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The Finest Guide to the City

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EDITION No12 B AT H | E N G L A N D | A U T U M N / W I N T E R 2 6 / 2 7

£15

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CONTENTS / AUTUMN/WINTER 26/27

In this edition TO OPEN:

City updates, news and essential information to help make the most of your stay

Get to know Bath with our map of the city

Zeitgeist – city updates, cultural events and seasonal happenings

12–24 hours in Bath. How to spend your time

Timeline – From the legend of Bladud to Bath Rugby winning the triple! Here’s a rundown of the important dates in the city’s history

Bath is home to many little museums of special interest. Here’s our mini guide

Get in that festive spirit with Bath’s brilliant Christmas Market

Do any of Bath’s streets or buildings look familiar? Yep, you’ve seen them take a starring role on the TV and the silver screen

Start a cultural tour of the city’s arts scene at The Holburne… Yes, it is Lady Danbury’s house

POSTCARDS:

Guided tours of the city’s attractions and places of interest

One of Britain’s most popular visitor attractions: The Roman Baths

Enjoy the breathtaking vista of the Royal Crescent

Known as the ‘Lantern of the West’ – a guided tour through the past, present and future of Bath Abbey

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64 92

Explore the Victoria Art Gallery, home to a remarkable collection of paintings, sculpture and decorative arts

HISTORY:

Some wonderful features from the local archives

The men who built Bath: Ralph Allen, Beau Nash and the architectural vision of John Wood the Elder and John Wood the Younger

Dr Felicity James takes a look at Jane Austen’s time in Bath and the effect the city had on her work

how our Georgian 100 Discover forebears dressed to impress, with pale complexions, towering wigs and all the hidden health hazards Bath’s dark and 130 Explore gothic literary past with some of the most influential writers of the last 250 years

The rich and fascinating history of The American Museum & Gardens

– ’tis the season 134 Saturnalia to be jolly... The Romans

Enjoy afternoon tea and high society with a visit to the Pump Room

Now in its third 136 incarnation, the Theatre

Bath’s thermal 104 Discover waters, from their ancient origins to the luxurious pools of Thermae Bath Spa

certainly knew how to party

Royal Bath reminds us that the show must go on ‘Romeo’ Coates – the 138 Robert worst ever actor. It’s a great story, and quite hilarious!

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CONTENTS / AUTUMN/WINTER 26/27

CITY TREATS:

Snippets of indulgent fun and activities to make your stay special

A selection of precious delights from Mallory, the oldest jewellers in Bath

76 98

108

70 74

Meet Tessa Brand, whose beautiful Bath boutique offers exquisite lingerie, beachwear and nightwear

Time for some retail therapy. Take a tour of Bath’s excellent shopping scene with our guide to the city’s best shops

dining without the 116 Fine formality. We meet Martin

Try the gift shop! Little souvenirs to take home as a memento of your visit? Here are some popular gift choices

into the extraordinary 140 Step world of magician Billy

selection of books inspired by the city

CITY PEOPLE:

fine dining to casual bistros and the coolest eateries like the nightlife: the 142 We very best places in Bath to venture out after dark and be thoroughly entertained

Kidd, where illusion, intrigue and a little mischief make for an unforgettable show

FOOD & DRINK:

It’s vibrant, international and delicious. Bath has a phenomenal choice when it comes to eating out

Enjoy a great cup of coffee and a tempting slice of delicious cake at one of Bath’s top coffee shops

Afternoon tea: our guide to the best places to ‘raise a pinky’ and how to take tea in total style

A collection of conversations with the folk that aim to please city visitors Bath Rugby’s much-loved mascot Maximus tells us all about his life as the club’s resident lion

your tour of the city’s 112 Start gastronomic delights, from

Blake, the chef bringing fresh ideas and seasonal flavours to Montagu’s Mews

Spa city: a round-up of a few relaxing spots for a good pampering session

is a city with 133 Bath stories to tell. Discover a

Bath has a glittering reputation for fine jewellery and independent craftsmanship. We meet the city’s talented makers

On the cover: The Roman Steam Room at Thermae Bath Spa, where Bath’s ancient bathing traditions meet modern wellbeing, features a striking mosaic of Sulis Minerva that evokes the city’s rich Roman heritage. Image courtesy of Thermae Bath Spa. Photography by Paolo Ferla

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POSTCARD from

BATH

From the Editor

WELCOME

TO BATH

ath has a particular charm in the winter months. The days may be chilly, but when the low afternoon sun catches the honey-coloured stone, the city looks as though someone has turned up the goldenhour setting. Even the occasional downpour has its compensations – there’s always a welcoming café, cosy pub or rather good restaurant just around the corner. And there’s certainly no shortage of things to do. Wander through centuries of remarkable architecture, explore the city’s museums and galleries, indulge in a little retail therapy or enjoy an evening at the theatre. And... if all that sounds exhausting, there’s always the option of slipping into Bath’s naturally warm thermal waters and doing absolutely nothing for a while. Frankly, that’s got to be compulsory! Of course, as the festive season approaches, Bath becomes particularly magical. A German friend introduced me to the wonderfully expressive word Vorweihnachtszeit – the period leading up to Christmas. It sounds far more sophisticated than our ‘run-up to Christmas’, although I suspect both involve shopping, large cups of glühwein and wondering where the year has gone. Our much-loved Bath Christmas Market returns from 26 November to 13 December, filling the city centre with festive cheer, independent makers and irresistible treats. But Christmas is only part of the story; Bath has plenty to offer throughout the quieter winter weeks and well into the new year.

Publishing Editor Steve Miklos E: steve@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Editorial Contributors, feature writers and photography: Melissa Blease, Jenny McAuley, Dr Felicity James, Georgette McCready, Jessica Hope, Catherine Pitt, Dara Foley, Crystal Rose, Joe Short, Paolo Ferla.

Advertising Sales Liz Grey E: liz@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Production Manager Jeff Osborne E: jeff@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Finance Director Jane Miklos E: jane@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Postcard, as the name suggests, is a collection of experiential notes and personal accounts delivered by those who really know this wonderful city of ours. Rather than the usual tourist-guide formula, our talented writers have explored its history, culture, characters and curiosities, while we’ve included plenty of practical information to help you make the most of your visit. So, wherever your wanderings take you, enjoy this pretty little city we’re fortunate enough to call home. Enjoy your stay. Return sometime soon. Steve M.

MC PUBLISHING LIMITED

2 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Telephone: 01225 424499 © MC Publishing Ltd 2026

ABOUT US For more than two decades we have been publishing The Bath Magazine – the city’s biggest monthly magazine. During that time we have amassed an extensive library of information and knowledge with some of the best writers and writing on Bath, its history and the places and people that make the city a great destination. Postcard from Bath is a compendium of new features and reworked articles and just about everything else we know and love about Bath.

All rights reserved. This publication is copyright and may not be reproduced in any form, either in part or whole without written permission from the publisher. Opinions expressed in articles are strictly those of the authors. All information contained in this publication is, as far as we are aware, factually correct at the time of going to press. MC Publishing Limited cannot accept responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies in such information. Whilst every reasonable care is taken with all material submitted to The Postcard from Bath, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for loss or damage to such material. MC Publishing Limited endeavours to respect the intellectual property of any owner of copyrighted material reproduced in this publication. If any copyright holder has been wrongly accredited, please contact us.

FSC LOGO

And, if you want to be informed about everything good going on in Bath, visit: thebathmagazine.co.uk

8 / POSTCARD from BATH

Please enjoy and recycle this publication but if you are not able to participate in a recycling scheme, then why not pass your copy to a friend or colleague.

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➤

GETTING AROUND

Cavendish R

MAP / PLACES TO VISIT IN BATH

WESTON ROAD

Pulteney Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 ..

Everyman Cinema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7. .

Sally Lunn’s House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 .. Beckford’s Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ..

UP PE R

To B

ris

BR IST OL

tol

PARKS

RO AD

UPPE

Alexandra Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1. .

Old Theatre Royal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 .. The American Museum & Gardens. . . . . .12 .. Victoria Art Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 ..

Wa y

Bath Racecourse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 ..

HA YE

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

LO WE

RIS

TO L

Blgs.

Crazy Golf and Tennis Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 .. Prior Park Landscape Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 .. Thermae Bath Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 .. Bath Rugby at the Rec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5. . World Heritage Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6. .

Low er O

ldfi

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Lower Oldfield Park

WALK THE CITY Upp er

Average walking times:

OL D FIEL D

Bath Spa Station to Bath Abbey = 8 minutes Bath Abbey to Holburne Museum = 15 minutes Bath Abbey to Royal Crescent = 20 minutes

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= 5 minutes

Cre or fol k

Victori a

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scent.

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e. ead Tc

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Museum of Bath Stone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 ..

Syde

No. 1 Royal Crescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ..

To Bristol

Botanical Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8. .

Museum of Bath at Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 .. Museum of East Asian Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ..

rt Ave.

Museum of Bath Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ..

Sydney Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7. .

Stothe

BR OU GH A

Jane Austen Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 ..

Royal Victoria Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6. .

ON AV

Holburne Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 ..

Parade Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5. .

Herschel Museum of Astronomy . . . . . . . . . 3 ..

Henrietta Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4. .

Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein . . . 2 ..

Hedgemead Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3. .

ace

Bath Royal Literary & Scientific Institution . .1 ..

Nelson Pl

Green Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2. .

➨

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

R BRIS TOL

RD.

Oldf ield P

The Mission Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 ..

The Circus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ..

ROYA

rfo

The Little Theatre Cinema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 ..

Royal Crescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 ..

ING

Rondo Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 ..

BUIL D

Assembly Rooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 ..

ROUG H

Odeon Cinema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 ..

MAR LBO

The Pump Rooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 ..

Royal Victoria Park

ANE

Komedia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 ..

Bath Abbey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ..

ROU G

Theatre Royal Bath, Egg & Ustinov . . . . .1 ..

LBO

Roman Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 ..

The Botanical Gardens

MAR

THEATRE & ENTERTAINMENT

➨

HISTORICAL SITES

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Cavendish Rd

➨

MAP / PLACES TO VISIT IN BATH

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ZEITGEIST / WHAT’S ON What’s on and things to do

Good food and live music

Green Park Brasserie and the Bath Pizza Co. in the old Green Park Station invites their guests to enjoy great food, drink and live music. The venue supports local food producers and offers a menu using quality from rib-eye steak sourced from Newton Farm and braised beef bourguignon pie to truffle and goat’s cheese pizza. Every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings (from 6pm to 9pm) the brasserie offers live music and candlelit dining. The music from the very best artists in Bath and Bristol includes modern funk trios, hot club jazz bands, acoustic soul and swing. Bookings and walk-ups available.

Web: greenparkbrasserie.com

That festive feeling Visit The American Museum & Gardens for an uplifting Christmas experience

Grand days out at Dyrham Park National Trust’s Dyrham Park, eight miles north of Bath, is nestled in a 270-acre ancient parkland filled with magnificent trees and breathtaking views reaching right over to Wales. The parkland is home to a herd of fallow deer. Inside the baroque-style house visitors can get a flavour of 17th-century life with a fine collection of Dutch ceramics and art. In the garden you can see the formality of 17th century style planting in borders which contrasts with the pool gardens, informal orchards and wooded terraces. There’s a parkland play area for children. Take a garden or parkland guided tour or a self-led trail. There’s a large tea-room, parkland cafe, shop and second-hand bookshop. Look out, too, for a changing programme of seasonal activities and festive events. Open daily except 24 and 25 December. Check the website for opening times, events and any partial closures. Web: nationaltrust.org.uk/dyrham-park

Throughout December, discover the festive charm of Claverton Manor, the Georgian manor house at the American Museum & Gardens, adorned with a magnificent Christmas tree and beautiful decorations. Explore the winter gardens and enjoy seasonal treats at the American Garden Deli. On 4 and 5 December, award-winning singer Clare Teal brings her Festive Fiesta to the museum, with a sparkling evening of swing and Christmas favourites. Then, on 8, 9 and 10 December, The Three Inch Fools present Dickens’ A Christmas Carol in the Stables, combining music, illusion and storytelling for a wonderfully atmospheric festive treat.

Web: americanmuseum.org

Peter Pan on Ice 23 December 2026 – 3 January 2027

Image: Casper Farrell

Fly away to Neverland for a dazzling Christmas adventure as Peter Pan, Wendy and the fearsome Captain Hook take to the ice at the Bath Forum, Featuring champion skaters, spectacular choreography and breathtaking aerial displays, this magical production brings J. M. Barrie’s timeless tale to life in a whirlwind of colour, excitement and icy escapades. Web: bathforum.co.uk

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Image © National Trust Images/Steve Haywood

Green Park Brasserie

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ZEITGEIST / WHAT’S ON What’s on and things to do

Father Christmas’ Grotto 27 November – 23 December Create festive memories and watch your little ones’ faces light up as they meet Father Christmas and his elves in their workshop. Much more than your usual grotto, Father Christmas’ Grotto is a fun, immersive experience full of storytelling, live music, comic performances, gifts, and laughter, with professional actors and musicians creating a truly oneof-a-kind experience. There will also be seasonal drinks and snacks, ensuring a superb family event. The Grotto takes place in the gardens of the Holburne Museum, adjoining Sydney Gardens. Check the website for all the dates and to book your appointment with Santa. Web: fatherchristmasbath.co.uk

Highlights at Theatre Royal Bath Murder in the Cathedral 10–21 November Sir David Suchet returns to the stage in his first dramatic role for almost a decade, playing Thomas Becket in T. S. Eliot’s powerful historical drama. Set in 12th-century England, this gripping production explores faith, loyalty and the price of standing by one’s convictions.

Beauty and the Beast 10 December 2026 – 10 January 2027

ReBalance Bath – Festival of Wellbeing 28 January – 13 February 2027 Feeling the winter blues? Bath has just the tonic! Returning for its fifth year, the ReBalance Bath Festival of Wellbeing invites you to slow down, recharge and put a little spring back in your step. From calming mindfulness sessions and inspiring talks to energising activities, feelgood experiences and indulgent hotel and spa packages, there’s something to soothe every soul. Whether you fancy trying something new or simply taking time out for yourself, Bath is the perfect place to relax, refresh and rebalance.

Web: welcometobath.co.uk

Be our guest! Bath’s much-loved pantomime returns with a magical tale of romance, laughter and largerthan-life characters. Starring Marc Baylis, Jon Monie and Nick Wilton, this festive extravaganza promises dazzling costumes, spectacular sets, sensational choreography and plenty of audience participation. Expect outrageous jokes, a little mischief and more than a sprinkling of fairy-tale magic. Oh, yes you will!

A Tale of Two Cities 15–23 January 2027 Charles Dickens’s sweeping tale of love, sacrifice and revolution comes to the stage in an adaptation by Terence Rattigan and John Gielgud. Set against the turmoil of the French Revolution, this powerful drama explores courage, divided loyalties and the possibility of redemption.

Blackbird 4 February – 6 March 2027

Image: VisitBath

John Simm stars in David Harrower’s Olivier Awardwinning play, a provocative drama about the consequences of a deeply troubling past relationship. Directed by Matthew Dunster, this powerful Ustinov Studio production explores memory, guilt and accountability in an emotionally charged encounter.

Web: theatreroyal.org.uk

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R O O M 7 Quiet Street Bath BA1 2JU T: 01225 330563 E: info@dressingroombath.com www.dressingroombath.com

T H E

F I N E S T

I N

L I N G E R I E ,

B E A C H

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ZEITGEIST / WHAT’S ON What’s on and things to do

Christmas at Westonbirt Twinkling lights in the forest Step into an enchanted woodland as Westonbirt Arboretum transforms into a dazzling winter wonderland. Follow a magical after-dark trail through towering trees illuminated by thousands of twinkling lights, spectacular installations and festive surprises. Marvel at the glowing Christmas Cathedral, wander through mesmerising Ribbon Tunnels and discover the enchanting Sea of Light. Keep your eyes peeled for Father Christmas, too! With festive fairground rides, delicious seasonal treats and warming drinks along the way, it’s a sparkling adventure for the whole family. Tickets from £19.50 adults, £13 children (off-peak). Advance booking essential.

27 November – 31 December (selected evenings) Westonbirt Arboretum, Tetbury GL8 8QS Web: forestryengland.uk/westonbirt/christmas

Bath Christmas Market It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas! There’s nothing quite like Bath at Christmas, when the city’s historic streets become a wonderland of twinkling chalets, tempting treats and festive cheer. Since its humble beginnings in 2001, Bath Christmas Market has grown into one of the country’s best-loved seasonal events. This year, around 245 traders will offer everything from handcrafted gifts and artisan goodies to delicious festive food and drink. With live music, street performers and the irresistible aroma of mulled wine in the air, it’s the perfect excuse to shop, sip and soak up the Christmas magic.

26 November – 13 December Web: bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

Bath on Ice Skate away this Christmas Glide into the festive spirit as Bath on Ice transforms Royal Victoria Park into a sparkling winter wonderland. Whether you’re a budding Torvill or Dean, a confident twirler or more of a cling-to-the-barrier skater, there’s plenty of fun to be had on the real ice rink. With twinkling lights, festive tunes, themed skating sessions and the cosy Moguls Alpine Bar serving warming drinks and tasty treats, it’s Christmas magic with a little extra sparkle. And for those who prefer their feet firmly on the ground, Glow Golf is back too!

20 November – 3 January (excluding Christmas Day) Royal Victoria Park, Bath. Web: bathonice.co.uk

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POSTCARDS

Itinerary: 12-24 Hours in Bath It’s your time in Bath, so spend it well. Our very own round-the-clock tour guide Melissa Blease counts down the hours for a one-day or a two-day stay

BATH IN ONE DAY • 8am – wake up to Bath If you’ve only got one day in Bath, you need to get moving early to make the most of it... So use your post-breakfast quiet time to check out the addresses that the hordes are set to congregate around later on: the honey-coloured curves of the Royal Crescent and the Circus, the breathtakingly impressive, clean lines of Great Pulteney Street and the elegant Milsom Street area are all at their stage-set best when bathed in the early-morning sunlight. • 10am – culture calling Your attention levels should be at their peak around now, so take your pick of the fabulous historic tourist attractions in the vicinity of the city centre. Choosing just one option is a tough call, but if you’re time-limited, you’re not going to be able to take them all in; fortunately, either the Roman Baths, the brilliant Holburne Museum or Victoria Art Gallery can be ‘done’ in a single two-hour blast. • 12 noon – lunch on-the-go If the weather is behaving nicely, lunchtime is the opportunity for a spot of al fresco refuelling set against one of the city’s historic backdrops, including Royal Victoria Park, historic Queen Square and the dramatic weir waterfall; grab a bespoke, instant picnic lunch and munch your sarnies in style. If, however, it’s a bit too wet or chilly, a myriad of splendid cafés, restaurants and bars all vie for your attention. • 2pm – get wet Immerse yourself in the tranquil surroundings of the Cross Bath. Part of the Thermae Bath Spa Complex, this intimate, standalone, open-air thermal bath – an official ‘sacred site,’ complete with its own changing facilities – offers a uniquely peaceful alternative to the more extensive spa experience offered in the main New Royal Bath. Cross Bath sessions last a nice, neat 1½ hours including changing time, and a towel and robe are included in the entry price. • 4pm – afternoon amble Enjoy tea and cake at one of Bath’s many independent cafés before taking time to wander, browse, compare and contrast the

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distinctly different atmospheres between the fascinating, eclectic Walcot Street, the chic and glamorous area around Milsom Street and the popular Southgate development, picking up souvenirs of your time in the city as you go. • 6pm – speedy supper If your time in the city is limited, you probably won’t want to linger long over dinner. Fortunately, a proliferation of pre-theatre and early bird menu deals offer gourmet feasts at a fraction of standard à la carte prices between 6pm–7.30pm at restaurants across the city, usually detailed on easy-to-spot A-boards outside their doors. If you’ve been organised enough to book a hot ticket for a show at the Theatre Royal, the Ustinov Studio, The Forum, The Little Theatre Cinema, Komedia, Chapel Arts Centre, an evening of magic with Billy Kidd at Krowd Keepers or an event at The Pavilion, your evening is planned. If, however, you’re footloose and fancy free... • 8pm – fun ‘n’ frolics For a fabulously fun tour around the ancient and mystical streets of Bath and to hear spine-chilling stories from the vaults of the city’s history, the super-spooky Ghost Walks of Bath tours start outside the Abbey main door at 8pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings throughout the year, and between May and October tours run 7 nights a week. But if rain stops play or you’ve done enough walking for one day, head for the Green Park Brasserie to enjoy free, live acoustic jazz/swing music in an atmospheric former Victorian railway station every evening from Wednesday to Friday, or The Bell (Walcot Street), which offers a warm welcome to one and all supplemented by a diverse range of live music three-to-four times a week (Monday, every other Tuesday and Wednesday from 9pm) ranging from jazz and blues to folk and roots. Meanwhile, St James Wine Vaults (James Street) hosts regular live music, performance poetry and interactive pub quizzes throughout the week. It’s been a long day! But if you’re still up for a little more of Bath, the Nightlife section (from page 140) can point you in the right direction of all manner of grown-up fun. If, however, you’re ready to hit the pillow – sweet dreams!

IMAGES: © Courtesy of Visit Britain, Visit Bath, Thermae Bath Spa, AdobeStock.com and TBM

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the vegetarian and vegan celebrations at Oak or Rob Clayton’s uplifting, stylish modern bistro dishes at his eponymously named Clayton’s Kitchen.

TOP TIPS: Mayor’s Guide Walking Tours – led by local volunteers who are knowledgeable and passionate about the city – are free. Don comfortable shoes and hook up with the group outside the Pump Rooms at 10.30am and 2pm from Sunday to Friday and at 10.30am on Saturday. All walks last around two hours.

BATH IN TWO DAYS The basic ingredients for making the most of the overall Bath experience are listed in our one-day tour. But if you’ve got time to delve deeper, supplement your stay with these add-on ideas. • Make time to step back in time Lose yourself in Bath’s rich history with the Bath Museums Saver Ticket, offering discounted entry to the Roman Baths and special exhibitions at the Victoria Art Gallery – if you’ve got two days to spend in the city, you can give these museums the attention they deserve. And for special interests, check out the city’s great smaller museums and art galleries. • Bliss out Turn a visit to the Thermae Bath Spa into a highlight of your stay, supplementing the standard two-hour session with a treatment from the Treatment Menu or a package that includes lunch or dinner at the spa’s Springs Café. The spa’s spectacular Rooftop Pool offers breathtaking views over the city; naturally seductively steamy at any hour, it’s particularly magical at sunset even during the autumn/winter months. • Tease yourself Upgrade the mid-afternoon café/coffee shop break to an unforgettable Afternoon Tea experience at the Pump Room, the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel, the Royal Crescent Hotel, The Ivy or Sally Lunn’s for a ‘Bath Bunn’. • Post-sunset shenanigans A two-night stay in Bath offers the opportunity to turn one evening into showtime (see venue suggestions on the 12-hour itinerary) and another into an unforgettable gourmet extravaganza. Tasting Menu plus optional Wine Flight experiences go large at Bath’s best hotels and restaurants, where some of the UK’s best chefs (Chris Cleghorn at the Michelin-starred Olive Tree Restaurant, Jauca Catalin at the Bath Priory and Martin Blake at the Royal Crescent) are waiting to take your order. Elsewhere, you can’t go wrong with

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The Theatre Royal releases 40 gallery/side bench/perch tickets priced from around £15.50 on all performance days (maximum two tickets per person). These are available for booking as soon as tickets are for sale, and are available at the box office or online. City Sightseeing buses depart from Bath Abbey on a regular basis and offer two options: the City Route and the Skyline Route, which takes voyagers through the countryside high in the hills that surround Bath. Both routes include an experienced guide who provides a fascinating commentary on the points of interest as you travel. Hop on/hop off tickets are valid for 24 hours. A map is the most useful accessory a visitor can equip themselves with. But if you’ve got a couple of hours to spare, bring the map to life by heading up the Wellsway and taking in the glorious views from Alexandra Park: behold, the city in miniature, awaiting your investigation.

LINGERING FOR LONGER? Then you qualify for a trip to one of the spectacular villages, towns and visitor experiences within easy access of Bath. • Approximately 15 miles/24km The super-pretty village of Castle Combe (as seen in Steven Spielberg’s War Horse and the original film version of Dr Dolittle with Rex Harrison singing Talking to the Animals) represents the very meaning of the words ‘picturesque’ and ‘quaint’. • Approximately 17 miles/27km Even if you’re not a Harry Potter fan, Lacock Abbey – the interior of which doubled-up as the interior of Hogwarts in two of the Harry Potter films – is as enchanting and magical as the ancient, quintessentially-English village of Lacock. • Approximately 22 miles/35km Wells (England’s smallest city) features a magnificent 13th-century cathedral – surrounded by the unique, moated Bishop’s Palace. Meanwhile, Stonehenge, Westonbirt Arboretum, Longleat, Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey), Glastonbury and Cheddar Gorge are all within easy drives from Bath. 

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FURTHER AFIELD

1. The magnificent Gothic façade of Wells Cathedral 2. Steeped in legend, the mysterious Glastonbury Tor looks over the mythical Isle of Avalon 3. The prehistoric standing stones of Stonehenge near Amesbury in Wiltshire 4. The picturesque village of Castle Combe

IMAGES: © Visit Britain, AdobeStock.com, TBM

5. The cloisters of Lacock Abbey, where many a scene from Harry Potter has been filmed

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Bladud in Exile, by Benjamin West PRA

Timeline of the City

here’s plenty of archaeological evidence to indicate that there was human activity around Bath’s hot springs dating back to at least 8,000 BC. The first shrine at the site was actually built by the Celts, not the Romans, and was dedicated to the goddess Sulis, whom the Romans identified with their goddess Minerva. It is thought that the similarities between Minerva and Sulis helped the Celts adapt to Roman culture. So that’s how it all started.

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• 863 BC: According to the legend, having healed himself and his herd of pigs from leprosy by bathing in the hot mud irrigated by the naturally heated spring waters, Bladud – son of King Rud Hud Hudibras and tenth ruler of the Britons in line from the first King Brutus (aka Brute of Troy) – takes his rightful title of King (and founder) of Bath. • AD 43: The Romans arrive and name the city Aquae Sulis, after the goddess Sulis Minerva – a considerable urban settlement is created on the site to include grand temples and bathing complexes.

The Arms of the City of Bath, created c. 1568, reproduced with kind permission of the City Council

Bath has a long and rich history – here’s a whirlwind tour through some of its key moments, which include the story of Bladud, founder of Bath, and the coronation of Edgar, the first King of England at Bath Abbey

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• 1726: Allen begins buying up Combe Down and Bathampton Down Mines for building stone.

• 878: Bath becomes a royal borough of Alfred the Great’s Kingdom of Wessex.

• 1727: A gilt bronze head from a cult statue of Sulis Minerva is found by workmen excavating a sewer near the Roman Temple.

• 973: Edgar, King of England 959–975, is crowned alongside his wife Ælfthryth at Bath Abbey by Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury.

• 1742: Ralph Allen is elected mayor of Bath.

• 1088: Benedictine monks take over the abbey and start to build a massive cathedral priory, complete with Bishop’s Palace. • 1090: John of Tours moves the episcopal seat to Bath, giving it city status. • 1137: Much of Bath is destroyed by a fire that ravages the city.

• 1755: The Roman Baths are rediscovered following the demolition of the Duke of Kingston’s Abbey House. • 1761: Beau Nash dies, and the Corporation of the City funds a lavish, elaborate funeral. Nash is buried in the nave of Bath Abbey. • 1766 The Hanoverian musician and astronomer William Herschel arrives in Bath to take a position as the organist for the Octagon Chapel.

• 1499: Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and Wells, begins reconstruction of the now neglected abbey, which surrenders to the Dissolution of the Monasteries act in 1539.

• 1769: The Circus is completed; Pulteney Bridge is constructed.

• 1576: The Queen’s Bath is built, with a drinking fountain installed in 1578.

• 1775–1777: The Royal Crescent, designed by John Wood the Younger, is completed and The Hot Bath is built.

• 1590: Bath’s city status is confirmed by Queen Elizabeth I. • 1657: The first regular coach service between London and Bath is established. • 1702: Queen Anne visits Bath, confirming the city as a fashionable destination and focal point for social activity outside of London. • 1704: Richard ‘Beau’ Nash is appointed Master of Ceremonies. • 1712: Entrepreneur and philanthropist Ralph Allen is appointed postmaster. • 1725: Architect John Wood the Elder develops an ambitious plan for his home town and presents it to Ralph Allen for consideration.

THE GORGON’S HEAD

• 1771: The New (Upper) Assembly Rooms are built.

• 1780: The Roman Great Bath is rediscovered by Major CE Davis while exploring a leak from the King’s Bath. • 1781: William Herschel makes the first observation of the planet Uranus from the back garden of his house in New King Street. • 1783–1784: The Cross Bath is built. • 1793: The devastating Bath bank crash causes temporary havoc to the construction industry. • 1795: Sydney Gardens opens as Bath Vauxhall Gardens, a commercial pleasure garden. The Grand Pump Room opens. • 1797–1798: The Cross Bath is developed and increases in size.

RICHARD ‘BEAU’ NASH

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Photograph, consecutively: Gorgon's Head of the Temple Sulis Minerva by Joyofmuseums; 19th century stained glass window in Bath Abbey depicting King Edgar of England being crowned, by Singinglemon; Beau Nash, photo by Michael Maggs. Main image courtesy of Bath in Time

• 577: The West Saxons win the Battle of Deorham and capture Bath, incorporating it into the Saxon petty kingdom of the Hwicce.

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• 1801: Jane Austen moves to Bath and stays in the city for almost five years. The Austens resided mostly in the newly built 4 Sydney Place, overlooking Sydney Gardens.

• 1942: Three German aerial bombing raids – part of the Baedeker Blitz – kill 417 Bath residents and destroy or badly damage the newly restored Assembly Rooms.

• 1804: Construction of the New Theatre Royal on Beaufort Street/Saw Close begins.

• 1955: The Assembly Rooms reopen, incorporating the Museum of Costume; The Beatles play at Bath Pavilion.

• 1805: The Orchard Street Theatre closes its doors for good. The New Theatre Royal opens to the public. • 1816: Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley arrives in Bath. By December her writing on the novel Frankenstein was well underway. THE HERSCHELS

Images, consecutively: Sir William Herschel and Caroline Herschel, colour lithograph by A. Diethe, ca. 1896; Haile Selassie,Wikimedia Commons; Mary Shelley image by Richard Rothwell, National Portrait Gallery.

• 1830: Victoria Park is opened by 11year-old Princess Victoria (later Queen Victoria) as a private pleasure ground. • 1831: Jolly’s on Milsom Street opens as The Bath Emporium, one of the very first department stores to open in the UK. Sadly now closed. • 1840: Isambard Kingdom Brunel builds the Bath Spa Train Station for the Great Western Railway. The First Penny Black postage stamp is used to send a letter by Thomas Moore Musgrave, postmaster of Bath. • 1861: The Guildhall Market is built on a site that had been used for trading for more than 800 years. HAILE SELASSIE

• 1862: The New Theatre Royal is destroyed by fire. The refurbished theatre opens again in 1863. • 1865: Bath Rugby is founded by members of Lansdown Cricket Club as Bath Football Club. • 1893: The Holburne Museum opens on Charlotte Street. • 1923: The Roman hot plunge baths are excavated. • 1936–1941: Haile Selassie, deposed Emperor of Ethiopia, is exiled in Bath.

MARY SHELLEY

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• 1938: The Assembly Rooms reopen after restoration.

• 1987: Bath is inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. • 1997: The Ustinov Studio opens at the rear of the Theatre Royal. • 2005: The egg, a venue for children’s, young people’s and family theatre, opens. • 2006: The Thermae Bath Spa opens to the public. • 2009: The SouthGate shopping centre and a brand new bus station open on Dorchester Street. • 2021: The City of Bath receives a second World Heritage Site inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe. • 2022: Bath Abbey’s Footprint Project is completed, including the Abbey’s historic floor being saved from collapse and underfloor heating powered by Bath’s hot springs. • 2022: The Bath World Heritage Centre opens in York Street, a stateof-the-art interpretive space where visitors can find out why Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. • 2023: The Bath Abbey Discovery Museum opens. Located in the vaults beneath the Abbey, it showcases the Abbey's history with many interactive exhibits and medieval stonework. • 2025: Bath Rugby achieves a historic sporting treble in the 2024–25 season under Head of Rugby, Johann van Graan, winning the Gallagher Premiership, the EPCR Challenge Cup, and the Premiership Rugby Cup. 

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THE GREAT BATH

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POSTCARDS

The Roman Baths Melissa Blease takes a tour of Bath’s most popular visitor attraction and discovers a world-class experience

Photographs: courtesy of Bath & North East Somerset Council. Main image by Colin Hawkins

espite Senator Tacitus describing the taking of the waters as “one of the luxuries that stimulate vice,” the Romans started the development of Aquae Sulis as a sanctuary of rest and relaxation some time after the Roman invasion of Britain in AD 43. Over the next three decades, they built a reservoir, a sophisticated series of baths and a temple dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva around the natural hot springs. The temple was constructed around AD 60–70, and the bathing complex was gradually built up over the next 300 years. But after the Roman withdrawal in the first decade of the fifth century, the bathing complex fell into serious disrepair and was eventually lost to silting and flooding. The vaulted building around the spring collapsed into the waters in the sixth or seventh century, but the oak piles that were sunk into the mud continue to provide an integral part of the stable foundations today. The various street-level aspects of the Roman Baths, the Grand Pump Room and the Stall Street entrance were designed in the 18th century by Thomas Baldwin and John Palmer, two of the leading architects of Georgian Bath who, alongside John Wood the Elder, John Wood the Younger, Robert Adam and John Eveleigh, are responsible for most of the Palladian-style architecture for which Bath is so highly regarded. Throughout the 18th and early 19th centuries, visitors flocked to fashionable, genteel Bath from far and wide to drink the mineralrich spring waters and socialise in the Grand Pump Room, the neo-classical salon within the Roman Baths complex. As Jane Austen – who moved with her family to Bath in 1801 for what her family deemed to be health benefits – wrote in Northanger Abbey, “every morning brought its regular duties: shops were to be visited; some new part of the town to be looked at: and the Pump Room to be attended, where they paraded up and down for an hour, looking at everybody and speaking to no one.” Both the Pump Room (which remains in use as a tea room and restaurant today) and the Roman Baths fortunately offer a far friendlier, more accessible welcome to contemporary visitors, centuries on – and the complex remains very much a fully functioning, sparkling jewel in the city’s crown. ON SHOW The Roman Gym – part of the main visitor journey around the Roman Baths, unseen by the public for over 1600 years before the complex underwent a stunning renovation in 2021 – allows visitors access to a courtyard where Romans worked out before heading into the baths. The gym itself includes the remains of an ancient

sauna (a laconicum) and one of the best preserved doorways from Roman British times, while projections showing how the Romans would have used the gym, and audio commentary explaining Roman workouts and the Roman attitude to health, wellbeing and medicine help visitors imagine the sights, sounds and routines of life in the Roman Baths almost 2,000 years ago. The state-of-the-art Clore Learning Centre allows school and community groups to learn all about history and heritage in a hands-on, accessible way. The neighbouring World Heritage Centre offers a central point for visitors to find out about the city-wide UNESCO World Heritage site’s hot springs, Roman remains, Georgian architecture, Georgian town planning, the social setting of the Georgian spa town and the city’s natural landscape setting. Time may not stand still for the Roman Baths, but the defining purpose at the core of the complex remains the same. The site’s permanent collection contains thousands of archaeological finds from pre-Roman and Roman Britain including the Beau Street Hoard, which was excavated by archaeologists on the site of the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel in Beau Street in 2007 and is today widely acknowledged to be one of the most remarkable archaeological discoveries ever to have been made in Bath. A total of 17,655 Roman coins were found fused together in eight separate money bags, spanning the period from BC 32–AD 274. Elsewhere, exhibits range from the divine to the domestic. In the Temple Worship area of the museum, the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva, for example, is an ancient, awe-inspiring

THE GORGON’S HEAD

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YOUR VISIT A visit to the Roman Baths is a multi-textured, comprehensive experience offering broad appeal to all ages, tastes and interests. Even those who may not think they’re visiting Bath to learn more about the history of the Heritage City can’t fail to realise that it’s all around us, at every turn – and never more so than within the Roman Baths where the city began. It is recommended that you allow around 90 minutes to two hours for your visit. Portable, fact-packed audioguides with

A HYPOCAUST – AN UNDERFLOOR CENTRAL-HEATING SYSTEM

A DISPLAY OF THE BEAU STREET HOARD

information on Roman life and the history of the Baths (available in thirteen languages) that can be stopped, started and rewound according to your schedule and particular interests are included as standard in the admission price, including all-age guides and a children’s guide. Printed language sheets are also available at the Roman Baths reception. In addition to the audio guides, the Baths run regular one-hour guided tours throughout the day where you can delve into the Roman bathing experience, explore the famous Great Bath and the Roman bathing rooms in the East Baths, and see the Sacred Spring where naturally hot water has bubbled up from under the ground for thousands of years. During the tour you will have a chance to see historic photos and illustrations of the Roman Baths and handle replica bathing equipment – such as a strigil, which Roman bathers used to scrape and clean their skin. You’ll also enjoy meeting and chatting to some of the costumed characters that add history and colour to your experience. These characters (who stay in character, even when asked to pose for a modern-day photo), are based on real people who lived and worked at Aquae Sulis 2,000 years ago. Performed by local actors from the Natural Theatre Company, the characters and their stories have been meticulously reconstructed from collected evidence found on site at the Baths. Finally, while it may not be to everyone’s taste, at the end of your visit you have the opportunity to sample the hot natural spa water. Salute! 

