Mazama November Bulletin

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

November/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 11

nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high

Portland Alpine Fest, p. 5 Time on Thomson, p. 8 Memoir Writing Workshop, p. 11 Calm Your Tetons, p. 16

Contact Us

November 2014 Cover: Karin Mullendorf demonstrates good ice climbing techniques during ASI 2014.

Photo: Tyler Bax.

p. 4

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon— Monday Noon

Mazama Staff

Portland Alpine Festival Schedule

Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org)

p.

7

Evening Programs

p. 10

Nordic Ski School

Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org)

p. 24 8

Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org)

Time on Thomson

Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)

p. 13

Memoir Writing Workshop

p. 14

p. 16

p. 19

Mazama Lodge Notes

Tetons

p. 24

Whitman College

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

31 Peaks

Climb Leader Profile: Chris Kruell

p. 25

Ice Skill Builder

p. 20

MONTHLY COLUMNS

Upcoming Events, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Outings, p. 11 Successful Climbers, p. 12 Classics, p. 18 Membership Report, p. 21 20s & 30s, p. 21 Families, p. 22 Trail Trips, p. 28 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org).

Advertising: (mazama.ads@ mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Executive Director’s Report The Mazamas was formed at a stormy meeting on the top of Mt. Hood in the summer of 1894. The story goes that just six years earlier many of those same people formed the Oregon Alpine Club (OAC) in the image of, or inspired by, the original Alpine Club in Britain—but that the OAC very quickly strayed from its original purpose, stopped focusing on mountaineering and ultimately failed.

Frustrated by this situation, and with a deeper understanding of purpose and a passion for mountaineering, our founders created the Mazamas.

Our founders understood a few things that we still know today. They saw a great purpose in exploring, enjoying and protecting the mountains and they understood that the primary interest of the Mazamas was in mountaineering. They inherently knew the value of exploring the alpine environment and of having shared experiences in the mountains.

The Mazamas is one of the most active alpine clubs in the country, we run the largest centralized mountaineering training school in North America and have the best rate of member retention of any alpine club we know. We do an extraordinary job of getting lots of people outside in the mountains, as we have for over a century.

Today, the Mazamas is in a growth phase, with membership higher than it has ever been.

What we do at the Mazamas is teach classes; organize activities and events; sponsor research, conservation, advocacy and alpine exploration. I was reminded recently by my friend and long-time climb leader Dick Miller that what matters most and what we need to be communicating is why we do all of these things. Why do the Mazamas exist? What is the purpose of our work and why does it matter?

For some of us that have been involved with the Mazamas for many years, the answer is deeply known but still difficult to articulate. The age old question of why people climb mountains is age old for a reason—it’s a tough question to answer! And as much as we respect him, George Mallory’s answer of “because it’s there” leaves a lot on the table.

I think it’s hard for a lot of us to answer why we do what we do at Mazamas because

it’s all knotted up in complex experiences, personal relationships and values built over many years together in the mountains.

Luckily, I had a climb scheduled recently up near Washington Pass and was able to spend some time sitting on top of Lexington Tower after a great climb on a beautiful fall day.

Sitting there with a couple of old Mazama friends (and a new one!) I tried to unwrap the answer.

Every time I reach a summit I recall Terry Cone—another longtime climb leader at Mazamas—saying that it’s really all about the summit. Our typical group priority list of safety first, then fun, then the summit misses the point. Safety and fun are critically important to having a good quality experience and returning home on time, but what gets us out of our sleeping bags on a cold morning at 3 a.m. isn’t the prospect of fun, it’s the desire to get to the summit—to reach our goal.

Overcoming challenges, seeing extraordinary vistas, habitat, flora and fauna are all elemental to the mountaineering experience, but there remains more to understand. No less than John Muir encouraged future generations to go to the mountains to “seek their good tidings” but still there is more to mountaineering. This is because summiting a mountain under your own power after months or years of training creates a uniquely powerful, complex and enriching moment, sometimes just a few seconds and sometimes several minutes, but a moment nonetheless where we can quietly consider the vast beauty of our world, our place in it and who we are.

These summit moments inspire us and enrich our lives in a lasting way, like rare gems that cannot be taken away. Gems that are faceted with wind and sun, ice and rocks, with friends and hard-won achievement, beauty and certainly joy. Dreaming of and sharing these complex moments of experience with others is the exercise that bonds our community. Understanding the value of these moments gets us much closer to understanding why the Mazamas exist and what we’re working for. These moments are what get people ‘hooked’ on mountaineering and create a lasting bond between people and the mountain environment.

Interestingly, we’re not actually in the

business of guiding at the Mazamas. Every class or trip we organize is about teaching and sharing. When people call us asking if we will take them up Mt. Hood our answer is typically, no. What we do say though is that we will teach you how to climb, and once you’re ready—you can come climb Mt. Hood with us. We don’t want to just take you up a mountain, we want to teach you how and inspire you to enjoy and protect the mountains throughout your lifetime.

At the Mazamas, we help people learn how to find inspiration in the mountains, how to harness our natural desire to explore the world or see what’s over that next hill, and ultimately how to create these summit experiences. Through our programs you can learn how to take your dream of climbing a mountain and refine it into a set of goals, learn the skills you need to attain your goals and find the people that will need to help you reach your goal. Those skills and those experiences truly change people for the better. Standing on a summit we realize that we’re capable of refining our dreams into attainable goals and reaching them, that we’re truly capable of doing great things. It’s a joyful and empowering experience!

The Mazamas exists to promote mountaineering because we love the mountains, we want to share these summit experiences with everyone and create an active and strong community to care for and steward the mountain environment. Our vision statement of “everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains” is, in my opinion, exactly right.

Fittingly, this week, on Saturday, Nov. 8, the Mazamas are hosting the Summit, which is the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Fest. We host and organize this event in an effort to invite the entire community to come together, to share stories, to celebrate the mountains and to be inspired together. The Summit is our biggest event of the year. It’s the best time and place for you to connect with your fellow Mazamas, climbers, hikers and skiers alike. We hope we’ll see you there!

Lee Davis, Executive Director

November/2014—3

Movies. Presentations. Top Athletes. Stories of adventure & survival. Gear.

Competition. And so much more! Six days of amazing experiences just waiting to be had. Get your tickets today! portlandalpinefest.org Monday, Nov. 3 • Veterans Adventure Films, 7 p.m. at the MMC

Tuesday, Nov. 4 • Clinic: John Frieh, Climbing Nutrition (B,I,A): 2-5 p.m. at the MMC • Presentation: John Frieh “No Rest for the Wicked,” 7 p.m. at the MMC

Wednesday, Nov. 5 • • • • •

Clinic: Aaron Mulkey, Ice Climbing 101 (B): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Seminar: Libby Sauter, Yosemite Trip Planning (B,I,A): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Seminar: John Frieh, Training for Weekend Warriors (B,I,A): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC Clinic: Libby Sauter, Big Wall Climbing (I,A): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC Presentation: Graham Zimmerman “Explorations in Alaska” 7 p.m. at the MMC;

Thursday, Nov. 6 • Clinic: Graham Zimmerman, High Angle Rescue (I,A): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC • Clinic: Libby Sauter, Women’s Technique: Climbing Efficiently (B,I,A): 8–11 a.m. at The Source • Seminar: John Frieh, Planning an Alaskan Expedition (B,I,A): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC • Seminar: Aaron Mulkey, Type 3 Fun: Extreme Alpinism (I,A): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC • Clinic: Graham Zimmerman, Mixed Climbing & Dry-Tooling (I,A): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC • Presentation: Libby Sauter “Jungle Wall-Fare” 7 p.m. at the MMC

Friday, Nov. 7 • • • • • •

Clinic: Aaron Mulkey, Mixed Climbing & Dry Tooling (I,A): 8–11 a.m. at MMC Clinic: Libby Sauter, Intro to Slacklining (B): 8–11 a.m. at The Source Seminar: Graham Zimmerman, Climbing Without Beta (I,A): 8–11 a.m. at the MMC Seminar: Aaron Mulkey, Climbing Communications (B,I,A): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC Clinic: Graham Zimmerman, Ice Climbing 101 (B): 2–5 p.m. at the MMC Movie Night: Aaron Mulkey premieres “The Pursuit,” 7 p.m. at the MMC

Saturday, Nov. 8 • Portland Ice Comp at PRG: 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

• THE SUMMIT at the Oregon Convention Center: Starts at 5:30 p.m.

Thank you to our wonderful sponsors & partners.

4 —Mazama Bulletin

Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Publications Committee

Trail Tending Task Force

Wednesday, Nov. 5 at 7 p.m.

Thursday, Nov. 20 at 7 p.m.

Our Publications Committee is responsible for the Mazama Bulletin, the Annual and the Membership Directory each year. It’s not only Mazama members who see and read these publications, but potential new members as well. We could use a few new volunteers to help out with editing, proofreading and contributing new ideas to keep our publications creative and inspiring. Join us in our quest to keep improving our publications, which are the face of the Mazamas. Come to a first Wednesday of the month meeting to find out more.

Calling all users and lovers of trails: help us rejuvenate the Mazama trail tending tradition.

For years the Mazamas built, maintained and improved hiking and climbing trails in our area, but in recent years we have fallen short! If you have experience building or tending trails, or would like to gain it, join us for an evening of brainstorming on how we can rebuild this program.

Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org, for more info.

Youth Outreach Committee

Ongoing

Monday, Nov. 10 at 7 p.m.

The Youth Outreach Committee is a new Mazama committee designed to create programs for and reach out to kids who wouldn’t otherwise get the opportunity to learn about and play in the mountains. The committee will institutionalize recent pilot programs; develop new programs and partnerships; and research funding sources to sustain these programs. Join us for a kickoff meeting on Monday, Nov. 10 at 7 p.m. at the MMC. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org, with questions or to get more information.

Classic Mazamas Transportation Coordinator Classic Mazamas is looking for a Transportation Coordinator.

This position is about making connections—using the phone, using email, consulting the internet—to ensure that everyone who wants to participate in our activities is able to. The ideal volunteer will eventually be a master of public transportation options, routes and road conditions, etc.; and will also know who has transportation and who needs it. If you are a logistics master, consider becoming our Transportation Coordinator!

Contact Lanning Russell, lanning616@gmail.com.

Used Equipment Sale Coordinators Ongoing Where do you go to get your gently-used outdoor gear? The Mazama Used Equipment Sale, of course! This sale happens each year thanks to the dedication of many volunteers, led by a team of coordinators. If you have experience and enthusiasm for putting on events, consider becoming a UES coordinator.

Contact Trail Trips Committee Co-Chairs if you are interested, Regis Krug (regis_krug@mentor. com) or Terry Lawson (lawson. terry@gmail.com)

Education Committee Skill Builder Coordinator Ongoing The Mazama Education Committee oversees our educational programs, including the bite-sized classes we call Skillbuilders. The committee seeks a volunteer to work specifically on the coordination of our skillbuilder classes; both to ensure that existing skill-builders are implemented, and to compile requests for and support the development of new skillbuilders. If interested, please contact Education Committee Chair Marty Scott, education@ mazamas.org.

Families Hike Leaders Ongoing The Mazama Families Committee is looking for hike leaders-you may be a current hike leader or be totally new, we will train you! Family hike leaders should be enthusiastic about working with kids, and must be willing to obtain a basic first aid certification and pass a background check. Contact Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org.

MFA Weekend Help Sat./Sun. Nov. 8–9 Help us wrap up the 2014 Fall MFA by heading up to the Lodge for a weekend of fun! We need a group of MFA grads to make the weekend scenarios and testing a success. Come for one day or both; meals are included and a Saturday overnight is included for those who can help both days.

Contact the First Aid Committee to sign up or ask questions, mazama.firstaid@mazamas.org.

503.684.9698

November/2014—5

Congratulations Ania Wiktorowicz on your final provisional lead!

Ania Wiktorowicz just after she completed her last provision climb of Castle Dome on Oct. 11. Left to right: Dana Tofell, Ania, Ben Grandy, Alex Lockhard. Photo by Darrell Weston.

Thank You! I am honored and excited to have the opportunity to serve on the Executive Council.

Sunny Freeman

Real Estate Broker Mobile: 503-970-1501 Office: 503-675-8264 Fax: 503-675-8268 sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

6 —Mazama Bulletin

Evening Travel Programs Welcome to the Mazama 2014–2015 season of evening programs. Our Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Dave Groudle, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell and Ric Russell.

