October 2016 Mazama Magazine

OCTOBER 2016 • VOL. 98 | NO.10

PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL: SCHEDULE & TICKET INFORMATION 5 WORLD-CLASS CAMPSITES IN OUR MOUNTAINS BARKING UP THE RIGHT TREES MAZAMAS AVOID DOOM & FIX CLIMBER TRAILS IN YOSEMITE

2 MAZAMAS

Nick Pappas and Todd Torres celebrate reaching the summit of an unnamed, unclimbed peak in the Aquarius Valley of the Arrigetch Peaks in Northern Alaska.See all PAF details on pages 7–10.

Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK • Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org; Committee Members: Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, and Michael Vincerra. (publications_group@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@ mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Cover: Mazama Climber Steward Alden Wilson moves over Cathedral Peak's benevolent granite on his first romp up the iconic stone on September 8, 2016.

An AYM group working in conjunction with the Pacific Crest Trail Association to maintain the Pacific Crest Trail near Frog Lake by removing rocks, improving drainage, and cutting back overgrowth. From left to right: Sándor Lau, Jess Buttler, John Stevenson and Brian Kowalesky.

Feature Articles

Portland Alpine Fest Intro, p. 7 Portland Alpine Fest Schedule, p. 8–9 Portland Alpine Fest Athletes, p. 10 A Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine, Part I, p. 11 5 World-Class Campsites in Our Mountains, p. 16 Barking Up the Right Trees, p. 18 Mazama Leader Completes 50 State Highpoints, p. 23 Mazamas Avoid Doom & Fix Climber Trails in Yosemite, p. 24 Renew Your Membership, p. 31

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Mazama Lodge, p. 13 Membership Report, p. 14 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 15 Classic Mazamas, p. 21 Successful Climbers, p. 22 Evening Travel Programs, p. 26 Trail Trips, p. 28 Outings, p. 30 Executive Council, p. 32

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 23 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 21 Centered in Motion, p. 6 Classifieds, p. 30 Climb Max Mountaineering, p.13 Embark Adventures, p. 29 Green Trails Maps, p. 31 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Hardwear, p. 27 Mountain Shop, p. 14 Next Adventure, p. 20 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 30 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 30 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, 6 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 30

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

OCTOBER 2016 3

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

YOU'RE INVITED!

Help the Mazamas Celebrate Mountain Culture Dear members and friends, Starting in October we’re hosting a series of events celebrating mountain culture in the Pacific Northwest that culminates with the Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) from Nov. 15–19. This year’s lineup is the biggest and most diverse set of events we’ve ever promoted and there really is something for everyone.

The fun starts with our weekly evening travel programs, then later this month we have a fundraiser for Mazama Historical Collections with legendary climber Doug Robinson, and in November we’re bringing Colin Haley, Sasha DiGuilian, Alan Watts, Fred Beckey, and several other speakers and athletes from across the country to Portland as a part of the 4th annual Portland Alpine Festival. Here are some highlights to get you psyched!

Our evening travel programs start on Wednesday, Oct. 12 with author and guide Peter Baxter’s tales of adventure exploring the breathtaking wildflower region of South Africa, Tanzania’s Big-5 wildlife safaris, and the exotic history of Zanzibar’s powder-white beaches. The following week, on Oct. 17, we welcome Eddy Cartaya, coordinator of the Mt. Rainier Fumarole Cave Project which is an integrated study of the processes and ecology of one of the largest volcanic crater glacier cave systems in the world.

Next, on Tuesday, Oct. 25 we welcome climbing legend Doug Robinson to the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a fundraiser in support of the Mazama Historical Collections. In 1972 Doug Robinson published an essay in a Chouinard Equipment Catalog (the precursor company to both Patagonia and Black Diamond Equipment) entitled The Whole Natural Art of Protection, sharing a new way of protecting rock climbs without damaging the rock walls.

Robinson then went on to make the first clean ascent of the northwest face of Half Dome in 1973, helping to inspire generations of climbers to climb without pitons and hammers and to preserve rock walls and mountains for the future. In addition to meeting and talking with Doug 4 MAZAMAS

Robinson, you’ll get to see rare lantern slides and artifacts from 19th and early 20th century Mazama explorations in Pacific Northwest mountains.

The evening will showcase the Mazama Library, Archives, and Museum which house one of the most important and largest collections of mountaineering history in the world.

And the Holman Auditorium will be transformed into a virtual museum, with displays, photographs, and memorabilia covering more than half a century of mountaineering across the Cascades.

Tickets are $35/ person and include dinner. Donations and pledges will be solicited that evening with a goal of increasing annual support for Mazamas work in promoting and protecting the history of climbing and mountain culture in the Pacific Northwest.

We hope to gain the support of both enthusiastic new members and longtime leaders at the Mazamas.

Our fall event season concludes Nov. 15–19 with the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF), a week-long celebration of mountain culture in the Pacific Northwest. We have athletes and speakers coming in from all across the country to teach clinics, and share their stories of adventure and exploration. Now in its fourth year, PAF has grown to be a whole community festival with events happening at the Mountain Shop, Portland Rock Gym, Revolution Hall, Patagonia, Ecotrust, Arc’teryx, Evolution Heathcare and Fitness, and Base Camp Brewing Company.

Thursday and Friday, Nov. 17 and 18, the Festival hosts the Northwest Sustainable Climbing Conference in partnership with Oregon State Parks, and the Access Fund. The conference will include panel

Starting in October we’re hosting a series of events celebrating mountain culture in the Pacific Northwest that culminates with the Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) from Nov. 15–19. This year’s lineup is the BIGGEST and MOST DIVERSE set of events we’ve ever promoted and there really is something for EVERYONE. discussions on connecting youth with the outdoors, promoting conservation within the current climbing community, and bringing different stakeholder groups together to create partnerships on public lands. Speakers include Alan Watts and key staff from the Mazamas, the Mountaineers, the Access Fund, Big City Mountaineers, Oregon State Parks, the USFS, Washington State Parks, and Outdoor Alliance.

The evening of Nov. 19 brings the biggest event of the festival, The Summit, with presentations from world-class climbers Sasha DiGiulian and Colin Haley, held at Revolution Hall. Tickets are on sale now for all festival events and clinics and we hope to see you there.

Everyone is welcome and invited to all our Mazama events, and we hope you’ll consider bringing a friend or family member along to an event or clinic to share your joy of the mountains and climbing.

Lee Davis Executive Director

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS ONGOING Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order.

Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@ mazamas.org to sign up or learn more.

HIKE LEADERS ONGOING Are you an avid hiker? Do you have favorite hikes that you wish the Mazamas would put on the hike schedule? Would you like to give back to the Mazamas while you enjoy time in the wilderness? Consider becoming a hiker leader! To get started down this trail, bring your questions to Regis Krug at regis_krug@mentor.com.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING

The Mazama Families program runs regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These

hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor. Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Bill Stein, billstein. rpcv@gmail.com.

AYM CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS ONGOING

Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

Choose the climbing gym of your choice! Contact aym@ mazamas.org if you would be interested in hosting.

MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING The Mazama Families Committee has openings for new members to join the committee for 2016–2017.

Since its inception in 2013, the committee has offered a variety of activities and courses to help families develop outdoor and mountaineering skills and to apply those skills in our wonderful region. If you would like to help this strong program carry forward into the future, please consider joining

the committee. To express your interest, or for more information, email families@ mazamas.org.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST (PAF)

The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers. If you are interested in helping out, please contact ues@mazamas.org.

ONGOING

Join the team that puts on the biggest event of the year!

We have opportunities for you to get involved with a long-term volunteer gig, or to drop in for a few hours. Visit the PAF website to learn more and sign up! portlandalpinefest.org/ volunteer/

STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED! ONGOING

Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group?

The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! We meet the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, please contact Marketing & Communications Director Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas. org) .

ONGOING

PARTNER VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITY: INSPIRING CONNECTIONS OUTDOORS ONGOING

The Sierra Club’s Inspiring Connections Outdoors (ICO) program creates opportunities through outdoor experiences for personal growth, lifestyle change, and leadership skill development. The program is seeking volunteers to lead and to chaperone day hikes for local youth. Join us for a meeting and volunteer orientation the first Thursday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the Sierra Club offices at 1821 SE Ankeny, or contact volunteer@mazamas.org for more information.

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl.com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

MAZAMA ANNUAL MEETING & VOLUNTEER DINNER: Oct. 3; 5:30 p.m. at the MMC

The Executive Council hosts this dinner, catered by Charles Barker of the Mazama Lodge, to honor our volunteers for all they have done this year. We strongly encourage committee chairs to attend the dinner and annual meeting to give your annual reports and share what your committee has accomplished. Date: Monday, Oct. 3. (the RSVP deadline for dinner was Sept. 25). Agenda: Annual reports: president, treasurer, secretary, executive director, foundation, and committees. Results of the voting for Executive Council. Regular October Executive Council meeting to follow, in lieu of Oct. 11.

OCTOBER 2016 5

JOIN US!

For a fundraiser to support the

Mazama Library & Historical Collections Tuesday, Oct. 25 at the MMC

An Evening with Doug Robinson Doors at 5:30 p.m., lantern slideshow at 6:30p.m., dinner and presentation at 7 p.m. $35/person or $400/ table. Tickets: tinyurl.com/ MazDougRobinson.

Doug Robinson is a professional mountaineer known internationally for his climbing, guiding and backcountry skiing, as well as his poetic writings about the mountains and why we climb them. Closely identified with California’s High Sierra, Doug has been called “the modern John Muir.” Evening program to include: Historic lantern slide show, exhibits, tours & more!

The presentation will include stories of learning to climb in the Pacific Northwest, a teenager making an epic winter ascent of Mt. Shasta, dual soloing Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge with Chris Landry—who then made its first ski descent—and then making the first pin-binding ski descent of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Glacier. Doug’s photos of that trip landed in Sports Illustrated.

Doug will bring a few historic “artifacts” to share with the crowd during his presentation. Perhaps you’ll get to see Doug’s classic bamboo-handled Chouinard Piolet, which he used on Liberty Ridge and the second ascent of Ama Dablam.

Tracy Andrews Acupuncture

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6 MAZAMAS

Portland Alpine Fest

Sasha DiGiulian

Plan to join us for the 4th Annual Portland Alpine Fest! From Nov. 15–19 we have a great lineup planned with something to suit everyone who loves to play in the mountains!

The SUMMIT: An Evening with Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley. The BIGGEST night of the festival! Nov. 19 at Revolution Hall. You’ll enjoy exciting presentations from these amazing climbers, a huge silent auction with amazing gear from our sponsors, vendor fair, and possibly even a special guest!

hosted by

Colin Haley

Portland Ice Comp:11th Annual drytooling competition at Portland Rock Gym. We return to our evening format this year. You can either put your skills to the test on the walls or come out to spectate and enjoy the fun!

CLINICS offer 1 or 3-hour, hands-on sessions with an athlete. Clinics are limited to 8, 10, or 12 people (depending on location, subject) to maximize your instructional time with the athlete.

Colin Haley

Seminars are 1, 2, or 3 hours and are lecture-style with a larger group with an athlete.

The SPEAKER SERIES consists of slideshow-style presentations by an athlete. There are seven different speaker series events to choose from between Nov. 15–18.

