Mazamas April Magazine

April 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 4

Bulletin

Summer Climb Schedule A night on Mt. Whitney a time to celebrate!

75 years of climbing education

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Whitney main trail. Photo: hikinggeek.com.

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LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org

SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@mazamas.org

MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org

ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org

CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager, mathew@mazamas.org

JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator, lauraburger@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org JOHN BARKHAUSEN Education & Activities Program Coordinator, johnbarkhausen@mazamas.org

KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator, kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, and Wendy Marshall (publications@mazamas.org)

Bill Sullivan speaks at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at the final Evening Program event of the 2017–18 season.

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The Mazamas offers two running camps on Mt. Hood during the summer.

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FEATURES 75 Years of Mountaineering Education, p. 12 The Life of the Climbing Mind, p. 14 Mazama Celebration, p. 16 New Website! Getting Started, p. 17 Summer Climb Schedule, p. 25 A Night on Mt. Whitney, p. 30 Families Mountaineering 101, p. 33 Honestly, p. 34 Live Free or Die, p. 38 Saying Goodbye, p. 47 The history of the Mazama Climbing Schools.

MONTHLY CONTENT Executive Director’s Report, p. 4 Events & Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Upcoming Classes & Camps, p. 8 Membership Report, p. 11 Evening Programs, p. 36

AYM, p. 40 Outings, p. 42 Mazama Lodge, p. 43 Trail Trips, p. 44 Executive Council, p. 46 Classics, p. 48

ADVERTISER INDEX Embark Exploration Co., p. 49 Green Trails, p. 37 Himalayan Trekking Alliance, p. 29 Next Adventure, p. 23 Petzl, p. 28 The Mountain Shop, p. 2

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Cover: Grace Taylor at Horsethief Butte during FM101. Photo: Rich Hunter. Chris Wright questing on a different type of fun on a first ascent of a hard new mixed route in Colorado. Photo: Karsten Delap.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@ OMC, p. 42 Peru Hiking, p. 7 Rab, p. 41 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 9 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

APRIL 2018 3

The Importance of the Outdoors

S

Dear Members and Friends,

oon hundreds of new Mazama students will graduate from our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). Freshly prepared with new skills and unbounded enthusiasm they will be ready to climb and hike into the mountains. We thank our dedicated climb leaders, instructors, and countless volunteers who help to make this program happen year after year.

Through climbing, we’re able to set and achieve goals that we previously weren’t entirely sure we could accomplish. Climbing awakens us from the dusty, dark winter months and finds us out looking again at the stars, enjoying wildflowers, and heading into the office on Mondays with sore muscles, proud smiles, and a fresh sunburn.

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The spring climbing season is a special time in the Pacific Northwest. For some of you this spring will mark your first experiences in the alpine environment.

And for many others it will be a time of reconnecting with our favorite places and experiences in the mountains. Through climbing and hiking, our students and our members will have the opportunity to rekindle their joy of exploring the mountains.

There are so many benefits and awakenings associated with the climbing season each year. Through climbing, we’re able to set and achieve goals that we previously weren’t entirely sure we could accomplish. Climbing awakens us from the dusty, dark winter months and finds us out looking again at the stars, enjoying wildflowers, and heading into the office on Mondays with sore muscles, proud smiles, and a fresh sunburn.

This is the time of year when we train, practice, and persevere. This is the time when we break through limits and achieve the audacious goals of summiting mountains and finishing trails and routes that were beyond us in years or seasons past. This is the time when we create memories and community.

Every week at the Mazama Mountaineering Center we see longtime Mazamas stop by to share their favorite stories and remind us of the importance of community and friendships in our lives.

Through climbing, hiking, and days of

adventure in the mountains we make not only lifelong memories, but friendships that will last a lifetime.

At the Mazamas we work to bring together everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains, and to promote responsible recreation. On both an individual level, where volunteers work one-on-one with our students and activity participants, and on a full scale community level, a primary outcome of our work is the development of responsible outdoor citizens.

By helping others have transformative experiences in the outdoors we help them build a bond of care with the mountains and our public lands. Very quickly, by simply going outside hiking or climbing, our students and new members start to see both the positive and negative impacts of society on the natural environment. As a community we understand that, not just for ourselves, but for future generations we need to work to preserve and maintain access to our public lands.

Today, the Mazamas is at a pivotal time in our history. Urbanization, technology, and population growth have combined to greatly increase the demand for outdoor recreation experiences. This demand is having a greater impact than ever, and at the same time, funding for our land management agencies, for conservation, and for our recreational infrastructure, is collapsing.

Additionally, the capacity of the

Mazamas2020 STEWARDSHIP & ADVOCACY GOAL

Lead our state and region in advocating for the benefits and interests of responsible outdoor recreation, and strongly support the stewardship and conservation of our public lands.

The full strategic plan, Mazamas2020, is available at beta.mazamas.org/mission-vision-plan/

Mazamas and most of our partner organizations to train our people to be responsible outdoor citizens is not growing.

The way we’ve always done things is simply not keeping pace with the times, and we will need to change our approach if we hope to have an impact in the twenty first century.

At risk is not only our access to public lands, but the very existence of public lands in America. In our current Mazamas2020 Strategic Plan, we intend to greatly increase the Mazamas capacity for outdoor education, advocacy, and outreach. If we are successful, in the years to come we can truly help to ensure that everyone has the same opportunities we have had to enjoy the mountains.

And as we move into spring,

STRATEGIES Support and engage in outdoor recreation and conservation policy work at the national, regional, and local level.

Lead efforts to make Oregon a national leader in supporting and advocating for the importance, benefits, and interests of outdoor recreation and our public lands.

Support our partners in creating sustainable stewardship programs in our state and region to develop and maintain the Pacific Northwest’s outdoor recreation infrastructure.

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EDUCATION

I want to thank our volunteers and leaders again. The most important thing we do at the Mazamas is create shared experiences in the mountains, through our programs. Through this work we build community, and we transform outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor citizens.

Our enduring hope is that, through outdoor education, through climbing, hiking, and skiing that our members and our friends will learn not only to love the mountains, but will to want to protect them for years to come.

Enjoy and protect,

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES

YOUTH & COMMUNITY OUTREACH

CULTURE & INFORMATION

The most important thing we do at the Mazamas is create shared experiences in the mountains, through our programs. Through this work we build community, and we transform outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor citizens.

Lee Davis Executive Director APRIL 2018 5

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST

April 13, 14, 15 at Revolution Hall April 20, 21, 22 at Cinema 21

There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. ▶▶ Cinema 21: Tickets go on sale soon at Portland Metro REI locations. ▶▶ Revolution Hall: Tickets go on sale soon Portland Metro REI locations.

LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND: JULY 13–15 Come and join us for the throw-back Mazama hiking event of the year! Like the good ol’ days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon—PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail—covering 22 miles in two days with just a day pack.

ITINERARY

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN Join the Mazamas 12th annual Round the Mountain (RTM) hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend. You will experience hiking a majestic 40 miles of the Timberline Trail with spectacular views of Mt. Hood and the beginning of autumn colors. ▶▶ Friday, Aug. 31–Monday, Sept. 3 ▶▶ Registration opens soon!

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Friday night, we will arrive up at the Mazama Lodge and have a delicious dinner (around 7pm) and meet our fellow hikers. On Saturday, separate hiking groups will get transported to Timberline Lodge where we will start our hike westward toward Paradise Park and continue downhill toward Zigzag Mountain for lunch along Burnt Lake, where you can dip into the refreshing water. After lunch we continue down to the Lost Creek Campground, where we will find our gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc) waiting

for us, along with a chuckwagon dinner by the Lodge grillmasters. Pack your favorite beverage to enjoy. Sunday after a filling breakfast, we will go as a large group old-style (since we will not be in the MH Wilderness) and start at Top Spur, cross Lolo Pass, and follow the Bull Run area boundary to the Lost Lake general store, where beer buying is optional! The Lodge Vans will take us back to the Mazama Lodge for some snacks and then we say “goodbye” and head for home.

DETAILS

▶▶ Total distance: Appx. 23 miles with 3,000 feet of elevation gain. ▶▶ Cost: $160 members/$190 nonmembers (includes food, lodging, transportation) ▶▶ Sign Up: Go to tinyurl.com/ MazLostLake

ASCENT: CLIMBING EXPLORED April 28–Sept. 3, 2018 High Desert Museum, Bend Oregon Ascent: Climbing Explored, a new exhibit at the High Desert Museum explores the history, evolution, and culture of climbing and mountaineering in the West. The exhibition examines how these sports originated in scientific exploration and grew into something done for fun. Visitors will see how technical advances pushed the sports to new heights. Over fifty artifacts from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections showcase the organization’s deep roots in Oregon’s mountaineering and climbing history. The exhibit investigates how the geology of the high desert draws climbers from around the world and showcases the beauty of climbing through a variety of art forms. Hands-on interactive activities for kids include a indoor climbing wall and an opportunity to handle climbing gear. Details at: highdesertmuseum.org/ascent-2/

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES WRITERS, EDITORS, AND PROOFREADERS ... OH MY! Do you have a passion for the written word? Are you at your happiest when you are wielding a red pen? Are you interested in sharing tales of Mazama adventures through Mazama publications, both print and web? Then we want you! The Publications team has a variety of roles available, from monthly content editors and proofreaders, to features writers and project managers. We’d love to welcome you to our team. Interested? Email publications@mazamas.org

WE HIKE HIGH

Join our 3rd annual fully supported trek to the astounding area of the world’s largest tropical glacier, the Quelcaya Icecap, in Peru at 15–17,000 feet elevation. Opportunities available in advance to acclimate. October–November timeframe (exact dates to be determined later). Additional cultural/historical sites and day hiking options from Cusco custom-crafted for the participants. Contact climb leader ellengradison@gmail.com before May 31 deadline if interested.

This is a paid advertisement.

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UPCOMING CLASSES & CAMPS FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101: INFO NIGHT JUNE 4, 6:30–8 P.M. AT THE MMC Families Mountaineering 101 or FM 101 trains adult and youth climbers for entry-level mountaineering activities, including rock and snow climbing skills. This class is an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities and mountaineering objectives.

Participants of the class will learn the skills required to be a competent member of Mazama “A” or “B” level climbs.

On Info Night you can come out and learn all about the upcoming class from instructors and past participants. Go to beta.mazamas.org/FM101/ for full details.

INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL (ICS): INFO NIGHT JUNE 25, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MMC ICS is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time.

The curriculum will include additional knots, additional belay and rappel techniques, glacier travel, rock and snow anchor building, map and compass navigation, avalanche awareness, avalanche transceiver training, accident management training, crevasse rescue, snow camping, high angle snow climbing, 5th class rock climbing, and seconding/cleaning 5th class Trad.

On Info Night you will have the opportunity to hear from instructors, assistants, and past students. Go to beta.mazamas.org/ICS/ for full details.

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Get Ready to

! n u R

MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP Fri., Aug. 3–Sat., Aug. 5 at Mazama Lodge

Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 2½-day, 2-night camp will include group runs, a bootcamp, hill running clinic, mountain safety clinic, mountain running movies, excellent instruction by top-level runners, and much more! Led by Yassine Diboun, Joelle Vaught, Amy Sproston, and Jason Leman, this camp will get you ready to confidently run and explore the mountains on your own. Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunk-style lodging. New options this year to accommodate returning students! Register at beta.mazamas.org/runningcamp/

ULTRA RUNNING CAMP Sat., Aug. 11–Mon., Aug. 13 at Mazama Lodge Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mazama Ultra Running Camp is for ultra runners to experience trail running at its finest! We’ll have two teams this year, led by Krissy Moehl and Jeff Browning, and two instructors TBD, you’ll spend 3 days and 2 nights exploring the beautiful trails in the Mt. Hood National Forest and learning from some of the masters of ultra running. During the camp, you’ll have the opportunity to circumnavigate Mt. Hood as a team. This circumnavigation is considered to be one of the crown jewels of Pacific Northwest ultra running and involves 40 (ish) miles on trail with appx. 10,000 ft of elevation gain and a variety of technical challenges—river crossings, glacier crossing, steep descents and ascents, and more all in a stunningly beautiful location. Register at beta.mazamas.org/ runningcamp/ APRIL 2018 9

INTRODUCTIONS Mazama Education & Program Coordinator

by John Barkhausen Hello Mazamas! I’d like to introduce myself to all of you. I am the new Education Program Coordinator. I can also now say that I am a full-blown Mazama member, and I’m excited to both jump into my work with the Education Committee and get involved in various programs and adventures as a participant.

I have spent the last ten or so years learning about and working in the field of outdoor education. I have a degree in Adventure Education and Wilderness Leadership from Prescott College, in Arizona. Since graduating in 2012, I have worked as a guide and outdoor education instructor, teaching and leading groups in rock and ice climbing, backcountry skiing, sea kayaking, hiking, and all around adventure. I have worked throughout the United States and was based most recently in northern New Hampshire working as a climbing and ice climbing coach at a boarding school. For fun, I have traveled far and wide in search of adventure, and am particularly excited about exploring the Northwest’s seemingly endless opportunities for outdoor fun.

In my various jobs (and in a wide variety of locations) I have taught courses on subjects ranging from avalanche science and safety to advanced climbing skills to “how to ride a bike for adults.” I get the most joy in my work from spreading the knowledge necessary to explore new and wild places, and sharing those places with lots of fun and interesting people.