Explorations in Alaska—Portland Alpine Festival Wednesday, November 5 Over the past seven years Graham Zimmerman has been leading a progression into unknown corners of the Alaska Range. During the presentation he’ll take the audience from his first major success in the range on the southwest Face of Mt. Bradley in the Ruth Gorge, to huge new routes in the remote Revelations in the southwest corner of the Alaska Range and finally to the Lacuna where he and his partner found the mighty Mastodon face of Mt. Laurens. Get ready for photos, videos, loud music and rowdy stories of massive mountains, nasty storms and big sends while exploring in one of the world’s great ranges. Tickets: $10 (portlandalpinefest.org/tickets/)

Day Hiking the San Juans and Gulf Islands

Patagonia on the Cheap—Do´s and Don’ts

Wednesday, November 12

Wednesday, November 19

Craig Romano (Day Hiking The San Juans and Gulf Islands), spotlights some of the best hiking destinations within the Salish Sea; hiking nearly a thousand miles on all 28 of the ferry-accessible islands. Learn about fascinating trails in the new San Juan National Monument and Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. Discover undeveloped islands, secluded beaches, bays, coves, rugged coastal ledges and magnificent old-growth forests, nature preserves, historic sites, lighthouses, hill tops, and open bluffs that burst with wildflowers.

Patricia Matteri, Linda Machtelinckx and Carole Beauclerk journeyed to Patagonia and will share experiences and photos from Santiago, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina. They include two sections: the practical side of independent travel in the region and the beauty of Patagonia in photos. Highlights are Mt. Fitz Roy, Pucón, Perito Moreno Glacier, Bariloche and Torres del Paine National Park.

Holiday—No Program Wednesday, November 26 November/2014—7

Time on Thomson

by Rick Craycraft

O

ut of respect for Jess Beauchemin I wanted to push myself a bit into 5th class alpine rock, thus eschewing the other route on Thomson, a sustained scramble. The West Ridge route is rated 5.6 and I’ve done that pretty easily at the rock gym (begin muffled laughter in the background). My rock resume is skimpy to say the least—Rooster Rock, Beacon Rock, Three-Fingered Jack, Washington, The Tooth, couple of things in Arizona—I figured in Jess’s capable hands I could fake it through a move or two if I needed to.

Fortunately, Thomson is one layer of mountains away from the traffic on I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass. Once we passed Red Mountain on the 7.1 mile pack-in to camp, we were nearer the southern border of the

Alpine Lakes Wilderness. I finally got to experience the Kendall Catwalk, made even more dramatic by the fact that valley clouds below kept us from telling whether it was 10 feet down or 2,000 (see photo below). We found a beautiful camp spot just before dark on Saturday above Gravel Lake.

However ... the sunny forecast wasn’t interested in cooperating. We awoke to low clouds but figured we’d pack up into the basin below Thomson and wait it out.

Thomson is 6,554 feet and the clouds were right down to the beginning of the route far below. So, surrounded by charming pikas in the rocks, we sat down and hoped the clouds would lift. We gave ourselves a noon turnaround time to start and it was now 8:30 a.m. I wondered what the hell I was going to do for potentially 3½ hours but, to our relief, the clouds began to clear maybe a half hour later. By that time we had been joined by a young couple from Seattle who had started to climb a crag in front of Thomson before we pointed out that it was NOT Thomson.

They appreciated that.

We followed the bottom of the clouds up a few more hundred feet to the “low point in the ridge,” according to multiple sources of beta. However, between us now

and the supposed start of the route was a gendarme that we “yes we can, no we can’t-ed” for about half an hour before finally realizing the one tremendously exposed hug-a-rock move we needed to make was indeed possible. That surmounted, we dropped on to the starting point of the West Ridge, put on our rock climbing accoutrements, flaked out the rope and got ready to rock and roll.

There was a consensus in the beta that “the first move is the crux of the route”.

It was a footprint wide ramp with one protrusion not so much to hang on to as push off from with the requisite hundreds of feet of air just inches to our left. Jess chose this time to tell me that she hadn’t been on alpine rock in a while and was going to be tentative until she got warmed up. A one, a two and upsy-daisy she hefted herself onto the route and got that first handhold and away she went.

My mistake on this portion of the route was believing the guys at the rental counter where I got my rock shoes. “Are your toes crimped?” they asked. “Will these things loosen up over the course of the climb?” I asked. They sent me on my way with hardy assurances. From the first step on the route I realized these shoes profoundly did not fit.

As in tiny pieces of bamboo being driven under my toenails didn’t fit. Every move was excruciating. I yelled aloud in pain numerous times and I’m sure Jess wondered what the hell was going on. Plus, since we had not been on rope together for a while, she was exercising the “lack of confidence” belay and dragging me up the route with virtually no slack in the rope. Besides all that the

climbing was not bad and I flopped onto her belay ledge without other problems. I took the shoes off immediately and switched to my trusty old “sticky” shoes I had bought for the Cable Route on Half Dome and the ones I climb with on the desert peaks. Such relief.

There seems to be no dawdling in alpine rock so Jess was off to another, longer pitch. I belayed her lead and pumped all the positive energy I could into her abilities. The rope ran through our system at first slowly, then a little faster, then stopped altogether from time to time. Such is the rhythm of leading—make a few moves then look for where to set the next piece of protection.

Finally the faint call of “off belay” comes and I have to break down our anchor system at that belay station and get myself ready to move on. During these first two pitches was the only unobscured sun we saw all day. Bit of a breeze. In a few minutes or so, I screamed “Climbing!” at the top of my lungs and heard a far-off sound I interpreted as “Climb on.” Another tricky first move then clear sailing until I saw Jess appear above me. Two pitches down.

Our beta suggested that we may want to split the next pitch into two. Jess also chose to do that but stopped at a belay ledge only big enough to stand on. A phone booth big enough for her and me and the rope.

With some tricky and careful maneuvering she manged to get off on to part two of this pitch. By the time it was my turn I found yet another dicey first move and was OK until I encountered what at first look seemed to be a sheer wall. Hmmm, don’t remember this in the beta. Jess yells down

“It’s the easiest way.” What the hell, we’re committed and up I go. About two-thirds of the way up my confidence was surging and I spontaneously decided to get cute. I had both hands wrapped around a rock horn just over my head and my right foot on a solid stance below me. However, my left foot was dangling. Looking over my shoulder at the face I saw another foothold a bit out of reach but solid. I dropped my right foot off its perch and heave-hoed the rest of my skinny body first right then left to catch that left stance. Penduluming? Is that what it’s called? At any rate, in another eyeblink I had shifted my right foot to a hold a few inches up and pushed myself on up the route. A Chris Sharma moment, I told Jess when I came in for a landing at the next station.

I was getting a mite weary by this time.

I’m an alpine slogger and 3rd class rock scrambler at heart and the intensity and continuous focus of this flavor of climbing was getting to me. We had barely stopped to eat or drink. Not that I was scared at any point but I expressly only glanced at the ever present exposure. I always had work to do and realized pretty early on that I was out at the edge, so to speak, of my rock climbing abilities. And, I didn’t know what was yet to come.

After these three pitches the summit was now in view. Clouds had been roiling up from the basin below for some time. No views today. We were presented with respite of sorts now in an extended low-angle slab ridge (now with a horrifying runout). Jess chose to belay it and I monkeyed my way across to supposedly the last belay station of the day. Beyond us was a “5.4 staircase and

then easy scramble to the top” claimed the beta. Yeah, but what about that first move, around a corner, with a plunge into the other valley behind us just below? Tut, tut.

The relentlessness of all this was getting to us both. We had been on this business going on 5 hours now and had consistently been betrayed by understated information.

I bolstered myself for the hopefully “Big Finish” by slugging water and a handful of homemade chocolate chip cookies. After the move around the corner and losing Jess from sight yet again the rope started really running through the system. I took this to be a very good sign. I heard her call, not so faint this time, and decided that maybe we were going to lick this thing after all. Yup. Some easy, almost fun climbing followed and I strolled by Jess when I got to her and right on to the summit. Was I happy? Not really.

Relieved? You betcha. Grateful to be in one piece? Yes. In the summit register, and to Jess directly, I announced that this was IT for me and alpine rock. I know my limits. I’m not interested in expanding them. I rose to the occasion today within my abilities. I am officially retiring from alpine rock for this lifetime. Just ... not ... my ... thing.

Read more about this climb from Jess’s point of view at: jessb.org/mt-thomson-westridge.

Clockwise, from upper left: Rick, the author, approaching the catwalk. The author mid-climb. Getting above the clouds. On the catwalk. Photos: Jess Beauchemin.

November/2014—9

Mazama Nordic Ski School 2014-2015 CLASSIC CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING Matching students’ skills to the appropriate class helps to ensure a safe and fun learning experience.

Please consider your current skills when choosing your class including: 1) endurance; 2) how balanced and stable you feel on skis; 3) number of miles you ski; and 4) terrain you are able to ski comfortably Beginner • Have not skied before • Have not skied for a number of years • Skiing on gentle hills feels out of control • Unable to demonstrate step turn, snow plow and/or diagonal stride • Unable to ski 2 miles on varied terrain without falling numerous times Novice • Skied regularly last season (at least four times out) • Able to demonstrate, but not yet mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride • Able to ski 3 miles on varied terrain without falling numerous times • Able to ski up hills somewhat comfortably Intermediate • Able to ski at least 4 miles on varied terrain comfortably • Want to increase skills and efficiency • Want to go on longer than 5-mile ski tours • Mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride Advanced • Mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride • Able to comfortably ski 7 or so miles on varying terrain • Want to improve rhythm and manage transitions better

Note: If you have downhill skiing experience and endurance, but want to learn the basics of Nordic skiing, novice or intermediate class is probably appropriate for you.

10 —Mazama Bulletin

NORDIC BACKCOUNTRY For those who want to develop the skills and confidence to get off the beaten path. This class will emphasize winter backcountry navigation and negotiating difficult terrain with safety and comfort. Intermediate cross-country skills and intermediate navigation (map/ compass) are required. Note: This is Nordic Backcountry and will not cover Ski Mountaineering skills, which is a separate class.

TELEMARK/FreeHeel Skiing (NORDIC DOWNHILL) No matter what you call it this is the ultimate go anywhere set of skiing skills. Uphill, downhill, backcountry, touring—You can go anywhere on any terrain if you can telemark. Using new style tele gear and techniques, gone are the days of deep knee bending and pain ... leaving the ear to ear perma-grin of success and fun.

The Mazamas Telemark Class has four outcomes that our students achieve year after year. You will: Ski the Magic Mile/open terrain/moderately steep, link telemark turns, ski a black diamond and ski through the trees. Usually with a low student to instructor ratio we are able to maximize one-on-one instruction which allows you to not only work through the progression of skiing skills but also helps in identifying and removing roadblocks allowing you to jump forward to a new level of skiing.

We remove impediments to progress by encouraging you to ski on high performance equipment—you should not have to fight with your skis in order to turn. Starting with groomed runs served by high speed lifts we aim to maximize your skiing time while progressing to more difficult terrain as your skills and interests grow. Whether you are an alpine skier who wants a new challenge, a ski mountaineer who wants to improve your skill set, a Nordic skier who is ready for the next level, or just want to push snowboarders down and ski uphill away from them, this class is for you.

For more information and to apply online: mazamas.org/education-classes/nordic-ski-school/ Applications are due by Dec. 5, 2014. Classes start 2nd weekend in January 2015. Four classes are held on Saturdays or Sundays in January, depending on instructor availability.

Tuition: $80 Member/$100 Nonmember.

Nordic Downhill (Telemark): $110 Member/$130 Nonmember (lift tickets not included).

A mandatory student orientation will be held at 7 p.m. on Tuesday, Dec. 16, 2014, at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave. Phone 503-227-2345 Questions? www.mazamas.org or email mazama. nordic@mazamas.org If you still have questions about the class levels, please call the MMC at 503-227-2345 or Jodi Wacenske at 503-515-1707.

Adventure Travel

OUTINGS— LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2015

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken

Springtime in Sedona

North to Alaska Outing

March 14–21, 2015

March 21­–29, 2015

Feb. 7–19, 2015

Experience hiking amongst soaring Red Rock monoliths, vortexes and Indian ruins. Spend a week in the greater Sedona, Arizona area with 6 days of day hikes and a mid-week break to visit ancient pueblo ruins, ghost towns and art galleries. Both A & B hikes will be offered with a variety of terrain. Escape the rainy NW and enjoy the high desert with over 300 days of sunshine, average temperatures in the 60’s and cold nights with star filled skies.

Costs include 8 nights lodging at a moderate hotel with continental breakfast (double occupancy). Not included are transportation, lunch and dinner.

Air costs run $280+. Participants are encouraged to share car rentals and gas. Costs $433– $489 for members, depending on number of participants.

Registration deadline Feb. 21, 2015. Pre-outing meeting will be held.

Contact Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@ecd.com and Marilyn Zigler, mszhike@gmail. com.

This Outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali.

