Portland Alpine Fest 2015 Guide

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Nov. 17–22

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2015

CLINICS | SPEAKER SERIES | SEMINARS |THE SUMMIT PORTLAND ICE COMP | CELEBRATION OF TRAILS

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ow in its 3rd year, the Portland Alpine Fest truly is for everyone who loves the mountains. This week-long celebration of mountain recreation offers a variety of opportunities, including: clinics & seminars with pro-athletes, a speaker series, the 10th Annual Portland Ice Comp, the new Celebration of Trails, and, the biggest event of the week, The Summit!

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Festival schedule Summit details Portland Ice Comp details Athlete information Sponsor information Silent auction donor information

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▶▶ Indoor Ice Climbing Skillbuilders

▶▶ Speaker Series: Blue Collar Beatdown with John Frieh

▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Ultra Running with Krissy Moehl ▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Slackline with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Speaker Series: Nepal Reflections with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Speaker Series: Blurred Lines with Christof Teuscher

▶▶ Clinic: Fast Packing & The Art of Efficient Movement with Diboun, Donnelly, and McBride ▶▶ Clinic: Intermediate/ Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing with John Frieh ▶▶ Clinic: Crack Climbing with Scott Adamson ▶▶ Seminar: Emergency Beacons with Rare Earth Adventures ▶▶ Seminar: Training for Alpine Climbing with John Frieh ▶▶ Seminar: Risk vs. Reward & The Intrapersonal Relationship with Fear with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Speaker Series: Zion Ice with Scott Adamson

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scott adamson on two cents m7 wi5+ provo canyon, ut Photo ©Nathan Smith - www.pullphotography.com

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▶▶ Clinic: High Altitude/Extreme Photography with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing with Scott Adamson ▶▶ Clinic: Rock Climbing Techniques for Women with Dawn Glanc ▶▶ Clinic: Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing with John Frieh ▶▶ Clinic: Crack Climbing with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Seminar: Memoir Writing Workshop with Joe Fox ▶▶ Speaker Series: Iceland: A Climber’s Saga with Dawn Glanc (& Fashion Show)

▶▶ 10th Annual Portland Ice Comp A dry-tooling competition at the newly-renovated Portland Rock Gym ▶▶ Celebration of Trails A fun run in Forest Park–a day of camaraderie and trails. ▶▶ The Summit: An Evening with Jim Whittaker & Alex Honnold The biggest night of the festival at the Oregon Convention Center with delicious food, social time, a silent auction, vendor fair, and presentations from our two keynote speakers. Tickets: $45 until Nov. 15 (includes food) Week of event: $50

SATURDAY, NOV. 21st | 10:00a-4:00p

Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org SUMMIT MENU Fall Quinoa Vegetable Salad Garbanzo beans, roasted root vegetables, balsamic onions

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he penultimate event of the Portland Alpine Fest, this evening will be one to remember. Our keynote speakers are Jim Whittaker, first American to summit Mt. Everest, and Alex Honnold, 2014 winner of the Piolet d’Or for the Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell.

Nov. 21

You’ll enjoy presentations by these two speakers, along with delicious food, a vendor fair, a HUGE silent auction, social time, and an awards presentation.

The PAFterparty will follow The Summit, starting at 10:30 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company.

Summit ticketholders may attend.

Pulled Pork Slider Station Al Dente Tri-colored tortellini with fresh tomato, asparagus, butter Penne Bolognese farfalle with pesto cream sauce and pine nuts, along with assorted breads Masher Bar Creamy mashed potatoes, au jus, cheese, diced broccoli, sautéed mushrooms, crisp bacon Antipasto Grilled, marinated vegetables, imported meats and cheeses, rosemary-infused olive oil, balsamic vinegar, parmesan cheese, and grilled focaccia bread

mountaineering rock climbing hiking ice climbing ski mountaineering expeditions

mazamas.org | 503-227-234

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ant to test out your ice climbing skills? It’s that time of year again … Time to go head to head with some of the best climbers in the area. You never know who might come out on top! Climbing at the newly renovated Portland Rock Gym, great prizes, vendors … does it get any better than that? We hope to see you there!

Nov. 21

athletes

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lex Honnold is a world-class American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls.

He jumped into the mountaineering world with both feet when, with Tommy Caldwell, he completed the first ascent of the “Fitz Traverse,” climbing across the iconic ridgeline of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia (and learned to use crampons along the way).

Alex has been climbing since he was 11 years old when parents introduced him to the local climbing gym. He took to the sport immediately and began spending all of his time at the gym. He burst onto the scene in the fall of 2007, drawing attention from the press for his audacious one-day free solo link-up of The Rostrum followed by Astroman - two demanding multi-pitch Yosemite 5.11+ routes.

In his recently published book, Alone on the Wall, Honnold recounts the seven most astonishing climbing achievements so far in his meteoric and still-evolving career. He narrates the drama of each climb, along with reflective passages that illuminate the inner workings of his highly perceptive and discerning mind. We share in the jitters and excitements he feels waking in his van (where he lives full time) before a climb; we see him self-criticize in his climbing journal (a veritable bible for students of the sport); and we learn his secrets to managing fear—his most enviable talent. Veteran climber and awardwinning author David Roberts writes part of each chapter in his own voice, and he calls on other climbers and the sport’s storied past to put Alex’s tremendous accomplishments in perspective.

