Vogue Patterns Magazine December 2010/January 2011 Sampler

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D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 0 /J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 1

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fashion

features

52 DRESSED FOR SUCCESS Our newest collection from your favorite designers.

78 TOP THIS! Katherine Tilton’s uncommon clothes for everyday living.

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WHAT ARE YOU SEWING? Readers’ photos of their recent accomplishments.

60 WRAP STARS The perfect finishing touches for elegant evenings.

80 ARTFUL ACCESSORIES Marcy Tilton’s beautiful group of neckwarmers and gloves.

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SEWING THERAPY Do you suffer from Delusional Holiday Gift Sewing?

62 FINE LINES Chado Ralph Rucci’s amazing shirt with extraordinary stitching.

82 FINISHING TOUCHES Top off your wardrobe with a great scarf or hat.

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LUXURY FOR LESS: UPCYCLED FUR Kathryn Brenne shows you how to repurpose a thrift store coat.

64 RIGHT ANGLES Make a point in designs with an edgy attitude.

24 FOILED AGAIN! How to apply metallic foil finishes to your fashions and accessories.

66 COATS Hot looks for cool weather.

28 QUICK TIPS FOR STRETCH TULLE Sandra Betzina runs down the basics and a fun hem trick.

74 VINTAGE VOGUE Timeless treasures for the modern woman.

30 IRON CLAD A look at the important features on the newest pressing equipment.

76 WORKING ASSETS Executive silhouettes for a wardrobe that means business.

Shoes and bag : Donna Karan. Pages 38-39.

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36 TAKING CARE How to clean and care for special pieces long after the party’s over.

VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

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38 ONE SHIRT, FOUR LOOKS How to wear and accessoize the must-have shirt of the season.

42 FREE PROJECT 1: TRIM TREASURES How to make a necklace from leftover pieces of leather and trims.

44 FREE PROJECT 2: HOLIDAY SHAWL Putting a flirty spin on a basic shawl is a snap with Janome’s new Horizon machine.

46 FREE PROJECT 3: QUILTED PILLOW Add a sophisticated touch to any room with this easy-to-make pillow.

48 METAL URGES How to stitch metal accents to your fashions and crafts.

96 THREAD TALES In Stitches, a poem by Violet Nesdoly.

VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

in every issue 5

Editor’s Letter

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Mailbox

on the cover

10 Editor’s Choice 12 Web Watch 86 Guide to Patterns & Fabric Requirements 90 Book Review 95 Fabric & Accessory Guide Simply stunning. Tom and Linda Platt’s biascut dress, V1208, Misses’ 6-20. Earrings: Jose and Maria Barrera. Clutch bag: Clara Kasovina. Hair and Makeup: Joseph Boggess. Photographed by Brian Kraus.

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what are you sewing?

Have you made something you’re very proud of? Do the compliments keep coming?

If so, send us a picture and a short description and we’ll post it here as inspirations for your fellow readers. Don’t be shy, we want to see what you’re sewing!

My daughter Florence [and I] went into a vintage shop and found the most exquisite ’50s evening dress to use as inspiration for her school leavers ball at the beginning of July. The pattern (B4918) was quite straightforward to make. I loved doing the boning—it was so surprisingly easy and the inside of the dress was almost as pretty as the outside. When the dress was complete Florence and I both felt it could use the teeniest hint of sparkle so we went to Swarovski and purchased some tiny pale pink iron on crystals, which we dotted only on the net skirt.

—Jane Eastoe

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VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

I am new to Vogue Patterns magazine and have been delighted with every issue so far. Here I am wearing V1117 in green brocade silk from Oriental Silk Co. (found advertised in the magazine). I also made my husband’s tie.

—Polly Abbott

VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

When I retired, I decided to return to sewing and bought a new sewing machine, thinking to myself that I would not tackle anything too demanding. When my son and his girlfriend decided to get married I thought I might try to make a dress for myself. My husband brought me back some lovely silk from a business trip to Malaysia. I really fell for V1108

by Bellville Sassoon. It turned out really stunning and I am sending a photo of me at the wedding; I was very proud to be able to say that I had made it myself and feel it proves that however old you are, it is never too late to learn new skills!!

—Kathy Earlam

I just finished my tenth suit, using V2836. The material was a plaid, so the article in the Oct/ Nov ’09 issue really helped. I‘ve worn it twice, and I get the question “How in the world did you get the plaid to line up so well?“ To my non-sewing friends, I say, “Magic.“ But I tell my sewing friends to check out the magazine.

