2021 September/October Mazama Bulletin

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 1

We are hikers on remote trails. We are alpinists navigating rock and snow. We are pioneers on hostile summits. We span seven continents and a thousand landscapes but our intent is the same.

For every trail, for every mountain, for every moment. We are Explorers. # WeAreRab

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W W W .RA B .EQ U IPMENT

MAZAMA BULLETIN

IN THIS ISSUE A Statement on Affinity Groups, p. 6 Mazama Membership, p. 8 Staff Changes, p. 9 Mazama Wild, p. 10 Mazama Trail Trips, p. 13 Mazama Classics, p. 13 Upcoming Events, Activities, and Courses, p. 15 Teaming up for Inclusive Sizing, p. 16 Three Autumn Trips in Mt. Rainier National Park, p. 20 What’s Going on with First Aid at the Mazamas?, p. 24 Marianne Sinclair Kearney, p. 26 Mazama Library, p. 28 Resorting to Plan B, p. 30 Book Reviews, p. 32 What’s Happening Around the Mazamas, p. 33 Successful Climbers, p. 34 Executive Board Minutes, p. 36

Volume 103 Number 5 September /October 2021

CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org

Hours: Monday–Thursday, 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028

Phone: 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thursday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–10 p.m., Monday, 9 a.m.–Noon.

Publications Team Editors: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor; Mathew Brock, Layout Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF SARAH BRADHAM, Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

KATHERINE ROSE Volunteer & Committee Coordinator katherinerose@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Cover: Maryn Bonniwell approaching the crux of the West Ridge on Forbidden Peak, North Cascades National Park. Photo: Michal Podhradsky.

Above: New Member Annalisha Cox on the summit of Broken Top, July 18, 2020.

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 3

Acting Executive Director’s Report

OUR MAZAMA COMMUNITY

by Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director

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ithin the Mazamas we talk a lot about community—the Mazama community, the mountain community, serving our community, being good community members. But what does it mean to be a community, and more importantly, to be a good member of that community?

The word community has several different meanings, but for the Mazamas, our community is a collective of people united around our shared love of the mountain environment. Within our programs and activities, we create camaraderie and mutual respect that fosters a sense of this shared unity. As a nonprofit organization, we aim to serve our broader society through our more outwardly focused endeavours such as our stewardship and advocacy work, grant opportunities, and youth programs.

With this understanding of community, what does it mean to be a good member within our community? And what does a healthy Mazama community look like?

Our core values at the Mazamas are safety, education, volunteerism, community, competence, credibility, stewardship, and respect. As a longtime member, volunteer, and employee these values have always been important to me. However, through some recent conversation with members, I’m not sure these values are widely known amongst our organization. Are they familiar to you? If so, do you believe these values are practiced here?

Let’s look closely at that last one and talk a bit about what it means. The full statement under respect is “we believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.”

What does that value look like when in full effect? The Mazama Volunteer Agreement, which is required for all

Mazama volunteers, has the following points under respect: • Treat all individuals I encounter through the Mazamas with a sense of dignity, respect, and worth • Be considerate of how my actions and words affect those with whom I am in contact • Respect each individual’s rights • Understand that discrimination or harassment towards any fellow volunteer or participant is not acceptable • Report immediately to Mazama staff if I witness or experience acts of discrimination or harassment While this agreement is only required for Mazama volunteers, if we hold all Mazamas to these behaviors, we can create a welcoming, inclusive, and safe environment. As an individual, you have the power to manage your own behavior and interactions in accordance with these values. Each individual also has the power to interrupt or report behaviors that are not in alignment with our value of respect.

When we call attention to behavior enacted in discord with our values, reporting that behavior if need be, we can collectively help everyone within the Mazamas feel safe and supported.

You may not know that we have an online form to report problem behavior, management misconduct, harassment, sexual harassment, or sexual assault.

You can find this form on our website at mazamas.org/behavioralincidentreport.

This form was created several years ago to ensure that avenues existed for individuals

to quickly and easily report issues. We do not condone or tolerate harassment in connection with any of our programs or activities, and we are committed to acting on all reports that are filed.

This is a good time to revisit the #SafeOutside survey on Sexual Harassment and Sexual Assault (SHSA) in Climbing that we shared with our members three years ago. That survey was shared broadly in the community and had a sample size of 5,311 (49 percent men, 48 percent women, 3 percent prefer not to say/nonbinary). The average respondent had been climbing for 10 years. The survey data showed that 47 percent of women and 16 percent of men had experienced SHSA defined behaviors during climbing activities. As a result of these experiences, the survey respondents reported that after experiencing SHSA they changed how they engaged with the climbing community in three primary ways: Disengagement from the climbing community, reduction or elimination of travel for climbing purposes, limiting climbing activities to specific groups of people.* We learned, through anonymous data sent to us from this survey, that individuals within the Mazama community had experienced SHSA within our programs, but were not comfortable reporting their experience to the Mazamas. As a result of the #SafeOutside work, the Mazamas developed the form previously mentioned.

We also developed a training, Safe Outside Online Training: Preventing Sexual Harassment and Assault, to help build a safer community. This training provides

*Source: Sexual Harassment and Sexual Assault in the Climbing Community by Charlie Lieu, MS, MBA and Callie Marie Rennison, PhD. Link available at: https://americanalpineclub.org/safeoutside/ 4 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA VALUES SAFETY

context on why preventing SHSA is so important, tools to prevent SHSA from happening, and teaches participants how to better support victims. We offer these training sessions every other month, and can increase our offerings if the demand exceeds the available spaces. The next session is on October 21 from 6:30–8 p.m. on Zoom; sign up at tinyurl.com/MazSHSAOctober.

