Wine and sustainability

Tom Bleathman of The Great Wine Co. takes stock of how the need for sustainability is making itself felt in the world of vineyards and wine-making

There is no denying that climate change is impacting the world we live in –the UK experienced record overall temperatures in 2022 and many areas of Europe are currently experiencing the most intense winter heatwave in history. Sustainability is now at the forefront of our minds. For many, this may mean creating a waste-free lifestyle, eating less meat, or simply turning off the lights. These actions may have a small immediate impact, but to positively change the climate in the future more should be done. Individuals and businesses should be aiming to develop their needs to meet the present day, without compromising the planet for future generations. This should include implementing social responsibility schemes to ensure businesses are positively impacting and educating their employees and surrounding communities.

Like all plants, vines absorb CO2 and give out oxygen; consequently the wine industry should be capable of sustainability. Despite this, some elements of the industry may not be as environmentally friendly as you think, and improvements are always required. The heavy reliance of glass and shipping in the wine trade carries a hefty impact on the climate. There are also certain practices, largely associated with bulk-production, that can be environmentally damaging. These include boosting yields with synthetic fertilisers and high levels of water usage in regions where this is a scarce resource, as well as emissions from mechanical cultivation and harvesting.

By contrast, the price tag on finer wines helps pay for ‘dry farming’ (lower yields are often associated with higher quality), organic practices, hand-cultivation and harvesting, and an approach which benefits not only the natural environment, but also the local community. Thankfully, The Great Wine Company has a wide array of producers who make a conscious effort towards creating a progressive and sustainable culture, which benefits the land and the wider community. Here we highlight three producers and their sustainable practices, as well as wines of theirs you must try. greatwine.co.uk

Domaine Cazes, Ego £18.85

Pure and perfumed nose displaying floral hints of violet, blackberry, cherry, and a mild spiciness. The palate is dense yet fresh, digested and rounded with layers of floral dark fruit, and a long and pure finish.

Domaine Cazes in Languedoc-Roussillon, France, is an established family winery dating back to 1895. In 1997 the young Emmanuel Cazes took over the winemaking and within ten years, the entire estate had been converted to organic and biodynamic practice, gaining full certification in 2005. Pests aren’t a problem in this ecosystem –250 nesting boxes have been set up around the vineyards, which are home to bats and birds of prey that feed on insects harmful to the vine. This is now the largest organic and biodynamic certified winery in Europe, with Emmanuel regularly seen holding masterclasses on the benefits of organic and biodynamic practices.

Kleinood, Tamboerskloof Viognier, £22 Peach, floret and a lush mix of citrus show immense concentration right from the start. Both precise and dense, the scents and flavours flow through into a tightly wound rich finish, bright with citrus. The length and concentration are simply spectacular.

Environmental awareness is central to everything at Kleinood. The winery in Stellenbosch, South Africais a member of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI), uses ladybirds as natural pest controllers in the vineyard and has installed solar panels on the roof of the wine cellar to use renewable energies. The labels are made of recycled paper, printed with a wooden press, torn by hand and glued to the bottles. Social responsibility is also a priority for Kleinood –they built four three-bedroom houses for their employees to ensure they could live with their families. Although Kleinood owns the houses, the employees only pay electricity bills or nominal rent. Many of Kleinood’s employees’ children go to a local school called Webersgedenk Primary School; in 2014, Kleinood built an Arts and Culture Centre for the school. To date, over 1,000 children have benefited from this facility, which is repurposed for adult evening classes.

I was fortunate enough to visit Gramona in Catalonia, Spain, last year and their sustainability efforts were clear to see. They are an organic and biodynamic producer which use many sustainable practices, such as the use of water purifiers to recycle wastewater and the use of energies such as geothermal and solar power to maximise renewable energy usage. They also own horses which help plow the land in traditional methods as well as creating natural compost which they use across the vineyard. Everything is as sustainable as possible, even down to the bottle wrap which is vegetable based and 100% biodegradable. n

The Great Wine Co. has a ‘Planet Friendly’ section focusing on organic, biodynamic, sustainable and kind: greatwine.co.uk/ planet-friendly/

Gramona, Imperial Brut, £33

Complex aromas of apple and white peach, with notes of aniseed, fennel, freshly baked bread and a subtle hint of citrus peel. Beautifully balanced in the mouth, with hints of fine patisserie, roasted nuts, toast, yeast and a buttery character. Generous, full and creamy in texture, with velvety smooth bubbles.