Vogue Patterns Magazine 2011 June/July 2011 Sampler

contents p. 75

p. 14

J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 1 p. 54

p. 28

fashion

46 ONE DRESS, FOUR LOOKS The perfect little dress for summer, that goes with everything.

76 PERFECTLY SUITED Graphically presented in black and white, this wardrobe can go from work to evening cocktails.

48 WRAP STAR A great knit dress that can be wrapped and tied in endless ways.

78 EASY SUMMER STYLE Looking great has never been easier.

52 ONE SHOULDER MAKE OVER How to convert a jewel neck dress to a one shoulder stunner.

54 WHAT’S NEW NOW! Our designer showcase of the hottest looks of the season.

74 TODAY’S FIT BY SANDRA BETZINA The colors of the Sahara give exotic appeal to these pieces.

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86 VINTAGE VOGUE A look back at fashions from the ‘40s and ‘50s

features

14 GOING GREEN A guide to organic fabrics, notions and threads.

18 KNIT KNOWLEDGE Sandra Betzina’s techniques and tips for working with knit fabrics.

20 FUN IN THE SUN Use natural light to create your own fabric designs.

26 TIPS FOR TOPSTITCHING Claire Shaeffer’s tips for professional results.

28 FREE PROJECT 1: BRAIDED BRACELET A quick and easy summer accessory.

32 FREE PROJECT 2: SEW A SIMPLE SARONG Perfect for weekend getaways.

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p. 21

in every issue 34 FREE PROJECT 3: PETTICOAT JUNCTION How to make a fabulous petticoat.

36 STRETCH YOUR OPTIONS A lesson on the types of elastic and stitch to make great-looking waistbands.

42 HOT COUTURE Sewing is cool, but sometimes it takes a little heat [tool] to do the job right!

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Editor’s Letter

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Mailbox

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What Are You Sewing?

on the cover

10 Editor’s Choice 12 The Selfish Seamstress: Sewing Therapy 17 Web Watch 88 Body Measurements Charts 90 Guide to Patterns & Fabric Requirements 94 Crossword 96 Thread Tales 97 Fabric & Accessory Guide

VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

Kay Unger’s softly pleated and ruched dress, V1241, Misses’ 8-22. Earrings: Roberta Chiarella. Hair and Makeup: Joseph Boggess. Photographed by Brian Kraus.

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sew organic

going green

by Linda Turner Griepentrog

Many of us already do it at the supermarket, but now you can do it in your sewing room.

Whether it’s a strawberry, a head of lettuce or fabric for your next garment project, going organic seems like the right choice—for you and the environment.

The term “organic” is often thrown around with fervor, attracting those with any penchant for environmental concerns. But truly organic fiber products must meet strict standards and producers work hard to become certified by meeting the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS), legally giving them the right to use the term.

Organic means that a product (i.e. cotton, linen, hemp, etc.) is grown without the use of toxic pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers and that the plants themselves are not genetically modified. The fields must be free of any pesticides or chemicals for three years prior to planting. Plants are grown in a sustainable and environmentally friendly manner to allow for undamaged future production.

Organic cotton is free of chlorine, sodium hydroxide and formaldehyde, all of which can be present in conventionally grown fibers.

One important note with relation to organic fibers: even though the actual growing process may be organic, the finishing and dyeing processes may not be. So, if you’re a purist, be sure to check on these factors as well. Some fibers and fabrics are also organically dyed, using vegetables, berries, minerals, etc. to impart the color; others use low-impact fiber-reactive dyes (see next page).

Organic wool fabrics are also available, meaning the sheep have been raised with organic methods and the wool processed without toxic chemicals. In addition to purely organic fibers, look for blends with

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other sustainable fibers like Tencel®, hemp, EcoSpun (made from recycled soda bottles), soy and bamboo.

FiberActive Organics 16-ply braid can be used for knitting, ribbon embroidery, or anything else you can imagine.

