries working for the war effort, local men also volunteered to join the 3rd Antrim Battalion of the Ulster Home Guard. In February 1942, the company responsible for Carrickfergus, along with Marshalstown, Whiteabbey and Greenisland, numbered 206 men. By 1944 they were trained to use the anti-aircraft batteries at Neills Lane and Kilroot Fort as weekend relief for the regular soldiers.

In addition to these troops based at Kilroot and those guarding the ordnance depot on Antrim Street, camps also existed at Rosebrook and Sunnylands off the North Road.

Ulster Home Guard Carrick Troop Song that is sung to the tune of the Sash. NIWM:2016.2118.1

88

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 94

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

Ulster Home Guard 3rd Antrim Battalion at Scout Bush House, Trooperslane,Carrickfergus. NIWM:2019.2484

Local Civil Defence Volunteers marching in Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Museum

VISITING BATTALIONS

F

ollowing America’s entry into the war in December 1941 and the arrival of American service personnel in January 1942, Sunnylands camp became the first home of the only American army unit to be established overseas. Major William O. Darby, aide to General Russel P. Hartle, was sanctioned in June 1942 to train an American version of the British Commando units, the 1st Battalion US Rangers. At Sunnylands, the original 1,500 volunteers were whittled down to 600 before they moved to Scotland for further training. Other than the Rangers, Carrick was host to several other American military units that included; the 56th Signal Battalion; 112th Engineer Combat Regiment; and other rear echelon troops such as laundry and gas supply battalions. At their peak, the number of US servicemen within Northern Ireland was equal to a tenth of the entire population. Unsurprisingly they made a huge social impact.

89

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 95

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

Across Northern Ireland it is estimated that around 1,800 women became GI brides and Carrickfergus was no exception.

Margaret Burton from Irish Quarter West married Lieutenant Ivor McKay at St Nicholas’ Church on 23rd December 1944 and was the first GI Bride to leave Carrickfergus for America.

The town and its inhabitants made a particular impression on African American personnel that were based nearby, with one reporting anonymously to the Northern Irish Parliament that ‘Carrickfergus [was] the only town in Northern Ireland we like[d] because when we visited there we were treated like humans.’

Every US soldier was provided with a Pocket Guide to NI that advised them on what to expect in the country and how to get on with locals. A view from Carrickfergus Castle features along with a caption of historical links between the US and the town. Carrickfergus Museum

US troops first game at Woodburn, Carrickfergus dated March 6th 1942. PRONI D/2334/6/12/136

US Ambassador John G. Winant with General G. Chaney, General Russell P. Hartle, Captain K.I. Grimes, (Medical Detachment 63rd Signal Battalion) and Lieutenant L.A. Keisler (Adjutant 63rd Signal Battalion) at Sunnylands Camp during February 1942. Carrickfergus Museum

90

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 96

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

American troops were not the only Allied personnel that came to be based in the area. In early 1945 five Belgian Brigades arrived in Northern Ireland to train, with No. 3 Rumbeke Brigade based around east Antrim, including at Carrickfergus.

Companies and battalions that made up the Brigade were based at various sites such as Sunnylands, Prospect House, Castle Dobbs and further out from the town, at Red Hall and Dalriada House. The Women’s Voluntary Service (WVS) who had premises on West Street and in which Mrs Henley of Prospect House was involved, regularly served tea in the Methodist Hall for the Allied troops in the town. Unlike their American and local allies, the Belgians only drank cocoa, so the WVS served them in Mount St Nicholas’ Hall where, the only practical way to meet demand was to make it in the sink.

Carrickfergus Town Hall and other venues regularly held dances to entertain troops and locals alike but as with other areas of NI where there were many troops based, there was inevitably problems.

Map of east Antrim showing locations of 3rd Belgian Brigade. NIWM:2019.2426.01

91

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 97

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

IT WASN’T ALL TEA AND COCOA

W

ilson’s Court, or ‘Buckingham Palace’ as it was known to locals, was situated in Irish Quarter South and gained a notorious reputation during the Second World War. The town was said to be ‘scandalised’ after Military Police, coming under attack from above by unpleasant fluids, raided the establishment one night with soldiers being turned out in varying states of disarray. A guard was then placed upon the building: yet once relieved of his duties, he entered the ‘Palace’ by the back door much to the amusement of the giggling young townsfolk watching on. Due to its reputation, no one wanted to live there, even in the post war housing crisis, and so it became derelict and was eventually demolished.

