Mazama July 2018 Magazine

July 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 7

Bulletin

off the beaten backpack pdx community night A Legacy on the Landscape An Adventure on Mt. Hood

Above: Happy climbers after a successful climb of Mt. St. Helens.

Karen Graves (center, in pink) finished her last provisional climb to be promoted to full Mazama climb leader.

Congrats Karen! Photo: Ralph Daub Left: Climber rappelling off the summit of Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM Marketing & Communications Director sarah@mazamas.org ERICA STOCK Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

FEATURES PDX Community Night, p. 6

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org

An Adventure on Mt. Hood, p. 7

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Mazamas2020, p. 10

JOHN BARKHAUSEN Education & Activities Program Coordinator johnbarkhausen@mazamas.org

Ascent: Climbing Explored, p. 20

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

The Cliff Climbers, p. 8 A Legacy on the Landscape, p. 16 Off the Beaten Backpack, p. 29

ADVERTISER INDEX CBD Rrevolution, p. 19 Green Trails, p. 39 Embark Explorations Co., 13 Next Adventure, p. 22 Montbell, p. p. 12 The Mountain Shop, p. 32 OMC, p. 27 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 19 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Events & Activities, p. 4 Membership Report, p. 13 Successful Climbers, p. 15 Mazama Library Notes, p. 22 Classics, p. 24 Mazama Lodge, p. 25 AYM, p. 26 Outings, p. 28 Saying Goodbye, p. 35 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Adver-

tising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor.

All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Reymond Drew, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)

Above: Mazamas on Reid Glacier, Mt. Hood (1901). See page 27 for more details. Cover: Megan Banker raises her arms in triumph on Mt. St. Helens. Photo: Ralph Daub

JULY 2018 3

UPCOMING EVENTS & ACTIVITIES MAZAMAS QUASQUICENTENNIAL BRAINSTORMING SESSION

JULY 10 & 18, 6:30 P.M. AT THE MMC

2019 marks Mazamas quasquicentennial: the 125th anniversary of our founding in 1894. Consider what a remarkable 125 years it has been.

Since we were established atop Mount Hood on July 19, 1894, we’ve grown and expanded considerably from our humble beginnings. Are you interested in helping guide our 125th celebration? We will be holding two community sessions on July 10 and July 18 to help brainstorm ideas, recruit volunteers, and begin planning for this historic milestone in the history of the Mazamas. Each brainstorming session will include a short historical presentation on past major anniversaries as well as food and beverages. Join us and help shape the celebration! If you have celebration ideas or would like to attend please go to beta.mazamas. org/125anniversary to RSVP.

ULTRA RUNNING CAMP

VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION NIGHT

JULY 11, OCT. 10*, JAN. 9*, 6:30–8:30 P.M. AT THE MMC

Are you a Mazama volunteer? Well, then we want to take time out to appreciate YOU! Our new Volunteer Appreciation Nights are an opportunity to socialize with your fellow volunteers, meet people who volunteer in different areas of the Mazamas, offer shout-outs to your fellow volunteers, and get updates on what is happening at the Mazamas.

If you have pictures or quotes you would like to share with your fellow attendees, please send them to sarah@ mazamas.org prior to the events.

Please RSVP for any/all nights by going to beta.mazamas.org/ volunteerappreciation. *these dates are subject to change. Please check the calendar for correct dates.

MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP

LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND

JULY 13–15 AT MAZAMA LODGE

Come and join us for the throwback Mazama hiking event of the year! Like the good ol’ days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon—PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail—covering 23 miles in two days with just a day pack. ­ DETAILS

▶▶ Total distance: Appx. 23 miles with 3,000 feet of elevation gain. ▶▶ Cost: $160 members/$190 nonmembers (includes food, lodging, transportation) ▶▶ Sign Up: Go to tinyurl.com/ MazLostLakeWeekend

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN

SAT., AUG. 11–MON., AUG. 13 AT MAZAMA LODGE

FRI., AUG. 3–SAT., AUG. 5 AT MAZAMA LODGE

FRI., AUG. 31–MON., SEPT. 3 AT MAZAMA LODGE

Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mazama Ultra Running Camp is for ultra runners to experience trail running at its finest!

Led by Krissy Moehl and Jeff Browning, during this camp you’ll spend 3 days and 2 nights exploring the beautiful trails in the Mt. Hood National Forest. During the camp, you’ll have the opportunity to circumnavigate Mt. Hood as a team. This circumnavigation is considered to be one of the crown jewels of Pacific Northwest ultra running and involves 40 (ish) miles on trail with appx. 10,000 feet of elevation gain and a variety of technical challenges—river crossings, glacier crossing, steep descents and ascents, and more all in a stunningly beautiful location. Register at beta.mazamas. org/runningcamp/

Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at the beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 2½-day, 2-night camp will include group runs, a bootcamp, a hill running clinic, a mountain safety clinic, mountain running movies, excellent instruction by top-level runners, and much more! Led

by Yassine Diboun, Joelle Vaught, Amy Sproston, and Jason Leman, this camp will get you ready to confidently run and explore the mountains on your own.

Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunkstyle lodging. New options this year to accommodate returning participants!

Register at beta.mazamas.org/ runningcamp/

Each year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail. Join us as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14-mile adventure. We carry only day packs because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail.

Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trailhead each day.

Details and registration at beta.mazamas.org/RTM

4 MAZAMAS

ADVENTURE CLIMB! SUMMER CAMP

JULY 30 AT 8:30 A.M.–AUG. 3 AT 3:30 P.M. The Mazamas is thrilled to pilot the first Adventure CLIMB! Summer Camp, an overnight camp for young adventurers ages 11–13. Based at a mountain lodge on the slopes of Mt. Hood, we’ll take day trips to local Mt. Hood crags to refine our outdoor climbing skills. Our final night we’ll camp under the stars and celebrate a great week of climbing around the campfire. Throughout the entirety of camp, climbing instructors will coach your camper at a ratio of four campers to one instructor. When not climbing we’ll explore trails through the evergreen forests of Mt. Hood, learn outdoor and camp craft, and make friendships to last a lifetime!

At Adventure CLIMB! Summer Camp, we believe outdoor climbing is a perfect way to learn personal responsibility, confidence, teamwork and an appreciation for the outdoors. Throughout the week, our campers will not only become outdoor crushers, but better outdoor stewards, problem solvers, and friends.

DETAILS: ▶▶ Ages: 11–13 ▶▶ Dates: July 30 at 8:30 a.m.–Aug. 3 at 3:30 p.m. ▶▶ Location: Multiple; base at Tyee Lodge ▶▶ Tuition: $775/camper; includes qualified climbing instructors, 24-hour supervision by experienced camp staff with wilderness medicine training, all meals, transportation during camp ▶▶ Get more info and register: beta.mazamas.org/adventureclimb

BOB WILSON EXPEDITION GRANT APPLICATION PERIOD: JUNE 1–JULY 4 The Mazamas have historically been leaders in exploring and climbing in the great and remote mountain ranges of the world. The purpose of the Bob Wilson Grants is to provide annual financial support to Mazama members who are organizing and/or leading expedition climbing ventures in the high or remote mountain regions of the world. The Bob Wilson Grants are intended to stimulate, inspire, and celebrate a renewed culture of exploratory climbing within the Mazamas and to reward our most dedicated and engaged members.

Mr. Wilson and the Mazamas wish to encourage and motivate dedicated Mazama members, volunteers, and leaders to develop their expedition climbing skills and experiences. Applications for the Bob Wilson Grants will be accepted June 1st thru July 4 for expeditions of 15 days or more to occur 6–18 months from the date of application.

A total of $10,000 is available annually, either to be given to one expedition or split up to three ways.

Go to: beta.mazamas.org/ expedition for full details

ICS APPLICATION OPENS: JULY 15 CLOSES: AUG. 6 CLASS BEGINS: AUG. 28

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST DATES: TUESDAY, NOV. 13–SUNDAY, NOV. 18 TICKETS GO ON SALE: SEPT. 1

CREVASSE RESCUE RECAP

by John Barkhausen, Education & Activity Program Coordinator This year, the Mazamas hosted two sessions of our Crevasse Rescue Skill Builder. Although the second session was held in less than ideal weather conditions, both groups of students and leaders reported very successful classes. Overall, 60 students went through the program and were taught by 22 leaders and assistants.

Each session started with an evening at the MMC with a three hour lecture, then moved on to snow for an entire Saturday field session. In the field, students broke into teams of three and worked with instructors on setting up the rescue system and initiating both 2:1 and 3:1 hauling systems. These skills were first introduced during the evening lecture, along with basics on how to organize a rope team to be ready, equipment you might need, and other considerations when preparing for and executing crevasse rescues.

This year’s crevasse rescue classes were a little different than previous years’ courses. Feedback on classes in the past, from both leaders and students, suggested there was just too much information to fit into one evening lecture and one field session. So, this year’s class focused more on the simpler skills involved in being a member of a larger rescue. This meant steering away from teaching complicated anchor building and the more complex mechanical advantage systems. In the future, the goal is to add an additional, more advanced, crevasse rescue class that will cover these skills.

The Education Committee has received quality feedback on the course, both positive and constructive. Students were excited about the amount of time they had to practice the hands on skills and the low leader to student ratio, which allowed each student to receive some quality oneon-one instruction. The Education Committee will review this feedback to determine any changes that might be made when we offer the course again next year.

JULY 2018 5

PDX COMMUNITY NIGHT

by Reymond Drew

I

was very excited to attend the Mazamas co-sponsored PDX Community Night Event on May 11, held at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. It was an evening of organizations led by folks who are people of color/queer/youth/women-led and “focused on increasing visibility and making our shared public spaces more diverse.”

What I appreciated about the event was that it was open to everyone, but centered the focus on community-building and the leadership of underrepresented and diasporic communities. (I also appreciated that there were free massages and beer?!?!)

The event was organized by the Alpenglow Collective, an online-based social climbing club for women and folks on the transgender spectrum to meet, connect, climb together and form mentorships.

Walking into the event was exciting, the energy was light and vibrant. It was wonderful to be in a room of people who understood and strongly supported diversity in combination with outdoor stoke. There were long-standing organizations alongside up-and-coming web-based platforms for outdoor diversity, like Unlikely Hikers and Venture Out. There were also local opportunities to connect, with representation from Portland-based Betties 360 and PDX Climbers of Color.

I was especially proud to be there as a Mazama.

A couple years ago as a transgender and bisexual (male) Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) student, I remember fretting, as I always do, over the gendered details: Should I buy a guy’s harness that may be too big and ultimately unsafe? Should I buy a woman’s harness, and can I find one that isn’t turquoise or purple? (Not to say that men can’t and shouldn’t wear as fabulous of climbing harnesses as they damn well please, that’s just not my personal style.) Will anyone notice my pack is a woman’s pack? Will anyone say anything because I’m such a small guy?

Then, there is me trying to talk my rambling, anxious inner monologue down off the ceiling and just be myself. Asking myself, “Geez—does it even matter?”

I’m not sure if it does matter, or if anyone did notice my pack, and if they did, if they cared. It’s doubtful. But for people in historically oppressed communities, we carry more than the weights of our packs. Personally, I always also carry worry in my mind about details like those, and unless I am alone or with people who understand the weight and maybe share the load, the worry on my shoulders disallows me to fully release myself to the freedom of the outdoors.

6 MAZAMAS

Let’s just say the freedom of the outdoors isn’t quite so free for all. It can come with a price of, at the very least, mental energy spent. At the most, inability to access outdoors and when you do, experiencing (albeit in most cases, unintentional) racism/sexism/homophobia and even flack from your own family or community for “doing white people stuff.”

Though, what I can say is this: When we enter the heart of the mountain, and we ease into the feeling of blissful release that mother nature gives us, freely; when we escape from all the noise that we all hear every day we are alive in this mixed up world …

Well, that is universal feeling.

That is why we all do these things, right? Why we climb, hike, paddle. We go outside and re-learn how to breathe again. Sometimes in our world it’s just harder to breathe for some than others— figuratively, and at times, literally.

But the beautiful gift of nature’s gentle nourishment, unstoppable stoke, and the general vibe of being alive are why we all deserve to be out there. And why it’s especially a sacred experience to go into the mountains with one’s own tribe (as indigenous people have done in the Pacific Northwest for thousands of years, far before the Mazamas were even a flicker of a thought).

I commend the Mazamas for co-hosting this event and making great efforts towards our equity initiative and the true mission statement of the organization: getting everyone a chance at the outdoors. (Supplying Portland’s queer/women/ POC community with free massages and beer is also a very commendable act).

Being at Community Night, right in the MMC where I first learned to climb, surrounded by a burgeoning community of amazing, grassroots PNW-based organizations devoted to diversity and being inclusive to everyone and general awesomeness was just like some sort of utopic heaven. And I say, let’s keep climbing towards it, friends!

