Mazama August Bulletin

August/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 8 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high

Climbing team on the summit rim of Mt. St. Helens.

Photo: Jon Major.

FEATURES

Mazama Debriefing Team Celebrates 22 Years, p. 7 Rainier Bares Its Teeth, p. 8 Live Your Values, p. 10 The Explorers: Book Review, p. 12 Climb Leader Profile: Ania Wiktorowicz, p. 13 Mazama Families & Youth Outreach Programs: What’s the Deal?, p. 14 Ingalls Peak, p. 25

MONTHLY COLUMNS

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Successful Climbers, p. 6 Mazama Families, p. 15 Classic Mazamas, p. 18 20s & 30s Mazamas, p. 19 Lodge News, p. 19 Membership Report, p. 21 Trail Trips, p. 25 Outings, p. 29 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30

Cover: Justin Colquhoun on July 5, 2014, descending the Emmons Route on Mt. Rainier.

Photo: Benjamin Grandy

Contact Us

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Summer hours—open 7 days a week

Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)

Membership Benefits NEW!

Trailbutter (trailbutter.com) 20%. Go to the member section of the Mazama website for code. Also available at the MMC. Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section.

Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% nonsale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10% Rock and Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off.

Go to Mazama website for code.

U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.

Did you miss our Mazama Anniversary Feature on Facebook?

Don’t fear, you can review it in its entirety on our website. Take a trip down memory lane as we go back to the beginning and work our way decade by decade to present times. Enjoy!

Make sure not to miss out on any of our Facebook posts by liking the Mazama FB page today. There is a link directly from the Mazama homepage—mazamas.org.

Adopt-A-Crag:

Save the date!

Saturday, September 13, 2014 The Mazamas and the Access Fund’s Conservation Team will host a trail maintenance (Adopt-a-Crag) event on September 13, 2014 at Broughton Bluff climbing area. This opportunity is open to anyone with trail tending skills or for those looking to learn more. Give back to this local crag (Lewis & Clark State Park, Oregon) and have fun doing it! We’ll have food and drinks for volunteers and some cool swag! Stay tuned for more details Contact: Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

August/2014—3

REEL Rock 9

THE NORTH FACE®PRESENTS A SENDER FILMS PRODUCTION IN ASSOCIATION WITH CLIF BAR®AND BIG UP RODUCTIONS

When: September 17 & 18 at 7 p.m.

Where: Hollywood Theater Tickets: tinyurl.com/reelrock9tickets In its ninth year, the REEL ROCK Film Tour features a special presentation of Valley Uprising. The greatest untold story of American counterculture is that of the Yosemite Valley rock climbers. For the past fifty years, Yosemite’s massive cliffs have drawn explorers and madmen to leave materialism behind and venture onto the high, lonesome granite.

The larger-than-life characters of Yosemite carved out an “extreme bohemian” lifestyle in the Valley, living on red wine and boiled potatoes, clashing with National Park authorities, and pioneering the boldest climbs on Earth. The torch has been passed down across three generations of climbers; through rivalries, tragedies and triumphs, the art of Yosemite climbing has advanced beyond anyone’s imagination.

COMING FALL 2014

Jim Bridwell Collection

Valley Uprising is the riveting, unforgettable tale of this bold tradition: half a century of struggle against the laws of gravity—and the laws of the land.

Trademarks are properties of their respective owners.

4 —Mazama Bulletin

www.reelrocktour.com

Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Trail Trips Committee Monday, Aug. 11, 6:30 p.m.

Trail Trips Committee is recruiting new members! We like to have 12 members since that cuts the workload for everyone; we currently have 4 openings. Great opportunity to encourage Mazama members to hike and become hike leaders.

TTC meets the second Monday each month and we have been able to avoid any special meetings. If you can give 1½ hours per month and enjoy a productive committee you will fit right in! Contact co-Chair Jim Selby, selbyjb@comcast.net; or Rex Breunsbach, Rex.Breunsbach@ecd.com for more information, or join us at our second Monday of the month meeting.

Classic Mazamas Task Force Friday, Aug. 14, 11 a.m.

The Old Timers are now the Classic Mazamas! Join our task force to rebuild the committee and to help plan activities for those looking to travel at a more leisurely pace. We are currently recruiting for the following positions: • Classic Mazamas Chair: We need a capable manager to take over and lead the committee.

• Communications manager: this person will be responsible for managing communications with the Classic Mazamas listserv.

• Activity planners: these volunteers will plan hikes, as well as social and cultural excursions for the group.

For more information or to sign up, contact classics@mazamas.org.

Conservation Committee Wednesday, Aug. 20, 7 p.m.

The Conservation Committee seeks new members. We invite anyone interested to attend our next committee meeting on Wednesday, Aug. 20 at 7 p.m. at the MMC, to meet the current members and learn more about how you can get involved in activities such as: • Selecting grant recipients and overseeing grants to local community partner organizations • Supporting the Mazama goal of becoming carbon neutral through activities like tree planting

• Researching issues and drafting advocacy and support letters and engaging land managers and policy makers • Organizing talks and programs with conservation leaders, scholars, and public officials on key issues • Writing articles for the Mazama blog and Bulletin to keep members informed of conservation issues and successes Contact Ally Imbody, Conservation Committee co-Chair, aimbody@gmail.com.

Expedition Committee Thursday, Aug. 21, 7 p.m.

Expedition Committee is looking for new members! Our committee reviews grant applications and distributes funds. What fun, giving your fellow Mazamas money to go climbing! Join us at our third Thursday of the month meeting, or contact Ron Fridell, ron.fridell@comcast.net, to learn more.

Lodge Committee Tuesday, Aug. 26, 6:30 p.m.

Calling all lovers of the Mazama Lodge: the Lodge Committee, which assists with lodge maintenance, organizes volunteers to help with Lodge tasks and help plan special lodge activities, is recruiting volunteers for two open positions: Friends of the Lodge (FOTL) co-coordinator; and committee secretary.

The FOTL co-coordinator will: • Engage FOTL members in service to the Lodge • Maintain the FOTL roster and contact information • Communicate a list and schedule of needs to FOTL members The Lodge Committee Secretary will: • Attend LC meetings and record minutes to be distributed to committee members • Distribute minutes, finalize and gain approval to publish • Publish minutes to Mazamas as required • Contribute to Lodge internal PR releases via Mazama Bulletin “columns” To learn more about these or any Lodge Committee positions, join us at our 4th Tuesday of the month meeting; or contact the committee chair, Bob Stayton, rstayton@comcast.net.

MMC Handyfolk Ongoing Are you a fixer-doer-builder-repairer or in every way handy? The Mazama Mountaineering Center regularly has need for on-call volunteers to help with small repairs and adjustment, as well as with occasional larger projects. If you are interested please contact MMC Building Manager Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com.

Thanks!

Bookkeeping volunteers Flexible The office is looking for a bookkeeping assistant to help exclusively with data entry. The volunteer will be using deposit spreadsheets, the chart of accounts, and department lists to correctly record all organizational income. Schedules are flexible but busier at the end of the month. Contact Jamie Anderson, Member Services Manager, jamie@mazamas.org if interested.

Mazama Families Hike Leader Ongoing The Mazama Families Committee is looking for hike leaders to put family hikes on the schedule.

You may be a current hike leader for Trail Trips or 20s and 30s; or be totally new, we will train you! Family hike leaders should be enthusiastic about working with kids, and must be willing to obtain a basic first aid certification and pass a background check. Contact Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org, for more information.

20s&30s Climb Night Hosts First Monday of the Month Climb Night is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. We need friendly Climb Night Hosts to welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

Hosts can choose which of the local climbing gyms to host at. Contact Beth Copeland, 20sand30s@mazamas.org, to sign up or get more info.

August/2014—5

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 11, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: George Shay, Asst: Rae Lantsberger. Lisa Anderson, Tim Anderson, Carie Behe, Kelly Faga, Kurt Hiland, Greg Ragland, Allison Tigar, Rahul Trivedi May 25, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst: Walter Keutel. Bri Berglund, Akshay Dua, Joe Ferguson, Ben Jacob, Meggan Low, Jeff Maag, John Merrill, True Otis, Mason Purdy, Barbara Weiss June 6, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Jason Wagner. Loren Guerriero, Clark Hollenberg, Megan Holmes, Amy Mendenhall, Lisa Romano, Michael Street, Kaleb Wallace June 8, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Kirk Newgard. Beth Copeland, Ardel Frick, Heath Harrelson, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Long Ong, Liz Puskar, Roger Sharp, Mary Beth Turner

June 21, Mt. Adams, North Ridge. Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Skai Dancey. Tom Dodson, Michael Domeier, Alec Lawrence, John Rettig, Adonay Solleiro June 21, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Alex Fox. April Berlin, Matt Blecharz, Justin Colquhoun, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Brian Klump, Patricia Neighbor, Kirk Newgard, Peggie Schwartz June 21, Ingalls Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: David Cloud. Laura Baughman, Tom Baughman, Amber Beyer, Kelly Diephuis, Marci Hansen, Ally Imbody, Jon Skeen June 22, Ingalls Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Robin Wilcox. Elisabeth Kay Bowers, Nicole Castonguay, Ann Griffin, MaryMargaret Jenkins

June 28, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/ North Ridge. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Justin Brady. Dan Codorean, Pushkar Dixit, Paul Johnson, Magaret McCarthy, Andrea Ogston, Barry O’Mahony, Ryan Reed, Ted Slupesky June 29, Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier.

Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Rob Parker. Emma Burbank, Erin Devlin, Nick Hershman, Ember Kauth, Colleen Sinsky July 1, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Rico Micalleff. Stephanie Buer, Eric Docherty, Kevin Nelson, Kirk Newgard July 3, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Eric Kennedy. Hannah Carlton, Tyler Glisson, Amy Graham, Meryl Lipman, Meggan Low, Jeff Magg, Barry O’Mahony July 4, Mt. Baker, North Ridge. Leader: Jeffrey Welter, Asst: Tian Lan. Eric Brainich, Aaron Sieczkowski

June 11, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Martin Gillen.

Stephen Baker, Carie Behe, Bryan Oates, Trozell Weaver

July 8, Black Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Shirley Welch. Carol Bryan, Mike DeLaune, Micah Mayes July 11, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Ted Slupesky. Amy Graham, Meryl Lipman, Michael Magyar, Barry O’Mahony, Andrew Schiestl

June 14, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. Stephanie Bruckbauer, Lori Coyner, Sarah Miller, Amanda Pantovich, Jennifer Winslow June 15, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier.

Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Sanman Rokade.

Ann Ames, Tom Davidson, Stephanie Keske, Mike Levis, Sarah Lydecker

July 12, Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Alex Fox. Tyler Vaughn Bax, Amad Doratotaj, Laura Guderyahn, Kathleen Hahn, Rico Micallef, Lynne Pedersen, Greg Ragland

June 18, Shasta, Avalanche Gulch.

Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Chris Rears. Kirk Newgard, Jacob Raab, Jennifer Sutter, Tom Whitney, Alexis Yeh

June 21, Mt. Adams, South Butte. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: True Otis. Andy Bauer, John Leahy, Connor Neal, Patrick Neal, Greg Ragland, Kristofel Simbajon, Allison Tigard, Jim Wallace, Sahmie Yun June 21, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier.

Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Grant Causton. Krista Curtis, Barbara Ellington, Aaron Nelson, AnneClaire Nivet, Ben Stabley, Brooke Weeber, Apoorva Yati

6 —Mazama Bulletin

July 12, Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Leader: David Zeps, Asst: Andreas Wunderle. Mark Beyer, John Borsuk, Chris Corliss, Tom Decker, Ryan Johnson, Linda Musil, Jeff Nastoff, Mark Stave, Chris Wilson

Darrell Weston atop Mt. Rainier on July 12, 2013 after summiting via the Disappointment Cleaver. Andrew Ogston, 2014 ICS graduate, is photo bombing his selfie. Photo: Benjamin Grandy.

June 22, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Matt Blecharz. April Berlin, Justin Colquhoun, Alex Fox, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Brian Klump, Patricia Neighbor, Kirk Newgard, Peggie Schwartz, Mike Stephensen June 22, South Sister, Prouty Glacier. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Heather Campbell. Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Dave Groudle, Jean Hillebrand, Jennifer Van Houten, Karen Vernier June 28, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Brian Klump. Sara Carroll, Alice Chang, Eric Hall, Morgan Harvey, Marjorie Hendryx, Steven Loos, Kim Osgood, Seng Phou, Bill Smith, Joan Wallace

July 13, Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Dan Gerbus. Elizabeth K. Bowers, Ingrid Nye July 13, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Cathy Gaylord. Drew Gaylord, Sue Griffith, Krysti Lesch, Josha Moss, Adreanna Stanley, Joe Westerlund

Mazama Debriefing Team Celebrates 22 Years of Service Katie Foehl How could I have any idea that my dangling 50 feet down in a crevasse for two hours on Mt. Shuksan would lead to creating the Mazama Critical Incident Debriefing Team*? How did the July 1992 Shuksan incident trigger the organization developing this team? *CIDT was recently renamed critical incident stress management team to reflect the broader scope of its mission: to give Mazama members emotional first aid following an accident.

Shortly after the accident my climbing mentor, Al Cooke, called me with a million questions-–the start of many discussions.

At the time Al was a climb leader and long time Oregon City fire and rescue professional.

Al related to me: on the return to the fire department after a major fire he and his fellow fire fighters were frozen in silence. Al spoke out that they needed to start talking about all that had happened during the fire. By the time they arrived at the station Al said that everyone seemed to feel noticeable relief. His fire department had just begun using a local chaplaincy service that included medical and mental health professionals for critical incident stress debriefing. A debriefing is a guided discussion to talk about the event.

He strongly urged the Mazamas to implement a debriefing service. The seed had been planted.

Then began meetings with selected Mazamas from Executive Council, climb leaders, and mental health professionals.

Lis Cooper was instrumental in organizing the group and arranging debriefing training.

As a result, in the Fall of 1992 the Council established the Incident Response Committee to develop policies for accident management/investigation and post accident emotional aftercare. The ultimate

goals were continuous safety improvement and well-being of members participating in Mazamas activities. The two services eventually became separate committees-Risk Management and CIDT. Original Incident Reponse Committee members were: Al Cooke, Sylvia Cate, Lis Cooper, Doug Couch, Katie Foehl, Tracey Louden, Charles Maclean, Janet Nickolaus, Barbara Parker, Alan Profit, Dave Sauerbrey, Donna Vandall and Art Walker.

Original peer debriefers were: Sherry Aanerud, Sali Borchman, Sylvia Cate, Lis Cooper, Doug Couch, Katie Foehl, Joyce Follingstad, Billie Goodwin, Ed Holt, George Stonecliffe, Art Walker and Barry Wright.

Since 1992 an estimated 70 debriefings have been held and those involved in debriefings have given the team many gratifying comments. One particular thank you note from a climb leader that I remember: “The debriefing helped me recognize and release some of the emotions felt that day. It was an important step for me. I had no idea those emotions were bottled up. But even now I can smell the ozone and scree dust whipped up by the passing storm that afternoon. At least I better understand what we went through thanks to the debriefing.”

The team meets bimonthly and participates regularly in professional educational opportunities. If you are interested in joining the debriefing team contact Marina Wynton, Chair, Lee Davis, or check the Mazamas website.

Current team members are: Chair, Marina Wynton, Jim Farley, Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal, Katie Foehl, Mary Green, Ann Marie McCartney, Sandy Ramirez, Noelle Savatta, Greg Scott, Colleen Sinsky and Karen Vernier.

Note: Accounts of the Mt. Shuksan accident are in the 1992 Mazama Annual.

Mazama CISM Team to Provide Aid to the Sherpa in Nepal Join us on August 20 at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a special evening fundraising event to support the Mazama Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) Committee and their efforts to bring support services to the Sherpa of Nepal.

The Mazama CISM team is working in partnership with the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation to send a team of trained Critical Stress Management volunteers to Nepal to work with the Sherpa who were so dramatically affected during the accident this spring on Mt. Everest.

August/2014—7

RAINIER

by Eric Kennedy

I

t’s 2:30 a.m. on Friday, July 4. My fifth alarm goes off so I roll to my right, reluctantly, and somehow get out of bed without hurting myself. I manage to get dressed, grab my pack from the closet and some Red Bull from the fridge, fix a bagel with cream cheese, arugula, and lox, and hit the road. It was a terrible idea (getting on the road, not my choice of breakfast, which was delicious).

Go back a day to July 3rd: I assisted with my first Mazama climb, Amy Mendenhall’s single day climb of the South Side of Mt. Adams. We discussed it during BCEP snow weekend because I had done it the previous year with a 50+ pound pack for training purposes. I committed to assisting her on the climb because I wanted the experience to help me get into Leadership Development at some point. (Also, I had heard Amy is pretty cool, and those tales turned out to be fairly accurate.) She later admitted that she didn’t think I would remember making the offer to assist, given my blood alcohol level at the time. I hear there’s a new, probably unrelated “Glacier Snake” rule at Mazama Lodge ...

Anyway, it was a fun climb, in spite

8 —Mazama Bulletin

bares its

of the strong wind, intolerable slog up to Piker’s Peak, and the three hours of sleep I had gotten after work the day before. The team included Amy, me, three climbers from her then upcoming (and now successful) Emmons Glacier climb of Mt. Rainier, and six of her recent BCEP students. Nine of eleven summited; the climber who decided to turn around made a good decision. I was impressed that she was able to assess her situation and make the call even though the summit was less than a thousand feet above.

The friend who volunteered to descend with her demonstrated his commitment to the team and should be commended.

After summiting, we enjoyed that glorious glissade back down to the Lunch Counter, followed by thousands of vertical feet of slogging out. It wasn’t completely uneventful, though, as we discovered that the Crescent Glacier actually has some character! We identified a bergschrund starting to open up and some cracks lower on the slope. We crossed safely—there were no injured climbers to be put out of their misery and tossed in the ‘schrund—and we continued on our way.

Everyone was worn out by the time we returned to the cars at 5:15 p.m. Once the climb was officially over, we enjoyed some

TEETH

post-summit beverages and chips, a few people put on fresh clothes for the illusion of cleanliness, and summit certificates were distributed. I was on the road home by 6 p.m. I needed to swap out my pack from a one-day non-technical climb to a twonight technical affair, get as much sleep as possible, and drive myself to Paradise by 6 a.m. Five people would be waiting for me there; our target was Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Glacier, and I had committed to bringing one of the three tents. I thought it would be pretty badass to get both peaks in the same weekend. I was on a mission.

The night before climbing Adams, I had prepared by packing everything I would need for Rainier, then unpacking it, dividing it into piles of “Rainier only” and “Rainier and Adams.” In spite of this, switching my pack over was stressful, even with a couple cans of refreshing cider to calm the nerves.

I felt the crush of a deadline to meet my friends and knew that every minute spent preparing was a minute less I would get to rest. Various objects were thrown across my bedroom in frustration. I finally got into bed around 10:30 p.m.

Now we’re back to Friday morning: I should not have been driving. I was exhausted, having gotten at most four hours

of sleep. I was running behind schedule and the Red Bull didn’t seem to be working. I blasted music by The Offspring, hoping to wake myself. Eventually the combination of stimulants, loud music, and cold air kicked in, but it only lasted from mile marker 40 on I-5 until the turnoff onto Highway 706. I pulled over for a 20-minute power nap on the side of the road and then got back on my way with the help of yet another can of Red Bull. I arrived 20 minutes behind schedule—exactly the length of my power nap—got my climbing permit, met up with the team, and organized group gear. We started along the trail up towards Camp Muir around 8 a.m.

After half an hour or so, we turned off the trail and found a decent spot to drop onto the Nisqually Glacier. We scouted it from above beforehand and made a general plan to get across to the ridge we would follow up to camp. We did all the typical break activities—e.g., layer management, snacks, water, bladder-emptying, and sunscreen—and we roped up.

I was energetic but, given my somewhat-deteriorated mental state, I let my team know that I should be in the middle of a rope, the safest place for a weak link. Nate Mullen and Hannah Seebach gladly accommodated and were grateful for my honest self-assessment. They also thought I was crazy for attempting Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier in the same weekend (so did everyone on the Mt. Adams climb ... clearly they were onto something). We started climbing again, making our way around and over the crevasses on the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers.

As the sun beat down on us, it got hot; as in, I can’t open up the wraparound zipper on my NW Alpine onesie enough to get sufficient ventilation to cool down. Eventually we got out of the oven and gained the ridge, where we got that nice breeze we had been hoping for, and made our way to approximately 9,200 feet around 3 p.m. I was now on two miles of vertical gain in two days, with another vertical mile planned for summit day. I was tired but felt up to the challenge physically.

That previously-welcome breeze started picking up so we quickly made camp at some pre-established platforms.

We improved the stone shelters, melted snow, and Top: The first climb team, hunkered down and hoping for the winds to subside ate dinner. As the southwesterly wind continued to while in camp on the ridge on July 5. increase, we discussed our plan for the next day and decided to wake up at 1 a.m. to assess the conditions.

Middle: The team at the summit of Mt. Rainier on July 13.

We were concerned about high winds knocking ice

continued on page 24

Bottom: The upper portion of the Kautz Glacier on July 12; the dangerous rockfall/icefall chute is clearly visible on the right.

August/2014—9

Live Your Values

by Kati Mayfield

T

he Mazamas is a community of people united by our love for the mountains and propelled towards common goals because of our shared passions and interests.