 The Roman Baths, Abbey Church Yard, Bath BA1 1LZ  The Roman Baths is open every day except 25 and 26 December.  For specific seasonal opening times, admission prices, special events and accessibility details, visit the Roman Baths website.  Tel: 01225 477785  Web: romanbaths.co.uk

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Photographs: courtesy of Bath & North East Somerset Council. Hypocaust image by Jon Craig

showpiece, while catching the eye of the imposing Gorgon’s head that glowers down from the top of the grand ornamental Temple Pediment (the temple itself being one of only two classical style temples in Britain, depicting the merging of local and Roman beliefs) is a curiously thrilling experience. Offering delightful contrast to the more dramatic exhibits on display, the brooches, combs, jewellery, glass bottles and general domestic paraphernalia discovered buried beneath the foundations of the present buildings offer a fascinating, evocative snapshot of everyday Roman life and create a strong link of familiarity between the past and the present. Meanwhile, the curiously moving Roman Curse tablets – ‘defixiones’, (inscribed onto small sheets of lead or pewter and believed to range in date from the second to the late fourth century AD) depict the private and personal prayers and wishes of 130 individuals and provide a uniquely personal insight into Roman life. Addressed to the goddess Sulis Minerva, many request stolen items be returned, but others are scarily malevolent, seeking more severe forms of justice be served: “Docimedis has lost two gloves and asks that the thief responsible should lose their minds and eyes in the goddess’ temple”. The tablets are the only objects from Roman Britain to be included within UNESCO’s Memory of the World register, which aims to preserve, promote and protect written and audiovisual heritage while encouraging universal access to social history.

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FASCINATING FACTS Over 1 million people visit the Roman Baths every year, making it the second most visited attraction outside London, after Stonehenge. In 2025, the Roman Baths was recognised as Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice “Best of the Best” attraction, ranking in the top 1% worldwide. Hot water at a temperature of 46°C (114.8°F) rises at the Roman Baths at the rate of 1,170,000 litres every day. The spa water originally fell as rain around 10,000 years ago. It sank to a depth of around 2km below the Earth’s surface, where it is geothermally heated before rising back up to one of Bath’s three springs: the Cross Bath Spring, the Hetling Spring or the King’s Spring, which supplies the Roman Baths. Bath spa water contains more than 43 minerals and trace elements, the most concentrated of which include calcium, magnesium, sodium and iron. The Great Bath holds 225,000 litres of water. The Temple of Sulis Minerva in Bath is one of only two classical temples known from Roman Britain, the second one being the Claudius Temple in Colchester. The tranquil Cross Bath – part of the grander Thermae Bath Spa complex but situated in an independent setting – is an oﬃcial sacred site with ancient origins; some historians claim the site was occupied around 7,000 years ago, supported by the discovery of Mesolithic flints in the spring and evidence of human activity in the surrounding area. It’s impossible to estimate exactly how much the Beau Street Hoard (17,655 Roman coins) would be worth in real terms today. If you’d like to imagine going shopping Romanstyle, an amphora of wine would have cost you 300 sestertii, you could buy 200 pounds of flour for just one aureus and a slave would set you back 500–1,500 denarii. The terrace overlooking the Great Bath is lined with Victorian statues of prominent figures from Roman history, including Constantine the Great, Julius Caesar, Claudius and Hadrian. The statues on the terrace date to 1894, and were carved in advance of the grand opening of the Roman Baths in 1897. Visitors could still occasionally bathe in the Great Bath (and some of the smaller baths) up until 1978. However, following the discovery of a dangerous amoeba, which was active in the water, the baths were closed for bathing. The spring water that supplies the Thermae Bath Spa today is drawn from new boreholes drilled beneath the King’s Spring and the Cross Bath between 1983–1985, and the Hetling Spring in 1998 and 2011. The water is tested weekly and is consistently declared safe.

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30 / POSTCARD from BATH RICHARD ‘BEAU’ NASH RALPH ALLEN

ARCHITECTURAL BRILLIANCE: THE CIRCUS AND ROYAL CRESCENT

JOHN WOOD THE ELDER

IMAGES (top left, rotating clockwise): Richard ‘Beau’ Nash by William Hoare, courtesy of Victoria Art Gallery, Bath and N.E. Somerset Council; Ralph Allen by John Faber Jr., Wikimedia Commons; John Wood the Elder courtesy of Bath in Time; The Circus, AdobeStock

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CITY HISTORY

The Men Who Built Bath Melissa Blease digs deep into the architectural roots of Bath and celebrates the pioneers responsible for creating some of the city’s most loved and distinct buildings

espite enduring a Roman invasion, being granted official city status more than nine centuries ago, and operating a regular coach service to London since 1657, Bath in the late 17th century was little more than a quiet market town with a population of just 2,000 people. But the Bathonians who enjoyed the quiet life at this time were about to have their world turned upside down. In 1702, Queen Anne visited Bath and publicly endorsed the medicinal, mineral-rich properties of the city’s spring water, declaring that it helped to ease her painful gout – a form of arthritis that causes severe swelling and inflammation. She visited Bath regularly to take the waters with the aim of seeking a cure. Within two years of the royal visit, Richard ‘Beau’ Nash relocated to Bath from London to claim the mantle of Master of Ceremonies, presiding over the social and cultural events of a city that was fast turning into the Britain’s most fashionable merrymaking zone. And eight years later, 17-year-old Ralph Allen swapped his job behind the counter of his family’s post office in Cornwall to fill a vacancy for an assistant to the postmistress of Bath – and Bath’s architectural renaissance was poised to begin. Excelling in his initial role of clerk, Allen soon became the youngest postmaster in the UK in 1712, at the age of 19. An instinctive entrepreneur and avid philanthropist, he went on to reform the country’s postal system by introducing a ‘signed-for’ mail initiative to guarantee security, and improving speed and efficiency by ceasing the lengthy process of directing all mail via London. In a move that exemplified his passion for enterprise and forwardthinking initiatives, combined with an innate aptitude for logistics, in 1726 Allen used the small fortune he’d made from revolutionising the postal system to purchase the quarries at Combe and Bathampton Downs, and built a railway to carry huge blocks of stone into the city. Around the same time, architect John Wood (born in Bath in 1704) had recently returned to the city from London, where he’d been involved with the Cavendish-Harley housing estate development in Mayfair. Wood the Elder (the reason behind ‘the Elder’ appellation will shortly become clear) discovered a natural affinity with Allen.Wood developed an ambitious plan for the architectural regeneration of Bath and presented it to Allen; together, they set about turning that vision into reality. Combining his passion for Palladianism (a classic European style of architecture derived from 16th-century Venetian architect Andrea Palladio) and his fascination with ancient British history, Wood the Elder’s overall vision was to turn Bath into ‘the Rome of Britain’, complete with a Circus Maximus and Forum. While the

Corporation of Bath initially looked upon his grand designs as little more than self-indulgent folly, they eventually conceded that Bath’s burgeoning popularity was creating a need for accommodation for visitors and prospective long-term residents. Using Wood the Elder’s designs, work on Queen Square – named in honour of George II’s consort, Caroline – began in 1729; leading by example, perhaps, Wood the Elder took one of the centre houses for himself. While Queen Square was still a work in progress, Wood the Elder also undertook a commission from Allen to build a new home that would display and convey his new-found status and wealth. The pair chose a plot of land that lay just outside Bath's original city boundaries to build Prior Park, an imposing Palladian mansion set in 28 acres of grounds overlooking the city. Completed in 1743, the park was described by British author and man-about-town Philip Thicknesse as ‘a noble seat which sees all Bath, and which was built, probably, for all Bath to see’ – and Thicknesse probably had a point. Although their professional partnership came to an end during the project (Allen dismissed Wood in 1734, replacing him with their Clerk of Works, Richard Jones), they remained firm friends. Allen used Prior Park to entertain many influential personalities of the day including artist Thomas Gainsborough, theatrical impresario David Garrick and novelist and dramatist Henry Fielding. All of these he proudly introduced to Wood the Elder, who, by 1728, had completed his first private commission in Bath, a new building for St John’s Hospital in the city centre. But Wood the Elder’s greatest architectural gift to Bath had yet to be revealed. The Circus – named after the original Latin word for a circle or ring rather than a travelling entertainment venue – comprised 30 terraced houses on an orbicular layout, perfectly divided into three sections of exactly equal length and based around a central lawn. When viewed from the air (might we suggest the basket of an air balloon?) The Circus, Gay Street and Queen Square form the shape of a key. This ancient masonic symbol unlocks a clue to Wood the Elder’s longstanding fascination with Freemasonry, a non-religious fraternity established at the end of the 14th century by local stonemasons aiming to regulate fair interaction with clients. Freemasonry was described by one of the original founding members as ‘a beautiful system of morality, veiled in allegory and illustrated by symbols’. Wood the Elder’s connections are further endorsed if you wander The Circus at street level and notice the frieze that runs along the elegant curved facades of each segment of the buildings, richly decorated with 525 pictorial emblems including nautical symbols, swords, mythological and legendary beasts and representations of the arts and sciences, all of which have origins in POSTCARD from BATH / 31

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Hand-coloured line engraving of Prior Park and Ralph Allen’s railway in 1750 from an engraving by Anthony Walker, courtesy of the National Railway Museum /Science and Society Picture Library

1750: PRIOR PARK AND RALPH ALLEN’S RAILWAY

Masonic tradition. Wood the Elder, however, never saw his most magnificent, ambitious work completed – he died three months after laying The Circus’ first foundation stone in 1754. But the Wood family’s legacy doesn’t end there. John Wood’s son John (hence the designation of Elder and Younger) was born in Bath in 1728 – the same year his father moved back to the city from London. From his early childhood, Wood the Younger was captivated by his father’s work. In 1749, when Wood the Elder temporarily relocated to Liverpool to oversee the initial stages of his design for the city’s new town hall, Wood the Younger went with him. It was on an early site visit to Liverpool Town Hall that Wood the Younger met Elizabeth Brock, the sister of nearby Chester’s town clerk, whom he eventually married; the couple raised a family of nine children (seven girls and two boys). After Wood the Elder died in 1754, Wood the Younger took over where his father left off, building The Circus (which was eventually completed in 1768) and Gay Street, which provided an elegant thoroughfare twixt The Circus and Queen Square. Over the coming years, Wood the Younger (who lived with his family at 41 Gay Street) created a brand-new architectural image for Bath, pioneering a bold, neo-classical style that contrasted with the more ornate, embellished frontages preferred by his father. This contrast is most sharply represented in buildings such as the Assembly Rooms, a U-shaped complex centred on a grand suite of rooms comprising the Tea Room, Card Room, Ball Room and Octagon Room. Purpose-built for fashionable society, it opened in 1771 to host an 18th-century entertainment venue known as the Assembly. The Hot Bath is another example, part of the Roman Baths complex and built in 1777. Wood the Younger’s ultimate masterpiece was Bath’s exquisite

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Royal Crescent, completed in 1775. The 500ft/150m supremely elegant, sweeping curve of 30 grandiose terraced houses facing south and overlooking acres of pastoral paradise was later transformed into Royal Victoria Park (opened in 1830 by the 11-year-old princess Victoria – later Queen Victoria). Subtly exuding the kind of discreetly luxurious glamour that Wood the Younger excelled in creating and to this day renowned across the globe for its iconic architectural status, the Royal Crescent was the first of its kind to be built in the UK. It remains one of the greatest, most picture-perfect examples of Georgian architecture in the country, if not the world. Over the course of the 18th century, Bath’s population grew from 2,000 to almost 30,000 as the city transformed from a market town into a fashionable metropolis. Today, more than 83,000 residents and thousands upon thousands of annual visitors and tourists offer gratitude in abundance to The Men Who Built Bath. 

Remembering Legends • John Wood the Elder died in his Queen Square home in 1754 and was buried in the chancel of Swainswick Church. • Beau Nash died in 1762 and left such a lasting legacy that locals rallied together to give him a lavish funeral fit for a king. • Ralph Allen – elected Mayor of Bath in 1742 – used Prior Park as his primary residence until his death in 1764. • John Wood the Younger died at his eventual home (Eagle House, Batheaston) in 1781 and was buried beside his father.

Map courtesy of Bath in Time

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MAP OF BATH: THE CITY IN 1793

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The Perfect Curve Completed more than 250 years ago, the Royal Crescent remains one of the UK’s most breathtaking architectural treasures, says Jessica Hope

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IMAGE: TBM

ith its 114 Ionic columns, honey-coloured stone and curved symmetry spanning 150m (500 ft), the Royal Crescent is one of the most majestic examples of 18th-century Palladian-style architecture in the UK, and as such it is protected by a Grade I-listed status. Between 1767 and 1775, architect John Wood the Younger designed and oversaw the construction of this magnificent semiellipse of buildings. His father John Wood the Elder had brought Palladianism to Bath with his developments in and around Queen Square (1725–1736) and the Circus (1754–1768). The Crescent was the final sequence in this architectural masterplan. Wood employed various builders on each of the 30 houses, and while he was particular about maintaining the dimensions and design across the façade, he allowed purchasers the freedom of budget to do what they liked inside and at the back. This is why the depth of the buildings and roof lines differ behind the Royal Crescent, and the windows are not all aligned. This architecture, often described as ‘Queen Anne fronts and Mary-Anne backs’, was an indication of the wealth of the initial owner. The Royal Crescent was the first crescent of terraced houses to be built ‘rus in urbe’ (country in the city) as it overlooked parkland and offered fashionable visitors city residences that had the same style and grandeur as the houses in their country estates. A ha-ha remains to this day – a sunken ditch separating the upper and lower lawns, designed to keep grazing animals off the upper lawn without interrupting the view – hence the unsympathetic name. On completion, the Crescent became one of the most sought-after addresses in the city. It adopted the title ‘Royal’ at the end of the 18th century after Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany, had stayed there. Drawn by the Assembly Rooms and the thermal waters, by the late 18th century Bath had become a centre for the leisurely classes to take the waters, socialise, gamble and participate in the marriage market. To see and be seen was considered the most desirable of diversions and those in wealthy (and not so wealthy) society used Bath’s open spaces, such as the Royal Crescent, Circus and Queen Square, to promenade, meet their friends and gossip. Today, the Crescent’s 30 townhouses remain a mixture of private homes and apartments, alongside No. 1 Royal Crescent museum and the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, which occupies the central houses and continues the Crescent’s long tradition of elegant hospitality in this remarkable setting. 

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THE SOUTH ELEVATION AT SUNRISE

IMAGES: AdobeStock.com and TBM

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The Lantern of the West Bath Abbey sits at the very heart of the city. Rich in history and a notable example of fine Perpendicular Gothic architecture, it is one of the city’s most inspiring sights for visitors and pilgrims. Dr Cathryn Spence, Bath Abbey Archivist and Curator – looks at its past, present and future.

ne might expect the principal religious building at the heart of the city of Bath to be a cathedral, but the magnificent, imposing building is actually now a parish church dedicated to St Peter and St Paul. The earliest manuscript relating to this area dates from 675AD and it details the land given to Abbess Bertana for the construction of a convent. This may have been a double-house, with both an order of monks and a separate order of nuns. By the following century, however, Bath Abbey was entirely a male Christian community of monks. At least three different churches have stood on the site: the Anglo-Saxon monastery, a vast Norman cathedral (the current Abbey would fit within its nave) and the Tudor church you see today. As you approach the Abbey’s impressive West front, one of the first things you’ll notice is the unusual stone carving, depicting angels climbing up – and tumbling down – a pair of ladders. This relates to a dream that Bishop Oliver King experienced of angels travelling between heaven and earth by a ladder, similar to the Bible story of Jacob’s vision. Bishop King interpreted his dream as a message from God that Bath was the gateway to Heaven and that he needed to restore the dilapidated church and return it to

its former glory as a place of worship. You are still able to see evidence of the Norman Cathedral in the north aisle of the Abbey and in the Gethsemane Chapel. The West front was probably finished by 1518, but Bishop King died in 1503 and so did not see his vision complete. Inside, Bishop King commissioned King Henry VII’s master masons, Robert and William Vertue, to create the beautiful fan vaulted ceiling. The brothers considered it to be their finest work. The Gothic style naturally enhances church architecture, with the steep, rising arches drawing the eye to Heaven. Filling those arches with plain and coloured glass, which creates an ever-changing magical light effect, is indisputably spiritual and enlightening. Bath Abbey has 52 windows; today 25 of them are filled with stained glass by some of the most prestigious Victorian makers. The ratio of window to wall is the highest in Europe, earning Bath Abbey its nickname of ‘Lantern of the West’. Bath Abbey was the last great medieval cathedral to be built in England before King Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries closed the Abbey in 1539. The lead from the roof and the glass from the windows were sold for £30 (£13,000) and once again Bath’s prestigious Christian house became a ruin.

THE WEST WINDOW AND FAN VAULTED CEILING

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IMAGE: ABG Design for Bath Abbey

THE DISCOVERY MUSEUM, LOCATED IN THE ANCIENT ABBEY VAULTS, OFFERS A FASCINATING INSIGHT INTO ITS RICH HISTORY

In 1573, permission was granted by Queen Elizabeth I for the restoration of the Abbey and a national fundraising campaign was launched. There were many prominent benefactors at this time, all of whom are recorded in a significant manuscript, the Benefactor’s Book, which is on display in the Abbey’s Discovery Museum. Three further major restorations have occurred since then. In 1833–4 the City of Bath initiated a renovation engaging architect George Philips Manners, who added pinnacles to the turrets at the east and west ends of the church and to the tower. Thirty years later the Rector Charles Kemble invested significant sums of his own money and employed Sir George Gilbert Scott, who brought immense changes: he introduced the pews, gas lighting, underfloor heating and extended the medieval fan vaulting to cover the entire ceiling. The most recent restoration occurred between 2018 and 2023 and was called the Footprint Project. Thousands of people were buried beneath the Abbey floor, which, over time, started to subside. From 2018, all the ledgerstones were lifted and conserved; a new heating system was installed, drawing energy from Bath’s natural hot waters; and thousands of decorative marble fragments were discovered beneath the floor. During Gilbert Scott’s restoration all the wall memorials were re-arranged and consolidated. Monuments were reduced in size, and some were removed entirely and hidden under the floor. Bath Abbey has a similar number of monuments to Westminster Abbey and during the 1700s and early 1800s visitors would come to the Abbey to view the memorials, which hung from the walls and pillars, much like an art gallery. The first guide to the memorials was published in 1778. Today there is a website with biographies of those commemorated in the Abbey, updated regularly by a dedicated team of research volunteers: bathabbeymemorials.org.uk The Footprint Project greatly improved the Abbey’s energyefficiency, and it has recently achieved Silver in the A Rocha Eco Church awards. It is currently working towards the Gold award. The project also created new spaces for the music and learning departments. For centuries, music has been central to the life of the Abbey, which remains deeply committed to nurturing the

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musical education of local children through its Song School. The pews in the Abbey were also removed as part of the project, allowing for a more adaptable space. Film and music events, art installations and community celebrations are now held alongside a rich offer of church services, choral events and recitals played on the Abbey’s impressive Klais organ. A state-of-the-art learning room has given the Abbey the opportunity to welcome new audiences of all ages and backgrounds. An ambitious programme is on offer to a wide range of audiences: from families and school students to members of Age UK, carers with babies, local residents looking for a ‘warm space’ in winter and refugees learning English. Extensive archaeology added to our knowledge about the Abbey and the people who worked and worshipped there. A medieval tiled floor was discovered as well as remnants of Saxon crosses and stone architectural details from the previous churches. Many of these items are displayed in the Discovery Museum, alongside other treasures which explore the earlier history of the Abbey. There is also a new temporary display area which is currently focused on the history of the Abbey’s stained glass windows. There are interactives, videos and replica period costumes that visitors can try on. The shop has a wide selection of unique gifts and souvenirs, many designed by local artisans and are unique to Bath Abbey. The shop can be visited independently of the Abbey, with the entrance at the southwest corner of the Abbey in the Jackson extension. Bath Abbey’s popular guided Tower Tours offer the best view in Bath. On the way up you will learn about bellringing at the Abbey and get a behind-the-scenes look of the historic tower. When Bath monastery closed in 1539, its eight bells were sold and shipped to Spain. When the Abbey was restored in the early 1600s five of its new bells were purchased from another former abbey at Keynsham, about eight miles north-west of Bath towards Bristol. To maintain its high standard as a leading national heritage attraction and to remain sustainable as a place of worship, nonBath residents are charged an admission fee. Tickets can be pre-booked online or purchased on the day of your visit. There are regular prayers during the day, a schedule of services throughout the week and special services at key times of the year, such as at Easter and Christmas. While Bath Abbey offers a range of secular events and warmly welcomes all visitors, it remains primarily a place dedicated to Christian worship. Visit the Abbey’s website for information about church services, visiting, specialist tours, tower tours (including exclusive marriage proposal options), events, special exhibitions and organ recitals.

 Visit: Bath Abbey, Bath BA1 1LT Tickets: For admission tickets and more information, visit the Bath Abbey website  Open daily, Monday to Friday: 10.00am – 5.30pm, (6pm Saturday), Sunday: 1.00pm – 3.30pm  Web: bathabbey.org

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Collections & Treasures Beyond Bath’s celebrated landmarks lies a collection of smaller museums and attractions, each revealing a different chapter of the city’s story. From Georgian drawing rooms and scientific discoveries to literary legends, curious collections and hidden histories, Dara Foley explores the treasures waiting to be discovered

ath has a wonderful, eclectic mix of independent specialist museums that will delight, educate and stimulate the senses in equal measure. Housed in some of Bath’s finest buildings, these little treasures will make your experience of our city so much richer. Intelligent, intriguing and charming, they are certainly worth a visit. NO. 1 ROYAL CRESCENT At one end of the magnificent sweeping curve of the Royal Crescent, surely Bath’s most photographed street, can be found a museum which gives us the chance to see what the home life of a fashionable Georgian household was like. No. 1 Royal Crescent, run by Bath Preservation Trust, has been painstakingly furnished and decorated just as it might have been during the period 1776–1796. Visitors can take a room-by-room journey around 18th-century life, from the lady’s bedroom and the parlour to the gentleman’s retreat. In addition to the fine furniture, glassware, china and silver, and the collections, which reflect the interests of the era in science and the natural world, there’s a recreation of a working kitchen in the basement, filled with archaic and fascinating cooking paraphernalia. Children can have a turn trying on costumes from the period and there is often a be-wigged doorman in full Georgian costume to welcome visitors outside the No. 1 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LR Tel: 01225 428126 Web: no1royalcrescent.org.uk BATH ROYAL LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTION For those who fear the world is dumbing down, BRLSI (pronounced Brillsy) is an oasis of cultural refreshment. Located on Queen Square, it’s a prominent address but an unassuming institution, perhaps explained by the fact that it’s a charitable organisation run by volunteers. So there’s no flashy shop selling t-shirts and pencils, but there is a running programme of free exhibitions centred on promoting science, literature and art. The museum is fortunate in being able to call on its tens of thousands of objects in its collections to collate fascinating displays. Throughout the year there are knowledgeable lectures and talks from world-class experts on topics as diverse as fake news, Buddhism, nanoscience and climate change. Check out some of the collections in its online gallery. 16–18 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HN Tel: 01225 312084 Web: brlsi.org

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MARY SHELLEY’S HOUSE OF FRANKENSTEIN This attraction, set in a Grade II listed property, blurs the lines between museum and immersive visitor experience, extending over four atmospheric floors including the dank, foreboding basement experience. Step into the world of Mary Shelley with a floor dedicated to uncovering her history and tragic life events, and confront the formidable 8ft monster recreated exactly as Mary imagined. Bursting with unusual artefacts and vintage items, interactive multi-sensory environments and assorted body parts, Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein delivers an unnervingly visceral, illuminating and entertaining experience. 37 Gay Street, Bath BA1 2NT Tel: 01225 551542 Web: houseoffrankenstein.com HERSCHEL MUSEUM OF ASTRONOMY In a quiet side street off Bath city centre lies a modest Georgian terraced house where astronomer William Herschel made history over 200 years ago. With his telescope in the garden of the home in New King Street that he shared with his equally gifted sister Caroline, Herschel discovered Uranus, a hitherto unknown planet. That discovery in 1781 was to influence future generations of space scientists. The late astronomer Sir Patrick Moore said that Herschel should be commemorated as the man who gave us our first understanding of an accurate shape of our star system, or galaxy. The small museum has some rooms furnished as they would have been in the 18th century, and its artefacts tell of a life filled with music-making and scientific exploration. Also, watch a short film about the Herschels and visit the 18th-century garden, where plants used in cooking and medicine were cultivated. 19 New King Street, Bath BA1 2BL Tel: 01225 446865 Web: herschelmuseum.org.uk THE MUSEUM OF EAST ASIAN ART Bath is home to the only UK museum dedicated to the art and culture of East and South East Asia. It has a collection of exquisitely beautiful items, including ceramics, carvings, netsuke and jade, many of them thousands of years old. It is a place to quietly focus on the details of form and colour and to marvel at the craftsmanship imbued in these pieces. The museum has an excellent shop – great for gift buying – and regularly runs family-friendly events and craft sessions. 12 Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QJ Tel: 01225 464640 Web: meaa.org.uk

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GEORGIAN COOK IN THE KITCHEN AT NO. 1 ROYAL CRESCENT

THE SPIRAL STAIRWELL AT BECKFORD’S TOWER

THE JANE AUSTEN CENTRE

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HERSCHEL MUSEUM OF ASTRONOMY

THE MUSEUM OF BATH AT WORK Bath was once a thriving hub of industry, making goods that were shipped around the world. This unusual museum is dedicated to the centuries of Bath’s working heritage. Highlights of the collection include a recreation of a 19th-century soft drinks bottling plant, J.B. Bowler, which once operated in the city, and a Horstmann car from 1914, one of the earliest motor vehicles, also made in Bath. The museum is a great place for Bathonians to learn more about their heritage, and for visitors to look at how our ancestors used to make things. For many it will also offer the experience when history collides with our own memories of past technology. Julian Road, Bath BA1 2RH Tel: 01225 318348 Web: bath-at-work.org.uk BATH WORLD HERITAGE CENTRE The city of Bath is recognised by UNESCO for its outstanding architectural, archaeological and cultural heritage, including its Roman remains, natural hot springs and magnificent Georgian townscape. Find out more about the city’s attributes of Outstanding Universal Value: the hot springs, Roman remains, Georgian architecture, Georgian town planning, the social setting of the Georgian spa town and the city’s natural landscape setting. You can explore interactive exhibits and displays designed to inspire, excite and inform. Discover free walking trails and guides and a specially designed mobile app to help you explore everything Bath has to offer. 10 York Street, Bath BA1 1NH Tel: 01225 477785 Web: bathworldheritage.org.uk OLD THEATRE ROYAL AND MASONIC MUSEUM It’s easy to miss this ordinary-looking building, yet it was the first purpose-built theatre in Bath and behind the modest front door lies a fascinating history dating back to 1750. Originally named the St James Theatre, it soon became the first Theatre Royal outside London with star performers such as William Dimond and Sarah Siddons attracting sell-out audiences. As the population of Bath grew towards the end of the 1700s, its limitations were obvious and a new location for the theatre was found in Beaufort Square, the site now occupied by the Theatre Royal Bath. The Theatre Royal and Masonic Hall are open to the public on selected days with guided tours available to give you an insight into the history of the theatre, the building and freemasonry in general. 12 Orchard Street, Bath BA1 1JU Tel: 01225 462233 Web: oldtheatreroyal.com

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MARY SHELLEY’S HOUSE OF FRANKENSTEIN

JANE AUSTEN CENTRE More of an immersive curiosity than a museum, the Jane Austen Centre celebrates the author’s life and works with a permanent exhibition that explores her time in Bath and the influence that the city had on her books and the characters she created. Set in a classic Georgian townhouse that’s decorated in Regency-era style, complete with period costumes and refreshments, the museum offers a time-capsule glimpse into Austen’s personal life. Visitors will also meet many of the costumed guides that gallivant the corridors, such as the brilliant Martin Salter – AKA Mr Bennet, who remains in character and makes the experience enchanting and memorable. There’s also a chance to dress up in Regency clothing, and sample biscuits, scents of the era and even try a little writing with a quill and ink. After all that, take tea and possibly cake, with Mr Darcy in the centre’s Regency Tea Rooms. 40 Gay Street, Bath BA1 2NT Tel: 01225 443000 Web: janeausten.co.uk BECKFORD’S TOWER AND MUSEUM Built between 1826 and 1827 for William Beckford (1760–1844), Beckford’s Tower is a unique building and a key landmark for the City of Bath. It once housed one of the greatest collections of art, furniture and books in Georgian England. However, behind its beauty lies a more brutal story. The Tower is a product of the transatlantic trafficking of enslaved African people. Beckford’s ability to build, and to collect, was made possible by a vast fortune built on the profits of sugar plantations in Jamaica and the stolen labour of thousands of enslaved Africans. This wealth gave Beckford a life of privilege, and enabled him to collect and commission unique and influential artworks by some of Europe’s greatest artists and makers. It also gave him power over the lives of others. Understanding the source of Beckford’s wealth, and what it enabled him to do, is essential to exploring the books he wrote, the collection he put together and the buildings he created. Lansdown Rd, Bath BA1 9BH Tel: 01225 460705 Web: beckfordstower.org.uk

 Please note: Museum and attraction opening times may vary throughout the autumn and winter months, particularly over Christmas and New Year. Some venues operate seasonal hours or close for short periods. We recommend checking individual websites for the latest opening times, admission details and any special arrangements before visiting.

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Handmade in the Heart of Bath

Repairs • Remodelling • Commissions JODYCORY.CO.UK 01225 460072 JODY@JODYCORY.CO.UK 9 ABBEY CHURCHYARD, BATH BA1 1LY

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SHOPPING

Bath Christmas Market Twinkling chalets, artisan makers and the magnificent backdrop of Bath Abbey – Bath Christmas Market has grown from modest beginnings into one of the city’s great festive traditions

Original text by Simon Horsford. Images by Paolo Ferla

hristmas begins early for the organisers of Bath’s annual market – in the second week in January. That’s hardly a surprise when you consider that [according to a report commissioned for Bath & North East Somerset Council] the 2024 Christmas Market attracted an estimated 444,000 visitors, generating almost £49 million in associated spending across the city. This year the market is set to bring in similar figures when it opens on 26 November, running until 13 December. Several cities in Britain may have similar markets, but few have such fabulous surroundings as Bath with the magnificent backdrop of the Abbey and the Roman Baths. This Christmas extravaganza is in fact seen as more of an ‘event’ than a market. The market in 2022 was the most successful to date – coming after a two-year hiatus during the pandemic. The market originally came about at the instigation of two city councillors, Gitta Dawson

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and Marian McNair (who later became mayor). The idea was to celebrate the relationship with one of Bath’s twin cities, Aix-enProvence. The French town continues to share a chalet in Bath (selling cheese and lavender products) with its other twin cities Alkmaar and Braunschweig selling their own local goods. From its humble beginnings in 2001 when the market began with just 30 chalets and ran for just four days, Bath Christmas Market has emerged into something much bigger with its presence extending around the city. This year sees more than 250 traders taking part, with the market stretching around the Abbey and up Bath Street, Hot Bath Street and Milsom Street. This includes the offer of Christmas carts for small and micro-businesses in Green Street, three- and four-day lets designed for businesses to try out the market before, hopefully, renting a bigger chalet in the years that follow. The event – which is not run for profit – is certainly something

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of a money-spinner for the city. That said, not everyone is a fan of the Christmas stalls when they take over the streets of the city for 18 days because the market does cause disruption with street closures, but the organisers are always keen to work with smaller, independent outlets to find ways to extend the footfall of visitors to places outside of the market footprint. Whatever the view, it is the sellers that make the market. The emphasis is on handmade and Fairtrade products as well as sustainability. Marketing Manager Hannah Batey says, “We want to offer something that you can’t just go to any market to get, so the businesses are very artisan-focused, with handmade, traditionally made and ethically sourced products.” Sustainability encompasses all elements of the market – all areas are single-use plastic-free; a fossil-fuel-free generator is used; stallholders can use an electric bike and trailer to transport stock across the site; and both stallholders and visitors are encouraged to use public transport to reduce congestion in the city. What’s more, this year there will be no mass printing of maps; instead, printed map boards or light boxes will be on display, alongside an online version for website and mobile. Choosing the stallholders is certainly a big task for the organisers who this year received around 500 applications for the pitches, and each and every one is assessed thoroughly. There is always a need to bring in new ideas each year, but there are plenty of familiar faces that people will recognise, too. A majority of the market’s traders come from the South West, with a strong representation from Bath and the surrounding area. For market regulars there are lots of familiar and favourite stalls such as Paper Starlights and their pretty light lanterns as well as Somerset Lavender with natural products handmade on the farm, from wax melts to reed diffusers. There is always street entertainment adding to the atmosphere including community choirs, brass bands and street performers, alongside the wonderful Natural Theatre Company, all helping to bring some Christmas cheer to visitors of the city. New for this year is a reindeer trail around the outside of the market’s footprint, encouraging visitors to explore more of the double-UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bath and its wide-ranging retailers offering something for every budget. Another attraction of the market is that Bath doesn’t try to copy the format of the great German markets. Stallholders are asked to use LED white lights and not flashing or coloured ones, and there are no sound systems. So it is very much its own thing – and quintessentially British. The market’s continuing popularity is proof that whether you are buying cheese from Aix, a Christmas pudding from Devon or just soaking up the infectious, wintry atmosphere, it’s a singular place to be at this time of year.  The Bath Christmas Market will run from 26 November – 13 December 2026 throughout the city centre. Web: bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

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CITY PLEASURES / COFFEE

The Top Spots for Coffee Like many cities, Bath has no shortage of places to get a coffee and cake. Between well-loved chains and independent, local, favourites, there’s no shortage of spots for a good ol’ cup of Joe and a delicious bite to eat

re you a fan of a flat white? Or are you more of a caramel macchiato kind of dude? Maybe you’re always in search of your morning espresso, or a mocha as your daily indulgence. Either way, everyone has their preferred cup and the Bath coffee scene is booming. Whether it’s an early morning take-out, a mid-morning refreshment, or even an afternoon caffeine hit, enjoying quality coffee has become an essential part of most people’s day, and Bathonians are no exception. Bath’s baristas will serve up a cool £17 million worth of espressos, lattes, cappuccinos and flat whites every year. But if you’re new to Bath – how do you choose where to go for your good ol’ cup of Joe? We’ve rounded up some of the city’s best cafés and delis where you’ll discover plenty of great coffee blends, as well as fine pastries, yummy cakes and savoury snacks – all beautifully served. Simple pleasures start here.

POPPY’S BAKERY 15–16 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AY Cakes galore at Poppy’s Bakery, a beautiful little coffee shop and bakery situated directly on Pulteney Bridge, a world heritage site. Delicious pastries are cooked onsite everyday, why not enjoy one with a freshly ground espresso and a beautiful view over the weir! Lovely come rain or shine. Takeaways are also popular; they offer a meal deal which is ideal for a picnic down by the river or a hot chocolate and a Cornish pasty in the winter! Cream teas are an afternoon staple here with varying homemade scone options, look out for the blueberry scones especially, along side other favourites including Victoria Sponge, Bakewell Cake and Lemon Drizzle – made by the on-site bakery team. Opening hours – 8.45am – 5.30pm Monday – Friday, 8.45 – 6pm Saturdays and 8.45am – 5.30pm Sundays

CORTADO CAFÉ 7 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AS Web: cortadocafe.co.uk Cortado Café is a charming independent café in the heart of Bath, run by Argentinian-British couple Fran and Sophie. Renowned for its speciality coffee and relaxed, friendly atmosphere, the café offers an enticing selection of brunch and lunch dishes, alongside its signature Argentinian empanadas. Guests can also enjoy freshly prepared sandwiches, homemade bakes and a variety of seasonal specials, whether dining in or taking away. Sustainability is at the heart of the business, with a commitment to green energy, compostable packaging and the use of local suppliers, supporting fellow independent businesses in the area. With its welcoming ambience and international influence, Cortado Café provides the perfect spot for a morning coffee, a leisurely brunch or a light lunch while exploring the city. Opening hours: Monday–Friday, 8am – 4pm. Saturday, 9am – 5pm. Sunday, 9am – 4pm.

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CITY PLEASURES / COFFEE

NATA & CO

CAFÉ LUCCA

Nata & Co, 8 Bridge Street, BA2 4AS Web: nataco.uk

1–2 Bartlett Street, Bath BA1 2QZ Web: cafelucca.co.uk

Nata & Co in Bath brings you the true taste of Portugal with their famous, authentic, Pastéis de Nata – delicious Portuguese tarts baked fresh every day! Try the classic or explore new exciting flavours like pistachio, peanut butter, nutella, biscoff, blueberry tart and apple. A Vegan option is also available. Pair your treat with a great coffee and enjoy warm, friendly service. You will also find a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes and soups on the menu. Coffee and traditional/original nata for £5.95

QUIET STREET COFFEE 2 Quiet Street, Bath BA1 2JS A array of homemade cakes awaits you at Quiet Street Coffee, all made down the road in central Bath. Favourites include carrot cake, lemon drizzle and triple chocolate brownies. The rock cakes are also very popular! There’s a great variety of coffees, with all of the options available in freshly ground decaf as well. A popular spot for takeaway coffee, there is also plenty of seating on the ground floor, as well as down a spiral staircase into a colourful and cosy lounge. Serving a simple breakfast, lunch and tea and cake menu, the café can get busy so get there early. A delightful pitstop on the way into town, this pretty little café is situated between Milsom Street and Queen Square. Opening hours – 8am – 5.30pm Monday – Friday, 9am – 6pm on Saturdays & 9.30am – 5.30pm on Sundays.

