Where West 2020 - Connacht Tribune Group by Declan McGuire

HARD LANDS, WARM HEARTS:

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

DISCOVER THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE WEST YOUR STAYCATION GUIDE TO THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

AWAKEN YOUR CURIOSITY: CYCLING THE WEST

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elcome to the third edition of Where West, jointly published by The Connacht Tribune and The Clare Champion newspapers which is designed to help you get the most out of your daytrip or long weekend in both Galway and Clare post Covid-19 lockdown. We have combined our circulation strengths to offer customers and readers this unique opportunity to indulge themselves in planning where best to spend a day, a weekend or even more within one hour’s drive from either Ennis or Galway. Where to dine safely, where to walk, where to cycle, where to drive, where to see what is happening in both counties – this is your ultimate guide to planning your holiday break along the west coast of Ireland. The magazine is packed with local information, hidden gems and plenty of things to do in both counties. In so many ways, counties Galway and Clare exemplify what is best about Ireland. Everything that we love about our country and all the images that are associated with it, can be found in abundance in both counties. You have beautiful beaches – long, sweeping stretches of golden sands being kissed by dazzling blues waves of the Atlantic and you also have bustling towns – charming destinations where there’s always some craic to be found. There’s always a Cead Mile Failte along the Wild Atlantic Way, with people who are happy to stop and have a chat - you’ll always find a good story on the west coast. Because it’s always worth planning your daytrip according to what you want to see and visit, particularly if something requires advance booking, we hope that Where West will give you a comprehensive insight into what is available along the route from north Galway to south Clare. There are many key sights to discover along the coast from the incredible Cliffs of Moher to the stunning Aran Islands and the fascinating Connemara National Park. But there are also the spots you find when you meander off track – the great little pub in a rural village serving food and drink in a safe environment, the hidden archaeological secrets, the sea view that will take your breath away. Galway and Clare are the ‘’heartbeat’’ of the Wild Atlantic Way, with many discovery points along the stretch of coastline which is the longest of any county in Ireland. Clare and Galway will give you so much, yet always leave you wanting more. It is easy to see why people in both counties are so proud of their corner of the world, and why they love to see visitors discovering their locality for themselves. Eat, sleep and explore your local Wild Atlantic Way with the assistance of ‘Where West’ from your best local paper.

16 HARD LANDS, WARM HEARTS:

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

AWAKEN YOUR CURIOSITY:

CYCLING THE WEST

CREDITS Project Managers: Declan McGuire and John Galvin Production: Seán Fitzmaurice, Production Manager, Clare Champion

DISCOVER THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE WEST DON’T MISS WHAT’S NEW ALONG THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Production Co-ordination Connacht Tribune: Philip Smyth Editorial Co-Ordination Connacht Tribune: Dave O’Connell, Group Editor. Editorial content: Declan McGuire, John Galvin, Dave O’Connell, Judy Murphy, Declan Tierney, Peadar O’Dowd, Denise McNamara, Stephen Corrigan, Dara Bradley, Jessica Quinn, Fiona McGarry, Austin Hobbs, Dan Danaher, Gerry McInerney, Peter O’Connell and Owen Ryan. Photography: Tourism Ireland, Joe Shaughnessy, John Kelly and John Galvin Advertising: Corinna Hurley, Dee Maxwell, Kieran Rabbitte; Leo O’Connor and Alan Harvey. Advertising Design: Ivan Morgan; Pat Griffin, Martin Keady Jnr, John Kelly, Caroline Crowley Judy Prendergast and Seán Fitzmaurice. Where West concept by Declan McGuire. © Connacht Tribune and Clare Champion.

C DISCOVER

THE FREEDOM OF GALWAY AND CLARE

ounty Galway has much to offer in the way of expeditions and experiences. Away from the tourist crowds, you will enjoy the most spectacular views along the Wild Atlantic Way and in the county’s Hidden Heartlands. It is no wonder that National Geographic named Galway among the world’s best trips for 2020. Galway offers a unique experience, nestled on the shores of the Atlantic at the very edge of Europe. Galway is bolstered by an energetic population and filled with character. It is a county of unparalleled natural beauty, ripe land and rich marine. All along the Galway coast and Wild Atlantic Way hidden gems unfold. Frequent festivals and events have made it a colourful and exciting place to visit year-round and hopefully these will all be resumed in the not too distant future. From the well-known food festivals, outdoor activities, arts and crafts and music, Galway provides for a deep cultural, artistic and traditional heritage experience. Tap into the rhythm of Galway’s hidden heartlands and uncover exciting waterside towns and enchanting rural villages. Nestled on the banks of the River Shannon and at the mouth of Lough Derg is the picturesque town of Portumna. Experience the town’s heritage, Portumna Castle and Gardens, the Irish Workhouse Centre, or take a walk through Portumna Forest Park adjacent to the town, which offers an eclectic mix of shops, pubs and restaurants. Continue your journey through Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands and explore Woodford ‘’the village of the Iron Hills’’, situated between the river Shannon and the stunning Slieve Aughty Mountains, Woodford boasts three nature reserves in glorious surroundings, offering a truly unique experience for walking and cycling, boasting unique views of Lough Derg and the river Shannon. It is here you will find your own rhythm.

Just outside the town of Gort, is where you’ll find the beautiful Coole Park, formerly the estate of Lady Gregory but now a 1,000 acre nature reserve. Here you can enjoy marked walking trails, Thoor Ballylee, Yeat’s Tower, a visitor’s centre, tearooms, picnic area and walled gardens. Tuam is a town immersed in history and situated just thirty kilometers north-east of Galway city. Enjoy panoramic views on Knockma Hill, just 6 kilometers from Tuam, home to the Fairy Legend, Finvarra, King of the Connacht Fairies reputed to have held his court here. Standing in serene solitude, just two miles West from the town of Headford, lies the Franciscan Friary of Ross, recognized by many historians both past and present as the best preserved monastic ruin of its period in Ireland. It was founded in 1349 by the then Archbishop of Tuam, Dr. Malachy MacHugh. The Award for Galway as European Capital of Culture for 2020 was to bring an extravaganza of new unique and exciting festivals to the county but this has all been suspended for now. Headford with its bohemian feel was to honour and re-imagine its lace making heritage as one of 51 towns participating in Galway’s 2020 European Capital of Culture Small Towns ‘’Big Ideas’’, making Galway County a colourful and exciting place to visit year-round.

Take a trip along the Wild Atlantic Way and visit the Derrygimlagh blanket bog, a rugged and wild landscape steeped in history. Located 4km south of Clifden, this stunning mosaic of landscape is where you can view two sites of international historical significance. Visit the first transatlantic radio station (Marconi) and a white memorial paying tribute to John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown – the first transatlantic flight which flew from Newfoundland to Clifden in 1919. For those desiring a more active break, The Western Way is a long-distance walking trail taking in spectacular scenery stretching from Oughterard, through the Inagh Valley and finishing at Killary Harbour near Leenane. Become immersed in some of the most incredible geologically and ecologically significant landscapes in the world including the Connemara National Park and the UNESCO Aspirant Geopark in the Joyce Country surrounding the beautiful village of Clonbur. Named by Travelzoo as the ‘’Best for Foodies 2019’’ Galway is a foodie hotspot known for its abundance of high quality and rich produce, making it the perfect place to get a taste of the West. Experience Galway’s food culture with a range of memorable food and agricultural experiences through the county. ▶▶ Continued on page 6

▲▲ Poulnabrone Dolmen, Co. Clare

▲▲ Aillebrack Beach in County Galway

▲▲ Kilkee Cliffs from Drunlicka

EXPLORE GALWAY OFF THE BEATEN TRACK AND DISCOVER MAGICAL HIDDEN GEMS Adventure seekers, art aficionados, and culture vultures; County Galway has something to delight everyone! From its buzzing streets and vibrant festivals of Galway City to its hidden bays, wild terrain, wide open skies and unforgettable island escapes - County Galway is the perfect choice for your Wild Atlantic Way getaway. To inspire your next trip, here is a guide to explore Galway off the beaten track.

HIDDEN HIGHLIGHTS Start your adventure on The Connemara Greenway, a dedicated 6km cycle and walk route which runs through the beautiful Ballynahinch Estate. While you’re there, visit Ballynahinch Castle Hotel and book a tour with walking guide Noel, who will share stories and secrets of this captivating area as you journey through woodlands, by lakeshore and river, with stunning views of the Twelve Bens and Maumturk Mountains. Connemara, long recognised as one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland, is famed for its wildness as much as its warm welcome. This landscape rich in contrasts is best enjoyed by getting off the beaten path and seeking out your own experiences. A great way to do this is on a bike. All Things Connemara Bike Hire operate from the region’s largest town, Clifden and is a great starting

point for your Galway adventure. Pedal at your own pace and explore the many quiet cycle routes through the surrounding blanket bog. Take in some historical sites along the way including Derrigimlagh, now one of the fifteen Signature Discovery Points on the Wild Atlantic Way, a site where pilots Alcock and Brown safely crash landed after the first non-stop flight across the Atlantic in 1919.

FAMILY FUN Killary Adventure Centre is a long-time favourite with thrill seekers and families alike. The centre offers over 20 of the most exciting adventure activities to choose from, including archery, kayaking and abseiling, all based in one of Ireland’s most stunning locations, Killary Fjord. A recent addition to the centre is the family friendly Killary Coastal Walk, a 1km walking trail suitable for all abilities. It features sculptures along the way as well as designated swimming spots and stunning scenery perfect for capturing the ultimate family photo. While you’re there make sure to visit Tom at Killary Sheep Farm, where you can shear sheep, feed baby lambs and watch sheep dog demos.

FRESH FARE After working up an appetite stop by one of Connemara’s newest hidden gems, the Misunderstood Heron food truck, who featured on Nevin Maguire’s Irish Food Trails. Located at the entrance of Killary Adventure Centre and run by husband and wife team Reinaldo

Seco and Kim Young, they use local, fresh produce and take inspiration from the landscape of Connemara, where Kim grew up, as well as mixing flavours from around the world.

ADVENTURE AWAITS Experience the ultimate Galway get away adventure with a trip to an Island. Inishbofin Island lies 7 miles off the coast of Galway and is accessible by ferry from Cleggan Pier. This small island offers lots to do for all the family including three official looped walkways and two Green Coast Awarded beaches. Explore the island on horseback with the Inishbofin Equestrian Centre on a special trek taking in stunning vistas and many historical sites along the way. Get up close and personal with the creatures of the deep in the clear Atlantic waters surrounding the Island with Island West Dive School.

3 FESTIVALS NOT TO MISS With a long tradition for music and the arts it’s no surprise that Galway offers a wide range of excellent festivals throughout the year. The Galway International Arts Festival was planned to be one of the major highlights of a year of events being held in the city as part of Galway’s designation as European Capital of Culture 2020. The 43rd Galway International Arts Festival was expected to run from Monday July 13th to Sunday 26th 2020 and planned to feature a wealth of theatre, music, comedy,

visual art, dance, and literary events from artists from Africa, America, Asia, Australia, Europe, and of course Ireland and Galway. However, circumstances changed dramatically due to the Covid-19 outbreak and all work was suspended on the festival for 2020. Founded in 1978, the Festival collaborates with artists and companies throughout the world to produce and present an international programme of theatre, spectacle, dance, visual arts, music, literature and comedy involving hundreds of artists and performers. Galway International Arts Festival is at the heart of all aspects of life in Galway City contributing immeasurably to the economic, social and cultural life of the west of Ireland. Over its 40-year history, the Festival has become a vital showcase for Irish arts internationally and international arts in Ireland and is now firmly established as Ireland’s leading arts festival. Under the direction of Artistic Director Paul Fahy, Galway International Arts Festival was to feature over 500 writers, artists, performers and musicians from America, Asia, Australia and Europe and of course Ireland. The Festival planned to highlight dance, physical theatre and spectacle from America and Europe illustrating the Festival’s continuing commitment to staging extraordinary, ambitious and innovative projects, the world premiere of new Irish theatre, site-specific visual arts commissions and the introduction of the new, specially commissioned Festival Big Top in the spectacular setting by

the banks of Galway’s River Corrib to add to the magic and diversity of Galway in July. 2020 was to include the largest and most ambitious programme to date. New opera and theatre, including four world premieres; Live at the Heineken Big Top; a First Thought programme that discusses Power; extraordinary visual art and street spectacle are among the highlights. Hopefully, we will see a return of the festival in another form in 2021. The Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival is an annual four day event held each year on the last weekend of September in the centre of Galway City. A highlight in the west of Ireland’s festival calendar, it is the world’s longest running Oyster Festival and one of the most internationally recognised Irish events. The 2020 event was expected to take place from Friday, September 25th to Sunday, September 27th 2020 at the Nimmos Pier Marquee. During this popular food festival, you can expect to experience a wide variety of tantalising events to enjoy from seafood trails, oyster hot spots, oyster opening (shucking) championships including the Oyster ‘Olympics’ or World Oyster Opening Championship, foodie talks and tasting events in some of Galway’s finest restaurants, food provenance tours, sample delights at the intimate

food village at The Festival Marquee, a Mardi Gras style Gala Event through the streets of Galway, Best Dressed The Clifden Arts Festival is the longest running community arts festival in Ireland, Clifden Community Arts Week, now in its 43rd year yet again promised to have something to excite everyone in this year’s programme. Described as “Ireland’s best-kept secret” by Nobel Laureate Kazuo Ishiguro, audiences expected a very high quality artistic programme with a superb literary, musical and visual art content which again should have the community arts of Clifden and the surrounding hinterland as a central focus with creative writing, music, theatre, graphic design and film workshops and performances taking place in the local schools for the duration of the festival. Clifden Arts Week began life as a weeklong celebration of the arts for the children of Clifden Community School – helping to develop artistic and social skills, and provide an outlet for self-expression and development. Over the years Arts Week at the school gave such pleasure to the greater community that an encompassing and fervent support network grew around it, allowing it to develop. ▶▶ Continued on page 8

Bridging the best of Ireland’s West

#MakeABreakForIt

WK28 Shannon Ferries Clare Champion HP Supplement (252x150).indd 1

▲▲ Diarmaid and Grainne’s Rock, Loop Head

www.shannonferries.com tel: +353 (0)65 9053124 07/07/2020 15:45

CLARE OFFERS A WEALTH OF ATTRACTIONS PERFECT FOR EVERYONE Situated right in the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way, County Clare offers a wealth of attractions perfect for all visitors. It is the perfect place to sample the very best the Wild Atlantic Way has to offer – think bracing cliff walks, warm and inviting traditional pubs, awe inspiring history and heritage all alongside stunning coastal scenery with every bend of the road. To inspire your next trip, here is a guide to explore Clare off the beaten track.

HIDDEN HIGHLIGHTS No visit to Clare is complete without taking in the breathtaking surroundings of The Burren, recognised as one of Europe’s most distinctive landscapes, it is home to unique flora and fauna as well as archaeological and geological highlights. There are many different ways to explore

FAMILY FUN Located in the beautiful village of Ballyvaughan in the Burren, The Aillwee Cave and Birds of Prey Centre offers a great visitor experience for guests of all ages. The Burren network of caves is a dramatic underworld of over 200 caves and caverns includes the longest cave in Ireland measuring an impressive 15kms. Experienced guides will take you through a tour where you can see a variety of spectacular formations including a frozen waterfall and even the hibernation chambers of long extinct brown bears. Above ground The Birds of Prey Centre is home to one of the largest and most varied collections in Ireland including eagles, hawks, owls, vultures and falcons. Expert handlers will talk you through the different species and the conservation programmes happening both in Ireland and worldwide to help protect these majestic creatures. Daily flying displays provide a great opportunity to see these beautiful birds in free flight against the dramatic setting of the Burren landscape.

ADVENTURE AWAITS Loop Head, voted Irish Times best place to holiday in 2018, is a great place to see spectacular cliff scenery and enjoy a wide range of attractions and activities. The popular seaside town of Kilkee, which has been a longtime holiday favourite for Irish families for generations is a great place to base yourself for an active holiday that offers something for the whole family. Take the plunge and enjoy paddle boarding and windsurfing or snorkel natural rock pools in Kilkee’s famous Pollock Holes - natural large rockpools within walking distance of the town. Enjoy a spot of dolphin watching with Dolphinwatch based in nearby Carrigaholt, a firm favourite with younger visitors or try your hand at catching fish for your supper with Fishing Adventures in Kilkee!

FRESH FARE Reward yourself with a well-earned pint and some delicious seafood fresh from the Atlantic in one of Doolin’s many gastropubs and restaurants. With a thriving traditional music scene, Doolin is a great lively village which offers so much for people to see and experience. Just 20 minutes down the road in nearby Lisdoonvarna, a traditional smokehouse demonstrates first-hand the traditional artisanal way to smoke fresh fish including salmon, mackerel and trout. The award-winning produce available in the onsite shop is a great taste of the west to bring home. Sample some amazing home cooking in

the quaint Ivy Cottage Café with daily fresh fish and hand cut chips as well as tasty pastries and sweet treats.

FESTIVALS NOT TO MISS When planning any trip to County Clare it is worth considering taking in one of the many festivals which take place all year round – hopefully some of these may re-emerge in some fashion this year post Covid-19. Embrace the Wild Atlantic Way at the Doolin Surf Festival, a three day celebration of this wonderful coastal town. It promises music, crafts, delicious food as well as guest speakers and film screenings. The Loop Head Walking & Heritage Festival. It offers four days of organised walks taking in some of the most beautiful coastal scenery along the wild Atlantic Way. Enjoy vast areas of unspoilt beauty and including long sandy beaches and rugged cliff walks. Savour the tastes of the west of Ireland at the Burren Slow Food Festival an annual feast for the senses packed full with talks, cookery demos, an Artisan Food Producers’ and Farmers’ Market and a pop-up café. In August, the Feakle Festival normally hosts lively music sessions in the town’s pubs throughout the weekend. Across the four days Feakle will literally be alive with music and is a must visit for anyone looking to see and hear the best of traditional Irish Music. For more inspiration and ideas for a getaway on the Wild Atlantic Way, please visit www.wildatlanticway.com

County Clare is Amazing. Take it ALL in! Ireland's Hidddeenn Heartlands

The Burren and er Cliffs of Mohher

Clare 's i ld AtlaW ntic W ay

Many of the dramatists, graphic designers and copywriters that work on the festival every year were once the children that attended Clifden Community School, and are now delighted to contribute their professional services. For more inspiration and ideas for a getaway on the Wild Atlantic Way, please visit www.wildatlanticway.com

it, but one great option is the Burren Electric Bike Experience. A guided electric bike tour of the Burren, incorporating some of the main sights, including Poulnabrone Dolmen, Caherconnell Ring Fort, and the landscape of the inland Burren. See ancient sites and tombs, Burren limestone pavement, wildflowers in bloom, birds and wildlife, all interpreted by an experienced local guide.

Atlantic Ocean

◀◀ Continued from page 7

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nnon ThetuSahray Way Es Loop Head Peninsula

• The amazing beaches, cliffscapes, and seascapes along Clare's Wild Atlantic Way. • The spectacular Loop Head Peninsula, and the Shannon Estuary Way.

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• The famous Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. • Ireland's Hidden Heartlands - the River Shannon Shannon, the East Clare Lakelands, and Lough Derg Bluewa Blueway for great activities. • Ennis and other welcoming towns and villages offering a wealth of dining options, historical attractions, traditional entertainment, and craft shopping. • Wonderful activity, sporting, leisure, and heritage attractions.

For great ideas, check out VisitClare.ie e.ie ®

Connacht Hospitality Group have got Galway Covered

MUSEUM REOPENS WITH MONUMENTS AND MYTHS BY JUDY MURPHY

alway City Museum reopened to the public on July 31, with two new exhibitions, which explore aspects of Galway’s diverse heritage. Admission to the Museum continues to be free but visitors will now have to book ahead and will need a ticket. This can be presented at the main entrance, either in a printed format or on a mobile phone. Both exhibitions, Monument and The Corrib: Myth, Legend and Folklore, will be on the ground floor of the Museum – for now, that’s the only area of the civic space that will be open to the public. The multi-disciplinary show Monument will focus on the stone forts of Aran, especially the world-renowned Dún Aonghasa, as it explores some of Europe’s most impressive stone monuments, which are located on some of the continent’s smallest islands. A presentation between the City Museum and Galway 2020, European Capital of Culture, Monument is the result of a collaboration between State agencies and institutions, and individual archaeologists and artists, all working across a range of disciplines. It offers an insight into the archaeology, architecture, craft and design, cultural landscapes, construction, sustainability and

social history of these monuments and the islands on which they were built. Monument, which has been assisted by the National Museum of Ireland, will feature previously unseen material from archaeological excavations at Dún Aonghasa during the 1990s. And the exhibition will also feature specially commissioned pieces by 10 of Ireland’s top craftspeople, all of them inspired by Dún Aonghasa and the Aran Islands. The works have been created by textile artist Áine Ní Chonghaile, from the Inis Meáin Knitting Company; glass artist Róisín De Buitléar; silversmith Cóilín Ó Dubhghaill; ceramicist Katherine West; basket-maker Joe Hogan; knitter Elain McBride; graphic artist Maeve Clancy; woodturner Alan Meredith; currach-maker Patrick Flaherty, and filmmaker Colm Hogan. Monument was curated by the Director of Galway City Museum Eithne Verling and architect Sybil Curley and was inspired by the three themes of the Galway 2020 programme – Landscape, Language and Migration, they explain. “Our vision for the exhibition blends digital, physical and tactile experiences to tell this story in a manner that, we hope, will entertain, inform and delight audiences of all ages.” That show is in the area to the right and

The Connacht Hospitality Group, one of Galways leading hospitality groups has always had the customer at the core of everything they do. The “new normal” has been a relatively smooth transition for the group who have taken plenty of precautions to ensure that staff and customers safety is an absolute priority while also offering guests what they do best, world class hospitality. An Pucan and 1520 were ﬁrst to reopen much to the delight to their regular customers, the feedback to date has been fantastic, with addition spacing between tables and bar stools removed from the bar the venues have still managed to maintain the great atmosphere and warm welcome. Hyde Bar has also opened with a seven-day brunch menu to the delight of customers. Bookings are being encouraged such is demand, walk in customers are being accommodated whenever possible but demand has been huge so far so dropping the bars a message via social media is the way forward.

left of the Museum reception desk, while The Corrib: Myth, Legend and Folklore is to the left as people enter the building by the main door. Lough Corrib, which is the largest lake in the Republic, is connected to Galway Bay by the short and powerful River Corrib. This exhibition features specially-commissioned artwork by Sadie Cramer, which explores some of the myths and stories about the Corrib – Lake and River – and Galway Bay, setting them in a broader context. It has been curated by Brendan McGowan of the Museum. “The sound of the River Corrib as it rushes towards Galway Bay is, and always has been, the soundtrack to life in Galway,” he explains, as he adds that the exhibition is not confined to an indoor space. That’s because visitors to the Museum will be encouraged to take the specially designed Myth, Legend and Folklore tour brochure with them as they leave, so they can enjoy a walking tour and visit the sites that feature in the show. “This beautifully-illustrated exhibition and accompanying walking trail, explores some of the myth, legend and folklore that the river and bay have inspired over the centuries,” says Brendan. “After visiting, you will never look at them the same way again!” The Director of the Museum, Eithne Ver-

ling, reminds people that the number of visitors allowed into the building when reopens next Tuesday will be strictly controlled, in line with Covid-19 safety guidelines. Those who do attend the exhibitions will have to adhere to correct social distancing and health and safety protocols so that everyone can enjoy the exhibitions in a safe and comfortable environment, she says. “We aspire to retain, as before, a safe public space but we do need help from the public,” Eithne explains. “It will be challenging for all of us to combine social distancing with real experience, reflection and engagement but we are up for the challenge if you are.” Tickets for Monument and The Corrib: Myth, Legend and Folklore can be booked at www.galwaycitymuseum.ie. Booking slots are available from 10am daily with the last one being at 3.30pm. The Museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday inclusive and the shows will be in place until the end of the year. If you have any further enquiries about the shows and Covid-19 protocols, email museum@galwaycity.ie or phone 091532460. ▲▲ An aerial view of Dún Aongasha on Inis Mór: Courtesy of Gareth McCormack.

The three hotels in the Connacht Hospitality Group, The Residence Hotel, The Forster Court and The Connacht Hotel have also reopened and a great deal of preparation by the teams in each property. The group have been very proactive about social distancing and safety signage to ensure that guests feel as safe as possible during their stay and it really seems to be working, the feedback both online and from conversations with the guests has been fantastic. As booking continued to ﬁll up the season is looking promising for the group despite all of the challenges. As the world of sport reawakens the safest sport that there is in terms of social distancing is undoubtedly golf and the Galway Bay Golf Resort has seen a very busy return to action. The club is the ideal place to get some exercise and fresh and while still being able to stay safe. From the 10th of July and every other Friday for July and August the Galway Bay Golf Resort will be running an “Open Day” at the Resort so keep an eye on the Resorts Social Media channels for more information. And ﬁnally Active Fitness Gym, reopened mid July and have been delighted to welcome their loyal members back who were able to freeze their memberships without question over the last few months, there was a huge effort by the team to ensure that the gym is ideally laid out and that members can enjoy as “normal” an experience as possible.

