November 2017 Mazama Magazine

November 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 11

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PAFletes: Chris Wright & Jess Roskelley The Mazamas Climbing Crew Ken Hague: A Significant Impact #OptOutside 2017

4.8oz. φ 3.9 x 5.5 in

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

MAZAMA STAFF LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager, mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator, laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

MATTIE COURTRIGHT Marketing & Events Coordinator mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator renee@mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator molly@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager claire@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justin@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator, kelsey@mazamas.org

ADVERTISER INDEX Arc’teryx, p. 33 Centered in Motion, p. 7 Climb for Clean Air, p. 30 Green Trails, p. 22 Icebreaker, p. 32 Leatherman, p. 19 Ledlenser, p. 20 Leki, p. 19 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Hardwear, p. 21

FEATURES

MONTHLY CONTENT

Welcome: Kelsey Shaw & Molly Mosenthal, p. 6

Executive Director’s Report, p. 4 Volunteer, p. 5 Events & Activities, p. 5 Successful Climbers, p. 7 Classics, p. 17 Evening Programs, p. 21 Outings, p. 27 Mazama Lodge, p. 33 AYM, p. 30 Trail Trips, p. 34 Executive Council, p. 36 Obituaries, p. 37 Membership Report, p. 20

Portland Alpine Fest Feature: Clinics, Seminars, Evening Events, p. 8 PAFletes: Chris Wright. p. 12 PAFletes: Jess Roskelley, p. 14 Mazamas Nordic Ski School, p. 16 FM101: High of this Mama’s September, p. 18 #OptOutside, p. 26 Ken Hague: A Significant Impact, p. 28

Next Adventure, p. 7 The Mountain Shop, p. 20 OMC, p. 34 Petzl, p. 32 Pro Photo Supply, p. 31 Rab, p. 38 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 19 The Source, p. 32 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazamabulletin@mazamas.org) Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: PAFlete Jess Roskelley on the last pitch of Cerro Torre in 2014. Photo: Ben Herndon. Jess will be at The Summit on Nov. 18 at Revolution Hall. Above: Glissading on Mt. Adams South Side route. Photo: Ralph Daub.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the

14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

NOVEMBER 2017 3

Portland Alpine Fest: Hitting its Stride Dear Members & Friends,

F

ive years ago we had an idea. What would it look like if we could bring our community together to celebrate mountain recreation?

Other mountain towns have festivals that bring people together to share their passion, learn new skills, and get inspired. While Portland isn’t a classic mountain town, the shadow of Mt. Hood looms large over our city. Many of us have grown up looking at the mountain every day, and we regularly hike, climb, and ski on its flanks. How could we, the Mazamas, utilize the resources we had and create a festival that would generate excitement and form bonds within our community?

Our answer was the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF). In 2013 we launched the idea with 11 events—five clinics, five evening events, and a workshop, taking place over four days. There were four athletes, and seven sponsors signed on to support our fledgling festival, along with seven community partners. PAF was officially off and running.

That first year, PAF saw an attendance of 740 people, most of whom were you— Mazama members. During those four days the excitement was high. Participants were stoked to take clinics and get inspired by Will Gadd, Margo Talbot, John Frieh, and Conrad Anker.

Over the last five years, we have worked to grow and strengthen the festival.

We have experimented with different locations, clinics, and event formats in effort to find the perfect fit for our broader Portland community. Each year we sent out surveys and talked to participants and our partners to find out what our community wants from its own mountain festival.

For PAF17 we believe we’ve created our best line-up yet and have nearly doubled the size of the festival. This year participants get to choose from 19 clinics, 4 seminars, and 8 evening events. There are beginner, intermediate, and advanced clinics covering a variety of mountain sports. The evening events include a movie night, a film premier, local and national athletes sharing their tales of adventure, and the ever popular Portland Ice Comp.

This year The Summit will be bigger than ever with three amazing athletes captivating you with their experiences in

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the mountains. You’ll get to hear from one of our heroes, John Long, the man who wrote the book on rock anchors, from Jess Roskelley, a Pacific Northwest climber who is regularly pushing big objectives while maintaining a healthy marriage, and Katie Bono, who recently set the women’s speed record on Denali and will be heading to medical school very soon. Their stories are sure to inspire you to tackle your next objective, big or small.

Throughout the week you will also have the opportunity to pick up great gear from our sponsors in a variety of raffles and giveaways. You’ll get to talk to reps from gear companies about the latest and greatest in gear. You’ll get to meet with individuals from adventure travel and guiding companies who can help you plan your next adventure, and you’ll have the opportunity to meet with people from our partner nonprofits who are actively working to create opportunities and keep us safe in our outdoor adventures.

Creating and running a festival is not an easy endeavor. It has taken a significant amount of time and energy from our staff, volunteers, and our partners to create PAF. But all of that effort and energy would have been for naught if no one had showed up.

So I want to thank you, our participants and cheerleaders for supporting PAF from its infancy. And for bringing the excitement and energy to the festival ever since. As Aaron Mulkey said in 2014 after teaching and presenting at PAF, “I have never seen so many people so stoked to climb ice who don’t have ice!” We continually strive to design a festival that will help everyone increase their skills, learn something new,

meet new people, and find inspiration. We hope that PAF is doing that for you.

I also want to take a moment to thank our partners that launched PAF with us.

The Mountain Shop has been an amazing local partner for this event since before the concept was even fully fleshed out. They provide not only financial and product support, but chime in on brainstorming sessions, provide space, host events, and help with staffing for events. Grivel took a big chance on us in our first year and signed on as our presenting sponsor. They have stuck with us ever since, and each year they provide more support—if you have taken a PAF clinic that involves ice tools, you have had the opportunity to climb with Grivel tools and crampons.

And to round out our list of our 5-year supporters we have CiloGear, Base Camp Brewing Company, Mountain Hardwear, Petzl, The North Face, and Montbell.

A huge thanks goes out to these seven partners for being there since we launched the festival, for showing up and supporting PAF every year, and helping to guide its success.

In this issue you’ll find details on the festival, including a schedule of events, profiles of PAF athletes, and an idea of some of the gear that you might be vying for throughout the week. There’s something for everyone this year at PAF, from clinics, seminars, presentations, and of course the Summit at Revolution Hall.

See you there!

Lee Davis Mazamas Executive Director

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES RESEARCH COMMITTEE NOV. 2 AT 7 P.M. AT THE MMC Join the research committee and help select which research proposals receive funding. We typically have 2-3 meetings per year. Committee members read and rate all research proposals prior to our spring meeting. Questions? Email research@ mazamas.org.

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES ADVANCED ROCK Are you ready for the 2018 Mazama Advanced Rock/ Beginning Trad class? Information about requirements, applying, the schedule, and other details is now available at tinyurl.com/maz-advancedrock. The application period will open on Dec. 1.

HIKE LEADER TRAINING NOV. 6, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MMC All of our 100+ Trail Trip leaders are volunteers! If you would like to be one of them, it’s easy to get started. We are specifically in need of Ramble (in-town) hike leaders, so if you are interested, please join in on the training. Contact Bill Stein, Trail Trips committee chair at trailtrips@mazamas.org.

YOUTH OUTREACH VOLUNTEERS NOV. 9 AT 6 P.M. AT THE MMC Climbers! Join us to volunteer with Mazama Youth Outreach programs, and partner with youth serving nonprofits to offer empowering climbing education at the MMC and beyond. If you are a returning volunteer, come to learn about who we are working with this year and sign up for upcoming volunteer opportunities. Friends of the Children will be there to talk about their program and working with youth! Stay to the end to complete your belay check and for climbing in the Holman Auditorium. Food and fun provided. RSVP at tinyurl.com/mazyouthvolunteer. Questions? Please contact Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager at claire@mazamas.org

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS We are looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e., Wilderness First Responder or equivalent.

Instructors will work with the First Aid Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum. Email firstaid@mazamas.org if you are interested.

PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL The Portland Alpine Fest is the biggest event that the Mazamas host each year. This festival takes place over 5 days, and we need a team of volunteers to make it all possible. There are a variety of roles available. Please complete the interest form at tinyurl. com/maz-volunteering today!

GET BACK TO THE EARTH We are looking for a team of people that are great at landscaping to help us maintain our Mazama facilities. If you are interested in volunteering, please contact Rick at leftfield5@juno.com.

Larry Buzan belayed by Francisco Villa on the Left Side of the Beard at Smith Rock at AR 2017. Photo: Kim Edger

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS NOV. 28 5–8 P.M. AT THE MMC An open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls with a focus on helping your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere to encourage kids. Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults. ▶▶ Cost: $2 per person/$5 max per family. ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL NOV. 14–18 The Portland Alpine Fest is back! Tickets are available at portlandalpinefest.org. We have a stellar line-up of athletes coming to Portland to teach clinics, seminars, and host events throughout the city.

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NEW MEMBER SERVICES ADMINISTRATOR

WELCOME KELSEY SHAW

Member Services Administrator

We’re happy to welcome Kelsey Shaw to the Mazamas as our new Member Services Administrator, replacing Laura Burger who is now the Mazamas Development Coordinator.

Kelsey comes to the Mazamas from Pacific University, where she earned a Bachelors of Art in Anthropology in 2014 and proceeded to work in Mail Services for several years. At the Mazamas, Kelsey oversees membership services with a focus on building and maintaining positive relationships with guests, members, and volunteers. Kelsey also contributes to the management of the member database, class and program registration, and provides administrative support for committees and other groups using the MMC. In addition to the Mazamas, Kelsey works at the REI Co-op in NW Portland, where she meets many Mazama members and has learned much about the Northwest’s outdoor scene. In her spare time Kelsey enjoys yoga, hiking, camping, traveling, and playing Futsal with friends.

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WELCOME MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator Molly spent her childhood exploring the magic of the Green Mountains in Vermont, where she developed an untamed curiosity for the natural world.

Craving more exploration of the unknown, she took off to Colorado, where she graduated from the University of Denver with degrees in geography and Spanish.

She has spent time adventuring, studying, and teaching environmental education across the United States as well as in Argentina, Spain, Mexico, and the Czech Republic. Molly was the assistant field coordinator with Thorne Nature Experience in Colorado, working with children ages 3–17. She’s previously served as camp counselor, language tutor, and teaching assistant, among other positions.

With a never-satisfied appetite for new places, she left the sunny Colorado Plateau and set out for the Pacific Northwest, where she has fallen in love with the diversity of landscapes to explore. In her spare time, she enjoys skiing, hiking, swimming in chilly mountain waters, and letting the wind blow her in the direction of her next endeavor. This past summer, Molly jumped in as our Adventure WILD! Summer Day Camp Manager and ran five successful weeks of fun, science, and adventure for youth at the MMC and at the Mazama Lodge.

We are thrilled to welcome her as the Youth Programs Coordinator, where she will support the Mazama Mountain Science School and help Adventure WILD get bigger and better for the coming summer!

