Okinawa Living Magazine February 2021

February 2021 | Issue 276

contents February 2021

8

16 56 out + about 8 Whale Watching The Behemoths of the Blue are Back Every year, pods of humpback whales make the 6,000-mile journey from Arctic waters to Okinawa.

How about paying them a visit while they’re here?

features MCCS PHOTOS, HILLARY TAYLOR

16 On the cover Win this beautiful prize for your Valentine during our “Love at First Bite” contest!

Food of the Gods Japan’s Chocolate Curiosities Japan produces over 200,000 tons of chocolate annually—which is 400 million pounds of the good stuff—so be sure to nab your fill of Japan’s chocolate curiosities this Valentine’s Day!

56 Exploring Tsuboya & Sakurazaka Explore the backstreets of Naha, a city liberally flavored with a unique Ryukyu style unseen anywhere else in Japan.

restaurant review 46 Chasing Down Good Food E&C Turkish Kebab Whether you are already a fan or have yet to get your first taste, E&C Turkish Kebab is a must while you’re here on island.

PARCO

contents February 2021

dining + entertainment 43 Valentine’s at the Clubs The comfort of those we love and a delicious meal are two of life’s greatest sources of happiness. Who can pass up the chance to combine them? This year, make your Valentine’s weekend one to savor at MCCS Clubs and Restaurants.

kids + parents 49 Swim Like an Animal Prove that you can swim with one of the fastest animals in the water—the dolphin, of course—at the Okinawa Dolphins Swim Team (ODST) Swim Meet.

49 Triple Threats in the Art World The stars have aligned at Camp Courtney Arts and Crafts and Camp Foster Framing and Fine Arts, where you’ll find pastel, sketching and oil painting classes for kids twice a week.

services 53

43

In Your Heart and on Your Coffee Table Immortalize your precious memories of Okinawa or share the beauty of the islands with a loved one back home with The Best of Okinawa Living and Omoide: Memories of Okinawa.

extras

fitness + fun

marines + families

5

29

36

7

Cupid Yoga Strengthen your relationship while getting fit together at this FREE event on the beach.

31 Live Out Your Super Daydreams If you feel like you could return a kickoff for a touchdown in your sleep, live out your football dreams at the Camp Foster Open Flag Football Tournament!

33 Prove Your Strength Show that the members of your branch of service are the toughest and fittest of them all at the Battle of the Branches fitness competition.

MCCS Employee Excellence Awards Every year, MCCS recognizes and rewards their own for continuously displaying traits that define the focus of the organization—which include a positive attitude, an exceptional work ethic, high initiative, professionalism and courtesy, extensive knowledge in their field, an awareness of team orientation and an “above-and-beyond” outlook.

39 Heart Health Month February is Heart Health Month and MCCS Health Promotion is here to increase awareness of heart disease and highlight strategies you can take to prevent it.

Mensôre

Feedback & Show Us!

69 Living on Okinawa

70 Marketplace Guide

Mike Daley Editor-In-Chief

OKUMA B E A C H Dinner for Two

Romantic Dinner Saturday • 13 February 60 • Couple | $35 • Per person

$

Experience an enchanted evening at Okuma Beach and enjoy a meal beautifully prepared by our talented chefs. This four-course meal will include items like crab bisque, filet mignon or salmon, and crème brûlée for dessert. Reservations are encouraged for this romantic Valentine’s dinner.

Call Surfside Grill & Bar at 098-962-1805.

St. Patrick’s Special Saturday, 13 March • 5 - 8:30 pm Enjoy a traditional Shepherd’s Pie Dinner.

Sweet Cabana Deal Now - 31 March Your stay gets even sweeter when you save 20% off of a two-night stay that includes breakfast for two people in any Suite, Suite Plus, Studio, or Studio Premier. Sundays through Thursdays only, holidays not included. Other restrictions may apply.

Group Reservations Discounts Now - 31 March Okuma Group Reservations offers lodging discounts to groups of five or more rooms. This is a great time to schedule annual meetings, family reunions, weddings, retreats, functions, and more! You name it, we can host it! Please contact the Group Reservations office for details. Monday - Friday, 8 am - 5 pm 631-1806 | 080-6489-8619 Okuma Beach • 631-1990 | Surfside Grill & Bar • 631-1805 | Reservations • 631-1991 Located 51 miles north of178978605 Kadena Air Base (miniature golf photo)

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KADENA AIR BASE

OUT + ABOUT

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 9

OUT + ABOUT

very year, pods of humpback whales make the 6,000-mile round-trip journey from Arctic waters to Okinawa (and back again!), the exact reason for which is not fully understood. We know whales typically feed in frigid waters and give birth in tropical waters, where they then nurse for several months until it’s time to migrate back to the frigid waters’ abundant krill population, but why abandon the buffet of Arctic krill in the first place? Why travel so far to give birth?

Scientists have not reached a consensus.

For decades, most scientists have subscribed to one of two hypotheses: that newborns would either freeze to death in Arctic waters or be eaten by the north’s friendly neighborhood sharks and orcas. In 2019, however, Marine Ecologist Dr. Robert L. Pitman from Oregon State University’s Marine Mammal Institute and his team introduced a new hypothesis that has been gaining traction— and it involves skincare. Look at your skin.

All the skin you can see—the outermost portion—is composed of dead cells. And these cells are falling off all of the time. Gross, right? Well, whales also shed their skin continuously—except in the Arctic. This is likely due to whales diverting their blood away from the skin and towards essential organs to keep warm in cold water, thereby reducing skin regeneration. When whales don’t molt, however, a thick yellow film of microorganisms accumulates on their skin. If left unchecked, the door is open for harmful bacteria to gather, multiply and party, adversely affecting individual whales and eventually pods and whole communities.

Migrating to warmer waters (like around the Kerama Islands) reactivates skin regeneration and allows whales to shed the unwanted bacterial revelers back into the deep blue sea.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 11

OUT + ABOUT

Whether the reason for migration is mutually exclusive or a combination of the three hypotheses, one thing is for certain: the humpbacks have returned to Okinawa.

Known as zato-kujira in Japanese (kujira means whale and zato was a guild of musicians who played the biwa—a lute whose shape resembles a humpback’s), these whales are a semitrailer-sized species of baleen whale: instead of teeth, they have baleen—dense, comb-like rows of keratin (a protein found in human hair and nails) that span the upper jaw. When feeding, a humpback whale filters water in through its baleen, trapping krill and small schooling fish. The whale then uses its tongue to lick the food from its baleen; excess water is pushed back out while the food sticks around, drops down the whale’s throat and is eaten. In one mouthful, a humpback can hold 5,000 gallons of water and trap hundreds of thousands of calories worth of prey. Despite these incredible amounts, however, the opening in the back of a humpback’s throat is only the size of a grapefruit, so if Pinocchio’s confinement gave you a whale-belly phobia as a child, don’t worry, you wouldn’t fit.