HYDE Bar & Gin Parlour

An Pucan

Galway Bay Golf Resort

Forster Court Hotel

Residence Hotel

Reubens Restaurant at the Connacht

Bar Solo at the Connacht

Visit www.connachthospitalitygroup.ie for more details

KYLEMORE ABBEY OPENS ITS DOORS ON NEW MONASTERY By Stephen Corrigan

ne-hundred years after they fled wartorn Belgium to settle in Ireland, the Benedictine Order of nuns at Kylemore Abbey opened the doors on a new monastery – beginning anew by achieving what their predecessors had worked towards for the past century. Since the school at Kylemore closed ten years ago, the tourist numbers visiting the Abbey and its surrounds have grown steadily. The newly renovated Abbey has reinvigorated what is a jewel in the crown of Connemara’s tourism offering – but the story of Kylemore has been as much about survival as it has been about creating a stopping point along the Connemara tourist route, as Sr Máire Hickey OSB, Mother Abbess at Kylemore explains. From the 1960s onwards, Ireland was becoming more prosperous and following membership of the EU in 1973, tourism began to grow. American tourists began to

trace their fore-fathers and were looking for places to stop when they visited Connemara, she says. “The nuns knew they had to keep the place going and to earn a living, so they opened a little café and a little shop. They started building a business to meet the needs of visitors and that developed into what you see here today,” says Sr Máire. Much has changed over the 100 years the nuns have been resident in Kylemore. When they first arrived at the former home of Mitchell Henry in 1920, the Benedictine mission of education was their number one priority. The decision to close the school was difficult, says Sr Máire, but when the final call was made in 2005, that Benedictine ethos remained strong in those who remained in Kylemore. “The school started getting a bit laborious from a financial point of view – it was costing more and more with increasing health and safety requirements and new subjects. “The number of nuns started to decline

▲▲ Kylmore Abbey Manager, Eithne O’Halloran.

and there were few teaching, and fewer new entrants. We had to employ supervisors and it became impossible to keep it going. The decision to close was made in 2005 and the doors closed after the last Leaving Certificate students finished in 2010,” she recalls. While secondary school education at Kylemore has ceased, its function as a place of education has not. Since 2016, the Kylemore Abbey Global Centre has hosted courses, retreats and events for students of the University of Notre Dame in Indiana. Those five years between the decision to close the school and the final students walking out the door were spent planning for the future survival of Kylemore. “The thinking at the time was, ‘should we be thinking of going somewhere else?’. But the decision was made to remain – we all wanted to stay. “There is a sense of destiny about here – it was the place our mothers and grandmothers were called to from Ypres,” says Sr Máire of those who fled persecution in Belgium. A development plan was drawn up about 10 years ago and the values of Benedictine life were at its core, she says. The mission of education and of hospitality to all those who wish to come to Kylemore were fundamental to their plans. “Hospitality means having an open door for all comers – young and old; God-seeking or not. It’s a place where people can come to be reflective or to rest and that’s a very typical form of monastery in Europe,” says Sr Máire. That mission has influenced the plans for the new monastery which is due to open its doors ahead of the Order’s centenary at Kylemore on December 4, 2020. “What we want to create is an Irish modern Benedictine monastery that meets the requirements of the 21st Century. A huge amount of things change and we don’t know what people will want in 20 years. All of our hearts and energy have gone into creating something with a purpose – a good place for people to visit. “St Benedict says that when you receive a guest, you receive them with huge respect as though they were Christ. He says to take special care of the poor because the wealthy can get what they need. You make sure the poor have enough,” says Sr Máire. The new monastery may be bedded in a traditional ethos, but it’s one that is as contemporary today as it ever was – and perhaps more so, she continues. “It is a very human message – take people where they are. Have a place where they will be welcomed, treated with respect and where they will find a listening ear. A place where they will be able to rest and relax and find peace. “If they are consciously seeking God, a

▲▲ A robin feeds from Sr Mary Scholastica’s hand at Kylemore Abbey.

▲▲ Sr Mary Scholastica pictured in the grounds of Kylemore Abbey.

▲▲ Sr Máire Hickey OSB, Mother Abbess, pictured with an icon of St Benedict which was donated by Samantha Omey, a former student from California. The icon was commissioned by Ms Omey to be erected in the new monastery ahead of its opening later this year.

place where they can learn to pray. We don’t ask – we take them as they are with the needs that they bring.” The new monastery will provide living quarters for the nuns at Kylemore, while also providing guest beds for those who are seeking a retreat in the tranquil surrounds of the 1,000-acre estate. “We will have space for the reception of

groups. It will be a place where people can come for all kinds of reasons. We have been given stewardship of this place. “That is the main reason we are here. Kylemore is not our possession – it has been given to us by certain laws of nature and we are committed to developing it for the good of the community,” says Sr Máire. Executive Director of the Kylemore Trust

Conor Coyne says that Benedictine commitment to stewardship very much chimes with the modern discourse of sustainability – ensuring what has been given to us is passed on to the next generation. The new-build monastery will be an efficient and sustainable development, while plans are afoot for additional projects that aim to make Kylemore carbon neutral – protecting the ecology and biodiversity of the estate, says Conor. “Stewardship is part of the ethos of St Benedict and part of its modern manifestation is sustainability. “What we are showing here is that an ancient ethos can inform a modern organisation,” he says. For Conor, there’s a particular sense of community around Kylemore – an ownership for the estate that in many ways belongs to the people of Connemara. “As a born and bred Connemara person, I know there is huge goodwill and support from the locality – and also a pride in having this forward-looking enterprise – something it’s great to have in a place like Connemara. “There is a huge amount of staff helping to drive this forward, and many of them were educated by the nuns,” he explains. Head of Development at Kylemore Liz McConnell concurs, adding that there are generations of families that have worked on the lands at Kylemore, and former students of the school now working to enhance the Abbey and deliver the new monastery. “We have a very international composition of alumni – an international cohort that were here for school and now come back for tourism. “Kylemore is a very outward looking place,” says Liz, adding that among its alumni is Eithne O’Halloran who is now Kylemore Abbey Manager. The work done by the nuns at Kylemore over the past 100 years has all been leading to the opening of a new monastery, says Conor. “We don’t see the completion of the monastery as the end, however. It is the beginning of a new century at Kylemore,” he adds.

GET TO GALWAY AND LIVE IT UP IN THE LATIN QUARTER

GALWAY CITY

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY SOLUTION G alway City offers loads to do… and it costs little or nothing to do them. If you’re struggling to choose between a city break and the great outdoors, then Galway City offers the perfect solution to your problem. There is no need to compromise, as Galway City offers you all the vibrancy and excitement that comes with city life along with the option to escape to quieter landscapes in the West of Ireland to take in some of the beautiful scenery the Wild Atlantic Way has become famous for. A stroll from Eyre Square down Shop Street and onto the Spanish Arch with a detour down the Long Walk will while away an hour or two… but you don’t have to limit yourself to the great outdoors. The Galway City Museum is one of the city’s treasures – and it’s free. For those familiar with the iconic statue of Padraic Ó Conaire (now replicated on Eyre Square), the original is safely on display here, and there’s a Galway city hooker to see close up as well. You couldn’t visit Galway and not drop into St Nicholas’ Collegiate Church, with its rich history dating back to the 14th century and boasting the legend that this was the last port of call for Christopher Columbus before he headed across the Atlantic in 1477. Of course if you want to get the expert take on the city, you’re spoiled for choice on walking tours; from the straight-forward history tour to food and drink versions or a cycling excursion that allows you to cover a lot more ground, it’s a small investment for an overview of all the place has to offer. No one can truly say they’ve experienced Galway unless they’ve walked the Prom and kicked the wall; on a clear day you can see the coast of Clare and the Aran Islands – but even on a wet and windy day, it’s a bracing preamble to clear the sinuses! Well renowned as a city of festivals, Galway City has a year-round calendar of cul-

tural, culinary, arts and sports festival – with many of them regarded as some of the best in Ireland, and indeed Europe. To many, the highlight of the annual cultural calendar is the Galway International Arts Festival, a multidisciplinary festival that takes place every July in Galway City and covers a range of art forms, including theatre, dance, music, opera, street spectacle, visual arts, discus-

sion and comedy. This festival truly has something for everyone. No sooner does the Arts Festival end, the Galway Races Summer Festival comes around. Widely regarded as the highlight of the summer racing season in Ireland, the Galway Races offers fantastic horse racing, live music and entertainment, stunning fashion and family fun. The electric atmo-

sphere continues to draw people from all over Ireland and abroad to experience firsthand the infectious sense of excitement. The winter season offers its own popular attraction as Eyre Square is transformed into a Christmas wonderland for the Continental Christmas Market with a wide variety of entertainment as well as local arts and crafts stalls. Whether you arrive in festival season or not - you are sure to receive a warm welcome from the locals all year round, as Galway’s food and hospitality sector are second to none. Following on from a very successful year-long designation as European Region of Gastronomy in 2018, the culinary scene in Galway continues to thrive and is something every visitor should experience. Global travel company Travelzoo recently recommended Galway as best place to visit for Foodies in 2019. The city’s streets are lined with a variety of cafes and restaurants to suit any appetite – including Michelin Star establishments, family friendly restaurants as well as vegan and organic cafes. Given Galway’s proximity to the sea, there is also a wealth of the finest seafood Ireland has to offer. Recommended by the prestigious National Geographic Traveller as one of their best trips to take for 2019, amongst the ‘world’s most exciting destinations for the year ahead’, Galway City is truly not to be missed. So go ahead, dive into the Wild Atlantic Way – mix with the locals on the city’s medieval streets at the weekly markets, savour Galway Bay oysters, relax with a pint of Guinness on Quay Street, relive Galway’s history with a visit to the Galway City Museum, be awed and amazed as Macnas unleash creative chaos and invention on the streets, sing and dance into the early hours at a traditional Irish music session – you may never feel like leaving!

his is the summer of the staycation! Where better to pack your bags and head West than Galway city with the perfect four-day stay for you to explore. Base yourself in The Latin Quarter Galway’s cultural heart where you can stay, shop, socialise and soak up the ambiance of the area. Whether it’s a day spent touring Connemara, hitting the road to The Burren and Cliffs of Moher, set sail to the Aran Islands or explore by foot the City of the Tribes.. there really is something for all the family. To offer a warm ‘Cead Mile Failte’ to all visitors, The Latin Quarter is welcoming holidaymakers with flags and bunting representing each county decorating the vibrant streetscapes. From Cork to Antrim, Donegal to Waterford, the 32 counties are all represented. With top class accommodation, over 50 restaurant and 20 bars, along with a vast selection of boutiques and retailers, not to mention large pedestranised areas with street entertainment.. The Latin Quarter, Galway is where your summer should be spent. For further details connect with The Latin Quarter on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Alternatively visit www.thelatinquarter.ie.

CYCLING THE WEST OF IRELAND

Close to Oughterard, Aughnanure Castle is a restored six storey tower house standing on a rocky islet. Between the western shore of Lough Corrib and the northern shore of Galway Bay, is a wild and uninhabited expanse of low granite hills, small tarns, bog and coniferous forest that offers superb, traffic-free cycling. The region to the south of Galway Bay, consisting of County Clare and part of County Galway is rich in both scenery and history. The pretty village of Clarinbridge, a few miles south of Galway, hosts an annual oyster festival – it is a good place to sample local shellfish.

Gort is a handsome 18th century market town. The market place has a weighing house, huge scales and pump. Nearby Coole Park was once the home of the author Lady Gregory. Nothing remains of the house except a magnificent avenue of cedars and a copper beech bearing the carved initials of many Irish literati including Shaw, Yeats and O’Casey. South of Gort is Kilmacduagh, a beautiful monastic site with several churches and a (slightly leaning) round tower. Ennis, the county town has a maze of arched tunnel passageways that link the narrow medieval streets. The ruined 13th century friary dominates the town. A few miles south

is Quin Abbey, and a little further on Bunratty Castle and Folk Park are major attractions for those with an interest in Ireland’s past. Due west from Ennis are the attractive Atlantic coastal resorts of Kilrush and Kilkee. South of Kilkee, the Loop Head Peninsula is a relatively undiscovered scenic gem. A ride around here is a never-to-be forgotten delight! Views from the Loop Head lighthouse are sublime. The Atlantic coastline north of Kilkee is a series of spectacular strands – some of Ireland’s best surfing resorts, such as Spanish Point and Lahinch are found here. North of Lahinch the majestic Cliffs of Moher that

RICH IN SCENERY AND HISTORY extend for 8 km along the coast are one of the most outstanding natural features in the country. The fishing village of Doolin at the northern end of the cliffs is famous for its traditional music sessions. Ferries to the Aran Islands run from Doolin harbour. A few miles inland, the colourful spa town of Lisdoonvarna finds fame as the matchmaking capital of Ireland. Come in September if you are looking for a life partner. In the north west of Clare is the unique area called The Burren – apart from its unique beauty this vast limestone plateau is packed with interest for geologists and botanists. The stark bare rock resembling a lunar landscape is littered with dolmens, cairns, round towers and Celtic crosses. The Burren Interpretative Centre is at Kilfenora. The coast road north from Doolin to Ballyvaughan is another cycling gem – dolphins and seals can often be seen from the viewpoint at Black Head. Just south of Ballyvaughan are the Ailwee Caves, and the much photographed Poulnabrone Dolmen. In the Eastern Burren, the village of Corofin hosts the Clare Heritage Centre and Museum. The restored castle of Dysert O’Dea, the site of an ancient hermitage, is a short distance from the town. The wonderful Burren Perfumery at Carron uses native plants to create products inspired by the surrounding landscape. The picturesque village of Kinvarra on the southern shores of Galway Bay is a great place to view and photograph the famous Galway hookers (traditional sailing boats – in case you were wondering!). On the edge of the town, Dunaguaire Castle is a restored 16th Century fortification. Rossaveal is the departure point for ferries making the 40 minute crossing to Inishmore, largest of the three Aran Islands that guard the entrance to Galway Bay. The islands are the summits of a tilted reef that stretches out from the limestone surface of The Burren. The islanders are fiercely proud of their culture and traditions – and Irish remains the principal language. Attractions include dramatic cliff-top forts such as Dun Aengus and the Black Fort, local crafts including the knitwear that bears the Aran name, and traditional music sessions. The bicycle and the pony and trap are the most common forms of transport on the islands. The sublime beauty of Connemara, a region that captures the essence of the West of Ireland, draws visitors from all around

the world. Bounded on the east by the two great loughs of Corrib and Mask and on the west, north and south by the Atlantic Ocean, Connemara is almost an island. The peaks of the Twelve Bens rise above a plain of bog lands, boulders and black lakes that combine to produce a unique landscape. The encircling coastline is a beautiful patchwork of little islands, mini-peninsulas and promontories. Semi-wild Connemara ponies graze on the coastal salt marshes – their prized qualities of hardiness, agility, intelligence and jumping ability are rooted in their environment. The Connemara roads go around rather than over the hills, so cycling is not too arduous. Clifden, the “capital” of Connemara, is a bustling market town. With its colourful shops and galleries, excellent restaurants, and lively pubs it is a great place to relax and enjoy the Connemara atmosphere. The Sky Road to the west of Clifden gives wonderful views over the surrounding coastline. Further to the north, Cleggan is the departure point for the ferry to the island of Inishbofin. Along the coast to the south of Clfden are the beautiful beaches at Coral Strand, Dogs Bay and Gurteen Bay. Just outside Ballyconneely is the spot where pioneer aviators Alcock and Brown crash landed after the first trans-Atlantic flight in 1919. Further along the coast Roundstone is a pretty fishing village with a craft centre that specializes in the manufacture of traditional instruments. The Connemara National Park covers a vast area, including the slopes of the Twelve Bens.

There are several hiking trails and an information and interpretative centre. Every turn in the road that wends its way through the lovely Lough Inagh Valley offers a new photo opportunity. Close to the village of Letterfrack, Kylemore Abbey occupies a stunning location. Now a Benedictine convent, it was originally built as a private home. The attractions include a scale replica of Norwich Cathedral and beautifully landscaped gardens. East from Kylemore, Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, is a spectacular natural deep water anchorage. There are short cruises on the fjord from Leenane. This village and its surroundings were the location for the film “The Field”. Over the hills from the Maam Valley lies Joyces Country and the beautiful lakes of Nafooey, Mask and Cong. In the village of Cong, Cong Abbey and Ashford Castle are the main attractions. The village was the setting for “The Quiet Man”. The Partry Mountains, a sparsely inhabited upland region between Cong and Clew Bay provide some

wonderful cycling routes. Westport is a bustling centre that grew up around Westport House, the stately home of the Earl of Sligo. The town is an intriguing mix of the old and the new, with traditional shop fronts alongside continental style cafes. There are plenty of opportunities to listen to traditional music in the evenings. West along the shores of island-strewn Clew Bay is the village of Murrisk, site of Murrisk Abbey and the starting point for the ascent of Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s holiest mountain. St Patrick is reputed to have spent 40 days fasting on the summit – his discomfort must have been somewhat alleviated by the great views! Close by is the striking sculpture that is the National Famine Memorial. Further to the west, Louisburgh was the birthplace of the legendary pirate queen, Grace O’Malley. To the south between the Mweelrea Mountains and the Sheeffry Hills lies the hauntingly beautiful Doolough Valley – made even more poignant by the memorial to the victims of the Irish famine who died during a winter trek in a fruitless quest for food.

Bicycle Shop on the Wild Atlantic Way and the Euro Velo 1 Atlantic Coast Route email: doolinrentabike@gmail.com

SALES BICYCLE REPAIRS OUTFITTERS FOR THE LONG-DISTANCE TRAVELLER AND DAY TRIPPER

LIFE AND WORK ON INISHTURK

A teacher’s story also reveals culture and history of this Connemara island

S island life the stuff of dreams … of pulling away … of being alone … of starting an idyllic new life from scratch ... or is it blighted by drudgery, poor diet and domestic discomfort, foul weather, isolation and those hard times we pray will come again no more? Professor Lucy Collins, of UCD, asked these hard questions about islands, the places and the people who populate them at the recent Clifden Arts Festival. She was giving a talk on the work of Cleggan poet, the late Richard Murphy, who has written much about islands, islanders and the sea. Such poets as Murphy are frequently associated with dreams, but we all have our own dreams and experiences, whether we ourselves are poets or peasants or fisher folk. However, what is the actuality? What is island life really like for the people who live and work out there on the Western seaboard? To discover whether it is drudgery or dreams – or a bit of both – we should turn to a new book by island schoolteacher Bernadette Conroy; Waves on the Shore – The Life and Times of a Connemara Island. Nothing sells like nostalgia. Old photographs, battered and framed pictures of past generations, books and songs, folk tales, ink-fading letters and yellowing old newspapers come to mind. Given that this ancient adage about nostalgia has a ring of truth to it, this attractively designed, illustrated, historically informative and entertainingly written book will be on the wish list of large numbers of people come Christmas. It will be in popular demand too from members of the Irish diaspora in the United States, Australia, England and elsewhere, particularly from people whose families have links with these extremities of Europe. Bernadette Conroy’s recollections and research are a unique insight into life on Inishturk South, where she was a highly respected member of the community. She has been there, seen it and done it, and has lived to tell this remarkable tale. Each Monday morning, she was rowed out to the island by currach from Eyrephort beach, having arrived there from her home on the Aughris Peninsula via Clifden and the Sky Road. From time to time, loud, stormy weather meant the crossing to Inishturk was not possible.

When she took up her post, Miss Conroy adapted quickly to the new curriculum being introduced into primary schools in Ireland in the early 1970s. She writes: “Many of the old teaching methods were being side-lined, and a new child-centred programme, inspired by the writings of Rousseau, Pestalozzi and Froebel, was coming on stream. “In the eyes of the reformers, traditional teacher-centred methods focusing on rote learning and memorisation would be abandoned in favour of a child-centred, task-based approach to learning.” Bernadette Conroy was initially boarded out with an island family, Martin and Mary O’Toole and their daughter, May, not to mention Carlo, their sheepdog and favourite pet. On her first day, as she left the house to go to school, the seven Burke children were making their way there too, in single file and in order of age “like the steps of a staircase” along the shore path that had been battered and broken by the “untamed, corrosive power of the waves and the wind”. The Burkes were joined in class by Margaret and Carmel Hannon, the youngest members of the only other school-going family on the island. The one-room school had been built at the start of the 20th century and was of weather-beaten, pebble-dashed granite with a pitched slate roof. Needless to say, the single classroom was poorly decorated but well-lit from high windows (specially put there so that the pupils could not look out of them) and warmed by a fire for which the class brought sods of turf from home to keep it going. Remarkably, there is no peat bog on Inish-

turk and the turf had to be brought in from the mainland by currach, which was hard and labour-intensive work. The once white, loose-limed walls of the classroom had, through years of neglect, turned an ugly shade of grey. And the old-fashioned primitive toilets were still in use, with a wall dividing the boys’ and girls’ sections. However, Miss Conroy, ably assisted by her enthusiastic pupils, breathed new life into the old place and re-introduced colour around the walls and hard-topped oak desks. These bore the carved initials of generations of island children, who had been educated there. The teacher purchased a record player, which was operated by both mains and batteries – “This appliance was very suitable for school use, and with an ample supply of operating material and records we were now well-equipped for the times to learn and perform lots of songs. It was a godsend!” There is much more to this book than just names on a school attendance register and work record. Miss Conroy has trawled deep into the islanders’ life and work; the births, marriages and deaths and tragedies, which inevitably blight our fishing communities. Drama and diet were often on the agenda for discussion around the fireplace, where pot and kettle had since time immemorial hung down above glowing sods of turf to bake bread and cook the dinner. In many ways, during these times, life on Inishturk would not have been fundamentally different from life on the mainland. While the infrastructure was minimal, it had the benefits of good spring water filtered from the hill, fertile soil, granite for house

building and access to fish, birds, driftwood and seaweed – all the richness of the sea. In the absence of electricity, which did not arrive on the island until 2003, there was no television on Inishturk. House visiting was the main pastime and there would be games of cards, usually 25, a fast paced game steeped in Irish origins. It took place sometimes in competition with people from the neighbouring island of Inishturbot, with groceries, tea and sugar and often a chicken as prizes. The usual stories of ghosts and fairies were told around the fire by the non-participants, and those knocked out of the card games, whose turn it was to sit out that session. However, with the coming of electricity, and long after the people had finally left the island, the ghosts, banshees and fairies appear to have vanished while the folklore lingers on. Of all the hardships endured by the islanders, one of the greatest lay in transferring cattle and other livestock between island and mainland. With the approach of Fair Day in Clifden, the islanders who wanted to sell their beasts would make them swim across the narrow channel to Eyrephort beach. Everyone helped, including the pupils from the school, to push and shove the cattle down to the water’s edge and out of their depth, to a waiting currach containing three men. The excitement on Fair days was palpable with men shouting, screaming children and barking dogs, which left no option for the animals but to rush wildly into the sea and be towed to their destination on the opposite shore. Bernadette Conroy stayed on in her post as Inishturk shed the last members of its indigenous population. This was despite her accommodation being a single room in an old house which was invaded by rats and mice and led to her contracting musophobia – a phobia involving extreme fear of rodents. She deserves great praise for her courage and her work and for the skilful way she has drawn together the fascinating material for this book. Waves on the Shore is available from The Clifden Bookshop, other good bookshops such as Kenny’s Books and Charlie Byrne’ s in Galway, and on-line from the usual outlets.

REVIEW BY BILL HEANEY

SOAK UP THE OLD-WORLD ATMOSPHERE OF CARRAROE INCLUDING COSTELLOE, LETTERMORE, ROSSAVEAL

arraroe is situated in the South of Connemara on the coast of Galway Bay. Carraroe is one of the most important areas for promoting Irish culture including song, dance and Irish Summer schools. It is very popular with other Irish-speaking holidaymakers. Not only is Carraroe wedged between Casla Bay and Greatman’s Bay, but it also has the whole series of islands composed of Lettermore, Gorumna and Lettermullen, all joined by causeway to the mainland. There is an old world atmosphere to be found here, with endless winding boreens and high granite walls leading to now silent turf quays and deserted beaches.

FÉILE AN DÓILÍN Féile an Dóilín is the west of Ireland’s premier maritime festival, taking place annually in Carraroe on the shores of Galway Bay. Celebrating this unique region’s rich maritime history, the festival has something to offer to everyone, young and old. The festival revolves around the ancient and beautiful Galway Hooker boat.

