Mazama Magazine January 2017

January 2017

Vol. 99 | No.1

Bulletin

The Volunteer Issue Vera Dafoe: Remarkable Woman & Inspiring Leader Bringing Kids to the Mountain Rebolting at the Crags Year of Success at Madrone Wall

2 MAZAMAS

Feature Articles Basic Climbing Education Program 2017, p. 7 Volunteer Vistas, p. 8 A New Role for an Old Hand, p. 12 Volunteer Pathways: Bringing Kids to the Mountain, p. 16 Office Volunteers: Familiar Faces & Voices, p. 21 Volunteering at the Crag: A Look Into Rebolting, p. 22 Vera Defoe: Remarkable Woman & Mazama Leader, p. 24 A Year of Success at Madrone Wall, p. 27

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Membership Report, p. 11 Mazama Lodge, p. 15 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 14 Classic Mazamas, p. 15 Evening Travel Programs, p. 18 Outings, p. 20 Trail Trips, p. 28 Executive Council, p. 30

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 10 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 29 Centered & Balanced Pilates, p. 26 Centered in Motion, p. 29 Classifieds, p. 5 Climb Max Mountaineering, p.11 Embark Adventures, p. 21 Evergreen Curling, p. 14 Green Trails Maps, p. 31 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Shop, p. 32 Next Adventure, p. 13 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 19 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, p. 5

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK • Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@ mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month (Jan); starting in February 2017, Executive Council will meet at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of the month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, and Michael Vincerra. (publications_group@mazamas.org) Cover: Vera Dafoe near summit Les Aiquilles des Petits, Charmoz, France August 1976. Read more about Vera on page 24.

A hiker on their way up to Indian Point in the Columbia River Gorge. Photo: Tim Donner.

JANUARY 2017 3

Thank You

VOLUNTEERS

Dear friends and members, Every year when our winter programs start up I think back about a longtime Mazama and incredible leader, Klindt Vielbig. Klindt was the classic Mazama volunteer. He attended events and committee meetings every month for decades, single-handedly organized our evening travel programs, taught Nordic and backcountry skiing, and invested time in helping to build our Library and Historical Collections.

Klindt wasn’t just a Mazama volunteer but also a community-wide volunteer.

He was a charter member of the Oregon Nordic Club, wrote guidebooks, and even mapped and created many of the trails we use when skiing around and below timberline on Mt. Hood.

Klindt passed away in 2010 at age 81, but each winter when the snow falls in the mountains, I remember this person who would gleefully walk into my office and show me a hand drawn map of a new “incredible!” cross-country ski trail he had scoped out that morning while solo backcountry skiing in the wilderness of Mt. Hood National Forest.

So many of our community organizations run on the power, dedication, and enthusiasm of volunteers like Klindt; ranging from city civic organizations, to fire and emergency response units, to many of our schools, and all of the nonprofits that work to relieve human suffering and to enrich the human experience.

The Mazamas depends on volunteers to provide many of the programs and services members are promised when they join, all with the objective of helping people get outside and learn to responsibly enjoy and care for the mountain environment.

The major volunteer call, especially in the winter and early spring, is for people to help teach our classes and to lead student and activity groups into the mountains.

Other unsung and sometimes unseen volunteers at the Mazamas include those who volunteer with our historical collections programs and youth outreach work, those who help maintain the lodge and the Mazama Mountaineering 4 MAZAMAS

Center, and those who do trail or crag maintenance and work behind the scenes on our conservation and recreation access initiatives. We have volunteers that come once a week, once a month, or even just once a year to help us continue providing the programs and events that our members and community love.

We also have many volunteers who work to hold together and engage our members as a community. Those volunteers that lead and organize hikes, trips, and events for our Families, AYM, and Classics groups, and of course, our longtime BCEP group leaders who engage new students each year and encourage and nominate many of them into volunteer leadership roles with the Mazamas.

Volunteers will tell you that the experience is its own reward; about the incredible feeling you get when seeing a student rappel for the first time, or when you can share with someone new the majesty of the Columbia Gorge from rare places like Cape Horn, Catherine Creek, or Indian Point.

But we know that we need to do more to recognize and appreciate all of our volunteers at the Mazamas. So, in May of this year we will be holding a new, internal event designed specifically for our members and volunteers. Members and recent students will have the opportunity to thank the volunteers that have helped them in the months and year before, and to appreciate the time and skills our volunteers contribute to the Mazamas and our broader community.

As our Vice President Chris Kruell reported last month, this event will show “the incredible spirit of volunteerism at Mazamas” and will publicly recognize the time, energy, and passion our volunteers contribute to the Mazamas, in addition to recognizing one of the strongest

As our Vice President Chris Kruell reported last month, this event will show “the incredible spirit of volunteerism at Mazamas” and will publicly recognize the time, energy, and passion our volunteers contribute to the Mazamas, in addition to recognizing one of the strongest communities anyone could find of people who love to play in and protect the mountains. communities anyone could find of people who love to play in and protect the mountains.

I want to thank the hundreds of you each year who come out to volunteer for an hour, a day, or a weekend each year. Thank you for helping us get people outside and share our love of the mountains with everyone we can.

And I especially want to thank those volunteers that are still with us after all these years, those volunteers that continue to take a leadership role year after year, and those volunteers that by their dedicated service and passion inspire new students to step up each year as volunteers and leaders themselves.

I wish you all a wonderful new year,

Lee Davis Executive Director

Volunteer Opportunities LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS ONGOING Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks.

Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests.

Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to sign up or learn more.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES

ONGOING The Mazama Families program offers regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor.

Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Jason Linse, motoxerdad@gmail.com.

STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED! JAN. 17 AT 6:30 P.M. Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! Come out to our meet and greet on Jan 17 at 6:30 p.m. For more information, please contact Marketing & Communications Director Sarah Bradham, sarah@mazamas.org.

OUTREACH TEAM LEADER

ONGOING Are you passionate about the Mazamas?

Are you great at organizing people?

Then perhaps you are our next Outreach Team Leader! This is a great volunteer opportunity for someone who is outgoing, has a lot of connections, and wants to give back to the organization. Interested in learning more? Contact: Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@ mazamas.org.

CLASSICS SECRETARY NEEDED The Classics Committee is looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. We need a secretary for meeting minutes, a co-chair to help with planning and communication, and more. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Meetings are the fourth Monday of the month at 11 a.m. at the MMC.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR

ONGOING The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers.

If you are interested in helping out, please contact ues@mazamas.org.

MANAGE TRAIL TRIPS SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE ONGOING Do you enjoy Mazama Trail Trips so much that you'd like to spread the word?

Trail Trips is seeking a friend of the committee to keep our Facebook presence fresh. We pledge to supply content to assist in this effort. Please contact Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org if you're willing to help.

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl. com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

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JANUARY 2017 5

UPCOMING OPPORTUNITIES EXPEDITION GRANTS

If you’re planning an expedition or climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee can help make it happen with a grant, loaner gear or training.

For information or questions, email the committee at expedition@mazamas.org.

OPEN CLIMB DAYS

Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied and all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall. ▶▶ Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique. ▶▶ Dates: Jan. 8, Feb. 12, March 5 ▶▶ Hours: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $10 (cash only) Funds to go to climbing wall costs, holds and foam.

RESEARCH GRANTS

The Mazama Research Committee is now accepting proposals for consideration for funding.

Research of geologic features, biological communities, and human endeavors pertaining to the understanding, enjoyment and safety of outdoor recreation are some of the relevant research topics supported by the Mazamas. Funding will be awarded in the spring of 2017.

The request for proposals, including instructions, can be found at: tinyurl.com/ maz-researchgrants. Questions can be asked by emailing research@mazamas.org.

BCEP REGISTRATION

Registration for this year's Basic Climbing Education Program will open for Mazama members on Jan. 30 and there will be an information night at the MMC on Feb. 2. See next page for more information.

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BASIC ROCK SKILLS

Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top-rope anchor. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. ▶▶ Upcoming Dates: Feb. 17, March 20, April 21, May 10 & June 14. ▶▶ Location: MMC ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ For more information and to register go to: tinyurl.com/maz-basicrock

SNOW CAMPING SKILL BUILDER

If you’ve been exploring the Pacific Northwest without camping on snow, you’re missing out. Whether a multi-day climb on a glaciated peak in July or a back country ski trip in January, camping in and on snow opens up a world of new experiences. With a straightforward, simple format (one lecture, one weekend field session) you'll learn the fundamental skills of snow camping. ▶▶ Lecture: Feb. 15, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC ▶▶ Field Session: Feb 18 & 19 near Timberline Lodge ▶▶ Tuition: $55 members/$80 nonmembers ▶▶ For more information and to register go to: tinyurl.com/maz-snowcamp

PUBLICATIONS & FOOD TASTING

Do you love to write? Do you find yourself having long, in-depth conversations about the merits of the Oxford comma? Does taking a red pen to copy take you to your happy place? Well then come on out and find out how you can join our team and make this magazine the best it can be! In addition, we will be taste-testing a variety of backpacking food, from bars to blocks to dehydrated meals! ▶▶ Date: Jan. 17 ▶▶ Time: 6:30 p.m. ▶▶ RSVP: www.facebook.com/ events/234294606983019/

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC LIVE SPEAKER SERIES:

Point of No Return

Mountaineer Hilaree O'Neill shares the gripping story of leading a team of some of the world's elite climbers on a grueling attempt to climb a remote peak in Myanmar—and the physical and emotional toll they endured. Hear O'Neill's harrowing story of what it means to approach "the point of no return." ▶▶ Date: Jan. 25 ▶▶ Location: Newmark Theatre ▶▶ Tickets: $20–$40 (plus service fees) tinyurl.com/NatGeoHilOneill

BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST

Feb 3, 4 at the Kiggins Theatre (Vancouver, WA) Feb 6, 7, 8 at Cinema 21

Feb 9, 10, 11 at Revolution Hall There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. TICKETS GO FAST! The tour has sold out in one week the past three years.