Café Lucca revives and relaxes in equal measure. It serves wonderful food in a welcoming environment, offering freshly ground coffee and a light breakfast in the mornings, lunch from a selection of brightly coloured salads and bruschettas and panini, or for afternoon tea an array of tempting cakes. This is the perfect place for catching up with friends, or as a respite from shopping, and is one of Bath’s favourite places to see people and be seen. Deliciously fresh, modern Italian-style/Mediterranean food is served in the elegant and spacious surroundings of The Loft. All the fresh produce and Italian products are from small local family suppliers. Based in a traffic-free street in Bath’s boutique quarter, the restaurant is just two minutes’ walk from Milsom Street and The Assembly Rooms, and when the sun shines there are tables outside from where one can watch the world go by.

AND THERE’S MORE... ADVENTURE CAFÉ 5 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Web: adventurecafebar.co.uk

SOCIETY CAFÉ 4–5 Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AB Web: society-cafe.com

PICNIC COFFEE 9 Saracen Street, Bath BA1 5BR Web: picniccoffee.co.uk

MJÖLK CAFÉ 13 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LZ Web: mjolkshop.square.site

MOKOKO 6 Abbey Churchyard, Bath Bath BA1 1LY Web: mokokobakery.com

COLONNA & SMALL’S BATH 6 Chapel Row, Bath BA1 1HT Web: colonnacoffee.com

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POSTCARDS

Bath – As Seen on Screen

BATH’S GREAT PULTENEY STREET IS TRANSFORMED FOR BRIDGERTON,

REGENCY ROMPS “The dash of carriages, the heavy rumble of carts and drays, the bawling of newspapermen, muffin-men and milkmen, and the ceaseless clink of pattens...” That’s how Jane Austen described Lady Russell’s experience of driving through Bath in her 1817 novel Persuasion. Over two centuries on, the carts, drays, muffinmen and pattens are long gone – or are they? At least three adaptations of Persuasion have been filmed in Bath, most recently the thoroughly modern and controversial 2022 Netflix version starring Dakota Johnson. The BBC’s 1995 version proved to be more favourable with critics, but the supreme winner was the BBC’s six-part adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, which came out in the same year and starred Colin Firth as Fitzwilliam Darcy... most memorably, perhaps, in that wet-shirt scene, although (sadly) this was not filmed in Bath. The BBC/A&E Network’s 1987 adaptation of Northanger Abbey was, though – and the popular Sky Arts/Giles Coren 2017 documentary I Hate Jane Austen.

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Key Austen-related film and TV backdrops include the Royal Crescent, Sydney Place, Abbey Churchyard, Abbey Green, The Pump Room, Old Bond Street, the Assembly Rooms, Bath Street, North Parade Buildings and Gravel Walk. Director Mira Nair’s 2004 adaptation of William Makepeace Thackeray’s 1848 novel Vanity Fair (starring Reese Witherspoon alongside a host of iconic stage/screen superstars) gave us bountiful, big-screen Bath in abundance. Four years later, Saul Dibb’s 2008 historical drama The Duchess worked similar Bath blockbuster magic as Keira Knightley, Ralph Fiennes, Charlotte Rampling and Dominic Cooper starred as groovy Georgians trotting their well-heeled stuff in various locations across the city, most notably The Assembly Rooms and the Holburne Museum, at the apex of gracious Great Pulteney Street. Talking of which... Are you familiar with Bridgerton’s Lady Danbury’s exquisite home in an upper-class corner of 19th-century London? Well, that’s the Holburne, too! Since 2020, the very word Bridgerton (the huge Netflix historical fiction/romance smash hit) has become

Image courtesy of Visit West, Photography © Jamie Bellinger

From Sense and Sensibility to Bridgerton, and The Pursuit of Love to Sherlock, Bath’s heritage and picturesque locations continue to play a starring role on screen. Melissa Blease rolls the credits

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synonymous with Bath: all the exterior shots of the Featherington family’s fabulous house were filmed on the Royal Crescent, while Gunter’s Tea Shop, Lady Dee’s Hat Emporium, the Modiste Dress Shop, the Horse and Hop Pub, the market and Siena Rosso’s humble abode were all variously shot around Abbey Square, Abbey Green and Beauford Square. Bath reprised its role in the Bridgerton franchise in the 2023 prequel series Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, and season three arrived in summer 2024, profiling wallflower (and secret scandal sheet writer) Penelope Featherington (Nicola Coughlan) and her longtime crush, world traveller Colin Bridgerton (Luke Newton). Season four followed in 2026, turning the spotlight on Benedict Bridgerton (Luke Thompson) and his new love interest, the determined and captivating Sophie Baek (Yerin Ha). And the story continues: filming for a fifth season began in 2026, with Bath once again among the locations. LIGHTS, CAMERA – DRAMA! Tom Hooper’s epic, multi-award-winning 2012 musical film version of Victor Hugo’s 1862 novel Les Misérables beautifully recreated the sights and sounds of 19th-century Paris... in Bath. Remember the dramatic moment when Javert/Russell Crowe throws himself off the Pont au Change into the River Seine? It was neither the Pont au Change nor the River Seine; the scene was filmed on Pulteney Bridge and Bath Weir. Less dramatic, perhaps, but equally moving, the title character in Hettie Macdonald’s 2023 film adaptation of Rachel Joyce’s whimsical, poignant 2012 novel The Unremarkable Pilgrimage of Harold Fry (starring Jim Broadbent) passes through Bath city centre during his epic walking journey from South Devon to Berwick-upon-Tweed. More recently, courtesy of Netflix, the totally bingeworthy series Agatha Christie’s Seven Dials released in January 2026, brought Abbey Green and Great Pulteney Street to the screen. Set in 1925, the mystery begins at a lavish country-house party where a practical joke goes murderously wrong. The three-part series stars Mia McKenna-Bruce, Martin Freeman and Helena Bonham Carter.

NIKKI AMUKA-BIRD AS LADY RUSSELL AND DAKOTA JOHNSON AS ANNE ELLIOT IN PERSUASION, FILMED IN BATH STREET

MIA McKENNA-BRUCE AND NABHAAN RIZWAN IN THE SEVEN DIALS MYSTERY, FILMED IN ABBEY GREEN

FANTASTICAL FICTION On a rainy autumn day in October 2021, Parade Gardens, Pulteney Bridge and Pulteney Weir were transformed into a magical snowy backdrop for key scenes in Paul King’s Wonka starring Timothée Chalamet. The film’s narrative draws on the world of Roald Dahl’s 1964 novel Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and its original 1971 film adaptation; Wonka premiered in December 2023. In 2009, Bath’s Little Theatre Cinema (St Michael’s Place) was immortalised in another magical Roald Dahl spectacular: Wes Anderson’s stopmotion classic, Fantastic Mr. Fox. SMALL SCREEN, BIG IMPACT It would probably be easier to list the few remaining corners of Bath that haven’t been used as a backdrop across four seasons of quirky ITV detective drama McDonald & Dodds. And, being on contemporary drama territory, locations from the grand (Queen Square; the Royal Crescent; Royal Victoria Park) to the functional (the city council meeting rooms at The Guildhall; the council-leased allotments; Bath Leisure Centre) by way of various popular Bath

JASON WATKINS AND TALA GOUVEIA AS MCDONALD & DODDS, AT THE PARADE GARDENS

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Robert Viglasky / Theodora Films / © BBC Pictures

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is as picture-perfect as ancient, quintessentially English villages get and film production companies agree. Lacock Abbey featured in the BBC adaptations of Hilary Mantel’s Wolf Hall and its sequel Bring Up the Bodies, while Great Chalfield Manor and Garden (down the road from the Abbey) starred as Austen Friars, home of Thomas Cromwell. Lacock Abbey also doubled-up as the interior of Hogwarts in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (2001) and Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets (2002). Both the Abbey and the village featured in Fantastic Beasts: Crimes of Grindelwald (2017); His Dark Materials (BBC, 2019); Cranford (BBC 2007–10); Pride and Prejudice (BBC, 1995) and Justin Chadwick’s 2008 historical drama The Other Boleyn Girl. Dyrham Park (9 miles/14km north of Bath) is no stranger to period dramas either; this imposing National Trust property has enjoyed various big-screen roles including close-ups in James Ivory’s elegant 1993 tear-jerker The Remains of the Day (1993), John Alexander’s Sense and Sensibility (2008) and ITV’s 2019 historical drama Sanditon. The Dyrham Park mansion was also spotted as the exterior of Warleggan House in Poldark (BBC, 2015–2019)... and there was more Poldark at Bath’s Prior Park College for a ballroom scene, in Corsham (8 miles/13km south-west of Bath) and Wells (around 22 miles/35km north-east of Bath), most notably Wells Town Hall, which had a starring role as Warleggan Bank. 

watering holes including The Bell Inn (Walcot Street) are all clearly recognisable to viewers. You might not think that McDonald’s in SouthGate is a prime location, but the fast food giant filmed its spectacular 2017 Christmas advert complete with snowflakes and Christmas trees here. Elsewhere, key scenes in Emily Mortimer’s wild’n’witty adaptation of Nancy Mitford’s 1945 novel The Pursuit of Love (BBC, 2021) were filmed around No 1 Royal Crescent and Green Park Station; the Assembly Rooms took centre stage as the grand Brussels ball scene in ITV’s 2020 historical drama Belgravia; the Guildhall doubled-up as London’s Old Bailey court rooms in the BBC’s 2019 series The Trial of Christine Keeler; and Benedict Cumberbatch strutted his Sherlock stuff on the ancient cobbles of Queen Street when it was transformed into a Victorian-era street market for the BBC’s 2015 Sherlock Christmas Special. The romcom One Night in Bath by Stardom Films was also filmed around the city, starring John Hannah and Siobhan Redmond. AROUND AND ABOUT Several scenes in Steven Spielberg’s 2011 powerful World War I epic film War Horse were filmed in the village of Castle Combe (9 miles/14km north-east of Bath). You might also recognise the ancient, picturesque bridge from its close-up as a backdrop in the original film version of Dr Doolittle (1967), while pivotal scenes in Matthew Vaughan’s 2017 adventure film Stardust were filmed here. Meanwhile, the village of Lacock (15 miles/24km east of Bath)

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LILY JAMES IN THE 2021 VERSION OF THE BBC’S PURSUIT OF LOVE, FILMED IN OLD GREEN PARK STATION

TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET STARRING IN PAUL KING’S WONKA, FILMED IN BATH IN 2021

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Nigel Dando Member of The London Diamond Bourse Situated on Bath’s historic Pulteney Bridge, Nigel Dando began his career after he gained national Goldsmiths Diploma before going on study gemmology at the Sir John Cass College of Art, Whitechapel. Today he sells an eclectic mix of new, pre-owned and vintage jewellery and has a particular interest in pieces from the 1920-1960 era together with ranges of contemporary silver jewellery at affordable prices, many of which are one-off pieces, the emphasis being on quality and style. Another facet of the business is the buying of gold and silver items in any form or condition. Nigel also sells investment precious metals at what he believes to be the most competitive prices in the city. Being one of the few provincial members of The London Diamond Bourse, Nigel is in daily contact with the market. which enables him to offer undeniable expertise and value. He also offers a valuation service.

nigeldando.co.uk 11 Pulteney Bridge | Bath | BA2 4AY | Tel: 01225 464013 Wednesday-Friday: 10.30am-4.00pm. Saturday: 10am -1pm by appointment

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LUXURY SHOPPING at MALLORY

A selection of beautiful things from Bath’s shop of many wonders

4 7

8 9 11

10 1. Chopard Ice Cube 18ct Yellow Gold Diamond Ring, £5,680

2. OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm

4. Platinum Diamond Half Eternity Ring, £12,000

5. TUDOR Black Bay One 41mm 18ct Yellow

Steel Watch, £6,600

Gold and Steel Watch, £5,800

3. Marco Bicego Lunaria Twist

6. 18ct Yellow Gold Green Amethyst

18ct Yellow Gold Drop Earrings, £1,830

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and Diamond Drop Earrings, £2,350

7. 18ct Rose Gold and Tahitian Cultured Pearl and Diamond Drop Earrings, £2,890

8. 18ct Yellow and White Gold Diamond Bangle, £7,950 9. Platinum and 22ct Yellow Gold Emerald and Diamond Ring, £13,770

10. Chopard Happy Sport 30mm 18ct Rose Gold and Steel Watch, £8,540 11. 18ct White Gold Diamond Cluster Ring, £12,900

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7 8 10

9 1. Fope Essentials 18ct Yellow Gold Hoop Earrings, £6,770

2. 18ct Yellow Gold Diamond Cluster Pendant and Chain, £14,595

3. Patek Philippe Calatrava 18ct White Gold Watch Ref. 5226G-001, £38,150

4. Platinum Green Tourmaline and Diamond Ring, £7,690

5. 18ct White Gold Green Tourmaline Stud Earrings, £1,800

6. 18ct White Gold Diamond Line Bracelet, £12,100

7. 18ct Yellow Gold Diamond Hoop Earrings, £3,395

8. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Oystersteel and 18ct Yellow Gold Watch, £20,250

9. Panerai Radiomir Steel Watch. Model: PAM01334, £6,400

11 10. Sterling Silver Onyx Cufflinks, £180 11. Montblanc Meisterstück Black Ballpoint Pen, £440 Mallory, 1 – 5 Bridge Street, Bath, BA2 4AP Tel: 01225 788800 mallory-jewellers.com

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POSTCARDS

The Holburne

Image courtesy of The Holburne

We explore the history and reinvention of Bath’s most eclectic museum and discover Italian maiolica; works by Gainsborough, Pieter Brueghel and Turner; Renaissance treasures; Meissen porcelain; vases by Josiah Wedgwood as well as a world-class exhibition space for contemporary art

hen it’s not busy stealing the limelight in Netflix’s hit series Bridgerton – as Lady Danbury’s majestic abode, The Holburne on Great Pulteney Street is also home to one of the most fascinating museum collections in the West Country. Bridgerton used the building’s splendid facade as the backdrop to many spectacular and iconic scenes, making it a ‘must-visit’ place for all fans of the show. It stands on one of the finest Georgian thoroughfares in Bath, surrounded by glorious greenery and adjacent to the former 18th-century Sydney Gardens Vauxhall. Originally designed as a grand hotel in 1794, the impressive facade of the Holburne fronts a diverse collection of fine and decorative art, spanning centuries of culture. The collection is beautifully laid out in equally beautiful surroundings that seamlessly incorporate award-winning architect Eric Parry’s impressive 2011 extension, respectfully including contemporary themes against a backdrop of historic tradition. The Schroder Gallery, which opened on the lower ground floor in September 2025, further enriches the museum’s offering, displaying world-

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class Renaissance treasures on permanent loan from the Schroder family collection. There’s a richly textured wealth of artistic treasures to explore at the Holburne, ranging from grand portraits and Old Masters to historic furniture, tiny, highly detailed miniatures, intricate jewellery and sparkling antique silverware. The impressive former ballroom on the front upper level of the building is used to display ceramics and porcelain from the Renaissance to the Georgian era. This can be browsed and considered under the watchful gaze of portraits of 17th and 18th-century high society on the walls. The new gallery on the first floor adjacent to the grand Ballroom – also opened in 2025 – houses the Schroder family’s collection of 17th-century painting, mostly Netherlandish but including a major work by Claude Lorrain, the grandfather of the pastoral landscape. On the top floor, the museum offers the opportunity to discover more about Bath’s history as a fashionable, creative destination; examples of works by former Bath resident Thomas Gainsborough can be found here, alongside canvases by Stubbs, Zoffany and Ramsay. But whichever of the many displays captivate you on any level

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of the museum, views across either Sydney Gardens (to the rear) or all the way down magnificent Great Pulteney Street itself (to the front, from the ballroom) offer captivating works of living art in their own right. The Holburne is most definitely a family-friendly zone, with free activities inspired by current exhibitions, activity drawers conveniently placed throughout the extension galleries, and suggested family trails. Meanwhile, the museum’s fully-licensed garden café – serving an inviting variety of seasonal, freshly prepared food including fabulous cakes – opens out to the historic Sydney Gardens, and the museum shop stocks a range of books, gifts, homeware, stationery and stylish souvenirs. HISTORY The building now known as the Holburne Museum was originally designed by Thomas Baldwin as a two-storey hotel to serve the adjacent pleasure gardens (Sydney Gardens) in 1794. But after Baldwin was bankrupted, plans for the original hotel crumbled. In 1796, a new foundation stone was laid, marking the beginning of a brand new project designed by Charles Harcourt Masters. The new hotel opened in 1799 and became popular with visitors to the pleasure gardens and galas. Most notably, the latter were planned to coincide with the birthdays of George III and the Prince of Wales, and the opening night of the annual Bath Races and public breakfasts. Jane Austen and her family often attended the public breakfasts – when they first arrived in Bath in 1801, they took lodgings at 4 Sydney Place, just over the road. The hotel closed in 1836 and became a private lodging house. A third storey was added, and the two watchmen’s boxes that bookend the entrance/exits to the museum today were added around 1840. In 1830, Sir Thomas William Holburne and his three unmarried sisters took up residence a little over a mile away from Great Pulteney Street, at 10 Cavendish Crescent. Holburne – a former naval officer and Bath ‘gentleman of means’ – packed his

Jakob Fugger and Sybilla Artzt, Hans Burgkmair (1473–1531), 1498, oil on panel. Schroder Collection, photograph © Todd White Art Photography

Young visitor investigating one of the museum’s pull-out drawers. Photo Anna Barclay, courtesy The Holburne

modest townhouse with souvenirs, artworks, knickknacks and cultural and social paraphernalia collected during his naval career and on a series of Grand Tours to Europe in the 1820s. When Holburne’s aunt Catherine Cussans died in 1834, several trust funds bequeathed by Catherine allowed Holburne the means to expand his collection and to make frequent purchases at local auction houses, shops and sales. Supplemented by inherited family treasures – including portraits, porcelain and silverware – he added all manner of diverse artworks and social memorabilia to his hoard. These included miniatures, books and furniture, Roman coins and seals, 17th and 18th-century tableware and Chinese armorial ceramics... Holburne’s tastes were eclectic, and his collection became increasingly unique. Holburne died in 1874, aged 81. In 1882, his sister Mary Anne Barbara Holburne died, and bequeathed her brother’s collection of over 4,000 pieces to the people of Bath, intending the treasures to form “the nucleus of a Museum of Art for the city of Bath”. The Holburne Museum opened to the public in 1893, and since then, more than 2,500 plus objects have been acquired. In 1955, Ernest E. Cook – grandson of travel entrepreneur Thomas Cook – donated 10 paintings including works by Gainsborough, Stubbs and Turner to the museum. In 1963, former museum trustee J MacGregor Duncan bequeathed a collection of early Meissen porcelain and, in 1944, former trustee James Calder donated a comprehensive collection of English 18th-century porcelain to supplement the existing collection of Chelsea, Derby and Worcester. In 2008, the Holburne Museum closed its doors to the public to instigate major redevelopment work. This included refurbishment to the galleries and public spaces, and a brand new extension designed by world-acclaimed British architect Eric Parry. In 2011, the Holburne’s revamp was unveiled, revealing purpose-built temporary exhibition and teaching spaces, collections stores and a café. In 2025, the new Schroder Gallery in the basement, a space previously used as archive and picture stores, was opened, designed by Eric Parry Associates with Real Studios. POSTCARD from BATH / 55

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Eric Ravilious, The Westbury Horse, 1939. Image courtesy of: Towner Collection, Towner Eastbourne

EXHIBITIONS AT THE HOLBURNE

Johan Zoﬀany (1733-1810) The Auriol and Dashwood Families, c.1783-7

 Visit: The Holburne Museum, Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB  Tel: 01225 388569  For admission prices and information on special exhibitions and events visit the website.  Open daily: 10am to 5pm (Sundays and Bank Holidays 11am to 5pm) Closed 24, 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan.  Web: holburne.org

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Ancient Landscape, Modern Times: Eric Ravilious and the Artists of the Chalk Downs 3 October 2026 – 10 January 2027. Bringing together works by Eric Ravilious, William Nicholson, Paul Nash, John Nash, Tirzah Garwood and Peggy Angus, this evocative exhibition explores the fascination of British artists with the rolling chalk landscapes of southern England. Through paintings, drawings, prints and archival material, it reveals how these ancient landscapes inspired a generation seeking to reinvent landscape painting for the modern age during the turbulent decades between the two World Wars. Curated by leading Ravilious authority James Russell.

Richard Slee: Sunlit Uplands and Withdrawing Rooms 25 September 2026 – 10 January 2027. One of Britain’s most celebrated contemporary ceramic artists, Richard Slee brings wit, colour and a playful sense of the unexpected to the Holburne. Sunlit Uplands fills the Ballroom with an extraordinary archipelago of more than 400 meticulously crafted ceramic islands, while Withdrawing Rooms takes a fresh look at the familiar objects of our interiors. Picture frames, oversized candlesticks, a clock and ceramic swans are transformed into intriguing works that invite visitors to look again at the everyday.

Richard Slee, Uplands-210-2021. Glazed ceramic and glass Image courtesy the Artist and Hales London and New York. © Richard Slee

NOTABLE WORKS Seven works by Thomas Gainsborough including his ethereal Lady in a Blue Cloak, Johan Zoffany’s The Auriol and Dashwood Families (a snapshot of colonial life in 1780s Bengal), The Somerset Maugham collection of Georgian theatrical portraits, three works by Pieter Brueghel the Younger and Thomas Lawrence’s Study for Arthur Atherley, somehow all the more powerfully characterful for being a preparatory work-in-progress. The Schroder Gallery in the basement includes some great masterpieces of the silversmith’s art, such as The Schwarzenberg Nef, a large silver ship; a rare Mechanical Celestial Globe, and The Aldobrandini Tazza (one of a set of 12 dishes). There are also works by Lucas Cranach the Elder and Hans Holbein the Elder, and notably Hans Burgkmaier’s important portrait of the great Augsburg banker Jakob Fugger and his wife Sybilla Artzt. The intricate, elaborate, richly detailed Beadwork Basket (artist unknown) is part of the Holburne’s significant collection of 17thcentury embroidery. There is also Italian maiolica everywhere. Holburne was a big fan of the uniquely beautiful, richly decorated Italian tin-glazed pottery dating from the Renaissance period and the Schroder Gallery also contains masterpieces of 16th-century Italian maiolica, including The Mazo Dish painted with the allegory of the civilising power of Eloquence. Last of all, the museum shop is packed with curated gift ideas and art books, inspired by the collection and from exhibitions. 

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POSTCARDS

Victoria Art Gallery Bath offers a diverse variety of cultural delights. Melissa Blease explores the city’s very own public art museum dedicated to paintings, sculpture and decorative arts

he Victoria Art Gallery is one of Bath’s most loved cultural attractions and the most popular art gallery in the region with an outstanding collection of 1,500 decorative art treasures and paintings on permanent display. Since it opened its doors to the public in 1900, the gallery space within this subtly monumental Victorian building has become intrinsically woven into the fabric of day-to-day life in Bath, remaining as consistently popular with locals as it is with Heritage City visitors, some 80,000 of whom browse the gallery’s collections every year. The airy, spacious two-storey building houses a huge collection of paintings, sketches, sculpture, artefacts and decorative art treasures dating from the 15th century all the way to the present day, showcasing all kinds of fascinating treasures from paintings by former Bath resident Thomas Gainsborough, Swiss-German 20th-century expressionist Paul Klee, a simply stunning, enigmatic

Small Harbour Scene by Paul Klee (1879–1940)

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portrait of Polish artist Anna Bilinska, painted by British artist Emmeline Deane to an irreverent Posh Art pot by Turner Prizewinning contemporary artist Grayson Perry, and there’s also a selection of World War I recruitment posters. Eclectic? Yes indeed – but in the most intelligently curated, enlightening way. The gallery’s ground floor space hosts exhibitions that change on a regular basis (generally around every two months) for which an entrance fee is charged. The permanent collection in the Upper Gallery on the first floor is free to enter. This large gallery reopened in 2025 following an extensive conservation project to return it to its Victorian splendour and displays works from the Council’s own art collection. With five centuries of European art on show across two rooms, this gracious space is flooded by natural light, offering an atmosphere of calm contemplation in which to browse, pause and generally enjoy the culturally enriching experience. There isn’t an on-site café but there are many in the immediate vicinity to enjoy before or after your visit. Make time to visit the ground floor shop to browse a uniquely charming selection of books, arty gifts, postcards, greeting cards and collection/exhibition catalogues. HISTORY Today a Grade II* listed building, the Victoria Art Gallery’s original edifice was designed in 1897 by John McKean Brydon, a Scottish architect who developed a reputation for his expertise in designing public buildings including the St Peter’s Hospital in London’s Henrietta Street (Covent Garden) and Chelsea Public Library on London’s King’s Road. In 1891, Brydon won a competition to enlarge Bath Guildhall – a project that forms a continuous building structure that includes the covered Guildhall Market, the Bath and North East Somerset Council chamber and the city’s Register Offices. Built in 1900 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, the Victoria Art Gallery offered a public library downstairs and a gallery upstairs, but was expanded in 1990 to house and display only works of art. Work by painters including Thomas Gainsborough, Thomas Malton and Thomas Barker – all of whom have strong connections to Bath – offer a unique insight into the changing lives and landscapes of the people and places in and around the city of Bath through the ages. Every year, the Victoria Art Gallery showcases work by the cream of the regional contemporary artistic talent, hosting the annual Bath Society of Artists exhibition and offering members

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Main image: Photography by Lisa Whiting

THE UPPER GALLERY

of the public the opportunity to vote for their favourite artwork. The BSA was founded in 1904 and many distinguished painters including Patrick Heron, Mary Fedden, Howard Hodgkin and Walter Sickert have exhibited with the society. ON SHOW Take a stroll around the Victoria Art Gallery’s exterior and you’ll find Anglo-Italian sculptor Andrea Carlo Lucchesi’s statue of Queen Victoria. There are also friezes of classical figures by fellow New Sculpture movement artist George Anderson Lawson. Elsewhere, you are greeted in the entrance hall by local artist Sophie Ryder’s playful yet powerful bronze sculpture Lady Hare on a Dog. Other popular items from the gallery’s permanent collection include J.M.W. Turner’s haunting, dramatic West Front of Bath Abbey, the ethereal Adoration of the Magi (attributed to 15th-century painter Hugo van der Goes) and a wondrous, highly important portrait of Henry VIII (after Holbein) which has been dated to the mid-16th century and looks magnificent following recent conservation treatment.

Artworks from the recent Bath Society of Artists Exhibition

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Portrait of Polish artist Anna Bilinska painted by Emmeline Deane, oil on canvas (1886)

Meanwhile, the eclectic array of British porcelain, delicate Georgian perfume bottles and tableware, Bohemian glass and pottery dogs in the gallery’s decorative arts collection offers an art gallery version of an Aladdin’s cave. And, if you have time, enjoy the gallery’s wondrous architectural period features – most notably an impressive coffered (panelled) dome ceiling in its first-floor Rotunda – the landing area at the top of the grand staircase. Decorated with gilded, embossed signs of the Zodiac, this stunning architectural feature was part of the original building and sits upon six marble columns. Whether you’re an art enthusiast or simply looking to discover another side of Bath’s rich cultural heritage, the Victoria Art Gallery offers a rewarding experience. With its remarkable collections, changing exhibitions and magnificent Victorian surroundings, it’s a place where there’s always something new to discover – and plenty of reasons to return. 

 Visit: The Victoria Art Gallery, Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AT  Open Tuesday to Sunday (and Bank Holiday Mondays) from 10.30am–5pm (closed 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan)  Standard ticket price, adult: £10, student: £9.50, children age 6–18: £5, under 6: Free  Web: victoriagal.org.uk  Tel: 01225 477233

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The Watersplash Henry Herbert La Thangue (1859–1929)

EXHIBITIONS AT THE VICTORIA ART GALLERY The World of The Snowman™ 20 November 2026 – 28 February 2027 Step into the magical world of Raymond Briggs’ much-loved The Snowman in this enchanting exhibition celebrating one of Britain’s best-loved Christmas classics. First published in 1978, Briggs’ beautifully illustrated story of a young boy and his snowman captured the imaginations of generations, before being brought to life in the iconic animated film four years later. This delightful family-friendly exhibition features original book illustrations, animation sets from the film and artwork from its charming sequel, The Snowman and The Snowdog. Visitors can explore the creative world behind these timeless characters, enjoy an interactive family activity area and discover a recreation of the famous red aeroplane. Combining nostalgia, imagination and a little festive wonder, The World of The Snowman offers a heartwarming experience for children and adults alike, celebrating the enduring magic of friendship and childhood.

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ICARUS

SILVER JEWELLERY

Icarus Jewellery is an independent silver jewellery shop located in the heart of Bath, on Pulteney Bridge and offers a great selection of handmade unique designs from their store and online shop. The boutique also offers UK and international shipping.

3 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 463693 WhatsApp: 07376 416833 www.icarusjewellery.com instagram.com/icarusjewellery

facebook.com/icarusjewellery

Opening Times: Monday-Friday 9:30am - 5:30pm Saturday 9:30am - 6pm Sunday 10am - 5pm

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TOUR / BATH’S INDEPENDENT ART SCENE

Art and Collectables Bath boasts a wealth of independent galleries, alongside a thriving community of talented artists and craftspeople. We can choose to visit the galleries of contemporary artists who combine their studio with a gallery space, or see high-profile works and an eclectic range of craftwork from different makers, including jewellery, ceramics and art prints. Here are some of the places to visit for uplifting creative inspiration or for one-of-a-kind gift shopping.

BEAUX ARTS BATH 12–13 York Street, Bath BA1 1NG Open Monday – Saturday, 10am–5pm and by appointment Tel: 01225 464850 Web: beauxartsbath.co.uk

Autumn Nasturtiums by Helen Simmonds

Founded in 1979, Beaux Arts is the longest-established commercial gallery in Bath, and is the sister gallery to Beaux Arts in Mayfair. The gallery specialises in the very best in contemporary painting, sculpture and studio ceramics. Works by well-known artists of the 20th century such as Dame Elisabeth Frink, Sir Terry Frost and Dame Lucie Rie rub shoulders with new luminaries like Nathan Ford, Helen Simmonds, Anna Gillespie and Akiko Hirai. Beaux Arts has a wellearned reputation for curating exciting exhibitions. Artists’ work is given plenty of wall space and, with its high ceilings and numerous rooms to explore, the gallery is light, airy and an ideal environment in which to enjoy beautiful and thought-provoking works of art.

GALLERY NINE 9B Margaret's Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Open Monday – Saturday, 10am–5pm Tel: 01225 319197 Web: galleryninebath.com Founded in 2005, Gallery Nine is directed by Bo Collier, who brings 30 years of gallery experience to a carefully curated collection of studio ceramics, jewellery, textiles, paintings and original artists’ prints. Pieces are selected for their quality, originality and craftsmanship and the space is frequented by collectors, tourists and local customers alike. The gallery curates an exciting exhibition programme three times a year in spring, summer and at Christmas focusing on unique and affordable original British craft and contemporary works of art. Gallery Nine champions both established artists and emerging talent, showcasing the breadth and originality of contemporary British art and craft. It can be found in Margaret’s Buildings, a charming Georgian street lined with independent shops and galleries.

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Anna Lambert Grass Woods Ceramic Vessel

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TOUR / BATH’S INDEPENDENT ART SCENE

THE BARTON GALLERY 28 Barton Street, Bath BA1 1HH Open Monday – Saturday (closed Tuesday), 11am–5pm; Sunday, 11am–2pm Web: thebartongallery.com The Barton Gallery is the latest thriving and eclectic addition to Bath’s independent shops in the city centre, located between the Theatre Royal and Queen Square. It is spread over three floors, colour-drenched in a mesmerising shade of blue and filled with serene oil paintings, art prints, jewellery, porcelain lights, antique furniture and Ikat fabrics – all beautifully curated by local artist Agnes Pollock, in collaboration with other local artists and creatives. Since opening its doors in May 2025, it is the place to go for interior inspiration, affordable art and unique gifts. It has already established a loyal following and is proving to be very popular with both local residents and visitors to the city.

BATH CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS’ FAIR AT GREEN PARK STATION

Second Sundays of November and December, and April – December 2027 (excluding August), 10am–5pm Web: bcaf.co.uk

Artwork by Teresa Poole

The award-winning monthly Bath Contemporary Artists’ Fair (BCAF) is committed to bringing the best of contemporary art to the heart of Bath. It has created a regular space where artists can network, share ideas, connect with the public, and where the public can connect with art. Visitors can see the works of local artists and admire fine art, photography, sculpture, textiles, ceramics and much more, all under the vaulted glass roof of Green Park Station. Make a day of it and enjoy the foodie treats found at the station too. For updates and exhibiting artists visit the website.

ATELIER RAD 76 Walcot Street, Bath, BA1 5BD Open Thursday – Sunday, 10am–5pm Web: atelierrad.com

Saint Sebastian by Rad Husak

Atelier Rad is a distinctive contemporary art gallery and working studio established by artist Rad Husak. Combining a creative workspace with an intimate exhibition setting, the gallery offers visitors an opportunity to discover Husak’s own work alongside that of other artists. With artistic practice at its heart, Atelier Rad celebrates individuality, imagination and the creative process, providing an engaging environment in which to explore contemporary art at close quarters. The combination of studio and gallery brings a particularly personal dimension to the experience, offering a fascinating connection between the making and appreciation of art. Welcoming and characterful, Atelier Rad is an intriguing addition to Bath’s independent arts scene and a rewarding destination for art lovers and curious visitors alike.

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POSTCARDS

The American Museum & Gardens Melissa Blease gives us an introduction to the American Museum & Gardens at Claverton Manor group during the Second World War, after which Bath Domestic Science College used the manor as a hall of residence until 1956. The American Museum story itself begins in 1958, when British antiques dealer John Judkyn and the American psychiatrist and collector Dr Dallas Pratt (partners in both their personal and professional lives) purchased Claverton Manor and eventually turned it into a museum to celebrate American decorative arts and furniture. With the help of furniture restorer Nick Bell Knight and Ian McCallum, who became the museum’s first director, the team worked tirelessly to transform the manor from a state of neardereliction while collecting artefacts and recreating period rooms from historic American houses, each carefully selected component (including panelling and floors shipped to Britain enabling period rooms to be painstakingly recreated in perfect detail) testifying to the artistry and history of American artisans and domestic life. The American Museum & Gardens opened its doors to the public in 1961. Some 57 years later, the American Museum Gardens were transformed by Washington DC-based landscape gardeners Oehme, van Sweden, marking the company’s first UK commission. The £2m makeover and refurbishment was unveiled by celebrity gardener Alan Titchmarsh in 2018.

CLAVERTON MANOR COMMANDS SPECTACULAR VIEWS ACROSS THE LIMPLEY STOKE VALLEY

IMAGE: Courtesy of The American Museum & Gardens / Caspar Farrell

or more than 50 years, the American Museum & Gardens has attracted visitors from across the world to experience the impeccable reconstructions of the rooms of 19th-century American family homes, the vast collection of American decorative arts, crafts and textiles, a fine display of American Folk Art, and the captivating gardens. And Claverton Manor – the grand, imposing mansion in which the museum is based – has a fascinating history all of its own. Early owners of the estate (dating back to the early 17th century) include British MP Sir Edward Hungerford (d.1607). Ralph Allen – postmaster, philanthropist and former owner of Bath stone quarries, that supplied the stone for many of Bath’s most iconic historic buildings – purchased the manor in 1758, restoring and rebuilding it, and creating a peaceful retreat away from the city centre. Although Allen spent most of his time at his Palladian-styled mansion at Prior Park, he visited Claverton regularly and established a tree-lined road that linked the two properties. During the Skrine family’s ownership, the gardens were the venue for Winston Churchill’s first public speech, in 1897; a plaque outside the main entrance marks this historic moment. In the years that followed, the house was the headquarters of an RAF barrage balloon

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THE NEW AMERICAN GARDEN

Today, the American Museum & Gardens is home to many thousands of items that tell the story of the lives of American people from the earliest settlers through collections and displays both inside and out, while keeping the UK abreast with American contemporary culture. YOUR VISIT The American Museum’s permanent collection includes Dallas Pratt’s renowned collection of Renaissance maps, alongside a dedicated Textile Room showcasing early examples of whole-cloth quilts (including Hawaiian and Amish), appliqué work, and a selection of Navajo and New Mexican weavings, rugs, coverlets and samplers. The American Folk Art Collection is considered to be the greatest of its kind in Europe, featuring portraits, monumental sculptures and stunning carvings, while several immaculately recreated and evocative period rooms bring domestic American history vividly to life. Until 3 January, visitors young and old alike can enjoy Circus of Curiosities: An Exhibition of Moving Marvels, featuring vibrant, witty mechanical sculptures that spring to life at the push of a button, alongside plenty of opportunities to play and create. Following the Museum’s winter closure, it reopens on 13 February with Accidentally Wes Anderson, an exhibition inspired by the distinctive photography phenomenon. Regular events at the museum include weekly pop-up talks, guided garden walks, live music, outdoor theatre and barbecues. Round off your visit with a browse in the Gallery Shop and enjoy American-inspired refreshments in the American Garden Deli, set against panoramic views of Limpley Stoke Valley. 