As the Education Program Coordinator, I will help achieve the Mazamas’ educational goals by working with the Education Committee to manage Mazama courses. This will start by getting to know these programs and the legions of people who help make them happen, primarily working closely with the programs already on the schedule for 2018. Over time, I will help analyze and improve the curriculum and best practices for our education programs, and create new and exciting programs for upcoming seasons. I am most excited to work with all of our leaders and assistants and learn about their practices, experience, and strategies for running these programs and how they think we can improve upon them.

I am excited to now be a part of the Mazamas’ rich history, and I look forward to meeting and working with you all.

Stay Connected ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

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MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

Welcome

NEW MAZAMAS!

Craig Allision, Mt. Rainier James August, Mt. Hood John Barkhausen, Mt. Rainier Jeremiah Biddle, Mt. Baker Debbie Bone, Mt. Hood Nathan Boyett, Mt. Shasta Beth Conyers, South Sister Catherine Davis, rachael Art Duncan* Terry Edelstein, South Sister Keith Epstein, Middle Sister Daven Glenn Berg, Mt. Rainier Jackie Hoglund, Mt. Rainier Donald Houghton, Mt. Hood Mark Hufnail, Piz Lischana Kristen Jackson, Mt. Hood Emily Joy, Great Northern Mt. (MT) Matt Kirsch, Mt. Hood Janelle Klaser* Danny Kyu Bahng, Mt. Shasta Tiffany Lyn McClean, Mt. Adams John McElravy, Middle Sister

Danielle Melanson, Mt. Hood Lori Melton, South Sister Michael Moy, Mt. St. Helens Tatiana Pereira, Mt. Adams Jessie Robinson, Mt. St. Helens Tessa Rough* Mike Sanders, Three Fingers (WA) Jonathan Sarko, Mt. Adams Al Schacher, Mt. St. Helens Cletan Sequeira*, Michael Steiner, Mt. St. Helens Daniel Sullenger, Mt. Hood Joshua Sullenger, Mt. St. Helens Grace Taylor* Benjamin Tepler, Mt. Adams Max Tilka, Mt. St. Helens Russell Van der Genugten, Mt. Hood Aditya Venigalla, Mt. Kilimanjaro Harlan Wadley, Mont Blanc (France) Nathan Williams, Mt. St. Helens Rachael Withers*

Our new members join a 123-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program. We welcome you to our ranks!

New Members:43 Deceased:2 Roger Garrett (1981) and Helen Hanson (1975)

Total Membership as of Feb. 28: 2018—3,339; 2017—3,435

New member Nathan Williams on the summit of Mt. St. Helens

New member Tiffany Lyn McClean on the summit of Mt. Adams.

New member Terry Edelstein on the summit of South Sister.

APRIL 2018 11

75 years

OF MOUNTAINEERING EDUCATION

by Mathew Brock

“I

f you don’t know an ice axe from an ice pick, or a bowline on a bight from a butterfly knot, join the climbing committee’s course of instruction for climbers that meets in the clubrooms every other Friday night. It’s a good way to make sure you’ll be an asset instead of a menace on a mountain. And besides, it’s fun.” Those words, under the heading “Would-be Climbers!” appeared in a small box on the bottom of page two of the March 1943 Mazama Bulletin. It was an understated start to the Mazama climber education program. As we celebrate the 75th anniversary of Mazama climbing education, we look back at the origins of the climbing school.

Kurt Sieke first floated the idea of a climbing course in 1927. But, due to the limited resources available to the Mazamas at the time, nothing happened.

In 1939 then Mazama President Don Onthank recommended that the Mazamas provide off-season opportunities to help climbers stay in shape. Al Maas led six conditioning hikes in 1940, but the outbreak of World War II sapped the organization of people and energy. The occasional conditioning hikes continued for the next couple of years. It was not until March of 1943 that the Mazamas offered their first organized courses in Pacific Building clubrooms. Randall Kester, Climbing Committee chairman, held a series of eight classes and four field trips between February and June.

Kester developed most of the curriculum himself. The April Bulletin notes that twenty people showed up for the first three classes, a slow but promising start. The fledgling climbing courses struggled through the 1940s. Interest and engagement ebbed and flowed with

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the war effort. Organizers grappled with attracting students and retaining qualified leaders. It would take the end of the war, a resurgence in interest, and the leadership of an energetic young climber to get the Mazama climbing school off the ground.

In 1950 Warren Wilson became chairman of the Climbing Committee and he wholeheartedly embraced the climbing school idea. Under Wilson’s guidance, the committee scheduled six classroom sessions, eight field trips, and twenty high mountain ascents. That first year was a resounding success with 93 percent of students reaching a summit—a record for the organization.

The next couple of years saw steady growth in attendance and refinement of the curriculum. The lecture topics have varied little since the classes first began: essential snow and rudimentary rock climbing; rope handling; axe and crampon use; alpine camping; food, clothing, and equipment; first aid; map and compass; group climbing; and climbing safety.

The committee added climb leader

development and basic mountain rescue to the curriculum in 1954.

The Mazama Climbing School took off in 1957 under the leadership of high school teacher Bill Oberteuffer. Besides having the drive needed to make the school a success, he had the background and training to give the school a professional polish. On opening night in 1957, more than five hundred students signed up. Oberteuffer also introduced the Intermediate Climbing School in 1957 to detect and develop leadership.

Intermediate students assisted new students in learning skills during field trips, allowing the classes to handle more students. By 1958 classes had outgrown the Mazama clubrooms and moved to larger quarters at the Multnomah College lecture hall. Attendance was so high that in describing the field trips, John Scott wrote that students “covered the practice rocks and snow slopes like ants at a picnic.”

As the curriculum and number of students have changed over the years, so

have the field session locations. Early field trip locations included Oneonta Ridge, Mt. Defiance, and White River glacier on Mt. Hood. Snow practice session occurred in the canyons east of Timberline Lodge, where they continue to this day. Rock practice centered on Rocky Butte, then on the outskirts of Portland, until the city cracked down and banned rock climbing.

Rock practice then moved to Chimney Rocks, north of Washougal, Washington, where it would remain until 1956. That year Jack Grauer discovered an unusual rock formation on the Washington side of the Columbia River east of The Dalles. Now known as Horsethief Butte, it continues to be the principal location for Mazama rock skills practice.

Mimeographed copies of the Mountaineers Handbook: The Techniques of Mountain Climbing was the first textbook. When first published in 1960, Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills became the first text and has remained so ever since. Other early books included A Handbook for Ski Mountaineering and

Belaying the Leader. By 1963 attendance topped out at 742 students, forcing the lectures to move to the Lloyd Center Auditorium. The committee instituted a $2 registration fee in 1964 to constrain the school’s growth.

Over the years the committee tried different things to keep the ratio of students to teachers manageable. Starting in 1974 basic school group size was set at 15 students and no more than 18 groups, for a total of 270 students. In recent years, wilderness restrictions have led to a cap of 240 students. The Mazama Advanced School joined the roster of climbing classes in 1965. The Advanced School, limited to 24 students, focused on technical skill and leader development. In 1980 the Advanced School launched the snow and ice program to give advanced students an opportunity to practice glacier travel, ascending and descending technique, crevasse rescue, and ice climbing. The move created two advanced courses: Advanced Rock (AR) and Advance Snow and Ice (ASI). In 1996 the Basic School became the Basic

Climbing Education Program.

Each of the programs has undergone periodic revisions as the Climbing Committee strove to offer students the most up-to-date material in an efficient manner.

In the fall of 2017, the Mazama Executive Council approved a new three-year strategic plan, Mazamas2020. The first of the plan’s five goals is to modernize and expand Mazama outdoor education programs. The Climbing Committee and staff are working to improve quality while stabilizing outdoor program capacity.

They are also working with other outdoor groups to standardize curriculum across the nation. One thing is certain: the Mazamas will continue working to keep our education programs rooted in our long-held values, while training the next generation of mountaineers.

Photos, clockwise, from left: Mazama Mountain Climbing School display at the Public Service Building, 1956. Mazama snow skills practice, Mt. Hood, 1956. Mazama rock skills practice, 1963.

Mazama belay practice, Boy Scout Camp, 1959.

Photos from the Mazama Archives.

APRIL 2018 13

The Life of the Climbing Mind

by Darrin Gunkel

W

hat do you do to while away the long hours on a slog up a high peak? I’ve heard of people trying to recite the lyrics to every Beastie Boys song. Or Beatles song. Or The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. I know someone who counts steps.

You’ve probably been with one of those climbers who insists on recounting in excruciatingly minute detail every second of the best and/or worst climbs they ever did. No matter what, the mind will wander, and since a long slog can be a whole lot of no fun, the mind can wander into dark places. On the other hand, nine out ten climbs, it’s just so good to be out in the mountains, your thoughts follow you buoyantly along to the heights.

It’s just one of those yin/yang things.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT the many forms snow takes, and how that when I get home, this time, for sure I’m going to look up those 53 words the Innuit have for it. I try not to think about what it would be like to be buried under several tons of any of those 53 kinds.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT how each step is making me stronger. I try not to think about how much my pack weighs. Which encourages me to think about how it’s getting lighter with every sip of water I take, which then means I have to try not to think about the fact that I probably should have brought another liter.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT the view from the top: how many high peaks will I be able to count? How many of those can I name? I try not to think about how little sleep

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I’ve gotten, or how crappy that sleep was because my tent mate snores, or in the case of Hood, that I’ve gotten no sleep at all.

I TRY TO THINK POSITIVELY – and hence not think negatively – about the latest gash I just opened in my gaiter with a crampon: the layers of duct tape are trophies of many happy climbs, the mark of a seasoned mountaineer, reminders of how awesome duct tape is.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT the great big meal that I’m going to reward myself with back in town. No, wait. I try not to think about that, because then I remember that the only thing I have to eat for the next 12 hours are Clif Bars, because I couldn’t come up with anything more interesting to pack.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT how far I’ve come. (“Look how tiny Timberline Lodge has gotten!”) I try to avoid thinking about how far is left to go. (“We’re only at Triangle Moraine!?”)

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT how glad I am I quit smoking ten years ago. (It was never very much, and I always rationalized it by doing extra Bikram yoga.) I try not to think about the between 10 and, um, 20 extra pounds I’m carrying around my midriff since.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT how thoughtful it is the rangers provided a paper bag, kitty litter, and target to aim for in the blue bag kit. I try not to think about having to actually use them.

I frequently find myself trying (since I frequently find myself slogging up them) to

enumerate the reasons I love volcanoes: their symmetry; how they’re tall enough to create their own weather; the way they tend to march in long straight lines down the edges of continents; the improbable weirdness that just a few miles under most of them, hence under my feet, is a pool of liquid rock the size of a big lake. I try not to think about what an

earthquake would be like on the steep pitch near the summit.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT how lucky and privileged those of us who climb mountains are to be able to do so in the first place. Which means I have to try not to think about the absurdity, in an existential sense, or even just plain practical sense, of walking countless steps uphill, defying

danger, enduring physical punishment, just to have to walk back down again.

I TRY TO THINK ABOUT my wife, Karin, and how grateful I am she actually encourages me to do this sort of thing. I try not to think about first world problems like not having more weekends to do it.

Contemplating the climbing route.

Photo: Darrin Gunkel.

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T

he time is here! It’s once again time for us to come together as a group to recognize the fantastic accomplishments of our members and volunteers from the past year. The revamped Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening was a bit hit last year and we aim to make it even better for 2018!

This fun-filled evening is for all Mazamas as well as aspiring Mazamas.

We will honor our own through a program that recognizes achievements in climbing, hiking, leadership, and service to the Mazamas.

The social time before and after the program will feature a rotating

slideshow of photos submitted by committee chairs, volunteers, and members.

We look forward to seeing you at the Evergreen for this celebratory evening on Wednesday, April 25 at 6 p.m. Get your tickets today at tinyurl.com/MazVolAwards.

Social time with Mazama friends Recognition of accomplishments of the past year A commemorative Mazama mug for all attendees Two photographers on site (photos available online after the event) A shuttle from the MMC for Classics members (signup required) Raffle prizes!

MENU INCLUDES ▶▶Seasonal Roasted Vegetables ▶▶House-Smoked PNW Salmon ▶▶The Devil’s Mezze Platters ▶▶Spring Pasta Salad ▶▶Coronation Chicken Sliders ▶▶Portobello Sliders ▶▶House Bake Rolls

Parker Cup | Honorary Member | Hardesty Cup | Montague Cup | Terry Becker Award | 16 Major NW Peaks

New Mazama Website

What is Beta Mode?

The Mazamas has officially launched our new website in beta mode.

This new website will dramatically increase our ability to serve our members and our community. Starting with the 2018 climb season, all activity registration will now run through our website—no more climb cards! The site is fully responsive on mobile devices and will allow you to track your involvement with the Mazamas in activities, courses, and much more.

This guide contains information on your profile, dashboard, badges, activity history, and it will point you in the direction of where to find additional information online, including helpful video resources.

Our new website is much more than just a website overhaul. It is the product of three year’s worth of work to move our database and registration systems to an online platform, and to centralize data management through the entire organization. As you can imagine, this system has many parts and pieces that are dependent upon each other. During the beta mode period we will be tracking and repairing “bugs” in order to achieve stabilization. If you find a bug, please log it by click on the “Feedback” link at the top of the site.

beta.mazamas.org

Create Your Account Anyone who wants to sign up for an activity will need to create an account.