So don't wait, grab your tickets today! ▶▶ Cinema 21 tickets: awloutdoors.org/banffpdxc21 ▶▶ Revolution Hall tickets: awloutdoors.org/banffpdxrevhall ▶▶ Kiggins tickets: brownpapertickets. com/event/2582594

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP)

by Kaitlin Rupert

A

fter growing up in Florida (and never feeling quite at home), I packed up my life and moved to Portland to spend some more time in the outdoors, but knew that wasn’t enough. After talking to anyone who would listen about wanting to get into the mountains but not knowing how to do it, I learned about BCEP and immediately knew that was my next step.

After graduating from BCEP in 2016, I learned the skills and made friends that have made “mountaineering” a possibility for me. I will forever be thankful to everyone who has helped with BCEP and to the Mazamas for making one of my life goals a reality!

—Tommy Taylor

Sound familiar? Are you looking to learn the skills necessary to safely play in the mountains? The Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is where it all starts. BCEP is designed to help those with little to no outdoor rock or snow experience learn the basic elements of alpine climbing.

Whether your interests lie in rock or snow, or maybe you’re just looking to build your confidence hiking on exposed terrain, BCEP has a little bit of something for anyone. Students will learn skills critical to becoming a successful member of a climb team, including belaying other climbers safely, rope travel on glaciated peaks and alpine rock, and rappelling. BCEP prepares students to participate on

Mazama ‘A’ and ‘B’ level climbs, which includes routes on such peaks as Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, South and Middle Sister, and Mt. Thielsen.

But it’s not all about the learning.

BCEP offers an opportunity to form new friendships and connect with volunteers of all skill levels eager to share their enthusiasm for the outdoors. Students work together to face new challenges and help each other endeavor to succeed.

Interested? Mark your calendars for Info. Night on Feb. 2. There you will learn if BCEP is right for you, how to get the most out of the class, and get an opportunity for advanced registration. We hope to see you there!

MARK YOUR CALENDAR ▶▶ JAN. 30, 2 P.M.—REGISTRATION OPENS FOR MAZAMA MEMBERS ▶▶ FEB. 2, 7 P.M.—INFO. NIGHT AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER ▶▶ FEB. 2, 9 P.M.—COURSE REGISTRATION OPENS FOR NONMEMBERS ▶▶ MARCH 7–APRIL 28: BCEP COURSE TAKES PLACE JANUARY 2017 7

VOLUNTEE

“My key role is a climb leader. Climb leaders plan, organize, and lead climbs.

Additionally climb leaders provide training and instruction for multiple levels of climbers. Primarily I focus on the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) and training novice climbers. This coming year will be my 12th BCEP class. I am also a member of the Climbing Committee (CC).

The CC recruits and develops climb leaders, establishes training and education standards, and organizes continuing education programs and skill re-certifications [...]

I lead between 3 and 6 climbs a year. [...]

Seriously, I have fun doing it.”

Bill McLoughlin BCEP Instructor Climb Leader 16 Peaks Award Recipient

8 MAZAMAS

“ I went to Smith Rock State Park for the first time as an Intermediate Climbing (ICS) student—my first real introduction to outdoor rock climbing. I tell my students about how I felt like an impostor on the hike in at the beginning of the day, like I was sure to mess up and not be able to climb anything. After a day of fun challenges and doing better than I thought, I walked out feeling on top of the world. I found out I loved rock climbing! Since then there have been countless times I have walked back to the trailhead after a day of rock climbing with other new ICS students, and they’re full of the same excitement and exhilaration I had.”

Gary Ballou, BCEP Instructor Climb Leader ICS Coordinator (2013–14).

“People have been very nice and told me that they appreciated my efforts, through specific in-person “thank yous” to nice little cards from a student or two telling me what they appreciated, to offhand comments that they make to others in my presence, mentioning some effect that I have had on them from something that I taught or did in their presence [...].

For example, just this last year, when I was helping out at MMC day for a BCEP class, and happened to do a rappel down from the top of the wall after helping out at the top, one of the fellow assistants told everyone standing there that she remembered when she was in BCEP, and she saw me rappel—she was so impressed with it, that she vowed that one day ‘she’ would be able to rappel like that, too.”

Leora Gregory Climb Leader BCEP Assistant

ER VISTAS

“I volunteered to help out because I have been a staff member for Outdoor School in the past and love the program. I think it’s great that Mazamas [Mountain Science School] and MESD’s Outdoor School program are working together to provide a residential science program for 5th graders that is different from most other outdoor school programs in the Metro region. It focuses on the mountain environment and takes place in the winter. [...] I’m not done being an environmental educator yet—I also volunteer for Metro parks programs, leading K–5 students in science and nature activities and walks in Metro parks.”

Freda Sherburne, Environmental Educator Metro retiree Former ODS staff member

“We have 40 students and over 100 volunteers. I’m the ICS coordinator. A few years ago, after I finished Advanced Rock (AR), I helped out with the single pitch rock weekend at Smith for ICS, and I was working with a student who begged me to take her up Super Slab after we’d worked on a few single pitch routes that morning.

It was [..]my first trad lead at Smith, and she said she really wanted to climb it. I agreed. It was only 3 single pitches after all. She struggled some on the 3rd pitch, but had the biggest grin at the top. The following spring, I was helping with AR, and had the privilege to follow this same student up Super Slab as she led it with ease. It felt a little serendipitous. Now she’s probably a stronger climber than I am. I think that same story plays out year after year in ICS.” Robin Wilcox, ICS Coordinator

Interviews: Michael Vincerra Photo: ©2015 Vincerra La Presanella (da Adamello Brenta).

JANUARY 2017 9

USED EQUIPMENT SALE

Move Out the Old to Make Way for the New!

The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can clear out their unused gear and make some cash, and buyers can snap up field-tested equipment at great prices! What will you find at the UES? Climbing gear, outdoor clothing, ski gear, backpacking gear, shoes, boots, books, sleeping bags, tents, and much more! Not only is this the perfect way to clear out your gear closet, but it also helps out the Mazamas. Mark your calendar today. We'll see you there! ▶▶ Date: Gear drop off, Thursday, March 23; Sale, Friday, March 24 (Mazama members and students in climbing classes get early entry into the sale) ▶▶ Time: TBA ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center (527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR)

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WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: ....................................................... 23 Matthew Bailey—South Sister Alexander Banks-Watson—Mt. Rolleston Kyle Becker—Mt. St. Helens Brent Canode—Mt. Hood Jeff Deronde—South Sister Russell Drummond—Mt. Adams Mason Gensman—South Sister Parker Halcomb—Mt. Thielsen Greg Hill—Mt. St. Helens Sarah Horn—Mt. Shasta Mary May—South Sister Patrick Mcguire—Mt. St. Helens

Cristina Mihaescu—Mt. St. Helens Mark Mott—Mt. St. Helens Mamiko Okada—Mt. St. Helens Rebecca Pilcher—South Sister Rachael Power—South Sister Mack Robertson—Mt. Hood Shelley Searle—Mt. Washington Karl Stewart—Sahale Ross Turner—Mt. St. Helens Jared Van Putten—Mt. Rainier San Williamson—Mt. Hood

Reinstatements: ..........................................................3

Tom Kline (2003), Kristina Kurcinka (2014), Ingrid Nye (2011)

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations: mazamas.org/join • • • • •

Total Membership: Nov. 2016—3,709; Nov. 2015—3,598 • •

DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings.

This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly.

DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood.

The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers.

Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters.

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JANUARY 2017 11

A New Role for an Old Hand

by Darrin Gunkel

J

ustin Rotherham was recently hired as the Mazamas’ new Education and Activities Program Manager.

He’s been a member of the Mazamas since 2007 and a climb leader since 2013. He was a founding member of the Mazamas Family Committee. A graduate of BCEP and ICS, he also served on the climbing committee and as coordinator for the Families and Mountaineering 101 program.

WHAT DID YOU DO BEFORE THE MAZAMAS HIRED YOU? I spent the last three years operating a small drafting and design business specializing in the stone industry. So I come to the Mazamas with a whole lot of volunteer background and a lot of project management background.

WHAT DREW YOU TO LEADERSHIP VOLUNTEERING AND THEN TO THIS JOB? There are just so many good things. I find the work that the Mazamas do to be incredibly fulfilling. I’m very excited about the things that we will be doing for the development of leaders. I find our volunteers are incredibly inspiring— you don’t find volunteers like we have at the Mazamas at every not-for-profit organization.

THE EDUCATION AND ACTIVITIES PROGRAM MANAGER POSITION IS NEW. WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? I have several duties. First, I work with our committee chairs and program coordinators. I’m a resource for them and their committees to help them get more work done and in general to help them be more successful. On a daily basis I can [do things like] help them get classes rescheduled after a snowstorm, help with new curriculum, or help a committee make difficult decisions. Most recently I’ve been helping the BCEP Committee find a new venue. So, from that side of things, I’m a facilitator for our committees. Beyond that, 12 MAZAMAS

a lot of what I will be doing is providing some consistency that we haven’t had in the past. Even though our volunteers are amazing and very dedicated, we still see volunteer turn over—entire committees turn over at a rate of about every three years. So hopefully I will be able to provide some continuity through those transitions.

As we have new people stepping into leader ship roles, I’ll be able to help them pick up where the last coordinator or chair left off so we can do less reinvention and more progression.

GIVEN THAT THREE-YEAR TURN OVER YOU MENTIONED, IS ONE OF YOUR GOALS TO RETAIN VOLUNTEER LEADERSHIP LONGER? It’s more on the side of making transitions seamless. We have a history of keeping leadership longer than that, but it’s very important to me that we don’t burn our volunteers out. When someone has taken the time to dedicate themselves to running a Mazama course or simply instructing throughout a course or leading a committee or being a member of a committee, we need to celebrate that and help them find the next thing that they’re interested in doing or allowing them to take a break.