Expectations

Organic fibers make up a very small portion of those grown around the world (less than 1% according to the Organic Trade Association), though production is rising due to demand. Traditional cotton production accounts for the use of 25% of all chemical pesticides used in agriculture.

Because of the strict standards, organic

VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

production costs are higher and if organic finishing methods are used, the cost increases again. So, expect to pay a bit more for organic fabrics and notions, just like for produce.

Fabrics

Many organic fabrics are not dyed—they simply have their inherent fiber coloring of white, off-white, beiges and tans, depending on the crop. Many companies offer organic fabrics (see Resources, next page)—look for them in solids, many textures and prints, in both knits and wovens. Also available are sateens, voiles, sheeting, twills, flannels, terry cloth, velveteen and canvas.

Fabrics can be found made from organically grown cotton, bamboo, linen, hemp and blends of these fibers.

Since there is minimal processing of some organic fibers, it’s good to pre-wash them using an environmentally friendly detergent before sewing to deter later shrinkage. Some fabrics may shrink up to 10%.

gingham, and solid natural colors in Sherpa, terry cloth and fleece. In addition, the company offers two coordinating trims— Ruffle Rac, a soft rickrack, and a gingham bias trim.

MOD GREEN POD is the place for organically produced upholstery-weight cottons in both contemporary prints and solids. The company also offers a custom program where you can pick the design coloration.

TIMELESS TREASURES The Mighty Jungle juvenile collection includes 7 fabrics, including two animal prints and a stripe with coordinates. Suzi Q offers a contemporary grouping of 12 pieces in two colorways.

VRESEIS sells FoxFibre Organic Cottons, actually grown in colors. The Colorganic fabrics are both grown and processed using certified organic methods. Yarns used in their fabrics are not washed before weaving, so the color intensifies for up to 20 washings. (continued on page 16)

WHAT ARE LOW-IMPACT DYES? Low-impact dyes are synthetic dyes with a high absorption rate, so less water is required in the rinsing process and less dye runs off in the water; hence the name, as they have less impact on the environment.

The dyes also usually don’t contain heavy metals (like chrome, copper and zinc), nor do they require toxic chemical mordants to set them. The low-impact dyes and rinse water are often recycled and used again.

Notable Names

These popular companies offer organic cotton fabrics; many more are shown in the resource listing at the end of the article.

BIRCH FABRICS, whose company motto is “treated with love, not pesticides,” offers four lines of organic cotton prints. Look for Marine, Circa 50, Circa 60 and Avalon (bikes).

CLOUD9 FABRICS offers several collections of whimsical cotton and flannel prints for quilting, decorating and garment use, including Nature Walk, and the Cut Out & Keep collection, part of the 2011 Designer Series.

DAISY JANIE FABRIC showcases Shades of Grey, contemporary prints on organic cotton.

ROBERT KAUFMAN’S ORGANIC greenSTYLE offers canvases, voiles, twills, poplin, wide sheeting, the Free to Grow collection of 25 florals and geometrics, and 15 colors of solids.

MICHAEL MILLER offers organic cotton fabrics in tan herringbone, tan yarn-dyed Michael Miller organic fabrics and trims.

VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

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free project 1

how-to-make a

braided bracelet WITH A FEW YARDS OF RAWHIDE LACING, CORD, OR BRAID AND SOME BUTTONS, CHARMS OR OLD JEWELRY, YOU CAN MAKE A FABULOUS SUMMERTIME (OR ANYTIME!) BRACELET. 28

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VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

Start with a basic braided bracelet (instructions on next page), then rummage through your jewelry box, button box and that old shoe box buried in the bottom closet for earrings, pins, charms and buttons to adorn these easyto-make accessories. It’s a great way to salvage broken pieces or a “single” earring that has lost its mate. Even old tokens or foreign coins can be used…just put your thinking cap on and let your imagination go wild. You can even make a wider cuff by join two braided pieces together—we used faceted round beads as a spacer on two of the bracelets on the right—you can use whatever you like. Buttons, beads and trinkets can be stitched on with needle and thread. Pins with working clasps are easy to add, and can be interchanged with other pins for a quick face lift.