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS July 1, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst: Del Profitt. Scott Auble, Michael Jeletic, Dirk Lakeman, Byung-Chan Lee, Geoff Melly, Ellen, Carrie Sept. 16, Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Jay Satak. John Andrews, Jacob Childers, Kendra Childers, Paul Grugan, Bill Guiffre, Ryan Maher, Andrew Rios, Timothy Smith, Adrianna Stanley, Luis Valdes Sept.16, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Michael Lewis. John Borsuk, Noelle Price, John Wilson Sept. 17, Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Jay Satak. Terry Brenneman, Sara Jensen, James Jula, Joshua Lupkin, Margaret McCarthy, Geoff Melly, Brad Ostapkowicz, Joe Petsche, Stacia Torborg Sept. 23, Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Seeger Fisher. Ann Marie Ames, Tom Davidson, Amad Doratotaj, Jeff Earll, Mark Fowler, Christine Yankel Oct. 7, Plummer, Standard. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Seeger Fisher.

Carmel Adrian Oct. 8, Eagle-Chutla, Longmire Trail. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Seeger Fisher. Carmel Adrian

DID YOU KNOW? In 2018 the Mazamas will be launching an entirely new website that will eliminate the 41 year old climb card procedure!

The new website will allow you to create a Mazama profile that will include your contact information, training history, and climbing history (both Mazama and non-Mazama)—all information that you currently have to enter onto a climb card.

You’ll apply for climbs and be accepted via the new online system.

Keep your eye out for details on what to do with your old climb cards.

503.684.9698

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Portland Alpine Fest

NOV. 13–18

It’s almost time! We are just a few short weeks from the start of the Portland Alpine Fest. The week will be filled with inspiring speaker events, clinics & seminars, and the biggest event of them all—The Summit: An Evening of Alpinism. The Portland Alpine Fest is a community-centric event for everyone who loves to play in the mountains. Hear from local and nationally known athletes who will share their highs and lows in the mountains with you throughout the week. Along the way you’ll have the opportunity to win great gear in our raffles, sample tasty beverages, and mingle with other folks who share your passion.

HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS During the 6 days of the festival there are 6 speaker series events, 19 clinics, 4 seminars, a photo contest, the Portland Ice Comp, and The Summit! Here we are highlighting just a few of the 32 events that are taking place during the festival.

Jess Roskelley

THE SUMMIT

5:30–10 p.m. at Revolution Hall Come out to hear John Long, Katie Bono, and Jess Roskelley share their experiences in the mountains. In addition to their stories, you’ll also have the opportunity to talk to a variety of reps from companies producing outdoor gear and providing outdoor experiences, and enjoy tasty food from some local vendors. There will be raffle prizes, door prizes, and an opportunity to get your name entered into a drawing. John Long will also be signing copies of his book during the event.

Katie Bono

Get tickets now at:

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John Long

Clinics & Seminars SEMINAR: CAPTURING THE MOMENT Nov. 15, 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center More and more of us are heading to the hills with our cameras in tow, looking to capture these defining moments both in still shots and in Graham video. In this seminar you’ll learn Zimmerman from a pro, including everything from what equipment to take on what climbs to how to charge your gear in basecamp. This seminar is appropriate for beginning and advanced photographers/videographers.

Instructor: Graham Zimmerman CLINIC: INTRO TO MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ICE Nov. 15, 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center This class will break down the micro movements that are needed to help you understand movement.

Video will be used to help you Marcus Garcia see what is taken place as you make moves. The video helps you see where the breakdown of the movement is. Then it can be corrected and help you gain success on your next project or outing.

Instructor: Marcus Garcia CLINIC: INTERMEDIATE/ ADVANCED ICE & MIXED TECHNIQUES Nov. 16, 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Learn advanced techniques to improve the fun factor/efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide Chris Wright you through the steeper stuff.

Additionally, learn techniques to move through the terrain when the ice gets thin or simply disappears. Mastering the skills in this clinic can potentially open doors to new, longer, and more technical venues in vertical world. Instructor: Chris Wright

CLINIC: INTERMEDIATE/ ADVANCED MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ICE Nov. 16, 8–11 a.m. at The Source The micro-movements are used to help you understand what muscle groups are used for certain moves. Tool position and body position is broken down to understand why the tool is Marcus Garcia used in a certain way. Video is used to show the relationship between the tool placement and the body position.

A series of advanced moves will be set up and the movement broken down into isolation. Instructor: Marcus Garcia CLINIC: INTERMEDIATE/ ADVANCED MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ROCK Nov. 17, 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite This class will break down the micro movements that are needed to help you increase your efficiency. Video will be utilized to help you see what is Marcus Garcia taking place as you move on the wall.

You’ll go over your video with Marcus and learn where your movement is breaking down. You can then learn the techniques to make corrections to help you gain success on your next project or outing.

Instructor: Marcus Garcia SEMINAR: PREPARING & TRAINING FOR EXPEDITION CLIMBING Nov. 18, 9 a.m.–Noon at the Mountain Shop Katie Bono has been on more than a few expeditions, most recently setting the women’s speed record on Denali. It takes a lot of planning Katie Bono to set yourself up for success on an expedition. Katie will share with you her tips and techniques on how to streamline your expedition planning so that the majority of focus can be on the fun stuff—the actual climbing! Instructor: Katie Bono CLINIC: INTRO TO ICE/MIXED CLIMBING Nov. 18, Noon–3 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Are you completely new to climbing?

Or are you a rock or gym climber but have never swung an ice axe? Have you ice climbed before but would like to know the secrets to efficient movement? Are you intrigued by Aaron Mulkey moving up rock using tools instead of your hands? Then this basics clinic is for you! You will learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. You will have access to a variety of tool types and learn techniques to use them. Instructor: Aaron Mulkey NOVEMBER 2017 9

Evening events Graham Zimmerman

HAM & EGGS: BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS Tuesday, Nov. 14, 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

After spending a few seasons ice climbing, Rebecca Madore and Katie Mills used their Mazamas Alpine Adventure Grant to travel to the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaskan Range to test their mettle on the classic route Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth.

Rebecca Madore

Chris Wright

OBJECTIVE UNKNOWN: A CLIMBING ADVENTURE IN PAKISTAN Wednesday, Nov. 15, 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

Have you ever set off for a climb without knowing exactly what you were going to climb? Or even where you were going? Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman, 2016 Mazama Bob Wilson Grant recipients, will share their recent experience in Pakistan with us tonight, in addition to discussing some of their previous exploits in the mountains as a team.

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Katie Mills

THE MIXTRESS Thursday, Nov. 16: 7–9 p.m. at Patagonia

Tonight Dawn Glanc will debut The Mixtress in Portland. This short film details the evolution of mixed climbing in North America, and the story is told through the eyes of the woman who shaped the sport into what it is today. Kitty Calhoun, Kim Csizmazia, Sarah Hueniken, Jen Olsen, Dawn Glanc, and Katie Bono are the women who bring the story of mixed climbing to life. This film will inspire you to pick up some ice tools and start scratching around. Dawn is the producer of the film and will both introduce the film and talk about her experience bringing this story to the screen after the film. This event is co-hosted with Patagonia Portland.

Dawn Glanc

PORTLAND ICE COMP Friday, Nov. 17, 6–10 p.m. at Planet Granite

Now in its 12th year the Portland Ice Comp is changing it up in a new location. Participants will have the opportunity to tackle a new challenge at Planet Granite while vying for great prizes as they put their skills to the test against the local climbing community. Come on out to watch all the action unfold. There will be drinks, a raffle with great outdoor gear, and social time with friends.

Get tickets now at:

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e are extremely proud to have such an amazing lineup of athletes coming to Portland for this years' Portland Alpine Festival. Their varied expertise and experiences will be sure to amaze everyone who comes to The Summit and also those lucky enough to get into one of their clinics and seminars.

This is part two of two of our features getting to know more about the PAFletes. From humble beginnings to giant summits, here's a little bit of how they got started and what they are up to now.

We hope this gets you psyched to come and hang out with such an inspiring group of doers. At the Mazamas, we always reach for our own personal heights, and these athletes strive to do the same every day.

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Interview by Kevin Machtelinckx As you grew up, was climbing on your radar at all? If not, what was? What did you think you wanted to do with your life?

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he short answer on this one is no—I had no idea what climbing was. I guess like the rest of the non-climbing public I may have been vaguely aware that it was a thing people did, but it wasn’t a thing anyone I knew did so when I discovered it I remember asking myself why nobody had told me, because I thought it was the most amazing thing I’d ever done. Growing up in Northeastern

Pennsylvania I had an appreciation for outside in that I spent countless hours playing in some beautiful woods as a kid, skateboarded and snowboarded obsessively in high school, but I think by growing up where I did all I really knew was that I wanted to get out. I left Mountaintop, which is about as small as it sounds, when I went to college and, even though Manhattan wasn’t that far away physically, it felt like the opposite of a small town in the Poconos.

I went to study film production and I thought I wanted to travel to make movies, but in the end I’ve sort of come to realize that what I really wanted was just to see the world, to share meaningful experiences with people, and to maybe work with those people to make some stories. So in a sense what I’m doing now isn’t all that far off.

Was there a moment or experience for you that made you think “Climbing/ alpinism is what I want to do with my life”?

I can’t remember a single moment of inspiration so much as I can remember the feeling after just going out for the first time. I had a buddy in college who was a climber, and one day he just asked if I wanted to go rock

climbing. I remember saying sure, not knowing anything about it and of course not knowing that the Gunks, where we were headed, was a world-class climbing area. I just remember asking what to wear.

Al told me to wear normal clothes, but I somehow didn’t believe him and wore gym shorts. Anyway, I remember going out to Pete’s Kill and hiking like a half an hour to the top of the cliff and watching Al rig some ovals and webbing around a tree. We dropped the rope down, and not knowing how to rappel (or even that that was what we would have done if we’d had a clue), we walked all the way back around to the base. Then we’d top-rope these crazy steep routes and go swinging off the routes into the trees, laughing and I’m sure looking like complete idiots. Then of course we’d walk all the way back around, move the rope to a different tree and do it all again.

And yet I don’t remember feeling selfconscious about it at all. I just remember thinking, “This is fun. I wish I’d known about this earlier, because damn, this is fun.” After that it was all over. As soon as I became aware that people went ice climbing I wanted to do it, and as soon as I saw what alpinists were I wanted to be one, and for me I think even when I was just learning for some reason I just assumed that the end goal was to go someplace to do big new routes. As my climbing progressed of course I found out that not everyone shared that vision, but I was lucky to learn from a lot of great folks and have awesome partners early on, to survive my own idiocy and here we are.

You are a self-described ‘avid firstascensionist’. What advice do you have for those of us who aspire to similar dreams?