A few years ago, the Mazama Strategic Plan Committee (Chaired by Paul Steger) surveyed committees and membership to identify the traits that unite us and to articulate them into a Mission, Vision and a set of Core Values. The Mazama Core Values, as they were ratified by the 2010-11 Executive Council (led by George Cummings), are: • Safety – As Mazamas, we believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

• Education – As Mazamas, we believe training, experience and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment and safety in the mountains.

Studying, seeking and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

• Volunteerism – As Mazamas, we believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

• Community – As Mazamas, we believe camaraderie, friendship and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and 10 —Mazama Bulletin

collaborate with those who share our goals.

• Competence – As Mazamas, we believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities and judgment required of their roles.

• Credibility – As Mazamas, we believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

• Stewardship – As Mazamas, we believe in conserving the mountain environment.

We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

Borne out of our shared philosophies, the Mazama Core Values represent both our organization’s commitment to the community, and the commitment that each of us as members of the organization has to one another. They give us a guide to understand what is expected of us in our dealings with fellow members and with the community at large.

Yet, for all their merit, our Core Values have been missing something. Read carefully, and you will notice that one value is implied throughout, but never explicitly mentioned.

That value is “Respect”.

Respect may have been left out of the Mazama Core Values simply because we assumed that if we uphold the rest of our values and strive towards these goals, respect will follow. Certainly, respect is something that we all expect in our dealings with

fellow Mazamas. But there is some fallacy in that assumption, because many of us can remember an instance (or multiple) in which we did not feel respected at the Mazamas.

So where have we gone wrong?

Respect is delicate. It is easy to treat everyone with courtesy and respect when the going is good and the task is simple; but a different matter when you factor in a difference of opinion or a difficult decision. In an organization composed of people as passionate and engaged as ours, disagreements abound; and when conflict arises, respect is hard to maintain.

But it is during these challenging times that respect is most crucial, because only if we respect one another are we able to take a step back from our disagreements, realign, come back to the table together and continue pursuing our ultimate shared goals.

Last fall, Executive Council decided that we have an obligation to protect and promote respect at the Mazamas. They formed a small task force to examine our culture of respect and to build institutional safeguards around it. The members of the task force are Executive Council members Meg Goldberg and Judith Baker, staff member Kati Mayfield and members Tom Eggers and Walter Keutel.

Start with Intention The “RespectNow!” Task Force’s first step was to find a way to help the organization become intentional about respect, rather than just assuming that

Safety Education Volunteerism Community Competence Credibility Stewardship

Mazama Core Values

RESPECT

people would behave respectfully. To do so, the group decided to integrate respect into the Mazama Core Values. Our newest core value now reads: Respect: As Mazamas, we believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

Establish Shared Expectations The group also realized that it would only be reasonable to expect everyone to behave respectfully if we all made an explicit agreement to do so. With this in mind, the task force developed a Code of Ethics and Conduct which Mazama volunteers will be invited to sign. The code asks volunteers to agree to behave in ways that live up to our Core Values.

Adding to the behavioral requirements and guidelines laid out in the Mazama Policies and Procedures and in our various committee and course manuals, the Code of Ethics and Conduct gives us another guideline to illustrate the type of behavior that Mazamas expect of one another. And it goes a step further by asking volunteers to agree to the expectations by putting their signature on the document.

Protect the Agreements We Have Made Finally, the task force tackled the question of what to do to protect respect.

Acknowledging that it can be easy to betray the confidence and respect of our peers, especially when we are under duress

and when we know that there will be little or no recourse for doing so, the task force wondered whether we behave more thoughtfully if we know that our peers have a clear set of tools that help them address our disrespectful behavior?

The answer is yes, which is why most organizations adopt disciplinary policies to deal with behavioral issues and interpersonal conflict. The task force developed a Disciplinary Policy for the Mazamas which was adopted by the Executive Council at their June meeting. The policy describes the types of behaviors that are contrary to our organizational policies, procedures, guidelines and values; and outlines what steps must be taken to ensure that the undesirable actions do not reoccur.

The Disciplinary Policy can now be found on our website, in the Members section under Live Your Values, and on the Policies page.

What this Means for You At this point you may be asking yourself, what are a Disciplinary Policy, a new set of Core Values, and a Code of Ethics and Conduct going to do to actually create a culture of respect at the Mazamas? These documents are simply tools, and alone they will not do anything. After all, the best crosscut saw in the world can’t clear a fallen tree off the trail by itself. It needs at least a few people putting muscle behind it in order to get the job done.

In that spirit, we are asking all of you to step up and begin testing the tools.

View the Disciplinary Policy, Mazama Core Values and Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct on the website: • Mazama Core Values: http://mazamas. org/about-us/mission-vision-plan/ • Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct: http://mazamas.org/pdf/otherpdf/ CodeofEthicsandConduct06_26_14.pdf • Disciplinary Policy: http://mazamas.org/ pdf/otherpdf/MAZAMA_DISCIPLINARY_ POLICY_06_10-2014.pdf Consider whether these documents resonate with you, especially the revised Core Values and the Code of Ethics and Conduct.

Then, take it a step further by throwing your hat in the ring and signing the Code of Ethics and Conduct. We’re going to begin asking this of all volunteers, but even if you aren’t an active volunteer you can sign the Code of Ethics and Conduct to indicate that you support this agreement.

Finally, tell us what Respect and the rest of the Mazama Core Values mean to you.

We want to hear stories of Mazama members upholding these values by exhibiting exemplary behavior or tangibly supporting our values. Share your anecdotes on the Live Your Values page on the website.

And keep your eyes peeled for the Live Your Values column which will now appear in each Bulletin and will highlight examples of the Mazama Core Values in action.

August/2014—11

The Explorers:

A Story of Fearless Outcasts, Blundering Geniuses, and Impossible Success Martin Dugard. Simon & Schuster, 288 pages (available in the Mazama library) Review by Lacy Turner It was no small miracle that John Hanning Speke survived his first expedition with Richard Francis Burton. On April 19, 1855, Speke fled down a Somali beach loosing blood from eleven stab wounds, one of which had passed through his right thigh into the ground. Burton fared slightly better; he extracted a long spear from his face, through one side of his mouth and out the other cheek. The Somaliland Expedition ended in ignominy because on that idyllic Indian Ocean night neither Burton nor Speke had remembered to post sentries. Their careers in exploration appeared to be over.

Yet two years later, the two explorers were back in Africa to find the source of the Nile.

Why in God’s name would Jack Speke, who barely survived his first trip with the bad boy of Victorian exploration, sign up for years of dysentery, parasites, malaria, and tribal attacks?

According to Martin Dugard, in his new book The Explorers: A Story of Fearless Outcasts, Blundering Geniuses, and Impossible Success, curiosity led Speke and Burton into the interior of Africa, and hope kept them moving. Until, that is, they reached Lake Tanganyika, at which point Richard Burton had had quite enough of Africa. He was so palsied with fever that he could not stand unassisted. Speke could not see Lake Tanganyika because he was blinded from burned retinas. Burton retreated to the nearest slave-trading hub to recuperate but Jack Speke, blind at times and hard of hearing—he had punctured his inner ear stabbing a beetle that had camped inside—marched north to discoverer an enormous lake, Victoria Nyanza. Why did Speke soldier on? Because he possessed not only curiosity and hope but all seven of the traits that Dugard posits are common to explorers: curiosity, hope, passion, courage, independence, self-discipline and perseverance. Not only must explorers have all seven traits, the author maintains that it is crucial they “display them in specific order over the course of a journey. Take away one—just one—and an expedition was doomed to failure.” The Kirkus 12 —Mazama Bulletin

Review called Dugard’s seven traits theory a “gratuitous hook” that nearly ruins a fine adventure story. I disagree. The Explorers is not simply another book in the crowded Burton-Speke canon, but an examination of explorers’ motivation through the ages, from the first lone African who walked out of the Olduvai Gorge a half million years ago to the Apollo moon landing. Dugard employs the story of Burton and Speke as a loose framing device, so loose in fact that the book is in large part a digression into the tales of other explorers. A chapter on each trait— curiosity, hope, passion, courage, et al—gives Dugard carte blanche to bring in any number of wickedly interesting adventurers.

For example: we leave Burton and Speke at the beginning of the chapter on hope and during their 50-page absence meet St. Brendan the Navigator, the Egyptian Hannu, Christopher Columbus, Captain James Cook, and the amazing Isabel Godin.

In the mid-1700s, Isabel walked from the equatorial Andes to French Guiana, over mountains, through jungles, seven days naked with no supplies, the only survivor of her 43-person entourage, to join her beloved husband. It is the true outliers, like Isabel and Ewart Grogan that make The Explorers a gripping read.

Ewart Grogan is fittingly found in the chapter on passion. He walked from Cape Town to Cairo, 1897 to 1900, to prove his mettle to his future father in law. We also rejoin Burton and Speke and the inception of their feud over the source of the Nile.

Burton claimed Lake Tanganyika was the source. The moment he stood on its shores, Jack Speke was convinced that Lake Victoria was the source of the Nile. The feud became an international sensation and spawned the Victorian version of a media feeding frenzy.

In the hands of a lesser author, linking the two intrepid explorers with a theory of traits that explain the human urge to explore could come off as pretentious, but Dugan’s passion for explorers carries the reader with him.

That said, the author expands his hypotheses into pop psychology and the reader might find this just a tiny bit gratuitous.

Publisher Simon & Schuster is pitching The Explorers with “Learn to unlock your inner explorer.” The book claims that “there is an explorer within each of us, silently longing” to put curiosity, hope, passion, courage, independence, self-discipline, and perseverance to good use “to climb our own personal Everest.” Has Dugard twisted one of the richest sagas of the Victorian Age of Exploration into psychobabble? Not at all.

His suppositions about our inner explorers provide bookends for hundreds of riveting pages—take them to heart or leave them in the dust of a good read. The author’s forays into brain chemistry, however, are like interrupting ripping good yarns with science lessons. Please, for the sections on passion and courage in particular, do not mention dopamine; let us keep our heads in the clouds.

Speaking of which, Dugard’s claim that “modern readers can thank mountaineers” for lifting exploration writing from dry reportage to poetic literature is followed by what he calls the “defining climbing quotation” of all time. It is George Mallory’s brilliant page-long answer to the “Why climb Everest?” question. (He later condensed his answer into a sound bite for the New York Times: “Because it is there.”) Mallory is in good company with inspiring passages from French climbers Lionel Terray, Louis Lachenal and Gaston Rebuffat. Readers who feel compelled to read fascinating little known facts aloud should be warned: The Explorers contains hundreds of them, enough to send your partner running for cover.