Scott Bennett

Northwest Sustainable Climbing Conference: Join the Mazamas, Access Fund, and Oregon State Parks as we explore collaborative partnerships to create a sustainable future of recreation and conservation.

Angela VanWiemeersch

presented by

Lead Sponsors

portlandalpinefest.org

John Frieh OCTOBER 2016 7

PAF Schedule NOV. 15 Inquisition of the Arrigetch: Katie Mills, Nick Pappas, and Todd Torres kick off the fsetival as they share their experience travelling to the far reaches of northern Alaska seeking the unclimbed rock of one of the last great climbing wildernesses, the Arrigetch Peaks. 7–9 p.m. at the Mazama

Mountaineering Center

NOV. 16

NOV. 17

Alpine Fast & Light: Do you aspire to bigger and more involved objectives? Would you like to simplify and master the ropework and rigging of multipitch anchors? In this clinic, you'll learn strategies for approaching longer routes with confidence and moving quickly. Scott Bennett; 8–11 a.m. at PRG Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: Are you completely new to climbing? Or are you a rock or gym climber but have never swung an ice axe? Then this basics clinic is for you! You will learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. John Frieh; 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing: Learn advanced techniques to improve the fun factor/efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide you through the steeper stuff.

Additionally, learn techniques to move through the terrain when the ice gets thin or simply disappears. Scott Bennett; 1–4 p.m.

at the MMC

Training For Weekend Warriors: Discuss training concepts that if applied will allow for greater personal success in climbing without having to quit your job and live out of your car. This seminar will be primarily focused on training for alpine climbing of the snow and ice type, but is also applicable to alpine rock climbing. John Frieh; 1–4 p.m. at the MMC Into the Karakoram: Join Scott Bennett as he recounts his and Graham Zimmerman's adventure in Pakistan to tackle massive unclimbed peaks, with mentor Steven Swenson, who is perhaps the most successful American alpinist of his generation.

7–9 p.m. at the MMC

True Motivation: Fast-packing the Cordillera Huayhuash: Join Portland’s own Willie McBride, Brian Donnelly, and (ex-native) Nick Triolo for a rousing and inspirational slideshow journey through their recent 3-day, 75-mile fast-pack of Peru’s rugged, high altitude Cordillera Huayhuash circuit. 7–9 p.m. at

Base Camp Brewing Company

Katie Mills enjoying a rest break during the first ascent of The Eye of Sauron on the unclimbed North Buttress of The Albatross in Arrigetch Peaks of Northern Alaska. Photo: Nick Pappas.

Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing: Learn advanced techniques to improve the fun factor/efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide you through the steeper stuff. John Frieh; 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Training for Alpine Climbing: Explore the reasoning behind programming to meet alpine climbing goals and learn how to practice and perfect a series of movements that are critical to alpine climbing success regardless of your experience level or goals. Brad Farra; 8–11 a.m. at

Evolution

Crack Climbing Techniques: This clinic will teach the most important movement in traditional climbing, touching on varying hand/finger techniques, how to jam without pain, new footwork concepts, and tricks for efficiency. Angela VanWiemeersch; 8–11 a.m. at the PRG Performance Nutrition: Eating your Way to Better Climbing: Learn about how your normal diet differs from an active diet, fueling properly while in the mountains, what to eat to recover, hydration, the importance of electrolytes, and some meal ideas. Alex Borsuk; 12–1 p.m. at Evolution Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing: Learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. Angela VanWiemeersch;

1–4 p.m. at the MMC (women only) & Scott Bennett; 6–9 p.m. at the MMC A Gypsy’s Life in the Mountains: Join us at Arc’teryx to hear climber Angela VanWiemeersch share tales of her adventurous life in the mountains. From the ice of Zion to the mountains of Alaska, her stories and experiences will not disappoint. 7–9 p.m. at Arc'teryx Portland

Beacon Rock: Then & Now: Film Premiere! Learn how this film came into existence, meet the team, and stick around for a Question & Answer session after the Portland-premiere screening at Patagonia Portland. 7–9

p.m. at Patagonia Portland

Avalanche Awareness & Trip Planning: Scott Schell, NWAC Executive Director and co-author of Backcountry Skiing: Skills for Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering presents at the Mountain Shop on how NWAC’s avalanche and mountain weather products can help you get the most out of your day in the backcountry. 6–9 p.m. at the Mountain Shop

Get Tickets Now at: portlandalpinefest.org 8 MAZAMAS

Scott Bennett. Photo: Garrett Grove

Angela VanWiemeersch. Photo: Savanna Cummins

NOV. 19

Scott Bennett; 8–11 a.m. at PRG

Advanced Techniques for Moving Fast in 5th Class Terrain.

Colin Haley; 8–11 a.m. at the MMC (FULL)

Efficient Movement on Ice & Rock: Build confidence to overcome mental obstacles and learn to climb like a master with minimal energy expended. Learn proper balance and body positioning, and practice these efficient movement skills. Angela VanWiemeersch;

8–11 a.m. at the PRG

Crack Climbing Techniques: This clinic will teach the most important movement in traditional climbing, touching on varying hand/finger techniques, how to jam without pain, new footwork concepts, and tricks for efficiency. Angela VanWiemeersch; 1–4 p.m. at PRG Beyond Waterfalls: A clinic with Colin Haley focusing on moving efficiently with crampons and ice axes on the wide variety of snow, ice, and mixed terrain encountered while alpine climbing.

Colin Haley; 1–4 p.m. at the MMC

Fail Often to Succeed Sooner: Christof Teuscher presents on why failures should be embraced, celebrated, used as a tool to improve, and employed as a stepping stone to success. 6:30–8:30 p.m. at Evolution

Portland Ice Comp: Want to test out your ice climbing skills? It’s that time of year again … Time to go head to head with some of the best climbers in the area. You never know who might come out on top! 5–10 p.m. at Portland Rock Gym Gold Sponsors

Silver Sponsors

Celebration of Trails: Join us for a running/hiking extravaganza in Forest Park! This event is for people of all ability levels. 8–11 a.m.; meet at Chapman School.

Beyond Waterfalls: A clinic with Colin Haley focusing on moving efficiently with crampons and ice axes on the wide variety of snow, ice, and mixed terrain encountered while alpine climbing. Colin Haley; 8–11 a.m. at the MMC The Art of Letting Go: Join Sasha DiGiulian at the Portland Rock Gym as she shares her expansive knowledge of climbing to teaches you the techniques to perfect your falls. Sasha

DiGiulian; 9–10 a.m. at PRG

Ski Mountaineering: Mixing Skis with Ice Axes: A seminar for mountaineers and ice climbers who are interested in using skis to more easily approach winter climbs or climbs in Alaska, or simply skiing down mountains after ascending by climbing routes. Colin Haley; 12:30–2:30 p.m. at the Mountain Shop

THE SUMMIT: The ultimate event of the Portland Alpine Fest, this is the one you won’t want to miss! This will be a full evening with presentations by Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley, a vendor fair, a huge silent auction that benefits the Mazama Mountain Science School, food carts, and much more!. 5:30–10:30 p.m. at Revolution Hall PAFterparty: The PAFterparty will follow The Summit, starting at 10:30 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company. All Summit ticket holders are welcome to attend.

10:30 p.m.–2 a.m. at Base Camp

Bronze Sponsors

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Big Wall Techniques: Forging your way up big walls requires every technique you’ve gained at the crags. Veteran all-around climber Scott Bennett will get you thinking about why and how you might want to venture into this vertical arena, and what skills you’ll need to navigate it.

RAR E

NOV. 18

OCTOBER 2016 9

Get to Know Our Athletes t s e F e in lp A Por tland

lian

Sasha DiGiu

Sasha DiGiulian first began climbing at 6 years old, in 1998.

Outdoors, Sasha is the first North American woman to climb the grade 9a, 5.14d, recognized as one of the hardest sport climb ever achieved by a female. She has done two. Sasha was the third woman in the world to accomplish this grade. Additionally, she has onsighted multiple 8b+’s, 5.14a’s, ascended groundbreaking multipitch routes of up to 1000 feet of 8c climbing, and has accomplished multiple First Ascents and 28 First Female Ascents around the world.

Scott Bennett. Photo:

Blake Herrington

With first ascents, from Alaska to the Waddington range, the Cascades to Patagonia, Scott Bennett has established himself as one of the most active alpinists of his generation. Last year, under the mentorship of veteran expedition climber Steve Swenson, Scott joined up with partner Graham Zimmerman for the pair’s first exploration of the Greater Ranges. Over two months in the Pakistani Karakoram, the team made the first ascent of 6500m Changi Tower, and established a beautiful new line of the Southwest ridge of K6 West, for that 7000m peak’s second ascent.

10 MAZAMAS

Colin Haley

Colin Haley grew up in Seattle and learned to climb in the nearby Cascade mountains. He credits most of his success in climbing to this early apprenticeship in the most rugged mountains available in the Lower-48. He strives to maintain a relatively high level in every discipline of climbing, from bouldering, to El Cap routes, to highly-technical alpinism, to high-altitude slogging. While Seattle is still technically his home, he spends much more time in his three favorite towns, on three separate continents: El Chaltén, Argentina – Squamish, BC – Chamonix, France.

athan Smith

eersch. Photo: N

m Angela VanWie

Angela VanWiemeersch grew up as a competitive ice skater in Detroit, Michigan where she danced across the horizontal ice until her late-teens. While hitchhiking through California, Angela heard of a place called Ouray, where people wore spikes on their feet and held axes in their hands to climb frozen waterfalls. She was enamored. Angela found the happiness and inspiration she was looking and is now fueled by the beauty and challenge that ice climbing offers. From the Ouray Ice Park to virgin ice in Zion to amazing alpine adventures in Alaska, Angela is once again dancing on ice, only this time she’s moving upward on vertical icefalls.

A Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine, Part I:

A Spanking on Mt. Ogden

by Stefani Dawn I thought I had this in the bag—or at least mostly in the bag.

I was invited to join a group of friends to climb the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney in the Sierra Nevadas. Although I am not an alpine climber, or even much of a peak-bagger, that sounded like a great opportunity—certainly not something to pass up lightly. After much internal deliberation, I said yes.

Since Mt Whitney is the highest peak in the continental U.S., I knew I needed to train. Although I was given confirmation of my participation only about a month prior to the trip (I was offered the spot of another who couldn’t go), I figured that would be enough time since I was in decent shape.

I increased training with more time at the climbing gym and hiking at altitude on nearby mountains (we recently located to Ogden, Utah, from Oregon). I also added 2-hour sessions several days a week before work; early morning sessions included hiking several thousand feet up and down nearby mountains and climbing with my husband at the local crag, which has a long, steep talus approach.

The real test came with a trial alpine run the weekend before leaving for Whitney.

We didn’t have the entire weekend because my son was visiting, so we planned around his Saturday departure. After dropping our son at the airport, we planned to get home, eat, grab all the gear, hike nearly 5,000 feet up Taylor’s Canyon to just below Mt. Ogden at 9,500 feet, and camp. On Sunday, we would hike down about 1,000 feet to the base of an 11 pitch mixed trad/sport climb, ascend the 1,200-foot route, walk down from the peak to our campsite, retrieve our camping gear, then hike out.

