Mazama Magazine February 2017

February 2017

Vol. 99 | No. 2

Bulletin

Winter Recreation

Getting Out of the Gorge Winter Mountaineering Dogs in the Backcountry Hut-to-Hut Skiing in Patagonia

Feature Articles Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK • Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@ mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month (Jan); starting in February 2017, Executive Council will meet at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of the month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

The Scheme to Sell Our Public Lands, p. 6 Winter Climbing, p. 9 Eight Legs of Ski Mountaineering, p. 10 11 Tips to Having Fun with Your Dog in the Snow, p. 12 Ski Mountaineering: Wapta Icefield, p. 16 Getting Out of the Gorge, p. 20 Winter Wonderland, p. 22 Discovery of the Serendipity Spires, p. 30 Hut-to-Hut Ski Touring in Patagonia's Backcountry, p. 32

Monthly Columns

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 4 Executive Director's Report, p. 5 Events & Activities, p. 8 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 24 Classic Mazamas, p. 24 Mazama Lodge, p. 25 Evening Travel Programs, p. 26 Outings, p. 28 Membership Report, p. 35 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 29 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 37 Bend Marathon & Half, p. 29 Centered in Motion, p. 37 Classifieds, p. 26 Climb Max Mountaineering, p.27 Embark Adventures, p. 23 GORGEous Runner, p. 29 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Indow Windows, p. 40 Mt. Adams Lodge, p. 14 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Hardwear, p. 19 Mountain Shop, p. 14 Next Adventure, p. 35 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 26 Peru Trekking, p. 26 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, p. 26 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 17

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: Happy climber Sándor Lau at Devil's Kitchen on the way to the summit of Mt. Hood, New Year's Eve Day, 2016. Photo: Mark Schroeder. Above: Climbers experience the joy of winter climbing on Mt. Hood. See related story on page 9. Photo: Rico Micallef FEBRUARY 2017 3

Volunteer Opportunities MAZAMA MOUNTAIN SCIENCE SCHOOL CHAPERONES FEBRUARY 22–24 & MARCH 6–8 Work with 5th grade students attending the Mazama Mountain Science School.

Assist students in understanding core concepts of the learning stations and preparing their final presentation. Some assistance needed to get kids ready to play in the snow, get organized for their day, and get ready for bed. Background check required. If you enjoy kids and snow, you will enjoy this opportunity! This is a 3-day, 2-night commitment and takes place at Mazama Lodge. Chaperones needed: Feb. 22–24 and/or March 6–8. Contact Ann Griffin, anngriffin@mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEER FOR THE THE GORGEOUS HOOD-TO-HOOD RELAY For each Mazama volunteer that is placed, the race will donate $100 to the Mazama Mountain Science School!

Volunteers are stationed either at an exchange to direct vans and runners, on course to direct runners, or at the start or finish for set-up, operations, and takedown. Most assignments require a lot of standing and smiling.

Sign up at tinyurl.com/maz-gorgeous, and once you sign up, the race coordinators will contact you with the volunteer release and more specifics about your assignment.

LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS ONGOING Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks.

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl.com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

4 MAZAMAS

Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests.

Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to sign up or learn more.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES

ONGOING The Mazama Families program offers regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor.

Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Jason Linse, families@mazamas.org.

RISK MANAGEMENT VOLUNTEERS ONGOING Risk Management Committee is involved with mitigating risk for Mazamas in their adventures. Among our responsibilities is to review Incident reports and complete safety reviews of Mazamas’ programs.

If you are interested in joining the Risk Management Committee contact Sandra Volk at riskmanagement@mazamas.org"

CLASSICS SECRETARY NEEDED The Classics Committee is looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. We need a secretary for meeting minutes, a co-chair to help with planning and communication, and more. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Meetings are the fourth Monday of the month at 11 a.m. at the MMC.

STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED! ONGOING Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! For more information, please contact Marketing & Communications Director Sarah Bradham, sarah@mazamas.org.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR

ONGOING The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers.

If you are interested in helping out, please contact ues@mazamas.org.

MANAGE TRAIL TRIPS SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE ONGOING Do you enjoy Mazama Trail Trips so much that you'd like to spread the word?

Trail Trips is seeking a friend of the committee to keep our Facebook presence fresh. We pledge to supply content to assist in this effort. Please contact Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org if you're willing to help.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE ONGOING We have a vacancy on the nominating committee to fulfill the remainder of a term. The nominating committee is primarily responsible for identifying candidates for Executive Council and running the annual election. Email nominating@mazamas.org if you are interested.

The Mazamas Joins the

OUTDOOR ALLIANCE

Dear Members: Some board, staff, and key committee On December 13, 2016 the Mazamas volunteers at the Mazamas wanted us to formally and unanimously decided to join first spend time getting to know Outdoor the Outdoor Alliance (OA), a coalition Alliance better, to informally collaborate of climbers, hikers, paddlers, mountain on projects, and to build a trusting and bikers, and backcountry skiers with a productive working relationship before believe that such alignment in coalition mission to unite the voices of outdoor joining. building is unique and should be enthusiasts to protect the human-powered As of today, we can say that the formalized in Oregon, and joining Outdoor outdoor recreation experience and Mazamas have been working informally conserve America’s public lands. Today, with the Outdoor Alliance for several years, Alliance is a solid step in that direction.

After three years of working productively I want to share with you the why behind and many of our committee members, and closely with Outdoor Alliance, I can this decision, and what it means for the board members, and staff have had the say confidently that their top priorities Mazamas to be a part of the Outdoor opportunity to interact with staff from OA, and values are in direct alignment with Alliance. to collaborate on initiatives, and to share ours at the Mazamas. OA is the primary As I have written about many times in expertise and resources. Since that time, this publication, I believe it is important the Mountaineers and the American Alpine leader of the fight to protect our public lands from transfer to the states (or worse, for outdoor recreation user groups (of Club have joined OA, and our relationship for private sale). And the Outdoor Alliance which we represent hikers, climbers, with all three of these organizations has is committed to transforming climbers, and backcountry skiers) to organize as strengthened immensely. hikers, paddlers, mountain bikers, and a community and to fight to preserve Outdoor Alliance has also been backcountry skiers into advocates for and protect our public lands. We also instrumental in helping us to build outdoor conservation and access—just like need to do everything we can to mitigate stronger relationships in D.C., with the Mazamas. climate change, and to lobby for full and members of Congress, federal land I’m proud every day to be working for sustainable funding for conservation and management agencies, and even the White the Mazamas and all of you, our members. our outdoor recreation infrastructure House. Working with OA has helped the And now, by joining the Outdoor Alliance (repairing the incredible backlog of Mazamas build working relationships we can all be proud and enthused that we maintenance on our trails, in huts, with private foundations and outdoor are a part of a larger alliance that not only campgrounds, bridges, trailheads, etc.) industry companies that are interested shares our values, but will fight to protect Because the majority of Mazama in supporting the Mazamas advocacy the outdoors, access for recreation, and programs occur on federal and public work around responsible recreation and conservation of our public lands. Please lands, if we want to make change happen conservation. email Adam Baylor (adam@mazamas.org) there we need to have an effective and Additionally, in recent years, we have or me (lee@mazamas.org) if you have any powerful voice locally, regionally, and worked closely with Outdoor Alliance questions about the Outdoor Alliance. also in Washington, D.C. The voice member organizations like the Winter of the Mazamas needs to be heard by Wildlands Alliance, the Access Fund, our lawmakers and agency officials in and American Whitewater on advocacy D.C. A national level, well-known, and projects and events right here in Oregon highly-respected coalition voice is what and Southwest Washington. the Outdoor Alliance will provide the Our work together has created a Lee Davis Mazamas in the years ahead. unified voice for outdoor recreationalists Mazamas Executive Director The Outdoor Alliance is a 501(c)3 and conservationists in our region and tax-exempt nonprofit organization that has helped to move policy forward. We includes membership organizations, including: American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Decision Making within Outdoor Alliance Fund, International Mountain Bicycling How does OUTDOOR ALLIANCE make policy decisions? Outdoor Alliance makes policy Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, decisions and recommends advocacy actions by utilizing a structure called the Joint Policy the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Shop. This is a consensus based group of policy directors from each member organization. One Club, and now, the Mazamas.

We were initially invited in 2014 to join Outdoor Alliance but did not respond to the invitation at that time.

of the benefits of joining Outdoor Alliance for the Mazamas will be inclusion of our voice and our priorities in the Outdoor Alliance Joint Policy Shop. So, not only will we benefit from having a better knowledge of what is happening nationally, Outdoor Alliance will be better able to help us with our advocacy priorities going forward.

FEBRUARY 2017 5

The Scheme to Sell Our Public Lands

by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager

T

he scheme to sell off our public lands to the highest bidder is nothing new and the 115th Congress is about to push this devious plot to the next level. To help shed some light on this conspiracy, the following steps reveal how far along we are in a public lands heist.

STEP 1—BUDGET CUTS

Ever since the 1980s, elected officials have gradually destroyed our land management agencies’ budgets under the guise of wanting government to “do more with less.” As a result, nearly each unit of the U.S. Forest Service is underfunded and understaffed.

Mt. Hood National Forest (NF) requires about 800 employees to properly manage the forest. Currently, Mt. Hood NF is operating on approximately 200 employees making it difficult to consistently manage all the demands on our natural resources.

In addition to dwindling agency budgets is the problem of wildfire funding. As fires in the West increase in size and duration, USFS and BLM budgets suffer the burden of wildfire fighting. That means federally managed recreation programs are slashed to cover costs and citizen complaints skyrocket.

Summer 2006 [Milepost]: Outdoor Alliance (OA) Launched. The Access Fund (AF), American Whitewater (AW), American Canoe Association (ACA), American Hiking Society (AHS), International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA), and Winter Wildlands Alliance (WWA) join forces to establish the Outdoor Alliance.

Late 2006 [Milepost]: OA hires Adam Cramer to lead the organization.

6 MAZAMAS

This systematic decline in agency budgets coupled with wildfire funding problems leaves public lands in a precarious position.

Multiuse demands do not go away just because Congress has failed to properly fund our land management agencies. At the end of the day, Congress created this problem so that one solution works: a public lands heist.

STEP 2—CHANGE THE RULES OF FEDERAL LAND TRANSFERS Wasting no time, the new House of Representatives voted to change the rules on how costs are calculated during federal land transfers to a state. The new rule says that there is no cost associated with the land transfer. By setting the value of our public lands to zero, Congress will have no obstacle in handing over control of millions of acres to state governments. Once this happens states would be responsible to manage the land or sell it.

2011 [Action]: Outdoor Alliance Partnership Summit in Golden, Colo. brings together 125 recreation, industry, and agency representatives to talk about public-private partnerships on public lands.

Early 2012 [MIlepost]: OA Invited to White House conference on America’s Great Outdoors.

2011 [Win]: Strengthened the Colorado Roadless Rule: Roadless Areas & MTB— Increasing protected acreage in Colorado.

STEP 3—CUT ALL FEDERAL SPENDING During the next few years, Congress may decide to make broad cuts in all federal programs which will create a burden on state budgets. For example, healthcare or housing programs that receive federal funding may vanish. In doing so, states will need to pick up the slack in order to continue to provide services to citizens. Suddenly, the prospect of selling off newly transferred federal lands becomes a very appealing cash cow for states to balance their budgets

STEP 4—MAKE NEW LAWS TO TRANSFER (CEDE) FEDERAL LAND TO STATES The reality is that the new Congress is pretty much like the old Congress. Last year, Republicans in the House and Senate voted unanimously in committee to begin the transfer of federal lands to states. We have also seen an increase in state legislatures

Spring 2014 [Action]: OA Invites the Mountaineers and the Mazamas to join.

Early 2014 [MIlepost]: OA formalizes and becomes a 501(c)3 Nonprofit

2014 [Action]: Recreation resources database launched— Developing public policy to enhance outdoor recreation.

Late 2014 [Action]: OA Advocacy Summit in Washington DC

WHAT BENEFITS DOES THE MAZAMAS GET OUT OF JOINING OUTDOOR ALLIANCE?

or general assemblies attempting to pass legislation to accept federal land transfers.

As they say in real estate, you must have a willing seller and a buyer. The good news is that the House of Representatives may pass a land transfer law but it most likely will be blocked in the Senate by a filibuster.

STEP 5—STATES SELL LAND TO PRIVATE COMPANIES Some people think this step will not happen or that it’s at least 50 years down the road. Whatever the time frame, this is a very real possibility now. It’s important to remember that privatization is not necessarily the worry. Our government delivers goods and services to the people through private companies all the time.

Contracting is part of privatization and while there is fraud, waste and abuse associated with this process, it’s been happening since the founding of the United States. Rather, the true worry is that federal lands could be sold into private ownership. Once that occurs, private landowners will have the right to put up No Trespassing signs as they see fit.

That means we could lose a great deal of public access to our favorite places.

Early 2015 [Threat]: American Lands Council launches their Land Transfer Movement to sell off public lands for private ownership.

Summer 2015 [MIlepost]: American Alpine Club Joins OA

Spring 2015 [MIlepost]: The Mountaineers Join OA

STEP 6—DEVELOP RESORTS IN WILDERNESS AREAS, FRACK AND POLLUTE, CLEAR CUT OUR FORESTS These are but a few of the consequences to selling off public lands. We know that the scheme is real and no longer in the dark. It’s out in the open and Mazamas can help stop it.

CALL TO ACTION—GET OUTDOORS AND TAKE ALL YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY The key to our success will be through recreation and political action. In addition to telling your Member of Congress or State Legislator to oppose the Public Lands Heist, make a commitment to get outside more and share that experience with everyone you know.

We have joined the Outdoor Alliance to collectively fight this battle with other human-powered recreation groups. It will be up to us to rally the support of the mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, backpacking and hiking communities throughout Oregon and parts of Washington to stop the public lands heist.

Early 2016 [Action]: Innovating Legislation— consulted on the Sen. Wyden's Recreation-Not-Red-Tape Act to protect important outdoor hot-spots, including a new organic National Recreation Area designation.

Late 2015 [MIlepost]: OA launches Protect our Public Lands initiative: State legislation threatens to sell off public land in the west. Outdoor Alliance rallies climbers, backcountry skiers, and mountain bikers to fight these bills.