Galway Hookers are a distinctive form of native Irish boat, and beautiful Carraroe is the epicentre of their preservation and revival. Here the small number of Galway Hookers which are still in seaworthy condition are pitted against each other in the annual “Féile an Dóilín”, the largest Hooker festival in Ireland, and indeed one of the largest maritime festivals in the country. But Galway Hookers sail these waters throughout the year, gliding silently in and out between the headlands and the islands, their black voluminous hulls riding high on the water, and their bright rust coloured sails heeled over in the Atlantic wind. Up until the 1950s the Galway Hooker was the means by which all supplies and livestock were ferried in and out of the islands, and the Hooker’s hull was built wide and deep to accommodate heavy loads. From Paráid na bhFathach (Parade of the Giant) to the Parade of Sail, lectures on maritime history and boat-making exhibitions, there really is no better place in Ireland to spend the August Bank Holiday weekend. The aim of Féile an Dóilín is to promote the area’s maritime heritage. Carraroe’s Blue Flag beach, which trans-

lates into Irish as “Trá an Dóilin”, is set in an area of great natural beauty. The beach is noted for its very fine coral, one of just two beaches on the West of Ireland with coral shingle. There are lots of little rock pools to explore, as well as excellent scuba diving, and snorkeling opportunities.

CONNEMARA ISLES GOLF CLUB Connemara Isles Golf Club is located in the heart of the Connemara Gaeltacht. This distinctive island course offers a unique opportunity to play golf on the edge of the Atlantic ocean while enjoying the breathtaking views of Cill Chiaráin Bay, Cnoc Leitir Móir and Cnoc Mordáin. This 9 hole golf course is a golfers’ gem. Playing the first 9 holes is a challenge, however playing the back 9 tees is a memory. After the game relax in the friendly atmosphere of Irelands only thatched club house and experience the magical beauty of the Irish language. For the angler, Loughaunwillin, or Carraroe Lough, lies to the north of the village. It holds a big stock of wild trout averaging about 6 oz, and is stocked with trout averaging 1.5 lb.

FOLLOW THE COAST Carraroe is surrounded by beautiful coastal towns. Don’t miss Lettermore and Kilkieran if you are travelling north, and Rossaveel, and An Spidéal, if you are travelling south.

THINGS TO DO IN CARRAROE 1. “Labhair Gaeilge”. The local shops and cafes will be delighted to have you practice your Irish. Don’t be shy about trying out your “cupla focal”. 2. You have to swim on “Trá an Dóilin” just one of two Irish beaches with coral shingle. Be aware however that visitors are asked not to remove pieces of the coral. 3. Potter around Caladh Thadhg pier and enjoy the presence of traditional boats. Ask locally if any boats are being made in the area, and if possible get to visit. 4. Carraroe is perfect cycling territory, and indeed views like these are best seen from a bicycle. Put your bike in the back of your car and take to two wheels as soon as you arrive.

KINVARA K

invara - “The Head of the Sea”, and gateway to the Burren in County Clare, is County Galway’s only prominent sea village on the southern shores of Galway Bay. Situated at the head of Kinvara Bay, it once was a thriving port to which the necessities of life, such as turf fuel, were brought by the traditional Connemara sailing craft in the 19th century. This trade is recalled each Summer in Cruinniu na mBad, a sea festival organised by the village, which sees the old boats compete in a host of exciting races and events. One of Kinvara’s hotels has the biggest thatch roof in Ireland, The Pier Head beside Kinvara’s pier and Keoghs pub all lend Kinvara character. The town of Kinvara has all you need for a weekend away like pubs, hotels, B&B, launderette, shops and a bicycle shop to rent a bicycle. Dunguaire Castle guards this end of the bay, and is one of the most popular tourist spots in County Galway. The castle’s 75 foot-tower and its defensive wall have been restored to excellent condition, and the grounds are open to tourists during the summer. It is thought to be the most-photographed castle in Ireland. Kinvara’s Dunguaire Castle is one of the most enchanting and picture-perfect castles in the West of Ireland and, with the added appeal of its waterside setting, it is also one of the most photogenic. Kinvara Castle has a curious and colourful history, having changed hands many times since it was first built in by the O Hynes in 1520. Once upon a time the High King of Connaught, “Guaire”, was feasting with his warriors at the castle when the hermit Saint Colman, who had

ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR TOURIST SPOTS IN GALWAY

been fasting on the mountain for forty days, called on God to provide sustenance. Miraculously Guaire’s food was seen to fly from the plates in the castle up through the air to the saint’s altar in Carron. And perhaps this story is true, and perhaps it is not, but whatever the circumstances behind the tale, it has held fast over the centuries in Kinvara, and is told to this day with a straight face with all the solemnity of a high mass. Medieval-type banquets are held each summer in this old 16th century tower house, and recall the stirring times when the O’Heynes, O’Shaughnessy and Martin clans were lords of this impressively restored castle. This tradition of feasting in Kinvara Castle continues to this day with opulent medieval banquets being held nightly throughout the summer months. You can enjoy the very same kind of food, merriment and music, as did Guaire and his followers all those years ago. Guests gather in Kinvara’s great hall to be welcomed to the extravaganza by costumed entertainers and the sounds of tinkling harps. And then it’s off to the banqueting hall for a night of feasting, music, and debauchery (well feasting and music anyway). And local micro-brewed “meade” does battle with wine, and wax dripping candles light the medieval chamber. Let the feasting begin…. The prolific hosts at Kinvara Castle introduce each of the four great courses, weaving in stories of local tradition and folklore that work seamlessly and sometimes hilariously. After the meal, a very entertaining mix of poetry, music and storytelling is enacted, the highlight being the awarding of a special

souvenir Claddagh ring to some unsuspecting visitor in the audience. The whole event is a wonderfully atmospheric evening which should not be missed. The castle was built by the Hynes clan in 1520, a family who may have been associated with the area since 662, when the site is believed to have once been the royal palace of Guaire Aidhne, the legendary king of Connacht and progenitor of the clan. Dunguaire Castle was transferred in the 17th century to Oliver Martin, (father of Richard Martin Fitz Oliver). It remained in his family until it was purchased in the early 20th century by the surgeon and poet Oliver St John Gogarty. Gogarty began restoring the castle and established it as the meeting place for the leading figures of the Celtic Revival, such as WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, Lady Augusta Gregory and John Millington Synge. The castle was acquired in 1954 by Christobel Lady Ampthill, who completed the restoration work started by Gogarty. It was later purchased by Shannon Development. Just to the east of the building are the probable remains of the dun or earthen fort of Guaire, the 7th century King of Connacht, who gives his name to the present castle. To the west of the village stands the early 19th century church which contains restored paintings by Count de Basterot, a famous writer and traveller of the time. His residence, Doorus House, now a youth hostel, lies 5 km further west again and it was here that WB Yeats and Lady Gregory, in association with Edward Martyn, planned the foundation of the Irish National Theatre.

◀◀ Cathedral, Galway City

GETTING TO KINVARA By bus, or car. Bus Eireann Route 423 provides a regular service from Galway to Kinvara. Alternatively follow the N6 south from Galway to Kilcolgan, and then the N67 to Kinvara.

FOLLOW THE COAST Kinvara is surrounded by beautiful coastal towns. Don’t miss Clarinbridge and Galway if you are travelling north, and Ballyvaughan, and The Burren, if you are travelling south.

WHERE TO STAY Kinvara offers a range of accommodation types, from guesthouses, to holiday cottages, and home B&Bs.

THINGS TO DO IN KINVARA 1. Explore the Farmers’ Country Market which is held in the Square most Saturdays throughout the summer months. 2. Explore the shores of Kinvara Bay. Follow the walking trails both to the south and the north of the village. 3. Enjoy dinner in “The Pier Head”. Popular with yachties who tie up out front, this modern restaurant has views over the brine. Food includes local lobster cooked in garlic, mussels and oysters – lots of oysters. The pub has live music at weekends. 4. Visit Keogh’s Pub and Restaurant, where you’ll often hear Irish spoken. Traditional music sessions take place on Mondays and Thursdays, while Saturday nights swing with old-time dancing.

TOURING THE CHURCHES TO GET A SENSE OF HERITAGE AND PLACE I by Dave O’Connell

t’s the thing tourists do that often has little or nothing to do with belief or religion – but when we go away to foreign parts, we almost invariably take a tour of the local Cathedral. Perhaps it’s because it often appears that the city was built around its most magnificent place of worship – or that at the very least, it occupies the city’s focal point – but it gives you a sense of the city and its history all under one roof. And even without a religious bone in your body, you will stand there, gazing skywards in awe at the craftwork and years of toil that went into completing these magnificent structures. Of course, Galway Cathedral is equally a massive attraction for visitors who come here, even if its history – in church terms – has only just begun. That depth of history is clear in abundance at St Nicholas’ Collegiate Church in the heart of the city; a magnificent building with an awe-inspiring presence and a story stretching back to Christopher Columbus and beyond. Of course Tuam and Loughrea also boast their Cathedrals, and we have a whole web of old monasteries, albeit largely in ruins, right across the county. But what about the smaller Churches and places of worship – of all creeds and denom-

inations – that we also boast in abundance? Sometimes you have to look through a visitor’s eyes to see the treasures on your own doorstep – and even then it helps if you have a hand to guide you…as in the case of a new inventory of Galway’s rich ecclesiastical history. They might not seem like a major tourist attraction in a county blessed with spectacular scenery and towns where culture flows like the craic. But this is a journey for the mind – and it’s aided by a new publication that means you can inform yourself on your travels….for free. Equally, just as there are those who love visiting cemeteries, taking in all of the history of a place, there are those who stop off in churches – not necessarily to worship, but just to see their history and majesty. An Illustrated Guide to the Ecclesiastical Heritage of the County of Galway – published in Irish and English earlier this year – is your guide book on your travels, covering the art and architecture in 140 Galway churches. The scale of this ecclesiastical audit might explain why it has been six years in the making, but what has resulted is a forensic guide to these historic buildings right across the city and county. Zena Hoctor and Dr Christy Cunniffe have audited 1,140 pieces of art, taken over 2,400

photographs and identified 121 artists in the course of this audit. As Galway County Council Heritage Office Marie Mannion put it at the launch: “They left no stone unturned with regards to in-depth desk and field research for each present-day working church and its associated artwork”. This 187 page publication, draws on audit reports, a photographic archive and documented findings at the end of an exhaustive audit to record all identified artworks, furniture and fittings across this historic network. That involved consultation with stakeholders, including the church clergy, custodians, the local communities and the various artists associated with the artworks. A number of websites and online databases were also consulted for information on artists and architects working in the field of church art and architecture in Ireland. And the publication means you can do this at your leisure; take a small section of the country and explore these ecclesiastical treasures on our doorstep in your own time – and for free. An Illustrated Guide to the Ecclesiastical Heritage of the County of Galway was funded by the Heritage Council and Galway County Council. Limited copies of the publication are available free of charge from the Heritage Office at Galway County Council.

TIME FOR PAMPERING AFTER THE LOCKDOWN A by Denise McNamara

fter so many weeks of being largely confined to four walls, the prospect of being able to fly the nest to more salubrious environs may give us a little cause for optimism in the depths of this pandemic. And when hotels once again throw their doors open, I think most of us frazzled beings will deserve a wee bit of pampering. Over the years I’ve been fortunate enough to visit a fair few spas across this land to review so there’s never been a better time to do a recap on the best of them so we can put them on a wish list of places to visit now that travelling abroad is out of the equation this summer. And once the lockdown is over, expect many of them to offer great deals to get us to part with our cash. Staying in the hotel where the spa is located is not necessary if you are budgeting so you can always while away a few hours in a little luxury and have a treatment, use the thermal suite, pool or jacuzzi while not breaking the bank. This is particularly true if you live in Galway because we have two of the best spas in the country located in the city. Spending a fortune staying over may not make sense in these times. The Galmont Hotel always has excellent packages on offer with such a variety of facilities in the thermal suite you could easily spend four hours here without getting bored. There is a sabia med or beach room with sand which takes you through a meditative dawn to dusk light cycle and a fab hammam or Turkish steam room with light and essential oil therapy. My personal favourite is the aroma grotto, which releases essential oils in a steam room where different coloured lights come on in cycles. You leave here with conditioned hair and skin as well as feeling incredibly relaxed. You have to leave the thermal suite to go for a swim upstairs but it will be worth the effort as the pool is lovely as is the outdoor jacuzzi overlooking Lough Atalia. I could easily spend

▲▲ Ease out those tense shoulders in the vitality pool of the g Hotel spa

▲▲ After your treatment head to the rooftop bar for afternoon tea in the Lough Rea Hotel & Spa

an hour here, so my advice is try and pick a quiet time for your visit, avoiding Saturdays if possible. Across Lough Atalia is the quintessential Celtic Tiger symbol of Galway – the g Hotel, designed by Galway’s famous milliner to the stars, PhilipTreacy. You should try to combine a visit to this spa in a package – they often do a great afternoon tea with a treatment or a trip to the cinema, making it such a treat for a special birthday or gathering. There isn’t a full-length pool here but they have the best hydrotherapy jets of any pool I’ve tried in Ireland – as good as any massage. They are so fierce you have to hold onto the bars to stay in the pods. My other favourite part of this spa is the zen bamboo garden where you can lie on adjust-

able beds while you munch on dried fruit and drink herbal tea as the trees float in the breeze. It’s really rejuvenating to spend an hour here in your fluffy robe after a treatment. If you are in need of a break by the sea, one of the loveliest hotels I’ve stayed in recent years is the Connemara Sands Hotel overlooking Mannin Bay outside Ballyconneely. The hotel which is run by a dynamic husband and wife team Dean and Kathy Gibson who moved back from New York to her homeplace. The interiors are funky, the food amazing and the views to die for. The place is geared up for families, with its self-contained chalets, almost private white sandy beach as well as bikes, paddle boards and a tennis court. It is a short cycle from here to Derrygimlagh site celebrating the Marconi Wireless Station and the first Transatlantic air

crossing by Alcock and Brown. It is one of the key 15 signature discovery points along the Wild Atlantic Way and boasts a bog walk and picnic areas. If you are more into lakes, the Lough Rea Hotel boasts a spectacular panoramic view over the town’s stunning grey lake from the rooftop terrace. I’ve never had a bad meal in this establishment – the dining room has recently had a stylish makeover - and have enjoyed some excellent facials in the spa where you can enjoy the jacuzzi. They generally offer a treatment combined with an afternoon tea here and weather permitting you should certainly head upstairs to indulge on the terrace. They also make a mean cocktail if you are lucky enough to be staying over. This hotel is known for attracting some of the country’s top musical artists and comedians so keep an eye on their Facebook page when that programme kicks in again. Over the Clare border, the Inn at Dromoland may not have a spa but it is one of the best family friendly hotels in the west of Ireland and always offers incredibly good value given its location on a stunning 450-acre estate. As well as a decent swimming pool, the hotel boasts a 5,000 ft indoor play area with

a tunnel slide, ball pool, mazes and climbing obstacles. Beside this there is an indoor soccer zone for a kick about on those rainy days. If the weather is on your side, you can spend hours exploring the walks around Dromoland Castle overlooking the Shannon Estuary and have tea in one their carefully manicured gardens.

As well as a playground, there is a crazy golf course and a course for foot golf. Heading north to Mayo, one of the nicest spas along the coast is in the chic Ice House Hotel along a historic quay in Ballina. The treatment rooms all boast wall to ceiling views of the River Moy and you will find it hard to turn your head away from the pan-

orama as you dip into the two hot tubs on the riverside deck, rain or shine. If you can afford at all to splash out, this is one place to do it – two of my friends and I went here midweek and shared a riverside suite for one memorable night. We still talk about how it felt like we were overseas. And that, for now, is only a pipe dream.

BLUE FLAG FLYING AT KILRUSH MARINA BY GERRY MCINERNEY

F ▲▲ A magical moment captured at Pádraig Pearse’s cottage in Rosmuc by Patrick Skehan.

GALWAY’S WEALTH OF RICHES TO DELIGHT ‘STAYCATIONERS’ BY PEADAR O’DOWD

es, we have another buzzword to stretch the English language further. ‘Staycation’ is a relatively new recruit to the general conversation in this new era of pandemic alarm. To go on holidays overseas or stay at home and tour the ‘Green Isle’ instead, on health and safety grounds – that’s the question occupying many minds today. The health of a nation’s people versus its economic prosperity is a conundrum facing many countries and Ireland is no exception. For the moment, the medical advice is to go the staycation route and enjoy the natural and heritage delights this country has to offer. Naturally, I’d say that Galway, city and county, tops both lists in so many ways. Taking the county areas first, the historic, and even the pre-historic eras have left many monuments dotting our landscape. From the crumbling Stone-Age portal dolmen in Menlo, to the fine Bronze-Age standing stone at Roscam, and on to the magnificent Iron-Age forts of Aran, we can compete with the best. Then from the Early Christian period, we have round towers such as that at Kilmacduagh near Gort, and even one, again in Roscam, within the city boundary now. Meanwhile at Clonfert in East Galway, with its famous doorcase, not forgetting its St Brendan connection, it’s plain to see that the footprint of early Christianity is firmly entrenched in our

soil. In this regard also, we must not forget the Hill at Maumeen in Connemara and its St Patrick folklore. Sadly, warfare is also imprinted on our landscape, with early de Burgo castles rising high over more than the fields of Athenry. Later tower houses, such as Dunguaire in Kinvara, Thoor Ballylee near Gort, and the recently restored example at Claregalway, are fine examples to visit and admire while on staycation. As time passed, mansions evolved and this can be seen in Portumna Castle (built by the descendants of the de Burgos), overlooking Shannon waters, and in Connemara, where further examples at Ballynahinch and Kylemore Abbey demand viewing by staycationers. Needless to say, Galway’s natural landscapes, in the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way, will also enthral the ‘staycation’ enthusiast. These range from the famous mountain ranges of Connemara to its massive Atlantic coastline. Off the latter, renowned islands ranging from the famous Aran trio to Omey Island near Clifden and Inishbofin off Cleggan should also be on any visitor’s list. Sea and mountain scenery abound, but Connemara offers even more to people who opt for a home holiday. Its numerous beaches all the way, via Roundstone into Silver Strand on the outskirts of Galway City, offer swimming delights, and other sports such as sea angling. And there’s the prospect of trout and salmon

adventures in its numerous lakes and rivers. It provides much more of course, such as being a haven and a heaven for Irish language enthusiasts. As well, the visitor centre in Rosmuc, exploring Pádraig Pearse’s connection with the area and his role in Irish history will surely attract people from every part of the country. Galway City, in its own right, will also draw much acclaim from any visiting soul. Its late-medieval past is very much evident in its de Burgo town wall and towers, which are now star attractions inside the Eyre Square Shopping Centre. See also the excavated Red Earl Hall at Druid Lane. The city’s religious ethos is typified in the long-standing Church of St Nicholas, dating from 1320, while the massive presence of Galway Cathedral, which opened in 1965, underlines continued devotion to the wide church of the Christian faith. As well, Galway’s status as a former major European trading port is recalled in its famous 1651 Pictorial Map, and in its remaining stone town tower-houses represented by Lynch’s Castle and also Blake’s Castle, the latter facing the city’s famous Spanish Arch bastion, built in 1586, actually to keep the Spanish out! Mystery also adds to the charm and attraction of our city, not least the aforementioned Spanish Arch, which was finally fully opened c.1701, while only getting its present title in the late 19th Century. Then, we have the enigmatic Lynch Memorial Window in Mar-

ket Street from which a Lynch mayor is said to have hanged his son in the 15th Century – from a window dating to the 17th Century! Not far away, in High Street, is the famous King’s Head Pub, truly associated with a nice chap named Stubbers, who is associated with the beheading of King Charles 1. Further down, lies Tigh Neachtain, former town house of ‘Humanity Dick’ Martin, who helped the fight against cruelty to animals. Ironically, he was also known as ‘Hair-trigger Dick’ for his prowess on the duelling field, where he was not so kind to his fellow man! There is much more, of course, to whet the ‘staycation’ appetite. These include our various riverside walks, with trees to match. Then, there are the delights of our long seaside prom at Salthill and all it entails, such as the nearby impressive National Aquarium of Ireland, much loved by young and old, native and visitor alike. There is more to offer, now with so many recreational facilities re-opening, including food, drink and hotel establishments, albeit under new conditions unheard of just a few short months ago. Things have certainly changed now, as they have done since a young John O’Dowd, from Enniscrone in County Sligo, my father, came to a much smaller Galway on his version of a long ‘staycation’ nearly a hundred years ago. Thankfully, he took the ‘stay’ out of the ‘cation’, and settled here, far from O’Dowda territory. If he didn’t, I doubt very much if you would be reading these few words right now!

IFTEEN years since the Blue Flag was last unfurled at Kilrush Marina, the most globally recognised voluntary eco-label once again flies proudly at the 120-berth locked marina in the harbour. The iconic blue flag, awarded by An Taisce, is a symbol of acknowledgement that Kilrush Marina, built in 1991 and under the managership of Kilrush Maritime Ltd since July 2014, meets the stringent criteria as regards environmental and quality standards. Since the takeover, the marina has seen significant investment in infrastructure. Former Commodore of West of Ireland Offshore Racing Association and Irish Cruiser Racing Association and previous board member of Irish Sailing, Simon McGibney, was appointed manager in 2018 and had made achieving Blue Flag status one of his main targets. Given that the marina is a customer-driven facility, the marina manager accepts that the latest accolade is good for business. “I came on board in 2018 and last year we applied but unfortunately we didn’t meet the

criteria. We got plenty of advice and guidance with the application process from Ian Diamond, coastal awards manager for An Taisce, and Susan Vickers, Clean Coasts officer. “Susan undertook a site visit and pointed out what measures and action we needed to take. We’ve implemented clean-ups around the marina and outside the lock gates, stuff

like that. We don’t have a pump-out station but we have a deal done with Clean Ireland so that if a visiting yacht comes in and wants to be pumped out, we engaged Clean Ireland. “The application process is extensive and requires not just meeting the criteria for water standard but also providing educational information, an environmental man-

agement plan and meeting safety criteria in the protection of the local environment. “It is a massive bonus to have the Blue Flag. It just shows we are living up to the environmental standards of the Blue Flag and on the educational side of it as well. It’s absolutely massive and very important for us to have this recognition,” adds Simon.

Welcome to

Connemara The Connemara Chamber of Commerce welcomes you to the beautiful West. Make a break for it to beautiful Connemara. Connemara is waiting for you. Come enjoy our beautiful beaches, our warm welcome and spectacular scenery. We all need to make a break for it this year and with our fabulous restaurants, exciting activities and wonderful shops, Connemara is the perfect place for your Staycation.

A HOLIDAY TRAIL OF DIVERSE ATTRACTIONS

A by Austin Hobbs

NEW designated cycling route on Clare’s coast roads offers something special for those who want an active holiday. Clare County Council’s implementation of a EuroVelo 1 route is a major boost to cycling tourism in the county. Part of a European tourism initiative, the 317km stage in Clare has been identified and assessed as a joint venture between the council and Sport Ireland, and complements the Department of Transport, Tourism and Sport’s wider investment in Greenways and cycling infrastructure in urban areas. Funding provides for signage, bike repair stands, information boards and cycle racks along the stage through Clare. EuroVelo 1 stretches from Norway to Portugal via Ireland and targets long-distance cyclists but also provides routes for users of all abilities, as the criteria for inclusion specify lower-trafficked roads as well as Greenways. The Clare section forms part of a network of 17 long-distance cycle routes throughout Europe and it enters Clare via counties Galway and Limerick. The route mapped out is from Limerick City to Quin, back along the Shannon Estuary to Loop Head, then following the coast to Ballyvaughan and taking in part of the Burren on the way to Kinvara. Along the way at Spanish Point, cyclists can call into the Armada Hotel where you

might encounter the owner, John Burke, the man who scaled Mount Everest a couple of years ago. Inland is Miltown Malbay, where visitors can see the statue of the famous piper Willie Clancy after whom the annual music summer school is named. Ennistymon offers visitors an opportunity to see some of the finest traditional shop fronts in the country, while, if the River Inagh is in flood, the cascades that start at the town’s bridge are spectacular. The Falls Hotel was once the home of Caitlín MacNamara, who married the famous Welsh poet Dylan Thomas. Lahinch, always popular as a seaside resort, attracted international attention last year when its golf course hosted the Irish Open. So, whether it’s for swimming or golf, Lahinch is a great destination. With the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren within a few miles, people can take it all in in a day, whether cycling or driving. The North Clare area draws many walking tourists and endless green roads provide them with landscape and seascape views, as well as a stark reminder of times of hardship in deserted farmsteads and villages. Worth calling to are Moher Farm, Doolin Cave and Aillwee Cave and the Birds of Prey Centre, where in each case visitors will be in smaller groups and timed further apart to comply with social distancing. Something out of the ordinary is John Davoren’s sheepdog demonstrations at

Caherconnell Stone Fort. With social distancing guidelines still in place, John has trained his sheepdogs to show this in rounding up into separate pods. The fort attracts people from all over the world as day visitors but the importance of the 1,000-year-old settlement has resulted in a collaboration with NUI Galway and colleges in the US to give accreditation to students for summer archaeological excavations. Slightly off the beaten path but well worth visiting is Michael Cusack’s cottage in Carron. The cottage has been painstakingly restored and at a separate museum, visitors can learn about the GAA founder’s family and his involvement in sport, education and the nationalist cause. Kilfenora’s ecclesiastical history is remarkable and its cathedral shows a curious mix of styles from several periods. The oldest part likely is the north wall of the nave and this turn-of-the-firstmillennium building may have been aisled. The nave is now used for worship by the Church of Ireland, for which it was reconstructed around 1850. It features a bishop’s throne, donated in 1981. There is also a large square stone baptismal font (possibly from around 1200). In addition, the church contains various tombs and the remains of high crosses. On a lighter note, various areas in the village featured in the iconic TV series Father Ted.