WHAT’S THE LEADERSHIP DEVELOPMENT PROJECT? That’s another portion of what I’m in charge of. When somebody says they are a leader in the Mazamas, they are generally saying that they are either a climb leader or a hike leader. I would like to broaden that

term to mean that if you are instructing or chairing or organizing other volunteers, you are also a leader. That could mean a committee chair, a task force leader, a course coordinator, or regular instructor in our education programs. Those people are all taking on leadership roles. I feel it’s really important to recognize that and provide some training for those folks because being a leader is hard, and it’s a learnable skill. So, we’re working on defining those roles and then supporting them with some training that goes along with it.

WHAT’S THE KEY TO RECRUITING GREAT VOLUNTEER LEADERSHIP? ARE THE MAZAMAS DOING ENOUGH OF THAT? That’s a really good question. I think we are currently doing the best that we can at volunteer recruitment. Some things that I think are holding us back from being able to get the number of volunteers that we want are the systems that we have in place for volunteers to operate within.

It seems that we’re moving into a new phase of volunteerism, where people are coming to the Mazamas looking for more baseline skills and activities so that they can build a network of friends but may not necessarily be as interested in long-term volunteer commitments of the kind we’re used to seeing. I think the best way we can support this new type of volunteerism is to really work with our current volunteers and identify the positions that we have and make those positions very clear and easy

to work with. Creating job descriptions and really measurable outcomes for volunteer positions are ways we can promote volunteerism.

SO AGAIN, THAT’S WHAT YOUR JOB–THIS NEW STAFF POSITION–IS ALL ABOUT. Yeah!

YOUR TITLE IS EDUCATION AND ACTIVITIES PROGRAMS MANAGER. IT DOESN’T ACTUALLY CONTAIN THE TERM VOLUNTEER. Right. It doesn’t. I would say that what makes my job unique is the group of people that I work with the closest. My focus is to work with our volunteers who have stepped up to the most demanding (and time consuming) positions in the organization—mostly our committee chairs and course leaders—but also Executive Council and anybody who is interested in starting a new class, activity or program. My job is to support those people with processes that allow for growth and program sustainability. Also, to find ways to help them be as efficient as possible. The goal is for our volunteers to spend less time filling out paperwork and more time mastering and teaching cutting edge technical skills, leading climbs, creating programming, and sharing the same love for the outdoors we all have. I think the opportunity that the Mazamas has taken in bringing in somebody like myself to build systems is that when volunteers step up to the plate; we’re ready for them. We know what we need them to do and they know what they’re signing up for. We really want people to come in and hit the ground running and be able to easily interact with other volunteers; leaders and staff.

HOW CHALLENGING IS IT TO MAKE THESE SORTS OF CHANGES TO THE ORGANIZATION? I think there is a need to finesse change in an organization like the Mazamas because we have a rich history and we have a lot of members that associate high points—pun intended—of their lives with volunteering for the Mazamas. As time goes on, the volunteer profile changes. So, we need to be cognizant of our past and the people and abilities of volunteers that put that together and use that for sound decision making going forward. That said, it’s an incredibly exciting time to be part of the Mazamas because we have this great potential for innovation and growth and discovery throughout this process.

We are uniquely suited to these kind of changes because we a very nimble organization and have a lot of capacity for growth.

We tend to hover around 3500 members. I would be aiming for increasing the active portion of our membership rather than pure growth because that’s going to reinvigorate everyone. If we can leverage more of the group that we currently have, it’s going to create excitement for new people to get involved.

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO PEOPLE TO KNOW? I would ask that anybody who sees me, stop and say “hi” because I want to see everybody that is coming in and helping out. I want them to know who I am so we can work on this change together.

JANUARY 2017 13

AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART We are always adding new events for getting outdoors! Please check both the mazamas.org/activities/aym page and the AYM Meetup page for the most up to date schedule and registration information.

HOOD RIVER PIPELINE AND MOSIER TUNNELS—MON., JAN 2 Ring in the New Year with a bang—two short but excellent hikes on the eastern side of the Gorge! Join AYM for an exploration of the eastern Gorge near Hood River and Mosier. Hike: 10.5 miles, 1,000 feet elevation gain. Drive: 120 miles. $2 members, $3 nonmembers. Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m. If there is ice or snow in the forecast this hike will be canceled. Please pack like you’re going to the mountains, including adequate raingear and the 10 Essentials. Hikers wearing cotton will be turned away. Leader has hiked the Pipeline Trail many times but Mosier Tunnels is exploratory. Leader: Matt Reeder

PORTAND HISTORY HIKES New to Portland, or just curious about the city you live in? Want to wake up late and stick close to town? If so, come join Krista for a Portland History Hike! Following a few pages from Laura O. Foster’s Portland Hill Walks book, we’ll explore one of Portland’s neighborhoods and learn about the history of our beloved city.

Leader: Krista Collins. ▶▶ Sun., Jan. 8: Willamette Heights to Balch Creek Canyon Loop ▶▶ Sun., Jan. 22: Nob Hill to Kings Heights and Pittock Mansion Loop

BAYOCEAN SPIT—SAT., JAN. 14 Feel the need for some coastal walking?

This lovely loop along the beach and back features the ruins of a coastal town, a long stretch of very quiet beach and some excellent views across to towns along the coastline. Hike: 7 miles, no elevation gain.

Drive: 148. Depart: 8:30 a.m. from Sunset Transit Center. If there is ice or snow in the forecast for the Coast Range this hike will be moved to a different destination, as OR Highway 6 is very dangerous in icy conditions. Please pack like you’re going to the mountains, including adequate raingear and the 10 Essentials. Hikers wearing cotton will be turned away. Leader: Matt Reeder

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Photo: Sandor Lau

AYM WINTER WEEKEND—FRI., JAN.27–SUN., JAN. 29 Join us for one of AYM’s most popular events at the Historic Mazama Lodge up on Mt. Hood! We host a fun weekend out in the snow with a variety of activities suited to all participants.

Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. We also host board game night on the first Wednesday of the month (check our website and Meetup page for location, they rotate every month!).

AYM & CONSERVATION GIVING BACK Thirteen Adventurous Young Mazamas joined Mazamas Conservation Committee and Friends of Trees to plant trees along Veteran's Creek in SE Portland on Dec. 3 (photo above). Together we planted nearly 700 native trees and shrubs and removed invasive ivy. Veteran's Creek is a tributary to Johnson Creek where salmon have recently returned due to conservation efforts like this one.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS

MAZAMA LODGE

FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE

YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN

We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net. Executive Council liaison Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas.org, 503-227-0974, or classics@ mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN FEBRUARY Contact Rose Marie Gilbert by Jan. 15 for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick-up point is Gateway; our west side is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events, you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact transportation coordinator, Flora Huber, at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

This is the most December snow Mazama Lodge has seen in 15 years and we hope to see you soon! Here are a few reminders when visiting the lodge this winter: ▶▶ Mazama Lodge is open to members during the day for free.

Guests are $5 for the day or $15 for a family. Lunch is $9 for adults and $6 for kids—if you have lunch, the day fee is waived. ▶▶ We don’t require lunch reservations. Lunch is served from 12–1:30 p.m. every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Lunch will also be served on Martin Luther King Day and President's Day. ▶▶ If you forget to bring a snow park pass, we sell one and threeday snow park permits. $7 for a day pass or $11 for 3-day passes. ▶▶ Enter and exit through the basement to keep our lodge warm. ▶▶ Mazama Lodge and our ski hill are pet-free.

LUNCH MENU ▶▶ Vegetable du Jour ▶▶ Hot Soup with Vegan options ▶▶ Grilled Cheese Sandwiches ▶▶ Whole Fruit ▶▶ Rice Crispy Cookies NEW YEAR'S DAY: BRUNCH FOR LUNCH We will be serving a terrific New Years Day Brunch from 9 a.m.– 12 p.m.; Adults $9 and kids $6. We still have lots of room on New Year's Day for overnight guests and the lodge will stay open until noon on Tuesday, Jan. 3.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING: JAN. 15 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC in meeting room 2. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of each month.

ANNUAL CLASSICS LUNCHEON: JAN. 20 The Fourth Annual Holiday Luncheon has been reschedule for Jan. 20. This event is for all Classic Mazamas and you are invited! You'll have the opportunity to mingle and visit with fellow Classic Mazamas and MMC staff, and to eat a wonderful meal provided by the Charles Barker. A short program will include recognizing and awarding pins to new 25-year and 50-year members.

We are asking for a suggested donation of $5 to cover about half the cost of the lunch.

Please RSVP to the Mattie Courtright by Monday, Jan. 17 at 503-227-2345 or mattie@mazamas.org.

Most snow in 15 years!

Photo: Charles Barker JANUARY 2017 15

Volunteer Pathways Bringing Kids to the Mountain

By Michael Vincerra

F

or a few short days in winter, under dreary gray skies, 5th-grade students are transported from the Centennial School District in Gresham and East Portland to the Mazama Lodge at the base of Mt. Hood. Transported not only to an alpine world of snow, adventure, science, and learning, but also to a classroom unlike any other.

Volunteers, teachers, and parents assure that these students will spend three weekdays immersed in an alpine classroom, where they “learn how to learn,” with an eye toward stewardship of our natural resources.

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For 5th graders who see Mt. Hood’s rugged profile from city streets, arrival at Mazama Lodge means a chance to explore nature and have fun. To parents, teachers, and volunteers, it means the chance to pass on a love of nature and curiosity to 11 and 12 year olds—hoping to inspire another generation of outdoor enthusiasts.

Since its inception in 2015, the Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS) has grown its student body 4 times over, serving about 150 kids in 2015 to 650 kids in 2017. Whereas in the winter of 2015, it educated 3 schools of 5th grade classes, in 2017, it will educate about 11 schools of 5th grade classes.