The Outing group will fly to Anchorage and after one night in Anchorage, use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for XC skiing, snow shoeing, aurora watching, learning about dog mushing, photography, meeting locals, learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaskan Range. There will likely be an optional air taxi flight around Denali, with glacier landing in the Ruth Gorge.

Basic costs for airfare to and from Portland, vehicle rental, most food and lodging is around $1,200. Equipment rental if needed ~ $75; dog mushing sled ride ~ $75; scenic Denali flight and Ruth Gorge landing ~ $300. Outing deposit is $550.

Individuals interested in joining the Outing, need to contact Tom Bennett, nordlys_2@ yahoo.com.

Please let us know why you want to participate and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.

From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, experience the scenery and wildlife of unique climatic zones as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. Our ascent to the summit follows one of the least frequented routes via Lemosho Gate and the Western Breach climb. Following 9 days of trekking and climbing, we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari.

In country costs for this unique trip range $3800-4300 per person depending upon number of participants. Airfare from Portland is currently around $1,600 and can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. For more information please contact the leaders: Paul Steger, 503-9986188, (PaulSteger612@gmail.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-341-3996, (erichoem@comcast.net).

Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland July 22–Aug. 2, 2015 This outing takes us to the fjords of western Norway and the dramatic, adjacent mountains of Romsdal. Our base will be the scenic town of Molde where we will stay in an upscale hostel, which offers private rooms and includes breakfast. We will visit scenic coastal fishing villages and historic farms. Every day will include hiking, some easy and some more challenging. After acclimatization to the active outdoor life that Norwegian’s call “Frilufsliv,” meaning life in the open air, we plan to climb the Klovstein path with views of precipitous Trollstigen highway and hike the more challenging Romsdal Ridge. Finally, we will embark on a three-day, hut-tohut trek through the heart of the Romsdal Mountains.

Land costs include lodging, transportation, heritage farm tour, breakfasts, and two dinners. Not included: transportation to and from Molde, Norway; museum fees; lunches; and dinners other than ones included. Cost: $2,200 to $3,600, depending on number of participants. Deadline for application: Nov. 1, 2014.

Required deposit: $500. Contact: Eric Hoem, leader (503-6946036; erichoem@comcast.net) or Paul Steger, assistant (503-9986188; paulsteger612@gmail.com).

November/2014—11

Successful Climbers June 1, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Dave Budnik. Amanda Crochet, Bruce Giordano, Sarah Holmes, Ryan Johmson, Andrea Kowalski, Mike Levis, Ashish Shavarna, Adonay Solleiro June 20, Curtis Gilbert, Klickton Divide.

Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Kent Ross. Kurt Hiland, Mason Purdy, Russell Turner Aug. 9, Three-Fingered Jack, S. Ridge.

Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Scott Osbron. Nick Beyer, Dave Budnik, Sujay Deshmukh, Kayla Stolte, Melissa Trammell, Trozell Weaver Aug. 9, Tooth, S. Face. Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Nichole Castonguay. Amber Beyer, Patrick Clark, Justin Colquhoun, Kim Edger, Susan Jeltsch, Elizabeth Pedersen, Helene Simon, Katya Staroseltseva Aug. 16, South Sister, Green Lakes.

Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Al Papesh. Kristin Bailie, Rick Busing, Kate Evans, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Mike Klepfes, Brad Magee Aug. 17, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Al Papesh. Kristin Bailie, Rick Busing, Kate Evans, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Mike Klepfes, Brad Magee, Josha Moss Aug. 27, Mt. Washington, N. Ridge.

Leader: David Zeps, Asst: Tom Whitney. Angel Bohlke, Ardel Frick, Paul Kallmann, Stephen Loos, Jen Travers Sept. 13, North Sister, S. Ridge. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Scott Osbron. Ann Ames, Ryan Johnson, Sujay Seshmukh, Robin Wilburn Sept. 13, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Adam Haas. John Andrews, Brian Clark, Thomas Doherty, Martin Gillen, Tammie Gillen, Darrin Gunkel, Kate Hibschman Sept. 13, Castle Pinnacle, Reflection Lake. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Beth Copeland. Jamie Anderson, Patrick Thorpe Sept. 14, Mt. Washington, N. Ridge.

Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Joe Eberhardt.

Gregg Baker, Jean Hillebrand, Kevin Nelson, Kirk Newgard, Brad Noren, Mark Stave, John Wilson Sept. 14, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Aaron Bohn. John Andrews, Martin Gilen, Paul Johnson, Matt Lyon, Alex Macdonald, Juliette Oldfiend, Erica Timm Sept. 14, South Sister, Green Lakes.

Leader: Dan Schuster, Asst: Nancy Goering.

Alice Brocoum, Brinda Ganesh, Kristofel Simbajon, Celerina Tinajero Sept. 19, Mt. McLoughlin, E. Ridge.

Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Sherry Aanerud.

Kate Evans, Carol Federiuk, Tamara Haspels, Stephen Kingsbury, Ken Lytwyn Sept. 20, Mt. Berge & Mt. Buck, Buck Creek Pass. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Caleb Sattgast. Nick Beyer, Tim Collins, Sujay Deshmukh, Cheryl Frankenfield, David Roberts Sept. 20, Mt. Washington, N. Ridge.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Rico Micallef.

Brian Bates, Justin Colquhoun, Linda Man, Karin Masunari

12 —Mazama Bulletin

Sept. 20, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall.

Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Patrick Clark. Jeff Maag, Mason Purdy, Daniel Sword Sept. 20, Del Campo Peak & Gothic Peak, Gothic Basin. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Kyle Heddy. Loren Guerriero, Ellen Jones, Ryan Jones, Matt Lyon, Jennifer Van Houten Sept. 20, Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge.

Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Cathy Gaylord.

Drew Gaylord, Elly Pedersen, Suresh Singh Sept. 21, South Sister, Devil’s Lake.

Leader: Heather Campbell, Asst: Erin Wirtz.

Kelli Becker, Molly Conroy, Makana Kim, Don McCoy, Mary Monnat, Scott Schmitz, Kristofel Simbajon, Larry Solomon Sept. 21, Three-Fingered Jack, S. Ridge.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Justin Colquhoun.

Linda Man, Karin Masunari, Rico Micallef, Ryan Reed Sept. 21, Mt. Yoran, Standard. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Jon Putnam. Jeff Earl, Ardel Frick, Margaret McCarthy, Dave Petermeier, Scott Stevenson, John Wilson Sept. 21, Mt. Thielsen, W. Ridge. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Kathleen Hahn. Akshay Dua, Kate Evans, Liz Puskar, Andrew Schiestl, Candy Yiu Sept. 21, Diamond Peak, E. Ridge.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Jon Putnam. Jeff Earll, Ardel Frick, Margaret McCarthy, Dave Petermeier, John Wilson Sept. 26, Mt. Thielsen, W. Ridge. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Todd Perimon. Krista Curtis, Aaron Nelson Sept. 27, Cashmere Mountain, W. Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jonathan Myers. Martin Gillen, Jim Miller, Stacy Redington Sept. 28, Del Campo Peak, S. Face.

Leader: Dan Schuster, Asst: Suresh Singh. Athul Acharya, Joe Timko, Dawn Van Seggen Oct. 4, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall.

Leader: Justin Rotherham, Asst: Matthew Sundling. Ronald Kravitz, Margaret McCarthy, Stephanie Spence Oct. 4, Mt. Thielsen, W. Ridge.

Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Scott Stevenson. Jenny Bedell-Stiles, Brian Clark, Kate Hibschman, Diane Lloyd, Roger Sharp, Erica Timm, Jennifer Van Houten Oct. 5, Mt. Thielsen, W. Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Aaron Bohn. Pailyn Brown, Rick Busing, Thomas Doherty Oct. 5, Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse.

Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Justin Rotheram. Ron Kravitz, Margaret McCarthy, Stephanie Spence Oct. 11, Castle Dome, Standard.

Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Darrell Weston. Benjamin Grandy, Alex Lockard, Dana Tofell

Memoir Writing Workshop

Begins November 15 The author on the summit of Mt. Hood with Keith Blume.

Led by Former Mazama Lodge Caretaker Joe Fox “The Troop” by Joe Fox I remember crouching alongside the edge of a deep canyon, peering intently through tall savannah grasses at the darkening cliff face opposite us and thinking, this man beside me is one of the most singularly inhuman people I have ever known. Eric was his name. And he was an American like me. And also the academic that I hoped to one day become. Yet, there was something utterly unreal about his comportment. He was a stout and powerful man, but his broad shoulders were perpetually stooped, giving him a hunched, almost sullen, stance at all times. And then there was his manner of speech. Despite the fact that he was our guide and instructor for the day he spoke in low tones, and always out of the corner of his mouth, as if he were uncomfortable with his role as leader. His eyes never met mine once the entire afternoon, even when he addressed me directly. I crouched and watched, trying to be present with the multicolored brilliance of the dusk light around me.

Eric had been studying and living with a baboon troop in the southern Kenyan hills for more than eighteen months, and something had changed within him.

He seemed uneasy around this human assemblage. He no longer behaved like a person. He behaved like a baboon. And crouching beside him, not quite shoulder to shoulder, I felt that I was standing beside one of my primordial ancestors.

Then it began. I saw one dark body, and then another and another behind it, carefully glide along the canyon floor far below to the steep cliff faces opposite us.

The first of the baboons had made its way to the troop’s designated sleeping area. A few of the dark bodies had large

furry humps on their backs. I cleared my throat. “Mothers,” Eric fairly grunted, “carrying their young.” I kept my eyes glued to the cliff face. As more and more baboons approached and then climbed the steep wall, I was struck by how quiet they were being. I had seen the wild barks and calls of baboons in videos, and had even heard a few piercing calls echo through the trees during our hike out to this spot.

They were large, powerful animals and incredibly loud, when they wanted to be.

But with dusk approaching they walked and climbed in virtual silence. As their numbers grew, they began to climb higher and higher on the wall to accommodate late arrivals. I was amazed at how deftly they climbed and how casually they settled down to rest for the night. How could they relax, and actually sleep, hundreds of feet above the ground like this?

As the sky darkened, the numbers of baboons clinging to the far wall of the canyon rose to almost one hundred before a proper count became difficult. “How many Anubis are in this troop?” I asked, feeling good about remembering their proper name.

“At last count it was somewhere between 180 and 200.”

Earlier in the day, Eric had told us that dusk was the best and safest time for all of us to observe the baboon troop. And he had explained that they climb to safe havens at night to avoid predators. But actually witnessing nearly two-hundred baboons cling to a cliff face to sleep, in person, was a life-altering event.

I have never been able to shake the powerful sense of fascination and wonder that was instilled in me during those first few exhilarating days in Kenya in the summer of 2002. It’s what has driven my many travels, hikes and mountaineering trips since—this overwhelming feeling

that experience itself may very well be the purpose of life. That seeking ecstatic moments, testing our personal limits, and defining the course of our lives through action, and through adventure, is a purpose unto itself.

I never did become a primatologist like Eric. Instead I have become a teacher and a writer.

And I am beginning a memoir writing course for members of the Mazama community who would like to write more, or write with more confidence.

Or for those who simply feel the need to commemorate some of the amazing moments in their own lives through writing.

My goal is to nurture the Mazama identity as not only a community of adventurers, educators and conservationists, but also as a community of writers. My intention is for each person who takes my course to come away with a polished piece of writing that they can feel proud of, and which helps define and document a memory they hold dear.

Each workshop will last six weeks and the $250 fee includes all materials, regular e-mail correspondence between you and I, and weekly group meetings where we can gather to discuss our process and develop new skills.

It doesn’t matter whether you haven’t written anything of substance in a long time or just finished writing about last weekend’s climb a few minutes ago.

Everyone has a story to tell. Let me help you do it with style.

Contact Joe Fox, at reachmrfox@gmail. com for more details or to sign up for the November 15th session.

November/2014—13

Mazama Completes Unique Oregon Mountaineering Goal

by David Stein

top with Joe in the lead completing his goal. n a beautiful September The idea to pursue this goal weekend four members was planted back in 1994 when of the Mazamas headed Mazama Kermit Williams wrote to the the Wallowa mountains an article in the October 1994 with the goal of ascending Elkhorn Bulletin. He had compiled a list Peak. For Joe Whittington this of the 33 peaks over 9,000 ft. in would be his fourth attempt on Oregon. He accomplished this task this peak and the final peak on by studying many references of his quest to climb all of the 31 the day and reviewing topographic peaks over 9,000 ft. elevation in maps. With refinement there the state of Oregon. On September is now agreed to be 31 peaks 20, the team (Joe Whittington, listed with greater than 500 ft. of Faisal Alisdairi, David Stein and prominence and sufficient isolation Maggie Tomberlin) started out of to qualify. A total of 18 of these peaks reside in the Wallowa Mountains, nine in the Cascades and the last few in the Blues and Steens areas.