But what separates humpbacks from other whales? They have the longest pectoral fins of all the cetaceans, which humpbacks can use to scoop fish into their mouths while foraging. Also, some pods practice bubble-net feeding, in which individuals work together in using their blowholes to create a rising circle of bubbles, like a column, to trap fish. The prey won’t swim through the bubbles, so they scram to the surface with the whales in hot pursuit until there’s nowhere else to go but into the whales’ mouths.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 13

OUT + ABOUT

Speaking of blowholes, humpbacks have double blowholes, a structure homologous to the nostrils in other mammals that is theorized to have evolved via excruciatingly gradual movement—over millions of years—from the front of the whale’s ancestor’s face to the top of the humpback’s head as an adaptation to aquatic life.

Yet perhaps the most captivating trait of the humpback is its song. During mating season, males will vocalize for roughly ten minutes, and then repeat that pattern, or song, for hours on end and in frequencies that can travel hundreds of miles. Interestingly, whales within the same area sing the same song; conversely, geographically separate humpbacks sing different songs. This means Indian Ocean humpbacks and Pacific Ocean humpbacks sing two different songs.

But enough extolling—how can you see these magnificent creatures up close? Do a simple Google search for local companies that offer whale-watching tours to the beautiful Kerama Islands (where humpbacks are no strangers to the surface), and you’ll receive plenty of options from which to choose. Just make sure, before you go, that whale watching tours are not restricted according to your command’s COVID-19 guidelines.

Lastly, for a little more history and information on humpbacks in the Keramas, head to the Zamami Village Whale Association’s website at vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/whale/ english/englishtoppage2.html.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 15

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 17

Kinoko no Yama (1975) and Takenoko no Sato (1979) are some of Meiji’s long-running treats. Both get their names from their shapes. Kinoko means mushrooms, and rumor has it yama (mountain) is included because eating a mountain of these sweets would be beyond easy.

Takenoko no Sato are shaped like bamboo shoots and their direct translation is bamboo shoot (takenoko) village (sato). Living in Japan or on Okinawa calls for picking a favorite. These two candies have been battling for the hearts of many for over forty years now—to the point where millions of people voted online to choose their preferred sweet.

Tirol candies debuted in 1979 and their price was as bewitching as they are, costing only ¥10 apiece. Still very affordable today, these candies live up to their company’s motto, “One for all and all for a smile.” While you can still buy them individually, go ahead and grab the variety pack and see which one is your favorite. Except for the White & Cookies, with its blended flavors, these tip-of-yourthumb-sized delights are smooth and creamy chocolate on the outside with tasty fillings on the inside.

Also hailing from ‘79 is Lotte’s Pie no Mi, or chocolate pie, a flaky 64-layer puff pastry. While it’s possible to find other cream-filled kinds, the original treats are milk chocolate. Plus there is a deep chocolate version, which is dark chocolate. The sugar that tops these little biscuits is sometimes altered to make their appearance match the season. And, most amusing of all, according to their official website, these fun bites are baked by mischievous squirrels who encourage you to add your Pie no Mi to most everything from pasta carbonara to beef stew, wrapped up with prosciutto and avocado or steeped in a nice glass of sangria.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 21

Toasty buns, juicy meat, melty cheese…what’s not to love about a burger? But don’t be fooled, burger fans. With sesame flavored cookies for “buns,” milk chocolate for a “burger patty” and white chocolate for “cheese,” Every Burger candies have been sweet through and through since 1985. While it is pretty easy to spot the differences between your favorite hamburger and Every Burger candy, this cheerful hamburger invites you to play along and find differences in the sporty cartoons found inside each box and online. See if you can spy subtle changes in the drawings as he plays golf, hockey, soccer and goes fishing.

Introduced by Lotte in 1984, charming and chocolate fudge-filled Koala no March (a.k.a. “Koala Yummies” stateside during the 90’s) might be the cutest cookies to ever exist. Besides raising the bar for cuteness, Lotte supports a good cause. For over 25 years, the company has paired up with the Australian Koala Foundation, which helps protect koalas and fund research for the vulnerable species. Don’t worry though, the cookies aren’t endangered. With 365 unique images printed on these bitesized snacks, you could create your own koala-a-day calendar.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 23

At first glance, 1994’s Toppo seem to be inside-out Pocky, but they arrived on the candy scene almost three full decades later than Pocky and are produced by a different company (Lotte). However, Toppo has its own mascot, a cartoon version of the chocolate-filled pretzel stick named Noppo Toppo-chan, who claims to always be funny and able to bring a smile to everyone. From its shape, which looks like a stick from the side and a zero from the top or bottom, this sweet has deemed October 10 as its own holiday called “Toppo Day.”

The early sales of 1994’s Black Thunder were a little slow, but these crispy, puffed-rice chocolate bars took Japan by storm after the Yuraku Seika Company became a 2008 Olympics sponsor. These candies even became a popular McFlurry flavor at McDonald’s in Japan for a limited time.

And speaking of limited, in May 2019, a special Okinawa-only version of Black Thunder made with 100% Okinawan brown sugar and salt was released. To find one, check touristy areas rather than supermarkets. While pondering the name is certainly entertaining (Why is it called thunder? Because it makes a loud crunch when you eat it? Is it bringing a storm of flavor?), these bars are really named after the Japanese god of thunder, Raijin, whose name can be seen in kanji on the wrapper.

Vying for the most kawaii (cute) cookie and chocolate combination are Saku Saku Pandas from 1996. These pandas have 70 different facial expressions to enchant you with and two layers of chocolate covering their biscuit bases. The double chocolate variety has milk and dark chocolate and white chocolate Pandas are available, too. And, as noted on packages and their website, Kabaya is another company linking their animal-inspired cookies to the support of wildlife conservation with ties to the Giant Panda Conservation Fund.

These chocolate curiosities are of course only a starting point when it comes to Japan’s smorgasbord of sweet indulgences. There’s a whole world of chocolate for you to explore while here on island. Besides most of these having a variety of flavors and limited-edition releases, some of them have regional flavors as well. The perfect excuse (not that you really need one) to visit other areas of Japan—a chocolate hunt! Japan produces over 200,000 tons of chocolate annually—which is 400 million pounds of the good stuff— so you’re sure to nab your fill. With Kit Kats, Meiji and Dars solid chocolates, fruit and chocolate or nut and chocolate combinations to try, your sweet tooth has plenty of reasons to be satisfied.

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FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 25

FITNESS + FUN

Just picture it: the relaxing sounds of waves, cool sand under your toes and a rejuvenating yoga flow as the sun slowly lights up the horizon.

Think You’re Fast?

The Kinser Time Trial Bike Race Calling all road-racing cyclists—it’s time to feel the wind on your face and taste the sweet nectar of victory!

While time trial (TT) racing is all about competing against others and being the fastest on the course, it’s even more about defeating the clock and mastering yourself. There is no peloton (a pack of riders that uses teamwork to reduce drag and conserve overall energy) or pacers (someone that rides in front and creates a slipstream that a trailing cyclist can ride within, allowing the latter to attain speeds that are unachievable alone); it’s only you, your bike, the road and a ticking timer.