• Joining Outdoor Alliance positions us in a leadership role in the Pacific Northwest.

Being positioned and celebrated nationally as the headquarters organization for Outdoor Alliance in Oregon and SW Washington, the Mazamas will become the ‘hub’ where responsible outdoor recreation groups come together to discuss issues and policy.

• Access to policy makers and high-level conservation partners in Washington and in our region, including support from lobbyists.

Regular communication with the policy directors and communications staff of nearly every major recreation group in the US. Strengthening our standing as a community resource and subject matter experts with local and regional recreation user groups.

• Efficient coalition support and actions for high level issues that all recreation groups care about. For example, protecting public lands, fighting against climate change, preserving funding like the Land and Water Conservation, and working with land management agencies (NPS, USFS, BLM, USACE) on national and regional planning efforts.

• The opportunity to leverage and utilize Outdoor Alliance (and Outdoor Alliance Member organizations) resources on policy or grassroots organizing work. And the opportunity for the research we do here in the Northwest to benefit other recreation and conservation groups nationally.

• Being quickly informed as to what happens in the federal government and impacts of Congressional actions on conservation or recreation issues.

Summer 2016 [Win]: LWCF— Bringing the Land and Water Conservation Fund back from the brink.

Spring 2016 [Action]: Capitol Summit brings over 200 leaders from the Outdoor Industry, Conservation Alliance, and OA to DC.

December 2016 [Win]: Rec Act passes Congress after strong support from OA, OIA, and the Conservation Alliance to measure the size of the Outdoor Recreation Economy.

November 2016 [Win]: $1 million secured for outdoor recreation in Utah.

Dec. 2016 [Milepost]: The Mazamas Joins OA

FEBRUARY 2017 7

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES MAZAMA & COMMUNITY OPPORTUNITIES AND EVENTS BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM INFO NIGHT

Interested in learning more about the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP)? Come to Info Night to get all the details from the people who organize and teach the program as well as hear from past students. This class is extremely popular, so we recommend showing up a little early (around 6 ish) to get a seat. Please utilize mass transit, bikes, or ride share if possible. ▶▶ Date: Feb. 2 ▶▶ Time: 6:30–8 p.m.

OPEN CLIMB DAYS

Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied and all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall. ▶▶ Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique. ▶▶ Dates: Feb. 12, March 5 ▶▶ Hours: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $10 (cash only) Funds to go to climbing wall costs, holds and foam

BASIC ROCK SKILLS

Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top-rope anchor. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. ▶▶ Upcoming Dates: Feb. 17, March 20, April 21, May 10 & June 14. ▶▶ Location: MMC ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ For more information and to register go to: tinyurl.com/maz-basicrock

8 MAZAMAS

SNOW CAMPING SKILL BUILDER

If you’ve been exploring the Pacific Northwest without camping on snow, you’re missing out. Whether a multi-day climb on a glaciated peak in July or a back country ski trip in January, camping in and on snow opens up a world of new experiences. With a straightforward, simple format (one lecture, one weekend field session) you'll learn the fundamental skills of snow camping. ▶▶ Lecture: Feb. 15, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC ▶▶ Field Session: Feb 18 & 19 near Timberline Lodge ▶▶ Tuition: $55 members/$80 nonmembers ▶▶ For more information and to register go to: tinyurl.com/mazsnowcamp

CREVASSE RESCUE SKILL BUILDER

Crevasse Rescue is a skill no one ever wants to use, but one everyone should have in their toolkit. This course consists of a lecture and a field session on Mt. Hood. Demonstrations of crevasse terrain, proper ways to rope up for glacier travel, crevasse avoidance, group rescue techniques, 2:1 and 3:1 mechanical advantage hoisting systems are all taught in the course. All lectures are at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and field sessions are at Mt. Hood. ▶▶ Spring Session 1 ▷▷ Lecture: Mon., March 27 ▷▷ Field Session: Sat. April 1 ▶▶ Spring Session 2 ▷▷ Lecture: Mon., April 24 ▷▷ Field Session: Sat., April 29 ▶▶ Summer Session *tentative, if adequate snow conditions exist* ▷▷ Lecture: Tues., May 30, 7 p.m. ▷▷ Field Session: Sat., June 3, ▶▶ Cost: $55 members, $80 non-members For more information go to: tinyurl.com/MAZcrevasserescue

BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST

Feb 3, 4 at the Kiggins Theatre (Vancouver, WA) Feb 6, 7, 8 at Cinema 21

Feb 9, 10, 11 at Revolution Hall There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. TICKETS GO FAST! The tour has sold out in one week the past three years.

So don't wait, grab your tickets today! ▶▶ Cinema 21 tickets: awloutdoors.org/banffpdxc21 ▶▶ Revolution Hall tickets: awloutdoors.org/banffpdxrevhall ▶▶ Kiggins tickets: brownpapertickets. com/event/2582594

TELLURIDE MOUNTAIN FILM FEST

March 9 at Revolution Hall On March 9 at the Revolution Hall, Portland Mountain Rescue will host the Telluride Mountain Film Festival screening independent documentary films from around the world focused on outdoor adventure and culture. This will be a night of truly inspirational movies about the outdoors while supporting a great organization—Portland Mountain Rescue.

Expect a huge equipment raffle as well!

USED EQUIPMENT SALE

The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can clear out their unused gear and make some cash, and buyers can snap up field-tested equipment at great prices! ▶▶ Date/Time: Gear drop off, Thursday, March 23, 11 am-7 pm; Sale, Friday, March 24, 5 pm-8 pm (Mazama members and students in climbing classes get early entry into the sale) ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center (527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR)

Winter Climbing

Sunrise from Summit of Mt. Hood, February 2016. Photo: Rico Micallef

by Rico Micallef

W

hy climb in the winter? To borrow a phrase from Mallory, because it’s there! Or better yet, because you can! I like to climb period, so why stop in the winter?

You do not have to. In addition, some routes are only climbable in the winter.

Another benefit of winter climbing is that you keep your skill and fitness level up, so you are already in shape for climbing when spring rolls around. Indulge me and let’s talk about the benefits and issues with winter climbing.

The biggest issue with winter climbing is access. Do you ever wonder why the winter climb schedule is basically Mt. Hood and Mount St. Helens? Why are South Sister, Mt. Adams, Middle Sister, etc. not on the schedule? Simply, because of access. These would all be great winter climbs, but the roads to the trailheads are typically closed in the winter, so they all require a long hike/ snowshoe/ski in, making what is a relatively straightforward and easy climb into a multi-day event. When you combine access with the other major obstacle to winter climbing–the weather window–-you can easily understand why the winter climb schedule is limited to just a few peaks.

Weather in the winter is much more variable, so looking for one nice day is tough enough, much less three good days in a row. Fortunately, we have Mt. Hood in our back yard; close with easy access, which allows us to jump on a climb with little notice–-all we need is good weather!

Another advantage of winter climbs is that it is cold. Do you ever wonder why we start at midnight for a May climb on Hood? We need to be below the Hogsback before it starts warming up and ice and rock start falling on us.

On a cold winter day with little wind, falling rock is not an issue. So sleep

in. We can start at 6 a.m. and will actually get to see where we are going!

Another benefit of winter climbs is some of the hazards in spring are greatly reduced or non-existent.

Crevasses by and large are covered up by deep snow and may pose no risk.

The bergschrund on Mt. Hood, which can be a major obstacle on routes like the Pearly Gates, is nonexistent in January–-you can walk right over it. If we have a good snow year, many of the steeper, more technical routes also can be much easier. Winter climbing also means less people. It is not uncommon to be the only people on Mt. Hood on a winter climb, which is pretty unlikely on a May climb.

As they say in economics, there is no free ride. So on the flip side, there are some issues with winter climbing that you need to deal with. The obvious one is the temperature, as it tends to be colder. With that said, I have had winter climbs where I was in a t-shirt on the descent because it was so warm, and likewise I have had spring climbs where we were chilled to the bone. So not all winter climbs are necessarily cold. Nevertheless, we need to be prepared for harsher weather, which means carrying more clothes, maybe a bivy sack, etc. In addition, this means that you need to be in better shape for a winter climb

than for a summer climb.

Climbers must also be more aware of avalanche conditions in the winter.

Mazama guidelines require that each climber carry an avy beacon, plus an avy probe and a shovel for every two climbers. Fortunately, the Mazamas provide all of this gear. Avalanche issues require we be even more aware of the weather in the days prior to our climb. Today might be a nice, sunny day, but if we just came off a nice dump of snow, we are probably not going to be climbing due to avy issues.

Finally, the weather is much more variable in the winter than in the summer or spring, so the key to successful winter climbs is flexibility and speed! You wait for the weather window and when it arrives, you jump on it. The weather window may also be shorter, so speed is critical to success. Remember, the mountain decides when you climb, not you!

Personally, I love winter climbs. It allows me to climb year round and keeps me in shape. I hope I have sparked your interest. If so, check out the Mazama climb schedule. I hope to see you on the summit of Mt. Hood or Mt. St. Helens this winter!

Climb ON!

FEBRUARY 2017 9

Dogs in the Backcountry Last March the Mazama Bulletin launched an occasional series about recreating with dogs in the backcountry. We asked for your stories, photos, experiences, wit, and wisdom. And boy, did you respond! Please keep it coming. Send your submissions and feedback to publications@mazamas. org.

This month, we hear from Mazama member David Alt, whose dog, Niko, helps keep teen son, Caden, interested in the hard work of skinning up a mountain. ~Kristie Perry

10 MAZAMAS

EIGHT LEGS OF SKI MOUNTAINEERING

by David Alt

I

have fond memories of growing up with small Poodles and large Great Danes, but when it came time a few years ago to find a dog for my 12-year-old son, Caden, I wanted something different. And I had a few stipulations:

I wasn’t going to get a full size pickup to haul around a dog. We needed to find one that could fit in the back of my current car.

So we searched for a 30-pound “Prius-Perfect Pet.” As a child, I had always felt bad seeing my Great Dane shiver in the cold. So the next dog had to have a built-in, snow-ready coat for winter outings.

Must have a good “paw-toweight” ratio for efficient snow travel.

Must be exceptional with kids and easy to have around.

We got all this and more when Niko entered our lives almost three years ago.

Some say he is a Japanese Shiba Inu, others think he is a Korean Jindo. We call him the "half-sized husky,” the "snow fox,” or, more often, “the permanent puppy.” We don’t really know what breed he is or even how old he is. When we brought him to see our veterinarian for the first time, the vet wagered Niko was about five years old based on the looks of his teeth.

NIKO CAME TO US VIA CRAIGSLIST after first having been rescued from living the life of a stray by a local animal shelter. Niko then spent about four months with a foster family before I brought him home for a trial play date with Caden. Caden’s excitement upon meeting Niko was palpable.

“I love him dad! He’s the one!”

Niko LOVES the backcountry. He is often head-down in a tree well sniffing out Pine Martens or who knows what. When the snow gets too deep and he gets tired of hopping like a bunny through the powder, he gets smart and follows in our packed-down skin track.

At times he’s a little too smart for our good, which he demonstrates by hitching a ride on the backs of our skis. We simply smile and enjoy the workout from the added 30-pound leg weights.

As a child, I had always felt bad seeing my Great Dane shiver in the cold. So the next dog had to have a built-in, snow-ready coat for winter outings.

Must have a good “pawto-weight” ratio for efficient snow travel.

Must be exceptional with kids and easy to have around.

We got all this and more when Niko entered our lives

Photo Credits: David Alt

almost three years ago.

I’ll admit that I had a plan for Niko. As I was getting more involved in backcountry skiing with the Mazamas, I really wanted to entice my son into willingly joining me on these outings. As a “tween,” Caden tended to get a little bored with all that work going up hill. But watching a dog frolic in the snow will put a smile on anyone’s face, and it worked beautifully with Caden.

Truthfully, there is extra work involved with taking Niko into the backcountry.

Niko likes to lighten his load early on when he knows he’s going to cover some miles.

So I sometimes must bag up four to six of his bathroom breaks in the first half hour of an outing. (I am often tempted to have him pack out his own excrement.) I also want to be courteous of others and the wilderness that we enjoy, so he is

harnessed and leashed with a carabiner to Caden or me to keep him close.

Unfortunately, we cannot take him to the wilderness areas of Mount St. Helens and Mt. Rainier. I understand and respect those regulations. We have plenty of great places to explore with him on Mt. Hood.

Niko loves local backcountry destinations such as Newton Creek, Mitchell Creek, White River, and Palmer.

Clearly, his coat keeps him warm enough in the cold weather, as he will, without hesitation, sit in the icy water at White River (crazy dog). When the temperature above the Palmer drops and the wind blows hard, Niko simply squints his eyes and looks to us for direction, always up for wherever we want to go.

Beyond the outdoor adventures of

backcountry skiing, snow camping, hiking, and biking, Niko is truly our best friend.

He knows when Caden or I are having a bad day and will give us a “don’t sweat the small stuff, let’s go play” look. So we let him out, only to have him turn right back around and stare at us through the window with his “aren’t you coming, too?” look.

Yes, I guess we could use a break, Niko.

We’re coming. We’re coming. Thanks for filling our days with your joyful optimism, Niko.

I hope that everyone gets the chance to experience the fun to be had with a dog on an outdoor adventure. Please be sure to follow and respect the pet policies of the areas that you explore so we can all continue to enjoy the privilege of being accompanied by “man’s best friend.”

FEBRUARY 2017 11

11 Tips

for Having Fun with Your Dog in the Snow

by Kristie Perry Adapted with permission from www. allgoodsk9adventures.com (February 15, 2015)

1. PROTECT THEIR PAWS “Protecting your dog’s paw pads is crucial to having a good day in the snow,” says Whitney “Allgood” LaRuffa, who has logged more than 7,000 miles in the backcountry with numerous four-legged companions.

Cracked or otherwise injured pads will end your outing early.

Long-haired dogs or those with webbed paws are especially prone to collecting snow between their toes. Body heat transforms that snow into little ice balls that grow larger over time and stretch the dog’s toes apart.

This leads to cracking, bleeding, and hairpulling. Dogs will respond to the pain by licking, which will cause even more ice build up. To prevent this, try Vaseline, Bag Balm, or Musher’s Secret.