MAZAMA MEMBERS: CURRENT & PAST

If you are a current Mazama member or have been a Mazama member in the past, when you create your account, use the email address you have used for your membership in the past. This will allow your account to sync up with your record in our database. Please note: The beta site is not related to our current website. Your login credentials for mazamas. org cannot be used to login to beta@mazamas.org.

If you do not know what email address we have on file for you, please contact us at beta@mazamas.org BEFORE creating your account.

ACCOUNT CREATION STEPS:

Understanding Your Account Your DASHBOARD The Dashboard contains your upcoming activities, your current group membership, a link to your profile, your Mazama membership details, and liability waiver information.

1. Go to beta.mazamas.org

Your PROFILE

2. Click on Login

The Profile contains all of your personal information as well as Badges, Activity History, Volunteer Information, and Group History.

3. Click on Sign Up (upper right hand side of the screen) 4. Enter your Email Address (the email address we have on file for you)

5. A Verification Email will be sent to you from noreply@mazamas.org 6. Click on the large blue Verify Button in the verification email you received (check your spam box if you don’t immediately see this email) 7. Enter your first name, last name, and create a password 8. You will now be logged in to beta.mazamas.org

MAZAMA MEMBER: CONFIRM SYNC 1. Now that you are logged in, go to the upper right hand corner of your browser window.

2. You will see your name and the initial of your last name, next to a circle—click on your name 3. You will be presented with three options: Profile, Dashboard, and Logout 4. Click on Profile 5. Do you see information already in your profile, such as address or phone number?

• If yes, you have successfully synced with your Mazama account • If no (this is likely due to using a different email address than we have for you in our database), please contact us at beta@mazamas.org.

Page 2—Website Guide

Your Dashboard Your dashboard is the place to go to manage your Mazama information.

Your SCHEDULE This section contains links to activities you are connected to, as a participant or leader. It will also include activities you have applied for or been wait listed for.

If you are enrolled in and activity or leading an activity, click on the Activity Name to get all activity details, including your leader’s information, roster, and logistics.

Navigate to your DASHBOARD Login to the site Click on your name in the upper right hand corner Select Dashboard from the dropdown menu

LIABILITY WAIVER To participate in Mazama Activities you will need to sign the liability waiver. You may do this from your dashboard.

Once signed, the liability waiver is in effect for all Mazama Activities.

Your MEMBERSHIP If you are a current Mazama Member you will see the message on the left. If you have never been a member or your membership has lapsed, you will see the message on the right.

Website Guide—Page 3

Your Profile Your profile contains all of your personal information, including your activity history and badges.

Complete Your Profile Your profile contains a variety of data. Completion of your profile is what will allow you to sign up for activities.

1. Go to beta.mazamas.org 2. Click on Login (if you haven’t already created your account, follow the account creation steps) 3. Enter your Email Address and Password 4. Once logged in, click on the your name in the upper right hand corner, and click on Profile 5. Once on the Profile page, click Edit 6. Enter information into your profile (Mazama members, you will already have some information in your profile) 7. If you want to sign up for activities, the following profile fields are required: • Email Address, First Name, Last Name, Gender, Birthdate, Bio, Climbing History Outside the Mazamas, Type and Frequency of Physical Activity, Mobile Phone, Full Address, Medical Information (Conditions, Medications, Medications Carried), Emergency Contact Details 8. The other fields such as Volunteer Interests, Professional Background, and Volunteer Motivation are all optional.

About Activity History: MAZAMA MEMBERS When you create your account you are likely to have a blank Activity History.

If not, you might see several climbs or a class in this section. This section is populated directly from our database. Over time, as you complete climbs, hikes, and classes, you will see your past activities in this section.

Over the next 6–12 months we will be adding past climb data and some past class data to this section. However, our past data collection was not centralized, so it is unlikely your complete Mazama activity history will ever appear here.

Think of this section as Activity History with Mazamas starting in 2018.

Page 4—Website Guide

Please do not email asking for activities to be added to your history section.

About PRIVACY On your profile you will notice a privacy button. This allows you to customize who can view your information. When you sign up for activities, your activity leader will be able to see your entire profile.

For everyone else, you can customize who has the ability to view different segments of your profile.

Your PASSWORD Update your password by clicking the Password button within the Privacy panel.

About GROUPS This is where you will see information regarding the Groups you are a part of at the Mazamas, such as committees, subcommittees, or other organizational groups.

Please note: This information is not yet populated. Look for information here starting in June.

Badges as Prerequisites About BADGES Course completion, skills training, and accomplishments will now be tracked through our Badge System. Check out a full list of badges at beta. mazamas.org/badges. Already qualify for some badges? Request them!

Please note: Adding badges to the system is a manual process. Once you request a badge, look for it to be added to your profile within a week.

Within six months we will move towards using badges as prerequisites for activities. For example, to apply for a Mt. Hood South Side climb, the prerequisite would be the Basic Snow Skills Badge. If you don’t have the badge, you won’t be apply to apply.

Website Guide—Page 5

Applying for a Climb 1. Go to the Calendar

Starting the Process

2. Apply the Climb filter, and select the time frame you want to view (3 months is the default, but you can select 6 months or a year). This will show all climbs currently scheduled.

3. Review the options and find a climb(s) you are interested in.

4. Once the application period is open, the process has four steps.

5. Get a User Account (see page 2) 6. Sign the Liability Waiver 7. Complete Your Profile (see page 4) 8. Apply & Pay: Enter your payment information.

•• You card will only be charged if you are accepted •• If the climb cancels your credit card will be refunded •• If you cancel once accepted on the climb there will be no refund (this is unchanged from previous policy.)

•• If you are wait listed, and the leader contacts you to accept a spot, once accepted your card will be charged.

9. Once the climb leader updates your status— accepted, wait listed, not accepted—you will receive an email that will prompt you to login to your account 10. If you were accepted, login to your Mazama account, click on your dashboard, and look at your “My Schedule” section 11. Click on the climb you were accepted on 12. You will now see your climb leader info, climb team, and other relevant climb information 13. If you need to cancel, hit the withdraw button and confirm that you need to withdraw from the climb.

Looking for a specific climb? Go to beta.mazamas.org/calendar and utilize the Place filter. Enter the place you are interested in, such as Mt. Hood, and click enter. The calendar will show only Mt. Hood climbs.

Page 6—Website Guide

Are you interested in overlaying the Mazama Climb Calendar on your Google Calendar?

Go to beta.mazamas.org/calendar, apply the climb filter, and then click on Subscribe to Calendar. An ICS file will download to your computer. You can now create a new calendar in Google and import this file.

Application Process Complete

As you complete each step of the application process, you will see a green checkmark and the word Complete to indicate the step has been completed.

Once a step is complete, the button for the next step will be clickable. If the previous step is not complete, you will not be able to move through the process.

You must complete all the required fields in your profile to proceed to the apply & pay step. Required fields for activities include: Email Address, First Name, Last Name, Gender, Birthdate, Bio, Climbing History Outside the Mazamas, Type and Frequency of Physical Activity, Mobile Phone, Full Address, Medical Information (Conditions, Medications, Medications Carried), Emergency Contact Details ou ar

After you successfully enter your credit card information, you will see the message Awaiting Approval. Once the leader updates your status, you will see a message of Accepted, Wait Listed, or Not Accepted.

If Accepted, your credit card will be immediately charged.

Website Guide—Page 7

All Mazama activities appear in one centralized calendar. This will include courses, climbs, hikes, and other events. Click on the calendar link at the top of the page.

There are four calendar tabs: All, Education, Activities, and Events. You can apply filters to the calendar, including activity type (climb, hike, outing), place (Mt. Hood), grade, grad preference, and more. The filters are cumulative, so you can filter for B level Mt. Hood climbs for example.

Set the number of months you want to view. Default is 3 months.

beta.mazamas.org/calendar

Activity Listing The calendar listing shows the high level details of each calendar item, including the activity name, start and end date, and location. Clicking on the Activity Name will take you to the Apply Page.

NAME

TYPE

LOCATION Clickable link that will offer map data.

Activity Page

START DATE

END DATE

START TIME

END TIME

LEADER

Leader name is link, when clicked will show leader contact info and leadership philosophy.

REGISTRATION OPEN DATE

GRADE

The Activity Page reveals more details about each activity. The Activity Page has three tabs— Details, Upcoming, and Apply—and each tab provides you with different information.

UPCOMING

The Upcoming tab will show you all upcoming options of this particular activity.

DETAILS

The Details tab will provide an activity description, driving time from Portland, mileage, elevation gain, and more general details.

Page 8—Website Guide

SUMMER 2018 CLIMB SCHEDULE

On the following pages you will find the current summer 2018 climb schedule. Climbs will be added to the schedule continuously throughout the next few months. For the first time, the climb application process will move online through our new website, beta.mazamas.org. For a complete “How To” guide for account creation and the climb application process, review the 8 preceeding pages, and/or go to beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted for a PDF version of the guide along with step-by-step videos.

WHEN WILL THE CLIMB APPLICATION PROCESS OPEN? Unlike previous years where the climb application process opened on April 15 for all climbs, this year we are employing a tiered application opening process*. The majority of climbs follow this date system:

Climb Start Date Before 5/20 Between 5/20 and 6/19 Between 6/20 and 7/19 After 7/20

Registration Open Date 4/15 4/23 5/1 5/7

Each climb has its registration open date prominently displayed. Please make note of it as you review the climb schedule and plan accordingly. *while most climbs adhere to this schedule, several do not.

WHAT TIME OF DAY DOES REGISTRATION OPEN? The application will open at 9 a.m. on the Registration Open Date.

ARE CLIMB SLOTS FIRST COME FIRST SERVE? No. The climb leader sets a number of applicants they are willing to review for any given climb, as well as a number of climbers for their climb. The system will accept applicants until the max number of applicants set by the climb leader is reached. The climb leader will then review their applicants and select their climb team.

WHAT ARE CLIMB LEADERS LOOKING FOR IN A CLIMBER? Climb leaders don’t necessarily all follow the same criteria. However, most are attempting to put together a well-rounded team. Offer as much relevant information as possible in your profile to help your chances of being selected.

I WANT TO CLIMB MT. HOOD. SHOULD I JUST APPLY TO ALL OF THE MT. HOOD CLIMBS? No! Applying for multiple climbs on the same mountain (especially on the same route) is highly discouraged. Leaders will be provided with lists of the climbs their applicants have applied for, so if you apply for multiple climbs of the same mountain, a leader may be less likely to accept you.

AM I CHARGED WHEN I APPLY? No. However, you must provide a credit card number when applying.

If you are accepted, your credit card will be charged immediately.

WHAT IS THE CANCELLATION POLICY? Our cancellation policy remains unchanged. If you are accepted onto a climb and you cancel you will not receive a refund. If the climb is canceled your card will be refunded within 7–10 days.

MY MAZAMA PROFILE DOESN’T HAVE ALL OF MY TRAINING BADGES. HOW DO I ADD THEM? Review your profile and then review all of the badges offered at beta.mazamas.org/badges. Then click “Request a Badge” and apply for any of the badges that are missing from your profile. We will have them added to your profile within a week!

HOW DO I SHARE MY CLIMB/ TRAINING EXPERIENCE WITH MY LEADER WITHOUT A CLIMB CARD? Your profile will be shared with your leader when you apply. Your profile is a combination of your training with the Mazamas, your outside training, and other details you choose to share. The Bio field and Climb History field are both rich text fields. You can include a bulleted list of past climbs and/ or training, or you could even create a google doc or PDF and provide a link to it in your Climb History field. Curious how that would work? Check out our online instructions and videos at beta. mazamas.org/applyclimbs.

New Challenges

Our paper climb card process started in 1976 and has undergone very few changes during the last 41 years. The card itself got a bit longer, and the liability waiver received a significant overhaul, but overall the process was unchanged for four decades. Just as the paper climb card process had its challenges and went through iterations, we will likely experience some challenges as we move onto our new system.

We appreciate your patience and feedback as we move through our first season of online climb applications.

APRIL 2018 25

Go to beta. mazamas. org

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Login and click on Profile, then click Edit

Calendar Filters—to view all upcoming climbs, apply the Climb filter and change the timeframe from the defaultsetting of 3 months to 6 months.

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Required fields— certain fields in your profile are required in order to apply for an activity.

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Liability waiver—sign the liability waiver once and then you are done! It is in place for all Mazama activities.

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beta.mazamas. org/calendar

Get full instructions, including videos, at beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted Mountain, Route

Start Date

End Date

Grade Grad Pref.

