Portland Alpine Festival Guide 2016

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Nov. 15

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THE SUMMIT SPEAKER SERIES CLINICS & SEMINARS

PORTLAND ICE COMP PORTLANDALPINEFEST.ORG

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21 NE 12th Avenue Portland, OR 97232 (503) 232-8310 www.portlandrockgym.com facebook.com/portlandrockgym

Portland Alpine Fest presented by Grivel & hosted by the Mazamas

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he Portland Alpine Fest is a week-long celebration of mountain recreation offering a variety of opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts in the Portland Metro area. Choose from clinics & seminars with pro-athletes, a speaker series, the 11th Annual Portland Ice Comp, the Celebration of Trails, and, the biggest event of the week, The Summit: An Evening with Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley at Revolution Hall!

Inside this festival guide you’ll find details on: ▶▶ Complete festival schedule ▶▶ The Summit & Shop for a Cause (Silent Auction) ▶▶ Portland Ice Comp at Portland Rock Gym ▶▶ Athlete information & schedules ▶▶ Sponsor information

Get TICKETS & REGISTER for clinics:

portlandalpinefest.org

FESTIVAL SCHEDULE Tuesday, NOV. 15

Friday, NOV. 18

▶▶ Seminar: Merging the New School with the Old School (Kaf Adventures)

▶▶ Clinic: Big Wall Techniques (Scott Bennett)

▶▶ Speaker Series: Inquisition of the Arrigetch (Katie Mills, Nick Pappas and Todd Torres)

▶▶ Clinic: Efficient Movement (Angela VanWiemeersch)

Wednesday, NOV. 16 ▶▶ Clinic: Alpine Fast & Light (Scott Bennett) ▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (John Frieh) ▶▶ Clinic: Alpine Fast & Light (Scott Bennett) ▶▶ Seminar: Training for Weekend Warriors (John Frieh) ▶▶ Seminar: Rappelling: Pre-rigging, Extensions, Back-ups, and Improvised Devices (Kaf Adventures) ▶▶ Speaker Series: Into the Karakorum (Scott Bennett) ▶▶ Speaker Series: True Motivation: FastPacking the Huayhuash Circuit (Willie McBride, Brian Donnelly & Nick Triolo)

Thursday, NOV. 17

▶▶ Clinic: Intermediate/Advanced Mixed/Ice Climbing (John Frieh) ▶▶ Clinic: Training for Alpine Climbing (Brad Farra) ▶▶ Clinic: Crack Climbing Techniques (Angela VanWiemeersch) ▶▶ Seminar: Performance Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing (Alex Borsuk) ▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Angela VanWiemeersch) ▶▶ Clinic: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Scott Bennett) ▶▶ Film Premiere: Beacon Rock: Then & Now ▶▶ Speaker Series: Avy Awareness & Trip Planning (Scott Shell)

▶▶ Clinic: Advanced Techniques for Moving Fast in 5th-Class Terrain (Colin Haley) ▶▶ Clinic: Crack Climbing Techniques (Angela VanWiemeersch) ▶▶ Clinic: Beyond Waterfalls (Colin Haley) ▶▶ Speaker Series: Fail Often to Succeed Sooner (Christof Teuscher) ▶▶ 10th Annual Portland Ice Comp at the newly renovated Portland Rock Gym

Saturday, NOV. 19 ▶▶ Celebration of Trails: A fun run in Forest Park–a day of camaraderie and trails. ▶▶ The Summit: An Evening (Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley. The biggest night of the festival at Revolution Hall (two incredible speakers, silent auction supporting the Mazama Mountain Science School, vendor fair, and a special appearance by Fred Beckey.

Tickets: $25 until Nov. 11 Week of event: $35

Get the full festival schedule and tickets at portlandalpinefest.org

WATER ABSORPTION PETER MCCONKIE ON PITCH 4 OF FROZEN ASSETS, NORTH CREEK CANYON, UTAH

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Tickets:

the

portlandalpinefest.org

Nov.