The Mazamas partnered with the Centennial School District to fill a gap in the outdoor education system. As a result of this partnership, all seven Centennial elementary schools will be a part of MMSS. Elementary schools from the Portland and Parkrose School Districts also attend. MMSS offers a 5-to-1

adult to student ratio, which means fifthgraders get plenty of outdoor mentoring and skill development in a safe, secure environment, from professional instructors and volunteers.

“We couldn’t do the MMSS without Mazama volunteers, but the majority of the volunteer chaperones are parents of the kids,” says Ann Griffin, MMSS Project Coordinator. Chaperones guide the participants through 14 learning stations—from compass usage, mountain geology, animal tracking, volcanoes, plate tectonics, glaciers, the greenhouse effect, and more. The MMSS curriculum was developed as a collaboration between the Mazamas and the Multnomah Education Service District (MESD), who provides professional instructors. MESD is known for developing Outdoor School for 6th graders and Oregon Trail for the 4th graders. Shauna Stevenson, with the MESD, is largely credited as leading this curriculum development.

“At the end of the school,” says Griffin, “we ask the kids, ‘Do you think that you’d be more likely to come back here (Mt. Hood)?’

When the kids say ‘Yes,’ we consider that a win.

Griffin reflects, “I think as an organization we’re asking questions as we grow, ‘How do we make sure that we take care of our volunteers?’ ‘How do we plug people into what they really want to do? How do we make sure that they [volunteers] are recognized?’” In 2017, there are 11 different sessions of approximately 55–60 students who attend Mazama Mountain Science School. In groups of 3 –5, kids move through the learning stations with a chaperone, asking lots of questions.

A chaperone could be a Mazama volunteer or a child’s parent. For 2017 Griffin estimates about 7 volunteer chaperones will participate. Mazama volunteers play a critical role as chaperones. For many of the students’ families, it is difficult to take three days off from work, for economic or other reasons. Mazama volunteers fill an important gap.

Freda Sherburne is an Environmental Educator, retired from Metro, and former ODS staff member who volunteers for Metro parks programs, leading K–5 students in science and nature activities.

Sherburne volunteered with MMSS in 2015

and 2016. “Because of my background in environmental education, I was also able to take on a teaching role when needed or to help parent chaperones lead their activities.” Sherburne’s professional background was a great asset to MMSS. If only for the fact that children are exposed to alpine environments and their stewardship, the MMSS provides experienced volunteers to these fifth graders, placing them where they can make a big difference. Sherburne muses, “I do remember seeing the joy of the students as they did science activities outside in the snow. For some students, this was their first time on Mt. Hood.”

The MMSS is the centerpiece for Mazama youth outreach initiatives, which include partnering with Centennial School District for grant writing and curriculum development. Yet this is a school. So what are the educational outcomes? The goal is to get more kids into the outdoors. The difference is getting kids curious about things like how densely-packed snow can provide insulation, or how to find true north on a compass or by the North Star,

by focusing on nurturing curiosity more than test scores. MMSS continues working with Centennial to find ways to reinforce the lessons that students learn on the mountain—their new classroom. “At the end of the school,” says Griffin, “we ask kids, ‘Do you think that you’d be more likely to come back here (Mt. Hood)?’ When the kids say ‘Yes,’ we consider that a win.

Mazama Mountain Science School Est: 2015 Mazama Lodge, Mt. Hood Website: tinyurl.com/MAZMSS Contact: Ann Griffin, Mazama Mountain Science School Project Coordinator anngriffin@mazamas.org MMC: M–TH: 10:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.

JANUARY 2017 17

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAY AT 7 P.M., MID-OCT. THROUGH MID-APRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER.

Vancouver Island’s West Coast Trail—Jan. 4 Accessible from Portland, though with many logistical hurdles, Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail (WCT) offers 75 km of some of the most grueling backpacking imaginable.

Falling hazards include interminable exposed roots, deep mud, slick angled boardwalks, slimy ocean crust, a giant boulder field, and more. There are also a hundred ladders, and care must be taken not to get fingers caught in cable cars at river crossings. So why go?

The WCT offers opportunities to see wildlife up close, to traverse an amazing landscape at low tide, and to enjoy the hospitality of Canadians. Mazama Trail Trips Committee Chair Bill Stein organized a six-day WCT adventure in June 2016 for five other family members, including two teenagers. In addition to photos and videos from that trip, Bill will offer practical information for those wishing to obtain a WCT permit—reservations for 2017 will become available less than a week after the presentation. Bill will also collect names of those interested in a Mazama outing to backpack the WCT in 2018.

Annapurna Circuit: Trekking in Nepal— Jan. 11 This presentation highlights a historic trail that was once used to transport goods. It became quite popular in the 60s as a hippy pilgrimage.

David Burdick travels 250 miles of the circuit and explores the cultural and scenic beauty of the Nepalese people. Highlights of the trip can be seen at https://youtu. be/PFyUSbgUvZE 18 MAZAMAS

The Curtis Brothers and the Mazamas—Jan. 18 Library and Historical Collections Manager for the Mazamas, Mathew Brock, will present on the photographers Edward and Asahel Curtis' time with the Mazamas. The Mazamas have many notable past members like John Muir and President Theodore Roosevelt. For some, while their notoriety is more obscure, it is no less important. Into this lesserknown camp of Mazama alumni fall the photographer brothers Edward Curtis and his younger brother Asahel Curtis of Seattle Washington. Edward Curtis will forever be known for this magnum opus, The North American Indian, an 18 volume ethnography of the Native American tribes of the North American continent. Before he was a chronicler of Indian culture, Edward Curtis was a climber. He joined the Mazamas on a Mt. Rainier outing in 1897. Asahel would follow in his brother's footsteps and join the Mazamas in 1899.

Executive Council Meeting Time & Date Change

by Steve Hooker, Mazama President The Executive Council meeting time and date is changing.

With the increase in traffic over the last few years, traveling to the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a 6:30 p.m. meeting has become a challenge, especially for council members that live on the west side of the river. Additionally, to adequately prepare for the council meeting each month a large packet of information is produced for council members. The packet needs to be prepared seven days prior to the meeting, and with end of month responsibilities this is a difficult deadline to adhere to.

To alleviate these complications, the council has voted to move their meeting time to 3 p.m. and the meeting date to the third Tuesday of the month. This will happen in two stages. The January meeting will be at 3 p.m. on the second Tuesday of the month, and in February we will move to the new schedule of 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of the month.

The meetings are scheduled to end by 6 p.m.

Meetings will continue to be open and members are welcome to attend. Each meeting will still begin with an open comment period.

Discover the Oregon Desert Trail—Jan. 25 Do you need inspiration for that next backpacking trip? Join the Oregon Natural Desert Association for an introduction to one of the newest long distance routes in the country: the Oregon Desert Trail. This 750-mile adventure traverses some stunning natural features in the high desert like the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, Steens Mountain, and the Owyhee Canyonlands through a mixture of cross country travel, trail and two-track roads. Trail Coordinator Renee Patrick will cover the basics of hitting the trail and share some stories from her section hiking and packrafting in 2016. Drawing on her 10,000 backpacking miles and recent triple-crown accomplishment (completing the AT, PCT & CDT), Renee is applying all her knowledge and passion for trails to this new route. Don't miss a chance to win some raffle goodies provided by Oregon Desert Trail sponsors.

Slot Canyoneering in South Central Utah— Feb. 1 Utah is home to some of the best slot canyons in the world. Join Vaqas Malik for a photo journey to some remote technical slot canyons in areas of San Rafael Swell, Robber Roost and North Wash in south-central Utah. The program includes travel guidelines, technical preparation and also some photography tips for slot canyons.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee.

Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

JANUARY 2017 19

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC NORTH TO ALASKA OUTING MARCH 4–11 See December Bulletin and online listing for full details. This Outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. The trip this year overlaps with the start of the Iditarod and the plan is to attend the restart of the Iditarod in Willow on Sunday, March 5.

The Outing group will meet in Anchorage and use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna.

At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, aurora watching, learning about dog mushing and the Iditarod, photography, meeting locals, and learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaska Range. Sign-up deadline is Feb. 1.

Interested? Contact Tom Bennett at nordlystom@gmail.com and let him know why you are interested in attending and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Ages 21 and over.

HIKE THE CANYONS OF SOUTHWEST UTAH APRIL 29–MAY 6, 2017 Join us to explore canyons and enjoy the beauty of Southwest Utah. We plan to spend the first afternoon in Bryce Canyon National Park after picking up rental vehicles at the Las Vegas Airport (plan an early flight), then drive to Escalante RV Park where we will be staying for seven nights in shared cabins. Camping is also available as we have sites reserved.

From there, we will lead B and C hikes in the canyons—there will be an optional one night backpack to Coyote Gulch. Outing cost is $224–$235 for tent/nonmember $294–$305; $295–$306 for cabin/nonmember $365– $376. Costs include lodging, permits, and fees. Participants are responsible for travel (SUV or crossover vehicle recommended) and all meals. A $75 deposit is required by Feb. 1.

Contact Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail. com or Assistant leader Lesley Langan at leslely@yahoo.com for more information or to apply. We will have a pre-outing meeting in Feb. 2017.

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CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees, and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website.

Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org for more information.

MT. THIELSEN TO DIAMOND PEAK PCT BACKPACK JULY 21–28 Backpack the spectacular Pacific Crest Trail from Mt. Thielsen to Diamond Peak. We begin with a Mt. Thielsen climb, then continue on the Pacific Crest Trail to our climb of Diamond Peak. Lakes, forest, and countless scenic views await you on this comfortably paced trip. We’ll take seven days to cover the 57 miles of trail and climb approaches. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with four days of food and camping gear, and have class “A” climbing skills.

Outing cost of $142 to $345 for a group size of three to five, including leaders. Cost includes mileage to and from our entry and exit points, plus campground and Outing fees.

Participants are responsible for their meals and equipment. A trip overview and gear assessment and recommendation session will be held prior to departure.

A $150 deposit is due June 20. Outing Leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail. com) 503-297-6344. Assistant Leader: TBD

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG. 5, 2017 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017.

Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day-hike Monday–Friday.

There will be two hikes offered each day, a

combination of A and B-level hikes in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park.

Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175 for members and $245 for nonmembers.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register.

OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING AUG. 9–16 Based out of Humbug Mountain State Park, we will hike approximately 70 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the California border. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with trails through the headlands. This is a diverse area with spectacular scenery.

Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $105–$240 depending on the number of participants and member status. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15. (Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountain State Park.)

Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com), 503 297-6344; Assistant Leader: TBD. Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub. org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

Office Volunteers: Familiar Faces & Voices In addition to all of our wonderful volunteers who are coordinating classes, instructing field sessions, running committees, serving on our board (and so much more!), we have our dedicated office volunteers who help us keep the MMC running! From answering phones, to responding to emails, to all sorts of other varied tasks, these folks are instrumental in day to day operations at the MMC. A big thanks to Lis Cooper, Marty Hanson, Eric Hall, Traci Manning, Rebecca Morris, Gary Riggs, Marty Scott, and Donna Vandall for taking on these duties!

Interested in joining our Office Volunteer crew? Email Laura Burger at laura@mazamas.org.

We asked each of our office volunteers: How long have you volunteered with Mazamas, and what made you want to volunteer/ get involved? What are some of your favorite Mazama and non-Mazama activities and hobbies?

Read Traci, Donna, and Gary's answers below.

TRACI MANNING I took BCEP in 2007 not knowing any other Mazamas or really much about it. I just loved to hike and found there were places I wanted to go that I didn't have the skills to get to. The following year I assisted BCEP—and because of that met my future husband, Mazama and AR grad Kerry Loehr, who was in that BCEP class! My work schedule became more flexible last year and I wanted to give back. Mazamas has become such a well rounded organization for everyone who loves the outdoors and want to protect it for future generations. Working in the office allows me to interact with so many people that are psyched to be getting outside! I've also volunteered for trail tending/ conservation work with the Mazamas and the Access Fund. It's great to help preserve the places I climb. Kerry and I own and operate the Gorgeous Series—a company that puts on running events in Oregon—so when we aren't climbing or hiking we may be out running with our dog.

DONNA VANDALL I've been volunteering with Mazamas for over 25 years—as a climb leader, instructor, committee member and now office volunteer (2 years). I enjoy climbing and other activities and especially the people I get to interact with. My favorite part of volunteering is meeting new people and sharing experiences, and being able to provide information—in the office or on the trail. Favorite Mazama activities include climbing and working with classes, as well as travel, hiking, and skiing.

GARY RIGGS I have always been an outdoors person, and now I want to make a difference and have a role in bringing people to the outdoors.

I am also interested in outdoor education for young people.

Also (selfishly) I love climbing and I know that volunteering helps me get on climbs! My favorite part of volunteering is sharing experiences and interests with like-minded people.

When I'm not out climbing I enjoy singing in a choir.

JANUARY 2017 21

VOLUNTEERING AT THE CRAG

A Look Into Rebolting and What it Takes to Keep Our Climbing Areas Safe

by Kevin Machtelinckx

T

he next time you take a big fall on that sport-climbing route that pushes you to your limits at your favorite local outdoor climb spot, take a moment to think about the forces that are being exerted on that little steel bolt keeping you from eating some serious dirt. Topher Dabrowski talks a little bit about what goes into monitoring and replacing those anchors that we all trust with our lives when climbing outdoors.

When people think of outdoor volunteering, they often think of cleaning up recreational areas, trail maintenance, removing invasive plant species etc. What activities are the equivalent in the climbing community?

Those are all valid volunteer activities within the climbing community since our climbing areas aren't immune to trash and vandalism. They require maintenance for access trails/roads and, of course, need the same attention for the removal of invasive plants, although some of that happens on much steeper terrain. However, there are some unique opportunities specific to the climbing community. One of these is climbing route maintenance, which encompasses bolt and anchor replacement, route safety assessment, and annual route cleaning. Many climbing routes utilize bolts and pitons as fixed protection, but these can be quite old and have been compromised by corrosion, thermal cycling and various types of loading. In addition, pitons are susceptible to expansion and movement of the rock itself. Volunteers will access routes and make assessments for the health of the anchors and whether or not they require replacement. At the same time, we will also clean out cracks that may get chocked with dirt and vegetation, trim tree branches that grow into route lines and fall zones, inspect routes for loose rock and risks associated with any potential rock fall, and replace rappel slings and rings.

Why is what you do important to the community? What is the current state of bolts in Portland/the Gorge/Smith Rock/other areas?

Unless one is free soloing, climbing anchors are an essential part of the sport.

22 MAZAMAS

Climbers use them as a backup should they fall while ascending a route and as a means to facilitate a retreat.

An effective anchor is one that doesn't fail under the anticipated loads associated with climbing, falling and descending and it should do so over a given period of time. Many of the anchors that we climb on have been installed anywhere from 30 to 50 years ago and, given the materials that were available, the anchor design and the environmental exposure, are reaching or have passed their reasonable service lives.

Time has come to replace these anchors, as it keeps us all safe from injury (or worse) and minimizes accidents associated with anchor failures. Accidents and rescues cost money and can often give justification to land managers to shut down a climbing area for fear of responsibility and liability.

Each climbing area is unique in terms of the quality of aging anchors and much of that is due to the environmental conditions that can affect corrosion and hence reliability of anchors. For instance, climbing areas adjacent to maritime regions are strongly affected by corrosion due to the salt content in the air, which can attack anchor materials. The accelerated corrosive actions can render a bolt useless in just a few years, whereas in a dry desert environment, such as Joshua Tree, some of the original anchors show very little sign of corrosion and can be almost as strong as the day they were placed. Rock

Many of the anchors that we climb were installed anywhere from 30 to 50 years ago and ... are reaching or have passed their reasonable service lives. Time has come to replace these anchors, as it keeps us all safe from injury (or worse) and minimizes accidents associated with anchor failures. composition also affects anchor reliability for reasons not related to corrosion but due to the strength of the medium in which the anchor is installed. For example, compare bolts placed around the same period at a local area such as Ozone to those at Smith Rock. At Ozone, the rock is a very hard basalt whereas at Smith the rock is made up of layers of basalt over ash and tuff. The rock at Smith is much more variable and typically has a harder casing over a softer core. Bolts at Smith tend to become loose much faster, as the material around the anchor crumbles and disintegrates under repeated loading and thermal cycling. Evidence of this is the number of "spinners" (bolts with loose hangers) one comes across at Smith.

We don't see that same issue as often at the crags in the Gorge, but we have seen faster rates of corrosion due to increased humidity and routes with anchors located in seeps. Let's just say that given the number of questionable bolts that we have pulled at local crags, it’s timely that the current rebolting projects are well underway.

Help us reach our fundraising goal!

Go to mazamas.org/donate and make a donation today! (note "Portland Rebolting Fund") on the form.

Clockwise, from left: Hauling up rebolting equipment. New bolt installed next to old bolt about to be removed. Rebolting kits purchased with money from the most recent fundraising campaign. Photos: Topher Dabrowski

What is rebolting? How long can it take?

What is involved (tools, techniques, hardware, glues, epoxies etc)? Does one need to be certified in order to rebolt?

Rebolting is the act of replacing existing climbing anchors on a route after determining that the anchors are no longer functionally safe. The actual process of rebolting a climb depends on where the climb is located (local vs. remote crags) and how many bolts need to be replaced. On the one hand, I have spent a whole weekend to address a route

(Barad Dur on Wolf Rock) which involved 8 pitches of climbing and carrying the necessary kit while ascending (bolts, drill, bits, wrenches and related gear). On the other, rebolting a route at a local crag can involve simply rapping in and having the route rebolted in a couple hours. The basic process involves either climbing or rappelling the route so that one can hang in the area where the replacement bolt will be placed. The rock quality around the current anchor position is assessed

and a spot for the new anchor is chosen. Sometimes we can utilize the original bolt hole.

Other times we have to place the replacement bolt somewhere in the region of the original bolt. If using the original bolt hole, the old bolt is removed, the hole is drilled out and cleaned, and the new anchor is installed. If a new location is going to be used, a new hole is drilled, cleaned and the new anchor is installed. Once the new anchor is in place, it is tightened to the correct specification using a torque wrench so that an adequate preload is placed on the anchor.

This helps set the anchor into the rock and minimizes the likelihood of a loose hanger. There is also another "bolting" technology, which is not mechanically fastened in place but is adhesively bonded to the rock. These are called glue-in anchors. They are phenomenally strong if placed correctly, but are more sensitive to installation errors and can lose 90% of their strength if installed incorrectly. Our group uses a mix of mechanical anchors and glue-ins for our replacement work.

Currently there is no certification process for bolting climbing routes and that is very concerning to me. Anyone with a pocket full of cash can go purchase a drill, buy a bag of bolts and start bolting

continued on page 26 JANUARY 2017 23

VERA DAFOE

Remarkable Woman & Inspiring Leader

by Kate Evans

V

era Dafoe has been contributing to the Mazamas for 59 years as environmental activist, climb leader, role model, and member of many organizational committees. While she successfully led 152 Mazama climbs and summited 372 mountains, garnering the 16 Peaks, Redman, Parker, and Montague Awards, Vera is most likely known as the founder and curator of the Mazamas Museum. Vera Dafoe retired her ice axe this year at age 90 but is still an active Classics Member of the Mazamas.

Vera became involved with the Mazamas in her early 30s when she and two of her children attended the multiday Oberteuffer’s Family Camp at the Log Lodge in July 1956. Vera asked Bill Oberteuffer if he thought she could climb Mt. Hood, and he said she could, but needed to get in shape. Twenty-two days after the camp on August 19, 1956, Vera struggled to the summit of Mt. Hood with 43 Mazamas. In 1957 she and Mazamas Pat Willner and Allison Logan Belcher climbed Adams and in 1958, Vera took the Mazama Basic School and summited Mount St. Helens.