LEST WE FORGET

A

s with much Second World War built heritage across Northern Ireland, little remains of what once was, and what does remain is rarely used for its original purpose, if at all.

Many such constructions were only designed to be temporary, to serve a purpose for the duration of the war. For example, a detailed tender consisting of 19 clauses exists for the demolition of the air raid shelters within Carrickfergus Castle to ensure that it was returned to its pre-war state. Barn Mills and the Sullatober Works still exist but have been converted to serve more modern purposes, while the hutted camps at Rosebrook and Sunnylands were developed in the immediate post war period to help alleviate the housing crisis, and have since been rebuilt again as Sunnylands housing estate.

Map showing huts converted into temporary housing at Rosebrook Camp. PRONI FIN/19/24/26

92

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 98

CARRICKFERGUS AND WWII

What is clear however, is that Carrickfergus has a rich and diverse Second World War history: it is unfortunately poorly reflected by the surviving built heritage of the era remaining in the town. This overview is drawn from what has been recorded and preserved, and does not reflect on the many thousands of experiences of those that were employed in the war effort, who witnessed the Blitz or experienced loss and whose stories have sadly been lost to time. But the town, perhaps more than any other in Northern Ireland, upholds its memorials acknowledging the role played by the people of Carrickfergus in the Second World War, ensuring their actions are not forgotten.

The Knockagh Monument which is dedicated to those from County Antrim who died in both world wars overlooks the town; a restored Churchill tank, as built by Harland & Wolff on the Woodburn Road, is situated on the Marine Highway in a nod to the town’s contribution to the war effort; and it sits alongside the more traditional memorial to those from the town that were killed in both worldwide conflicts. Additionally, a pair of stone boots and accompanying plaque sits at Henly Gate, the only remaining section of Prospect House and a large memorial stone is situated in the Sunnylands housing estate, in memory of the Belgians and US Rangers that were based at the site. This, however, only serves to place further importance on those few sites from the era that do remain. As the Second World War does eventually pass from living memory, they will be the last tangible link available to communities, such as Carrickfergus, and the role it played within the war: the onus is on the communities and local authorities to protect and preserve them.

93

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:55 Page 99

POST WAR CARRICKFERGUS

WHAT DOES EVERYONE LOVE ABOUT CARRICKFERGUS Answers on the back of a postcard….

ks shop, I loved Fanny’s Froc spent in many a pound was time when there. That was the the rage smock tops were all

We did a fashio n show from Fanny’s Frock s clothes shop in Downshire, wit h all the pupils

The shops were buzzing, you could have don e all your shopping here. ', Carrickfergus,

It's A Knockout

', Carrickfergus,

It's A Knockout

23 April 1978

23 April 1978

I used to buy d resses in McKowns and Penny’s. We used to put a d eposit on a purchase and p ay it off and th en it was ours – n o charge cards!

It's A Knockout', Carrickfergus, 23 April 1978

94

Go Cart racing

970s

Carrickfergus c1

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:56 Page 100

OUR TOWN

My favourite m emory as a chil d granda taking me to the castle is my Saturday mor on a ning and tellin g me stories about th e soldiers who li ve there. My neig hbour used to be d caretaker of the the ca tell me ghost st stle and he used to ories

ck Carrick week gus as part of Ba fer ck rri Ca , est Pie eating cont

IN 1972 there w as a bomb that destroyed lower North Street, it blew out window s of Market Place and West Street

Medieval parade

ghnasa Fair

as part of the Lu

Love the friend ly atmosphere, also love to look out at the boats on the lough. V ery much like Scotland

y money I used to save all m e boxing day and spend it at th ctory – they sale at the fun fa s had amazing toy

Cycle race on Carrickfergus High Street

when I was 6 – Moved to Carrick e to row in the my dad taught m d t be able to harbour – you use ld be great to hire boats…it wou have that back

Charlie Smiley, Red Brae Road, Milebush, Solo bike

race

g into town and I remember walkin ncing around seeing everyone da declared over. the Bell. War was was very I was seven and it tirling exciting Laura S 95

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:56 Page 101

POST WAR CARRICKFERGUS OUR TOWN

I like Carrickfe rgus because there is a castle to explore Isla Halliday

fergus, 1976 Raft race, Carrick

The castle here is magical.

