FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH

Bouvardia Restaurant

Bathen House, 88 Newbridge Hill, Bath BA1 3QA; Tel: 01225 805549; bathenhouse.co.uk

R E V I E W

Emma Clegg trips the light fantastic at a restaurant within a new luxury boutique hotel and enjoys some strawberry dust

The months since mid-March have been quivering, despite their mainly sunshine-infused character, from an electric shock of pandemic proportions, and they took us back to basics, not least on the food stakes. We made the most of it, cooking en singleton or en famille, boosted by masked, socially distanced trips to grocers and food stores. While the lockdown experience had its positives – more time for cookin g, and even sharing meals around the f amily table – we’ve all been pleased to move on, and rediscover a foodie joie de vivre that doesn’t involve a home oven, a cheese grater or a carrot. Thankfully, heavenly, escape-thedomestic-fray food destinations are now back on the menu (an inside out metaphor) and they can’t be dismissed by the rule of six.

Take Bouvardia at the luxury boutique hotel Bathen House on Newbridge Hill. The hotel and restaurant had a challenging start –launched in January this year, and then dislocated a couple of months later into the familiar territory of no customers, no serving of food, no business. The hotel and the restaurant have been back since early July, and – for those of us who were surviving on meals with a what’s-left-in-the-fridge vibe – dining here really is a refreshin g shot in the arm.

I f you’ve seen the Bathen House website with its uber-luxurious accommodation with large rooms with a glow of light-filled serenity and shimmering with film star magic and rainbow showers, your expectations will be high. The styling is there – Bathen House and its restaurant Bouvardia has a dreamy sense of out-of-this-world. Its interiors are pale, luminous, bathed in light and warmth, th anks to its large windows and in the case of the restaurant a single-storey rear extension with roof lanterns and mirrored walls. Light aside, its styling is classic, with glistening chandaliers, densely buttoned upholstery and draped, tasselled curtains. The restaurant almost feels as if it’s hung on a sunshine cloud, with its infusion of reflected light, poetic flower arrangements, tables with starched w hite cloths and, as a f inale touch, a large white rose nestling inside an upright glass dome on each table (I did actually want to set it free).

Let’s get to the food. Robert Zalus, the executive chef behind the menu, who has most recently been masterminding the offerings at Bill’s and Brown’s in Bath, draws his food style from his travels. He describes it as traditional British, but with twists of Asian o r northern Europe, or any of the other regions in his armoury. The menu is seasonal, and compact, but covering most preferences. Vegans are catered for – there was vegan bruschetta with rocket, radish, cherry tomatoes and artichokes and for mains a tartine with shallots, tomato, vegan blue cheese, rocket and red pesto. I can vouch for the latter, which was an uplifting light summer dish to have on a sunny evening.

T he service was solicitous and smooth, managed by an unassuming waiter who did appear to glide from table to table. For starters, we both opted for mini pots of deliciousness – a smoked mackerel mousse, dill mustard sauce and pickled cucumber, and a confit garlic and shallot chicken terrine with apple and cider brandy relish, each served with organic rye bread. (Both incidentally served on plates with three c urved sides that defied the balancing of a knife… interesting.) Crispy skin seabass was our other main, with cauliflower tabbouleh and chilli lime mango sauce, which I could see delivered on presentation and I’m advised by the eater of fish scored high on gastronomic impact too.

The carnivorous could choose from duck breast with fondant potatoes and marinated pear, wine and raspberry sauce, or herb and Parmesan pork tenderloin with beetroot purée and goat’s cheese mousse. The plates were poised and beautiful, I’d say nouvelle plus (not that that’s a thing), artistic and not stinting on content or flavour. We also enjoyed a Flagstone 2017 'Longitude' Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec (£27) with a pleasant flavour of dark berries and spices – the wine list isn’t extensive, but this fitted nicely.

T he end of the evening brought dulce de l eche sundae with mascarpone, summer fruits, whipped cream and crackers – which arrived in a dramatically angled glass dish that looked as if it was defying gravity – and strawberry semifreddo with caramel sauce and strawberry dust – for visual impact think a Rothko painting in the round – and both dishes were dressed with colour coordinating violas, no less.

There we re no sharp edges to our evening. F inishing a meal in a cloud with strawberry dust and freshly brewed coffee might feel all up in the air, but it was a real experience on a Thursday evening and the kitchen, thank goodness, was out of bounds. n

Two courses: £24.50; three courses £34.50 Bouvardia Restaurant is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm, with last food orders taken up to 9pm.