CLIMB LEADER AND ROLE MODEL Between 1958 and 1966 Vera was climbing more often leading a rope or being an assistant leader. Her first official Mazamas climb was Mt. Hoffman on a 24 MAZAMAS

Yosemite outing in 1966. In the 37 years between 1966 and 2003 Vera led over 152 Mazama climbs and taught Basic School for many years. She also climbed in the Alps, Dolomites, Cascades, Sierras, Selkirks, Canadian Rockies, Tetons, Olympics, Wallowas, Sawtooths and Sierra Nevada, as evidenced by her impressive eight-page climb resume.

In an oral history interview with Doug Couch she describes her philosophy of leading as follows: “It was extremely important that the first time a person is trying it’s the most important time of all and they should succeed on that first time.” She also feels strongly that women and Explorer Post girls should see positive female role models. During the 1994 Centennial year she was serving on Executive Council and was dismayed that none of the Centennial climbs were being led by women; and so she stepped forth.

In 2003, at age 75, Vera led her last Mazama climb, and in 2005 she and Cloudy Sears—Vera's daughter—ventured on Mt. Dafoe in the Nuit Range of the Coast Mountains of British Columbia.

Mt. Dafoe was named by members of the Explorer Post to honor Vera’s “long-term contribution to the success of the Post.” At age 85 in 2012 Vera also joined climbs of Fay Peak, Mt. Pleasant, and First Mother with fellow Classic Ray Sheldon.

Vera gladly served on many Mazamas leadership committees through the years and was known for her insistence to do things right the first time. When Jack Grauer presented the Parker Cup to Vera in 1984 for the, “ ... person judged to have rendered services of the greatest benefit to the club during the year,” he referred to Vera as “the conscience” of the Mazamas. Chris Mackert, former Mazama

president, also calls Vera the Mazamas conscience for her integrity, ability to look at things critically and analytically, and her primary concern for the interests of the Mazamas.

MAZAMA MUSEUM Not only has Vera contributed to the Mazamas as a climb leader and role model, but she also created and has been the sole curator of the Mazama Museum since 1970—over 46 years. In her oral history Vera states that she started gathering historical equipment when she noticed there were, "... various pieces around and they were really museum pieces."

She cleaned the equipment, washed the clothing, and assigned catalogue numbers using a catalogue system she designed using the best museum standards.

Folks began bringing artifacts to the clubrooms (our home prior to the Mazama Mountaineering Center), and the Mazama Museum began. She often requested objects for the museum, and according to long-time library volunteer Tom Dinsmore, Vera wasn’t bashful about asking for items, including posthumous requests.

Eventually items moved from Vera’s basement to the clubrooms on NW 19th street, and in 1985, following a clubroom renovation, Vera finally had two lighted cabinets to display museum items. In that year she had exhibits under four

Photos (from left): Vera on Mount St. Helens, Jan. 21, 1986. Sawtooth outing, July 1979. Notice Vera's t-shirt. This shirt, that reads "a woman's place is on the top, Annapurna, American Women's Himalayan Expedition" was sold to finance the first American ascent of Annapurna I in Nepal in 1978. While you can still purchase one of these "classic" t-shirts today, Vera is sporting one of the originals; sales of this t-shirt raised $80,000 for the 1978 expedition (in today's dollars that would be $300,000!). Vera Hoss, age 36. July 1962.

themes: snow climbing equipment such as ice axes, crampons and boots; old camping gear and pack sacks; Mazama awards and emblems; and skiing equipment.

Mazama Archivist Jeff Thomas often shared detective work with Vera and she was especially helpful with locating, obtaining, identifying, and cataloging climbing hardware and other items.

Currently the museum has nailed boots, early climbing hardware, 36 alpenstocks, and 196 ice axes, including one given to William D. Hackett by Argentine dictator Juan Peron when Hackett climbed Aconcagua. Those of you who attended the Doug Robinson benefit for the library this fall also saw Ty and Marianne Kearney’s bicycle, which they took to the summit of Mt. Hood in 1946, and the magic lantern slides from C.E. Rusk’s 1910 Denali expedition, using the Mazamas 100 yearold Balopticon lantern slide projector—all part of Vera’s Museum legacy.

Our Library and Historical Collections manager Mathew Brock states that our library, archives, and museum are second only to the American Alpine Club’s and we have one of the “ ... premiere mountain artifact collections in the United States.”

Mathew also commented favorably on Vera’s “ ... level of dedication and attention to detail, her professionalism, and her thoroughness and consistency for over 46 years.”

Since 1985, Vera has prepared creative displays of museum items, sometimes including her iconic marmots, and in 2001 she was recognized for her years of dedication with the Redman Cup, which honors a notable artistic contribution to the Mazamas. Barbara Marquam, in presenting the Cup, spoke of Vera’s captivating exhibit in 1999, the year Mallory’s body was found on Everest.

Vera’s exhibit replicated photos of the equipment used by Mallory on Everest in 1924, " ... using strikingly similar gear from the Mazama Museum’s extensive collection to link our heritage with one of mountaineering’s most dramatic events.

This display, together with more than 50 others Vera has created in 30 years of museum stewardship, showcase unique facets of the Mazamas and mountaineering culture and history. Vera captured our attention, tantalized our curiosity, kindled our imaginations and tickled our funny bones.”

The Redman Cup also honored Vera for her many Bulletin and Annual articles and other publications. Two articles in Off Belay show Vera’s playful, sometimes subversive sense of humor. One describes using “aerator sandals”, a.k.a. crampons, to aerate the lawn. In another, Female Anatomy and the Wind Chill Factor, a three-page, illustrated ”scientific treatise” explores wind chill hazards faced by the female climber, “ ... during the performance of certain bodily functions.”

ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVIST Vera earned the Montague Bowl for her conservation work both in and out of the Mazamas. Ray Sheldon called Vera a watchdog for environmental issues, and she is a self-described “constructive troublemaker.” Over the years Vera was involved in many environmental issues, such as fighting the expansion of Timberline and Meadows ski areas, protecting Silver Star, the responsible re-opening of Mount St. Helens after the eruption, beginning the Mazamas involvement with the annual beach cleanup, improving the water quality standards in Bull Run, and helping to achieve wilderness designation for the Menagerie area in the Willamette National Forest. There are two Columbia Gorge victories of which she is especially proud: defeating the Port of Cascade Locks’ plan for an aerial tram to the Benson Plateau, and her work as a Gorge Commissioner to federally protect the Columbia River Gorge.

Stewardship is core to Mazama values— conserving the mountain environment, protecting our history, and sustaining a healthy organization. As Mathew Brock states, “Vera has created a lasting legacy of preservation, both historical and environmental.” During this volunteer recognition issue of the Bulletin, we only thought it fitting to thank Vera for her years of leadership in the Mazamas. We hope that you will be able to join us to thank her in person at the Classics Luncheon on January 20.

JANUARY 2017 25

Rebolting, continued from page 23

Who organizes these outings? Are there different groups? Is it on an individual basis or are there established groups? Does Mazamas have a dedicated group?

The rebolting parties are managed through our local chapter of the ASCA and with support of Mazamas. The local chapter basically handles most of the southern Washington, Columbia River Gorge and local Portland area climbing areas, but we will extend our efforts to other areas in Washington and Oregon as needed. There are other groups in the Smith Rock region and a team of rebolters in Hood River that also initiate their own local work parties. We are grateful to all the volunteers that come out to help with the rebolting projects. The limiting factor up to this point has been that our group has only had access to one drill with the exception of those individuals who 26 MAZAMAS

donated their own equipment.

Our recent fund raiser has addressed this issue and we now have three bolting kits.

How do you raise funds?

Fundraising activities rely heavily on the climbing community for support.

Our local ASCA group has a fundraising campaign underway currently to raise $2,000 in the last quarter of 2016. This will go toward assembling rebolting kits, which will help us have more efficient rebolting parties and will support volunteers who don't have their own gear. The most costly items are the rotary hammer drills, which can run between $500 and $600 each.

This fundraiser is asking for donations which can be made via the donations link on the Mazamas website (mazamas. org/donate). When you make a donation, please note "Portland Rebolting Fund" so the funds are directed to the correct account.

Fundraising also happens once per year by the ASCA Head Office and is strongly promoted and supported by Planet Granite who matches all the funds raised annually in the month of October.

These funds go directly to the purchase of bolts and glue-in anchors which are then distributed to the local chapters on an as-needed basis giving consideration for the national efforts of all the ASCA chapters.

How can one pitch in and volunteer in climbing-related activities?

There are a number of organizations that organize volunteer opportunities including the Mazamas, ASCA, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and Washington Trails Association. Check out their

websites for more information.

If one wants to specifically get involved with the local rebolting they can contact us via our Facebook Group "Portland Vicinity ReBolting Effort" or via Adam Baylor at Mazamas.

To whom should one report sketchy bolts?

If one has issues with anchors that they have come across on a route, they should provide as much information as possible to help us identify the location of that anchor.

This information can be submitted to the Facebook Group "Portland Vicinity ReBolting Effort" or via Adam Baylor at Mazamas. I personally also post information on Mountain Project to help get the word out on sketchy

anchors. Information that helps in identifying the anchor in question should include date, closest town, climbing crag, route name, bolt number (starting from the ground), and a description of the issue.

Topher Dabrowski started his climbing endeavors early and has been adventuring and climbing all over planet Earth for almost 3 decades.

His activities include mountaineering, big walls, alpine, mixed, rock, ice, bouldering and long distance trail running. As an active member of the local ASCA rebolting chapter he can often be found replacing suspect anchors and reducing your chances of an expensive hospital bill.

Workshop

Pilates for Climbers

Feb. 12, 2017, Noon–2 p.m., $35 917 SW Oak St. (Stoke Pilates and Fitness Studio) For more details or to register email meg.goldberg@gmail.com or call 503-453-6344 If your spine is inflexibly stiff at 30, you are old. If it is completely flexible at 60, you are young. —Joseph Pilates Climbing can be a punishing sport on the body from hauling big packs up steep trails, to all the pulling, crimping, manteling and balancing on little holds in tight shoes. We want to be strong, we want to be balanced on the rock and want to be injury free. Join Meg for a two hour workshop and learn the foundations of Pilates and how to incorporate Pilates into your regular climbing and training program.