Currently, we have policies and procedures in place to manage poor behavior, harassment, and SHSA within the context of Mazama programs. But in order to manage these issues through our policies, we need them to be reported.

That means we need all of you to be a part of the solution.

Our hope is that by continuing to talk about these issues, to offer training opportunities, and to share our reporting mechanisms and policies, we will foster a sense of openness and comfort to interrupt or report problem behavior within the Mazamas. This will allow us to eliminate such behaviors through training or removal, which will create a safer community for everyone.

Thank you for being a part of our community, Sarah Bradham

INCIDENT REPORTING

The Mazamas strives to create an inclusive and welcoming environment across all of our programs and activities. We do not condone or tolerate harassment in connection with any of its programs or activities. The Mazamas is committed to maintaining an environment of respect for its members and others who participate in its activities, free of harassment of any kind including harassment based on sex, race, national origin, religion, age, disability, sexual orientation, or other factors, which do not affect the safety of the participants in Mazamas activities. If you experience problem behavior, harassment, sexual harassment, or sexual assault, or are want to report management misconduct, please go to mazamas.org/ behavioralincidentreport to file a complaint. We take all complaints seriously and will follow up with anyone who files a report.

We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

EDUCATION We believe training, experience and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

VOLUNTEERISM We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

COMMUNITY We believe camaraderie, friendship and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

COMPETENCE We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities and judgment required of their roles.

CREDIBILITY We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

STEWARDSHIP We believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

RESPECT We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 5

A STATEMENT ON AFFINITY GROUPS

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ver a 24 hour period between August 5–6, 2021 there was activity on Mazama social media that led to the temporary suspension of two individuals from our Facebook forum due to violations of the written forum guidelines.

The Executive Council, Climbing Committee, and Acting Executive Director feel it is important to state, in no uncertain terms, that we actively encourage, fully support, and endorse the creation of affinity groups and safe spaces for historically underrepresented and marginalized groups at the Mazamas.

There have been women's only groups in BCEP and for climbs on and off for the last 50 years, and in recent years there have been LGBTQ, BIPOC, and Substance Free groups as well as climbs and activities for those groups. These spaces are absolutely critical to working towards building a welcoming and inclusive environment at the Mazamas for everyone who loves the mountains, but who may have felt unsafe and/or unwelcome without those groups.

We know that we have a long way to go towards building that environment, and these affinity groups are the first step.

We wholeheartedly reject the concept of reverse discrimination, and do not support accusations that affinity groups are akin to discrimination. Rather, affinity groups are working to undo the structural racism and exclusion that has existed within the outdoor industry since its inception.

The Mazamas has work to do towards being a welcoming and inclusive space for all. We acknowledge that fact and will continue to work to create spaces for people of diverse backgrounds to participate in our organization. This includes working to support the affinity groups we have and the creation of additional affinity groups as desired, reviewing our policies & procedures for problematic language and practices, and doing our best to listen and hear the concerns of our membership and the community.

We thank all of you for being Mazama members and for taking the time to read and process this statement.

Executive Council Climbing Committee Acting Executive Director

MAZAMA AFFINITY GROUPS

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he Mazamas strives to provide safe spaces for specific groups of people to meet and support each other as well as to foster a greater sense of community within the Mazamas. We know that while the mountain community is a safe and welcoming space for many people, it isn't always so for people who are underrepresented in our industry, organization, and leadership. Having affinity space is a crucial part of moving towards a truly inclusive community. Here is a list of the current affinity groups at the Mazamas.

■ Mazama Classics is for individuals who have been members for 25 years or more. Classics Events are designed for Mazama Members with 25 years or more of membership. Classics offer a variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. You'll have the opportunity to share years of happy Mazama memories with the Classics Group. All ages are welcome to join the fun!

■ Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers activities targeted to those in their 20s and 30s and anyone young at heart. All activities are open to everyone, regardless of age. If you join an

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AYM event you can expect great leaders, awesome locations, and overall, a ton of FUN! ■ Melanated Mazamas is the new Mazama group for Black, Indigenous, Brown, People of Color, and/or folks who are from the global majority. The Melanated Mazamas is a community for folks to gather, support, and adventure together. This is a BIPOC-only space. We appreciate white allies, but ask that white folks respect this space created specifically for the Mazamas BIPOC community. Interested in joining? Contact melanated@ mazamas.org.

YOUR VOTE IS YOUR VOICE!

MAZAMA ANNUAL MEETING

VOTING ENDS OCTOBER 4 AT 5 P.M.

OCTOBER 4 | 6–7:30 P.M. ON ZOOM (ONLINE)

T

he end of the annual election for the Mazama Executive Council is coming up fast. The deadline to cast a vote is October 4, at 5 p.m.

During these tumultuous times, with so much change affecting all aspects of our lives, a strong Executive Council is quite possibly more important now than ever before. Our path forward is challenging: we are again in a leadership transition, and COVID-19 is continuing to have a tremendous impact on the organization and our budget.