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(continued on page 30)

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6 Here’s what we used: 1. 1/8" Cotton cording with JHB buttons.

2. 1/8" Rawhide lacing with JHB buttons.

3. 1/8" Jute cording with JHB buttons and faceted round beads.

4. 1/8" Jute cording with Vintage Italian raffia rosettes from Tinsel Trading.

5. President’s braid (flat gold braid for military garments) from Tinsel Trading; coral earring and vintage coral pin.

6. 1/8" Jute cording with vintage pin and faceted round beads.

7. 1/8" Cotton cording with vintage seashell pin.

8. Assorted charms, pins and tokens to use as embellishments.

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One Dress, Four Looks!

The perfect Little Blue Dress for summer goes with everything from a casual Earrings: Susi D. Jewelry Earrings: On U

Jacket: V8732

Bracelet: Fantasy Jewelry Box

Sunglasses: Ray Ban

Bag: V8741

Handbag: Elaine Turner at Designs by Stephene.com Shoe: Pour La Victoire at Designs by Stephene.com

Bracelets: Susi D. Jewelry Shoe: Diane von Furstenberg at Designs by Stephene.com

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VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

sweater and flats to jewels and heels. V8718, Misses' 6-20.

Bracelet: Calico Juno Designs Earrings: Kenneth Jay Lane

Earrings: Elizabeth Cole Jewelry

Necklace: Roberta Chiarella

Necklace: Roberts Chiarella Jacket: V8721

Clutch: Lauren Merkin at Designs by Stephene.com

Bracelets: Lisa Stewart at Designs by Stephene.com Handbag: Dooney & Bourke

Shoe: Tuleste Market

Shoe: Loeffler Randall at Designs by Stephene.com VOGUE PATTERNS June/July 2011

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sewing REVOLUTION M6354 P. 94

Join CLUB BMV for GREAT GIVEAWAYS!

DIANA RUPP has a decidedly DIY aesthetic. Taught to knit, sew and embroider by the age of eight, Diana can’t remember a time when she wasn’t obsessed with the world of fashion.

Diana founded and runs Make Workshop in New York City. The hot lower eastside craft school that teaches everything from how to use a sewing machine to DIANA RUPP has a decidedly spinning your own yarn.

DIY aesthetic. Taught to knit, sew and embroider by the age of eight, Diana can’t remember a time when she wasn obsessed with the world of fashion.

Diana founded and runs Make Worksh in New York City. The hot lower eastsid craft school that teaches everything from how to use a sewing machine to spinning your own yarn.

McCALL’S DIANA RUPP YOGA ACCESSORIES

GAME DAY TOTE

M6372 P. 1595

M6367 P. 1421

Introducing Tina Givens artist and designer delivers a unique game day tote.

VOGUE FABRICS STORE GIVEAWAY 5/23 - 5/30 8 Days, 8 Fabrics, 8 Chances to Win. Among the offerings from Vogue Fabrics Store are silk chiffon, printed silks, solid silk, silk knit, and printed rayon. Three yards each. Perfect for all your summer sewing. Go to www.clubbmv.com for details.

McCALL’S TINA GIVENS

McCALL’S JENNIFER LOKEY

W H AT ’ S

NEW?

There’s something NEW for everyone! McCall’s introduces designs by Diana Rupp, founder of Make Workshop in NYC, and author of Sew Everything Workshop, with sweet tops and a dress with cute details. Staying fit can be stylish with McCall’s new workout accessories by Jennifer Lokey. And if you’re a sports-watcher, go for Tina Givens game-day tote and seat cushions.

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VINTAGE VOGUE CIRCA 1956 V8729