—Jeff Keith

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steam ahead Pressing matters, so don’t skimp when it comes to your iron.

by Daryl Brower

Two Cleaning Women by Edgar Degas

iron clad

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VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

A PROFESSIONAL LOOKING GARMENT, as any serious

sewer knows, relies as much on a quality iron as it does on a good sewing machine and solid sewing skills. Even the most finely honed construction techniques won’t count for much if you don’t have a good iron to smooth, shape and finesse your fabric—and your garment—with pressure, heat and steam.

If you’re truly serious about sewing (or about doing a proper ironing job on the contents of your closet) skip over the bargain-priced irons at discount retailers—they’re as light on features as they are in weight. Sure they’ll do for quick touch ups and simple craft projects, but they simply don’t have the weight or power required to give seams a proper steaming, shape curves or set a crisp crease. Most have limited (and often uneven) temperature settings, flimsy construction, and spotty steaming.

What the sewing room needs is an iron with some heft to it, plenty of steam power (essential for professional results), and a design that forces the iron, not your arms, to do the pressing work. Usually labeled as “professional” models (not to be confused with the gravity-fed steam irons of professional sewing studios) they’re pricier than their household counterparts, but the extra features and design details they posses are well worth the expenditure.

Keep in mind that the most expensive iron isn’t necessarily the best and that as with sewing machines, much of the decision making revolving around an iron purchase has to do with personal preference.

So how do you find the right iron? We’ve outlined a few key features, from absolute essentials to nice, but not necessary extras. These will help you start your search but the only real way to find the perfect iron is to actually use one. Ask sewing friends to lend you their favorites (keeping in mind that those who sew can be as fiercely loyal to iron brands as they are to sewing machine brands), see what’s available at your local sewing shop or get yourself to a sewing or craft show (the classrooms are usually outfitted with irons and manufacturers often have booths providing demos). If you can’t get your hands on the actual iron you’re interested in, head online for consumer reviews, videos and other information to help you make an informed choice. The right iron is out there, and when you find it, your sewing will be that much better for the effort.

What to Look For Weight and comfort are key considerations for any iron. The iron shouldn’t be so heavy that it’s awkward to lift, but it should have enough weight to flatten fabric without too much effort on your part. Look for a handle with a comfortable grip (cork and silicone handles keep cool and are often easier on the hands) and a design that makes the iron easy to maneuver.

If there’s a display model available, pick it up and try out basic ironing moves on a flat surface. You’ll spend a good deal of time with the iron in your hands, so if it feels awkward or uncomfortable, consider a different model. The iron should sit securely on the heel rest when positioned upright—you don’t want to worry about it tipping over or crashing to the floor every time you head back to your sewing machine. A long cord that swivels will make it easier to move around the ironing board.

Thanks to patented Auto-Lift technology, Oliso Smart Irons ($99.99-$169.99) eliminate the need for a (continued on page 32)

Oliso

VOGUE PATTERNS December 2010/January 2011

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One Shirt, Four Looks: Day, night, work, play or party...it's all about the accessories!

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Weekend Getaway

Working Girl

Cardigan: J Crew. Pants: J Brand. Shoulder bag: V8680.

Shoes: 9 West. Earrings: Alexia Crawford. Bangle bracelet: Kenneth Jay Lane. Cuff bracelet: Evocateur at Supplements, New York. Necklace, scarf and belt: flea market finds.

Vest: J Crew. Skirt: V2885, Misses’ 6-22. Belt: Ralph Lauren. Shoes: Calvin Klein. Handbag: Donna Karan.

Necklace: Lia Sophia. Earrings: Kenneth Jay Lane.

This is the Must-Have shirt of the season. Custom Fit, V8689.

Open Mic Night

Girls Night Out

Fur Vest: Adrienne Landau. Jeans: 7 For All Mankind.

Boots: Donna Karan. Bag: Imoshian at Etcetera Accessories.

Belt: Evocateur at Supplements, New York. Sunglasses: Ray Ban. Earrings and bracelet: Ishayra.

Skirt: V8363. Earrings: Kenneth Jay Lane. Necklace: Lia Sophia.

Bag: Sasha. Belt: Blue Elegance at Etcetera Accessories. Cuff: Evocateur at Supplements, New York. Shoes: Donna Karan.

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Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS www.voguepatterns.com

FREE STYLE: AN ARTFUL MIX OF RICH WOOLS AND SCALLOPEDGE DETAILS TAKE THIS COAT FROM CRAFTY TO COUTURE.

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Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS

If fabrics make your heart race, this is the coat for you.

KOOS VAN DEN AKKER mixes plaid, pinstripe, paisley, jacquard and checks for outwear that’s anything but ordinary.

Follow his lead and hit the remnants table or clean out your stash of leftovers. V1213, Misses’ 6-20. Handbag: Dooney & Bourke. Earrings: Echo of the Dreamer.

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