PHOTO: JIMMY CHIN

ALEX IS SPEAKING AT THE SUMMIT ON NOV. 21.

athletes

JIM IS SPEAKING AT THE SUMMIT ON NOV. 21.

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im Whittaker, internationally renowned mountaineer, adventurer and environmentalist, is best known as the first American to summit Mt. Everest, on May 1, 1963. A visionary business and community leader, Jim was the first full-time employee of one of the country’s largest outdoor retailers, Recreational Equipment, Inc. – REI – retiring as its President and CEO after 25 years with the company.

He has led numerous, high-profile climbing expeditions, including the first ascent of Mt. Kennedy (with Senator Robert Kennedy) in the Canadian Yukon in 1965, the first American ascent of K2 in 1978, and the spectacularly successful Mt. Everest International Peace Climb in 1990. He is an accomplished blue-water sailor, having twice skippered his own boats on the 2,400-mile Victoria-to-Maui International Yacht Race.

He and his wife Dianne Roberts, along with their two sons, made a four-year, 20,000-mile Pacific sailing journey to Australia and back to their home in Port Townsend, Washington, aboard their 54-foot steel ketch, Impossible. Jim is the author of the best-selling, awardwinning memoir, A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond.

PICARIDIN GEAR SAFE INSECT REPELLENT

PHOTO: DIANNE ROBERTS

Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org

PHOTO: JEREMIAH WATT

athletes

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cott Adamson is a 34-year old climber based out of an old Toyota somewhere in the hills of Utah. Scott was introduced to climbing at the age of 8, but didn’t get hooked until he got his driver’s license and had more freedom at 16.

Raised in the foothills of the Wasatch range (which he calls the choss-atch range) Scott was forced to climb on less than perfect rock. Frustrating at times, it would be the key to him moving fast in the mountains with less than desirable gear. In those chossy hills Scott made over 100 first ascents of ice and mixed routes, including Santeria, the hardest route in Utah (it’s still awaiting a second ascent).

Living such a short distance from the desert, Scott developed an affinity for the big walls of Zion. His relationship with Zion began on the easier aid routes, and morphed into a love of the harder objectives such as the classic Moonlight Buttress (in which he onsighted all of the crux pitches). On a mission to find frozen waterfalls on those same sandstone walls, he has become one of the pioneers of ice climbing in Zion.

Scott is best known for two cutting-edge ascents on the Mooses Tooth in Alaska, NWS and Terror. His true passion lies in alpine and ice ascents, yet he is still very keen on trad climbing and loves to dip into sport climbing and bouldering every once and a while.

Scott’s Festival Schedule Nov. 18: (PM) Clinic: Crack Climbing Nov. 19: (AM) Clinic: Crack Cimbing Nov. 19: (PM) Speaker Series—Zion Ice: Purdy Damn Western Nov. 20: (AM) Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing

Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org

athletes

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ohn Frieh grew up idolizing climbers like Steve House and Mark Twight.

John quickly learned in order to model himself after their climbing style not only would he need to train; he would need to train intelligently in order to best utilize his limited time given his other responsibilities as a father and manager at Intel.

John has worked closely with Mark Twight and Gym Jones since 2009; he was the very first Fully Certified Gym Jones Instructor in 2012. By applying this training knowledge John has accumulate 10 First Ascents in Alaska since 2009 including two on Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge, one on Mount Bradley, and the First Winter Ascent of the French Ridge of Mount Huntington among others.

As a coach John has worked with a myriad of individuals since 2007; most recently he trained Kyle Dempster as he prepared for an attempt on Ogre II in the Karakoram.

John is an Ambassador for Arc’teryx, Petzl, and Mountain Gear.

John’s Festival Schedule: Nov. 17: Speaker Series—Blue Collar Beatdown Nov. 18: (AM) Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing Nov. 19: (AM) Clinic: Intermediate/Advanced Climbing Nov. 19: (PM): Seminar: Training for Alpine Climbing—A Functional Approach to Meeting your Goals Nov. 20 (PM): Clinic: Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing 605 NW 23RD AVENUE, PORTLAND

PHOTO: FRED MARMSATER

athletes

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awn Glanc, pronounced “Glance,” is a sponsored athlete and a professional climbing guide. Dawn was born and raised in Brunswick, Ohio and currently lives in Ouray, Colorado. Dawn is an American Mountain Guide certified Rock and Alpine Guide and is a co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing.

Dawn has a passion for climbing and focuses on the disciplines of rock, ice and mixed climbing. Dawn has been climbing both rock and ice since 1996. During that time she has climbed all over the world and has completed multiple first ascents—ice lines in Cody, Wyoming and ice and mixed lines in Iceland. In December 2013 Dawn became the first woman in the United States to climb M11. Her sponsors include Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Bluewater Ropes and Julbo Eyewear.