This fine writer circles effortlessly back to Burton and Speke. The outcome of their feud sent shock waves through the Victorian world. Of that redoubtable pair—Richard Burton, the dark and difficult hedonist and Jack Speke, an ordinary man who accomplished extraordinary things—it is Speke whom Dugard holds up as the “epitome of an explorer.”

Ania Wiktorowicz • Provisional Climb Leader Residence: Beaverton Hometown: Small, but adorable town called Tarnow in Poland.

When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? I took BCEP in 2011 to become a better climber and fell in love with

the community. Many friendships were formed and many memories were created in the last three years.

What are your favorite climbs/ hikes? My absolute favorite hike in the area is the Elk-King traverse. It offers beautiful views and is challenging and rugged enough to make your time worthwhile. I also enjoy Ruckel Ridge in the Gorge. I don’t really have a favorite climb. I love all of them—whether it’s rock or alpine.

There are times when I’d say that

I’m done with a mountain, but six months later my body and mind forget all the abuse and I’m back at the trailhead again ready to go up to the summit.

Best climbing memory: Glacier Peak climb two years ago. Four days in the wilderness with friends.

I remember waking up in the middle of the night to an odd noise. I looked outside of the tent only to stand eyeto-eye with a deer licking my friend’s backpack. It was so engaged in getting all the salt off the backpack straps that it didn’t mind me filming it from inches away. On that climb we also encountered a marmot that was very interested in our rap anchor and just absolutely had to chew on it. We had to temporarily trap it in the cave, which didn’t make the marmot very happy.

Future climbing goals? Whatever life brings my way.

Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: My teddy bear called Kazik. It’s on every summit with me, strapped to my backpack. It is a great conversation starter and is also known for comforting injured

climbers on the mountain.

Guiding principle/philosophy: Never underestimate your ability to climb something harder. At the same time, respect the mountains and be humble. Trust your gut feeling and know when to turn back. Climbing is all about the journey, adventure, learning from each other, pushing your psychological and physical limits and creating great memories— reaching the summit is only a side effect.

Favorite quote: Keep smiling—it makes people wonder what you’ve been up to. ~ Author Unknown Favorite music/musician: It really depends on the mood. Bob Marley, Nirvana, Jacques Brel, Metallica, Bob Dylan, Frank Sinatra, just to name a few.

Favorite movie: The Three Colors Trilogy by Krzysztof Kieslowski.

Favorite restaurant: My grandmother’s kitchen. There is no restaurant in the world that could match that. I learned how to make mean pierogi from her.

Words that best describe you: Funloving ice cream eater that never stops exploring.

Favorite vacation spot: The Himalayas.

When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? Hanging out with friends.

Hobbies other than hiking/ climbing: Music—I love singing and playing weird instruments like ocarina, bagpipes and a few others. When I’m feeling extra brave I write music.

Occupation: Accountant at an amazing nonprofit company that helps people in need.

August/2014—13

Mazama FAMILIES & Youth OUTREACH Programs—What’s The DEAL?

by Kati Mayfield Over the past few years, the Mazamas has been concentrating on new initiatives to help kids learn about mountaineering and discover a love for the outdoors. The Mazama Families programs have been building great classes and activities, and we’ve also launched a few youth programs and partnerships. But there has been some confusion about the distinction between the “families” programs and the “youth” programs. The main differences between the Mazama Families and Mazama Youth Outreach programs are: Mazama Families:

Mazama Youth Outreach:

Encourages parents and kids to participate in classes and activities together

Creates programming for kids who wouldn’t otherwise get a chance to do Mazama-type activities

Is open to member and non-member families

Is building partnerships with schools and other non-profits to engage kids directly through those partners; and parents generally aren’t involved

Is a fee-for-service program

Will fundraise (through grants and individual donors) to expand this programming

Is a standing committee, being run by Mazama members and parents

Is being managed by Mazama staff

To add clarity, we’re going to start referring to the youth programs as Youth Outreach Programs. Of course, the Families and Youth Outreach programs are very complementary and overlap in many ways. For example, volunteers with both programs are required to pass a background check; and some pilot programs (like the Youth Climb Camp) have been dual efforts between the two groups.

If you’re interested in supporting this exciting trend to get more kids outdoors, contact Mazama Families Chair, Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org; or Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager, kati@mazamas.org.

Mazama Youth Outreach Programs Info Night and Fundraiser— August 27 The Mazamas invites you to our fundraiser event to benefit the Mazama Lodge Outdoor School program.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center The Mazamas is expanding its youth program offerings to create more shared outdoor experiences for our younger generation. The youth outreach program will give them opportunities to engage with nature and the environment. The Mazamas is working with our partners in Multnomah Education School Districts Outdoor School to offer a two days and one night camp at the Mazama Lodge for 5th grade students. We are planning to do a pilot program with several 5th grade classrooms in the spring of 2015. Our purpose is to provide a unique, place-based experiential learning opportunity for these students.

14 —Mazama Bulletin

Mazama Families

Mazama Families activities have recently expanded beyond hiking. Eric Einspruch led a true overnight backpacking trip to Twin Lakes in late June, and everyone had a blast! In fact, it was popular enough participants had to be divided into two groups.

Our children contain to amaze us. We have been especially impressed by the composure kids can display under adverse situations. While on a week-long climbing and camping trip in the City of Rocks, Committee Co-Chair Andrea McKee took her 9 year-old son Sam, and his friend Keelan up Bath Rock, a granite formation in the park. While on top, a cold front suddenly and unexpectedly passed through. Keelan had already rappelled down, but while Sam was setting up, a black cloud enveloped the team, the temperature plummeted, and skies open up with sheets of rain and hail. Although soaking wet and shivering, Sam kept his cool, carefully feeding his rope into his rappel device and doing his BARK safety check. Once he was safely on the ground, he told his friend to seek shelter under a boulder while he gave Andrea a fireman’s belay. Despite torrents of cold, cold rain, he diligently held the rope to ensure his mother rappelled safely. We are extremely proud of Sam and all our kids.

Properly training kids and giving them plenty of time to practice their new skills are critical pillars underpinning the Families Committee. Fulfilling both, registration is now open for the Mazamas newest initiative and training program: Families Mountaineering 101. This course will include one classroom session and one outdoor weekend activity each month for 9 months beginning in September. We will introduce kids and adults to backpacking, snow camping, rock climbing, snow climbing, first aid and navigation, through interactive MMC hands-on sessions and field sessions held at Horsethief, Mt. Hood, Smith Rock, and Mt. Tabor. Many of the monthly sessions are available as individual skill builders. Qualified graduates will have the necessary skills for Mazama A and B climbs.

For full details including registration, visit www.FM101. trauma & PTSD & PTSD org. Anxiety & Depression & Depression Family Climb Night returns to the MMC in September! This Addictions ns is theStress perfect setting to introduce your child to roped climbing

little steps lead to BIG STEPS

Twin Lakes backpacking trip. Photo: Eric Einspruch

skills such as tying in, climbing command sequences, belaying, passing pro, rappelling and more. Parents can also get in some climbing and skills practice, and a toddler table will be set up for aspiring little climbers. With a potluck dinner and other games for the kids, it is a great social opportunity, allowing members to meet other adventurous families while introducing your children to climbing or allowing them to practice skills they already have.

The Families Smith Rock weekend is September 26–28. We have a wonderful families-style weekend planned, with car camping potlucks, hikes to view Monkey Face, exploring the Terrebonne Corn Maze and climbing in small groups through the park. Open to participants of all abilities. Come to hike or come to climb, or some of both!

For information on all these events and more, visit www. mazamafamilies.org or join our email list by dropping a line to families@mazamas.org.

EMDR

Drew Prochniak MA, LPC, LMHC

Supporting the health, well being, and potential of Portland residents

Correction In the July Bulletin two of the Mazama Families contributors’ names were misspelled. Luca Einspruch, age 9, the author of the first Kids’ Corner, and Eric Einspruch, the photographer of the photo on page 27.

a PTSD anxiety de traum pre ssion MDR addictions stress E 503.308.9408

www.dprochniak.com

August/2014—15

Left page: Andrew Holman on top of the Cosmiques ArĂŞte on the Aiguille de Midi.

Mt. Blanc is in the background. [Mazama Outing to Chamonix, July 2014.] Photo: Lisa Brady.

Top: Prusik Peak (left), McClellan Peak (right), and Tranquil Lake below. Photo: Karl Helser.

Middle: Walking off Little Annapurna (Washington). Photo: Karl Helser.

Bottom: Katie Mills and Richard Stellner celebrating the summer solstice roasting weenies on top of Munra Point. Photo: Todd Torres

Mazama Blog— Video Feature We would like to showcase your video on the Mazama Video of the Month feature on the Mazama Blog (mazamas.blogspot. com. Videos made by Mazamas, featuring your climb, backpack trip, ski adventure, hike or other outdoor activity are needed. Please consider sharing your wilderness passion with your fellow Mazamas by sharing your video. Submit URL of your YouTube- or Vimeohosted video, along with a concise introductory description, to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

Classic Mazamas 25 years or more of Mazama membership We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

Thanks go to Dick and Jane Miller for hosting 60 Classic Mazamas at their beautiful home and gardens on July 5. What a wonderful gathering! In early July we also launched the Classics listserv. If you are interested in joining or would like to opt out, send an email to classics@mazamas.org. We have one more Classics Task Force meeting on August 14 and an introductory meeting to the new Classics Sept. 3. In addition, if you are interested in leading a Classics event in September, please email kateevans97@gmail.com by August 12 so it can be included in the Bulletin, listserv, and webpage.

Wednesday, Aug. 6: Springwater Corridor Hike We will stroll along the Springwater Corridor (a flat trail) for two hours, observing birds, other wildlife, river views, and artwork. Bring a lunch; we’ll sit at the tables by the river in Sellwood Park after the walk. Meet at Sellwood Riverfront Park at 10 a.m. Leader: Heather Rosenwinkel 503-244-9016.

Thursday, Aug. 14: Last Task Force Meeting, MMC, 11 a.m.

Our last Task Force meeting will be at 11 a.m. in room 3 at the MMC. Please bring a lunch. We will continue planning the Classic Mazamas introductory meeting on Sept. 3, and the lunch at the Lodge Sept. 12. We are also discussing needed volunteer roles and future Fall events.

Wednesday, Sept. 3: Classic Mazamas Introductory Meeting, MMC, 6 p.m., room 3 Come see old friends, meet new ones, and learn how you can be part of the new Classic Mazamas. Are you interested in planning and leading hikes, walks, or social and cultural excursions? Do you want to manage the Classics listserv or help other Classics find transportation to Classics events? Do you want to help manage the committee? Come be involved in our new group.

Friday, Sept. 12: Lunch at the Lodge, 12:30 p.m.