PS. Shout out Richard Caldwell and Dick Bronder’s BCEP team and teaching assistants of 2016 for being an amazing group of supportive people who were nothing short of incredible allies and friends when I came out as trans to most.

PDX COMMUNITY NIGHT GROUPS ▶▶ ALPENGLOW COLLECTIVE alpenglowcollective.co (organizers of PDX Community Night) ▶▶ OUT THERE ADVENTURES outthereadventures.org ▶▶ UNLIKELY HIKERS jennybruso.com // instagram.com/ unlikelyhikers ▶▶ WILD DIVERSITY wilddiversity.com ▶▶ PDX CLIMBERS OF COLOR meetup.com/pdxclimbers-of-color ▶▶ BETTIES 360 betties360.org ▶▶ THE VENTURE OUT PROJECT ventureoutproject.com ▶▶ NW OUTWARD BOUND SCHOOL nwobs.org ▶▶ NW YOUTH CORPS nwyouthcorps.org ▶▶ RANGE thisisrange.com ▶▶ URBAN NATURE PARTNERS urban-nature-partners.org ▶▶ TERRA INCOGNITA terraincognitamedia.com

AN ADVENTURE ON MT. HOOD:

How my pack was lost and recovered on my first attempt of Mt. Hood

by Melissa Crest

S

o there I was, on my first Hood climb, watching in horror as my pack went sliding down Devil’s Kitchen, at top speed at three o’clock in the morning. I wondered if what I was seeing was really happening. Was that my pack sliding first out of sight, and then out of earshot?

Unfortunately, it was. That was my pack, along with my water, food, clothes, wallet, keys, cell phone, group gear, and helmet.

The climb was great so far. I had come directly from a 12-hour shift at work, but the pace was good, and luckily I was free from nausea or vomiting. Many on my team were not so fortunate. The sulfur pits were potent! We took a quick break and since I did not need anything, I figured it was a good time to put on my helmet. I secured my axe in the snow, and thinking the leash was attached to my hip belt, I took off my pack and set it down. In reality, the biner was clipped around both straps of the belt, when I thought it was through them. As I leaned down to get my helmet, my pack lurched forward and slipped a few feet. It held for just a second as the buckle of the hip belt stopped at the carabiner. I almost jumped for my pack—but I remembered that I was on steep terrain, my axe was not in my hands, and even if it were, I probably could not self-arrest if I started sliding down the icy slope. Then the buckle pulled through the biner and my pack slid away. My entire team watched in silence as it slid out of view. The ever supportive, compassionate, and empathetic Dick Bronder was the first to break the silence, “So if you plan to get into this sport, you really want to make sure you secure your pack when you set it down.” Noted. Thanks Dick.

There was nothing to be done, so we continued climbing up the mountain.

I was sick about my pack, and to add insult to injury, Dick told me I would not be able to summit since I had lost my helmet. That was almost worse than losing my pack. When we got to the Hogsback, my teammates gave me food, water, and layers, and then they headed up. I dug a hole in the snow, sat down and contemplated life while I waited for everyone to summit and return. Two hours later, they were back and we started our descent. As we hiked down, I scanned the snow, searching for my pack. Where did it go? Was it retrievable? Dick said

it probably fell off a cliff and was gone forever. Oh, the optimism. I thought about my phone and the “find my phone” feature on it. I did not know how accurate it would be, but perhaps it could give me a general idea.

Down at the Timberline Lodge, I called my mom (she was in town visiting) and asked her to bring my spare car key. I filled out the lost item form, listing everything in my pack and its estimated value. It was really depressing. Then I went with the team to get some food. After we ordered, I borrowed a phone, logged in to my account, and clicked “find my phone.”

In about two seconds, a map popped up with my phone on it. There it was, about 800 feet below Crater Rock and Devil’s Kitchen. It had not fallen off a cliff. In fact, it had not even fallen to the top of the Palmer. Much more hopeful, I headed back to Timberline for my vehicle. I figured I would come back in the morning to look for my pack, but I needed more beta.

I stopped in the ski patrol office, and after explaining my situation, Brandon and Aaron had me log in so they could see where my phone was on the map.

They told me that the area had quite a few crevasses and that there was a good chance that my pack fell into one. That would explain why it had stopped so high up on the mountain. But they also said there were a lot of rocks just above the crevasses and that it might have stopped there. They recommended going up and around Crater Rock and descend into the area, with a few people and protection.

Knowing that was above my experience level, I thought maybe I could post on the Mazamas page and see if anyone might want to help. I left my contact information with the ski patrol guys and headed home.

Three and a half hours later, I was finally going to bed. After pondering the beta I got from ski patrol, I had concluded that my pack must have fallen into a crevasse

and was lost to me forever. There was no point in even posting on the Mazamas page. Just then, my mom handed me her phone and said ski patrol was calling.

Brandon apologized for calling so late (it was 9 p.m.) and said that after I left, he and Aaron got off work, went to dinner, had a beer and talked it over. The weather was good and they decided they wanted to see if they could find my pack. And they did! It fell onto a pile of rocks, just feet above the first crevasse. From what he could tell, nothing had broken or gone missing. I had secured everything well and only the avy probe had fallen out, but it was close and easily retrieved. They skied my pack out and Brandon said if I checked my phone again, I would find that it was at the Timberline lodge. I could not believe what I was hearing. It was totally surreal. I thanked him profusely and said goodbye.

The next day, I drove back to Timberline and picked up my pack. Sure enough, everything was still secure. Except for a package of shot blocks and some cookies, nothing was broken. I even had a glass jar with an energy drink in it that was still intact. The only thing that I lost was a trekking pole. My pack was a little banged up, but nothing major. My helmet had a few new scratches on it too. At first I figured it was fine, but as I thought about it, I wondered what it had actually gone through. I looked closely at the foam and noticed quite a few fractures. That helmet is now retired and hanging on my wall.

So my first attempt up Mt Hood was quite the adventure. I lost my pack, but I got it back. I learned a lot and had one heck of a conditioning hike. I had the best team and leaders. Every single person helped me in some way, and I will always be grateful for their support and generosity. Finally, ski patrol members Aaron and Brandon are my favorite people around.

JULY 2018 7

8 MAZAMAS

Where is the Mazamas Headed?

O

ver the last few months you have likely heard the term strategic plan. If you aren’t familiar with business operations you may be a bit unsure about what a strategic plan actually is. At its core, a strategic plan identifies strategic that will best enable a nonprofit to advance its mission.

It is a tool that provides guidance in fulfilling a mission with maximum efficiency and impact. To be successful a good strategic plan articulates specific goals and identifies specific action steps and resources needed to accomplish them. A good strategic plan is reviewed and revamped every three to five years.

You may remember that our last strategic plan had three overarching objectives, or core areas—Expand, Enhance, and Explore. Within each of those core areas there were nine specific goals: ▶▶ Expand education and activity programs ▶▶ Expand stewardship and advocacy efforts ▶▶ Expand diversity and community engagement ▶▶ Enhance member services ▶▶ Enhance resource management ▶▶ Enhance development systems ▶▶ Explore new programs ▶▶ Explroe new services ▶▶ Explore new relationships Some of the measurable successes towards these goals include new education and activity programs such as Canyoneering and Families Mountaineering 101, increased engagement in advocacy work state-wide, launching new youth programs to serve a broader cross-section of our community, building a new website and database, and developing strong partnerships and relationships within the outdoor recreation community.

As we entered year three (2017) of our last strategic plan, the Executive Council held several listening sessions with key volunteers and leaders within our community, and commissioned an in depth survey of our membership and community. The major themese that emerged from the listening sessions and survey focused heavily on MORE—more activities, more educational opportunities, more youth programs, more advocacy, more stewardship opportunities; in addition to numerous mentions of IMPROVEMENT—better website, online registration for classes, NO MORE CLIMB CARDS, consistency in our education programs, less “cliquiness,” less “exlusivity,” and upgrades to our facilities.

Those input methods led the board to create the organization’s next strategic plan, Mazamas2020, which kicked off in January 2018. The goals and strategies of Mazamas2020 were developed to allow the Mazamas to meet the needs of our members and community, based on the survey and listening sessions.

Mazamas2020 focuses on five core areas with an overarching goal and three strategies to attain the goal. These core areas—Education, Activities & Events, Stewardship & Advocacy, Youth & Community Outreach, Community & Information—are the vertical pillars of our plan. Woven throughout the plan are three resources—Facilities, Fundraising, People, and Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion—that touch each of the core areas.

continued on next page

T

he Mazamas are embarking on a new vision for our future. It’s BIG. It’s BOLD. It’s Mazamas2020.

This vision stays true to our roots, while moving us into a leadership role in outdoor education, outdoor activities, conservation, and community outreach.

EDUCATION

Improve & Expand

ACTIVITIES & EVENTS

Expand Activity Programs

STEWARDSHIP & ADVOCACY Protect the Places We Love

YOUTH & COMMUNITY OUTREACH

Inspire the Next Generation

CULTURE & INFORMATION

Promote & Protect Mountain Culture JULY 2018 9

YOUR VOICES MATTER %

would like to see intermediate skills offered outside of ICS

MAZAMAS2020 was developed by the

Executive Council following listening sessions with key members and leaders, an environmental scan, and a comprehensive member and community survey.

Survey Participation

1098

of Mazama members

72

%

424

would like to see the Mazamas add more short duration classes.

60

86

%

ORGANIZATIONAL What do you think the FOCUS organizational focus of the

believe conservation & stewardship of natural areas is important.

%

86

% believe immersive, shorter duration classes would improve class quality.

“All the classes and activities I attempted to join were full before I had opportunities to join. The lack of accessibility was extremely frustrating.” –member response

of members support expansion of % advocacy efforts.

68

68

Can’t Meet Demand

ADVOCACY & STEWARDSHIP

of members are interested in stewardship & advocacy work.

% believe more consistency of instruction would improve our classes.

OUTDOOR EDUCATION

community members

(35%, 3734 members)

35

35

MEMBER & COMMUNITY SURVEY CONDUCTED IN MAY 2017

Mazamas should be?

78 68 29

76

%

%

of members said environmental activism is important to them.

Being leaders in advocating for

% responsible outdoor recreation

% Youth climbing education

%

of members said that advocacy for outdoor recreation and access is important in their decision to remain a member.

Adult Climbing Education

62

%

of individuals who volunteered more than 50 hours said the Mazama Lodge needed upgrades.

86

%

of Community Survey respondents feel strongly that it is important to get the next generation of kids outside.

86

%

believe that the Mazama collection of photographs, archival papers, and museum artifacts have strong historical value.

Mazamas EDUCATION

2020

THE MAZAMAS 3YEAR STRATEGIC PLAN, 20182020.

Improve & Expand INCREASE quality and consistency.

CREATE more accessible and more nimble programs.

Work with partners to create NATIONAL VOLUNTEER TRAINING STANDARDS for climbing education.

ACTIVITIES & EVENTS Expand Activity Programs SUPPORT traditional activity programs to increase opportunities.

PROMOTE Pacific Northwest mountain culture.

Utilize our new website and database to ENHANCE Mazama programs and effectiveness.

PILOT new activity programs.

STEWARDSHIP & ADVOCACY Protect the Places We Love

CULTURE & INFORMATION Promote & Protect Mountain Culture SHARE Mazama stories and historical items.

UPDATE programs to be more inclusive.

BE INVOLVED at the local and national level on outdoor recreation and access issues.

MAINTAIN OUR TRAILS with our local partners.

SUPPORT & ADVOCATE for our public lands.

YOUTH & COMMUNITY OUTREACH Inspire the Next Generation EXPAND outdoor school programming.

DEVELOP inclusive youth, community, and business outreach programs.

PILOT programs to reach under-resourced communities.

LEARN MORE: beta.mazamas.org/mazamas2020 OUR VISION: Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.

e m o c Wel

NEW MAZAMAS

Our new members join a 123year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program.

We welcome you to our ranks!