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Nov. 18 (PM): Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing Nov. 19 (PM) Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing Nov. 20 (AM): Rock Climbing Techniques for Women (women only) Nov. 20 (PM): Speaker Series—Iceland: A Climber’s Saga Nov. 20 (PM): Fashion Show Nov. 21 (AM): Portland Ice Comp Nov. 21 (PM): The Summit­—Dawn will be signing posters at the Mountain Hardwear booth

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Dawn’s Festival Schedule

Mountain Hardwear

Offer may not be applied to prior purchases, combined with any other offer, used online, at in-store kiosks or at any other store, redeemed by employees, or applied to gift card purchases or shipping charges. Mountain Hardwear reserves the right to change or cancel this offer at any time. Void if assigned, transferred, or reproduced, and where prohibited, restricted or taxed. Valid from 11/17/2015 through 12/17/2015. ©2015 Mountain Hardwear, Inc. All rights reserved

PHOTO: BRIAN MASBAUGH

athletes Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org

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cott Rogers is an adventure photographer and athlete currently residing in Moab, Utah. His specialties include motion and still photography of rock climbing, slacklining, BASE jumping and high altitude expedition climbing.

He has been climbing and slacklining for 12 years, skydiving and BASE jumping for 8 years, and paragliding for over 5 years. Scott is a strong player in the outdoor industry with his extreme sports photography. He has been featured as a contributing photographer for numerous publication, including the New York Times and Outside magazine. In 2013, his work received a Sports Emmy Nomination for “Best Camerawork.”

Scott’s Festival Schedule: Nov. 18: (AM) Clinic: Intro to Slacklining Nov. 18: (PM) Speaker Series—Nepal Reflections Nov. 19: (PM) Clinic: Intro to Aid Climbing Nov. 19: (PM) Seminar: Risk vs. Reward & The Intrapersonal Relationship with Fear Nov. 20: (AM) Clinic: High Altitude/Extreme Cold Photography Nov. 20: (PM) Clinic: Crack Climbing

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Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org

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azamas ASI Committee will host a series of skillbuilders prior to the Portland Alpine Festival for climbers of all abilities to practice ice climbing and dry tooling technique on the foam ice walls and rock walls in the MMC. Work on the basics, efficiency, and advanced balance and strength moves while on top rope with feedback from the ASI instructors. This is a great chance for new climbers to get a feel for ice and mixed climbing, or for more experienced climbers to get ready for the Portland Ice Comp and the winter climbing season!

Nov. 14 & 15

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n our first Portland Alpine Fest photo contest we received 232 photos.

From mountain vistas to desert climbing scenes to people enjoying the outdoors, there was a little bit of everything. Our judges are working on winnowing these 232 submissions to 24 semi-finalists. You will have the opportunity to vote for your favorite at Base Camp Brewing Company from Nov. 16–20. Stop in for some food, drinks, and make sure to vote. We’ll announce the judges top three picks, plus the audience choice award at The Summit on the evening of Nov. 21.

Nov. 16–20

Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org Grivel Icebreaker John Creager John Daby John Leary Julbo Justin Colquhoun Karin Mullendorf Karl Helser Kerry Loehr La Sportiva Laurelhurst Family Clinic Leki Lompoc Mazama Lodge Metaamo Studio Metolius Monkii Bars Montbell Mountain Hardwear Mountain Khakis Mountaineers Books Nicole Wasko Photography Noble Rot Nora Jameson NW Alpine Olivine Landscaping Ouray Ice Festival Paul Gerald Paul Glasser Photography Petzl

Plywerk Portland Cider Company Portland Rock Gym Rab Rare Earth Adventures Regis Krug REI Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider Rock & Ice Magazine Rock&Ice Magazine Ryan Maher Photography Salomon Sawyer Skin Care by Greer Slackline Industries SPOT Sterling Rope Teresa Redman Territory Run Co. The Circuit The Clymb The Mountain Shop The North Face Tracy Andrews Acupuncture Trail Runner Magazine TrailButter Trailhead Coffee Roasters Vaqas Malik Woop!Wear Y&Y Belay Glasses Yamhill Valley Vineyards

The generosity of our numerous donors helped to contribute to the success of this event. Thank you.

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Aaron Mulkey Adidas Outdoor Adventure Medial Kits Alpinist Magazine Animal Athletics Arc’Teryx Portland Azure Olson Backcountry Magazine Backpacker’s Pantry Benjamin Grandy CAMP Cascade Paragliding Club Cassandra Kail, LMT Cilo Gear ClubSport Crimp Chimps CRKT Denise Birchfield – Custom Quilts & Quilt Products Double Mountain Brewery Doug Couch & Lis Cooper Dry Ice Tools Edelweiss Embark Adventures Evolution Healthcare & Fitness Fire on the Mountain Firn Line Design Go Beyond Racing Good To-Go Gourmet Backpacking Food

MOUNTAIN PERFORMANCE EYEWEAR The Up and Downhill Goggle

Visit julbo.com for more information.

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