Come join the Classics for lunch at the lodge at 12:30 p.m. You can drive or come in a van or bus provided by the Mazamas. The lunch is free, but the van or bus will cost $10, and leave from the MMC at 10 a.m. If you are interested in the van or bus you MUST rsvp to Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail .com or 503-267-8937 by Friday Sept. 5. If you are not riding in the van or bus please RSVP to Dyanne for lunch by Tuesday the 9. If folks are interested we may do a short walk from the Lodge after lunch.

Classic Mazamas Lunch at the Lodge Sept. 12 Dick Miller Join us on September 12 for a visit to review what’s happening these days at the Mazama Lodge. Lunch there at 12:30 p.m. is free to Classic Mazamas! You can drive yourself or come to the MMC on Stark Street at 10 a.m. and, for $10, ride in a van or bus with a group of folk. This is a no-hiking, no-bushwhacking, no-camping, no-cooking day trip!

We’ll return to the MMC mid afternoon. This will be as much fun as the potluck picnic, but all you need is a smile and a good appetite.

Call or email Dyanne Foster at 503.267.8937 or dyfozter@gmail.com

by Friday, Sept. 5 to reserve a seat for the ride to Mazama Lodge. If you are driving yourself, please RSVP for lunch to Dyanne by Tuesday, Sept. 9.

18 —Mazama Bulletin

20s & 30s Mazamas

The 20s and 30s Mazamas lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

Saturday/Sunday, August 9-10—Backpack: Three Fingered Jack Loop

Friday, Aug. 29 to Monday, Sep. 1—Labor Day Camping Trip: Lassen

This event is full. Please contact Keith Dechant to get onto the waitlist. keith.dechant@gmail.com

Mark your calendars! This year’s Labor Day camping trip will be to Lassen Volcanic National Park in Northern California! More details will be announced soon, so please check our website.

A 20-mile loop starting at Santiam Pass and circumnavigating Three-Fingered Jack. This is a one-night backpacking trip leaving Saturday morning and returning Sunday evening. Exploratory. Group will be limited to 8 for logistical reasons. Backpack: 20 mi loop over 2 days, 2600 ft. of elevation gain. Drive: 280 mi RT. Meeting time and location TBA. Leaders: Keith Dechant and Matt Reeder.

Monday, August 18—Pub Night: Migration Brewing Company

Volunteer with 20s & 30s:

Are you looking for a way to get more involved with the Mazamas? Maybe you just finished BCEP and want to volunteer some of your time to give back to the organization that has launched your climbing career! Check out the following opportunities, and contact aym@mazamas.org for details, or attend our meetings, held at the MMC the last Thursday of each month at 6:30 pm.

Join us the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at Migration Brewing, 2828 NE Glisan St. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also great time to find out what we’re up to, to plan your next adventure and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures; extra points for pics from Mazama events. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe!

Social Media Master(s)

Help 20s & 30s reach out to future Mazamas by writing a bi-monthly email newsletter, tabling at Mazamas Discovery Night, and keeping photo albums current. Improve exposure and volunteerism.

Pub Maestros

Be a host at monthly pub nights held through the metro area. Welcome newcomers and help introduce the range of classes and activities offered by the Mazamas.

Lodge News

Climb Night Hosts

Indoor rock climbing is held once a month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and nonmembers, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

Winter Weekend Coordinator

Plan the largest party the 20s & 30s host each year at the Mazama Lodge in early winter. Coordinate a schedule of snow-related activities, promote the weekend to new participants, and organize carpools.

Chief Organizer

We need a brave soul willing to attend the 20s & 30s Committee once-a-month meetings, keep minutes, and serve as a liaison with other committees such as Executive Council, Trail Trips, Conservation, and Risk Management.

Activity Leaders

Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running? Becoming an activity leader takes just a few steps: become a Mazama member, lead a provisional activity and get first aid certified.

Open 7 days a week, until Sept. 2.

Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards, 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Congratulations to Craig Henry and his son Kevin who just summitted Mt Hood on June 21. Many Mazamas have the luxury of living less than 100 miles from some amazing glacier peaks. Craig grew up in Portland, graduated from Grant High School in 1962 and became active in the Mazamas. His professional career took him to Ohio nearly three decades ago where he’s an architect with the University of Ohio in Columbus. Despite the thousands of miles that separate him from the Cascades he has maintained his membership with the Mazamas for 38 years, and during his recent

Mark your Calendars!

Mazama Lodge Gala & Annual Fundraiser

visit out to Oregon he introduced his son not only to the summit of Mt. Hood but to two nights at Mazama Lodge.

Hike Week: August 18–22 at Mazama Lodge.

Hike Week starts on Monday, August 18, with four legs instead of two, as Nicole Peltz leads hikers and llamas to Hidden Lake. Plan on arriving at Mazama Lodge at 10 a.m. for either the backpacking portion of this trip (only one spot left) or the day hiking portion (many spots left). If you have never hiked with llamas and are curious about how this all works, then come up to lodge. The only cost is the Mazama Hiking Fee of $2. Check the hiking schedule in the Bulletin for other hikes that leave from the lodge.

Join us on Sept. 21 for food, fun, camaraderie and a small fundraiser to support annual maintenance and improvements at Mazama Lodge. Learn more about the upcoming parking lot project and future capital improvements to Mazama Lodge!

Craig and Kevin Henry postclimb at Mazama Lodge.

Photo: Charles Barker.

August/2014—19

Did You Know?

An occasional column on earth science and the mountain environment.

Flower Factoids

by Barry Maletzky The forest floor holds more wonder than merely mosses and leaves. Indeed, the majority of organisms in our biosphere may well populate the top layer of earth we can see and the multitude of layers beneath it. Worms, tiny and large beetles, grubs, billions of bacteria, and other unloved and understudied creatures thrive in these depths; without them, life on our planet could not exist.

These creepy-crawlies fragment and devour the dead and dying plant and animal material from above and provide, in turn, food for larger inhabitants of the understory. By metabolizing this material, they provide essential minerals and sugars which the plants up top require for photosynthesis, thus absorbing carbon dioxide and providing avian, reptilian and mammalian life with the oxygen these species need to live. Soil bioscience is just now gaining credibility, especially since DNA coding can help us understand the amazing diversity and interconnectivity of this subsurface world. This small universe invites more of our attention. A new Encyclopedia of Life (eol.org) is now attempting to gather detailed information on all known and new species and making it available to all of us free on-line.

Poetry Corner Sharp Dressed Man Long Sleeves. Long Pants.

Bugs ain’t bitin’ me, they got no chance.

They come a buzzin’ just as fast as they can, ‘Cause every bug’s crazy ‘bout a sharp dressed man!

–Robert Joy Serenity prayer to the Mountains Gods Grant me the courage to take on the challenges I can The humility to realize when to turn back And the wisdom to know when to do which –Rick Craycraft

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20 —Mazama Bulletin

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Welcome New Mazamas!

Stephen Baker—Mt. Hood Carie Behe—Mt. St. Helens Lynny Brown—Mt. St. Helens Krista Curtis—Mt. Hood Joseph Fox—Mt. Hood Jason Hodge—Mt. Hood Ryan Johnson—Mt. Shasa Justin Kulish—Mt. Hood Colby Lawn—Mt. Hood Marc Milobinski—Mt. Hood Cynthia Mosser—Symmetry Spire

Aaron Nelson—Mt. Hood Rob Neyer—Mt. St. Helens John Nuttbrock—Mt. St. Helens Drew Prochniak—Mt. Rainier Richard Sandefur—Mt. St. Helens Adonay Solleiro—South Sister Lee Tintary –Mt. Shasta Thomas Ulrich—Mt. St. Helens Francisco Villa—Mt. St. Helens Christine Yankel—South Sister

NEW REINSTATED DECEASED

Reinstatements Margaret DiUlio (1982), Rick Hoffman (2009), Richard Hunter (2009), Jerome LaBarre (1990), Gary Rischitelli (1989), Michael Sander (2001), Elliot Shuford (2007), Timothy Welch (2011)

June 30, 2013: 3,330 June 30, 2014: 3,304

+ + -

21 8 0

+

29

Spend five days trekking a remote Bedouin trail to the ancient city of Petra. Additional nights in the desert of Wadi Rum and Amman.

Ranked by National Geographic as one of the 15 best hikes in the world, this trip is supported. You do not have to carry any gear.

Contact Donovan Pacholl for the full itinerary.

donovan@embarkadventures.com/503-922-1050.

August/2014—21

Time Warp Jack Grauer

1964—50 Years Ago

1914—100 Years Ago

The Nominating Committee, chaired by W. H. Oberteuffer, announced the candidates for the Executive Council: Walt Ericksen, Tom Gibbons, Clint Harrington, Betty Parker, Pete Setala, and Amos Smelser.

Ericksen, Harrington, and Parker were elected. Don Eastman was elected as the new president to succeed Erwin Rieger. A good climbing season enabled 34 people to apply for membership.

A lodge work trip was planned for teen-agers. They were offered free lodging, meals at half price, and swimming at Frog Lake. They were under the guidance of Margaret Oberteuffer, Dottie Gibson, and Katie Barker.

C.W. Howard wrote of a successful climb of Castle Rock in the Columbia Gorge. We now know it as Beacon Rock, where a good trail leads to the summit site of an abandoned rotating beacon light that guided airplanes in the Gorge. This rock stood 1,146 feet high and was considered impossible to climb.

For many years there was a standing offer of $1,000 to anyone who could place the American flag on the summit.

In early times there was keen rivalry between the men of two steamboat lines whose ships plied the Columbia River.

Frank Smith, George Purcer, and Charles church of the Regulator Steamboat Line succeeded in 1901 by using ropes, iron pins, and unlimited nerve. They planted the Stars and Stripes and the Regulator banner to wave in the breeze. After 1901, a few small parties succeeded on Castle Rock. Mazama Frank W. Benefiel led a small climb in 1912.

On October 4, 1914, E. C. Sammons led a Mazama scouting party that included C.W. Howard, Anne Dillinger Sammons, and Mrs. C.E. Dillinger, known as “Auntie.” The night before, they left the train at Butler, Washington at 7:30 p.m. and hiked 2.5 miles to a camp near the rock. Sammons, Howard and Miss Dillinger began the climb after an early breakfast.

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22 —Mazama Bulletin

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Howard’s story noted how impossible the route seemed from the bottom. The rock was overhanging in places and virtually perpendicular in others. The trio worked back and forth along ledges and pulled themselves up on scant shrubbery. The most difficult part was about 600 feet up, where the trail ended at the base of a chimney leading to a bald, 60-foot face of rock without handholds or footholds. The previous climbers had drilled holes, set iron spikes, and then hung a rope from the top. The Sammons party found the spikes loose and the rope rotted, so the they drilled new holes, set new spikes, and hung a new rope. Then after a few moments on the summit, they began their descent. After they descended the rock face and the narrow chimney, Sammons put his weight on a dead fir tree. It was rotten and snapped, falling with Sammons as his companions watched in horror. With an agile mind and muscle, he twisted his body to fall about eight feet to a ledge, with his feet dangling over a 200-foot precipice. The four returned safely home.