Sometimes dogs need more protection than a topical application can provide, however, as Mazama member Pam Monheimer learned on an outing last year with her Vizsla, Tüz. Historically, Musher’s Secret and a fleece jacket were all Tüz needed to stay comfortable when romping through the snow. But last year, while snowshoeing around Trillium Lake on a day when the mercury barely made it into double-digits, “Tüz just tried to lay down on my feet,” she recounts. “He refused to get up. Trying to carry a 60-pound dog up a hill while in snowshoes wasn’t fun. That’s when I realized I needed to be more careful about winter conditions.” So Monheimer invested in a pair of Vibram-soled Ruffwear booties.

Dog bootie technology and availability has come a long way over the past 20 years.

Dog booties come in a variety of materials, including latex, fleece, cordura nylon, neoprene, and rubber. They also come 12 MAZAMAS

Lily wearing her backpack on Wildcat Mountain Photo Credit: Matt Carter

in various lengths, so if you want built-in gaiters (also known as high tops) for your dog, you’ll find them. Old dress or liner socks, worn under the booties, can also work as gaiters.

If possible, take your dog with you when buying his booties so he can try them on in the store. Just like a Salomon Women’s 8 isn’t a Lowa Women’s 8 isn’t an Asolo Women’s 8, makers of dog booties show quite a bit of variation (or perhaps imprecision) in their sizing charts.

Various dogs will tolerate booties to varying degrees. Practice putting the booties on your dog at home first. (And if you haven’t already seen the videos of dogs in booties high-stepping, prepare to laugh yourself silly.) You’ll want to make sure you can get the boots on and off easily and that your dog can’t.

One drawback of using booties on your dog in the snow: you’re taking away his built-in crampons by covering his toenails.

If you’re going to be traveling in steep, hard snow try to make one of the topical applications work so your dog will have traction.

2. KEEP THEM WARM Just like humans, dogs will remain warm in winter conditions while they’re on the move.

But also like humans, dogs will feel chilled during breaks. If you have a short-haired dog or one that is cold weather-sensitive, get it a coat.

“The old line of ‘why does a dog need a coat, they have fur?’ might be true if you have a husky that lives in Alaska,” LaRuffa points

Tüz models his fleece coat and snow boots.

Photo Credit: Pam Monheimer

out. “But I have a lab mix who spends most of his days in a nice warm house sleeping on the couch. So, yes, he gets cold in the winter.” While he is on the move, LaRuffa’s lab mix, Karluk, wears a winter jacket made specifically for dogs. During breaks and at night, LaRuffa wraps him in a human’s puffy.

While Monheimer happily dresses Tüz in a waterproof fleece jacket, Mazama member Matt Carter takes a different approach with his Golden Retriever, Lily: “My rule for Lily is that if it is so cold that her double coat is not adequate, it is too cold for me to be out hiking around.”

Even long-haired dogs are susceptible to hypothermia and frostbite. The ears, pads, and tail tips are the body parts most prone to frostbite, according to the veterinarians at VCA Animal Hospitals. If your dog starts shivering, it’s time to go home. Shivering is a signal that hypothermia may be close behind.

3. DRINK PLENTY OF FLUIDS Nothing dehydrates you more than a long day in cold air. “With each breath, you expel precious moisture,” notes LaRuffa. “Pair that with elevation and high levels of activity and you are setting you and your pup up for dehydration.”

LaRuffa recommends bringing at least one quart of water for each of you for every five miles traveled.

Although many dogs can drink with impunity right out of most bodies of water encountered on the trail, many streams ice over or are under snow in the winter.

“I think of winter like late summer when considering how much water to take for Lily,” Carter says.

In the winter, carry water for you and your dog inside your pack to prevent freezing.

If you must carry bottles on the outside of your pack, make sure you use wide-mouth bottles and turn them upside down so that any ice that forms will float up instead of freezing the cap shut. If you prefer water bladders over bottles, use an insulation sleeve on the hose.

4. EAT! Like you, your dog will burn more calories in cold weather. If you plan on snacking in the middle of your snowshoe, bring dogfriendly snacks for your pup, too. High-fat foods like peanut butter and cheese burn slowly for sustained heat and energy. Your dog’s regular dry kibble works well, too, and won’t make a mess in your pack.

“Because Lily won’t eat her breakfast if I am preparing to take her out, I end up packing it,” Carter says. He also brings treats for Lily, an endeavor that over the years morphed into an escalating competition with a hiking buddy. “One cold February day he pulled out an insulated bag with sliced pork roast kept warm with a gel pack. I conceded defeat.”

Multi-day trips call for a bit more thought.

Kristin Hostetter, an editor at Backpacker Magazine, recommends a mix of 75 percent regular kibble with 25 percent puppy food.

“Puppy food has added calories and protein, which will help boost your dog’s nutritional intake during big mile days,” she says.

LaRuffa swears by TurboPUP bars when he needs to watch the weight in his pack.

TurboPUP is the brainchild of Kristina Guerrero, a backcountry skier who wanted to make sure the four-legged companion who accompanied her on her adventures had the nutrition he needed to keep his energy up.

Locally, TurboPUP can be found at Next Adventure, U.S. Outdoor Store, and various Petsmarts.

5. KEEP YOUR DOG UNDER CONTROL What’s true in town is true in the backcountry, also: a well-trained dog that obeys commands is more enjoyable to be around—for everyone.

“Some dogs are simply aggressive by nature,” says retired veterinarian and Mazama member Don McCoy. “If your dog can’t be a good citizen, then it needs to stay home.”

Canine obedience training becomes even more important when freezing temperatures and snow are part of the adventure. More dogs are lost in winter than in any other season, according to the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

Be mindful of your terrain. You don’t want your dog running into a partially frozen body of water. Nor do you want them to engage wildlife.

Lily waiting at trail crossing.

Carter and Lily once encountered a Photo Credit: Matt Carter coyote while hiking in the Deschutes National Forest between Christmas and New Year’s. “The coyote kept trying to when ascending. “When we switch to engage Lily,” he recalls. “’Come play with me,’ downhill mode, I ski as fast as possible, was the message she was getting. Just out keeping well in front of Karluk the whole of sight was the pack of coyote friends who time. I stop every few hundred yards so he had dinner plans for her, instead.” can catch up, therefore preventing the risk If your dog is the type who would engage of a cut from my ski edge.” with a coyote, it should be on a leash, ▶▶ Snowshoeing: Train your dog to walk veterinarian McCoy says. directly behind you when snowshoeing.

Another reason to keep your dog close is That way, your dog can use your tracks traps. Trapping is allowed all year in Oregon (and not, say, the Nordic skiers’ tracks), and Washington. “The further away from and she avoids being stepped on or caught you your dog is, the more likely it is to get in a crampon. Don’t be surprised if you caught,” Carter says. “The ‘improved’ leg feel some extra weight in your shoes at hold and Conibear traps being marketed as the end of the day. Smart, tired dogs have ‘humane’ are more destructive than the old been known to hitch a ride on the back of ones,” he opines. “More importantly, I think snowshoes to avoid having to slog through the new traps are much harder to release by deep snow. hand. I carry Vise Grips to help.” ▶▶ Mountaineering: This activity poses many Finally, make sure your dog shows the risks, but the biggest one is impaling your same respect for steep snow that you do. dog with your crampon, “so being aware at “When you are traversing a trail that is all times where your foot placement is in benched out on a steep slope, you are relation to you dog is paramount,” LaRuffa entering a danger zone,” LaRuffa warns. says.

“Allowing your dog to run loose above you or below heightens the risk of triggering an 7. BRING A PAD A lightweight foam pad can be deployed avalanche.” on the snow during the day for you and your 6. WATCH OUT FOR SHARPS dog to rest on during a break, and then used Ski edges, crampons, ice axes, and at night in camp. Bonus: it’s warmer than an snowshoes are all potential hazards for your air mattress in the snow, and safer, “since it dog. So how do you prevent a bad accident? can’t pop and leave you shivering on the snow,” ▶▶ Skiing: LaRuffa keeps his dog, Karluk, LaRuffa says. either directly ahead or behind him continued on next page FEBRUARY 2017 13

11 Tips, continued from previous page 8. LINE YOUR DOG’S PACK Even in the snow, the gear in your dog’s pack can get wet.

LaRuffa swears by turkey oven roasting bags because they are light, cheap, and strong.

9. BRING A RUBBER TOY Bring a toy to play with in camp. LaRuffa’s dog, Karluk, recommends orange rubber balls. They are bright and, therefore, easier to find in the snow. Plus, their rubber surface doesn’t soak up slobber and snowmelt.

10. PAY ATTENTION “What seems to work best for Tüz, who has unlimited energy, is to go with his flow,” Monheimer says. “We go as long as he seems fine, and at the first sign of discomfort we turn back. This has put a damper on my ability to summit or reach a particular destination. But Tüz is my best buddy. My number one goal is for him to have a good and safe time.”

11. HAVE FUN! No explanation needed.

14 MAZAMAS

Mt. Adams Lodge at the

Flying L Ranch 4 cabins 12 rooms and a historic lodge on 80 beautiful acres! www.mt-adams.com

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM 2017 is Almost Here!

by Patrice Cook, BCEP 2017 Coordinator

I

was lost on Table Mountain. I was 8 miles from the trailhead at the PCT. I was alone and had never done this hike. In fact, I was new to hiking and had done less than 4 gorge trails. The only people I had seen that day were on horseback, and that had been more than an hour ago. As I was in a scree field unable to find the trail, I knew they would not be coming this way. I had no compass, no map, no directions other than one page from a book, no extra water, food, or clothes. I think I actually dressed in cotton. This was my wake-up call. I did finally find my way to the summit. There I met a group of seven. They helped me find my way down and even drove me back to my car after a dip. It was a recently graduated group of Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) students and an assistant. They told me of the Mazamas and this class I could take to become a better hiker; even meet some folks to go with.

That was my start. BCEP and this organization, this family I call the Mazamas, has changed my life.

BCEP applicants learn about our course through YOU. Through your excitement and love for the outdoors and through your stories of how it made a difference in your life. BCEP continues to be an amazing experience. We need your support. We need you to talk about BCEP with your friends, family, colleagues, co-workers and connections. Help us build our community and increase our membership with individuals who love the outdoors as much as we do.

We will have 20+ BCEP teams looking for roughly 250 people to share our knowledge of hiking, climbing, and the great outdoors.

Mark your calendars, for this year’s adventure.

Information Night is Feb 2 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Classes run March 5 through April 25 at our new home at the OHSU Life Sciences Building (more to come on this). Help us make 2017 a great year full of worthy stories.

FEBRUARY 2017 15

SKI MOUNTAINEERING TRAVERSE OF CANADIAN ROCKIES’ WAPTA ICEFIELD Photos by Keith Daellenbach

TRIP DETAILS: ▶▶ Day 1: Bow Summit (6,381 ft.) to Peyto Hut (8,218 ft.), 6.6 miles, 6 hours, 2,509 ft. gain, 672 ft. loss

by Keith Daellenbach

I

n the February 2016, I found myself drawing short straw as the company I had worked at for nearly eight years continued on a path of downsizing and contraction and I was let go. Leaving an employer not on one’s own terms is not ideal but, as it was, it was a relief to move on and pursue new paths in my engineering career. While balancing my obligation to look for employment, my wife, Amy, encouraged me to not miss this opportunity to “get out there” and find ways to reconnect with friends in the outdoors where I’ve always found peace and a connection to a Creation much bigger than myself.

My first foray was to the southern Oregon coast exploring the Coquille River and floating the wild and beautiful Sixes River.

The winter steelhead run was at its peak and I met up with local Jim Clausen who over decades, and this is no put down – rather the opposite, has developed the brain of a steelhead. With Jim’s “happy meal” creation, I hooked, fought, and released a native buck steelhead in the pre-dawn light on a quiet stretch of solitude on the Coquille. I put other steelhead on the bank and if anything could clear my head and make me happy to be alive, that was it. Ski mountaineering would fit the bill too.

During this interregnum, my other main foray afield was with Chris Haagen, of Oakland, one of my favorite climbing and backcountry friends. Chris, a fellow engineer, is always a cheerful guy ready for an adventure, remarkably available on short notice. Without much discussion, we quickly settled upon a ski mountaineering traverse of the Wapta Icefield in the Canadian Rockies north of Lake Louise.

16 MAZAMAS

▶▶ Day 2: Peyto Hut (8,218 ft.) to Bow Hut (7,904 ft.), also climb Mount Olive – North and Mount Gordon, 10.2 miles, 8 hours and 6 minutes ▶▶ Day 3: Bow Hut (7,904 ft.) to Balfour Hut (7,880 ft.): 4.8 miles, 3:40 hours, 1,616 ft. gain, 1,640 ft. loss ▶▶ Day 4: Balfour Hut (7,880 ft.) to Scott Duncan Hut (8,833 ft.): 6.3 miles, 6:20 hours, 1,908’ gain, 955 ft. loss (includes exploration of lower southeast ridge of Mt. Balfour) ▶▶ Day 5: Scott Duncan Hutt (8,833 ft.) to Highway 1 (5,237 ft.): 8.4 miles, 4 hours and 10 minutes, 3,596 ft. loss ▶▶ Ascents: Mount Olive—North (Northwest Ridge, Grade II, 10,187 ft.); Mount Gordon (North Ridge, Grade I, 10,388 ft.)

Keith will be giving an evening program slide show on this ski mountaineering traverse at the MMC on Feb. 22 at 7 p.m.

Through a division of labor – Chris took on establishing GPS way-points for the route and I reserved hostel lodging in Lake Louise, Alpine Club of Canada (AAC) huts along the route, and van shuttle – we made quick work of the logistics. Two weeks later, Chris flew into PDX and we were underway driving north with nighttime departure. In a one 13-hour, 710-mile shot, we drove up through eastern Washington,

crossing the border at Eastport, and made our way to our night’s lodging at Lake Louise. The hostel there is inexpensive and comfortable with skiers from all over North America. We sorted gear and settled in for the night.

After a hearty breakfast at the hostel the next morning, we made our last avalanche check (www.avalanche.ca), which indicated “High” danger so we carefully examined

worked up Peyto Creek, at one time jumping rock-to-rock across its low flow, and avoiding a steepwalled, skier’s-left gully, gained an old medial moraine on the right.