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Perched on an east-facing limestone bluff adjacent to the main building itself, The American Museum Gardens encapsulate the USA’s garden design revolution borne of trailblazing Washington DC-based landscape architects Wolfgang Oehme and James van Sweden (OvS). OvS sought to rebuke the tyranny of the lawn and ‘foundational planting’ and instead to evoke the grandeur of the American prairies and introduce a new palette of plants. The 2.5-acre New American Gardens at the American Museum was opened in 2018 and offers visitors the unique opportunity to browse the designs that represent the OvS vision. The design hinges on the circuitous Winding Way pathway that took inspiration from Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello and connects the gardens (including a children’s garden), arboretum, house, exhibition space and café, with wheelchair and buggy-friendly access encouraging every visitor to see everything on offer, with the wilderness trail and surrounding parkland offering further opportunities to explore. Splashes of vibrant colour nestle in all the borders, native American flora adds fascination, swathes of grasses and plumes whisper on the breeze and heavy-set blooms add depth and gravitas, alongside glorious panoramic views of the Limpley Stoke Valley and a turf amphitheatre nestling into the natural topography, used to host outdoor music and theatre events at the museum. Six larger-than-life bust sculptures of key figures from American history are featured along the garden’s pathways, including President Abraham Lincoln and Founding Father Alexander Hamilton, created by British sculptor Angela Conner. Extensive changes were made to the Mount Vernon Garden, following new research into how President George Washington’s garden looked during his lifetime; the Parterre now features 2,100 Buxus microphylla ‘Herrenhausen’ plants laid out as an enormous fleur-de-lis, paying homage to the Marquis de Lafayette – a French aristocrat and military officer who led American troops in the Continental Army during the War of Independence, and who became a lifelong friend of Washington.

The American Museum & Gardens, Claverton Manor, Claverton, Bath BA2 7BD

 

Tel: 01225 460503 Open: Tuesday-Sunday until 3 January 2027. Closed 4 January-12 February; reopening 13 February 2027. Also open Bank Holidays and Mondays during local school holidays. For specific opening times for different parts of the site, admission prices and accessibility details, visit the website.

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IMAGE: Photography by Joe Short. JoeShort.com

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CONVERSATIONS

Pride. Passion. Roar. Maximus the Lion – Mascot, Bath Rugby

Welcome to the lion’s den... Match days at The Rec wouldn’t be quite the same without a certain magnificent mascot working the crowd. Meet Maximus, a proud member of the Blue, Black and White family since 2013

e’s one of the most recognisable faces at The Rec, a tireless supporter of the Blue, Black and White and quite possibly the only member of the Bath Rugby family who never has a bad hair day. We caught up with Maximus to talk match-day nerves, rituals, maintaining a perfect mane and life as Bath’s most conspicuous lion. Maximus, for anyone who hasn’t had the pleasure, how would you describe your role at Bath Rugby? Officially, I’m the mascot. But I prefer Chief Roar Officer. I’m there to get The Rec going, keep everyone entertained and make sure the opposition knows exactly what they’re in for. You’ve been part of Bath Rugby since 2013. Has the job changed much? I’ve got a little wiser. The supporters have got louder. And I’ve learned never to turn my back on a small child when my tail is within grabbing distance.

Do you ever get nervous before a big match? Nervous? I’m a lion. Next question. Who gets louder: you or the Bath supporters? Me individually. Them collectively. It’s a very effective partnership. Have you ever been tempted to get onto the pitch and help out? Frequently. But apparently there are rules about these things. Plus, I get through too many gum shields. What’s the hardest part of being a mascot? People pulling your tail... Yes, you know who you are! And the best part? Meeting the supporters. Particularly the younger ones. For some of them, their first visit to The Rec is a really big occasion. If I can make it even more memorable, I’ve done my job. You’ve seen some memorable moments at The Rec, but winning the treble in 2025 must take some beating? That was special. Very special. Three trophies, one incredible season and an awful lot to roar about. I may have celebrated more than usual. I slept well that night

“Nervous? I’m a lion. Next question”

What does Bath mean to you? It’s the cat’s whiskers, a beautiful city, it loves its rugby and there aren’t many places where a stadium feels quite so much a part of the city itself. On match day you can feel the whole place buzzing towards kick-off.

What does a typical match day look like for you? Early start. Check the weather. Check the mane. Limber up. Then it’s out to meet the supporters and roar some atmosphere. Once the game starts, things get serious.

What does Maximus do when he’s off duty? I like to keep a low profile. A little exercise, plenty of rest and the occasional quiet stroll around Bath. Although going unnoticed when you’re a six-foot lion is harder than you might imagine.

How do you maintain that fabulous mane? Years of dedication. People underestimate the amount of work involved. I won’t reveal all my secrets, but let’s just say the West Country wind and rain isn’t always helpful. You can’t represent Bath Rugby looking anything less than magnificent.

What are you enjoying most this season? Big games, big tries, big noise. The Rec packed, the Blue, Black and White flying and plenty of reasons to roar. Bring it on.

What’s the best thing about match day at The Rec? That moment when the place really comes alive. A big Bath try, everyone on their feet, the noise rolling around the ground… even a lion gets goosebumps. Although, to be honest, I’m not sure if lions do get goosebumps.

Who’s the biggest character behind the scenes at Bath Rugby? Nice try. I’ve been here since 2013 and one of the reasons I’ve lasted this long is knowing when to keep my mouth shut. Finally, Maximus. Bath Rugby in three words? Pride. Passion. Roar.  bathrugby.com POSTCARD from BATH / 67

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CITY STORIES / MALLORY

Katie Vander Woerd, Managing Director, Mallory Jewellers

Patek Philippe at Mallory

A Tradition of Time For more than a century, Mallory Jewellers has remained a constant presence in Bath, shaped by a focus on craftsmanship, discretion, and long-term relationships. Its longstanding partnership with Patek Philippe, one of the most revered names in watchmaking, reflects a shared commitment to heritage and the enduring value of time

here are few names in watchmaking that carry the same quiet authority as Patek Philippe. Regarded by many as the pinnacle of traditional horology, its reputation has been shaped over generations through discipline, technical mastery and an uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship. These same principles have also defined its relationship with Mallory, a partnership of more than 25 years, firmly established in the heart of Bath. Founded in Geneva in 1839, Patek Philippe occupies a singular position within the world of fine watchmaking. It is the last independent family-owned Genevan watch manufacturer, an increasingly rare distinction in a global luxury landscape. The company has been owned by the Stern family since 1932 and is today led by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe. This continuity of ownership has allowed the brand to maintain an unwavering focus on excellence, preserving a level of integrity and consistency that few others can claim. What sets Patek Philippe apart is not simply heritage, but the depth and rigour of its watchmaking, supported by a long history of technical innovation with more than 100 patents. Each timepiece reflects exceptional expertise, combining traditional hand-finishing with advanced mechanical engineering. The manufacture is widely regarded as a benchmark for complications. Creation can span many months, and in the case of the most complex pieces, several years. Produced in limited numbers, these watches represent the highest expression of mechanical watchmaking. 68 / POSTCARD from BATH

Every detail is considered. Movements are developed and produced in-house, with components finished and adjusted by hand to an exceptional standard. Even elements that remain unseen are treated with the same level of care, reflecting a philosophy rooted in discipline rather than display. As a familyowned manufacture, Patek Philippe has established its own quality criteria through the Patek Philippe Seal, recognised as one of the most exacting standards in watchmaking. It applies to every stage of creation, from design to manufacturing, encompassing technical performance as well as aesthetic integrity. Patek Philippe’s design language reflects the same discipline that defines its watchmaking. Often described as understated at first glance, each timepiece reveals a high level of technical complexity on closer inspection. Careful attention is given to proportion, clarity and legibility, ensuring that even the most intricate complications remain composed and balanced. The manufacture advances its collections with continuity and independence, guided by a long-term vision, resulting in timepieces defined by technical mastery and timeless design. This sense of longevity is central to the brand’s identity. A Patek Philippe is not created for a moment, but for a lifetime and beyond. It is intended to be worn, valued and ultimately passed on. To acquire a Patek Philippe is to enter a tradition that values continuity and responsibility. Each timepiece is created with the future in mind, intended to be passed from one generation to the next. The Patek Philippe Seal extends beyond production,

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CITY STORIES / MALLORY

covering the entire lifetime of every watch created since 1839, including maintenance, repair and restoration, carrying with it both technical excellence and personal significance. Few objects combine these qualities with such consistency, which is why the brand continues to hold a unique position within the world of luxury.

The relationship between Mallory and Patek Philippe has developed with a strong sense of alignment, shaped by shared values and a consistent approach to presentation and client experience. This philosophy aligns naturally with Mallory. Founded in 1898, Mallory is a fifth-generation family jeweller with its own deep-rooted heritage. From its historic premises in Bath, the business has built its reputation on trust, expertise and longstanding client relationships. Over time, it has become an established destination for fine watchmaking, serving a loyal and discerning clientele. The relationship between Mallory and Patek Philippe has developed with a strong sense of alignment, shaped by shared values and a consistent approach to presentation and client experience. As part of its ongoing redevelopment, Mallory will unveil an expanded Patek Philippe showroom in February 2027, marking a further milestone in the longstanding association between two independent, family-owned houses and reflecting their continued commitment to excellence.

For Katie Vander Woerd, the relationship is defined by a deep alignment of values: “Patek Philippe represents everything we value as an independent family jeweller, heritage, craftsmanship and longevity. Our relationship with the brand has developed over more than 25 years and continues to go from strength to strength. There is a genuine sense of partnership, built on mutual respect and a shared commitment to excellence. We are proud to present Patek Philippe within an expanded, dedicated space at the heart of our Bridge Street showroom, as part of its ongoing redevelopment.” The prestige of Patek Philippe ultimately lies in its consistency, in its ability to uphold the same principles across generations. The partnership with Mallory reflects these same qualities, bringing together two independent family businesses with a shared outlook and a commitment to craftsmanship. Mallory Jewellers 1–5 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AP Tel: 01225 788800 Web: mallory-jewellers.com POSTCARD from BATH / 69

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CREATIVE CITY / THE JEWELLERS

Bath’s Independent Goldsmiths

Let us introduce you to four of Bath’s independent goldsmiths and jewellery designers and find out how they got into the trade

eceiving a piece of jewellery rarely disappoints, especially when it’s a bespoke item from one of Bath’s smaller independent goldsmiths. From diamond rings to vintage earrings, antiques to gold bracelets, the city’s experts have got plenty of unique pieces that make the perfect gift for loved ones. As a city renowned for its independent businesses and exceptional shopping, Bath serves plenty of locals and visitors from across the world who visit the local goldsmiths in search of that special something. This reflects a growing desire for something unique, personal or specially designed. We gathered together four of the city’s most prominent goldsmiths to discover how they entered the trade, what inspires their work and what makes their jewellery so special.

NIGEL DANDO With a Bath-based goldsmith for a father and having been brought up surrounded by second-hand silver, jewellery, vintage pieces and gorgeous antiques, it’s not surprising that Nigel Dando went into the jewellery business from a young age. Upon becoming an apprentice at 16, Nigel was struck by the quality and style of jewellery dating from the early 20th century to the 1950s. The classic shapes, cuts and quality of pieces from these decades caught 70 / POSTCARD from BATH

If you want to get to the top of the goldsmiths’ ladder, then you need a whole host of qualifications under your belt Nigel’s eye, and he quickly made this his key area of interest and expertise that he has continued to this present day. After gaining the National Goldsmiths’ Diploma, Nigel went on to study gemmology at the Sir John Cass College of Art in Whitechapel in his 20s. As he recalls, this gave him a significant insight into the trade of gemstones, understanding how they are created and used in handmade jewellery. While his father was incredibly happy that his son had decided to go into the goldsmiths’ business, Nigel’s goldsmith training was rather different to what it was in his father’s day, where official qualifications weren’t as in demand. Instead, his father’s contemporaries relied heavily on their own knowledge and personal research into individual pieces. This is in stark contrast to the present day, as Nigel stresses, as

IMAGE: TBM

Nigel Dando

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CREATIVE CITY / THE JEWELLERS

if you want to get to the top of the goldsmiths’ ladder now, you need a whole host of qualifications under your belt. After working in the family business for a number of years, Nigel established his shop on Pulteney Bridge in 2002. He sells an eclectic mix of new, pre-owned and vintage jewellery, much of which dates from 1920–1960, along with ranges of contemporary silver jewellery. Many are high-quality, one-off pieces that you won’t find anywhere else – he doesn’t stock any brands you would usually find on the high street. The shop’s stock changes almost weekly, with new and unusual items appearing all the time. Nigel says: “I never know what is going to come through the door.” You get the sense that never knowing what rare pieces might come through the door is what keeps Nigel on his toes. Sometimes he can have 10–20 customers a day asking for their pieces to be valued and purchased over the counter, demonstrating just how quickly his stock can change. While he does buy and sell items from his shop, Nigel visits up to 10 antique fairs a year, both to scout out any rare products or to sell some of his items to the market. Nigel also buys and sells gold and silver in any form or condition, and sells precious metals at competitive prices. Additionally, he is happy to offer free advice on selling items, insurance and valuations.

Nigel Dando 11 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AY Tel: 01225 464013 Web: nigeldando.co.uk

Nicholas Wylde

NICHOLAS WYLDE In 1987, a young goldsmith opened a jewellery shop in Bath with a vision: to create pieces people could treasure for a lifetime. In 2027, Wylde Jewellers celebrates 40 years of bringing that vision to life. What began as one shop has grown into an award-winning independent jeweller, with boutiques and on-site workshops in Bath and Clifton, Bristol, and a reputation for distinctive design, exceptional gemstones and personal service. Nicholas discovered the craft almost by chance. His father’s stationery shop stood in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, where conversations with local jewellers inspired him to train at the Birmingham School of Jewellery. He later moved to Bath, honing his skills as both a goldsmith and designer before opening his own business at just 24. His sister Corrinda helped run the first shop, and growing demand soon led them to Northumberland Place, where the Bath boutique remains today. Nicholas’s eye for colour and remarkable gemstones has shaped the business ever since. He pairs traditional goldsmithing skills with an instinct for striking, individual design, creating jewellery with a character all its own. That approach continues in both the collections and the bespoke pieces brought to life by the team of designers and craftspeople he has built around him. From bespoke commissions to the transformation of treasured family jewellery, their work combines traditional craftsmanship with fresh ideas, creating pieces that are as personal as they are beautiful.

Wylde’s name is synonymous with distinctive design, exceptional gemstones and personal service

Perhaps his most distinctive achievement is the Wylde Flower Diamond®: an exclusive, patented 81-facet cut with a flower at its heart. It captures the imagination and ambition that have driven Nicholas throughout his career. As Nicholas puts it: “Diamonds have always been a girl’s best friend, especially our Wylde Flower Diamond®. It has more cut facets than any other brilliant-cut diamond for a special sparkle you won’t find anywhere else in the world.” As Wylde Jewellers celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2027, the milestone belongs to Nicholas and the talented team who share his dedication to the craft. From a young goldsmith’s first shop to an award-winning jeweller with two thriving shops, it is an extraordinary Bath success story. And one still being written.

Nicholas Wylde 12 Northumberland Place, Bath, BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462826 Web: nicholaswylde.com POSTCARD from BATH / 71

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curve. Dealing with clients and handmaking to order was new to me. I immediately took to it after experiencing people’s reaction when I’d transformed someone’s old unwanted jewellery into something they loved.

“When I was studying gemmology, I went to Sri Lanka as it is well known for sapphires... and it has become a regular trip to source gems.” “I still do quite a bit of re-modelling work, but we are concentrating on making more one-off pieces to sell nowadays. It can be challenging in terms of time as they tend to sell rather quickly! The inspiration often comes from a particular gemstone. When I was studying gemmology, I went to Sri Lanka as it is well known for sapphires as well as being a fascinating country with the best people. It has become a regular trip to source gems. I’m a big fan of pastel colours and the variety of sapphires I find always makes every trip inspirational – and gives me a perfect excuse to go back. “At the moment we are creating more pieces using multi-coloured sapphires in contemporary designs.”

Michael Parsons

GOLD AND PLATINUM STUDIO The Gold & Platinum Studio began life as ‘The Gold & Silver Studio’ in 1970 in Queen Street. Goldsmith Michael Parsons has owned the business since 1997, and in 2006 he moved to Northumberland Place, renaming the business. Michael trained at art college in jewellery design in the early 1980s. After graduating he started his first business. Michael explains, “I got to know the owners of a local custom motorcycle publication, and they had a space in their premises in which I set up my first workshop. I was making contemporary pieces to sell in galleries, and biker jewellery for the magazine, which was run by Hells Angels at that time. It was an interesting contrast, and they were great to work with – rarely a dull moment, but grim reaper jewellery wasn’t really my thing. “After a few years of travelling and working abroad, I came to visit Bath as my grandfather had moved here. I fell in love with the city after returning to the UK, particularly the surrounding countryside. I’m a keen walker and there is an abundance of beautiful footpaths nearby. “When I first took over the business, it was a steep learning 72 / POSTCARD from BATH

Gold and Platinum Studio 19 Northumberland Place, Bath, BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462300 Web: goldandplatinumstudio.co.uk

A collection of pieces by the Gold & Platinum Studio

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IMAGE: TBM

Jody Cory in her workshop

JODY CORY Jody Cory was born and raised in Bath and established her business here in the very heart of the city in 2001. Having spent her childhood rummaging through her mother’s jewellery box, Jody was always interested in jewellery and in the making process from the age of 14; as Jody always says: “it’s fair to say that goldsmithing has been a lifelong passion”. Jody started taking evening classes in goldsmithing at Bath College when she was just 15 years old and was immediately enthralled, leading her to move to Manchester two years later to start training as a goldsmith professionally. It was here that Jody learnt a lot of what she now knows about the process of jewellery making and gemmology, using all of these skills to create the handmade and expertly crafted jewellery that is now sold at Jody Cory Goldsmiths in Abbey Churchyard. “At Jody Cory Goldsmiths we work with precious and semiprecious gemstones and take all our inspiration from the organic features of life and nature around us. We offer a bespoke service to each of our customers, allowing them to take part in the whole process from beginning to end; designing, making and finalising each repair, remodel or new piece of jewellery. Each item of jewellery is personal and the journey is unique to each individual, this is why customers come back to us and choose us as their family jeweller.” Jody highlights the oval pink sapphire and diamond cluster ring set in white gold as well as the rose-cut and briolette diamond collections, which are very popular. They are each individually handmade and designed entirely by Jody and the team, so you won’t find anything similar anywhere else. Over the years, Jody

“We work with precious and semiprecious gemstones and take all of our inspiration from the organic features of life and nature around us.” has received commissions from a number of different actors and film stars, and has even made a handcrafted 18ct gold earpiece for a very well-known musician. “Despite the stories of famous people coming through the door, what we do here is always about the customer as an individual and this is extremely personal and confidential.” A story that has always stood out for Jody was when a father commissioned an eternal flame pendant for his daughter who was sadly suffering with a terminal illness. The pendant represented how his daughter would forever be with their family and that the memories they had made would always burn bright. Jody Cory Goldsmiths offers a range of services including commissions, remodelling, repairs and valuations and Jody can give individual professional advice on quality, cut and clarity to those looking to purchase that special diamond piece.

Jody Cory Goldsmiths 9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath, BA1 1LY. Tel: 01225 460072 Web: jodycory.co.uk POSTCARD from BATH / 73

IMAGE: Joe Short (www.joeshort.com)

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CONVERSATIONS

A Life in Lingerie Over 20 years ago, Tessa Brand bought The Dressing Room on Quiet Street in Bath and has continued the shop’s renowned tradition of selling the finest in lingerie, beach and nightwear to loyal customers and new friends alike. Here we speak to Tessa about why she still feels so passionate about what she does, after so long...

“

often say to customers – and I’m only half joking – that really good, well-fitting underwear is addictive,” says Tessa. “Once you’ve tried on something that is so comfortable, so supportive and so well made, it’s hardly surprising that you would want to come back for more at some point. “A lot of people might go straight to the price tag and immediately dismiss a garment, but I do try to explain that our lingerie brands (with the exception of one entry-point make) are all made by hand. I’ve seen the processes first hand and it takes roughly three weeks, and the overall development – from design onwards – takes about 18 months. At every stage of production, the fabrics, the threads, the lace etc. are all checked by hand and/or eye. “There are 47 different pieces which go into making one bra, four different thread types and 32 different stitching movements. The underwires are all padded and rarely felt. Honestly – I defy anyone to not love them!”

“ I have customers who’ve been shopping with us for more than 30 years, but most days we’ll still get someone in who’s never been through the door before – and I really love that” Tessa also sells beachwear and nightwear all year round – and that comes in very handy when you’re hunting for a bikini in February, or a snuggly dressing gown for your Antarctic cruise in June. As with the lingerie, The Dressing Room also provides a fitting service for beachwear, with sizes ranging from 10 to 22 and A to G cups. “I think it’s so important that a woman feels comfortable, both physically and mentally, when she is choosing a swimsuit (for example) and we will often be able to direct her purely

because of our knowledge of a brand’s style, fit and length and this can be very reassuring.” Despite her obvious dedication to offering the finest lingerie, beach and nightwear for over two decades, Tessa hasn’t always been in the retail industry. After serving in the Royal Navy upon leaving school, she moved to Aston Martin’s head office under the leadership of Victor Gauntlett, so it’s no wonder that she hunts out the absolute best for her customers and can spot quality from a mile off. The Dressing Room is nothing short of an institution in Bath. The original shop opened in 1985 and Tessa took on the business in 2003 – and it has not only survived, but thrived in the face of a global pandemic – not to mention online shopping. But you can’t get expertly measured for a bra on a website, can you? The personal level of service and enthusiasm for the craftmanship of the items they sell shine through, and it’s brought people back through the doors year after year. “I have customers who’ve been shopping with us for more than 30 years,” Tessa says, “but most days we’ll still get someone in who’s never been through the door before and I really love that.” The continuity is reflected in the team of experts working with Tessa at the shop, too. Marian has been there for 10 years and Brigitte since the early days – 37 years ago – and that’s a real wealth of knowledge and experience under one roof. “I honestly believe that one of the best things is that we are really friendly, really approachable and pretty laid back. We don’t take appointments – customers just drop in as and when they feel like it. “And whether you’ve lived in Bath for 20 years or are here on holiday, if you’re curious about the shop, or maybe unsure about visiting, just pop in and find out for yourself what we’re all about. We would all be more than happy to show you around and answer any questions you might have. Seriously – just come and see!”  The Dressing Room, 7 Quiet Street, Bath, BA1 2JU Telephone: 01225 330563 Website: dressingroombath.com Instagram: @dressing_room_bath POSTCARD from BATH / 75

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LOOKING UP The Circus features three Classical orders (Greek Doric, Roman/Composite and Corinthian) one on each floor

THE DRESSING ROOM, QUIET STREET

THE CORRIDOR

REAL RETAIL REAL PLEASURE

COUNTRY STYLES AT WADSWICK COUNTRY STORE, PULTENEY BRIDGE

FLEA MARKET, WALCOT STREET

THE FINEST SHIRTS AND GENTLEMEN’S ACCESSORIES AT THOMAS FORTIN

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ENJOY / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops

A City of Great Shops Whether you crave a fast fashion fix courtesy of the biggest high street names or fancy an elegantly paced, inspirational browse around an eclectic range of independent traders, Bath offers a unique blend of shopping experiences. Melissa Blease guides us through the streets paved with shops

IMAGES: TBM, SOUTHGATE - VISIT BATH

reat shops are a primary reason why people love to visit Bath, shop in Bath, and choose to work or live in Bath. Interesting, designer, luxurious, cool, or just downright eccentric, our independent shops sell beautiful things with a customer service that is rarely found elsewhere. There’s a compelling argument that these indie emporiums and little shops make an invaluable contribution to the city’s economy and distinctive character. Despite the challenges facing retailers, Bath remains one of Europe’s finest shopping destinations. One of the best aspects of Bath’s commercial centre is that everything is easily walkable – in no more than 30 minutes you could walk from one end to the other. To really enjoy the city, however, you need to meander down little streets, get slightly lost, find beautiful shops and make purchases by happenchance. So let the joy begin... To help you get your bearings, let’s start at the south end of town, at the spacious SouthGate shopping centre, just across the road from Bath Spa railway and coach stations. Home to the impressive new flagship M&S store, SouthGate also boasts familiar high-street names such as Apple, Boots, Urban Outfitters, Oliver Bonas, Tommy Hilfiger, Fat Face, a supersized Zara store and womenswear retailer Nobody’s Child. There’s also My Small World, a brilliant independent toy shop, all at the heart of this glossy West Country shopper’s shrine. A new Uniqlo is also scheduled to open in spring 2027. As you stroll along the swanky pedestrianised thoroughfares that lead north from the SouthGate complex, a multitude of independent retailers, market traders and buskers happily sit alongside branches of Primark, Clarks, COS and more, contributing to the unique retail landscape that shoppers love about Bath. The further up town you go, the many stylish shops and watering holes of the city centre tend to be housed in the kind of historic buildings that make Bath so unique. Around and about the centre of town, there’s the picturesque Abbey Green and Abbey Churchyard with a myriad of cute little passages and byways full of wonderful shops. Meander north to discover The Corridor, a pretty covered arcade, and the super-charming Northumberland Passage, both offering an enchanting selection of independent shops. The wares include must-have accessories, quirky galleries including Magalleria which specialises in all things ‘magazine’, a branch of organic remedy and skincare specialists Neal’s Yard, and a number of long-established, Bath-based goldsmiths and jewellers such as The Silver Shop, the Gold and Platinum Studio and Nicholas Wylde’s enticing emporium. Between them is the Coeur de Lion, officially the smallest pub in Bath. For the gentleman about town, if a quick haircut or wet shave is needed then a Turkish barbershop adds a lively dash of international character.

Cross the main shopping street at the end of Northumberland Passage and The Corridor, and you’ll find yourself bang on track for a bustle around the historic Guildhall Market (read on to find out more) on the High Street. Amble through the market, exit via Grand Parade, and you’ll find yourself taking in the spectacular weir views, adjacent to... Ah, Pulteney Bridge: Bath’s very own, utterly enchanting version of Florence’s Ponte Vecchio. The bridge was designed in 1769 by Robert Adam, opened to the public in 1770 and is today lined with a fascinating collection of unique shops including children’s clothing specialist Up-to-Seven, a gorgeous flower shop (Pulteney Bridge Flowers), Tillius for quirky and unusual homewares and gifts, the fabulous Wadswick Country Store, jeweller Nigel Dando, and you’ll also find the official Bath Rugby shop. On Bridge Street (on the city centre side of the Pulteney Bridge area, on the corner of the High Street) you must take time to discover Mallory, arguably Bath’s (and the West Country’s) most glamorous jewellery and watch emporium, established in 1898 by Edward Palmer Mallory. Today, Mallory – which remains very much a family business – enjoys legendary status as a destination for exclusive timepieces and jewellery, with an exceptional collection of luxury gifts and accessories rarely seen outside London. Prepare to be dazzled by many sparkly things here. Retrace your steps towards the heart of the city, then head north to Milsom Street, home to Jolly’s, one of Britain’s oldest department stores, established in 1831. Currently closed for refurbishment, the store has been taken over by family-owned firm Morleys and is due to reopen in 2027. Milsom Street also boasts a classy array of super-chic, big-name retailers, nicely balanced by a handful of quirky independent outfitters, gift shops and homeware stores such as Mulberry, Heal’s, RM Williams, Portman boutique, Holloways of Ludlow, NRBY, ME+EM, Free People, Piglet in Bed, Cream Cornwall, and OKA. Green Street – officially part of the ‘Milsom Quarter’ – is one of the city’s prettiest thoroughfares, lined with independent traders including Minerva Art Supplies, Loake Shoes, Amathus, a specialist wine and drinks retailer, as well as the trendy Green Street Deli. Meanwhile, New Bond Street (parallel to Green Street) is host to yet more fashionable pit stops including Anthropologie, Seasalt, premium menswear from Rodd & Gunn, L’Occitane, chic skincare specialist Aesop, Jo Malone and the ever-so-fragrant Penhaligon’s – but we still haven’t blown the shopping budget yet. Take a left at the bottom of either Green Street or New Bond Street and you’re perfectly placed for a stroll up Broad Street, home to Rossiters of Bath (the eclectic and quirky department store known as the Liberty’s of the West Country), Tilian Kids, stylish boutiques Boho POSTCARD from BATH / 77

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IMAGES: TBM, © VisitBath

and Aspiga and the quintessentially British luxury menswear retailer Gieves & Hawkes. Situated between Broad Street and Milsom Street is Shires Yard: a quaint cobbled courtyard to explore and home to a variety of great restaurants, including Bandook, Bosco and Côte, alongside the lovely Bramley skincare shop and the classical plaster sculptures of Nicholas H Wood. Next take a turn into the Walcot Street/London Road area, known locally as Bath’s Artisan Quarter. Here you’ll find some of the funkiest indie trading posts in town specialising in everything from vintage clothes to stylish interior stores. Along the way, discover all manner of foodie havens, including the pungent yet beautifully stocked Fine Cheese Company and veggie/vegan Harvest. There’s also homeware store Graham and Green, the fun and funky Yellow Shop, Alfred’s for pre-loved vintage and retro-style clothing, The Bath Hat Co. and Thomas Fortin, where you’ll find exquisite handmade shirts and gentlemen’s accessories. Heading back up, across the top of Milsom Street, the elegant George Street flaunts an eclectic mix of good delis, coffee shops, as well as cool charity shops, and a strip of nightclubs and wine bars. Meanwhile the pretty pedestrianised lane that is Bartlett Street (just off George Street) is home to a number of glam-but-accessible boutiques, a wonderful antique centre and unique lifestyle space: The Loft, housed in a former Victorian department store, where businesses share floorspace. It features the popular Café Lucca, designer womenswear by Blue and the Loft’s own über-cool home and interiors department. If you find yourself walking from The Circus to the Royal Crescent along Brock Street, don’t miss Beau Nash Antiques and Silverware plus a quick diversion into Margaret’s Buildings for some interiors inspo from Divine Savages, Berdoulat and Homefront Interiors. Needless to say, there are so many more great little shops and emporia worth discovering – hunt out The Hidden Store in Pierrepont Place, while a visit to The Dressing Room – Bath’s finest lingerie and swimwear boutique in Quiet Street is a must. BATH MARKETS Farmers’ markets have earned near-legendary status in foodie circles and the original – and, many would argue, still the best of the bunch – is based at Bath’s historic Green Park Station and was formally established there in 1997, making it one of the longest-running farmers’ markets in the UK. Popular with locals and visitors alike, this bustling hubbub of foodbased fabulosity offers a wide selection of local and regional traders. An ever-evolving selection of fresh, seasonal produce proliferates at the market every Saturday morning, supplemented by other markets including the weekday mini-markets and the excellent Bath Contemporary Artists Fair (on the second Sunday of the month). There are also antiques, vegan and other ad hoc markets to enjoy each month. For those of us who like to shop the old-fashioned way, the Guildhall Market is a veritable treasure house of delights. Baubles, beads and bows; pet food, mop buckets and second-hand books; feather boas, handbags and old-fashioned humbugs; deli food, cheese specialists and exotic delights: the oldest trading epicentre in the Heritage City offers the kind of “I didn’t know how much I needed one of those until I found it here” experiences that online, supermarket or even high street shopping can never provide. Meanwhile, Walcot Street’s popular antiques and flea market offers a unique selection of clothes, antiques, books, crockery, collectables and more every Saturday morning. 

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ANTHROPOLOGIE, NEW BOND STREET

MY SMALL WORLD TOYSHOP

SOUTHGATE SHOPPING

THE ENTRANCE TO THE GUILDHALL MARKET

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Visit our gorgeous shop on Pulteney Bridge

6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AX

01225 422333

www.uptoseven.co.uk

POSTCARD from BATH / 79

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops A city of great shops Essential, interesting, designer, luxurious, cool or just downright eccentric... our retailers sell beautiful products with a customer service that is rarely found elsewhere. The Postcard Guide promotes a selection of our favourite shops and stores that make Bath one of the finest shopping destinations in the country.

MAGALLERIA 5 Upper Borough Walls, Bath BA1 1RG Tel: 01225 259602 Web: magalleria.co.uk

MALLORY 1 – 5 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AP Tel: 01225 788800 Web: mallory-jewellers.com Mallory is renowned as Bath’s destination jeweller. Now in its fifth generation, it is one of the country’s oldest family-owned and run jewellers since 1898 in its original Bridge Street premises. Today it boasts one of the largest in-house workshops in the UK, employing goldsmiths trained to the highest calibre, who create the most exquisite bespoke jewellery, as well as fully accredited watchmakers, who are qualified to maintain the finest of timepieces. Inside the showroom you will find a majestic emporium of fine and contemporary jewellery, watches, and luxury gifts and accessories from the world’s most exclusive brands. The imposing frontage may look daunting, however Mallory’s offerings encompass something to suit all pockets, with international names such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Tudor, Fabergé, Chopard, Marco Bicego, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Longines, Georg Jensen, Fope and Mikimoto, as well as an extensive collection of jewellery designed by Mallory.

Magalleria is a unique store selling the largest collection of international, independent and niche print magazines in Europe, and arguably anywhere. Based in central Bath, Magalleria imports magazines, journals and zines from all over the world (many exclusive) to showcase the most interesting and hard to find titles from indie magazine and book publishers. Interest in creative print is very strong, with new entrants and established publishers alike now able to access modern production technologies that ensure today’s magazines are better geared to make reading a more tactile and visually pleasurable experience than ever before. With knowledgeable staff and offering strong depth in art, design, interiors, fashion, lifestyle, food, travel and literature, Magalleria is packed with information, ideas and inspiration.

HIDDEN 2 Pierrepont Place, Bath, BA1 1JX Instagram: @hiddenstorebath Web: hiddenstore.co.uk Founded in 2022 by Natasha, Hidden is a concept store in Bath with a focus on mindful gifting and thoughtful experiences. Housed in a beautiful panelled Georgian room, inside you will find locally made goods, fresh British grown flowers and a seasonal programme of workshops, community groups and events. Many items here are unique to the store and designed in collaboration with local artisans. Natasha is drawn to natural fibres and materials, textures and patterns which form the base of the store. From tactile ceramics, artisan chocolate, paper goods and beautiful fabrics to vintage homeware and gifts - this store is one for the treasure seekers.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY

ALFRED’S

2 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BL Tel: 01225 375292 Web: cambridgesatchel.com

27 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Tel: 01225 481660 instagram: @alfreds.bath

Cambridge Satchel is a British Company that produces satchels and other leather goods, handcrafted to perfection in Great Britain by highly skilled artisans at their workshop in the heart of England where tradition, skill and attention to detail come together. Committed to using carefully sourced leather chosen for its natural durability and longevity, the company combines timeless design with enduring practicality, creating bags and accessories designed to be enjoyed for years to come.

Are you looking for great quality clothes for men at an affordable price? Alfred’s, the pre-loved men’s clothing shop on independent Walcot Street has what you’re looking for. After launching a store in Bradford on Avon, the next stage was a second store in Bath. If you have clothes to sell, the store will pay 50% of the sale price once an item has been sold. There is a wide range of brands and vintage pieces, all at an affordable price. Give the shop a call if you’d like to discuss your own items, or pop in to check out the current range.

BATH ABBEY SHOP

WYLDE JEWELLERS

Bath BA1 1LT Tel: 01225 422462 Web: bathabbey.org

12 Northumberland Place, Bath BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462826 Web: nicholaswylde.com

The Abbey Shop, located on the south side of Bath Abbey, is a treasure trove of souvenirs and Christian gifts. The gift shop tells the story of the Abbey through its product ranges, with a Benedictine monk range, tales of Tudor days and comes right up to date with gifts depicting the West Front in a rainbow of colours. Featuring many local artists, the shop also has a special focus on Christian women and their small businesses. Alongside year-round ranges of gifts, you will find an excellent selection of Christian books and seasonal souvenirs.

Award-winning Wylde Jewellers has been creating extraordinary jewellery since 1987. With boutiques and on-site workshops in Bath and Clifton, Bristol, this independent jeweller brings together imaginative design, exceptional craftsmanship and a warm, personal approach. From bespoke commissions and treasured heirloom transformations to distinctive engagement rings, every piece tells a story. Exclusive to the brand, the patented Wylde Flower Diamond® features 81 facets – 24 more than a standard round brilliant. It boasts a truly captivating sparkle! As Wylde Jewellers looks forward to celebrating 40 years in 2027, its passion for creativity and helping clients mark life’s special moments continues to shine. Visit Wylde Jewellers to explore its collections or enjoy a free, no-obligation appointment with its in-store designers, and discover a piece that feels uniquely yours.

Shown here is a Bath Abbey decoration.

POSTCARD from BATH / 81

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops PORTMAN BOUTIQUES

JODY CORY GOLDSMITHS

28 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DG Web: portmanboutiques.co.uk

9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Tel: 01225 470072 Web: jodycory.co.uk

Founded in 2011 by Nickie Portman in Devon, with Bath’s boutique opening in 2017, Portman Boutiques is the place to find something unique, bold and beautiful to wear and love. You’ll find a carefully curated collection of Nickie’s favourite styles, many designed in house, to see you through every season. From Italian and Parisian French fashion to the Nickie Portman Jewellery collection and accessories, Nickie sources and designs beautiful collections with her stylist’s eye. Nickie and her team select every item based on what they truly love to wear. They buy seasonally, based on the latest trend-led silhouettes and love to add their particular sense of style to every collection. Whether you’re treating yourself to a new accessory to brighten your wardrobe or are treating a friend to some jewellery to brighten theirs, you’ll find the perfect piece.