SUMMIT

19 An Evening with Sasha

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DiGiulian & Colin Haley

he ultimate event of the Portland Alpine Fest, this is the one you won’t want to miss! You’ll experience an evening of exploration, pushing boundaries, and denying the existence of limits as you hear from two athletes who are out there challenging what is possible on a daily basis.

The evening will include presentations by Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley, a special appearance by Fred Beckey, a vendor fair, a huge silent auction that benefits the Mazama Mountain Science School, food & drink options, and much more.

Be inspired to new heights at the PAF Summit!

Get your tickets today—Tickets are just $25 until Nov. 11.

SHOP FOR A CAUSE! The silent auction at The Summit on Nov. 19 at Revolution Hall will include outdoor gear and experiences and comes at the perfect time for holiday shopping.

Look for the silent auction preview on Nov. 10.

Review the items, determine what you want to go home with, and show up at The Summit ready to bid!

Proceeds go to support the Mazama Mountain Science School which provides an outdoor learning opportunity for 5th grade students at the base of Mt. Hood. The program is growing from 150 kids in 2016 to 600 kids in 2017. Help us make Mazama Mountain Science School a success!

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PPOutdoor Gear PPExperiences PPAll to support a great cause PPGet your ticket to The Summit today and get ready to bid!

ortland Alpine Fest (PAF) and Friends of Outdoor School’s Photo of the Year (POTY) joined forces this year to bring you one great photo contest! POTY has a 14-year history of supporting Outdoor School and the folks at PAF are also huge supporters of this program. Our judges are working on winnowing these 200+ submissions to 24 semi-finalists. You will have the opportunity to vote for your favorite at Base Camp Brewing Company from Nov. 15–18. Stop in for some food, drinks, and make sure to vote. We’ll announce the judges top three picks, plus the audience choice award at THE SUMMIT on the evening of Nov. 19 at Revolution Hall.

11th Annual

Portland Nov.

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Ice Comp

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ut your ice climbing skills to the test and go axe-to-axe with some of the best climbers in the area.

You never know who might come out on top! Climbing at the newly renovated Portland Rock Gym, great prizes, vendor fair, a raffle, and beer … does it get any better than that?

Back to an evening event this year— we’ll see you at 5 p.m. at PRG!

Pre-Registration: $30 Day of Registration: $35 Spectators: Free!

Athletes

Colin

Haley

C

olin Haley grew up in Seattle and learned to climb in the nearby Cascade mountains. He credits most of his success in climbing to this early apprenticeship in the most rugged mountains available in the Lower-48.

He strives to maintain a relatively high level in every discipline of climbing, from bouldering, to El Cap routes, to highly-technical alpinism, to high-altitude slogging. While Seattle is still technically his home, he spends much more time in his three favorite towns, on three separate continents: El Chaltén, Argentina - Squamish, BC - Chamonix, France.

He is focused on technical routes on big mountains, and has been most successful in the mountains of Patagonia and Alaska. Some of his best achievements in Patagonia include the first solo ascent of Torre Egger, the first ascent of the reverse Torre Traverse, and oneday ascents of two of Patagonia’s most impressive traverses: the Torre Traverse and the Wave Effect. In Alaska some of his best achievements are the first ascent of the Entropy Wall on Mt. Moffit and the first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana.

COLIN HALEY'S SCHEDULE

PPNov. 18: Moving Fast in 5th Class Terrain (Clinic) PPNo. 18: Beyond Waterfalls (Clinic) PPNov. 19: Beyond Waterfalls (Clinic) PPNov. 19: Ski Mountaineering: Mixing Skis with Ice Axes (Seminar) PPNov. 19: The Summit: An Evening with Colin Haley & Sasha DiGiulian, 5–10 p.m. at Revolution Hall

Athletes

Scott

Bennett

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our mom might shudder if you told her that, having just finished college, you were gonna move into your car and become a full-time climbing “dirtbag”. Scott’s mom certainly did. But dirtbag Scott did, all around the Western Hemisphere for the better part of his 20s, climbing anything that didn’t crumble in his hands (and plenty of stuff that did). And much to his mother’s surprise, he’s managed to make climbing his career, as a professional alpinist and expedition climber.