Instead, we got out the door later than planned. My husband and I were each hauling 50+ pound packs. I had all of the climbing gear, including a trad rack, 70m rope, alpine draws, two helmets, two

harnesses, and two sets of shoes. He had all of the camping equipment, food (all no-cook meals), and water—we needed to haul up all of our water, since it was summer and the springs were dry. We slogged up the steep but maintained threemile trail, which took us up 2,100 feet.

The next 2,900 feet to the top involved bushwhacking up steeper terrain and a dry creek bed with bushes, talus, and boulders.

Because of our late start and the slow bushwhacking, by sunset’s arrival we were about 1,000 feet short of where we needed to be. We were pretty beat, and felt the darkness, tiredness, and bushwhacking was not a good combination. We decided to camp at the first decent spot. Flat ground was scarce, but we found one tiny area that would fit our small, ultra-light, barely two-person tent. Testing the ground, my husband said the angle didn’t seem too bad, considering.

By the time we snacked and got settled in, it was nearly 10 p.m. We climbed into the tent, laid down, and both of us slowly

slid towards the door. All night was an exercise in re-positioning; solid sleep was fleeting.

We “woke” before sunrise and the alarm, broke camp, left the nonclimbing paraphernalia, and continued bushwhacking upwards in the beauty of the setting full moon and emerging dawn.

It was slow going.

We finally made it to the crest and bushwhacked down towards the base of the climb, stumbling over loose rocks, holes and bushes. With about 300 feet remaining and even steeper terrain ahead, I called to my husband to stop.

“Rick, I very much want to climb this," I said. "But I'm concerned that exhaustion, combined with a steep, rocky descent with heavy packs, is an invitation for injury.

We're also getting to the base of the climb nearly two hours later than our original plan. If the climb takes longer than we anticipate, we'll be hiking down through all that steep crap, way later than we want.”

continued on next page OCTOBER 2016 11

Trad Climber, continued from previous page “I totally agree,” he replied. “Honestly, my ass is getting completely kicked by this.”

I was relieved to hear he was in the same boat. We decided to turn around and abandon the climb. I looked at the 700+ feet we just descended and thought it would be much more fun to rock-climb the face back up. It was disappointing to come all this way and not do the part I was looking forward to the most.

The 700-foot ascent and 5,000 foot decent was nothing short of painful; my rubbery legs were handed to me.

I have always had a great respect for alpinists. They are a whole other breed, one fit on multiple levels, with numerous technical climbing skills on rock and ice; they deal with multiple, dangerous variables from weather to bad rock to high altitude, and have excellent planning, implementation, and decision-making skills.

I have dealt with many of these elements individually as a multi-pitch trad rock climber, backpacker, backcountry skier, and bushwhacking hiker, but this was my first attempt to string elements together to create an alpine climbing experience— albeit a comparatively low risk one. The experience was far more challenging than I had anticipated, and it became crystal clear that alpine climbing is definitely greater than the sum of its individual parts.

Admittedly, we made several mistakes in this endeavor, including leaving later than planned, underestimating the time and effort of the approach, and perhaps carrying more than we should.

For example, I wonder if we should have brought a shorter rope—say, 50 meters— which would have allowed us to bring a smaller rack. Since we had not climbed this route, we decided to bring the 70m rope, for several reasons: (1) to string together pitches to save time (most pitches were between 30-35m); (2) The pitches have bolted anchors and the rock is mostly slab.

We reasoned that, unlike a crack climb, we couldn't build an anchor at any point along the climb, and thus were bound to the predefined pitch lengths; (3) The longest single pitch is 80m, but mostly 4th class with a short 5th class section. We would simul-climb this anyway; the next longest pitch was 50m—i.e. the minimum

12 MAZAMAS

rope length we could bring unless we simul-climbed; and finally, (4) although there are a couple walkoff bail points, we wanted a rope long enough to rappel most of the pitches, if needed. We considered our 60m twin ropes, but those are heavier than the 70m. We may have gotten away with a 50m, but I was uncomfortable with going short.

It would leave us with few escape options. I also thought, “What if that 50m pitch is 51m?” I recognize this may have been “multi-pitch crag” thinking, or perhaps even overly cautious thinking. Experienced alpinists may have approached the gear quite differently, with different comfort levels for risk. This type of reasoning and difficult decisionmaking further exemplifies how alpine climbing is a step beyond.

As I tripped and slid down the last mile of trail under my weakening legs, I seriously questioned whether I was ready for Whitney. Although the East Buttress climb is well within my ability—low grade, mostly 5.7 with up to 5.10 sections that can often be avoided—I was concerned about stringing together the pieces: the long, steep approach (4 miles, 4000 feet to camp, 1000+ feet up to the base of the climb); the need to carry climbing and camping gear, including food for several days; the alpine starts; the exposure; the altitude (base camp is at around 12,000 feet and Whitney is over 14,000 feet); the weather; and the steep talus descent after a full day of climbing.

When I said yes to Whitney, I knew the seriousness of the endeavor. But my “baby step” experience with Mt. Ogden quickly revealed my weaknesses, and my fallacious assumption that my fairly extensive individual experiences would all add up and deliver. I was seriously considering backing out.

As time gave me some distance from the Mt. Ogden experience, my muscles recovered and the need to make a decision about Mt. Whitney approached. Another two people from the original Whitney team of four had to back out, which opened a spot for my husband. We both had been training together since the possibility of his

going existed, and we decided to go for it.

We would be going as a team of three, with another climber who was experienced but who, like us, had also not climbed Whitney.

We felt like we could take the mistakes made on our Mt. Ogden practice run and try not repeat them on Whitney. We were fully aware that Whitney has its own unique risks and attributes, and it could very well have its own ways to whip us ... and whip us it did.

To be continued in Part 2, the Mt. Whitney experience. (Check out the original article on the Common Climber website: commonclimber.com/mt-ogden-spanking. html).

About the Author: Stefani Dawn's favorite past time is rock climbing, especially easy trad multi-pitch and technical sport climbs. Her second favorite past time is writing about rock climbing. Her third favorite past time is hosting outdoor rock climbing meet-up events to connect with other climbers and mentor newer climbers.

Obsessed? Perhaps. She prefers to think of it as passion. This passion spurred her to create the Common Climber website which contains writing, tips, reviews, and photos created by and oriented towards us—the everyday common climber. Submissions are always welcomed!

AYMMAZAMA LODGE

YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN MAZAMA LODGE WORK PARTY Mazama Lodge Fall Work Party is Saturday, Oct. 29 from 10 a.m.–3 p.m.

Our goal is to get 5 cords of wood split for the winter. Besides splitting wood, we have many other chores to get the lodge ready for our winter usage. For more questions about the work party you can contact our lodge chairman Bob Stayton at rstayton@comcast.net or give him a call at 503-799-0785. We will be serving a complimentary lunch to all the volunteers and offering a free lodging coupon OR come up Friday evening, October 28 and stay for free and enjoy a great loggers breakfast Saturday morning.

Our caretaker Renee Moore has been with us for two seasons. Rennee is leaving to focus on her academic studies as she completes her degree at Portland State University. Brett and Aaron, who were with us two years ago, will return this

THANKSGIVING RESERVATIONS We are now accepting Thanksgiving Reservations at the lodge. Our prices are the same as last year. $22 for Adults and $13.25 for kids 12 and under. The lodge opens at noon on Thanksgiving. We have a hike from the lodge that leaves at 1 p.m., appetizers at 4 p.m., and dinner will be served at 5 p.m. Make your reservation by emailing us at lodge@ mazamas.org. Payment is made when you arrive at the lodge.

Caption for Wedding at the Lodge

winter to keep us well-nourished with some yummy homemade breads. A special thank you to Renee for her great lodge work, we hope to see her back next spring.

ANNUAL LOCKER RENTALS For those of you who have an annual locker rental please send your payment to Mazama Lodge. Payment is $25 per locker for the year. You can either pay with a check or pay with a credit card next time you come up to the lodge.

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Call: 503.816.0207 OCTOBER 2016 13

Annual Election It's time to VOTE for the Mazamas Annual Election. This year you'll be voting for your new Executive Council members, Nominating Committee members, and two Bylaws Amendments.

How Do You Vote?

• E–Voting: All Mazama members (3,343 members) who had an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who did not Opt-Out of E-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, received an email to vote on Sept. 3. You must utilize this voting link by Oct. 3 at 3 p.m. No votes can be accepted after that time.

• Vote by Mail: All Mazama members who Opted-Out of E-voting (28 members opted-out), or who did not have an email address on file with the Mazamas (234 members) received a paper ballot by standard USPS mail. Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 3 at 3 p.m. to be counted.

Ballots received after that time cannot be accepted.

Executive Council Candidates Steve Couche Bruce Nisker Laura Pigion Marty Scott Barbara Weiss

Nominating Committee Candidates Lis Cooper Alex Fox Kristie Perry

You may view candidate biographies for Executive Council online at: mazamas.org/about-us/executive-council/

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: 48 Patrick Aitchison—Mt. Hood Scott Alperin—Middle Sister Kellie Beck—South Sister Anna Becker—Mt. Hood Pamela Bishop—Old Snowy Thomas Bode—Mt. Adams Anne Boeder—Old Snowy Marielle Breneman—South Sister Kathryn Camp—Mt. Adams Clinton Carpenter—Mt. St. Helens Dian Connett—Mt. Hood Sarah Devita-McBride—South Sister Milton Diaz—Mt. Adams Norther Emily—South Sister Adam Frank—Mt. Hood Ingrid Freaney—Mt. St. Helens Aleta Fullenwider—Mt. St. Helens Gibbs Gibson—South Sister Seth Green—Mt. Adams Leah Greenspan—Mt. Shasta Eliza Hamm—South Sister Dave Hart—Mt. Adams Althea Hayden—Old Snowy John Herman—South Sister Neal Hershey—Mt. Adams

Raphaela Hsu-Flanders—Mt. Hood Lisa Hughes—South Sister Stephanie Imig—Mt. St. Helens Rebecca Jacobson—Mt. Hood Russell Kaye—Mt. Hood Christy Lewis—Mt. St. Helens Kheng Chye Lim—Mt. Adams Syd Long—Mt. Hood Lindsey McGuire—Mt. Hood Martin Montalvo—Mt. St. Helens Harold Naparst—South Sister Chris Nichols—Mt. Hood Jonathan Pape—Mt. St. Helens Annette Rushmore—Mt. St. Helens Courtney Rust—Old Snowy Adam Schalit—South Sister Nancy Schaumberg—South Sister Tom Schaumberg—South Sister Gregory Testa—Snowfield Peak Greg Turnbaugh—Mt. Adams Lynsey Tyler—Mt. Thielsen Matthew Waddell—Middle Sister Elena Weinberg—South Sister

Reinstatements: 3 Erin Beyer (2014), Sarah Holmes (2013), Del Profitt (2014) Deceased: 2 Beverly Schroeder (1973), Donnell Williams (1954)

Total Membership: 2016—3,617; 2015—3,478

AYM AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART. Mark your calendars for AYM’s most popular events: Our Annual Winter Weekend getaway at the Historic Mazama Lodge up on Mt. Hood, January 27-29, 2017. One of our biggest events of the year! Get ready for a fun weekend out in the snow. We’ll have snowshoeing and nordic/cross-country skiing at all levels. After a full day of outdoor winter fun, return to the warm and comfortable Mazama Lodge. There will be a lot of fun folks, great food, socializing, board games, late night films, and camaraderie around a roaring fire–and possibly even some igloo building!