Eventually, we topped over the moraine and skied above a small glaciology/meteorology field station and gained the northern lobe of the Peyto Glacier. We gave wide berth to the steep east flank of Peyto Peak upon which were small avalanches being triggered in the mid-day sun.

We gained 2,200 feet from the Lake.

Skiing up the Peyto Glacier was a dream of great snow and towering peaks all around. We reached the blue Peyto Hut (a.k.a., Peter and Catharine Whyte Hut) perched on a lower satellite ridge. We were greeted at the hut by a contingent of guided skiers including many from Portland. The hut sleeps 16 in winter, and like the other three huts on our traverse, are fully stocked with propane, stoves, pots, pans, cooking utensils, sleeping pads, and an outhouse. I knew some of the

our route for likely steep, avalanche-prone slopes that would receive direct sun. There was no fresh snow to contend with. After this analysis, we convinced ourselves we could make the tour in relative safety with bail options from the Peyto and Bow huts.

We drove 10 miles to the Great Divide Lodge just east of Kicking Horse Pass on the Trans Canada Highway 1 where we met Jean, our shuttle van driver with Mountain Park Transportation. I left my Honda Civic there and she drove us up Highway 93, 45-minutes away to just north of Bow Summit. We departed in the blazing sunshine, saying “thank you” to Jean, and skied (well I hiked and skied) down a steep, switchback trail about 350 feet through the trees to the edge of Peyto Lake. When Amy and I explored the Canadian Rockies las summer with our son, Micah, we stopped at Bow Summit and gazed at this aquamarine lake from above; now we were skiing across its frozen surface in the frigid air. Having brought many layers suitable for ski mountaineering in the Cascades, I was somewhat concerned that my 32-pound pack would not contain the heavy duty warm weather clothing needed for the cold continental climate in the Rockies. In spite of this, the gear I brought was plenty adequate.

Chris and I skied across the frozen lake towards the far side, where the wall of the Canadian Rockies rose up. We

skiers and Chris and I talked to the guide long into the night by lantern light about other more remote ski mountaineering adventures in the Rockies we could pursue after this introductory traverse.

Day two of our ski traverse was a short 3.7-mile section that gains 770 feet and loses 1,100 feet. As the weather was perfect and the ski leg short, we added to that distance by climbing two Mt. Olive—North, roping up for a short section low on the ridge in an abundance of caution. And then Mt. Gordon across the south lobe of the Bow Glacier. From that summit, we had a 3,300 foot descent over a few miles to the Bow Hut. As we schussed the last section to the hut, the weather took a turn for the worse, as the leading edge of a storm overtook us. We entered the hut with snow trailing in behind us. This hut, ca.

1989, is the largest on the icefield (30 person capacity) with a hallway

continued on next page

Yatvin Computer Consultants Experienced in troubleshooting, repair, and resolution of software and hardware problems.

Expertise in: • Mac & PC systems • Home & Business systems • New system installations • Wireless & wired networks • Printers & TV/AV/Cable • Software & hardware upgrades • Troubleshooting Competitive & Reasonable Rates Call or email for more info: 503-452-8648 | ycc@yatvincc.net

FEBRUARY 2017 17

Wapata,

continued from previous page separating the dining area from the sleeping area complete with wood stoves in both. There we met an all-ladies crew guided by two women AAC guides.

They had ascended to the hut via the Bow Lake start (Num-Ti-Jah Lodge) and we enjoyed their enthusiasm and sense of adventure.

We awoke to the third ski day with the storm in full throttle. We departed the hut and pushed up the Bow Glacier using our GPS track and compass, slowly working waypoint-to-waypoint in a near whiteout.

Eventually we gained the col (9,520 feet) between Saint Nicholas Peak and Mt. Olive—North in the teeth of a full howling whiteout. From there we launched down the Vulture Glacier, being careful not to approach the crevassed and wind-scoured margins on either The author during his ski side. I led, snowplowing down the glacier, carefully mountaineering traverse. consulting the GPS and compass as Chris kept an eye out for crevasses. At one point, concentrating so hard on progress with no visible landmark in the snow storm, one small crevassed section that is easily negotiated.

I looked past my GPS and compass at my skis and noted I was The small hut itself is situated on a rock outcrop promontory not even moving even though it felt like I was! The whiteout was below Mt. Daly and is perched above the glacier with fine views of disorienting. Eventually, we made it down glacier and popped out the southern section of the traverse and we had it all to ourselves. below the cloud deck at about 8,500 feet recovering some visibility With the relief of having the crux behind us, Chris lent me his of the snow-covered landscape. We kept an eye out for crevasses DeLorme inReach SE satellite tracking device to send a short note and large wind scour traps as we headed made our way to the back to Amy and Micah to let them know the coast was (well, Balfour Hut (a.k.a. Rob J. Ritchie Hut). essentially) clear. We arose again in twilight, packed gear, and We knew the next day would be the crux of the traverse, with a headed out into falling snow with limited visibility expecting a long ascending route up the Balfour Glacier to the Balfour High long day. We skied off the southern lobe of the Daly Glacier, snuck Col at 9,788 feet. From the hut, the route crosses some moraines across the east face of Mt. Niles and stayed above Niles Creek near a large pass over the Rockies and then up what becomes until we could drop down into Sherbrooke Creek. There were essentially a ramp perched below steep slopes prone to avalanche steep sections back-and-forth down the gully of the creek like a with hanging glaciers on the east side of Mt. Balfour (10,735 feet) bobsled run but it eventually dropped out onto the frozen surface and a crevassed icefall below. In one section, the safe route snakes of Sherbrooke Lake. We skied the final stretch through the woods, through a section maybe 40 yards wide. As we had studied the following a trail that leads to Highway 1 and the Great Divide route carefully on Google Earth and examined the pictures in the Lodge. The traverse was now complete.

Balfour Hut, we knew that having visibility in this crux would We drove out and made a stop to see the beautiful Chateau Lake be imperative rather than relying solely on our GPS waypoints.

Louise and snowy winter scene with people enjoying themselves Amazingly on the fourth day, in spite of poor predicted weather, out ice skating on the frozen lake below stunning Mt. Victoria. I the storm broke to a cold and clear blue bird day. We were up picked up a silver and aquamarine pendant for Amy in the village early and off like a shot heading for the col. We made steady below and then we busted out of the Canadian Rockies and made progress and I led up through the crux to where the slope eases off the long drive home back to the States. above. The views were amazing with a sea of peaks, ridges, arêtes, Postlog: A month and a half later, I was sitting at my desk glaciers, alpine faces surrounding us in the brilliant sunshine. starting a new job managing a group of talented engineers Before arriving to the col, we broke off the route and climbed enjoying new engineering challenges and opportunity. I the east flank of the lower southeast ridge of Mt. Balfour. It got reveled in the traverse and the ski mountaineering adventure steep near the crest but I gained it and looked down the equally with friend Chris and with Amy who said “Go.” The tour is steep western flank. Above, the ridge was seemingly blocked by straightforward, accessible, and relatively inexpensive. It does impenetrable rime ice-covered towers. We bailed on our feeble require a combination of basic mountaineering and skiing skills, exploratory attempt at a climb of this citadel, returned to our skis, glacier navigation and crevasse rescue, and land navigation with and made it to the col. map, compass, and GPS. It crosses the spectacular spine of the From the col is a long, sweeping ski out onto to the Daly Glacier, continent and should not be missed! a section named the Waputik Icefield. We took care to make an arc down glacier staying near the spine of the Continental Divide rather than making a straight line to the Scott Duncan Hut. A straight-line ski to the hut from the col puts one at peril crossing through crevasse fields, whereas, the arc is essentially safe save for 18 MAZAMAS

Canyoneering in the Pacific Northwest Course Registration Opens Feb. 15 Canyoneering is the recreational sport of exploring canyons using a variety of techniques such as scrambling, climbing, rappelling, wading, and swimming. The term generally refers to technical descents, requiring the use of ropes, harnesses, and other specialized gear. Canyons can range widely in level of difficulty, from the easy hike-through variety to the extremely technical. Canyons may be dry, or may contain flowing water.

Canyoneering is currently being practiced all over the world, although the sport is most well known in Europe and the United States. It is rapidly growing in popularity. In North America, most people associate canyoneering with the slot canyons of the Colorado Plateau, although there is also excellent canyoneering to be had in the Rocky Mountains, the Sierras, British Columbia, Hawaii, and here in the Cascades. With one of the greatest concentrations of waterfalls in the world, canyoneering is a natural fit for the Pacific Northwest.

In 2017, students will attend four lectures and two field sessions.

The lectures will introduce participants to the planning of a canyon trip: discussing gear, water protection, ethics, hazards, and good practices. We will revisit rappelling as seen through the canyon lens, discuss a variety of rappel tips & tricks, and introduce a set of canyon-specific techniques that are not often used or taught in the climbing world.

Instructors: Keith Campbell, Kevin Clark, Wim Aarts, Karl Helser, Deb Hill.

▶▶ Lectures: June 1, 8, 15, 29 ▶▶ Field Session #1: June 17, 18, 24, or 25 ▶▶ Field Session #2: July 8, 9, 15, or 16 ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center and a number of local creeks. ▶▶ $220 member/$285 nonmember ▶▶ tinyurl.com/MazCanyoneering

Photo: Ken Etze

TO ALL

mazamas Members M O U N TA I N H A R D W E A R

adw ay

SW Tay lor

Bro

722 SW Taylor St. Portland, OR 97205 503-226-6868

Par k

save 20%

PORTLAND STORE

Mountain Hardwear

Receive 20% off your entire purchase at the Mountain Hardwear Portland Store.

Valid only at specified location. Limit one discount per household. Must surrender original, unaltered coupon at the time of purchase. Offer may not be applied to prior purchases, combined with any other offers, used online or at any other store, redeemed by employees, or applied to gift card purchases or shipping charges. @2016 Columbia Sportswear USA Corporation.

FEBRUARY 2017 19

Getting Out of the Gorge

Winter Workout Hikes for the Intrepid

by Darrin Gunkel

G

ive Angel’s Rest a rest. Leave Eagle Creek to the tourists. Here are half a dozen training hikes that reliably offer a decent winter work out, with the added advantage of being close, lonely, or just a nice change of pace. They’re arranged by proximity to Portland (sorry everybody else!): Marquam and Powell in city, Salmon River and Dry Ridge an hour’s drive away, and Cape Lookout and Deschutes both clocking in at two hours. If those last drives seem far for a day hike, don’t worry. The campgrounds at each trailhead are lovely. Why not make an overnight of it and really savor the rainy season ambiance?

MARQUAM SHELTER TO COUNCIL CREST—ABOUT 5 MILES AND 1,000 FEET. Hiking options in the West Hills are nearly limitless, and the biggest problem may be choosing one. If you’re after a quick, brisk workout, this is a good choice. . . it’s one of the fastest ways up to Council Crest. Starting at the Marquam Shelter on Sam Jackson Park Road, you can follow the Sunnyside or Shelter Loop Trails up to their junctions with the Marquam Trail, and then on to the summit.

A thousand feet may not seem like much, but doing it in 2.5 miles is enough to get many a hiker’s pulse up. And besides, with all the time you’ve saved not driving out to Eagle Creek, there’s no reason not to do the trip twice! The prize, on the one clear day out of ten you do this in winter, is one of the most fabulous views from any city park, anywhere: the fair city of Portland, with its backdrop of four stratovolcanoes—not to mention the dozens of smaller volcanoes that make up the Boring Volcanic Field. One of them happens to be our next option.

Lower Deschutes in December.

POWELL BUTTE—8 MILES AND 1,200 FEET—OR MORE! Portland is the only major city in the U.S. with a volcano in its city limits—several, actually. One of them in particular, Powell Butte, is a great training ground. Most trail guides recommend the 5 mile perimeter loop around the park, but download the trail map and take a look. You can string together 10 miles of trail—more if you don’t mind covering some sections twice. To max out the elevation gain, start at the low points of the park. The north entrance (at S.E. 148th Ave. and Center) and the south entrance (off the Springwater trail just east of S.E. 145th Ave.) are both at about 250 feet elevation. The high point at Mountain Finder is 600 feet. Do a traverse over this summit from north to south and back and you’ve racked up 700 feet. Adding the Hawthorne—Cedar Grove—Douglas Fir Loop brings your total to a respectable 1,000 feet. With ups and downs around the perimeter, you can easily get 1,200 feet and nearly 9 miles. Walking here is the best of both worlds: mature second growth forest on the volcano’s flanks, and some of the widest skies west of the cascades in the summit meadow. Shifting views of volcanoes from Mt. St. Helens to Mt. Jefferson keep you entertained on clear days.

20 MAZAMAS

SALMON RIVER—UP TO 12 MILES AND 1,000 FEET Tired of the crowds at Eagle Creek? Bored to death of I-84? Then follow the ski bums and snow borders out Route 26. Taking their leave at Salmon River Road in Welches, just 2.5 miles from the highway, you’ll find the first of several trailheads for the Old Salmon River Trail. The elevation is low enough here to support some truly giant old growth and stay snow-free pretty much the whole winter. Start at the first trailhead to max out mileage and get warmed up. After 2.5 miles of riverside pleasantness, the trail passes the Green Canyon Campground. This is where the workout begins. You can continue on up the Salmon River, gaining elevation slowly and steadily until you hit the snow line.

If you’re lucky, and it’s melted out below 2,500 feet, you’ll reach the Salmon River Canyon, six miles from that first trailhead. Alternately, for a quicker day and to get the blood really moving, from the campground take off up Green Canyon Way, a steep route up to Hunchback Mountain and Devil’s Peak. You’re not likely to get anywhere near either of these in a normal snow year, but this route’s steep enough you may not care.

DRY RIDGE—UP TO 10 MILES AND 3,000 FEET The Roaring River Wilderness is easy to overlook. It doesn’t have close up views of soaring peaks, and while the forest there is nice, it’s easily overshadowed by dozens of nearby stands. Most visitors to the Clackamas Canyon come for the river, anyway. A viewless trail that launches straight up from the trailhead? Not on many radars, even though it’s just over an hour from Portland. You can count on peace and quiet on Dry Ridge—and a good workout. The Roaring River Campground, where you’ll find parking for the trail, is at about 1,000 feet elevation. The first two miles gain 2,000 feet. If it’s a dry year, or later in the season, you’ll find on the upper section a steady grind that feels steeper than it actually is. The turnaround is a non-descript junction with the Grouse Point Trail. If you’ve made it this far, and still haven’t had enough, follow that one all the way down to the Roaring River, 2,500 feet and 2.5 miles below. Just remember, you’ll have to come back up.