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: beta. mazamas.org/join ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

Cole Ahnberg, Mt. Hood Mercedes Angulo Acha, Mt. St. Helens Hana Binder, Mt. St. Helens Mikhail Bondarew, Mt. St. Helens Lynne Bredfeldt, Pico de Orizaba Robert Carlton, Mt. Hood Allison Cherry, Mt. St. Helens Caroline Wilson Chiang, Mt. St. Helens Sean Cook, Mt. Hood Liz Craig, Mt. Hood Eric Cross, Mt. Hood Patrick Cummings, Mt. Hood Caroline Czajkowski, Mt. St. Helens Karen De Vera, Mt. St. Helens Alexander Edward, Mt. Hood Brittany Eriksson, Mt. Hood Emma Etheridge, Mt. St. Helens Sadie Forzley, Mt. St. Helens Anika Friesinger, Mt. Hood Matthew Gantz, Mt. Hood Elida Garcia, Mt. Hood Sydney Gayda, Mt. Kilimanjaro Kyle Glidden, Mt. Hood Julie Hay, Mt. Hood Savannah Holder, Mt. St. Helens Brian Howland, Mt. Hood Hugh Jarrard, Mt. Adams Sarah Jenks, Mt. Hood Hong Jin, South Sister Talia Kahn-Kravis, Mt. Adams Jared Knapp, Mt. Hood

Greg Kos, Mt. St. Helens Megan Lennox, South Sister Julia Lin, Mt. St. Helens Darryl G. Lloyd, Mt. Adams Meng Lu, South Sister Benjamin Luedtke, Mt. Hood Teresa Marielis Rosa, Mt. St. Helens Ethan Martinez, Mt. St. Helens Jon Mccliment, Mt. Hood Jeremy McLain, Old Snowy Ryan Peterson, Mt. St. Helens Lindsay Pyrch, Mt. Adams Kristina Bonita Rodriguez, Mt. St. Helens Rodny Rodriguez, Mt. St. Helens Katherine Rott, Mt. St. Helens Vasudev Rupanaguntla, Mt. St. Helens Geoff Schau, Mt. Hood Eileen Sterlock, Mt. St. Helens Chris Stewart, Mt. St. Helens Erica Stock, N. Arapaho Peak Qi Tian, South Sister Ali Tranquilli, Mt. St. Helens John Van Voorhies, Mt. St. Helens Hannah Wentz, Mt. Hood Chelsea Whitfield, Mt. Hood Caroline Wilson Chiang, Mt. St. Helens Luke Winkler, South Sister Matt G Winkler, South Sister Andrew Yorra, Mt. Hood Logan Young, Mt. Hood Jessica Zahnow, South Sister

NEW MEMBERS: 62 REINSTATEMENTS: 8

Chris C Abell (2011), Kyle M. Branderhorst (2015), Amine M. Chater (2015), Tomi Sawyer Guzman (1973), Kirsten K. Isakson (2013), Shannon Leahy (2016), Michael Murray (1972), Laurie A Rieschel (2005)

DECEASED: 3 Alexander Edward (2018), Margaret “Peg” Gauthier (2010), and Robert Schuberg (1961)

Total Membership as of May 31, 2018—3,466; 2017—3,518

JULY 2018 13

2018 RESEARCH GRANTS

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

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limb seaon is well underway! This is our first climbing season with our new online application system and so far the process has gone relatively smoothly. Thanks to all of our climb leaders and assistants for leading 284 climbers to a mountain summit from April 19–June 22!

2018 CURRENT CLIMBING STATS Successful Climbers: 284 Unique Climbers: 218 Leaders & Assistants: 90 Different Routes: 20 Successful Climbers on Mt. Hood South Side: 97 Total Climbs: 208 Completed Climbs: 50 Canceled Climbs: 29 Climbs that have yet to occur: 129 Routes with the Highest Number of Climbs Mt. Hood South Side: 10 Unicorn Peak: 7

April 19, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Jesse Applegate, Asst. Michael Hortsch. Paul Castleton, Thomas Ciobanasiu, Anthony Traver, Ashley Wood 4/22, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Marc Milobinski, Asst. Vaqas Malik. Lindsey Addison, Matt Gardner, Mary Martel, Jamie McGilvray, Jessica Minifie, Ken Park May 2, Mt. Hood, Sunshine. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Chaitanya Sathe. Michael Austin, Alex Lockard, Prasanna Narendran, Greg Simons, Mark Stave, Alden Wilson May 2, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Eric Brainich, Asst. Walker McAninch-Runzi. Alexis Blank, Bryce Buchanan, Anika Friesinger, Julie Hay, Linda Hernandez, Jared Knapp, Lisa Lesko, Koko Olszewski, Michael Steiner.

May 3, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst. Chris Reigeluth. Lacey Jones, Chris Reigeluth May 4, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst. Lindsey Mayo. Lindsey Addison, Eric Cross, Darren Ferris, Duncan Hart, Sarah Jenks, Kevin Kohberger, Hana (Hanka) Manova, Steve Mogentale May 4, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Karen Graves, Asst. Bruce Yatvin. Mercedes Angulo Acha, Megan Banker, Ralph Daub, Greg Kos, David Pritchett, Justin Thibeault, Sophie Turnbull-Appell May 5, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Scott Auble. Kirsten Auble, Alyssa (Maka) Chee, Marsha Fick, Elida Garcia, Carl Gibson, Alex Ivkin, Talia KahnKravis, Nathan Kaul, Jessica Minifie, Stephanie Nelson. Honorary team members: Earl Reitsma, Ruth Reitsma.

May 7, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: John Godino, Asst. Michael Austin. Debbie Dwelle, Emily Harris, Anna Lio, Matthew Perkins, Chris Reigeluth, Grant Schoepper, Adonay Solleiro, Brett Taute, Michael Tran, Alex Willson May 8, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Scott Auble.

Anthony (Tony) Carr, Mary Martel, Mamiko Okada, Reynold Orchard, Joe Powell May 13, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Darrell Weston, Asst. Adonay Solleiro. Chelsea Whitfield, Cole Carr, Liz Craig, Alexander Edward, Cory Fiendell, Benjamin Luedtke, Katie Polanshek, Geoff Rahe, Kelly Rini.

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May 14, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst. Jonathan Myers. Lane Williamson, Gautam Ghare, Josh Kevek, Anupama Kurpad, Andrew Leaf, Mamiko Okada, David Pritchett, Stephen Whittington May 15, 2018, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst. Suresh Singh. Sean Cook, Thomas Eriksen, Marjorie (Margie) Hendryx, Geoff Schau, Rachel Smith, Dawn Van Seggen May 18, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst. Trey Schutrumpf. Jessica Dalton, John McElravy, Jim Rehill, Marc Rouleau, Scott Templeton, Katrin Valdre May 18, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst. Alex Lockard. Carmel Adrian, Chris Reigeluth May 20, Silver Star Mountain, Silver Star Glacier. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst. Dirk Lakeman. Amit Abraham, Jean Hillebrand, Benjamin Luedtke, Helene Simon May 20, Big Snagtooth. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst. Dirk Lakeman. Amit Abraham, Jean Hillebrand, Benjamin Luedtke, Helene Simon May 20, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Shane Harlson, Asst. Kirk Rohrig. Scott Auble, Daven Berg, Ian McCluskey, Katherine Peterson, Eileen Sterlock May 22, Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct.

Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Greg Simons. Linda Musil, Stacia Torborg, Alden Wilson May 25, Ingalls Peak, South Face. Leader: Jesse Applegate, Asst. Tyler Bax. Larry Beck, Anna Lio, Antonio Tatum May 27, Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Eric Brainich. Michael Austin, Alicia Brittain, Douglas Brittain, Anna Buckley May 27, Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Thomas Dodson. Amit Abraham, Carmel Adrian, Patrick Aitchison, Greg Hughes, Leslie Shotola, Lawrence Welsh May 27, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: George Shay, Asst. Dirk Lakeman. Mercedes Angulo Acha, Kurt Brendley, Sarah Johnson, Rae Lantsberger, Katie Polanshek, Geoff Rahe, Kelly Rini, Katherine Rott, Kevin Swearengin, Guy Wettstein May 28, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Leader: Greg Scott, Asst. Christine Troy.

Ashly Crockett, Eric Geisler, Sarah Hargand, Petra LeBaron Botts, Stephanie Nelson, Katherine Peterson, Rebecca Silverman, John Van Voorhies, Hannah Wentz.

May 29, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst. Marty Scott. Sue Dimin, Betsy Gascon, Ryan Schademan, Shu-Yao Sheu June 1, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst. Grant Causton.

David Andrews, Jeremiah Biddle, Brittany Eriksson, Laura House, Connie Keller, Shane Lorimer, Meng Lu, Jeannine Rouleau, Marc Rouleau.

June 1, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Teresa Redman, Asst. Shane Harlson.

Megan Banker, Betsy Gascon, Kyle Hayslip, Sarah Hughes, Stephen Kingsbury, George Mercure, Andy Phan, Nachiket Rajderkar, Jonathan Sarko, Brett Taute June 2, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Tyler Bax, Asst. John Godino. Brian Clament, Sadie Forzley, Cameron Harkness, Nadia Rivera, Rebecca Silverman, Justin Thibeault June 2, The Tooth, South Face. Leader: Jesse Applegate, Asst. James Jula. Erin Beyer, Ryan Reed June 2, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge.

Leader: Alex Fox, Asst. Toby Contreras.

Mikhail Bondarew, Connor Chamberlin, Noah Enelow, Sarah Klain, David Pritchett, Tamara Ross, Christine Troy, Alex Willson June 2, Mt. Hood, Wy’east. Leader: Joe Eberhardt, Asst. Long Ong. Jonathan Myers, Chaitanya Sathe, Zsuzsanna Vida.

June 3, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst. Harry Colas.

Cody Haener, Lauren Haener, Kirsten Jacobson, Cesia Kearns, John Lombard, Satya Nanda, Scott Stevenson, Thomas Williams June 3, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Leader: Jason Breaker, Asst. Wim Aarts. Chad Atwood, Joe Crook, Greg Hughes, Koko Olszewski, Guy Wettstein June 3, South Sister, Devil’s Lake.

Leader: Karen Graves, Asst. Lynne Pedersen.

Mercedes Angulo Acha, Jori Cachelin, Ken Cachelin, Teresa Dalsager, Kristi Hooton, Kevin Marold, John Maroney, Jen Travers, Alan Wiest, Jessica Zahnow June 4, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Jeremy Galarneaux.

Alan Armstrong, Tarun Gudz, Oksoon Mora, Chris Reigeluth, Eileen Sterlock

June 5, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Vaqas Malik, Asst. Jonathan Myers. Linda Hernandez, Lisa Lesko, Sandee Myers, Steven Reid, Tom Shi, Ross Thomas, Richard Urban, Katrin Valdre, Hannah Wentz.

June 10, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Jason Breaker, Asst. Rico Micallef. Becky Corcoran, Anika Friesinger, Jeremy Galarneaux, Deborah James, John Maroney, Alia Odoms, Scott Stevenson June 12, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Joe Petsche, Asst. Kirk Newgard. Juanfran Carceles, Caroline Czajkowski, Ben Dair Rothfuss, John Lombard, Jeff Tolentino June 15, Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier.

Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Eric Brainich.

Michael Austin, Anna Buckley, Yev Krasnitskiy, Chaitanya Sathe June 15, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst. Alex Lockard. Charles Blanke, Jesse Collins, Jessica Dalton, Aimee Filimoehala, John Gist, Koko Olszewski, Bryan Paul, Grant Schoepper, Adrianna Stanley.

June 15, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Leader: Joe Eberhardt, Asst. Seeger Fisher. Yukti Aggarwal, Brent Ayrey, Kerra Blakely, Duncan Hart, Linda Hernandez, Dawn Van Seggen June 16, The Brothers, South Couloir/ Lena Lake. Leader: Michael Levis, Asst.

Andrew Bodien. Cole Ahnberg, Eric Bruckbauer, Shane Lorimer, Hana (Hanka) Manova, Rachel Smith June 16, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Joshua Lockerby, Asst. Angela Schaefer.

Doug Couch, Prateek Dujari, Keith Epstein, Eric Hall, Kirsten Jacobson, Whitney Lindahl, John Lombard, Greg Long, Chelsea Whitfield.

June 17, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: George Shay, Asst. Steve Warner.

Alexis Millett, Sumedh Naik, Ken Park, Chris Reigeluth, Martin Rio, Tina Summers, Brandon Wynne June 22, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Greg Scott, Asst. Ryan Abbott.

Robert Carlton, Matthew Gantz, Sarah Hargand, Kaitlin Rupert, Michael Tran, Michael Whitlock, Alex Willson

2018 CLIMB LEADERS A BIG thank you to all of our climb leaders who scheduled a climb this season! This list shows the climb leaders and the number of climbs they have on the 2018 climb schedule. In total there are 208 individual climbs on the calendar. Happy climbing!

Jesse Applegate (3) Gary Ballou (4) Tyler Bax (2) Larry Beck (3) Gary Bishop (5) Andrew Bodien (5) Eric Brainich (4) Jason Breaker (2) Bob Breivogel (10) Dick Bronder (7) Amy Brose (1) Howie Davis (5) Joe Eberhardt (6) Alex Fox (3) John Godino (3) Karen Graves (3) Shane Harlson (11) Morgan Harvey (3) Michael Hortsch (3) Jill Kellogg (1) Chris Kruell (2) Andrew Leaf (2) Michael Levis (4) Eugene Lewins (1) Josh Lockerby (3)

Vaqas Malik (3) Linda Mark (4) Bill McLoughlin (5) John Meckel (2) Rico Micallef (14) Daniel Mick (13) Marc Milobinski (2) Long Ong (4) Lynne Pedersen (6) Joe Petsche (2) Teresa Redman (3) Greg Scott (3) Marty Scott (1) George Shay (5) Ray Sheldon (1) Bill Stein (6) Matt Sundling (9) Steve Warner (2) Shirley Welch (1) Jeffrey Welter (4) Darrell Weston (1) Joe Whittington (2) Ania Wiktorowicz (2) Doug Wilson (6) Bruce Yatvin (7)

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JULY 2018 15

A Legacy on the Landscape

Above: Reid on Reid Glacier, July 16, 1901.