Are you nterested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group?

Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month or board game night on the first Wednesday of the month (check our website and Meetup page for location).

We are always adding new events for getting outdoors! Be sure to watch both the mazamas.org/ activities/aym page and the AYM Meetup page for the most up to date schedule.

A group of AYM'ers during a Labor Day Weekend trip.

Summer Weekend 2016 THE NORTH CASCADES

by Mike Kacmar Twenty-nine of us journeyed to the Red Bridge Campground, 50 miles northeast of Seattle to share a unique experience that was destined to create new friendships and deepen existing ones.

It all started the Friday evening before Labor Day, as the campfire wood was challenged by misty rain, teaching us that nature rules us. And it did. Throughout the first night, our tents were tested and some of us were displaced to cars or another tent, in an attempt to sleep without water dampening our gear, face, or dignity.

The following morning, everyone regrouped, found their inner spirit to look forward and make the most of the trip, in hope that the weather would turn. And it did. Four hikes were led and the sun was buried behind the clouds for most of the day. As late afternoon started, the beams became more prevalent and shined on our group potluck throughout the evening at our campground.

More of the glorious same on Sunday. The food was still delicious and we started to bond more closely. By this time, I felt very excited to be in the middle of all of this as the newly adopted committee chair for AYM. This trip set the bar very high for us and

transcended any perceptions of AYM being just a social-hiking organization. We are a community of great leaders that inspire future Mazama leaders and Mazama members.

Special thanks to go around: To Reena Clements for her excellent organization and communication of many detailed elements to participants. To Matt Reeder for his detailed prospectus updates, for being Matt (i.e. a master of knowledge), and for his significant contributions over the past two years as the committee chair. To Cabe Nicksic for his impromptu planning at camp and provider of Pike Place salmon, cheese, and almonds.

To Sandor Lau for his grilling perfection and provider of delicious lamb chops, and blueberry-chocolate pancakes. To Keith DeChant, Krista Collins, Taylor Courier, and the aforementioned leaders for the leading memorable hikes. And lastly, to every person that attended this trip by bringing a great attitude, calm spirit, and delicious food!

OCTOBER 2016 15

WORLD-CLASS CAMPSITES in our

by Barry Maletzky

W

e do not want for richly rewarding campsites as backpackers, or peak-baggers in the Northwest.

The following are only a few of my favorites; many more could be added. However, these 5 campsites stand tall against any I have visited anywhere in teh world: the Himalaya, Alps, and Adnes; New Zealand and B.C.; the Rockies, the Sierra, even Alaska. I have chosen them for their spectacle of peaks and meadows, glaciers, flowers, and waterfalls, as well as their potential for wandering days on end from their base. The following are not descriptions sufficiently detailed to get you to some of these places; that’s why there are guidebooks. But they do point the 16 MAZAMAS

way to paradise. See if you agree and if not, offer your own favorites.

After all, it’s as free to write about these choice campsites as it is to occupy them. They are listed south to north rather than in any preferential order. ▶▶ Jefferson Park—Oregon: The premier site to camp, in my opinion, in our state, lies just a few hours south of Portland and, yes, it’s crowded and may require a pre-planned reservation. There’s a reason for its popularity: lakes, ponds, swales, meadows, flowers, ample campsites, and, for some, the easiest route to climb Mt. Jefferson, all combine to render Jeff Park exceptional in a state not lacking for glorious views. For just a 7½- mile drive on the Whitewater Road off Highway 22 south of Detroit, then a 5-mile up and down pleasant trail with a minimal gain of only 1,700 ft., you’re in Oregon’s version of heaven. With this easy an approach, you don’t even have to sacrifice those camping pleasures you banish for the tougher trips. Bring the fishing rod, the extra cookies and chips, yes, even (on a

s

n i a t n Mou

nonMazama trip) the bottle of Bordeaux. The views from this park surely beat any other “park” you might have associated with our state in the past! ▶▶ High Above McNeil Point Shelter on Mt. Hood’s West Side: You can schlep up the steep (hands-on) path to McNeil Shelter from the Top Spur Trail or take the main trail around the south side to reach it, but you cannot camp on these sumptuous meadows. And for good reason: If these highlands are destroyed, the most common reason will be human error. Thus there are designated campsites along the main trails here but you can continue above the shelter to tundra, find a snowmelt stream and enjoy. The alpenglow at sunset on Hood’s west face could revive even the most jaded of worn-out hikers; be sure to identify that most lovely of lupines here as well—Lobb’s, or Lyall’s Lupine, a miniature plant surpassing in jewel-like beauty its more common larger cousins.

You could climb Cathedral Ridge directly from here—we did in the 80’s—but you could also simply bask in the radiant loneliness, above the crowds, and, yes, feel a bit smug about that as well; you’ve earned it. Check out the maps aplenty but don’t mistake the map for the territory; it’s always better up this high. ▶▶ Alpine Lakes/ PCT Trail—Washington State - Alpine Lakes Wilderness: Yes, you have to drive some dirt to get past Cooper Lake (stop here—it’s mandatory for unforgettable views and smart-phone clicks of the five sharp digits belonging to the Lemah Peaks) but even here, at road’s end out of Cle Elum and SalmonLa-Sac, it’s a mostly-level 4-mile riverside hike on Trail Number 1323 into Pete’s Lake, then an uphill stretch on Trail 1329 1½ miles to 1320 and another, less steep 1½ miles to reach tiny, but charming and little-visited Escondido Lake. Don’t stop here, however; the bugs outweigh your pack and you’ve got to get above timberline. Bushwhack due north through light timber (leave room in your backpack for awe) to reach above the forest and, in a scant half mile, you will run into the PCT (without having to take it from Snoqualmie Pass 30 miles to the south or deal with the 30,000 other outdoors folk who do so). Now, just wander the mostly level throughway to a number of rarely-used campsites (no reservations needed here) from which you gaze in wonder at views restricted to only those through-hikers sufficiently brave and hardy to have made it this far from the Mexican border. From this unusual vantage point, you can see the full panoply of the southern Alpine Lakes splendor: Bear’s Breast (don’t ask), Little Big Chief, the sharpened maws of Lemah, Cathedral Rock, Overcoat Peak, the towering Summit Chief, and the final climax of precipitous Chimney Rock, scene of many a rescue of climbers.

Add to this ridge-top vision the scene of scattered gems of water—ponds, lakes, tarns, even puddles, in a kaleidoscope of greens and blues beyond description in any language, above which tumble countless waterfalls, and you have reached campsite nirvana. An easy scramble from this point up the ridge heading west to the summit of Summit Chief, could cap a 3-day adventure not soon forgotten.

▶▶ A Campsite Above the Eily/Wiley Lakes Route to Mt. Challenger—The Pickets—North Cascades National Park: A ridge camp presents rewarding views but also the conundrum of finding running water. Not a problem here. The main obstacle is getting here in the first place. To get the most sweeping views of the most soul-staggering peaks in the lower 48, you must take the boat up Ross Lake to the Big Beaver Trail, then hump gear 13 miles to just short of Beaver Pass. (By all means, avoid the ironically-named “Access Creek” approach—it’s even worse.) Then rest.

The second day is the test: hauling your pack nearly 5,000 ft. through technical brush that has made even Fred Becky cry; but then the reward of surmounting timberline and the sweet travel over heather and meadow (with some talus thrown in) to the ultimate frosting on the North Cascades cake: views above either lake of both the sweeping arcs of the Southern and Northern Pickets, with the snows of Challenger a mere day’s climb away, capping the view north.

Truly, to my old eyes, these vistas make the Tetons look like the Appalachians, the Rockies like worn-down hills and the Sierra like dusty, dry heaps of rock. If you can get a copy of Tabor and Crowder’s Routes and Rocks in the Mt. Challenger Quadrangle, published in the 50’s by the Mountaineers, consider yourself lucky.

This trip is briefly described therein and the accompanying map outlines it.

You could borrow mine, but at a price as steep as these cliffs. It’s out of print and out of circulation. This, the ultimate test-piece for either the Northwest climber or backpacker, must be done when you’re younger than my 76 years so do it as soon as you can, while you still can: As surely as the tide will wash away the most elaborate of our sand-castle dreams, we will all get too old too soon to savor this, the best the lower 48 can offer.

on a trail to a lookout) and you’ll have to haul it over Hannegan Pass at 5 miles, then do the up and down on a partlyforested, partly meadowed trail past Egg Lake at 8 miles. While you could descend 300 ft. to camp at the viewless bug-loving lake, don’t. Continue a few minutes to arrive at one of the two Silesia Campsites, both of which boast the most far-reaching spectacles in this, or any other national park. Of course you are face-to-face with the fence-like Pickets, but there’s so much more: Bear and Redoubt, the former with one of the steepest north faces in the land, while the latter with its famous flying buttress of a southeast ridge; Whatcom Peak just across the valley of the Chilliwack River; and the grand hulks of Baker and the iconic Shuksan, holding more snow and ice per cm than any other peaks in our country outside of Alaska.

Trace the sharp ridges, many as yet untrodden, rising precipitously from the green valleys below and slicing the forests and high meadows, rock and ice through the international boundary to Canada; peaks with names as unfamiliar as they are mysterious: Middle Peak, the Silver Lake monoliths, and the fang (sorry—there’s no other adjective in any language sufficient to describe it) of Slesse, impenetrable for punters like me, more of an aspiration than a reality, yet summited by only the most talented among us. Take the next day to summit Copper Mountain and see one of the few remaining manned fire lookouts in the National Park. Exclamation points were invented for these views.

Yes, these opinions are opinionated but I still don’t think you should miss an opportunity to miss these opportunities. It’s (erroneously) said we use only 10 percent of our brains; take these trips and you will be employing 100 percent of your soul.

▶▶ Silesia Camp on the route to Copper Mountain—North Cascades National Park: You must make a reservation in Marblemount or at the Mt. Baker Ranger Station in Glacier and you’d best do it now or as soon as they’ll let you—for the 2017 or 2018 seasons. They’re all gone for this year—and for good reason. Yes, you will have to carry your full pack (though no climbing gear—Copper Mountain is

OCTOBER 2016 17

BARKING UP THE RIGHT TREES: A weekend of fun and learning at Bark Base Camp

by Wendy Currie-Marshall 2016

T

he tinny strings and strident voices of a street rock band issued from a rickety white canopy. On this late July day, the temperature danced around ninety as I made my routine run to the local farmers' market, dodging a stream of bicyclists on a Portland Sunday Parkways ride. En route home, I stopped for a better look.

An organization called Bark hosted the band. I cringed, giggling at the righteously (make that rabidly)

18 MAZAMAS

progressive, eco-focused lyrics, but marveled at the table display of beautiful samples of forest life: mushrooms, lichens, bark and leaves, carefully labeled. Thus I discovered Base Camp, a free, volunteer-run camp dedicated to teaching people about the Mt. Hood National Forest, as well as the reasons and methods for preserving federal lands. I envisioned the camp as potentially a lot of dirty, twiggy elbow grease ... and a lot of fun.

