2019 Portland Alpine Festival Guide

11/11 – 11/17 2019

Portland Alpine Festival

Clinics Seminars Speaker Series The Summit:

An Evening with Lynn Hill P R E S E N T E D BY

7th Annual

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST

MOUNTAINS.

COMMUNITY.

presented by Grivel & hosted by the Mazamas

INSPIRATION. CHALLENGE.

Join us for 6 days of inspiration, learning, demos, and more as you immerse yourself in the world of all things alpine. There’s ice climbing, rock climbing, crevasse rescue, and much more. You’ll get the opportunity to hear from and learn from some of our local Pacific Northwest athletes, as well as athletes making waves on the national and international scene.

PAF19 includes clinics, seminars, speakers, the Portland Ice Comp, and The Summit: An Evening with Lynn Hill. Get all the details and ticket information at portlandalpinefest.org.

Get TICKETS & REGISTER for clinics:

portlandalpinefest.org

FESTIVAL SCHEDULE MONDAY, NOV. 11 Mountain As Mentor: An Uncensored Look at Tragedy: 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC with Ken Wylie (Speaker)

TUESDAY, NOV. 12 Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at the MMC with Ken Wylie (Clinic) Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: Queer: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Julz Holder (Clinic) When Mountain Tragedy Touches You: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Ken Wylie (Seminar) An Evening with NWAC: 7–9:30 p.m. at the Mountain Shop with NWAC (Speaker)

WEDNESDAY, NOV. 13

Expedition Unknown: 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC with Katie Mills (Speaker)

THURSDAY, NOV. 14 Steep Snow Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at MMC with Paul Taylor (Clinic) Crack Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at PG with John Barkhausen (Clinic) Good Enough Anchors: 8–11 a.m. at The Source with Jeff Shapiro (Clinic) Intermediate/Advanced Ice/ Mixed Climbing: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Ari Novak (Clinic) Movement Efficiency: Rock: NOON–3 p.m. at The Source with Jeff Shapiro (Clinic)

Seminar: Progression Towards Fast & Light: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Brett Merlin (Seminar) Intro to Ice/Mixed: 6–9 p.m. at the MMC with Ken Wylie (Clinic)

Better Crack Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with Jeff Shapiro (Clinic)

Himalayan Ice: Adventurers in India’s Most Remote Valley: 7–9:30 p.m. at Patagonia Portland with Ari Novak (Speaker)

Multi-Pitch Efficiency: 1–4 p.m. at PG with John Barkhausen (Clinic)

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Steep Snow Climbing: 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with Paul Taylor (Clinic)

Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Women): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC with Julz Holder (Clinic)

Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Jeff Shapiro (Clinic)

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Full festival info and tickets at portlandalpinefest.org

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FRIDAY, NOV. 15 Movement Efficiency: Women: 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with Molly Mitchell (Clinic) Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at MMC with Ari Novak (Clinic) Multi-Pitch Efficiency: 8–11 a.m. at The Source with Jeff Shapiro (Clinic) International Expedition Planning: 1–4 p.m. at MMC with Graham Williams & Ari Novak (Seminar) Crevasse Rescue: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Jason Martin (Clinic) Women’s Techniques: 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with Molly Mitchell (Clinic) Portland Ice Comp: 6–10 p.m. at Planet Granite Portland

High Angle Rescue: 12:30–3:30 p.m. at the MMC with Mick Pearson (Clinic) Ice Anchors: 12:30–3:30 p.m. at the MMC with Ari Novak (Seminar) Women’s Techniques: 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with Molly Mitchell (Clinic) The Summit: An Evening with Lynn Hill: 5:30–10 p.m. at The Redd PAFterparty: 10:30 p.m.–1 a.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company

SUNDAY, NOV. 17 Lead Climbing: 9 a.m.–Noon at The Source with John Barkhausen (Clinic) Intermediate/Advanced Ice/ Mixed: 9 a.m.–Noon at the MMC with Ari Novak (Clinic)

SATURDAY, NOV. 16

Multi-Pitch Efficiency: 9 a.m.–Noon at Planet Granite with Mick Pearson (Clinic)

Lead Climbing: 8–11 a.m. at The Source with John Barkhausen (Clinic)

Intro to Plus Sized Rock Climbing: Women: 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with Megan Banker (Clinic)