That’s a tough one, because on the one hand I want to tell people to just buy the ticket and go, and at the same time I can’t say that’s exactly what I did. As I said, I guess I always knew that I wanted to climb big things, but I think since I didn’t start until I was maybe 20 (I’m 34 now) I knew I had a lot to learn. I was just figuring it all out as I went along, and I was lucky to climb with folks who helped me hone the skills I needed, whether through bigwalling in Yosemite, doing the same in

winter, ice climbing, guiding - which of course hones your mountain sense by putting you out there so many days in a year, especially on days you don’t really want to go out, going on big ( for us) alpine trips to the Rockies, and plugging into the incredible community of climbers and guides who called Bend home at that time. Through those connections it felt like I put in enough time to be proficient in most disciplines, and I just happened to meet a local hardman named Mark Deffenbaugh—who I think will end up being remembered as prolific in our little Oregon climbing community; you’ll see his name on new routes all over, from Ozone to Beacon to Smith and a million other little-known spots in Central Oregon—and become buddies with him at just the right time in my life. He and I are still friends, but honestly I say I didn’t just buy the ticket and go because it was Mark that not only opened my eyes to the possibilities, but took me under his wing and taught me the craft of new routing. He taught me everything from how to see a line to how to place a bolt, and he taught me an appreciation for the craft of opening routes. Going out with him I started doing new, mostly small rock routes at home in Oregon, but it helped me to see the way and I took that with me to the mountains.

So I guess what I’m trying to say is that I want to encourage anyone with the skill and motivation to just get out there and do it, but I also know that part of the game of new routing that you just can’t discount is community, and the kind of mentorship you just can’t really experience without engaging with people who can help you see the big picture. Sometimes you just need someone to help point you in the right direction, you know? Then it’s up to you, and you really do just have to go do it. You’re probably going to go screw it all up at some point in the process of learning some of the lessons that just have to come the hard way, but that’s kind of just how it is. Failure is a part of doing big things, but you still have to go out there and fail, and hopefully it’s going to make you stronger, make you and your partners closer, and get you that much closer to your dreams.

On that note, I’d love to offer whatever help I can to anyone who wants it. I’m at

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JESS ROSKELLEY

Finding his Place in the

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by Jonathan Barrett

J

ess Roskelley is a guy who is obsessed with climbing.

It is logical, of course, that the alpinist who ticked off the unclimbed South Ridge of Huntington in Alaska would be single-minded about his climbing.

However, he was not always this way. One might expect that the son of celebrated mountaineer, John Roskelley, would have felt the from the very beginning the lure of the mountains, but it was not always there for him as a kid.

Despite being very aware of his father’s climbing career and even dabbling in climbing as a kid, he was not particularly interested in the sport when he was young.

In high school he was like most teenagers. He did not think much about the future or about what he wanted to be. His priorities were, in his words, “wrestling and chasing girls.”

Paradoxically climbing was at the same time an integral part of his life. When he started guiding on Rainier at eighteen, it was not a big deal to him. He described it as a, “way to get out of the house and make a little money.” Perhaps this should have been the first indication that he was due for much bigger things when a nonchalant job for him is a lofty aspiration for many young climbers. He continued to climb off and on in his late teens and early twenties but not particularly seriously. At that time in his life, he would, “run out with some other kids,” and occasionally put himself in danger. Climbing was a thing on the side.

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Jess Roskelley with his mother in 1986. Photo: John Roskelley

It was not until he was twenty-five that there was a shift. Like many climbers, there was a moment, a single climb that reframed his perspective on the sport.

Slipstream, a famous alpine line on Snow Dome, caught his imagination, and he asked his father, who was sixty at the time, to join him. Plans went awry though when the weather turned sour.

He and his father were forced into an open bivy by terrible conditions, and the rangers were sent out to rescue them.

The experience made him realize that climbing could be an intellectual pursuit as much as a physical one. He wanted

to know how to do it better and to gain the knowledge that he was missing. Jess has that pivotal experience and has not looked back since.

Although he has made other mistakes from time to time, he has learned to be patient while acquiring his skills. He noted that, “some guys go out full bore,” when beginning their career in alpinism, and there is the tendency to make mistakes. He described his progression and growth as being a natural one.

When asked if he has had any close calls, he admitted that they have become more frequent in recent years. Two stand out

in his mind. In Patagonia he recently ended up climbing a serac that he recognized at the time was highly risky. The next day, the glacier cut loose over the path that he had just been on. On Mt. Huntington, he almost took a fatal ride when an icy glove led to unclipping a carabiner.

Jess acknowledges that he does take some risks on climbs and that the more challenging the objective the greater his tolerance for risk is. The question is, of course, why. The longer he has been at the game, the more confident he has become in his skills and judgment, and the deeper his motivation is to strive for lofty goals.

It is an obsession for him now. Jess believes that all serious climbers feel the compulsion in some way or another. For him, “it runs the show.” Climbing has determined his choice of job as a contract welder, the locations for vacationing with his wife, and the way that he eats every day.

He recognizes that he is very fortunate that climbing continues to bring meaning and purpose into his day to day existence. “Life is simple on a mountain. Your only job is to survive,” he said. “I feel like life would be mundane without the experiences I get while climbing mountains.”

The experiences that his has in the mountains sustains him in his normal day to day life.

When asked what his endgame was, he responded in the following way: “To be content is the endgame.”

Has he achieved this yet? In his mind, the answer is a resounding yes. Somehow he manages to be both driven to achieve at higher and higher levels, and at the same time be satisfied with all that he has already done. When asked about what it was like to be the son of a prominent alpinist and whether he felt the pressure to follow in his father’s footsteps, he said, “Somehow my dad did it the right way, when it came to me with climbing.” Jess was allowed to find it on his own terms and define satisfaction by his own criteria.

Chris Wright, continued from previous page least good at getting excited. Best piece of advice I can give actually is one that Mark gave me years ago, which is that you’ll never try harder than you will on your own routes. I didn’t get it at the time, and maybe it’s not the same for everybody, but it’s true for me. I’ll walk away from your god-awful scary hard route that took years to do as soon as I decide the holds are too small or that it’s too cold. I’m not going to kill myself for a hard repeat. But if it’s new, if it’s my god-awful scary sufferfest, then I’m all in.

On your site, you talk about food, beer, and coffee a lot. I think many of us can relate. When you’re in the mountains, how much do you think about those things?

I’m terrible and always thinking about food. Graham and I have found we’re polar opposites in that regard. He makes this absolutely foul, but nutritionally ace brown powdered mix I’ve dubbed “technosludge” and could basically live off it in the mountains. I’m lusting after cheeseburgers, and will literally read food articles in the NY Times while I’m in basecamp. I don’t know why I torture myself I guess, but needless to say we take obscene amounts of chocolate and cheese and sausages (Olympic Provisions if possible) and try to do the best we can. At some point even a six-week old unrefrigerated Babybel seems like a treat, but I’m always craving something. I’d take a cheeseburger right now if you had one.

We all have important figures in our lives that support us (or don’t) in these activities that we choose to engage in. Can you talk a little bit about who those figures are for you and why they are important with regards to the decisions that you make?

I’ve always felt really supported by my friends, my family and especially my partners. I know my

parents worry and don’t really get it, but they still try their best to be supportive. I have the most amazing friends though, and even if they’re not climbers they’re people who aren’t afraid to go for it, and so they get it and they’re with me. With my climbing partners I just make sure to go out with people I love and with whom I see eye to eye. It’s a fine line encouraging someone to hang it all out there and give everything they’ve got, yet to do it mindfully and carefully, but somehow that’s what we do. That’s what you want in your climbing partners, someone who pushes you, but also pushes you to make good decisions and come home safely. To me that’s going to equal success in the long game.

Ok... I have to ask. What is your go-to beer in summer? Winter?

I’m a total beer dork, so I can’t peg it to just one, no matter what the season. What I can say is that I always take my Oregon beer snobbery with me, for good or ill, and we brew good beers in all seasons. Funny thing though is that when I’m here for a while sometimes I get burned out on all the hops and what sometimes feels like an arms race to make beer taste like pine trees, but after a few months away (especially in France), just gimme the pine trees and plug it into my veins. If I had to say though, I’d take a Boneyard RPM IPA or a Weihenstephaner Weissbier in summer, and in winter I’ll go for a Jubelale on Nitro at Deschutes, preferably on Monday so I can get a Local’s Night deal on a cheeseburger.

With fries.

NOVEMBER 2017 15

MAZAMAS NORDIC SKI SCHOOL The Mazamas Nordic Ski School typically offers three types of cross-country skiing classes: Classic, Telemark, and Backcountry. (Ski Mountaineering is taught as a separate program.)

The Nordic Ski School program consists of a mandatory evening Student “Meet Your Instructor” Orientation on Tuesday, Jan. 9, 2018, followed by 3 class sessions on consecutive weekends, either Saturday or Sunday, whichever day you registered for. Classes anticipated to start Jan. 20 & 28, 2018, the weekend after Martin Luther King day.

Online Registration, Nov. 1– Dec. 1. mazamas.org/educationclasses/nordic-ski-school/ NOTE: Instructor availability and weather conditions can sometimes lead to re-scheduling or cancellations!

QUESTIONS ABOUT MAZAMA NORDIC SKI SCHOOL?

Check the Nordic webpage for detailed class descriptions, pricing and other useful information! mazamas.org/education-classes/ nordic-ski-school/ Email the Mazama Nordic Committee at nordic@ mazamas.org or the Mazama Mountaineering Center at adventure@mazamas.org.

ARE OUR CLASSES FULL?

More Nordic ski classes and tours are available through the Oregon Nordic Club. Private lessons available through Wy’East Nordic http://www.wyeastnordic. com/xc-ski-cross-country.htm

16 MAZAMAS

NORDIC SKI SCHOOL INSTRUCTORS The Nordic Ski School instructors are Nordic skiing enthusiasts and volunteer to teach Nordic skiing simply for the love of the sport. They have First Aid and CPR certification and receive professional instructor training (Wy’East Nordic), guidelines, and support from the Mazamas. The Nordic Committee pays for these trainings! Each class also has at least one assistant instructor.

APPLY

If you are interested in teaching or assisting with a Mazama Nordic Ski School class, or just have questions about it, please contact nordic@ mazamas.org. The application is online at mazamas.org/educationclasses/nordic-ski-school.

INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS ▶▶ Attend Instructor Orientation annually ▶▶ Attend at least one day of the Instructor Clinic bi-annually (PISA Certified Professional Instructor training is paid for by Mazamas.) ▶▶ Standard First Aid and CPR Certification (reimbursed up to $70)—Lead: Required; Assistant: Recommended.