If you think you have what it takes to win the crown, compete in the Kinser Time Trial Bike Race on February 28 beginning at 8:05 a.m. for only $40 per rider. Registration is open until February 24 at 11:30 p.m. via Eventbrite. During race day, check-in will take place at the Kinser Fitness Center from 6:30–7:30 a.m. with a mandatory brief at 7:35 a.m.

Awards will be given to 1st-, 2nd- and 3rd-place finishers for both male and female categories with trophies for the fastest overall male and female riders. Please be advised that event details are subject to change without notice. For more information about the Kinser Time Trial Bike Race, call 637-1869, email adultsports@okinawa. usmc-mccs.org or visit mccsokinawa. com/adultsports.

Cupid Yoga Strengthen Your Relationship Can you recall the last time you and your partner had an hour of quiet time to yourselves?

Quality time together is important in any relationship for fostering healthy communication, trust and respect. Despite this, though, many military couples struggle to carve out space for quality bonding time between the fast-paced tempo of training, deployments and the unfamiliarity of life overseas.

Working out together can be one way to incorporate bonding time into a hectic schedule.

Through exercise, couples can learn how to support and trust one another while working together towards a common goal of self-betterment. Yoga can be an especially useful exercise tool, as the foundations of yoga are rooted in patience and reflection. Practicing yoga, as a couple or on your own, can improve your ability to work through the stresses of work and home life.

Semper Fit Health Promotion offers a variety of FREE group fitness classes on-island that are open to service members and their spouses, such as yoga. In addition, Health Promotion will be offering Cupid Yoga, an hour-long yoga session specifically for couples, on Sunday, February 14. Cupid Yoga will take place at the Camp Courtney Beach at sunrise. Just picture it: the relaxing sounds of waves, cool sand under your toes and a rejuvenating yoga flow as the sun slowly lights up the horizon!

Cupid Yoga is FREE and open to all SOFA ID card holders 18 and older. Register by February 10 via Eventbrite to participate. For questions, call Semper Fit Health Promotion at 645-3910 or email mccshealthpromotions@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org. For more information, visit Health Promotion online at mccsokinawa.com/healthpromotion or facebook.com/ mccsokinawa.semperfit.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 29

FITNESS + FUN

Live Out Your Super Daydreams Camp Foster Open Flag Football Tournament You know how after watching a martial arts movie you feel like you can pull off a spinning hook kick? Or after watching Olympic diving, you may think, “Hey, I could pull off a reverse one-and-ahalf somersault with three-and-a-half twists in the free position.”

Well, the Super Bowl can have a similar effect! So after watching the big game on February 8 (perhaps in an MCCS Club or Restaurant with a delicious breakfast buffet—see p. 45 for more on that), if you feel like you could return a kickoff against the world, live out your football dreams in the Camp Foster Open Flag Football Tournament on Saturday and Sunday, February 13 and 14, at Camp Foster’s Gunners Fitness Center Field.

Some things to keep in mind as you are putting your team together: teams may have up to 20 players plus a coach. If a coach decides to play, that will count against the team’s 20-player limit.

Moreover, games will consist of two 20-minute halves and 1st-, 2ndand 3rd-place teams will receive awards and T-shirts.

Regarding registration, SOFA ID card holders ages 16 and older may sign up through Eventbrite for $150 per team by 1 p.m. on February 8. For more information, head to mccsokinawa.com/adultsports or facebook.com/mccsokinawa.semperfit. If you have any questions, please email adultsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org or call 645-4866.

A Tale of Strikes and Spares

MCCS PHOTO

North and South Commander’s Cup Bowling Tournaments Once a year, the most battle-hardened bowlers gather at the Commander’s Cup tournaments to decide who the Baron of Bowling really is. The contestants’ approach makes pins tremble on their marks and gutters weep from the thought of being so underused, and despite the tournaments falling on the week of Valentine’s Day this year, there will be no love lost at the lanes—only sweat, strikes and the tears of the vanquished.

Okay, maybe it won’t be that intense, but the competition will be stiff! The Southern Commander’s Cup rolls out February 10 at the Camp Foster Bowling Center, and is open to eligible units from Camps Kinser, Foster and MCAS Futenma.

As for the Northern Commander’s Cup, eligible units from Camps Courtney, Hansen and Schwab will compete on February 11 at the Camp Hansen Bowling Center.

Team registration for both tournaments is FREE but must be completed through Eventbrite before 1 p.m. on February 5.

Team sizes will be limited to six players, four of which will be open division (any

age) and two of which will be senior division (ages 32 and older). The tournaments are team events, but these divisions—in addition to a women’s division (there are no team gender requirements)—offer opportunities for individual recognition.

Both tournaments begin with a threegame roll off and proceed to separate ladder tournaments for each of the divisions and teams to determine the final standings.

Moreover, all scores will be scratch: there will be no handicap.

First- and second-place teams will receive awards, and the top four teams in each Commander’s Cup will then earn the right to advance to play amongst the best of the best in the combined Commanding General’s Cup—the glorious peak of the island’s military-affiliated bowling competition mountain. Will your unit’s team join the pantheon, or be left in the gutter?

For more information, head to mccsokinawa.com/adultsports or facebook.com/ mccsokinawa.semperfit. If you have any questions, send them to adultsports@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 31

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FITNESS + FUN

Prove Your Strength

MCCS PHOTO

Battle of the Branches Fitness Competition Before you even signed on the dotted line, I’m betting you were made aware of your branch’s fitness expectations.

So, while certainly impressive, it’s no surprise you can run two miles for time, complete push-ups, sit-ups, pullups, carry two 40-pound kettlebells, drag a 90-pound sled and lift an ammo box.

But, can you do it all better than service members from other branches?

Passing the CFT (Marine Corps Combat Fitness Test), ACFT (Army Combat Fitness Test), PRT (Navy Physical Readiness Test) and PFT (Air Force Physical Fitness Test) are standard requirements, but if achieving a higher physical fitness test score than anyone else around is the stuff your dreams are made of, then we’ve got the event for you.

It’s time to send the rest of the softies a wake-up call and show that you and your branch are the toughest of the tough at the Battle of the Branches fitness competition. All active-duty service members are invited to compete at the Courtney Bowl on Camp Courtney, February 20 beginning at 9 a.m. Events inspired by each branch’s fitness components are combined in this ultimate fitness test. And come ready to win, as 1st-, 2nd- and 3rd-place competitors will receive awards. Attire is your standard, de-bloused daily duty uniform, or “boots and utes.” Register for this FREE event through Eventbrite before February 13 to participate. For more information, please visit mccsokinawa.com/ healthpromotion.

Learning Curves Don’t Have to be Scary Taiyo Golf Club’s Complimentary Skills Development Golf has a whopper of a learning curve. New players quickly discover that swinging a club is much harder than it looks, and the initial realization of the learning curve’s steepness can put players off—especially when they get to thinking about the cost of lessons, greens fees and so on.

Well, Taiyo Golf Club doesn’t think that learning curve has to be so scary, and with various FREE player development opportunities available every week, it doesn’t have to be so expensive, either.