CAPE LOOKOUT—9. 6 MILES, 1,200 FEET Begin this hike at the trailhead most people use and it’s more like stretching your legs. Start down at the beach, though, and you add a solid workout to this rightfully famed coast hike. This alternate start lies at sea level, by the day use zone in Cape Lookout State Park, and not far from the car camp. The high point of the trail is actually at the main Cape Lookout Trail parking lot, 850 feet and just shy of 2.5 miles up from the beach. From here, you lose 400 feet on the way out to the end to the Cape Lookout: a basalt cliff jutting 2.5 miles into the north Pacific Ocean. This is the one stretch that might give you pause in the winter. While not exposed in a mountaineering sense, the way comes close enough to high, sheer cliffs, that on the rare icy day it’s probably not worth the risk. If that’s the case, from the upper parking lot, drop down in 2 miles to the south beach. You lose a mile in distance, but make up for it with an extra 400 feet elevation gain for the day.

DESCHUTES RIVER So you’ve whetted your appetite for wide open skies on top of Powell Butte, but the constant clouds have left you feeling a bit starved. Head east! Provided the Gorge isn’t a tunnel of ice, Deschutes River State Recreation Area and a 50 percent chance of sunshine (beats the west side odds!) isn’t too far away.

The trail here’s more about distance than elevation, but off-trail hiking on the canyon walls is straightforward. So, if you feel the need to feel the burn, find a route that speaks to you and head up. Just beware of private property signs— or more likely, unsigned barbed wire marking the limits of public land. The lower 2 miles of the trail is state land. Beyond, you’re in the realm of the BLM. In theory, you can walk all the way to Mack’s Canyon, 23 miles away at the end of the riverside road heading south from Oregon Route 216 near Tygh Valley.

Setting up a car shuttle would make for a neat, but long, day.

Winter light on the Salmon River Trail.

January storm at Cape Lookout.

Winter light on the lower Deschutes.

FEBRUARY 2017 21

Approaching the fire lookout tower on skis. Above: Author's husband begins ski trip to fire lookout tower.

Below: Sunrise from the fire lookout tower. Photos: Azure Olson.

r e t Win erland d n o W

At a Cozy Fire Lookout Tow

22 MAZAMAS

by Azure Olson

M

y favorite outing of the winter season is renting a fire lookout tower. Why? There is nothing more satisfying than strapping on those skis and heavy pack for the long trek in. As you begin up the trail, you breathe in the fresh winter air, then finally get that first glimpse of the tower and you know you are near.

For the past seven years, my husband and I have cross country skied every year to a tower, all in Oregon. We have rented them as early as December, but January and February are ideal months because of the snow conditions. The skiing ranges from 2 to 11 miles, and conditions can be terrible or pristine. We tend to gravitate toward a longer ski in to make it a worthwhile adventure and justify all that relaxing we intend to do. I would say a typical stay for a lookout is two nights. Ski in one day, relax the next, and ski out the final day. I personally think one night is too little time, and three nights would be too much, but you can pick your poison.

To prepare for your stay, make sure that you pack yummy food and drinks! There will be a refrigerator, oven, and stove at most. Definitely check with the local ranger to make sure what amenities are in working order, to avoid an unpleasant surprise. Don’t worry, ample silverware, plates, and cookware are available at the tower. Do expect a rustic experience, there is an outhouse at the bottom, and wood is available to pulley up. Be prepared to stoke the fire all night to keep it cozy warm. Some towers are equipped with propane stoves. Additionally, plan to pulley your snow up into the tower, melt it, and boil it. This is a continuous process to keep the water going.

Now your food and drinks are packed and you are ready to go. Make sure those skis are waxed for the ski in. Oh, and don’t forget the door code, that would be a bummer! Yes, those packs are heavy because you have packed all kinds of yummy food and drinks. Now you can be on your merry way.

Unless we have a good snow year, and depending on

when you rent the tower, snow conditions could be sparse. Sometimes the skiing can require a lot of on and off with some walking involved. I highly recommend you don’t underestimate the difficulty of the ski in, because by the time you get there, you will be spent.

You are there! Now what? Take off your skis and walk your gear to the top of the tower. Once there, take off your boots, take a load off, and take in the views. Next up would be to prepare for the night by getting wood and snow ready to be brought up to the tower. Then you are all set. Kick back, play some games, read and write some journal entries, and watch the sunrise.

I love waking up in the tower surrounded by 360-degree views. It is still spectacular with no view, and especially if a storm develops. If you are lucky you can feel the tower swaying in the wind--quite an adventure!

Make sure to respect and take care of all fire towers. We want to keep using these beautiful places for the years to come. Sign the guest book (and don’t forget to read previous entries), join the club, and prepare yourself for a memorable experience.

Finally, I encourage you to donate money to the Forest Fire Lookout Association (www. firelookout.org).

wer

FEBRUARY 2017 23

AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART THURSDAY, FEB 2: BCEP INFO NIGHT An additional reminder for those interested in learning the fundamentals of mountain climbing; many AYM leaders will be present to advocate this wonderful and inspiring program.

SUNDAY, FEB 5: HIKE—HAMILTON MOUNTAIN If anyone else wants to burn off some calories before the start of Super Bowl 51, why not join AYM for an ascent up Hamilton Mountain? Waterfalls and vistas are present on this beautiful hike on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. This 7.5 mile loop takes off from the Hamilton Mountain Trailhead, then through a Douglas Fir forest for about a mile before we hit the waterfalls cascading down from Hardy Creek. We follow a steep climb beneath cliff faces and switchbacks before arriving onto a ridge and then the summit of “Little Hamilton” with great Gorge views. From there it’s another mile towards the summit, which has disappointing views so we’ll hike past it to enjoy better landscapes and lunch at the top of the plateau, weather permitting. We’ll then take a combination of old roads and small trails to return to the parking lot.

Washington Discovery Pass required. Carpools will meet at Gateway TC at 8 a.m. Target return time is 2 p.m. Drive: 70 miles RT. Trip capped to 12 people. 7.5 mile loop, 2,000 ft. elevation gain.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE

Leader: Mike Kacmar, mikekacmar@yahoo.com SAT-SUN, FEB 18–19: BACKPACK—NESIKA LODGE WEEKEND Join AYM for our annual backpack trip to Nesika Lodge in collaboration with the Trail Clubs of Oregon. Every winter, AYM and TCO join forces to offer an exciting weekend of hiking, snowshoeing (weather permitting), and an evening at the Nesika Lodge filled with fun, games, and hanging out with friends. 5-10 miles, 2–3,000 ft. elevation gain depending on route. Drive: 40 miles from MMC. Prospectus to be sent to participants. Email leader directly for more information, sign up form to be posted on the website in late January. Leader: Reena Clements, reenac@ bu.edu MONDAY, FEB 27, 2017: COMMITTEE MEETING Would you like to help plan AYM events? We are looking for volunteers! We invite everyone to come join our monthly committee meeting at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). We will review the past month's activities and plan for future events.

We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group.

All ages are welcome.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net.

Executive Council liaison Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas.org, 503227-0974, or classics@mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN MARCH Contact Rose Marie Gilbert by the 12th of the month for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick-up point is Gateway; our west side is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events, you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact transportation coordinator, Flora Huber, at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MONTHLY MEETINGS The Classics meet the fourth Monday of the month from 11 a.m. –12:30 p.m. at the MMC. Please check the website for specific dates.

24 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA LODGE YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN

Kaite Barker enjoying a meal at Mazama Lodge. Photo: Charles Barker

Elizabeth Kate ("Katie") Barker, Lifelong Mazama SEPT. 29, 1936–DEC. 17, 2016

by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager My mother passed away in mid-December. Loss is difficult, but I have so much to be thankful for. My mother sought to expose my siblings and me to many rich life experiences, and so many of them relate to the Mazamas. Her parents, Gerald and Betty Moore, were part of a close-knit Mazama group that formed lifelong friendships in the 1920s and 30s and enriched my own family’s life. They met on a 1920s Mazama hike around Mount St. Helens.

Katie Moore Barker followed her mother and grandmother in climbing Mt. Hood. She also climbed Mount. St. Helens before and after its eruption. My sister and I have climbed mountains to earn Mazama membership, as have our children.

My mother joined the Mazamas in 1953 and was part of the Oberteuffer Mazama Youth Group throughout her high school years.

Mazama Lodge was a second home to hundreds of young adults in those days, and the Oberteuffers were like second parents to hundreds of young Mazamas over the years.

Some veteran members still call our present-day lodge the “New Lodge,” even though it’s 57 years old. When a fundraiser was started to rebuild this lodge in the 1950s, Katie was in her second year of teaching at West Linn High School, and even on her teacher’s salary, she was happy to contribute financially to its construction.

In the late 1970s, she introduced me to Mazama Lodge, and I quickly joined the Mazama Explorer Post that Keith Mischke led. Katie served on the Lodge Committee in the mid-1990s, and during that time, she helped enable a group of foster families to use the lodge. We have shared many wonderful times at the lodge, including Thanksgivings, cookie decorating, folk dancing, and many New Year’s Eve celebrations, as well as using the lodge as home base for countless hikes and cross-country ski trips.

As a final thank you to the Mazamas, Katie bequeathed $13,000 in memory of her late parents, Gerald E. Moore and Elizabeth London Moore, whose love for the Mazamas lives on through the generations.

SATURDAY, MARCH 1, NOON—8 P.M. Free Family Event! Registration begins at noon.

We will have our outdoor Root Beer Garden and hamburger and garden burger grill open from noon– 1:30 p.m. Dinner is $13.25 for adults and $7 for kids.

Event activities include: ▷▷ Birkebeiner Race ▷▷ Snow Sculpture ▷▷ Folk Dancing ▷▷ And so much more!

For the second year in a row, Mark Seker and his twin boys Koh and Abe will serve as festival directors.

For questions concerning the event, please contact Mark Seker at markseker@gmail.com.

In recognition of the epic snow we’ve had at the mountain this year, we’ve decided to warm things up a little with a tropical theme for our awards banquet.

Wear your favorite Hawaiian shirt, even if you have to put it on over your winter coat.

PRESIDENT'S DAY WEEKEND Mazama Lodge will be open all day on President's Day, closing at noon on Tuesday, Feb. 21.

FEBRUARY AVAILABILITY The lodge is open every Friday night throughout the month of February for Mazama members. We are also open for members on Saturday, Feb. 25. The lodge gets very busy in the winter, although during the first half of January we had a number of cancellations because of too much snow. Keep checking the online calendar for updates. As a reminder, we are an alcohol-free and pet-free lodging facility.

LOCKERS As a gentle reminder, if you have not paid your annual locker rental fee of $25 per year, your rental fee is now past due. We will be cleaning out lockers in the next couple of months in preparation for the used equipment sale. Payment can be made by calling the lodge directly at 503-272-9214.

FEBRUARY 2017 25

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAY AT 7 P.M., MID-OCT. THROUGH MIDAPRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER. Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

Slot Canyoneering in South Central Utah—Feb. 1

Feb.

1

Utah is home to some of the best slot canyons in the world. Join Vaqas Malik for a photo journey to some remote technical slot canyons in areas of San Rafael Swell, Robber Roost and North Wash in south-central Utah. The program includes travel guidelines, technical preparation and also some photography tips for slot canyons.

Iceland to France—Feb. 8 USING ICELAND AIR AS A SPRINGBOARD TO CONTINENTAL EUROPE Susan Brickey and Rick Pope recount their 4 week trip to Iceland, France and northern Italy. We will explore the self guiding possibilities for the south Icelandic coast followed by a bike tour of the Provence region of France. From there we travel by train to Chamonix for a week of hiking the fabulous trails of this famous valley in the shadow of Mt. Blanc.

Finally, a bus trip through the Mt. Blanc tunnel into northern Italy leads to the town of Aosta where 2,000 year-old Roman ruins still exist in a region dotted by medieval castles.

Gondolas lead from the town directly to hiking and mountain biking trails 5,000 feet up the nearby hillsides. A high speed train ride completes the trip back to Paris.

Feb.

8

PERU TREKKING OFF THE BEATEN PATH. Very high, remote, scenic trekking in Peru. TWO treks offered this year: 11 days, from the Bosque de Piedras to near the Quelcaya icecap, to Pacchanta using part of our route from 2016, much at 16,000 feet plus; and 8 days, from Chua Chua to Ccoylloriti and Tinqui, not quite as high. October 2017. Contact climb leader Ellen Gradison: ellengradison@gmail.com for more info.

Tracy Andrews Acupuncture

acupuncture, herbal medicine, & craniosacral therapy

3133 NE Prescott St Portland OR 97211

tracyandrewsacupuncture.com

971.251.0320

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

26 MAZAMAS

Zambia: Africa's Best Kept Safari Secret—Feb. 15 People tend to venture into Zambia when in Livingstone to see Victoria Falls. Zambia hosts one of the largest and oldest national parks in Africa, yet most safari-goers don’t make it to Kafue National Park to see cheetahs enjoying the uninterrupted space, or to Liuwa Plains with its impressive migration of wildebeest. Wildlife is abundant amid a diversity of landscapes across the country, from the mountainous Lower Zambezi to South Luangwa’s river valley teaming with hippos, crocodiles, and thirsty visitors.

Zambia offers many safari activities: canoeing in the Lower Zambezi, walking in South Luangwa and laid-back bush camps. An overview of safari options in Zambia and neighboring countries of Malawi, Zimbabwe, and Botswana will be presented by Erica Varga, owner/operator of Worlds Away Safaris.

Wapta Icefield Ski Traverse in the Canadian Rockies— Feb. 22 In March 2016, Keith Daellenbach of Portland and Chris Haagen (Oakland) drove 700 miles to Lake Louise nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.