YOUR VOTE MATTERS

Please take some time to review EC candidate biographies and statements. When you vote and make your voice heard you are sending a message about your passion for the Mazamas and helping to ensure another 127 years of climbing, hiking, and inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE CANDIDATES

You will also be selecting your Nominating Committee members. These are the folks who carefully seek and vet candidates who can offer the unique blend of experience and skills to meet the current needs of the organization.

Even though there is only one candidate listed and she will automatically move into the position on the Nominating Committee, please do take the time to show your support for her candidacy and appreciation by selecting her.

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he Mazama Annual Meeting will look a little different this year as we continue to navigate through COVID. Due to the current rising cases of COVID and the Delta variant, the Annual Meeting will once again be fully online.

The meeting will include reports from Executive Council, staff, committees, a few program updates, and the announcement of the election results.

To sign up, go to tinyurl.com/MazAnnualMeeting2021 Reminder: If you are a Mazama Executive Council Candidate, please plan to attend the meeting as the October Executive Council meeting will begin at the conclusion of the Annual Meeting.

COVID-19 UPDATE Cases of COVID-19 in our area continue to climb and our medical services are being significantly stressed. As we restart indoor programming at the Mazamas, we want to ensure we act as good community members and in line with Mazama values to limit the spread of COVID-19. To this end, and in conjunction with the FDA approval of the Pfizer COVID-19 vaccine, we are instituting a policy that anyone age 12 or older must be vaccinated for COVID-19 to participate in INDOOR programming at the Mazamas or Mazama Lodge. You can read the full policy at mazamas.org/covid.

Oregon Governor Kate Brown has issued new requirements for masks starting August 27. Masks are now required outdoors when individuals from different households cannot maintain physical distance. This does not apply to brief encounters such as passing people on a trail.

You can review our full COVID policies at mazamas.org/covid.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 7

MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP JUNE JULY Membership Report Membership Report NEW MEMBERS: 21 Mark Bauer–Mount St. Helens Susan Bissonnette–Mount St. Helens Douglas de Weese–Mount St. Helens Jaime Fantauzzi–Mount St. Helens William Ficek–Mt. Adams Joshua Friend–Mt. Hood George Fussell–Mt. Hood Sohaib Haider–Mt. Hood Kari Henderson–Mount St. Helens Evan Hjelmstad–Middle Sister Elizabeth Kruse–South Sister Joaquin Menendez–Mt. Shasta Dean Perez–Mt. Rainier Atalanta Powell–Mt. Hood Charley Rankin–Mt. Shasta Hakon Rozell–Broken Top Caleb Schott–Mt. Adams Storm Siegel–Mt. Hood Eric Snell–Mount St. Helens Christopher Weaver–Longs Peak (CO) Chris Winans–Mt. Thielsen REINSTATEMENTS: 10 DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON JUNE 30: 2,768 (2021); 3,106 (2020)

NEW MEMBERS: 25 Benjamin Buckingham–Mount St. Helens Annalisha Cox–Broken Top Catherine Erickson–Longs Peak Forest Fogarty–Old Snowy Mountain Sonia Gallagher–Old Snowy Mountain Denise Hartzell–Mt. Adams Steve Hathaway–Mount St. Helens Elisa Jordan–Mt. Adams Namratha Kashi–Mount St. Helens Mattison Konchalski–South Sister Edward Kowalski–Mt Barrill Andrew Lynch–Mount St. Helens James Moak–South Sister Michael Mongerson–Mount St. Helens Greg Mylet–Mt. Hood Chad Nasr–Mount St. Helens Scott Nelson–South Sister Myles O’Mara–Mount St. Helens Mahesh Padaru–Mount St. Helens Dolores Rincon–Mt. Hood David Row–Mount St. Helens Jessemin Sheyda-Losick–Mt. Hood David Stormo–Mount St. Helens Sonya Templeton–Mt. Hood Anna Withington–South Sister REINSTATEMENTS: 3 DECEASED: 2 Phyllis Rae Davis, Francis Lee Ellmers MEMBERSHIP ON JULY 31: 2,775 (2021); 3,129 (2020)

Top: Elizabeth Kruse on the summit of South Sister, July 18, 2015.

Middle Right: Greg Mylet on the summit of Mt. Hood, March 3, 2019.

Middle Left: James Moke on the summit of South Sister, November 11, 2020 Bottom: William Ficek on the summit of Mt. Adams, May 23, 2021.

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MAZAMA STAFF CHANGES KATHERINE ROSE VOLUNTEER & COMMITTEE COORDINATOR

Katherine Rose joined our team as our Volunteer & Committee Coordinator on August 9. Her first few weeks were spent getting to know volunteers, meeting with committee chairs, and learning about the inner workings of the Mazamas. Katherine is excited to get to work and is especially looking forward to planning our next Volunteer Appreciation Night!

Katherine comes to the Mazamas with eight years of experience in conservation and outdoor recreation. Originally from a rural setting on the Oregon coast, Katherine feels at home spending time outside observing the landscape around her.

Katherine has built backcountry hiking trails in the Adirondack and Appalachian Mountains, implemented farming education in Colorado, and coordinated education for a watershed council in Eastern Oregon. More recently, Katherine has called Portland home, working with Portland Parks & Recreation performing natural area restoration, trail work projects, engaging volunteers in stewardship programing, and teens in workforce development.