Steep Snow Climbing: 9 a.m.–Noon at the MMC with Paul Taylor (Clinic)

Intro to Ice: 1–4 p.m. at the MMC with Ari Novak (Clinic)

White Out Navigation Techniques: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. at the MMC with Jason Martin (Seminar)

Full festival info and tickets at portlandalpinefest.org

MARTIN AND FLORIAN RIEGLER CLIMBING WI6+ IN THE BLETTERBACH CANYON NEAR BOZEN, SOUTH TYROL, ITALY - PH. MICHAEL MAILI

FESTIVAL SCHEDULE

Perfect Your Projecting Skills: 9 a.m.–Noon at Planet Granite with Molly Mitchell (Clinic)

ALPINIST TECH Designed for technical climbing at the highest level, the Alpinist Tech is also our lightest technical ice crampon making it a great choice for top level alpinism. www.camp-usa.com

THE SUMMIT An Evening with Lynn Hill

The Summit is the night where our mountain community comes together to celebrate everything we love about the outdoors. For 2019 the one and only climbing legend Lynn Hill will be in attendance to share her story, Ascending Women. Get decked out in your finest non-climbing gear (no helmets!), and head on out to the newly opened Redd on Salmon Street, for an evening with your friends for fun, food, and tales of inspiration and adventure.

There will be a bucketed raffle, where you get to choose the items you hope to take home with you! Raffle items will include hard goods such as ice axes, trekking poles, stoves, along with soft goods such as jackets, boots, packs, and base layers. We’ll also bring back the popular Golden Ticket raffle which features BIG prizes and a limited number of entries.

Heavy hors d’oeuvres and non-alcoholic beverages are included in your ticket.

There are menu items to meet the needs of gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan attendees.

Date: Saturday, Nov. 16 Time: 5:30–10 p.m.

Location: The Redd East (831 SE Salmon St, Portland, OR 97214)

Evening Timeline 5:30 p.m.: Food, vendors, nonprofit partners, raffle opportunities, social time, games, and more.

8 p.m.: Program 9:30 p.m.: Social time, raffle prize winners announced, and more.

Tickets portlandalpinefest.org

10 p.m.: Program concludes—head over to Base Camp Brewing Company for the PAFterparty!

Portland Alpine Festival

Portland Ice Comp

Dry Tool Competition November 15, 6 – 10 p.m.

Planet Granite

For more info and tickets, go to

portlandalpinefest.org

Join us at Planet Granite for the 14th Annual Portland Ice Comp! Spectate and cheer on the competitors, get the inside scoop on gear, chat with friends, and enter to win amazing raffle prizes!

This event is a fundraiser for Friends of Hyalite. With your help, we can help plow the road at Hyalite Canyon to keep the climbing available for all! The event will include a raffle, prizes, drinks & snacks, and amazing climbing. A food cart onsite so you’ll be able to keep fueled while enjoying the comp!

The Portland Alpine Fest would not be possible without our incredible sponsors and partners.

Thank you!

Speaker Series Mountain as Mentor: An Uncensored Look at Tragedy

Our travels through the mountains are rich with what we need to learn to keep safe on future adventures.

Events, non-events and near misses can be harvested for the information that can bolster our decisionmaking skills. Not paying attention to this information, resulted in deep consequence for Ken Wylie. Ken presents the lessons he missed that led to his role in the Durrand Glacier Avalanche tragedy in 2003 in this uncensored look at a tragedy and the maturation process that resulted.

Going DEEP: An Evening with NWAC TUESDAY, NOV. 12, 7–9:30 P.M. AT THE MOUNTAIN SHOP

What’s the difference between high and considerable avalanche ratings?

How can I apply the NWAC forecast to the slope I want to ski? How long should I wait after a storm before I ski? If you’ve ever asked yourself these questions—or any others about avalanches—come join us for an evening with our forecasters, field observers, and staff to hear how it all works.

Expedition Unknown WEDNESDAY, NOV. 13, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER

In the spirit of true exploration, Katie Mills, Nick Pappas, and Wojtek and Amy Pagacz flew into an unknown valley in the Nahanni National Park Reserve of the Northwest Territories of Canada with no photos, no maps, and no information other than a YouTube video flyover correlated to Google Earth. The weather was terrible, the rock was even worse, but despite the adversity, some hard-won first ascents were had. Come hear and see about the mountains they did and didn’t climb in the surreal incredible valley they were the first to explore. This expedition was funded by the 2018 Mazamas Bob Wilson Grant.