The next day they departed from just north of Bow Summit and for 5-days and 4-nights they skied along the crest of Rockies across the Wapta and Waputik Icefields. They crossed multiple glaciers and summited two peaks (Mt. Olive-North and Mt. Gordon) along the way and each night stayed in Alpine Club of Canada huts. After 36 miles of skiing they ended at The Great Divide Lodge near Kicking Horse Pass on the Trans-Canada Highway. This ski mountaineering adventure is straightforward, accessible, and relatively inexpensive. It crisscrosses the spectacular spine of the continent and should not be missed! (Read more about it on page 16.)

Mar.

1

Fun, Failures & Mediocrity—March 1 A SAMPLING OF MULTI-PITCH ROCK CLIMBS BEYOND NORTH AMERICA For the last nine years Radek & Shirley Chalupa have focused on finding interesting places to rock climb around the world. They are weekend warriors so this will be an overview of everyman’s routes.

From the karst mountains of southern China to the sea stacks of Tasmania, from the splitter granite cracks of Argentina to the huge desert towers of Mali and beyond—they’ll give the highlights of the trips, both climbing and cultural, and will address questions about planning and logistics.

Portland’s only dedicated climbing and mountaineering shop

Mazamas Members receive a 10% discount $9.95 Mazamas CLIMBX

Guide Pro Belay Device

CLIMBX

Ultra Wiregate

Reg. $30

Reg. $12

$5.95 Mazamas

CLIMBX

Mountain Ice Axe Reg. $80

$39.95 Mazamas

ClimbMaxMountaineering.com 628 NE Broadway Street #140, Portland, OR. 97232

Call: 503.816.0207 FEBRUARY 2017 27

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC HELLS CANYON BACKPACK APRIL 22–28 Backpack Snake River National Recreation Trail enjoying Hells Canyon’s solitude, Old West history, scenery, and wildlife. Backpack 10-12 miles/day, moderate pace, carrying five day’s food and camping gear.

Cost: $220–$290 depending on group size.

Covers carpool, campground and Outing fees. Participants responsible for meals and equipment. Pre-trip meeting April 11. Full payment due March 20.

Contact outing leader Rex Bruensbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com or assistant leader Reuel Kurzet, rkurzet@comcast.net for information or to apply.

HIKE THE CANYONS OF SOUTHWEST UTAH APRIL 29–MAY 6 Join us to explore canyons and enjoy the beauty of Southwest Utah. We plan to spend the first afternoon in Bryce Canyon National Park after picking up rental vehicles at the Las Vegas Airport (plan an early flight), then drive to Escalante RV Park where we will be staying for seven nights in shared cabins. Camping is also available as we have sites reserved.

From there, we will lead B and C hikes in the canyons—there will be an optional one night backpack to Coyote Gulch. Outing cost is $224–$235 for tent/nonmember $294–$305; $295–$306 for cabin/nonmember $365– $376. Costs include lodging, permits, and fees. Participants are responsible for travel (SUV or crossover vehicle recommended) and all meals. A $75 deposit is required by Feb. 1.

Contact Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail. com or Assistant leader Lesley Langan at leslely@yahoo.com for more information or to apply. We will have a pre-outing meeting in Feb. 2017.

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person,

28 MAZAMAS

airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees, and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website.

Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org for more information.

MT. THIELSEN TO DIAMOND PEAK PCT BACKPACK JULY 21–28 Backpack the spectacular Pacific Crest Trail from Mt. Thielsen to Diamond Peak. We begin with a Mt. Thielsen climb, then continue on the Pacific Crest Trail to our climb of Diamond Peak. Lakes, forest, and countless scenic views await you on this comfortably paced trip. We’ll take seven days to cover the 57 miles of trail and climb approaches. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with four days of food and camping gear, and have class “A” climbing skills.

Outing cost of $142 to $345 for a group size of three to five, including leaders. Cost includes mileage to and from our entry and exit points, plus campground and Outing fees.

Participants are responsible for their meals and equipment. A trip overview and gear assessment and recommendation session will be held prior to departure.

A $150 deposit is due June 20. Outing Leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail. com) 503-297-6344. Assistant Leader: TBD

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG. 5 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017.

Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day-hike Monday–Friday.

There will be two hikes offered each day, a combination of A- and B-level hikes in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park.

Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175 for

members and $245 for nonmembers.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register.

OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING AUG 9–16 Based out of Humbug Mountain State Park, we will hike approximately 70 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the California border. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with trails through the headlands. This is a diverse area with spectacular scenery.

Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $105–$240 depending on the number of participants and member status. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15. (Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountain State Park.)

Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com), 503-297-6344; Assistant Leader: TBD.

Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub. org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

Discover Nepal.

Trekking in the Himalayas is as much about the warm and welcoming Nepali people as it is the majestic mountains.

We have a trek for everyone, from the most experienced hiker to those just looking to try something new:

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek AST

(14 days) Journey deep into the Himalayas, hike the glacial Modi Khola River gorge, pass through Gurung settlements and into a breath-taking alpine area.

Everest Base Camp EBC

(19 days) This trek needs no introduction! The scenery is mind blowing with towering snow-capped peaks and jagged ridgelines whichever way you look.

L WITH

AYAS

US

TU

4 6 10

RE

S

THE HIMAL

TRAVE

THE TRIPS

I

P

WHY

ST

ALL ABOUT

S BE

(18 days) Journey along an ancient salt trading route between Tibet and India, exploring the lowest pass through the Himalayas, west of Sikkim in India.

Inside…

tic majes ing er the Discov yas on our hik Himala Nepal. trips in

N

Forbidden Kingdom of Lo Mustang

E ADV

(14 days) Avoid high elevations and hike deep into the Everest/Khumbu region, see the world’s highest peaks, massive glaciers and remote mountain villages.

TH

Everest Lodge to Lodge Khumbu

W O R L D’

E

TR

Get your FREE BROCHURE at: activehimalayas.com or call 1 800 661 9073

FEBRUARY 2017 29

The DISCOVERY of the Serendipity Spires

by Zach Clanton

G

laciers, mountains, rivers, forests, tundra; a landscape rich with places that have never felt the tread of human feet. It thrills me not because I can break first ground, but because first ground remains unbroken." ~ Kim Heacox

From June 22 to July 16, 2016, James Gustafson, Reese Doyle and I spent 25 days exploring the new alpine climbing arena we call The Serendipity Spires. This once-in-alifetime discovery trip of the “Bugaboos of Alaska” was made possible by the Mazamas Monty Smith Memorial Grant. But as climbers who reside in AK, our relationship with these mountains is greater than any one trip. With every passing year, flights and expeditions continue to snowball into the cumulative mountain sense that defines our future endeavors.

We have made it our goal to utilize the thriving bush plane culture and continually search for quality stone on unnamed, unclimbed peaks, separate from areas with previous climbing history. Because of the sheer vastness of the Great State, the potential for classic new routes not only exists in established areas, but also within groups of peaks that still remain off the climbing world's radar. This simple prospect excites us to no end.

Although our trip was the result of four years of searching, logistical nightmares and chossy misadventures, my first glimpse of the spires was actually incidental. I snapped my first photo purely by instinct, like a moth to a flame, and from a great distance while flying to an entirely different destination.

It wasn't until months later that I took a closer look at my aerial photos and started

30 MAZAMAS

the investigation. I had inadvertently taken pictures of these striking rock formations with my long lens but locating them was not as easy. I had to cross reference the photograph time stamps and approximate headings on the aviator’s compass with Google Earth images and inaccurate topo maps. After the coordinates were certain, I still had no idea what the rock would be like, how to walk in or where the nearest landing zone was. I would have to wait another year for the snow to melt and that perfect day to get in the plane once more. As a result, the greatest endeavor was simply figuring out how to approach and arrive at our base camp to begin mapping out the potential of these beautiful spires (not to mention the endless weather, flying, and food/gear packing logistics).

When the day of departure finally came and our bags were packed, a floatplane took us 100 miles from the nearest road and settled into the choppy waters of a blue-green lake. Our feet then took us five days through sixteen brutal miles of thick forests, rushing waters and sprawling tundra to a base camp beneath the collection of granite peaks. Flying, hiking and climbing in a world of eagles, bears and Dall sheep.

Gold panning, camping and foraging in a place riddled with minerals, blueberries and mushrooms. Through tremendous effort, we discovered our own version of paradise

where peaks remain nameless and even the USGS maps don't speak the truth.

Much of the reason I go to the effort to do these exploratory trips is not just because I believe the best and most classic rock climbs in Alaska are yet to be found. It seems that most guidebook “classics” are either unattainable by mere mortals or dangerous choss piles. We do this in an effort to search the enormous wilderness so that we can contribute to the climbing community as a whole and open up quality areas that generations of climbers will continue to expand upon safely, free of objective hazard.

And I can safely say that my mission has been accomplished. We hit the jackpot this year with the initial discovery of the three cirques and the summiting of one (out of four) of the Serendipity Spires. All other climbing attempts, despite their high quality, fell short of the other summits due to long stretches of bad weather and dwindling food supplies.

The Salmon Shark was a different story.

As luck would have it, Reese and I lost the rock paper scissors battle to James for the first beautiful pitch of the climb. But when it came time for the final summit pitch that would place the first person on top of the peak, it was Reese's turn and he took the rack with a big ole smile.

Predatory Waters was our first bit of climbing on day eight of the trip and it

James and Reese on the first ascent of the Salmon Shark Below: (Left) James and Zach, (Right) Zach climbing Predatory Waters on The Salmon Shark. Photos by Reese Doyle

started out harmless enough. The weather looked threatening so our plan to walk up and find the start turned into roping up when the clouds began to lift. Then the sun came out and pitch by quality pitch, this ultra classic route revealed itself to be one of the most wild and exposed adventures I have ever known, topping out on the unclimbed coffee table summit of the Salmon Shark.

The fine red line has been used to represent many classic climbs but what you don’t ever see is the real context of humans on rock, the hand jams and the high-step mantles. The deep breath and look around the corner to see if that crack system goes is something that is tough to convey through images.

"Maybe there's just no truthful 'big picture' to be had when you're still buzzing with the intensity of the details. Maybe the idea of looking at things from a bird's-eye view and seeing it all isn't the right way to think about this strange activity of ours. Perhaps it's more about immersion, about losing oneself willfully in the surroundings and the act." - Christoph Willumeit

The lesson was simple.

This was far more than just a climbing trip. This was a relationship with our environment. From the moody weather that alternately encouraged and confined our movement to the herds of Dall sheep that used our favorite bad weather hang-out spot as a back-scratching rock, this wild place dictated our every activity.

Our trusty Black Diamond Mega Light aka Mega Dude Sandwich served as base camp. This was our home and singular shelter for every night of the twenty-five day trip. During the five-day approach, we were usually posted up on a sandy beach by the river, but most of the time, we were on the only soft patch of tundra around.

A "dry" camp was most enjoyable to all of us after a long winter spent camping on glaciers, walking around barefoot amongst the wildflowers and mushrooms. This is not to say that the camp was not a "wet" one. We definitely had whiskey and it definitely came in handy during the week-long downpour.

At over 5,000 feet, when storms move in, it can seem like you are living in the cotton ball version of Groundhog Day. Short breaks in the clouds were often the highlights of our

day and a great excuse to get out of the tent and drink more whiskey.

With tools like Google Earth and guidebooks for every climbing destination on the planet, it’s easy for the modern climber to think that pioneering in the old ways no longer exists. Maybe it’s because of our community’s obsession with numbers and stats. Maybe it’s because of climbing’s recent surge in popularity or that everyone thinks all the cherries must have already been picked by Fred Beckey. There’s no real way to put your finger on it.

Although most of today's ascents seem to be about repeating someone else's line in a faster time, different style or putting up a new line on a known mountain that is so hard and/or dangerous that it'll never be repeated, the idea of climbing as a means of discovery is alive and well in Alaska. What we seek is genuine adventure in a landscape free of human history, where the actual climbing is a product of exploration, not an Internet search. The Serendipity Spires is a place and state of mind where the freedom to trace the original line up an untouched peak is still done with one’s own creativity.

And this is just the beginning!

FEBRUARY 2017 31

HUT-TO-HUT SKI TOURING IN PATAGONIA’S BACKCOUNTRY

Jorge pointing back towards Cerro Catedral, our starting point. Photo: Mike Myers.

by Mike Myers

P

atagonia has always been an elusive goal.

Nearly halfway around the world, to make it worthwhile requires more than a week’s worth of vacation days. So when I saw a two-week window in my schedule open in early September, I called a buddy in Bend and we buried ourselves in Google searches.

I like to plan most of my tours myself, but when traveling abroad, I’ve found the bit of extra cost in using a guide service is well worth the time saved. Having someone familiar with the terrain, who speaks the language, and can get priority beds and service helps tilt the scales of adventure and vacation a bit more evenly. The downside is you may be paired with people you might not get along with, who don’t have a similar skill level, or have unknown risk tolerances. At the same time, it forces you to interact with people from different cultures you might otherwise miss which, besides skiing, is the best part of a hut-tohut experience. I will remember some of the lines I skied during hut trips forever, but my notebook is just as prized. It’s filled with recommendations for trips in Norway, Japan, Alaska, Finland, and Italy along with names of guides in those areas--all gleaned from crazy stories told while drinking beer in a hut around a roaring wood stove. That’s one of the takeaways to love most about hut skiing and skiing in general--the commonality in spirit and adventure bringing everyone together.

We decided to book a guided tour through PowderQuest, a U.S.-based company with a lot of good reviews. There are a host of items to consider when picking a guide company. We focused on the guide to client ratio (we had a comfortable

32 MAZAMAS

Finally found some corn lines and doing laps.

Photo: Mike Myers.

1:3), the size of the group (ours was limited to 6), and the ground services provided. The PowderQuest trip included transit to and from the airport and transition shuttles at the park entry and exit; lodging before and after the trip for respite days; meals, bedding, and sleeping pads in the huts; IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Association) or Argentine Mountain Guide Association (AAGM) certified, bilingual guides; and all entry fees and lift tickets. Most of the companies we reviewed required trip insurance which, when traveling with that much expensive gear, you should do anyway. I chose World Nomads. They have a decent policy that covers backcountry skiing and evacuation (something to check as some policies exclude what they consider “extreme sports”).