RENVYLE HOUSE WINS HISTORIC HOTEL COUNTRYSIDE AWARD A n iconic Connemara hotel was among the big winners at this year’s Historic Hotels of Europe 2020 Awards in Vienna. Renvyle House Hotel won the Historic Hotel Countryside Award in Austria at an event designed to celebrate exceptional and fascinating properties of the Historic Hotels of Europe Collection. Historic Hotels of Europe handpick beautiful properties in captivating destinations across the continent of Europe, all inspired by millennia of prosperity, charm, intrigue, romance and cultured creativity. They include an eclectic range of historic properties across Europe with each hotel providing exceptional standards of hospitality and service, boasting fine dining and the very best in modern luxury while championing Europe’s historical heritage. “We are so delighted to have won this award;

The Pier Head Bar & Restaurant is situated along the Wild Atlantic Way in the picturesque seaport village of Kinvara, County Galway. We are renowned for our full a la carte menu specialising in fresh seafood and locally sourced beef and lamb. All tastes are catered for and there is an extensive wine menu as well as a full bar. Bread is baked daily by our in-house pastry chef and the mouth-watering dessert menu varies regularly.

it’s huge recognition for Renvyle House Hotel and the stunning region we are located in,” said chairman Zoë Fitzgerald. Renvyle House was first opened as a hotel in 1883 by Caroline Blake – but it had enjoyed a colourful history even before then. It was then operated by Oliver St John Gogarty and his wife before Mrs Fitzgerald’s grandfather, Dr Donny Coyle, bought it with two friends John Allen and Michael O’Malley in the early 1950s. It has been in the Coyle family for over 65 years with owner John D Coyle still very much involved. “I was recently looking at old brochures from 100 years ago; we have the very same emphasis today on warm, welcoming hospitality, great food and lovely service provided by a great team” added Zoë. “It was great to be able to return to Connemara with this for the region and our wonderful team at Renvyle House”.

The downstairs restaurant overlooks the quay and Kinvara Bay, with Dunguaire Castle nearby. The more formal upstairs room has panoramic views and is available for diners as well as private parties. We are open Monday to Saturday from 2-9pm and Sunday from 12-9pm. Ring 091 638188 or 087 2258985 to book.

The Quay, Kinvara, Co. Galway www.pierheadkinvara.ie

SOUTH GALWAY

MANY ATTRACTIONS FOR THE DAY TRIPPER

CLARINBRIDGE

tember of each year. The sea has played, and continues to play a pivotal role in the life of Clarinbridge. From our shallow, sheltered shores come our most famous export, the renowed Clarinbridge Oyster. September 1 ends the oysters honeymoon and the eating season opens with the Gala Oyster Celebration in the festival marquee. That’s when oyster lovers have headed for Clarinbridge for over 50 years, to sample what are recognised as “probably the most succulent Oysters in the World!”

The Village of Clarinbridge is south of Oranmore, close to the head of Dunbulcaun Bay, the most easterly inlet of Galway Bay. The name Clarinbridge derives from the bridge across the Clarin River and the river took its name from the plank bridge that succeeded the original hurdle crossing. Beside the Clarinbridge River there is an earthwork which is reputed to have been a medieval fortification. On the east coast close to the Ballynamanagh bridge, is Dunbulcaun, a ringfort with a mottetype, central mound.

MORAN’S OYSTER COTTAGE Moran’s Oyster Cottage, The Weir, Kilcolgan, dates back almost three hundred years and is now run by the seventh generation of the Moran family. It is renowned the world over for its superb seafood which attracts people from the five continents, and is open all year round.

KILCOLGAN CASTLE Kilcolgan Castle is located on the banks of the Kilcolgan river, over-looking Galway Bay. The castle which dates from the 11th Century was rebuilt by the St George Family in the late 18th Century. It has been extensively but sensitively refurbished by the late Hon WN Gustafson von Hillerstamm and now hosted by his daughter Karen.

TYRONE HOUSE Built in 1779, Tyrone House, is situated on a promontory by the sea, about two miles from the village of Kilcolgan. It was a big solemn house, grandly planned, three stories high, built on a height, in order to dominate the surrounding land and sea.

KILCORNAN HOUSE The front faced south, and the northern side was protected by dense woods, beyond which lay the Kilcolgan river. Its original owner was Christopher St George. In 1972, the Irish Georgian Society acquired the ruin of Tyrone.

OYSTER FESTIVAL

Clarinbridge is famous worldwide for its Oyster Festival in Sep-

Original home of the Redingtons, the local benevolent landlords, with its impressive avenue. The house now serves as a training centre for people with learning disabilities. The Redingtons of Kilcornan were responsible for the development and design of the pretty village which has at its heart a walled village green in which stands an imposing cenotaph to Thomas N Redington.

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE HISTORY OF ATHENRY CASTLE

thenry is one of the most notable medieval walled towns surviving in Ireland, owing its foundation to Meiler de Bermingham who built his castle there c.1250. The oldest part of the castle is the hall-keep. It is a large rectangular building originally containing only a hall at first-floor level and dark storerooms at ground level. For extra strength the lower part of the wall slopes out to form what is called a batter. The only original entrance was at first-floor level and would have been reached by an external wooden stairs similar to the present reconstruction. This gave direct access to the hall, the official and ceremonial reception room of the castle, where the lord received guests and tenants and presided over the manor court. Heat was probably provided originally by a brazier in the centre of the hall, with the smoke exiting through a louver or opening in the roof directly above. The garderobe or toilet is located diagonally across from the main entrance to the hall.

The fine carving on the exterior of the doorway and on the inner side of two of the window openings bears witness to the importance of the hall. The capitals in both cases are carved with floral motifs in local style, known as the “School of the West”, transitional between Romanesque and Gothic. Dating from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, this style can be found at the abbeys of Cong, Ballintubber and Boyle. The battlements are original 13th century work with tall arrow loops or slits in the solid sections or merlons. In the 15th century, these parapets were incorporated into steeply pitched gables at the north and south ends, for a new roof at this level. Parts of the original enclosure wall of the castle survive. Access to ground floor of castle for visitors with disabilities. Location: In the centre of Athenry town. (Heritage Town). Bus Route(s): Contact Bus Eireann, Travel Centre +353 (1) 836 6111. Guided Tours: Available on request. Maximum number: 40. Duration: 45 minutes.

Purveyors of ﬁne foods & wines since 1925, McCambridge’s is family run business located in the heart of Galway city. Proud stockists of the best of Irish produce. Order a coffee and one of our homemade cakes and watch the bustle of the city from our window or outdoor seating area. Our tradition of excellence is continued upstairs in our restaurant, here you can enjoy a glass of wine and a tasty dish from our menu where we have a strong preference for local artisan produce. We are all about a casual atmosphere with great food! All day menu is served MondayThursday 10am-4pm & Friday, Saturday until 5pm. Please see our website for further information.

WHY NOT VISIT THE WELL-PRESERVED AUGHANURE CASTLE, OUGHTERARD

ocated just two miles outside Oughterard, approaching from Galway on the N59, is this 16th century Irish Tower House. Much of the surrounding area was occupied by the O’Flaherty clan, up until this time, but was taken over by The first Earl of Ulster, Walter de Burgo, in 1256. The original castle was probably built by the Earl during this time but was re-conquered by the O’Flaherty Clan by 1300. Aughnanure Castle lies in picturesque surroundings close to the shores of Lough Corrib. In 1546 the O’Flaherty’s motto “Fortune favours the strong” and the powerful Mayo O’Malleys Motto “Powerful by land and by sea”, were joined in the marriage of Donal an Chogaidh O’Flaherty and Grainuaile/Grace O’Malley. Standing on what is virtually a rocky island, the castle is a particularly well-preserved example of an Irish tower house. In addition, visitors will find the remains of a banqueting hall, a watch tower, an unusual double bawn and bastions and a dry harbour. By 1569, Aughnanure Castle and surrounding lands were declared to be property of the crown and in control of Murrough na Doe O’Flaherty was named chief, undermining the

rightful chief, Donal an Chogaidh. This decree split the tribe and the eastern portion of the property, including Aughnanure Castle, were controlled by Murrough and the western portion remained with Donal. For 60 years, the castle remained in possession of the crown and was used as a stronghold against attacks from Galway during Cromwellian times. In 1630, Roderick O’Flaherty petitioned to have the castle returned and the scholar and writer was successful in, once again, retaining possession. However, in the difficult years to come, with Roderick being a Catholic, the castle suffered the poverty which he eventually died in. In recent years, the castle was bought by the Office of Public Works and was fully restored. The castle was built beside, and at some positions straddling, a small river, the Drimneen, that has cut intriguing caverns in the stone below it. The building consists of a small (probably) guard look-out, a lower floor for storage and two upper floors – one used for living quarters (containing a secret room) and the other for sleeping. At the top of the castle, there is an area to take in the fabulous views of the surrounding area.

Our Deli offers lots of hot & cold sandwiches & specials to choose from. We stock a large range of Irish Cheese, charcuterie & Smoked ﬁsh, all perfect pairings for a bottle of wine from our off licence. Our boutique Off licence carries a huge range of Irish whiskeys, gins and speciality Irish liqueurs. We also stock many Irish Craft Beers, ﬁne wines from around the world and International spirits. Call in to us and our knowledgeable staff will guide you through our selection.

FLYING HEROES HONOURED

◀◀ Watching Sunrise at The Claddagh, Galway. Photo: Declan McGuire

LITTLE BOOK OF GALWAY WORKS FOR VISITORS AND LOCALS ALIKE by judy murphy

egendary aviators John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown crash-landed in Derrygimlagh Bog just outside Clifden in June 1919, having completed the first ever non-stop trans-Atlantic flight. Earlier this year, the Connemara capital honoured the British pilots by erecting a bronze statue to their memory in Clifden’s Town Square. It was unveiled in March by the British Ambassador to Ireland, Robin Barnett, and is a replica of the one commissioned by the British government in 1954 to recognise the two men’s historic achievement. That original artwork is in Heathrow Airport. Heathrow lent the statue to Clifden last year for the centenary celebrations of Alcock and Brown’s non-stop flight between St John’s in Newfoundland and Connemara, which bagged them a £10,000 prize offered by the Daily Mail. It was the first time Heathrow had ever loaned the statue of the pilots and the decision to do so came after much persuasion by Brian Hughes of the Abbeyglen Hotel. After travelling by ship and road, the Alcock and Brown statue arrived in Clifden in June 2019. Property developer Sean Mulryan and his family were holidaying locally at the time and they saw the statue. He was intrigued and impressed when Brian Hughes told him the story of how it came to be there. “I was amazed at what Brian had achieved to get it here,” he recalls. Back then, Brian had also informed the multi-millionaire owner of Ballymore Holdings that the statue would have to be returned

▲▲ British Ambassador to Ireland Robin Barnett with Clifden Chamber President Lisa King, joined by Transition Year students from Clifden Community College after the unveiling of the Alcock and Brown monument. Photo: Andrew Downes, XPOSURE

to Heathrow. Sean Mulryan decided to intervene. “We’d all heard about moving statues and we got to thinking about replica statues,” he says. As a result of those thoughts, Mr Mulryan and his wife Bernardine funded the sculpture which was created by David O’Brien of Dublin-based foundry Bronze Art. And it now has pride of place in Clifden. But there’s more to come yet, according to Sean Mulryan. “There is a phase three to this and Brian is going to drive it like Brian drives everything,” he says of Brian Hughes. “A museum where the plane crash-landed is the next target, with a replica of the plane and a history of the great sorties of aviation in the world.” Mr Mulryan recalled meeting an elderly man in a pub in Clifden in June 2019 who said there was no truth in the historical version of events around Alcock and Brown’s arrival in Galway – which says the pilots landed in Derrygimlagh by accident. Mr Mulryan’s drinking companion said the men knew exactly what they were doing. “Wasn’t it my grandfather met them off the plane and the first thing they says to him ‘we want two pints of Guinness as soon as you can’,” were the local man’s memories. Leaving aside any such tales, the pilots’ flight was an “extraordinary story of adventure, bravery and breaking down boundaries for mankind”, Sean Mulryan believes. John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown, from Manchester and Glasgow respectively, had both served in the British Army and both had been taken prisoner in the First World War.

A shared passion brought them together in the attempt to win the prize to be the first to cross the Atlantic non-stop in under 72 hours. So, they set off from Newfoundland in June 1919 and began the adventure that would end in Clifden. They displayed great “courage and wit and strength of character” in overcoming a myriad of problems to achieve their goal, according to the British Ambassador, Robin Barnett. “Can any of us imagine what it must have been like, in thick fog, driving rain and snow? All of that made an already unthinkably difficult journey all that much harder for the two men and their little aircraft.” Now there are plans to develop a museum

at Derrygimlagh Bog in memory of these honorary citizens of Connemara. Sean Mulryan feels it’s a logical step. “I spend a lot of time in the UK and when I talk to people about Alcock and Brown, everybody knows about it. If we get the museum done it will be a huge benefit to Clifden and the area.” Retired RAF Group Captain A.J.H. Alcock, a nephew of John Alcock, who attended the 1954 unveiling of the Heathrow memorial to the pilots, says it’s the only one in existence. The replica in the Connemara capital means that “Clifden is now uniquely connected with the end of the story”, according to Captain Alcock.

by Dave O’Connell

t can be hard to get a handle on a city or region if you’re only there for a couple of days – but a concise new book, just in the shops, has Galway’s history, heritage and attractions listed off to a tee. The Little Book of Galway tells the history of the city and county in one easy-to-read timeline – and then works its way through the heritage, culture, people and nature of the region over 140 packed pages. It’s the perfect guide to the region – which shouldn’t come as any surprise, because it’s written by a woman who has been a tour guide for over a quarter of a century. Helen Lee has been a tour guide since 1994, working across Ireland and Britain. In 2004 she was awarded her Galway Tour Guide Badge by Failte Ireland – and she now regularly conducts walking tours of Galway city. Her legwork, quite literally, has given her the knowledge and insight to produce this easy to read introduction to Galway – and it’s

not just for visitors either. Because while we all know bits and pieces of our own heritage and history, most of us are also embarrassed by yawning chasms in our local knowledge – and this fills those gaps. Helen herself describes it as a reliable reference book and a quirky guide that ‘can be dipped into time and time again to reveal something new about the people, the heritage and the secrets of this fascinating county’. And while all of Galway’s history and heritage has been documented in countless tomes before, this pocket-sized publication brings it all together in brief under one roof. The city is of course named after the daughter of the mythical King Bressal; Galvia or Gaillimh is most famous for falling into the fast-flowing Corrib, never to be seen again. Helen Lee explains the City of the Tribes, the Spanish Arch, Lynch’s Castle and St Nicholas’ – and venturing into the county, there’s the story of Dun Aengus, Kilmacduagh’s Round Tower, Kylemore Abbey and the castles in Athenry, Aughnanure and Portumna for a start. Famous Galwegians are divided between those born here – Nora Barnacle, Richard Martyn, Fr Flanagan and Philip Treacy for a start – and those with Galway connections, including Edward Carson, Lord Haw Haw, Oliver St John Gogarty, Grace O’Malley and Padraig Pearse. The city and county’s literary and artistic history is also summarised, delving into the story of Coole Park, connections to Yeats, Shaw, O’Casey and Synge; the Taibhdhearc and the Druid, and films that featured Galway as their backdrop. The bloodier side of our history isn’t spared either, with a chapter on the Battle of Athenry in 1316; Knockdoe in 1504 and Aughrim in 1691, as well as Galway’s role in the Easter Rising and the War of Independence.

There’s space for a potted history of our sporting endeavours and heroes, our most famous visitors and iconic festivals – all combining to leave the reader (visitor or resident) with a potted history of all of the elements that make the city and county such a global

attraction. Even those who’ve never left will find they’ve a more rounded knowledge and appreciation of the place we all call home. The Little Book of Galway by Helen Lee, is published by the History Press, and is available in all good bookshops now.

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▶▶ Alcock & Brown Monument

BEAUTY AND TRADITION

he land is hard, the soul is not…” So says Lonely Planet about the Wild Atlantic Way’s Cliff Coast, where Ice Age landscapes meet West coast warmth and music is a way of life. This striking seaboard is a place for cliff-top walks, island-hopping, cosy pubs, rich waves of traditional music and soul-stirring views. The natural surroundings of Loop Head are home to colonies of puffins and you can observe bottlenose dolphins in the Shannon estuary. The stony beauty of Flaggy Shore in Co Clare was evoked by Seamus Heaney in his poem Postscript where he said it can “catch the heart off guard and blow it open”. And then there’s the otherworldly Burren – a vast, limestone pavement spotted with rare flora, ancient roads and a surprisingly tasty selection of food.

▲▲ Diamond hill from Kylemore

GALWAY WALKING TRAILS AWAKEN YOUR CURIOSITY G

alway is spoilt for choice when it comes to walking in the countryside. With spectacular mountain ranges, pristine beaches and stunning scenery around every bend, Galway is a natural centre for walking and hiking. And with such a variety in landscape, thousands visit Galway each year on walking holidays.

WESTERN WAY This 50km route starts at Oughterard and finishes at Leenane. On route you’ll also take in Maam, Maumeen, Inagh and Toorenacoona, as well as the Maum Turks, the Twelve Bens, and the banks of Lough Corrib. The terrain consists of quiet roads, bog roads,

CLIFFS OF MOHER The iconic Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland’s most visited natural attractions. Stretching for 8km along the Atlantic coast of Clare, the cliffs reach 214m at their highest point at Knockardakin. Midway along the cliffs you’ll find the environmentally friendly visitor centre set into the hillside. Here, you can also discover O’Brien’s Tower, a 19th-century viewing tower, and access 800m of protected cliff-side pathways with viewing areas. There are many vantage points from which to admire the

awe-inspiring Cliffs of Moher. From the main platform, you can see the south cliffs toward Hag’s Head, a natural rocky promontory that resembles a seated woman. From the North Platform, you can spot An Branán Mór sea stack, home of guillemots and razorbills, as well as the Aran Islands and, if the conditions are right, the famous surfing wave known as ‘Aileen’s’. Continue on about 5km from here and you’ll arrive in the village of Doolin.

Head Drive to the western end of the peninsula to see its famous lighthouse, which sits on land dotted with colourful wild flowers. You can climb to the top of the lighthouse and take in splendid views that stretch from County Kerry to the Cliffs of Moher. At the very end of the peninsula there is also a relic from WWII: large white letters spelling É-IR-E, which let pilots know they were entering neutral airspace.

LOOP HEAD

SPANISH POINT

At the western tip of County Clare, where the calm waters of the Shannon Estuary turn into the powerful waves of the Atlantic, you’ll find Loop Head Peninsula. Travel along Loop

Spanish Point has a beautiful long sandy beach within a sheltered location making it a family friendly shore, perfect for shelling and sandcastle-building. The beach is located on

the northern side of the village and has ample parking. Its high waves rolling in from the Atlantic Ocean are popular with surfers and swimmers alike.

FLAGGY SHORE The Flaggy Shore is one side of a small peninsula that stretches from the village of New Quay to Finvarra Point, and is one of the most northerly parts of County Clare. It’s famous for the limestone pavements and fossils that are embedded in the rock. The shore itself is most beautiful but what makes the Flaggy Shore so distinctive is the wonderful views to the west and north to Galway Bay and the mountains beyond.

Aillwee

ocated in the heart of The Burren Region of County Clare. Perched high on its Burren terraced mountainside with what has to be one of the most spectacular views of Galway Bay, along The Wild Atlantic Way, Aillwee is a place full of wonder, beauty and discovery.

Aillwee is home to Ireland’s Premiere Show Cave, a dramatic Birds of Prey Centre and an artisan Farmshop where you can taste our unique AwardWinning Burren Gold Cheese. Witness underground and over ground marvels at Aillwee and immerse yourself in a true Burren Experience. Expert guides will accompany and inform you during your leisurely Cave tour. The tour consists of a 35-minute stroll through the beautiful caverns unveiling a unique Burren underground landscape.

CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK Spanning nearly 3,000 hectares of mountains, bogs, heaths and woodlands, Connemara National Park is a fantastic spot for walking and hiking. There are actually three walks to do within the park. The pathways are well marked out and signposted and the walks are planned to suit everyone, from the novice to the well-seasoned walker. You also have the added comfort of having Park Rangers on hand, just in case you get into any difficulties. Starting point: Letterfrack

From famous vistas to ancient natural treasures, don’t skip these top spots for Cliff Coast discovery.

open moorland, forestry tracks, mountain paths and about 3km of timber bog bridge: some parts of the route can be very wet and boggy, particularly after a rainy period, when there is a fast run-off from the Connemara mountains. Starting point: Oughterard

SUCK VALLEY WAY This is a 10km walk that will take you through boglands, lowland farms, and the “nine friendly villages” Ballygar, Creggs, Glinsk, Ballymoe, Ballintober, Dunamon, Castlecoote, Athleague and Mount Talbot. The area is also rich in history, and offers an almost unique opportunity to experience the life of

rural Ireland, a glimpse of its history and the rich bird and plantlife of the boglands and callows. It’s a marked walkway, just look out for black posts with yellow direction arrows. Starting point: Ballygar

KNOCKMA HILL If nothing else, this walk will awaken your curiosity – to see if you could find the burial site of Queen Maeve of Connaught. The famous Queen is supposed to be buried on top of Knockma Hill. This partially wooded hill contains examples of the famous Burren flora, the Spring Gentian and the Purple Helleborine to name but two species. From the summit of Knockma may be obtained

one of the grandest panoramic views in Ireland. This walk starts at Castlehackett and is approximately 4km long. Starting point: Castlehackett

MOUNTBELLEW WOODLAND The trail at Mount Bellew Woodland, a 5km walk, isn’t too hard on the legs. Look out for Sika deer, along with a museum that used to be a forge, a tug boat (around 900 years old), the Herd’s House and a flour mill (now in ruins), and magnificent oaks, sitkas and Norway spruces. The River Shevin flows through the area and an artificial lake adds to the beauty of the woodlands. Starting point: Mountbellew

The Birds of Prey Centre has been educating and entertaining visitors with dynamic flying displays set against the dramatic Burren Landscape, since 2008. Our 26 acre outdoor site includes an eight acre hazel, ash and holly woodland complete with many accessible trails and footpaths. Aillwee is a must for all who find themselves in The Burren. Since reopening, alongside Covid 19, we have adapted the entire site and all our experiences with our visitors and teams comfort and safety a priority.

Contact Details: • 065-7077036 • info@aillweecave.ie • Open Daily 10:00am – 5.00pm • Pre booking essential on www.aillweecave.ie

CONTRASTING CLARE

FROM THE BUSY STREETS OF ENNIS TO THE TRANQUILITY OF THE BURREN

ontrasts are as much a part of the Clare psyche as story-telling and ‘not making a fuss’. Contrasts are the busy, meandering streets of Ennis set against the dramatic soulful tranquillity of the wind-swept Burren. The rich and delicious juiciness of a rack of local lamb compared to the sea-salt freshness of the perfect oyster. Yes, Clare is about contrasts, so while many come to our shores to find solace and a connection with a place and time that’s come before – others come to relish in the thrill, buzz and spirit of adventure offered by our world-class high-action sports and activities. If Clare is about celebrating life – our adrenalin-pumping leisure options are about taking it to the limit!

SURFING Over the years Clare has earned a name as a premium surfing destination – with several beaches offering different surf experiences so you can select according to your skills and experience. Perhaps the best known surf location is Lahinch, which has become a true ‘surf town’, with plenty of surf schools, surf shops and ‘hang outs’ on offer – and the buzzing vibe to go with it. The main surf break here is along a relatively large beach with rocks along the foreshore. It’s great if you’re a beginner but can also provide some larger, more challenging waves for the more advanced. It’s generally agreed that Lahinch works best with an east or north easterly wind and a westerly or south westerly swell, and the best time to surf is at mid to low tide.

EASY WALKS

DIFFICULT WALKS

Kilrush Town Looped Walking Trail – 10.5km. Cahermurphy Loop Walk, East Clare – 10km. Cratloe, Brickhill Bridge – 6.5km.

The Mullaghmore Loop Walk – 6.4km. Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk from Liscannor to Doolin – 20km. Plus, from the Burren Peaks Weekend of Walking Festival and Loop Head Walking and Heritage Festival to the East Clare Walking Festival – there are lots of special events dedicated to helping you get out there, discovering Clare at its most natural and beautiful.

MODERATE WALKS Whitestrand to Blue Pool Coastal Loop Walk – 8.2km. Slieve Callan Walk, the Hand Cross Roads – 6km, a moderate walk. Abbey Hill, Near Behagh, The Burren – 6km, a moderate walk. Black Head, Near Cregg, The Burren – 11.4km, a moderate walk. Doolin, Cliffs of Moher – 7.6km, a moderate walk.