Completing this list was a huge challenge due to the lack of route information and remoteness of some of the peaks. Joe has led at least 10 official Mazama trips east of the Cascades in this pursuit. Many of the peaks Joe had to add to the Mazama Joe Whittington on the summit of Elkhorn Peak. Photo: David Stein. climb database before the trip camp and followed the GPS track was posted. While the major peaks of a climber that had successfully of the Cascades are commonly ascended the nasty loose route on climbed with lots of information the south side of the mountain. on routes and approaches, the After four hours of carefully available information on some picking our way through the loose of the remote peaks on this list debris, the team safely obtained the is often very limited and is not saddle and climbed the solid rock commonly pursued. I remember ridge of the summit block to the

O

14 —Mazama Bulletin

researching the climb of Needle Point in the Wallowas three years ago. The only information I could find was a sentence on the Summitpost website that stated that there are three possible routes you can try, with the West Ridge looking the most promising. We successfully summited via the West Ridge and looked down on those and realized the other routes would have posed significant technical challenges. On the final ascent of Elkhorn Peak, Joe had the luxury of a recently posted GPS track which we followed right up a steep loose chute. Until that was posted there had been no other solid information available.

It was reassuring to see that others had tried and succeeded on the route since it did not look possible from a distance. I was impressed with Joe’s determination and focus on his goal since just getting to the trailhead is often a seven-hour process and many peaks take several attempts to find the proper route. Cusick Mountain was his most elusive and remote peak, with success on his fifth attempt.

Over the years Joe has kept himself busy with climbing lists and accomplishments. With the Mazamas he has obtained the Guardian Peaks Award, 16 peaks Award, the Terry Becker Award for leading the 16 peaks, and the Leuthold Award for leading the 16 peaks with distinguished service for the organization. I would love to see the Mazamas develop a 31 Oregon Peak award to honor this accomplishment and lead others to pursue this goal within our state.

One disappointment for Joe is the 50 state high points in the US. Joe has climbed 49 of these 50 high points but turned back twice on

Peak Mt. Hood Mt. Jefferson South Sister

Denali to help teammates.

Joe still has additional goals after completing this quest. He is quick to state that he is not yet ready to take up fishing. His future plans are to pursue the Oregon County High points, and finish section-hiking the Oregon Coast Trail. There may be future climbs on the schedule or an outing. As for Denali, I think Joe has no intention of suffering in the cold a third time.

I encourage others to check out Peak Bagger (http://peakbagger.com) to find a list that catches their eye. This will give you focus and lead you to some incredible places off the beaten path of the 16 peaks. I hope to hit a good number of the top 100 list in the state. I may never climb Jefferson The climbing party on the summit of Elkhorn Peak. Photo: David Stein. or North Sister but you may find me topping out on Eight Dollar or Paulina Elevation Range Date Peak on my quest, while discovering new places in Oregon where few venture. I can only hope that I may 11,239 ORC 4/30/1978 be standing on another peak on the list when I am 70 years old and 10,497 ORC 8/2/1981 still climbing like Joe! Congratulations on a job well done.

10,358 ORC 8/6/1978

North Sister

10,085

ORC

Middle Sister

10,047

ORC

7/24/1982 8/5/1978

Sacajawea Peak

9,838

W

8/12/1999

Hurwal Divide

9,776

W

7/24/2011

Steens Mountain

9,733

NWGBR

8/26/2011

Aneroid Mountain

9,702

W

8/8/1999

Petes Point

9,675

W

8/6/2007

Twin Peaks

9,673

W

8/4/2007

Chief Joseph Mountain

9,616

W

7/31/2005 8/29/1987

Eagle Cap

9,572

W

Red Mountain

9,560

W

8/4/2010

Cusick Mountain

9,518

W

8/31/2014

Mount McLoughlin

9,495

ORC

9/9/1990

Aneroid Mountain North

9,440

W

8/8/1999

Sentinel Peak

9,400

W

8/6/2007

Hurricane Divide South

9,386

W

8/18/2012

Steens Mountain-North Peak

9,348

NWGBR

8/26/2011 9/20/2014

Elkhorn Peak

9,233

W

Mount Thielsen

9,182

ORC

9/8/1990

Broken Top

9,175

ORC

9/11/1988

Glacier Mountain

9,169

W

8/24/2014

East McCully Basin Peak

9,128

W

9/11/2012

Rock Creek Butte

9,106

BM

9/10/2011

Krag Peak

9,080

W

8/5/2010

Dollar Lake Peak

9,080

W

9/9/2012

Mount Bachelor

9,065

ORC

9/7/1991

Strawberry Mountain

9,040

SCP

7/12/1992

Needle Point

9,018

W

9/12/2011

ORC=Oregon Cascades W=Wallowa Mountains NWGSR: Northwest Great Basin Ranges BM: Blue Mountains SCP: South Columbia Plateau November/2014—15

Calm Your Tetons

by Jon Skeen

New trad leaders Jon Skeen and Ally Imbody take on their first big alpine rock objective after completing AR, with support from the American Alpine Club “Live Your Dream” Grant

“

“We’re gonna climb that?” Coming around a corner in small-town-Wyoming, the Grand Teton was just peeking through a gap in the hills. “That’s going to be a long day.” Nerves and excitement were mixing together creating a tension not so different from the coming week’s predicted weather.

We still had several hours before we made it to Jackson, but the conversation kept coming back to one thought: man, that mountain is gnarly.

We approached Jackson as lofty cumulus clouds began their ritualistic afternoon gathering among the summits of the Teton range. We cruised the park, exploring the

16 —Mazama Bulletin

Soon after a free-hanging double rope rappel, the trail and sunlight conspired to fade into rocky cliffs and twilight. We explored nooks and crannies by headlamp, looking for any option to get down.

”

shores of Jenny Lake, the views from Signal Mountain, and generally taking in the expansive vistas and jagged summits. We eventually made our way to the Jenny Lake climbing rangers to check conditions on our “warm up” climb, the Southwest Ridge on Symmetry Spire. “Oh, that’s a great climb,” the ranger assured us. “The snow should be melted out enough to get by without crampons or axes.”

“I wish we had axes.” Looking at a traverse across a hard packed 45 degree snowfield we contemplated how well we could kick steps in approach shoes. Just well enough, it turns out. Safely across, we were finally going to get a taste of the Teton gneiss and granite we had been dreaming about for months. The climb went well, and we learned a few things along the way: one can belay twin ropes through a munter if you forget your belay device; sometimes simulclimbing is mandatory; and taking the “more fun” variation described in the book usually means “more difficult by a grade or two.”

Valuable lessons, all, and we let them soak in as we bushwhacked our way back to the parking lot.

The following week was spent teleworking from coffee shops and camping on public land. I like to call it “high-tech

dirtbagging.” Thunder showers kept us indoors most of the week, but we did manage to get in some fly fishing on Flat Creek and a quick dip in Granite Hot Springs. As the big day approached, weather reports for the weekend looked depressing. We knew we’d have to make a game-time decision based on the weather the morning of our summit bid. We worked out options to bail at Wall Street or to skip the Lower Exum and only climb the more moderate Upper route. We even considered going home. We were prepared to turn around defeated. We were glad we stayed.

Friday finally rolled around and we checked into the AAC Climbers’ Ranch. We had a cabin to ourselves with a patio view of the Grand Teton. The stoke was strong as we finalized beta and tried to get some sleep. In the morning we began our approach to the Moraine campsites. The effects of altitude and heavy packs were negated by gorgeous meadows, waterfalls, and a bear cub sighting. We mingled with our fellow climbers and came up with a general plan on how to best share the Lower Exum with other parties in the morning. Confident that we were as prepared as we were going to be, we finished dinner and called it an early night.

At 4 a.m. we nervously scarfed down bars and made our way to the Lower Saddle.

The next challenge was locating the base of the climb, but we eventually found a cairn marking the “grassy ramp” we would take to the first belay stance and scrambled up to the start of our adventure. The first pitch was cold and wet, but solid and so much fun! There was flake climbing, wide stemming, a pass underneath a chockstone,

and a little bit of crack climbing all in one pitch. I was grinning like an idiot by the time I clipped into my anchor. The next pitch was a fun cruiser and brought us to the second most recognizable pitch on the route, a pair of diagonal hand cracks. We had been reading about these features for months and now we were finally seeing them in person.

I tried to explain my excitement to Ally, but choked on a mix of adrenaline and ecstasy.

That’s right: the climbing was so good that it made me cry.

We moved our belay to the hand cracks

and moved up the pitch. The next obstacle was a tight chimney with a chockstone at the top which makes for a funky exit. The belay placed us at the base of The Black Face, the crux of the route.

As promised, the climbing was sustained, positive, and awesome. One more pitch up a smooth crack and we were on Wall Street. The hard climbing was behind us but we still had 12 pitches to go. We simulclimbed most of the remaining rock, stopping to belay for a variant on the Friction Pitch (on which we took a “more fun” option) and the dihedral V-Pitch. We were getting low on daylight, but at least the weather was cooperating.

Another party was ascending the east ridge as we neared the summit block. We were the last four up there and decided to team up on the way down. We snapped a few photos and started looking for the rappel stations while swapping stories of the day’s adventures.

Soon after a free-hanging double rope

rappel, the trail and sunlight conspired to fade into rocky cliffs and twilight. We explored nooks and crannies by headlamp, looking for any option to get down.

Eventually we came across a tunnel, with a single footprint in the dust, leading to a vertical cave. It felt like the pipes in “Mario Brothers”, entering one end and exiting in a totally new area. We’re still not sure if this is the “standard descent path,” but it got us where we needed to be. Relieved to be back at the tent, we slept hard before packing everything out in the morning.

We began the drive back to Portland much like how the drive to Jackson ended: staring at the mountains, trying to get a good look at the Grand. “We climbed that.

Man, that mountain is gnarly.”

Clockwise from left page: Safely back at the the AAC Climbers’ Ranch. Jon and Ally on the summit of the Grand Teton. Shadow of the Teton Range at sunset. The Moulton Ranch and Teton Range (all photos by Ally Imbody. Photos: Ally Imbody.

November/2014—17

“Classics”

Classic Mazamas Needed: Transportation Coordinator Classic Mazamas is seeking a Transportation Coordinator. The ideal volunteer will become the living repository of a diverse informal database, developed over time through improvisation and experience.

The Coordinator will (eventually) be a master of Tri-met tables and policies, road conditions at Government Camp, or the best routes to an east- or west-side rendezvous— from any starting point. The Coordinator will (eventually) know who has a van, who needs a wheelchair, who comprises a de facto carpool and so on. This position is about making connections, using the phone, using email, consulting the internet—making it happen. Classic Mazama members as a group have a full range of abilities and resources. This position is as central to the Mazama mission as the dedication and talent of any volunteer climb leader. Please step up to help us realize the vision; contact Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503775-1164.

Leading Events in December To lead an even in December contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net or 503-762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503-775-1164

by Nov. 12th for inclusion in the December Bulletin.

Mon. Nov. 3: Multnomah Falls to Wahkeena Falls Hike Enjoy a 5-mile mile hike at a leisurely pace with an early lunch at the four-way trail junction. David will bring a stove to heat water for you to enjoy coffee, tea, hot chocolate or soup for lunch. Contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail. com regarding the trailhead meeting time.

The hike will be rescheduled if it is raining.

18 —Mazama Bulletin

25 years or more of Mazama membership We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

Sat. Nov. 8: The Summit, Oregon Convention Center At the climax of the Portland Alpine Festival (Nov. 3–8) come hear climbing legend John Roskelley present “Significant Ascents in the Himalayas and Karakorum.”

Formerly known as the Annual Celebration, this event includes food, drinks, an auction, and the Mazama annual awards. There will also be a Classics table for folks to socialize.

The Oregon Convention Center is easy to get to by car, MAX, bus, and bike. See more information about the event in the Bulletin and on the Mazama website.

Wed. Nov. 12: San Juans Hiking Program, 7 p.m; Pre-program Potluck, 5:30 p.m.

Program: Day hike the San Juan and Gulf Islands with award-winning guidebook author, Craig Romano. Read more about the program on page 7.

Fri. Nov.14: Multnomah Village Visit and Lunch Join us for a walk and lunch in Multnomah Village. Meet in the entry of the Multnomah Arts Center at 11 a.m. (7688 SW Capitol Hwy.) We’ll visit the November exhibit and the senior center and admire the permanent art and murals. There is free parking on three sides of the Center and on nearby streets.

There will be free time to explore some of the unique shops such as Thinker Toys, Annie Bloom’s Books, Topanien, Global Gifts, Indigo Traders, Maggie’s Boutique and Peachtree Gifts. Lunch will be at O’Conner’s at noon. Those who wish may walk 15 minutes via colorful neighborhood streets to the big Multnomah Community Garden.