On the first Saturday of every month, juniors can hit FREE range balls and receive tips from the course pro from 1 to 2 p.m. Every second Saturday of the month, Marines and Sailors receive the same treatment from noon to 3 p.m. (with pro tips during the first hour) while

their spouses can enjoy this offering every third Saturday (1–2 p.m.). Every fourth Saturday, the golf simulator is FREE for one half-hour session.

If you’d like to learn the game with your family, Taiyo also offers Family Fun Night every Wednesday from 5–7 p.m., which features FREE range balls on the first and second Wednesdays of the month, access to the practice green on the third and access to the yellow tees on the fourth.

Lastly, Ladies Golf is every Thursday, 5:30–6:30 p.m., and includes range balls and pro tips for women at no cost.

For more information, head to mccsokinawa. com/golf or facebook.com/taiyogc. For questions, call 622-2004/2006 from a DSN or 098-9542004/2006 from off base.

Taiyo’s From the Tips Tournament Get a Slice of the Competition You might have heard the saying, “If you can’t run with the big dogs, stay on the porch,” or a similar variant, but for golfers looking to get a slice of the competition, Taiyo’s From the Tips Tournament is your chance to compete with the heftiest hounds. And in this instance, if you can’t make the long shots, you better start practicing because we’re separating the best from the rest.

Taiyo’s course tips out at over 6,600 yards, so come February 20, you’ve got a lot of ground to cover…if you dare.

While the format for this tournament is individual stroke play, there are a few other details players should know as well. Men will play from the “tips”—the ominous black tees farthest from the green—and women

will play from the blue tees. While handicaps will be adjusted accordingly, winners from two divisions—gross (with no handicap calculations) and net (with handicaps)—will earn bragging rights and prizes. Players will be scored in both divisions, but can only place in one. For example, if you place higher with your net score than with your gross score, your net score is the one that will count towards final standings and awards.

To register, stop by the Taiyo Pro Shop before February 17. Entry fees are $30 and do not include greens or cart fees. For more information, please visit mccsokinawa.com/golf or call 622-2004 or 098-954-2004 from off base.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 33

BURRITO BOX

KINSEI BARBEL

MCCS Employee Excellence Awards Delivering a Quality Customer Experience MCCS Okinawa is fortunate to have so many employees doing amazing things to support our Marines and their families on Okinawa. This year, over 200 employees were nominated for an Employee Excellence Award by their peers, with winners in five categories recognized and rewarded for their continuous display of traits that define employee excellence.

The 2020 Employee Excellence Awards recognize employees in the following five categories: The Customer Service Award recognizes an employee who has gone above and beyond in their delivery of World Class Customer Service.

The Teamwork Award recognizes an employee who works as part of a team in an exceptional manner and performs in a way that results in improved coordination and cooperation among the department.

The Productivity and Work Processes Award recognizes an employee whose innovative thinking has resulted in a product, activity, program or service that defines a new standard of excellence for effectiveness, efficiency, quality or productivity.

The Outstanding Citizenship Award recognizes an employee who has made a positive impact in the workplace by exhibiting exemplary behavior, commitment, attitude and character.

The Leadership Award recognizes an employee who provides consistent leadership that is impactful, effective and motivational.

MARINES + FAMILIES

THE WINNERS CUSTOMER SERVICE AWARD Camille Prince Manager Camp Foster Bonsai Coffee Company

TEAMWORK AWARD Futoshi Inamine Custodial Worker Camp Hansen House of Pain Fitness Center

PRODUCTIVITY AND WORK PROCESSES AWARD Edward Cloonan III Executive Chef Camp Foster Ocean Breeze

Ms. Prince has completely changed the customer experience at Bonsai Coffee through her positive customer engagements. No matter how a customer’s day has been, he or she is guaranteed to walk out of Bonsai with a smile thanks to Camille’s courtesy, respect, warmth and compassion. When you meet her, there is no doubt that she cares about her job and her customers; even if it’s only through a 2-minute interaction, she inspires everyone she meets.

Mr. Inamine is a quintessential team player. He always thinks ahead for the good of the team and works hard to improve the conditions for all of those around him. He often goes the extra mile to help others. For example, when new employees join the team, he is the first to welcome them and make them feel like they belong. He offers training and great advice that results in new employees becoming great team members.

Chef Cloonan successfully led his team through a myriad of challenges caused by COVID-19. He has produced over 13,000 breakfast deliveries for ROM (Restriction of Movement) guests, created a new à la carte menu and rolled out a new buffet at Ocean Breeze. He has consistently demonstrated resilience, dedication and an unyielding work ethic during his time at Ocean Breeze.

OUTSTANDING CITIZENSHIP AWARD Ms. Fiel has handled many difficult situations associated with managing a fast-paced facility Rubelyn Fiel with delicacy, understanding, professionManager alism and compassion. Her performance is Camp Foster Sumo Burrito outstanding at every turn, and her dedication to service is exceptional. Ms. Fiel is the leading force behind the successful operation of Sumo Burrito on Camp Foster.

LEADERSHIP AWARD Nicole Austin Senior Accounting Manager Installation Finance Office

Ms. Austin is an outstanding leader who always makes the team her top priority. She imparts knowledge to support team members’ personal and professional growth which strengthens the team as a whole. Ms. Austin has shown that leadership is about knowing, understanding and utilizing the strengths of individual team members to maximize the cohesiveness and effectiveness of the team.

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MARINES + FAMILIES

Heart Health Month Keep Those Boulders Off Your Highway It’s time to show the old ticker a little love. Your heart is an extraordinary muscle; in one day, it will pump roughly 2,000 gallons of blood and beat, on average, 115,000 times. That’s a tough job, so it’s important we don’t make the hardest working muscle’s task harder than it already is—we need to take care of our hearts! And as February is Heart Health Month, MCCS Health Promotion is here to bring awareness to heart disease and highlight strategies you can take to prevent it.

Most of us are familiar with these strategies: eat healthy, exercise and so on. But how exactly are these better for us? Let’s take a look, starting with eating healthy.

Our circulatory system is like a highway. Traffic runs smoothly when the roads are well taken care of. Likewise, blood pumps efficiently when our veins and arteries are in good shape. If you eat nothing but foods that are high in fat and cholesterol, however, fat can build up on the walls of your arteries. This is essentially like dropping boulders onto your highway. If there’s not a complete blockage, traffic can still flow, but it takes a whole lot more effort to coordinate traffic around those boulders. In your body, your heart has to pump much harder to squeeze blood past those partially clogged arteries. Too much extra stress on your heart like this, and your heart won’t last as

long, so it’s crucial to prevent these obstacles from ever forming.

Next, as with most muscles, you can strengthen your heart by exercising it. Aerobic workouts like running or swimming do just this, helping your heart to become more effective at pumping blood throughout the body. Exercise also lowers stress; stress hormones can increase blood cholesterol, blood sugar and blood pressure— common risk factors for heart disease—so a reduction in these stress hormones is a great boon to heart health.