We love looking out over the sea!

the bomb I remember the day everyone was went off. Luckily no one was late that day and acle Terry hurt. It was a mir Windsor

Raft race, Carrickfergus, 1976

ft Playing Minecra at the museum

1970s Tour of the North

Tug of war, c.1980

As a young ch ild, regular vis its to the Carrick, fish ing from the pi er, catching mack erel. Watching the ships and remem bering the Rad io Tower on the pi er 96

ged kfergus has chan Apparently Carric ’s it e, st like any plac over the years…ju ’ll it mes; but I suspect seen good & bad ti place been) a beautiful s ha (& be s ay w al t, a ountains in sigh with the sea and m lf place to lose yourse

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:56 Page 102

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS: OUR TOWN

At Windsor Ele ct came to get thei ronics everyone r doesn’t happen T.V.s fixed, this anymore, people are so quick to throw things away

nd, Town Hall ice in Wonderla 18 July 1988. Al

My father used to get the children to sell fish outside Anchor Inn ‘A skein of fish

and Philip, een Elizabeth II or at ay August 1961, Qu Royal Visit, 8thrgh, Queen walking with the m Duke of Edinbucastle Carrickfergus

I really like the history in the c astle

and the When Courtaulds Carrick, it factories closed on over 5,000 was devastating, bs people lost their jo

West Street Carnival September 1992

arly ickfergus to live ne We moved to Carr it. d te et d have not regr two years later an and l iendly and helpfu The people are so fr fresh beautiful and the the lough shore is grets re no health. SO air is good for your le op end it to those pe and would recomm relocate. who would like to

Brown's Blacks theatrical group, Conductor Joe Holme

s

ers spent Childhood summ arine with friends in M sports & Gardens playing ntain with filling the old fou ! washing up liquid 97

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:56 Page 103

POST WAR CARRICKFERGUS OUR TOWN

I came to Carric kfergus becaus e I got a job here…

I never left. I love it, it’s hom e. The 1 thing is the sea views everyday.

s BB, 1961 3rd Carrickfergu

I like going in looking aroundand castle. It’s nice the to see the boats too!

Ballycarry players, actors on stage including R.H.MacCandless

‘I love the cinem a and going out for dinner, there is always lots to do!’ Kati e Hegarty and Lacy Bell

98

cle lived in My aunt and un ere the the castle – they w y son warden keepers. M sy’s castle thought it was Dai

Carrickfergus ladies’ hockey club, 1910

opened In 1979 the yea I ics my mother Windsor Electron support me Greta was there to Terry Windsor

Last baby born in Carrickfergus Hospital, Octobe

r 1988

okery lessons There used to be co h Street on a at the tech on Hig Tuesday

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:57 Page 104

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS: OUR TOWN

My mother was born in Carrickfergus as was I, and I went to th e original Model School

0s ing meal, c.197 ICI workers even

‘I remember play ing out at Rhan boy as a child and hurt my leg qu ite badly one day… when I returned home my mother cove red it in goose fat!’

Terry Windsor

Highway Before the Marine ld have was built, we wou ore played down the sh

ICI group shot

igrated to Canada My granny imm s old. n she was 21 year around 1958 whe about how magical She always talked uch they didn’t have m , as w s gu er kf ic Carr as were happy. She w money, but they for Carrickfergus always homesick

Eric M. Windsor’s shop

onal pictures Carreras promoti

There used to be dances in the IO GT Hall. The build ing is now at C ultra and some of th e artefacts are on display in Carr ickfergus Muse um

arrickfergus in When I moved to C with the view of 1981, I fell in love ument from the Knockagh mon ria my house in Victo Sylvia Haliday 99

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:57 Page 105

POST WAR CARRICKFERGUS

Shafetsbury P ark was a lovel y place to walk a nd a great place to roll boiled eg gs at Easter

and in their hardware my McCartney Bertie and Jim , c1940s. decorating shop

As an ex beat p sense of comm oliceman, the great, everyoneunity was other and we ha knew each relationship witd a good h the people in the town

McCartney’s Bros Hardware and Decorating shop, c1950s

England was be ing to change qu ite a lot in the early ‘90s , and we diced w e would have a better way of life here in N I and settled in Carric kfergus. It did ta ke us a while to settle as it is so much m or e relaxed here, but new so on fell in love w ith the town and the castle’ 100

like the Some people don’t , but it did Marine Highway ht against stop the houses rig ded the shore being floo