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

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lace names are integral to our knowledge and understanding of Mazama history. The nomenclature of Pacific Northwest geographic features, more often than not goes unrecognized and is often forgotten. Unknown to most, the Mazamas and its members have influenced the names of many places around the Northwest. The story begins, as many recountings of Mazama history does, with our founder William Gladstone Steel.

16 MAZAMAS

WILLIAM STEEL, MT. HOOD, AND MT. MAZAMA Besides founding the Mazamas and helping to establish Crater Lake National Park, the nomenclature place names fascinated Steel. He worked for many years to compile a catalog of over 40,000 place names. It seems only fitting then that Steel Cliff on Mt. Hood honors him.

Steel is also responsible for the naming of Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock and Mississippi Head. In 1887 he organized and led a party that carried 100 pounds of red fire up to the mountain’s top and set them alight as part of that year’s July 4 celebration. Anyone who could see the mountain that night could see the fire atop Illumination Rock. In 1905 Steel named Mississippi Head for that state’s delegation to the National Editorial Association, who held their annual convention in Portland that year.

While on the subject of Mt. Hood, the Mazamas have either named or have influenced the naming of several other prominent features on the mountain. In 1901 the Mazamas named Reid Glacier for Professor Harry Fielding Reid of Johns Hopkins University to honor his work studying glaciers. Others include the naming of Glisan Glacier for long-time member Rodney L. Glisan and Leuthold Couloir for Mazama Joseph Leuthold. In the late 1990s, the U.S. Forest Service renamed the Cathedral Ridge trail the Mazama Trail to recognize the organization’s long association and history with the mountain.

All this pales in the satisfaction Steel must have felt when, in 1896, the ancient mountain whose caldera now holds Crater Lake was named Mt. Mazama in honor of the organization he founded. Steel loved Crater Lake and worked for seventeen years to have the area declared a National Park. He later served as the park’s second superintendent.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE In 1914 the State Highway Commission asked Mazamas to recommend names for some of the places along the Columbia River Highway.

The council sanctioned a committee to study the issue and make recommendations. In 1915 the committee submitted their proposals to the Mazamas and the Highway Commission.

The commission accepted the majority of the recommendations. We know them today as Metlako Falls, Munra Point, Ruckel Creek, Tumult Creek, Wahclella Falls, Wahe Falls, Wahkeena Falls, Wuana Point, Elowah Falls, and Yeon Mountain. Don Onthank, a long-time member known to many as Mr. Mazama, gave the name to Bruin Mountain and the Rock of

Ages Trail, both in the Gorge. And for a short while, there existed a Mazama Mystery Trail in the Gorge in the vicinity of Saint Peter’s Dome.

MT. ADAMS, MT. BAKER, AND MT. RAINIER The Mazamas influence extends beyond Hood and the Gorge. Mazama and northwest mountaineer Claude E. Rusk is the namesake of Rusk Glacier on Mt. Adams. On Mt. Baker, the Mazama Dome honors the organization, while the Mazamas named Roosevelt Glacier

in 1906 for U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt. The Mazamas is the namesake for the Mazama Glaciers on both Adams and Baker. The Mazamas petitioned in 1948 to have the Mazama Glacier on Mt. Adams renamed to honor five-time Mazama President Charles Sholes, but the request was denied.

Mazama founding member Fay Fuller is the source for Fay Peak, on the slopes of Mt. Rainier.

continued on next page JULY 2018 17

PLACES, continued from previous page FOREST PARK Closer to home, the Mazamas advocated for the creation of Forest Park. For their efforts, the city allowed for the establishment of the Mazama Forest inside the park. Now all but forgotten, this area was overseen by the Mazamas. Besides planting thousands of trees, the Mazamas sourced various types of rhododendrons from around the region and transplanted them. The Hardesty Trail leading to the forest honors Mazama President William Hardesty.

MOUNT ST. HELENS Until the summer of 1967, all the glaciers on Mount St. Helens were nameless.

In May of 1966, Keith Gehr, a frequent Mazama climb leader and then head of 18 MAZAMAS

the Mazama Outing Committee, set out to rectify the situation. Over three months Keith worked the phones and wrote countless letters to determine why there were no given names. Keith’s search turned up an ally when he contacted Dr. Mark Meier, a glaciologist for the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS). After getting assurances from the USGS that the 11 permanent ice bodies on the mountain were, in fact, actual glaciers, Keith and Mark set about researching and submitting names for them. Keith wrote, “After much research in the Mazama library on the early history of the Mt. St. Helens area, particularly as it is related to climbing, a set of names was proposed. Differences of opinion between the Mazamas, Forest Service, and Geological Survey were quickly resolved

in across-the-table meetings.” The eleven names recommended were: Forsyth, Nelson, Ape, Shoestring, Swift, Dryer, Talus, Toutle, Wishbone, Loowit, and Leschi. In November of 1967, the Board of Geographic Names, based in Washington D.C., approved the Mt. Saint Helens glacier names based on recommendations from the Mazamas.

Three of the names—Forsyth, Nelson, and Dryer—honored individuals. Charles Forsyth led six companions in the first rescue on St. Helens during the 1908 Mazama Outing. Over a grueling 48-hours, he led north-south and south-north traverses of the mountain to bring an injured climber to safety. Lorenz Nelson, a pioneer of Northwest mountaineering, 50-year Mazama member, and a two-time

president is the namesake for the Nelson Glacier. Thomas Dryer was the founder and first editor of the Oregonian newspaper and a member of the party that first climbed St. Helens in 1853. The remaining glaciers took their names from either their shapes or from Native American heritage.

Unfortunately The 1980 eruption vaporized Wishbone, Loowit, and Lesch glaciers and significantly reduced Nelson, Shoestring, and Forsyth glaciers.

Diligent searches through almost a hundred years of Mazama Bulletins has turned up many other places named for or by the Mazamas and its members. To name a few of the more interesting and unique: Lost Park in Beaverton; the Mazama Campground at Crater Lake; Sahale Peak near Washington’s Lake Chelan was named for the organization’s motto; Mt. Thielsen’s Lathrop

Glacier, for Mazama Theodore Lathrop; and finally the small seasonal lake that appears atop South Sister was named Teardrop Lake by three young Mazamas on a hike.

While this recounting of place names around the Northwest is in no way comprehensive, it provides a glimpse into the influence the Mazamas have had on the nomenclature and the history of the region. Place names are anchors by which the Mazamas are tied to the mountains, valleys, glaciers, and ridges and act as markers of where the organization has traveled, climbed, and camped. As the Mazamas enter into their 124th year, the places named for and by the Mazamas are a proud reminder of the organization’s long and deeply rooted legacy on the landscape.

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Ascent: Climbing Explored An Exibit at High Desert Museum article & photos by Mathew Brock

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new exhibit recently opened at the High Desert Museum in Bend, Oregon that is of interest to all Mazamas. Ascent: Climbing Explored showcases the dynamic history, evolution, and culture of climbing and mountaineering in the West. Curated by High Desert Museum staff, the exhibit tells the story of how technology pushed the sport to new heights over several decades, explores the geology of the High Desert region, and shares the vibrant culture climbers cultivated along the way.

Above: Chouinard Equipment exhibit case featuring signed ice axe and catalog from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections. Right: Summit register container exhibit case featuring containers from Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

20 MAZAMAS

Curator of Western History Dr. Laura Ferguson spent the better part of a year researching the sport as she developed the exhibit. “The climbing community has been incredibly generous, and I’ve loved having a chance to learn more about the history of climbing from those who played a key role in shaping it,” said Dr. Laura Ferguson.

Over eighty objects from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections are on loan to the High Desert Museum. A few of the objects featured in the exhibit include an alpenstock, early 1900s women’s climbing boots, and a wide array of summit register containers. Besides physical objects, the Mazama Library also provided many photographs used throughout the exhibit. Jeff Thomas, a renowned climber, author, and Mazama Library volunteer loaned several artifacts from his personal collection, including a complete rock climbing rack used during many first ascents at Smith Rock.

The exhibition takes an incredible journey back in time, tracing modern-day climbing to its early mountaineering roots when people began exploring peaks in pursuit of scientific discovery. It examines the rise in mountaineering expeditions that followed as people started to climb for the sheer joy of it and the development of rock climbing. Along the way, it highlights technical advances—from evolving shoe styles to the advent and improvement of safety gear.

The exhibit also features beautiful artwork and objects on loan from around the region and across the nation, including the Smithsonian American Art Museum, the Oregon Historical Society, and Patagonia. The exhibit highlights the geology of the area, including Smith Rock, which became a national destination in the 1980s. “It’s exciting that Smith Rock, which has played a significant role in the world of climbing, is right in our backyard,” said Dr. Ferguson. The exhibition also addresses the importance of balancing adventure-based, outdoor recreation with environmental stewardship.

“Ascent provides a connection between the past and present, exploring climbing from its humble beginnings through the enthusiastic following the sport has today,” said the Museum’s Executive Director, Dana Whitelaw, Ph.D. “Climbing culture runs deep in our region and we’re pleased to be able to expand our visitors’ knowledge through this exhibit.” The exhibition runs through September 3, 2018.

Above: Early mountaineering gear exhibit case featuring alpinstock, boots, jackets, and climbing gear from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections. Right: Climbing ropes from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

JULY 2018 21

Mazama LIBRARY Notes

by Mathew Brock

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stablished in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS ▶▶ Hiking Washington’s Fire Lookouts, Amber Casali, 2018. This is the quintessential guide to hiking the fire lookouts of Washington’s Cascades and Olympics. The guide features information, history, anecdotes and full-color photographs for the 44 fire lookouts that are accessible by trail throughout the spring and summer months.

917.97 C26 ▶▶ Climb to Fitness: The ultimate guide to customizing a powerful workout on the wall, Julie Ellison, 2018. This guide shows anyone who visits the climbing gym, from beginners to veteran climbers, how best to use the various parts of the gym for their own customized workout. 796.5 E5 ▶▶ A Glimpse into History: What prominent people have said about nature in Oregon and the need to conserve it, by Michael McCloskey, 2018. This book features the words of over ninety figures who turned Oregon into the premier “green” state. They were explorers, pioneers, settlers, ministers, and climbers to name just a few. They shaped the culture that saw value in nature and demanded policies to protect it. Through their inspiring words, their presence is still felt. 979.5 M13 ▶▶ End of the rope: mountains, marriage, and motherhood, by Jan Redford, 2018.

In this funny and gritty debut memoir, Jan Redford grows from a nomadic rock climber to a mother who fights to win back her future. She recounts heart-stopping adventures, from being rescued off El Capitan to leading a group of bumbling cadets across a glacier. It is her laughter-filled memoir of learning to climb and of friendships with women in that masculine world. Most moving, this is the story of her struggle to make her way in the mountains and life. To lead, not follow. 920 R25

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at beta.mazamas.org/library 22 MAZAMAS

CLASSICS OF MOUNTAINEERING: ▶▶ The story of Everest, by Captain John B. L. Noel, 1927.

An account of the first three attempts on Everest by the mountaineer, filmmaker and photographer to the 1922 and 1924 expeditions. In 1924, Noel formed a private company which paid for the photographic rights of that year’s Everest expedition. Noel reached the North Col and used a specially adapted camera to film the ascent of the peak. A note from George Mallory to Noel was the last contact with the explorer before he and fellow climber Andrew Irvine disappeared. 915.42 N76

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Ice-capped mountains occur near the equator in three places: the Andes, East Africa, and New Guinea. ▶▶ San Marino is the world’s smallest republic and consists mainly of the limestone mass known as Monte Titano (2,382 ft). ▶▶ Japan mounts more overseas mountaineering expeditions than any other country. ▶▶ Bolivia is the only landlocked country through which the Andes pass.

BOOKS FOR ARMCHAIR EXPLORERS: ▶▶ Travels along the Edge: 40 ultimate adventure for the modern nomad, David Noland, 910.4 N71 ▶▶ The Explorers: a story of fearless outcasts, blundering geniuses, and impossible success, Martin Dugard, 910.D87 ▶▶ Points Unknown: a century of great exploration, David Roberts, 910.R54p

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to the Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood-handled ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographics magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections.

Thank you for your support.