Himalayan Ice: Adventures in India’s Most Remote Valleys THURSDAY, NOV. 14, 7–9:30 P.M. AT PATAGONIA PORTLAND

In December 2018, alpinists Ari Novak and Karsten Delap set out for India to explore one of the most remote valleys in the Indian Himalaya with local Indian climber Karn Kowshik. From their journey to the valley along the most treacherous road on earth to walking amongst snow leopards, the expedition was anything but expected.

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MONDAY, NOV. 11, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER

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Lynn HILL A natural athlete, Lynn Hill has competed as a gymnast and runners as well as in climbing. She first roped up at the age of 14 and excelled immediately. By the late 1970s she was climbing near the top standards of the day. In 1979, she was the first woman to climb a route of the grade 5.12d. She continued to climb routes at the highest standards of difficulty over the years to follow.

Hill discovered competition climbing during a visit to France in 1986. She quickly moved into the top ranks and won more than 30 international competitions, LYNN’S SCHEDULE including five times at the Arco Rock The Summit: Sat, Nov. 16 Master—the Wimbledon of competitive from 5:30–10 p.m. at The climbing. Hill has also climbed some of Redd East the hardest outdoor routes in the world, succeeding on a 5.14a route in France called Masse Critique in 1991, the first 5.14 completed by a woman. In 1992, Lynn was also the first woman to make an on sight ascent of a climb rated 5.13b.

Hill possesses a combination of power, grace, and endurance that has enabled her to tackle some of the most difficult challenges in the world of climbing. In 1992, she speed climbed The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite’s most famous aid route, in just over 8 hours. The following year, she returned to Yosemite to make the first free ascent, encountering two pitches of 5.13 and several 5.12 pitches. A year late, she topped that feat with the first one-day free ascent of The Nose, leading every one of The Nose’s 33 pitches in 23 hours. The feat will long stand among the world’s great rock climbing accomplishments.

Among America’s best-known climbers, Hill has been a guest at the White House and has been featured on television and in many newspaper and magazine articles. She has produce a film about her all free ascent of The Nose and an autobiography about her life as a climber. Her book is titled, Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World (published by W.W. Norton).

Lynn currently lives in Boulder, Colorado where she balances her time between climbing, guiding, skiing, speaking, and traveling to cool places around the world and raising her son, Owen Merced Lynch.

Ari Novak Ari Novak is an ice climber and mountaineer for La Sportiva, Petzl, and Deuter based out of Bozeman Montana. Novak’s love of ice and rock climbing has led him to establish first ascents around the country and around the world. In 2019 Novak and his team established the hardest water ice line in the Indian Himalayan “Snow Leopard” HW7 150m. In Montana, Novak established “White Tara” along with Conrad Anker who describes the route as “one of the best rock routes in the State” In Alaska, Novak has explored some of the most remote reaches of the Matanuska glacier as featured in National Geographic. Novak’s number one passion is sharing climbing through teaching ice climbing technique to enable others to enjoy the mountains as safely as possible. Novak is a regular instructor at the Ouray and Michigan Ice Festival. In addition to ice climbing Ari enjoys ski mountaineering and all things winter.

ARI’S SCHEDULE Intermediate/Advanced Ice/ Mixed Climbing: Thu., Nov. 14 from 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) Himalayan Ice: Adventurers in India’s Most Remote Valley: Thu., Nov. 14 from 7–9:30 p.m. at Patagonia Portland Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Fri., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) International Expedition Planning: Fri., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) Ice Anchors: Sat., Nov. 16 from 12:30–3:30 p.m. the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) Intermediate/Advanced Ice/ Mixed Climbing: Sun., Nov. 17 from 9 a.m.–Noon the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) Intro to Ice: Sun., Nov. 17 from 1–4 p.m. the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC)

Molly MITCHELL

MOLLY’S SCHEDULE Movement Efficiency: Women: Fri., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite Women’s Techniques: Fri., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite Perfect Your Projecting Skills: Sat., Nov. 16 from 9 a.m.–Noon at Planet Granite Women’s Techniques: Sat., Nov. 16 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite

Molly Mitchell has been climbing for 10 years and is based out of Boulder, CO. She mostly focuses in the areas of sport climbing and single-pitch trad. Along with achieving ascents up to 5.14 sport and trad, she has also contributed her own trad First Ascents. She also is very passionate about coaching, and currently coaches the youth team at Team ABC Boulder. Through it all she has been very open about the fact that she has an anxiety disorder, and climbing has helped her find purpose and passion.