Health Promotion will be disseminating important info on maintaining heart health throughout the month of February, so be on the lookout. Additionally, you too can take action in support of your heart by signing up for heart-healthy events like Camp Foster’s FREE Healthy Heart Spinathon on Saturday, February 27 at Gunners Fitness Center. SOFA ID card holders 18 years and older are invited to partake in one of the Spinathon’s three back-toback 50-minute spin sessions to really get the blood pumping. To register for the 9 a.m., the 10 a.m. or the 11 a.m. time slot, head to Eventbrite and sign up before February 20. For questions about this event, please call 645-3910 or email groupfitness@okinawa.usmc-mccs. org. For general information and updates regarding Heart Health Month, stay tuned to facebook.com/mccsokinawa.semperfit.

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MARINES + FAMILIES

Research’s Reach

The Great American Spit Out A Healthier You in 24 Hours On the third Thursday in February, the annual DoD Great American Spit Out awareness event is held to encourage smokeless tobacco users to quit for at least one day. If you have ever thought about quitting, this event can be a great start and reason enough to put down your dip. Regardless of why you started to use tobacco products and whatever your reason for wanting to quit may be, take advantage of resources that can help.

Through MCCS Health Promotion, you can pick up FREE brochures, receive information and resources to help you quit, view items such as a tar jar and “Mr. Gross Mouth” or even sign a pledge to quit smokeless tobacco for 24 hours.

According to information from the CDC

website, nicotine dependence often leads to repeated cessation attempts and treatments. This means that relapse is common and not something to be ashamed of, but also that your next attempt may be the one to finally kick that habit for good. If you plan to join the Great American Spit Out, set yourself up for success. Know what you will do instead of reaching for your tobacco when a craving hits, tell a friend of your attempt—one you know you can count on for support—and also consider a tobacco-free reward you can enjoy upon a successful day of being “through with chew.”

For more information and support, visit mccsokinawa.com/healthpromotion or call 645-3910 with any questions. 

“Form” Your Financial Aid Support Network FAFSA Fridays by MCCS Education Centers Getting ready for a new academic year can be exciting, but also overwhelming. There is a lot to do as the school year gets rolling—choosing courses, getting books, organizing your new planner, scheduling study hours and so much more. If you are a first-year student just starting your college journey, it’s often easy to miss some of the details or be completely blindsided by all of the paperwork. And there’s one big-bad-monster-of-a-form lurking around the corner—the Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA).

With its own dedicated government website (studentaid.gov/h/apply-for-aid/fafsa) and smartphone application, the FAFSA can be confusing, intimidating and frustrating to say the least. You need tax information from two years ago, possibly information from

your parents or your spouse and records of any untaxed income. But stress not, students.

MCCS Education Centers island-wide are hosting FAFSA Fridays on February 5, 19 and 26 from 1 to 4 p.m. Staff members, who bring a fresh meaning to FAFSA (Friendly Advocates For Student Achievement), are available for one-on-one assistance and can even help you with completing your form.

The 2021-2022 school year is fast approaching. And remember, each state and college may have a separate FAFSA deadline (often earlier than the federal deadline by a year or more), so it’s never too soon to plan ahead for funding your education. For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/education or feel free to call 645-7160 with any questions. 

Broaden Your Understanding Don’t forget that MCCS Libraries’ resources extend far beyond the materials housed in physical buildings.

For example, Gale Search is a fully online tool with over 40 subject tiles organized into 14 categories to help you get your learn on. Plus, this FREE resource is available to MCCS Library patrons 24-hours a day, all year round.

As a great jumping off point for your learning, the “Biography” tile, with over 600,000 entries that include video, audio, images and articles from news sources, academic journals and magazines, can help as you celebrate Black History Month.

Acknowledging the accomplishments of Black Americans and other people of African descent during the second week of February first began in 1926.

Over time, this week grew to a themed month and for the past 45 years, American presidents have officially declared February as Black History Month. Broaden your understanding of this year’s Black History Month theme, “The Black Family: Representation, Identity, and Diversity,” as you work on school-affiliated projects and personal-interest research of notable Black Americans.

To get started with all of your research needs, contact your local library branch to receive a username and password. Then, head to mccs.ent. sirsi.net and select “Butler” from the list of libraries on the left-hand side of the webpage. Once the Butler page loads, choose “Gale Search” from the “Quick Links” menu and enter your username and password. If you have any questions about Gale Search or other available online resources, please contact your library branch directly by phone or email libraryprogram@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.  FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 41

DINING + ENTERTAINMENT

Valentine’s at the Clubs Reservations Required, Romance Guaranteed

Sometimes people just need a little help telling their loved ones how they really feel. If you happen to be a member of the club that needs a bit of inspiration this year, feel free to draw from the following love letter: As I think over the best memories of my life, you are always there, my true constant. Finding the right words to express my daily gratitude for you is daunting, but I promise my life wouldn’t be the same without you. You’re always beautiful to me and I’ll be loving you forever.

—Yours truly Just don’t tell your dearest it’s your love of food that inspired that love letter.

In all seriousness, the comfort of those we love and a delicious meal are two of life’s greatest sources of happiness. Who can pass up the chance to combine them? This year, make your Valentine’s weekend one to savor

at MCCS Clubs and Restaurants.

For an elegant start to Valentine's Day weekend, Butler Officers’ Club (Plaza Housing) is hosting their “Be Mine Tonight” event on Friday, February 12. Beginning at 6 p.m., hors d’oeuvres and Champagne followed by a seven-course dinner, live entertainment and dancing will set the tone for your weekend. Tickets are available for this adults-only event for $50 per person at Butler Officers’ Club. Flowers and wine can be purchased for an additional charge.

Is your Valentine’s more of a family affair?

Bring the whole bunch to Tengan Castle on Friday, February 12 from 5 to 9 p.m. for a special buffet featuring Italian cuisine, soup, salad and a dessert bar. This offering is sure to steal your heart with prices at $16.95 for adults, $8.50 for children ages 5–11 and FREE for little ones under 5. Now that’s amore!

Reservations are required for this event, so

please call to save your space.

And, close out your weekend with fond memories on Sunday, February 14. From 6 to 9 p.m., Surfside’s (Camp Kinser) “Be My Valentine” adults-only event will wow you with hors d’oeuvres during their cocktail hour, followed by a four-course meal including soup, salad, rib eye steak, chicken cordon bleu and a stunning red velvet molten lava cake for dessert. Tickets are available from Surfside for $80 per couple.

Taiyo Steakhouse is also hosting a special set-menu dinner from 6 to 9 p.m. on Valentine’s Day. This deal comes with one complimentary beverage and flower per couple to complement your perfect night out. Reservations are required for all of our events; however, when it comes to showing your loved one how you feel, throw all reservations out the window! For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/clubs.  FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 43

DINING + ENTERTAINMENT

Delicious Food, No Matter the Origin Mongolian BBQ at MCCS Clubs and Restaurants Mongolian BBQ is neither Mongolian nor really BBQ, nor as ancient a dish as it sounds; a Chinese comedian developed this cuisine in 1951 in Taiwan and chose the name because he didn’t like the sound of Beijing BBQ as much. Regardless of its origins, however, one thing is for certain: this delicious stir-fry meal, available at select MCCS Clubs and Restaurants, can conquer just about any appetite.