Are you ready to support the Mazama Library? Go to beta. mazamas.org/donate and select Library & Historical Collections.

JULY 2018 23

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

Featured Event

DICK AND JANE MILLER’S POTLUCK PICNIC— SATURDAY, JULY 7 AT 12:30 P.M.

You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s home for their annual potluck picnic. Plan to attend and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided, but if you have a favorite beverage please bring it along. Plates and utensils will be provided.

Dick and Jane are at 17745 SW Cooper Mtn. Lane, Beaverton.

Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to 217. Go south on 217 to the Scholls Ferry Rd. exit across from Washington Square.

Take a right onto Scholls Ferry Road and go west to SW 175th Avenue. Turn right and go up the hill ¾ mile to Cooper Mtn. Lane on the left. This is on a curve with limited sight distance, so use caution making the left turn onto Cooper Mtn. Lane.

Then follow the Miller signs and orange traffic cones to the Miller driveway. If you have any questions, call Dick or Jane at 503-590-3598. We’ll see you there!

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@ mazamas.org, or classics@mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@ mazamas.org if you are interested.

LEADING EVENTS IN AUGUST Send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.

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UPCOMING CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING JULY 23 & SEPT. 24, 11 A.M.–12:30 P.M. AT THE MMC CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

CLASSICS OPINION POLL The Classics Committee is conducting an opinion poll to solicit Classics’ preferences for events. We know some Classics don’t get email, so those wanting a copy may call the MMC to request a hard copy. Call the MMC front desk at 503-2272345 and we will mail a copy. Please return poll by June 25.

THURS. JULY 26: MOSIER TUNNELS An A-1 hike: 1.8 miles round trip with 160 feet elevation gain. This is an interesting hike that is on a paved road that goes through the Mosier tunnels. The initials of those marooned in the tunnel during a snow storm are carved on a rock at the mouth of the tunnel. Windows carved in the walls of the tunnel give views of the river. We will leave the MMC at 10 a.m. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@ comcast.net, 503-816-5713

FRI. AUG 31: LODGE LUNCHEON On Friday, August 31 we will have our annual Lodge Luncheon at 11:30 a.m.

Contact the MMC (503-227-2345) or email classics@mazamas.org to reserve your spot. We will have carpools meet at the MMC at 10 a.m. If you want to carpool, mention that when you register (either as a rider or a driver).

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Summer Hours: Open Daily AVAILABILITY

SUMMER SPEAKER SERIES

Mazama Lodge has lots of availability July 1-5 and then a few bunks available July 9-19. As with past summers we are serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

In May–September we will be hosting a speaker the first Sunday of the month. The summer speaker series offers dinner at 5 p.m. and a program at 6 p.m. Dinner is $13.25.

MEMORIAL DAY WORK PARTY

PDX HIKING 365 IN NW OREGON AND SW WASHINGTON: JULY 1

A special thank you to Rick Amodeo who coordinated the spring work party this past Memorial Day. We had 17 volunteers who helped us tidy up the lodge for summer use and get a jump start on winter wood piles. Three cords split, and four more cords to go!

SUMMER CARETAKER Welcome back to Renee Smith who will be working her final summer as caretaker at the lodge and then off to graduate school in speech pathology in Utah.

LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND Space is still available for the Lost Lake Chuckwagon weekend that starts July 13. This event is a supported 22-mile hike from Timberline Lodge to Lost Lake. We provide all your meals and transportation back to Mazama Lodge. All you need to carry is day pack. Go to beta.mazamas.org/ mazamalodge for more details.

Guidebook author and Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder has spent the past five years writing about the best places to go hiking throughout the year. His new book PDX Hiking 365 is the fruit of that labor, the first guidebook ever in the Portland area to organize hikes by month and season. PDX Hiking 365 offers quiet urban trails, rainforest rivers and open desert skies in the winter, hikes through fields of wildflowers in the spring, treks high on glaciated peaks in the summer, and explorations through the finest fall color hikes in the fall. From January to December, you’re sure to find something perfect for each month of the year. Matt will describe some of this favorite hikes from PDX Hiking 365 from old favorites to obscure classics. Books will be available for purchase after the presentation

SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATE: AUG. 5 Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. Show features shots and stories of adventures to Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to Mazamas.

THE BEST OF TANZANIA: SEPT. 2 Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach route is the most challenging and also by far the most dangerous way to summit, but it is not as technical as it’s often portrayed. John Leary and friends found there are some tricky sections that require scrambling but not advanced rock climbing skills. The challenge offers the chance to do something unusual and to be different. Where all other routes take you to the crater rim, this route takes you inside the crater before topping out. They will also share their experience on safari post-climb.

Jerome Schiller working on signs at the Mazama Lodge Memorial Day work party.

JULY 2018 25

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check the website at beta.mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

MONDAY, JULY 2—PORTLAND HISTORY HIKES: RAMBLE: NOB HILL TO KINGS HEIGHTS AND PITTOCK MANSION LOOP Are you new to Portland or just curious about the city you live in? Do you want to wake up late and stick close to town? If so, join this Portland History Hike!

We’ll explore the Nob Hill and Kings Heights neighborhoods as we make our way up to Pittock Mansion where I’ll share some history about the Pittock family.

4.75 miles. 850 ft. gain. Meet at the entrance of Wallace Park, at the corner of NW 25th and NW Pettygrove Street., 6 p.m. Leader: Krista Collins

SATURDAY, JULY 7— PORTLAND HISTORY HIKES: ST JOHN’S STREETS TO FOREST PARK LOOP Are you new to Portland or just curious about the city you live in? Do you want to wake up late and stick close to town?

If so, join this Portland History Hike! We’ll explore a bit of the St. John’s neighborhood before crossing over the iconic St. John’s Bridge up to several trails in and around Forest Park. 5 miles.

1,000 ft. gain. Meet in front of the entrance to the St. John’s Multnomah County Library, at 7510 N Charleston Ave, 9:30 a.m.

Leader: Krista Collins

WEDNESDAY, JULY 4— HIKE: TABLE ROCK We will head to the Table Rock Wilderness east of Molalla for a hike to the top of Table Rock.

This hike features dramatic basalt cliffs, wildflowers, and views from Mount St. Helens and Mt. Rainier all the way to the Three Sisters. 7.2 miles, 1,540 ft. gain. Drive: 120 miles round-trip.

Leader: Keith Dechant. RSVP on meetup.

THURSDAY, JULY 12—HIKE: SOUTH WATERFRONT SUNSET Join us on a conditioning ramble in the South Waterfront.

Bring a climbing pack or weight vest. We’ll start at OHSU Collaborative Life Sciences building and climb 5000+ stairs culminating at the main campus.

Pack a favorite juice or tea for victory toast as we return by Marquam Gulch. Meet CLSB NW entrance 6 p.m. 3 miles, 2,000 ft. gain, $2. Leader: Toby Creelan

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SUNDAY, JULY 15— HIKE: OPAL CREEK This wonderful area is home to some of the Cascade Range’s largest trees and deepest green pools. We’ll hike to Jawbone Flats and then stop to check out Opal Pool. If there is time and interest we will continue upstream to the less crowded Cedar Flats, passing several beautiful pools. Hike: 7.2 miles, 500 ft. gain. (Cedar Flats is 10 miles and 500 ft. gain). Drive: 186 miles RT. NW Forest Pass. Meet in the NW corner of Gateway Transit Center, 6:30 a.m.

Wilderness—Limit12.

Leader: Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu

FRIDAY, JULY 20— HIKE: SILVER STAR VIA GROUSE VISTA Do you have summer Fridays off and are looking for something to do? Silver Star Mountain has a great 360-degree summit view boasting a rocky, exposed viewpoint of five major Cascade volcanoes. It is also a great wildflower area in the spring and summer. We will hike at a moderate pace (1.52mi/hour). Hike capped at 8 people. 6 miles. 2,040 ft. gain.

Meeting at Gateway Transit Center, 8:45 a.m. Drive: 70 miles RT. Washington Discover Pass. Leader: Sweeney Grabin. RSVP on Meetup

THURSDAY, JULY 19—HIKE: SUNSET AT POWELL BUTTE Come ramble through the oak groves and open fields of gorgeous Powell Butte.

We’ll take in a full panorama of the nearby Cascade peaks and watch the sun go down and the stars come out as you’re regaled with tales of the volcanic history of the butte.

Pack a dinner (and snacks to share if you’re so inclined!).

Meet in Powell Butte parking lot (3979 SE 162nd Ave, Portland, OR 97236) at 7:15 p.m. We’ll head out by 7:30 p.m. Leader: Lauren Sankovitch

SATURDAY, JULY 21— HIKE: SHEEP CANYON Join us for one of the best day-hiking loops on Mount St. Helens. This trail offers an excellent loop through a continually changing volcanic landscape, including oldgrowth forest, views, alpine splendor, dramatic canyons, meadows, and creeks. For the geology buffs, this area also offers views of the edge of the blast zone from the 1980 eruption. Hike: 11.3 miles round-trip, 2,535 ft. gain.

Drive: 140 miles round-trip.

Leader: Keith Dechant. RSVP on meetup.

Stay Connected ▶Like ▶ us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶Follow ▶ us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶Subscribe ▶ to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶Read ▶ the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/ mazamas. ▶Advertise ▶ your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

FRIDAY, JULY 27–SUNDAY, JULY 29—CAMPING: NEWBERRY VOLCANIC MONUMENT Welcome to 21/2 days of camping, exploration and heaps of geological fun ... all in the giant caldera of an extinct volcano! If you’ve been on any hike/climb with me before you know I LOVE geology and engaging others. So if you’re into getting your nerd AND your sweat on then THIS is the trip for you! Leader: Lauren Sankovitch. Payment is required w/RSVP to reserve spot. $25 members/$35 nonmembers.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 11–12— BACKPACK: PERSEID METEOR SHOWER Come along for a wilderness trek during the Perseid meteor shower. We’ll enjoy alpine wildflowers and flows of volcanic glass in the Obsidian Falls area. Meet 6 a.m. at the MMC. Capped at ten hikers.

Limited Entry Permit. 16 miles, 2,800 ft., B3. NW Forest Pass required. Leader: Toby Creelan

FRIDAY, AUGUST 31– MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 3—CAMPING: CRATER LAKE/UMPQUA NATIONAL FOREST An AYM tradition continues as we explore new territory! AYM will spend this Labor Day Weekend at the lone group campsite at Horseshoe Bend Campground in Umpqua National Forest.

This will serve as our three-night basecamp for explorations from basic to strenuous difficulty levels along the North Umpqua River, as well as hikes around Mt. Bailey, Mt. Thielsen, and our coveted Crater Lake National Park.

Event Coordinator: Mike Kacmar. Members $45/ Nonmembers $60.

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

Above: AYM Hikers at Coyote Wall. Photo: Reena Clements

JULY 2018 27

CONSERVATION GRANTS This year the Mazama Conservation Committee awarded $20,000 in grants to our conservation partners. ▶▶ BARK is offering Base Camp 2018, a two-week campout in the proposed North Clackamas Timber Sale in August. The campout provides ecology and ground-truthing training and fieldwork for volunteers. ($2,500) ▶▶ CASCADE FOREST CONSERVANCY ( formerly Gifford Pinchot Task Force) is working to stop mining near Mt. St. Helens and is working with local groups and the Forest Service on Forest and Watershed Policy in Gifford Pinchot. ($2,500) ▶▶ CRAG LAW CENTER is creating engaging materials and films to educate the public about forest fires. ($2,500) ▶▶ COOPER SPUR WILD AND FREE is funding experts to complete the Cooper Spur/ Government Camp Land Exchange to protect the north side of Mt. Hood. ($2,500) ▶▶ FRIENDS OF MT. HOOD is completing a film, Maiden of the Mountain, a tribute to conservationist Kate McCarthy. ($2,500) ▶▶ GREATER HELLS CANYON PRESERVATION COUNCIL is in their eighth year of Wildlife Watchers in Northeastern Oregon.

Biologists and volunteers work to field-verify wildlife corridor conditions, then to integrate data into policy decisions promoting connected wildlands. ($2,500) ▶▶ OREGON NATURAL DESERT ASSOCIATION promotes high desert stewardship, restoration, and public awareness ($2,500) ▶▶ OREGON WILD is working to protect the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument and adding additional areas to the Mt. Hood Wilderness ($2,500) ▶▶ OREGON PHYSICIANS FOR SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY is working on their Power Past Coal campaign against the bulk terminal in Longview, and their Stand Up to Oil coalition against oil by rail facilities, along with issue in the Gorge and elsewhere ($500) The Conservation Committee is planning future events with our grant partners to introduce you to the wonderful stewardship activities they are doing. Many also offer volunteer opportunities.

For more information on Mazama Conservation grants, go to beta.mazamas.org/conservation

MAZAMA OUTINGS More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.