On October 11, Sammons returned to lead an official Mazama party of 47. He hung several ropes, which were of great help to some of the less experienced climbers. They placed a Mazama summit register on top.

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Donald M. Kemper Sr. July 27, 1933–July 1, 2014 Donald Kemper Sr. passed away July 1, 2014 in a fishing accident. Although his passing was unexpected, his last adventure was doing something he loved.

He was born in Hartmal, Colo., to Melvin and Nelly Kemper. The family moved to Ridgefield during the Dust Bowl and Don lived in Clark County for 78 years.

He was a sergeant in the U.S. Army during the Korean War and served in the U.S. Army Reserve for another eight years. He married Dianne Nickels in 1956 and they raised three children together. Dianne passed away in 1999 from lung cancer, and Don married longtime friend, Joyce Keefer, in 2005.

Don was a leader, teacher and community volunteer. He worked hard to establish the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge and served as chair of the Ridgefield School Board. He served as president of the Mazamas (1984), the Northwest Blacksmith Association, Artist-Blacksmith’s Association of North America, and on the boards of many wonderful organizations.

With the Mazamas Don was a Basic School lecturer, a Basic School group leader, led Outings, was a climb leader, and an active blacksmith he made the door handles for the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Find more details on Don’s life, along with remembrances from his daughter Diana, on the Mazama Obituaries page online—mazamaobituaries. blogspot.com.

Remembrances Mark Richard Hanschka July 7, 1933–June 1, 2014 Mark Richard Hanschka was born in Newark, N.J. and his early years were spent in Montclair. Following a first trip abroad in 1954, seeing Europe still ravaged from war, he wrote, “I came home a much more mature young man, able to appreciate my good fortune, see my country with different eyes, and make better decisions about managing my life.”

Mark graduated from Harvard Medical School in 1961.

Upon coming out West to scout residency programs with a fellow classmate, he climbed Long’s Peak in Colo., and then Mt. Hood. His decision to practice 29 years at Kaiser Permanente allowed him to stay in Oregon, climb all sixteen major NW peaks (award #350) as a long time member of Mazamas, and do the work he most loved.

Both Mark and Ezma were active Portland Mazamas, enjoying many hiking, backpacking, climbing, and skiing adventures together. Mark, Ezma and Tamim Kaswari led a two-week Mazama hiking trip to Kauai in 2000, and Mark and Ezma led a 1997 outing on the Rogue River. They also participated in numerous outings over the years.

Mark and Ezma moved to Sunriver in 1998 upon Mark’s retirement. While both Mark and Ezma continued their outdoor activities with other “transplanted-to-central-Oregon” Mazamas, he was particularly proud of his 13 ski runs from the summit of Mt. Bachelor on July 4, 2012, when the mountain had enough snow pack to be open for that holiday.

Mark’s vitality and generous spirit will be greatly missed by his large family and friends.

Find more details on Mark’s life, with remembrances from his daughter-in-law, along with Vera Dafoe, on the Mazama Obituaries page online—mazamaobituaries.blogspot.com.

Charles Glenn Carson Feb. 17, 1929–April 30, 2014 Charles “Chuck” Carson was born in 1929, and moved to Lake Oswego in the early 1940s. He lived in Oregon for most of his life.

His great passion in life was mountain hiking and volunteering on Mt. Hood. He volunteered for many years for the U.S. Forest Service, working out of the Zigzag Ranger District of the Mt. Hood National Forest. He joined the Mazamas in 1983, and was a member when he died.

Chuck is survived by his children, Sharon Carson, Laurie McAfee, Susan Schmidt, and his partner, Caryl Behrend, along with a very large extended family.

August/2014—23

Read Jon Skeen’s account of the successful Kautz Glacier climb, Rainier Rematch on the MAZAMA BLOG—mazamas.blogspot.com

Rainier, continued from page 9 down from above. When the alarms went off, the winds were terrible, but we delayed the final call until 4 a.m. By then, the wind still had not improved so we called it and went back to sleep. We spent all day Saturday in camp, eating, sleeping, and playing games such as “toss the rock into the hole in the snow.” We hoped that Saturday night/Sunday morning would bring better conditions so we could attempt the summit.

It didn’t. In fact, the winds were even worse, sustained at well over 40 mph with even higher gusts. It was coming out of the south-southwest, directly at the ice pitches we intended to climb, located 2,000 feet above our camp and unlikely to have lower winds. We decided that the objective hazard was way too high. It would have been insane to go up the route in such conditions, let alone descend it in the warmer afternoon temperatures. There was no dissent in the group and, as a team, we called it right then. We went back to sleep, such as it was, given that we were sleeping in tents that felt more like bongo drums in the wind, and returned to Paradise after a quick breakfast.

During the hike out, at brunch afterwards, and via email in the days following, we expressed the typical doubts and secondguessing that comes with bailing from a climb. Did we make the right call? Could we have summited? Were we just being overcautious or maybe searching for an excuse not to climb?

No. The answer is no. It was absolutely the right decision.

The mountain will still be there the next week, month, or year— excepting the occasional catastrophic eruption (looking in your direction, Mount St. Helens)—so it’s simple. There is no shame in bailing if the objective hazard is too high, if the conditions are terrible, or if it really just doesn’t feel right. Most Mazamas aren’t out there putting up first ascents; you probably won’t get in the record books for your brazen winter attempt on Old Snowy in 100 mph winds, unless you’re the first person to lose all four limbs on the route and still manage to survive. Even then, that isn’t really the sort of record you should strive for and your climbing career would probably be over. Just go climb the s*** out of some s***, have fun, and be safe while doing so.

And learn a lesson from my experience from that weekend: if you’re too tired to drive to the climb, stay at home! Email, text, or call your team members and let them know the situation. If 24 —Mazama Bulletin

Top left: Climb team near Point Success on Rainier Attempt 2. Top right: Mt. Adams summit team. Bottom right: The author near Piker’s Peak on Mt. Adams.

they don’t understand or think you’re a selfish jerk, you probably shouldn’t be climbing with them anyway. (It turns out that there was a contingency plan in case my tent and I weren’t able to make it to Paradise by 7 a.m.) I made a stupid decision and am fortunate that I did not suffer for it. Granted, it would have been pretty sweet to get that third mile of vertical and second summit in the weekend, but it isn’t like anyone would buy me a pint for it.

The conclusion to the tale: the next weekend, we went back to Mt. Rainier, which had not yet exploded. There was one personnel substitution to the team. We camped at Cougar Rock Friday night then climbed to 11,250 feet on Saturday and made camp. On Sunday we climbed the Kautz Glacier under the light of the Super Moon, summited, and descended via the Disappointment Cleaver route. It was a fantastic weekend, conditions were stellar, and not even a group of 24 jive-ass fools out of Utah could ruin it for us (though that is a story for another day, pending a National Park Service investigation).

July 4-6 team: Ally Imbody, Eric Kennedy, Jason Lee, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, and Jon Skeen July 12-13 team: Ally Imbody, Eric Kennedy, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, Jon Skeen, and Kevin Vandemore.

Ingall’s Peak

by Karin Mullendorf Jessica Schlump, Cigdem Milobinski and I had been trying to choose our next adventure for the weekend ahead. Because skiing or climbing near Portland didn’t sound like an option due to the high temperatures, we decided to make the 5 hour drive and climb Ingalls Peak where the weather forecast promised highs in the 70s.

Perfect!

We made it a leisurely trip and arrived at the trailhead on Saturday afternoon with the plan to make camp there and climbing the following day. The idea of carrying light packs and avoiding the possiblity of a night-time goat-licking sounded better than humping heavy packs up to Ingalls Pass and sleeping amid salt-loving quadrupeds.

In addition, while looking for beta of the route through the Mountaineers website, we serendipitously learned a group of them were going to be there on Saturday. Wanting to avoid them, too, we started the climb at 5:45 a.m. on Sunday. As luck would have

Mazama Member Special

it, another group that was hoping to start at the same time forgot their NW forest pass and had to go get one. We saw this as an opportunity to go fast and furious and claim the peak for ourselves. Fortunately, route finding was not an issue—mostly because we had gotten very good beta from fellow Mazamas Chris Kruell and Elisabeth Kay Bowers, who had climbed Ingalls several weeks earlier. The snow was mostly melted at the lower elevations and most of the trail up to Ingalls Lake was clear. From there the route was partially covered with snow and ice axes were required. It ended up taking us exactly 3½ hours to get to the base of the route. From there it was easy sailing. Being a team of three, we all had the opportunity to lead. A little scramble to the first pitch was followed by a 5.4 climb. We chose the 5.6 variation for the second pitch. The last pitch was a short 5.4. Because we had been warned the night before that thunderstorms were predicted for the afternoon, we made sure to move efficiently.

Pilates is a mind body exercise that focuses on core strength, flexibility and posture, and is a great complement to climbing, hiking, and backpacking.

Just as the dark clouds were rolling in, we finished our third rappel and were ready to walk back. We made it back to the car in just over ten hours, ate some delicious treats from Marsee Baking, and happily left the trail. Goal accomplished.

Tips: 1. If you want to camp at the trailhead there are only a few conceivable places that can accommodate a tent that aren’t right next to your car. designated for a tent. If you are more flexible, there are plenty of nice camping spots along the river a couple of miles down the road that are FREE and at least one campground for $8/night.

2. If you decide to camp at Ingalls Pass or Ingalls Lake be aware of goats.

We saw a couple of backpackers that left their hiking poles outside their tents overnight, and the hand grips were completely eaten.

3. Stay up on the trail. If you start hiking down you are going the wrong way.

4. Bring doubles of cams #0.5 to #2.

EXTRA POINTS if you use larger hexes.

Want to give Pilates a try? Mazama Members can receive 10% off an introductory private package or an introductory mat package. Call Pacific Northwest Pilates at 503-292-4409, or go to: pacificnwpilates.com.

Discount valid for packages purchased by Sept. 30, 2014, only for private or classes with Meg Goldberg. Based on availability. All packages expire within 6 months of purchase date.

August/2014—25

Go Hiking!

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions.

To lead a hike in August, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

HK C3 Aug 01 (Fri) Wildwood Trail. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@gmail.com. THIS IS NOT AN EASY HIKE! This is a thru-hike of the Wildwood Trail. You will need to be in good enough physical shape to hike 30.1 miles in one day at a pace of 3mph. Please email the trail leader to get info about meet up time, location, details, and for leader to assess physical ability of member. 30.1 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 0 Email Leader for details. MU

HK C2 Aug 02 (Sat) Cast Creek to East Zigzag Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Lots of switchbacks along a forested ridge. Lunch on the summit of East Zigzag Mountain where we enjoy very close-up views of Mt. Hood as well as fine views of Burnt Lake, with Mt. Jefferson in the distance. 12.4 miles 2,970 ft. Dr. 93 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 02 (Sat) Tualatin Valley National Wildlife Refuge. Bill Middleton 503-816-0549.