John Palmer, former caretaker of Carrickfergus Castle, 1954-1978

e People had to use th yone phone box, not ever had a phone line

McCartney’s Bros Hardware and Decorating shop,

McCartney Bros in action at Joymount c.1940s

c1940s

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:57 Page 106

Terry and Patricia Windsor playing on the sea shore

epair

hoe R sons S

obin

Joe at R

Mazey D arrah

Children of c.1950s Carrick

Lizy Powers

101

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:57 Page 107

Illustration showing what Carrickfergus may been like during the medieval period. Carrickfergus Museum

Illustration showing how Carrickfergus developed under the rule of Sir Arthur Chichester in the 17th century. Carrickfergus Museum

102

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:57 Page 108

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

Map of Carrickfergus, c.1560. BL Cotton Augustus I II 42

101

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:58 Page 109

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

FREE

Strapline and explanatory text

Map of Carrickfergus, c.1567 by Robert Lythe. Trinity College Dublin, MS 1209 (26)

104

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:58 Page 110

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

105

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:58 Page 111

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

FREE

Strapline and explanatory text

Map of Carrickfergus, c. 1596.

Public Record Office, London, MPF 1/98 106

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:58 Page 112

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

107

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:58 Page 113

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

FREE

Strapline and explanatory text

Map of Carrickfergus, c.1685 y Thomas Philips. National Library of Ireland., MS 3137 (42))

108

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 114

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

109

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 115

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

FREE

Strapline and explanatory text

1st Ordnance map of Carrickfergus, c.1832. Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland (OSNI®) maps were reproduced from Land and Property Services data with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, Crown copyright and database rights MOU.

110

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 116

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

111

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 117

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

FREE

Strapline and explanatory text

114

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 118

EARLY HISTORY OF CARRICKFERGUS:

FREE

Street map of Carrickfergus. Ordnance Survey Northern Ireland 115

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:59 Page 119

Address to Paul Rodgers from the workers at his shipyard. Carrickfergus Museum

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 17:00 Page 120

SUGGESTED READING 1896. The Lifeboat 2 November pp.655 1991. Stop at the Tramway Bridge. Carrickfergus: Workers Educational Association: Oral History Group 1992. Return to Carrick Please. Carrickfergus: Workers Educational Association: Oral History Group Adamson, J. 1992. Freemasonry in Carrickfergus, Carrickfergus and District Historical Society Journal, Vol. 6, 35-42 Barton, B. 2015. The Belfast Blitz: The City in the War Years. Belfast: Ulster Historical Foundation Blake, J. W. 1956. Northern Ireland in the Second World War. John W. Blake Childs, J. 2007 The Williamite Wars in Ireland, 1688-1691. London: Hambeldon Cintinuum Coughlan, T. 2001 ‘The Anglo-Norman houses of Dublin: evidence from Back Lane’ in Duffy. S. (ed.).

Medieval Dublin 1: Proceedings of the Friends of Medieval Dublin Symposium 1999, 203-233. Dublin: Four Courts Press Campbell, G. and Crowther, C. 1975-78/1980 Ulster Architectural Heritage Society. Historic Buildings, Groups of Buildings and Areas of Architectural Importance in the Town of Carrickfergus. Belfast: Ulster Architectural Heritage Society. Revised edition by Campbell, G. and Gunn-King, B.J. in 1980.

Cleary, R.M. and Hurley, M.F. 2003 Excavations in Cork City 1984–2000. Cork: Cork City Council Delaney, T.G. ‘Entry No. 3. 33-37 High Street’ in DeLaney. T.G. (ed.). 1976 Excavations 1974.

Summary accounts of Archaeological work in Ireland, 7-8. Belfast: Litho Printers Drew, T. 1872. The Ancient Church of St. Nicholas, Carrickfergus, Diocese of Connor: A Report to the Right Rev. Robert Knox, D.D., Lord Bishop of Down and Connor and Dromore. Belfast: W. Erskine Mayne Fitzpatrick, E., O’Brien, M. and Walsh, P. (eds.) 2004. Archaeological investigations in Galway City, 1987– 1998. Bray: Wordwell Books Friel, C. P. 1995. Some notes on the Railways of Carrickfergus, Carrickfergus and District Historical Journal, Vol. 8, 28-35

Givens, J. 2008. Irish Walled Towns. Dublin: The Liffey Press Grenville, J. 1997. Medieval Housing. Leicester: Leicester University Press Hurley, M.F., Scully O.M.B. and McCutcheon, S,W.J. (eds.). 1997. Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: excavations 1986-1992. Waterford: Waterford Corporation

115

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 17:00 Page 121

Lucy, G. 3004. The Duke of Schomberg: European Soldier. William’s General (Explorations in Religion, History and Culture). Belfast: Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland McConnell, C. & Bishop, R. (eds.). 2015. Mrs Coe’s Carrickfergus; Memories of a Carrickfergus Childhood Beyond the Graveyard Walls. Carrickfergus: Carrickfergus and District Historical Society.