▶▶ (Assistant): Completed Mazama intermediate level ski class OR recommended by a Mazama Ski instructor ▶▶ (Lead): Recommended by lead instructor of class they assisted IMPORTANT DATES ▶▶ Dec. 1, 2017 (Friday)—Instructor application deadline ▶▶ Dec. 12, 2017 (Thursday)— proposed date for Mandatory Instructor Orientation (6:30 p.m.) ▶▶ Dec. 16–17, 2017 (Sat & Sun)— proposed dates for Instructor Clinics at Mt. Hood. There will be 1 or 2 Instructor Clinics. ▶▶ Jan. 9, 2018 (Tuesday)—Student Orientation/Meet Your Instructor Night—6:30 p.m. check-in (start at 7 p.m.) at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. ▶▶ Jan. 20, 27, and Feb. 3, 2018 (Saturdays) or Jan. 21, 28, and Feb. 4, 2018 (Sundays)—Nordic classes

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or classics@mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN DECEMBER Those wanting to lead events send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month, 11am–12:30pm at the MMC. The upcoming meetings are Nov. 27 and Jan. 22. There is no meeting in December.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can contact Flora Huber at classics@mazamas.org or 503-658-5710.

CLASSICS HAVE A NEW CHAIR! A big thank you to Flora Huber for stepping forward to take on the chair of the Classics for 2018. We sure appreciate it, Flora! Flora will also be taking on coordinating the transportation planning for the Classics. Thanks to Rose Marie Gilbert for her leadership these past three years of our Classics group!

And a big thanks to Marty Hanson for serving as liaison between Executive Council and the Classics these last two years.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. You don’t have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and state how you can help.

CLASSICS LUNCHEON AT MAZAMA LODGE The Classics Lodge Luncheon on September 8 was enjoyed by the 27 people who attended. Mathew Brock, Mazamas Library & Historical Collections Manager, spoke about two of the latest items received by the archives. He thanked Dick Miller for one of them, the original climb register box placed on Mt. Hood in 1894 by the Mazamapredecessor the Alpine Club. Matthew showed a 15-minute restored film of Mazama climbs of Mt. Hood and Mt. Olympus from 1937–1939.

He has rosters of those climbs and is trying to put names with faces.

Matthew will screen another film at the Holiday Lunch on Dec. 8.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCH AT MMC FRIDAY, DEC. 8 Join us for our annual holiday luncheon on Friday, Dec. 8.

A $5 donation is requested and be sure you RSVP at tinyurl.com/maz-classicmazamas by Friday, Dec. 1 as this helps us determine how much food to have prepared.

Lunch is at 11:30 a.m.

Lee Davis, Mazama Executive Director, will be speaking and we will pass out 25- and 50-year pins. This year, we have 34 new 25-year members and 15 new 50-year members joining our ranks.

Matthew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager will screen a film at the Holiday Lunch. Last year we had to reschedule because of weather, but hopefully the weather gods will be on our side this year!

NEW 25-YEAR MEMBERS Rick Bestwick Candace Bonner Matt Carter Russell Chamberlain Yvon Chouinard Martin Crouch Pat Deschene Shelley Everhart Robert Everhart Carol Federiuk Judy Fiestal Jeff Fossum Dan Fost Daisy Franzini Lise Freeman Meg Goldberg Tom Gordon Ken Gray Martin Hanson Scott Ingalls Michael Johnson Barry Keller Jill Kellogg Diane Kong James Mater Jim Neidhart James Ouchi Frank Palmrose Audrey Schiefelbein Mike Schoen Andrew Tang Christine B Wilson Barbara Wilson Joan Zuber

NEW 50-YEAR MEMBERS Cynthia Cristofani Thomas Culhane Cheryl Degner Jerald Denton Gene Derry Paul Fellner Steve Haugen Robert Hyslop Nancy Kennaway Dennis Kuhnle Alan Neuburger Mark Salter Carol Steffen Lloyd Weisensee James Whinston

We hope to see all of you new Classics at the Holiday Luncheon, where you will receive your special membership pin!

NOVEMBER 2017 17

Families Mountaineering 101

Highlight of this Mama’s September

by Dafna Lohr

The Mazamas climbing crew…

by Zandy Lohr, (Almost) age 8 The Mazamas climbing crew is a group of people that go climbing. We practice in a gym, then we go outdoor climbing. We also go camping and do a potluck for dinner. There will be a person in charge of the potluck, and also the students get to bring food for the potluck. There are a couple of regular climbing trips, then it’s mostly snow and ice. At the very end of the class there is some more rock climbing! Sometimes we climb cliffs like Horsethief and sometimes we climb mountains like Mt. Hood. At the Mazamas training gym we do different classes. There are family nights, gear nights, meetings, rappelling, belaying, and much more. They do all these classes at the Mazamas training gym so you can do them all when you go outdoor climbing. The Mazamas climbing crew is all you could wish for!

Above: Authors Dafna and Zandy Lohr at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Rich Hunter. Inset: Momma Daughter power! Photo: Christine Rontal.

18 MAZAMAS

“

I used to go on great adventures, but now I have kids.”

How many times have we heard that one? For most people who have an infant or toddler, packing up that little bundle of joy and schlepping out into the bush is not going to happen. It would simply not be enjoyable, considering the diapers and tantrums. My daughter is now turning eight. She has an appreciation for the outdoors because we never stopped camping and hiking, and we taught her how to ski. So, this year I decided it was high time to get back on the outdoor adventure train. Not because she is old enough that she doesn’t need me, rather, she is old enough that she can join me.

I learned to rock climb and navigate in a canoe when I was in middle school. When I was in college, I learned how to pack through the backcountry. Even when I was in medical school, I found a group of friends who shared my love of the outdoors, and we went climbing and skiing as much as our schedules allowed. Before we started our family, my husband and I went on some fantastic backpacking and sea kayaking trips.

Nine years ago, a friend of mine, who happens to be a Mazama, got a group permit to climb Mount St. Helens. It was October in the Pacific Northwest. Overcast, but pleasant at the base­—perfect hiking weather.

However, by the time we were within a quarter mile of the summit, where one would get to peek into the crater, there was no visibility due to snow and wind. Obviously, we needed to turn around. I was the most disappointed among us because I knew it was my last chance to do something like this for quite a while. A few months later I was happily pregnant. Of course, I do not regret having children. But now that my daughter is old enough, I am really excited that she has the ability and the desire to do these kinds of things with me. The challenge is that my

leatherman.com

skills are rusty and I have no experience teaching my kid how to climb. That is where Mazama Families comes into play.

I assume the next time I attempt to summit St. Helens, my daughter will be by my side.

My daughter only recently started to prefer to spend time with her friends over time with me. She knows I’ll always be around. She also started saying, “Mom, you are embarrassing me!” quite often. So, I really cherish the time she and I have together during the Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) course. We spend two hours a month in class together and have had two awesome field sessions at Horsethief Butte. (I have lived in Portland for 13 years and never even knew about that beautiful spot.) We practice our knots together. We safety check each other’s gear before climbing and belaying one another. We encourage each other to be brave before a rappel.

She is also developing friendships with other kids who love to climb, and whose parents love to climb.

I have been so impressed with the assistants who run and teach the class. These are Mazama members and FM101 alumni who volunteer their time to teach rock and mountaineering skills to a group of parents and their children.

Often times, children learn and respond better to another adult than their own parents. If my daughter and I are having trouble communicating, one of these wonderful people step right in to work with her. In turn, that might free me up to help someone else’s son or daughter, or even sneak in a little climbing of my own. I am looking forward to the next part of the class, which will focus more on mountain climbing and safety. Maybe I’ll even brave snow camping?

So here is my new mantra: “I used to go on great adventures, and now I do so with my kid!”

Thank you, Mazama Families and Families Mountaineering 101.

NOVEMBER 2017 19

STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamasblog.org ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/ mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin.

Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

DAY ENDS. ADVENTURE BEGINS.

20 MAZAMAS

New Members:........................................................................ 36 Mark Abel—Mt. Adams Kirsten Auble—Kilimanjaro Grant Barba—Old Snowy Samuel Barnes—Middle Sister Michael Black—Middle Sister Catherine Cakir—Mt. Hood Greg Dausman—Mt. Shasta William Earley—South Sister Joan Eismann—Mt. St. Helens Kelsey Hollenbaugh—Mt. St. Helens Deborah James—Mt. St. Helens Magnus Johnson—Mt. Rainier Kevin Kohberger—Mt. Thielsen Yev Krasnitskiy—Mt. Rainier Ruth Lizotte—South Sister Aimee Mattson—Mt. St. Helens Cherry Mayangitan—Middle Sister Shaun McKinney—Mt. Hood

Kevin Moran—Mt. Hood Andrea Nicholas—Mt. St. Helens Aldis Raisters—Mt. Adams Linnea Rall—South Sister Perry Rall—South Sister Bill Resley—Mt. St. Helens Jared Rhodes—Mt. Hood David Rychly—Mt. Hood Sara Shah—Mt. St. Helens Paula Shanders—Mt. St. Helens Tempe Sikora—Mt. Adams Jeff Smith—Mt. St. Helens Deborah Smith—Mt. St. Helens Tina Summers—Mt. St. Helens Stefan Talke—Mt. St. Helens Jane Van Dyke—Mt. St. Helens Lane Williamson—Middle Sister Douglas Yuen—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements:........................................................................ 1 Deceased:................................................................................ 0 Total Membership:

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Total membership as of Sept. 30, 2017—3,664 Total membership as of Sept. 30, 2016—3,650

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS Every Wednesday mid-Oct.—mid-April at 7 p.m., at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Thank you Mazamas, friends, and neighbors for supporting our successful Wednesday night series for more than 60 years! Programs are free and open to the public; a voluntary contribution at the door is at your discretion. We encourage you to carpool, take public transportation, bike or walk to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

NOV. 1—THE WONDERS OF OREGON’S HIGH DESERT

NOV. 8—CYCLING CUBA

Eastern Oregon is home to dark night skies, hot springs, and spectacular geology. Take a photo tour of the wonders of Oregon’s high desert, including the rugged Owyhee Canyonlands, wildlife-filled Hart Mountain, stunning John Day River Basin and more. Corinne Handelman, outreach coordinator for the Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA), and photographer Sage Brown will provide tips to plan your journey to these highlights and lesser-explored destinations. You’ll also have a chance to purchase ONDA’s 2018 Wild Desert Calendar, filled with photos to inspire your next desert adventure!

Chris Dearth, 25 year Mazama member, will present a slide show of his bicycle travels across Cuba during the winter of 2016/17.

During his two months in Cuba, Chris cycled approximately 2,000 kilometers across the island. He started in Habana and headed to Valle de Vinales and to the Peninsula de Guanahabibes in the west, on to the Bahia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) on the south-central coast, and finally to Santiago, Guantanamo, and Punta de Maisi at the far eastern tip of the island. Chris stayed in private home “casas particulares” along the way and was treated to friendly hospitality by Cubans throughout the trip.