Other beaches close by are Spanish Point and Doonbeg, which have more swell – and are perhaps for the more experienced or daring. The quality of surf schools in the area is exceptionally good, with instructors who are fully-qualified Irish Surfing Association coaches. Most offer a range of different lessons for all ages and all experience levels – as well as hiring or sale of surfing equipment.

WALKING Burren Wild Tours offers professionally-guided walking and hiking tours in the heart of the Burren and Cliffs of Moher GeoPark. There are lots of different routes to choose from, so you can select according to the level of challenge you want:

ADVENTURE BURREN STYLE There’s so much more to the Burren than meets the eye. Discover its fascinating beauty and secrets – above and below ground and off-the-beaten track. The Burren Outdoor Education Centre provides exhilarating and adventurous explorations of the area – from underground passages to kayaking in the bay and climbing the craggy lime stones.

CAVING Experience the fascinating world of the Burren’s underground landscape with a caving tour suitable for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced adventurer. Back-West Adventures offers environmentally-sensitive caving expeditions as well as guided hikes across the ragged landscape of the area.

CLIMBING An Adventure Burren rock-climbing experience will introduce you to the thrilling mountains and coastal crags of the Burren – or choose a slightly tamer but just as wonderful hill-walk off-the-

beaten track with an experienced guide. In Ballyvaughan, Bens Rock-Climbing Clinic offers courses and one off climbing and abseiling sessions for all levels – there’s simply no better way to push your boundaries and feel alive!

SAILING Make your trip your first encounter with the fascinating and hugely rewarding world of sailing, with Nevsail National Training Centre. Learn to sail in safety, comfort and style. In South Clare’s Killaloe, the Killaloe Sailing Club offers dinghy sailing on beautiful Lough Derg – for complete beginners through to the experienced sailor looking for the thrill of competition.

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THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE! Can’t decide on your adventure? University of Limerick Activity Centre in the East of Clare at Killaloe offers high-quality, high-adventure pursuits – from sailing and power boating to windsurfing, kayaking, canoeing and archery.

63 O'Connell Street, Ennis, Co.Clare Tel 065 682 4490 / 682 3411 Email: collinsjewellery@yahoo.com

BIKING Take an off-road, guided mountain bike tour and follow the road less travelled with the company of an expert guide– with Burren Way Mountain Bike Tours or West Coast Cycle Tours. Connect with the landscape, be in the moment, and feel challenged and inspired by the new and the different. It’s all right there and waiting!

ELECTRIC BIKING Tour The Burren on a quality Kalkhoff electric bike from E-whizz – guided and selfguided tours of The Burren. You can take in all the well-known landmarks and many more scenic and historic sites – all guides are locals with in-depth knowledge of the area

KAYAKING “Magical”, “Exciting”, “Invigorating” and “an absolute blast” – it’s all true of North Clare Sea Kayaking and Nevsail Watersports. Feel more alive than ever before as you paddle accompanied by playful seals – or challenge yourself and your fears as you enter the mouth of an ancient, hidden sea cave.

T: 065 682 3300 E: info@templegatehotel.com The Square, Ennis, Co. Clare www.templegatehotel.com

HARD LANDS, WARM HEARTS

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ugging the robust coastline, the Wild Atlantic Way journey boasts sheltered bays, sandy beaches, hidden coves and gorgeous inlets. Along the way you’ll encounter pretty seaside villages that play host to traditional local music, while clifftop walks offer breath-taking views of ice-age landscapes. On your journey you’ll find yourself effortlessly unwinding and relaxing into the Wild Atlantic Way of life. Explore the Wild Atlantic Way with these great itineraries.

DAY 1 Clifden – Derrigimlagh – Roundstone – Pearse Cottage – Galway Stage 1: Derrigimlagh, County Galway (R341) Travelling south from Clifden, your first Signature Discovery Point on the Wild Atlantic Way is Derrigimlagh. One of the most arresting lowland blanket bogs in Europe, this haunting landscape offers much to explore. A five-kilometre signposted looped walk reveals a journey into the past, highlighted by monuments of magnificence including remnants of the world’s first permanent transatlantic radio station, constructed by Guglielmo Marconi in 1907, and a memorial to Alcock and Brown; the first pilots to fly non-stop across the Atlantic. Stage 2: Derrigimlagh To Pearse Cottage (66.4km Via R341 And R340) Depart for Rosmuc (1hr 20mins) in the heart of the Connemara Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region). En route, stop-off at Roundstone at bodhrán (Irish drum) maker Malachy Kearns’ workshop. Malachy crafts unique instruments that have featured in the famous Riverdance show! At Rosmuc, step into the shoes of Pádraig Pearse; revered writer, teacher and leader of the 1916 Rising. Pearse was hugely fond of peaceful Rosmuc, and his charming little cottage stands as a fitting reflection. Adjacent, you’ll find the Connemara Cultural Centre housing an interactive exhibition showcasing Pearse’s powerful legacy, and exploring the area’s rich history. Stage 3: Pearse Cottage To Galway City (54.4km Via R336) Glorious Galway City is next! Hug the coast for just over an hour, enjoying picturesque views en route. Take a tasty bite out of what’s known as the ‘City of the Tribes’ with Galway Food Tours. Let Sheena Dignam lead you on the ‘Around the Market Place’ tour stopping at award-winning eateries, and some delicious hidden gems. Sample everything from cheese and artisan meats to chocolate and beer – yum! Once you’ve had your fill, bed down for the night in one of Galway’s many great places to stay.

DAY 2 Galway – Ballyvaughan – Doolin Stage 1: Galway City A fabulous blend of contemporary and old Ireland, bohemian Galway can be explored either independently or on a tour through winding, cobbled streets, taking in iconic Eyre Square, the ancient medieval quarter and landmarks like the Gothic University Quadrangle. Discover the Claddagh Village, once a distinct fishing community with its own king, and home to the Claddagh ring. The village’s rich heritage can be further explored at Katie’s Cottage, where music, dance and storytelling bring new life to beloved tradition. Stage 2: Galway City To Ballyvaughan (50.1km Via N67) Just over an hour’s drive away is the pretty fishing village of Ballyvaughan – unofficial capital of the Burren! Perched on the Burren’s terraced mountainside, Ailwee Cave is a dramatic underworld of bridged chasms, strange formations and a thunderous waterfall. The accompanying Birds of Prey Centre is popular with avian enthusiasts and novices alike. For a truly unique experience take a ‘Hawk Walk’ through hazel woodland and across Burren limestone pavement. Stage 3: Ballyvaughan To Doolin (29.4km Via R477) From one charming fishing village to another – stop in Doolin (40mins) and experience the magic of Doolin Music House. This humble abode boasts a warm, lively atmosphere that’s second-to-none. Christy Barry is an informed trad musician, who’ll happily explain the nuances of this lively genre, while his partner, Sheila, is an accomplished artist whose work is proudly displayed around the house. Scheduled sessions take place throughout the week, otherwise upon request. Enjoy a tasty dinner locally when you’re done, before settling down for the night.

DAY 3 Doolin – Cliffs Of Moher – Lahinch – Loop Head Stage 1: Doolin To Cliffs Of Moher (9km Via R478) Day three begins on an epic note, following a short 12-minute drive from Doolin. Defined by nature across millions of years, the stunning, 8km long, Cliffs of Moher stand over 200 metres above the ocean. Internationally renowned, the cliffs are home to the 19th century gothic-style O’Brien’s Tower, and provide a terrific vantage point for nearby wonders like An Branán Mór sea stack and the Aran Islands. If conditions are right you may even catch a glimpse of surfers grappling with the mysterious and challenging Aileen’s Wave! Stage 2: Cliffs Of Moher To Lahinch (10.4km Via R478) A 15-minute spin takes you to Lahinch, a popular seaside resort, where surfing, archery, sea kayaking and cycling are just some of the great family-friendly activities on offer. There’s plenty of operators to choose from all offering opportunities to enjoy the array of outdoor activities available. Stage 3: Lahinch To Loop Head (68.8km Via N67 And R487) After an active afternoon in Lahinch, follow the coast to Loop Head Peninsula. A shining beacon since 1854, Loop Head Lighthouse (open March to October) is a major local landmark. From its soaring clifftop position, enjoy 90m-high views of the sea down to Kerry Head and Dingle and across

the Shannon to the Cliffs of Moher. On a guided tour, learn all about the area’s rich maritime history. You’ll be ready for a well-earned rest at this stage, so after dinner, bunk down in any of the villages on the peninsula or in nearby Doonbeg.

DAY 4 Loop Head – Tarbert – Ballybunion – Bromore Cliffs – Tralee Stage 1: Loop Head To Killimer To Tarbert (55.4km Via R487 And N67) Follow the winding road for about ¾ hour passing through a series of towns and villages, before taking to the water! A 20-minute ferry ride takes you across the Shannon Estuary from Clare to the historic village of Tarbert in what’s affectionately known as the ‘kingdom’ of Kerry, thanks to its incredibly dramatic scenery. On this, the only car ferry on the Wild Atlantic Way, enjoy the rugged nature of land and sea and the fresh salty air that sums up this region. Stage 2: Tarbert To Ballybunion (25km Via R551) Just 25 kilometres away lies beautiful Ballybunion; a seaside resort with a golden sandy beach and famous for its two golf links courses. A tour with local legend and All-Ireland Piping Champion and historian, Danny Houlihan, introduces you to Kerry’s lush glens and valleys and its colourful wildlife by bike or on foot, at your chosen pace. Stage 3: Ballybunion To Bromore Cliffs (3.7km Via R551) Only 9-minute drive away is another titanic landmark of the Cliff Coast; the sheer 180-foot Bromore Cliffs which have been sculpted by the elements over millennia. Enjoy a walk along the precipice – it’s well-fenced and suitable for explorers of all ages. The cliffs are home to an array of wildlife and vegetation, with falcons, guillemots, and rock doves among the flying population. In the ocean far below, you might also spot Atlantic grey seals, bottlenose dolphins and, sometimes, sea otters! Stage 4: Bromore Cliffs to Tralee (46.3km Via R551) Kerry’s capital, Tralee, is just under an hour’s drive. In this buzzing town, step back into ye olde Ireland on a walking tour of Ashe Street and Denny Street. Take in Victorian period shopfronts and façades while covering key milestones in Irish history between 1895 and 1930. An evening at Siamsa Tíre, the National Folk Theatre is a wonderful way to engage with Irish culture, music, song and dance. ▲▲ For more inspiration and ideas for a getaway on the Wild Atlantic Way, please visit www.wildatlanticway.com

FEEL THE ROMANTIC WARMTH AND SOUL OF COUNTY CLARE

rom rugged coastline to the magical stories of traditional music, you donâ€™t have to look hard to feel the romantic warmth and soul of County Clare. But as much as itâ€™s an emotional experience, so is it one of quality and the kind of exceptionally high standards that have made us a world destination of choice. Take a glass of our much-loved Guinness for example: pouring the perfect pint of the black requires adherence to a strict set of criteria â€“ from being able to complete the perfect â€˜2 Part pourâ€™ to making sure the head stands proud of the rim. But what you may not know is that the same combination of magic and quality is true of the many beautiful beaches in Clare â€“ and weâ€™re proud to say that no less than 9 of our beaches have met all criteria necessary to be given the much sought-after Blue Flag Status. The Blue Flag is awarded in Europe, Africa, Asia, North America and South America to beaches that represent the highest standards of water quality, education and information about the beach, environmental management as well as safety services and facilities. To be awarded a Blue Flag a beach has to meet 23 imperative and four guideline criteria, while marinas require compliance with 19 imperative and four guidance criteria. Itâ€™s no small feat then that in 2015, Clare beaches received a record number of Blue Flags. All of this means that wherever you choose for some sand, sun and swimming â€“ you can be sure of a safe, top quality, world-class beach experience. Beyond Blue Flag recommendations, what also make Clareâ€™s shores so compelling is the sheer diversity, beauty and natural wonder of our coastline. Ours is a sea board that resonates as much with the soul as it does with the sports enthusiast and swimmer in us. So whether a lone walk on soulful sands with the waves crashing behind you is your idea

of beach heaven â€“ or youâ€™re looking for premium water sports â€“ or youâ€™re simply longing for that nostalgic, authentic sandcastle and rock pool family holiday to recharge and reconnect â€“ youâ€™ll find Clare beaches tick all the right boxes.

HIT THE BEACH From quiet, secluded coves to buzzing seaside life, Clare has it all â€“ but if youâ€™re looking for the ultimate, all-in-one swimming and beach experience, itâ€™s got to be Lahinch in North-West Clare. Since the days of the Old West Clare railway system, Clare holidaymakers have flocked to the Lahinch shore which is today recognised as one of Irelandâ€™s finest beaches and a hot spot for all the excitement and action of surfing. A traditional promenade provides a perfect walkway and viewing point out to sea, while the strand itself is an endless strip of beauty and hidden treasures, just waiting to be explored by eager kids and us grown-ups who are ready for some serious down-time. This large, crescent-shaped sandy beach is a prime spot for swimming â€“ offering secure fun for kids and peace of mind for adults as itâ€™s lifeguarded for safety. Itâ€™s the kind of swimming beach that Irish summers were made for â€“ as long, sunny days stretch into the soft, late afternoon light. Refresh and invigorate mind, body and soul with an early morning plunge â€“ then spend the day making the best of beach time magic. Later, take a stroll, enjoy an ice cream and explore the rocks and boulders of Lahinch while youâ€™re entertained by every water sport imaginable â€“ from surfing, kite-surfing and wind-surfing to water-skiing and sailing. Visit once and we promise youâ€™ll be back. Further along the coast, between Miltown Malbay and Quilty, Spanish Point is another Clare gem that has a beautiful combination of long, lazy golden sands, Blue Flag swimming waters and top surfing action as the high waters roll

in from the Atlantic. Here swimming is supervised in the season and family-friendly beaches can be found all along the coast. If a quieter beach experience and the chance to shoot the breeze and re-energise the soul is more your thing â€“ you might want to take in the beauty of Whitestrand beach â€“ just off the N67 road to Lahinch. Itâ€™s a small, sandy beach with a rocky shoreline and offering a gentler beach mood together with some really great swimming. Kilkee Beach is another top choice â€“ located beside Kilkee village in West Clare on the N68 road from Ennis. This is a beautiful, mile-long, sheltered and sandy beach with many natural swimming pools, known as â€˜Pollock Holesâ€™ that are ideal splash pools for kids and uncertain swimmers. (Quick tip: Want a wild and authentic Clare experience at its best? Enjoy sundowners on your holiday cottage terrace while the dramatic waves swell and crash just ahead.) Further up the coastline past Doolin in North Clare, is Fanore Beach offering paddling for smaller kiddies, swimming for older children and adults and the unique splendour of golden sanddunes. Apart from a great water-life, this beach is also known for its unique flora and fauna â€“ which introduces another wonderful element of natural beauty and discovery to a beach holiday here. Whether youâ€™re running, walking, swimming, playing, fishing or simply kicking back on the shore â€“ Fanoreâ€™s unspoilt beauty and unhurried, soulful charm is sure to move you.

of Ireland â€“ Lough Derg. An outstanding pleasure lake, it features over 179 km of indented shoreline and is famed for its natural beauty, picturesque charm and romantic heritage. You can get to Mountshannon via the R352 from Scarriff or the R352 from Ennis â€“ and once there youâ€™ll find the perfect setting for calm and relaxed swimming and picnicking in lakeside splendour. For added safety, the beach is lifeguard patrolled during the bathing season. To add to the lake experience thereâ€™s also a bustling pier and beautiful marina â€“ making Mountshannon so much more than just a venue â€“ itâ€™s a whole lake lifestyle. You should also remember that this spot is situated on one of Irelandâ€™s premier nature trails â€“ a natural haven for wildlife with exceptional bird watching, hiking and adventuring. Lough Derg is also home to Ballycuggeran freshwater beach, situated near Killaloe.

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Typical of Clareâ€™s contrasting landscape and splendour, the county also offers a range of freshwater swimming destinations â€“ not least being the incredible Mountshannon on the Lough Derg Nature Trail. This exceptional beach is a small, lakeside bathing area located at one of Irelandâ€™s major freshwater lakes

If any or all of your Clare experience includes a stay at one of our fine, worldclass hotels â€“ donâ€™t forget theyâ€™re wellequipped to offer you the ultimate in indoor swimming experiences too. When it comes to swimming â€“ choose Clare and the choice really is yours. So come on in â€“ the waterâ€™s lovely!

TURN UP THE HEAT Of course not every day is going to be ideal for outdoor swimming â€“ but this doesnâ€™t mean the kids are disappointed or you have to do without your morning lengths. In a bid to deliver a total experience, Clare has a number of top-quality, beautifully appointed and maintained public, indoor, heated swimming pools. Pools at Lahinch, Shannon and Kilkee are all worth checking out â€“ while the Ennis Leisure Complex offers a 25m swimming pool and kiddiesâ€™ pool along with a state-of-the-art gym, saunas and steam rooms. So make a day of it!

Aberdeen Bar & Restaurant OPEN DAILY from 12.30pm

A short stroll to Lahinch Beach where you can enjoy the Wild Atlantic Way sea air and relax with the assurance that our team are fully committed to protecting guests from COVID-19 with precautionary measures throughout the Hotel. Recommended by Georgina Campbellâ€™s Ireland Guide 2020 Finalist in Clare Business Excellence Awards 2019 Nominated at Best Four Star Hotel - Hotel & Catering Review

Lahinch Co.Clare E: info@lahinchcoasthotel.ie

Liscannor, Co. Clare. T: (065) 7081 930

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T: +353 (0) 65 7081100 W: www.lahinchcoasthotel.ie

fossils

gems

j e w e l l e ry

minerals

irelandâ€™s o u t s ta n d i n g treasure house

Browse and buy from our shelves packed full of the earthâ€™s natural treasures and other unforgettable gift items. Visit our presentation room with a FREE audio visual outlining the history of quarrying the famous Liscannor flagstones from the nearby Cliffs of Moher.

Enjoy a welcome break at our relaxing Tea Room, now open all year round.

www.therockshop.ie

EXPLORING THE BEST OF THE WEST F by Gerry McInerney

ROM Loop Head to Lisdoonvarna and everywhere in between, one cannot but marvel at the breath-taking and spectacular scenery along the west coast of Clare. With its rugged landscape and homely tourism-driven attractions, little wonder the 90km drive along the coast road, a popular segment of the Wild Atlantic Way, is a must on the itinerary for all tourists. The enchanting Loop Head Lighthouse is located at the tip of the peninsula, which is the furthest point west on the Clare coastline. The wild and rugged Atlantic coast, contrasting sharply with the sheltered Shannon Estuary, truly sets a breath-taking backdrop to the lighthouse. The first lighthouse on Loop Head was one of four known Irish stone-vaulted cottage type lights built about 1670. These cottages accommodated the lightkeeper and his family in two or three rooms and had an internal stone stairway between two of the rooms leading up to a platform on the roof, where a coal-burning brazier or chauffer was positioned. Part of the old cottage with its battered outside wall can still be seen near the lightkeeper’s dwellings and the lightkeeper’s house has been renovated and adapted to provide accommodation for those wishing to put their feet up for the night. Indeed, moves are well advanced to improve the tourist offering with the West

Clare Economic Task Force on a drive to develop an integrated tourism package for the peninsula, centred on the Loop Head Lighthouse tourism project and the Loop Head drive. A short distance up the road from the lighthouse sits Carrigaholt Bay, a beautiful beach much admired for its safe and clean bathing waters. Recently An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland, awarded the prestigious Green Coast Award to Carrighaholt Beach for the first time ever. The Green Coast Award recognises beaches of high environmental quality. The award is for beaches which have excellent water quality but which are also prized for their natural, unspoilt environment. Green Coast sites must be managed in partnership with the local community to be considered for this award and Carrigaholt Beach is managed by the local authority in co-operation with Carrigaholt Tidy Towns. West Clare has an abundance of safe bathing waters, all meeting the standard and Blue Flags fly proudly at Kilkee’s horseshoe-shaped beach, at Kilrush Marina after an absence of 15 years, Cappa in Kilrush and the two Whitestrands of Doonbeg and Miltown Malbay. The Blue Flag is operated in Ireland by An Taisce on behalf of the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) and is one

of the world’s most recognised eco-labels. Beaches and marinas that achieve this award must meet criteria relating to water quality, information provision, environmental education, safety and beach management. At beaches, the bathing water must comply with the Excellent standard in accordance with the 2006 EU Bathing Water Directive. Located just off Kilrush, and serviced by daily tours, is Scattery Island, which was awarded The European Destination of Excellence for 2017 (EDEN). Scattery Island is truly a unique visitor experience on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. Visitors to the island are amazed at the wealth of historic sites, which includes five churches, a cathedral, a magnificent round tower, a Napoleonic war artillery battery and a working lighthouse. Daily guided walking tours allow people to discover the beauty of Scattery Island and walk the paths of saints and scholars. Tours are also available in French, German, Italian and Spanish. Scattery also offers a great family day out and their junior VIPs get their very own treasure trail map to explore the island their own way. Pack a picnic or even enjoy a swim while you’re there. Today, the island is completely uninhabited and visitors can explore its ancient historic sites and experience its unspoilt natural beauty in peace and tranquillity.

CLARE’S HISTORIC BUILDINGS PROVIDE WINDOW TO THE PAST

ANY tourists are interested to learn about the history of a place and see notable landmarks and structures. In County Clare there is no shortage these The stand-out historic building in the county town is Ennis Abbey, a national monument. A Franciscan friary, it was established in the middle of the 13th century by the ruling O’Brien dynasty who supported it for most of its existence. Following the suppression of the monasteries in the 16th century, the friary continued to function for a while despite the loss of its lands. In the early 17th century, the buildings were handed over to the Church of Ireland as a place of worship. It was used as such until

the late 19th century. After the construction of a new Church of Ireland in the late 1880s, the friary fell into ruin. Managed by the Office of Public Works, today the friary remains in a ruined state but is open to the public. Another place of significant ecclesiastical importance is Quin Abbey. It was built between 1402 and 1433 by Síoda Cam MacNamara, for Fathers Purcell and Mooney of the Franciscan order. Now roofless, the structure of the abbey is relatively well preserved. There is an intact cloister, and many other surviving architectural features make the friary of significant historical value. An earlier monastery had existed on the site, which burned down in 1278.

Built circa 1860, Toovahera Church, Kilmoon West, Lisdoonvarna is another place to visit. Nearby is Maiville House, Lisdoonvarna, a three-bay two-storey architect-designed Victorian Gothic House, c.1870. It was built as a residence for consultant doctors for Lisdoonvarna Spa. Loop Head lightkeeper’s house, built c 1855, is an important part of the lighthouse curtilage. Former Taoiseach Enda Kenny’s grandfather, James John McGinley was a lighthouse keeper at Loop Head for a brief period from 1933 to 1934. Dysert O’Dea Castle, near Corofin, is one of the county’s best-known historical landmarks. The tower house was built c.1460 and restored in 1986.

At the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way

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Recently the Historic Structures Fund and Built Heritage Investment Scheme provided support for several points of interest around the county. The Daniel O’Connell monument in the Square in Ennis is among them. Built in 1867, the column stands on the site of the old courthouse, which was demolished in 1852. In East Clare, the lime kiln at Ballyquin, Tuamgraney is located beside the roadway to Reddan’s Quay. It was built in 1913 to provide lime for the Raheen estate and other local farmers and operated until the 1950s. Sykes House at West End, Kilkee, is a detached three-bay two-storey house, built circa 1845. It’s on a corner site, retaining much of its original features.

