Vogue Patterns Magazine October/November 2010, The Presser Foot That Rises Automatically

Featured Article

as seen in the October/November 2010 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine.

the presser foot

that rises automatically

Š2010 The McCALL PATTERN COMPANY. All rights reserved.

sew much more hands off!

the presser foot

that rises automatically

Today’s sewing machines are loaded with special features and functions that make sewing easier and more efficient. With the help of the machine manufacturers, Vogue Patterns will be highlighting some of those features in each issue and providing projects and techniques that explore how they work.

The LAURA ASHLEY LIMITED EDITION INNOV-ÍS NX-2000 from Brother is rich with features and built-in stitches designed to enhance the sewing experience. If you’re tackling a project that requires precision stitching

18

www.voguepatterns.com

and turning corners, you’re going to love the machine’s pivot function.

Engaged with the touch of a button this option will automatically raise the presser foot each time you lift your foot from the foot control, while leaving the needle firmly in your fabric.

Resume sewing and the presser foot automatically lowers itself. You never have to touch it; leaving your hand free to guide the fabric. It’s a very practical feature that you’ll really appreciate when you’re working on tailoring techniques that call for precise stitching and careful fabric maneuvering at the same time, like this welt pocket technique demonstrated by Brother’s Joanne Banko.

The classic welt-pocket, spiced up with a playful color contrast, is perfectly suited for a tailored jacket, but you could also add it to a custom crafted purse or tote. At the bottom of this page, there’s a tissue holder project that’s ideal for practicing this technique, and it makes a great gift! Once you have a few tissue holders under your belt, you’ll be ready to tackle a welt pocket in a tailored garment with ease and confidence.

Material Matters Select a firmly woven light-to-medium weight fabric.

Since the pocket is fashioned using a simple folded method, these fabrics will give the best results. Worsted wool, cotton and linen are an ideal choice as they press well and provide a crisp, neat look for the finished pocket.

Avoid thick fabrics—they’ll create too much bulk.

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2010

In addition to the fashion fabric and notions for your pattern you’ll need: • Approximately 1/4 yard or fabric scraps in sizes noted below, for the “welt lips” • Lightweight fusible interfacing

• Draw a horizontal line on the right side of the garment to mark the location of the pocket opening.

• On the wrong side of the welt piece, using an erasable marker, draw a box measuring 1/2" x 5" (13mm x 12.5cm), centered.

• Erasable fabric marker or pencil • Ruler • Thread in matching or contrasting colors Prepare the fabric pieces for stitching as follows: • For the welt piece, cut one piece of fabric 3" x 7" (7.5cm x 18cm). Stabilize this piece with lightweight fusible interfacing.

• For the pocket sac, cut one piece of fabric 7" x 12" (18cm x 30.5cm).

Machine Set Up Set the machine for ordinary sewing using a straight stitch and a stitch length of 1.8mm. Engage the machine’s pivot function by touching the on-screen icon. Use thread that matches either color fabric for construction. When topstitching, use a contrast thread and a longer stitch length and switch to the metal open toe foot for better visibility. (continued on page 20)

Tissue Holder Project Try out the technique with this quick to make tissue case—it makes a great gift!

FABRIC PREPARATION For the welt, cut one piece of fabric 21/2" x 5" (6.4cm x 12.5cm).

Stabilize this piece with lightweight fusible interfacing.

For the tissue holder, cut two pieces of fabric 4" x 6" (10.2cm x 15.2cm).

Stabilize each with lightweight fusible interfacing.

SEWING STEPS

YOU’LL NEED: • 1/8 yard each of contrasting fabrics or fabric scraps in sizes noted below • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Erasable fabric marker or pencil • Ruler • Thread in matching and contrasting colors

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2010

Create a welt pocket opening on one piece of the tissue holder following steps 1 through 3, next page.

With contrast thread, topstitch around the entire pocket opening. With right sides together, stitch the tissue holder top to the bottom with a 1/4" seam around all four sides, using the pivot function to maneuver precisely around each corner. Trim the corners and turn the piece right side out through the pocket opening. Insert a small packet of tissues through the pocket opening.

www.voguepatterns.com

19

sew much more

(continued from page 19)

Sewing Steps

1

With right sides together, center the 3" x 7" (7.5cm x 18cm) welt piece over the horizontal line on the fashion fabric. Sew around the box, pivoting around each corner. Stitch a second time around each corner for re-enforcement. Cut through the center of the box, stopping 1/2" (13mm) before you reach the ends. Clip diagonally up to each of the four corners.

5

Using the regular presser foot, attach the pocket sack to the lower portion of the welt piece, having right sides together and using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. Press the seam toward the bottom of the pocket sack.

2

Turn the welt to the inside of the garment piece and press. Flip the fabric so that the garment side faces you. Working from the right side, form the welts by folding and pressing 1/4" (6mm) of each long edge toward the center of the opening. Press carefully from the right and wrong side of the garment.

6

Next, fold the pocket sack up to the top edge of the welt. Using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance, sew the top edge of the pocket sack to the top of the welt, and the sides of the pocket sack to itself and the welt ends, smoothing the fashion fabric out of the way. Stitch only through the pocket sack and welt; not the garment.

3

Working from the outside of the garment, fold back the fashion fabric to expose the end of the welt and stitch through the welt and corner points. Do this for both ends of the welt.

7

4 20

Topstitch along the lower welt from the right side, using the inside edge of the presser foot toe as a guide.

www.voguepatterns.com

Clean ďŹ nish the raw edges of all exposed seam allowances on the pocket sack.

8

Topstitch the three remaining sides of the welt from the right side, matching up with the previous topstitching, and using the pivot function to maneuver precisely around each corner.

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2010