NOV. 15—OBJECTIVE UNKNOWN: A CLIMBING ADVENTURE IN PAKISTAN (PORTLAND ALPINE FEST)

NOV. 29—THERE AND BACK AGAIN: WHAT IT TOOK TO CLIMB DENALI VIA THE WEST BUTTRESS

Have you ever set off for a climb without knowing exactly what you were going to climb? Or even where you were going? Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman, 2016 Mazama Bob Wilson Grant recipients, did just that a few months ago. They will share their recent experience in Pakistan with us tonight, in addition to discussing some of their previous exploits in the mountains as a team.

NOV. 22—NO PROGRAM

In this presentation Jill Kellogg will share the adventure of 3 intrepid climbers. Discover what it took for a private party to reach the summit of Denali and take home lessons for your own attempt.

Continued on page 23 NOVEMBER 2017 21

We love these places. *

*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development.

We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps 22 MAZAMAS

www.GreenTrailsMaps.com

206.546.MAPS (6277)

Evening Programs, continued from previous page

DEC. 6—HIKING IN SOUTHWEST TEXAS

DEC. 13—BIKE TOUR MOUNTAINEERING

Bob Breivogel presents a spring Outing to southwest Texas; a place Mazamas seldom visit. Big Bend National Park is a hiker’s paradise containing the largest expanse of roadless public lands in Texas. More than 150 miles of trails offer opportunities for day hikes or backpacking trips. Elevations range from 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains. Elevation changes produce an exceptional variety of plants, animals, and scenic vistas. The trip also briefly visited Guadalupe National Park and a hike through the Carlsbad Caverns.

Terry Campbell and Kyle Heddy have been conducting bike tour mountaineering (BTM) and bikepacking trips since 2010.

Bikepacking is a cross between road touring and mountain biking. The bike’s geometry and ability to carry gear is similar to a road touring bike but the they are built with components similar to a mountain bike. These hybrid bikes have been gaining popularity among cycling enthusiasts because they allow us to travel through many landscapes at a pace that’s not too fast. Come learn a little about how people prepare for these adventures, view some breathtaking photography, and hear a few stories that make it all worthwhile.

DEC. 20—THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY OF EASTERN NEPAL

JAN.10—SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATES

Eastern Nepal—the remoteness of this terrain, its rugged trails, scattered human habitation, and monsoonal downpours make for a perfectly challenging beginning to the Great Himalaya Trail. David Burdick and his guide and Sherpa explore paths that are used mostly by locals, as very few trekkers make their way to the wild east of Nepal, covering 330 miles over 29 days. Their journey crosses the Lamba Samba, and then down into the wild Barun Valley. Their trek from Kanchenjunga over to Everest is a combination of cross-country travel and mountaineering. The river valleys and immense mountain vistas unfold, including the massifs of Makalu, Everest, and Lhotse. Lodging offered by indigenous groups of Rai, Limbu, Sherpa and Lhomi people.

Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. The show features shots and stories of adventures from Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available, with all profits going to Mazamas.

Continued on next page DEC. 20 & DEC 27—HOLIDAY, NO PROGRAM NOVEMBER 2017 23

Evening Programs, continued from previous page

JAN. 17—VISITING THE LESSER KNOWN PARKS, CALIFORNIA TO MISSOURI In the spring of 2017, Mazama members Susan Brickey and Rick Pope spent two months in a camper van exploring the less visited parks along the southern tier of the country. Starting at Pinnacles National Park, the duo continued across California and Arizona sampling Carrizo Plain, Organ Pipe, Chiricahua, and Cave Creek. They hiked to the high point of Texas at Guadalupe National Park, got their kicks on Route 66, and finally biked across the state of Missouri on the longest rail trail in the country.

Join us for a look at some of the diverse parks off the beaten path.

JAN. 24—GLACIERS IN THE WEST Guidebook author and Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder has spent the past five years writing about the best places to go hiking throughout the year. His new book PDX Hiking 365 is the fruit of that labor, the first guidebook ever in the Portland area to organize hikes by month and season. PDX Hiking 365 offers quiet urban trails, rainforest rivers and open desert skies in the winter, hikes through fields of wildflowers in the spring, treks high on glaciated peaks in the summer and explorations through the finest fall color hikes in the fall. From January to December, you’re sure to find something perfect for each month of the year. Matt will describe some of this favorite hikes from PDX Hiking 365 from old favorites to obscure classics. Books will be available for purchase after the presentation.

FEB. 7—SWITZERLAND’S “BERNER OBERLAND” & HIKING THE HAUTE ROUTE Join Ann Ames and Tom Davidson to catch a glimpse of the Bernese Alps and to see the vibrant beauty of France and Switzerland from the Haute Route path. The Bernese Alps in Central Switzerland offer rugged glaciers and high alpine lakes, fervent meadows full of cowbell toting bovines, and a never ending landscape of trails for hikers of all abilities. The program takes you through the cozy and high village of Gimmelwald, hiking the Lauterbrunnen Valley trails, before tackling the eleven day Haute Route trek out of Chamonix, France. The travel will take you through three prominent Swiss peaks, the Eiger, Jungfrau. and Mönch. The Haute Route is a lesser known Alps’ trek (125 miles) connecting Chamonix in the West to Zermatt in the East. You’ll learn about the trip planning and packing and the duo’s variations to the route (they did not use a guide service or company).

View online at: tinyurl.com/maz-eveningprograms 24 MAZAMAS

MARCH 7—HIKING TASMANIA

MARCH 14—ADVENTURE RUNNING

Tasmania is beautiful, unique, and vastly varied land with a wide range of experiences ready to be had. Erin “Wired” Saver will present her journey in Tasmania hiking the most popular trails and routes, through anecdotes, photos, and videos. Be ready to take note of all the amazing places to visit in Tasmania. This is a highly recommended destination for anyone that loves hiking. A detailed daily journal of her trip can be found at www.walkingwithwired.com

Along the spine of the Left Coast is a landscape of unspeakable vastness and soul-stirring beauty; a true glimpse into the world as it once was. The Cascade and Sierra Nevada Ranges have been inspiring adventurers, wanderers, and wonderers for many years.

There is no greater setting for discovering one’s self than running among these resplendent and magical spaces. Local trail runner and ultra marathoner Sean Harrasser has spent almost thirty years exploring these mountain wildscapes, and exploring the edges of his own capabilities. These are not stories of setting speed records or of competitive racing, they are an ordinary person’s quest for something extraordinary; a sparkling obsession with discovering the beauty and mystery of the wilderness around us and the wilderness within us.

MARCH 21—HIKING THE KUMANO KODO IN JAPAN John Osaki of Mountain Hiking Holidays shares his experience hiking the Kumano Kodo, an ancient pilgrimage route in Japan. Begin at Koyasan, a sacred mountain, and hike to the sea on trails through the Kii Mountains. Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims from the 11th century, and enjoy forests, views, rivers, and shrines. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and officially “twinned” with the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage in Spain, you can earn “Dual Pilgrim” status by completing both pilgrimages.

MARCH 28: TBD

APRIL 4—HILLWALKING IN IRELAND Trek along with Alice Brocoum, Carol Beauclerk and Rex Breunsbach on Ireland’s Wicklow Way, south of Dublin and the Western Way, north of Galway: two of the many long distance self-guided walking trails in Ireland. These trails travel through a patchwork of landscapes and historic sites. Experience the vibrant culture and history of Ireland close-up while walking along national trails and country lanes. We travel through mountains, upland lakes, peat bogs, steep-sided glacial valleys, fast flowing streams, forests, and farmlands. Each night is a unique stop along the way, from farm to B&B to manor house. Wednesday April 4

APRIL 11—NEW HIKES IN OREGON Hiking guru William L. Sullivan takes us on a visual tour of the new and changed hiking trails he has discovered for the 2018 versions of his Oregon hiking guides. As always, expect anecdotes about history, geology, plants, and wildlife along the way.

NOVEMBER 2017 25

#OptOutside

The Mazamas Joins REI Co-op in #OptOutside 2017

by Kelsey Shaw, Mazama Member Services Administrator

F

or the last two years, the REI Co-op has made a habit of emphasizing people and passion over profit on Black Friday, a day in the US traditionally devoted to shopping.

This year will be no different.

On November 24, when the Co-op closes its in-store and online operations, all of its approximately 12,000 employees will be paid to #OptOutside with friends and family, both new and old. Like the Mazamas, REI believes quality of life is greatly improved with access to the outdoors and, as such, is passionate about conservation and stewardship, locally and nationally.

This year the Mazamas will join the hundreds of organizations that also choose to opt outside on Black Friday.

Here at the Mazamas, we firmly believe everyone ought to be able to enjoy the outdoors in general, and the mountains in particular. Our community is built on a passion for the peaks and sustained through the camaraderie and friendships fostered through this passion. As any outdoor enthusiast knows, being out in nature has a way of bringing us together, regardless of personal ethos. So this year, instead of standing in the cold and rain for new things, walk, hike, or climb your way through the damp with those you love most, or perhaps those you are just beginning to know. Let us try to forget that one relative’s political rant, Mazamas Getting Outside! or perhaps work off all of those delicious calories, through the healing and relaxing power of nature.

How will you #OptOutside this year?

Need inspiration? Or are you looking for new hiking buddies?

Share your Opt Outside adventures by also Join Mazamas hike leader, Bill Stein, as he leads a trek through the city from Opal Creek to Cedar Flats. Thanksgiving leftovers strongly tagging #mazamaspdx. We can’t wait to encouraged.

experience your adventures with you!

26 MAZAMAS

OUTINGS Foreign and Domestic Adventure Travel More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.

ICE CLIMBING IN HYALITE CANYON, MONTANA DEC. 14–17, 2017 Do you want to become better acquainted with our “local” ice climbing crags? Do you want to get a jump on the ice climbing season to achieve your grander ambitions? This outing will introduce you to Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, Montana. Spend four days climbing by day and recovering in the hot springs at night!

You must be independent setting top-rope anchors, leading WI2-5, or have a partner in the outing that does. You may hire a reputable guide if desired. Orientation to beginner and intermediate level climbing through outing leaders Rebecca Madore and Ania Wiktorowicz.

Group size limited to 8 participants. Total cost is $558 for 8 or $817 for 6 participants and includes lodging, transportation, and outing fees. Food and transportation to and from Bozeman not included. For more information contact either leader: madore. rebecca@gmail.com or aniaclimbs@gmail.com. Apply online, payment due once your application is accepted. Deadline for sign-up Nov. 13.

TUCSON ARIZONA HIKING FEB. 17–24, 2018

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK MARCH 24–31, 2018

Take advantage of Tucson's temperate winter weather and wide variety of hiking options on this hiking outing. Bill Bens, Mazama and local resident, will be providing guidance on selected hikes throughout the well established trail systems in the area. There will be plenty of opportunities to learn about the geology, flora, and fauna of the area. Trip agenda includes five hiking days and one day for local attractions like Kartchner Caverns, Kitt Observatory and the Desert Museum. Two daily B-level hikes or more advanced hiking options depending on group preference.