Falls Hotel & Spa Ennistymon, Co Clare

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€1.7M TO ENABLE WALLED GARDEN TO GROW BY GERRY MCINERNEY

€1.72 million investment in a new state-of-the-art visitor centre at the Vandeleur Walled Garden, which is on the cards, will greatly enhance the tourism product of Kilrush and the wider West Clare area. The walled gardens and stables are nestled in Coillte woodland and form part of what was known as Kilrush House, which was destroyed by fire in the 1890s. The project will see the derelict stables renovated, enhanced, upgraded and ultimately transformed into a new visitor experience comprising of a museum and interpretation centre, while also providing retail opportunities and a general enhancement of access to the centre. The investment in Vandeleur Walled Garden will have wider benefits to the area and town of Kilrush, offering more amenity and recreational options and opportunities for economic growth and employment in the region. The redevelopment of the gardens, initiated in 1997, has led to the growth of the attraction with the walled gardens and café

STEPPING BACK IN TIME AT BUNRATTY J by Owen Ryan

UST off the M18 and very close to Shannon Airport, Bunratty Castle and Folk Park is one of Clare’s most popular attractions, drawing in thousands of Irish and, in other years, international visitors. The castle itself is probably the most easily recognisable building in the county and one of the most well known in Ireland. While there was settlement there for a long time beforehand, the current castle dates back to 1425, when it was built by the McNamara family, who surely never envisaged it being a tourist attraction almost six centuries on. By 1475, it had become the stronghold of the O’Briens, then the largest clan in Munster. They lived in great splendor, with the castle being surrounded by beautiful gardens and it was reputed to have a herd of 3,000 deer. Back in 1954, the castle was restored back to its medieval splendor after it was purchased by Viscount Lord Gort. It was opened to the public in 1962 and is regarded as the most complete and authentically restored and furnished castle in Ireland. While the castle can be viewed from afar

and is a striking building, the adjacent folk park also offers a fantastic insight into life as it used to be lived long ago. Set on 26 acres, the park has more than 30 buildings in a reconstruction of a ‘living’ village and rural setting. There are recreated rural farmhouses, village shops and streets, all built and furnished as they would have appeared in their time. There is also some illustration of the social strata of the time, from the poorest one-room dwelling up to Bunratty House, an example of a Georgian residence built in 1804 and the home of the Studdarts, the last family to actually occupy Bunratty Castle. The shops in the Folk Park have been chosen from many different areas, to form a collection of typical 19th century urban Irish buildings, including the school, the doctor’s house, a pawnbrokers, pub, drapery, print works, grocery, hardware shop, potter and post office. Young visitors to the folk park can also explore the fantastic fairy trail. On it, they can visit the fairy university, the fairy library, the fairy shopping village and many other land-

marks. It is located in a pretty woodland section of the overall attraction. The viking playground is another facet that is bound to keep the younger members of the family happy. Located toward the end of the Village Street, it features a timber structure housing four towers, built out of robinia wood with rope walks and belt bridges, creating a fortified castellated fun-filled tower that gives great views of the surrounding country landscape. More features of it include a play ship theme, a 25m zipline, as well as a variety of swings. Bunratty has two popular resident Irish wolfhounds, Meabh and Saoirse, who have been there for the last few years. Wolfhounds were regular guests at Bunratty Castle from the early days of the medieval banquets of the 1960s. The animals would roam the great hall and dining areas, as would have been the custom in medieval times. Despite their very large size, these shaggy-coated animals have quiet and peaceful personalities, while they are affectionate and love to be with people.

▲▲ Vandeleur Walled Garden

currently forming the core features. The development is due to go to tender in the summer. The proposed works will be an initial phase, allowing for future phases and growth to address the needs and requirements of visitors to the centre, which will remain open during the works with ongoing

access to the walled gardens and café. Chairperson of Kilrush Amenity Trust Ltd Noel Kilkenny said the project reflects the ongoing commitment from Clare County Council to seeking investment in key tourism and rural-based projects in Clare. “The development of Kilrush, in tandem

with the investment in Loop Head, keeps West Clare firmly on the map for visitors. The gardens have continued to develop over the years and, thanks to staff dedication and support from board members of the trust, are primed and ready for this exciting expansion,” he pointed out.

Bunratty Manor Hotel Bookings Available for Private Dining, Family Celebrations, Intimate Weddings and Monthly Tasting Menus Bunratty Manor Hotel, Bunratty, Co Clare

Tel: 061 707984

Email: info@bunrattymanor.ie Website: www.bunrattymanor.ie

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TAKE THE SCENIC ROUTE ALONG THE EAST AND MID CLARE WAY T by Dan Danaher

HE East and Mid Clare long-distance walking trails are some of the most scenic routes in Clare, passing through many quaint villages and bustling towns and taking in stunning views and many historical sites along the way. Holidaymakers and day trippers can enjoy a countryside of great richness and variety if they choose one of the picturesque walks on these ways. The East Clare Way is a 172km circular route that crosses the Slieve Bernagh Mountains before descending to the Clare lakeland areas around Tulla and Feakle. Circling Lough Graney, the route then climbs again over the rugged boglands of the Slieve Aughty Mountain back towards Lough Derg. It returns through the hills towards Scarriff and on to complete its circuit back at Killaloe. The Mid Clare Way, called Slí na Méaracán in Irish, or the Foxglove Way, is a 150km long circular walking route around the centre of County Clare in the West of Ireland.

The busy and picturesque town of Ennis is at its centre. Beginning at Newmarket-on-Fergus, the Way climbs to the western slopes of the Slieve Aughty range with wonderful views across to Mullaghmore and the Burren. Passing through nature reserves at Dromore Woods and historic Dysert O’Dea, the route then follows the River Fergus valley to its estuary at Ballykelly and on to Clarecastle and finally back to Newmarket-on-Fergus. However, there are a number of shorter well-signposted local looped walks of varying length centred on some of the towns and villages along the routes. One of the most popular and most scenic looped walks along the East Clare Way is the Ballycuggaran Loop. Ballycuggaran (Baile Ni Chogarain in Irish) was homeland of the O’Cuggarans, an important family at the court of Brain Ború. Taking around two hours to complete, this 7km looped walk follows a pleasant mix of forest road, forest track and a minor road,

on Crag Hill on the lower slopes of the Slieve Bernagh Mountains. Starting at Crag Wood car park, about 3km from Killaloe, this is a strenuous trail with short climbs and open hillsides. But this shouldn’t deter walkers as it’s also a truly rewarding climb as they reach the top and drink in the expanse of Lough Derg beneath them. In Crag Wood itself walkers will encounter an array of impressive trees, Sitka and Norway Spruce, Japanese Lurch and Noble Fir among them. A new addition to this, is a trail which was constructed in 2016 by Coillte, and allows the walker to climb to the summit of Moylussa, the highest point in county Clare at 1,748 ft. Here walkers can take a well-deserved break, while they savour the breath-taking views below them. ▲▲ For further details check out www.clarewalks.ie

CLIFF FORT DISCOVERED IN LAHINCH BY AUSTIN HOBBS

HE remnants of numerous forts around Lahinch is evidence of the area supporting a large population dating as far back as 5,000 years. Most of the sites are well-known but, due to neglect or farming practices, others have been forgotten. However, the outline in the landscape of a cliff fort at Cregg, Lahinch was discovered recently by a local man, who was flying a drone. Satellite, communications and electronic engineer Matthew Kelly, who has an interest in archaeology and history, said given the number of forts in the area, he has always been aware of the likelihood of more. He has used drone technology in the past, leading to the discovery of previously uncovered ancient forts in Dundalk two years ago. “If you know what you’re looking for; as an experienced drone operator you get to understand the clues in the landscape. It may be just the faintest outline of a boundary,” the Lahinch man said.

▲▲ The cliff fort at Cregg, Lahinch.

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Matthew was flying his drone over the edge of the seashore at Cregg, when he made his latest archaeological find. “I was excited. The fort at Cregg, which is a short distance off the Lahinch to Miltown Malbay road, is in an area that has been ploughed over for generations, but the imprint is still there. It’s about 100m long and is about 500m away from Dún Maebh, which is steeped in legend.” When it came to name the fort, Matthew called upon well-known artist Jim Fitzpatrick, who encouraged him to develop an interest in Irish mythology. “I asked Jim to name the fort and he came up with Cliodna of the Waves. I have decided to call it Dún Clíodhna or Cliodna’s fort. She is the goddess of love and beauty and is said to have three brightly coloured birds, who eat apples from an otherworldly tree and whose sweet song heals the sick,” he said. Matthew contacted the National Monuments Service (NMS), who checked it out and added it to their database, so it is now recorded and protected.

THOSE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING EAST CLARE BY DAN DANAHER

NE of the unexpected benefits of the Covid-19 lockdown is the increase in the number of people who developed a greater appreciation of the joy of walking in the open countryside. According to FĂĄilte Ireland, 26% of domestic visitors stopped off in a particular location for walking or hiking in 2018. Holidaymakers and day trippers to Clare are spoilt for choice when it comes to savouring the hidden gems along the East Clare and Mid-Clare Way. Blessed with some of the most picturesque scenery, quaint villages, historical sites and stunning views, Clare provides a perfect base for a walking holiday in Ireland. Clare Walks Community Employment supervisor, Arlene White hopes the increase in the number of people walking during the lockdown will not change significantly once all the Covid-19 restrictions are removed. â€œSome of the locations on the East Clare and Mid-Clare Way are unbelievable. The scenery is amazing and social distancing isnâ€™t going to be an issue.

â–˛â–˛â€‰â€‰Lough Derg

â–˛â–˛â€‰â€‰Walkers tackle the Twelve Oâ€™Clock Hills in East Clare

â€œThere are plenty of walks for all types of abilities and fitness levels. Visitors can opt to travel on forestry or country roads rather than the more challenging mountain treks. â€œPeople donâ€™t need expensive gear to enjoy a walk. You can buy a cheap pair of walking shoes in a discount store, pack a lunch and head off in the open air. â€œThere are loads of places where people can stop and simply enjoy the view and the birds singing. People can choose to be out for an hour or six as there is still plenty to see and do,â€? she said. Clare Walks runs a ramblers group with 180 members ranging in age from 40 to more than

70 years of age who enjoyed regular walks before the Covid-19 restrictions. With an average of 30 people participating in most walks, it is hoped to resume travelling the highways and byeways of the county later this month. A farmer in Connolly recently told Clare Walks representatives he had seen more people using a local walk on his land in the last few months compared with the previous few years. Some of the seven Community Employment operatives who are doing maintenance works are now starting to recognise regular users of certain walking routes. The not-for-profit organisation has applied

to Clare County Council for funding under the Town and Village Renewal Scheme to defray the cost of a new app for the entire East Clare Way. This app would inform walkers about the grade, distance and terrain of the route and the town or village the walker is leaving. It would also provide information on the history, heritage, flora and fauna of places like Killaloe, Kilbane, Broadford, Oâ€™Callaghanâ€™s Mills, Tulla, Feakle, Flagmount, Scariff and Mountshannon which would be a great marketing tool. If the walk doesnâ€™t go through some of these locations, there is always a spur leading to and from these settlements. Usually, this app covers different sections such as Killaloe to Broadford, which could cost in the region of â‚Ź30,000 to develop with an expectation that further sections would be cheaper as the software would be in place. It is estimated that an app covering eight sections of the East Clare Way could cost â‚Ź100,000 based on a similar venture undertaken by a folklore group in Kerry. An app developed for the Camino de Santiago network of trails across Europe provides history of the area being covered by the walker, the terrain and the pilgrim path.

GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL IN EAST CLARE

F by Fiona McGarry

OR those who take the road less travelled, the experience of East Clare is unforgettable. Leave the motorway behind and discover charming leafy villages and market towns and experience the breathtaking rugged landscape, rolling towards the majestic shores of Lough Derg. Part of FĂĄilte Irelandâ€™s Hidden Heartlands, East Clare is the ideal destination for those who want to leave the world behind and reconnect with nature. Whether youâ€™re an experienced hillwalker, or are happier with a leisurely stroll, youâ€™ll enjoy the pace of life in this secluded corner of the Banner County. If water is your element, thereâ€™s fishing, kayaking, canoeing and sailing, or you could always relax on the shore, or at the harbour and enjoy a picnic made up of local produce. At a time when crowded destinations are less attractive, â€˜slow tourismâ€™ is coming into its own. A welcome counter-balance to frantic day-trips and crammed itineraries, a break in this region is a tonic for the body and mind. A visit here is a must for those looking to tread lightly on the earth

and find more sustainable ways to travel. â€œItâ€™s about encouraging people to enjoy being active in nature and more mindful of nature while theyâ€™re in East Clare,â€? said Arlene White, chairperson of Tourism East Clare. â€œThere are lots of fantastic opportunities for visitors coming here, from kayaking to walks to boat trips and thatâ€™s the kind of sustainable tourism that really works well in this area.â€? There is something too for all the family. North-East Clare boasts a hidden gem in the stunning Lough Graney and the welcoming villages of Killanena, Flagmount and Feakle, where Biddy Early, the legendary â€˜Wise Woman of Clareâ€™, echoes to this day. Monastic history is imprinted on Inis Cealtra, the holy island off the western shores of Lough Derg. A boat trip to this, one of Irelandâ€™s oldest sacred sites, is a holiday highlight. You might even catch a glimpse of a majestic white-tailed sea eagle. A breeding pair created history in 2013 when they reared the first chicks to fly from a nest in Ireland in 110 years. Irelandâ€™s medieval heritage is also clear in the windswept village of Tulla. Founded

by St Mochulla, Tulla is also steeped in the rich musical tradition of East Clare. A stoneâ€™s throw away, the lovely market town of Scariff has many shopping opportunities. There is rural beauty too in the lovely villages of Bodyke and Oâ€™Callaghanâ€™s Mills, as well as Kilkishen, on the edge of the charmingly named 12 Oâ€™Clock Hills, a mecca for those who flock to its forest tracks and trails. The literature lover with a sweet tooth will be enchanted by Tuamgraney. The birth place of one of Irelandâ€™s greatest writers, Edna Oâ€™Brien, is also home to Wilde Irish Chocolates. Tuamgraney too is the gateway with opportunities to branch off to Mountshannon and its stunning harbour and continue on to charming Whitegate or you could travel the stunning route through Ogonnelloe and on to Killaloe. Whichever route you take, you wonâ€™t be disappointed and the village is the ideal base from which to spend long summer days exploring this lovely region. With a choice of excellent self-catering, hotel or B&B accommodation, East Clare is the perfect place to start a voyage of discovery.

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Full Takeaway Menu available daily from 12 noon to 9.30pm Full Takeaway Menu available daily from 12 noon to 9.30pm Order online: www.shannonspringshotel.com or by calling 061.364047 / 083.0703662 Order online: www.shannonspringshotel.com or by calling 061.364047 / 083.0703662 Offering deliveries: Thursday to Sunday â€“ 3pm to 9pm Offering deliveries: Thursday to Sunday â€“ 3pm to 9pm

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WIN a Fantastic Family Staycation in East Clare Clare County Council and The Clare Champion are offering readers the chance to win a family staycation in East Clare. East Clare is always a special place to refresh your spirits, and even more so during these times. If you are lucky enough to win, you will be based in Tuamgraney in East Clare, part of Ireland's Hidden Heartlands. The area is dotted with almost 40 lakes and boasts the unrivalled assets of the Lough Derg Blueway and the Shannon Waterway.

The Prize Enjoy a Stay in the Award-Winning Clareville House, Tuamgraney The lucky winner will enjoy a Two-Night Break for a family of four (2 adults and 2 children under 12 sharing a family room), staying in Clareville House, in the beautiful heritage village of Tuamgraney, East Clare - adjacent to Lough Derg. Clareville House is an award-winning 4Star B&B, renowned for its breakfasts and excellent hospitality. The prize includes the two-night family stay and breakfast both mornings. Clareville House has completed the Certified Covid-19 Safety Charter to help ensure you have a safe and stress-free break. Visit www.ClarevilleHouse.ie

ENNIS: THE TOWN THAT HAS IT ALL

Other Prize Inclusions

A Guided Tour of McKernan Woollen Mills - with a free scarf for each family member. The prize-winning family will see the carefully restored 19th century Hattersley looms and state-of-the-art knitting machines in action, and will discover the fascinating process of textile manufacturing in a historical context. They will have the opportunity to meet the designers and makers, ask questions and see traditional and modern techniques up close. This unique prize also includes a scarf of choice for each family member. See www.scarves.ie A Guided Kayaking Trip on Lough Derg, with Derg Isle Adventure Centre. Imagine some time away from electronic distractions, just you and your family having great fun on a 1.5-hour guided kayaking trip on Lough Derg. Visit www.DergIsleAdventure.com A Tour of the Wilde Irish Chocolates factory in East Clare. The winner will get to see how all of the Wilde handmade choccie goodies are created and get lots to taste too. They also get to choose €50 worth of chocolates to take away to enjoy later or to share with family and friends when they get home! Visit www.WildeIrishChocolates.com

How to Win the Prize?

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To enter the competition, all you need to do is visit www.VisitClare.ie/prize. You will be asked two simple questions. The lucky winner will be drawn from the entries with the correct answer. Competition closes on Friday, August 14, 2020.

by Jessica Quinn

UNIQUE combination of Ireland’s historic past and vibrant present awaits those who take the time to explore Clare’s county capital of Ennis. With lots of places to stay suiting all budgets, Ennis is an ideal location to base yourself while exploring the many attractions of the county. However, there is so much more to the county town, with plenty of things to do right on its doorstep. With a rich heritage dating back to the 11th century, Ennis’ winding lane-ways and bow-ways, the ruins of Ennis Friary and the O’Connell monument, are just some reminders of bygone days that can easily be explored. Respecting what has gone before it, Ennis is also a modern town with a bustling and vibrant town centre. As the largest town in Munster, whether you want to explore the past, shop till you drop, enjoy some nightlife, or even just get back to nature, visitors, and locals are spoilt for choice. Ennis has long been known as the ‘Boutique capital of Ireland’, with a wide array of retailers showcasing the very latest style collections, and all within walking distance of each other. With looks for ladies and fashion for fellas, Ennis really pulls out all the stops for those looking to turn heads. Recent Covid-19 restrictions may have put a temporary halt to shopping sprees in recent months. However, Ennis has led the way in ensuring that people could return to the town, once restrictions were lifted, while adhering to key public health guidelines. Pedestrianisation, priority parking

spaces for vulnerable members of the public and colourful planters are just some of the measures which were introduced by Clare County Council to allow people to social distance while enjoying all the town has to offer. Nightlife has certainly changed throughout the country this year, however what hasn’t changed is the warm welcome that people will get when they venture out for an evening of fun in Ennis. The town’s thriving evening and night-time economy has been recognised with the prestigious Purple Flag, meaning night-owls can expect an enjoyable, safe night out. Similar to the Blue Flag for beaches, the Purple Flag is an international award to raise the standards and broaden the appeal of town and city centres from early evening until late. Areas awarded with a Purple Flag are recognised for providing a diverse and vibrant mix of dining, entertainment and culture while

promoting the safety and well-being of visitors and local residents. For those more interested in the great outdoors, there are plenty of local beauty spots just outside Ennis’ town centre. Picturesque Ballyalla Lake is located a short drive from the town. Whether its relaxing by the waterside, taking a stroll along a scenic walking trail or, for the more adventurous, taking the plunge with some water sports, Ballyalla has it all. Ennis is also fortunate to have beautiful wooded areas on its outskirts. Ballybeg Woods and Dromore Woods are popular destinations for tourists and locals alike with stunning walking trails to suit all abilities. John O’Sullivan Park (Lee’s Road) also benefits from wonderful wooded trails, in addition to a wide variety of sporting facilities. Among the many activities on offer is a built skateboard park, active trail and playground.

BURREN NATURE SANCTUARY A WONDERFUL AND MAGICAL PLACE TO VISIT

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n award-winning South Galway nature sanctuary is looking forward to reopening its doors to the public this month having been subjected to the coronavirus lockdown since early March. While it has been in existence for the past seven years, the Burren Nature Sanctuary near Kinvara is hoping that the lifting of the current travel ban will boost visitor numbers as it plays host to thousands of children on an annual basis. The centre, which has received international recognition for its boar walks, is hoping to appeal to primary schools and local visitors as it faces a challenging time ahead, according to its owners. Burren Nature Sanctuary closed its doors to the public on March 7 after a number of cases of Covid-19 were confirmed locally to Kinvara. But they have now reopened to the public 20/07/2020 13:25 and are relying on travel ban restrictions to be

eased considerably over the coming months as the owners say that it has been a tough few months. The sanctuary has been in existence for just seven years and last year attracted some 30,000 visitors, which included around 3,000 school tour children who were amazed by the nature and animals they experienced. Owner Mary Birmingham says that they opened for business back in 2013 and were grant-aided by the Galway Rural Development Leader Programme but she admits that it has been a major struggle to survive. â€œWe have fought hard to stay open year after year but we have survived and we take pride in an amazing local staffâ€?, she said. The 50-acre site, which was formerly a small suckler-cow operation, but it showcases the Burren habitats including a limestone pavement, orchid rich meadow, turlough along with hazel and ash woodland. A year after it opened, it was given an enterprise, arts and tourism award, and then they won the Cliffs of Moher Geopark award for Interpretation in 2017. There is a free audio tour app for visitors to download and take on the mile-long walks with beautiful shelters at five-minute intervals. In April they were accepted into a business support scheme. Their financial advisors indicated to them that unless there is a bailout grant for tourism attractions it is unclear if they will survive. â€œIf we can open at all it will be a bonus and if we do for how longâ€?, Mary said.

Last year alone, they welcomed over 30,000 visitors including 3,000 school tour children. Their 500 Santa children and 10,000 international visitors provided rave reviews. â€œWe have a wonderfully supportive local network and a family membership system to allow local families reduced admissions. â€œWe have supported many local causes including weekly donations to fundraisers and a yearly donation from our fairy wishing well of over â‚Ź1,000 to local children with special needsâ€?, Mary said. The owners organise free events such as the Che Day which raises more than â‚Ź4,000 for a wheelchair accessible car while Coole Music and Blood Bike West have also proved popular fundraising events. Mary Birmingham says that their award-winning conservation project â€˜The Burren Botany Bubbleâ€™ houses the national collection of Burren flora in partnership with the National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, working together to create the new National Seed Bank Project. The owners have produced a fascinating 15 minute interpretive film to educate visitors on the biodiversity of the Burren. They have also developed indoor and outdoor nature themed adventure playgrounds along with a popular fairy woodland. One reviewer who stopped off at the Burren Nature Sanctuary for the first time described it as â€œa wonderful and magical place to visitâ€?. From having something to eat in the cafĂŠ to walking the trail that took in ancient woodland, a famine village and a fairy wood, which they said was enchanting. It was suggested that there is lots for children to do at the centre and those who reviewed the facility couldnâ€™t recommend it highly enough. They said that it is a must-visit centre for those who come to The Burren. In another review it was stated: â€œThis farm has a vision and the vision is to expose people to the Burrenâ€™s flora and fauna, see how successful an organic farm can be, and take a magical walk into a fairy wood theyâ€™ve created with charming little doors at the base of several trees, all the while being led by Emilia, their adorable pig. â€œThere are many other animals: goats, sheep, lamas, rabbits, guinea pigs, and horses. They also have created a biosphere to maintain plants from the Burren territory that visitors can see all year roundâ€?.

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WILD ATLANTIC WAY IN GALWAY SLOW DOWN AND SOAK UP THE DELIGHTS ON OFFER

he Co Galway stage of the Wild Atlantic Way is 300km long. Starting from the village of Kinvara on the Galway border it finishes in the village of Leenaun near the Mayo border passing such delights as Dunguaire Castle, the vibrant Galway City known as the City of Tribes, Salthill Promenade, Ferry to the remote Aran Islands, Connemara, Roundstone, Ballyconneely, and the glorious Kylemore Abbey. The Wild Atlantic Way drive along the Galway coast takes at least two days to complete but two weeks would be ideal to properly soak in the county. Top Attractions on the Galway Stage of the Wild Atlantic Way The following is a list of the top 20 Attractions and ‘Things to See and Do’ on the Wild Atlantic Way from south to north starting at Kinvara with plenty more not mentioned here:

1. Kinvara - Dunguaire Castle and Medieval Banquet 2. Galway City, Eyre Square, Spanish Arch, Latin Quarter, Lynch Memorial and Quay Street 3. Galway Festivals - Galway Races, Arts Festival, Tedfest Aran Islands - Fr Ted and others 4. Salthill Promenade and Beach 5. Spiddal Village and Beach 6. Rossaveel and Carraroe Beach 7. Lettermore Island 8. Ferry or fly to the unique Aran Islands walking, cycling and more 9. Roundstone 10. Errisbeag Mountain (300m) Walk for scenic views over Roundstone 11. Ballyconneely Beaches and Links Golf Course 12. Sky Road Scenic Drive 13. Derroura Mountain Bike Trails 14. Killary Harbour

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE Entertainment options to suit for all weather

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he Co Clare stage of the Wild Atlantic Way is 230km long starting from the Killimer Tarbert Ferry and ending in the village of Kinvara on the Galway border. This section of the Wild Atlantic Way is packed with attractions from the world famous Cliffs of Moher and cliff top walk, to the Burren National Park, stunning beaches like Kilkee, to trips with Dolphins and top surf spots. This Wild Atlantic Way drive along the Clare coast takes at least two days to complete. However, you should try to spend at least 2 weeks visiting the top attractions below, meet the local people and experience the real Wild Ireland. Some of the best towns, villages and islands to visit on the Clare stage of the Wild Atlantic Way traveling south to north include Kilrush, Carrigaholt, Kilkee, Doonbeg, Quilty, Spanish Point, Miltown Malbay, Lahinch, Liscannor, Cliffs of Moher, Doolin Ferry to Aran Islands, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan and ending in the Galway village of Kinvara just across the border.

15. Fanore Beach 16. The Burren National Park - Europe’s largest Karst Landscape 17. Burren Way Long Distance Walking Trail 18. Birds of Prey Centre and Aillwee Cave, Ballyvaughan 19. Poulnabrone Ancient Dolmen, Ballyvaughan 20. Bishop’s Quarter Beach The Wild Atlantic Way is Ireland’s new long distance scenic driving route along the entire west coast of Ireland from Donegal in the north to Cork in the south. If you are looking for a holiday itinerary from a few days to several weeks, look no further as the Wild Atlantic Way route has it all. From cliff top views to great hikes and from historic cities to picture perfect coastal villages and some of the best surfing in the world, the Wild Atlantic Way drive caters for tourists of all ages and tastes. Slow down and experience the real Ireland.