As an environmental and urban studies major with a concentration in anthropology, Katherine focused her studies at Bard College on sustainable outdoor recreation. She strives to support opportunities for connection between people and the outdoors, while removing barriers which have historically limited folks from recreationally having access to the outdoors. Katherine is excited to bring a passion for equity and inclusion into her work with Mazamas and share in her love for the mountains.

During her free time, Katherine can be found gardening, dancing, playing music, canoeing, skateboarding, playing with her dog, skiing, and hiking!

Mazama party on Unicorn Peak, Tatoosh Range. Photo: Dyanne Foster.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 9

MAZAMA WILD

by Zane Davidson & Monika Lockett, Mazama Wild Camp Managers

T

he deer emerges from behind a tree and sneaks towards the water source, Dixie cup in hand. As the cup is dipped, an opportunistic wolf—freshly graduated from 2nd grade—sprints forward towards a potential waterside meal, and the chase is on! Mazama Wild, the Mazama summer camp youth program, wrapped up on August 13 after nine weeks of camp.

With weekly rosters filling up within a single week in March and continuing to fill once capacities were increased, it was apparent that after a year and a half of pandemics and shutdowns that kids were more than ready to get back outside! With games like Hunters vs. Prey, campers ages 5–10 learned environmental science topics and developed a deeper appreciation of the outdoors through hands-on experiences.

Starting as a supplement to Portland Public Schools’ Outdoor School called Adventure WILD, then transitioning to an official Mazama program in 2017, Mazama Wild has quickly become one of the best-known summer youth camps in the Portland area. Being a name is one thing, but what does Mazama Wild do for an organization like ours?

Beyond the activities and lessons that Mazama Wild staff provide to campers, they also strive to strengthen our community­—both as a service to our members and the greater community.

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By reaching out to families and younger generations, the program and staff have built long-term relationships. Many Mazama members bring their children to camp knowing that they are immersing them in the same community they are a part of, encouraging multi-generational interest and membership. New Mazama families have been similarly emerging from the mix—parents who send their kids to summer camp then find themselves motivated to join the organization.

All that relationship building is helping to increase the diversity of our organization. It’s well known that outdoor recreation and many environmentallyrelated fields have not been represented in our country as a whole. Mazama Wild aims to expand outdoor education for our members and community by being welcoming, offering low tuition, providing scholarships, and having a diverse staff.

Indeed, they are big goals, yet ones our community members, both old and new,

thrive on. But what does Mazama Wild look like up close? What have the kids been doing daily?

Campers arrive each week to a camp with an overarching theme that flavors the tone of its activities. During Creatures & Conservation week, a group may have a presentation on evolutionary adaptations, for example, while during Plants & Pollinators week, the campers may observe bees, then run a relay race that mimics their food-gathering methods. Whether an involved project or a game like Hunters vs. Prey that turns learning ecology into a physical challenge, education gets “summer-camp-ified” at the Mazamas.

And would any self-respecting Mazama program be complete without climbing? Twice a week, campers are facilitated by staff and our much-beloved belay volunteers to climb the walls at the Mountaineering Center. Often a highlight for campers, some return weekly to improve their skills and deepen their

“This was our first summer at Mazama Wild and we were SO impressed. Our daughter had a wonderful time.

The staff were incredible—every person we interacted with seemed so mature, kind, caring, and competent.

You do an excellent job hiring and training staff. We can’t wait to come back next year and get involved with Mazama programs throughout the year.”

—Mazama Wild parent Mazama Wild followed organizational COVID protocols with masks, social distancing for the unvaccinated, and considerable time outside. When the State of Oregon tightened guidelines in mid-July, all staff and participants switched to wearing masks indoors regardless of vaccination status.

There were no reported cases of COVID-19 or severe sickness during the program.

2021 MAZAMA WILD BY THE NUMBERS ■ Weeks of camp: 9 ■ Average campers per week: 43 ■ Total campers: 484 ■ MMC rockwall sessions: 18 ■ MMC volunteer hours: 250 ■ Average waitlist per week: 51 ■ Total waitlisted campers: 366 ■ Guest presentations: 4 ■ Camp counselors: 7 ■ Camp interns: 5 ■ Camp managers: 2 interests. Yet, for many, it is their first experience with rock climbing. As many parents can attest, once the trepidation has passed and confidence has been gained, their campers can’t wait to come back and try again!

In addition to continuing Mazama Wild camp traditions, the 2021 summer has been one of innovation, with seasonal staff bringing fresh new ideas and methods to our curriculum. Counselors introduced camouflage and stealth activities to show animal relationships with their environments and each other. New crafts have inspired younger campers to think of plants as multi-purpose resources.

Campers explored physics and chemistry in experiments and projects designed in ways not confined to indoor labs. It has been

amazing to see how the counselors turn everyday camp fun into “secret learning” from week to week!

What lies on the horizon for Mazama Wild Camps and other youth programs at Mazamas? With just a bit of luck, we’ll come out of our current pandemic times, and with it, we’ll have more opportunity for outreach and adventure. We’ll be able to make a return to the Mazama Lodge on Mt. Hood. We’ll be able to take advantage of other excellent natural destinations within the greater Portland area. And, perhaps most importantly, we’ll once again be able to reach out to the many communities, schools, and other organizations to foster and strengthen interest in outdoor recreation and conservation.