And at only $0.65 an ounce, you can pile your bowl past the brim several times over—create a mountain of beef, chicken, shrimp, fresh vegetables and sweet or savory sauce, then hand it off to the chef and watch your stir-fry brown and bubble to perfection.

Mongolian BBQ specials travel to different installations throughout the week. Head to BeachHead on Camp Schwab on

Fridays and Saturdays, 5–9 p.m., and MCAS Futenma’s Habu Pit on Thursdays, 5–9 p.m., and Fridays, 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m., to satiate your stir-fry cravings. If you live or work closer to Hansen, check out The Palms on Wednesdays and Sundays, 4–8 p.m., or Mondays, 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Tengan Castle hosts a Mongolian BBQ lunch on Thursdays, 11 a.m.–2 p.m., and dinner on Wednesdays from 5 to 9 p.m.

Lastly, both Camp Foster’s Ocean Breeze and Camp Kinser’s Surfside host Mongolian BBQ lunches on Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. to satisfy your midday hunger pangs.

For more information about Mongolian BBQ at MCCS Clubs and Restaurants, visit mccsokinawa.com/clubs. 

Big Game, Big Breakfast Game Day Viewing at MCCS Clubs and Restaurants If this is your first “Big Game Monday” (has a weird ring to it, doesn’t it?), get ready to wake up a little earlier than you might be used to on the most exciting game day of the year: kick-off is bright and early at 7 a.m.

But fret not! This less-than-ideal timing does not mean you won’t have a place to watch the game. Drop by one of the many MCCS Clubs and Restaurants hosting Big Game, Big Breakfast. There won’t be pigs in blankets or buffalo chicken dip (those are pretty aggressive before sunrise), but there will be delicious breakfast buffets for only $12 at Camp Kinser’s Surfside, MCAS Futenma’s Habu Pit, Camp Courtney’s Hashmarks SNCO Club and Legends Officers’ Club, Camp Schwab’s Landing Zone in BeachHead, Butler Officers’ Club on Plaza Housing and Camp Foster’s Globe & Anchor inside Ocean Breeze. If buffets aren’t the route you’d like to run, fast casual dining options are also available at Thirsty’s on MCAS Futenma or Bayview on Camp Courtney.

In addition to the breakfast, these viewing parties will also offer prizes, snacks and FREE giveaways. There’ll be so much excitement, you’ll forget to yawn. As these events are subject to change due to COVID-19 restrictions, please check mccsokinawa.com/clubs closer to game day to keep privy to any updates.  FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 45

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Chasing Down Good Food E&C Turkish Kebab

Text by: Angie Andrews | Photography by: Hillary Taylor

Pricing & Payment ¥980 / $9 Cash and credit cards accepted Contact Information okinawakebab. wixsite.com/eandc facebook.com/ kebabinokinawa

Remember the excitement you felt as a child when you heard the music from the ice cream truck and immediately dropped everything to chase after it? If I had to guess, I would say that’s exactly how my love for chasing down good food all started. Although I might be looking for more than sweets or a push-pop nowadays, grabbing a quick bite from a food truck has never lost its charm, which is a godsend in this age of compulsory outdoor dining.

After a recent and satisfying food truck meal, I’m pleased to tell you about E&C Turkish Kebab, owned

by Engin and Chikako Özkan. Even though hearing the word “kebab” often brings sis kebab to mind, rather than expecting grilled meat and veggies served on a skewer, plan to enjoy a dÖner kebab meal. DÖner comes from the Turkish word dÖnmek which means to turn or rotate. DÖner kebab, then, refers to any meat that’s slow roasted on a vertical rotisserie spit. Besides the inverted cone-shaped tower of meat itself, Engin wielding his knife, or dÖner biÇaği, to shave off a portion for you right there at the truck is quite the sight to see and a skill he’s perfected over the years.

Back in 2009, Engin and Chikako started their kebab business in Yamagata Prefecture up in mainland Japan and spent their time serving up delicious meals at festivals and outside of the local J. League Division 1 professional soccer stadium. As their notoriety grew, so did their dream—to bring their authentic Turkish kebabs to people from all over the world. This led them to relocate to Okinawa in 2014, where Chikako says

they have been “blessed with wonderful customers,” who are the Özkans’ favorite part of their livelihood.

They attribute their sense of accomplishment to happy customers. As accurately quipped on their website, “You can’t buy happiness but you can buy kebab. And that’s kind of the same thing.”

So whether you are already a fan or have yet to get your first taste, E&C Turkish Kebab is a must while you’re here on island. When you visit, there’s really only one question to answer: are you going for a kebab wrap or a kebab box? You’ll have your fill served either wrapped up with veggies in a fresh flour tortilla or over rice flavored with butter and sunflower oil. As for the chicken, which roasts for 6 to 7 hours, prep time is much longer—it’s actually a three-day process. Engin makes his own marinade with spices imported from Turkey, herbs and yogurt. While his marinade remains secret, Chikako assured me the reason the food is so delicious can be summed up in only one word—passion. So, wrap or box? Flip a coin, because both are fabulous and customizable with options for spicy or mild as well as additional toppings like herb yogurt and fried onions.

On most Fridays, Saturdays and at special events, you can catch the E&C truck on Camp Foster or Kadena Air Base. However, to find their monthly schedule, follow their Facebook page. And since grab-and-go foods are currently the most COVID-regulation friendly dining option, feel free to stop by soon. I’ve got a feeling you’ll leave remembering their slogan, “Good food, good feelings,” and we can all use a heaping serving of both.

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KIDS + PARENTS

Swim Like an Animal ODST Swim Meet Did you know that if someone calls you a sloth in the water, this actually means you’re agile? Sloths can swim a lot faster than they can move on land. Tigers, elephants, (wild) pigs and moose are also land animals that surprisingly also never feel like fish out of water in aquatic settings. But do you know what animal can swim circles around all of them? A dolphin! How do you compare to this speedy aquatic mammal? Put your own swimming skills to the test and see at the next swim meet hosted by the Okinawa Dolphins Swim Team (ODST).

While you won’t be competing against any wildlife, you can definitely land an award or enjoy some Blue Seal Ice Cream after the meet when you join the fun on February 27 at the Camp Foster

Aquatic Center. Races will be seeded based on entry times regardless of swimmers’ age and gender. Distances range from 25 to 400 meters, so whether you’re ready to sprint or go the distance, there’s an event for you.

Warm-ups begin at 7 a.m. and all competitors should be ready to race by 8:05 a.m. Interested SOFA swimmers of all ages can register for this FREE event by emailing their name, age, gender and preferred events (with estimated entry times if possible) to aquatics@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org by February 24. Members of the ODST will compete in events chosen by their coaches. Non-members may select up to three events from the list available at mccsokinawa.com/swimteam.

Triple Threats in the Art World Kids’ Pastel, Sketching and Oil Painting Classes The stars have aligned at Camp Courtney Arts and Crafts and Camp Foster Framing and Fine Arts, where you’ll find pastel, sketching and oil painting classes for kids twice a week. This is the perfect chance to give your child a strong foundation in art, as he or she will have the opportunity to work in different mediums and learn a wide range of techniques critical to becoming a well-rounded artist and perhaps even a triple threat in the art world.