The Mazamas Conservation Committee

supports Bark, including Base Camp. Active since 1999, Bark has taught hundreds of volunteers about forest policy and saved thousands of acres of forest by grassroots action, even halting construction of the Palomar liquid petroleum pipeline in 2011.

Base Camp was Bark's first event of this kind, which united multiple organizations focused on awareness and conservation for a pair of two-week sessions (two weeks is the maximum length of time allowed for camping in the Mt. Hood Wilderness). Blue Mountains Biodiversity Project, 350.org, and Plant for the Planet were a few of the groups involved. As one team leader said, "We can be more effective if we pool our resources than if we work on our own."

My chance to join Base Camp Session II finally came: Labor Day Weekend. One appeal of Base Camp for me was flexibility.

The camp's rolling schedule allowed participants to arrive at any time, help as needed, and leave when convenient.

Even people with one free day wouldn't be turned away. And so, though always nervous when packing for camp, I happily geared up. Warm clothes, check. Mess kit, check. Nutty vegan chocolate-chip übercookies of my own recipe, check (I anticipated meeting a few vegan activist tree-huggers and packed to share). Base Camp had its own list, as a volunteer-run camp needs donated supplies to keep going (among the items: "COFFEE!!"), so along with my tent, I pitched in toilet paper and a bag of farmers' market apples.

A carpool webpage helped me arrange a ride. Wide open, with plenty of anticipation but no expectations, I found myself befriending a fellow medicinal herbalist as we left Estacada behind and drove into the wilderness.

The focus of Base Camp Session II, from Aug. 30 to Sept. 13, was the proposed Hunter "Integrated Resource Project"—fancy language for "timber sale." During my three days at Base Camp, I learned the National Forest Service has at least thirteen phrases that mean "clearcut." Many, such as "regeneration harvest" and "visual diversity area," sound innocuous, even pleasant. But part of the Hunter sale is critical habitat for endangered Northern Spotted Owls. A slew of new logging roads, meanwhile, could put water quality and fish habitat at risk.

A primary goal of Bark's mission is known as groundtruthing, which involves walking a proposed project site and gathering facts about species, land features, streams, and other critical data. The findings can reveal discrepancies in official agency documents and what's actually happening in the woods, giving validity to arguments against logging. But good groundtruthing takes a lot of people-power, which is where volunteers jump in.

I barely got a glimpse of camp before stepping off the beaten path into action.

Labor Day Weekend had been designated Climate Change Weekend, with special activities, presentations and guest speakers. A forest hike, led by an educator from the Center for Sustainable Economy, was setting out just as I arrived. After reaching the Hunter timber sale, we

counted off for safety. A group of fifty, we were all colors, ages and genders. Half a dozen children ran among us, which I found a welcome addition. We were first shown a stand of old growth, mainly hemlock and douglas fir. The air felt cool and rich; the soil was springy beneath our shoes. Adults guided a boy from stepping on a rare plant, striped like a candy cane. Pacific Northwest old growth has the highest carbon-sequestering power of any type of forest in the world: every hectare can store the carbon equivalent of the gasoline in over six thousand cars.

By contrast, as we moved into a swath of young, sickly-looking lodgepole pine, the soil turned harder, and the air noticeably warmed. This patch had been logged twice since the 1950s—and was slated for clearcutting yet again. The Forest Service tried planting douglas fir here, but failed; this thin, damaged soil will now support nothing but lodgepole pine, which is prone to disease and stores carbon poorly.

Worse, for the first ten to fifteen years after clearcutting, a patch of land actually becomes a carbon emitter, adding to global warming. Lunch and a fun song got me into the spirit of camp, but I still felt unease from the scraggly trees around me.

Returning to camp, I found the makings of a fine fireside evening—a pile of books and musical instruments. I kicked back with a cold one (non-alcoholic, as kids were present), cookies, and Plants of the Pacific Northwest, in which I found my new friends Vanilla Leaf and Candy Stick. Next, Bark activist Audie Fuller rallied us for a lecture on methods of climate change activism, then we divided into little groups for brainstorming and discussion. Two international guests, Julio from Haiti and Mukta from Bangladesh, described in painful detail the effects of deforestation in their countries, ranging from vanishing islands to a nationwide polluting of drinking water. But we didn't let heavy topics stop us from enjoying a sumptuous cooked meal, plus salad and dessert, courtesy of Base Camp's wonderful kitchen volunteers. As the sky dimmed above the cathedral of ancient trees, I dug out the vegan marshmallows I'd brought for s'mores, and we played tunes until, one by one, the forest called us to bed.

Next day, after a generous breakfast, Missy and Grady of Portland-based Arctos School of Herbalism led another hike.

We followed a decommissioned, partly

overgrown logging road in search of edible wild plants, from invasive St. John's Wort in cleared spaces, to elusive Wild Ginger.

Even as I, an herbalist myself, absorbed new information gratefully in the peace of the forest, I became aware of a wilderness dynamic that's so common, so frequently underfoot, that it gets overlooked: roads.

Mazamas Stewardship and Advocacy Manager Adam Baylor stresses the need to focus on roads in our conservation efforts; only now did I fully understand why.

The Mt. Hood National Forest contains 3000 miles of access and logging roads, but as anyone who's driven in the backcountry knows, their conditions vary widely. Last year, the U.S. Forest Service only had funds to repair sixteen percent of these roads. Low maintenance leads to washout of roads during storms and landslides, creating sediments that clog streams and rivers, suffocate endangered salmon and other aquatic life, and raise the cost of treatment for municipal drinking water.

Yet the presence of a road at all increases future chances of logging in an area, and it takes years for the forest to revegetate the packed ground of a former route—as I saw myself, the disturbance alters the plant community, and can open the way to invasive species. An even more basic concern is our use of the road system, and the economy it fosters. Logging no longer brings home the paycheck it once did, while tourism and outdoor sports industries are thriving. Even as interest in outdoor recreation grows along with population, the Forest Service's ability to provide safe access to recreational areas is decreasing; our escape to the wilderness is literally washing away.

It's a problem Bark has addressed for decades. According to Russ Plaeger, Restoration Coordinator for Bark, our biggest challenge is to identify which roads are used most often, providing the greatest benefit to the community, then to preserve and maintain them. Meanwhile, less frequented routes and old logging roads should be decommissioned, or closed off and allowed to melt back into the forest.

It's a process of prioritizing, of pruning and downsizing—never an easy task, and in this case a huge one, but essential. "If we don't choose which roads we want to keep," Russ told me, "nature may choose for us."

He related an incident last month, when he visited Goat Rocks Wilderness area

continued on next page OCTOBER 2016 19

BARKING, continued from previous page of Gifford Pinchot National Forest, a place he has spent years exploring. Tons of soil and rock had washed out, leaving the road impassable. He and Adam Baylor both urged the Forest Service to address the issue of road quality and safety; however, a travelanalysis effort in Washington, D.C. to decide the proper scope of a road system in terms of ecological management and funds for rebuilding concluded a year ago without result. So-called "rightsizing" wasn't realized.

Russ highlighted the need for community input. "The problem is, every road is special to somebody," he said. "Maybe it leads to one person's spot for collecting huckleberries with their aunt."

By contrast, the trailhead past Lost Creek Campground, near Zig Zag, Oregon, is heavily used. Russ visited it in 2014, to find its gravel span getting steadily wider as drivers dodged potholes. "A young woman stopped, rolled down her window and said, 'It's why I rent a car when I go to the forest!'" he told me, laughing.

He spoke to a ranger, and the road was improved. When Russ mentioned Top Spur trailhead, which I had visited only the previous weekend and found to be very busy, I described how our rally-trained driver had turned pothole dodging into an art.

Yet neither of us thought to alert a forest ranger about the road's conditions. The issue is clearly one of both safety and economy.

Citing a case near Hood River, Russ said the importance of tourism and recreation cannot be overstated—it draws new companies to a region, boosting employment and diversity.

"This is big business," he added. Safer roads, leading to properly managed wilderness, are a priority that will benefit us all.

Helping is surprisingly easy. The more information the Forest Service collects, the easier it will be to decide which roads are of high benefit and should remain, versus which can be decommissioned and returned to the wild. Next time you have an adventure, log onto the Mt. Hood National Forest website, www.fs.usda.gov/mhthood (or, if you're in another wilderness area, substitute it for the tag, i.e. /willamette, /deschutes, etc.).

You'll find contact info in the side-bar, plus a "Contact Us" email form where you can submit a comment. "Don't forget, these guys get a lot of complaints," Russ pointed out, "so thanks and positive comments about good road conditions or other issues are just as helpful."

As our hike with Arctos concluded, we carefully skirted the gully blocking the mouth of the old logging road, now filled with flowers. I spent another happy evening at Base Camp, enjoying more delicious food as I watched a group of kids and teens from Plant for the Planet receive their certificates of achievement. A new generation, working for climate change and global justice.

And I learned a new word: afforestation. By the end of that day, I'd hugged a few trees myself. While pit-dug latrines are not my favorite facilities, I still felt reluctant to leave. The next morning, as my friend and I drove toward Bagby Hot Springs—swerving around a road washout as we went—I'd already begun plotting ways to return.

20 MAZAMAS

CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE

W

e lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net, or Executive Council liaison Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas. org, 503-227-0974, or classics@ mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN OCTOBER If you are interested in leading an event next month, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert by Oct. 12 so it can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

OCT. 17: 4T TRAIL HIKE (TRAIN, TRAIL, TRAM, TROLLEY) Meeting place and time: The Oregon Zoo at the 4T trail kiosk near the east end of the MAX

elevator at 9:30 a.m. You can buy a Tri-met all day pass here; senior fare: $2.50, non-senior: $5.

From the zoo we will follow the 4T signs on the forested trail. This trail is about 4.1 miles long and has about a 800 foot elevation gain. Dress for the weather and wear good shoes— there could be some mud. With luck and good weather we could have some great views from the top of Council Crest and some nice fall colors. This hike will take about 3 hours. Bring water and snacks.

From the trail we will emerge at OHSU. We'll take the tram down to the south waterfront.

This will take about 3 minutes.

Next we will take the trolley from the waterfront to downtown Portland where we will transfer to the MAX for the trip back to the zoo.

We will pick a place for lunch on this trip. At OHSU we will walk by their cafeteria or there are many fine places downtown.

Hope for good weather.

Leader: Buzz Lindahl. 503781-8956, erlindahl@gmail.com.

visitor center at 10 a.m. Enjoy the fall colors on an easy stroll of the arboretum. About 3 miles with less than 300 feet of elevation gain/loss. Free for Classics, others $2.

Leader: Marty Hanson, 503-227-0974, martyhanson@ mazamas.org.

DEC. 16: CLASSICS HOLIDAY PARTY AT NOON AT THE MMC New 25- and 50-year members will receive their pins. Congratulations, new members!