It was in Argentine Patagonia that Scott really became an alpinist, first setting foot on a glacier and first going ground-up on virgin rock. Over the course of three seasons, he refined the raw strength and stoke of rock climbing into the cautious determination of a mountain climber.

With first ascents, from Alaska to the Waddington range, the Cascades to Patagonia, Scott has established himself as one of the most active alpinists of his generation. Last year, under the mentorship of veteran expedition climber Steve Swenson, Scott joined up with partner Graham Zimmerman for the pair’s first exploration of the Greater Ranges.

Over two months in the Pakistani Karakoram, the team made the first SCOTT BENNETT'S ascent of 6500m Changi Tower, and established a beautiful new line of the SCHEDULE Southwest ridge of K6 West, for that PPNov. 16: Alpine Fast & Light (Clinic) 7000m peak’s second ascent.

PPNov. 16: Alpine Fast & Light (Clinic) PPNov. 16: Into the Karakorum PPNov. 17: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) PPNov. 18: Big Wall Techniques

Athletes

Sasha

DiGiulian

S

asha first began climbing at 6 years old, in 1998. She has won the World Championships for Female Overall, and has placed Silver in the Bouldering World Championships, as well as Bronze in the Duel. Sasha has been the undefeated panAmerican Champion 2004 to the present, and she is a three-time US National Champion.

Outdoors, Sasha is the first North American woman to climb the grade 9a, 5.14d, recognized as one of the hardest sport climb ever achieved by a female. She has done two.

Sasha was the third woman in the world to accomplish this grade. Additionally, she has onsighted multiple 8b+’s, 5.14a’s, ascended groundbreaking multipitch routes of up to 1000 feet of 8c climbing, and has accomplished multiple First Ascents and 28 First Female Ascents around the world.

Sasha serves as an Athlete Ambassador for Right to Play, Up2Us, Women’s Sports Foundation, Outdoor Foundation, and HERA. She also serves as an Athlete Representative on the board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. She has been the recipient of multiple prestigious awards, including GLAMOUR Magazine’s Top College Women of the Year, 2016, the Cutting Edge Athlete Award for 2014 performance, presented by the American Alpine Club, The Golden Piton Award, and the Arco Rock Legend Award for Outstanding Achievements in the Outdoors.

In addition to climbing, Sasha has been a published writer by several publications, including National Geographic, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, SELF, Seventeen, and CRAVE. She travels globally for Appearances and Events, including Public Speaking and Clinics.

SASHA DIGIULIAN’S SCHEDULE PPNov. 19: Letting Go: The Art of Falling PPNov. 19: The Summit: An Evening with Colin Haley & Sasha DiGiulian, 5–10 p.m. at Revolution Hall

Athletes

Angela

VanWiemeersch

A

ngela VanWiemeersch grew up as a competitive ice skater in Detroit, Michigan where she danced across the horizontal ice until her late-teens.

Following a few years as a fashion design major in college, Angela embarked on a life-changing bike tour that recalibrated her life. After selling all her fashion supplies, Angela hitchhiked, paddled, and sailed her way through all of North America from the Arctic Ocean to the Panama Canal.

While hitchhiking through California, Angela heard of a place called Ouray, where people wore spikes on their feet and held axes in their hands to climb frozen waterfalls. She was enamored. She took every last dollar she had and spent it on a month-worth of rent in Ouray and a bag full of used climbing gear. Angela found the happiness and inspiration she was looking and is now fueled by the beauty and challenge that ice climbing offers. From the Ouray Ice Park to virgin ice in Zion to amazing alpine adventures in Alaska, Angela is once again dancing on ice, only this time she’s moving upward on vertical icefalls.

ANGELA VANWIEMEERSCH’S SCHEDULE PPNov. 17: Crack Climbing PPNov. 17: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing PPNov. 18: Efficient Movement PPNov. 18: Crack Climbing

Athletes

John

Frieh

J

ohn Frieh grew up idolizing climbers like Steve House and Mark Twight.

John quickly learned in order to model himself after their climbing style not only would he need to train; he would need to train intelligently in order to best utilize his limited time given his other responsibilities as a father and manager at Intel.