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The following is a list of the top 20 Attractions and ‘Things to See and Do’ on the Wild Atlantic Way from south to north starting at the Killimer Ferry with plenty more not mentioned here: 1. Kilrush - Shannon Dolphin and Wildlife Centre 2. Kilrush - Scattery Island Monastery boat trip 3. Kilrush - Vandeleur Walled Garden 4. Doonaha beach, lighthouse and fort 5. Carrigaholt Castle and Rinevella Beach 6. Loop Head Lighthouse 7. Killkee - Beach and swim snorkel the pollock holes 8. Doonbeg beach, fort and Golf Club 9. Kayak to Mutton Island 10. Spanish Point Beach 11. Surfing and Links Golf in Lahinch 12. Cliffs of Moher and cliff walk from Liscannor to Hags Head and Doolin 13. Doolin Aran Islands ferry and Doolin Cave 14. Lisdoonvarna - Horse Riding and Match Making Festival

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15. Horse riding on Connemaras Beaches 16. Connemara National Park 17. Glencoaghan Horseshoe Loop Walk, Galway 18. Kylemore Abbey 19. Muckanaght, Benfree and Benbaun Loop Walk, Galway 20. Derrigimalagh Bog and Nature Reserve The Wild Atlantic Way is Ireland’s long distance scenic driving route along the entire west coast of Ireland from Donegal in the north to Cork in the south. If you are looking for a holiday itinerary from a few days to several weeks, look no further as the Wild Atlantic Way route has it all. From cliff top views to great hikes and from historic cities to picture perfect coastal villages and some of the best surfing in the world, the Wild Atlantic Way drive caters for tourists of all ages and tastes. Slow down and experience the real Ireland.

GALWAY’S LARGEST INDOOR FAMILY

WILD ATLANTIC WAY IN CLARE

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holt Castle are the most distinctive local landmarks. Carrigaholt also boasts a safe, sandy beach for swimming and water sports.

RIVERSIDE

LOOP HEAD PENINSULA

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Set within an important ecological environment, the village lies at the mouth of the Moyarta river, which flows into the Mouth of the Shannon about 15 kilometres from the westernmost extremity of the peninsula. Carrigaholt is centred between two harbours, and although both are used, only the one to the south of the village (known as the ‘new’ pier) is fully operational on a commercial basis. The pier serves local fishing boats,

A MUST VISIT FOR THE WEARY TRAVELLER

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delivering their catch to the local processing company, sea angling tours, and award-winning dolphin watching tours at the Mouth of the Shannon, home of the largest group of resident Bottlenose Dolphins in Europe. The village has an attractive centre, with distinctive streetscapes and quaint local character, and several pubs and restaurants. The harbour, the church (built 1882-1883) Keatings Bar.pdf and, most important, the ruins of Carriga-

Moyasta and Querrin are two small, upriver communities nestled close to the wildlife haven that is Poulnasherry (Poll na nOisrí – Pool of the Oysters) Bay. Moyasta village, gateway to the Loop Head peninsula, is the home of the West Clare Railway and of the celebrated Nell Galvin Traditional Music Weekend . It is also a draw for bird-watchers because of the many significant species – including Greenland White-Fronted Geese, Whooper Swans and Brent Geese – that overwinter there. Querrin, on the southern coast of the peninsula about six kilometres from Kilkee, is the home port of the Sally O’Keeffe. Querrin has a pier and a creek which fills at high tide, protected by what is known locally as THE IRISH TIMES the Island. Querrin CreekThe is a well-known Place Holiday bird-watching spot and istoBest listed as a Special in Ireland FINALIST Protected Area (SPA). There is good fishing from Querrin pier, and it’s perfect for swimming. The handball alley in the village is a centre of activity in 1 8/20/13 1:25 PM the summer months.

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KILKEE Kilkee, Loop Head’s main town, is built around a horseshoe bay with a kilometre of golden, blue-flag beach. Because of the Duggerna Reef (locally known as the Pollock Holes) stretching across its mouth, the bay is naturally sheltered from the Atlantic, and Kilkee beach is the safest in Co. Clare. Kilkee has been a famous resort for almost 200 years. When a passenger steamer service began plying the river between Limerick and Kilrush in 1816, visitors started arriving in droves to take the waters in Kilkee. Soon it became a favourite bathing place of the Victorian aristocracy, and its popularity was enhanced by the opening of the West Clare Railway in the late 1800s. Charlotte Brontë, Alfred Tennyson and William Makepeace Thackeray were among the most illustrious visitors to Kilkee, while entertainers such as Percy French regularly packed its concert halls. In more recent times, visitors have included Ché Guevara, Richard Harris and Russell Crowe. Kilkee retains much of its Victorian character, and the 19th century part of the town has been designated an Architectural Conservation Area.

KILBAHA Kilbaha, the very last village on the Loop Head peninsula, is tucked into a small, sheltered bay at the western edge of the Shan-

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Bay View Hotel

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Kilkee, Co.Clare Set against the backdrop of the Wild Atlantic Way in Co. Clare, The Bay View Hotel has been run by the Hickie Family since 1883. Whether you are here to explore the Loop Head Peninsula or just to unwind with a few days away, a warm and friendly welcome awaits you. The Hickie’s have lovingly blended their generations of Irish hospitality with luxurious boutique guestrooms, the award winning Pier Restaurant, serving the best of locally sourced ingredients, and Hickie’s traditional bar.

THE IRISH TIMES

Keating’s Bar & Restaurant, Pier Road, Kilbaha, Co. Clare

Food served daily in our bar & restaurant from 12.30pm - 8.30pm

The Best Place to Holiday in Ireland

W INNE R 00353-65-9058009 | Bernie: 00353–86-8241846 | Email: keatingbar@eircom.net LOOP HEAD PENINSULA

Place to Holiday www.keatingsbar.com The Best in Ireland 2013 THE IRISH TIMES

The TIMES THE Best IRISH Place to Holiday in Ireland

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THE IRISH TIMES

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The Best Place to Holiday in Ireland

Open all year round, catering for everything from cycling & touring groups to family reunions, birthday's and other events.

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info@bayviewkilkee.com | (065) 905 6058 | www.bayviewkilkee.com

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non Estuary. Looking south across the river, the village enjoys arresting views of Kerry Head and the Brandon Mountains. Kilbaha’s small, picturesque pier was built in the early 19th century to cater for the large numbers of people making their living from fishing, seaweed gathering and piloting the large ships going up the Shannon to Limerick docks. It was also used by cargo vessels

bringing supplies to Loop Head lighthouse, four miles west of the village. Around the headland from the pier, and visible as you approach the village from the east, is a castellated turret, built by the Keane family for the Victorian ladies to enjoy the view. The ruins of the Keane home stand nearby on the top of the hill. Kilbaha is the home of the Little Ark

which you can visit at the Star of the Sea Church in the village.

CARRIGAHOLT Carrigaholt, (translation: ‘Rock of the Fleet’) is a picturesque fishing village on the southern side of Loop Head, about 10 kilometres southwest of Kilkee.

OPENING

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Fine dining in the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way using only the finest locally sourced ingredients, Available for private parties and events. Contact us : info@pollockandporter.com

Keating’s Bar & Restaurant, Pier Road, Kilbaha, Co. Clare 00353-65-9058009 | Bernie: 00353–86-8241846 |

Email: keatingbar@eircom.net

www.keatingsbar.com

Keating’s Bar & Restaurant, Pier Road, Kilbaha, Co. Clare 00353-65-9058009 | Bernie: 00353–86-8241846 |

Email: keatingbar@eircom.net

www.keatingsbar.com

SELF-DRIVE GALWAY TOURS

DRIVES NEVER TO BE FORGOTTEN COAST ROAD DRIVE Taking in Galway, Spiddal, Casla and returning to Clifden. A distance of 123km (77 miles), approximately. A scenic landscape of granite rock and countless sea inlets. Stop off at Ceardlann (Craft Studios) and Cnoc Suain Cultural Retreat in Spiddal. Further on, divert at Costelloe (Casla) and explore Ceantar na nOileán (a group of islands connected by bridges and causeways). Between Ballyconneely and Clifden, is a monument commemorating the Alcock and Brown landing site.

THE EASTERN DRIVE Taking in Galway, Oranmore, Athenry, Ballinasloe, Portumna and returning to Galway. A distance of 150km (94 miles), approximately. Journey to the heart of East Galway, visiting many historical sites along the way. Highlights include Oranmore Castle, the medieval town of Athenry (including Athenry Castle and local Heritage Centre) and the popular cruising town of Portumna where you can see Portumna Castle & Gardens, Forest Park and Dominican Friary.

CORRIB COUNTRY DRIVE Taking in Galway, Oughterard, Maam Cross, Cong, Headford and returning to Galway. A distance of 106km (66 miles), approximately. A route that takes you around all sides of the mighty Lough Corrib north of Galway City. As well as the breathtaking scenery of the

Lough, other highlights include Aughnanure Castle near Oughterard, and Cong Village (famous for ‘The Quiet Man’ movie). Annaghdown (detour after Headford) on the shores of the Lough is a tranquil setting with a small pier and series of ecclesiastical ruins.

NORTH WEST COASTAL DRIVE Taking in Clifden, Renvyle, Letterfrack and returning to Clifden. A distance of 98km (61 miles), approximately. Following the famous Sky Road out of Clifden, this route takes in the spectacular coastal scenery of North Connemara where many of the nearby islands are visible. Further on, highlights include Connemara National Park and Kylemore Abbey near Letterfrack, and Killary Harbour (Ireland’s only Fjord!) near Leenane.

NORTH WEST COASTAL TOUR You leave Clifden by taking the scenic Sky Road route, passing the now derelict castle of John D’Arcy, founder of Clifden, and continue the circuit of the peninsula, with Clifden Bay to the south and Streamstown Bay to the north. At the western end, fine views of Inishturk and Turbot Islands lie before you. Join the main road north from Clifden at the head of Streamstown Bay and then take the left turn for the village of Claddaghduff. If the tide is out here, you can drive across the strand keeping inside the painted wooden poles, to Omey Island. Beforehand, however, enquire locally

about the state of the tides, and if they and time permit, you can enjoy a pleasant stroll on the island. From here, spectacular views of the more distant Friar and High Islands are obtained. Continuing the journey through Claddaghduff and around the coast road to the village of Cleggan, great views of the islands of Inishark and Inishbofin are obtained while to the right, the foothills of the Twelve Bens are already to be seen. You can break the journey for the day and take the ferry to Inishbofin, an island of lovely views and ancient sites. Alternatively, you can continue the journey from Cleggan by land for 12km to Letterfrack village where you can visit Connemara National Park Centre open from mid-May to the end of September and/or Ocean’s Alive Visitor centre at Derryinver. Afterwards, you can continue northwards by turning left in Letterfrack, and left again for Renvyle. Tully mountain rises to the left. The village of Tullycross lies 3km north of Letterfrack.

THE VALLEY DRIVE Taking in Clifden, Inagh Valley, Killary Harbour and Maam Valley. A distance of 100km (62 miles), approximately. A journey that takes you through the heart of Connemara’s impressive mountain scenery. Leenane village and Killary Harbour are highlights along the route, as well as views of the many lakes dotted throughout Connemara. A short detour near Recess will bring

you to Ballinahinch Castle and lake.

THE LADY GREGORY AND YEATS HERITAGE DRIVE Taking in Gort, Coole Park, Thoor Ballylee, Kilchreest and Loughrea. A distance of 33 kilometres (20 miles), approximately. A short drive that incorporates historical sites associated with Lady Gregory and WB Yeats. First stop is the Coole Nature Reserve, with the Kiltartan Gregory Museum nearby. Continuing on, divert to the right for Thoor Ballylee (summer home of WB Yeats). Proceed to Kilchreest Village and view Woodville Walled Garden, Roxborough Gates and Killinane Graveyard. Finally, the magnificent St Brendan’s Cathedral can be visited in Loughrea Town. You may also like to include Kilmacdaugh and Coole Park.

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a Fantastic Family ation in East Clare

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he name of the ‘Burren’ region is derived from the word ‘Boireann’, which means ‘rocky land’ in the Gaelic language, which is appropriate for this vast limestone plateau in north west County Clare. In the 1640s, a surveyor commissioned by Oliver Cromwell described the area as ‘a savage land, yielding neither water enough to drown a man, nor tree to hang him, nor soil enough to bury’. Although few trees grow in this rocky place, many other plants thrive. The Burren is a unique botanical environment in which Mediterranean and alpine plants rare to Ireland grow side by side. From May to August, an amazing array of flowers creates bright splashes of

colour in this otherwise austere landscape. Glaciation and wind and rain erosion have formed limestone pavements with deep crevices known as ‘grykes’. The porous rock is easily penetrated by rain water, which has gouged out an extensive cave system beneath the rocky plateau. The Burren National Park and Geopark is a truly magnificent karst limestone area which has a combination of many unusual features which make it unique in Europe. Its geology, flora, fauna, caves, archaelology, and history set it apart as a place of great mystery and beauty. The Burren, together with the Cliffs of Moher was awarded UNESCO recognised Global Geopark status in 2011. In an area of

GETTING TO THE BURREN By bus, or car. Bus Eireann Route 423 provides a service from Galway to The Burren. Alternatively follow the N6 from Galway to Kilcolgan, and then the N67 to The Burren.

WIN a Fantastic Family Staycation in East Clare

AWAKEN YOUR CURIOSITY: CYCLING THE WEST

rize? DISCOVER THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE WEST

THE UNIQUE LANDSCAPE OF THE BURREN T

only 100 square miles you can find crystal clean rivers, ancient castles, peaceful lakes, sheer cliffs, magical caves, lush green valleys, bare rock mountains, green walking trails along with the many relics of ancient civilisation including round towers, portal dolmens, hidden churches and sacred wells. From geology to botany and from archaeology to outdoor adventure there is something for visitors of all ages. Pristine beaches with the backdrop of sculpted limestone mountains provide a wonderful setting for lovers of the outdoors. The Burren region is a mecca for those looking for some of the best hiking, cycling, surfing, kayaking or caving in the country. There are many great towns and villages to visit while touring the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. The area is home to a highly productive community of cottage industry food producers specialising in everything from smoked salmon, honey, jams and cheeses to name but a few. Why not take time to indulge in the best local foods, or stop in one of the many towns and villages to enjoy a great traditional music session.

WHERE TO STAY The Burren has a wide choice of cosy and friendly places to stay including small hotels, hostels, self-catering holiday homes, guesthouses and B&Bs.

FOLLOW THE COAST The Burren is surrounded by beautiful coastal towns. Don’t miss Ballyvaughan and Kinvara if you are travelling north, and The Aran Islands, and Doolin, if you are travelling south.

THINGS TO DO IN THE BURREN Explore the great chaos of rocks that is the Burren. Identify the grikes and clints, and marvel at the magnitude of this near-lunar landscape. The Doolin area is popular with cavers. A little over 1km north of Roadford you’ll find Doolin Cave, which boasts an enormous stalactite that looks like a giant squid. Savour an evening in Vaughan’s Pub. Seafood, traditional foods and local produce feature on Vaughan’s appealing menu. The pub has a big reputation in Irish music circles. There’s music in the bar every night during the summer and on many nights the rest of the year also. The adjacent barn is the scene of terrific set-dancing sessions on Thursday and Sunday nights. Have a pint under the big tree out front.

T: 087 7857569 | T: 087 6183894 | E: burrenwest@eircom.net | E: info@linnalla.ie Cafe Linnalla based on the western end of the Flaggy shore, in New Quay North Clare, serving real ice cream, made freshly here on our farm from the milk of our shorthorn cows. We are the most westerly ice cream parlour in Europe and were nominated one of the “50 secrets of the Wild Atlantic way” by Failte Ireland. We serve great coffee, mouth-watering desserts, muffins, cakes and brownies. Enjoy a coffee and an ice cream sundae while taking in the breath-taking views of Galway bay. It is an ideal stop on your walk on the flaggy shore as it is the midway point on the looped walk. Indoor and outdoor seating is provided and a children’s playground.

€1 off

a scoop of ice cream with this advert.

n, all you need to do is visit Clare County Council and The Clare Champion are offering readers the chance to win a family staycation in East e. You will be asked two simple questions. Clare. East Clare is always a special place to refresh your spirits, and even more so during these times. If you are lucky drawn from the entries with the correct answer. enough to win, you will be based in Tuamgraney in East Clare, part of Ireland's Hidden Heartlands. The area is dotted Friday, August 14, 2020.

amily Clare

DON’T MISS WHAT’S NEW ALONG THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

with almost 40 lakes and boasts the unrivalled assets of the Lough Derg Blueway and the Shannon Waterway.

The Prize

Enjoy a Stay in the Award-Winning Clareville House, Tuamgraney The lucky winner will enjoy a Two-Night Break for a family of four (2 adults and 2 children under 12 sharing a family room), staying in Clareville House, in the beautiful heritage village of Tuamgraney, East Clare - adjacent to Lough Derg. Clareville House is an award-winning 4Star B&B, renowned for its breakfasts and excellent hospitality. The ance to win a family staycation in East ore so during these times. If you are prize luckyincludes the two-night family stay and breakfast both mornings. Clareville House has completed the Certified Covid-19 Safety Charter to d's Hidden Heartlands. The area is dotted eway and 58 the Shannon Waterway. help ensure you have a safe and stress-free break. Visit www.ClarevilleHouse.ie

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THINGS TO DO IN GALWAY DIVE INTO THE GREAT OUTDOORS With its vast expanse of blanket bog, the wonderfully distinct landscape of Connemara makes a lasting impression. They’ve been coming here to ‘get away from it all’ for centuries - and what a perfect location in which to momentarily escape the clamour of modern living. Pedal power can be found along the length of the Great Western Greenway only a short drive from Galway city. It’s become a firm favourite among locals and visitors alike since its full 42km route opened in 2011. Those who love cycling in areas of great natural beauty simply must venture along this trail that follows the line of the old Westport-Achill railway. Water sports lovers are in for a treat in this part of Ireland, too. They’re proud of the waves that wash to shore in Co Clare and places like Lahinch are celebrated by surfers from near and far. If deep-sea diving is your thing, you should head to Inishbofin island where the crystal clear waters that surround it offer the optimum conditions for those who want to explore the marine world beneath the surface. Don’t forget, you can enjoy the great outdoors without breaking sweat - or getting wet. It’s not uncommon to practice yoga poses on the Burren and what better way to ‘salute the sun’ first thing in the morning than among the wildflowers and rocky limestone vista of this unforgettable landscape.

dar favourite. Every May, the people of this singularly beautiful part of County Clare honour the produce and livestock of the region and show that the best food is seasonal, free-range and local. Dedicated music events can be found at virtually every turn along the Wild Atlantic Way From Kinvara to Clifden and from Clarenbridge toTKH_Trib_WAW.pdf Ennis, there are festivals and 1 20/07/2020 events that celebrate food and drink, walk-

to be part of that unique community vibe that is true to the Wild Atlantic Way.

FEAST FOR THE PALATE Ever since 1954, they have been descending on the Co Galway coastal village of Clarenbridge to celebrate the oyster. This marvellous mollusc is elevated above all other foods during the Clarenbridge Oyster Festival every September.

Even travelling to your destination can leave long-lasting memories, Negotiating the cliff-hugging coast road on Achill or driving the evocatively named Sky Road in Connemara where you will want to stop and drink in the magnificent surrounds, are adventures in themselves.

FABULOUS FAMILY FUN IN THE WILD Time seems to move at a different pace when you’re travelling by horse-drawn caravan. This traditional mode of transport allows you to experience the beauty of the countryside in a way that just wouldn’t be the same by car. You’re at one with the landscape as you trundle along country boreens. It’s family fun with a difference. The Wild Atlantic Way is all about familial experiences far removed from the norm. Families with a love of rural walks or cycling - and an interest in history - should explore the Derrigimlagh Trail, near Clifden in Connemara, now forever associated with aviators Alcock and Brown and cable pioneer Marconi, while water sports enthusiasts of all ages can enjoy a variety of water sports from sailing to paddle boarding right along the coast. There are urban pleasures to investigate

ing and hiking, running and cycling - and every arts discipline under the sun taking place year round. Some have been rooted in the same town or village for decades. Others are completely new events that vie to do something that little bit different. Either way, you meet people who are passionate and dedicated about making their patch of the Wild Atlantic Way the very best it can be. 19:43 And you’ll want to return time and again

This is a place where a walk in beautiful fishing villages like Roundstone, Co Galway will give you an appetite to experience the freshest of fish - and the bounty of the sea has helped sustain these vibrant communities for generations. Seafood is king right along the Wild Atlantic Way, and you will experience stunning dishes to demonstrate just how great the local catch is, but fear not, all carnivores, there is plenty to tempt you too. Connemara Hill Lamb is famed around these parts - it’s as free-range as you can get, reared on a diet of natural fresh herbs, heathers and grasses dictated by nature itself. Picnicing al fresco, especially at the scenically located Discovery Points, such as Loop Head in Co Clare, is a perfect way to enjoy the great food of the area, but there is a plentiful supply of traditional pubs that take the humble chowder and seafood platter to a new level, not least when accompanied by a creamy pint of porter and a traditional seisiún. And there’s a host of high-end options too, including a pair of Michelin-starred restaurants in Galway city that are helping to make the City of the Tribes one of the most exciting destinations for seasoned foodies on the island of Ireland. Whether it’s simple or sophisticated, this is food to savour with family and friends.

FIND A PASSION FOR FESTIVALS

in Galway and Ennis - great shops, cafes and restaurants - and memorable activities off the-beaten-track, whether it’s taking a guided boat tour around Clew Bay, where there’s reputed to be an island for every day of the year, to celebrating the splendid isolation of Loop Head Lighthouse, one of the great beacons on the Atlantic coast.

Families with a fondness for adventure sports will want to explore Killary Harbour on the Mayo-Galway border: it’s the country’s only fjord, and now a mecca for dare-devils young and old, while those after more leisurely downtime may want to take a reviving stroll on one of the west’s most pristine beaches at Dog’s Bay, Co Galway.

It is a fortnight in July where everybody who’s anybody in the arts world seems to descend on the City of the Tribes. The Galway International Arts Festival celebrates theatre, music and literature - and more and its packed programme is top-drawer. Although cancelled for this year, it is hoped it will return in 2021 in a restyled format. It’s a reminder that the Wild Atlantic Way is not just a place of extraordinary beauty, but a region with a wonderful cultural heritage that can enrich our lives. And the huge range of festivals and events are there to thrill, inform and entertain us. Whether it’s a multi-day extravaganza or an intimate gathering, they reinforce the truth that so many visitors to the area quickly sense - the way of life is different here. The Burren Slow Food Festival is a calen-

CMY

CLIFFS OF MOHER GEOPARK

◀◀ A view of Doolin from Doonagore Castle.

The Burren and Cliffs of Moher Geopark has been designated as a UNESCO site following a vote at the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) General Conference in Paris in November 2015. See burrengeopark.ie

VISIT MILTOWN MALBAY With a thriving music scene, and host to the annual Willie Clancy Summer School, one of Ireland’s great traditional music events, Miltown Malbay is a must-see on any visit to County Clare. See clare.ie/place/miltown-malbay/

THE BURREN PERFUMERY The Burren is home to a multitude of small enterprises, including the stunning family-run Burren Perfumery. In the Blending Room you can see how the products, including perfumes, soaps and candles are made, or enjoy lunch in the Tea Rooms. See burrenperfumery.com

VISIT BUNRATTY CASTLE

THINGS TO DO IN CLARE C

lare is home to a thriving musical scene, with the Willie Clancy Music Festival taking place every July. The magnificent Cliffs of Moher tops the list of places to see and things to do in Ireland. Visitor numbers at the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience were up 15.8% during 2015. Standing 214m (702 feet) at their highest point they stretch for 8 kilometres (5 miles) along the Atlantic coast of County Clare in the west of Ireland. On a clear day one can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, as well as the Twelve Pins and the Maum Turk mountains in Connemara, Loop Head to the south and the Dingle Peninsula and Blasket Islands in Kerry.

CATCH A WAVE

Cinched between the ocean on one side and the Shannon Estuary on the other, this tiny peninsula would be an island but for a meagre mile of land connecting it to the rest of Clare. See loophead.ie

THE BURREN FOOD TRAIL Winners of the European Destination of Excellence (EDEN) 2015 – Tourism and Local Gastronomy, as well as the Irish Restaurants

Association Foodie Town 2015 title, the Burren Food Trail members are bound by their commitment to building a sustainable future for the region. See burren.ie/food-dining/burren-food-trail/

Built in 1425, Bunratty Castle was restored to its former medieval splendour in 1954, and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art, capturing the mood of those times. See shannonheritage.com

DINE THE HEART DINE IN IN THE HEART OF OF ENNIS ENNIS Brendan O’Regan The Town Hall

DINE IN THE HEART » The Town Hall OF ENNIS » Poet’s Corner Bar »

» Poet’s

Corner Bar

Restaurant

Live Traditional Music in Poet’s Corner Bar Thursday to Sunday

SCHOOL TOURS • SCOUTS BIRTHDAY PARTIES SUMMER CAMPS FLIGHT SIMUL ATION AVIATION MUSEUM

The Surf City of Lahinch is awash with surfers all year round. Nestled at the head of Liscannor Bay, beside a 2 km long beach of golden sands. The shape of the resort creates Atlantic breakers that attract surfing and canoeing enthusiasts from all over the world. If you’re visiting at this time of year, take advantage of the surf schools offering group lessons and one-on-one sessions. See clare.ie/place/lahinch/

» Brendan O’Regan

»»The »»Brendan O’Regan Restaurant Brendan O’Regan The Town Town Hall Hall »»Poet’s Restaurant Poet’s Corner Corner Bar Bar Restaurant Live Traditional Music T: +353 65 682 8127 in Poet’sE:Corner Bar sales@oldgroundhotel.ie Live Bar Live Traditional Traditional Music Music in in Poet’s Poet’s Corner Corner Bar Thursday to Sunday Thursday Thursday to to Sunday Sunday

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ENJOY A SESSION Live music is king in county Clare, so head along to Kenny’s Pub in Lahinch where you might find Lisa Hannigan or Luka Bloom in session.