Leader: Anne Jacobs, 503-293-6304.

Mon. Nov. 17: Salmon River Out and Back Hike Hike 5 miles at a leisurely pace, and enjoy lunch at the Salmon River Canyon Viewpoint. David will bring a stove to

heat water if anyone wants coffee, tea, hot chocolate or soup for their lunch. Contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@ gmail.com regarding the meeting time. The hike will be rescheduled if it is raining.

Thurs. Dec. 4: Powell’s Book Tour and Pearl District Walk 10 a.m.

Meet at the main entrance to Powell’s Books, 1005 SW Burnside.

Bruce, our tour guide, will acquaint us with information concerning the recently completed renovations of their store. The tour includes all floors and each department with a description of services provided at each site. Bruce is an expert on the history of the business and also special interesting, often comical, details about items relating to this historic building. There will be access to the rare book room with dialog about certain items of interest.

After the tour, those not wanting to walk can have lunch at a restaurant just around the corner. Others can continue on to the next destination, the old historic restaurant, Republic Chinese Restaurant, via a walk through the Pearl District to Chinatown.

After lunch we’ll continue to Pioneer Square and the Max where we can enjoy the Christmas decorations.

Leader: Rose Marie Gilbert 503-762-2357 Fri. Dec. 12: Second Annual Holiday Luncheon, MMC, noon This is an opportunity to mingle and visit with fellow Classic Mazamas and MMC staff, and enjoy a wonderful lunch. A short program will include recognizing and awarding pins to new 25-year and 50-year members. This year we are asking for a suggested donation of $5 to cover half the cost of the lunch.

To help us determine food needs and seating requirements, please RSVP by Monday, Dec. 8 to Dyanne Foster at 503267-8937 or dyfozter@gmail.com.

Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker Caretakers: Aaron & Brett 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Thank you Max’s parents: Sandy and Duane Rupert who have been working as caretakers throughout the summer! Welcome your new caretakers Aaron Kogh who specializes in gluten free cooking and Brett Mathewson who recently graduated from Smith College. Aaron and Brett are coming to us from the Goldmyer Hot Springs Land Trust in the Washington Cascades.

Locker Rental Reminder: if you have not paid your annual locker rental fee ($25) by Nov. 1, your payment is now past due. Make sure you let us know what locker or lockers are yours when you send in your payment. We also rent lockers by the day for only $2. We still have lockers available. Payments should be sent to the lodge at: Mazama Lodge, PO Box 87, Government Camp, OR 97028 Thanksgiving The lodge will open at noon on Thanksgiving. At 1 p.m. the Trail Trips Committee will lead a hike or snowshoe (depending on weather) from the lodge, returning by 4 p.m. in time for appetizers and the 5 p.m. dinner.

Prices are $19.50 for adults 13 and older. For 12 and younger the price is $9 and free for 2 and under.

THANKSGIVING MENU • Smoked Salmon Spread, Served with Crackers • Veggie Tray with Assorted Dips.

• Mixed Green Salad with Sun-Dried Cranberries & Toasted Almond Vinaigrette • Roasted Yams with Sauteed Shallots • Homemade Bread (Gluten Free Option available) • Stuffing & Cranberry Sauce • Sauteed Carrots & Fresh Parsley • Garlic Mashed Potatoes • Fresh, Natural Roast Turkey • Homemade Pies—Apple and Pumpkin—Served with Whipped Cream.

Calling all leaders and LD candidates for BCEP! Your summer climbing season is transforming to whatever it is you like to do in wintry weather (rock gym, ice climbing, snow camping, or cookies and the couch); yet it’s never too early to start dreaming about next spring and summer—and signing up to teach BCEP next year! We’ll have a new crop of fresh faces to introduce to the world of climbing. Those pleasant springtime conditioning hikes we all love. The warm sunshine on the slopes of Mt. Hood while practicing snow skills. The calm and gentle breezes of Horsethief Butte.

BCEP is always a very popular and oversubscribed program, so we want to make sure we can offer the class to as many people as possible.

If you’re a climb leader or are currently in the leadership development program and are interested in leading a team in 2015, please let us know at bcep@mazamas.org. Also indicate if you’re interested in helping with a summer BCEP session.

Information Night will be at the MMC on Jan. 22, 2015 and the first lecture will be on March 17, 2015.

Recycling at the MMC—Update Changes in policy for commercial compost recycling for the City of Portland are about to affect the MMC. As of Nov. 1 we will no longer be able to put pizza boxes in the curbside bin. This is just a precursor to the elimination of all non-food waste—compostable paper plates, napkins, paper towels from the bathroom, paper to-go food containers—from the curbside system by next March 1. It will be a giant step backward in the recycling/composting efforts made at the MMC. About all we can do to counteract this move is to consider adding another hand dryer to the bathrooms and, long-term, switching to permanant ware dishes and utensils and adding a dishwasher to the kitchen downstairs. Any input on this matter would be welcomed.

Mazama Blog—Video Feature Duane and Sandy Rupert, aka Max’s parents, enjoy a quiet moment at the lodge. A grey wolf comes through the lodge buffet.

Photos: Charles Barker.

We would like to showcase your video on the Mazama Video of the Month feature on the Mazama Blog (mazamas. blogspot.com). Videos made by Mazamas featuring your climb, backpack trip, ski adventure, hike or other outdoor activity are needed. Please consider sharing your wilderness passion with your fellow Mazamas by sharing your video. Submit the URL of your YouTube- or Vimeo-hosted video, along with a concise introductory description, to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member

since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

November/2014—19

Climb Leader Profile: Chris Kruell Residence: Portland Hometown: Minneapolis When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? I had a mild desire to climb Mt. Hood ever since moving to Portland in the mid-90s. When three out-of-towners perished on a stormy winter climb, I decided to sign up for BCEP, which I’d learned about from a friend, because it seemed learning how to climb might be a good idea--and fun.

What are your favorite climbs/hikes? I love accessible climbs that have a high reward/ effort ratio such as Unicorn and Broken Top. And then there’s always the last climb, which right now is Yosemite’s Cathedral Peak.

What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year? I just returned from climbing in Yosemite, which was The Trip this year.

Best climbing memory: Too many! My first ascent of Hood will always stand out, though.

Future climbing goals? Climb with friends.

Expand my comfort zone and return home safely. See what percolates up onto my list of Things to Do (Patagonia region, maybe?).

Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: My Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody.

It’s red, warm enough, and easy to pack.

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Honestly, any red piece of gear has an edge up on my ‘favorite’ list.

Guiding principle/philosophy: Engage with power, courage, integrity, and grace.

Favorite leader treat? Without a doubt, chocolate chip cookies.

Favorite book: The beautifully written, A River Runs Through It, by Norman Maclean.

Favorite quote: Perhaps paraphrased: ‘It is better to fail falling than it is to give up,’ Royal Robbins.

Favorite music/musician: Iowa singer/ songwriter Greg Brown, followed closely by Bob Dylan. Street musicians. I grew up with a steady diet of classical and jazz; will listen to most anything.

Favorite actors: John Cusack, Hugh Grant, Hackman, Jodie Foster, McConaughey, Dench, Pitt, Mirren, Penn, De Niro, Streep, Freeman ...

Favorite restaurant: Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty.

Favorite website: nytimes.com. Unfavorite: mountain-forecast.com Words that best describe you: A quick poll turned up Dad, patient, reserved, nonjudgmental, friendly, receptive, decisive, occasionally stubborn, cranky when not fed sugar in the wee hours of an alpine slog.

Most treasured possessions: A poem my oldest child wrote. A father’s day present made by my middle child. A painting from my youngest.

The last sweater my grandmother knit for me.

Person(s) most interested in meeting: Jimmy Carter. Thomas Jefferson. Whoever discovered that avocados are edible.

Favorite vacation spot: Off the grid When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? In my garden or somewhere reading with a beverage at hand.

Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Photography, writing, flailing away at the piano, cleaning up after my dog.

Occupation: The marketing director for Vancouver-based CRU, a high-tech company.

Our monthly evening of rock climbing at ClubSport in Tigard. See the Climb Night page for details..

Monday, Nov. 17—Pub Night

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Monday, Dec. 15—Pub Night: Horse Brass Pub and Peacock Lane Join the 20s & 30s Mazamas the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at Horse Brass Pub, 4534 SE Belmont St. We will also be walking over to see the holiday lighting display on Peacock Lane. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also a great time to find out what we’re up to, plan your next adventure, and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe!

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Want to get more involved with 20s & 30s Mazamas? We are looking for Climb Night Hosts and Hike Leader:

Climb Night Hosts Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and nonmembers, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

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Join the 20s & 30s Mazamas the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! Location for November will be posted soon. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also a great time to find out what we’re up to, plan your next adventure, and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures; extra points for pics from Mazama events. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe!

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Monday, Nov. 3—Climb Night at ClubSport

Our monthly evening of rock climbing at ClubSport in Tigard. See the Climb Night page for details.

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Hike: 11.3 miles round-trip, Elevation gain: 2,535 feet. Pace: 2.5. Drive: 140 miles round-trip.

Trip fee: $2/$3 members/nonmembers. Suggested gas donation: 10 cents per mile. Bring rain gear and lunch. Meet at the southeast corner of Gateway Transit Center. Depart at 8AM. No trailhead pass required. Leader: Adonay Solleiro. Email the leader to sign up. Please read Hiking Tips information for gear checklists and expectations for participants. Advance signup required. Please contact leader to sign up.

Monday, Dec. 1—Climb Night at ClubSport; 6:30 p.m.

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One of the premier day-hiking loops on Mount St. Helens. This trail offers an excellent loop opportunity through a continually changing volcanic landscape, and you get it all on this hike: old-growth forest, big-time views, alpine splendor, dramatic canyons, meadows and creeks. But it also mostly blew up 33 years ago, so here you get to see the results of that massive eruption.

Hike: 10.6 miles round-trip, Elevation gain: 3,800 feet. Pace: 2.5. Drive: 70 miles round-trip.

Trip fee: $2/$3 members/nonmembers. Suggested gas donation: 10 cents per mile. Bring rain gear and lunch. Meet at the southeast corner of Gateway Transit Center. Depart at 8 a.m. NW Forrest Pass required. Leader: Adonay Solleiro. Email the leader to sign up. Please read Hiking Tips information for gear checklists and expectations for participants. Advance signup required. Please contact leader to sign up.

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Sunday, Nov. 2—Hike: Sheep Canyon Loop

The hike starts from the Elowah Falls Trailhead in the John B Yeon State Park parking lot. The first mile of the trail doesn’t climb too steeply, but then continues up the Nesmith Point Trail, where switchbacks are the norm, and they’re pretty steep! You’ll earn several viewpoints as rewards for your climbing, including views of Adams, Mount St. Helens, the south face of Beacon Rock, and most of the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge. After about two miles of heavy climbing, things get a little easier.

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There is no better place to catch the vibrant fall colors than Silver Falls State Park in Silverton, OR. Bring your cameras for what promises to be a great hike along the banks of Silver Creek. We will be hiking the Trail of Ten Falls where we see ten spectacular waterfalls, a number of which we will be able to walk behind including the popular 177 foot South Falls. The trees along the creek should be at their peak fall colors. Meet at the Gateway Park and Ride (SE corner of the ground level of the garage) at 8:30 a.m. 8.5 miles, 300 ft, Dr. 102. $5 per car Oregon State Park Fee applies. Leader: Jessica Lackey. Advance signup required. Please contact leader to sign up.

Nesmith Point is the highest point along the cliffs lining the Gorge. This extremely steep hike is a good stamina builder and offers much to the hiking enthusiast, like sore leg muscles, pounding heart, gasping lungs and tripping feet.

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Saturday, Nov. 1—Hike: Silver Falls State Park/Trail of Ten Falls

Saturday, Nov. 29—Hike: Nesmith Point

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The days may be getting shorter, but that doesn’t mean that 20s and 30s Mazamas are slowing down at all! Here are some opportunities to get outdoors, and climb indoors, as autumn winds down. More events will always be added on our website, mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s/, and check out our Meetup page, www.meetup.com/Adventurous-YoungMazamas/, for the latest events!

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The 20s and 30s Mazamas (formerly AYM) lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

Welcome New Mazamas!