RO YO C C U K O R RE

routes. Perhaps it's a testament to the strength and robustness of climbing anchors that we don't have more issues with failures from bad installations.

Then again, maybe climbers aren't falling as much as we anticipate; but I have certainly come across more than enough anchor horror stories. Our local American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) Group that is actively replacing anchors is quite adamant about making sure that those who are rebolting are educated and knowledgeable about the process, following installation guidelines, and have access to the right tools. In realization that there is no formal certification, I am currently putting together a seminar that will be offered through Mazamas and will be required if one wants to volunteer with our local ASCA rebolting group.

Centered & Balanced

Pilates

Meg Goldberg Certified STOTT PILATES® Instructor 503-453-6344 meg.goldberg@gmail.com

A Year of

SUCCESS

at Madrone Wall Scheduled Opening of New Park in Summer 2017 Thanks to 19-year Effort

by Determined Volunteers

by Keith K. Daellenbach 2015: PROGRESS IS MADE A matching grant from Clackamas County Tourism and Cultural Affairs was given to the Madrone Wall effort. County Parks earmarked a funding allocation for park creation at Madrone Wall. At this same time, the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC) was approached by two anonymous donors who sought to provide large dollar donations and, along with smaller key grants from Mazamas, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and MWPC, the Tourism Grant was effectively matched.

JANUARY 2016 Capital Investment, Operation and Maintenance Cost concerns brought by the Clackamas County Board of County Commissioners (BCC) threatened progress on re-establishing access to Madrone Wall.

MARCH 2016 After many months of work, the BCC unanimously approved to move forward with the development and construction of the Madrone Wall project.

APRIL 2016 Final updates to the engineering construction documents which were completed and stamped by Professional Engineer Scott Nettleton of T. Y. Lin International. MWPC worked with Mr. Nettleton for seven years to complete these detailed drawings with input from the County and the Oregon National Guard. His pro bono assistance was truly substantial.

MAY 2016 After a seven-year engagement with the Oregon National Guard, which MWPC initiated and promoted, Oregon’s Adjutant General, Major General Michael Stencel provided the final signature necessary for the Community Assistance Project (CAP) for the construction project at Madrone Wall.

AUGUST 2016 For 16 days in August, the Oregon National Guard mobilized approximately 20 soldiers with the 224th Engineering Company of the 1249th Engineering Battalion at the site to resurface the existing quarter mile access road with aggregate and build out the aggregate parking area for 22 vehicles (including two for ADA parking).

This pro bono, public-public project saved the County substantial funds and, importantly, it was used as a meaningful annual training activity for soldiers that have at times been deployed into hostile theaters where their road building capability was mission critical.

The Guard soldiers completed an amazing job. They brought to the project a gung-ho, can-do attitude, and were professional and skilled. At the end of their training mission, MWPC feted them with a catered barbeque in gratitude for a job well done along with invited County Parks staff at the site below the Madrone Wall.

OCTOBER 2016 County Parks installed the vault toilet at the edge of the parking area. After confirming County direction for new hiking trail locations, MWPC, working

Photo: Keith Daellenbach

closely with Trailkeepers of Oregon (TKO), identified several qualified trail building leaders. TKO offered their website to register volunteers to pair up with these leaders.

NOVEMBER 2016 Over six days (three weekends), we improved the site amenities by building new trails up steep slopes from the parking lot to the base of the Wall and along the base of the Wall. Using TKO and Metro pick axes, pulaskis, cum-a-longs, steel iron levers, rogue hoes, shovels and 121 volunteers donating 750 hours we built 268 rock steps, 500 yards of new trail, and re-planted 20 ferns. Some rock steps weighed 600 pounds and took multiple people to place. Thank you TKO, Metro, Washington Trail Association, REI, Mazamas, Access Fund, Portland Mountain Rescue, County Parks, and MWPC and, most importantly, all the volunteers!

SUMMER 2017: WHAT'S COMING NEXT After 19 years of effort the goal to re-establish access and open a park at this amazing civic treasure, is on track for scheduled park opening in summer 2017!

A newspaper article in the Clackamas Review was published describing the effort: tinyurl.com/hbby56k.

Please note that this site is still closed due to expected peregrine falcon nesting and no additional volunteer work activities will occur during their nesting period. Please continue to respect the posted No Trespassing signs.

JANUARY 2017 27

TRAIL TRIPS

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HIKING

HK B1.5 Jan. 1 (Sun.) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop Susan Koch 971-678-3446. Start off the New Year with a lovely waterfall hike! Poles recommended. 5.4 miles, 1,700 feet, Drive 48, Gateway 9 a.m.

(WF,GH)

Fisher’s Landing Transit Center 8 a.m. (WF,GH, MU)

STREET RAMBLES

HK A1.5 Jan. 7 (Sat.) Round Lake Reuel Kurzet rkurzet@comcast.net.

We plan to hike Round Lake with its maze of trails but if it is too muddy we will hike the Lacamas Lake trail instead. In any case expect to see wildlife and some interesting winter foliage and waterfalls. Bring an umbrella and enjoy the hike—rain or shine. Reuel Kurzet will be leading as her provisional hike and Jim Selby will be mentoring her. 5.5 miles, 400 feet, Drive 30, Gateway 9 a.m. (MU)

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

HK B2 Jan. 1 (Sun.) Dog Mountain Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

A Mazama tradition. Summit Dog Mountain on New Year's Day. Traction, poles, and winter gear required. Contact leader for details or questions. 7.2 miles, 2,900 feet, Drive 98, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR) SS A Jan. 1 (Sun.) Trillium Lake Into the Dawn Snowshoe Regis Krug 503-704-6442 or regis_krug@ mentor.com. You must contact the leader to participate in this activity.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Leave the Trillium Lake SnoPark about 5–5:30 a.m. and snowshoe through the woods and over dale to the lake, complete the lake loop, and return via the road. Last year it was a crisp, clear, 16 degrees, so be prepared for cold weather. It will be a moderate pace so we don't overheat. 6 miles, 800 feet, Drive 100, SnoPark, Clackamas P&R Garage 4 a.m. (MH, MU) HK B2 Jan. 4 (Wed.) Eagle Creek in the Clackamas Foothills Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. This is the other Eagle Creek. We will travel through old growth forest.

Be prepared for some interesting creek crossings and slippery terrain.

Poles and waterproof boots a must.

9.4 miles, 1,200 feet, Drive 90, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jan. 6 (Fri.) Cape Horn David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com.

Come out for this picturesque gorge hike. We will hike in the clockwise direction, completing the road section first. Be sure to bring rain gear and good hiking shoes. This hike has some great views of the gorge. It can also be a great way to experience the power of the wind.

7.7 miles, 1,300 feet., Drive 32, 28 MAZAMAS

HK A1.5 Jan. 8 (Sun.) Mt. Talbert with Cave Bill Stein billstein. rpcv@gmail.com. Early RSVP recommended, as capacity is limited. Did you know there’s a secret cave on public land a short distance from Clackamas Town Center? Toward the end of a short loop hike, we will ascend off-trail to a cave entrance. There we will hang out in the cold or rain as, one by one, we get on all fours to enter a cave that can accommodate 20 people sitting or crouching. Bring clothes and shoes you do not mind getting muddy, and be sure to bring a strong light. 2.3 miles, 650 feet, Drive 3, Clackamas P&R Garage 9 a.m. (MU) HK B2.5 Jan. 8 (Sun.) Herman Creek (Slide Creek Falls) Bob Breivogel breivog@teleport.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. This trail parallels Herman Creek, 2 miles east of Cascade locks. Graceful waterfalls occur along several of the side streams that the trail crosses.

The location should provide some shelter from gorge winds, but be prepared for winter weather. Return to Gateway around 4 p.m. 10.8 miles, 1,900 feet, Drive 78, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (WF,WO) SS B2 Jan. 11 (Wed.) Chocolate Falls via Climber's Trail Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. A close-up look at Mount St. Helens.

From Marble Mount SnoPark, we

Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/aym/

will snowshoe the Worm Flows climbers route to timberline. 8 miles, 1,100feet, Drive 130, SnoPark, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jan. 14 (Sat.) Eagle Creek to Cascade Locks Jim Selby 828508-5094. We will start at Eagle Creek parking area and hike to Cascade Locks via trails and the old gorge highway. Then we'll eat in Cascade Locks at Bridgeview or you can bring your lunch. Should not be muddy. Return to Gateway by 4 p.m. 5 miles, 300 feet, Drive 76, TH, Gateway 9:30 a.m. (GH, MU) HK B2 Jan. 14 (Sat.) Pup Creek Falls (Indian Henry) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Clackamas River hike. Rushing waters and a trail with overhanging rock formations. Getting to the falls depends on stream levels. 8.5 miles, 1,300 feet, Drive 94, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,WO, MU) SS A Jan. 14 (Sat.) White River Canyon Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. We will venture up White River canyon approximately 2 miles, gain the west ridge via a 200-foot hill climb. At the top, have lunch and then travel off trail back down Boy Scout Ridge to the cars. Pace will be easy/moderate.

Bring ski poles and clothing for winter weather. Please contact leader via email to reserve a spot. 4 miles, 1,000 feet, Drive 110, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH)

HK A2 Jan. 15 (Sun.) Dry Creek Falls Tom Eggers 503-334-6356.

Sleep in a bit and hike when things warm up! Hike along the PCT just south of Cascade Locks to a delightful waterfall. Dramatic cliff walls and valleys along the route.