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RESEARCH GRANTS This year the Mazama Research Committee received 21 proposals: 8 standard grant applications ( for faculty and principal investigators) and 13 graduate/undergraduate applications. From this pool of applicants we funded 8 grants totally $17,400. The proposals focus on an diversity of important topics including glaciers, climate change, volcanoes, wildfires, and alpine environments.

STANDARD GRANTS (MAXIMUM GRANT: $3,500):

▶▶ Monitoring Mountain Goat Translocation Efforts in the Washington Cascades by David Wallin of Western Washington University ($3,500) ▶▶ Glacier ice worms: broadening understanding of extremophile evolution, awareness, and conservation in glaciers of the Pacific Northwest by Scott Hotaling of Washington State University ($3,500) ▶▶ Aerial Rephotography of Colorado Glaciers by Andrew Fountain of Portland State University ($3,300)

GRADUATE/UNDERGRADUATE GRANTS (MAXIMUM GRANT: $2,000):

▶▶ Testing the viability of using structure-from-motion photogrammetric surveys to track glacier mass balance and meltwater discharge on the Easton Glacier, Mt. Baker, WA by Elizabeth Kimberly of Western Washington University ($2,000) ▶▶ The impact of mycorrhizal fungi on subalpine meadow encroachment by subalpine fir by Stuart Graham of University of Washington ($1,100) ▶▶ Enhancing Bumble Bee Habitat in the Pacific Northwest Using DNA Metabarcoding Techniques by Katherine Arstingstall of Oregon State University ($2,000) ▶▶ Carbon dioxide and mercury dynamics in East Lake, Newberry Volcano, Oregon by Molly Wagner of Wesleyan University ($1,000) ▶▶ Carbon carrying capacity in the Pacific Northwest: forest resilience to wildfire and climate change by Kristina Bartowitz of University of Idaho ($1,000)

To learn more about the Mazama Research Grant program go to beta.mazamas.org/researchgrants.

TRINITY ALPS HIGH ROUTE TREK: SEP. 8–14 Alternates Only. Join us as we hike a large portion of northern California’s Trinity Alps High Route. This ~35-mile alpine trek circumnavigates the Canyon Creek drainage and includes the summits of up to four named peaks in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The six to eight participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50-mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, up to 10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near zero to almost 5,000 feet. A $100 deposit will be required upon acceptance. Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant Brooke Weeber (bweeber@gmail.com) for more information.

OFF THE BEATEN BACKPACK

Three Fantastic Backpacking Trips for the Discerning Backpacker

by Matt Reeder

S

o you couldn’t get a permit for the Enchantments or the Wonderland Trail? Maybe you’ve done the Timberline Trail several times and want a new challenge? You aren’t alone. Every year I hear from my friends in the outdoor community about the difficulty of securing permits to cherished spots like the Enchantments, and the desire to find backpacking trips that aren’t completely overwhelmed with people or require complicated planning stretching over several days.

Thankfully there are many other places to backpack. Great places! I’ve spent the last several years researching my three hiking guidebooks: Off the Beaten Trail, 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mt. Jefferson Region, and PDX Hiking 365. I’ve had the opportunity to do some truly amazing backpacking expeditions, from short overnighters at nearby lakes to longer treks through remote and forbidding wilderness areas. Presented here are three relatively obscure trips sure to satisfy all of you who can’t or don’t want to backpack the Timberline Trail, the Wonderland Trail, or the Enchantments.

Above: Bull of the Woods Wilderness.

continued on next page JULY 2018 29

BACKPACKING, continued from previous page BIG SLIDE LAKE AND BULL OF THE WOODS

While it isn’t full of the kind of alpine splendor found on Mt. Hood or Mt. Rainier, the Bull of the Woods Wilderness is a peaceful and inviting destination for backpacking, from one-day trips to longer loops that touch all of the highpoints of the area, both literal and figurative. The only issue with visiting this area is that many of the trailheads are at the far end of long, winding gravel roads that test the patience of many drivers. This long but rewarding trek to Big Slide Lake and up to Bull of the Woods is easy to find, easy to follow, and leads hikers to a beautiful lake deep in the wilderness.

Hikers desiring a mountain view can continue 2 miles to the summit of Bull of the Woods, where the view stretches from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters.

Beginning at the trailhead, follow the Dickey Creek Trail on the remains of an abandoned road for a half mile. The trail then descends steeply into Dickey Creek’s deep canyon, leveling out in a classic cathedral forest of ancient Douglas fir. The trail meanders along the valley bottom, passing a pond, until it reaches a crossing of Dickey Creek at about 3.5 miles from the trailhead.

Make your way across the creek, which is generally easy in summer, and begin gaining elevation on the far side. The trail climbs up the forested slopes of Dickey Creek’s upper canyon, crossing a huge talus slope at the base of Big Slide Mountain’s cliffs. Reach a short side trail to Big Slide Lake at a little over 6 miles from the trailhead. Take the short spur trail down to the lake. Big Slide Lake is shallow but beautiful, with a lovely green color and an adorable island in the middle of the lake. The best campsites are on the lake’s west side, where you should be able to find a place of your own with space and privacy.

Above: Big Slide Lake. Photo: Matt Reeder

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DIRECTIONS: ▶▶ From Portland, drive southeast on OR 224 approximately 20 miles to Estacada. ▶▶ From Estacada, drive southeast on OR 224 for approximately 25 miles to the old guard station at Ripplebrook. ▶▶ Just past Ripplebrook OR 224 becomes FR 46. Continue straight on FR 46 for 4.2 miles from Ripplebrook to a junction with FR 63. ▶▶ Turn right onto FR 63, following signs for Bagby Hot Springs. ▶▶ Drive this 2-lane paved road for 3.5 miles to a junction with FR 70, signed for Bagby ▶▶ Hot Springs. Ignore this turnoff and continue straight on FR 63. ▶▶ Drive another 2.1 miles on FR 63 to a junction with FR 6340 on your right. ▶▶ Turn right on this gravel road and drive 0.6 mile to a junction, where you keep straight. ▶▶ Continue on FR 6340 another 2.1 miles to a junction with FR 140 with a sign for the Dickey Creek Trail. Turn left here. ▶▶ Drive this narrow, rocky road for 1 mile to a T-junction. The trailhead is on the right, but the best parking is on the left. There is also room for a couple of cars on the shoulder FR 140 about twenty yards before the junction.

Once you’ve set up camp, take the time to hike 2 miles uphill, turning right at every junction, to the Bull of the Woods Lookout, where the view is magnificent. Some exploration on the summit will reveal different vantages, a historic outhouse, and views down to Big Slide Lake. The lookout tower, no longer used and closed to the public, is in poor shape—use caution when walking along the platform at the tower.

Hikers desiring a longer backpacking trip have many options, but a lack of trail maintenance has made some of these options a less attractive idea. Perhaps the best idea is to continue west from Bull of the Woods to a pass above Pansy Lake, and then descend the Mother Lode Trail 4.5 miles to beautiful Battle Creek Flats, at its confluence with Elk Lake Creek. Making a loop is possible either by hiking up the Elk Lake Creek Trail to Elk Lake and returning via the Bagby Trail and Twin Lakes, or by hiking downstream along Elk Lake Creek and returning via the Welcome Lakes and West Lake Way Trails to Bull of the Woods.

This latter option to Welcome Lakes is among the worst-maintained trails in the area and is not recommended.

Consult a topographic map if you’re planning on making a longer loop here.

Right: Marion Falls in the heart of the Jefferson Wilderness. Far Right: South Cinder Peak and Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Matt Reeder

HEART OF THE JEFF LOOP Hikers looking for a multi-day alternative to the Timberline Trail will find few better options than this multi-day backpack around the south side of the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. As it is impossible to circumnavigate Mt. Jefferson (due to the Warm Springs Reservation, the lack of a trail on the east side, fire damage, and impassible cliffs and gorges, among other things), this circuit hits many of the high points in one of Oregon’s most beautiful wilderness preserves. The time is right so go now—next year a complicated permit system will likely come into effect, making this area much more difficult to visit.

The trek starts at the crowded Marion Lake Trail, climbing gently 1.7 miles to a

fork just before you reach the lake. Both trails go to the lake, but keep left for the shortest and most direct route. At a fork at lake’s edge, keep left and hike along the lake’s north shore. Views stretch across the huge backcountry lake south to Three Fingered Jack. Reach a junction with the Lake of the Woods Trail at 2.5 miles, where you turn left. Follow the Lake of the Woods Trail north to a junction with the Swallow Lake Trail and turn right. This trail passes

by Swallow Lake before climbing steeply to the foot of South Cinder Peak at 8 miles.

Take the time to follow the short spur trail here to the summit of the peak, where

continued on next page JULY 2018 31

BACKPACKING,

continued from previous page the 360 degree view stretches out to the far horizon, from Mt. Hood to the Three Sisters and everything in between. From here, return to the Swallow Lake Trail and reach a four-way junction with the Pacific Crest Trail and Shirley Lake Trail. Cross the PCT and turn onto the Shirley Lake Trail. Hike north 1.5 miles to Carl Lake, your stopping point for the first day of this trek. You’ll find lots of sites at this deep backcountry lake.

From Carl Lake, locate the Cabot Lake Trail heading north and follow it as it seesaws through attractive woods. The trail passes under North Cinder Peak’s cliffs, curves attractively around the Forked Butte lava flow and then passes directly by scenic Forked Buttes as it makes its way towards Mt. Jefferson. The trail descends to small Patsy Lake and then gains elevation once more, finally reaching secluded Table Lake at 4.7 miles from Carl Lake. Make Table Lake your second night stop, and spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful area. While you’re here, be sure

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to locate the continuation of the Cabot Lake Trail and follow it 1.5 miles north to an incredible viewpoint by the cliffs of Bear Butte. Here Mt. Jefferson towers over Hole-inthe-Wall Park, South Cinder Peak and Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Matt Reeder just four miles away. The trail found it, hike west on a trail that threads once continued down to the park but is between a cinder cone and The Table and now lost in blowdown from the B+B fire. then traverses steeply uphill to the crest On day 3, leave Table Lake. You could of the ridge. Once you top out the trail hike all the way back to Carl Lake and becomes faint again, but from here just return the way you came, but this trek is continue west 0.1 mile or so to the PCT. much better as a loop. So hike south from When you find the PCT you’re faced with Table Lake 0.2 mile to a meadow, where another dilemma—do you turn left and a very faint trail cuts off west towards head south to wrap up the loop, or do the Cascade crest. The trail isn’t easy to you turn right to make a longer loop by find, but is worth the trouble. Once you’ve heading into the burned forests west of

the PCT for more lakes and a longer hike? The PCT continues south 4.7 miles to the Shirley Lake-Swallow Lake-PCT junction mentioned above, offering fabulous views and easy hiking.

If you’re up for the longer loop option, turn right at this junction and soon arrive at a junction with the Hunts Creek Trail. Follow this trail as it climbs slightly and arrives at a rocky ledge above beautiful Hunts Cove, with Mt. Jefferson looming just across the valley.

After 1.7 miles, reach a junction with the Lake of the Woods Trail. North leads down into Hunts Cove (a limited-entry permit area), but for the loop, keep left. The Lake of the Woods Trail continues south, soon entering burned forest. You’ll pass Lake of the Woods and finally reach a junction with the Swallow Lake Trail at 9.8 miles from Table Lake. Continue 1.7 miles to Marion Lake. At this point you’ve hiked 11.5 miles on Day 3—but you’re only 2 miles and change from the trailhead. If you’re wiped out, consider camping at this lake and spending the next morning exploring before hiking out. Explorations around the lake reveal fantastic lake shore viewpoints of ThreeFingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson as well as huge and impressive Marion Falls just below the lake. If you’ve got a bit of extra energy you can scramble up the talus slope on the west side of the lake (along the peninsula) to a fantastic viewpoint on top of a rock pile that looks out across the lake to Mt. Jefferson and ThreeFingered Jack. But if you reach Marion Lake and are ready to be done with this loop, follow the trail west of the lake a little over 2 miles to the trailhead.

DIRECTIONS: ▶▶ From Portland, drive south on Interstate 5 to Exit 253 in Salem, signed for Detroit Lake and Bend. Leave the freeway here and turn left onto OR 22. ▶▶ From Salem, drive OR 22 east for 49.2 miles to Detroit. ▶▶ Continue on OR 22 another 16.2 miles to a junction with Marion Road (FR 2255), just opposite the now-closed Marion Forks Restaurant. ▶▶ Turn left here and drive this one-lane paved road for 0.8 mile to the end of pavement.

Continue another 3.7 miles of excellent gravel road to road’s end at the Marion Lake Trailhead. ▶▶ There are many places to park but come early—this is an extremely popular hike and the trailhead is often full by mid-morning on summer weekends. ▶▶ NW Forest Pass Required. A limited-entry permit of some sort will likely be required in 2019.

