KRON 4 News at

Embrace the tangy, salty balance of Filipino adobo

with this adaptable chicken or tofu recipe

G. Daniela Galarza

The WAshINgTON POsT

Ihad a lot of babysitters before I turned 12, women who would watch me and my brother after school, and sometimes make us dinner when my parents had to work late. Lina, who was born in Manila, was one of my favorites. Among other things, she instilled in me a love for the salty, lightly spiced tang of adobo.

Lina’s kitchen was tight, so when she started making dinner, I’d lean over the white Formica breakfast bar and watch her rummage through her crisper drawers and pantry, lining ingredients up between the sink and stove. Almost every meal would start with an onion, which she’d pass to me to peel as she started to prep. “every person is an onion,” she’d sometimes say, “full of hidden layers.”

Like a ballerina, Lina transitioned swiftly from precise, quick movements to calm efficiency as she cooked. I’d watch her turn on the rice cooker, add rice, oil, salt and water, and set it with a few beeps. Then, she’d put a large pot on an electric burner to start heating up as she sliced the onion into halfmoons and opened a package of chicken, usually drumsticks and thighs. They’d get seared in the pot alongside the garlic and onions. even if I wasn’t watching her, I knew we were having adobo when the smell of vinegar and black peppercorns, heady and alive, hit the hot metal and started to tickle my nose.

Though adobo is a spanish word, the technique for making Philippine adobo predates the centuries-long spanish colonization of and rule over the 7,000-island archipelago. In the Philippines, adobo is both a preparation - the process of marinating and infusing ingredients with vinegar and other flavorings - and the resulting dish. some versions take more than a day to make; others, like the basic recipe I adapted below, can be on the table in an hour. There are probably thousands of variations - adobo can be made around any protein or vegetable; it can be wet or dry, sweet or spicy, silky or thick as soft wool - but they are united by the sour, briny punch of vinegar.

Vinegar was long employed as a preservative in the days before reliable refrigeration, so many cultures developed an affinity for the flavor. But in adobo, vinegar doesn’t sit slyly in the background - it dominates. That said, as with every great dish, a good adobo is all about balance.

“If you taste the sauce right after you add the liquids, it’ll be too tart. Over time, the sauce mellows into something slightly sour yet balanced,” writes chef Nicole Ponseca, in “I Am a Filipino: And This Is how We Cook,” a cookbook she wrote with Miguel Trinidad and Rachel Wharton.

“some people add coconut milk; some cooks add a bit of sweetness in the form of sugar, honey, ripe fruit or even preserves to round out the adobo’s sharp acidity and saltiness,” Ponseca writes. “Think of it like you do music: the notes are familiar, but the arrangement is what makes it unique.”

Filipino adoBo

Active time: 20 minutes | Total time: 1 hour 2 to 3 servings

Filipino adobo, a stew known for its pungency - from vinegar, soy sauce, garlic and peppercorns or chiles - is an incredibly adaptable dish. The proportions of its key ingredients can be added in varying ratios to suit the tastes of the cook, meaning that no two adobos are exactly alike. It’s traditionally made with cane vinegar and light soy sauce; sometimes lime juice or sugar is added, as well. This version, adapted from “The Filipino Cookbook” by Miki Garcia and “I Am a Filipino” by Nicole Ponseca and Miguel Trinidad, uses onions for a touch of sweetness and can be made with either chicken or tofu. If you have time, you can marinate the protein overnight, but it’s not necessary.

If adobo is unfamiliar to you, make this recipe as written before playing around with it. Here are a few suggested variations:

Instead of chicken or tofu >> you can use an equal weight of pork belly, cut into 1-inch cubes. You also can use a whole cauliflower, cut into eight roughly equal chunks - or combine two of these options in one pot.

The onion isn’t as crucial as the garlic >> so skip it if you must. If you enjoy garlic, use more than the recipe suggests.

Cane vinegar or coconut vinegar are traditional here >> but white or rice vinegar work, too (see NOTES).

In addition to the onions and garlic, you could add: sliced Chicken Adobo.

mushrooms, chopped tomatoes or slices of fresh sweet or hot peppers.

To spice things up, consider adding: more peppercorns, a cinnamon stick, a star anise pod and/or a couple of cloves.

NOTES: Wrap the tofu in a clean dish towel and microwave on high for 1 minute. Unwrap, rewrap with a fresh towel and repeat. (This gets rid of excess liquid and is faster than pressing the tofu.) Unwrap, and slice the tofu as directed.

If using tofu, there’s no need to season it with salt before searing.

If you don’t have cane vinegar, use white or rice vinegar plus 2 teaspoons of brown sugar. Instead of soy sauce, you can use liquid aminos. If using coconut aminos, which are sweeter, add 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt, or more to taste.

Storage Notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 4 days.