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20s & 30s Mazamas

Harry Barker-Fost— Old Snowy Andrew Bauer— Mt. Adams Liz Crowe— South Sister Paul Del Vecchio— Kilimanjaro Ghislain Gressard— South Sister Melissa Guarin— Old Snowy Julia Haykin— Mt. St. Helens William Hinkle— South Sister Ike Kendrick— Mt. Rainier Anu Khaira— Mt. St. Helens Kiska Kosakowski— Mt. Hood Brit Laurenti— South Sister Joey Mccoy— Mt. St. Helens Donald Mccoy— Mt. St. Helens Tom Noonan— Mt. St. Helens Sam O’Leary— South Sister Michael Pajunas— Mt. Rainier Madelyn Poehlein— Mt. Adams Matthew Powell— Mt. St. Helens Molly Pratt— Mt. St. Helens David Pritchett— Kilimanjaro Austin Schutz— South Sister Ben Sheppard— Mt. Baker Brandon Stumpf— South Sister Jennifer Tucker— South Sister Mary Vansteenberg— Mt. St. Helens Spencer Walker— Pamier Mountain Kristen Wiest— Mt. St. Helens Gene Wilcox— Mt. St. Helens Samuel Zeigler— Mt. Adams

Hike Leaders Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running? Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps—become a Mazama Member, lead a provisional activity and get First Aid certified.

November/2014—21

Mazama Families

by Charles Blanke The Families Committee wants to warn readers that this month’s column is a bit demonstrative. While highlighting recent and upcoming activities, as always, we wanted to delve into the reasons underlying the formation of the committee, as well highlight some of the benefits it offers to committee members and the Mazamas as a whole.

Needless to say, many Mazama members have young children. New parents soon learn that it is quite difficult to continue activities one pursued when childless, especially if they take a significant amount of time and/or add to other obligations taking you away from your family (e.g., work, travel). Thus, many outdoor enthusiasts essentially give up hiking, backpacking, alpine events, etc. when they have kids—for periods of months to years. While one can theoretically bring one’s children along on selected hikes or climbs, it is hard to make sure the necessary support is there, and that the children have the necessary skill-set to be safe. And, of course, it is important the kids like the activities instead of merely finding them to be a grind. In other words, they must be specifically geared to a child’s interest and again set of abilities.

Enter the Mazamas Families Committee. Since its inception, this group has now offered hundreds of outdoor activities (hikes, climbs, snow camping, backpacking trips, etc.), social/ skill building events (e.g., kids’ climb nights), and a variety of educational opportunities (movement class, Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101)). I can personally attest that the committee has achieved one of its goals-that of allowing members to re-engage with the outdoors through participating in activities or serving as assistants/students. I have spent more than 25 nights in a sleeping bag this year, three times more during than the first 6 years of my daughter’s life combined. Of course, the activities may have been slightly different in nature or at least difficulty than what I would have done with other Mazama groups, but the fact is, I got outside, and I had a great time with my kid. She has enjoyed it too.

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little steps lead to BIG STEPS

Other benefits have been noted as well. Children clearly are more engaged when other children are present-my daughter again likes hiking with other Families’ members much more than hitting the Gorge with just me. Importantly, parents in FC are imparting their love of the outdoors to their kids at an early age. These kids will almost certainly be more engaged Mazama members when they are older. The skills they are learning now will serve them in good stead to become the next generation of trail and climb leaders. This, quite simply, is healthy for the club.

Speaking of activities, the outdoor FM101 field session last month featured a second trip to Horsethief Butte.

Two days were spent rappelling, belaying from above, and traveling on some pretty monstrous fixed lines. Again, I can attest to the fact kids and adults alike had a great time. Other upcoming events of note: The Hamilton Mountain Loop hike on Nov. 11 (register at tinyurl.com/HamiltonNov-2014), the Christmas Ornament Trail hike on Nov. 22 (tinyurl.com/ Ornaments-Nov-2014) and the Ten Falls hike on Dec. 13 (tinyurl. com/Silver-Falls-2014).

To join our email reminder and update list, send us a note at: families@mazamas.org.

To view more activities and/or sign up, visit www.mazamafamilies.

Top: Charles Blanke rappelling at Horsethief org. See you and your Butte. Photo by Andrea McKee; Erik kids outside soon!

Rotherham belaying Sam O’Leary (Jake

Norton cheerleading) Entrance Crack, Horsethief. Photo by Bob Murphy.

Oregon Mountain Community Backcountry & Nordic Ski Expo

November 15th, 2014 10 am -6 pm Save

2975 NE Sandy Blvd.

503-227-1038

20% on any item in the store Saturday only

FEATURED GEAR: SKI BINDINGS ALPINE TOURING SKIS BOOTS / POLES CLIMBING SKINS M’S & w’S APPAREL AVALANCHE BEACONS BC BACKPACKS NORDIC TOURING SKIS NORDIC SKATE SKIS INDUSTRY REPS WILL BE ON HAND DURING EVENT

USED GEAR SALE Select Returns, warranties, Rental Equipment and Consignment Gear

Visit our website or call store for complete details

In-Store only, limited to stock on hand while supplies last.

November/2014—23

by Henry Samson, Class of 2016

Whitman College Glacier Mountaineering Class

The Fall 2014 semester for Glacier Mountaineering students at Whitman College in Walla Walla, Washington began with a twist.

Throughout the first week of introductions to new classes and settling into living spaces, we geared up for an ice-climbing trip to Mt. Hood. For many it was the first time ice climbing and being on an alpine glacier. After preparation and summer-long wondering about the course, the high mountain air on Mt. Hood hit our noses and brains.

How delightful was the view of Hood and burned forest on the sunset drive up to Cloud Cap Campground. Our minds were relaxed from readings and labs, and focus shifted to the new challenges of climbing and glacier travel.

Glacier Mountaineering class trips are led by the course instructor, and Whitman College Outdoor Program Director, Brien Sheedy. On the Mt. Hood trip he co-led with two other Mazamas, Tom Piekarz and Terry Donahe, two

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mountaineers well familiar with the region and willing to instruct in the backcountry.

They led a crash course on techniques for proper crampon travel and using ice screws to make V-threads. Up on Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier we set up ice anchors and top-roped down into and climbed up out of crevasses.

The beautiful view from the Eliot got us all excited about high places and the possibilities of mountaineering.

During two long days of climbing and scrambling in plastic boots and crampons we shared fun, challenging and exciting moments. Many good laughs were had under the starry night sky over our headlamp-lit picnic table kitchen.

Our second trip, two weeks later, was to Mt. Baker, Wa. where we made it to the summit and back to the Climber’s Camp in eight hours and forty-five minutes on our

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second day there! When on Baker’s nearly 10,800 ft. summit we huddled in celebration and took photographs that captured an elated team of resilient, cooperative friends.

The Whitman College Fall 2014 Glacier Mountaineering class keeps the “stoke” high.

Our learning experiences have motivated plans to revive our college’s mountaineering club, take part in Mazama courses, and set our sights on new challenges. Mt. St. Helens awaits the class in midOctober. The laughs, meals, miles, and wise words spoken from experience by our teachers will always be cherished.

Ice Climbing Skill-builder 2014

by Wim Aarts

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fter the disappointing cancellation of last year’s Ice Climbing class, this year’s sessions on Oct. 4 and 5 encountered nearly perfect conditions.

The high pressure area settled over the Pacific NW and blessed us with sunny and cool temperatures at 7,500 ft. on the Eliot Glacier. The planning for this skill-builder was done at a late stage to give us an opportunity to scout the Eliot Glacier and potential practice areas during the Advanced Snow and Ice class.

While assisting this year’s ASI class I was put more at ease that we could get a group of participants from the Cloud Cap Saddle trailhead up to the glacier in a safe manner. Access to the glaciers on Mt. Hood over the years has become more difficult, with increased melt and retreat of ice. Left behind are rocks, boulders and a lot of frozen dirt over residual ice­—not a recipe for easy strolling as care has to be taken during ascent and descent to the climbing area.

With 33 applications all within a time frame of four days of registration, scheduling was started and I decided to try to offer 4 sessions over two consecutive weekends. This shows again the desire and willingness of Mazamas and the general public to further technical climbing skills in the types of classes that can be taken within short timeframes: another verification that declared intentions with the strategic plan and the investments in gear and skills are on the right track.

The current skill-builder came to life after ideas from John Godino were put in front of the ASI subcommittee. This skill-builder came up not too long after ASI started their newer style of teaching and approaching ice climbing and rescue from the perspective of modern ice climbing. Current instructors and alumni of ASI since 2011 have incorporated the latest instructional techniques and methods taught by guides from Rigging for Rescue out of Ouray, CO. Students of ASI and the Ice skill-builder are now the benefactors of the considerable efforts that have gone into building these new skills, supported by council, Climbing Committee and executed by the ASI subcommittee members.

Off we went; on Oct. 2 the students participated in a 2-hour lecture with videos of ice climbing techniques, movements and tool swinging as well as a short ice climbing demo on the wall-mounted Ice Holdz by Justin Brady. The enthusiasm for this class was clear, many students stayed after the lecture, swung tools into the Ice Holdz and asked questions.

On Saturday Oct. 4 at 6:45 a.m. the first group arrived at Cloud Cap. The trek up to the Eliot Glacier moraine and the climbers’ cairn at 7,000 ft. started promptly at 7:10 a.m. Helmets were pulled out of packs for the descent of the lateral moraine and a way through the rubble and boulders towards the glacier was scouted. A reasonable path through the moraine was found and after a 2-hour hike and scramble we found ourselves at the edge of the Eliot Glacier.

Entering a glacier with wide open crevasses and huge serac fields in front of the impressive north face of Mt. Hood always feels like entering a frozen wonderland.

The class quickly made it to the serac practice area where a suitable deep crevasse was found for top-roping. We spent the initial part of the class in a shallow crevasse practicing kicking and swinging, and the correct way to balance on front points in steep terrain. Even for rock climbers, finding the initial stance on front points, and not lifting heels are the crucial points where “it clicks” for people. Suddenly there is ice climbing instead of ice bashing and slipping.

After these first 2 hours, anchors were set at the crevasse edge and the real fun began. Top-rope belays were set up to enable the belayer and the instructors to observe and coach the ice climbers in the crevasse.

Steeper, higher and more brittle glacier ice needed to be scaled if you wanted to get out of the hole again. This seemed to be everyone’s intention and after many, many laps it was very clear how much progress was made by the students towards mastering basic ice-climbing skills.

Photos (clockwise, from upper left): Ice bouldering practice; The rigorous approach hike; Our playground for the day; Putting it all together, climbing out of a crevasse. Photos: Wim Aarts.

Unfortunately the weather window closed before the second weekend session.

A big thank you to the instructors that joined me on these two days: Karin Mullendorf, Lisa Ripps, Keith Campbell, Katie Mills and Justin Brady. Thanks as well to the folks who stood ready for the second weekend: Lisa Ripps, Chris Simmons and Tyler Bax.

November/2014—25

by Pam Monheimer

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admit it; I was the woman lost in the Columbia River Gorge on January 29, 2014. I had been trained in mountaineering, avalanche basics, CPR and Mountain First Aid (MFA). At first I was embarrassed and horrified that my friends and my Mazama acquaintances would learn of my debacle.

When I was finally located, rescued, been transported out and, at 11 pm, arrived at the Sheriff’s van to be debriefed, I was sick to see that the Angel’s Rest parking lot was packed to capacity with rescue teams, ambulances, police cars, and, of course, the four news channel crews. I caused a lot of people a lot of trouble and worry. I am sorry.

I am grateful to those who helped rescue me, and to the Mazamas for providing me the mountaineering training that kept me alive.

I want to tell my story as I think I can help fellow hikers and perhaps save a life, especially with colder, wetter weather and shorter days upon us. As I’ve been told more than once, “nobody plans on getting lost.” Not even on a short hike.

In the past 18 months I have hiked over 2800 miles, climbed atop and skied numerous mountain peaks in the Cascades and Olympics. I have hiked and climbed the entire Haute Route in France and Switzerland.