MT. ADAMS NORTHSIDE TRAVERSE Like Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams features a trail that circumnavigates it. Sort of. The Round The Mountain Trail takes hikers threequarters of the way around Mt. Adams, eventually ending on the far east side of the mountain, deep inside the Yakima Reservation—and from this point hikers must hike off-trail through forbidding terrain to complete the loop at Bird Creek Meadows. It is a fun adventure but a difficult one—and with Bird Creek Meadows closed this year, scratch it off your to-do list.

Thankfully, much of the finest terrain on Mt. Adams is open and gorgeous, and this traverse is probably the nicest backpacking trip in the area. The best place to start, in spite of lousy road access, is the Killen Creek Trailhead.

Here you avoid the ubiquitous fire damage found further south and west on Mt. Adams, opting instead to just hike straight into wondrous alpine terrain on the north side of the mountain. It’s just all good here, almost right from the start. Begin on the Killen Creek Trail and hike steeply uphill on a trail that charges up the hillside. Thankfully the bad times don’t last long, and soon you’ll begin traversing glorious wildflower meadows with views south to the heavily glaciated north side of Mt. Adams. Meet the PCT (which here is also the Round the Mountain Trail)

at a junction at 3 miles. The longer trip turns left here, to continue heading east around Mt. Adams. If you’re looking for a spectacular detour or a closer place to camp, turn right and immediately locate the spur trail to High Camp 100 feet to your right. Turn left here and climb this steep trail uphill 1 mile to High Camp, a plateau at nearly 7,000 feet of elevation, 4 miles from the Killen Creek Trailhead. This is among the most spectacular places on Mt. Adams, at the northern foot of the mountain near the terminus of the massive Adams Glacier.

Views stretch north to Mt. Rainier and the Goat Rocks. There are plenty of campsites dotted throughout the plateau—just expect very cold nights, even in summer. If you’re just stopping by, return to the PCT and head east to continue hiking around Mt. Adams.

In a little under a mile, the trail crosses Killen Creek just above a cascading waterfall and passes a glade I lovingly refer to as “Perfection Park”—as in, it couldn’t possibly get better than this. The area is a popular camping spot for folks here, but with some luck you may find a site if you decide you don’t want to go any further.

If you’re continuing, follow the PCT until you meet a junction with the Highline Trail (another name for the

continued on next page

Foggy Flats. Photo: Matt Reeder

JULY 2018 33

BACKPACKING, continued from previous page Round the Mountain Trail). Keep right and hike another 1.8 miles to a junction with the Muddy Meadows Trail. Keep right again and continue about a mile to Foggy Flat, a huge meadow on the northeast side of Mt. Adams. There are a few campsites scattered around the flat, which features a view of the top half of Mt. Adams. For the good stuff, continue on the Highline Trail a short ways past Foggy Flat until the trail leaves both meadow and forest, arriving at the lava flows and barren plains on the northeast side of Mt. Adams. There are a few good campsites here, and chances are you won’t have much competition for them. At this point you’re over 7 miles from the Killen Creek Trailhead, so it’s probably a good idea to stop here. Once you’ve set up camp, grab your pack and some water and continue exploring south along the barren plains. The views of Mt. Adams and its glaciers are tremendous, and continuous—this is truly a special place. The trail does continue several more miles south to Devil’s Garden and eventually Avalanche Valley, two of the most amazing places on Mt. Adams—but the creek crossings are difficult, and camping is questionable once you reach the Yakima Reservation. You’ve got options, and all of them are great.

If you’re looking for a longer backpacking trip, start further south on Mt. Adams. There are numerous trails that reach the Round the Mountain Trail, from the South Climb Trailhead on the south side of the mountain to the Divide Camp Trail just southeast of the Killen Creek Trailhead. Many of these feature easier road access than does Killen Creek, and offer hikers the chance to turn a short trip into a much longer trip. In the absence of a loop trail (at least this year), the best option would be to set up a car shuttle somewhere along the way and hike the circuit one way from south to north.

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Mt. Adams rugged north side. Photo: Matt Reeder

DIRECTIONS: ▶▶ From Portland, drive east on Interstate 84 to Hood River. ▶▶ At Exit 64 on I-84, leave the freeway and reach a junction at the end of the off-ramp. ▶▶ Turn left and drive to the toll bridge over the Columbia River. Pay the $2 toll and cross the river. ▶▶ At the far end of the bridge on the Washington side, turn left on WA 14. ▶▶ Drive 1.5 miles west on WA 14 to a junction with WA 141 ALT, just before a bridge over the White Salmon River. Turn right here. ▶▶ Drive 2.2 miles to a junction with WA 141. Turn left here. ▶▶ Drive 18.9 miles to the small town of Trout Lake. ▶▶ Continue straight on what is now Mt Adams Road (FR 23) for 1.5 miles to a junction. ▶▶ Keep left (right leads to the south and east sides of Mt. Adams) to stay on FR 23. ▶▶ Drive 23 miles, ignoring all side roads along the way, to a junction with FR 2329 near Takhlakh Lake. The last several miles of this road are gravel. ▶▶ Turn right on FR 2329, following signs for Takhlakh Lake. ▶▶ Drive 1.5 miles to Takhlakh Lake, ignoring signs for Olallie Lake along the way. ▶▶ Continue past Takhlakh Lake, where FR 2329 worsens into a rough, rutted, potholed road that requires patience. ▶▶ Drive 1.9 miles beyond Takhlakh Lake to the Divide Camp Trail on your right. ▶▶ Continue 2.4 increasingly rough miles to the Killen Creek Trailhead on your right.

SAYING GOODBYE MARGARET J. GAUTHIER JUNE 5, 1956 – MAY 9, 2018 Peg Gauthier’s introduction to the Mazamas was a frigid late fall slog through waist-deep snow on the Benson Plateau.

The group had to turn back, but Peg sent the leader a warm thank you email. Her first Outing was the 2011 Colorado 14ers: lengthy approaches with 5000-feet elevation gain up Mt. Harvard, Mt. Elbrus, Huron Peak and Longs Peak. The physical stamina required for the “14ers” was no problem for Peg – she was famous for never breaking a sweat -- facing down her fear of exposure was another matter. She stepped up to that challenge like she ran her marathons: strong and steady. Three years later, and 12 days after her first course of chemotherapy, Peg would run the entire Portland Marathon.

She was one of the strongest athletes to join the Mazamas. She was also one of the easiest to spend time with, navigating every obstacle on the trail with her good grace and quick wit.

Peg grew up in Corning, Iowa. Her father edited the local newspaper and gave Peg her love of the written word. (Her book group was going on 30 years when Peg left us.) She studied education at Northwest Missouri State University, and received her Master’s at the University of Missouri. Peg moved to Oregon in the early ‘80s and decided that physical therapy was a better fit with her athleticism than teaching. She retooled her education at Eastern Washington University and spent most of her career as a physical therapist at Providence Willamette Falls Medical Center.

It was also in Oregon that Peg fell in love with Brittany spaniels. She racked up thousands of road miles transporting dogs for the National Brittany Rescue and Adoption Network. A long line of Brits (Bonnie, Mister, Clairie, Cotton and Mac) became part of Peg’s family because, as she ROGER GARRETT Roger Garrett (1941–2018) joined the Mazamas in 1981 after taking completing Basic Climbing School classes with his wife in 1979. Over the years he climbed twenty mountains with the Mazamas and enjoyed hiking, skiing, and backpacking with his wife.

put it, “I have a foster failure rate of 100 percent.” Peg and her “Pack” made new friends as they walked up to Mt. Tabor, many folks stopping to comment on Clairie in her dog stroller.

Peg’s lifelong love of hiking and camping had given her plenty of qualifying peaks; she chose her 1992 climb of Mt. Hood to join the Mazamas in 2010. By this time, Peg had completed more than 40 marathons and ultramarathons ( from 30 to 50 miles), including the Boston and a commemorative Olympic marathon in Athens, Greece. She breezed through BCEP in 2013 and summited Mt. Hood with her group that May. A month later, she celebrated her birthday with Mazama friends on the summit of Unicorn (with extra-pointy party hats).

Spring of 2014 found Peg applying for Mazama climbs and ramping up her running. In May she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer and started another type of marathon. Peg started chemo in early July and convinced her doctors that running through the post-chemo days was the key to her recovery. She reworked her marathon plan into intervals of walking and running.

On October 4, 2014, Peg felt great running and finished the 26.2 miles, achieving her goal of running 20 Portland Marathons in 30 years.

The Ovarian Cancer Alliance of Oregon and SW Washington convinced Peg to be a face of their Super Hero, Trust Your Gut campaign. The image of Super Hero Peg, in her super hero suit and cape, was plastered on buses and Max trains. Peg said she was “a little embarrassed, also honored and proud.”

She climbed Mt. St. Helen’s on Mother’s Day 2015 and did not take off a layer (never broke a sweat) until she reached the summit ROBERT SCHUBERT Robert Schubert (1925–2018) joined the Mazamas in 1961 and was he was a life member. As a Mazama, Bob climbed Mounts Hood, South Sister, Adams, St. Helens, and Longs Peak in Colorado.

and pulled open her jacket to reveal her Super Hero T-shirt.

Two of Peg’s favorite adventures were hiking in Bhutan and volunteering her physical therapy skills in Vietnam; she said her trip to Iditarod 2016 with the Mazamas was right up there with them. Peg was in dog-lover bliss cheering on the sled teams.

She ran 12-mile sprints herself, under full view of pink-toned Denali. Peg’s last climb with the Mazamas was Mt. Shasta in summer of ’16.

Peg Gauthier was an introvert with mountains of friends from all the sides of her life. Mazama members ran with Peg, walked their dogs with hers, lifted IPAs with her at brew pubs; we spent summer evening on her welcoming porch, and even rode shotgun on Brittany rescue trips. But most of all, we will miss our time with Peg on the trail. Yes, she had the resolve of a professional athlete.

She was also one of the most easygoing, companionable, warmhearted people we have ever known. Peg left us far too soon.

ALEX EDWARD Alex Edward (1989–2018) joined the Mazamas in 2018. Alex was a recent BCEP grad with an amazing zest for life and adventure. While on a private climb of Mt. Hood in late May 2018 he suffered a fatal fall. While his time in the Mazamas was brief, he will be missed.

JULY 2018 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A2 Jul 01 (Sun) Wind Mountain Ken Park kjpark96@ gmail.com. The Wind Mountain hike is a unmaintained but fairly well-conditioned trail to the summit of Wind Mountain, a 1907 foot cinder cone in the Columbia River Gorge just west of Dog Mountain in Southwest Washington. 2.7 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 94, Gateway 8 a.m.

(GH)MU HK A2 Jul 03 (Tue) Rodney Falls & Beacon Rock Jim Selby 828508-5094. Meet near the elevators at Gateway, counting on it being a light day for parking. We go first to Rodney Falls via the Hamilton Mountain trail, return to the parking area, then go to Beacon Rock. Have lunch at the top of Beacon, then return to cars, back to Gateway by 2:30 p.m. Incredible vistas and waterfalls. Bring a Washington Discover Pass if you have one. 5.5 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 70, StatePark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)MU HK B2 Jul 05 (Thu) Red Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Indian Heaven, hike the PCT from Crest Camp to Indian Racetrack, then steeply uphill to this former lookout site. Multi-mountain vistas. 9.6 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 130, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Jul 06 (Fri) Table Mountain Loop via Heartbreak Ridge Ken Park kjpark96@gmail.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

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com. We begin on trail easements through private forest land located on the hummocky terrain of the historic Bonneville Landslide, passing through clear cuts to Gillette Lake before crossing Greenleaf Cr. The grade steepens until you arrive at the base of Table Mountain.

Here, you ascend to the summit via the aptly named Heartbreak Ridge trail. 16 mi., 4,300 ft., Drive 84, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH)MU HK B2 Jul 07 (Sat) Soda Lakes from Mineral Springs Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. This is a steep wooded trail to a beautiful lake in the Gifford Pinchot wilderness. 12 mi., 2,880 ft., Drive 140, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK B2 Jul 08 (Sun) Tractor Junction via Coldwater Lake (W) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. This hike is still a blast! Wilderness—Limited 12. Only a generation old, 160-foot deep Coldwater Lake is one of the spectacular birth children of Mt. Saint Helens. We will hike the entire way around Coldwater Lake. 9.5 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 185, TH, 99th Street Transit Center (Vancouver) 8 a.m. MU

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit beta.mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders.

Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI– Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MT. TABOR STREET RAMBLES: WEDNESDAYS Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazama Mountaineering Center 503-227-2345 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: beta.mazamas.org/AYM Hood. This hike along scenic Cold Spring Creek has been a traditional trek for families. Most of the hike is in the shade 4.4 mi., 440 ft., Drive 136, MMC 9 a.m. (WF,MH)MU HK C2 Jul 11 (Wed) Jefferson Park, via South Breitenbush Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Exploratory. Quiet sometimes steep and rocky approach to this epic area at the foot of Mt. Jefferson 12.4 mi., 3,500 ft., Drive 180, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(AR)

HK A2 Jul 10 (Tue) Tamanawas Falls (Sherwood CG) Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Tamanawas Falls forms a broad curtain where Cold Spring Creek thunders over a 150? lava cliff near the eastern base of Mt.

HK C2.5 Jul 13 (Fri) Mt. Mitchell from North Siouxon Creek From the back door! William O’Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com moo. This is hiking Mt. Mitchell starting from the North Siouxon Creek TH. This

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P

and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for

will be an exploratory hike and a possible bushwhack part of the way up. There is the Black Hole waterfall along the way and at the top of Mt. Mitchell great views of the south side of Mt. St. Helens and the Swift Reservoir below. You need to be in very good physical condition to participate in this hike. There is logging going on near the northern part of trail. As long as the company is not yarding logs on the trail we are allowed to pass through. So we will be playing it by ear on this hike! 17 mi., 3,000 ft., Drive 84, TH, Salmon Creek Park & Ride Vancouver, WA 7 a.m. (WF)MU

hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK A1.5 Jul 14 (Sat) Eight Mile Creek Loop Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503665-6778 . Located on Mt Hood’s east side, this lovely loop ascends through ponderosa pines to nice views of Mt Hood and the Tygh Valley. Trail breaks at both Perry Point and Five Mile Butte Lookout. No dogs. 7.8 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 170, TH, Lewis & Clark - near toilets 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 14 (Sat) Moulton Falls Jim Selby 828-508-5094. After a brief hike at Lucia Falls on the way to Moulton Falls we will enjoy the great Moulton Falls trail with three waterfalls and a stunning arch bridge. Nearly always see an eagle or two and wildflowers.

We will eat lunch at the Yacolt Creek Falls Chelatchie Prairie RR station with a steam train coming through, then return to our cars. 6 mi., 260 ft., Drive 60, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF)MU HK C2 Jul 14 (Sat) Huckleberry Mt. via Boulder Ridge David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. This hike starts from the BLM Wildwood Recreation Area. We will follow the Boulder Ridge trail up to a 3-4 mountain viewpoint. The trail is rocky at the beginning, including many switchback and several small stream crossings. After that, just a nice, forest trail passing though stands of Hemlocks, bear grass and Rhododendrons. $5 parking pass (BLM). Contact leader to sign up. 10.6 mi., 3,450 ft., Drive 75, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH,WO) HK B2 Jul 15 (Sun) Wood Lake— Sawtooth Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Indian Heaven Area Hike with great views of Mt. Adams 9 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 160, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) HK C2 Jul 16 (Mon) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35 (W) Gary Riggs gary.riggs@outlook.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. This hike begins with the Gumjuwac Trail on Hwy 35, with switchbacks up to Gumjuwac Saddle. Wildflowers near the summit, and front row view of Mt. Hood. Email me to secure a spot on this hike. 10.4 mi., 2,975 ft., Drive 136, MMC 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH) HK A1.5 Jul 17 (Tue) Sleeping Beauty Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

Hike through forest to rocky crag with spectacular views of Mts. Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and Rainier 3.2 mi., 1,410 ft., Drive 112, TH, MMC 9 a.m. (AR,GH)MU

HK B2 Jul 18 (Wed) Grizzly Peak via Pamelia Lake Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Grizzly Peak, high above Pamelia Lake has outstanding views of Mt Jefferson.

10 mi., 2700 ft., Drive 200, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 20 (Fri) Paradise Park Eric Hall 503-867-4738 or erichall@q.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. We will start our hike at 6000 feet. Heading west from Timberline Lodge, we will do some ups, do some downs, a couple of zigs, a couple of zags, a stream crossing or two, and arrive at the sprawling alpine meadows of Paradise Park. 12.1 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 112, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,AR,MH,WO) HK B2 Jul 21 (Sat) Cape Horn Brett Nair 503-847-9550. This is a new trail and one of the closest Gorge trails to the Portland-Vancouver metro area. It features gorgeous views, rocky crags, streams and two waterfalls. The trail is very well signed. There are both metal stakes and wooden signs at each junction. 7.1 mi., 1,350 ft., Drive 55, Gateway 8 a.m. MU (WF)MU HK B2 Jul 22 (Sun) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Great views, wildflowers. Silver Star is a bald, exposed peak in Skamania County in Southwest Washington. It is one of the most prominent peaks visible on the northeastern horizon in Portland, and from places all over the Columbia River Gorge. 7.5 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 70, Fisher 8 a.m. MU DH A2 Jul 24 (Tue) Warrior Rock/Sauvie Island Don McCoy donald1020@aol.com, 503-709-9306.

Take a quiet, flat stroll out to the northern tip of Sauvie Island. You will be traveling through a state wildlife refuge and visiting the small Warrior Rock Light. Dogs will need to be on a leash. An ODFW pass will be needed and can be purchased at the Cracker Barrel Store. 6.8 mi., 10 ft., Drive 30, TH, Cracker Barrel Store, 15005 NW Sauvie Island Road 9 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 24 (Tue) Pre Hike to the Summit Hikes—Cooper Spur Mamiko Okada mamiko927@hotmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Pre Hike to the Summit Hikes! High Altitude training hike. From Cooper Spur Ski Resort at 3,800 ft., Tilly Jane Trail to Top of Cooper Spur Trail at 8,500 ft. 11 mi., 4,711 ft., Drive 180, TH, MMC 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 Jul 25 (Wed) Mt. Mitchell via Sugarloaf Trail Gary Riggs gary.riggs@outlook.com. Join me on this interesting new way up Mt. Mitchell. This is an old, almost abandoned trail that steadily traverses up the west side of the mountain to intersect with the Sugarloaf Trail. If it’s a clear day, we’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view of Mt. St. Helens.

Bring poles, as the beginning part of the trail is very steep. There is also a crossing of a talus slope. 7.5 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 140, MMC 8 a.m. (AR)MU HK A2 Jul 27 (Fri) Loowit Falls (Windy Ridge) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Hike to an area below the crater caused by the blast! In the heart of the Mt. St. Helens blast zone, the hike takes you through a dynamic, moon-like landscape of pumice planes, lava ridges, and rocky gash-like river channels, sweeping views of Mount St. Helens, and Spirit Lake. In spring and early summer, displays of lupine, Indian paintbrush, and pearly everlasting add unexpected color. In the late summer, families of mountain goats and herds of elk 8.8 mi., 800 ft., Drive 226, TH, 99th Street Transit Center (Vancouver) 8 a.m.

(AR)MU HK C2 Jul 28 (Sat) Devils Peak Lookout via Cool Creek. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. This hike offers an excellent work out. We will hike up the Cool Creek trail to the old fire lookout. Have lunch, explore the lookout and enjoy the views before hiking back down.

Views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams and Mt. Jefferson, if weather permits.

Trekking poles a plus. Contact leader to sign up. 8.2 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 84, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(AR,MH)

HK A1.5 Jul 29 (Sun) Round Lake via Lacamas Creek Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Enjoy a leisurely evening hike in woods and trails that wander all over and include a powerful stream, cute lake, several waterfalls, and unusual flowers. We will be on the least crowded trails in this park. Most of the time you will not realize you are in the middle of Camas, Washington. Can be hiked in the rain just fine! 5.5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 30, Gateway 4 p.m. (WF)MU HK C2 Jul 29 (Sun) Cascade Head-Harts Cove Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Wonderful Iconic Oregon hike above the beach.

Sometime we find an Elk Herd in residence. This is one of the truly amazing places on the Oregon Coast. It has spectacular views and his home to an endangered species of butterfly and at least two rare plants. 12.4 mi., 2,600 ft., Drive 182, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 30 (Mon) Saddle Mountain Sherry Bourdin 503314-2911. Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to the top of a double-peaked summit of basalt.

The upper part of the mountain is decorated with vast steep wildflower meadows in summer.

5.2 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 96, TH, Target/185th 7:30 a.m. (AR) HK C1.5 Jul 31 (Tue) Cook Hill Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Hike through hanging meadows of flowers and be rewarded with views of Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens. 6 mi., 3,000 ft., Drive 98, TH, MMC 9 a.m. (AR,GH)MU

ONLINE HIKE SIGN UP IS COMING! Get ready for the hike registration moving online by creating your profile on the Mazama website.

Go to beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted and read the FULL directions. The ONLY trick is for those of you who are already Mazama members, you want to make sure to create your account using the email address we already have on file for you. If you don’t know what email address that is, just drop us a line at beta@mazamas.org and we will look it up for you.

Add a photo to your profile, tell us a bit about yourself, sign the liability waiver, and, if you would like to, save a credit card to your account. You’ll be all ready to go when we launch the online hike feature!

JULY 2018 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, July 19. All meetings begin at 5 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 6:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 5 p.m. on Tuesday, June 15. Chris reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. A voice vote approved the agenda following a motion to add a discussion about Advanced Snow and Ice. Secretary Traci Manning asked for and received approval for the minutes from the May meeting. In the Treasurer’s Report, Marty Scott noted that at the end of April total operating revenue is $750,066 and total operating expenses are $1,055,373.

Current total assets are $1,151.311. Income and expenses are both tracking under projections, at 10 percent and 11 percent respectively. Total membership as of the end of May 2018 stands at 3,466.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis reviewed upcoming events. Adventure WILD! Day Camp started on June 18 and is full for the summer. Intermediate Climbing School Info Night is coming up on June 25.

The Mazamas will host the first of three Volunteer Appreciation Nights on July 11 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Others will follow on October 10 and January 9.

In external reporting, Lee noted progress in hiring for the grant-funded Stewardship Coordinator position. In his update on advocacy, he pointed out that the focus is currently on drafting and submitting several bills ahead of the annual Oregon Legislative Day in September. Lee mentioned that the Oregon Outdoors Coalition is presently focused on water sports and combating a proposed personal watercraft licensing fee.

Lee shared with the council his concerns about the Gifford Pinchot National Forest’s fee-for-use proposal. Similar fees, when enacted on Mount St. Helens, resulted in an 80 percent decline of Mazama climbs on the mountain. Our regional and national partners are watching the issue; the outcome could have widespread and dramatic impacts on access to National Forests across the nation. Lee cautioned that this is a hot topic that could turn serious

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quickly and impact the Mazamas for years to come. Work continues on the UIAA Mountain Qualification Label project with the American Alpine Club. The Alpine 5 met in June to discuss licensing and certifications related to these national climbing education standards. Lee concluded his report with a quick update on the Mazama Lodge renovation funding plan and a quick review of the draft change management recommendations.

President Kruell then introduced Nick Viele. Nick was on hand to help facilitate discussions on three topics: Mazama mission alignment; leadership, roles, and responsibilities; and organizational resource allocations. Discussions at the spring retreat identified all three as pressing issues.

Nick kicked off the debate about mission alignment by reviewing what makes a good mission statement and the proposed mission statement. The subsequent lengthy discussion highlighted several concepts and terms that all the board members agreed upon. The council’s work on the mission statement included the ASI discussion added to the agenda. The board tasked the Marketing and Communication Department, along with board liaisons, with drafting two to three statements for review at the July meeting.

Nick then engaged the board in a brief discussion on the current roles and responsibilities of board members and the executive director. From there the conversation turned to identify and work towards solving issues about the roles and responsibilities of staff, committees, and committee chairs within the department structure. The crux of the problem lies in who makes decisions where and when? The discussion helped identify several challenges within the management structure. The board asked Lee to revise the existing organizational chart and report back at the July meeting.

For the third and final discussion topic, Lee and Sarah Bradham, Marketing and Communications Director, gave a brief presentation to the board about existing staff position funding. Broken down by position, department, and project the graphs showed the percentage of funding from grants, dues, fees, and the Mazamas Foundation. Nick facilitated a discussion aimed at improving the boards’ understanding of the funding structure. The conversation ended with President Kruell asking for the drafting of a one page summary for the July meeting.

The public part of the meeting ended with a presentation by Nominating Committee Chair John Rettig. The committee has identified five potential candidates for the upcoming election. John walked the board through the committee’s process and noted that, as requested, each nominee has prior nonprofit experience and skills that align with the Mazamas2020 strategic plan.

The meeting then adjourned into Executive Session. No members chose to speak during the member comment period.

The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, July 19, at 4 p.m.

2018 Council Candidates Judith Baker Joe Eberhardt Walter Keutel Josh Townsley Robin Wilcox 2018 Nominating Committee Candidates George Cummings Sue Dimin Joan Zuber

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2018 marks the 6th year of the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) and this year will be better than ever!

Look for more details and tickets on Sept. 1, 2018 at portlandalpinefest.org.

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