Nice trail walk for everyone. Usually lots of birds and other wildlife. 6 miles 120 ft. Dr. 0 Meet at the refuge 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 03 (Sun) Eightmile Creek Loop.

Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Loop hike that includes forest and ridgeline views. Lunch at fire lookout. No sign-up list. 6.2 miles 1400 ft. Dr. 160 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 02 (Sat) Cape Horn. Jim Selby 828508-5094. This trail gets better every year and we get an early start to beat the crowds. This hike has great Gorge views, wildflowers, waterfalls, and a wonderful lunch spot 7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m. MU

New! Gear Demo Program Thanks to a generous donation from Leki, we have just launched a new Gear Demo Program. We have 30 pairs of Leki Corklite trekking poles for you to take for a spin, 20 unisex and 10 women-specific.

Costs: 10 days—$2 members/$5 nonmembers. One month (members only)—$5.

Reserve online at mazamas.org/resources/ gear-demo-program/ or just come in to the MMC. Then head for the hills and see what you think of Leki’s lightweight trekking pole.

Even better, take a photo of yourself in action and post it to our Facebook page and tag Mazamas and Leki.

Grab a pair for your next trail trips hike and always be sure-footed on tricky terrain.

26 —Mazama Bulletin

HK B2 Aug 03 (Sun) Gorton Creek-Nick Eaton Ridge Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail. com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This hike from the Herman Creek TH utilizes the Nick Eaton and Gorton Creek trails to form a loop featuring views and summer flowers. 8 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C1.5 Aug 03 (Sun) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Scenic hike to the second highest peak in the Mt. Hood National Forest and site of a former lookout tower, as the name implies. 10.4 miles 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 05 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Mazamas business office 503-227-2345.

Leave from REI- Pearl (NW 14th & Johnson) starting at 6 p.m. Bring headlamp.

HK A2 Aug 06 (Wed) Forest Park Loop. Mark Sanzone msanzone@yahoo.com Close in 1/2 day hike, done by noon. Meet at Birch TH parking lot on NW 53rd. (First one coming from Cornell Road) 503-679-0962 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 None 9 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 07 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK B2 Aug 08 (Fri) Grizzly Peak/Mt Jefferson Wilderness. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This is an early bird special exploratory hike in the Mt Jefferson area with a summit of Grizzly Peak. Including wildflowers and great views of the South & SW side of Mt Jefferson & Pamelia Lake below. Should be a fun day! 10 miles 2,700 ft. Dr. 250 miles TH Tualatin (Durham) P & R 7 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Aug 09 (Sat) Harry’s Ridge on Mt. St. Helens. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Wilderness

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson.

The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat.

Total time: 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 feet Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m.

Area—Limit 12. Come see great views of Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake. 6 miles 200 ft. Dr. 220 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 09 (Sat) Ape Canyon. Wayne Lincoln 503-245-9193. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Hike up through forest and onto open slopes of Mt St Helens and onto Plains of Abraham. View the healing destruction. Great views in good weather. Depending on abilities we may return via the Muddy River and Jackpine Shelter 11 miles 1,500 ft. ft. Dr. 160 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 10 (Sun) Salmon River Trail (Upper).

Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. We will be hiking through Douglas fir forest and have lunch at a viewpoint overlooking the Salmon River huge canyon land. 7.2 miles 950 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 10 (Sun) Big Huckleberry Mountain.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Hike up to Grassy Knoll than on up to Big Huckleberry Mountain. Expect to find flowers and Huckleberries along the way. 10.8 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 138 TH Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 12 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK A1.5 Aug 13 (Wed) PCT at Lava Bed. Kent Meyer (360) 574-0784. This hike is on the Pacific Crest Trail along the big lava bed south of Indian Heaven. The PCT has easy grades, but we will be

Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and reminders of hikes you have RSVPd for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/

A group of Mazamas atop Munra Point on the longest day of the year.

Photo: Katie Mills.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory.

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12.

MU=Hike is posted on Meetup.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

going uphill back to the trail head. 7 miles Est. 800 ft. Dr. 120 TH L&C near toilets. 8:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 14 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK A1.5 Aug 16 (Sat) Lacamus Lake Trail. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Enjoy nature at Lacamas Lake at a leisurely pace. Abundance of birds, stunning views of Mt. Hood, more of a stroll and photo opp than a vigorous hike. 7 miles 100 ft.

Dr. 30 Gateway 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Aug 16 (Sat) Wahkeena-Angels Rest. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. We will ascend past the rushing waters Wahkeena Creek and then cross the ridge to Angels Rest and its spectacular views. This hike uses a shuttle. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft.

Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Aug 16 (Sat) Paradise Park (from Hwy 26). Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. . Most of snow will be gone and wild flowers out. Great view’s and good work out! Call for a spot but that will open up at 6:50 ! Bring a camera for some great pictures 12.7 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 7 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 17 (Sun) McNeil Point Shelter. Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Time to visit the western pasqueflowers in the high meadows around McNeil Point. We’ll ascend the scramble trail, lunch at the shelter, and descend the McNeil Point trail. 8 miles 2,250 ft.

Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 17 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop.

Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Excellent conditioning hike with amazing views. Steep

and long, bring enough water and proper gear.

Exploratory. 10 miles 3650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 19 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK B2 Aug 20 (Wed) Saddle Mountain. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. A favorite summer hike in the Coast Range. Promises views of the beach and on a good day distant Cascade Range peaks.

This is a very enjoyable hike! 7.2 miles 1,900 ft.

Dr. 96 TH Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Aug 20 (Wed) Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. We will hike from Timberline Lodge, cross Zigzag Canyon, visit Paradise Park and continue north, crossing the Sandy river on our way to Ramona Falls. Plan on a long day, Car Shuttle 15 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 70 TH Mazama Lodge - Government Camp 8:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 21 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK C1.5 Aug 21 (Thu) Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Hike down across the White River canyon, then climb up along Gnarl Ridge to the 7300 foot level on the East side of Mt. Hood. Finishing near the historic Cloud Cap Inn. Car Shuttle, Plan on a long day. 14 miles 3,600 ft. Dr. 100 TH Mazama Lodge - Government Camp 7:30 a.m.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th.

Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

continued on next page August/2014—27

Trail Trips, continued from previous page HK C2 Aug 22 (Fri) Bear Point/Mt Jefferson Wilderness. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@ gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This hike starts at the South Brietenbush trailhead and heads straight up from there. The scenery and the elevation gain on this viewpoint hike will take your breath away. 7.6 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 250 Airport Rd Park and Ride, Salem 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Aug 23 (Sat) Lava Canyon.

Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Lower Ape Canyon with rare wildflowers, waterfalls, and a couple of helpful ladders, fun hike in August 6 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 23 (Sat) Elk Mountain Loop. Barry O’Mahony barry.coyotecreekranch@gmail.com (503)7032952. Oregon Coast Range Fairly strenuous for a “B” hike, we gain over 1900’ in the first 1.5 miles to the summit of Elk Mountain. We return to the TH via the more sedate Elk Creek Trail. This hike involves some scrambling in spots. 8.5 miles 2,950 ft. Dr. 60 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 23 (Sat) Salmon River Combo W. Marilyn Zigler mszhike@ gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Jewel of the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. Combine the Old Salmon River trail with the Canyon. Beautiful in all seasons; follows the rushing river, climbs thru old growth forest to a sweeping viewpoint of the Salmon River canyon. 10 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 85 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 26 (Tue) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK B2 Aug 26 (Tue) Tour of Heather Canyon W. Ed Rea 503-282-3935.

Wilderness Area—Limit 12. MAZAMA LODGE HIKE WEEK One of the best places for late wild flowers and spectacular views of Newton Clark glacier. One of the prettiest creeks on Hood with multiple water falls. Begin at main parking lot at Mt. Hood Meadows (ski area) and climb to join Timberline Trail. Heading north we’ll hang a left at Clark Creek and continue up the creek, crossing as necessary so be prepared with your best rock hopping or get the feet wet.

The most direct route will at times require scrambling up the edges of the rock benches. Meet at Mazama Lodge. Questions? Call the lodge 503-272-9214 & ask for Ed Rea evening before hike. Trekking poles strongly recommended. 8 miles 680 ft. Dr. 24 Mazama Lodge 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 27 (Wed) Paradise Park W. Ed Rea 503-282-3935. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. MAZAMA LODGE

28 —Mazama Bulletin

HIKE WEEK Classic wildflower hike with superb views of Hood’s south & west sides. Time permitting we may extend the hike to the north edge of the park. Meet at Mazama Lodge.

Questions? Call Ed Rea at the Lodge 503-272-9214 evening before hike.

Trekking poles recommended. 12.7 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 18 Mazama Lodge 8:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 28 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Leaders to be announced. See August 05 for details HK C2 Aug 28 (Thu) Barrett Spur W. Ed Rea 503-282-3935. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. MAZAMA LODGE HIKE WEEK Best views of Coe glacier’s ice fall and seracs complete with off-trail wildflower stroll to the spur and overlook into Elk Cove. North side of Hood at its best. Meet at Mazama Lodge.

Questions? Call Ed Rea at the Lodge 503-272-9214 evening before hike.

Trekking poles recommended. 9.8 miles 3,280 ft. Dr. 80 TH Mazama Lodge 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 29 (Fri) Lookout Mountain/ Divide Trail W. Ed Rea 503282-3935. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. MAZAMA LODGE HIKE WEEK Great views from Lookout Mountain overlooking Badger Creek Wilderness and central Oregon Cascades to the south, Hood to the west and Rainier to the north. Hike east on the Divide Trail and lunch at Palisade Point on pillow lava cliff top. A little side hike to Oval Lake below the point is optional. 6.7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 72 TH Mazama Lodge 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 30 (Sat) Cape Horn.

Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Cape Horn Labor Day weekend hike. Beautiful views on this iconic and accessible gorge hike. Just enough elevation to make it interesting. 7 miles 1,400 ft.

Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 30 (Sat) Waucoma Lakes Loop W. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Hike to four high gorge lakes & the upper ends of trails not often traveled. Views of Hood, Adams, Goat Rocks, and Defiance.

Reach the summit area of Green Point Mt. Hike a forested ridge to a view of Tomlike Mt. All in a day’s hike! 16.5 miles 3,170 ft. Dr. 145 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B1.5 Aug 31 (Sun) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop. Susan Koch 971-678-3446. Lots of waterfalls on this loop. New hikers welcome. Poles recommended. 5.4 miles 1700 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m.

Adventure Travel OUTINGS—LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sept. 28–Oct. 12 Full/Alternates Only.

Fifteen day camping and hiking outing to Utah’s Desert parks. Arches, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Bryce, Capitol Reef, and Zion National parks.