The deer may be caught, the wolf may be well-fed, but the season always brings new lessons and growth. Youth programs are a vital part of our own ecosystem, and may they ever continue to thrive and connect others to the love of mountains.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 11

HISTORICAL COLLECTION PRINTS NOW ON SALE! Are you looking for new artwork for your walls? Looking for a unique gift for a climbing friend or loved one? Do you want to jump start your holiday shopping?

The Mazama Library and Historical Collection recently launched an online storefront where you can buy reprints of images from our collection. Prints are available in three sizes, are printed on archival paper, and proceeds help support the Mazama Library.

Order today at tinyurl.com/LHCimages

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MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS

MAZAMA CLASSICS

Go to mazamas.org/hike to see the upcoming hikes on our calendar.

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

Please review the Mazama organizational COVID-19 policies prior to signing up for a hike at mazamas.org/ covid, and plan to adhere to all policies during any Mazama activity.

HK 1.5 Sept. 7 Tillamook Visitor Center. Flora Huber.

6 mi., 800 ft. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Sept. 14 Dog Creek. Flora Huber. 6 mi., 500 ft.

Meet at Lewis & Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Sept. 21 Ridgefield. Flora Huber.4 mi., 200 ft.

Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Sept. 28 Herman Creek to the Pinnacles.

Flora Huber. 5 mi., 300 ft. Meet at Lewis & Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Oct. 5 Horsetail & Oneonta . Flora Huber. 4 mi., 500 ft. Meet at Lewis & Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Oct. 12 Dry Creek Falls . Flora Huber. 5.4 mi., 300 ft.

Meet at Lewis & Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK 1.5 Oct. 19 Cascade Locks to Eagle Creek Fish Hatchery . Flora Huber. 4 mi., 200 ft. Meet at Lewis & Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions.

Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair, Flora Huber, at 503-658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete.

More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

CLASSICS HIKES All of Flora Huber’s hikes, see the column to the left, are geared to Classics.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

FALL CLASSICS LUNCHEON DATE: SEPTEMBER 3 | 11:30 P.M. | MAZAMA LODGE

On Friday, September 3, the Classics Committee will hold our traditional fall luncheon at Mazama Lodge. Doors open at 11:30 a.m., with lunch at noon. Because of continuing concern about Covid-19, only fully vaccinated members and guests are invited to attend. Please reserve a spot by emailing classics@ mazamas.org.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 13

MEMBER ACHIEVEMENT

JOIN THE MAZAMAS ARE YOU READY TO BECOME A MAZAMA MEMBER? IF YOU HAVE SUMMITTED A GLACIATED PEAK AT ANY TIME IN YOUR LIFE, YOU ARE READY! GO TO MAZAMAS. ORG/JOIN AND SIGN UP.

EDUCATION ADVOCACY COMMUNITY BUILDING

Mt. Rainier. Photo: Bob Breivogel

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he Rainier 100 is a Mountaineers list of 100 climbs and scrambles of peaks in and around Mount Rainier National Park. The current list was formalized in or about 2012.

To date there are 25 climbers who have summited all of the peaks therein.

In early August, Doug Wilson, Mazama climb leader, past Mazama Executive Council President, and Honorary Member, became the 25th person, and first Mazama, to complete the Rainier 100. Having begun climbing in 1984, Doug had already climbed 11 of these peaks by the time he first heard of the list, in 2012. In the ensuing nine years, through a combination of 39 official Mazama climbs, plus numerous private climbs and solo trips, he was able to complete the full list. Doug figures he hiked and climbed 762 miles with 245,500 feet of elevation gain plus 60 miles of bicycling to accomplish this feat.

Learn more at tinyurl.com/Rainier100

What does it mean to join the Mazamas? As a member, you are part of one of the most respected mountaineering and outdoor organizations in the country. Our members are passionate outdoor individuals who are dedicated to our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains.

The Mazamas and its members work towards our mission through education, advocacy, and community building.

AS A MEMBER YOU WILL: • Meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors.

• Contribute towards scholarships that get underserved populations outdoors.

• Enjoy discounted rates on Mazama activities and discounts at local outdoor retailers and gyms.

• Receive our bi-monthly Mazama Bulletin magazine.

• Join the American Alpine Club (AAC) at a reduced rate (once you join you will receive a code to use on the AAC website).

• Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume Mazama Mountaineering Library.

• Receive free rescue insurance anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters and up to $10,000 ($5,000 with Mazama membership; $10,000 with joint AAC membership).

• Volunteer! You can join our team and lead trips, classes, and other activities.

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UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS HEARTSAVER CPR AED

CLASSICS LUNCHEON

■ Class dates: October 6, November 3, January 5, or February 2, 2022 ■ Application Opens: September 1 ■ Prerequisites: See website for details.

Adult CPR & AED through The American Heart Association (AHA). The course is a blend of online course work first, and then practice/skills test CPR class at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center (MMC).

For more information go to mazamas.org/cpr.

■ Date: September 3 ■ Location: Mazama Lodge Doors open at 11:30 a.m., with lunch at noon. Because of continuing concern about COVID, only fully vaccinated members and guests are invited to attend. All individuals will be required to wear masks indoors when not eating. Please reserve a spot by emailing: classics@mazamas.org.

HEARTSAVER FIRST AID/ CPR AED

■ Class date: October 18, 2021 or January 17, 2022 ■ Application Opens: December 13, 2021 ■ Prerequisites: See website for details.