Courtney Arts and Crafts offers these kids’ art classes Thursdays and Saturdays from 3:30 to 4:30 p.m. while Foster Framing and Fine Arts offers these same classes Wednesdays and Fridays from 3:30 to 4:30 p.m.

The sketching classes are open to children ages 5–12 and cost $32

for eight sessions. Participants must bring a sketch book, wooden pencils, coloring pencils and an eraser to each class.

After completing one full round of eight sketching sessions, kids may graduate to the pastel or oil painting class, which are both $40 per eight sessions and open to kids ages 10–17. Materials are not included, so participants will need to bring their own.

For more information on any of the three classes, please head to mccsokinawa.com/framingandfinearts or mccsokinawa.com/courtneyartsandcrafts. To register, please do so in person at whichever location you’d prefer your child to take the class.

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SERVICES

Give Your Artwork the Presidential Treatment Presidents’ Day Sale at Foster Framing and Fine Arts Presidents and portraits have a storied past.

As a tradition, every United States president has had an official portrait created during their tenure, most commonly in the form of an oil painting. The importance of these paintings is hard to overstate—especially for the early presidents, as cameras hadn’t been invented yet. When one imagines George Washington or Thomas Jefferson, the image formed in the mind’s eye is often based on a portrait of that president. Without these portraits, we may not know what our past presidents looked like; all we would know of George Washington’s appearance would be that he had wooden chompers and a big nose, and that bare description paints a picture more reminiscent of a circus performer than of the stately gentleman we see on the one-dollar bill.

In addition to the artists themselves, a great deal of appreciation is owed to the framers—not of the Constitution in this case, but of the portraits! Frames are, of course, instrumental in elongating and enhancing an artwork’s life, and this month, Foster Framing and Fine Arts is having a Presidents’ Day Sale where you’ll receive 10% OFF entire orders of custom or DIY frames.

Stop by the Foster Community Center between February 16 and 20 and take advantage of this sale to give your artwork the presidential treatment.

For more information, head to mccsokinawa.com/framingandfinearts. If you have any questions, please call 645-3674 from a DSN or 098-970-3674 from off base.

In Your Heart and on Your Coffee Table The Best of Okinawa Living and Omoide: Memories of Okinawa Okinawa’s charm and beauty are timeless, an observation that is evident to those who visit for a week or inhabit this island for a lifetime. Most of us, though, will PCS and all we will have of Okinawa will be our memories. And while memories are serviceable in recalling the broad strokes—blue waters and skies, delicious cuisine, smiling faces and so on—they don’t do Okinawa justice. Memories don’t evoke all the finer details that make Okinawa so special—just how otherworldly the blues of the waters and skies are; the bright blue damselfish and dopey-looking parrotfish with their big buckteeth; the charming old Okinawan lady that served you soba noodles at your favorite restaurant or the intricate tiled roofs and shīsā adorning them.

The good news is you don’t have to settle for your memories. Take Okinawa with you in the form of MCCS’ two love letters to Okinawa—The Best of Okinawa Living and Omoide: Memories of Okinawa. The Best of Okinawa Living is a collection of text, photography and design compiled from the pages of Okinawa Living Magazine over the years which offers readers a fun and thorough overview of the islands’ culture, sights, festivals and more. Omoide: Memories of Okinawa, meanwhile, is a stunning assemblage of photography that will smooth the creases in your memories and transport you back to your homeaway-from-home after you’ve left. These books and more, including The Best of Okinawa Living Postcards and Map of Okinawa, are available at Exchanges and select Exchange Expresses island-wide.

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TROY’s Military and Family Scholarship caps the cost of tuition at $250 per credit hour for active duty military. Also, your spouse and dependents receive up to 50% in tuition savings.

for

Troops Center

TERM IV, 2021 Mar. 15 - May 16, 2021 Registration Begins: 02/22/21 TERM V, 2021 May 24 - Jul. 25, 2021 Registration Begins: 05/03/21

CONTACT THE PROGRAM

TERM I, 2021 Aug. 9 - Oct. 10, 2021 Registration Begins: 05/03/21

FOR MORE INFORMATION

TERM II, 2021 Oct. 11 - Dec. 12, 2021 Registration Begins: 09/20/21

COORDINATOR NEAREST YOU

KADENA AB kadena@troy.edu DSN 634-7464

OSAN AB osan@troy.edu DSN 784-8151

MISAWA AB misawa@troy.edu DSN 226-3748

CAMP HUMPHREYS humphreys@troy.edu DSN 755-3534

troy.edu/pacific

Okinawa Living 7.9375 x 5.625 2019-2020 Term 0 - Edit.indd 1

TERM III, 2022 Jan. 3 - Mar. 6, 2022 Registration Begins: 11/22/21 TERM IV, 2022 Mar. 14 - May 15, 2022 Registration Begins: 02/21/22 TERM V, 2022 May 23 - Jul. 24, 2022 Registration Begins: 05/02/22

5/6/0.

11:01 AM

TEXT: MIKE DALEY DESIGN: EMELINE TOOLE

MCCS PHOTO

Many know Okinawa for its picturesque coastlines, surrounding seas teeming with life, fascinating culture with thousands of years of history and the islands’ citizens—many of whom remain happy and openhearted despite witnessing and overcoming horrors that no human should experience.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 57

owever, to truly “discover” Okinawa’s true character, one must delve deeper than an afternoon sojourn to places such as Okuma Beach, the Prefectural Museum of History or Ryukyu Mura Village, as those locations only scratch the surface. The best way to begin exploring Okinawa is to don a pair of sturdy and comfortable walking shoes and experience it with your own eyes, on your own two feet. And the best way to begin to understand it is to take the time and get to know the wonderful and friendly people that call Okinawa home.

But where to start?

MCCS PHOTO

Okinawa is known to the rest of Japan for its rural areas and seaside resorts that offer escape from a fast-paced city life.

Yet, one often-overlooked aspect of Okinawa’s character is its cities, particularly the backstreets in the prefecture’s capital city of Naha. Like cities throughout Japan, Naha has its share of concrete block architecture, narrow streets and relentless traffic jams. However, this micro-metropolis (when compared to sprawling cities such as Tokyo and Osaka) is liberally flavored with a unique Ryukyu style unseen anywhere else in Japan.

Although most have visited Naha’s Kokusai Street, two areas of Okinawa’s capital—Tsuboya and Sakurazaka— are hidden from plain view, with Sakurazaka being fairly unknown to most tourists. Boasting hundreds of years of history between them, they are both symbols of Okinawa’s dark past and its bright future.

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MCCS PHOTOS

Sakurazaka is located “off the beaten path” in many ways.

Known by old-timers as one of the first entertainment districts (as in the type adults enjoy in the evening), this district was the kind of place that the word “seedy” would aptly describe. However, things changed with the opening of one of Okinawa’s first of many movie theaters in 1953.

This theater, as well as the area, went through many name changes over the decades before finally closing in 2005.