John has worked closely with Mark Twight and Gym Jones since 2009; he was the very first Fully Certified Gym Jones Instructor in 2012.

By applying this training knowledge John has accumulated 10 First Ascents in Alaska since 2009 including two on Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge, one on Mt. Bradley, and the First Winter Ascent of the French Ridge of Mt. Huntington among others. As a coach John has worked with a myriad of individuals since 2007. John is an Ambassador for Arc’teryx, Petzl, and Mountain Gear.

JOHN FRIEH’S SCHEDULE PPNov. 16: Training for Weekened Warriors PPNov. 16: Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing

Climbing, as a mainstream American sport, is growing exponentially, estimated at 350,000 users in 1994 to 6.8 million today. As climbers, land managers, and recreational providers, this means more opportunities to make our outdoor places inclusive and create the next generation of recreation stewards in Oregon and Washington. It also means more challenges for managing impacts, educating user groups, and providing access while protecting our natural resources. Join the Mazamas, Access Fund, and Oregon State Parks as we explore collaborative partnerships to create a sustainable future of recreation and conservation.

Register at portlandalpinefest.org

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The Portland Alpine Fest would not be possible without our incredible sponsors and partners.

Thank you!

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Valid only at specified location. Limit one discount per household. Must surrender original, unaltered coupon at the time of purchase. Offer may not be applied to prior purchases, combined with any other offers, used online or at any other store, redeemed by employees, or applied to gift card purchases or shipping charges. @2016 Columbia Sportswear USA Corporation.

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Silent Auction Donors ▶▶ Adam Nawrot

▶▶ Furnace Industries

▶▶ Oregon Symphony

▶▶ Adidas Outdoor

▶▶ GoTenna

▶▶ Patagonia

▶▶ Adventure Medical Kits

▶▶ GreenTrails

▶▶ Athleta

▶▶ Grivel

▶▶ Paws and Purrs Pet Service

▶▶ Belaggles

▶▶ HydraPak

▶▶ Bill Davis

▶▶ Icebreaker

▶▶ CAMP

▶▶ Joe Whittington

▶▶ CBC Balloon

▶▶ John Creager

▶▶ The Circuit Gym

▶▶ Julbo

▶▶ Clif Bar

▶▶ Justin Colquhoun

▶▶ Columbia Sportswear

▶▶ Kaf Adventures

▶▶ Crimp Chimps

▶▶ Karl Helser

▶▶ CRKT

▶▶ KIND

▶▶ Double Mountain Brewery

▶▶ La Sportiva

▶▶ Edelweiss

▶▶ Mandala Medicine & Wellness

▶▶ Elements Massage in the Pearl ▶▶ Elete ▶▶ Elk Meadow Cabins ▶▶ Evolution Healthcare & Fitness ▶▶ Evolv ▶▶ Everybody’s ▶▶ FalconGuide ▶▶ First Endurance ▶▶ Fuller Foods

▶▶ Lowa

▶▶ Monkii Bars ▶▶ Montbell ▶▶ Mountain Hardwear ▶▶ Mountain Shop ▶▶ Mountainsmith ▶▶ Next Adventure ▶▶ New Seasons ▶▶ New Zealand Jerky

▶▶ Petzl ▶▶ Photo-to-Canvas ▶▶ Planet Granite ▶▶ Portland Rock Gym ▶▶ Pro Photo Supply ▶▶ Rab ▶▶ Red Duck Foods ▶▶ REI ▶▶ Rock & Ice Magazine ▶▶ Salomon ▶▶ Sawyer ▶▶ The North Face ▶▶ The Source Climbing Center ▶▶ Terrebonne Depot Food + Drink ▶▶ Tracy Andrews Acupuncture ▶▶ Trail Butter ▶▶ Wy’east Wolfpack ▶▶ Yamhill Valley Vineyards

▶▶ Olivine Land

Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org The generosity of our numerous donors helped to contribute to the success of this event. Thank you.

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ANGELA VANWIERMEERSCH ON THE FA OF TRIVIUM WI4, UINTAS, UTAH

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