She has learned so much about the process of progressing in climbing and the mental, physical, and emotional aspects of success and failure. She takes on every new challenge with all that she’s learned from years of training and commitment. And she loves sharing what she’s learned with others who want to try new things and progress as well. Her favorite thing about climbing is giving back to others, and that’s why she’s happy to share all her knowledge with people of all ages and abilities—in order to help them with their own specific journeys in climbing.

Jeff SHAPIRO Jeff Shapiro is a professional climber and pilot who has devoted his life to the mountains. Whether climbing on rock, ice, or flying above them, he strives for “full value adventure and self exploration.” Over the 30 years of his climbing related life, he finds the greatest rewards in focusing earned skill-sets to wards attempting new routes in the greater ranges. A new route on the NW face of Ri Wu Qie Feng in the Daxue Shan range of western China and, the first ascent of the south face of Brammah II in the Kashmir Himalaya are two recent highlights.

Jeff is also a world class hang glider pilot, wing suit BASE jumper and a professional paraglider pilot and a father.

When he’s not climbing or flying, he’s a philanthropist, conservationist and a master falconer. Jeff currently lives and trains in Montana with his 14 year old daughter and his wife of 23 years whom he recognizes as “the most tolerant woman in the universe.”

JEFF’S SCHEDULE Better Crack Climbing: Wed., Nov. 13 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: Wed., Nov. 13 from 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Good Enough Anchors: Thu., Nov. 14 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source (Vancouver) Movement Efficiency: Rock: Thu., Nov. 14 from NOON–3 p.m. at The Source (Vancouver) Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Fri., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source (Vancouver)

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

Ken Wylie is an IFMGA guide, educator and author. His skill set ranges between the first ice climbing enchainment of Terminator, Replicant and Sea of Vapours in the Canadian Rockies to developing adventure programs to help the military veterans and homeless in his community. He has been on faculty at the University of Calgary, Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University in adventure-based academic programs.

KEN’S SCHEDULE Mountain As Mentor: An Uncensored Look at Tragedy: Monday, 11/11 from 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) When Mountain Tragedy Touches You: Tue., Nov. 12 from 1–4 p.m. at the MMC Intro to Ice/Mixed : Tue., Nov. 12 from 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Intro to Ice/Mixed: Thu., Nov. 14 from 6–9 p.m. at the MMC

Through the skills of ski touring, rock climbing and mountaineering Ken pays credence to the human lessons along the way, helping his clients gain selfknowledge and leadership efficacy.

Ken has developed the concept of “Adventure Literacy” based on the idea that the mountains are always presenting information to us through the process of adventure. He teaches his clients how to metabolize adventure events in order to harvest experience.

Ken is the author of “Buried” 2014, which is about his path navigating through mountain tragedy.

Ken’s ice climbing career began in 1983 with straight shaft tools. He passionately pursued the craft for twenty-five years and has numerous firsts to his credit; Including the first enchainment of Terminator, Replicant and Sea of Vapours back in 1997. Most importantly however, he understands the inside game of ice climbing, which includes how to thrive by staying focused and aware in a profoundly unstable arena.

Paul TAYLOR Paul Taylor is a Portland based climbing and mountaineering guide. He is an NWAC Instructor and the Oregon Regional Ambassador. He currently works as a lead guide for a Seattle based guide service, Kaf Adventures. Over the course of his 17-year career, he has worked as an instructor, facilitator, and guide for numerous outdoor education companies and guide services across the United States. His deep love of wild places and a passion for teaching have been a driving force in his professional and personal pursuits. His early adventures were focused on primitive living and survival skills and long distance hiking, where he has racked up over 10,000 miles of trail-time, including thru-hikes of the AT, PCT, and many other trails. He is an EMT-B, WFR, LNT Master Educator, and has an AIARE Pro 1 avalanche certification. Additionally, he is continuing to pursue his AMGA certifications. When he’s not teaching or working, he enjoys trail running, mountaineering, cooking, ice climbing, reading, and traveling with his wife and daughters.