Today, Sakurazaka is a curious mixture of old and new, of decrepit buildings and the sparkle of neon. Although there are still a few shops that don’t open until late in the evening, Sakurazaka has taken a turn to the bohemian with eclectic eateries and cafes alongside small shops hawking artwork or clothing featuring cutting-edge designs and obscure or independent labels. The theater that was closed in 2005 was reopened and reimagined, featuring indie films and concerts by local indie-label bands.

Sakurazaka also features many shops hidden in alleys like mini-treasure troves featuring unique artwork, curious knickknacks and more. One such shop, located less than a minute away from the theater, is Roadworks (facebook.com/toyroadwork), which features the ancient art of hariko, or papier-mâché figurines. Many hariko figures were toys for children during ancient times, but due to their weakness to moisture, many didn’t survive. On Okinawa, hariko are still available and one of the most eclectic artists that currently creates hariko is Morito Toyonaga, owner of Roadworks. Roadworks, which also produces the Okinawa Omoshiro Karuta series of card games as well as Okinawan-themed board games, features many uniquely Okinawan figures and figurines—all interpreted in Toyonaga’s singular style.

Also located in Sakurazaka is Shijo Hondori, an enclosed arcade market which gives visitors a sense that they accidentally walked through a portal and were transported to Okinawa during the 1960s. Many of the shops in this arcade are owned and operated by families that have resided there for generations, with shops selling wares ranging from fresh fruit, sātā andagi (Okinawan donuts) and other snacks to clothing, black pearl jewelry and antiques.

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MCCS PHOTO NAME/BIGSTOCK.COM

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MCCS PHOTOS

Located only a five-minute walk away from Sakurazaka is another area of Okinawa known for its concentration of artists: Tsuboya. Yachimun, or “pottery” in the local language of Uchinâguchi, is one of the most well-established arts (and crafts) in the archipelago. Many examples of yachimun are traditionally simple in shape; however, they still embody the soul of the island chain and offer viewers a glimpse of the glory of the Ryukyu Kingdom.

Okinawan yachimun varies quite widely in form, size and function. Items can range from dishes, plates, bowls, basins, pots, jars and vases, to more traditional items like burial urns and shīsā (a lion-dog talisman thought to protect a home from bad luck). And, while many different styles and specialties prevail, the common ancestors of all Ryukyu pottery are arayachi (unglazed) and jōyachi (glazed) yachimun from Tsuboya Village.

It is believed that the first kilns were built in Tsuboya in the late 1600s during the reign of King Sho-Tei. The majority of work was arayachi—primarily as roof tiles as well as jars and storage containers used to store rice, soybeans and miso (soybean paste). Arayachi jugs were also indispensable for kamajikomi (the process of fermenting awamori) and maturing awamori into prized kūsū (aged awamori). Probably the most well-known products seen throughout the island, however, are the shīsā.

In the beginning, all ceramic shīsā were of the unglazed variety, and since Tsuboya was the mecca of arayachi pottery, most established practitioners learned their craft there. Originally, there were more than ten kilns in the district, but only one survived the devastation of WWII. This kiln, known as Fuēnū Gama (southern kiln) was built in the noborigama or “climbing kiln” style.

Whether they were used for arayachi or jōyachi, noborigama were always built on a slope and separated into several chambers called fukuro. While lit and functioning, these kilns bear a striking resemblance to a smoke-belching, fire-breathing dragon—especially during the evening hours. Fuēnū Gama—which is still quite impressive, even though now cold, quiet and unused—is located on Yachimun-Dori (Pottery Street) in Tsuboya, next to the Tsuboya Pottery Museum.

Today, the potters of Tsuboya use electric kilns to create their wares and those who still use traditional noborigama have moved to Yomitan Village. The overall

number of people specializing in arayachi ware has thinned—mostly due to the popularity of glazed ware among tourists. However, the number of shops and the quality of work remain high in Tsuboya.

Over the years, many aspects of Okinawa have changed with modernization. Technology reaches almost every area of the island—with three bars of reception and 4G (with 5G just over the horizon) connectivity reaching the ancient streets of Tsuboya and the narrow alleyways of Sakurazaka. Regardless of such, areas like these will always be unmistakably and undisputedly 100-percent Ryukyu. Be sure to add these areas to your list of “must-see places” before you leave the island.

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 65

LIVING ON OKINAWA

The Onigiri Serves Four (two per person) Ingredients • 4 cups of freshly cooked Japanese short-grain rice (preferably Koshihikari) • 8 sheets of Mainichinori brand nori (seaweed) strips • Sea salt • Fillings such as pickled plum (umeboshi), flaked salmon (shake), cooked salty cod roe (tarako), aburamiso (flaked pork cooked in a sweetened miso) or even tuna fish with mayonnaise Method of Preparation 1. Wash and cook the rice as directed (one cup of cold mineral water per cup of rice).

2. Divide the rice into eight equal portions after cooling a bit (but not too much, or the quality of the onigiri will be compromised). Split each portion in half for a total of 16.

3. Wash hands well with very cold water and soak a bit (important) before sprinkling liberally with salt. Some place a salted sheet of Saran Wrap on top of the hand so the rice doesn’t stick.

4. Reach in and place one of the portions of hot rice on the flat of one hand and quickly dab a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center after making a dimple (CAUTION: IT WILL BE VERY HOT). Place the remaining rice on top, covering the filling.

5. Working very quickly, mold the rice into the shape of a right triangle, starting at the edges and flipping constantly (cup your hand at a right angle to form each corner). Use enough pressure to keep the onigiri from falling apart, but not too much.

6. Immediately before serving, wrap with nori to preserve its crunchy consistency.

7. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Ogres & Soybeans Setsubun, a Japanese festival that originated in ancient China, is held on February 3—the day before the first day of spring, according to the lunar calendar. The general idea of Setsubun is to drive evil spirits, bad luck and sickness away from the home while welcoming in good luck and happiness…all by throwing roasted soybeans.

Here is how it is done: First, throw the beans outside the home from doorways and windows (be careful not to hit anybody in

the eyes) while shouting “oni wa soto!” (ogres, get out). Next, toss handfuls of beans inside of the home while saying “fuku wa uchi!” (happiness and good luck, welcome inside) to invite the nice stuff into the abode.

In many places in Japan, sometimes the father (and on occasion, the oldest son) will don an oni (ogre) mask while the rest of the family members pepper them with soybeans to frighten the “oni” away.

This tradition makes the event more enjoyable for children, although many younger kids dread the occasion, as some dads and brothers can get a bit too “into” their parts. After all the throwing is done, it is also customary that everyone eat the same number of beans as their age in order to wish for good health during the year.

Many may be wondering “why soybeans?” Due to soybeans’ high nutritional value, soil-fixing properties and ability to grow virtually anywhere, it was thought that they contained magical powers. Soybeans were therefore believed to be an effective weapon against evil.

If you are planning to join the many millions of Japanese in bean throwing for Setsubun this year, please remember one thing: use roasted beans—unless you want a soybean farm in your yard!

Uchinâguchi Corner English

Japanese

Uchinâguchi

Love

Ai

Aisun

FEBRUARY 2021 | OKINAWA LIVING 69

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