Jody Cory is an independent jeweller and member of the National Association of Goldsmiths with more than 35 years’ experience. From her shop and workshop in Abbey Churchyard, Jody and her team create beautiful, unique pieces which are the perfect way to mark any special occasion. Friendly advice is available seven days a week from a team of highly skilled goldsmiths working in extremely covetable silver, gold and platinum and using personally selected rare gemstones. Old or broken treasures can be repaired or remodelled to become exciting new pieces to be enjoyed all over again and a free design service is available. Jody also offers restringing, rhodium plating and valuations. Her shop in the Abbey Churchyard offers skilfully crafted handmade jewellery, from inexpensive silver pieces to diamond-set engagement rings, and wedding rings in traditional and contemporary styles to suit all tastes as well as a variety of highly interesting work from other UK designers.

BEAU NASH ANTIQUE SHOP

TILLIUS

28 & 31 Brock Street, Bath BA1 2LN Tel: Interiors 01225 261700. Silver 01225 334234 Web: beaunashbath.com

4–5 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Web: tilliuslifestyle.com

Beau Nash Antiques curates a collection of silver & furniture for Bath homes, from its two shops on Brock Street, close to the Royal Crescent and the city’s Georgian heart. We’re known for medium and small pieces that suit Bath's more modestly proportioned rooms, and for tracking down specific overmantel mirrors when home owners know exactly what they’re after. New arrivals reach both the silver and interiors collections every week, so a repeat visit rarely feels the same. Bath residents can also arrange a home trial, taking a piece home first to see exactly how it looks and feels in the room before deciding, no showroom guesswork required. Ask us how it works.

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Tillius is a family-owned business dedicated to curating eclectic homewares for those who appreciate the unusual in life. This one-of-a-kind shop, situated on the picturesque Pulteney Bridge, offers a unique shopping experience. Whether you’re searching for that perfect gift for a friend or a distinctive item to enhance your home, Tillius is the place where you’ll find something that will make your guests ask, “Where did you get that?!” Beyond homewares, Tillius embraces the unconventional with their intriguing room of curiosities. This special area showcases ethically sourced taxidermy and entomology. The shop also features a carefully selected range of clothing, catering to those who favour distinctive styles, as well as an exclusive jewellery range. Tillius invites you to explore its world of the extraordinary and discover the joys of finding truly unique treasures that reflect your taste for the unusual. Instagram: @tilliuslifestyle

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops ANTHROPOLOGIE 1 – 4 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BE Tel: 01225 335578 Web: anthropologie.com Anthropologie in Bath is a wonderful, one-of-a-kind destination for those seeking rich collections of clothing, accessories, gifts and home décor inspired by fashion, art and entertainment. Products are sourced by buyers and designers who travel the world to uncover unique, special items and often collaborate with upcoming talented artists. The result? An eclectic assortment that includes clothing, accessories, beauty, found objects, gifts and more, with influences ranging from vintage to global. A visit to Anthropologie will reveal exquisitely crafted treasures waiting to delight.

BRAMLEY

JIGSAW

Shires Yard, 41 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DN Tel: 01225 260555 Web: bramleyproducts.co.uk

14 Old Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BP Tel: 01225 426383 Web: jigsaw-online.com

Tucked into the heart of Bath, you’ll find a calm and welcoming space to explore and enjoy a little wellbeing magic, the team are thoughtful and friendly offering a gentle invitation to pause, breathe and reconnect. You can unwind and discover Bramley in its fullest sense. Choose from a range of award winning natural products, beautifully fragranced and made with the finest natural botanicals for a nourishing, invigorating boost, never tested on animals. The Bramley collection of luxury bath, body and home products are made in the British countryside and are inspired by the beauty and therapeutic properties of plants.

Each collection by Jigsaw is designed by expertly talented artisans in their atelier, crafted to tell a story, with each more beautiful than the last. Many lines are produced with a limited run to create exclusive wardrobe icons to love season after season. The customer is at the heart of everything Jigsaw does, from product to service in each of their boutiques. Over 50 years on, they continue to source and collaborate with the best creators in the industry, from suppliers to mills and artists.

HOMEFRONT 10 Margaret’s Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Tel: 01225 571711 Web: homefrontinteriors.co.uk Homefront Interiors is a small independent gift and homewares store which though small in size packs a punch with its wide range and regularly updated stock. The store follows a simple ethos to source ethically made and sustainable products with as many local brands as possible. With a clever mix of work by local artists and makers, displayed alongside handmade fairtrade products from around the world, Homefront aims to support the small producers and minimise environmental impact. The shop is a treasure trove of beautiful things - handmade, fair trade, recycled, or made from sustainable materials. The aim is to be the destination store in Bath for hand-picked special gifts and unique finds for your own home.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops NOBODY’S CHILD

PIGLET IN BED

Unit 2A St Lawrence Street, Bath, BA1 1AN Web: nobodyschild.com

20 Old Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BP Email: bath@pigletinbed.com Web: pigletinbed.com

Nobody’s Child is a brand on a mission to bring beautiful clothes to everyone, everywhere. With a considered approach to design and materials, the B Corp Certified brand is passionate about sustainability and prioritises fabrics from certified organic farming, recycled materials and responsibly managed sources. With a seamless blend of everyday style and highend appeal, Nobody’s Child creates pieces that are as timeless as they are on trend. Offering a mix of minimalist elegance and playful femininity, Nobody’s Child is for women who embrace their own unique style at any age, designed to be worn and loved through all of life’s moments.

Tucked away in a lovingly restored Grade II-listed building, Piglet in Bed’s Bath boutique is a true reflection of the brand’s playful charm and joyfully lived-in aesthetic. Step beyond the iconic green frontage to discover their collection of signature linen and cotton bedding, and thoughtfully curated selection of sleepwear and homewares – all crafted from natural materials. Whether you’re making a few updates or embarking on a full bedroom refresh, Piglet’s interior experts are on hand with free design consultations to help you create a home that feels unmistakably yours. Visit the store to explore beloved collections like the gingham and ‘Pembroke Stripe’, and experience the world of Piglet in person.

NIGEL DANDO 11 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AY Tel: 01225 464013 Web: nigeldando.co.uk Nigel Dando began his career after he gained a national goldsmiths diploma before going on to study gemmology at the Sir John Cass College of Art, Whitechapel. Today he sells an eclectic mix of new, pre-owned and vintage jewellery, and has a particular interest in pieces from the 1920s to 1960s. Together with ranges of contemporary silver jewellery at affordable prices, many of which are one-off pieces, the emphasis is on quality and style. He also buys gold and silver items in any form or condition. Nigel also sells investment precious metals at what he believes to be the most competitive prices in the city. Being one of the few provincial members of the London Diamond Bourse, Nigel offers undeniable expertise and value. He also offers a valuation service.

LONDON CAMERA EXCHANGE 13 Cheap Street, Bath BA1 1NA Tel: 01225 462234 Web: lcegroup.co.uk If photography is your passion then head to an institution where you are guaranteed a personal and helpful service from staff who really know their business. Whether you are after an SD card for your camera, or you’re looking for a brand new device to take pictures of beautiful Bath, London Camera Exchange is the go-to place for all things optical. Specialities include sensor cleaning and image recovery as well as prints from phones, instant prints and passport photos. Space is also devoted to other types of optical equipment such as astronomical telescopes and sport optics and there is an excellent part-exchange service too. Visit LCE for the best deals in Bath.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops UP TO SEVEN

CREAM CORNWALL

6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 422333 Web: uptoseven.co.uk

29 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DG Tel: 01225 592164 Web: creamcornwall.co.uk

Have you found this beautiful shop on Pulteney Bridge? Here the team makes and sells lots of dresses, reversible dungarees, hand-knitted woollies and of course the store’s famous and incredibly cute hats; strawberry, Christmas pudding, Bath Rugby and more. Up to Seven is a major stockist of Frugi and Kite, organic cotton, fairly traded clothes for babies and children and always has lots of appliqued T-shirts, dresses, hats, baby gifts and dinosaurs. If you haven’t been in or if you are looking for a baby gift, a frock for a special occasion or comfy clothes for everyday, then pop in to Up To Seven to find the perfect solution.

Inspired by the Cornish coast, Cream Cornwall makes luxury and exclusive homewares for people who love to be surrounded by beautiful things. Featured on homewares and fabric, their unique designs transform ordinary objects into statement pieces. Cream Cornwall’s overarching motto is ‘beautiful things, beautifully made’ and Rebecca and Allison, the co-founders of Cream Cornwall, are committed to producing quality and unique homewares that inspire. The two women are passionate about keeping production as local as possible, with their candles, diffusers, lampshades and cushions all made locally in Cornwall. Both Rebecca and Allison maintain the importance of having physical stores, and their shops in Falmouth, St Ives and Bath beautifully showcase the wide range of products.

THE DRESSING ROOM 7 Quiet Street, Bath BA1 2JU Tel: 01225 330563 Web: dressingroombath.com Since first opening in Bath in 1985, The Dressing Room has maintained its reputation as the ‘go to’ place for the finest in lingerie, beach and nightwear. While offering the most exquisite lingerie collections from the likes of Marie Jo, Aubade, Lise Charmel, Empreinte and Prima Donna, the shop also has a wide range of basic T-shirt bras and invisible briefs. The beachwear collection is available all year round and features brands such as Melissa Odabash, Maryan Mehlhorn, Roidal, Anita, Gottex and Nuria Ferrer. The Nightwear selection includes silks from Marjolaine and Luna di Seta and cottons from Hanro, Louis Feraud and CottonReal - amongst much, much more. With experienced and professional staff ready to help you, why not go along and have some fun?

THOMAS FORTIN MENSWEAR 11 Walcot Street, Bath, BA1 5BN Web: ThomasFortin.com Founded by Bath locals, Thomas Fortin Menswear celebrates classic style with high-quality accessories crafted in England and Italy. Inspired by early 20th-century elegance, their silk ties, scarves, pocket squares and trouser-braces bring sartorial sophistication back to the modern wardrobe. After 5 years online Thomas Fortin finally took the plunge and opened their first store in the artisan quarter of Walcot Street. Now visitors can experience first hand their luxurious pieces, crafted by skilled studios, often family run and rooted in tradition passed down through generations. This destination shop is perfect for those who appreciate timeless fashion and dressing up for the occasion. Discover authentic, beautifully-crafted menswear at Thomas Fortin and indulge your inner dapper! Visit the shop in person at 11 Walcot Street, Bath, BA1 5BN or peruse the range online at ThomasFortin.com

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops THE RIVER MOUSE

WADSWICK

2 Pierrepont Place, Bath BA1 1JX Instagram: @therivermousebath Web: therivermouse.com

1 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 810307 Web: wadswick.co.uk

The River Mouse is a tiny, tuckedaway and enchanting new children’s lifestyle store which opened just before Christmas 2025. This storybook-like space is the brainchild of local mother of two Lucy Wright, a lifelong lover of all things small, magical and beautifully made. The shop is a joyful celebration of UK-designed childrenswear, toys and gifts, alongside a shoe-fitting service (up to size 10). But look up to find the magic! Above the shop lives The River Mouse himself, who can be found aboard his miniature narrowboat, gently chugging along a floating river – a whimsical invitation for little (and big) people to step inside, look up and slow down.

Wadswick has in its collection of men’s and women’s fashion and accessories some of the world’s best-loved country brands including Holland Cooper, Barbour, Schöffel, Fairfax & Favor, R.M. Williams, Ariat, Joules and Yeti. Specialising in country lifestyle, Wadswick’s award-winning boutique in Bath builds on over thirty years of country heritage from their family-run flagship store near Corsham, the popular market town seven miles east of the city. There you will find a large clothing collection, a huge range for equestrians and pet lovers, a shooting simulator, a smart contemporary restaurant, and even two brand new padel courts. In Bath, their chic range of clothing is perfect for those looking for that smart-casual feel that will take you around the city and into the countryside in style.

THE SILVER SHOP 25 Union Passage, Bath BA1 1RD Tel: 01225 464781 Web: thesilvershopofbath.co.uk A much loved part of Bath since 1952, The Silver Shop is one of the city’s best-loved independent shops – a treasure trove of beautiful jewellery, gifts and affordable little luxuries. Tucked away in the heart of the city, just a minute’s walk from the Abbey and Roman Baths, this much-loved, family-run shop has been a favourite with locals and visitors for generations. Discover an extensive collection of Sterling Silver jewellery, with prices ranging from just £5 to £500, including pieces handmade by local jewellers. There’s much more than jewellery to explore, from gorgeous candles, bags and accessories to thoughtful gifts for every occasion. Known for its friendly, knowledgeable service, The Silver Shop even has its own small workshop offering charm soldering, alterations and repairs. Whether you’re searching for something special or simply fancy a browse, it’s well worth stepping inside. Open Monday – Saturday, 9.30am – 5.30pm.

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ICARUS SILVER JEWELLERY 3 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 463693 WhatsApp: 07376 416833 Web: icarusjewellery.com Icarus Jewellery is an independent silver jewellery shop located on Pulteney Bridge in the heart of Bath, and offers a great selection of handmade unique designs from their store and online shop. Owner Dilek Köroğlu designs and makes some of the handmade silver jewellery pieces in the shop and is always happy to show you more of any particular style you desire. You are also very welcome to discuss custom orders for bespoke designs. The shop is something a little bit different and a place to be surrounded by beautiful things.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops GOLD & PLATINUM STUDIO 19 Northumberland Place, Bath BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462300 Web: goldandplatinumstudio.co.uk Goldsmith and gemmologist Michael Parsons and his team run a delightful independent studio on Northumberland Place. The highly skilled team specialise in hand making bespoke engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as offering a wide range of individual pieces to buy. The studio welcomes all types of commissions, including remodelling. The studio has been in Bath for over 50 years and has a reputation for quality service and craftsmanship. A visit is a must for jewellery lovers and anyone looking for a special gift or thinking of having a piece of jewellery made.

ME+EM 46 Milsom Street, Bath, BA1 1DN Tel: 01225 379890 Web: meandem.com Don’t believe that modern women should have to choose between quality and cost; between contemporary trends and clothes they can actually function and look great in. ME+EM are obsessed with quality and offer the highest standard at an accessible price , so you no longer have to choose between luxury and cost. ME+EM was the very first luxury brand in the UK to disrupt the market, paving the way for a new vision of womenswear. So, that’s ME+EM: intelligent style for intelligent women, now and forever.

BATH GUILDHALL MARKET 33 High Street, Bath BA2 4AW Tel: 01225 460808 Web: bathguildhallmarket.co.uk Bath Guildhall Market is the oldest shopping venue in the city and today a colourful group of 20 or so stallholders trade in this jewel of a building in the heart of the city, just 80 yards from Bath Abbey and opposite the famous Pulteney Bridge. Offering virtually everything you need under one roof, plus service with a smile and the kind of old-fashioned personal attention you find when shopping at a family-run business. You’ll find haberdashery, hardware, partywear, pet supplies, foodie treats and everything in between.

JIMMY FAIRLY 4 Burton Street, Bath BA1 1BN Web: jimmyfairly.co.uk Founded in 2010 by Antonin Chartier, a 23 year old psychology student with a passion for entrepreneurship, the concept was simple: high-quality glasses, fair prices, a positive social and sustainable impact. Over a decade later, little has changed. Jimmy Fairly now has more than 126 stores across France, The UK, Germany, Belgium, Italy & Spain as well as new store in New York. Moreover, Jimmy Fairly is successfully bringing back great style and a smile to the eyewear world. Every two months, a new drop lands. Agile in their creative process, Jimmy Fairly constantly offers the latest trends to their customers in limited edition styles, always designed in their Parisian studio. Jimmy Fairly now has stores located in both Bristol and Bath.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops THE BATH HAT COMPANY

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT

9 – 11 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Tel: 01225 339009 Web: thebathhatcompany.com

3 Argyle St, Bathwick, Bath BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 984263 Web: fombrand.com

…Hats That Turn Heads… …For Every Occasion… As a reputable provider of exceptional hats for the past three decades, The Bath Hat Company has amassed an extensive collection suitable for every occasion. The bespoke hats are crafted with meticulous care and attention to detail by a team of skilled artisans, and are designed to make you stand out from the crowd. For women, choices include elegant accessories for a formal affair, functional hats for a sunny outdoor excursion, or cosy headpieces for the colder months. For men there is a diverse array of top-notch caps, from the timeless appeal of fedoras to panamas and trilbies. The shop also provides professional hat-stretching services to guarantee a perfect and comfortable fit. Occasion Hats | Mother of the Bride Hats | Men’s Hats | Sun Hats

Freedom of Movement was founded in 2013 by brothers who had a passion for design and entrepreneurship, as well as a dream to create a proudly South Africanborn lifestyle brand with the principles of quality, longevity, value and worth. Explore their range of highend leather footwear, bags and accessories, with a growing and expanding range, all core products have names and identities, with customers invited to personally connect with their chosen companions that share in their own lifestyle and adventures.

HOLLOWAYS OF LUDLOW

OLIVER BONAS

37 Milsom Street, Bath, BA1 1DN Tel: 01225 258874 Web: hollowaysofludlow.com

Unit 5A St Lawrence Street, Bath, BA1 1AN Tel: 01225 469227 Web: oliverbonas.com

Holloways of Ludlow brings together exceptional designer lighting, furniture and homeware from over 400 international designers and leading brands. Spanning iconic 20th-century designs to future classics, the collection balances beauty, functionality and enduring appeal. At the heart of the business is a belief that good design should look beautiful, work effortlessly and last a lifetime. Our flagship showroom in Bath offers the opportunity to explore the collection firsthand, with expert guidance for projects of every scale and budget. Visit our showrooms in Bermondsey, Wimbledon, and Winchester, or browse and shop the collection online at hollowaysofludlow.com.

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Oliver Bonas is an independent British lifestyle brand, with a distinctive design take on fashion and homeware. selling online internationally and from 90+ stores across the UK and the Republic of Ireland including their store here in Bath. Always excited by fresh thinking and the alchemy of great design and its power to uplift and inspire. Since the first store opened in 1993, their mission has remained constant throughout: to do their bit to make living a joyful experience and give cause for optimism. Visit the Bath store where you will find a fabulous range of clothing, homeware, jewellery, beauty, gifts and accessories and much more.

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THE GUIDE / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops GRAHAM & GREEN

DIVINE SAVAGES

92 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BG Tel: 01225 418300 Web: grahamandgreen.co.uk

5 Margaret’s Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Tel: 01225 532340 Web: divinesavages.com

Inspired by a love of travel and design, family business Graham & Green opened its first home interiors store in the heart of Notting Hill in 1974 and its style and influence has been growing ever since. Graham & Green’s expertise in furniture design coupled with strong family values translates into the unique, quality furniture, home decor and accessories you see online and in-store at Graham & Green today. An emporium of treasures for your home, Graham and Green can be found in Bath’s Walcot Street in a renovated 19th-century former bake house housing the store as well as the company’s headquarters.

Good taste. Badly behaved. Step inside the wonderfully wild world of Divine Savages, an award-winning British interiors brand renowned for its bold wallpapers, luxurious fabrics and playful home accessories. Founded by Jamie Watkins and Tom Kennedy, Divine Savages brings a mischievous twist to traditional British design, with striking prints, rich colours and unexpected details. From collaborations with the Natural History Museum to the legendary Pikes Ibiza, their designs are anything but ordinary. Discover their beautiful Bath showroom, tucked away on Margaret’s Buildings, between the Royal Crescent and The Circus. A little slice of interiors heaven for those who dare to be different.

WITH NOTHING UNDERNEATH 11 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BE Web: withnothingunderneath.com WNU was founded in 2017 to create a collection of high quality, everyday essentials for women, starting with the perfect shirt. Inspired by men’s tailoring and British heritage, WNU’s shirts and other wardrobe staples are all about simplicity and timeless style. No piece or collection is about trends or a fleeting style moment but instead are made to stand the test of time and live a life in. Visit the new store to experience the quality and craftsmanship the brand is known for.

GIEVES & HAWKES 2 Broad Street, Bath BA1 5LJ Tel: 01225 463839 Web: gievesandhawkes.com Discover the heritage of Gieves & Hawkes, one of Savile Row’s most distinguished tailoring houses, founded in 1771. Located in the heart of Bath, our store brings together British craftsmanship, timeless style and exceptional service. Explore our collections of ready-to-wear, or discover made-to-measure tailoring, created around your individual style and fit. For those seeking something truly personal, our celebrated bespoke service offers the opportunity to commission garments crafted at our No.1 Savile Row flagship. Whether dressing for a special occasion or refining your wardrobe, our team looks forward to welcoming you in store.

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CITY PLEASURES / AFTERNOON TEA

Afternoon Tea To experience the best of the afternoon tea tradition, why not indulge yourself with a trip to one of Bath’s finest hotels or visit one of the city’s quaint tearooms?

THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA HOTEL Beau Street, Bath BA1 1QY Tel: 01225 358888 Web: thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk; strictlyjaneausten.com A quintessentially British tradition “Only at The Gainsborough” Immerse yourself in the history and heritage of Georgian Bath with a luxurious afternoon tea at the Gainsborough. Located in the centre of Bath’s historical district, The Gainsborough with its impressive architecture and imposing Georgian façade is the perfect setting for an indulgent and unforgettable afternoon tea. The menu offers a wide selection of speciality blended teas from around the world including their own signature Gainsborough blend, delicate finger sandwiches, hot savoury treats, perfectly crafted miniature pastries and warm scones served with clotted cream and homemade jams and the option of a glass of fine Champagne.

MONTAGU’S MEWS AT THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Tel: 01225 823333 Web: royalcrescent.co.uk

BAILBROOK HOUSE HOTEL Eveleigh Avenue, London Road West, Bath BA1 7JD Tel: 01225 855100 Web: handpickedhotels.co.uk/bailbrookhouse Afternoon tea is a speciality of Bailbrook House where you can enjoy it in the elegant surroundings of the Mansion House lounges, which offer historic, feature-rich surroundings that fit with this great British tradition. Relish in the finest loose teas (strained to your personal taste), delicious sandwiches, handmade cakes, pastries and scones and the traditional Bath Bun – a large fruit bun, sprinkled with crushed sugar. For an extra touch of indulgence, just add a glass of Champagne. Saturdays and Sundays, from £32.50 per adult, £16 per child.

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Afternoon Tea at The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa is a moment of memorable indulgence, in the elegant surroundings of Montagu’s Mews: in the restaurant or bar, and on fine days on the terrace or in the glorious gardens. Delicate finger sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream and jam, dainty patisseries, and the region’s own Bath Bun are all carefully prepared and beautifully presented. Choose from a wide selection of Hoogly Teas for a traditional treat or why not go all out with a chilled flute – or flight – of Taittinger Champagne. Afternoon tea is served daily from 12.30pm – 4pm (3.30pm Spring/Summer) and priced from £49 per adult and £24.50 per child. Vegetarian and vegan menus are also available, please request at time of booking.

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CITY PLEASURES / AFTERNOON TEA

A Tea Time Routine

he idea of afternoon tea was introduced to England by Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, in 1840. The Duchess would feel hungry around four o’clock, but the evening meal was served at eight, leaving a long gap between lunch and dinner. She asked for a tray of tea, bread and butter (a new innovation by the Earl of Sandwich), and cake to be served in the late afternoon. This became a habit, and she began inviting friends. The pause for tea evolved into a fashionable social event. Soon, the upper classes and society women would change into long gowns, gloves, and hats for afternoon tea, usually served between four and five o’clock in the drawing room or garden on a warm day. Jane Austen and her characters always found that one “should be very glad of a little tea” (Mansfield Park, 1814). Tea meant rest and pleasure, and its absence would be a severe disappointment. It was a ritual that brought families together, could make or break marriage contracts, and made dull events more exciting!

More Jane Austen Inspiration... The Jane Austen Centre’s Regency Tea Room, 40 Gay Street, Bath BA1 2NT; janeausten.co.uk Choose from a decadent ‘Tea with Mr Darcy’ to lighter options such as ‘Lady Catherine’s Proper Cream Tea’ and ‘Mrs Bennet’s Cake of the Day.’ Sally Lunn’s House, 4 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX; sallylunns.co.uk Sally Lunn’s afternoon teas based on the world-famous Sally Lunn bun are served until 6pm every day. The Bath Distillery Gin Bar, 2/3 Queen Street, Bath BA1 1HE; thebathgincompany.co.uk This cosy gin bar has concocted the character of Virginia ‘Gin’ Austen. The bar is overseen by a portrait of a winking Austen, and your gin can be served in teapots, to ramp up the Regency vibes.

THE PUMP ROOM RESTAURANT Searcys at the Pump Room, Stall Street, Bath BA1 1LZ Tel: 01225 444477 Web: thepumproombath.co.uk Step into Regency elegance at the Pump Room Restaurant with afternoon teas inspired by the life and era of Jane Austen. Served in the Georgian salon where Austen once observed Bath society, the experience blends heritage, storytelling and seasonal British produce. Enjoy loose-leaf teas crafted with Gillards of Bath, including the bespoke “Jane Austen Blend” and the floral English Rose Tea, or fair-trade coffee with complimentary refills. Literary-inspired cocktails include the “Darcy”, with Earl Grey tea, spiced rum and citrus, and the “Elizabeth”, combining elderflower liqueur with English sparkling wine. Savouries include cucumber and cream cheese, poached salmon with caper butter, Somerset cider-roasted gammon with spiced chutney, smoked mackerel rillette and St Ewes egg salad. Scones come with West Country clotted cream and jam, followed by pastries such as raspberry and vanilla Battenberg, chocolate croustillant and seasonal fruit tarts. The Pride & Prejudice Experience (£70) adds aperitifs and starters before an enhanced afternoon tea. Sittings run from 12–1.30pm, 2–3.30pm or 4–5.30pm, with live music. “Jane Austen Afternoon Tea” from £44.50; children’s teas £14.95 with a full adult tea.

LUCKNAM PARK HOTEL Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Indulge in a traditional English afternoon tea at this 18th-century mansion set in 500 acres of magnificent gardens and parkland. Tea at Lucknam Park is a firm favourite, whether it’s for a special occasion or a decadent treat after shopping in Bath, which is only six miles away. You will be able to escape the city and enjoy a full English afternoon tea from £50 per person, (£70 with a glass of J. Pérard Champagne) served in the library or drawing room overlooking the gardens, or on the terrace on a warm day. Afternoon tea is available Monday to Sunday 1.30pm – 3.30pm. Reservations are required. POSTCARD from BATH / 91

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POSTCARDS

The Pump Room Refined but welcoming; genteel but with a polished background buzz of conviviality – no visit to Bath would be complete without experiencing the Pump Room. Melissa Blease explores this exclusive comfort stop

f a tour of the Roman Baths site is integral to your discovery of Bath, a refreshment break at the Pump Room (under the same roof) is equally unforgettable. It’s possible, however, to indulge your senses in this elegant, neo-classical salon as a stand-alone, relaxing refuelling zone – as indeed, many Bath locals do, maintaining a Heritage City tradition that began more than two centuries ago. This bastion of good taste has offered a civilised backdrop to all manner of social occasions since 1799. Opening early for breakfast, morning coffee and brunch before afternoon tea (and evening dinner during the summer months), the atmosphere is defined by the exquisitely dignified surroundings with sparkling chandeliers, Corinthian columns and tables adorned with crisp linen and gleaming tableware. Once at your table, polite, efficient staff cater to your every whim, while the Pump Room trio or a pianist provide elegant musical accompaniment. It’s a room with a view, too – either across the Roman Baths from the windows towards the rear of the salon, or over Abbey Square from tables towards the front of the building.

THE PUMP ROOM FOUNTAIN

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HISTORY The thirst for ‘partaking of’ the thermal waters of Bath – once believed to offer healing properties – became so popular during the late 17th century that a pump was installed to allow public access to water sourced directly from the spring. In the early 18th century, British physician and philanthropist William Oliver persuaded the Bath Corporation to erect buildings where the drinkers could be sheltered – a popular initiative that included the main Pump Room and the Hetling Pump Room, today the location of the Thermae Bath Spa Visitor Shop. As the popularity of Bath as a spa destination grew, the Pump Room could no longer accommodate the scores of people keen to drink the water, so multiple extensions and improvements were made to the building. Along with the Lower Assembly Rooms and Sydney Gardens and hotel, the Pump Room eventually completed the triangle of locations that drew Georgian ‘high society’. The original Pump Room building was designed by John Harvey to specifications requested by Bath’s Master of Ceremonies Beau Nash in 1706, before the discovery of the Roman remains. The foundations of the Roman temple precinct were discovered during preparatory excavations for designs by Thomas Baldwin, who took the project over from John Harvey, but whose designs were never completed. When Baldwin was declared bankrupt in 1793, his long-time rival (and official city architect) John Palmer continued the scheme to his own plans. The Pump Room was opened to the public by the Duchess of York in 1795 and finished in 1799. Live music has been performed here since the opening of the original building in 1706, a tradition upheld by the highly acclaimed Pump Room Trio (the longest established resident ensemble in Europe) today, while the original Pump Room Orchestra is believed to be the first resident band in the country to play in an assembly room. When Baroque composer Handel visited Bath in 1749, he collaborated with Bath-born composer and organist Thomas Chilcot in support of the Pump Room band. English tenor and musician Thomas Linley and astronomer/ composer William Herschel both played in the band during the 1760s, and Gustav Holst was a guest conductor during the early 20th century. The Pump Room became a restaurant during the Second World War, and escaped destruction during the Baedeker Air Raids on Bath in 1942. Historical figures who have visited to take the waters include Jane Austen (who used the backdrop as a setting for key scenes in

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AFTERNOON TEA IS SERVED

both Northanger Abbey and Persuasion), Charles Dickens (whose iconic character Mr Pickwick in his first novel The Pickwick Papers, published in 1836, was urged to take the waters by his faithful servant Sam Weller), American showman Buffalo Bill and the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie, who spent his exile in Bath between 1936–41. YOUR VISIT

 The Pump Room, Abbey Church Yard, Bath BA1 1LZ  Open daily. Morning Bakery and Brunch, Afternoon Tea and Summer Evening Dining (see website for times)  Book a table online or tel: 01225 444477 Walk-in tables are available daily  Web: thepumproombath.co.uk

Morning Bakery, Pump Room Brunch (and Sparkling Bucks Fizz Brunch) are served in the Pump Room from 10–11.30am, but it’s Afternoon Tea at the Pump Room (always accompanied by live music courtesy of a resident pianist or the famous Pump Room Trio) that’s not to be missed – there are three sittings: 12–1.30pm, 2–3.30pm or 4–5.30pm. It’s possible, of course, to simply order a pot of tea and a freshly baked scone and leave refreshed, fulfilled and relaxed. But if you choose to elevate your afternoon indulgence to the next level, you’ve most definitely come to the right place; expect to encounter a thoughtful collection of freshly prepared sweet and savoury treats together on one (or possibly several) multi-tiered presentation stands, to be served on exquisite fine bone china. A selection of loose leaf teas or hand-roasted coffee comes as standard and can be refilled as many times as you wish. Searcys – the catering company hard at work behind the scenes here – is also renowned for its impressive range of Champagnes It’s possible, too, to take a free sample of the mineral-rich spa water around which the city first developed, freshly drawn by a ‘pumper’ from an ornate fountain at the epicentre of the dining room – but be warned: it’s an acquired taste.  POSTCARD from BATH / 93

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CITY HISTORY

Jane Austen’s Life in Bath Jane Austen is one of Bath’s most famous former residents, but in her real life, as in her novels, she was aware of the contrast between the splendid and the seedy in the city, says associate professor in 18th and 19th-century literature, Dr Felicity James

dreary, rainy November afternoon in 1797. A carriage bumps over the wet streets, dodging rumbling carts and drays. The young women inside look at one another with eager excitement. Everything seems to promise pleasure, from the bawling of the newsmen, muffin-men and milkmen, to the chinking of pattens as ladies dash from shop to shop, clutching their bonnets against the rain. The carriage pulls up at No. 1 Paragon Buildings. Jane Austen, 21 years old, had arrived in Bath. Jane, Cassandra and their mother stayed with their wealthy relatives, the Leigh-Perrots, in Paragon Buildings, where their gouty uncle came every winter to take the waters. The city had special significance for the Austen family – Jane’s mother and father had met there and had married there. It came to have a role in Jane’s creative life, since both her first and last full-length novels were inspired by the city: Northanger Abbey, begun in 1797, and Persuasion in 1815. They feature very different heroines, but they both show Austen’s fascination with the social panorama Bath provided. In Northanger Abbey the heroine Catherine expresses ‘eager delight’ on arriving in Bath – ‘her eyes were here, there, every where, as they approached its fine and striking environs’ – and she breathlessly visits all the tourist attractions. This reflects Austen’s own excitement in her early encounters with the city. Her letters to Cassandra about her adventures in Bath in 1799 are written in lively, sociable, holiday spirits, reporting to her sister on the latest fashions – would Cassandra prefer flowers or fruit as a decoration for her new hat? Jane used to attend evening entertainments, including a grand gala with music, illuminations and fireworks in Sydney Gardens. The concert promised to be tolerable – after all, she writes, tongue-in-cheek, ‘the Gardens are large enough for me to get pretty well beyond the reach of its sound’ – and the fireworks turned out to be ‘really beautiful’. Moreover, the circulating libraries of Bath could feed the Austen sisters’ fondness for up-to-date books, shared by the heroine of Northanger Abbey. Catherine’s trips to the Pump Room, the Upper and Lower Rooms, and the baths are underscored by her addiction to the wild Gothic world of 1790s novels. ‘Yes, novels,’ exclaims Austen, ‘…in which the greatest powers of the mind are displayed’. Austen had clearly also learned to read the dangerous side of the city. As historian Peter Borsay points out, the Bath which

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appears in Northanger Abbey has two sides: ‘a place of potential and opportunity which nurtured good and evil alike’. In the 1987 BBC production grotesque socialites lurk in the Pump Room, bewigged and bonneted, their wrinkles slathered over with rouge, while wicked seducers hover on the sidelines. Andrew Davies’ delicate adaptation of Northanger Abbey for ITV in 2007 shows a more romantic side of Bath, albeit with a dangerous undertow of flirtation. Candlelit, soft and rosy, it contrasts vividly with the dark, sexy horror of Catherine’s dreamlife, inspired by Ann Radcliffe’s romances. The innocent Felicity Jones floats along in pale muslin as Catherine. She looks, as Davies admits, ‘slightly too pretty for Catherine’, but amply brings out the eager happiness of this first encounter with Bath. Northanger Abbey is a tale of teenage excitement, but Austen’s return to Bath as a setting for her later novel, Persuasion, is subtler, deeper and sadder. At 27, Anne Elliot has lost her bloom. Faded, ‘haggard’, she seems to have said goodbye to her hopes of marriage when she turned down her first suitor, Wentworth, faced with the disapproval of her snobbish family. Now, eight years on, Wentworth is back, prosperous, happy and successful. But he has not forgiven Anne, who had ‘used him ill’ – she has to watch silently as he flirts with the pretty young Musgrove girls. This story of lost love and regret has long been linked to Austen herself – with memories of her own earlier attachments thought to have fed into Persuasion. Anne’s dislike of Bath – uprooted from the country home she loves, forced by family circumstance into ‘something very opposite from her inclination’ – has also been taken to be Austen’s own view. Although she enjoyed her visits to the city, moving there permanently, on her father’s retirement from the vicarage at Steventon, seems not to have appealed. Her sister-inlaw Mary Lloyd Austen reported that Jane was ‘greatly distressed’, and her great-nephew claims, ‘The shock of the intelligence was so great that she fainted away’. She seems to have ceased writing during those years in Bath. Save one abortive effort, The Watsons, her creativity seems to have been put on hold from 1801 until 1809, when she moved with her mother and sister to a house on her brother’s estate in Chawton, Hampshire. Jane’s six completed novels were all revised or written at Chawton – at her death, she was just coming into her prime as a writer. Her masterpiece Emma took just over a year to write, from

A portrait of Jane Austen, University of Texas Libraries, The University of Texas at Austin, wikicommons.com

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IMAGE: Thomas Rowlandson, A Master of Ceremonies Introducing a Partner, bathintime.co.uk, Bath Central Library

1814 to 1815; Persuasion was written at a similar pace and finished in August 1816; she had begun another novel, Sanditon, when she died. These last works, lively and experimental, tackle social transition and change much more openly than Austen’s previous novels. While Persuasion’s Captain Wentworth has made his fortune in the Napoleonic Wars, the titled Elliots have sunk into debt and have to leave their ancestral home to go and live in Bath. Bath itself has also changed. When Austen visited in 1799, she was happy to stay in Queen Square. But the Musgrove sisters in Persuasion won’t settle for this. ‘We must be in a good situation,’ they tell their father, ‘none of your Queen-squares for us!’ Other, more fashionable visitors had deserted the city altogether in favour of new spa towns. Even in the 1790s, despite the lively social gatherings depicted in Northanger Abbey, the city was already sinking into decline as a fashionable destination. By 1801, after the Austens’ move, Jane was reporting on the poor showing at the dances: ‘Think of four couples,’ she tells Cassandra, ‘surrounded by about a hundred people, dancing in the upper rooms at Bath!’ This view of Bath is seconded by Anne Elliot, who shies away from what she terms the ‘littlenesses’ of the town, its petty snobberies and vanities. Her father delights in courting titled acquaintances, and expressing his disdain for his fellow spa-goers. He is inordinately proud of his rented house in Camden Place – showy and expensive, but built on unstable ground; a landslip during construction meant that the upper crescent was never completed. It’s the perfect symbol for his superficial vanity. Anne,

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on the other hand, seeks out the less fortunate, spending her time in the cramped rooms of her invalid friend, and persisting in her ‘disinclination for Bath’. But it is Bath that finally allows Anne her happy ending. Here she meets Captain Wentworth once again. In an apartment at the White Hart, he pens his declaration of love, and in the ‘comparatively quiet and retired gravel-walk’, between Queen Square and the Royal Crescent, they finally share their feelings, looking only at each other, ‘seeing neither sauntering politicians, bustling house-keepers, flirting girls, nor nursery-maids and children’. Perhaps this is a clue to Austen’s own view of the city. While she takes a sceptical look at its sauntering, flirting bustle, she finds a place for her romance within it. Bath prompted her earliest novel, and inspired her as a mature writer – it produced a sparkling comedy and a story of love and loss. From irrepressible flirts and Gothic villains, to the heartfelt love of Anne and Wentworth, the city was a lifelong source of inspiration for Jane Austen. 