Might be an out and back or a return via a logging road and walk through town (adds about a mile to the distance). Watch the weather but plan on bringing rain gear and traction devices for your boots (and an umbrella if you wish). Should be back to Cascade Locks no later than 3 p.m. 5.4 miles, 710 feet, Drive 78, Gateway 11 a.m. (WF, MU) HK B2 Jan. 18 (Wed.) Gales Creek to Bell Camp Road Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Creekside ramble through second-growth forests of the Tillamook State Forest. Lots of waterfalls and stream crossings. 10.1 miles, 1,400 feet, Drive 95, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jan. 21 (Sat.) Elk Mountain Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. We’ll go up the very steep Elk Mountain trail and down along Elk Creek back to the cars. One of the classic coast range routes. The Elk Mountain trail is one of the trails maintained by the Mazamas. Traction (microspikes) required. 10 miles, 3,000 feet, Drive 85, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) HK B2 Jan. 22 (Sun.) Dog Mountain Loop Tom Eggers 503334-6356. A Classic winter hike or maybe a snowshoe trip. This Gorge classic can be a real challenge in winter, with high winds, and cold and snowy conditions. It's also a great workout with many rewarding

views. We'll head up the steep scenic trail—Dog Mountain Trail—to a series of lookouts, then on to the summit for more incredible, panoramic views. We'll descend via the easier Augspurger Mountain Trail.

Watch weather conditions as this could become a snowshoe trip. Good winter clothing, boots, trekking poles and traction devices required. Contact leader with questions. 7.2 miles, 2,900 feet, Drive 98, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR, MU) SS A Jan. 22 (Sun.) Tri-County Ridge Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. E-mail RSVP required by Sat., Jan. 21. Snowshoe to a viewpoint near the Clackamas, Hood River and Wasco County lines. If it's a clear day, we should have terrific views of Cascade volcanoes, evergreen valleys, and snowy plains. The early meeting time is to ensure room for our vehicles at a popular trailhead. Snowshoes, ski poles, and warm layers required. 3.2 miles, 768 feet, Drive 100, SnoPark, Clackamas P&R Garage 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH, MU) HK B2 Jan. 25 (Wed.) Northern Gales Creek Trail Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Woodsy Coast Range Trek–We will hike from Reeher’s Camp up to Bell Camp Road. Bring traction (Microspikes) in case of snow. 9 miles, 1,500 feet, Drive 90, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jan. 27 (Fri.) Bunker Hill Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. In the Wind River area, Bunker Hill is the site of a former lookout tower that was destroyed in the 1950s.

Five foundation blocks remain, but the summit has been completely reforested.

Best viewpoints are found on the rockier northeast side of the hill. 6 miles, 1,500 feet, Drive 65, MMC 8 a.m. (MU) HK A2 Jan. 28 (Sat.) Balfour-Klickitat River Dan Smith 971-331-4823. We will hike a loop at Balfour area for 1 mile and then hike the Klickitat River trail for 7 more miles.

The Balfour trail has a great bald eagle area so bring a camera. Dress warm with no cotton and wear boots to stay warm. The wind is strong on parts of the hike! 8 miles, 440 feet, Drive 141, Gateway 8 a.m. (GH)

HK B2.5 Jan. 28 (Sat.) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Gary Bishop gbish90@ hotmail.com. Wilderness —Limited 12.

Eagle Creek in its winter glory. Enjoy several waterfalls along this well-graded trail. Hike may be shortened or moved depending on snow and ice conditions.

(Sign up at Gateway TC only.) 12.6 miles, 1,080 feet, Drive 74, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m.

(WF,WO)

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain

SS B Jan. 28 (Sat.) Barlow Road to Palmateer Point David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limited 12. We will start at the Barlow Pass SnoPark and go south on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) until we reach the junction with trail 482. Turn left and continue to Palmateer Point where we will have lunch.

If the weather is clear we will have views of Mt. Hood, Barlow Butte and the Barlow Creek valley. Then we will either backtrack to the trailhead or, depending upon conditions, continue south to the summer trail junction to trail 495. Once on 495, we’ll head towards the PCT junction and then back to the trailhead. Be prepared for winter conditions. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. 6.2 miles, 1,500 feet, Drive 105, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH)

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

HK A2 Jan. 29 (Sun.) Silver Falls State Park Loop Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940.

Silver Falls Park is Between Salem and Portland. Some of the best waterfalls in Oregon. Moderate pace with lots of time for photos. Dress for winter weather. Meet at Tualatin Park & Ride Exit 290 on I-5, parking lot at SE corner Bridgeport and Lower Boones Ferry Roads. 7.8 miles, 700 feet, Drive 100, Tualatin (Durham) P&R 9 a.m. (WF) HK B2 Jan. 29 (Sun.) Wahkeena Falls to Devils Rest Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Be sure to bring poles and traction devices for this beautiful Gorge hike. Waterfalls, woods, and views. 7.2 miles, 2,400 feet, Drive 44, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH)

Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame.

Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants.

In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

503.684.9698

JANUARY 2017 29

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL

by Mathew Brock The December Mazama Board meeting took place at its new time, 3 p.m., on the afternoon of Tuesday, Dec. 13. President Steve Hooker called the meeting to order. There were no members present for the member comment period. A motion was made, and seconded, to accept the minutes from the October and November meetings. In the membership report, Secretary John Rettig noted that the membership now stands at 3,706. The organization continues to experience steady growth with Rettig noting that “every month is now a new record.”

Filling in for Treasurer Jon Jurevic, Executive Director Lee Davis provided a brief summary of the October month end financials. The organization reports total revenue for the month of $188,509 and expenses of $112, 919 with current total net assets at $1,486,000.

In his Executive Director’s Report Lee began by informing the board of the Gray Family Foundation's preference to fund upgrades to existing bathrooms at Mazama Lodge, rather than new construction of bathrooms in the basement. Remodeling the existing bathrooms will start in the spring when the snow melts. In conversations with the architects to improve the MMC, several options are under consideration included revamping meeting rooms, expanding office space, and redirecting flow within the lobby to reduce noise and improve reception. Lee noted that all committees have been sent the new communications and reporting plans to support the Department structure.

In external reporting, Lee will be traveling to Salem to meet with legislators to discuss the proposal for a State Office of Outdoor Recreation. After several months of work, a strategy is starting to take shape.

Leadership positions are forming, and a network of conservation and user groups are developing. The final piece of the puzzle involves funding. An Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife task force reported that to meet the conservation, outdoor education, and recreation needs of Oregon’s diverse user groups that sustainable and adequate funding will be required. The Mazamas have been invited to take a leadership role in this discussion. There was general agreement from the Board that we should continue to explore this opportunity.

President Hooker asked the Board to 30 MAZAMAS

Upcoming Board Meeting Dates: Jan. 10, Feb. 21, March 21, April 18, May 16 All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members.

approve the Executive Council Roles and Responsibilities Document. The motion carried and the policy document approved.

President Hooker asked John Rettig to liaison with nominating committee and alerted them of the final version. The longstanding invitation to join the Outdoor Alliance was then raised. President Hooker spoke for a few minutes about the extensive process that the Board and committees had taken to reach the pending vote. Climbing, Trail Trips, and Conservation Committees were consulted and each submitted statements of support. After a call to vote, the Board voted unanimously to join the Outdoor Alliance. Announcements and information about this will roll out in January and February.

Moving on to new business, Justin Rotherham was on hand to give a Department report on the Education and Activities programs. Justin stated that the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is close to deciding on a new location for class lectures and all student testing will likely take place at the MMC. He moved on to the roll out of the standardized plans for all education committees that have been in development.

It is intended that these operating plans will help streamline program operations and reporting. Activity program plans are currently in development and will be rolled out next. In his summary of the Climbing Committee report, he noted improvements in communications with climb leaders and that climb schedule goals are in development.

Justin Rotherham finished his Board presentation with a recap of two recent trips to leadership development conferences, one with the Mountaineers in Seattle, the other with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). He noted that it was the first time a volunteer run operation such as the Mazamas had ever attended a formal AMGA meeting. Justin found attendance at both conferences and the material presented impressive. He ended with a status update on the work of the Alpine 5 (Mazamas, Mountaineers, American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, and the Appalachian Mountain Club) to define standards for all forms of climbing in America. An MOU is nearly complete which will ratify this national framework and help us to create standards which align with UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation) guidelines.

Rounding out the new business before the Board were two project status reports, one from Teresa Bright on the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock, and another from Karen Natzel, Mazamas Foundation President, on the Foundation's plans to install solar panels on the MMC's roof. Teresa discussed the recent community open house hosted by the Mazamas and the State Park. The event was preliminary to the Conditional Use Permitting (CUP) process and allowed an opportunity to meet with neighbors and hear their concerns.

Neighbors reported strong concern about the increase in visitors to the park. Feedback received is being incorporated into revisions of the site plans and the scope of the project.

Mazama plans are also being discussed with Oregon State Parks as they are working on a new master plan for Smith Rock State Park.

As the option agreement is coming to a close in 2017 the board requested monthly progress reports on the project.

Karen Natzel, Mazamas Foundation Board President, shared with the Board the Mazamas Foundation's decision to move forward with the installation of the solar panels on the MMC. She reported that the foundation will be working with a co-op to help leverage available grants to assist with funding the project. She anticipates that the installation process should take between four and six weeks, with all the work occurring during the day. Thus no significant impact or disruption are expected to Mazama programs.

She concluded her remarks by saying that the Mazamas Foundation is happy to support a project that so well aligns with their tenant’s (Mazamas) values.

The public portion of the Board meeting ended with strategic planning business.

President Hooker recapped the planning timeline and deliverables, noting that the majority of elements were on track. Vice President Chris Kruell asked the Board for feedback on his and Sarah Bradham’s work to focus the Mission and Vision Statements. Lee then gave an update on his Environmental Scan of the organization as a whole. The scan covered Mazama efforts in outdoor education, activities, lodging and facilities, marketing, outreach, and stewardship, among others. Lee summarized his findings by noting that the Mazamas are at risk of losing community relevancy because of slow change and innovation in the core program-service model.

JANUARY 2017 31

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