DISCOVER LOOP HEAD Loop Head is a slender finger of land pointing out to sea from the most westerly point of County Clare, on Ireland’s Atlantic coast.

A W O R L D of A V I A T I O N IRISH AVIATION FOUNDATION CLG. Link Road, Shannon, Co. Clare, Ireland

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21/07/2016 21/07/2016 09:10 09:10

GET AWAY FROM IT ALL WITH A SPELL-BINDING VISIT TO THE ARAN ISLANDS

f you want to get a glimpse of the real Gaelic Ireland, then a visit to the Aran Islands is a must. They sit on the very edge of western Europe, just off the coast of Galway and draw visitors from far and wide to see their unique beauty, culture, history and heritage. So spell-binding are these islands, that they have been ranked as number seven in the top island destinations in the world by National Geographic in December 2007. The Aran Islands are a group of three islands situated in Galway Bay, just about 45km off the coast of County Galway in the west of Ireland. These islands are very special places as they have remained one of the last remaining parts of the country, which still bear a very strong sense of Irish culture and language. The islands are ‘Gaeltachts’ (Irish-speaking areas) and their location has helped them to preserve and protect these traditions against foreign influences on the mainland down through the years. The largest of the three island is Inis Mór which is just 12km by 3km in size and has a population of about 900 people. It is one of the most popular island destinations in Ireland. It’s of huge historical interest with over 50 different historic monuments dotted all over the island, the largest and most impressive being Dun Aengus.

Dun Aengus is a prehistoric fort built during the Bronze Age at the top of a 100 metre high cliff. The fort is a fantastic example of a stone fort which is thought to be over 2000 years old! Dun Aengus is said to have been built by Aonghusa who was a chief of the Fir Bolg - so it translates as the ‘Fort of Aonghusa’. The impressive stone fort has three enclosures to defend against the enemy. If you look closely enough at one of the walls you will notice vertical, jagged rocks pertruding at an angle for optimal fortification. The island has unspoilt sandy beaches with clear blue waters, green fields with stone walls, beautiful cliff walks and spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean – it’s really no wonder that it has been the setting for a movie and the inspiration for many writers and artists who frequent the island regularly. The main village on the island is Kilronan, which is where visitors to Inis Mór disembark. It’s a lively spot during the Summer months, so pop into the local pub for a creamy pint of Guinness and mingle with the locals who will enthral you with the island folklore – which they are very proud of. Inis Meáin is the middle island and the less visited of the three, so if you really want to get away from it all, head here. It

has superb views of the Cliffs of Moher and has become a popular destination for diving due to its clear unpolluted waters. It has a share of historical attractions and an unusual flora and fauna similar to that of the Burren. The island has a population of about 200 people and depends largely on fishing and sheep rearing which is important for making the famous woolly Aran Island jumpers. Inis Oírr is the smallest one of the islands and has a population of about 300 people. It has a distinctive charm about it and the local folk on the island still very much live a traditional Irish way of life. The little village on the island has a popular Irish pub, which is a great spot to enjoy a traditional Irish music session at its best!

GETTING THERE Getting to these offshore islands is a pleasant experience. Aran Island Ferries operates a year-round ferry to Inis Mór from Rossaveal. The crossing takes about 35 minutes. Rossaveal is 40 kms west of Galway City. A direct bus services is available from Queen Street in Galway City Centre to the Rossaveal ferryport 1.5 hours prior to sailings. From May-September Aran Island Ferries also operates from Inis Mór to Inis Oírr and Inis Meáin. For more information

THE ARAN ISLANDS

DISCOVER ISLAND CULTURE ON THE EDGE OF EUROPE

see the Aran Island Ferries website (www. aranislandferries.com). An alternative route to the islands is available from Doolin, Co Clare and is operated (April to October) by Doolin Ferries (www.doolinferries.com) and by O’Brien Line Ferries (www.obrienline.com). You can also reach the islands by air using the Aer Arann Islands service from Connemara Regional Airport at Inverin, 30 kms west of Galway City. The flight is only 10 minutes but provides a scenic view of Galway Bay during the flight. For more see the Aer Arann Islands website (www.aerarannislands.ie)

GETTING AROUND On arrival, you may consider exploring the islands by bike and there are a few local operators on each island, usually based close to the pier. On Inis Mór Aran Bike Hire located by the pier provide a good choice of rental bikes for almost all requirements, see ( www.aranislandsbikehire.com) The islands are also easily explored by foot and are a paradise for outdoor activities like hiking, fishing, swimming, diving, surfing or birdwatching. You can also travel by horse and cart and you’ll see the operators lined up by the pier from May to September.

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he city of Galway, the most convenient access point for the region, is deserving of a visit in its own right. Compact, lively and cosmopolitan, there is plenty to attract the visitor, including great shops, musical pubs, theatres and clubs. The old town gate, known as Spanish Arch, houses the Galway City Museum. To the north west of Galway is the vast expanse of Lough Corrib. The River Corrib drains the lake into Galway Baythrough the centre of the city. Oughterard, a pretty village also called “The Gateway to Connemara”, is a well-known angling centre - there are boat trips from here across the lake to Cong. Close to Oughterard, Aughnanure Castle is a restored six storey tower house standing on a rocky islet. Between the western shore of Lough Corrib and the northern shore of Galway Bay, is a wild and uninhabited expanse of low granite hills, small tarns, bog and coniferous forest that offers superb, traffic-free cycling. The region to the south of Galway Bay, consisting of County Clare and part of County Galway is rich in both scenery and

history. The pretty village of Clarinbridge, a few miles south of Galway, hosts an annual oyster festival – it is a good place to sample local shellfish. Gort is a handsome 18th century market town. The market place has a weighing house, huge scales and pump. Nearby Coole Park was once the home of the author Lady Gregory. Nothing remains of the house except a magnificent avenue of cedars and a copper beech bearing the carved initials of many Irish literati including Shaw, Yeats and O’Casey. South of Gort is Kilmacduagh, a beautiful monastic site with several churches and a (slightly leaning) round tower. Ennis, the county town has a maze of arched tunnel passageways that link the narrow medieval streets. The ruined 13th century friary dominates the town. A few miles south is Quin Abbey, and a little further on Bunratty Castle and Folk Park are major attractions for those with an interest in Ireland’s past. Due west from Ennis are the attractive Atlantic coastal resorts of Kilrush and Kil-

kee. South of Kilkee, the Loop Head Peninsula is a relatively undiscovered scenic gem. A ride around here is a never-to-be forgotten delight! Views from the Loop Head lighthouse are sublime. The Atlantic coastline north of Kilkee is a series of spectacular strands – some of Ireland’s best surfing resorts, such as Spanish Point and Lahinch are found here. North of Lahinch the majestic Cliffs of Moher that extend for 8 km along the coast are one of the most outstanding natural features in the country. The fishing village of Doolin at the northern end of the cliffs is famous for its traditional music sessions. Ferries to the Aran Islands run from Doolin harbour. A few miles inland, the colourful spa town of Lisdoonvarna finds fame as the matchmaking capital of Ireland. Come in September if you are looking for a life partner. In the north west of Clare is the unique area called The Burren – apart from its unique beauty this vast limestone plateau is packed with interest for geologists and botanists. The stark bare rock resembling

a lunar landscape is littered with dolmens, cairns, round towers and Celtic crosses. The Burren Interpretative Centre is at Kilfenora. The coast road north from Doolin to Ballyvaughan is another cycling gem – dolphins and seals can often be seen from the viewpoint at Black Head. Just south of Ballyvaughan are the Ailwee Cave, and the much photographed Poulnabrone Dolmen. In the Eastern Burren, the village of Corofin hosts the Clare Heritage Centre and Museum. The restored castle of Dysert O’Dea, the site of an ancient hermitage, is a short distance from the town. The wonderful Burren Perfumery at Carron uses native plants to create products inspired by the surrounding landscape. The picturesque village of Kinvara on the southern shores of Galway Bay is a great place to view and photograph the famous Galway hookers (traditional sailing boats – in case you were wondering!). On the edge of the town, Dunguaire Castle is a restored 16th Century fortification. Rossaveal is the departure point for ferries making the 40 minute crossing to Inish-

more, largest of the three Aran Islands that guard the entrance to Galway Bay. The islands are the summits of a tilted reef that stretches out from the limestone surface of The Burren. The islanders are fiercely proud of their culture and traditions – and Irish remains the principal language. Attractions include dramatic clifftop forts such as Dun Aengus and the Black Fort, local crafts including the knitwear that bears the Aran name, and traditional music sessions. The bicycle and the pony and trap are the most common forms of transport on the islands. The sublime beauty of Connemara, a region that captures the essence of the West of Ireland, draws visitors from all around the world. Bounded on the east by the two great loughs of Corrib and Mask and on the west, north and south by the Atlantic Ocean, Connemara is almost an island. The peaks of the Twelve Bens rise above a plain of bog lands, boulders and black lakes that combine to produce a unique landscape. The encircling coastline is a beautiful patchwork of little islands, mini-peninsulas and promontories. Semi-wild Connemara

ponies graze on the coastal salt marshes – their prized qualities of hardiness, agility, intelligence and jumping ability are rooted in their environment. The Connemara roads go around rather than over the hills, so cycling is not too arduous. Clifden, the “capital” of Connemara, is a bustling market town. With its colourful shops and galleries, excellent restaurants, and lively pubs it is a great place to relax and enjoy the Connemara atmosphere. The Sky Road to the west of Clifden gives wonderful views over the surrounding coastline. Further to the north, Clegganis the departure point for the ferry to the island of Inishbofin. Along the coast to the south of Clfden are the beautiful beaches at Coral Strand, Dogs Bay and Gurteen Bay. Just outside Ballyconneely is the spot where pioneer aviators Alcock and Brown crash landed after the first trans-Atlantic flight in 1919. Further along the coast Roundstone is a pretty fishing village with a craft centre that specializes in the manufacture of traditional instruments.

The Connemara National Park covers a vast area, including the slopes of the Twelve Bens. There are several hiking trails and an information and interpretative centre. Every turn in the road that wends its way through the lovely Lough Inagh Valley offers a new photo opportunity. Close to the village of Letterfrack, Kylemore Abbey occupies a stunning location. Now a Benedictine convent, it was originally built as a private home. The attractions include a scale replica of Norwich Cathedral and beautifully landscaped gardens. East from Kylemore, Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, is a spectacular natural deep water anchorage. There are short cruises on the fjord from Leenane. This village and its surroundings were the location for the film “The Field”. Over the hills from the Maam Valley lies Joyces Country and the beautiful lakes of Nafooey, Mask and Cong. In the village of Cong, Cong Abbey and Ashford Castle are the main attractions. The village was the setting for “The Quiet Man”. The Partry Mountains, a sparsely inhabited upland

region between Cong and Clew Bay provide some wonderful cycling routes. Westport is a bustling centre that grew up around Westport House, the stately home of the Earl of Sligo. The town is an intriguing mix of the old and the new, with traditional shop fronts alongside continental style cafes. There are plenty of opportunities to listen to traditional music in the evenings. West along the shores of island-strewn Clew Bay is the village of Murrisk, site of Murrisk Abbey and the starting point for the ascent of Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s holiest mountain. St Patrick is reputed to have spent 40 days fasting on the summit – his discomfort must have been somewhat alleviated by the great views! Close by is the striking sculpture that is the National Famine Memorial. Further to the west, Louisburgh was the birthplace of the legendary pirate queen, Grace O’Malley. To the south between the Mweelrea Mountains and the Sheeffry Hills lies the hauntingly beautiful Doolough Valley – made even more poignant by the memorial to the victims of the Irish famine who died during a winter trek in a fruitless quest for food.

CYCLING THE WEST OF IRELAND 66

PORTUMNA CASTLE A BUILDING IN TRANSITION P

ortumna Castle and Demesne occupy a magnificent location on the shores of Lough Derg on the River Shannon. Although gutted by fire in 1826, the Castle is still an imposing example of Irish architecture of the early 17th Century. Built before 1618 by Richard de Burgo, 4th Earl of Clanricarde, the castle became the main seat of the de Burgo family for over 200 years. Architecturally, the building marks the transition from the medieval Tower House to the Renaissance style manor house with complimentary influences from both peri-

ods. Following the fire and the ravages of time, the castle degenerated into a roofless shell. However, since 1968, the Office of Public Works re-roofed the building and based on extensive archaeological and historical research, other major conservation and partial restoration works continue to be carried out by a team of skilled craftsmen. The imposing façade of the castle faces north and is approached by a long avenue and formal gardens. The dramatic approach has three formal enclosures which contain geometric and regular plantings, an old shrub rose garden and a walled kitchen gar-

den, all combining to re-create a sense of the original 17th century setting. The ground floor of the castle is open to the public and houses an exhibition on the history and restoration of the building and the de Burgo family. The virtual reality DVD presentation adds to the exhibition, bringing the story to life. Portumna Castle is surrounded by the towns’ local attractions – Lough Derg, the River Shannon and Portumna Forest Park. Activities include golfing, hiking, go-karting, various heritage sites and more, which makes Portumna and its surrounds a really

SALTHILL — FUN FOR ALL THE FAMILY

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You’re sure of a warm welcome at Ireland’s favourite seaside resort

worthwhile area to visit. Location: Portumna town – adjacent to lake, the River Shannon and Portumna Forest Park. Bus Route(s): Contact Bus Éireann, Travel Centre +353 (1) 836 6111 Guided Tours: Maximum No: 30. Duration: 45 minutes Seasonal Events: Please check in advance using contact details listed above. Additional Information: Visitors with a disability have access to the Gardens and Tea Rooms with Limited access to the Castle.

Salthill is all about family fun — and when it comes to a friendly welcome and things to do for all ages, the Galway seaside resort is simply the best. Nowhere else will you get such an unbeatable range of activities, both outdoors and indoors, all against the backdrop of the magnificent Galway Bay. Whether it’s a short stay on your exploration of the Wild Atlantic Way, or a longer holiday when you can truly chill out and leave your stresses behind, Salthill is the place to be. Come for the action — enjoy a swim at the safest beaches you’ll find, play a round of golf at the Galway Golf Club or a game of tennis at the Galway Lawn Tennis Club, take a boat tour around Galway Bay, dare to dive with the locals off the iconic Blackrock Diving Tower, or enjoy the thrilling rides at Curry’s Funpark. Or just take it easy in this pic-

turesque seaside village, where you’ll just love the views of Galway Bay and across to the Clare hills — it’s never the same view on any two days. Enjoy a relaxing walk along one of Ireland’s longest promenades, and tick a box by watching the sun go down on Galway Bay, just like Bing Crosby. Children will never tire of building sand castles on one of the resort’s many beaches, or splashing in the waves at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. And if the weather isn’t to your liking, there’s plenty to choose from indoors — so you can still have your daily swim at the Leisureland pool, where the toddlers have their own area and older children and adults can enjoy the 65-metre water slide. Or you and the family can explore the magic of the oceans at Galway Atlantaquaria, Ireland’s largest native species aquarium with

70 exhibits over two floors; then try all the amusements at the Seapoint Leisure indoor family entertainment centre or Caesar’s Palace amusement arcade and bingo hall. Or catch up on the latest blockbuster movie releases at the new Omniplex cinema. And when it comes to food and drink, Salthill just won’t be beaten in terms of the range on offer, with lots of familyfriendly restaurants, cafes and bars, many with outdoor as well as indoor seating. And not to forget the great fast food options. You’ll also find a whole range of small friendly local shops meeting your every need, from souvenirs and beach balls to groceries and health foods. Salthill also boasts some of the finest hotels in the country, offering spectacular views over Galway Bay, and a host of smaller friendly accommoda-

tion providers, including selfcatering. This year, more than ever before, families are looking for home holiday options, or staycations, that will appeal to both adults and children of all ages, and Salthill promises to fit the bill … and more. It’s a village with a great community spirit, with more than 60 businesses coming together under the umbrella of The Village Salthill to constantly improve the visitor experience, making sure they offer a friendly welcome and good value. Check out their website, www.salthill.com for details of everything Salthill has to offer and contact information for each business. Whatever you decide to do when you get there, you can be sure of a truly warm welcome to Salthill and a bundle of memories never to be forgotten to bring back home.

To find out more about what Salthill has to offer, check out www.salthill.com or scan this QR code

HARD WORK, HOPE AND IMAGINATION OFFER RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

estaurants and bars that serve food face new challenges as they learn to operate in a Covid-19 world. Stringent new safety regulations must be adhered to while customer capacity has been reduced across the board. It’s not an easy time but as they adjust to these strange circumstances, three of those on the frontline tell JUDY MURPHY how they are adapting and of their hopes for the future.

▲▲ Philip Counihan at EJ Kings Bar and Restaurant.

LIGHTHOUSE CAFÉ

by judy murphy

It takes a brave person to expand their business at present, but that’s exactly what Kerry Leigh and her husband Mark have done. The Leighs, who own the Lighthouse Café, a small but successful vegan restaurant on Galway City’s Abbeygate Street, had already decided to expand before Covid-19 shut down Ireland. With their Abbeygate Street premises closed they had some hard calls to make, but they decided to forge ahead and open the new premises in Terryland. Although it’s early days, that space has been a godsend, according to Kerry. The initial plan, when they signed the lease for the Terryland restaurant last November, had been for two sit-down venues. “But Abbeygate Street is so small we’ve had to change everything,” says Kerry. Under current guidelines, only she and Mark would have been able to work in the kitchen of that café which can seat 24 indoors in normal times. That meant running it as a restaurant when they reopened – even with extra seats outdoors – wasn’t possible. Instead, they’ve played to the strengths of both venues. For now, all their savoury food is being made in the Terryland kitchen and ferried into the Abbeygate Street premises via e-bike and trailer. A take-away menu operating there is proving popular with regulars and visitors. And while dropping off the savoury dishes, they collect scones and desserts which are made in Abbeygate Street, and transport them to Terryland. That means a comprehensive menu is available in each place. Pre-Covid, the new Terryland space could have accommodated up to 35 diners; now it’s 16 or 17, says Kerry. The Leighs, who took over the lease of the existing Lighthouse Café in 2017, showed that

▲▲ Kerry Leigh at the new Lighthouse Café

vegetarian and vegan food could be seriously tasty as well as healthy. It soon became so popular, customers were queuing for a seat. “We wanted to expand, but we couldn’t go up and we couldn’t go sideways,” Kerry explains of the physical constraints they faced in the city centre space. And they needed more room. They began to discuss it seriously last Autumn and by November had the lease sorted. The Terryland Lighthouse was due to open in early June but Covid delayed everything. Their landlord was reasonable about the rent, and the couple decided to keep going. “We had already taken out a loan and spent half of it,” Kerry says of that decision. “We could have stopped and been in loads of debt or we could keep going and be in loads of debt but with a chance of surviving.” Like many others in the hospitality business, they’ve availed of the Government employment support scheme and are happy that, between the two premises, they can

retain their seven staff. Like other places, they have their safety systems in place, and are adapting to them. Its working well, says Kerry. The first day back was “crazy”, but they’re adapting and she’s delighted with the response that the new space is getting from office and shop employees around Terryland and Liosbán. Kerry and Mark have worked hard and creatively to make their business a success and she’s determined they’ll survive. “There’s no point being negative,” she says. “We can’t change what’s happened so we’ll go with it and hope for the best. Stressing about it will only make life harder.”

EJ KINGS Clifden has seen an influx of visitors since the latest easing of restrictions in June 29, which is good news for those in the hospitality business. Philip Counihan took over as general manager of EJ Kings Bar and Restaurant on the

Square in January of this year, having previously served as assistant manager at Renvyle House Hotel, where his father Ronnie was manager. Michael Canning, who had been sous chef at Renvyle under the much-lauded Tim O’Sullivan was appointed head chef and they were gearing up for a busy year. However, when the Covid-19 lockdown was announced by Leo Varadkar on March 12, EJ Kings, like restaurants and pubs countrywide, closed its doors. It reopened at the end of June, in line with VFI guidelines and, as of the weekend, “visitors have been up on last year”, says Philip. Owned by Terry Sweeney who also owns Busker Browne’s in Galway City, this popular spot employs 24 fulltime staff. It’s a big premises over three floors – at full sitting, the space can hold 300 people, Philip explains. That includes an outdoor area which can cater for 45. At present, the tables throughout the premises have been spaced out and some are left empty, to comply with social distancing health and safety guidelines around Covid-19. People are encouraged to book ahead, then wait to be seated and contact details are taken in case tracing is needed. All the menus have been laminated and are sanitised after every use and there are sanitising stations throughout the building. Diners enter through one door and leave through another, explains Philip. The aim is to keep the experience as normal as possible for people, while ensuring that staff and diners are safe. And people are happy with this approach, he observes. “The customers are very relaxed.” Most of their visitors so far have been Irish, lots of them local, according to Philip, with some French and English holidaymakers too. EJ Kings offers diners three menus throughout the day – there’s a lunch menu from noon to 5pm, then there’s a downstairs bar-food menu from 5-9pm, while upstairs

▲▲ Nuisin and Ali Jalilvand, owners of Hooked.

there’s fine-dining from 6-9pm. Staff have received full training in health and safety, with those working in the kitchens having been provided with visors and gloves, while serving staff have face-coverings. In normal times, holidaymakers could drop in to the pub for a pint and to listen to live music, but under the current regulations, there’s no live music and no pint unless they order food to the value of at least €9. So, it’s no surprise that while food sales are up under the current regulations, drink sales are down and EJ Kings currently closes at 10pm nightly. Philip is hopeful that pubs will be back to normal on July 20, in the next phase of reopening the country and that there won’t be a spike in cases.

HOOKED “There’s no off-switch when you are in business. You are totally in a relationship and that’s true of any business but especially hospitality,” says Nuisin Jalilvand. With her father, Ali, she owns Hooked fish restaurant, which opened on Galway City’s Henry Street in 2014. Last year, they expanded to Barna. The idea for Hooked came about after Nuisin returned from Australia over six years ago. Her dad Ali, who has been a fish wholesaler for more than three decades, owned the building and suggested she open a business there. He ran his retail fish business next door to that space, formerly home to the Gourmet Tart before it expanded.

Nuisin had worked in hospitality in Australia and given that experience and Ali’s business background, they fixed upon a 20-seater fish restaurant, serving good food in a relaxed environment. They kept it simple, offering fish and chips, prawns and a few specials depending on the season. “During that first summer, dad said ‘we need a bigger place’ because there were queues out the door,” she recalls So they broke through to his fish shop. Ali had bought the buildings years before when property was cheap, she explains. And when he opened a fish shop in Barna, at the rear of SuperValu, he bought there too. The combination of fish shop and restaurant is popular in Australia and the US and allows customers to check what they might fancy for dinner before it’s cooked for them, she explains. Their recipe proved a success and business has been flying. Nuisin, who has a 10-month-old daughter, had just returned from maternity leave when the shutdown happened. “Mentally, it would have taken an effort to get back into the momentum of things even without Covid-19”, she says with a laugh. But, Nuisin is a grafter, as is her father. Just three weeks into lockdown, they decided to open Hooked on Henry Street as a takeout. Customers who needed a ‘pick-me up’ during the early days of lockdown were delighted. The service got a great response and Barna followed soon after. Working in the fish shop there, her dad realised people were longing for good meals to bring home, says Nuisin. He was right. “Barna was nearly doing as well as when we had the sit-down,” she adds of the lockdown service. Nuisin had been pregnant when Barna opened and had planned to focus her energy on that restaurant after returning from maternity leave, but Covid-19 has put paid to any development plans for now. However, Barna has reopened for sitdown meals at weekends – with advance booking required – while the take-away service continues. They had 15-16 bookings on Friday night, along with take-outs and while it was tough, they survived and learned from it. It’s a learning experience for staff and diners, she says. Meanwhile, Henry Street is still operating as a take-away. They had 16 staff before Covid-19 but have had to reduce the workforce so Nuisin is back on the frontline, where she started in 2014. “We won’t be where we’d have expected to be this year,” she says. “We’re back to having a 20-seater restaurant in Henry Street. It’s a humbling experience but we will survive and that’s a blessing.”

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24/07/2020

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