Visit the Jane Austen Centre in Bath for a snapshot of life during Regency times and explore how living in the city affected Jane Austen and her writing. Jane Austen Centre, 40 Gay Street, Bath

 

Tel: 01225 443000 Web: janeausten.co.uk

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LA TERRA R E STAU R A N T Mediterranean

Open for Lunch & Dinner Tuesday to Saturday La Terra Restaurant 2 john street Bath BA1 2JL 01225 482070 • booking@laterra.co.uk • www.laterra.co.uk

Clayton’s Kitchen is a perennial favourite for local foodies and discerning visitors to Bath. Robert Clayton, a Michelin-starred chef and the restaurant’s Chef Patron since its inception in 2012, creates uncomplicated dishes that explore and showcase the freshest and very best ingredients. Inspired by Mediterranean and modern French cuisine, Robert ensures that every dish is prepared, cooked and presented to perfection. Special Lunch offer Weds to Friday £32 2 courses, £38 3 courses To view up-to-date menus, the wine list and to book visit: claytonskitchen.com

15A George Street, Bath BA1 2EN 01225 724386 rob@claytonskitchen.com

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GIFTS from BATH

Looking for something special to take home? Peruse our pick of gorgeous gifts and souvenirs

ROMAN COIN JEWELLERY Jody Cory Goldsmiths 9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Web: jodycory.co.uk

BATH BLUE CHEESE Available from: The Fine Cheese Co., 29 & 31 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Web: finecheese.co.uk Bath Blue is an artisan blue cheese, made by hand at Park Farm in Kelston, just outside Bath. It has been described as one of the finest examples of English blue cheesemaking today. Rich, creamy, and beautifully crafted, Bath Blue is a modern classic in the English blue tradition. Its Stilton-like character makes it instantly familiar, yet its gentler, wellrounded flavour profile ensures broad appeal, even to those who usually shy away from stronger blues. £10.68 (250g)

UP TO SEVEN 6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Web: uptoseven.co.uk Designed by Up to Seven and handmade in Bath, this children’s knitted blue, black and white striped hat makes the perfect gift for any Bath Rugby fan! These adorable, roll-edged hats are all knitted in anti-tickle wool, and can be machine washed at 30 degrees.

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Local goldsmith Jody Cory has handmade a range of jewellery to celebrate her hometown. Made at her Abbey Churchyard store, the Memories of Bath range includes angels climbing the abbey, UK pendants with a small diamond putting Bath on the map, fob pendants and bracelets featuring a map of Bath, and Bath charms. Shown here is the Roman coin range. Jody’s grandfather was an engineer in the city and while working at the Pump Room, he found a few Roman coins. As Jody recalls: “I remember as a child how special they were, and I was interested in the history of our amazing city. I guess I take after him in a small way by continuing to work in metal. Only this time, I use precious metals and work on a smaller scale.” Although the pieces are replicas rather than original Roman coins, the WRL stamp on each piece shows it is a replica from an original coin.

BATH AQUA GLASS 15 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1NA Web: bathaquaglass.com Inspired by Bath’s famous spa waters and ancient Roman glassmaking traditions, Bath Aqua Glass is celebrated for its distinctive aqua-coloured glass, created using copper and iron oxides to achieve its beautiful watery hue. Its charming shop in Abbey Churchyard, opposite the Roman Baths, offers a delightful collection of handcrafted glassware, from decorative baubles and elegant paperweights to ornaments and keepsakes. Each piece makes a lovely gift or lasting memento of a visit to the city.

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BATH RUGBY SHOP 1 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BA Web: bathrugbyshop.com An absolute must for any visitor to Bath – take home something blue, black and white, the famous colours of Bath Rugby. The official club shop offers a fantastic range of replica shirts, clothing, accessories and gifts for supporters of all ages, including personalised shirts. For something a little more cuddly, meet the Bath Rugby T-shirt Bear, a charming furry supporter dressed in his own blue club T-shirt. He may not be ready for the front row, but he’s certainly first choice for a post-match hug! Shown here: Bath Rugby T-shirt Bear, £15.

BATH GIN 2–3 Queen Street, Bath BA1 1HE Web: thebathgincompany.co.uk The modern, exotically smooth and refreshing Bath Gin is distilled and bottled using the finest botanicals from across the world. Made in Bath by The Bath Distillery. Shown here: Classic 70cl, 40% ABV. £39.50 and Orange Sloe 70cl, 27% ABV. £38.50

SILVER SHOP OF BATH 25 Union Passage, Bath BA1 1RD Web: silvershopofbath.co.uk As well as a huge range of delightful silver jewellery and gift ideas, we found this popular ‘I’d rather be in Bath’ Bone china mug. Priced at £12.95 it’s a quick and easy-tocarry keepsake that will not only remind you of your time in Bath, but gently call you back to visit again.

WADSWICK COUNTRY STORE 1 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Web: wadswick.co.uk Quintessentially British, Barbour wax jackets are a timeless style. Whether you’re exploring the countryside or navigating Bath’s elegant streets, Barbour’s timeless wax jackets offer practicality, versatility and effortless British style. Discover the collection at Wadswick Country Store on Pulteney Bridge

THOMAS FORTIN MENSWEAR 11 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Web: thomasfortin.com Bring a flourish to the everyday with this elegant teal silk scarf. Handmade in England using 100% silk and printed by Adamley in Macclesfield and features one hundred hand-knotted tassels. Wear loosely beneath an open-neck shirt or draped over a simple jumper to transform an understated outfit into something effortlessly distinguished. It’s the perfect finishing touch. Priced at £168. Visit the store on Walcot Street for this and many more lovely gift ideas.

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CITY HISTORY

If Looks Could Kill Historian Catherine Pitt explores the hair-raising antics of Georgian Bath

f we could turn the clock as far back as 300 years ago, we’d find our Georgian forebears were just as preoccupied with their appearance and youth as we are in the 21st century. The ideal of beauty in 18th-century England was an exaggerated naturalism. A pale complexion denoted that one didn’t work. Sun-tanned skin, freckles and any blemishes were seen as a sign of the lower classes or of disease. The soft, smooth, white skin of youth was recreated and heightened by an even covering of white ‘paint’ on the face, neck, chest and even hands. Blue veins were then painted on top to create the illusion of skin. Lips were stained red and cheeks highly rouged. Eyebrows were raised high and black crescent-moon shaped beauty spots, patches or mouches were selectively placed on the face. Hair was swept high off the forehead and usually in the form of a powdered wig. This look, incidentally, was aspired to by men as well as women. The ladies and gentlemen of Bath would have slathered their faces and skin with various concoctions containing white lead, arsenic, mercury, spermaceti, carmine, and other unpleasant and unhealthy ingredients. Bath shops, such as Mary Purdie’s on North Parade and Richard Warren’s in Alfred Street, advertised in local pamphlets and newspapers detailing the cosmetics sold, including Lady Molyneaux’s Liquid Bloom and the popular Gowland’s Lotion, which contained mercuric chloride and stripped back layers of skin in a somewhat extreme 18th-century method of microdermabrasion. As the century progressed, the danger of some cosmetics became more widely apparent with a number of high-profile deaths. In 1776, the actress and courtesan Kitty Fisher, one of the first great British celebrities, died at the age of 26 in Bath, allegedly from the effects of the lead-based make-up she used. Georgian make-up could cause hair and tooth loss, plus lesions on the face; yet, to disguise the damage done, people would apply even more make-up thus exacerbating the problems. By the late 18th century, the consumer looked to more natural organic ingredients, mainly consisting of vegetable dyes. In Bath in 1787, Mr Cratwell and Mr Moore sung the praises in a local paper of their Venus Vegetable Bloom that was now available to purchase from them. For those not naturally blessed in the looks department, cosmetic aids were available. Eyebrows were often shaved off and painted higher up the face, but for some the use of mouse or moleskin as a false brow was preferred. If one had sagging features due to illness or the ageing process then cork padding could be put into mouth cavities to fill out any sunken areas. False teeth were not uncommon whatever one’s age, and these were made from real

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human teeth from the poor or dead, or carved from porcelain or animal ivory. Hippopotamus ivory was much coveted for it was believed to be the nearest colour match to natural teeth. Make-up had initially been used mainly by prostitutes and actresses, and was also used to disguise disfigurements caused by illness or sexually transmitted diseases. The same was true of facial patches. These could not only indicate one’s political leanings (left cheek for a Tory supporter, right cheek for Whig), but could also, through their position on the face, be a useful communication tool to sweethearts and potential admirers.

A room full of very good Company, swore, That in spite of appearance, t’was very well known, Their hair and their faces were none of their own Christopher Anstey, Letter XII, Bath, 1766

It is misleading to imagine the balls and gatherings in Bath to be glamorous affairs. Heavy make-up, powdered wigs and unwashed bodies would have created an atmosphere more akin to the description of a Bath Assembly given in Tobias Smollett’s Humphrey Clinker: “Imagine yourself a high exalted essence of mingled odours arising from putrid gums, imposthumated lungs, sour flatulencies, rank armpits, sweating feet, running sores . . . plaisters, ointments . . . spirit of lavender, musk, hartshorn.” To resolve any odour issue, the Georgians wouldn’t have considered immersive bathing, except at the Baths as part of medical treatments, but preferred to mask smells with perfumes and oils. In Bath these could be purchased from specialist perfumers like Mr De Coppa, an Italian dealer who could be found at the sign of the Civet Cat in the Abbey Church Yard. Hair, like make-up, was dictated by fashion in 18th-century Bath. Red or grey hair was unfashionable, and local shops advertised the sale of hair dyes or recipes to change the colour. Hair loss was associated with illness and disease. William Moore, who operated from the Orange Grove and High Street, did his part to cater for locals who were follically challenged by producing in 1777 a 40-page pamphlet, The Art of Hairdressing and Making It Grow Fast. How successful the outcome of his advice was we do not know.

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Ridiculous taste, or the Ladies Absurdity, by Matthew Darly 1771

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DYING OF VANITY: Actress and courtesan Kitty Fisher died aged just 26 – her death was later attributed to the toxic cosmetics she was said to have used.

“That Beauty lives and ne’er will fade Tis false: Those wanton curls will fail That rosy colour yield to pale… This face, these eyes, Which once could please, they now despise.”

Both men and women tended to wear wigs, except for the very poorest, and had a plethora of styles to choose from. For men, from the 1720s the full-bottomed wigs so favoured in King Charles II’s court gave way to the much shorter, powdered wig, styled into designs such as the sack-wig or campaign-wig. Some women had their natural hair woven into their wigs, but more often than not, for comfort’s sake more than anything else, both men and women shaved their heads. Women’s hairstyles tended to become more flamboyant as the century wore on. Horsehair and cork padding, or even iron structures, were added for volume and to create elaborate styles; plus ribbons, combs and feathers abounded. Eventually women’s wigs got to such an extreme in height and style that they were soon lampooned in print and press by illustrators such as Rowlandson, and writers such as Bath’s own Christopher Anstey. Dressing, styling and powdering hair was time-consuming. In John Wood’s original home on Gay Street one can still today peer through the window to see an extant Powder-Room where a lady or gentleman would sit, covering their nose, eyes and mouth with a paper cone, while the hairdresser applied powder with a pair of bellows. The powder stuck to the hair and wig by means of a pomatum made of fat or oil. With some hairstyles remaining unchanged for weeks if not months, it was not uncommon for wigs to become fetid, and for fleas or lice to hatch inside. A Cornish parson, John Penrose, who visited Bath in 1767, expressed shock that many had their own hair incorporated into these toupees since “(they) do not comb their heads for three months and endeavour to conceal the stink with perfumes, essences, etc.” Wigs could be very expensive. John Bally sold his in the city for between 16 shillings and 2 guineas each (around £90 to £225 in today’s prices).

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They were considered prized possessions, and in fact some Georgians regarded their hair so highly that they left their wigs in their wills to family or friends. Enough barbers, hairdressers and peruke (wig) makers abounded in the city in the 1750s that it necessitated a guild being set up. These mainly male friseurs catered for both male and female clientele. Some came only to Bath when it was the season, much to the chagrin of the local hairdressers. Competition was fierce and the advertisement of exotic credentials or important clients seemed an added enticement. For example, in 1769 a hairdresser simply called Nadal advertised his arrival in the city to Kingston Buildings direct from Paris. After the French Revolution in 1789, English ideals of beauty and fashion attempted to move swiftly away from any French influences, and instead looked to the countryside and the classical world for a simpler natural style. In 1795, the government set about taxing hair powder which tolled the final death knell on the excessive appearances of the 18th century. From the 1800s onwards a wig was really only the mainstay of doctors, lawyers and the clergy. Today, the modern barristers’ and High Court judges’ horsehair wigs are the last vestiges of an old custom. Despite the poisonous potions and puffed-up perukes available in 18th-century Bath, locals and visitors alike could not keep the ravages of age at bay.  Six Stages of Mending a Face. Dedicated with respect to the Right Hon-ble Lady Archer by Thomas Rowlandson. 1792

IMAGE: Alamy Stock Photo

Advice to a Lady, Anon, 1765

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Explore TILLIUS, your premier destination store for unusual homewares, clothing, unique gifts & curiosities.

Find us on Pulteney Bridge! 4-5 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX www.tilliuslifestyle.com

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POSTCARDS

Thermae Bath Spa Twenty years after Thermae Bath Spa reopened Bath’s famous thermal waters to the public, the city’s hot springs remain a buoyant natural resource, unique in the UK, offering a remarkable connection between Bath’s ancient past and its modern-day spa culture. Melissa Blease dives in

ver the centuries, Bath has been built and developed around the natural, geothermally heated, mineral-rich springs that flow beneath the city’s historical Roman remains. Today, the Thermae Bath Spa – which opened its doors to the public in 2006 – enjoys superstar status at the epicentre of modern-day life in the city, reintroducing the ancient customs of spa culture to locals and visitors alike. The Thermae Bath Spa brings together two grand baths, a rooftop pool, a wellness suite, a stand-alone pool on a sacred site,

a café, a visitor centre and a shop. This is a sleekly designed complex where spa facilities and state-of-the-art features flourish together against a ‘uniquely Bath’ backdrop. The Spa offers a memorable, relaxing experience for water babies, those in need of refuge from the stresses and strains of modern life and grand design enthusiasts. The Thermae Bath Spa neither detracts from nor dominates its surroundings; even though the main building is largely wrapped in stainless steel and multiple sheets of glass, the height and scale pay subtle, respectful homage to the surrounding structures. YOUR VISIT

THE ROMAN STEAM ROOM

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Although it tops the ‘must-do’ list for around 290,000 visitors every year, the Thermae Bath Spa attracts locals as well as tourists. The clever layout encourages visitors to wander freely from space to space, so it’s always possible to find yourself a quiet, secluded oasis of blissful tranquility. A standard two-hour spa session allows you to experience the Thermae Bath Spa at your own pace: make a gentle splash in the glamorous Minerva Bath (the largest of the baths), relax in the multi-sensory Wellness Suite and float around the spectacular Rooftop Pool, which offers breathtaking views over the city and is naturally warm and steamy at any hour of the day or night. If you fancy a refreshment break, don’t worry about revisiting your locker for your wallet; purchases at the Springs Café are charged to your TBS SmartBand and paid for on exit. The extensive Spa Treatment menu (which must be booked at the same time as a standard spa session) offers around 20 treatments and therapies, ranging from traditional or hot stone massage to pampering face and body treatments. The Thermae Bath Spa’s array of signature treatments includes the likes of the exotic Frangipani Delight exfoliation ritual to nourish and cocoon the body in moisture, while buffing the skin to reveal a radiant, renewed glow and harmonised mind. Or, if you’re looking for a relaxing evening activity, make the most of the stunning views from the rooftop pool with one of Thermae’s Twilight packages, combining an evening spa session with refreshments in the Springs Café. For a more intimate experience, the historic Cross Bath offers 90-minute open-air thermal bathing sessions on selected days, alongside options for exclusive hire.

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HOT TUB IN THE MINERVA BATHS

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HISTORY In 1995 Bath and North East Somerset Council applied to the National Lottery for new project funding to regenerate Bath’s reputation as a modern-day spa destination. Two years later, the Millennium Commission granted the Bath Spa Project £7.78m to restore five historic buildings including the 18th-century Hot Bath, the ancient Cross Bath and the New Royal Bath: the stunning glass and stone edifice designed by internationally acclaimed architects Sir Nicholas Grimshaw and Partners, today housing the main spa complex. Until the spa restoration was completed in 2006, the thermal waters that flowed from the springs, which naturally contain over 42 minerals and trace elements, were rerouted to pour into the River Avon. Today, over one million litres of this natural resource are used in the Thermae Bath Spa. The Hot Bath, a Grade II listed building* designed by John Wood the Younger, dates from 1777. Nearby, the Cross Bath occupies a site with an even longer history and is recognised as an official sacred site. Its thermal spring has origins stretching

back beyond written records, and the waters have been used for bathing for more than 2,000 years. The present Cross Bath was rebuilt in 1789 by City Architect John Palmer and his predecessor Thomas Baldwin, on the site of an earlier medieval bath and an ancient Roman cistern. Today, enclosed by historic buildings yet open to the sky, it offers a particularly atmospheric reminder of the extraordinary natural resource around which Bath has developed – and which continues to shape the life of the city today.

 Visit: Thermae Bath Spa, Hot Bath Street, Bath BA1 1SJ  Open daily from 9am – 9.30pm  Standard two-hour session £44 (weekdays), £49 (weekends), includes use of towel, robe. See web for special packages and add-on treatments  Web: thermaebathspa.com  Tel: 01225 331234

OPEN-AIR ROOFTOP POOL

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FASCINATING FACTS 10,000 years in the making The hot springs in Bath are a natural resource which deliver over one million litres of mineral-rich water every day. Rainwater that fell around 10,000 years ago permeated to a depth of around 2km below the earth’s surface where it is heated by geothermal activity to an estimated 69˚C (156˚F) before rising back up through one of the three springs in the centre of the city: the Cross Spring, the Hetling Spring or the King’s Spring. The spring water is around 45˚C (113˚F) when it reaches the surface. It then cools down to the optimum bathing temperature of approximately 34˚C (93˚F). In recent years, the Thermal Resource Project, an integral part of the original Bath Spa Project, carried out extensive drilling in and around Bath in an attempt to discover more about the actual source of Bath’s thermal waters. The most recent findings suggest that the rainwater probably enters the ground through areas of Carboniferous Limestone to the north, west and south of Bath. The water has a unique mineral composition which contains over 42 minerals and trace elements. The principal dissolved minerals and constituents in Bath’s thermal waters are (expressed in milligrams per litre): Sulphate – 1015, Calcium – 358, Chloride – 340, Sodium – 195, Bicarbonate – 193, Magnesium – 57, Silica – 21, Iron – 0.5. The temperature and flow of the springs are monitored by the local authority and the data is used for assessing the potential impact on the springs of any development within or outside the city. The flow and temperature of the Hot Springs are relatively constant. Between 1983 and 1985, the drilling of boreholes beneath the King's and Cross Springs (68 and 32 metres deep respectively) ensured the supply of clean water. Thermae Bath Spa draws water from the three springs – the King’s Spring (from under Stall Street), the Cross Bath and the Hetling Spring (a new borehole sunk in 1998 and 2011).

THE INFRARED ROOM

The water is tested weekly and consistently declared safe. There is now an online computerised monitoring system so that flow and temperature information is available at any time. The word ‘spa’ derives from the Belgian town of Spa, (Aquae Spadanae in Roman times) celebrated for its mineral springs. It is often associated with the Latin phrase salus per aquam, meaning ‘health through water’, although this is a later interpretation. From the 1970s until the restoration and completion of the Spa in 2006, this natural resource went down the drain and ended up in the River Avon. Today, the natural thermal waters feed all four baths at Thermae Bath Spa: the Cross Bath, the Hot Bath, the Minerva Bath and the open-air rooftop pool. THE CROSS BATH

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Spa Sanctuary Thermal pools, vitamin-enriched facials, indulgent massages, saunas and steam rooms. Crystal Rose rounds up a few favourite places for a good pampering session

The thermal pool at the Gainsborough Bath Spa

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SPA / ROUND-UP

THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA Beau Street, Bath BA1 1QY Web: thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk As one of the only geothermally heated pools in the UK, Spa Village at The Gainsborough Bath Spa is unique. Connect with the city’s thermal water heritage in a day’s indulgent adventure with four different spa packages to choose from. Drawing on Bath’s healing traditions and signature therapies from the original Spa Villages in Malaysia, the experience offers a distinctive approach to relaxation and wellbeing. With three natural thermal pools of varying temperatures, infrared and traditional saunas, an ice alcove, steam room and elegant relaxation areas, prepare to be truly spoilt for choice. The Gainsborough Bath Spa offers 11 treatment rooms, including a couples room and a VIP suite, and facilites also include a fitness gym and relaxation terrace. The treatments available include exfoliant body scrubs, bespoke facials, aromatherapy, deep tissue and bamboo massages with The Gainsborough’s knowledgable and talented therapists. Round off your day with an elegant afternoon tea served with a glass of prosecco in the brasserie, a perfect end to a day of restorative indulgence. For complete relaxation, experience a Spa Day package and enjoy the facilities, a 50-minute treatment, a personalised aromatherapy blending session and afternoon tea with a glass of prosecco. Prices from £195 per person

THE SPA AT THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Web: royalcrescent.co.uk/the-spa Tucked away within the private gardens of The Royal Crescent Hotel, The Spa & Bath House offers a peaceful retreat in the heart of Bath. Facilities include a 12-metre heated pool, vitality pool (hot tub), sauna, steam room and gym, alongside six treatment rooms and a secluded spa garden. Choose from a range of treatments by GROUND Wellbeing, combining holistic therapies with a focus on relaxation and restoring balance, or Medik8, renowned for its science-led skincare and results-driven facials. Whether visiting for a treatment, spa day or an overnight stay, discover a little time for yourself at Bath’s most iconic address.

LUCKNAM PARK HOTEL & SPA Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Web: lucknampark.co.uk Expect elegant walled gardens, a 20-metre indoor swimming pool, indoor and outdoor hydrotherapy pools, thermal cabins, sauna and steam rooms, and a Life Fitness and Technogym suite. Make the most of the surrounding countryside with a workout at the outdoor gym or enjoy a relaxing stroll through the charming gardens. The Spa at Lucknam Park has eight treatment rooms where the expert therapists perform a range of personalised and indulgent spa treatments. There’s even a pre-treatment social lounge with a product mixology bar available to help get your experience off to a flying start. A variety of treatments include a Lucknam Bespoke massage, an anti-cellulite treatment, maternity massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. Or keep the little ones occupied with the selection of children’s and teenage treatments with skilled, friendly therapists and all-natural products. POSTCARD from BATH / 109

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SPA / ROUND-UP

THE GARDEN SPA BY L’OCCITANE AT THE BATH PRIORY The Bath Priory, Weston Road, Bath, BA1 2XT Tel: 01225 478395 Web: thebathpriory.co.uk/spa The Bath Priory is home to the UK’s only L’Occitane spa and this award-winning spa has a selection of luxurious treatments, an indoor pool, poolside sauna, elliptical steam pod and shower. From the moment you enter The Garden Spa by L’Occitane, fragrances transport you to Provence; the escape begins with scent. Every gesture, every ingredient, every ritual is drawn from a page of the L’Occitane grand herbarium, a resource of hundreds of essential oils and natural ingredients. Open to hotel and day guests, all are welcomed on a true olfactory journey, where all aspects of well-being are combined to help guests feel their best and unwind their mind. Choose from individual treatments, which include a signature ‘Fusion Face & Body Treatment’ (from £140/60 mins, or from £175/90 mins) or opt for spa day packages which combine a 60-minute treatment, a delicious two-course lunch in The Pantry with a glass of sparkling wine and full access to swimming pools, thermal areas and dedicated relaxation spaces, as well as four acres of beautiful gardens to enjoy, all from £165per person. Specialist treatments are also available for mums-to-be, as well as for those undergoing or having completed cancer treatments, through the spa’s partnership with The Amethyst Trust.

MACDONALD BATH SPA HOTEL Sydney Road, Bath BA2 6NS Web: macdonaldhotels.co.uk

The pool at the Apex City of Bath Hotel’s leisure facility

APEX CITY OF BATH HOTEL James Street West, Bath BA1 2DA Web: apexhotels.co.uk If it’s heated beds and a pool with a beautiful waterfall feature you’re wishing for, then look no further. The Apex City of Bath Hotel offers an oasis of calm in the city. Expect warm ambient temperatures, a relaxing atmosphere and aromatherapy dosing systems, which allow essential oils to be infused into the shower area. There’s a steam room, sauna and shower experience all situated around the pool area. Look out for the cold bucket treatment that’s designed to rejuvenate and reinvigorate tired bodies. What’s more, you can also head to the state-of-the-art gym within the four-star hotel if it’s a workout you’re in need of. Featuring a range of cardio, free weights and resistance equipment, it’s the perfect place to work up a sweat before unwinding in the spa. Take a break from the stresses and strains of everyday life in this little oasis of tranquillity.

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Escape from reality and take some time out at Macdonald Bath Spa. Using none other than ELEMIS products, your skin is in great hands here. From the Macdonald Signature Treatment grounding massage and nutrient-rich facial to the Body Nectar Nourish Wrap, the choice is all yours. Or you could release your inner glow with the Pro-Glow Brilliance face treatment or a Couture Touch facial, combining deep tissue massage with a hands on facial. Performed on a pear-shaped beanbag that moulds to every bump, there’s also a peaceful pregnancy massage available to restore wellbeing. With ELEMIS at the spa’s core, all treatments will provide you with the sanctuary that you deserve. Enjoy state-of-theart gym equipment, the sensuous spa and a gorgeous pool to dip into.

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TREATS from BATH It’s time to pamper

While in Bath, treat yourself to something luxurious from one of the upmarket emporia that have chosen Bath for their flagship stores. Our selection of indulgences includes luxurious body washes, restorative serums, elegant fragrances, calming diffusers and other pampering essentials. Bramley X The Pig Hand and Body Wash, £24 (300ml). Bramley and THE PIG share a deep-rooted love for the British countryside and a commitment to preserving the natural environment. Both are B Corpcertified brands that believe business can be a force for good. Bramley, Unit 11, Shires Yard, 41 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DN; bramleyproducts.co.uk

Overnight Reset Serum, L’Occitane, £62 (30ml). What if you could reset your skin overnight, erase the impact of stress and fatigue, and wake up each morning with fresh, rested, healthy-looking skin? Immortelle Overnight Reset Serum is suitable for sensitive skins and is clinically proven to have an instant and long-term effect on glow.

Noir Diffuser, The White Company, £40. This sensuous, sophisticated scent draws inspiration from Parisian nightfall, when the streets are dark but the occasional window glints behind closed curtains. Opulent amber entwines with flirtatiously bright mandarin and whispers of aromatic sandalwood. The White Company, 15 Northgate Street, Bath BA1 5AS; thewhitecompany.com

Red Roses Cologne, Jo Malone London, £58 – £125. The essence of modern romance, inspired by a voluptuous blend of seven of the world’s most exquisite roses. With crushed violet leaves and a hint of lemon, it unfolds like a bouquet of freshly cut flowers.

Remedies to Roll for Travel, Neal’s Yard Remedies £13.50 ( 9ml). This on-the-go aromatherapy blend of bergamot, neroli, rosemary and clary sage essential oils is expertly formulated to help keep you revitalised and promote a sense of calm during your travels. 11 Northumberland Place, Bath BA1 5AR; nealsyardremedies.com

Jo Malone London, 6–7 Old Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BW; jomalone.co.uk

L’Occitane, 13 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BE; loccitane.com

Aesop Eleos Unforeseen Aer Eau de Parfum, £160 (50ml), £250 (100ml). A fragrant composition with a fresh, aromatic and mineral character, taking the mind to rugged, windblown heights. Unforeseen Aer brings a cool gust of freshness, in an unconventional take on a fougère perfume. A fable about imperfection told through scent, it creates an accord of pure air via geranium, lavandin and rosemary, grounded by the textured warmth of nutmeg. Aesop, 16 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BA; aesop.com/uk

Bold Blend, Penhaligon’s, £220 (100ml), £145 (50ml). Why play it safe? Peppermint jumps. Black pepper jolts. Palo santo pushes boundaries you never knew you had. Climb higher with violet leaf and clary sage, in a scent that says yes (before you overthink it). Penhaligon’s, 14 New Bond Street, Bath BA1 1BE; penhaligons.com

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APPETITE! / FOOD & DRINK

food & drink

Bath’s Top Tables When it comes to eating out, Bath is blessed with a superb range of cuisines and culinary delights from around the world. We go behind the menus of the city’s favourite eateries – Time to chow down!

ath is paradise for bon viveurs of every persuasion. There are hundreds of all-tastes, all-budgets, panglobal cuisine opportunities, from Michelin-starred restaurants and cutting-edge culinary hotspots to the perfect post-pub bag of hot chips. And when the winter chill sets in, the city’s dining scene becomes even more inviting. Step inside from the frosty streets to a cosy café, settle beside a roaring fire in a welcoming gastropub, or linger over a candlelit dinner in one of Bath’s stylish restaurants. Eat on the hoof or lounge on a plush banquette overlooking an elegant private garden. Take time out for an impromptu lunch or book a table at the coolest dining room in town. Go six-course tasting menu or small-plate it with tapas. Whatever your appetite, just do it – and prepare to indulge your senses.

Shires Yard for delicious Indian small plates and street food. For tapasstyle French nibbles, snacks and excellent cheese and charcuterie boards, make your way to Comptoir+Cuisine on George Street. But if it’s a Brit lunch you need, there’s no better place to enjoy the best ever fish and chips than at The Scallop Shell in Monmouth Street – it’s an attraction in itself and an absolute must when in Bath. For quick bites and takeaway lunches, Bath has a brilliant selection of delis and coffee shops. Head to the Green Street Deli (conveniently named as it’s in Green Street) for generously filled sandwiches made with freshly baked bread and carefully sourced ingredients, or explore The Fine Cheese Company and trendy Landrace Bakery, both on Walcot Street. Just around the corner, at the junction of Saracen Street and Walcot Street, Picnic Coffee is another popular stop for a lunchtime bite.

BREAKFAST TO BRUNCH The lavish, Georgian wake-up call so beloved in Jane Austen’s time still impacts on life in Bath today. Breakfast and brunch are big here; from bacon butties or freshly baked pastries to shakshuka via passionfruit pancakes and prosecco. Why not? Several of the establishments that line leafy, historic Kingsmead Square vie for the accolade of serving the best breakfast in Bath. The city centre branch of the Boston Tea Party was one of this small, independently owned chain’s very first establishments. BTP menus are all good stuff, but the all-day brunch menus hold legendary status. Local produce is pushed to the fore at the Kingsmead Kitchen too, while the Society Café (with its amazing coffee – and damned good almond croissants) is a buzzing Bath hotspot from the minute it opens. Most have outside seating and the vibe is oh so Parisienne – even on a crisp winter’s morning. According to the little sign hanging on the wall outside the Wild Café (Queen Street), Jane Austen declared the full English breakfast served here to be “the bestest in town.” Okay, so Austen probably did not say that, but the Wild Café’s breakfast menu is, indeed a thing of beauty. Try the full English blowout via pancake stacks and Eggs Royale, Florentine or Benedict. Vegetarian options abound and pretty much everything is made on the premises to order, using local, seasonal ingredients.

TEA, COFFEE AND CAKES When in Bath you do need to take on some afternoon treats, either to make an occasion of your stay or to take a well-earned break from walking the city and boost your energy levels. Nothing beats the prospect of a cosy, treatsome afternoon tea – and variations of the afternoon delights theme are abundant in Bath. Go grand at the Pump Room in Abbey Churchyard – their Beau Nash cream tea includes smoked Scottish salmon and cucumber pikelet with Cuvée Brut. Alternatively try a spectacular assortment of sandwiches, pastries and cakes at the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel on Beau Street, or escape the city walls to The Bath Priory (Weston Road) or relish in the splendour of the Royal Crescent Hotel. Go modern-elegant at The Ivy Bath Brasserie on Milsom Street with options such as truffled chicken brioche roll and freshly baked scones. Do the Jane Austen-style thing at the Regency Tea Rooms on Gay Street – served by figures in regency regalia, you can indulge in Mrs Bennet’s cake, or sample a characterful taste of the city’s history at Sally Lunn’s on North Parade Passage (the etiquette here is to eat your bun with a knife and fork). You can also dive into a huge pot of tea and a massive slab of homemade scrumptiousness at Café Lucca (Bartlett Street), Mokoko (Abbey Churchyard), or a pretty, little, sweet-treat Mecca that is the aptlynamed Sweet Little Things (Old Bond Street). But don’t go overboard because dinner is just around the corner...

OUT FOR LUNCH Small plates, soups and sarnies make popular lunch options, and Bath caters for every taste. For a quick Japanese fix, Tonkotsu on Stall Street serves steaming bowls of ramen, homemade noodles and gyoza. For lunchtime spice, head to Sarthi, an Indian vegan and vegetarian restaurant in a vaulted former chapel on Walcot Street, or Bandook in

BISTROS, PUBS, DINERS, TRATTORIAS AND TAVERNAS – THE WORLD ON A PLATE Don’t overlook dining at one of Bath’s glorious gastropubs in your search for a superb suppertime experience. Sydneys (Monmouth Place, next to the Scallop Shell) and the Garrick’s Head (to the side of the Theatre Royal Bath) are both conveniently placed for a pre-theatre

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BANDOOK – A FEAST OF SUPERB STREET FOOD

SLICE OF HEAVEN: BATH PIZZA CO

GREAT STEAKS: HUDSON STEAK HOUSE

FINE DINING AT THE BATH PRIORY

CONVIVIAL HOSTS: RICHARD AND MARTY AT CORKAGE

MICHELIN STARRED: RESTAURANT HYWEL JONES AT LUCKNAM PARK

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APPETITE! / FOOD & DRINK

fast fix, while The Marlborough Tavern (Marlborough Buildings) is just a short hop from the Royal Crescent and has one of the best pub menus in Bath. If you want an all-things-to-all-people experience, from upper-crust incarnations of pub classics to full-on foodie fabulous menus, try The Raven in Queen Street – a great pub for a pie and a pint – or the tiny Coeur de Lion in Northumberland Place is a quirky little joy. Many of Bath’s best restaurants are perfect for pre-theatre suppers and semi-posh early evening dining. There’s the elegant Woods in Alfred Street – a Bath institution – the much-reviewed (and revered) Beckford Canteen in Bartlett Street and the warm character of Emberwood at the Francis Hotel. Green Park Brasserie and Bath Pizza Co., both at Green Park Station, the smart Italian bistro La Terra in John Street, Solina and Magari for freshly made pasta, and newcomer Osteria Partenopea on Upper Borough Walls, bringing authentic Neapolitan flavours to the city, are all great places to start. But make some time for the well-loved bistros Corkage on Chapel Row and Chez Dominique on Argyle Street. In fact, with wine lists like these, cancel all other plans… you’ll probably want to stay the whole evening. For a wallet-friendly, casual theme, Dough Pizza (Kingsmead Square) has dough choices including turmeric, hemp and seaweed, or try the bargain-priced Yum Yum Thai (Kingsmead Square) – where the in-the-wok stir-fries are fantastically fresh. Staying with Eastern delights - and also on Kingsmead Square – is Bath’s best Chinese restaurant: Peking – or make your way to the super-charming Noya’s Kitchen on St. James’s Parade serving up the most divine and vibrantly coloured Vietnamese dishes. Go for Yakiniku and Highballs from the Japanese-inspired menu of Robun on George Street – fusion food at its very best. Sitting comfortably between constant delights and best bib ‘n’ tucker destination diners you can't go wrong at the chic and stylish Circus Restaurant in Brock Street (leave room for the excellent desserts), or the casually elegant Clayton’s Kitchen on George Street. Hudson Steakhouse on Walcot Street is another favourite for superb steaks and cocktails, but do try the Brasserie Beau at The Indigo Hotel or get a brilliant burger fix from The Beefy Boys and for stylish all day dining the ‘artisan quarter’ of Walcot Street is home to Walcot House. INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED For special occasions and memorable dining experiences, Bath has no shortage of acclaimed chefs. Chris Cleghorn has retained his Michelin star at The Olive Tree in the Queensberry Hotel, as has Hywel Jones at Lucknam Park. Gordon Ramsay is another celebrated name on the scene, with his stylish Bread Street Kitchen & Bar at the DoubleTree by Hilton on Walcot Street offering contemporary British classics in a lively, elegant setting. Elsewhere, chef-proprietor Robert Clayton at Clayton’s Kitchen and Martin Blake, head chef at Montagu’s Mews at the Royal Crescent Hotel, are both highly regarded for their exceptional cooking, creative flair and memorable dining experiences. There’s simply no excuse for being hungry in Bath.  Need more inspiration? Turn the page for our Eating Out Guide or access all the information while you’re out and about at: postcardmagazine.co.uk

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COOKING WITH PASSION: CHEF ROB CLAYTON, CLAYTON’S KITCHEN

CHIPS AHOY! THE SCALLOP SHELL

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Photography by TBM

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CONVERSATIONS

Martin Blake: Fine dining, fresh thinking

Fine dining doesn’t have to mean formality. Melissa Blease meets Martin Blake, the chef behind Montagu’s Mews at the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, where modern British menus combine classical technique, seasonal inspiration and plenty of creative flair. So, what’s cooking?

t’s a crisp autumn afternoon and the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa’s manicured gardens represent, as ever, the ultimate secluded urban oasis tucked away behind Bath’s most iconic example of architectural Georgiana. The scent of lavender hangs in the air, a murmuration of starlings flutter overhead and squirrels skitter around the bushes. In one corner, wedding guests raise champagne flutes to a new Mr and Mrs, while a group of decorous revellers gather on the heated, covered terrace. Although the overall vibe gently encourages mellow merriment, the brigade hard at work in the kitchen are preparing for another busy shift at the hob. Head Chef Martin Blake, however, appears to be as cool as a well-chilled heritage cucumber as he sits down with me for a chat in the bar. Martin joined the Royal Crescent Hotel team in 2021, bringing over 12 years of experience at some of the South West’s best hotels and restaurants with him. Today, the RCH’s stylishly seductive Montagu’s Mews Restaurant and Bar, which was refurbished to super-tasteful contemporary standards in the spring of 2023, offers the perfect backdrop against which to explore Martin’s elegant, flawlessly executed modern British dishes.