The Heartsaver® ‘First Aid/CPR AED’ (previously named Hike Leader First Aid &CPR) course is designed to prepare students to provide first aid, perform CPR and use an automated external defibrillator (AED) in a safe, timely, and effective manner. This is a blended-learning course - you will be completing coursework online and participating in an in-person skills test at the MMC. For more information go to mazamas.org/cpr.

WILDERNESS FIRST AID ■ Class dates: October 15 or November 6 ■ Application Opens: September 7 ■ Prerequisites: See website for details.

The Mazamas Wilderness First Aid (WFA) course, provided in collaboration with Base Medical, will teach students critical skills for providing basic first aid in the backcountry. Students will learn the foundations of determining scene safety, patient assessment, and identifying common injuries and illness. The course will develop basic first aid knowledge and skills, with a focus on stabilizing and managing a patient in a wilderness setting, where higher levels of care are often hours away. For more information go to mazamas.org/wfa

ADVANCED ROCK

■ Class dates: February 22–May 19, 2022 ■ Application Opens: November 30 ■ Prerequisites: See website for details.

The mission for the Mazama Advanced Rock Course: “We Teach Trad.” This course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes. There is a focus on gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, rock rescue, mental and physical preparation, and planning and execution. You’ll have the opportunity to meet new and experienced rock climbers, to learn about climbing areas and destinations, and be involved in a supportive group that will enable the learning of new skills, growth, and challenge through climbing. More information at tinyurl.com/AdvRock2022.

MOUNTAIN FIRST AID SKILL BUILDER ■ Class date: November 7 ■ Application Opens: September 7 ■ Prerequisites: See website for details.

A 30-hour course that is designed to teach the first-aider how to apply first aid skills in the wilderness, perform advanced patient assessment, improvise equipment and cope with wilderness-specific conditions. It will introduce you to caring for people who become ill or injured far from definitive medical care. Emphasis is placed on long term patient care management and specific injury evaluation.

NORDIC SKI SCHOOL

■ Dates: January 12–February 17, 2022 ■ Application Opens: November 23 We offer traditional cross-country skiing from beginning (never been on skis) to advanced (Nordic Backcountry) This year we are also offering a Skate skiing class.

Matching students’ skills to the appropriate class helps to ensure a safe and fun learning experience. Please consider your current skills when choosing your class, including: endurance, how balanced and stable you feel on skis, number of miles you ski and terrain you are able to ski comfortably.

(Skill level criteria for each class can be found on the Nordic Education web page.)

More information at tinyurl.com/Nordic2022

CLIMBS WITH SPACE ■ Mt. Pugh, West Ridge ■ Mt. Pilchuck, Bathtub Lakes ■ Mt. Washington, North Ridge ■ Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats ■ Thompson Peak, South Couloir (Idaho) ■ Broken Top Climb (double header w/ South Sister) ■ South Sister Climb (double header w/ Broken Top) ■ Mt. Stone, West Ridge Check out all the climbs with space available here: tinyurl.com/ MazOpenClimbs

STREET RAMBLES ■ Every Tuesday & Thursday!

Going on a street ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and maybe plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never get to see otherwise. Interested in joining us?

Read our FAQs below. All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We’ll see you there! More info at mazamas.org/streetrambles/

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 15

TEAMING UP FOR INCLUSIVE SIZING

by Ali Gray

M

egan Banker and Rochelle Murphy, both Mazamas, are two of six advisors working with gear and apparel brand Outdoor Research (OR) on a new product line. The line will feature technical outdoor gear in inclusive sizing: XS–3XL in fall 2021, followed by 1X–3X and 16W–24W in spring 2022. Our interview with Megan and Rochelle discusses the need for inclusive sizing in the outdoor industry and their involvement with the project.

Tell us a little about yourselves. How did you first get interested in the outdoors?

What's the main way or reason you get outside now?

Megan Banker: Hey! I’m 32 years old and grew up in Central California. I used to go car camping with my family growing up, but never actually did much hiking or other outdoor adventuring. I moved to Portland from Dallas, Texas, after grad school and joined Meetup to find people to hike with. I met some wonderful women through a women’s hiking meetup and went on a midnight climb of Mount St. Helens.

After that I was hooked! Getting outside now is a way to get back to myself. I’m a chiropractor and own my wellness clinic, so I’m always busy and taking care of others. I Above left: Megan Banker. Photo: Tommy Corey.

Above right: Rochelle Murphy. Photo: Unknown.

16 MAZAMAS

love serving my community but I also need to take time to ground myself. I also deal with a lot of anxiety, depression, and panic disorder, so getting outside is a form of therapy for me.

Rochelle Murphy: I grew up in Portland, so started experiencing the outdoors from a young age. I did the environmental camps and outdoor school and all that, and went camping and fishing and hiking with my dad. I dabbled in rock climbing when I was in undergrad, then I moved to England for 12 years and didn’t do much outdoorsy stuff. After my divorce, when I found myself back in Portland, I took to the mountains to rediscover myself and move past that difficult phase of my life. It became my therapy as well as my playground. Now I mainly get outside to

clear my head and find the balance that I’m lacking in my daily life.

How are you involved with the Mazamas?

MB: I’ve been pretty involved with the Mazamas since I first took BCEP in 2017. I’ve been on various committees and am currently working on finishing my Leadership Development work to become a climb leader.