NEW 25-YEAR MEMBERS (MEMBERS SINCE 1992) Mitchell Auerbach, David Bass, Joyce Bonds, Joe Boyce, Gerald Brown, Liza Burney, Richard Conser, Monte Edwards, Karen Eichhorn,

Chris Dearth, Stanley Enevoldsen, Craig Gass, Cathy and Drew Gaylord, Kenneth Glover, Jeff Golden, Nancy Graff, Tim Hale, Michael Hauty, Eric Hoem, Robert Joy, Kenneth Martin, Janet McCall, KenMichel, Sarah Munro, Rahul Ravel, Michael Rosenbaum, Skip Smith, Laurence Spiegel, Jerry Stelmack, Sandra Suttie, Paul Tratnyek, Krisiti Vaughn, Lou Whittaker, Glenn Widener, Marcus Wood, Jeff Wright NEW 50-YEAR MEMBERS (MEMBERS SINCE 1967) William Amos, Cara and Patrick Crowder, Patrick Feeney, William Firstenburg, Brian Holcomb, Donna Kurilo, Dennis Mead, Deryl Richter, Richard Shipley, Lois Stroup, Carol Strick Swain, Phyllis Thorne

OCT. 24: CLASSICS MEETING 11 A.M., MMC Come meet Marty Hanson, your new Executive Council liaison. We will be planning fall events and looking for new events and other leaders. You are always welcome to attend our meetings. We usually meet at 11 a.m. at the MMC on the last Monday of the month, every other month.

OCT. 31: CLASSICS MEETING 11 A.M., MMC Meet at Hoyt Arboretum OCTOBER 2016 21

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS August 4, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge.

Leader: Amy Brose, Asst: Bill Stein. Mee Choe, Nicole Coppi, Val Kargin, Denise Kuhnhausen, Anna Lio, Phil Wich August 12, Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Leader: Rebecca Madore, Asst: Valerie Uskoski. Bianca Pyko August 13, Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat.

Leader: Lori Freeman-LaDuke, Asst: Stephen Kingsbury. Pam Bishop, Anne Boeder, Maureen Delaney, Kelli Horvath, Richard LaDuke, Monica Lyster, A'Lissa Richards, Courtney Rust, Angelika Schaefer, Shelley Searle August 13, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Morgan Harvey. Bhoomi Bhanvadia, Amy Brose, Laetitia Bruneau, Ryan Gwillim, Dave Helzer, Craig Karls, Samantha Matthews, Lindsey Mayo August 13, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier.

Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Pushkar Dixit. Jennifer Cox, Miranda Marlow, Chaitanya Sathe, Kristofel Simbajon August 14, South Sister, Green Lakes. Leader: Amy Brose, Asst: Morgan Harvey. Gary Ballou, Bhoomi Bhanvadia, Laetitia Bruneau, Ryan Gwillim, Dave Helzer, Craig Karls, Gary Riggs, Samantha Matthews August 14, Sahale Peak, Cascade Pass– Sahale Arm. Leader: Rebecca Madore, Asst: Valerie Uskoski. Wendy Leone, Ben Taylor August 14, Broken Top, Green Lakes- NW Ridge. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Joe Petsche.

Debbie Dwelle, Katy Hagert, Phil Lamb, Rosa Lehman, Merissa Moeller, Saachi Murthy, Richard Urban, Jeffrey Walls August 14, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier.

Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Christopher Killmer.

Kalene Ardt, Chris Brox, Jonathan Casanova, Mary Godwin, Christine Hadekel, Jack Kuo, Thomas Ulrich, Karen Vernier August 15, Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier.

Leader: James Jula, Asst: Bianca Pyko. Amad Doratotaj, John Dwyer, Matt Kruger, Brian Murray, Lisa Oakland, Anna Revolinsky August 16, Grays & Torreys Peaks, traverse.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Martin Gillen. Gowri Chitloor Parthasarathy, Tammie Gillen, Paul Mumm, Jan Schmidt, Ron Schmidt August 16, Fremont, Frozen Lake. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Kelly Bacon, Gregg Baker, Cecille Beyl, Charles Brasher, Larry Murry August 18, Decalibron, Decalibron Traverse.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Martin Gillen. Gowri Chitloor Parthasarathy, Tammie Gillen, Paul Munn, Jan Schmidt, Ron Schmidt August 18, Yakima Peak, N. Chute. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Kelly Bacon, Gregg Baker, Cecille Beyl, Charles Brasher, Michael Dahlin, Nancy Lloyd, Larry Murry August 19, Cowlitz Chimney, Panhandle Gap. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Doug Couch. Rick Craycraft, Kate Evans

22 MAZAMAS

August 20, Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Standard. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Joe Petsche. Erin Beyer, Karine Godin, Michelle Harvey, Marjorie Hendryx, Merissa Moeller, Tom Noonan, Lisa Oakland, Ken Park, Joan Wallace August 20, North Sister, South Ridge. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Michael Levis. Bertie August, Judith Baker, Patrice Cook, Brad Hupy, Yevgeniy Mayevskiy, Lynne Pedersen, Leslie Shotola, Larry Welsh August 20, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Shane Harlson. Pradheepa Krishnasamy, Christine Petersen, Guy Wettstein August 20, Gearhart Mountain, Gearhart Trail. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Heather Campbell.

Jennifer Cox, Wendy Leone, Donna Vandall, Amy Vaniotis August 21, Drake-Crook Peaks, Drake-Crook Traverse. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Donna Vandall. Heather Campbell, Jennifer Cox August 21, Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jonathan Myers. Ardel Frick, Jean Hillebrand, Sandee Myers, Rachel Nolan, Charles Reneau, Lee Siebert August 21, Goat Island Mountain, East Ridge.

Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Joe Petsche. Erin Beyer, Morgan Harvey, Marjorie Hendryx, Merissa Moeller, Tom Noonan, Lisa Oakland, Ken Park, Joan Wallace August 21, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Benjamin Swerdlow. Kerra Blakely, Patrick Clark, Bill Guiffre, Stephen Kingsbury, Mark Korsness, Erika Markel, Michael O'Brien August 23, Handies Peak, SW Slope. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Tom Davidson. Ann Marie Ames, Ann Brodie-Knope, Gregory Clark, Amad Doratotaj, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Karen Graves, Mary Green, Dana Lucero, Stan Meeuwsen August 24, Sunshine, NW Face. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Tom Davidson. Ann Brodie-Knope, Gregory Clark, Amad Doratotaj, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Karen Graves, Mary Green, Dana Lucero, Stan Meeuwsen August 24, Redcloud, NE Ridge. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Tom Davidson. Ann Brodie-Knope, Gregory Clark, Amad Doratotaj, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Karen Graves, Mary Green, Dana Lucero, Stan Meeuwsen August 25, Uncomaphgre, Nellie Creek.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Stan Meeuwsen. Ann Marie Ames, Ann Brodie-Knope, Amad Doratotaj, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Karen Graves, Mary Green, Dana Lucero August 26, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Todd Perimon. Anna Buckley, Lindsay Higa, Jonathan House, Tatsuro Ogisu, Nicholas Ostini, Trey Schutrumpf, Rikki Seguin, Andrew Winterman August 27, South Sister, Devil's Lake. Leader: Eric Einspruch, Asst: Lori Freeman-LaDuke. Anne Boeder, Sue Dimin, Joe Kaufman, Richard LaDuke, Mark Metzger, A'Lissa Richards, Courtney Rust, Jun Wang

August 27, Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Alan Papesh.

Danielle Allen, Michael Levis, Kathleen Morrison, Bryan Oates, David Roche, Katherine Rogers August 27, Fields, Moore & Moon Mts., Fields Traverse. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Patrice Cook.

Andrew Bodien, Brad Hupy, Dana Knickerbocker, Kristofel Simbajon, Lawrence Solomon August 27, Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Eric Brainich. Sherry Aanerud, Judith Baker, Larry Buzan, Rick Craycraft, Duncan Hart August 28, Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Matt Fogarty. Jennifer Cox, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Alan Papesh, Stacey Reding, Tamara Ross, Kaitlin Rupert, Chaitanya Sathe, Karen Vernier, Ethan Wood August 28, Indian Springs Butte, Onion Creek. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Andrew Bodien.

Dana Knickerbocker, Kristofel Simbajon, Lawrence Solomon September 4, Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Stacia Torborg. Rick Busing, Anthony Carr, Isaac Etter, Bill Guiffre, Rebecca Hsu, Hannah Payton, Dawn Van Seggen September 4, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wal. Leader: James Jula, Asst: Suzi Rubino. Karen Graves, Andrew Leaf, James Pitkin, Ryan Reed, Jorgen Rufner September 4, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge.

Leader: Elizabeth Copeland, Asst: Bruce Yatvin.

Frank Gorshe, Kristen Massimino, Thomas Mynes, Dale Novotny, Courtney Rust, Ellen Simmons, Michael Wade, Micah Wade September 4, South Sister, Devil's Lake.

Leader: George Shay, Asst: Rae Lantsberger. Jillian Clinton, Eric Lonsbury, Bryan Oates, Robert Straub September 7, Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Jesse Applegate.

Michael Austin, Ashley Driscoll, Bill Guiffre, Barry O'Mahony, Suresh Singh, Matthew Waddell September 10, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: John Nuttbrock. Jennifer Johnson, David Lorang, Lauren Mason, Anibal Rocheta, Jessica Sheets, Lydia Smith, Antonio Tatum September 10, North Sister, South Ridge.

Leader: Jill Kellogg, Asst: Joe Powell. Jennifer Cox, Rick Craycraft, Daniel Gibson, Shemuel Harding, Tamara Ross, Ethan Wood September 10, Diamond Peak, South Ridge.

Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Elizabeth Pedersen. John Dwyer, Jack Kuo, Ralph Oyler, Tony Spiering, Russell Turner September 11, Mt. Yoran, Standard. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Elizabeth Pedersen. John Dwyer, Jack Kuo, Ralph Oyler, Russell Turner September 11, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Guy Wettstein. Harry Colas, Rachel Foxhoven, Josh Hay, Michelle McKelvey, Jessica Minifie, Becky Nelson, Kalen Turner September 11, Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Elizabeth Copeland. Patrick Aitchison, Sean Moriarty, Jeff Nastoff, Roger Sharp, Helene Simon

Mazama Leader Completes 50 State Highpoints

by Rick Craycraft David Zeps first publicly revealed his aspirations to go to the top of all 50 state highpoints over beers in Talkeetna, Alaska with his Denali climbing partners in 2012.

He had already led highpoints Borah Peak (ID), Granite Peak (MT) and Gannett Peak (WY) as Mazama cclimbs and had done Mt. Whitney as a private climb with his son-in-law. He joined the Mazamas in 1991, became a climb leader in 1998, and received his 16 Peaks Award in 1998, which includes the highpoints of Oregon and Washington. By the time he returned from a successful ascent of Denali he had, in his words, “a great travel project of the remaining 43 highpoints.” Many of these highpoints were done with his wife Margaret, who has 24 highpoints of her own. David successfully completed the fifty state highpoints on Guadalupe Peak in Texas last June on his 71st birthday.

Like any highpointer David has tales to tell of his various adventures. Of Denali he says, “Denali was tough but with decent

weather and timely reassurances from our great guides, I made the summit.

Being surrounded by the pink midnight light on the summer solstice at 14,000 feet was particularly memorable, as was the relief, after three weeks of snow and rock, of seeing green vegetation as we flew from the Kahiltna Glacier back to Talkeetna.”

