Vogue Patterns Magazine April/May 2014 sampler

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

Fashion in Bloom!

RUNWAY INSPIRED SPRING LOOKS

APRIL/MAY 2014

FREE PATTERN OFFER

SEE PAGE 91 FOR DETAILS

FOCUS ON FIT: RAGLAN SLEEVES

New Offerings From Marcy & Katherine Tilton

SEWING MACHINE SHOPPING GUIDE VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

SAMPLER

Contents

FEATURES

14 A Passion for Fashion

Vogue Patterns April/May 2014

American Sewing Expo’s design challenge brings excitement—and big prizes— to the runway.

by Daryl Brower

16 Rules of Marking A look at tools to make alterations easy and accurate, and the techniques for using them.

by Kathryn Brenne

20 Blade Runner A complete guide to rotary cutters, blades, sharpeners, and mats.

by Linda Turner Griepentrog

29 Sewing Machine Shopping Guide Guidelines and advice on where and how to shop, plus detailed comparison charts of the newest machines from economy to top-of-the-line.

by Beth Baumgartel

40 Fashion in Bloom With just a few scraps of fabric, and a needle and thread, you can create fabric flowers that turn ordinary designs into runway inspired looks.

by Gillian Conahan

50 Focus on Fit Learn how to fit and alter this season’s popular raglan sleeve.

by Pati Palmer

ON THE COVER Fashion in bloom. Fabric flowers adorn A-line top B5988, Misses’ 8-24.

See page 40 for details.

Earrings: Rivka Friedman.

Ring: Charlene K. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess.

2 VOGUE PATTERNS

69

FASHION

FASHION REPORT

46 Fashions That Work

38 Fantasy Florals

A versatile selection of coordinated pieces for a business look that’s quick and easy to sew.

60 Knit Hits Step into the spotlight in fabulous knit dresses that are easy to fit, easy to sew, and easy to wear.

68 Drape and Structure Graceful spring looks in the unmistakable style of Marcy Tilton.

72 Vintage Vogue Authentic retro styles with plenty of modern appeal.

76 One Pattern, Endless Options Four garments times four fabrics equals a wardrobe that works!

80 Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina’s newest designs for the season.

Spring’s runways were bursting with dimensional florals, bringing new life to seasonal favorites.

IN EVERY ISSUE

5 Editor’s Letter 6 What Are You Sewing?

8 Star Blogger 10 Must-Haves 13 Web Watch RESOUCRES

88 Guide to Pattern and Fabric Requirements 91 Body Measurement Charts 92 Shop & Sew Marketplace 96 Fabric and Accessory Guide

46

82 Classic With A Twist Katherine Tilton brings us stylish basics with winning details.

84 Glamour Girls With a distinctive ‘50s flair, these retro Patterns by Gertie are a treat to make and wear.

62

72 APRIL/MAY 2014 3

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

Blade Runner

A Comprehensive Guide to Rotary Cutters, Blades, Sharpeners and Mats.

BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

F

irst introduced by Olfa in 1979, the rotary cutter has taken the quilting and sewing world by storm as an alternative to scissors and shears. This versatile tool can slice your cutting time in half when compared with traditional scissors.

If you have friends who quilt, chances are you are familiar with these tools, but may have never thought of them for your own sewing arsenal. It’s time to think again because rotary cutters can be a great tool for every sewing room. Rotary cutters can be used on all types of fabrics, from quilting cottons and wool to leather and synthetics, and they can cut multiple layers at a time. For the garment sewer, rotary cutters are especially beneficial when working with lightweight and slippery fabrics that squirm during scissor cutting. Movement of the fabric and pattern when the blades lift them from the table can distort the cut edge.

When you use a rotary cutter the fabric stays flat against the cutting surface, so cutting can be more precise. This is also ideal for cutting synthetic or real leather and suede, or any other fabric that would be marred by pins, because the fabric and patterns can be held down by weights, avoiding pins altogether.

Finally, rotary cutters are beneficial for sewers with arthritis who may have difficulty with the repetitive motion of cutting with scissors and shears.

SIZE MATTERS

There are several sizes of rotary cutters and cutting blades available. Most brands offer

20 VOGUE PATTERNS

sizes from 18mm to 65mm diameter. Smaller blades work best for cutting curves and pattern details like necklines and armholes, while larger blades make quick work of long, straight cuts like skirt seams, making your own bias binding, etc. New on the market is a fingertip mini rotary cutter with a permanent 18 mmdiameter blade. The cutter fits over the finger and is held like a pencil to give precise control—perfect for delicate fabrics and detailed cutting areas. Just as you have more than one size and shape of scissor in your toolbox, the same can hold true for rotary cutters.

TAKE SHAPE

Rotary cutters come in different shapes, sizes and colors, depending on the brand. Some offer simple straight rigid handles, others have a curved handle of one configuration or another, and still others have cushioned or padded handles or gripper-handle activated blades.

Some handles are looped for easier holding.

Many cutters work equally well for both leftand right-handed cutting (with switchable blade positions) while other brands are specific to one or the other, so be sure to research several brands to determine a good fit for your needs. The choice depends on what’s comfortable in your hand. If possible, it’s a good idea to try out several before you make a decision on which ones to purchase.

