Vogue Patterns Magazine August/September 2011 Sampler

contents p. 67

p. 96

A U G U S T/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1 p. 87

p. 77

p. 20

p. 75

p. 13 p. 14

fashion

52 ONE PANT, FOUR LOOKS Wide-leg pants are hot for fall.

60 FALL 2011 DESIGNER UPDATE The best looks from 7th Avenue.

72 DYNAMIC DUO Marcy and Katherine Tilton.

74 TODAY’S FIT BY SANDRA BETZINA Unexpected details in flattering silhouettes.

76 KEY PIECES Easy-to-make, easy-to-wear dresses, shirts and skirts.

82 WORKING WARDROBE Solid choices for your busy lifestyle...all in one pattern.

features

12 SEWING RETREATS Sandra Betzina’s guide to what to bring...from supplies to attitude.

in every issue 30 KEEPING DIY STYLE ALL IN THE FAMILY Erica Bunker’s point of view on stretching your wardrobe.

44 SMALL, SMALL, SMALL Pati Palmer offers advice on making alterations for the smaller figure.

32 INSIDE EDITION Linda Griepentrog uncovers the secrets of fashion’s support system.

48 PROJECT ONE: BOILED WOOL POCKET An easy technique with lots of chic.

20 HAVE SCISSORS, WILL TRAVEL Meet Nayantara Banerjee, the tailor who makes house calls.

36 LET THE FABRIC SPEAK Your imagination can be your guide when you add unique touches to fabric.

50 PROJECT TWO: LOOP THE LOOP BELT A quick and easy belt with room for expansion.

24 CONVERTING A ONE-PIECE SLEEVE INTO A TWO-PIECE Kathryn Brenne teaches the finer points of this transformation.

40 NORTH STARS Inspired by the beauty of the Canadian Arctic, students rise to the fashion challenge at Toronto’s Creativ Festival.

54 THE GREAT PRETENDERS: LEATHER-LOOK FABRICS Tips and techniques for sewing with this season’s hot fabric.

14 SEWING MACHINE SHOPPING GUIDE Top 20 topics to help you get what you want and what you need.

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Editor’s Letter

6

Mailbox

8

What Are You Sewing?

10 Editor’s Choice 29 The Selfish Seamstress: Sewing Therapy 23 Web Watch 88 Guide to Patterns & Fabric Requirements 91 Body Measurements Charts 94 Crossword 96 Thread Tales

84 JACKETS REQUIRED The most sophisticated cool weather cover ups.

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5

on the cover

Donna Karan’s knock-out knit turtleneck with lots of ruching, V1259, Misses’ 4-16.

Hair and Makeup: Joseph Boggess.

Photographed by Brian Kraus.

97 Fabric & Accessory Guide

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

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sewing REVOLUTION

what are you sewing?

Have you made something you’re very proud of? Do the compliments keep coming?

If so, send us a picture and a short description and we’ll feature it here as inspiration for your fellow readers.

In each issue, we’ll randomly select one person from this feature to receive a FREE one-year subscription to Vogue Patterns magazine. Send your photo to mailbox@voguepatterns.com.

DRESSES

ROBES

fall 2011

EVENING, PROM, BRIDAL

SOIREE,BAL,MARIAGES

THE BEST OF

TOPS

MAGGY LONDON B5672 p.00

BUTTERICK

HAUTS

SKIRTS, PANTS JUPES,PANTALONS

DESIGNERS

JENNIFER LOKEY B5689 p.00

COATS, JACKETS, VESTS

MANTEAUX, VESTES, GILETS

SPORTSWEAR, SUITS TENUES DE SPORT, TAILLEURS

Join CLUB BMV for GREAT DEALS!