Hiking at A to B level on Slickrock terrain with occasional exposed traversing and easy scrambling.

Costs: Estimate $595 to $435 for group of 6 to15 (including leaders). Camping, Mazama fees included. Possible reduced cost depending on campsites used. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs.

Full details in the July Bulletin and online.

Grand Canyon Trek Oct.10–17, 2014 Full/Alternates Only. See information in the July Bulletin.

Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved.

Our ascent to the summit is along the littleclimbed Lemosho and Western Breach route.

Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th

What Is Your Outing Wish List?

Where would you like to see Mazamas Outings go? Please let the Outings Committee know where you dream of exploring, and we’ll see if we can work on providing that trip.

And maybe you’d even like to lead or assist! Send your ideas, suggestions and aspirations to us at mazamas.outings@gmail.com. Thanks! class climbing. As we trek through the lowlands we will learn about different cultural and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro.

We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people. Local diets and new foods can be explored, as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market.

Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi.

Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater.

In-country cost for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants, while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500.

Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations.

Leaders: Paul Steger, (503-998-6188, PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem (503-3413996, erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by Sept. 15, 2014.

Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland July 22–Aug. 2, 2015.

This outing takes us to the fjords of western Norway and the dramatic, adjacent mountains of Romsdal. Our base will be the scenic town of Molde where we will stay in an up-scale hostel, which offers private rooms and includes breakfast. We will visit scenic coastal fishing villages and historic farms.

Every day will include hiking, some easy and some more challenging. After acclimatization to the active outdoor life that Norwegian’s call “Frilufsliv,” meaning life in the open air, we plan to climb the Klovstein path with views of precipitous Trollstigen highway and hike the more challenging Romsdal Ridge. Finally, we will embark on a three-day, hut-to-hut trek through the heart of the Romsdal Mountains.

Land costs include lodging, transportation, heritage farm tour, breakfasts, and two dinners. Not included: transportation to and from Molde, Norway; museum fees; lunches; and dinners other than ones included. Cost: $2,200 to $3,600, depending on number of participants. Deadline for application: Nov. 1, 2014. Required deposit: $500. Contact: Eric Hoem, leader (503-694-6036; erichoem@ comcast.net) or Paul Steger, assistant (503998-6188; paulsteger612@gmail.com).

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

BEACH HOUSE IN ROCKAWAY. Quiet. Safe. Sleeps 6. Located on the beach side of tracks. $95 night/$570 week. 503-636-0252 HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member

since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

August/2014—29

Executive Council Minutes (Official minutes pending approval) Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter—President; Sojo Hendrix—Vice-President; Meg Goldberg— Secretary; Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber. Absent: Terry Donahe— Treasurer, Judith Baker, Amy Mendenhall, and Lee Davis, Executive Director.

Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

Agenda: Add outings waiver and travel policy.

The minutes of the June 10, 2014 meeting were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report

by Heather Campbell. There were 21 applications for membership, 8 reinstatements, 0 deceased with a net change of 29 members. Total membership as of June 30, 2014 was 3330 showing a net increase of 26 members since June 30, 2013.

Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit. As of May 31, 2014, Mazamas total operational revenue is $759,931 and operating expenses are $778, 316. Assets (cash) available for general operations are $617,898 and current total assets as of 5/31/14 are $1,439,059.

May is traditionally a low-income month for Mazamas, and remained so this year. The new computer systems were paid for. The receipt of the Weinstein estate, over $11,000 in employee-matching donations and volunteer grants, as well as continued pledge payments for the Ice Wall and $7,200 for the Beacon Rock film has helped maintain cash flow.

Next month the third quarter reforecast will be prepared and presented to Council, along with a draft budget for the 2014/15 fiscal year.

Executive Director’s Report: No report.

Youth Program Development: Natasha Mayestha, Mazama Youth Program Development Intern. Kati Mayfield introduced Natasha to Council. Natasha is working with Mazamas for the summer as a Youth Program Development Intern.

Natasha presented to Council the three projects in development for the summer: 1. Mazama Lodge Outdoor School: This program is to outreach 5th grade students in Portland Metro area. It will be a two days one night camp for the students at the Mazama Lodge. We will hire a curriculum developer and partner with MESD Outdoor School. In mid-August we will have a listening session of 5th grade teachers to assess the needs for the students.

30 —Mazama Bulletin

July 8, 2014

2. Mazama-Outdoors Empowered Network (OEN) Affiliation: The OEN is a non-profit organization who is trying to expand their program nationally. The Mazamas is planning to be one of their Affiliates. Their program focus is to train teachers and educators about best practices of leading groups of youth in outdoor educational and recreational experiences.

3. Learn to Climb class: The program will teach kids the basics of rock climbing, and it will be a one-day class held at the MMC. The target is more for youth who would otherwise not have the opportunity to do so. They can be at-risk youth or those who come from the minority communities.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Expedition: In recess until 9/14 • Financial Affairs • Outings • Outreach • Risk Management • Strategic Planning • Trail Trips No report submitted: • Climbing

Sojo Hendrix moved to accept the consent agenda.

Motion seconded.

Motion passed.

Action: Approved.

Regular Committee Reports AYM: Bronson Potter/Sojo Hendrix: AYM requests Council approval of the committee to change the name to 20s & 30s Mazamas. Council wants AYM to know no action is needed by Council for name approval as AYM is not listed as a standing committee in the bylaws.

Unfinished Business Q hike Policy: Meg Goldberg/ Sojo Hendrix.

Risk Management,

Outings and Climb approved the “Q” hike policy. Trail Trips still needs to weigh in. The taskforce will change the name of the new category to something other than “Q” hike.

Travel Policy: Bronson Potter. The travel policy was brought up at Council by Terry Donahe back in March to address an issue of when classes will be canceled due to inclement weather. The draft policy reads as follows: Inclement Weather Travel policy Mazamas frequently conduct activities in areas that experience inclement weather. It is the policy of the Mazamas those leaders and coordinators of activities shall inform themselves of weather forecasts for the area where the activity is occurring and along the route to be traveled to the activity site.

In the event that a public agency such as ODOT, WSDOT, NOAA or NWS issues a warning that travel should only be undertaken for emergency purposes at the area of an activity, or along the route to get to or from the activity, then the activity shall be cancelled and participants shall be notified of the cancellation.

Even if an activity is not cancelled during

Most of us have learned to “expect the unexpected” in this game of life. Accidents happen and, while traumatic, most times the body damage can be easily repaired. When it takes longer to recover, and you are unable to return to work for awhile, the one thing you don’t have to worry about is money coming in. This is because you have properly “bridged the gap” by purchasing income protection insurance. Tomorrow may be too late. Talk to me today about protecting your income against unexpected injury or illness.

Income Protection Solutions Janette Pipkin, Mazama member since 1995 503-936-6626 • janettepipkin@gmail.com • incomeprotectionsolutions.com

inclement weather, each member is expected to use good judgment in deciding if it’s possible and safe to travel to the activity. If it is unsafe for an individual to travel, they should remain at home.

The policy was approved by risk management and the education committee.

The next step is to send the policy to governing documents and governing documents will bring it back before council.

Outings Committee Fee Waiver. Joan Zuber. Joan Zuber and Kate Evans brought to the attention of Council that back in September Council approved Outings request approval to waive Outings Fees for its members after the members first full year on the committee; and if the member completes a full term on the committee, the member would have his/her Outings fees waived for all future outings while a Mazama member in good standing. Joan and Kate expressed concern about the fiscal cost of this decision and other committees such as Trail Trips only waive the fee for committee members while on the committee.

Meg Goldberg, liaison for Outings Committee will revisit the fee waiver with the Committee and have it as an agenda item in September.

New Business: Steve Hooker on behalf of the Foundation reported on the Foundation.

Currently there are 4.6 million in assets, of which $1.6 million is the MMC. There are $3 million in liquid assets. Currently the

return on investments is around 7.5 percent.

The activities of the Foundation parallel the Strategic Plan. Bronson asked Steve the Foundation’s thoughts on the Mazamas holding reserves. The foundation’s position is that is the Mazamas call as to how much to hold for cash as well as liability issues.

As to bequests made to the Mazamas and not the Foundation, it is up to the Mazamas to decide what to do with the bequest. Sojo asked if there could be more or different ways that the Foundation communicates to Council and not just through the executive director and the Treasurer. The Foundation’s priority is ensuring transparency and a good relationship between the Mazamas and Foundation. The Foundation is open for council and others to come to Foundation meetings. Council thanked Steve for coming and found his information very helpful.

Beacon Rock Film Production Contract.

Adam Baylor updated Council on progress of the Beacon Rock Film Production and Contract. Lee Davis would like the contract with Maser Films and the Mazamas to state that there be fundraising for everything first and then money goes to Maser. Maser needs clarification on this which will happen when Lee is back. Kate Evans moves to release revenue derived from fundraising for the Beacon Rock Film.

Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved.

Reserve Account Implementation.

Jamie Anderson. Mazamas requests a motion on reserve account implementation in order to be able to formally implement the reserves structure with the bookkeeper and CPA. Mazamas currently holds $700,000 in unrestricted net assets and $100,000 in board designated ‘temporarily restricted’ funds. The Mazamas plans to set up the following framework for Mazamas Reserve Accounts: 1. A ‘Board Designated Operating Reserve’ to cover Capital Maintenance for our facilities, Rescue Insurance Payouts and Legal Expenses in the amount of 2 years possible expenses.

2. A ‘Board Designated Committee Reserve’ to ensure continued annual funding of our Expedition, Conservation, Research, Stewardship and Library/Historical Collections Program Activities (e.g. Grants) in the amount of 2 years possible expenses.

3. A ‘Board Designated Strategic Plan Reserve’ to support our five year strategic plan strategies and associated projects.

4. Fundraising Income, Net Operating Revenues and Foundation Grants will be used to fund and maintain the balances of these reserves.

Sojo Hendrix moves to implement Board Revenue structure as written. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved.

Meeting adjourned at 8:30 p.m.

Council went into Executive Session Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday, Aug.12, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

Membership Renewal All members will receive snail mail in early September that will contain the following: • • • • • •

Membership Renewal Form Council Candidate Information Election Ballot Secrecy Envelope Return Envelope Membership Sticker

The mailing is scheduled to go out on Sep. 8, 2014. If you do not receive it by Sep. 15, 2014, please contact the office at adventure@mazamas.org. If you have recently moved, please fill out the change of address form online prior to the end of August.

Executive Council Candidates 2014 Daniel Bailey Sunny Freeman Martin Hanson Steve Hooker John Rettig

You may also renew your membership early by going to tinyurl.com/mazmemrenewal. Any dues payments made after August 1 go toward the upcoming membership year.

August/2014—31

A kid trying to look tough. But until he gets his horns, he’s just too cute! Photo: Karl Helser.