Where to Buy: Cane vinegar and light soy sauce can be found at Asian markets or online. 1 ½ pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and/or legs patted dry, or 14 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed (see NOTES), cut into 4 or 5 thick slices and patted dry ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt (optional; see NOTES)

Rey Lopez for The Washington Post

2 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil 1 small yellow onion (4 ounces) sliced 5 cloves garlic, lightly smashed ½ cup cane vinegar (see NOTES) ½ cup light or low-sodium soy sauce (see NOTES)

Water, as needed 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 3 bay leaves

Steamed white rice, for serving

If using chicken, season it with the salt. In a large, lidded pot or Dutch oven over high heat, heat the oil until you see a few wisps of smoke. Using tongs, transfer the protein - if using chicken, skin side down - into the pot. Cook, undisturbed, until the protein has browned and the chicken skin has rendered some of its fat, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the pieces over, and reduce the heat to low.

Add the onion and garlic, and allow the garlic to slightly brown, about 2 minutes (the onions may not be browned at this point, and that is fine). Add the vinegar, soy sauce, 1/2 cup water, peppercorns and bay leaves, taking care as the liquid may sputter. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil before lowering the heat to maintain a steady but gentle simmer.

Cover and cook, stirring and turning proteins over once or twice, until the chicken is cooked through or the tofu has taken on the dark color of the sauce, 30 to 40 minutes. If the liquid appears to be evaporating during cooking, add water, 1/2 cup at a time, to compensate. The finished sauce should be thin but pungent.

Taste, and adjust the seasonings, if desired; discard the bay leaves. Spoon some rice into plates or shallow bowls and divide the stew, sauce, any rendered chicken fat and peppercorns among each dish before serving.

Nutrition information per serving (with tofu; 2 pieces of tofu and about 3/4 cups of sauce) | Calories: 298; Total Fat: 17 g; Saturated Fat: 9 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 2356 mg; Carbohydrates: 24 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 15 g; Protein: 17 g.

Per serving (with chicken; 1 or 2 drumsticks and about 3/4 cups of sauce) | Calories: 549; Total Fat: 37 g; Saturated Fat: 16 g; Cholesterol: 150 mg; Sodium: 2119 mg; Carbohydrates: 23 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 17 g; Protein: 34 g.

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Loosely adapted from “The Filipino Cookbook” by Miki Garcia (Tuttle, 2017) and “I Am a Filipino” by Nicole Ponseca and Miguel Trinidad with Rachel Wharton (Artisan, 2018).

Roasted Brussels sprouts with pomegranate and feta bring festive flavors with little fuss

Although I appreciate the many decorative flourishes of the holiday season, from elaborate tablescapes to intricately decorated cookies, I have zero desire to invest my time in them. Instead, I look for lazier ways to bring festive flair to the table, and this recipe is a prime example.

It starts with an everyday staple for me, roasted Brussels sprouts, simply seasoned with salt and cooked until crisp outside and tender inside. All it takes is a couple of easy add-ons to spin it into a gorgeous, holiday dish.

First, I add a shallot to the pan to hitch a ride in the oven with the sprouts. Once roasted, the softened, caramelized shallot is whirred in a food processor or blender with olive oil, cider vinegar and a touch of honey to create a savory, tangy

dressing. You wind up with twice as much dressing as you need for this recipe, but what’s leftover will keep in the refrigerator for several days and elevate just about any winter salad. It’s especially nice on Ellie Krieger chicories such as frisée.

Nourish Drizzling the roasted Brussels sprouts with the dressing, then sprinkling them with crimson pomegranate seeds and flickers of white feta give the healthful side dish an instant pop of flavor, and the festive colors of a decorated tree. All that, and you barely have to try. Now that’s my kind of holiday cooking.

Brussels sprouts With pomegranate, Feta and roasted shallot dressing

Active time: 20 minutes | Total time: 1 hour 4 servings

Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post. Brussels Sprouts With Pomegranate, Feta and Roasted Shallot Dressing.

Storage Notes: Leftover dressing can be refrigerated for up to 4 days. 1 ½ pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 1 medium shallot, halved lengthwise through the root 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided ⅛ teaspoon plus 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, divided 1 tablespoon apple

cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon honey ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup pomegranate seeds 3 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees.

Place the Brussels sprouts and shallot halves on a large, rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt; toss to coat. Roast for 20 minutes, then toss and continue to roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the Brussels sprouts are browned and crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Remove from the oven.

Transfer the shallot pieces to the small bowl of a food processor or mini-food processor; keep the sprouts on the baking sheet. (A smoothie-sized blender will also work.) Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, the vinegar, mustard, honey, remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and the pepper and process until smooth. This makes twice as much dressing as you need for this recipe.

Drizzle the Brussels sprouts with 2 tablespoons of the dressing and toss to coat, then transfer to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the pomegranate and the feta and serve.

Nutrition information per serving (3/4 cup) | Calories: 161; Total Fat: 9 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Cholesterol: 6 mg; Sodium: 283 mg; Carbohydrates: 18 g; Dietary Fiber: 7 g; Sugar: 5 g; Protein: 7 g

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

From cookbook author and registered nutritionist Ellie Krieger.