MAGGY LONDON: Fashion Fresh Attitude LARGE SIZES

SUZI CHIN for MAGGY BOUTIQUE: Polish and Glamour

GRANDE TAILLES

MUSE: Modern Style

SLEEPWEAR, MATERNITY, MEN, UNIFORMS

CONNIE CRAWFORD: Modern Fit for Woman & Misses'

TENUES SOMMEIL, MATERNITÉ HOMME, UNIFORMES

CONNIE CRAWFO RD B5689 p.00

YES! IT’S EASY SEE & SEW®

JENNIFER LOKEY: A Creative Way with Aprons NANCY FARRIS THEE: Historical Costumes

INFANTS, TODDLERS, CHILDREN, GIRLS & BOYS

MUSE B5677 p.00

WAVERLY: Classic American Traditions

BÉBÉ, BAMBIN, ENFANT, FILLE & GARÇON

COSTUMES

DÉGUISEMENTS

ACCESSORIES CRAFTS ACCESSOIRES TABLIERS

HOME DECORATING

MAISON DECOR

www.butterick.com

FALL 2011 BEST BUTTERICK DESIGNERS

NEW NOUVEAU / NUEVO

M6400 P. 312 M6399 P. 317

M6400 P. 312

GET IN ON MATERIAL MONDAYS! Club members can enter our weekly giveaway of luxurious fabric direct from our closet— silk, wool, linen and more!

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I made this dress for my daughter Victoria’s prom two years ago. It was a Tom and Linda Platt Pattern V2964. It was a pleasure to sew and the multisizing of the pattern made the fitting very easy.

She received many compliments and no one had the same dress.

—Susan Blackburn

M6402 P. 406

M6404 P. 409

M6404 P. 409 www.mccallpattern.com

McCALL’S FALL TRENDS M6402, 6400, 6404

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VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

START SHOPPING!

See page, 92 for details.

project one

simple

flap pocket for boiled wool

by Kathryn Brenne

1. Create a flap template. The template shown here is 2 ½" x 6," with rounded lower corners. (Note: A 6" pocket opening is large enough to accommodate a hand, but not so wide that it will gape open when worn.) To ensure that the rounded corners are perfectly symmetrical, trace a 2 ½" x 6" rectangle on a piece of paper and cut it out. Fold it in half vertically and draw the rounded corner. Glue the pattern to a thin piece of cardboard (cereal box) with the traced line facing up and cut out carefully.

2½"

1

fold line

INSPIRED BY A DESIGNER GARMENT SEEN IN A SOHO BOUTIQUE, this simple pocket will make an interesting addition to a coat made of boiled wool, fleece or any non-fraying fabric. The beauty of the pocket is that it isn’t bulky, and is somewhat inconspicuous, consisting of the outer fabric and one layer to be used as the pocket bag. The sample shown here is for a classic U-shaped flap, but you can be creative and make it any shape you choose—square, V, scalloped or asymmetrical. You can also be creative with your use of fabrics. The boiled wool used in the sample is plain gray on one side and black lace on the opposite. When the flap is lifted the black lace is on the underside. The pocket bag (under layer of fabric) could have shown the black lace side of the fabric, or could have been made from a different color fabric so that when the flap is lifted you have a contrast. Use your imagination for a truly unique design.

3"

1

3

4

2

5

6

2. Chalk mark the flap onto the garment using the template as a guide. Stitch the lower edge of the flap on top of the marking using heavy duty topstitching thread and a stitch length of 3.5mm. Leave long thread tails at the beginning and end and do not backstitch.

Instead, pull the thread tails through to the wrong side, knot and bury in the fabric.

3. Chalk mark the pocket bag outline. For this example a rectangular shape (7½" x 9½") is used, but you can create any type of shape to suit your flap (i.e. circular, triangular, heart, etc.).The top of the pocket bag marking is aligned with the top edge of the flap.

4. Position a piece of fabric slightly larger than the pocket beneath the marking. For this pocket, the fabric is 9¼" x 11¼". Pin in place to hold.

5. Stitch through all layers using a stitch length of 3.5mm and the same topstitching thread. Leave long thread tails and pull them through to the wrong side, knot and bury in the fabric. Press.

6. Using small, sharp embroidery scissors carefully cut through the top layer of fabric about 1/8" away from the pocket flap stitching line, creating the flap. ✂ Kathryn Brenne is the owner of The Academy of Fine Sewing & Design. Visit her website www.finesewing.com to see a complete listing of workshops and tours.

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VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

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One Pant, Four Looks!