ALPINE EXPERT GTX

Ken WYLIE

www.lowaboots.com

PAUL’S SCHEDULE An Evening with NWAC: Tue., Nov. 12 from 7–9:30 p.m. at the Mountain Shop Steep Snow Climbing: Thu., Nov. 14 from 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) Steep Snow Climbing: Thu., Nov. 14 from 1–4 p.m. at PG. (Paul Taylor) Steep Snow Climbing: Sat., Nov. 16 from 9 a.m.–Noon at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC)

Megan BANKER

MEGAN’S SCHEDULE Intro to Plus Sized Rock Climbing: Women: Sun., Nov. 17 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite

Megan Banker is a plus-size rock and mountain climber living in Portland, OR. Her climbing career began in Spring 2017 after taking a beginning mountaineering course with the Mazamas. Following the 8 week course, she fell in love with climbing and began spending as much time as possible gaining experience and education with her partner Andy. Megan was featured in an Outside Magazine online article this year focusing on Plus-Size Adventurers who are pushing the boundaries and crushing stereotypes about who belongs in the outdoors. She is on a mission to introduce climbing to diverse bodies and began hosting Plus Size Rock Climbing Meetups at the indoor gyms in the Portland area this summer. When she’s not living her best life outdoors, she is busy serving as the owner and chiropractor at Verve Lifestyle Center in NW Portland.

John BARKHAUSEN John is a guide and outdoor educator based here in Portland. He’s a true multi-discipline guide, having lead trips sea kayaking, rafting, hiking, backpacking, skiing, rock, climbing, mountaineering, and even snow shoeing.

Currently, he focuses on teaching skills to aspiring outdoors people, including backcountry skiing and avalanche safety, mountaineering and crevasse rescue, and rock climbing skills. He is also the Portland Program Director for Kaf Adventures, where he runs their Mt. Hood Climbing program. When he’s not outdoors, he is either building something or hanging out with his wife and new baby.

JOHN’S SCHEDULE Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Wed., Nov. 13 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite Crack Climbing: Thu., Nov. 14 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite Lead Climbing: Sat., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source (Vancouver) Lead Climbing: Sun., Nov. 17 from 9 a.m.–Noon at The Source (Vancouver)

Julz HOLDER

Intro to Ice/Mixed: Queer: Tue., Nov. 12 from 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Women): Wed., Nov. 13 from 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

DREW SMITH © 2019 Patagonia, Inc.

JULZ’S SCHEDULE

From the heart of Atlanta, Georgia, Julie Ann first discovered her passion for the outdoors in 2010, scaling the sandstone cliffs of the Southeastern U.S. She has since sharpened her climbing and instructing skills on rock, snow, ice, and glaciers, from as far north as the Alaska Range to the far southern border of the Peruvian Andes. Julz spent the last 4 winters in Bozeman, MT, ski patrolling the steep flanks of Lone Mountain, ski touring to the more remote zones within the Gallatin Canyon and Madison Range, and getting lots of days out on the ice in Hyalite. Currently based out of Bellingham, WA and the North Cascades, she instructs climbing courses for the American Alpine Institute and will be working as an Avalanche Instructor this winter.

Jason MARTIN Jason is the Executive Director at the American Alpine Institute (AAI). He joined the Institute as a guide in the year 2000 and moved into an administrative position in 2008, and he took over as director of the organization in 2019.

In addition to his work at AAI, Jason is currently on the Board of Directors for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), serves on the Mt. Erie Climbing Committee for the city of Anacortes, participates in the annual Association for Outdoor Recreation and Education (AORE) conference and volunteers for the Bellingham Mountain Rescue Council. He serves as the technical director for the annual Red Rock Rendezvous climbing festival and previously served on the Board of Directors for the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council. Jason co-authored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide and Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual, and authored Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates and Best Climbs: Red Rocks.