Getting lost for me in the Gorge is like getting lost in my own backyard. I know it like the back of my hand. When I drive Highways 84 and 35, I can name all the mountains, hills, waterfalls and trails to myself. The Columbia River Gorge is in my DNA. I frequently hike with friends and, as we travel at different paces, it is not unusual for us to split up with plans to meet at a designated place and time. I was hiking with my friend, William, a world-class runner and climber with whom I often hike both the Gorge and Mt Hood. It was 34 degrees with a light rain falling. We had a few hours to 26 —Mazama Bulletin

spend hiking in the Gorge. We started out earlier. Once my situation hit the news, together in the late morning in a remote area friends and family called, texted and sent a few miles behind Angel’s Rest. We were Facebook messages. By 3:15 p.m. my phone in a place I’ve hiked a more than a dozen was dead. The breeze had blown into the times before. William and my vizsla puppy, famous Gorge gusts. Luckily, I was wearing Tüz, went running ahead, and we planned the correct clothing and boots for the day. I to meet back at my car at 2:30 p.m. I was had a waterproof jacket, pants and Gore-Tex listening to a book on my iPhone and was lined hiking boots. I was also wearing a down so engrossed I didn’t realize how much time sweater underneath. All that was fine for the had passed. When I noted the time, I realized first few hours, but now it was 4:30 p.m. and I needed to quickly head back. I cut through I was soaked, shivering and darkness was the woods, off trail with my compass in hand settling in. How long could my rescue take? to get back to the main trail that would take Rescue had had my coordinates for over two me back to my car. After 20 minutes I still hours. hadn’t found any trail. I thought I was in a I went into survival mode. I dug a hole totally unfamiliar area, didn’t recognize any for shelter next to a large downed tree with surroundings and was among fallen trees, deep my gloved hands, filling it with leaves, small brush, and on a very steep slope. The light branches, pine needles and anything else rain had turned heavier and it was becoming my filthy, frozen hands could carry. I then quite breezy. I was worried, I knew I couldn’t attempted to build a cover made from larger be very far from a trail, but I was scared branches to try to shield myself from the enough with the changing conditions that I rain and wind until rescue arrived. For a few called 911 then quickly lost the connection, desperate brief moments I considered making as cell service was iffy at best in the area. I a run for the trail in the remaining daylight. called twice more and finally made contact Had I done so, I fear there might have been a with the Multnomah County Sheriff, as less fortunate ending to my adventure. It was my call had been answered by Clackamas odd to be alone in the ebony forest with only County Emergency. I explained that I was the sound of the wind and rain. I had no fear trauma & PTSD in Multnomah County. After describing of being alone, I had passed survival training.

Trauma & PTSD my location, I emailed and texted my exact As I lay in my dugout in the pitch black, no Anxiety & Depression Anxiety Depression coordinates from my GPS at&2:39 p.m. The moon powerful enough to shine through the Addictions Addictions sheriff assured me help was nearby telling me, Stress awful inky, rainy, gloom, I realized I did not Stress “they had found my car, William, and Tüz, have my “10 Essentials” that should be taken EMDR and that the wholeEMDR world was coming to help find me.” The most important thing I did after that emergency call was to stay MA, LPC, LMHC put, a very important Mazama lesson. Search and Rescue had my exact location. I paced and Supporting the health, well being, and did jumping jacks to stay warm. potential of Portland residents In another text the sheriff asked me how much battery time a PTSD anxiety de was left on my phone now; traum pre ssion MDR 25 percent, yikes, it was over addictions stress E 503.308.9408 50 percent just a few minutes

Drew Prochniak

www.dprochniak.com

on every hike. BCEP and the Mazamas had drilled into my head over the past year that those essentials should always be in my pack. Just a week earlier I was sitting on the summit of Mount St Helens with my larger backpack filled with these 10 Essentials. I didn’t think that it was necessary to repack my smaller pack for a few short hours of hiking, but then again, I hadn’t planned on getting lost either. Thus I had no headlamp, no extra clothing or waterproof matches, or any other useful tool that might help me remain safer and warmer until help arrived.

All I had was my small daypack with a slowly decreasing amount of water and a lone protein bar.

Eventually I had to stop the jumping jacks and pacing, which had kept my muscles moving. The darkness and uneven terrain could prove treacherous. I lay down in fetal position in my wet, muddy hole to try and stay warm. I hugged the earth for warmth. My teeth were chattering so hard I had to put a cloth between my teeth and by now I also had a raging headache.

After a while I realized I couldn’t move my curled legs or arms, they were both totally cramped. My mind was playing games, I didn’t know if I was awake or asleep. So this was hypothermia, I thought. It had been five hours since I realized I had become lost and placed my 911 calls. Where was the cavalry? I thought something had gone wrong, perhaps the GPS coordinates had been incorrect, there had been a landslide, or worse a change in plan with daytime rescue. I needed to stay alive until morning so I could get myself out in the daylight. Then I had the realization that I might not make it. I was too cold to cry. I thought about my family and my friends. All the small stuff I wasted time and worry on. All the things I never did or said. I truly thought this would be where I died.

By 7:40 p.m. I was so darn miserable but something inside me refused to give up. It took all my strength, balance and my huge pain threshold to stand up, as I knew I had to move if I were to stay alive. I jumped in place and screamed “I am not going to die here!”

In the distance I saw faint light. I remembered my GPS watch had a backlight. I flashed it as I jumped. I was screaming help and hello to no avail, as the storm was too loud, and flashing my light. A few minutes later the faint light came closer. I waved my light frantically and the rescuers waved Eugene theirs back. It took over 30 minutes for LMT 16438

the five-man search and rescue team to reach me. I learned there were four teams that had started out at different points looking for me as well as a sheriff’s “quick response team” comprised of two runners who were out looking for me. It was the quick response team that found William and Tüz. They ran nearly 15 miles looking for me and as I later learned, they came within 1.5 city blocks of where I was calling for help.

My rescuers went into action, following the same protocols I had learned in MFA. I was so relieved and grateful to this group who saved me. They carried the largest packs I’d ever seen. They offered me blankets, dry clothes, water, food, etc. I was too cold and shivering so hard I couldn’t fathom changing clothes; they persisted and then wrapped me in the blankets. They then had to study maps to figure the safest way out. We went through thick brush, fallen trees and down a steep slope and we still had to walk a few miles to one of the two vans that had made it to the fallen tree a mile from the start of the trail.

One of the vans then got stuck in the mud, which added more than an additional hour to my evening. I used the time to get to know this quality group of volunteers who had braved the elements to find me. Some were still in high school. I learned that they had to pay for their own gear and have made it a personal goal to support Portland Mountain Rescue with an annual donation.

William and I went back a few days later with the sun shining, a layer of fresh snow dusting the trail, and a GPS unit with my coordinates plugged in to see where I had gone wrong and “get back up on that horse right away.” I was fearful of going off trail again and didn’t want one scary incident to ruin my love of exploring. It was bizarre to see the shelter I had built myself, and understand that I had done the right thing by staying put, as the terrain was steep with lots of fallen trees. I’ve learned to carry orange trail tape for when I want to explore new areas and mark turns, and I always bring my 10 Essentials. I have a set of those important, potentially life-saving items in every backpack I own. I never leave home without them.

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Trail Trips Adventures Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas. org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions. To lead a hike in December, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

Street Rambles

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp.

These rambles average 4-8 miles, 5001,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves promptly at 6 p.m

Special Portland Alpine Fest Ramble—Nov. 3 The ramble leaves from the MMC at 5 p.m. and rambles 5 miles with a stop on top of Mt. Tabor, returning to the MMC in time for Veterans Movie Night at 7 p.m. Bring a snack to eat atop Mt. Tabor as we overlook the city.

Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos.

Join at http://www.meetup.com/ mazama-hiking/ 28 —Mazama Bulletin

HK A1.5 Nov 01 (Sat) Salmon River Trail (Lower). Andrea Kowalski alkcomm@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. From the main Old Salmon River Trailhead, the trail quickly descends into deep forest, and soon traverses above a quiet stretch of the Salmon River and crosses a string of log bridges over mostly seasonal streams. Beyond the Green Canyon campground, the trail curves up to the main trailhead for the popular Salmon River Trail at the 2.5 mile mark, the turnaround point for the hike. We’ll stop here for a rest/ snack, and then head back. Email leader to reserve a spot (held until 8:55 a.m.). 5 miles 200 ft. Dr. 82 TH Welches Hoodland Plaza: Coffee Brewsters: 68224 E 9 a.m.

HK B2 Nov 01 (Sat) Falls Creek (Upper & Lower). Regis Krug regis_krug@mentor.com. Let’s amble in to one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Northwest. You’ll want to bring your camera and tripod for this hike. 8.4 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 90 Gateway Transit Center 7:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Nov 01 (Sat) Hunchback Mt.(Great Pyramid). Sojo Hendrix sojo42@gmail.com. RSVP signup.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Ghoulishly strenuous post-Halloween hike along the Hunchback Mountain roller coaster ridgeline to the Great Pyramid. Short scramble down for views weather permitting. Bring leftover candy to share!

9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 76 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 02 (Sun) Gillette Lake. Richard Getgen teambears@ frontier.com. Hike from Bonneville to large lake near base of Table Mountain. 5 miles 300 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Nov 02 (Sun) Cape Horn.

Bill Stein 503-830-0817. Note the time change! A new Gorge classic, known for its proximity to Portland and its stellar views. Hike the full loop for one of your final times before it closes for half the year in February. There’s a lot of exposure; trekking poles are required. 7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Nov 02 (Sun) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls).

Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Maybe we can find some early season snow on a Gorge classic. Or just early season rain. Prepare for either and cash in on the conditioning you’ve built up over the climbing season. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 04 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leave from REI–Pearl (NW 14th & Johnson) starting at 6 p.m. Bring headlamp.

HK C2 Nov 05 (Wed) Dublin Lake. Dyanne Foster 503-2678937. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will go Irish for the day: bring your poles and rain gear just in case of wet weather. Nice gradual grade up to the turn off to the lake, then down (and up) the trail for the lake. 13.8 miles 3,760 ft. Dr. 70 TH MMC 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 06 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK C2 Nov 07 (Fri) Green Canyon/Devils Peak/ Salmon River Canyon Hike. 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness hike begins at Green Canyon TH up to Hunchback Mtn trail and up to Devils Peak for lunch, which includes a decommissioned fire lookout and good views. Continue down the Hunchback Trail to Kinzel Lake TR and Salmon River Canyon TR and back to where we started. This is a difficult hike and you need to be in excellent condition to participate. 15.7 miles 3,400 ft. Dr. 122 miles TH MMC 7:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 Nov 08 (Sat) Round Lake. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. A rain-or-shine hike, can vary depending on conditions, the waterfalls should be terrific. Round Lake is in Camus but you won’t know you are near civilization after the first 1/4 mile. Back to Gateway by 2:30 p.m. 5 miles 400 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 9 a.m.

HK B2 Nov 08 (Sat) PCT-Pacific Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@ gmail.com. This out-and-back hike follows the Pacific Crest Trail from Cascade Locks to Pacific Falls with a stop at the interesting Herman Creek Pinnacles on the way out, and a side trip to beautiful Dry Creek Falls on the return. 7.3 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 78 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Nov 09 (Sun) Cascade Locks West Loop. Carolyn Eckel 503-251-5939. Hike first then lunch afterwards at the Charburger. We’ll go west on Tr. 400 then through the tunnel under the freeway and back to Cascade Locks on the paved path. 3 miles 100 ft. Dr. 72 Gateway 9 a.m.

HK B1.5 Nov 09 (Sun) Maxwell Butte. Jess Beauchemin 503-4460803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike up to this viewpoint of Three Fin-

gered Jack near Santiam Pass. Walk through old growth forest, catch views of the B&B fire, and look for remnants of the old lookout.

Prepare for muddy and/or snowy trail conditions. 9.6 miles 2,500 ft.

Dr. 240 SnoPark contact leader to arrange carpool 8 a.m. MU SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 11 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK B2 Nov 12 (Wed) Indian Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. 9 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 160 TH MMC 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 13 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK A2 Nov 14 (Fri) Owl Point.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Exploratory. We will explore some little-known trails and viewpoints on the north side of Mt Hood. Written up in Matt Reeder’s book Off the Beaten Trail. 5 miles 800 ft. Dr. 140 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1 Nov 15 (Sat) Waterfalls, Views and Historic Highway.

Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456.

Hike some along the newly reconstructed and paved Columbia River Gorge Historic Highway.

Then take a stony trail to 289foot Elowah Falls. Continue to a nice high view of the Gorge and possibly to lovely Upper McCord Creek Falls. The last part of the trail was blasted out of solid rock.

Slower pace. 4 miles 600 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 10 a.m.

HK B2 Nov 15 (Sat) Dog Mountain Loop. David Nelson 503-657-4058.

Popular Gorge hike, easy access, beautiful views, and short drive from Portland. We will go up the more challenging, center trail and back down the East Trail. This is a late fall hike so, please be prepared for any and all conditions, including rain, possible snow and/ or driving wind. No cotton clothes.

Bring food, snacks, water and 10 essentials. Traction devices and poles may be a plus. 7.2 miles 2,900 ft.

Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov 15 (Sat) Wauna Point. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@ hotmail.com. Difficult. Exploratory. Wilderness—Limit 12. Wauna Point (NOT Wauna Viewpoint) is the ridge above Bonneville, requires much more time and effort to walk up, and the final section is not for pets, beginners, or the poorly equipped. 10.4 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 70 Gateway 8 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions.

Contact with leader for details. prior to the day of the trip is mandatory.

A Trail Trips group at the McNeil Shelter on the flanks of Mt. Hood.

Photo: Terry Lawson.