One important thing we didn’t have on our checklist, or think to ask about (but everyone uses), was toilet paper. While the huts we chose (Frey and Jacob in Nahuel Huapi Park) have outhouses, they do not come with toilet paper, and napkins are handed out like currency. If you neglect to bring it, you better become paperback speed readers.

Once I locked in our trip reservations and flights, I learned researching weather and snow conditions was a much tougher task than in the States, particularly the PNW. Here we have a myriad of tools at our disposal to determine what conditions to anticipate: Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC) reports, the NOAA website, Avalanche.org, Snow-Forecast.com, various blogs, and multiple ski resort reports.

Researching these variables in South America proved to be more challenging.

Resorts like Cerro Catedral provide basic information on new snow levels, and more popular spots like Tierra del Fuego have some accessible avy references, but the avalanche conditions in much of the backcountry were more opaque, particularly if you aren’t fluent in Spanish. What proved helpful was the real time beta we garnered from calling the ski shops in Bariloche, and eventually getting hold of a guide who’d recently been out in the area we planned to visit. Of course we packed all the standard avalanche gear (probe, shovel, beacon, snow saw, snow study kit, repair kit, 10 essentials, medical kits, crampons, ice axe, helmet, layers, etc), but we still weren’t sure what skis to bring. The forecast showed a big storm coming in from the south but, if it shifted, we could be stuck with our fatties on ice sheets. Thankfully, our B&B in Bariloche offered storage, so I packed two alpine touring (AT) alternatives, a pair of 178 cm Dynafit Manaslus that are 95 mm underfoot and some 178 cm DPS Lotuses that are 120 mm underfoot. Both are set-up with Dynafit TLT Radical ST tech bindings and fit to one boot, my Scarpa Maestrale RSs. With these two alternatives, I could handle hardpack or deep powder.

Our eight day journey started in Bariloche, Argentina. An old mission town, today

Bariloche attracts tourists year round with its quaint streets lined with chocolate shops and serves as a popular jumping off point for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. For those from the PNW, finding good beer in Argentina can be like finding a sunny day in Portland in February. So finally locating a brewery serving a decent IPA is worth noting. Pro tip: save some time in Bariloche and go straight to Berlina Brewery if you’re homesick for hops.

The weather on day one suggested the storm was going to stay south and miss us, calling for the Manaslus. A quick briefing in the morning, then we were off. To cut out 2,000 feet of elevation gain with a full pack, we began our trip to the first refugio, Frey Hut, via a single purchase lift pass at the Catedral ski resort. Since the huts come stocked with food, drink, and sleeping pads, you mainly pack layers, snacks, a sleeping bag, and safety gear. Not having a tent, food, or booze saves a lot of weight (note, the huts serve wine and beer for super cheap, $1.50 a beer and $6 US for a decent bottle of Argentinian wine), but a week’s worth of gear still adds up. My pack tipped the scales at a little over 45 lbs. In hindsight, I shouldn’t have packed so many snacks for the tour. Meals were hearty and the hut staff provided a bag lunch that sufficed for most of the daily caloric needs. At the end of the trip, I still had most of the bars and gels I’d packed in. Having that additional weight also made our first run of day one, down a 38 degree couloir, an interesting experiment in getting my legs back after not skiing for four months.

Arriving at Frey Hut (5,100 feet elevation), we encountered more weekenders than anticipated. Due to its close proximity to the resort, and open reservations during the winter, you roll the dice on there being

Approaching Refugio Frey, our home base for the first three days. Photo: Mike Myers.

anywhere from 12—60 people on any given night. Our first night there, we crapped out.

People were sleeping on wooden benches in the outhouse, the floor of the kitchen, sandwiched next to one another in the two bunkhouses. Needless to say, you put that many sweaty bodies and wet ski boots in one place and it makes the rental shop at Timberline smell like a flower shop. As we all know from the Mazama Lodge, it only takes one heavy snorer to keep everyone up all night, so earplugs are a must. On the plus side, with that many people you’re forced into meeting a lot of cool, like-minded folks.

I shared a few beers with a Canadian who was sailing from Vancouver to the southern tip of Chile and had arranged to meet up with his three buddies at the Frey Hut as a milestone party for his trek. It was hard not to chat it up with a group of Swedish guys in their 50’s who were pounding wine and laughing uncontrollably at themselves as they rattled off dirty jokes all night. A Norwegian ski guide tried to convince us to go on his annual sailing and ski trip through the Fjords. “You get a little wet here and there, sure, but imagine skiing during the day, then sailing to your next mountain. It’s pretty cool.” Hard to disagree with that.

All those weekend warriors jettisoned the next day and we had a bunkhouse to ourselves and room to spread out. Breakfast and dinner were prepared fresh each day, and by fresh I mean they baked the bread each morning, roasted the meats at night, and made everything from scratch.

Replacing those Mountain House dinners with homestyle cooking and having a cold beer next to a wood-fired stove, all while

continued on next page FEBRUARY 2017 33

Hut-to-Hut, continued from previous page watching the sun set out the window of the dining area, well, some might say that’s heaven. At night, when the wind died down, you could lounge on the Adirondack chairs outside the front door and watch the stars churn by. With stars from horizon to horizon, it brought back memories of a recent trip to Yosemite, but with the odd sense that these weren’t the same constellations I was used to seeing. Our guide told us stories of moonlit tours he’d done on prior outings when the sky was clear. He encouraged us to go explore, but after a long day of skiing, a hearty meal, and a few glasses of wine, zonking out comes early.

Each day we’d set out around 9:30 a.m. and ski till 4 or 5 p.m., all within the granite spires flanking the frozen lake outside the Frey Hut. Elevation ranged from around 3,000 feet at the valley floor to approximately 7,200 feet for most ridges. Daily elevation gains averaged around 5,000 feet, equating to two or three longer runs. Each day we’d eat breakfast, do a quick beacon and gear check, then head out. I was a bit shocked there wasn’t more of a snowpack discussion.

Prodding our guide, Jorge, for tidbits of information about the risks of the day yielded very little. He told us he had been coming up to the hut nearly every day for the past three months, which I convinced myself translated into some comfort.

Most have heard Patagonia is famous for its ferocious wind. Frey Hut did not disappoint, in fact the wind blew my buddy’s puffy shoe off on the way to the outhouse on night one. Thankfully, with temps in the 20s, the wind wasn’t crushing and we had sufficient layers to stay warm. But, in addition to hijacking shoes, the high winds also made the skiing largely windswept hardpack. Most mornings required scribing lines up icy slopes with ski crampons. For the one splitboarder in our group, this did not bode well. Midway through the trip he just couldn’t get sufficient purchase on the long steep climbs with his soft boots, and by the end of the third day, with boots that weren’t fitting quite right, his shins were bloody and raw. A pow wow with the guide and a client who was also a doctor convinced him to turn back. That’s not to say the snow was all hard-packed and challenging. Jorge knew of a few stashes of corn on leeward aspects, and took us to some couloirs that held the corn pretty well.

34 MAZAMAS

That’s when a guide is worth every penny.

After three days skiing from Frey Hut, we packed up and headed to Jacob Hut, a bit further into the park over two mountain passes. Jorge warned us, “Be prepared to do a lot of traversing and climbing today.” It was definitely a long eight hour day of skinning and survival skiing. Maneuvering between brush on the way out of a valley is one thing, but picking your way down a 30-plus degree slope through scrub can be quite another.

After each ridge we encountered a frozen lake needing to be traversed. This may not sound that exciting but when you decide to have lunch in the middle of a frozen lake flanked by jagged peaks all around you, I could think of worse places to spend the afternoon.

Over the second ridge, we encountered a section eerily exposed to a few terrain traps: 40-plus foot cliffs within 100 yards down slope. Later, we discovered the couloirs those cliffs had created captured a wealth of corn that proved to be a lot of fun, offering a few air-catching opportunities off buried rocks. However, that was about 800 feet below. Just after the ridge crest it was nearly a sheet of ice. If you lost an edge you risked tumbling over the cliffs. That was the moment I wished I’d had leashes on my skis.

They were on my other skis--I’d forgotten to switch them over. While I had ski brakes, if I bit it those wouldn’t stop a runaway ski from disappearing off the edge of the cliff. I don’t like to do it, but I locked my tech toes just in case I fell so my skis wouldn’t come off.

With some intense concentration, everyone passed the danger zone with flying colors, and we were rewarded with corn-a-plenty.

So pro tip number two: Put leashes on all your skis.

Due to the relative difficulty in getting to Jacob Hut, no one had been there yet this spring. The cooks had skinned in the day prior to our arrival to dig it out. While they were able to free the entrance to the hut, the outhouse was too buried; hence the quickly coined terms, “wee pee bucket” and “ye ole poo shovel.” The walls of Jacob Hut are lined with faded group photos from 50 plus years of skiing and hiking memories, labeled in a dozen languages, nearly all with exclamation points. The hut seeps with history, making you feel like part of a ritualistic tribe. It’s more rustic than the Frey Hut and with that comes more character. One cross beam is carved like a mermaid and the books along

the windowsill are well worn--signs of down time after a long ski day or getting snowed in. The skiing around Jacob is similar to Frey, in that you tend to start the day skinning across the frozen lake to take your pick at a horseshoe of ridgelines. Topping any one of them takes away your breath and explains why people come to Patagonia --granite spires and steep angular pyramids as far as you can squint.

After three more days at Jacob we had two options for the route out. A shrub-dodging ski down to the riverbed followed by an eight mile hike out with skis on our back, or a half day skin up to a ridgeline that cuts a few miles off the hike. Unfortunately, my buddy blew out one of his Dynafit bindings the night before, and attempts to MacGyver it back to full functionality were not successful.

Therefore, we opted for the longer, more conservative, route of hiking out. We went from 20 degree temperatures at the hut in the morning to close to 70 degrees at the tail end of the valley. Every couple hundred feet of elevation loss we’d shed a layer, then another, then another. By the end of the trail I had on a t-shirt and shorts drenched in sweat, and some mud-laden ski boots.

After an eight mile jaunt out in ski boots with a full pack, Bariloche quickly sets you straight with good wine and, quite honestly, the best steaks out there. At our farewell dinner the six people and two guides we’d spent the last week sharing meals and life stories with were like longtime friends. We’d come from different countries and achieved varying levels of success, but our shared foundation in skiing immediately leveled the playing field and left the complexities of our home lives behind us. And while we didn’t have the best snow, we caught a few epic lines I won’t soon forget, and had plenty of practice skiing in less than optimal conditions. As we were wrapping up dinner our guide told us Portillo, Chile caught the storm that cut south of us and received three feet of snow, while we battled the wind at Frey and Jacob. I guess I’ll have to put Portillo on the list for our next trip to Patagonia. And next time I’ll remember the toilet paper.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: ....................................................... 23 Melissa Aeschliman—Mt. Adams George Apostolopoulo—Mt. Rainier Jake Bauer—Mt. Rainier Steven Bruckner—Mt. Hood George Burgess—Mt. Adams Rex Burkholder—Mt. Shuksan Emily Carino—Mt. St. Helens Ellann Cohen—Mt. St. Helens Fiona Connors—Mt. St. Helens Mattie Courtright—Mt. Adams Tyler Creelan—Mt. St. Helens Ellen Crivella—Mt. St. Helens Sandhyarani Dash—Mt. Thielsen Mike Davis—Mt. St. Helens Joe Earp—South sister Brannon Forrester—Mt. Shasta Chris Gagle—Mt. Thielsen Ann Gibbons—South Sister Dean Gibbons—South Sister Elena Gorger—South Sister Daniel Harris—South Sister Ben Herdrich—Mt. Hood Noah Ives—South Sister Daniel Jaynes—Mt. St. Helens

Doug Johnson—South Sister Matthew Kaplan—Mt. Adams Kade Kovar—Mt. Adams John Lehne—South Sister Jason Leman—Mt. Hood Landon Lim—South Sister Stephen Mauter—Mt. Rainier Melissa McMurphy—Mt. St. Helens James Naughton—Mt. Hood Becky Nelson—Broken Top Susannah Nelson—South Sister Blanka Nyvlt—South Sister Bobby O’Ryan—Broken Top Daniel Ostersmith—Mt. Adams Jim Owens—Mt. St. Helens Heidi Perry—Mt. St. Helens Jerome Poncet—Mt. Hood Thomas Roper—Mt. Hood Rebecca Ross—Mt. St. Helens Ryan Schademan—Mt. Hood Kristen Schmiedeskam—South Sister Jeff Wagner—Middle Sister Wendall Wich—Mt. St. Helens Heather Wiedenhoft—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements: ..........................................................3

James Allison (2004), Mimi Harmer-Cogswell (2001), Kalin Lee (2006), Lucas Levin (2011), Tara Middlewood (2013), Erik Tandberg (1998), Michael Tippie (2013)

Deceased: ..................................................................4

Neale Creamer (1982), Kenneth Hayes (2000), Helen Mills (1949), Karen Wedeking (1970)Lucas Levin (2011), Tara Middlewood (2013), Erik Tandberg (1998), Michael Tippie (2013)

Total Membership: Dec. 2016—3,249; Dec. 2015—3,223

Stay Connected ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas. blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl. com/MazamasAds for details.

FEBRUARY 2017 35

TRAIL TRIPS

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HIKING

HK B2 Feb 01 (Wed) BanksVernonia Trail—Tophill to Trestle Tony Spiering 503-680-8112 Hike on Banks- Vernonia Linear trail.

Woodsy views along old Rail road grade. Dress for the weather and let’s get moving. 11.5 mi. 400 Ft. Drive 40 Target/185th 8 a.m.

and dress for the weather. 6 mi. 500 Ft. Drive 0 none 9 a.m.

STREET RAMBLES

SS Feb 05 (Sun) Trillium Lake Susan Koch 971-678-3446 Wilderness—Limited 12. We'll get an early start and plan to park in Government Camp. The trail through the trees will take us around Trillium Lake. Weather permitting, we should have a nice view of Mt. Hood. Pace will be easy to moderate.

Call or text leader to sign up 6 mi.

800 Ft. Drive 100 SnoPark Gateway 7 a.m. (MH)

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

HK A2 Feb 04 (Sat) "Providence Park Max to Willamette Stone SP Urban Hike William OBrien 503-679-5194 or woxxbobr123@ yahoxxo.com. This is an urban hike that transitions from the busy commercial/residential NW Portland neighborhoods to the Cumberland/Wildwood trails then to the Audubon Center. From there up the quiet Portland West Hills to Skyline Blvd and lastly to a small, remote Oregon State Park dedicated to early surveying history in Oregon.