I’m passionate about fine dining... people seem to think the phrase is simply shorthand for expensive - which very much isn’t the case anymore “Our menus have changed quite a lot since the refurbishment; we’ve developed and redefined our offering to make it more in keeping with how people want to dine now,” Martin tells me. “The biggest change is that, instead of tasting menus, we include my recommended Chef’s Choice selections on an à la carte menu. It’s still fine dining to exactly the same standards as our tasting menus were, but it’s more creative too; our guests don’t have to commit to a set menu, and neither do we, in the kitchen.” So: less formality, more flair? “Exactly that!” Martin concurs. As a result of the changes, the very best of the new season’s crop (earthy greens; buoyant berries; succulent stone fruits) may be served on an inspirational whim to accompany seasonal superstars such as native oysters or Somerset duck. “Autumn is all about warming food,

earthy flavours, dishes that hug you,” says Martin… while readily admitting that it’s harder to make hearty dishes as pretty as a midsummer salad. This is a chef, however, who’s as proficient in the art of presentation as he is a maestro of technique – and clearly puts his heart and soul into both. “Every time I see the pâté en croûte on the current menu leave the kitchen, I’m chuffed because I know how much work we put into getting it right,” he says. “That dish is the result of a labour of love, but we got there in the end!” Indeed; it’s a phenomenal representation of a classic French creation that elevates what’s ostensibly a slice of pork and pistachio terrine wrapped in a hot water pastry crust to stellar heights. “I’m passionate about fine dining,” says Martin. “Nowadays, people seem to be apologetic about saying that, or think the phrase is simply shorthand for expensive – which very much isn’t the case anymore. Eating out is changing so much and there are so many places doing different things; in London there are Greek restaurants with Michelin stars, and that sort of thing really interests me. My favourite restaurant ever is Paul Ainsworth’s No 6 in Padstow, and I love Japanese-influenced food too. But obviously, my own style is classic British.” At Martin’s bidding, we sample a succession of dishes that showcase his style: Porthilly Oysters “Hot and Cold” (one crispy; one bracingly fresh and briny), and silky-rich Cornish bluefin tuna served with a sprightly ponzu. Somerset lamb comes in multiple magnificent formats perfectly complemented by a deeply umami tapenade and a bright, vibrant basil emulsion, while a buttery fillet of pan-roasted halibut accompanied by sweet, fat mussels and bracingly briny sea vegetables proves to be equally sensational. At the finishing line, a fluffy, featherlight strawberry soufflé and a second dessert combining the extraordinarily complex Valrhona Opalys (the only white chocolate that turns my head) with Earl Grey, apricot and camomile: intriguing and charming in equal measure. Balance and harmony; skill and thrills – why Martin doesn’t have a Michelin star to complement the bouquet of three AA rosettes that he’s maintained since 2022 is totally beyond me. “I just try to cook food that I like and I know our guests are going to like, and hope that one day, Michelin will like it too,” he shrugs. “Stars are a dream and a goal for sure, but it’s all completely out of my hands.” But for a chef of Martin’s calibre, dreams can come true, and goals can be reached; I don’t doubt for one moment that stardust will one day sprinkle all over his hob.  Head Chef Martin Blake. Montagu’s Mews Restaurant, The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS. royalcrescent.co.uk POSTCARD from BATH / 117

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THE GUIDE

eating out

The best places in Bath to eat, drink and enjoy Looking for great places to eat and drink in Bath? Here are our recommendations to the city’s finest foodie destinations to suit your mood, appetite and pocket.

BATH PIZZA CO Green Park Station, Bath BA1 1JB Tel: 01225 588886 Web: bathpizzaco.com It’s a “welcome to the neighborhood party and you’re invited” kind of vibe here. Bath’s must visit pizzeria, Bath Pizza Co is located in the funky historic Green Park Railway Station. Locally loved, Bath Pizza Co have featured in the National Pizza Awards for three years on the spin landing podium finishes in two of them. Swing by when best suits you for alfresco or indoor dining to soak up the busy atmosphere year round; perfect for lazy lunches and buzzing evenings with live music, cocktails, beers and of course… outstanding pizza.

GREEN PARK BRASSERIE Green Park Station, Bath BA1 1JB Tel: 01225 338565 Web: greenparkbrasserie.com Having become a must-visit destination over its 33 years, “the Braz” is a lively bar and restaurant with 4 nights of live music every week. Located in a funky old railway booking hall with a casual dining atmosphere and two terraces (perfect for sipping cocktails and watching the world go by) this independent business is proud to serve quality local produce and is also popular for its Sunday Roast and Bottomless Brunch - not to mention its sister kitchen Bath Pizza Co. Live music runs every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights from 6.30pm onwards. Booking advised, walk-ups available.

SYDNEY’S BAR & KITCHEN 23 Monmouth Place, Bath BA1 2AY Tel: 01225 260260 Web: sydneysbath.co.uk A neighbourhood bar and kitchen from the team behind The Scallop Shell, Sydney’s sits just next door in the former New Inn. Downstairs, the atmosphere is relaxed and inviting – ideal for dropping in for cocktails, good wine, all-day snacks and midday buns. Upstairs, the beautiful rooftop restaurant offers a delightfully unexpected setting for sun-soaked flavours, seasonal seafood, and nostalgic classics at lunch and dinner. The evolving seasonal menu celebrates the best of British ingredients with a Mediterranean twist, with dishes such as crisp fried monkfish goujons with roast garlic aioli, Weymouth Bay crab linguine, and Somerset pork loin with grilled artichoke and salsa verde. With its cosy, covered heated Rooftop, it’s a delightful yearround destination: the perfect setting for festive gatherings and events. Sundays are all about the sharing roast, and well worth planning around.

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THE GUIDE

eating out

THE SCALLOP SHELL 22 Monmouth Place, Bath BA1 2AY Tel: 01225 420928 Web: thescallopshell.co.uk The Scallop Shell is a much-loved AA Rosette fish restaurant, serving lightly battered and grilled fish and chips and seasonal seafood. Flying the flag for a fresh, sustainable catch from UK waters, the menu changes daily depending on the coastal landings, with fish and shellfish displayed for customers to see in an ice-filled roll-top bath. Opt for classic Scottish haddock fillet served with mushy peas and homemade tartare sauce or make it more of a foodie experience with shared shellfish plates or the likes of oysters followed by Cornish monkfish tail or line-caught wild sea bass, with a great selection of wines sold by the bottle and glass. Up on the first floor, find The Little Scallop, a fully heated twinkly terrace, perfect for festive gettogethers and events.

CHEZ DOMINIQUE 15 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BQ Tel: 01225 463482 Web: chezdominique.co.uk Ever popular, Chez Dominique is a family-run restaurant serving local and seasonal French and European food. Included in the latest Good Food Guide, and The Trencherman’s Guide, it has been granted a certificate of achievement from Harden’s for its high-quality food. This cosy, casual bistro is ideally located on the beautiful Argyle Street just over Pulteney Bridge, and the private dining room – comfortably seating eight – overlooks Pulteney Weir. Chez Dominique offers a prix fixe menu at lunchtimes and from 5-6pm, and à la carte dining in the evenings there’s also a very carefully chosen wine list. Enjoy great food and drink in a relaxing and friendly atmosphere. Bookings – lunch: Monday to Sunday 12–3pm. Evenings: Sunday to Thursday 5–9pm, Friday and Saturday 5–9.30pm.

CORKAGE

Thanks a brunch! The lavish Georgian wake-up calls, so beloved of Jane Austen times, still impact on life in Bath today. For a special breakfast or brunch treat, try the Ivy for a great Eggs Benedict, Walcot House for a fab Full English, or Bandook’s bottomless streetfood brunch with free-flowing prosecco at weekends... Oh yes!

5 Chapel Row, Bath BA1 1HN Tel: 01225 423417 Web: corkagebath.com Corkage is an award-winning independent restaurant, bar and bottle shop in the heart of Bath. Expect creatively cooked, locally sourced seasonal dishes and daily specials, with a broad range of exquisite wines from around the world, by the glass and bottle. As Tom Parker Bowles put it in a recent Mail on Sunday review, “this is the local restaurant of your dreams”. Sip crisp English fizz alongside pasta or day-boat fish or settle in for a multi-course experience featuring the likes of British charcuterie, roast pigeon breasts with smoked bacon, hazelnuts and radish and rose panna cotta with salted peanut baklava. Corkage also hosts regular wine tastings and offers a steal of a set menu every lunch, and early evening, Monday to Thursday. With a heated fairy-lit terrace and covered courtyard garden, it’s a special place to enjoy year-round.

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BREAD STREET KITCHEN & BAR Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BJ Tel: 01225 788488 Web: breadstreetkitchen-bath.com Gordon Ramsay brings his celebrated Bread Street Kitchen & Bar to Bath, offering a vibrant dining experience where bold flavours and contemporary British cooking take centre stage. The stylish restaurant combines a lively, welcoming atmosphere with a tempting menu of seasonal dishes and much-loved classics. From Ramsay’s signature Beef Wellington and traditional fish and chips to rare-breed prime steaks, fresh seasonal salads and indulgent desserts, there’s plenty to savour. Whether enjoying a leisurely lunch, cocktails at the buzzing bar or an evening meal with friends, guests can expect the warmth, energy and attention to flavour that have made Bread Street Kitchen & Bar a popular dining destination. A welcome addition to Bath’s flourishing food scene.

NOYA’S KITCHEN 7 St James’s Parade, Bath BA1 1UL Tel: 01225 552582 Web: noyaskitchen.co.uk Noya’s Kitchen & Cookery School serves up delicious Vietnamese home cooking in a stylish and beautiful Grade II-listed building in central Bath. Voted one of the UK’s Top 5 Independent Restaurants by Gousto and judged Bath’s Best Restaurant in 2022, advance bookings in the evenings and at weekends are essential! Vietnamese food lovers can enjoy delicious dishes like Pho, Vietnamese curries, noodles and summer rolls on Tuesday– Sunday for lunch from 12–3.30pm, or dinner Tuesday-Saturday from 5–9pm. There’s always something new and delicious on the Specials board in the restaurant, or tune in to Noya’s Kitchen social feed to hear about them. The menu changes regularly depending on locally sourced ingredients, the weather and Noya’s inspiration. Book online or call in; you’ll be warmly welcomed. Noya’s Cookery School opened in 2026 in its lovely garden room as a new home for Noya’s Vietnamese cooking classes. Immersive, fun and totally delicious, visit Noya’s website for all the details!

TONKOTSU RAMEN BAR 40 Stall Street, Bath BA1 1QH Tel: 01225 589368 Web: tonkotsu.co.uk Tonkotsu serves up nourishing broths and homemade noodles – cooked for precisely 32 seconds for that perfect bite – alongside handmade gyoza and Japanese sides, including crispy-fried chicken. Located in the heart of Bath, with wonderful views of the Roman Baths, the restaurant offers a relaxed setting in which to enjoy Japanese comfort food. From rich, warming bowls of ramen to tempting small plates, Tonkotsu puts its heart and soul into every dish, with an emphasis on flavour and fresh ingredients. Veggie and vegan options are available, along with a weekday set lunch for just £10.50 and rotating specials throughout the year. Open daily from 11.30am, with no need to book. Ramen is always a good idea!

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THE BATH PRIORY RESTAURANT The Bath Priory, Weston Road, Bath, BA1 2XT Tel: 01225 331922 Web: thebathpriory.co.uk/restaurant At the heart of The Bath Priory hotel is the three AA Rosette restaurant, an elegant dining area with magnificent views across the hotel’s beautiful gardens. Executive Head Chef, Chris Hopkins, arrived at the restaurant in March 2026 and has introduced menus embracing his cooking style which is rooted in simplicity with flavour-driven dishes. Original and refined, without unnecessary complication, Chris aims for clarity with bold, confident flavours that remain elegant and balanced. With tables spaciously set in the restaurant to allow a relaxed dining experience, guests might enjoy dishes such as a starter of ‘Roast Orkney scallop with ajo blanco’ or main of ‘Sea Bass, mussels, rainbow chard, nduja, Amalfi lemon’ to give examples. Complemented by an exemplary wine cellar, the hotel team ensures every detail of the dining experience is perfectly paired. The Bath Priory restaurant is open for dinner, Wednesday – Sunday from 6pm to 8.30pm and costs £98 for three courses à la carte, with a five-course ‘Highlights’ menu also available for £125 per person. Visit the website or call the hotel to book your table.

MONTAGU’S MEWS AT THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Tel: 01225 823333 Web: royalcrescent.co.uk Fresh, local ingredients, refined flair and flawless service. A place to pause, unwind, and enjoy experiences that linger long after the last bite. Montagu’s Mews blends an elegant restaurant with a glamorous bar, where classic cocktails are expertly crafted and the wine list is thoughtfully curated. Head Chef Martin Blake and his team create seasonal dishes that highlight great produce and bold, balanced flavours, from a thoughtfully composed lunch menu to an à la carte dinner offering, with something to suit every occasion. The quintessential afternoon tea provides a timeless indulgence, with the option to enjoy it on the heated terrace when the weather permits.

CLAYTON’S KITCHEN 15a George Street, Bath BA1 2EN Tel: 01225 724386 Web: claytonskitchen.com Clayton’s Kitchen is a firm favourite with locals and a must for visitors to Bath seeking a wonderful culinary experience. This charming, relaxed and stylish restaurant is led by chef-patron Robert Clayton, who has achieved two Michelin Stars while running restaurants in Bath. Inspired by Mediterranean and modern French cuisine, Robert creates uncomplicated but sublime dishes; prepared, cooked and perfectly presented using the freshest, highest quality ingredients. To reflect this, the beautifully compiled menu changes seasonally and is accompanied by an excellent wine list. Enjoy a fantastic lunch or dinner – you’ll want to return. Special lunch offer Wednesday to Friday: £32 2 courses, £38 3 courses. Open Wednesday to Sunday. Weds–Fri: 12–2pm and 6–9pm. Sat: 12–2.30pm and 6–9.30pm. Sun: 12–3pm and 6–8.30pm.

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WALLED GARDEN RESTAURANT AT LUCKNAM PARK Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Set among the 500-acre Lucknam Park Estate, The Walled Garden Restaurant possesses all the romance and serenity of an English country garden and perfectly complements the Michelin-starred offering at Restaurant Hywel Jones, providing a week-round, all-day dining experience. The light-filled dining space has calming natural views of the courtyard and gardens beyond. Retreat to the Walled Garden Restaurant for elevated classics and seasonal fare; a laid-back dining experience with something for every appetite. Head Chef Alex Greene’s ever-changing menus are attuned to the rhythms of the season; think summer barbecues or Sunday Roast and a refreshing glass of English fizz to top it off. Open every day. Breakfast: 7am-10.30am. Lunch: 12pm-2.30pm (last orders). Dinner: 6pm-9.30pm (last orders). Lounge menu: 12- 6pm.

RESTAURANT HYWEL JONES AT LUCKNAM PARK Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Restaurant Hywel Jones offers an unforgettable dining experience. Enter through the mile-long driveway lined with beech and lime trees before you commence your evening of fine dining from the four-course tasting menu or eight-course menu. Executive chef Hywel Jones has held a Michelin Star at the restaurant since 2006 and uses the finest ingredients to ensure the fullest flavours. Supporting and using fresh, local produce helps enhance the subtle flavours of the cooking. Restaurant Hywel Jones is open from 6pm, Wednesday to Saturday.

THE BEEFY BOYS 24 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DG Tel: 01225 375159 Web: thebeefyboys.com Located on the corner of George Street and Milsom Street, The Beefy Boys brings its award-winning burgers, as well as a vibrant atmosphere to the heart of the city. Originally founded in Hereford, the restaurant has built a devoted following for its indulgent, American-style burgers made with high-quality British beef and inventive flavour combinations. The menu features signature favourites such as the Oklahoma Onion Boy, the Dirty Boy and the indulgent Peanut Butter and Jelly Boy, alongside crispy seasoned fries, loaded sides and a tempting selection of milkshakes and craft beers. With its energetic ambience and friendly service, The Beefy Boys is a great destination for a relaxed meal with friends or family, offering a fun and memorable dining experience. Open 7 days a week, 12pm - 9.30pm.

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HUDSON STEAKHOUSE 14 London Street, Bath BA1 5BU Tel: 01225 332323 Web: hudsonsteakhouse.co.uk

Did you know...? Margherita pizza was named after a queen. In 1889, King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Italy visited Naples and asked for pizza as a way of escaping the fancy food she was used to eating. She found ‘pizza mozzarella’ delicious, a pie topped with soft white cheese, tomatoes, and basil. So the Margherita pizza came to be.

Hudson Steakhouse has been serving the people of Bath the best steaks for over a decade, offering its diners prime dry-aged steaks, starters with a fusion influence and classic dishes, all served in a sympathetic conversion of a oncenotorious Victorian pub. Owner Richard Fenton took on this run-down building and has created a destination that has consistently won bestrestaurant awards locally and nationally. Cocktails, premium beers and world wines are served under sparkling chandeliers and the upstairs grill room has an open kitchen which looks out over Hedgemead Park.

THE OLIVE TREE RESTAURANT The Queensberry Hotel, 4–7 Russel Street, Bath BA1 2QF Tel: 01225 447928 Web: olivetreebath.co.uk

PEKING RESTAURANT

The Olive Tree is currently Bath city centre’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, an accolade first awarded in October 2018. Sitting below The Queensberry Hotel, The Olive Tree, in addition to being the city’s most celebrated restaurant, is one of its longest established, offering relaxed fine dining in a contemporary British setting. Head chef Chris Cleghorn honed his skills and developed his own unique style under world-renowned Michelin star chefs. For more than ten years he has, with his team, been creating amazing meals using seasonal ingredients from high-quality local producers. The Olive Tree’s wine list is also award-winning; it eclectically balances traditional and new, and the restaurant’s warm opulence perfectly complements the quality and style of food.

1–2 New Street, Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AF Tel: 01225 466377 Web: pekingrestaurantbath.co.uk Since opening in 1985, this family-run, independent restaurant is the number-one choice for local, authentic Chinese food. The master chef has created an extensive menu of fresh, healthy and innovative dishes selected from Cantonese, Szechuan and Peking cuisines, using local ingredients wherever possible. As well as the traditional flavours of sweet and sour, ginger and spring onion, Peking also offers much-loved lobster and crab dishes. The chef also prepares special dishes on request. The friendly, skilled staff at Peking strive to provide a genuine Chinese experience with a promise to put their hearts and souls into everything they do.

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COMPTOIR+CUISINE 5 George Street, Bath BA1 2EJ Tel: 01225 684733 Web: comptoirpluscuisine.com

LA TERRA 2 John Street, Bath BA1 2JL Tel: 01225 482070 Web: laterra.co.uk La Terra is an independent restaurant situated in the heart of Bath, having earned a reputation among locals and visitors as one of the city’s best dining destinations. Run by business partners Vito Scaduto and Alessandro Scola, La Terra serves modern Italian cooking using the freshest local market produce alongside specially selected artisan products from Italy. The menu reflects the seasons and highlights many different aspects of Italian dining.Guests can enjoy a selection of homemade breads, burrata with local heritage tomatoes, squid-ink linguini with Devon crabmeat, the catch of the day from Brixham market or a Wiltshire rack of lamb. To finish, tempting desserts include pineapple posset and classic tiramisu. La Terra’s menu is complemented by an extensive wine list covering all regions of Italy, as well as carefully sourced classic French and Spanish wines. The restaurant team takes pride in providing attentive, friendly service, creating a warm, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere for all guests.

Comptoir+Cuisine offers a relaxed dining experience in a cosy, French-inspired setting. The extensive and carefully curated wine list features over 30 wines by the glass and a rotating selection of more than 100 French wines. If you’re looking for expert guidance or simply some inspiration, speak to Pablo, Comptoir+Cuisine’s passionate and expert manager. A true wine enthusiast, Pablo is the creative force behind the bistro’s exceptional wine list – crafted especially for wine lovers. For both lunch and dinner, Comptoir+Cuisine’s tempting menu includes cheese and charcuterie boards, baked Camembert, and its latest addition – fondue, a deliciously social dish that’s perfect for sharing. There’s also a wide variety of tapas-style dishes served. From meat and fish to a generous selection of imaginative vegetarian options, each plate is prepared with originality and unmistakable French flair. The highly talented and inventive chef refreshes the menu with the seasons – at least twice a year – bringing exciting new flavours to the table. The bistro’s warm and welcoming team is on hand to make every visit truly memorable. This is a popular and lovely little bistro where you can experience a little slice of France in the heart of Bath.

PINTXO DE BATH 31 Barton Street, Bath BA1 1HG Tel: 01225 463861 Web: pintxobath.co.uk Pintxo de Bath is an authentically Basque-style tapas and sherry bar in the heart of Bath’s theatre district, tucked away in Barton Street. Pintxo brings a taste of Spain to the city. With a laid-back feel, outside tables and a delightfully sunny sherry garden, it’s the perfect place to spend time with friends, sampling the best sherries, wines and food from the owners’ favourite parts of Spain. Working with a local importer, Pintxo has a selection of the perfect wines and sherries to complement great tapas. And if you love sherry there’s a dedicated sherry menu. There are no reservations, just turn up and the friendly staff will do their best to seat you.

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THE IVY BATH BRASSERIE 39 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DS Tel: 01225 307100 Web: theivybathbrasserie.com The Ivy Bath Brasserie, located within the heart of the city, offers sophisticated and friendly all-day dining to both residents and visitors alike. Situated on the popular Milsom Street, close to many of the town’s most famous destinations and iconic landmarks, The Ivy Bath Brasserie occupies a beautiful Georgian building with striking high ceilings and original features of the historic banking hall, with the bar and interiors designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. Open seven days a week, there’s an all-day menu, serving modern British classics, including breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, light snacks, dinner and cocktails. The Ivy Bath Brasserie is accessible and relaxed, and alongside the main restaurant and bar, the venue features a private dining room, as well as a beautiful al fresco terrace.

WOODS RESTAURANT 9–13 Alfred Street, Bath BA1 2QX Tel: 01225 314812 Web: woodsrestaurant.com Established in 1979 by David and Claude Price, Woods is a truly family-run business, with Stuart Ash, head chef for 35 years, working alongside Gaston Price, who runs front of house, and sonin-law Joe Pothecary as sous chef. Enjoy modern British cooking with a classic French influence, using local ingredients and a seasonal menu, all in a warm, informal Georgian setting. Whether it’s a glass on the terrace, dinner in the main dining room or a celebration in the private room, Woods is a firm favourite with locals and a must for visitors to Bath. Be sure to check out their events page online.

SARTHI 88 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BD Tel: 01225 462992 email: sarthirestaurantbath@gmail.com Sarthi takes you on a journey of authentic flavours, where every meal tells a story of India. Located in the Old Church, Bath, Sarthi brings together vibrant Indian tastes with a modern, authentic Indian menu. Its menu celebrates traditional recipes crafted with fresh, locally sourced ingredients and a passion for wholesome food. From fragrant curries to crisp dosas and sizzling street snacks, every dish reflects the restaurant’s love for flavour and authenticity. Whether vegetarian or exploring plant-based dining, enjoy a warm welcome. Sarthi is dog-friendly and offer private dining options for special occasions, celebrations, and intimate gatherings.

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EMBERWOOD No. 5 Queen Square, Bath, BA1 2HH Tel: 01225 473351 Web: emberwoodbath.com Located in the Francis Hotel on Queen Square, Emberwood is Bath’s most talked about and loved dining experience that brings together seasonal ingredients, local provenance, and a passion for honest cooking. Celebrating modern British cuisine with bold, smoky flavours, every dish is a reflection of Emberwood’s pride in Bath. You’ll taste it in the ingredients sourced from local farmers, in the dishes crafted over their open hearth, and in the cocktails inspired by the city’s rich cultural scene. And just like any true Bathonian, they believe in a warm welcome. So no matter how long you’re here for, settle into a seat by the fire and enjoy.

PLATE AT THE BIRD 18-19 Pulteney Road, Bath BA2 4EZ Tel: 01225 580438 Web: thebirdbath.co.uk PLATE is a vibrant, community-focused restaurant that serves up delicious, ethically sourced dishes. Sustainability is at the heart of everything they do, and the team takes pride in supporting local farmers and fishermen. The menu features locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, ensuring a fresh and unforgettable dining experience. Guests can expect classic dishes with a mischievous twist, all crafted to challenge their taste buds. PLATE's commitment to sustainability and community makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking a sophisticated dining experience that is both delicious and planet-friendly.

ROBUN 4 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Tel: 01225 614424 Web: robun.co.uk Robun is a celebration of authentic Japanese food and drink, specialising in a modern take on Yakiniku – the art of grilling meat, seafood and vegetables over a traditional charcoal fire. From delicate sashimi and perfectly grilled wagyu beef, to artisanal sushi rolls and exquisitely presented small plates, each dish is meticulously crafted using only the freshest and finest ingredients. There’s also an extensive selection of premium sake, Japanese whisky, and cocktails on offer, handpicked to complement the cuisine. For something special, Robun’s Afternoon Tea swaps sandwiches for sushi and scones for bao buns.

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BANDOOK 3-7 Shires Yard, Bath BA1 1BZ Tel: 01225 300600 Web: bandookkitchen.com Perched in Shires Yard, just off Milsom Street in central Bath, Bandook offers an oasis of superb Indian street-food and hospitality. The story began when the owners had a vision to create a modern, casual dining, Indian restaurant, inspired by the street food of Delhi and Mumbai and one that would be fun and relaxed, yet create a ‘wow’ factor with its cooking. Bandook is the perfect off-the-beaten-track spot to dine and enjoy drinks in a stylish interior inspired by the colonial era. As well as the great food, keep an eye out for the special jazz nights, bottomless brunches at weekends, breakfasts and much more. This is a vibrant, fun, and really great place to enjoy excellent Indian food... so much so that they have even opened a new site in Cheltenham!

BECKFORD CANTEEN 11-12 Bartlett Street, Bath BA1 2QZ Tel: 01225 338470 Web: beckfordcanteen.com Set in a former Georgian greenhouse, with a pretty garden, Beckford Canteen is a space for people to come together and share the joys of delicious food and great hospitality. Sitting on bustling Bartlett Street, in one of the prettiest parts of Bath, the restaurant offers a light and airy space bedecked with banquettes, leather-clad dining chairs and window countertops to watch the world go by. Having received a rave review from Giles Coren in The Times, (and so many more since) Beckford Canteen is the perfect stop for a quick, tasty bite or a longer, more indulgent dining experience.

LE CHEF PRIVÉ Email: info@lechefprive.co.uk Web: lechefprive.co.uk Since retiring from the well-loved restaurant Casanis, chef Laurent Couvreur offers personal services for special occasions. From cheffing on board Northabout in the Arctic for adventurer David Hempleman-Adams to recreating favourite restaurant dishes in local homes, Laurent uses wonderful local produce to recreate his southern French style of cooking with a twist. Le Chef Privé takes all the stress out of your dinner parties, presenting awardwinning restaurant-quality food in the comfort of your own home. Chef Laurent shares a note from one of his customers: “Thank you for a truly wonderful evening, I cannot imagine a better way to have celebrated my birthday. The food was (unsurprisingly) marvellous and the entire evening flowed beautifully, from canapés to dessert. All our guests have expressed their delight at the dinner.” He adds, “We look forward to bringing incredible flavours and a ray of French sunshine to our diners’ homes.”

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OSTERIA PARTENOPEA 2a Upper Borough Walls, Bath, BA1 1RZ Tel: 01225 462276 Web: osteriapartenopea.co.uk Newly opened in the heart of Bath, Osteria Partenopea brings the warmth, flavours and generous spirit of Naples to Upper Borough Walls. Led by Neapolitan-born restaurateurs Valeria Casolaro and Costantino Turco, this family-inspired venture celebrates time-honoured recipes, exceptional Italian produce and the best seasonal ingredients from closer to home. Expect everything from paccheri fritti and scialatielli with seafood to slow-cooked Neapolitan ragù, grilled fish and meats, vibrant starters and homemade desserts, including tiramisu. Classic aperitivi set the tone, while an extensive Italian wine list and contemporary takes on cocktails keep the drinks flowing. Open seven days a week for lunch, dinner and afternoon tea with an Italian twist, Osteria Partenopea also has a tucked-away courtyard terrace – a hidden oasis for lingering over lunch or an aperitivo in the heart of the city.

CÔTE BRASSERIE 27 Shires Yard, Bath BA1 1BZ Tel: 01225 335509 Web: cote.co.uk Whether you want to enjoy a tasty treat before a show or celebrate a special occasion in style, you can’t beat the ambience and authentic French cuisine on offer at Côte Brasserie in Bath. With something to cater to all tastes, including vegetarian, gluten-free and children’s menus, Côte has something for all the family, whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner. Their lunch and early evening menu is available Monday – Friday until 7pm, and for three courses it is the perfect mid-week or pre-show option. This national chain is always a popular choice and the Bath restaurant is an excellent representation of the Côte group.

OAK 2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX Tel: 01225 446059 Web: oakrestaurant.co.uk Oak restaurant is an independent vegetarian restaurant in the heart of Bath’s historic Abbey quarter. Oak focuses on local seasonal cooking with a menu that is ever changing in response to what is available from local suppliers and their garden. As growers, grocers and cooks they sell, produce and serve food that is simple and thoughtful, with vegetables that not only look and taste great, but also come from land that has been farmed properly, without chemicals or overcultivation. The wine list is made of natural wines that tell a story, from growers that use low-intervention methods. Oak serves lunch and dinner seven days a week.

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ROOTSPICE 15 Argyle Street, Bathwick, Bath BA2 4BQ Tel: 01225 698127 Web: rootspice.co.uk RootSpice offers a fine Indian dining experience, bringing the vibrant flavours of Indian cuisine to life. Founded with a passion for authentic cooking, the restaurant’s journey began with a simple goal: to share India’s rich culinary heritage. Under head chef Soyful, the chefs craft each dish using the freshest ingredients and traditional spices. The progressive menu includes starters like Baati Scallops and Root Spice Mixed Platter, curries like Lamb Rogan Josh, signature dishes such as Chicken Musslam, vegan options like Vegetable Bhuna, and desserts like Saffron or Pistachio Kulfi. RootSpice believes dining is about creating memories, offering a warm atmosphere and exceptional service for every occasion.

THE PIG NEAR BATH Hunstrete House, Hunstrete, Pensford, Bath BS39 4NS Tel: 01761 490490 Web: thepighotel.com THE PIG-near Bath is a buzzing restaurant with rooms – with the Kitchen Garden at its heart – nestled between Bath and Bristol on the edge of the village of Hunstrete. With a serious commitment to the community and surrounding area, THE PIG-near Bath celebrates all things Somerset. The food is driven by home grown clarity of flavour, true to the seasons and influenced by location. The Garden and Kitchen teams work hand-in-hand to create the restaurant’s 25-mile menu, which is supported by passionate local farmers and small producers, who supply anything that the team cannot grow or produce themselves. This commitment not only supports their local suppliers, but means they can be 100% honest on the provenance of their ingredients.

BRASSERIE BEAU AT HOTEL INDIGO BATH Hotel Indigo Bath, 2-8 South Parade, Bath BA2 4AB Tel: 01225 460441 Web: brasseriebeau.co.uk Situated on South Parade – a welcome escape from the bustling city centre, Brasserie Beau adheres to one primary ethos: only the finest of British and French food makes it onto its plates. Stepping into this culinary haven, you’ll find yourself enveloped in beautiful surroundings – a grand Grade I listed Georgian building that hums with lively conversation and tantalising aromas. Here, simplicity meets sophistication. Brasserie Beau’s menus take inspiration from French cuisine using seasonal, local ingredients, ensuring that every dish bursts with flavours. Whether you crave a leisurely brunch, a quality steak, or a classic Sunday roast, a friendly and knowledgeable team awaits. And let’s not forget the extensive wine list and the allure of the Brasserie’s cocktail bar and terrace. Open seven days a week, the restaurant can cater for all occasions, offering private dining, standing drinks and canapé receptions, afternoon teas and more.

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HISTORY

The Gothic Girls of Bath On a chilly, dark night in November Jenny McAuley explores some of Bath’s most influential writers of the last 200 years... Meet the Gothic Girls; Ann Radcliffe, Sophia Lee, Mary Shelley, Jane Austen and Angela Carter

n December 1817, Jane Austen’s famous parody of the Gothic novel, Northanger Abbey, was published. Appearing six months after the author’s death in July, it affectionately mocked the melodramatic conventions of the Gothic romances of her youth. Like Austen’s last completed novel Persuasion (with which it was simultaneously published), Northanger Abbey also evoked the streets and social life of Bath as experienced by Austen while visiting in 1799, and living here between 1801 and 1806. It’s only when Austen’s teenage heroine Catherine Morland leaves the polite Assembly Rooms and bustling shops of 1790s Bath for mysterious Northanger Abbey that she begins to imagine her Gothic fantasies, fuelled by the sensational fictions of Ann Radcliffe, might be coming true. But Bath is steeped in Gothic histories of its own. Although its harmonious neo-classical architecture and its fame as a health spa, may not immediately suggest the uncanny, Bath has been home to some of the most iconic and influential English women writers of Gothic fiction. For the fictional heroine Catherine Morland, Milsom Street is a significant location because it is where the object of her affections, witty Henry Tilney, is lodging. As a fan of Ann Radcliffe’s phenomenally successful novel The Mysteries of Udolpho (1794), however, Catherine might have been still more interested in Milsom Street had she known of its associations with Radcliffe – whose

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parents, William and Ann Ward, ran a showroom there for the porcelain-makers Josiah Wedgwood and Thomas Bentley. Having begun work at the first Wedgwood showroom in Bath (at Westgate Buildings) in 1772, William Ward relocated it to 22 Milsom Street in 1779. Although the young Ann Ward appears to have spent much of her childhood in the household of Wedgwood’s business partner Thomas Bentley (her mother’s brother-in-law) near London, she was certainly residing at Bath at the time of her marriage to the London journalist William Radcliffe, whose radical political views she shared. Their wedding took place at St Michael’s Without Church, Broad Street on 15 January 1787, when Ann was aged 23. Ann Radcliffe perfected a formula that characterised a specifically female strand of the literary Gothic for decades to come. The ‘female Gothic’ focused upon distressed heroines trapped in sinister castles or abbeys, which represented the constraints placed upon women’s lives under the patriarchal laws of 18th- and 19th-century Britain. Radcliffe herself learned from earlier authors such as Sophia Lee, another Bath resident. The daughter of actors, Lee established a prestigious (and profitable) girls’ school on Lansdown Road along with her sisters Harriet, Charlotte and Anna in 1781 – initially funding the enterprise with proceeds from her dramatic writing. By 1786, the sisters had resettled their school at the larger Lansdown Road premises of Belvedere House.