Outing costs of $810 to $875 for a group of 12 to 16. Costs include lodging and outing fees including one group meal. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in Nov. Sign up by Nov. 22. Deposit of $150 due upon acceptance. Full payment due by Dec.1. Questions contact outing leader, Tony Spiering, at aespiering@gmail.com; or assistant, Rex Breunsbach, at rbruensbach@gmail.com.

Join us on the Big Island of Hawaii where we'll spend a week exploring Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, one of the world's most fascinating biological and geological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. We'll be staying in two cabins right in the park, each with three bedrooms, two baths, a kitchen, and all the comforts of home. Our itinerary will include day hikes (B and C level, the longest will be 10 miles), depending on permits, an overnight backpack either down to the coast (Halape) or up to Red Hill Cabin on Mauna Loa, and one day to explore Hilo and the Hamakua coast.

Outing cost depending on participation of a minimum of 8 to a maximum of 10 (plus 2 leaders). Costs for members from $684 for 10 to $828 for 8 and for nonmembers from $754 for 10 to $898 for 8. Cost includes both lodging and fees. Each participant is responsible for his/her meals, rental car, and air travel. A deposit of $150 is required by Dec. 15. Deadline for sign-up, Dec. 15. Contact outing leader, Jay Feldman, at JayF1111@ gmail.com or assistant leader, Rex Breunsbach at rbreunsbach@gmail.com for more information or to apply.

NOVEMBER 2017 27

A Significant Impact

by Sarah Bradham

F

it. Fast. Driven. Lively. Unstoppable. Kind.

Friendly. Caring. Joyful. As I spoke with Ken Hague’s friends and loved ones, those were just a few of the words that were used to describe Ken. Ken has been gone for almost 10 years, but the memories of him don’t seem to have faded for those who knew him.

Earlier this year, we learned that Ken had gifted a portion of the sale of his house to the Mazamas. With the real estate market being what it is in Portland this ended up being quite a significant gift—a quarter of a million dollars. We set out to learn a bit more about Ken by reaching out to some of his old friends, reviewing the obituary we printed in 2008 (printed in its entirety at right), by reading an autobiography that Ken wrote in 1995 (a slim volume that is in the Mazama Library), and by reading his oral history that was completed in 2007 by his long-time friend and fellow Mazama member, Dennis Olmstead. We wanted to learn why the Mazamas were such an important part of Ken’s life.

It was a fun journey, learning more about this man who was a Mazama member for 42 years. He was definitely a force to be reckoned with, and absolutely loved the Mazamas. He just couldn’t get enough of showing new climbers the ropes, and getting people atop their first summit was always a major focus and concern for Ken. His favorite climb was Mt. Hood, likely because he spent the most time on it, and he often led

“... my time in the Mazamas was the most important experience I had in my life. It’s worth more than the Army, the farm, or schooling that I have had. It was a people experience. I was at it a long time, the last 40 years or so.”

–Ken Hague, from his 1995 auto-biography A group of Mazama climbers on Mt. Hood in the late 1960s. Photo: Forest Service employee.

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beginners on Mt. Hood as their first climb. One issue that was a driving force for Ken throughout his time at the Mazamas was ensuring there were opportunities for people to participate in Aand B-level climbs with the Mazamas. People having access to the mountains was critically important to him.

In addition to having a soft spot for beginners, Ken really loved kids, and enjoyed helping them achieve their potential through outdoor trips and leadership experiences. He wanted to help show them what they were made of by taking them into the mountains and letting them learn in the field. He was a volunteer for Explorer Post for years, along with his longtime friend Keith Mischke.

According to those close to Ken, he felt that getting kids outside and into the mountains was one of the most important things the Mazamas could do.

Thanks to Ken and his generation donation, the Mazamas have additional resources to continue to focus on two areas that mattered dearly to him—getting people on climbs and getting kids into the mountains. Two of the five initiatives in the 2018–2020 strategic plan that will be rolled out formally to the membership in January revolve around those issues.

FROM OUR STRATEGIC PLAN: Activities & Events: Expand the capacity of the Mazamas activity programs and events to create more shared experiences and opportunities in the outdoors, and to inspire and unite our community.

Those beginner experiences, the shared outdoor experience, the people ... that was what was important to Ken, and that is what we are working to expand over the next three years.

Youth & Community Outreach: Lead our state and region in transforming our youth and community members into engaged outdoor citizens, advocates, and educators through values based programming.

In addition to his love of getting kids outdoors, Ken was also concerned with the lack of diversity in the Mazamas.

Over the next three years we will increase our youth programming, while also researching and developing pilot programs to increase the accessibility of the Mazamas to diverse communities.

We look forward to reporting back in 2021 that the Mazamas have dramatically increased the amount of shared experiences in the mountains, that we have engaged a significant number of youth in outdoor programs, and that we are regularly reaching a diverse audience.

Thank you Ken for being such an important part of the Mazamas for 42 years, and thank you for your forethought in including the Mazamas in your estate.

If you are interested in including the Mazamas in your estate planning, please contact Lee Davis, Mazamas Executive Director, at lee@mazamas.org or 503-227-2345.

KENNETH HAGUE, 1922–2008 (REPRINT FROM DEC. 2008 MAZAMA BULLETIN) “Kenny” Hague passed away on Veteran’s Day in 2008, an appropriate departure for a man who flew more than 30 combat missions in a B-17 bomber during WWII. Kenny is remembered for his dedication and loyalty to the Mazamas and his friends, his positive attitude and for the loving and patient care he gave his wife Barbara, as she descended into the void of Alzheimer’s disease.

Kenny set high standards for himself, both figuratively and literally. He and Barbara completed Basic School in 1966, and within four years, he was leading climbs and had received the 16 Major Northwest Peaks Award. He served or chaired many committees: Trust, Annual Banquet, Finance, Publications, and two stints on Climbing. In the 10 years he worked with a Mazama-sponsored Explorers Post, he introduced hundreds of young people to the rigors and joys of mountaineering.

Keith Mischke, fellow post-leader and past Mazama president recalls, “Working with the young post members, he never got frustrated and was always looking for the teaching moment.”

The Mazamas honored Kenny’s service with the esteemed Parker Cup Award in 1971, the same year he was elected to Executive Council. He served as treasurer, and then in 1973, as Mazama President.

Following retirement, Kenny volunteered with literacy programs, which aided both adults and children with reading and math, and assisted the IRS in their Tax Assistance and Counseling for Elderly program. He continued to be giving of his time and resources to the Mazamas.

Shortly before turning 70, Kenny summited the Matterhorn in Switzerland—in 3 ½ hours—and was so elated afterwards, that in the words of Ray Sheldon, “He could hardly keep his feet on the ground.” He began life as a poor kid on a farm in South Dakota, during harsh economic times and went on to live with dignity and perseverance.

He would tell his friends, “Don’t look back at life; always keep looking forward.” He was a role model for some, a friend to many and a helper to all. As Eleanor Roosevelt to aptly stated: “Many people will walk in and out of your life, but only friends leave footprints on your heart.” Kenny left so many.

NOVEMBER 2017 29

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check the website at tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

Right: Matt Reeder’s AYM bikepacking trip to Green Ridge Lookout.

Due to current fire conditions, AYM is not currently planning future events. Check our website and Meetup page for the most up to date events, we will post hikes pending current conditions.

STEP CREEK AND REEHERS CAMP NOV. 7 Just 45 minutes from Beaverton, the area in and around Reehers Camp is virtually unknown to most Portland-area hikers. Join AYM for an exploration of this lovely corner of the Coast Range. We’ll hike a figure-8 loop, starting at Reehers Camp. Expect some lingering fall color, rushing streams and (probably) a rainy day. Hike: 9.8 miles, 1,200 feet elevation gain. Drive: 72 miles. Hike is limited to 12 participants. Hikers without adequate rain gear will be turned away. This is the Coast Range in November, prepare for rain. Meet at Sunset Transit Center in Beaverton at 8:30 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder.

Photo credit: Juliette Authier

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Join Joinususfor forananinformational information session at the Mazama session at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Mountaineering Centeraton6:00 December 1st, starting Friday, Dec. 1 at 6 p.m.

PM

A WEEKEND IN A LOOKOUT TOWER

by Matt Reeder Reserving a lookout tower is almost impossible. You can tell yourself this time will be the time it happens; you get up and log on to the reservation site early, only to find that, somehow, it’s already been reserved. Over the years I’ve tried repeatedly, only to succeed on just a few occasions. So imagine my surprise when Toby Creelan managed to snag the Green Ridge Lookout, perhaps the most coveted lookout tower in Oregon, for the first weekend of October.

Toby decided to lead a bikepacking trip, departing on Saturday morning. He had also reserved Friday night, which I gladly took. So we developed a plan where he would lead a group to the lookout, where I would be waiting, and together we’d spend Saturday night in the lookout. I drove up on Friday afternoon, arriving at the lookout in the evening, in time to watch a glorious sunset over the Cascades. Clouds rolled in and over the Three Sisters and Mount Jefferson, and overnight it became so windy the tower shook with the force of the oncoming storm. The rains started early Saturday morning. With my visions of going for a hike in the area scuttled, I sat in the lookout, reading a novel and waiting for the rains to stop. In time a rainbow appeared over the lookout, stretching over the canyon of the Metolius River. Toby and company arrived in the afternoon after a relaxing bike ride, and we made coffee and proceeded to get comfortable. With rain still pelting the windows of the lookout, we made dinner and then played cards until it came time for bed.

In the morning the rains cleared, and we packed up the lookout and our things. As we packed, the mountains finally came out at last for the bikepackers, delaying our inevitable departure. As we snapped photo after photo of freshly snow-covered peaks from the Three Sisters to Mount Hood, it was tough to leave. But soon the bikepackers departed, leaving me to lock up the Green Ridge Lookout and set off on my own. What a wonderful weekend! It’s worth all of the trouble it takes to reserve a fire lookout – after all, good things come to those who wait.

Toby has been leading many AYM events to fire lookout towers.

Check the AYM page frequently if you are interested in joining us on one of these unique experiences!

Stories Start Here B U I L D I N G CO M M U N I T Y T H R O U G H S T I L L & M OT I O N P H OTO G R A P H Y

605 NW 23RD AVENUE, PORTLAND

NOVEMBER 2017 31

VISIT US | 1112 NW 19th Avenue, Portland

WHERE EVERYTHING IS CLEAR. ICEBREAKER.COM OR

1109 W BURNSIDE ST. PORTLAND, OR

32 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon on Thursdays–Noon on Mondays.

LODGE USAGE Some members have asked about lodge usage and or when is a slow time of year to visit or use the lodge (see graph). We are open 252 nights a year. During the typical school year we are open Thursday noon until Monday at noon. Most Saturdays we are booked almost year round with classes and private events. But even during the busy winter months the lodge is open most Saturdays to day use. Overnight rentals don’t have exclusive use until 3 p.m.