Wide-leg pants are hot for fall. They’re perfect for work, weekend or a night on the town.

Claire Shaeffer’s Custom Couture Collection, V8652 Misses’ 8-22.

Earrings: Elizabeth Cole Earrings: Kenneth Jay Lane

Earrings and Bracelet: Tuleste Market

Earrings and Necklace: Patricia Von Musulin

Cuff: Patricia Von Musulin

Ring: Kenneth Jay Lane

Gloves: Carolina Amato

Bracelets: Elizabeth Cole

Bracelet: Kenneth Jay Lane

Clutch: Halston Heritage at Designs by Stephene.com

Clutch: M.C.L. by Matthew Campbell Laurenza

Bag: Cole Haan at Zappos.com

Shoes: Halston Heritage at Designs by Stephene.com

Handbag: Z Spoke by Zac Posen at Designs by Stephene.com

Shoes: Georgina Goodman at Designs by Stephene.com 52

Shoes: Gastone Lucioli at Designs by Stephene.com VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

Shoes: Guiseppe Zanotti at Designs by Stephene.com

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technical tips

the great pretenders:

leather-look fabrics

by Kathryn Brenne

V1198

Styling

Real leather garments are designed to accommodate the size and shape of animal skins. To duplicate this look, choose a pattern with lots of smaller pieces seamed together, such as Today’s Fit V1198 or Very Easy Vogue V8714. Looking for something unconventional? We matched an ultra-drapey faux leather with Very Easy Vogue V8756, a jacket with cascading collar. If you’re not ready to try an entire garment of “pleather,” consider using it as an accent on yokes, collars, pockets or cuffs, as in Anne Klein V1264, or on an accessory, such as handbags V8760. Faux leather is also great for belts and hats.

WARNINGS V8756

V8760

Synthetic leather has been around for a long time, but it has not always had a good reputation; in fact, it has been jokingly nicknamed “pleather” (plastic-leather). The good news is that recent technology has improved faux leathers to the point where they are hard to tell apart from the real thing. The variety of weights, textures and colors are nearly limitless and are available in a wide price range, making them a great alternative to leather. Fashion forecasters predict that leather is going to be hot for fall 2011, so take our stitching advice and be prepared to add some to your wardrobe. If you’ve never sewn with them—or haven’t tried them in a long time—now’s the time to give them a try.

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VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

• It is best to test out the fit of the garment by sewing a test garment. Stitching in faux leather will leave permanent holes.

• Pins will leave permanent holes in the fabric. Instead use weights to hold the pattern in place and a rotary cutter to cut the fabric.

• Do not use a tracing wheel and paper as it may leave a permanent mark on the fabric. Pattern markings such as dots, darts and pocket placements can be transferred to the wrong side of the fabric using a soft lead pencil.

• Faux leather can be warm to wear as it does not breathe well. Add a couple of eyelets to the underarms of garments, allowing them to breathe.

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

V1264

Layout

Faux leather is produced with a backing fabric, which is quite often a knit. Although a knit has give in both directions, the lengthwise grain is usually stable while the crosswise has quite a bit of stretch. The pattern can be laid out following the lengthwise grain of the fabric.

Tools & Settings

A Microtex 130/705 H-M or a Jeans 130/705 H-J needle in size 70 will work well to penetrate the coating of the fabric. Both types of needles have a very sharp tip and thin shaft. For the samples shown on the next page a Jeans needle was used.

For the buttonhole, a Microtex needle worked better to prevent skipped stitches. If skipped stitches are a problem, try a larger-sized needle.

A regular presser foot will work well to sew the seams initially as the foot rides over the knit backing. However, you will need a Teflon® presser foot for any topstitching. Without a Teflon® foot, the presser foot will stick to the fabric resulting in small stitches and uneven feeding of the layers. On my sewing machine, I used the built-in walking foot along with Teflon® foot.

Lengthen the stitch slightly so that there are not as many holes close together, which can lead to tearing. For seams use a stitch length of 2.7mm; for edgestitching and topstitching use a stitch length of 3 mm. All-purpose 100% polyester thread is (continued on page 56 suitable for sewing faux leather.

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