IMAGES: via Wikicommons, Alamy

Gothic writers, Mary Shelley (image, Richard Rothwell), Ann Radcliffe and Sophia Lee, (image by engraver William Ridley, after Thomas Lawrence) and Angela Carter

IMAGE: An early book frontispiece of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein by Theodore Von Holst (1810 – 1844), Tate Britain. Private collection, Bath

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ANN RADCLIFFE’S THE MYSTERIES OF UDOLPHO

“ I have read all Mrs. Radcliffe’s works, and most of them with great pleasure. The Mysteries of Udolpho, when I had once begun it, I could not lay down again; I remember finishing it in two days my hair standing on end the whole time.” – NORTHANGER ABBEY, JANE AUSTEN –

Sophia Lee’s 1784 romance The Recess, about the fictional adventures of two equally fictional daughters of Mary, Queen of Scots, is wildly far-fetched and over-sentimental to modern tastes. It nevertheless significantly influenced the development of historical fiction in England – while featuring such defining Gothic hallmarks as dark, imposing architecture (the action of The Recess opens with the heroines secretly confined in a system of underground chambers, beneath a ruined monastery). When Sophia Lee died in 1824, her obituary in the Gentleman’s Magazine mentioned that she had been acquainted in Bath with the young Ann Radcliffe (‘Miss Ward’), adding that Radcliffe was an admirer of The Recess. Radcliffe biographers have doubted later claims that she attended Lee’s school, as she was already aged 17 when it opened; though it did admit young women up to about age 19 as ‘parlour boarders’, for training in etiquette and fashionable accomplishments. Twenty years on from Radcliffe’s 1790s heyday, another young woman writer made Bath her base as she drafted perhaps the most famous of all female-authored Gothic novels: Frankenstein (1818). As her journal precisely records, 19-year-old Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley lived in Bath between 10 September 1816 and 26 January 1817, settling first at 5 Abbey Churchyard (which no longer exists). She travelled there with her unmarried stepsister Claire Clairmont,

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who was then pregnant by English Romantic poet and politician Lord Byron. When Mary Shelley arrived in Bath, she was still Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin, daughter of radical authors William Godwin and his first wife Mary Wollstonecraft (who had died within days of Mary Shelley’s birth in 1797). Her marriage to poet Percy Bysshe Shelley, her lover of two years, took place on 30 December 1816, following the suicide earlier that month of Shelley’s first wife, Harriet Westbrook. This event had followed the suicide two months previously of Mary’s 21-year-old maternal halfsister, Frances Imlay, Mary Wollstonecraft’s daughter by American speculator Gilbert Imlay. Wollstonecraft herself was first employed as a lady’s companion on Milsom Street, near the Wedgwood showroom run by Radcliffe’s parents, during 1779–80. After Wollstonecraft’s death, Godwin also visited Bath in 1798, during his unsuccessful courtship of Sophia Lee’s sister and fellow author Harriet Lee. Mary Shelley’s work on Frankenstein in Bath formed part of a routine of writing, reading, drawing, and caring for her year-old son, William, steadily maintained despite the traumatic events of that autumn. She recorded her progress in letters to Shelley, frequently absent from her on business in London. On 5 December 1816, she reported having just completed the fourth chapter of Frankenstein – in which the monstrous creature comes to life on ‘a dreary night of November’. In the darkest days of winter there’s still a macabre thrill to be had from reading Mary Shelley’s tale of the creature: ‘By the glimmer of the half-extinguished light, I saw the dull, yellow eye of the creature open; it breathed hard and a convulsive motion agitated its limbs . . . I rushed out of the room.’ Bath’s Gothic echo continues down through the years. In the 20th century, it was while living on Hay Hill just off the Paragon, between 1973 and 1976 that Angela Carter began the dark fairy tales collected in The Bloody Chamber (1979), which updated the ‘female Gothic’ tradition of exposing patriarchal abuses. Carter was particularly alert to Bath’s eerie aspects. In her 1975 essay Bath, Heritage City, she noted the Anglo-Saxons’ superstitious fear of the site, with its crumbling Roman ruins and mysteriously heated waters. Carter herself loved the ‘haunting silences’ of 1970s Bath, and its lingering atmosphere of faded Regency glamour – and perhaps even in today’s larger, livelier city, a hint of the Gothic spirit that has inspired so many great authors might still occasionally be felt, as the nights draw in. 

Written in Bath Dark, subversive and richly imaginative, Angela Carter’s The Bloody Chamber (1979) reimagines familiar fairy tales through a distinctly Gothic lens. Begun during her years in Bath, this remarkable collection remains a landmark of modern fiction Pictured: First-edition cover, published by Victor Gollancz in 1979, with dust-jacket artwork by Malcolm Ashman.

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Books on Bath Bath has been the subject of a great many books over the years – here are four of the best for those wanting to discover the authentic pulse of the city ROMAN BATH: A NEW HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY OF AQUAE SULIS, PETER DAVENPORT (THE HISTORY PRESS, £20) For almost 300 years, excavations have gradually revealed the remarkable history of Roman Bath. Initially, discoveries were rare, often made by chance and seldom recorded. From the 1860s, more systematic investigations began, with professional methods bringing much of the Roman Baths to light. Interest accelerated from the 1950s, as professionals and amateurs collaborated, uncovering new evidence of the city’s ancient past. Since the 1990s, archaeological investigations have continued almost every year, shedding fresh light on Aquae Sulis and its citizens. Peter Davenport, who has been involved in archaeological work in Bath since 1980, draws together three centuries of discoveries in this fascinating and authoritative account of the city’s Roman heritage.

MURDER ON THE ROYAL CRESCENT HARRIET F. TOWNSON (VIKING, £16.99) Christmas in Georgian Bath takes a murderous turn in this historical cosy mystery from Harriet F. Townson. Against a backdrop of elegant townhouses, festive gatherings and the city’s fashionable society, Murder on the Royal Crescent promises a seasonal blend of intrigue, secrets and suspense. An atmospheric read for lovers of historical mysteries, with Bath’s celebrated architecture providing the perfect setting for a little festive foul play.

JANE AUSTEN IN BATH: WALKING TOURS OF THE WRITER’S CITY, KATHARINE REEVE (THE LITTLE BOOKROOM, £12.99) Back in 1900, Austen devotee Lord Iddesleigh asked: ‘Should we ever grow weary of reading and writing about her?’ The answer is an emphatic ‘no’, especially when presented with a book as good as this. We see Bath as Jane Austen knew it, as a young visitor, a resident and finally a writer. This beautifully illustrated guidebook thoughtfully weaves together the story of Jane Austen’s life in Bath with the stories of the unforgettable characters in her novels. The delightful walks are mapped out to take readers to Bath’s unique crescents, to its verdant pleasure gardens and ancient Roman spas, and to the majestic Pump Room and Assembly Rooms, where Austen’s heroines might have made their debuts. SOMETIMES IN BATH, CHARLES NEVIN

(THE BOOK GUILD PUBLISHING, £8.99) Sometimes in Bath is a warm and witty story-tour through the city’s history, conducted by award-winning journalist, author and humourist Charles Nevin. Many of Bath’s muchloved historical figures spring to life in episodes shimmering with the curious magic of the enchanted city. Blending colourful characters, intriguing encounters and a playful sense of history, Nevin offers a fresh and entertaining perspective on familiar places. Each story has an afterword distinguishing fiction from fact, adding enthralling historical detail and giving visitors useful links to Bath’s many fascinations.

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CITY HISTORY

Saturnalia & the Romans

What have the Romans ever done for us? Georgette McCready takes a look at the ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia and finds links with modern-day Christmas festivities

n Monty Python’s Life of Brian there’s a scene where John Cleese, Eric Idle and Michael Palin are complaining about their Roman occupiers and John Cleese’s character asks a rhetorical question: “What have the Romans ever done for us?” In reply the other revolutionaries begin a long list of advantages the Romans have brought to Judea and Cleese typically agrees: “Okay, apart from sanitation, the medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, a fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us?” The one thing they might’ve added to the ever-growing list of benefits is ‘the Christmas spirit’ because there are so many links between the way the ancient Romans celebrated Saturnalia and how we enjoy the Christmas period today. Boy, did those Romans know how to party! Their Saturnalia was a week-long period of over-indulgence where workplaces such as courts shut, people gave each other presents and there was a good deal of debauched behaviour as a result of excess alcohol. There was even dancing in the streets. And as we prepare for our own Christmases, this does sound familiar. As the Roman Empire settled down after years of fighting tribes in Britain, Bath was a settlement where the Romans enjoyed peaceful times and were able to celebrate their own culture. By around 70AD the Romans had built a temple on the site of the natural hot water springs here in the south west of Britain before building the impressive complex of baths that we’re lucky enough to see today. In a tactful gesture to their British neighbours, who had originally built their shrine by the spring and dedicated it to Sulis, their goddess of healing, the Romans named their baths The Waters of Sulis, or Aquae Sulis. Religion was an important aspect of Roman culture but they cunningly made sure that having a good time was built into the worship of their gods. The Roman calendar is full of festivals and holidays – at least one for every month of the year – and it’s here that we find some intriguing parallels with our modern-day Christmas celebrations. Many cultures mark the darkest days of winter by bringing family and friends together for feasting, lighting fires and banishing the cold and the Romans were no exception. Saturnalia was a hugely popular mid-winter festival which took place over a week between 17 and 23 December. During this holiday period it was traditional for wealthy people to give their slaves and servants presents and time off. They quite often swapped clothes with their servants and waited on them, reversing roles even for a brief time. It was customary to bring berries and greenery into the house as a tribute to Saturn, the god of agriculture, and gifts often took the form of small statuettes or

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ornaments, which were hung in the greenery – decking the halls with boughs of holly. And then there were the banquets... In her book Taste: The Story of Britain Through Its Cooking, Kate Colquhoun explains how Roman food and dishes would have been such a revelation to the indigenous British people. This would have been the equivalent of the 1960s in the UK when most people had a bland diet which did not include ginger, garlic or chilli and they were suddenly introduced to the highly flavoured cuisine of curries and Chinese dishes. While the British in pre-Christian times cooked with butter, milk and ale, the Romans used olive oil and wine. They brought with them their secret recipes for a pungent, dark, salty fish sauce which they used to flavour their dishes. It was said that a soldier who had been stuck on distant outposts guarding the Roman Empire used to stand in the British rain or mists dreaming of the tasty fish relish of home. If you were invited to a Saturnalian feast in Bath what might you expect? The diners would eat lounging on couches, the most important guests nearest to the host. And dishes were announced before being brought to the table, served in a series of courses as we do now. The food would have been an expression of the host’s wealth and they prided themselves on beautiful glassware and decorative bowls. We might recognise a sort of early pasta and we would almost certainly enjoy the fresh breads made from oats, rye, wheat or barley, although we might find a sausage stuffed with a mixture of meat and fish rather odd. The Romans brought many innovations to Bath. They roasted meat in ovens and liked to keep their food hot as it was brought to table. In the kitchens they introduced the three-legged metal cauldron, ladles and spatulas. They enjoyed watercress, lettuce, bacon and beans and their range of herbs and spices, including fennel, dill and aniseed must have been a shot of flavour for their British guests. The Romans were farmers as well as warriors. They fenced in wild deer for venison meat and kept wild ducks which they domesticated for food. There was also the habit of keeping dormice in pottery vessels where they were fattened up on chestnuts and acorns, before being roasted for the feast. One of history’s earliest recipe books was written by a Roman gourmet Apicius. One recipe begins: ‘take and pluck a flamingo’ and ends ‘the same recipe can be used for parrot.’ It’s unlikely that cooks in Bath could get their hands on either of these birds, but we do know that grapes were grown for wine in terraces on the sunny slopes of Walcot, where the name Vineyards on the Paragon remains as a reminder of that time.

IMAGE: Saturnalia by Antoine Callet, source: Wikicommons, public domain.

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Our Saturnalian celebrants would finish their convivium (another name for a dinner party) with puddings sweetened with honey. Some guests would have brought napkins to wipe their greasy fingers but it was perfectly acceptable for guests to run their fingers through the serving boys’ hair to clean them for the next course. Throughout the meal wine would have been served and in wealthier households there would have been entertainment between courses in the form of short theatrical scenes, juggling, singing or poetry. And at the end of the feast everyone would enjoy the chance to gossip over more wine, or to play backgammon, dice or draughts. The Romans were happy with nudity, they were at ease naked in the baths, where business and pleasure were conducted with flesh on show. They were also relaxed about sex and the festivities of

Saturnalia saw some debauched behaviour take place, much as it can today when Christmas parties get out of hand and the mistletoe and red wine loosen inhibitions. Who knows what stories the walls of the Roman Baths would tell if they could talk. As always, every good party has to come to an end. As Christianity gained influence across the Roman Empire, Saturnalia with its orgies and louche behaviour increasingly jarred with Christian values. The old midwinter festivities gradually gave way to new traditions, although the appetite for feasting, merrymaking and a little seasonal excess proved rather harder to suppress. However, the spark of those festive good times remains buried in our collective subconscious and we’re quite sure the Romans of ancient Bath would have approved of our 21st-century funfilled holiday. Happy Saturnalia!  POSTCARD from BATH / 135

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POSTCARDS

Theatre Royal Bath For more than two centuries, Theatre Royal Bath has played a starring role in the city’s cultural life. Melissa Blease looks back at the dramatic history of one of Britain’s oldest working theatres. and take a trip ‘backstage’ to see the original scenery loft. Thanks to an illustrious roll-call of project shareholders including George III’s eldest son, George, HRH the Prince of Wales, the cornerstone for the new theatre was laid in December 1804, and the theatre opened to the public on 12 October the following year with a production of Shakespeare’s Richard III. While not immediately successful, the New Theatre Royal’s popularity grew as it hosted visits from leading actors including Edmund Kean, Dorothea Jordan, William Macready and Joseph Grimaldi in entertainment from serious dramas to pantomime by way of operas, thrillers and comedies. Around 1820, at-home suppers, travelling circuses and pleasure gardens were increasingly dominating social calendars, while social and political reform was threatening economic stability. Meanwhile, poor ticket sales were compounded by rising fees for actors. As the 19th century progressed, the theatre fell into a period of decline – and then, on 18 April 1862, the theatre was destroyed by a fire. However, a lavish, ornate phoenix was set to rise. On 7 May, a limited company to rebuild the New Theatre Royal was formed. Bath-based architect C. J. Phipps redesigned it, and he added an Italianate, three-bay arcaded entrance on Sawclose. The fully refurbished theatre opened on 3 March 1863, with Charles Kean and Ellen Terry headlining in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. But despite performances by theatre superstars including Sybil Thorndike, John Gielgud, Sarah

TRB appearances: Toby Stephens in Equus, Tracy-Ann Oberman in Present Laughter and Ralph Fiennes, who recently performed in and directed a season of plays at the TRB.

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Image credits: left, Martin Dysart; centre, Faye Thomas; right, Hugo Glendinning

t would be easy to imagine that it’s a small theatre, but beyond the glittering facade there’s a lot of drama. A 900capacity auditorium featuring four plush boxes, a trompe-l’œil ceiling and a glittering chandelier are at the heart of the action. The theatre’s complex is also home to a dedicated young people’s theatre, an innovative studio theatre, a suite of elegant function rooms, several bars, a stand-alone pub... and a resident ghost. But as is generally the case with all the best theatrical productions, there’s an interesting backstory. In 1747, Bristol-based actor John Hippisley published proposals for the building of a new theatre in Bath that would rival the theatres in the capital. He opened the Orchard Street Theatre – the original Theatre Royal – in October 1750 with a performance of Shakespeare’s Henry IV, Part II. The theatre was so successful that in 1768 a special act of Parliament granted Hippisley’s initiative the illustrious Royal Patent. As popular as the theatre was, its location didn’t do it any favours. As Bath’s population grew, the city’s cultural cognoscenti began to migrate north-west, and the area around Orchard Street became unfashionable. So, in 1804, construction of the New Theatre Royal on Beaufort Street was announced, and in 1805 the Orchard Street Theatre closed its doors. Today, the old building is a Masonic Hall. Take a tour there, and you can stand on the stage where Sarah Siddons – the celebrated 18th-century tragedienne – received the adulation of her audiences

Image: James Arthur Allen & Stephen Vaughan

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Bernhardt, Irene Vanbrugh and ballerina Anna Pavlova, audiences declined and the theatre still struggled to make a profit; for several decades, the New Theatre Royal Bath was little more than a dusty, dilapidated provincial theatre. In March 1979 philanthropic entrepreneur Jeremy Fry purchased the theatre on behalf of a trust. In 1980, an appeal was launched to renovate the whole site, including the rebuilding and modernisation of backstage systems to allow major touring companies to be booked. Financial support came from supporters including the Arts Council England, the Bath Preservation Trust, the city council and many individuals, and later loans were negotiated. On 30 November 1982, the theatre reopened, with another performance of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream featuring a cast from the National Theatre... and HRH Princess Margaret in the audience. Fry had saved the theatre from virtual collapse. In 1997, a 126-seat studio theatre was built at the rear of the Theatre Royal on Monmouth Street, named in honour of the actor Peter Ustinov, who led the fundraising programme. In 2005, a major refurbishment transformed the former cinema and church hall occupying the corner between the theatre’s Main House and the Ustinov on St John’s Place. The Egg Theatre was hatched: a unique, innovative venue for children’s, young people’s and family theatre with a 120-seat auditorium, family-friendly café, workshops and rooftop rehearsal studios. Today, The Egg is a nationally recognised hub for outreach work with young people, schools and colleges.

In 2009, another major refurbishment appeal was launched by the TRB’s Patron, Her Majesty The Queen, then Duchess of Cornwall. The foyer was expanded, the décor was given a facelift and the theatre’s bars were refurbished to include the Jeremy Fry Bar. The reopening ceremony was performed on-stage by actors Penelope Keith and Peter Bowles, who were starring in the TRB’s own production of Richard Brinsley Sheridan’s The Rivals, which is set in and around 18th-century Bath, and served as a rather touching tribute to the origins of the theatre. This splendid theatre, which has repeatedly fought every adversity, has staunchly refused to allow the curtain to fall on it for good. Today it takes centre stage as the cornerstone of Bath’s contemporary cultural and social scene. And the story continues. In spring 2027, Theatre Royal Bath is set to open The Billings, a new 40-seat community studio on St John’s Place. Designed as an affordable, accessible space for local performers and emerging talent, it will become the fourth venue at the heart of the Theatre Royal site.

 Theatre Royal Bath, Sawclose, Bath BA1 1ET  For performances, information and to book tickets, contact the Box office: Tel: 01225 448844  For The Egg Theatre: Tel: 01225 823409  Web: theatreroyal.org.uk

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CITY HISTORY

Alas, poor Romeo So hilarious were his performances, Bath theatregoers queued to see him. Historian Catherine Pitt tells the story of a man considered to be the worst actor in history

ath, 1808 – genteel, sedate, elegant. The social season began unhindered, the glorious buzz of the Beau Nash years a faded memory. Into this calm stepped an exotic character, the self-styled Amateur of Fashion, a man who was soon to be considered “the worst actor in English theatrical history”. Allow me to introduce to you – Robert ‘Romeo’ Coates. Born in Antigua in 1772, Coates was the only surviving child of plantation owners. He was educated in England but returned to the West Indies after his parents refused to allow him to pursue a military career. When he wasn’t travelling, Coates would dabble in

CORRECTING SHAKESPEARE: Robert Coates told Theatre Royal manager William Wyatt Dimond that he’d improved Shakespeare’s original text

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amateur dramatics. After his father’s death in 1807, Robert rapidly headed for England, first to London and then to Bath. When Coates appeared on the peaceful city streets in 1808, few had seen his like before. Even in the period of Regency dandyism, his flamboyant appearance raised more than a few eyebrows. He wore vast furs in all weathers. In the evenings he would appear in the Pump Room and Assembly Rooms in a sky-blue coat, yellow breeches, a multi-coloured cravat and feathered hat. He embellished every element of his attire, from his shirt buttons to shoe buckles and walking cane, with hundreds of diamonds, gaining him the moniker of ‘Diamond’ Coates. To add to this, Coates chose to travel in a carriage of his own design: a two-wheeled chariot (known as a curricle) pulled along by two white horses. Atop the curricle was Coates’ mascot and motto – a crowing fighting cockerel, wings outstretched, and underneath the boast: “Whilst I live I’ll Crow”. Despite his noticeable presence in Bath, few knew who he was or where he was from; all they knew was that he must be a man of wealth to indulge in such eccentricities. There are conflicting views as to where exactly he lodged in Bath, but what is certain is that he could be found, daily, enjoying breakfast and lunch at York House on George Street, a large coaching inn, still a hotel today. Here he was approached by Pryse Gordon, the man who claimed to have introduced Coates to the Bath stage, after Gordon overheard him rehearsing passages from Shakespeare. Correcting Coates on a line, he was met with the words, “Aye, that is the reading I know... but I think I have improved upon it.” Gordon discovered Coates’ passion for Shakespeare and for amateur dramatics. Currying favour with this wealthy eccentric, Gordon offered to introduce Coates to the manager of the Theatre Royal, William Wyatt Dimond. Coates declared that he was “ready and willing to play Romeo to a Bath audience.” Dimond was unwilling to risk the theatre’s reputation on an unknown, but after reassurance from Gordon that seats would be filled and probably some financial reassurance from Coates, Dimond agreed. Playbills were plastered around the city announcing that on 8 February 1809 a new production of Romeo and Juliet was opening and that the male lead was to be played by “an amateur actor from the fashionable world”. As word spread of Coates’ acting debut, seats began to fill up fast. On the evening of the production the Theatre Royal was packed with curious Bathonians, with many more turned away at the door. Inside the anticipation was palpable.

The Gay Lothario on stage

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On Coates’ entrance the audience were at first dumbfounded at the vision standing before them, described by an observer as “one of the most grotesque spectacles ever witnessed upon the stage”. Romeo wore “a spangled coat of sky-blue silk, crimson pantaloons,” diamond additions, plus a huge baroque wig. Balanced on top was a white-trimmed hat with plumes of ostrich feathers. Coates took a nervous bobbing bow, grinning away, and the audience burst into peals of laughter and roars of applause. Unfazed, Coates proceeded, though it was like no version of Shakespeare’s play ever seen before or since. Coates had a tendency to forget his lines, add his own where he thought Shakespeare needed improving and, at other moments, whisper entire sections to just one box in the theatre. During the famous balcony scene, Coates turned away from Juliet, pulled out his snuff box and took a pinch. As the public roared their approval he offered the snuff box to a number of ladies and gentlemen in the audience. Halfway through the play, during the rendition of an impassioned speech, the seams at the seat of his tight red breeches burst open to reveal a “quantity of white linen sufficient to make a Bourbon flag!” On appearing at the tomb of Juliet, Coates took out a silk handkerchief, laid it on the boards, put his hat down to act as a pillow and then went through a lengthy and, judging by his grimaces and groans, apparently agonising ‘death’ before carefully laying himself out on stage. Convulsed with laughter, members of the audience shouted out “Die Again, Romeo” and Coates obliged, not once but twice more. He was about to attempt a third when Juliet appeared from the wings and stopped him. Dimond hastily dropped the curtain,

finally bringing the play to an end. Meanwhile on stage Coates ran around, hanging off boxes, shouting “Haven’t I done well?” The jeers and heckles that Coates received made little impact on him. He was buoyed by what he considered his success in Bath, so much so that he decided to tour his production of Romeo and Juliet around the country, including playing the Haymarket Theatre in London. Although a subject of mockery and satirisation, Coates still considered himself just an amateur actor and did not take a wage. His reputation preceded him, so theatres were packed. Coates took no fee and requested that any profits go to charity. In December 1816 Coates headed to Bath, and the theatre where it had all begun, for the final act. Over three days he performed another of his favourite plays, The West Indian, but for the final public performance Coates chose Romeo and Juliet. It was said by audience members that he was much improved. As before, Coates was jeered, but this time he paused and declared that people could request their money back if they were not happy, but that his intention was that the money from this play should go to the local Pierrepont Street Charity. Shamed into silence, a more reverent crowd allowed Coates to continue. After 1816, he gave occasional private performances for charity, but it was the last the public would see of ‘Romeo’ Coates. Dogged by debt collectors during the financial troubles of the 1830s, Coates took refuge in Boulogne for a few years where he was often spotted in his furs. His death, in February 1848, was as bizarre as his life had been – he was crushed between two carriages in London’s Covent Garden after a night at the opera. Alas, poor Romeo!  POSTCARD from BATH / 139

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... after earning the only standing ovation from judges Penn & Teller, she was immediately cast as a ‘Wizard Regular’ for the rest of the series.

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CONVERSATIONS

Every little thing she does is... Billy Kidd is a magician whose sleight of hand skills, stage shows and street magic have seen her perform in theatres and on television screens worldwide. Billy performs weekly at Bath’s Krowd Keepers Magic Theatre

IMAGE: Photography by Scott Chambers

enture to a secret, upstairs room in Bath’s Ale house Pub on a Friday or Saturday night and you’ll discover an intimate bar space that feels more speakeasy than stage show. In the dimly-lit room, a small audience has gathered to enjoy the world-class magician – Billy Kidd. A sleight-of-hand sorceress, comedy mischief-maker, and one of the very few women thriving in the still-maledominated world of magic, Billy’s performances are part theatre, part comedy and an added touch of danger. There are no rabbits being pulled from hats, but she does conjure up plenty of laughs from the captivated audience, and with her slightly risqué delivery, her performances can leave you wondering whether you’ve just been fooled, flirted with, or simply gobsmacked. Welcome to Krowd Keepers Magic Theatre – you will be entertained! Billy Kidd’s story begins a world away from Bath. Born in Canada to parents from Poland and the Philippines, she was immersed in performance almost before she could read. By the age of 11, she was working professionally as an actor, cutting her teeth in theatre, dance, music, and even stage combat. “I was lucky,” she reflects. “Acting was the only job I had until I found magic. Getting paid to play as a child was the best job I ever had.” “The first time I was introduced to magic I was in my midtwenties. I had never experienced the art-form before but it opened up a whole new world of performance for me. In fact it took over my life. When your hobby is all you think, dream, and breathe it eventually becomes you.” Acting, she admits, gave her a head start. “It wasn’t just about the tricks – it was about how to hold an audience, how to build tension, how to make them laugh”. Billy arrived in Bath in 2008; drawn by the city’s reputation as one of the UK’s most busker-friendly spots. She began performing on the city’s cobbled streets – fine tuning her craft in the most critical performance space of all – where audiences can either gather round and enjoy, or pass by, largely unimpressed. Those early busking days helped shape her, and Bath became the place where Billy Kidd the magician was born. Billy soon realised that magic alone wasn’t enough. “People would admire a clever trick, but it’s the laughter that makes the act complete”. So she began building her shows around comedy – fast, irreverent and wickedly enjoyable. “If the magic doesn’t blow their minds, at least they’ll be laughing,” It’s a method that works. Her shows aren’t just about mystery; they’re about fun and making mischief; and with her edgy banter she is more likely to tease the audience than ask for their applause.

From Bath to the Far East, West Coast USA and back to Europe, Billy’s career has taken her all around the world. She loves the unpredictability of being on tour, and recalls plenty of anecdotes – on and off stage – “After a show in Istanbul, a pack of eight dogs stalked me all the way back to my hotel. The next morning I woke up with baklava in my hair. I can only assume the two things are connected.” Billy divides her time equally between performing her stage shows in Bath with close-up magic at corporate events, festivals, cruise lines and with captivating audiences with her TV appearances here in the UK and networks across the world. Billy competed in Wizard Wars – a highly acclaimed TV show in the USA, and after earning the only standing ovation from judges Penn & Teller, she was immediately cast as a ‘Wizard Regular’ for the rest of the series. With the fame comes modesty and she’s the first to admit that the magician’s life isn’t all glamour. “The best part is the freedom. The chance to travel, to perform for all kinds of people. The lifestyle is incredible.” And the worst thing? The insecurity. “You never know when your next gig is. But even that’s part of the thrill.” Magic remains a male-dominated business. Billy is one of the very few women at the top of their game, but she refuses to let that define her. “The magic industry is dominated by men. I have no idea why women do not want to become magicians. I do believe that men are naturally drawn to things that women are not interested in. It is a mystery.” For her, the real rebellion isn’t being a woman in the industry – it’s refusing to be just ‘another’ magician. She doesn’t do tired, wornout tricks or clichéd, naff puns. “I try not to be like those stereotypes of magicians, finding my own voice is the only way I can properly express myself. Creating magic from my own experiences is far more satisfying than copying what everyone else is doing.” Her heroes in the craft read like a roll-call of magic's great rebels: Juan Tamariz, Vincent Gambini, Steve Valentine and Derren Brown – the ones who make magic an art rather than a gimmick. She admires their creativity and refusal to play it safe – qualities she insists are vital for any magician. “You have to be able to adapt, to connect, to be original. That’s the real magic.” Her audiences never quite know what they’re in for. One night it might be escapes, another, it’s mind-blowing sleight-of-hand and it’s always laced with the sharpest wit. And that, perhaps, is her greatest trick, and the reason why audiences keep coming back – No one performs magic like Billy Kidd.  Billy runs Krowd Keepers Magic Theatre every Friday and Saturday upstairs at the Ale House Pub, Terrace Walk, Bath. Website: krowdkeepers.com; billykiddshow.com POSTCARD from BATH / 141

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AFTER DARK

That’s Entertainment Bath transforms into an enchanting, grown-up playground when the sun goes down. Our very own bonne vivante Melissa Blease loves to put her party frock on and venture out after dark

ath is home to an abundance of restaurants, pubs and bars that are all too easy to lose yourself in until it’s time for bed. But as alluring as eating, drinking and being merry may be, there’s far more to the city’s nightlife scene to explore.

STARTER’S ORDERS • Vino Vino For Bathonians who like to keep an eye on who’s out-and-about in town, with whom, and why, wine and cocktail bar Vino Vino acts as a life-as-it-happens Bath gossip column HQ. Heated

parasols on the spacious terrace turn winter chills into a warm glow, while indoor tables adjacent to the big picture windows guarantee that you won’t miss a trick even when terrace tables are taken. Fine wine and cocktails are a speciality here and the fizz flows in abundance, while chic charcuterie and stylish sharing platters presented in picture-perfect portions fortify you for the evening’s entertainment ahead. • Find it on: Saw Close. Open until: midnight Monday, Tuesday and Thursday; 11.30pm Wednesday; 1am Friday–Saturday; 11pm Sunday • Green Park Brasserie There’s something unselfconsciously, comfortably cool about the whole affair; it’s a ‘welcome to the neighbourhood’ party and everybody’s invited. Under the glass canopy of the old Green Park Station, enjoy live music three nights a week, special offers on cocktails and great food. It’s the perfect place to start your evening – and you’ll probably want to stay longer. • greenparkbrasserie.com

HOT TICKETS • Komedia, Westgate Street Komedia is the city's first community-owned live entertainment venue, set in a restored Grade II listed cinema in the heart of Bath. Comedy, music, cabaret, talks, film and club nights all vie for attention on the programme which includes around 600 events per year, while the acclaimed Komedia Comedy Club puts the best comedians centre stage every Saturday night before neatly segueing into The Big Disco, which pumps up the dancefloor volume until the small hours. • komedia.co.uk • Chapel Arts Centre, Lower Borough Walls Bath’s leading alternative ‘not-for-profit’ grassroots arts venue plays host to a varied array of performance and visual arts events, including live music, theatre, dance, film and cabaret. The majority of events are seated cabaret (small round tables). The venue has excellent natural acoustics, a sprung dance floor and a well-stocked bar within the auditorium. • chapelarts.org

SHOWTIME AT KOMEDIA

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• The Forum, St James Parade Purpose-built as an art deco cinema in 1934, The Forum is Bath’s biggest venue and the third-largest seated auditorium in the southwest of England. The remarkable interiors represent typical art

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THE EVERYMAN CINEMA LOUNGE

COCKTAILS AT EMBERWOOD

deco-era splendour including lacquered wood fittings and goldleafed flourishes, while iconic green cinema seats offer a luxurious audience experience in the elegant auditorium. One-night-only special events pack The Forum’s schedule, including live music, tribute acts, brass bands, orchestras and ‘in conversation’ events with visiting celebrities. • bathforum.co.uk

Theatre Royal) opened its doors more than two centuries ago. The theatre offers the cream of the UK’s touring company crop, while the Ustinov Studio on Monmouth Street specialises in acclaimed programmes of world and UK premieres alongside small-scale touring productions, live comedy, music and dance. • theatreroyal.org.uk

• Little Theatre Cinema, St Michael’s Place

Proudly maintaining an independent vibe far removed from the commercial, multiplex behemoths, this trad-contempo cinema house flies the flag for the very best arthouse, cult and mainstream movies alongside regular special event screenings. Meanwhile, the lovely little (no pun intended) fully licensed refreshment kiosk negates the need for sneaking stinky takeaways and commercial confectionery wrapped in inconsiderate crackly plastic in under your coat. • picturehouses.com/cinema/The_Little • Everyman Cinema, SouthGate Centre

Located in the SouthGate centre, near Bath Spa Station, Everyman Bath offers a plush and swanky cinema experience. With four screens and a grand bar serving smart cocktails, you can also enjoy delicious burgers and sharing plates delivered directly to your cinema seat. What’s not to like? • everymancinema.com • Theatre Royal Bath and The Ustinov Studio, Saw Close The Theatre Royal Bath (not to be confused with Bath’s Old

• Krowd Keepers Magic Theatre

No rabbits, feather flowers, or top hats... yep, no cheap tricks. Venture upstairs to a secret room above the Alehouse Pub, where some of the world’s finest magicians perform and conjure up a unique and theatrical experience using the art of sleight of hand magic. Enjoy amazing trickery, absurd humour and cutting-edge sorcery in a truly unforgettable and unusual experience. • Find it above: The Ale House Pub, 1 York Street. Every Friday and Saturday night at 8pm, krowdkeepers.com

And after all that... SUPER-SMART LATE NIGHT COCKTAILS • The Dark Horse The deliciously devilish subterranean prohibition era-style speakeasy on leafy, historic Kingsmead Square casts a seductive spell over a bewitching cocktail menu, many created using locally sourced produce and ingredients including fruit and herbs foraged from the bountiful meadows nearby. Late night bar snacks available too. • Find it on: Kingsmead Square. Open until: 12.30am Monday-Thursday; 1am Friday-Saturday; 11.30pm Sunday darkhorsebar.co.uk POSTCARD from BATH / 143

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MAGICIAN BILLY KIDD AT KROWD KEEPERS

THE BAR AT MONTAGU’S MEWS

• Montagu’s Mews at the Royal Crescent Hotel Stylishly seductive and subtly convivial, Montagu’s Mews is an oasis of modern luxury. Relax in the elegantly modern bar or take a table on the heated, partially covered terrace in the hotel’s breathtakingly pretty garden and prepare to choose from the extensive cocktail menu, artisan botanicals, small-batch spirits and imaginatively curated wines and beers. • Find it on: The Royal Crescent (no.16). Opening times: see hotel website. royalcrescent.co.uk

• The Hideout The Hideout is a whisky den which takes its cue from the lawless thieves, highwaymen and opportunists who might have met there in the past. It was the perfect hideout. Since opening in 2016, it still has the feel of one of those ‘secret’ places you don’t want to share, with its cosy, vaulted feel, 300 odd whiskies on the shelf and a forward-thinking team with larger-than-life personalities and a fondness for hip-hop. Of course, you don’t have to be a whisky aficionado to love The Hideout, there are crazy good cocktails – that have earned it a place among the UK’s top cocktail bars – beers, ciders and top-notch wines to sip outside in the sunny courtyard too. • Find it on: Lilliput Court, off North Parade Passage. Open until: 11pm, seven nights a week

• Emberwood A well-considered ambience of understated glamour (subtle lighting; beautiful decor; bar staff who make you feel like they’ve been waiting to greet you, and only you, all day) combine to offer a seductively warm and sophisticated welcome at Emberwood. If you’re after that “make me feel like a million dollars” buzz, you’ve come to the right place. Located right in the heart of Bath, this opulent restaurant and sparkling bar is a cool oasis of city chicness serving expertly curated cocktails in style. • Find it at: The Francis Hotel Bath, 5 Queen Square. Open until: 11pm • The Bath Distillery Gin Bar The vibe throughout this quirky, intimate split-level gin lovers’ paradise – home to the Bath Gin Company – is thoroughly beguiling. The recipe for the company’s eponymous spirit was developed here, and is used as the basis for its signature cocktails alongside a massive range of contenders for the gin throne. If gin doesn’t make you grin, there are plenty more options. • Find it on: Queen Street. Open until: midnight, Monday–Saturday • The Old Q Bar at the Queensberry Hotel The Queensberry Hotel’s Old Q bar is one of Bath’s most subtly glamorous hidden gems and the cocktail list a connoisseur’s joy to behold – there are no budget blends or middling mixers sullying the alcohol-infused waters here, and if you can’t see exactly what you want on the list, expert mixologists are on hand to offer recommendations. The fizzbased specialities are fabulous, and the Manhattan is reputed to be the best in our non-stateside town. • Find it on: Russel Street. Open until: residential hotel hours

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• The Common Room One of Bath’s original late-night bars, The Common Room has been an institution on the city’s party scene since the 1960s. These days, it’s open from 5pm, six days a week (and 10pm on Sunday) and the retro glam surroundings are infused with a tiki vibe. Rum is a particular passion here, with over 100 variations on the pirate’s tipple of choice, alongside a fully vegan cocktail list, an extensive spirits selection, draught beers, cider, fine wines and more. There’s DJ action at weekends, life drawing on Wednesdays, with regular music nights showcasing local upand-coming bands. • Find it on: 2 Saville Row, Bath BA1 2QP. Open: 5pm–2am, Mon-Thurs; 5pm–3am Fri-Sat and 10pm–2am Sun

AND WHEN HUNGER STRIKES • Late night nibbles ‘Formal’ late night/early morning dining options are scarce in Bath. But if hunger strikes before bed time, grab yourself a tasty burger from local legend Schwartz Bros (Saw Close and Walcot Street), a cool kebab from Al Falafel (Monmouth Street), a Greek treat from Taka Taka (Broad Street), Jason’s City Grill (AKA ‘Jason’s Doner van’ on Orange Grove) – or even a carton of cheesy chips from Mr D’s Burger (found at St George’s Place on the Upper Bristol Road). Until you’ve ended an evening in Bath chowing down on one of the city’s original street-food fixes, you’ll never be a true Bathonian. Sweet dreams. 

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A great way to remember your stay in Bath... or help plan your next visit. If you would like to buy a copy of Postcard, we can send you one by post and we will even include the cost of the postage to any UK mainland address. You can order online via our website: postcardmagazine.co.uk or by calling our offices on +44 (0)1225 424 499 Priced at £15 per copy to any UK mainland address Add £10 per copy to any European address Add £20 per copy to any international zone 1 address Add £30 per copy to any international zone 2 address For postal zone information see: www.royalmail.com/international-zones

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Postcard from Bath Edition 12 – A/W 2026/27