MacNeice, L. 1996. The Strings Are False. London: Faber and Faber McNeill, T. E. 1980 Anglo-Norman Ulster. Edinburgh: John Donald Publishers Ltd MacNeill, T.E. 1981 Carrickfergus Castle. Belfast: HMSO MacNeill, T.E. 2007 Castles in Ireland. Feudal Power in a Gaelic World. London (Routledge).

Milligan, C. F. 1980. Bangor and Belfast Lough yesterday & Today. Bangor: Spectator Newspaper

Nelson, E. C. & Rankin, D. H. 1991. Curious in Everything: Career of Arthur Dobbs of Carrickfergus, 1689-1765. Carrickfergus: Carrickfergus & District Historical Society Ó Baoill, R. 1993. Recent excavations in Medieval Carrickfergus. Carrickfergus and District Historical Journal, Vol. 7, 54- 63. Ó Baoill, R. 1998 Further excavations in Medieval Carrickfergus, Carrickfergus and District Historical Journal, Vol. 9, 25- 32. Ó Baoill, R. 2008 Carrickfergus-The Story of the Castle and Walled Town. Belfast: TSO Ireland for the Northern Ireland Environment Agency Ó Baoill, R. 2009. St. Nicholas’ Church, Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim, Archaeology Ireland Heritage Guide No. 43.

Robinson, P. 1986. Irish Historic Towns Atlas No.2: Carrickfergus. Dublin: Royal Irish Academy Samuel, L. 1837. Topographical dictionary of Ireland, Volume 1. London: S. Lewis & Co. Speers, S. 1989. Under the Big Lamp: historic photographs of the county and town of Carrickfergus. Belfast: Friars Bush Press Thompson, J. T. 1988/9. Memories of childhood in Carrickfergus, Carrickfergus and District Historical Journal, Vol. 4, 6-10 Weir, D. 2014. The Church Outside the Walls: a history of Joymount Presbyterian Church, 1852-2012.

Carrickfergus

116

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 17:00 Page 122

Wright, R. & Wright, E. 1993. Carrickfergus Rectory and Louis MacNeice: his home and ours, Carrickfergus and District Historical Journal, Vol. 7, 21-31

Sources: Annual Report of The Commissioners of National Education Census of Ireland 1861 Dobbs Richard “Mayor’s Diaries 1683” Lloyds Register of Shipping, London - Registers 1861 to 1893 Ordnance Survey of Ireland 1831 The General Evaluation of Rateable Property -Carrickfergus 1861 1st Presbyterian Church Carrickfergus — Marriage Register 1856 Richard Dobbs & John Logan, Records of Carrickfergus as copied from the old books of Records by Richard Dobbs, tr. John Logan, available to view at Carrickfergus Library.

Elizabeth J. McCrum & Samuel McSkimin, The History and Antiquities of the County of the Town of Carrickfergus, From the Earliest Records Till 1839, see online https://archive.org/details/historyantiquiti00mcskiala/page/n8, MEA, ‘Carrickfergus Town Records: short calendar for researchers’ at https://www.midandeastantrim.gov.uk/downloads/Carrick_Town_Records_for_publication_ red.pdf Carrickfergus in 1690: Minecraft Reconstruction https://www.planetminecraft.com/project/17th-century-carrickfergus/ www.flameworks.co.uk www.theglasgowstory.com Public Record Office NI: https://www.nidirect.gov.uk/services/search-pronis-ecatalogue COM/61/541 FIN/19/19/25 COM/61/765 D2334/6/12/132 MPS/2/3/55 CAB/CD/225/19

117

COVER IMAGE: BL COTTON AGUSTUS I II 42

Carrick across the centuries Book-120pgs.qxp_Layout 1 10/03/2020 16:43 Page 3

Carrick Book cover.qxp_Layout 1 17/03/2020 14:46 Page 1

MEDIEVAL ARCHTECTURE

THIS IS THE AREA FOR THE

TITLE OF THE STORY Area for the author

02

02

Edited by Laura Patrick-Dawson