Manufacturers are continually coming up with new features. One company offers a rotary cutter with a built-in LED light for cutting dark fabrics or in poor light. Another offers a

1 Imaginisce CutBright LED lighted 45mm.

2 Fiskars Titanium curved handle 45mm.

3 Omnigrid cushion handle, pressure sensitive 45mm.

4 Fiskars Ergo Control heavy duty 60mm.

5 Olfa Splash quick blade change 45mm.

6 Sullivans Cutting Edge 45mm.

7 Havel’s fingertip lock trigger 45mm.

8 Gingher left-hand 45mm.

9 Clover slender 18mm.

10 The Grace Company comfort cutter 60mm.

11 Fiskars fingertip control 18mm.

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

1

7

2

8

3

9

4

10

5

11

6 APRIL/MAY 2014 21

MASTER INSTRUCTION

Focus on Fit

How To Fit And Alter A Raglan Sleeve

BY PATI PALMER

There are lots of myths out there about pattern fit. I cringe

first really get to know your body.

when I hear adamant statements like, “X-brand patterns

It is sometimes a rude awakening, but it is always empowering. Then

fit better than all the others.”

The only way that could be true is if all bodies were identi-

you must understand grainline. In

cal. I’ve been conducting fitting workshops for over 35 years and there’s one fact I know: Some alterations are necessary in nearly all designs no matter what your size or measurements. Even the models photographed on the pages of this magazine required fitting alterations to the garments featured here. It is extremely rare for a person to be able to sew together a garment, and have it fit perfectly, without making any alterations. And this is true for any pattern brand. That’s the beauty of sewing. You can make clothes that fit your body perfectly.

You just have to learn how.

Over the years Marta Alto and I have fit thousands of different bodies, and we’ve found a method that is easy and really works.

Tissue fitting. And I have developed patterns with McCall’s with specially marked lines on the tissues and adjustment directions to make fitting easier. Our method is not only for fitting, but helps you determine the amount of ease in the design and visualize the silhouette on your body. Once you have tissue-fit the pattern, the next step is to fit-as-you-sew.

50 VOGUE PATTERNS

But before you begin, you must

well-fitting clothing, except for bias cuts, the horizontal grain is parallel to the floor and the vertical grain is perpendicular to the floor. This concept will be a useful tool as you tissue fit your pattern.

Why focus on the raglan sleeve?

For one thing, it’s very popular right now, and when one of our workshop students asked us to do a raglan sleeve jacket so that she could learn how to fit that style, we saw the need and agreed. With us, students’ wishes reign supreme.

McCall’s M6709 (left) is the result.

This pattern includes the fitting instructions shown on the following pages, plus pattern tissue printed with alteration lines to make fitting M6709 a raglan sleeve easier. Once you learn the fitting concepts, you can Why can’t you just cut and sew from the make these alterations and adjustments to altered tissue? Because every fabric fits difany similar raglan sleeve pattern, such as ferently. Each has a unique drape, ease, and Vogue Pattern V8937 (opposite page), or Sanbias-give that tissue doesn’t have. We have dra Betzina’s blouse pattern V1385 (page 80). found that the design usually “grows” in fabYou may not believe this, but fitting can be rics, so if the tissue is large enough to fit, the fun. If you can think in 3-D, you will marvel at garment will generally be a little looser. And, your ability to solve fit puzzles. You will love no matter how carefully we cut or stitch, we the clothes you sew that flatter your figure make minor variances. Differences as small as because they fit. Good fit is worth the time 1 /8" can add up to inches if your garment has it takes. So turn the page and get started a lot of seams. Lots of little things can happen, on stitching yourself a perfect-fitting raglan so fitting as you sew is important. sleeve garment!

V8937

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS

EARRINGS: RJ GRAZIANO, RING AND NECKLACE: CHARLENE K, HANDBAG: MARY FRANCIS, BELT: WCM

MASTER INSTRUCTION

APRIL/MAY 2014 51

Step into the spotlight in fabulous bright knits! These looks are easy to ďŹ t, easy to sew, and easy to wear for an instant update to your spring wardrobe.

KNIT HITS 60

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

Easy dresses you can make up in an evening. Opposite page: A raised waist and bodice pleats give this dress a shapely fit, while the fullcuffed sleeves add a hint of retro flair. Very Easy Vogue V8825, Misses’ 8–24. Earrings and bracelets: Zenzii.

This page: A classic wrap is easy as anything to fit, and the bias bodice and flared skirt give this one a lovely relaxed drape. Very Easy Vogue V8896, Misses’ 8–24.

Bracelets: Zenzii. Handbag: Sondra Roberts.

61

72

VINTAGE VOGUE Authentic retro styles with plenty of modern appeal

WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS

The tucked bodice and box-pleated skirt of this 1950 shirtdress are soft and sweet in silk, but would also look fabulous in a crisp, airy cotton.

V8973, Misses’ 8–24.

Hat: Patricia Underwood.

Bracelet: Island Imports.

Handbag: Zenzii.

73

SANDRA’S EDITORIAL LICENSE We asked Sandra what prompted her to take her top pattern V1385 (opposite page) and make it a jacket (right). Here’s what she had to say. “When I bought this graphicprint quilted fabric at Josephine’s in Portland, Oregon, a store which is now closed and sorely missed, I knew I needed a pattern with few seams but a dramatic style to show off the fabric. My new top pattern was the perfect choice.

All I did was eliminate the buttons and the pleats on the sleeve, nothing else! The jacket is unlined with flat fell seams, truly a fast and easy jacket.” Notice how Sandra cut the sleeves on the cross grain to take advantage of the print.

Earrings: Anne Koplik. Ring and handbag: Zenzii.

WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS

New Today’s Fit patterns in sizes A – J (all sizes in one envelope).

Opposite page, left: This gently shaped cowl neck dress is designed for openwork knits and sheers, and includes a full-coverage slip. V1386. Earrings: RJ Graziano. Bracelets: Island Imports.

Handbag: Sondra Roberts. Shoes: Jessica Simpson. Opposite page, right: A loose-fitting raglan-sleeve top with darts at the waist, sleeves and raised neckline. V1385. Earrings: Zenzii. Bracelet: Charlene K.

30%OFF Cover Price

Subscribe Now!

81