THE ‘VERTEBRAE OF THE CONFEDERACY’ BIG HILL POND AND THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR

THE

OF CORINTH, MS (OCT. 2-3, 1862)

Big Hill Pond State Park in Southwestern McNairy County has a long, intricate history stretching back to the founding of the nation. In the 1860s, this area was no different than the rest of the torn South and country. At the onset of the Civil War, friends and families were split over the institution of slavery and the conservation of the Union. In McNairy County, and especially the area known as Big Hill, the pairing of the diverse geography and the perfectly positioned Memphis-Charleston and Mobile-Ohio rail lines created a hotbed of wartime activity.

Following Earl Van Dorn’s crushing defeat during the October 3rd and 4th Battle of Corinth, MS in 1862, Union forces followed the retreating Confederates into West Tennessee, culminating in the Battle of Davis Bridge, or the Battle of Hatchie Bridge in McNairy and Hardeman Counties on October 5th. After these bloody days, the Union army held control in the District of Corinth, encompassing the railroad towns of Pocahontas, Chewalla, La Grange, Bolivar, and Moscow in Tennessee, and Holly Springs, Farmington, Kossuth, Corinth, and Iuka in Mississippi, just to name a few. All of these towns were crucial in protecting the critical railroad junction of Corinth where the Memphis and Charleston and the Mobile and Ohio Railroads met.

Along the Memphis and Charleston Railroad, which passes through Pocahontas and Chewalla, in McNairy County, Tennessee, Union forces constructed numerous entrenchments for protection and prevention of another Confederate attack. One of the entrenchments was a significant earthwork on top of a ridge between the Tuscumbia River and Cypress Creek meant to provide a large western view of the Memphis and Charleston R.R. The two waterways hugging the area provided the perfect space for Confederate guerillas to launch surprise attacks, leading to the construction of the earthworks. These earthworks stood as a testament to the importance of defending Corinth, the “vertebrae of the Confederacy,” a name given by Confederate Secretary of War LeRoy Pope Walker.

Following the Battles at Corinth and Davis Bridge, Companies A, B, C, and E of the 18th Missouri Infantry were moved into the area to establish a post at Chewalla over the month of October 1862. It is highly possible that the earthworks were constructed in this time frame. The remainder of the 18th Missouri followed from Corinth by mid-January 1863. Colonel Charles Sheldon Sargeant of the 18th Missouri said of this area:

“The country was heavily wooded, with thick canebrakes on the banks of all streams, and was perfectly suited for the free operations of Guerilla bands.”

The 18th Missouri was primarily tasked with scouting and patrolling this area of the country well into mid-1863. It is very likely that men from this regiment stood guard in the earthworks still seen today. Other regiments joined the 18th and commanded the area. The 9th Illinois Mounted Infantry was stationed at Pocahontas during the summer and fall months of 1863 and frequently led expeditions in and around the area. All Companies of the 9th Illinois led expeditions from Pocahontas to several locations including Ripley, Grenada, and New Albany in Mississippi, the latter being burned to the ground.

The 9th Illinois arrived in Pocahontas and began patrolling the surrounding areas on June 5, 1863. In a journal entry, Marion Morrison, a member of the 9th Illinois, included a description of the arrival on the fifth:

“On the 3d of June, 1863, the Regiment received orders to be ready to move on the next morning, at 8 o'clock, with camp and garrison equipage. Moved on the 4th, in accordance with the above order, in a North-west direction. Passed through Cherwalla, and bivouacked for the night about ten miles west of it. The Tuscumbia and Hatchie Rivers had to be bridged, in order to cross the artillery and infantry. The entire Brigade were moving with us. These streams were bridged, the forces crossed, and we arrived at Pocahontas by 4 P. M., on the 5th of June, and bivouacked in the town for the night. On the 7th, the Regiment moved into camp onefourth mile north of the town.”

Union map of Corinth area drawn in 1862. Chewalla and Pocahontas are shown along with the Tuscumbia and Cypress waterways. The area of Big Hill Pond sits in the middle of Pocahontas and Chewalla.

The 9th Illinois would stay in the area of Pocahontas, consistently patrolling the area between their camp and Chewalla, nearly 10 miles southeast. In this ten-mile gap following the Memphis and Charleston Railroad were the numerous entrenchments constructed following the October Battle of Corinth, including the Big Hill Pond Fortification. In Marion Morrison’s journal, he included a short section describing these frequent patrols: “During the first three weeks of September, from one to four companies were out scouting, almost daily.”

In Pocahontas, the 9th Illinois created their own sanctuary and made the town come to life. In mid-August, the regiment constructed a chapel in their camp to observe Sabbath and attend Wednesday evening services.