Leader

Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Sunshine (1 day) Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, South Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Big Snagtooth: Silver Star/Big Snagtooth (M) Mt. Hood, Wy’east Silver Star: Silver Star/Big Snagtooth (M) Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Third Mother Mountain, Wonderland Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully North Sister, South Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Double Peak, Chinook Creek Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates South Sister, Devil’s Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes/Standard Route Pinnacle Peak: Pinnacle/Unicorn (M) Unicorn Peak: Pinnacle/Unicorn (M) Mt. Hood, Sunshine Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier Eldorado Peak, East Ridge The Brothers, South Couloir Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake

5/1 5/1 5/1 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/6 5/7 5/9 5/9 5/10 5/12 5/17 5/18 5/18 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/20 5/21 5/23 5/24 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/27 5/30 6/1 6/1 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/3 6/4 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/10 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/15

5/2 5/2 5/1 5/4 5/5 5/4 5/6 5/7 5/10 5/11 5/11 5/13 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/22 5/23 5/24 5/25 5/27 5/29 5/28 5/28 5/28 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/3 6/2 6/3 6/4 6/3 6/5 6/10 6/10 6/9 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/16 6/16 6/17 6/17 6/15

B BCEP C ICS A BCEP B BCEP; ICS; FM101 B BCEP A BCEP A BCEP; FM101 B BCEP B C ICS B BCEP; ICS A BCEP B ICS A BCEP; ICS A BCEP; ICS C ICS C ICS B ICS D AR; ICS B BCEP B C ICS A BCEP; ICS D ASI; ICS B ICS C ICS A BCEP; ICS A BCEP A BCEP B BCEP B BCEP C BCEP; ICS B B BCEP B BCEP B B BCEP A BCEP A BCEP; FM101 C BCEP B BCEP C ICS B BCEP D ASI B B B BCEP; FM101

Eric Brainich Rico Micallef Bob Breivogel Larry Beck Rico Micallef Karen Graves Amy Brose John Godino Bruce Yatvin Rico Micallef Richard Bronder Andrew Bodien Gary Bishop Richard Bronder Richard Bronder Daniel Mick Joe Eberhardt Daniel Mick Gary Ballou Doug Wilson Bruce Yatvin Larry Beck George Shay Rico Micallef Bob Breivogel Terry Brenneman Greg Scott Doug Wilson Teresa Redman Gary Bishop Jason Breaker Alex Fox Andrew Bodien Rico Micallef Karen Graves Vaqas Malik Bill McLoughlin Jason Breaker Larry Beck John Meckel John Meckel Gary Ballou Joe Eberhardt Rico Micallef Jeffrey Welter Andrew Bodien Ania Wiktorowicz

26 MAZAMAS

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Click on Apply and follow the prompts

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Grad Preference indicates that leaders are interested in taking current year graduates from the class listed.

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Sort by Location, Grade, Grad, or a combination

Registration Open Dates are variable. Make sure to note the date of the climbs you are interested in and plan accrodingly.

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Only some climbs open on April 16!

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Once you apply you will receive an email

Payment—You’ll need to input a credit card in order to apply.

You’ll only be charged if accepted.

You’ll receive a system-generated email when you apply.

Mountain, Route

Start Date

End Date

Grade Grad Pref.

Leader

Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek Mt Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Adams, White Salmon Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Little Tahoma Solstice Celebration Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes/Standard Route (M) The Castle, Standard Route (M) Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Jefferson, East Face Mt. Wow, West Side Road Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Jefferson, Marion County Highpoint Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Wow, SW Ridge Granite Peak: Granite-Wood (M) Mt. Wood: Granite-Wood (M) Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge Mt. Baker, Park Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Buckner, SW Route Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier South Sister, Devil’s Lake (Summit Bivy) Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Second Mother Mountain, Mowich Lake Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Washington, North Ridge (M) Snowking Mountain, Kindy Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge (M) Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm/Cascade Pass

6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/21 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/23 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/27 6/28 6/28 6/30 6/30 6/30 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/6 7/7 7/8 7/12 7/13 7/14 7/14 7/16 7/17 7/20 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/22 7/23

6/17 6/16 6/17 6/17 6/22 6/24 6/22 6/24 6/23 6/25 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/28 6/27 6/29 6/30 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/1 7/6 7/6 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/11 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/18 7/18 7/22 7/22 7/21 7/23 7/22 7/24

A BCEP A C ICS B AR; BCEP; ICS B B BCEP B BCEP; ICS B BCEP; ICS B B BCEP A B B BCEP B BCEP C ICS A BCEP B BCEP C BCEP; ICS; FM101 B BCEP B BCEP A A BCEP; ICS C ICS B ICS C C ICS B BCEP; ICS C ICS C C ICS B BCEP; ICS A B BCEP A BCEP D ICS A BCEP; ICS C BCEP A BCEP; ICS C B BCEP; ICS

Terry Brenneman Joshua Lockerby Bob Breivogel George Shay Daniel Mick Bruce Yatvin Greg Scott John Meckel Chris Kruell Eric Brainich Chris Kruell Chris Kruell John Godino John Godino Rico Micallef Doug Wilson Gary Bishop Larry Beck Joe Whittington Alex Fox Steve Warner Michael Levis Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Jeffrey Welter Eric Brainich George Shay Bruce Yatvin Linda Mark Joe Eberhardt Greg Scott Terry Brenneman Rico Micallef Doug Wilson Rico Micallef George Shay Bill McLoughlin Bob Breivogel Bill McLoughlin Karen Graves

What is a Multi-Part Climb (M)?

You’ll notice a few climbs on the schedule that have an (M) following the mountain and route. This indicates the climb encompasses multiple peaks. In the past, we would have referred to most of these climbs as Linked Climbs. For multi-part climbs you will be directed to apply for the main activity, and if accepted, you will be registered for all of the peaks that are a part of the Multi-Part climb.

APRIL 2018 27

Mountain, Route

Start Date

End Date

Grade Grad Pref.

Leader

Gannett Peak, Glacier Trail El Dorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Del Campo Peak, South Gully (M) Gothic Peak, East Side (M) Mt. Pilchuck, Bathtub Lakes (M) Mt. Pugh, NW Ridge (M) Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Buckhorn Mountain Mt. Whittier, Norway Pass Traverse Governor’s Ridge, Owyhigh Lakes Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge North Sister, Southwest Ridge - Collier Glacier Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge Cosho Peak, Ragged Ridge Traverse (M) Katsuk Peak, Ragged Ridge Traverse (M) Kimtah Peak, Ragged Ridge Traverse (M) Mesahchie Peak, SE Face (M) Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Ives Peak, Snowgrass Flats (M) Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/North Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats (M) Mt. Washington, North Ridge (M) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge (M) Sahale Mountain, Sahale Arm Cascade Pass Chutla Peak, Eagle Peak Trailhead (M) Denman Peak: Plummer/Denman (M)

7/24 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/28 8/2 8/4 8/5 8/8 8/10 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/12 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/16 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/20 8/20 8/23 8/24 8/24

7/28 7/29 7/28 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/30 8/6 8/5 8/7 8/9 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/16 8/15 8/14 8/16 8/18 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/22 8/22 8/26 8/26 8/24

C BCEP; ICS B C ICS B BCEP B BCEP A A C C AR; ICS C A BCEP A BCEP A BCEP C C ICS B A BCEP A BCEP A BCEP B BCEP C ICS B A C D AR; ICS A B B BCEP A C BCEP C BCEP B A A

Daniel Mick Linda Mark Gary Bishop Rico Micallef Rico Micallef Bill Stein Bill Stein Jeffrey Welter Gary Ballou Bruce Yatvin Bob Breivogel Joe Whittington Doug Wilson Michael Hortsch Joe Eberhardt Bob Breivogel Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Andrew Bodien Marty Scott Bill Stein Vaqas Malik Gary Ballou Bill Stein Joshua Lockerby Rico Micallef Bill Stein Morgan Harvey Morgan Harvey Jeffrey Welter Richard Bronder Teresa Redman

28 MAZAMAS

Mountain, Route

Start Date

End Date

Grade Grad Pref.

Leader

Eagle Peak, Eagle Peak Trail (M) Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Plummer Peak: Plummer/Denman (M) Pyramid Peak, Standard (M) South Sister, Devil’s Lake Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Del Campo Peak, South Gully (M) Gothic Peak, East Side (M) Mt. Washington, North Ridge North Sister, SE Ridge Three Fingered Jack Climb Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes/Standard Route (M) Plummer Peak, Standard Route (M) The Castle, Standard Route (M) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Broken Top: South Sister/Broken Top (M) South Sister: South Sister/Broken Top (M) Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes (Car Camp) South Sister, Devil’s Lake Stevens Peak, West Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. St. Helens via Monitor Ridge Golden Horn, Snowy Lakes (M) Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Tower Mountain, Snowy Lakes (M) Mt. Bailey, SE Ridge Observation Rock, Standard Ice Route Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer Traverse 2018: Pinnacle (M) Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer Traverse 2018: Plummer Peak (M) Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer Traverse 2018: The Castle (M)

8/24 8/24 8/24 8/24 9/1 9/1 9/7 9/7 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/10 9/13 9/15 9/15 9/16 9/16 9/17 9/22 9/26 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/30 10/6 10/6 10/7 10/7 10/7

8/26 8/24 8/24 8/26 9/2 9/1 9/10 9/10 9/8 9/10 9/8 9/8 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/11 9/13 9/16 9/16 9/18 9/16 9/18 9/23 9/27 9/30 9/29 9/30 9/30 10/7 10/6 10/7 10/7 10/7

A BCEP B BCEP A A BCEP A BCEP; ICS C ICS B BCEP B BCEP C ICS C C B BCEP A BCEP; FM101 A BCEP; FM101 B BCEP; FM101 C BCEP; ICS E AR; ICS A B BCEP A BCEP A A A BCEP B A BCEP B BCEP B BCEP; ICS B BCEP A B ASI; ICS A BCEP A A B

Richard Bronder Gary Bishop Teresa Redman Richard Bronder George Shay Daniel Mick Andrew Bodien Andrew Bodien Bruce Yatvin Jill Kellogg Joshua Lockerby Joe Eberhardt Joe Eberhardt Joe Eberhardt Joe Eberhardt Alex Fox Vaqas Malik Bill Stein Bill McLoughlin Bill McLoughlin Eugene Lewins Bruce Yatvin Doug Wilson Ania Wiktorowicz Richard Bronder Daniel Mick Bob Breivogel Daniel Mick Bob Breivogel Terry Brenneman Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel

APRIL 2018 29

A Night on

Mt. Whitney

by Stefani Dawn, edited by Wendy Marshall

S

o many people climb Mt. Whitney, the continental U.S.’s highest peak, that permits can be hard to obtain. Most climb it via the hiking trail, while others take the steep scree-fest of Mountaineers’ Route. Still others go by the technical East Face or East Buttress. A number of people climb it, including the technical pitches, in a day. A typical strategy is to assemble the least amount of gear needed, park at the Portal, and ascend 4000’ to Base Camp. Then you climb either the East Face or East Buttress 1000’ more feet to the full 14,505’ elevation, then descend by the 2000’ Mountaineers’ Route. Finally, you hike back down over four knee-busting miles to the Portal. The idea not only sounded like a rough prospect to me, it blew my mind. Still, I like a challenge, and knowing people regularly do it got me thinking: “Maybe it’s easier than it seems.” So, after an attempted climb of Mt. Ogden with my husband Rick, followed by some training, I took Whitney on.

In the planning stage, I recalled the primary lesson from our Mt. Ogden practice: allow more time. First, this means time to acclimate to the altitude, but also to decompress and rest, and allow for unplanned incidents. Estimating the climb at a safe minimum of six hours, ten at most, our team of three — Rick, a friend Simon and I — started before sunrise. But time leaked away with each photo, lead switch, and equipment catch. Most especially, repeated attempts at route-finding gobbled up minutes.

One surprise time-sink for us was simply stepping aside for other climbers to pass, since we wanted to enjoy our route and not feel rushed. I have never climbed with so many people on a route before. Future hopefuls, take note: Mt. Whitney is a climbers’ super-highway!

We went for efficiency, each person leading multiple pitches in a row to minimize switching leads. Another person flaked ropes or transferred gear at the same time, and at least two of us or even all three climbed simultaneously as often as possible. Still, the pauses added up, and we topped out at 7 p.m. — 12 long hours after we started.

Immediately after summiting, we tried to descend by the Mountaineers’ Route, but sunset was upon us. We found rock cairns and crude Xs, but after peeking over the edge of each one, told each other: “This looks bad.” As light vanished and the temperature dropped, we decided the safest choice would be to bivy on the summit. Whitney is in the Sierra Nevadas, but the altitude coupled with clear skies can still mean bitter cold. Neither had we planned for a bivy; we had only our extra clothing layers, plus remnants of food and dwindling water. Fortunately, there’s a stone and wood hut at the summit, where some thoughtful soul had left an emergency blanket. We piled under the noisy, reflective fabric and huddled for protection from the freezing ground and rapidly stirring winds.

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Soon we heard voices and saw headlamps. We greeted two more climbers with a hoorah, and two more 30 minutes later, all from the East Face route. Yet two more, off the East Buttress, opened the door to chat, then went off to attempt Mountaineers’ Route in the dark, leaving us to shiver and try to sleep. These other climbers relieved my mind somewhat. Before they arrived, I wondered how we had so radically miscalculated our time. I thought, “What could we have done differently?” Given what we knew, and that it was our first attempt at this mountain, not much.

We’d chosen safety first, and enjoyment next, based on our gear arrangement.

Doubts set in: Was I too slow a climber?

Should I not have lead any of our 12 pitches? As we discovered, about half the climbers took even longer than we did. All were first-timers, and most were dumbfounded by the maze-like mess of the last five pitches. Whitney in a day, we learned, is not the norm.

Next morning, we still had no luck finding Mountaineers’ Route. Instead, Simon found a steep scree path on the northwest side. I found myself sliding, barely in control. Large rocks tumbled by me, then disappeared over the curve of the slope with echoing crashes. I froze and began sobbing from fear and exhaustion, thinking, I can’t do this. I could think only of an article I’d read about people dying on an alternate route, falling into the small alpine lakes below. From his vantage point ahead Simon reassured us, but I’d reached my wits’ end, and I didn’t want my physical or mental state to slow them down. I insisted Rick give me the spare gear, to lighten his and Simon’s load. Rick wasn’t happy about our splitting up, but agreed to let me take the gentler hikers’ trail, 11 miles to the parking area, with another four miles down the Lone Pine Creek Trail to Iceberg Lake. Emotionally relieved, I made do with a fruit bar and some water donated by a kind group of folks, and took micro-naps in the sun.