Vacant Bunks 4% 2% This year the lodge is open for member use starting on Thanksgiving week through Child member January 2 with no exclusive use events except the annual Snowball group on Saturday, December 9. The two weeks around the Christmas Holiday the lodge is open every day 9% Affiliate Child except Christmas Eve to accommodate members. During this prime time period we still 3% have 1800 bunks available. Over the past fiscal year the lodge hovers 2% around 50 percent RTM occupancy. It’s not uncommon for the lodge to sell out on a Friday or Saturday and then only have six guests or fewer on a Sunday or Thursday night.

Child, nonmember Member usage including classes account for about 30 percent of lodge usage.

We are 9% 54% only tracking overnight stays. During the course of a weekend we frequently have around School Groups 100 day visitors who are mostly members and guests.

4% 4%

9% Vacant Bunks

2% 2% 9%

3% 2%

9%

3% 9%

54%

9% 9%

54%

9% 4% 1% .5% .5%

3%

1% .5%

.5%

4% 3%

Child member Vacant Bunks

Member classes

Affiliate Child Child4member %

Nonprofits, scouts, private schools

3% 1% RTM Affiliate Child .5%

2% .5%

Nonmember

Weddings

Child, nonmember RTM

Mountain Science School

School Groups Child, nonmember

Affiliate Members

Nonmember School Groups

Member Stays

Member classes Nonmember Nonprofits, scouts, Member classes private schools Nonprofits, scouts, Weddings private schools Mountain Science School Weddings Affiliate Members Mountain Science School Member Stays Affiliate Members

LODGE WORK PARTY

THANKSGIVING AT THE LODGE

Join us on the mountain for another great Thanksgiving feast on Thursday, Nov. 24. Guests may bring their own adult beverage to enjoyed with dinner at our otherwise “dry” lodge. Call to reserve your spot at 503-272-9214. (Adults, $22; Kids (ages 2–12), $13.25, Kids under 2, free!)

THANKSGIVING DAY SCHEDULE

▶▶ Noon: Lodge opens ▶▶ 1 p.m.: Trail Trips committee leads a hike or snowshoe from the lodge (depending on weather) ▶▶ 4 p.m.: Appetizers served ▶▶ 5 p.m.: Dinner served THANKSGIVING LODGE MENU Appetizers Smoke Salmon Spread Pickle and Olive Tray Hot Apple Cider

Dinner Focaccia Bread Mash Potatoes Roasted Squash with Sweet Onions Cornbread Stuffing Cranberry Sauce Oscar’s Brussel Sprouts Turkey and Gravy Dessert Apple Pie Pumpkin Pie Vanilla Whip Cream Adults $23. Kids $14 (12 and under). 2 and under are free.

Member Stays

The lodge work party is scheduled for Saturday, November 18 from 9 a.m.–3 p.m. We will be serving a complimentary lunch and giving out free lodge vouchers to all of our volunteers that day. For questions concerning the work party you can reach out to our lodge chairman Bob Stayton at 503-799-0785.

NOVEMBER 2017 33

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK B2 Nov 01 (Wed) Tom-Dick Mountain Jim Selby 828-508-5094.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Always an enjoyable hike, especially if we get a glimpse of Mt. Hood from the upper part of the trail. Nice spots to stop to enjoy the remarkable terrain south of Mt. Hood. 7.2 mi., 1,715 ft., Drive 94, MMC 8 a.m. (AR,MH,WO)MU HK A1.5 Nov 03 (Fri) Tillamook Forestry Center Flora Huber 503658-5710. Delightful forest hike, decent trail even in the rain, brief stop in the Center as well. 5 mi., 350 ft., Drive 110, Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Nov 03 (Fri) Soda Lakes from Mineral Springs Rex Breunsbach undefined. Exploratory.

Strenuous hike through a significant old growth forest to a beautiful lake in the Trapper Creek Wilderness 7.8 mi., 2880 ft., Drive 140, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Nov 04 (Sat) Dog River Trail Kelly Marlin mazamamama@ frontier.com or 503-665-6778.

Located south of Hood River, this pleasant out-and-back hike moves through an ever changing forest to great (weather permitting) views of Mt. Hood’s east side. Vehicles will need to display a NW Forest Pass. No dogs. 6.5 mi., 1,430 ft., Drive 140, TH, Lewis & Clark, near toilets 9 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov 04 (Sat) Observation Peak ( from Gov’t Mineral Springs) Tom Dodson dodsontw@ msn.com. This is a great area.

We will go up Trapper Creek with numerous creek crossings so bring extra socks just in case. Be prepared for solitude and one stream crossing that in some years is challenging.

Poles are essential and be prepared for rain and chilly conditions.

13.3 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 116, TH, Gateway 6 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 05 (Sun) Salmon River Trail (Lower) Sherry Bourdin 503-314-2911. From the main Old Salmon River Trailhead, the trail quickly descends into deep forest, and soon traverses above a quiet stretch of the Salmon River and crosses a string of log bridges over

34 MAZAMAS

mostly seasonal streams. Beyond the Green Canyon campground, the trail curves up to the main trailhead for the popular Salmon River Trail at the 2.5 mile mark, the turnaround point for the hike. 5.2 mi., 100 ft., Drive 80, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK B2 Nov 05 (Sun) Kings Mountain Junior Loop Bruce Giordano brucegiord32@gmail. com. Some additional distance, elevation and views over hiking standard Kings Mountain trail. We will take Kings Junior trail followed

by Kings Mountain trail going up and then just take Kings trail going down. Hiking poles and gaiters recommended as there are some steep sections and Kings Junior trail is rather overgrown. 5.6 mi., 2,700 ft., Drive 70, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) MU HK A1.5 Nov 06 (Mon) Salmon River Trail (Upper) Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Wilderness—Limit 12. Great woodsy hike along the river with fall colors and the smell of autumn. Should be a great view on top too. Meet at Sandy, OR, Safeway 7.2 mi., 950 ft., Drive 82, TH, see below 8:30 a.m. (MH,WO)MU SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 07 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles Mazamas Mountaineering Center 503-2272345. Leave from REI-Pearl (NW 14th & Johnson) starting at 6 p.m.

Bring a flashlight/headlamp.

HK B2 Nov 08 (Wed) Saddle Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Coast range hike with Fantastic 360 views from the coast, to Mt. Rainier and Hood. This view comes at the cost of a very exposed summit.

7.2 mi., 1,900 ft., Drive 96, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (AR) HK A1.5 Nov 10 (Fri) Mt. Talbert Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Simple but fun hike, enjoy the fall colors and a nice view 3 mi., 150 ft., Drive 3, Clackamas P&R Garage 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Nov 10 (Fri) Valley of the Giants Bill Stein billstein. rpcv@gmail.com. A 5-hour round

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS (NO RAMBLE ON NOV. 23) Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events. trip drive, including lots of travel on gravel roads, for a short walk among the largest trees in Oregon.

Didn’t make it south this year for the redwoods or sequoias? Oregon too has really big trees, up a series of logging roads west of Salem. This is a lollipop loop hike in an impressive grove of ancient Douglas Fir and Western Hemlock. Check your calendar; many folks will have this Friday off. RSVP required by Thu., Nov. 9. 1.4 mi., 535 ft., Drive 165, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Nov 11 (Sat) Siouxon Creek (to Chinook Creek) Brett Nair 503-847-9550. This popular

and nearly level Creekside cruise boasts a solid half dozen of the best cataracts in the southern Washington Cascades, made all the more impressive by a wildernessworthy forest setting. The Siouxon Creek Trail spans the spectrum of waterfall flavors: punchbowl plunge pools; narrow, canyon-squeezed cataracts; and dramatic horsetail and bridal veil displays. The forested backdrop isn’t too shabby, either, some of the best intact, and unprotected lowland forest in the southern Washington Cascades.

7.8 mi., 700 ft., Drive 70, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF)

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

HK B2 Nov 11 (Sat) Barlow Pass to Twin Lakes Loop David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. From Barlow Pass we will go south on the Pacific Crest Trail until we reach the junction with trail 482.

Turn left and continue to Palmier Point. If clear weather we will have views of Mt. Hood, Barlow Butte, and the Barlow Creek Valley. Then backtrack to the Palmate junction and head south to Twin Lakes.

Have lunch at the upper lake. After lunch go the lower lake and back up to the PCT and head north to our vehicles. Be prepared for winter conditions. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. (Note: This could become a snowshoe, weather pending.) 10 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 105, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(MH) HK C2.5 Nov 11 (Sat) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35 Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. My favorite views of Mt. Hood are from several vantage points on this hike. Up from Highway 35 to the saddle and then the change to the drier East side ecosystem. Perhaps we will catch the first snow of the season. 10.4 mi., 2,975 ft., Drive 136, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH,WO) HK A1.5 Nov 12 (Sun) Middle Salmon River Susan Koch 971678-3446. Wilderness—Limit 12.

We will hike the Middle Salmon River trail through lovely forest along the Salmon river at a leisurely pace. Hike is out and back. Note slightly later meet time 4.5 mi., 800 ft., Drive 44, TH, Gateway 9 a.m.

(MH)MU HK A2.5 Nov 12 (Sun) Forest Park Wildwood-Leif Erikson loop Reuel Kurzet 503-246-1058 rkurzet@comcast.net. Brisk morning hike with mixed Forest Park features: winding, woodsy Wildwood Trail and wide, open Leif Erikson Drive. Expect possible muddy areas. Dress for winter cold and/or rain. Park along Thurman or take Tri-Met Bus 15/Belmont/ NW 23rd to Thurman and Gordon Street, then walk 0.3 miles to the end of Thurman. 8.5 mi., 670 ft., Drive 0, Gate at end of NW Thurman St. (at 4900 block) 9 a.m. MU HK A1 Nov 13 (Mon) Steigerwald NWR Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

Lots of wildlife and views of the Columbia. 2 mi., 50 ft., Drive 30, MMC 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 13 (Mon) Hardy Ridge David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com.

Join us for this hike to a ridge with great views of Mt Hamilton and Table mountain. We will meet at

the southwest parking lot at the transit center. 8 mi., 2100 ft., Drive 52, State Park, Fishers Landing transit center 8 a.m. (AR,GH)MU HK B2 Nov 15 (Wed) Dome Rock from Detroit Lake Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Above Detroit Lake, Dome Rock offers spectacular views of Mt. Jefferson. 9 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 120, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 17 (Fri) Providence Park to Willamette Stone SP Loop Hike William O’Brien undefined. This is an urban hike that transitions from the busy commercial NW Portland neighborhoods to the Wildwood Trail then to the Audubon Center and then up the quiet Portland West Hills to Skyline Blvd. and lastly to a small, remote Oregon State Park dedicated to early Oregon surveying history. 7 mi., 900 ft., Drive 0, Providence Park westbound Max stop 9 a.m. MU HK A2 Nov 18 (Sat) Deschutes River Trail Deborah Gant email.deborah2@gmail.com. This is a pretty trail along the Deschutes River with an expansive high desert landscape on the east side of Mt. Hood. There is a chance the weather may be sunny and/or dry for this late fall hike. 8 mi., 800 ft., Drive 184, Gateway 8 a.m. (WO)MU HK B2 Nov 18 (Sat) Cascade Head + Hart’s Cove Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. This hike involves a car shuttle, and our max party size is 9. Much of this hike’s dramatic coastal views is only accessible in this half of the year! We will hike up to Cascade Head from sea level. After lunch, we’ll descend to Hart’s Cove. The Hart’s Cove portion of the hike is exploratory for your leader.