Other memories include “On Mt. Marcy (NY) the last ¾ mile was plastered with rime ice and water ice on the trail, a very windy and surprising effort; the 3rd class route on Chicken Out Ridge on Borah Peak was difficult to find and I almost turned around; a Nissan Versa and a shovel can get you places that surprise some 4x4 drivers, such as on Queen Mine Road on Boundary Peak (NV); Mt. Elbert (CO) seems very crowded when 150 guys from a men’s support group are climbing with you; the trail on Mt. Rogers (VA) can be very disorienting in the fog at dusk.”

David attributes much of his success in this endeavor to his experience in the

Mazamas as a climbing party member, a climb leader and hike leader. He is now only one of three active Mazama members to have completed the fifty state highpoints, as well as two other people who were members in the past. His future plans at this point include Kilimanjaro and Pico Turquino, the highpoint of Cuba.

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Mazamas Avoid Doom & Fix Climber Trails in Yosemite

by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager

I

n January 1953, the Mazamas published an article titled, the “Impending Doom of Yosemite Valley.” The author echoed a sentiment that many people felt at the time, Yosemite National Park was being loved to death. The article points out that the Park received more than one million visitors that year. No doubt, El Capitan and Half Dome, waterfalls, giant trees, verdant meadows, abundant wildlife, and transcendental sunsets attracted the masses. And to think, all of those visitors arrived before the golden age of climbing in Yosemite! Indeed, the impending doom of Yosemite Valley was a changing landscape evident to climbers for the next 50 years.

Today, the Park receives more than four million visitors per year typically between May and September. Given the popularity of rock climbing throughout the United States, it’s safe to say that our favorite activity has an impact on the Park’s ecosystems and watersheds. So the need to fix worn out trails to popular climbs is more important than ever to avoid impending doom.

That’s why the Mazamas, for a fourth year in a row, coalesced a group of volunteers to work on high-elevation climber trails in Tuolumne Meadows. The 2016 Mazama Climber Steward trip took place from Sept. 4–16 and was open to all members as well as general public. Our goals were simple: mitigate erosion to popular climber trails and climb amazing alpine rock.

The specific trail project for the 2016 climber steward trip was to stop erosion near the base of popular climbs on the Phobos and Deimos Cliff. The volunteers spent four days high above Tenaya Lake with great views of Cathedral Peak and Eichorn’s Pinnacle. Seven volunteers made the hike each morning to the base of the cliff, carried tools and packs to the work site and received direct supervision from

24 MAZAMAS

Yosemite National Park Rangers and Trail Crew.

One of the key volunteers was Sharon Birchfield who returned to Tuolumne for her third climber steward trip. Now a veteran of this nascent Mazama program, Birchfield said that she thinks this is one of our best programs and hopes that more people will take advantage of the opportunity. Volunteers receive gate passes to enter the park as well as free camping.

Transportation and meals not included.

During our four days off, climber stewards paired up and set out on adventures into the high country of Tuolumne. Three teams summited Cathedral Peak, (5.6*) to an elevation of 10, 911 feet. Another team climbed the Matthes Crest Traverse (5.7). Of course, everyone enjoyed cragging and bouldering at nearby domes easily accessible from the Tuolumne Meadows campground.

Climbing Rangers such as Cameron King, Eric Bissell, Brandon Adams and Lead Climbing Ranger Brandon Latham provided any training requested by our team and were always stoked to put a rope on much harder climbs!

For 2017, Mazamas can expect two more climber steward trips: one in Yosemite

Valley (probably late May) and another in Tuolumne Meadows (September).

The reason we can continue to plan on this volunteer opportunity is through the creation of a Memorandum of Understanding with Yosemite National Park. For the last few years, we have worked directly with Park staff to spell out our relationship. The final document (MOU) was signed by Superintendent Don Neubacher. The MOU will soon be available to all Mazamas and the public to learn more about this program. It sets in motion a planning process at the beginning of each year with Yosemite staff and Mazamas to get more volunteers in the Park fixing trails, climbing, as well as teaching responsible outdoor ethics.

For more information about Mazama Climber Steward opportunities both in Yosemite and locally, contact Adam@ Mazamas.org.

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a threepart system used for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs. It is primarily used by mountaineers in the United States and Canada.

The Class 5 portion of the Class scale is primarily a rock climbing classification system, while the Classes 1-3 are used mainly in hiking and trail running.

Clockwise, from far left: Climber stewards Adam Baylor, Alden Wilson, and Yosemite Climbing Ranger Cameron Wilson enjoy a day off from trail work on the summit of Cathedral Peak, September 8, 2016.

Volunteer David Goldring takes the sharp end on the easy part of NW Books, Tuolumne Meadows, Sept. 2016. Mazama Bulletin cover from 1953 discusses the human impact on Yosemite National Park. A view of Cathedral Peak from Budd Lake which is off limits to overnight camping but a great water source before or after a climb. Climber stewards, Yosemite National Park climbing rangers, and trail crew members work on the approach to Goldfinger (5.12) on the Phobos/Deimos Cliffs.

Photos: Adam Baylor

OCTOBER 2016 25

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS Wednesday Programs begin on Oct. 12 at 7 p.m.

We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Programs are free and open to the general public; a small donation at the door is at your discretion.

Off The Beaten African Path Wednesday, Oct. 12 Author and guide Peter Baxter shares his outdoor-lovers’ Africa: the unique ecosystems leading to the summit of Kilimanjaro, fly-fishing streams and trails in South Africa’s Drakensburg range, exploring the breathtaking wildflower region of South Africa, Tanzania’s Big-5 wildlife safaris, and the exotic history of Zanzibar’s powder-white beaches. Born in Kenya and raised in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), Peter’s career began with guiding adventurous tourists deep into the natural beauty of the Chimanimani mountains and through the African bush. His adventurous nature and anecdotal style have made him a popular speaker with cruise lines, lodges and special interest groups.

Photo: Peter Baxter

Mt. Rainier Fumarole Cave Project Wednesday, Oct. 19 The Mt. Rainier Fumarole Cave Project is an integrated study of the various processes and ecology of one of the largest volcanic crater glacier cave systems in the world. Unlike regular rock caves, or even conventional glacier caves, such as those on Mt. Hood, the geomorphology of fumarole caves are driven by a complex suite of processes, including climate, geothermal, geochemistry, and airflow, working in concert to form and change the cave system year by year, and sometime week by week. The caves not only contain laboratories for astrobiology, climatology, and hydrochemistry, but may well serve as an indicator to changing behavior of this dangerous volcano. The extensive mapping efforts will also assist rescuers in the event of an incident in these caves, which are visited by climbers regularly. Listen to the latest update on this ongoing study in one of the most inhospitable environments in the US. Eddy Cartaya, the project coordinator, will guide you on a photo and video journey of this incredible cave system, and share the challenges and success of the team that work there to gather this valuable data.

Photo: Eddy Cartaya

Cuba: Amidst Ongoing Change Wednesday, Oct. 26 Byron Rendar travelled to Cuba in February 2016. He walked and talked to people while sightseeing. As well as showing photos of Cuba, he will discuss how to visit Cuba independently, including the logistics of visiting and some of the ways Cubans cope.

Photo: Byron Rendar

Low-to-High Africa: An Adventure Presentation Wednesday, Nov. 2 In 2011 Kyle Henning embarked on a solo, human-powered adventure by bicycle and on foot 1,800 miles through Africa—from the lowest point on the continent to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Kyle reflects on the motivations, obsessions, successes, and failures of his younger self on a personal mission through the unknown. Presentation followed by Q&A.

Photo: Kyle Henning

26 MAZAMAS

Mazama Climb Awards

Take Your Place in Mazama History

Every year the Mazamas recognizes climbing accomplishments and gives out climbing awards in various categories. The Climbing Committee is now accepting applications for all climbing awards. All qualifying climbs for these awards must be successful official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS ▶▶ Guardian Peaks: Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. ▶▶ Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. ▶▶ Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan.

LEADER AWARDS ▶▶ Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks ▶▶ 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

All qualified applicants are encouraged to apply. Application deadline is Oct. 15. Submit your application (including scanned copies of your summit certificates) online. Login to the Mazama Member section of the website, click on Awards, and then Awards–Climbing.

From stories of climbing and hiking adventures, to conservation and research articles, to stunning photos, we need your contributions tothe 2016 Mazama Annual! Each year the Mazamas compiles articles, administrative reports, committee reports, and photographs— consider it our "Mazama Yearbook" —and creates a beautiful book that you'll enjoy reading time and time again. Take your place in Mazama history by contributing your voice and images to this volume. Send content to mazama.annual@mazamas.org by Nov. 15.

Photo: Ken Etze

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OCTOBER 2016 27

TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas. org/activities-events/hikeschedule/ for updates!

BP Oct 01 (Sat) PCT Indian Springs to Cascade Locks. Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is a 20-mile, two-day backpack on the Pacific Crest Trail from Indian Springs to Cascade Locks. We will camp on Saturday night and reach Cascade Locks on Sunday. We will need at least two vehicles (the leader's plus one more) for the shuttle. Will cancel if the weather forecast is ugly, but hoping for a great fall trip. Please contact leader if you wish to go.

HK B1.5 Oct 01 (Sat) Indian Heaven (Placid/Bear). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike past Placid Lake on Chenemus Lake Trail to Bear Lake and return on Placid Lake Trail. Fall colors. No sign-up list. 10 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 148, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (WO) HK C2 Oct 01 (Sat) Salmon Butte Trail. David Nelson dkbmnelson@

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g.

1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a mod28 MAZAMAS

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

Wilderness—Limit 12. indicates that the hike enters a Forest Servicedesignated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Hike through old-growth forest and ascend into an abundance of rhododendrons and beargrass. The many switchbacks on nice trail lead to views of Mts. Hood, Adams, Jefferson, St. Helens, the Three Sisters, and Mt. Rainier (weather dependent). We will have lunch at the top before heading back down. Fall season so remember the 10 essentials and warm clothes.

First come, first served, or contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com. 12 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 90, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

TT Oct 01 (Sat) Timberline Trail Eliot Crossing Reroute. Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@mentor. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Do you hike the Timberline Trail? Would you like to hike the Eliot Crossing again? Come help us finish the new Eliot Crossing on the NE flanks of Mt. Hood. We'll be working with the PCTA, Trail Keepers, and the Forest Service to reconnect the Timberline erate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING Everyone is welcome.

See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/aym/

Trail across the Eliot. We need about 15 volunteers. More details to come. 5 mi., 1,000 Ft., Drive 150, TH, Gateway 6:30 a.m. (AR,MH) MU HK B2.5 Oct 02 (Sun) Cape Horn.

Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Beautiful fall loop hike on the Washington side of the Gorge. Great views from many vantage points. Please bring clothing/ layers for all weather. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Oct 05 (Wed) Tillamook Forest—Wilson River Trail.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. We will hike from the Kings Mountain trailhead through the forest to the Tillamook Forestry Center. This area has totally re-grown since the fires in the 30s.

Car Shuttle. 8 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 120, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Oct 08 (Sat) Eightmile Creek Loop. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Loop hike Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people

STREET RAMBLES

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

on the east side of Mt. Hood with a lookout tower. If favorable weather for a view, will add a mile of hiking to Perry Point. 6.2 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 190, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK C2 Oct 09 (Sun) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Tom Eggers 503-334-6356. Waterfalls, woods, and (maybe) vistas. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Join us for a long hike with a little bit of everything—wonderful waterfalls on the lower trail, Multnomah Creek, towering trees and maybe, if the weather cooperates, panoramic views of neighboring volcanoes from Sherrard Point. Lots of elevation spread out over a long day (plan on 8 hours on the trail). Bring clothes/gear suitable for the weather, including a headlamp. Group will stay together.