The Whitney trail stretched on, pounding my toes, but my legs held up surprisingly well. I thought of Rick and Simon, hoping they succeeded unhurt in their risky descent. The Whitney Portal Valley appeared, and as I passed the Lone Pine Creek trailhead, I saw Rick, running toward me with his 50lb. pack still on! He and Simon had found

a viable descent even faster than the Mountaineers’ Route. Their choice isn’t a good route if there’s a risk of ice, and they met a few sections with “consequences”, they said, but nothing steeper than where I’d had my meltdown.

I felt grateful my teammates were willing to meet me, cutting our odyssey short by a day, and grateful to my husband for taking up the extra gear.

Rick and Simon were completely understanding of my decision, and informed me that the prospect of beer and a burger was plenty motivation to get off the mountain.

I can now safely assert that Mt. Whitney is beyond the “common climber”, as I call it, even with an ultralight approach. It’s both easy and not easy, and should not be underestimated. I learned a lot, felt proud and grateful, had fun, and got down safely. But I also got whipped!

IF YOU PLAN TO GIVE MT. WHITNEY A SHOT, HERE ARE A FEW THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND: ▶▶ The approach to Base Camp is 4000’ in four miles — doable, but a strain at times. ▶▶ The Sierra Nevadas are mostly sunny in summer, and Whitney doesn’t get the typical daily summer mountain thunderstorms. Still, be prepared for season storms to sneak up on you, and it can get quite cold. ▶▶ The East Buttress climb is a 5.7 or less, if you can find the right path.

Route-finding can be a challenge, especially at the top, where you can be met with an unprotectable 5.10 grade climb! Then it’s down-climbing, traversing, whatever you can, to get to something climbable. ▶▶ Once again, allow plenty of time, emergency and/or overnight supplies, food and water.

Stefani Dawn’s favorite pasttime is rock climbing, especially easy trad, multipitch and technical sport climbs. Her second favorite pasttime is writing about rock climbing. Third favorite? Hosting outdoor meet-up events to connect with other climbers and mentor newbies.

Check out her website, Common Climber (http://www.commonclimber.com/), for articles, tips, reviews, and photos.

Submissions invited!

APRIL 2018 31

es li mi a F INEERING

A T N U MO

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101

by Grace Taylor That sunny day in September was the first time I’d seen blue sky in weeks. The Eagle Creek fire had darkened the skies and caused us to cancel the first of our scheduled field sessions with FM101. But this time, a cool, crisp wind had cleared the air for our first outdoor climb.

After learning about the ancient paintings hidden among the rocks at Horse Thief Butte, we split into groups to practice our climbing and rappelling skills in the open air. Lillie, my 13-year old, headed off with a couple young assistants.

My 9-year-old son James and I teamed up with John, a more experienced climber, and his two girls.

I’ll admit to holding my breath watching James rappel down 100 foot cliffs. But nervousness turned to joy when he came down beaming—as proud of himself as I’d ever seen him. This was why we were here—to test and challenge ourselves, and to experience that exhilaration and joy together as a family.

When I next saw Lillie she proudly announced she’d climbed all the routes and passed all the tests for her skills cards. At some point Craig, one of the assistants, had us follow him to a route he’d set up near the trailhead.

“Why don’t you give this one a try?” he suggested to Lillie. She studied the route and listened as Craig coached her through how to do a lay back. There was nothing easy about this route. She tried a couple of different approaches and struggled in places, but just kept at it until she got to the top anchor. When she was out of earshot, Craig told me that the entrance crack was classified as a 5.10b “I just wanted to know if she could do it,” he said.

These were exactly the moments I’d hoped for when I signed up for FM101. It’s not always easy finding activities all three of us enjoy together. The two kids are different enough in age that their interests and abilities don’t overlap much. We love camping and being active with friends outdoors, but when it’s just the three of us, it’s a lot to manage. And, we all need

the company of others to make it fun and motivating.

Lillie blew me away, not only by mastering skills quickly and taking my breath away with her climbing, but by being a leader and a helper for our family.

She kept track of our assignments, studied the course material and helped manage our gear.

James did great too.

He didn’t always love listening to lectures, going through safety checks or practicing knots. He got frustrated when he forgot a knot or a technical term. All he really wanted to do was climb rocks. And climb more rocks.

I did my best to keep up with them.

Sometimes I scrambled to get gear and lunches packed after a long work week, or skimmed my way through a reading assignment. I showed up as prepared as I could be, and learned a ton. Our coordinators Brian and Kirsten did an amazing job presenting the material in a way that was engaging and empowering to kids.

All the assistants were great, including the kids who helped lead and teach the sessions. All were patient, kind and encouraging. All were competent and clear in giving instructions. When James was frustrated, they helped him keep going. When he stuck with something they gave him praise. When I was losing patience with him, they gently brought him back to focus with playful humor and respectful reminders so we could all succeed together.

I’ve had a great time climbing, and feel ready for more adventures. Lillie has joined a climbing club at the Rock gym.

James is ready to climb more rocks and do more camping, and knows that he can learn difficult things. We met lots of great people and kindled friendships I hope will grow over time. All of us want to go climb mountains.

This was why we were here—to test and challenge ourselves, and to experience that exhilaration and joy together as a family.

Lillie Taylor Steward belaying at Horsethief Butte. Inset: Lillie on a Tyrolean Traverse at Horsethief Butte. Photos: Mari Williams.

by Lillie Taylor I have been entranced by climbing since I was eight. Watching people scale the reaches of the world’s greatest peaks and hidden wonders has kept me entertained for five years and I have finally convinced my family to jump onboard with me. FM101 has been the perfect way to engage mom and James in something I’m passionate about and hope to continue in the future. After completing this class, I feel ready to complete all sorts new challenges. I have learned how to make myself feel secure on a wall, and put trust in myself and in others. I hope that I can come back to help with future sessions, and intend to become a stronger climber over time.

This class was what I needed to feel confident in my own abilities.

by James Taylor I really loved the climbing and the snow session. I liked how at the snow session there was a surprise, and there were a whole bunch of games in Mazama lodge. For the rock climbing part I really liked climbing and belaying.

APRIL 2018 33

Honestly?

by Chris Wright

B

illy Joel says honesty is a lonely word, yet both he and my mother always told me it was important. I know you know this, but I’m telling you now too: it is. It’s hard sometimes, but as Shakespeare reminds us, “To thine own self be true.” If you’re not, you will know it, and when you’re up on that crimp high above that wiggly little cam or strung out on a ridge in goodness-know-where wishing to anything you weren’t there, you may wonder why you put yourself in this position. When it comes to climbing, as it does in so many of life’s avenues, if we could only be honest with ourselves, we could be so much happier for it.

Here’s what I mean. If you’re anything like me, you do things for a lot of different reasons. Some you have to, some you want to, some you enjoy, some you don’t, and some you like sometimes and not so much others. So it is for me with skiing. I love to ski. I’ve done it since I was a little kid, I do a lot of it for work, I do a fair bit for fun, and mostly I like it. My favorite is touring; I love the feel of being out in the mountains, moving elegantly though them, setting a skin track, and getting up high. But what I love the most is the movement. I love laying my skis over on edge, skiing fast, and the feeling of flying that I get when it all lines up just right. But I hate skiing moguls. I hate crud and choppy snow, I don’t like it if it’s icy, I’ve no interest in dropping cliffs (okay, maybe little ones), and I certainly don’t see death-fall faces as my idea of a good time. So if I’m honest with myself, I know I don’t really love to push it in skiing.

Sure, I love big days. I like long tours, ski

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mountaineering, and skiing the steeps.

But I’ll never be motivated by the extreme line, the gnarliest huck, or the sickest spine. I know I could probably get better if I logged endless crud laps and drilled myself on the bumps, but it’s just not who I am. I ski because I love the feeling of it, and it doesn’t have to be hard to be good.

When it comes to climbing however, my motivations are different.

Give me a painful jam, an epic adventure, a miserable bivy, a god-awful slog and I love it. Give me a nice crimp, a nice crack, a long route, a hard route, a short route, or an easy route and I’d probably take it.

I love to climb for so many reasons. I love the feeling of being up in the air, I love the struggle of a hard move, and I even like the feeling of groping desperately, pumped stupid, not knowing if I’m going to fall any moment. I like the uncertainty of seeing how far I can go, how high I can climb, and how far I can take it, knowing the beauty is

in the un-assured outcome. But I also like a nice classic 5.easy, I love the feel of a good move whether it’s hard or it’s not, I like big mountains and small, and I’d be lying if I said that I wanted to push it everyday or that I could always wake up and go questing. Sometimes I just want to go climbing, and I don’t want to be scared, or to bleed, or to fall off at all. I just want to go powder skiing, if you know what I mean.

So here’s where the honesty comes in.

Freud used to say that we can change what we do, but not what we want to do. That may or may not really be true, but when it comes to climbing – or skiing, or hiking, or running or whatever – you can’t fool yourself into wanting to do what you don’t want to do. You might very well be able to actually do it, but if we do these things for fun and you’re not having any, then what’s the point? Because even if you get up the climb or down the run, if you hate it, why do it?

One of my good friends and climbing partners gives sage advice sometimes. He’s not trying to be profound, but two things he’s said to me over the years have really stuck. We were once standing underneath Heinous Cling, one of my favorite climbs in Smith’s famed Dihedrals, and I was fretting that I hadn’t been on it in a while and didn’t remember the moves. He told me that I should just climb or fall off, and to not make it any more complicated than that.

So simple. He also once told me I should grab the white ones and step on the black ones, which if you’ve ever done that route is surprisingly useful beta, but the point is that it worked for me that day. Over the years I’ve found that the days I climb the best are the days that I can just get out of my head and climb. Those are the days when I’m not thinking about falling, I’m not thinking about the buts and the ifs and the doubts, I’m just climbing. But I know that’s not going to happen if I try to go hard

every day I go out. I’ll probably have a lousy time, I might fall off a bunch, I might let my partner down, and worst-case scenario I might actually get hurt. So I try to be honest with myself when I ask the simplest of questions in choosing an objective: What is it that I want? Do I want to go on a vision quest, or do I just want to go climbing? Do I want to go big or do I just want to get out?

Do I want to dig deep, or do I just want to have fun?

As a mountain guide I’ve seen this experiment play out again and again.

I’ve seen people have the most moving experiences and the lousiest vacations, and the bad ones are almost always the result of people throwing themselves at things they actually didn’t want to do. Whether it’s because they never asked the question or didn’t give themselves permission to respect the answer I’ll never know, but for your sake and your partner’s, just try it. Ask yourself what it is you really want to do

today, and listen. Sometimes it’s going to be the case that you really do want to venture out in to the void, to pull harder than you ever have and to embrace the uncertainty of success. Sometimes the noble struggle will leave you so satisfied you’ll be glad you fought through it. Other times you might just wanna ski powder, or climb something that’s fun, even if it means that it’s easy. We do need to train our weaknesses, but not every day. It doesn’t always have to be a voyage of self-discovery. Sometimes we can just let ourselves be, give ourselves what we want, and enjoy it.

Above (left to right): Questing on a different type of fun on a first ascent of a hard new mixed route in Colorado. Photo: Karsten Delap. Chris enjoying some physical and metaphorical powder skiing in Norway’s Lofoten islands. Photo: Johan Wildhagen.

APRIL 2018 35

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS WEDNESDAYS AT 7 P.M., AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER.

APRIL 11—NEW HIKES IN OREGON Hiking guru William L. Sullivan takes us on a visual tour of the new and changed hiking trails he has discovered for the 2018 versions of his Oregon hiking guides. As always, expect anecdotes about history, geology, plants, and wildlife along the way.

APRIL 4—HILLWALKING IN IRELAND Trek along with Alice Brocoum, Carol Beauclerk and Rex Breunsbach on Ireland’s Wicklow Way, south of Dublin and the Western Way, north of Galway: two of the many long distance self-guided walking trails in Ireland. These trails travel through a patchwork of landscapes and historic sites. Experience the vibrant culture and history of Ireland close-up while walking along national trails and country lanes. We travel through mountains, upland lakes, peat bogs, steepsided glacial valleys, fast flowing streams, forests, and farmlands. Each night is a unique stop along the way, from farm to B&B to manor house.

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Programs are free and open to the general public.

We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

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*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

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We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

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206.546.MAPS (6277

Live Free or Die: WHY CLIMB IN NEW HAMPSHIRE?

by Jonathan Barrett

I

n 1971 John Bouchard soloed the infamous Black Dike ice climb on Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire. Without modern tools. While wearing only one glove. And it was the first ascent. As much as this sounds like your grandpa’s “we walked to school every day ... uphill ... both ways ... in a snowstorm ... naked” stories, this one is actually true. The spirit of that moment embodies the essence of climbing in the Granite State. While ice season may be fickle, the black flies, which chew on your skin more than just bite, are as predictable as the first tender, green buds of springtime. It is a place defined by climbing that is rarely soft and by climbers who as hard as the steel in your front points. When asked, “Why climb in New Hampshire?” the answer is the collective call to, “Live free or die.”

The climbing locales in New Hampshire can be grouped into essentially four areas: North Conway, Rumney, Cannon, and Everything Else.