RSVP required by Fri., Nov. 17.

The Barbur P&R lot is at 9712 SW Barbur Blvd. 9.6 mi., 2,310 ft., Drive 190, Barbur Blvd P&R 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 24 (Fri) Opal Creek to Cedar Flats Bill Stein billstein. rpcv@gmail.com. Opt-Outside and bring your Thanksgiving leftovers!

Among Oregon’s lower elevation hiking destinations, Opal Creek is a real gem. Prepare for cold, damp conditions, and bring your camera!

RSVP required by Wed Nov. 22. 10.5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 188, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Nov 25 (Sat) Hoyt Arboretum Loop Reuel Kurzet 503-246-1058 rkurzet@comcast. net. Morning leg-stretcher through Hoyt Arboretum with optional tree ID pauses. Paid parking at visitor center 4000 SW Fairview Blvd, or free parking along road, or Tri-Met

MAX to the Oregon Zoo station and walk 0.6 mile uphill (Knight’s Rd or paths) to Hoyt Visitor Center. Dress for cool/cold fall weather, possible rain, and muddy sections of trail.

4.5 mi., est. 700 ft., Drive 0, Hoyt Arboretum visitor Ctr 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Nov 25 (Sat) Cape Horn Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940.

Hike along the north side of the Columbia Gorge through forest and along the cliffs. May still be a little fall color left and we should get views of the burned hillsides on the Oregon side. Back to Gateway by 3 p.m. Dress for wind and rain. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, Gateway 9 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov 25 (Sat) Table Mountain (West Ridge) Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com.

Be prepared for snow and lots of fun up top, on the broad summit which we will explore thoroughly before descending the West Ridge if conditions allow. 9 mi., 3,450 ft., Drive 84, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(AR,GH) HK A1.5 Nov 26 (Sun) Lucia and Moulton Falls Jim Selby 828-5085094. Let’s work off a little of our Thanksgiving weight by seeing salmon try to get up Lucia Falls and then see more waterfalls, eagles, and other wildlife to and from Moulton Falls. Late morning hike, will be back at Gateway by 5 p.m.

6 mi., 200 ft., Drive 60, Gateway 11 a.m. (WF)MU HK B2 Nov 26 (Sun) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista) Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. A nice hike that feels like a small mountain.

Very likely inclement conditions this time of year. Leader will monitor weather forecast up until day of hike. Prepare for nasty, hope for pleasant. Participants will need a Washington Discover Pass. 7.5 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 70, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR) HK B2 Nov 29 (Wed) Squaw Mountain & Sheepshead Rock Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Great viewpoints on the border between the Salmon-Huckleberry and Roaring River wilderness areas. Be prepared for any kind of weather 11 mi., 1,620 ft., Drive 110, MMC 8 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required.

Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185– Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed.

Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

NOVEMBER 2017 35

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) Upcoming Board meeting dates: Nov. 21 and Dec. 19. All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 3 p.m. and again at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executive-councilreports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page).

by Lee Davis, Mazamas Executive Director A brief Mazama Board meeting and officer election took place following the 2017 Annual Meeting on Oct. 3. Alex Fox, chair of the nominating committee, called the meeting to order. After welcoming the three new Board members, Keith Campbell, Preston Corless, and Traci Manning, the process of electing new Board officers began. Chris Kruell was nominated and confirmed as Mazama President. Board members elected Laura Pigion as Vice President based on a nomination by Darrell Weston. Marty Scott was elected as the new Treasurer, and Keith Campbell as the new Secretary.

President Kruell then called the new Board to order for their first meeting of the fiscal year. No members chose to speak at the member comment period. A motion was made, and seconded, to accept the minutes from the September board meeting. In the membership report, past Secretary Rettig noted that the membership now stands at 3,664, an all-time high, and the organization is experiencing continued growth.

Following the membership report was a short discussion of the vote on the proposed bylaws changes. The proposal to increase membership dues passed with 74% voting in favor.

In the Treasurer’s Report, past treasurer Jon Jurevic explained that because the Board meeting was taking place a week earlier than the normally scheduled meeting, the financials were not yet ready. He deferred the report until the November Board meeting, and will coordinate with Marty Scott, our new Treasurer for a smooth transition.

Lee Davis began his Executive Director’s Report by welcoming the three new Board members and touching on the upcoming schedule of Board member obligations, including the Board Retreat on Oct. 21–23, held on Mt. Hood. There was a brief discussion of the upcoming bill signing by the Governor for HB3350, which the Mazamas spearheaded in 2017 and which creates Oregon’s Office of Outdoor Recreation within OPRD.

Strategic Plan 2018–2020

The Mazama Executive Board approved a new Mazama Strategic Plan at the September Board meeting. You can expect to see full details of the plan, as well as regular updates on the progress on the plan starting in January 2018.

New Website Coming Soon!

SUMMARY OF ELECTION RESULTS FROM ANNUAL MEETING AND OFFICER ELECTION SESSION Number of votes cast 882 Member Election of Directors Keith Campbell* received 612 Preston Corless* received 523 Traci Manning* received 491 Matt Blecharz received 383 Sandra Volk received 345 MEMBER ELECTION OF NOMINATING COMMITTEE Martin Hanson* 665 John Rettig* 642 Brad Noren* 620 BYLAWS CHANGE PROPOSALS REQUIRED 2/3 YES VOTE TO PASS (66.67%) BYLAWS CHANGE PROPOSAL #1 Shall we change Article III Section 7 of Bylaws to read: An annual member shall pay dues of $60 $72 except as hereinafter provided. # of Ballots Cast 901 Yes 671 (74%) No 230 (26%) Result: Passed

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL ELECTION OF OFFICERS

(all offices uncontested)

President: Chris Kruell Vice President: Laura Pigion Secretary: Keith Campbell Treasurer: Marty Scott

A new Mazama website is coming soon! In late January 2018 you can expect a completely new Mazama web experience.

The new website will include self-managed user profiles, online class registration, online activity registration, tracking of your volunteer hours, and much more.

What you can do now to prepare: If you want to to take advantage of all the new site features, you will need a unique email address. This means if you want to manage your membership, update your contact information, sign up for any activity—including hikes and rambles!—you will need your own email address. If you share an email address with someone we recommend you securing a new personal address in order to have an account on the new site. You can call the office with your new email address or update your contact information via our online form at any time.

36 MAZAMAS

SAYING GOODBYE Marty Crouch

July 1, 1947–Sept. 11, 2017 Marty Crouch was an electrical engineer, a manager, a life coach, an entrepreneur, a husband, a father, a friend, and a life-long learner. He died in his home on September 11, 2017 at age 70.

Marty grew up on a farm near Roseburg, Oregon, completed a degree in electrical engineering at OSU and was employed for many years at the Bonneville Power Administration.

His love of the outdoors was an overarching theme in his life. In 1969 he took the Mazamas Basic Course, and in 1970 he completed Mazama climbs of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Washington. He revived his interest in mountaineering in the early 1990s as part of a multiyear process of self exploration and renewal. This led to another series of Mazama climbs in the summer of 1994 when he climbed Mt. Daniel, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Washington; the latter two led by Richard Caldwell. He also completed several other independent and solo climbs in Oregon and the Northwest. He remained a Mazama member throughout his life.

Marty had a deep commitment to the environment and expressed that through how he lived his own life; always seeking to leave his corner of the world better than he found it. This commitment and his attraction to nature were part of his lifelong spiritual seeking and his desire to understand the mysteries of life.

This led him to explore several different spiritual and religious traditions and to pursue programs of personal transformation.

Shortly after marriage to his second wife, Eddy, in 1996 they together became interested in Quakerism, and found a lasting home at Multnomah Friends Meeting, where they became members. There Marty served an important role in managing the renovation and addition project of 2007. During this period his connection with Mazamas served an important role, as the Multnomah Friends temporarily met on Sundays in the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Marty is survived by his wife Eddy Marie Crouch, his daughter Corina Kaul, son Chad Crouch, sister Kathleen Pedersen, brother Glen Crouch, sister Annette Harper, first wife Linda Pickett, and five grandchildren.

The memorial service for Marty will take place on Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 4 p.m. at The Multnomah Friends Meeting House at 4312 SE Stark Street in Portland. All are welcome. In lieu of flowers, contributions to Solar Oregon would be appreciated.

Lonay “Lon” Nelson

Dec. 29, 1930–Oct. 30, 2017 Lonay “Lon” M. Nelson, age 86, of Redmond, Oregon, passed away on October 11, 2017, after an unexpected illness. Son of Arthur and Bernice (Weiler) Nelson, he was born and raised in Forreston, Illinois.

After graduating from the University of Wisconsin Madison with a BS in mechanical engineering, he served as a Second Lieutenant in the Army Engineering Corps, stationed in Germany. After discharge, he spent his working life as a mechanical engineer and manager of production facilities in Scotland, Belgium and the United States, ultimately retiring to his playground in Central Oregon.

He was a seeker of adventure, spending his free time in the mountains and on the rivers of the Northwest.

Lon was a lifelong Mazama member, having joined the Mazamas in 1971. He was an active climb leader from 1977 to 1992. He earned the Guardian Peaks Award in 1976, the Oregon Peaks award in 1977, and the 16 Major NW Peaks award in 1977. He was awarded the 5-point leadership award in 1979, and the 15-point leadership award in 1989. He served on the Mazama Executive Council from 1983 to 1985, was Mazama Treasurer in 1984 and 1985. He also served one year on both the Whitewater (1987) and Financial Affairs (1987) Committees. He was the coordinator of the Intermediate Climbing School in 1977.

In addition to climbing all 16 major NW peaks, he rafted most of the NW rivers, taking many along with him and regaling others with tales of his travels. He completed his bucket list by circumnavigating the globe, with a side trip to Antarctica. Other passions included music, wilderness conservation, snow skiing, canyons of the Southwest and his beloved 1966 Sunbeam Tiger.

He is survived by his children, Brent, Blair, Lauren, Sander, Miel; his wife, Susan; and her children, Shannon, Kelly, Heather, Erin; his first wife, Priscilla Nelson; brother, Canden Nelson; sisters, Darlene Demetrick and Caroline Kilgore. Brother, “Bud” Nelson, predeceases him.

NOVEMBER 2017 37

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