HK A2 Nov 16 (Sun) Lacamas and Round Lakes. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This hike uses a shuttle. We first follow the Lacamas Heritage Trail along Lacamas Lake towards Round Lake, and then explore the trails in Lacamas Lake Regional Park near Round Lake, visiting 3 falls. 7 miles 500 ft. Dr. 30 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B1.5 Nov 16 (Sun) Wahkeena-Angels Rest. Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. We are hiking in a very pretty part of the Gorge with waterfalls and long stretches through the woods with its silence. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Nov 16 (Sun) Wauneka Ridge. Kirby Young 503-799-9930.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Adventure hike up a rarely explored ridge in the Gorge near McCord Creek for marvelous unique views and archaeological mysteries. The hike includes 3 miles of off-trail, gametrail, or user-path hiking, meaning there will be steep, brushy, and uneven footing at times. Includes wading McCord Creek twice, so alternate footwear recommended for water up to one’s knees. Be prepared in general for cold, wind, and rain. Return via McCord Creek and Nesmith Trails. 11 miles 4,000 ft.

Dr. 60 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 18 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK B2 Nov 19 (Wed) Flag and West Point. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Exploratory. The best of the Badger Creek Wilderness area in one day.

Hike through a mixture of west and east with Douglas firs, western red cedar, ponderosa pine and oaks. 9 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 175 TH MMC 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 20 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK C2 Nov 21 (Fri) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). Sherry Bourdin 503-314 2911. Wilderness—

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12.

Limit 12. This is a great workout with a forest service lookout tower at the summit. Could be snow, rain, or maybe even sun!! Good views on a nice day but will appreciate anything mother nature has for us.

Please call leader for details.. 8.2 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Nov 22 (Sat) Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. First we will hike the Carty Unit of Ridgefield NWS, the length of the hike being determined by saturation of the paths at lower levels of the trail. After lunch we will drive the River S unit and should see waterfowl galore. 5 miles 200 ft. Dr. 60 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov 22 (Sat) Nick Eaton Ridge Loop. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Difficult.

Exploratory. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Loop showcases lush forests, open vistas, and a rocky overlook in the Columbia River Gorge. Route gains more than 2,800 feet of elevation in the first 3.5 miles; be prepared!

14 miles 3,840 ft. Dr. 90 State Park Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Nov 23 (Sun) Benson Plateau (Herman Creek). Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ juno.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Our annual trek up the “easy” way to Benson Plateau. Varies from year to year—snow, dry, rain, cold—come and see what we’ve got. Raingear, trekking poles, layers, thermos full of something. See you there. 12.8 miles 3,720 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 25 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK B2 Nov 26 (Wed) Molalla River Trails. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Exploratory. We will explore the trail system on BLM land south of Molalla. Points of interest may include Annie’s cabin, Bear Woods Loop trial, Bobcat Trail and Squirrel Creek flats. 9 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 65 TH MMC 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Nov 27 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See Nov. 4 for details.

HK A1.5 Nov 27 (Thu) Latourell Falls Thanksgiving Day Loop. Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier. com or 503-665-6778. Hopefully, the weather will be dry enough for some serious leaf-kicking. Pass two pretty waterfalls on this wee gorge loop. Trekking poles might come in handy. Return to meeting place before noon. 2.3 miles 700 ft. Dr. 30 Lewis & Clark State Park 9 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 29 (Sat) Eagle Creek (High Bridge). Dan Smith 503-4088923. Great hike past punchbowl and 1.3 miles more. May go a little more to make it 8 miles. Autumn colors should be great! Please no cotton. 6.6 miles 700 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Nov 29 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Regis Krug regis_ krug@mentor.com. Classic Gorge hike to a great view of Bonneville Dam. If we have clear skies, we should have one of the nicest views of Mt. Adams in the Gorge. Let’s go out and work off that turkey and pumpkin pie. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft.

Dr. 88 TH Gateway Transit Center 7:30 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Nov 29 (Sat) Larch Mtn (Multnomah Falls). Gary Bishop gbish90@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Burn off a bit of that turkey and pumpkin pie on this great conditioning hike on a wellgraded trail. Several cascades and a wonderful view of Mt Hood if the weather cooperates. Might even be some early season snow. (Sign up at Gateway TC only.) 13.8 miles 4,020 ft ft. Dr. 48 TH Gateway TC 8:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov 30 (Sun) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Difficult.

Exploratory. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Excellent adventure hike for endurance. Be ready for any type of weather! 13.2 miles 4,160 ft. Dr. 88 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

MU=Hike is posted on Meetup.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members.

No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R– Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.”

Alcohol and firearms are not allowed.

Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

November/2014—29

Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: John Rettig Attending: Sojo Hendrix–president, Judith Baker–vice president, John Rettig–secretary, Steve Hooker–treasurer, Kate Evans, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber, and Lee Davis–Executive Director.

The meeting was called to order at 8:11 p.m. by President Sojo H. It was noted that a quorum was present.

The agenda was approved as written by consent.

Judith B. moved and Joan Z. seconded a motion to approve the minutes from the Sept. 9 Executive Council meeting. Motion carried 6-0-1, with John R. abstaining for reason of not being a director at the time.

The election results were delivered to the secretary by the Nominating Committee acting chair; results were read into the record. See sidebar for details.

Business Reports The Secretary’s September membership report was read into the record. See the Membership Report for full details.

The Treasurer’s Report was reviewed

by Steve H. As of Aug. 31, 2014, we have $512,580 cash available for general operations, and current total assets are $1,467,136. It was noted that there are upcoming classes and events that will bring in some income. Marty H. expressed some concern about the planned versus unplanned overage from the FY2014–15 approved budget, and after some dialog he agreed it could be taken offline with Jamie Anderson.

Lee D. gave his Executive Director’s report.

The Mazama Strategic Plan status was updated, and grant-funding from the Mazamas Foundation for specific projects within this plan was updated.

The Recreation Planning/Permitting initiative by REI had a meeting in Atlanta in early October coincident with the NOLS Risk Management Conference.

There are upcoming events and meetings throughout the fall: Oct. 14, 7 p.m. new council member training session; Oct.17–19: board retreat at Mt. Adams Lodge; Oct. 20: Discovery Night at the MMC; Nov. 3–8: Portland Alpine Festival and Ice Climbing Competition.

Recent events were recapped: Committee Chair Orientation; Reel Rock Film Tour; Lodge Gala; Youth Information Night; Wilderness 50th Anniversary Event.

Status of initiated projects was updated: Ice Wall (contract ready to execute, city permitting and pre-construction in progress); Beacon Film (fall filming in progress, 30 —Mazama Bulletin

Oct. 6, 2014

fundraising stalled); CISM/Nepal (Over $13,000 raised, coordination with KCC in progress, booking flights very soon) Old Business The next phase of contracting for the Ice Wall was discussed. A bid by EntrePrises for $20,621 for the engineering, design, materials, and installation was reviewed.

Steve H asked if this was all of the expenses, and if it was covered by budget allocations or pledges; answers were “no” (total is about $32,000), and “yes” (we have $29,000 in hand and $3,000 outstanding on the pledges)—and an administrator’s report will be put into next month’s EC packet. It was moved by John R and seconded by Marty H. to approve spending not more than $20,621 to implement this contract; motion passed 7–0.

The Portland Alpine Festival Summit celebration was discussed. The bid from the Oregon Convention Center was $2,000 for the room if we bought $18,000 catering; total $20,000. Lee emphasized that The Summit tickets will have to sell well to get the revenue to cover this cost, and there is therefore some risk exposure on this expenditure. Steve H. moved and Judith B. seconded a motion to approve this contract with Oregon Convention Center; motion passed 7–0.

The Nepal/CISM planned expenses were discussed. These are $4,900 airfare and $8,000 guide services, totaling $12,900. A budget plan from CISM is pending. Judith B. moved and Steve H. seconded a motion to approve $12,900 expenses for Nepal/ CISM; motion passed 7–0.

The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports from Conservation, CISM, Education, Families, Governing Docs, Library, Lodge, Nominating, Programs, Publications, and Research. John R. moved and Kate E. seconded a motion to accept the consent agenda as written; motion passed 7–0.

New Business Lee Davis outlined the EC Retreat Plan over the Oct. 17–19 weekend at Mt. Adams Ranch.

A proposed bank account transition from US Bank to Capital Pacific Bank was discussed, with a side-by-side service, feature, and cost comparison offered and incorporated herein by reference. The key difference was in services, not cost; we have had issues with US Bank, and it was felt that we will do much better with Capital Pacific, which works exclusively

with nonprofits. Kate E. moved and Steve H. seconded a motion to transition our accounts from US Bank to Capital Pacific Bank; motion passed 7–0.

The director vacancy in Executive Council caused by the resignation of Heather Campbell was discussed; we have the authority in the bylaws to fill vacancies.

Lee Davis noted that we had a previous precedent of offering the open position to the fourth place vote count at the most recent EC candidate election. Further discussion brought out points that we ought to consider how skill sets of present and new directors meshed, that we trusted Nominating Committee’s statement that all five candidates were well-qualified, and finally that we overall felt it important that we act before our retreat and training session so as to be inclusive with the new director.

It was moved by John R. and seconded by Kate E. to accept the resignation of Heather Campbell and to offer the remainder of her two-year term to Sunny Freeman; motion passed 7–0. It was agreed to hold this record open until Sojo H. could contact her and get her answer. [Per Sojo, the response was affirmative.]

An executive session was held regarding the 2014 Parker Cup recipient; minutes to be released after Nov. 8, 2014.

An executive session was held regarding the 2014 Honorary member; minutes not to be released.

We adjourned at 9:35 pm.

Summary of Election Results from Annual Meeting and Officer Election Session Number of votes cast 931 Member Election of Directors Daniel Bailey received 411 Sunny Freeman received 437 Marty Hanson received 588 (elected) Steve Hooker received 489 (elected) John Rettig received 573 (elected) Illegal votes 1 Number of votes 931 Member Election of Nominating Committee Larry Beck received 651 (elected) Michael Chacon received 595 (elected) Pam Rechel received 576 (elected) Executive Council Election of Officers (all offices uncontested) President Sojo Hendirx Vice President Judith Baker Secretary John Rettig Treasurer Steve Hooker

Time Warp 1914—100 Years Ago The 1914 Mazama Annual printed A Trip to the Silver Star Mountain by Alfred F. Parker. Now, a road, closed to the public, runs to the Top of Silver Star, but in 1914, this high point in the mountain range east of Vancouver was in a rough wilderness area. Parker had never found a map of the area and could find no one who had been on or near Silver Star. He and his brother, Aloysius, worked to learn more about the area with the hope of climbing Silver Star.

Parker finally located a crude map of Skamania County and another map of Columbia National Forest. Both showed Silver Star by name. The Forest map showed a ranger trail coming from the northwest and out the southwest. The Parker brothers decided to enter from the nortwest by way of Moulton, the nearest point of the Yacolt branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad. They left Vancouver at 5:30 p.m. on July 3, 1914 and arrived at Moulton 90 minutes later, armed with sleeping bags and a three-day supply of food. They were advised to follow the

by Jack Grauer

logging flume to avoid much climbing and distance. This was a precarious route over weak wooden planking as much as 60 feet above ground. After reaching the sawmill at the end of the flume, they climbed a hill and caught a magnificent view of Silver Star with its jagged summit in the sky and dead timber on its rocky face shining as white as snow in the setting sun. A short walk led them to a farmhouse where they learned that this really was Silver Star. They tromped along a rough road and camped at 9:30 at Grouse Creek at the mountain’s base.

In the morning, another farmer directed them to his own private trail. Every day, this farmer hiked part of the way up Silver Star to gather cascara bark. The Parker brothers hiked up a brushy area and at 10:00 a.m. came to a shoulder where they had a clear view of the peak. Hiking upward, they saw the fields of Clark County to the west and rolling forested hills to the north and east. Clouds parted at times to reveal St. Helens and Adams on the horizon. The trail led through rocky, grass-covered fields of grass and mountain

flowers. A little before noon, they stood on the summit of Silver Star.

Clouds immersed them in fog at times as they started back down the trail. Soon, they found remains of a camp. The trail disappeared and troubles began. To the east was the face of Baldy, connected to Silver Star by a long ridge. They would go to Baldy and find another way out. A difficult scramble over rough rock and dead trees led to a trail. Soon after heading south on the wooded ridge, the trail disappeared.

Underbrush grew thicker as they passed by holes dug by gold prospectors. Would it be better to follow the stream in the canyon below? No! They followed it four or five miles before darkness dictated making camp. Up at dawn on July 5, they waded the stream and finally reached an old dam at 9:30. A U.S. geological map showed their location. An hour later, they met people and continued a leisurely walk across the Washougal Valley to Mt. Pleasant. There, they caught the evening train to Portland.

Note: In later years, roads led to the top of Silver Star from both north and south.

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November/2014—31