7 mi. 900 Ft. Drive 0 Providence Park Westbound Max stop 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 04 (Sat) Kings Mountain Sherry Bourdin 503-314 2911 This is a great winter hike that promises a strenuous, but short, workout and awesome summit views (weather permitting). Micro spikes should be in your pack and, of course, be prepared for all kinds of weather. Call leader for details. 5.4 mi. 2,780 Ft. Drive 66 Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) NS Feb 04 (Sat) Pocket Creek Loop Wayne Lincoln 503-758-0421 Wilderness—Limited 12. Crosscountry ski around Tea Cup (we do not enter the Tea Cup ski area).

Route is from Robin Hood Snow Park, past Tea Cup, and around Tea Cup Lake, trail under Bennett Pass and return on Forest Road 3540.

Please register with leader 8 mi. 800 Ft. Drive 120 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Feb 05 (Sun) Alameda Ridge Paul Steger paulsteger612@ gmail.com Urban hike up and down Alameda Ridge in NE Portland, including some stairs. Meet in front of Starbucks at NE Fremont & NE 15th. Wear comfortable boots/shoes 36 MAZAMAS

HK A2 Feb 08 (Wed) Aldrich ButteCedar Falls Loop Gary Riggs gary. riggs@outlook.com In addition to the great view from Aldrich Butte, this hike explores a little known section of the Gorge between Table Mountain and Hamilton Mountain.

We'll cross Cedar Creek (poles recommended) and hike down to the base of Cedar Falls. 5.8 mi. 1,700 Ft. Drive 84 MMC 8 a.m. (WF,GH) NS Feb 10 (Fri) Old Man Pass Cross Country Ski David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com We will ski the Old Man Pass Loop located north of Carson, Washington. This is a nice 7-mile intermediate crosscountry ski loop for experienced cross-country skiers. Group size is limited to 10. Be sure to dress in layers. Email the leader if you plan to attend. If you need to rent skis, please do so before the day of the ski trip. 7 mi. 500 Ft. Drive 128 SnoPark Fishers Landing Transit Center Vancouver 8 a.m.

HK A2 Feb 11 (Sat) Wahkeena Falls to Devils Rest Dan Smith 971-331-4823 We will hike pass Fairy Falls and hike up to the ridge for great views. Maybe catch sigh of Mount St. Helen's and Mt. Adams?

Poles and traction devices are a must. Dress for cold temperatures and the wind also no cotton. 7.2 miles mi. 2,400 ft. Ft. Drive 44 miles Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)

Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/aym/

HK C2 Feb 11 (Sat) Table Mountain Loop Regis Krug 503704-6442/ regis_krug@mentor. com You must contact the leader to participate in this activity.

Challenging annual winter ascent of Table Mountain via the West Ridge from the Bonneville TH or Gillette Lake. Descent will be via Heartbreak Ridge if there is enough snow cover, otherwise, we'll descend the West Ridge. With clear weather, we should have great views of Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood. Snowshoes and traction devices required. 10 mi. 3,650 Ft. Drive 84 TH Contact leader 7 a.m.

(AR,GH) MU SS Feb 11 (Sat) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com Wilderness—Limited 12. We will head up White River Canyon approximately 2 miles, enjoying the full moon if the weather cooperates.

The pace will be easy to moderate.

Bring poles, extra warm clothes (no cotton), and a headlamp. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. 4 mi. 600 Ft. Drive 110 SnoPark Clackamas P&R Garage 6:30 p.m. Clackamas Town Center Transit Center, 9225 SE Sunnyside Rd. Go up ramp on North end of parking structure, I will be on the left (MH) HK A2.5 Feb 12 (Sun) Little North Santiam Hike Amanda Brown awb5462@truman.edu Enjoy a lovely hike through old growth forest along a beautiful river with emerald pools. This is a mild hike with very little elevation gain. Opal Creek Recreation Area, where the trailhead for this hike is located, tends to get crowded in the summer, so come enjoy it while it's a bit more tranquil.

If there is time or interest, we can stop at one of various breweries or coffee shops in Silverton on the way home. 9 miles mi. 400 feet Ft. Drive 182 TH Sunset Transit Ctr - NE Cor, Hwy26/217 8 a.m. MU NS Feb 12 (Sun) Trillium/ Mud CreekRidge/Lower Ridge Road Loop Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail.com We start at the Trillium Lake SnoPark, ski to Mud Creek Ridge Road, loop around on the Lostman Trail, and return via Lower Ridge Road. Backcountry skis and intermediate skills are appropriate. Please contact leader for a trip description. 10.5 mi. 1,000 Ft. Drive 130 SnoPark Gateway 7 a.m. (AR,MH) HK B2 Feb 15 (Wed) Cook Hill Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn.com It's more of a mountain than a hill and it can really bear the brunt of the gorge east winds. Come prepared with warm clothes, snowshoes, and boot traction. We may be breaking a lot of trail. 7.5 mi. 2,800 Ft. Drive 110 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Feb 18 (Sat) NW Foothills Exploration Sue Brickey 971-5060931 Leader will not be at MMC so carpooling will be decided among participants. You can walk to start from Sunset Transit Center. We will start in front of the closed Albertson's Store in the Peterkort Shopping Center which is where an Orchards Store, Sunrise Bagel, etc. are located at 10860 SW Barnes Road. We will cross Barnes Road and head onto the neighborhood paths, see the location of the old Cedar Mill at the falls, and look for hawks and eagles as we explore the streets connecting neighborhood paths and

wetlands on Portland's NW side. 5+ mi. 500 Ft. Drive 0 MMC 10 a.m. (WF) MU HK B2 Feb 18 (Sat) Hardy Ridge Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@ teleport.com Some of the best views of the gorge. Travel up hill to 2,957 ft. Phlox Point and look down on Hamilton Mountain and east past Table Mountain. Parking requires Discovery Pass. 7 mi. 2,100 Ft. Drive 88 TH Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) HK A2 Feb 19 (Sun) Forest Park Reuel Kurzet rkurzet@comcast.net We'll take the public stairs at 3418 NW Thurman for 101 steps up to NW Aspen, enjoying the neighborhood architecture plus city views on the hilltop at NW Savier. Then we’ll head into the woods at the Aspen and Raleigh trailhead. From there we'll walk along Wildwood Trail to the Alder Trail, down to Leif Erikson Drive, and loop back to our cars on NW Thurman. Reuel Kurzet will be leading her provisional hike, and Rex Breunsbach will be mentoring her. 8:30 a.m. at the MMC or 9 a.m. at NW Thurman at 34th. 6.5 mi. 700 Ft. Drive 14 MMC 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 22 (Wed) Coyote Wall Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com Classic eastern gorge loop hike. We will go up through the labyrinth, have lunch on the top, then back down along the wall. 8.2 mi. 1,950 Ft. Drive 126 TH MMC 8 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Feb 23 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles Mazama Mountaineering Center 503-227-2345. Leave from REI- Pearl (NW 14th & Johnson) starting at 6 p.m. Bring a flashlight/headlamp.

HK B2 Feb 24 (Fri) Cascade Locks to Herman Creek Bridge Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com This is a pleasant hike to several interesting geologic formations. You will get a look at Dry Creek Falls and the Pinnacles, and then continue on to the Herman Creek bridge.

We will stop at the Bridgeside restaurant ( formally the Charburger) for coffee after the hike. 11 mi. 1,000 Ft. Drive 70 Gateway 8 a.m. (GH) MU

HK B2 Feb 25 (Sat) Cape Lookout (lower lot) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com Hike up from the lower parking lot and out to the end of Cape Lookout. There are views south and north. You will be hiking through lush, wet (and muddy) coast forest of Sitka spruce, western hemlock, salal, and large ferns. 10 mi. 1,500 Ft. Drive 144 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

MU SS Feb 25 (Sat) Bennett Pass In and Out Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@ gmail.com We will leave the SnoPark and head south on Bennett Pass Road for approximately 2 miles, enjoying the views along the way. Then begin our trek back with a short detour down one or more of the side roads. Along the way will select a place for lunch. Be prepared for winter snowshoeing conditions. I am listing this as exploratory as I have not traveled this route before. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. 5 mi. 1,100 Ft. Drive 120 SnoPark Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH) HK A1.5 Feb 26 (Sun) Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Brett Nair 503-847-9550 Please join this relatively flat, yet iconic hike past some beautiful water features to a high bridge. Part of the trail involves passing through a narrow section with a drop-off.

There will be cables to hold on to. This area can be slippery as well. Please see the hike description to determine if this hike is something you feel comfortable doing in the weather expected the day the hike occurs. 6.6 mi. 700 Ft. Drive 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m. (WF) HK B2 Feb 26 (Sun) Eagle Creek (CrossOver Falls) (W) Regis Krug 503-704-6442 dkbmnelson@gmail.com Wilderness— Limited 12. Let's explore the amazing assortment of 7 waterfalls of Eagle Creek.

Bring traction devices in case there is ice.

12.6 mi. 1,080 Ft. Drive 74 TH Gateway 7 a.m. (WF,WO) MU

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame.

Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants.

In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

503.684.9698

FEBRUARY 2017 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL

by Mathew Brock The January Mazama Board meeting took place at its new time, 3 p.m., on the afternoon of Tuesday, January 10. Noting a quorum, President Steve Hooker called the meeting to order shortly after 3 p.m.

During the Member Comment period Matt Carter addressed what he believed were failures to follow policy regarding a recent contribution to "Yes on 99 Outdoor School."

Executive Council reviewed the allegations and unanimously determined they were without merit.

A motion was made, and seconded, to accept the minutes from the December meeting. In the membership report, Secretary John Rettig noted that the membership now stands at 3,249. The decline is due to an annual lag in member renewals and reinstatements. The slump in membership, while high, is not out of line for the year over year average. The organization continues to experience steady growth.

Treasurer Jon Jurevic deferred the Treasurer’s Report until the February meeting.

Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications, then gave two brief reports. The IT Project is moving along, and four of five sprints are complete. Sprint five, one of the most complex parts of the system, is beginning and will need substantial testing. Ms. Bradham expects sprint five testing to last until the end of January.

When completed, the IT Project will then move into Phase II, the design of the new system's user interface. In her Marketing and Communication Report, she noted that RFPs for the Marketing Survey have gone out to five local companies. The deadline for submissions is Jan. 13. Ms. Bradham also presented the board a list of talking points summarizing the Mazama Mission and Vision Statements.

President Hooker then initiated a membership revocation hearing for a member who has repeatedly violated the member Disciplinary Policy. Staff and Lodge Management requested revoking the individual's membership due to this violation. Secretary John Rettig noted that he had served proper notice of the hearing to the member, and provided copies of the evidence amassed by staff to the board.

38 MAZAMAS

Upcoming Board Meeting Dates: Feb. 21, March 21, April 18, May 16; All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members.

Neither the member nor a representative was present at the appointed time of 3:30 p.m. for the hearing to respond to the charges or offer a defense. A motion was made and seconded for the revoking of membership effect immediately. All eight board members present unanimously in favor. The outcome of the hearing depends on the vote of the absent board member who will vote electronically.

Marty Hanson then reintroduced Teresa Bright, point person for the Mazama Smith Rock Ranch project, and David Byrne, lead architect on the site design. Mrs. Bright reported on changes to the site design based on feedback from neighbors, collected during the first open house. Mr. Byrne then walked the board through the revised site plan. He noted that it now calls for a total of 34 guests, down from the original 60. The redesign includes 24 campsites, a bed and breakfast with eight beds and housing for two caretakers. The new design reduced the parking footprint to 17 spaces. County fire suppression requirements required the addition of a new well on the property.

Mrs. Bright confirmed that the existing site would need a conditional use permit from the county. Several public meetings could influence the final site plan submitted to the county for review. The Mazamas are hosting a second community meeting on January 14 to gather more feedback from the neighbors.

The Oregon State Parks are hosting a public hearing on the use of the Smith Rock State Park.

During a board discussion about the minimum and maximum time frame for the project, Mrs. Bright noted that the option on the property would expire before the outcome of the county's conditional use permit review. She recommended seeking an extension on the option from the seller. President Hooker requested that, in collaboration with the Mazamas Foundation, Lee begin talks with the property owner on an extension. There was a consensus among the board members that the extended timeline in light of the site redesign, coupled with the impending end of the sale option, was of great concern.

Marty Hanson then introduced Chris Keane of Dangermond Keane architects.

Mr. Keane gave a brief overview of the proposed redesigns to Mazama Lodge and the MMC. The Gray Family Foundation Grant stipulates that changes to the lodge address existing facilities. Plans include replacing the fixtures, improving privacy in the showers, and other improvements to the third-floor bathrooms. Suggested changes to the MMC include enlarging the third-floor conference rooms by removing the upper hallway. Removing all the offices from the main floor and creating a combined “living room” and library space while expanding the climbing walls in the auditorium. Changes to the lower level include expanded office space and reconfiguring the existing storage, meeting rooms, and kitchen to better use the existing space. Mr. Keane noted that the proposed redesigns would make better use of the existing space without requiring extra expansion or construction. He noted that the Mazamas could expect to get another five to ten years out of the building considering the organization's current rate of growth.

The board meeting ended with an abbreviated report from Executive Director Lee Davis. Mr. Davis had attended a meeting in Salem at the State Capital on the creation of a State Office of Outdoor Recreation and was delayed in returning to the MMC. Mr. Davis focused on three potential Fiscal Sponsorship Opportunities currently available to the Mazamas. He explained the pros and cons of all three. Mr. Davis was not requesting any action from the board, only wanting to make them aware of the opportunities. The board expressed interest in one of the opportunities and request that Mr. Davis continue to explore all three and keep them apprised.

President Hooker adjourned the meeting shortly before 6 p.m.

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas. org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one-month delay due to the approval process.

FEBRUARY 2017 39

Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

www.mazamas.org

DOWN FROM

THE MOUNTAIN,

LEAVE THE COLD BEHIND. SEAL OUT DRAFTS & SAVE ENERGY WITH THERMAL WINDOW INSERTS.

Keep the warmth inside. indowwindows.com

|

503.822.3805