Jack Grauer

SAYING GOODBYE

JACK GRAUER

August 26, 1920–January 29, 2022

John “Jack” Grauer on stage during the 1978 Mazama Annual Banquet.

Jack Grauer in 1963, 1995, and 2021.

by Doug Couch and Katie Mayfield

Jack Grauer joined the Mazamas in August of 1947 at 27 years of age. A veteran of World War II, Jack joined the Mazamas because we had a skiing program. Skiing remained Jack’s primary sport until 1954 when, to quote him, he “developed a raging case of ‘climbing fever’ that never did subside.” He led his first climb in 1954 on Mt. Constance in the Olympics. The next year he led a Mt. Hood climb with 34 climbers starting and 31 reaching the summit. In 1956, he was elected to both the Climbing Committee and the Executive Council.

Beginning with his first climb lead in 1954 to his final lead in 1994, Jack led an incredible 115 successful summits. In the process, he called upon over 70 different assistant climb leaders. Many of those men and women went on to carve their own climbing legacies, such as his nimble assistant on the Exum route of the Grand Teton in 1972, Ray Sheldon, and five-time Mazama president Christine Mackert, who assisted Jack on many peaks. His final lead was on Mount St. Helens in 1994, assisted by Joe Stafford.

A fervent explorer, Jack pioneered new instructional areas for the Mazama climbing schools. Those of us who have done our BCEP sessions at Horsethief Butte can thank Jack, who discovered the climbing possibilities of the formation and began using it for rock practice.

Jack also proved his tenacity in 1958 when the second Mazama Lodge burned down. Jack led the charge to raise funds and rebuild. In recognition of his efforts guiding the reconstruction in one year, the Mazamas awarded him the Parker Cup in 1960. The Mazama Annual that year relates, “this was a task which called for all of his resources of tact, understanding, physical and mental drive, ability for hard work, purchasing ability, mechanical ability, ability to work with others, ability to get the most out of volunteer laborers and the most out of the materials at hand.”

The Mazamas then elected him to another term on the Executive Council in 1961 and president in 1963. He went on to serve on the Executive Council from 1970 to 1972, 1987 to 1989, and a final term spanning 1994 to 1997.

A leader in the mountains, at the construction site, and in the boardroom, Jack also initiated many efforts to document and preserve the legacy of our organization and our region. He wrote many Mazama histories, including a "History of Mazama Climbing Schools" in 1964 and "Mazama Centennial–An Overview," looking back on 100 years of the Mazamas in 1994. For many years Jack edited the Mazama Annual and was an active member of the Publications Committee for decades, contributing articles and regular segments like “Time Warp” to the Mazama Bulletin. He shared decades of his adventures in the Bulletin and the Annual.

His book Mount Hood, A Complete History has been in publication through many editions since it was first published in 1975. For this thoroughly researched and immensely useful book, Jack received the Margaret Redman Cup in 1992. Now in its eleventh edition, this book remains the goto resource for those seeking to learn about our nearest mountain.

Jack received one final award in tribute to his decades of contributions to the Mazamas and to our sport. In 2013 he was named an Honorary Member, joining an elite company that includes explorers, climbing innovators, scientists, and former President Theodore Roosevelt.

His passing closes a long chapter in Mazama history. All of us who knew him feel this loss.