RM: I was volunteering with the youth outreach program before COVID. I have yet to return, although I’d like to. I have a young child and my mom has been in chemo, so I’m being extra COVID-cautious, but hopefully once we turn that around I can go back to volunteering. I really loved watching the young generations discover

Everything about this project has been intentional, which makes it super different from other projects I’ve consulted on. When we first met with OR, they had us present our favorite pieces of clothing and gear (across any brand) and also talk about what was missing.

They asked us about our experiences in the outdoors and really listened to what we needed. ” climbing, and that they are capable and brave!

In the media, and for many of us in our own minds, we see a pretty homogeneous group of people portrayed in the outdoors (white, often male, thin, able-bodied). This is especially true as the level of skill or expertise required in the activity increases. Why is this idea of what an “athlete” looks like wrong?

MB: It’s not necessarily wrong. It’s not wrong to be white, thin, or able-bodied.

What’s wrong is only showing one piece of the puzzle. When marketing campaigns only show images of one type of person in the outdoors, it’s human nature for us to think that is the only kind of person who can do those things. When we think only one type of person does an activity, we start to only hear those voices, or make gear for those bodies. We make that image the standard. The standard in outdoor adventuring, especially climbing, has become one-dimensional and we need to change that.

RM: I’m a big proponent of Health At Any Size (HAES), and I think trying to categorize certain body types as athletic is a fallacy. Plenty of plus-sized bodies are healthy and capable. I know some amazing people doing amazing things in their sports with “non traditional” bodies. The media needs to widen the lens and focus on the diversity of people in sport, and that goes for body sizes as well as People of Color (POC).

There are many barriers people face when trying to get outside, like cost, location or transportation, time, and inadequate representation. How does the limited availability of clothing and

gear in plus sizing also inhibit access, physically and/or emotionally?

MB: When you don’t have access to clothing and gear for climbing it is detrimental physically and emotionally.

Emotionally, you begin to internalize that this space is not for you. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve received a message like “I never thought I could rock climb because I’ve never found a harness that fits.” I’ve been in situations where I’ve begun to talk negatively to myself because I was wearing jackets that were made for a man’s body so they were so tight in the chest that I couldn’t breathe. Physically, having access to appropriate gear is a safety issue.

Climbing is all about mitigating risk. When access to proper fitting and functioning gear is limited, the risk increases.

RM: I have never been a person to let something like finding pants stop me if I want to do a thing. I just either make what I have work the best it can, or I find it. I shopped in the men’s section a lot for things like snow pants. I struggled to find a climbing harness and eventually ended up with a men’s harness. I can see how this could be discouraging and distressing to some. It’s not a nice feeling to walk into a store and have like one option in your size or gender. Often that one option was the most expensive. There may be some people who don’t want to shop in the men’s section, or can’t afford the sole plus-size option. Outdoor gear is already expensive enough. It may also put added pressure on people to lose weight in unhealthy ways in order to fit into the gear they want.

The only real way to solve this problem is expanding clothing lines to be realistic.

continued on next page

Rochelle rappelling at Smith Rock. Photo: Unknown.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 17

Sizing, continued from previous page.

You're both advisors on a project with Outdoor Research to make technical clothing and gear in inclusive sizing. What types of products will be available in the new lineup? Was there anything intentional about choosing those particular items? What makes them stand out?

MB: Everything about this project has been intentional, which makes it super different from other projects I’ve consulted on.

When we first met with OR, they had us present our favorite pieces of clothing and gear (across any brand) and also talk about what

Megan on Mt. Thielsen. Photo: Unknown

was missing. They asked us about our experiences in the outdoors and really listened to what we needed. Then they went to work to figure out how they could create a technical product line that would allow us to dress from base layer to shell layer completely.

No other outdoor company offers this. In order to accomplish this, they had to completely redo their sizing. They realized that if they wanted to create a product that would work for plus-size bodies, they would first have to re-do their grading for straight-size bodies.

This whole project has been going on for about a year and a half behind the scenes because of all the things they needed to change about their sizing formulas. It’s been really incredible to watch and be a part of. Items that will be part of the launch include their most popular pants, the Ferrosi and the Cirque, puffy jacket, two types of rain shells, a lightweight wind shell, sun protective layers, hiking shorts, plus-size gaiters and neck buff, rain pants, and a few others I’m sure I’m forgetting.

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RM: There is a wide range of products in the new line coming out. Technical gear for every season! I think OR really wanted to make sure there is something for everyone. Pants, puffy jackets, shorts, rain gear, tank tops … it’s great to have items in technical fabrics that actually fit where they need to. I also have quite a long inseam, and so far have had no problem with the pants in the collection hitting in the right place. They really listened to the feedback they were given and tweaked items to make sure what they were putting out was the best it could be. With plenty of decent-sized pockets! A girl can never have enough pockets!

The OR website mentions that the new products will help experts excel in their outdoor objectives and invite newcomers into the outdoor community. In what ways will the products help you in your adventures? Would access to similar products when you got started in the outdoors have made a difference in your lives?

MB: I’ve already gotten some of the products and they are incredible. I was shocked when I put on a puffy for the first time and didn’t have to suck in my belly and had full range of motion in my arms. I actually asked my husband “is this what it feels like to be comfortable?” Plus-size people have just been putting up with whatever works for so long. Our expectations for outdoor clothing is literally on the floor, so having access to clothing that was made specifically for our bodies is liberating in so many ways.