“Soon, however, some of the soldiers volunteered their services, and erected a comfortable chapel, 40 by 24 feet, in which to hold our meetings. We had occupied this but a few Sabbaths, when we moved from our old camp at Pocahontas.” Furthermore, in preparation for the winter months, the Regiment constructed cabins with fireplaces to replace their tents: “As the weather was now becoming too cold for the airy tents, which most of the Regiment occupied, the boys went to the timber, split boards, hauled poles, &c., and put themselves up comfortable quarters. Brick chimneys, left where houses had been burnt through the country, were torn down and brought into camp, and neat little chimneys built to their shanties. Thus the boys were preparing for comfortably spending the winter in their camp.”

The 10-mile distance between Pocahontas and Chewalla is a primarily low-lying swampland intertwined with rolling hills and high ridges. Cypress Creek and the Tuscumbia River flow between the two towns, creating an intricate place primed for Confederate guerillas on the prowl. The addition of the crucial Memphis and Charleston Railroad cutting directly through the swampland and in between the numerous high ridges created a complicated landscape that was intricately difficult to defend, but crucial to the survival of the Union.

By the fall of 1863, the risk of Confederate victory had cooled immensely in the region. The railroad was primarily being utilized as transport for William T. Sherman’s troops marching through Georgia at the time. In the final days of October 1863, the 9th Illinois began preparing for their final departure from Pocahontas. Chaplain Marion Morrison described this:

“The morning of October 30th came, and with it heavy clouds, threatening rain. Baggage must be packed up. Tents must be struck. Wagons must be loaded. By about 8 ½ A. M., all was ready, and we were on the march. About the time we started, it commenced raining, and rained heavily all day.This made it difficult for the Battery wagons to proceed rapidly. Came to Cypress Creek and bottom. The stream was very difficult to cross. There was a swampy bottom, of three miles, which we had to cross. The Battery did not get through it that night, but camped in the bottom. The right wing of the Regiment moved out to the ridge beyond, and there awaited the arrival of Battery and left wing. It being found they could not get through that night, all went into bivouack until morning. At an early hour on the morning of the 31st, the Regiment and Battery were on the move. We reached Corinth about 1 P. M., of the 31st. Here we were relieved as escort to the Battery. Went into camp in the barracks lately occupied by the 50th Ill. Regiment. Here we remained until the morning of the 3d of November.”

After the 9th Illinois departed, new trouble was already brewing in West Tennessee. General Nathan Bedford Forrest had been leading raids and attacks across the region since the fall of 1862 and by October of 1863, he was still going strong. In the months of November and December, the Union regiments in the area were on high alert and were stationed at numerous outposts around the area. The guards overlooking the Memphis and Charleston Railroad were especially alert, prepared for a strike from Forrest on the railroad at any time. Of these men at the numerous outposts were members of the First Alabama Regiment, African Descent.

The First Alabama had been mustered into service late in 1862 and had already been on garrison duties in the areas surrounding Corinth. The African American soldiers of the First Alabama consisted of both freedmen and former slaves. Three companies of the First were sent to Big Hill in Tennessee to watch the Tuscumbia Bridge and Memphis and Charleston Railroad. In a report sent by Brigadier General John D. Stevenson to Major-General Stephen A. Hulburt, Stevens notified Hulburt of the relocation of troops across the region:

“I have made the following disposition of my troops: Hurst's regiment at Grand Junction, with four companies to occupy Saulsbury; four companies of Ninth Illinois Cavalry at Middleton; Third Illinois Cavalry at Pocahontas; First Alabama [African descent], six companies at Pocahontas, also Kidd's light battery; three companies First Alabama [African descent] at Big Hill, to protect Tuscumbia bridge, and one company at Cypress Creek; strong outpost of cavalry at Chewalla; First Alabama Cavalry at Camp Davies, 5 miles south of here.”

Following this brief stint between October and early December of 1863, the First Alabama was relocated. There is no evidence that any other regiments served in the area of Big Hill, between Pocahontas and Chewalla, Tennessee for the remainder of the war. Following the close of the war, the area of Big Hill maintained a light population and inhabitants scattered the heavily wooded area. As American industry evolved, the logging industry took hold in the area, with several roads and paths lining the once dramatic battleground.

Today, the remnants of the Civil War still litter the area in and around Big Hill Pond State Park. Visitors to the park can trek down to the railroad on the southern end of the map and visit the earthworks. These earthworks, nestled on a high ridge between the Tuscumbia River and Cypress Creek still offer a clear western view of the Memphis to Charleston Railroad, the same view that Union soldiers had over a century ago defending the railroad and keeping the “vertebrae of the Confederacy” out of rebel hands.

Approximate layout of the earthworks within Big Hill Pond, drawn in 1998.