Call leader if you have questions. 13.8 mi., 4,100 Ft., Drive 48, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR,GH,WO) MU HK B2 Oct 12 (Wed) Nesmith Ridge to Corky's Corner. Rex Breunsbach

per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will climb steeply up the ridge on a seldom used trail to Corky’s Corner then return via the Nesmith trail.

Good conditioner—bring traction and come prepared for any kind of weather. 8 mi., 2,750 Ft., Drive 75, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH,WO) HK A1.5 Oct 16 (Sun) Ft. Vancouver, Land Bridge, and Waterfront. Jim Selby 828-5085094. We will meet at Ft. Vancouver National Historic Site, Evergreen & Reserve—Vancouver, Washington.

We will tour Officers Row, recently rehabbed barracks buildings, and the Red Cross building. Then to Mother Joseph's Academy building, through downtown, and the farmers market (can get lunch there). On to the new waterfront development, east along the Columbia River all the way to Wendy the Welder statue, stop at coffee shop, return to Ft. by way of Corps of Discovery Land Bridge with Maya Lin artwork. Leisurely pace, done around 3 p.m. 5 mi., 150 Ft., Drive 0, meet at Ft. Vancouver NHS 10:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Oct 19 (Wed) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls).

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. One of my favorite hikes in the gorge. This trail has a little of everything, waterfalls, old growth, talus, mushrooms, and a great viewpoint at the top. Note this

hike qualifies for three award points.

Awesome Ridges, Gorge Hikes, and Wild Ones. Plan on a longer day. 13.8 mi., 4,100 Ft., Drive 48, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH,WO) HK C2 Oct 22 (Sat) Devils Peak Lookout via Cool Creek. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike offers a great workout. We will hike up the Cool Creek trail to the old fire lookout. Have lunch, explore the lookout and enjoy the views before hiking back down. Great views of Mts. Hood, Adams, and Jefferson, if weather permits. Fall season so remember the 10 essentials and warm clothes. Trekking poles a plus.

Contact leader for meeting location and to reserve your spot. 8.2 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 84, TH, 7:30 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 23 (Sun) HardyHamilton. Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. Email RSVP required by Sat., Oct. 22. Ascend Hardy Ridge then re-ascend Hamilton Mountain on a loop hike. A lot of up and down, with stellar hiking and spectacular views. Discover Pass required for each vehicle. 11.4 mi., 3,080 Ft., Drive 72, State Park, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(AR,GH) HK A2 Oct 26 (Wed) Mt. Talbert.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Close in quickie hike. We will hike all the trails on Mt. Tabor and take a look at a lava cave. 6 mi., 1,500 Ft., Drive 15, Gateway 8 a.m. MU

HK A2 Oct 29 (Sat) Falls Creek Falls (Lower), Panther Creek Falls. Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@ mentor.com. This is a photo-friendly hike. Limit 12. This hike takes you to the lower tier of Falls Creek Falls, which is among the largest and most powerful waterfall in southern Washington. Originating on the Red Mountain plateau, Falls Creek sends a considerable volume of water hurtling 335 feet over its valley. We'll also stop by for a very short hike to beautiful Panther Creek Falls. 4 mi., 640 Ft., Drive 120, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF) MU HK B2 Oct 30 (Sun) Devils Rest via Angels Rest. Regis Krug 503704-6442/regis_krug@mentor.com.

Classic hike to Angel's and Devil's Rest in the Gorge. Maybe we'll see a few Halloween gremlins at Devil's Rest? Costumes are optional. 8.4 mi., 2,600 Ft., Drive 42, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF) MU HK A1.5 Oct 31 (Mon) Hoyt fall colors. Marty Hanson 503-227-0974.

Stroll through the Hoyt Arboretum and enjoy the changing color of the trees. Easy pace. Classic Mazamas free, others $2. 3 mi., 300 Ft., Drive 0. Hoyt Arboretum Visitor Center 10 a.m.

STREET RAMBLES Tuesdays & Thursday Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

Wednesday Mt. Tabor Street Rambles Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park—we may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. In the park, we’ll take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours, 5 mi., 500 ft. (not including stairs climbed up/down). $2 fee. Leave from Mazama Mountaineering Ctr, SE 43rd & Stark at 6 p.m. (please arrive early to sign in).

OCTOBER 2016 29

OUTINGS

ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24, 2017 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+.

Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included).

Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas. org for more information.

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG 5, 2017 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017. Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day hike for five days (Monday through Friday). There will be two hikes offered each day (a combination of A and B-level hikes) in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park. Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175.00 for members and $245.00 for non-members.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register for this fun and scenic hiking opportunity.

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30 MAZAMAS

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc. org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub. org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”

Renew Your MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP Today!

Dear members, We believe that spending time climbing, hiking, and skiing in the mountains enriches lives and helps build strong communities across our region. As Mazamas, we also know that when people live an active outdoor lifestyle they are happier, healthier, and are more likely to support important conservation and outdoor education initiatives.

As a dedicated member you know the value the Mazamas has had in your personal growth and in the creation and strengthening of your community. From sharing stories on the trail, to teaching a new climber how to rappel, to watching an evening program surrounded by others who share your sense of adventure, the Mazamas unites us all.

Our shared legacy reaches back over 122 years, and allows us to speak a common language that is rooted in our deep love and respect for the mountains. More than ever before, we are continuing our founders’ mission to foster the joy of mountaineering and share the wonders of the mountains of the Pacific Northwest with everyone.

Outdoor recreation is booming across the Pacific Northwest, and the need for Mazama programs to teach skills, promote outdoor ethics, and advocate for access and protection of the mountains is greater than ever.

Join us and show your continued support and dedication to the Mazamas mission by renewing your membership today.

As a MAZAMA MEMBER You Are: Part of a VIBRANT COMMUNITY Helping to PROTECT the mountains Supporting OUTDOOR EDUCATION PRESERVING the Mazamas legacy INSPIRING & TEACHING the next generation of Outdoor Leaders

Lee Davis, Executive Director

Your MEMBER Benefits DISCOUNTS on Mazama activities Monthly delivery of the MAZAMA BULLETIN A printed copy of the MAZAMA ANNUAL (The Mazama Yearbook!)

DISCOUNTS at local retailers & MAZAMA LODGE access and member rates FREE RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters (Up to $5,000) Access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY & HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS

OCTOBER 2016 31

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members.

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Libraray & Historical Collections Manager The September meeting focused on operations, an IT Project update, and the budget.

Walter Keutel, from the Climb Committee, was present for the member comment period. He shared the Committees wish that a date is chosen soon for an awards ceremony to recognize this year's 16 Peak Award winners.

John Rettig’s membership report noted that we are continuing our multi-year growth trend and have hit a record 139 new members for last month based on the year over year average. The Treasurer noted that the organization is currently performing better than budget and requested approval of the revised Financial Management Policies and Procedures. After a brief discussion, the motion carried and the policies were approved.

In his Executive Director’s Report, Lee Davis noted a busy schedule of upcoming fall events.

October will be a full month with the Annual Meeting on Oct. 3. incoming board member training on Oct. 18, the fall fundraising event for the Library and Historical Collections on Oct. 25, and the annual board retreat beginning on Oct. 28. Tickets for this year's Portland Alpine Fest will be on sale soon for week long festival that begins on Nov. 15 and culminates with The Summit at Revolution Hall on Nov. 19.

Committee Chair Orientation will be rescheduled to later this year.

Lee then moved on to note the recent hiring of Renee Fitzpatrick as the new Finance and Office Manager. A brief discussion of the staff restructuring and a shift in front office volunteer duties followed. Lee then gave a brief status report on several ongoing efforts. Highlights include efforts underway to encourage the state legislature to create an Oregon Office of Outdoor Recreation similar to what is now in place in Washington, Utah and Colorado; work on the Mt. St. Helen's informational kiosk; and fundraising efforts for the Tilly Jane A-Frame cabin. Mt. Hood National Forest has completed the work of reconnecting the Timberline Trail and we are collaborating with Trails Club of Oregon and PCTA to maintain these new sections of trail through the winter.

The board then heard an IT Project status report from Peter Tung, IT Project Manager–SVP Fellow. The project is currently entering into Phase II, and Peter indicated that the project is approximately 8 weeks behind the initial draft schedule. This delay is due to a combination of factors, including understaffing and early communication challenges. In addition, the Mazamas made some changes to the Data Model during the review phase to better serve our needs and this action also caused a delay. OMBU has recently hired a Project Manager

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32 MAZAMAS

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas.org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one-month delay due to the approval process.

for our project, and Peter is now cautiously optimistic that the project will be completed on time.

But, he pointed out that the next four to six weeks of contractor performance is critical to the progress of the project.

The board next reviewed the draft Volunteer Agreement and discussed feedback on the language of the document.

President Hooker expressed his desire to wrap up work on the Agreement before the end of the fiscal year. He asked the directors to wordsmith the language over email and put it to a vote before the end of September.

Next, the board entered into a discussion about the Fiscal Year 2016–2017 budget as proposed by the Executive Director. In his comments Lee noted that the budget is cash neutral, funds normal operations of activities and education programs, and the strategic project initiatives.

Treasurer Jon Jurevic added that the budget as presented takes into account the five-year trends in year-over-year increased earned revenue and financial support for Mazamas and that in just three years we likely will not need to request annual support from the Mazamas Foundation. The FY16–17 budget was approved

unanimously as presented.

Amy Brose gave a brief recap of the history of the year long effort to forge a Memorandum of Understanding between the Climbing and Education Committees. She stated that both committees approve of the agreement, and she asked that the board acknowledge the hard work done by both committees.

The public portion of the board meeting ended with President Hooker noting that the board needed to take action on two transfers from the Mazama Foundation. The Foundation transferred formal ownership of the climbing walls to the Mazamas. Additionally, he noted that the board needed to acknowledge the Foundations' transfer of the temporarily restricted funds. A motion to accept both transfers was presented and adopted by the board. President Hooker then asked that all board members review proposed changes to next year’s meeting schedule and come to the annual retreat ready to discuss the next strategic plan and expanding the external role of our board members. The meeting then adjourned into Executive Session for the Executive Director’s Annual Review.

Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor

OCTOBER 2016 33

Portland Alpine Fest Nov. 15–19

In its 4th year, the Portland Alpine Fest will offer a variety of opportunities, including: clinics, seminars, evening presentations, movies, networking, the Portland Ice Comp, and a great time with friends and soon-to-be friends throughout the week.

tails e d l a v i t Full fes 7–10 s e g a p on

The SUMMIT Nov. 19 at Revolution Hall

PORTLANDALPINEFEST.ORG

Colin Haley hosted by

presented by

Sasha an i l u i G i D

If you can only make one event during the Portland Alpine Festival this is the one! You'll hear tales of adventure from our keynote speakers Sasha DiGiulian and Colin Haley­—excellent climbers with diverse and impressive climbing resumes—view an extended trailed of Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, in addition to enjoying social time, participating in a silent auction to support the Mazama Mountain Science School, and having the opportunity to win great raffle prizes.

Get your tickets today!