The first is overrun by tourons clogging the main roads as they migrate from outlet store to franchised restaurant to overpriced hotel room. The second is a great place to meet someone from Massachusetts. Or Connecticut. Or New York. The third is where you come face to face with routes plagued by detached flakes and other time bombs pried loose by the unremitting fingers of frost. The fourth ... well, I can’t tell you about those secret hollows and lonely crags. Even if I did, your delicate flesh couldn’t possibly withstand the ‘swchacking required to get there.

On the eastern flanks of the Whites, the crags of Whitehorse and Cathedral are beautiful, but crowded. Classic lines like Thin Air, which will test your rope drag reducing abilities, and Sliding Board, which will appraise your composure on slabby run-outs, all require either an early or really late start to avoid ending up on a conga line of four or five teams. It is unlikely though that you will have to take a ticket to climb The Prow, which culminates with two pitches of 5.11d. You won’t hear your audience applauding in the

parking lot as you pull its thin crux moves, but they will be watching you for sure. In the winter, Repentance (WI 5) and Remission (WI 5+ 5.7) are also not-to-be missed lines, but, because of their location and sun-exposure, they do not regularly form. Lastly there is the Standard Route, 5.5 but with an R-rating because of 30’-40’ run-outs. You are as likely to see a soloist on it as you are a toddler in a full-body harness tackling her first multi-pitch climb.

Of course Rumney suffers from similar issues as North Conway. The crowds are also extreme. In fact the parking issue has been a serious point of contention for the city for decades. When the lot is full, the only other option is to park at the city hall and then take a long walk back to the crag. On a Indian summer weekend, you will see oodles of license plates from as far away as Pennsylvania or the mid-Atlantic region. They all come for the singular reason that it is a bolt-clipper’s paradise, on par with the Verdon Gorge in France or Smith Rock, although not as expansive as either.

Truthfully it is possible to climb all year at Rumney, if you are flexible. Many of the faces have a southerly exposure, and when the leaves are off, the crag can almost feel warm in late February as the days begin to slowly lengthen.

Summer, which is often hot and humid, may reduce your ability to send, but there are still lines that are shady and relatively cool. Like Smith, the cragging is enjoyable because of the people, not in spite of them. Waiting in line for Waimea (5.10d), Gold Digger (5.8+), or Flying Hawaiian (5.11b) is just another opportunity to chat with folks who drove up from the Gunks or the New River Gorge. Then there is the two-bolt sport climb The Fly (5.14d) which, having been free-soloed twice, puts concrete action to the abstraction that is the state’s motto, “Live free or die!”

At close to a thousand feet at its apex, Cannon provides the only real “big-wall” experience on the East Coast. Some may argue that in wintertime it even has an alpine feel. This might be hyperbole, but there are elements of it that both deter the crowds and lure the adventurer. The Whitney-Gilman ridge might be the only line on it that would ever regularly have more than one party at a time. This is because it is safe from the constantly exfoliating stone and is quite moderate at just five pitches of 5.7. However the view into the dark heart of the Black Dike from the classic pipe pitch (where a steel pipe is literally driven into a crack as protection) is unparalleled.

From that vantage point you can also

look across the broad expanse of the cliff and see other defining routes. The perfect hands-in jamming on Reppy’s Crack is a fine alternative start to the also classic Moby Grape (5.8) which features the Finger of Fate, a cruelly curved arc of detached stone. There are hard lines too, ones that rarely get climbed but are spoken about in reverent tones while tossing back a beer.

Half Moon Crack on Vertigo might only be 5.9, but it is too wide for any protection so a cool lead-head is mandatory. Then, of course, there is VMC Direct Direct (5.10+), the true test-piece for any aspiring Cannon climber. Desperate friction moves, regularly wet sections, and occasionally thin gear defines this route and helps the cliff earn its alpine reputation.

As special as the locales themselves are the cast of characters which contributed to the first in ascents in New Hampshire; the catalogue of personalities is without comparison. The first 5.12 done in the Whites was by Jim Dunn whose route Zonked Out was best sent, in his opinion, with only one shoe on. His bare left foot permitted better jamming in the thin crack. Robert Underhill of the Appalachian Mountain Club established two of the early standard routes on Cathedral and Whitehorse before moving on to establish new lines in the Tetons. His spouse, Miriam Underhill, who completed the first ascent of the Aiguilles du Diable on Mont Blanc and was part of the first all-woman ascent of the Matterhorn, was a frequent visitor to the granite of New Hampshire in the 1920’s as well. Even Fritz Weissner, who was on a 1932 attempt of Nanga Parbat, was known to haunt the obscure crags of the Granite State, once free-soloing his namesake line, the Weissner Route (5.8 R) on Humphrey’s Ledge. It is this cast of characters, past and present, that underpin the identity of New Hampshire climbing.

Once, in the early days of the internet, I connected with a fellow on neice.com and made plans to climb at Frankenstein near Crawford Notch. As the appointed day approached, the forecast called for arctic temperatures, and I distinctly recall the

mercury visibly plummeting on my thermometer: 5 degrees, then -5, then 15 below. My Siberian husky refused to go outside. I called my partner’s cell phone to discover that he had already made the seven hour drive from southern New Jersey and was ensconced in the AMC cabin at Crawford Notch.

Temperatures be damned, he wanted to climb, and climb we Sam on Pitch 2 of Pinnacle Gully. Photo: Jonathan Barrett. did. At over fifty, he was far from The same year that John Bouchard was over the hill, and soloing the Dike, “hot” Henry Barber freed as a carpenter by trade he swung his tools Recluse (5.11a) on Cathedral ... in boots. He with all the precision of a man who lived is still regularly seen in the Mt. Washington his life with a hammer in his hand. It was Valley. The list goes on and on. Hugh also the first day I ever saw leashless tools.

Herr, who lost both of his legs on Mount Nothing about the day made sense at the Washington but went on to be a pioneer time, but we chose to live free or die. in prosthetics. Jim Ewing of Sterling If you have the chance to wander the Rope. Georgy Hurley, who at 82, was still crags of New Hampshire, staring up at leading WI5. Tim Kemple. Joe Kinder. Dave some line, you many have the opportunity Graham. to run into one of the wild creatures They are all the singular answer to the that populate these special places in question “Why climb in New Hampshire?” the Granite State. You could run into Why face the crowds in North Conway and Al Hospers, the dedicated curator of Rumney? Why endure the biting flies and neclimbs.com, racking up a set of tricams greasy humidity? Why tolerate the bipolar for Sea of Holes. Maybe you will come winters that are too frigid for climbing across Jim Surette, who established Liquid or to warm for ice? The answer is always Sky, a 5.13b trad climb and who now owns because of the people. They, more than any the award-winning Granite Films. If you other, define the place, its spirit, and its are really lucky, Mark Synnott might be soul. They choose to live free or die. guiding next to you; the man, who cut his teeth on Cannon’s face, went on to establish multiple grade VII first ascents on Baffin Island and in the Karakoram.

APRIL 2018 39

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Featured Event

Check the website at tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Climb night at Planet Granite, Wednesday, April 4. Meet at 6:30 p.m. at the retail entrance with benches.

Contact Allison Richey or Scott Wasko for further details. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

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BASE CAMP MARYHILL A MULTI-DAY CAR CAMPING ADVENTURE Friday, May 4–Sunday, May 6

J

oin AYM for a campfire-friendly weekend adventure at our base camp, Maryhill State Park’s Group Campsite. A Mazama favorite, the Maryhill campground is an ideal setting during the coveted wildflower season that peaks in the East Gorge during the heart of spring. We plan to host multiple events on Saturday and Sunday with at least an easy/moderate hike guaranteed, each day, to cater to all skill levels. There will be plenty of camping spots; hammocks are possible. Arrivals times are flexible. 200 mi RT drive. Trip capped to 20 people. Fees: $20 members/$30 nonmembers. Event Coordinator: Mike Kacmar PORTLAND HISTORY HIKES: SELLWOOD RIVERFRONT TO JOHNSON CREEK LOOP

SUNDAY, APRIL 7

New to Portland, or just curious about the city you live in? Want to wake up late and stick close to town? If so, come join me for a Portland History Hike! For this hike, we’ll be exploring an array of different areas, from the scenic woods of Oaks Bottom up to different neighborhoods in and around Sellwood. 3.75 miles, 110 feet. Meet at the parking lot of Sellwood Riverfront Park, 10:30 a.m. Leader: Krista Collins, krista. eileen.collins@gmail.com.

PORTLAND HISTORY HIKES:WILLAMETTE HEIGHTS TO BALCH CREEK CANYON LOOP

SATURDAY, APRIL 14

Are you new to Portland, or just curious about the city you live in? Want to wake up late and stick close to town? If so, come join me for a Portland History Hike! For this hike, we will explore a bit of Forest park (specifically some of the Wildwood trail along Balch Creek) and the Willamette Heights neighborhood. 4.75 miles, 350 feet.

Meet at the corner of NW 29th and NW Wilson street, 10:30 a.m. Leader: Krista Collins, krista.eileen.collins@gmail.com.

HIKE: COYOTE WALL

SUNDAY, APRIL 15

Loop through quiet oaks and maples to the top of a scenic grassland plateau overlooking the Columbia River. Coyote Wall is on the dry side of the Columbia Gorge, where the sun often shines when it’s raining in Portland. Meet 8 a.m. at Gateway Transit Center. 7.8 miles, 1,800 feet., Dr 120. Leaders: Lauren Sankovitch, lsankovitch@gmail.com and Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu.

HIKE: HAMILTON MOUNTAIN

SATURDAY, APRIL 21

This is a classic hike in the Columbia River Gorge on the Washington Side. You’ll find beautiful gorge vistas, waterfalls, and some steep switchbacks. 7.5 miles round trip, 2,100 feet. Meet Gateway Transit Center, 8 a.m. Drive: 70 round trip.

Washington Discover Pass required. Leader: Patricia Neighbor.

HIKE: MOULTEN FALLS

SUNDAY, APRIL 22

See gorgeous waterfalls right in your own backyard! On this relatively flat trail, we will see Moulten Falls, Lucia Falls, and Yacolt Falls along the beautiful Lewis River. Meet 9:00AM, NW corner Gateway Transit Center.

Distance: 5.9 miles, 260 feet. Drive 60 mi RT. Leader: Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu.

We are the bond stronger than any rope.

Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.

NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT

OUTINGS GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS—HIKES, GEOLOGY, AND CULTURE: MAY 12–20 Enjoy a week in western North Carolina as we explore the spectacular Appalachian scenery along with learning about the geology, flora, and mountain culture of the area. The hikes will be B-level, 7 to 8 miles and elevation up to 2,000 feet, with options for tougher B hikes up to 10 miles and 3,000 feet. The typical pace will be leisurely so we can enjoy the beauty of the oldest mountains in North America, at least two sections of the Appalachian Trail, and one hike in the Pisgah National Forest.

We will have time in the evenings to enjoy the arts, crafts, and music of the area or simply hang out at the Creekside Lodge with its indoor swimming pool, fire pits, and other amenities. We will take a break Wednesday to visit Asheville, N.C., or other places in the area. The outing cost is $495 to $575 depending on number of participants and includes lodging, one meal, and all fees.

Participants are responsible for their other meals, airline cost, and car rental.

Max. 16 participants. $200 deposit due ASAP. For more information, contact leader Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com, 971-8322556; assistant leader Alice Brocoum, alicevivianb@gmail.com, 702-6829653; Advisor/Area Expert: Jim Selby, selbyjb@comcast.net.

HIKING GLACIER NATIONAL PARK: JULY 22–28 Alternates Only. Spend a week hiking the trails in America’s mostbeautiful national park: Glacier.

There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the five days, led by Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Wildlife sightings, mountains carved by intense glaciation, alpine lakes, wildflowers, and rushing streams await you.

The group site will be at KOA in St. Mary’s and we will carpool to the trailheads. Cost: $220 members/ $280 nonmembers. KOA offers tent 42 MAZAMAS

sites, RV hookup, and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost.

Contact Richard at teambears@ frontier.com for an application.

There will be a pre-outing meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.

NEW! HIKING THE SPANISH PYRENEES: JULY 25–AUG. 8 The Pyrenees are an amazing mountain system that act as the natural border between Spain and France. The GR11 (Grand Route or Gran Recorrido) is a trail of 522 miles that takes you from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea across these beautiful mountains. We will be hiking around 90 miles of the first part of the GR11 for 12 days. We will start in Puerto de Urkiaga and finish in Canfranc. We will be sleeping in small villages, hostels, campground bungalows, and mountain refuges. We will enjoy the different landscapes that the Pyrenees offer from the lowest altitudes to the highest ones.

Tons of amazing views and lots of mountain passes.

Outing costs of $935 to $1,155 for a group of 10 or 8. Costs include lodging, outing fees, and two group meals. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in May or June.

Contact leader Juanfran Carceles (jfcarmar@gmail.com) or assistant leader Reuel Kurzet (rkurzet@ comcast.net) for more information.

Signup deadline April 15. Deposit of $200 due upon acceptance. Full payment due June 1.

HIKING IN THE NORTH CASCADES: AUG. 12–19 This outing is for those who love spectacular mountain vistas and glorious alpine meadows. You’ll spend seven nights in fully furnished rustic log cabins surrounded by pristine forests in the foothills of Mt. Baker where you can almost reach out and touch the Canadian border.