JASON’S SCHEDULE Crevasse Rescue: Fri., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center White Out Navigation Techniques: Sat., Nov. 16 from 8 a.m.–2 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide, Leave No Trace Master Educator, Rope Rescue Technician, and International Technical Rescue Association Level 3 Rope Instructor.

M O V E TO N AT U R A L Layers you can breathe in.

Brett MERLIN

Mick PEARSON

Brett Merlin is into all things climbing and been at it for over 25 years. His progression through climbing has taught him how to make the most out of his travels through a focus on light and fast climbing tactics. He started as a rock climber then learned how to carefully navigate choss in the alpine without knocking down too many rocks. After that, he started ice climbing a bit and has even been known to not DNF in a Ski Mountaineering Race from time to time!

In his formative years, his strong climbing BRETT’S SCHEDULE ability allowed him to get off route and runout faster than most. He likes to think he Progression Towards Fast learned something from these experiences. & Light: Thu., Nov. 14 from An ongoing student of the craft, his travels 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama take him all over the country to major Mountaineering Center climbing festivals to teach, work, and adventure as hard as he can in the limited time he has. You will often find him on the western circuit of the AAC Craggin Classic Series, the Bozeman Ice Festival, Ouray Ice Festival, and the Michigan Ice Festival. He’s excited to teach others and help them reach their personal goals in all aspects of climbing. Brett lives in Boulder, Colorado with his wife and daughter.

Mick resides in Seattle, WA managing Kaf Adventures an outdoor education and adventure travel company, and works tirelessly to provide world-class experiences and educational experiences that provide knowledge and a greater perspective of wilderness travel.

Mick’s true passion is education. He has found a unique passion for educating aspiring instructors and guides in the U.S. You will find him outside helping new leaders gain confidence in their ability to make decisions in complex environments.

Mick is an AMGA certified Rock and Alpine Guide, SPI Program Provider, AMGA Instructor Team Member, LNT Master Trainer, a Wilderness First Responder, a certified Level 3 AAI Avalanche graduate, and a Course Leader for the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education.

MICK’S SCHEDULE High Angle Rescue: Sat., Nov. 16 from 12:30–3:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Sun., Nov. 17 from 9 a.m.–Noon at Planet Granite

Katie MILLS Katie Mills is grassroots Mazamas, having taken every Mazamas climbing class offered since landing in the Basic Climbing Education Program in 2006.

She will always be a peak bagger at heart. Being in the midst of the beautiful rugged alpine with not another soul around is her favorite thing in the world.

Katie started her climbing career on scrambles and glaciated peaks with

the Mazamas, hiking to the summit of mountains and dubbing rock climbing as “too scary” and having no desire to partake in it. But then she climbed all the mountains by their nontechnical routes and there was nothing left to do, so she had to start rock climbing, which led to frozen waterfalls, and longer expeditions. She is a previous awardee of the Mazamas Bob Wilson Grant, both in 2016 and 2018.

KATIE’S SCHEDULE Expedition Unknown: Wed., Nov. 13 from 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

Portland Alpine Fest

Photo of the Year Here are the 24 semifinalist images as chosen by our judges— Brooke Jackson, John Waller, and Nicole Wasko. You can VOTE for the Audience Choice award! Cast your virtual vote by going to the PAF Facebook page and liking the image in the Portland Alpine Fest Photo of the Year album. Vote in person at Base Camp Brewing Company. Winners to be announced at The Summit: An Evening with Lynn Hill at The Redd on Nov. 16!

CALEB JACOBSON

PHILLIP BRANSCUM

DYLAN ZEOBELEIN

WADE HEWITT

WHITNEE GOODE

RACHAEL PIKE

DANIEL SHERMAN

KEVIN COWLEY

CALEB JACOBSON

DEREK FIAS

SCOTT GIBSON

KEVIN COWLEY

MICHELLE LIN

DYLAN ZEOBELEIN

RALPH DAUB

CALEB JACOBSON

KEVIN MACHTELINCKX

DREW LESCHE-WRAGGE

DREW LESCHE-WRAGGE

RACHAEL PIKE

DANIEL SHERMAN

LUCIE SINSABAUGH

CALEB JACOBSON

KEVIN MACHTELINCKX

Franรงois Cazzanelli Valtournenche, Aosta Valley, Italy Photo: Lorenzo Belfrond for Grivel

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