Each day we will carpool from

the cabins to enjoy either a B- or C-level hike. The hikes will offer opportunities for wildlife sightings, wildflowers, waterfalls, and grand panoramic views of snow-capped mountains.

Outing cost is dependent upon the number of participants, 9 minimum/12 maximum. Member range is $446–$333; nonmember range is $516–$403. The cost includes all fees and lodging. Each participant is responsible for his/ her own food. Dinner is available at nearby restaurants.

The signup deadline is May 1, 2018.

A deposit of $200 is required upon acceptance of application. For more information please contact either Larry Solomon, muensterhump@ hotmail.com or co-leader Sherry Bourdin, sbourdin@reig.com.

TRINITY ALPS HIGH ROUTE TREK: SEP. 8–14 Alternates Only. Join us as we hike a large portion of northern California’s Trinity Alps High Route. This ~35-mile alpine trek circumnavigates the Canyon Creek drainage and includes the summits of up to four named peaks in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The six to eight participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50-mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, up to 10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near zero to almost 5,000 feet.

A $100 deposit will be required upon acceptance. Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant Brooke Weeber (bweeber@ gmail.com) for more information.

More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon on Thursdays–Noon on Mondays.

If you are looking to fit in another weekend of spring skiing the middle two weekends would be a great time to stay with us as we have a lot of availability. Our wood supply made it through the winter but we are going to run out before the next work party. If you would like to enjoy a fire this spring please bring your own wood.

SPRING WORK PARTY: MONDAY, MAY 28 To help build up our wood supply we are having our spring work party on Monday, May 28 (Memorial Day) from 9 a.m.–3 p.m. All volunteers will be treated to a free lunch. Volunteers are welcome to come up the night before and enjoy free lodging. If you join us on Monday you will receive a free lodging coupon that you can use on a later date.

SUMMER SPEAKER SERIES

In May–September we will be hosting a speaker the first Sunday of the month. The summer speaker series offers dinner at 5 p.m. and a program at 6 p.m. Dinner is $13.25.

HILL WALKING IN IRELAND

SUNDAY, MAY 6

Trek along with Alice Brocoum, Carol Beauclerk and Rex Breunsbach on Ireland’s Wicklow Way, south of Dublin and the Western Way, north of Galway: two of the many long distance self-guided walking trails in Ireland. These trails travel through a patchwork of landscapes and historic sites. Experience the vibrant culture and history of Ireland close-up while walking along national trails and country lanes. We travel through mountains, upland lakes, peat bogs, steep-sided glacial valleys, fast flowing streams, forests, and farmlands. Each night is a unique stop along the way, from farm to B&B to manor house.

SWITZERLAND’S “BERNER OBERLAND” & HIKING THE HAUTE ROUTE SUNDAY, JUNE 3

Join Ann Ames and Tom Davidson to catch a glimpse of the Bernese Alps and to see the vibrant beauty of France and Switzerland from the Haute Route path. The Bernese Alps in Central Switzerland offer rugged glaciers and high alpine lakes, fervent meadows full of cowbell toting bovines, and a never ending landscape of trails for hikers of all abilities. The trip began in the cozy and high village of Gimmelwald for four days of hiking the Lauterbrunnen Valley trails, before starting the eleven day Haute Route trek out of Chamonix, France. The Haute Route is a lesser known Alps’ trek (125 miles) connecting Chamonix in the West to Zermatt in the East. We did not use a guide service or company.

APRIL 2018 43

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A2 Apr 01 (Sun) Forest Park Reuel Kurzet rkurzet@comcast. net. We’ll take the 101 public stairs at 3418 Thurman up to NW Aspen, enjoying the neighborhood architecture plus city views on the hilltop at NW Savier. Then into the woods at the Aspen and Raleigh trailhead. From there we’ll walk along the Wildwood to the Alder Trail, down to Leif Erikson Drive, and loop back to our cars on NW Thurman. 6.5 mi., 700 ft., Drive 14, MMC 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Apr 01 (Sun) Swale Canyon, Klickitat Trail Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. The hike along Swale Creek is the most remote section of the Klickitat Trail on the Washington side of the gorge above Lyle. We will start at a high trailhead and descend the canyon.

Mileage will depend on weather and conditions. RSVP by phone or at breivog@teleport.com 15 mi., 1,010 ft., Drive 130, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

(GH,WO) HK B2 Apr 02 (Mon) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista) David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com. Silver Star is a bald, exposed peak in Skamania County in Southwest Washington. It is one of the most prominent peaks visible on the northeastern horizon in Portland, and from places all over the Columbia River Gorge. We will meet in the parking lot towards the southwest side of Fisher’s Landing Transit Center in Vancouver. 7.5 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 54, Fisher 8 a.m. MU Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

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HK A1.5 Apr 03 (Tue) Lyle Cherry Orchard Flora Huber 503-6585710. This little-known gem of a hike on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge offers spectacular views of the Columbia River, amazing spring wildflowers, and a forest of gnarled old oak trees.

6.5 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 140, MMC 9 a.m. MU SS B Apr 03 (Tue) Timberline Lodge to Top of Palmer Mamiko Okada mamiko927@hotmail.com.

Snowshoeing hike up to the top of the Palmer chairlift. Please contact the leader if you have any questions.

2.5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive 120, SnoPark, MMC 8 a.m. (MH) MU HK B2 Apr 04 (Wed) Pup Creek Falls (Indian Henry) (W) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Pup Creek Falls is one of the few notable waterfalls in the Clackamas River area that is accessible by trail. This hike begins at the Indian Henry Trailhead and then undulates from high steep slopes down to river level and back up. 8.5 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 94, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,WO) HK A2.5 Apr 07 (Sat) Forest Park Ken Park kjpark96@gmail.com.

Nice loop in Forest Park that will offers some elevation gain and great view of Mts. Rainier, Adams, and St. Helens when skies are clear. Plan to climb up BPA road and descend Newton Creek. 4.5 mi., 900 ft., Drive 0, Gateway 8 a.m. MU Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS

Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders.

Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI– Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING

Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events.

HK B2 Apr 07 (Sat) Hardy Ridge Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. This lovely loop hike at Beacon Rock State Park will give you great views of the gorge and solitude. 8.1 mi., 2200 ft., Drive 88, Washington Discover Pass to park, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) HK A2 Apr 08 (Sun) Deschutes River Trail Bob Breivogel 503-2922940. Relaxed in and out hike on the old railroad grade along the Deschutes river. Spring wildflowers and birds to be seen along this semidesert trip in rimrock country. 8 mi., 800 ft., Drive 184, Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 08 (Sun) Hillsdale to Council Crest Loop Reuel Kurzet rkurzet@comcast.net. A steep hilly walk with beautiful gardens, interesting architecture, and (on clear days) big views over Portland to the Cascades. Later views west over the Tualatin Valley. Several restaurants are nearby for an optional meal or snack afterwards.

See parking / meeting place URL 5 mi., 650 ft., Drive 0, Park on street at around 1600 SW Pendleton just east of SW Sunset Blvd. 1 block north of DeWitt Park 9 a.m. MU Prior to day of hike, use email contact. Use phone if problems on day of hike only: 503-341-0138.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per

HK B2 Apr 08 (Sun) Dog Mountain Loop Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail. com. It’s the first Mazama Trail Trip to be led on Dog Mountain since the start of limited entry permits!

On an early spring weekend, we’ll have the luxury of neither jockeying for parking nor sharing this superpopular hike with hundreds of fellow hikers. Bring an extra $1.50 for those who purchased a permit on your behalf. RSVP ASAP, as we only have 16 permits. 7.4 mi., 2,800 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 7 a.m. (GH) MU DH B2 Apr 10 (Tue) Crown Zellerbach Trail— Nehalem Divide Section Don McCoy donald1020@ aol.com. Meet at the Chapman Trailhead which is 6.8 miles up the Scappoose-Vernonia Highway from Highway 30. The gravel parking lot is on the left side of the road. We will hike up the old Railroad Bed/ Logging Road through the Forest to Pisgah Lookout Road and then return. Leashed well-behaved dogs are welcome. 8.9 mi., 675 ft., Drive 0, Trailhead 9 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 11 (Wed) Yale Lake Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. We will hike along the lake on a trail converted from an old logging haul road. Expect water crossings and muddy trails. 15 mi., 450 ft., Drive 130, MMC 8 a.m.

vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK A1.5 Apr 12 (Thu) Catherine Creek & Tracy Hill Flora Huber 503658-5710. Wildflowers and a rock arch. Spectacular views of the eastern Columbia Gorge. 5.7 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 138, TH, MMC 9 a.m. (GH) HK B2 Apr 14 (Sat) Sedum Ridge Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. We will hike up the PCT to Sedum Ridge, then back down to the cars on an old, seldom used trail. Expect some bushwhacking. 8 mi., 2,700 ft., Drive 90, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Apr 15 (Sun) Fort-to-Sea Trail, Lewis & Clark Bob Breivogel breivog@teleport.com. Seldom done

by Mazamas. Fort-to-Sea Trail starts from Fort Clatsop north of Seaside.

Two miles take you up to the top of Clatsop Ridge, with view of the Pacific Ocean. Deep woods, wooded pasture, small lakes. Ends at Sunset Beach.

Return to Fort. 12.7 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 164, Sunset Transit Center, NE corner, Hwy26/217 8:30 a.m.

HK B2.5 Apr 16 (Mon) Riverview and Tryon Creek Park Walk Sherry Bourdin 503-314-2911. This is an urban walk that begins at Sellwood Park. We’ll meet in the parking lot on the north side of the Sellwood Bridge.

We begin by crossing the Sellwood Bridge, winding up through Riverview Cemetery to Tryon Creek Park. We’ll then walk a Lollipop route through the park taking a break at the Nature Center on the way and then back to Sellwood Park. This is mostly a walk on paved or unpaved paths and does not require hiking boots. Regardless of the weather, you’ll enjoy the pleasures of spring and seeing some Trillium.

10.4 mi., 1,283 ft., Drive 0. 9 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 18 (Wed) Northern Forest Park Bertie August 503-3580274 or baug357@gmail.com. Hike beautiful trails in lesser traveled Miller Creek Watershed in the northern portion of Forest Park, with potential for observing native birds and mammals. If we have clear skies views of the Columbia River, Sauvie Island, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. St. Helens are likely, as well as the forested corridor between Forest Park and the Coast Range. Hike 6.27 miles, Poles may be useful if recent rain (muddy, slippery).

Meeting at 9 a.m. to carpool from MMC is recommended. Start hiking at 9:45 a.m. on NW Skyline Blvd from the Firelane 15 trailhead, where parking is limited. Emailing the leader for communication is encouraged. 6.3 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 30, MMC 9 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 18 (Wed) Hamilton Mt. Loop Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Enjoy the waterfalls and views on this Gorge loop hike. 7.5 mi., 2438 ft., Drive 80, StatePark, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)

HK B2 Apr 18 (Wed) Timothy Lake Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Partially on the PCT, this hike will continue around the lake. Great views of Mt Hood 12 mi., 200 ft., Drive 160, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (MH) HK A1.5 Apr 19 (Thu) Deschutes River Trail Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

The Deschutes River is best known for river rafting and fishing, but in the winter it offers a good opportunity for backpacking or day hikes. Other good seasons to hike the old railroad grade down the river are spring ( for wildflowers) and fall. Summer is hot, with the sometimes searing heat reflecting off the rimrock, and the river can become a cacophony of rafters. 8 mi., 800 ft., Drive 184, MMC 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 20 (Fri) Oswald West SP Hike William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Great hike on rugged Oregon coast in Oswald West State Park offering nice views and including climbing Mt Neahkahnie.

This hike involves a car shuttle. 11.5 mi., 2000 ft., Drive 156, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU HK A2.5 Apr 22 (Sun) Big Stump, Forest Park mid-section Sue Brickey 971-506-0931. The Big Stump is a shadow of its former self, but just off the Hardesty Trail. This is a pretty flat section of the Wildwood to Hardesty where we will go downhill and then follow Leif Erikson to Springville where we’ll climb back up to Wildwood. Trailhead may be busy so please carpool. 6.3 mi., 100 ft., Drive 0, Trailhead at Germantown Road and Wildwood Trail. 9:30 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Apr 22 (Sun) HardyHamilton Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. We might be a little early for wildflowers, but we should get a terrific view of a changed Gorge from the highest point in Beacon Rock State Park. Then we’ll cross a drainage over to Hamilton Mountain. Up, down, up, down—moving fast for climbing conditioning. Parking is free on Earth Day. RSVP required by Fri 4/20. 11.4 mi., 3,080 ft., Drive 72, Gateway 7 a.m.

(AR,GH) MU

HK C2 Apr 25 (Wed) Huckleberry Mt. (Boulder Ridge) (W) Gary Riggs gary.riggs@ outlook.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Accessed from the bureau of Land Management. Wildwood Recreation Area. Hike along Boulder Ridge to the summit of Huckleberry Mt. in the SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness, where there’s a great view of Mt. Hood.

May encounter late snow--poles, traction devices advisable.

Wilderness Limit 12, so RSVP me. $5 parking pass. 10.6 mi., 3450 ft., Drive 72, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(AR,MH,WO) HK B2 Apr 28 (Sat) Hamilton Loop Kate Evans 503-635-6540.

Enjoy the gorgeous Gorge views on this loop hike. 7.5 mi., 2438 ft., Drive 80, StatePark, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH) HK B2 Apr 29 (Sun) Saddle Mountain Bruce Giordano brucegiord32@gmail.com.

Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to the top of a doublepeaked summit of basalt.

Considering time of year though, be prepared for possible rainy weather. 5.2 mi., 1600 ft., Drive 96, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) MU

SR A2.5 May 02 (Wed) Mt. Tabor Street Ramble from Mazama Mountaineering Ctr. Bertie August. Walk at a brisk pace (2.53.0 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park— we may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (please arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazamas Mountaineering Center 503-2272345 6 p.m.

HK A1.5 May 04 (Fri) Falls Creek Falls (Upper trail) Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Falls Creek Falls is a beautiful, yet powerful waterfall located deep in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

It has three tiers, first dropping 60 feet over a wide ledge, then spreading out and veiling over a 90 foot cliff, and finally it gathers then thunders another 70 feet into a huge bowl. We may do the lower falls only at 3.4 miles and 650 feet elevation. 6.3 mi., 1040 ft., Drive 120, MMC 8 a.m. (WF)

EC MINUTES, continued from previous page the site was upheld for the Bed & Breakfast, but overturned for the campground. The Board of County Commissioners (BoCC) decided that the campground was not compatible with residential use. Teresa will be drafting the decision documents and once finalized the Mazamas has 21 days to appeal the campground denial. Teresa recommends that Mazamas does not appeal, and EC agreed with the recommendation. Lee suggested letting the Mazama Foundation know about the appeal process, timeline, and recommendation before making a final decision on next steps.

Steve Rollins, the Change Management Project contractor, gave a presentation about changes surrounding the Mazamas 2020 Strategic Plan. Steve interviewed staff members as well as key volunteers about Mazamas, the Strategic Plan, and overall organizational direction. Steve believes that the Strategic Plan is at risk due to a lack of organizational alignment about vision, priorities, and goals. Steve suggested that the path forward is to align Mazama members, starting at the leadership level with EC, communicate the Strategic Plan in personal terms that people can easily relate to, create a culture of unity, and seek opportunities to listen and engage with members and volunteers.

Steve will continue to speak with more volunteers in the next few weeks, and will attend the May 6 EC Retreat to facilitate further discussion.

No member chose to speak at the 5:30 p.m. member comment period. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, April 17, at 4 p.m.

APRIL 2018 45

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, March 17. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page).

by Laura Burger, Mazama Development Coordaintor Vice President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, March 20. Laura reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval.

Lee Davis, Executive Director, offered an amendment to the agenda. Motion carried to approve the revised agenda. Treasurer Marty Scott reported that at the end of January, total operating revenue for the year is $405,075, and total operating expenses are $601,058. Total assets are $1,258,481.

Revenue and expenditures are both tracking under budget and current net for the fiscal year is tracking 3% better than budget.

Lee Davis reviewed the 6 month budget reforecast and will be working with the treasurer on how the Lodge renovation project may affect year end budget performance.

Vice President Laura Pigion reviewed the topics for the May 6 board retreat. Board members will discuss priorities within these topics after reviewing the information from Steve Rollins’ report.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis reviewed some upcoming events.

Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey is showing on March 27 and is sold out. Proceeds go towards the Liberty Bell Conservation Initiative. April 25 is the Volunteer Appreciation Event at the Evergreen. The Spring Executive Council Retreat will be held on May 6. Lee provided some updates about the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) and Mazama Lodge. Two more rooms were painted by a volunteer at the MMC and a new presentation screen was installed in the upstairs meeting room. Lee will be reviewing a quote to update the bathrooms at the Lodge over the next month. Program Admin Nights are being organized for the Youth and Education programs. Volunteers will start reaching out to lapsed members this week to bring membership numbers back to or better than last year.

In external reporting, Lee outlined ongoing advocacy work and potential collaborations.

Adam Baylor, Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, has been working regularly with Oregon Outdoors to discuss their priorities.

46 MAZAMAS

The coalition is working on statewide bills for 2019 that will have an impact to getting more people outside in Oregon and increasing funding for our natural resource agencies and for recreation. Adam is also continuing to work on the Recreation Not Red Tape Act. Lee also discussed ongoing difficulties at the US Forest Service due to the budget impacts of wildfires, and was optimistic that a wildfire fix will be passing congress soon. Lee will be attending the upcoming Capitol Summit & Outdoor Alliance (OA) board meeting in April in Washington D.C. OA is currently working with the Access Fund on litigation work to protect Bears Ears National Monument.

An Outdoor Industry group is forming in Portland and has asked Lee to help facilitate their organization. Lee also brought up the recent Dog Mountain permitting and Access issues. The Forest Service recently implemented a recreation fee for Dog Mountain to address a parking problem at the trailhead. Adam is working with other groups to see if the fee was implemented legally and through appropriate channels.

There is concern that the fee could affect access for BCEP groups and Mazamas access to this popular trail. Lee pointed out that the impact of permits on Mt. St. Helens was an 80% drop in Mazama climbs on the mountain, and fears that more permits across the Northwest will have a similar effect on our programs. Lee asked that EC continue to be informed and advocate for the IT Project , and continue to be engaged with the Change Management Project.

Lee Davis introduced Erick Stock as the new Development Director. Most recently, Erica was a development consultant for American Rivers and Trout Unlimited, as well as Interim Executive Director of the Sierra Club, Oregon Chapter. Erica will begin full time on April 2, but will be in the MMC occasionally before that to meet with staff and volunteers.

Claire Nelson, Youth & Outreach Program Manager, held a short a workshop for Diversity, Equality, and Inclusion (DEI) training. Executive Council members

were asked to define diversity, equity, and inclusion, and then discussed the difference between equality and equity. Council members also discussed why DEI work is important for Mazama members and the greater community. Claire asked EC members to read a DEI Reader packet and be ready for an additional discussion at the May Executive Council Retreat.

Traci Manning introduced the list of nominees for the Mazama service, climbing, and hiking awards. Traci moved to approve the full slate of nominees for the awards, and Steve Couche seconded. Motion carried to approve all nominees. Lee Davis then explained a proposed change to the awards nominations process. The proposal would create a single nominations process wherein all voting members of Mazamas may propose nominees for any service award.

EC agreed to this revision of the nominating procedure.

Sarah Bradham, Marketing & Communications Director, gave an update on the IT project. Sarah asked EC members to create their online profiles and become more familiar with the site, as well as point anyone who is experiencing any difficulty in her direction.. Crevasse Rescue and Canyoneering both opened registration on the new site and Crevasse Rescue filled within the week. Forty two climb leaders have added climbs to the schedule with the new system so far. Instructions and videos are available and have been distributed to leaders. Sarah has also been conducting individual training sessions with leaders who have questions. The climb applications will open on April 15. However, we are looking into a tiered application open date to reduce stress on the system and to alleviate anxiety of potential applicants. Staff may need additional support on that day to handle questions and any issues that may arise.

Teresa Bright, Project Manager for the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock, gave an update on the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock. The conditional use permit for

continued on previous page

SAYING GOODBYE Terry Cone, right, on the summit of Mt. Hood with Keith Langenwalter, left. This was Terry’s 65th summit of Mt. Hood and it occurred on his 65th birthday.

TERRY CONE

May 3, 1938–March 8, 2018 Terry Cone, longtime Mazama member, leader, and mentor, passed away on Thursday, March 8, 2018. He was 79-years-old.

Terry joined the Mazamas in May of 1966 after climbing Mt. Hood.

In May of 2003, he marked his 65th birthday by climbing Mt. Hood for the 65th time. Terry moved to Portland in 1965 to work on the construction of the Marquam Bridge. In 1968 he founded the Terry A. Cone Construction Company. Over the next thirty-five years, he completed, by his count, seven hundred and eightysix residential remodels improvements and new construction projects. In 1992 Terry bought the lot next to his home in the Lake Oswego neighborhood of Skyland Circle. Over the next fifteen years, he turned the lot into an unofficial park, complete with swing, flowers, well-manicured lawns, and a gazebo that he built.

‘Cone Park’ as his neighbors call it is a place for folks to meet, play with their kids, and spend time outside. Over the years the park has become the center of the small Skyline Circle neighborhood community and his neighbor’s credit Terry with creating that community.

Terry earned his Seven Oregon Peaks award in 1969 and his Sixteen Northwest Peaks award three short years later in 1972. In addition to climbing Mt. Hood, Terry’s other climbing accomplishments included Kilimanjaro in Africa, Fuji in Japan, and numerous mountains in Europe and South America. He dreamt of climbing Alaska’s Denali and Antarctica’s 16,067 foot Mount Vinson. He had a goal to climb Mt. Hood 100 times, and reached 85 before a leg injury brought his climbing days to an end.

In 2012 the Mazamas honored Terry with the Hardesty Cup. Given to the person who has accumulated the most leader points on trail trips over their hike leading career. That same year Terry was awarded the Trail Trips 400 Leads award. Terry continued to lead street rambles for the Mazamas until 2013. Terry had an unwavering love of the mountains and enjoyed nothing more than sharing that love with everyone around him. Many Mazamas will deeply miss Terry.

Helen (Gross) Hanson receiving her 16 NW Peaks award in 1978.

HELEN HANSON

Dec. 2, 1922–Feb. 19, 2018 Helen Francis (Gross) Hanson joined the Mazamas in 1976. She served on Executive Council twice, from 1989–1991 and again from 2007–2009. Over her many years with the Mazamas Helen served on a variety of committees, including Banquet, Library, Membership, Old Timers’, Outings, Public Relations, and Whitewater.

In addition to hiking and climbing the 16 NW peaks, Helen was an experienced square dancer and dance caller. Early in life, Helen was a ballet dancer who traveled and performed with the USO tours during World War II. She later worked the vaudeville circuit where she met and married her first husband, Leonard Gross. They settled in Portland in 1958 where Helen earned her bachelor’s and master’s degrees from Lewis and Clark College. She taught in the Prescott School district until retiring.

Helen’s true love was for travel, and she led and took part in more than 20 Mazama outings, many with her second husband, Harold Hanson. A few of her favorites included Italy, Bulgaria, Bali, Borneo, Thailand, Hawaii, and the pilgrimage trail Camino De Santiago in Spain. She took part in her last expedition to Patagonia at the age of 89. Helen was known for her adventurous spirit and was an inspiration to many. Her family takes solace in knowing that she is off on one final outing. Helen was fond of saying you are never too old for a new adventure!

APRIL 2018 47

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

UPPER SALMON RIVER HIKE

MONDAY, APRIL 9 AT 9:30 A.M.

If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@ mazamas.org, or classics@mazamas.org.

Email David.R.Christopher@gmail.com for details, registration, and updates. Meet at the Upper Salmon River trailhead at 9:30 a.m.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

THURSDAY, APRIL 12 AT 10 A.M.

We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@ mazamas.org if you are interested.

A morning stroll in the Hoyt Arboretum.

Meet at the visitor center at 10 a.m. and walk the paths down to the Vietnam Memorial than back through the Magnolia Grove. Possibly continuing though the Redwood Grove before heading back.

Approx. 2.5 miles, 400 feet of up and down at 1–1.5 mile per hour pace. Email Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN MAY Send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING MAY 28, 11 A.M.–12:30 P.M. AT THE MMC CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710

48 MAZAMAS

HOYT ARBORETUM STROLL

ESPLANADE/TOM MCCALL WATERFRONT PARK LOOP STROLL

TUESDAY, APRIL 17 AT 10 A.M.

Enjoy a stroll along the Willamette River downtown of 2.5 to 4 miles, depending on the group’s desires. Meet at the foot of SE Madison at the Vera Katz statue on the East Esplanade at 10 a.m. Lunch afterwards at the Theory Café at OMSI. Contact Hal Howard at commerce@ thehowards3.net or call 503-293-1528.

PALMETEER POINT FROM BARLOW PASS

MONDAY, MAY 14 AT 9:30 A.M.

Email David.R.Christopher@gmail.com for details, registration, and updates. Meet at the Barlow Pass/Twin Lake trailhead at 9:30 a.m.

CRYSTAL SPRING RHODODENDRON GARDEN/REED CANYON HIKE

TUESDAY, MAY 15 AT 9:30 A.M.

We will start our hike (stroll in this case) in the Rhododendron Garden with a walk around the many paths. There are lots of benches to sit on and enjoy the wildlife and plant life. Hopefully there are lots of plants in bloom! From there, we will cross 28th and hike the Reed College/Crystal Springs Canyon loop. If you haven’t done this, you will in for a pleasant surprise!

Both of these hikes are easy with little elevation gain and a total distance of about 3 miles. After the hike, we can enjoy lunch at the Reed College cafeteria.

Meet at Rhododendron Garden parking lot at 5801 SE 28th Ave, Portland Dress for the weather; bring some snacks and water. It looks like the Rhododendron Garden is free on Monday and Tuesday, but there is a $4 charge on other days.

Contact Buzz Lindahl, 503-781-8956, erlindahl@gmail.com.

INDICATIONS OF INTEREST— BHUTAN From David Christopher, “If there is a group of Classics who are interested in my organizing and leading a cultural/ hiking outing to Bhutan, they should send me an email so that we can meet in advance to select a time and plan a hiking itinerary what would meet all their interests and needs. I have guided over 30 groups to Bhutan since 1982.” Email David.R.Christopher@gmail.com for details, registration and updates.

Climb Schedule beta.mazamas.org Review pages 17–24 for a “How-To” Guide on getting started on the new website. Including: how to create your account, setting up your profile, applying for badges, and applying for activities.

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