Now, instead of focusing on how uncomfortable I am or how I can’t do a certain movement because my clothes are too tight, I can focus on whatever adventure I’m on. I think if I had access to better clothing and gear when I first started that I wouldn’t have spent so much time doubting if I belonged. Feeling like an imposter in the outdoor space is something a lot of people can relate too. Being a plussize person without access to gear that fits right just adds to the list of reasons why I told myself I didn’t belong.

RM: I think some of the items will make movement less restrictive. Having something that fits right in the waist, hips, and thighs makes it so much easier to find the flexibility you need when hiking or climbing. I spent a lot of time climbing in Old Navy leggings, which was less than ideal. I even did Mount St. Helens in them! So I’m stoked to finally have technical pants that I will feel comfortable in, that can take me where I want to go.

Megan, you and two fellow OR advisors started the Climb Big community. What is Climb Big, and how can people get involved?

MB: Climb Big is an initiative that was started to increase awareness of plus-size bodies in the climbing space. It started when my friend Sam Ortiz began hosting plus-size climbing meetups in Seattle. I loved what she was doing so I joined up with a friend of mine here in Portland to start doing meetups in Portland.

Through Planet Granite, we were able to teach people in bigger bodies how to rock climb in a safe, welcoming environment. Planet Granite was really great and has even started to purchase plus-size climbing harnesses for all of their gyms across the country because of the work we’ve done. Climb Big has grown into an Instagram page and Facebook group where people can find climbing partners, ask gear questions, or have a sense of community with others who have a shared experience. Learn more at climbbig.org.

Do you have any other tips or advice for people of size who want to try a new "outdoorsy" activity, or to simply get outside?

MB: Trying something new takes courage and bravery, especially when it’s in a space where you don’t see representation.

There are a lot of affinity groups on social media, so that is a good start. Make sure you start with people you know and trust and have conversations around your needs. Setting expectations about the adventure beforehand like “I’m going to be moving slow and may need to stop early” is a good way to ensure a fun day.

RM: If you’re nervous, join an outdoor group on Facebook or something. There are a bunch out there. When I first got back to Portland, I joined PNW Outdoor Women, and made some great adventure friends and learned a lot about different skill sets and activities. Gaining skills through classes, like Mazamas BCEP, is also a great way to build confidence and meet people. But generally, just make a plan and go. Be safe, take your ten essentials, let someone know where you are, carry plenty of water, and wear appropriate shoes, but get out there!

How could other outdoor brands, organizations like the Mazamas, and the outdoor community at large better support people of size and other underrepresented folks?

MB: Listen to the community. Ask questions about what you can be doing better. On more than one occasion with the Mazamas and in the outdoor community I’ve voiced my concerns and been told “oh it’s not that bad” or “you don’t need to feel anxious about your speed” or some other version of those words.

When you disregard someone’s experience you are telling them “your thoughts and feelings aren’t valid” and further the idea that they don’t belong there. I hope to see the Mazmas and other organizations and companies really actively listening and then making actionable plans to change. I hope to see more thoughtful partnerships with affinity groups that are doing this work.

RM: A big way to help representation is to include people of size in images, media, and as leaders. When people of size see other people of size doing the thing, it makes it less intimidating.

Is there anything else you'd like to tell our readers? Where can people follow you or learn more about your work?

MB: My biggest piece of advice for anyone reading is that if any of this has made you uncomfortable or defensive, to please explore those feelings and work through them. We all have different lived experiences and the Mazama mission is to inspire EVERYONE to love and protect the mountains. I hope that we can continue to have these conversations and find ways to create a welcoming, safe atmosphere for anyone who wants to get outdoors. You can find more about my work and what I’m doing on my Instagram, @ pdxoutdoorchiro, or email megan.banker1060@gmail.com.

RM: My outdoor time has been kinda reigned in during COVID and while dealing with a toddler who refuses to sleep, but I post on Instagram when I do have adventures. I hope they will be more frequent very soon! I’m @raketje over there.

Learn more about the OR inclusive sizing project and Megan and Rochelle’s involvement at tinyurl.com/ORplus.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 19

THREE AUTUMN TRIPS IN MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

by Darrin Gunkel

C

ooler days and longer nights; less sweat and more stars. Maybe some relief from tourist traffic and definitely relief from July’s mosquitoes. Softer sunlight for better pictures, and the rich autumn color pallet, and skies scrubbed deep blue by early rains. September, October (and even November in a dry year) is the time to steal a few days and head for a Mt. Rainier National Park backcountry trip. Rainier, also known as Tahoma, is always busy, but the deeper you get into autumn, the less busy it is. Likewise with trails and backcountry campsites. Even in a park that receives two million visitors a year, you can find solitude and a world-class wilderness experience, and the chances increase as the year wanes.

About a third of all backcountry campsites in the national park are first come, first served. Getting one of those sites, particularly in high demand camps like Summerland or Indian Bar, is a hard dice roll in high season. Things change after Labor Day. You begin to find more of the reserved sites, booked solid all summer by winners of the park’s early access lottery, freeing up. There’s less competition for the Above: Owyhigh Lakes and Governors Ridge.

Facing page: The view from camp on Shriner Peak.

Photos: Darrin Gunkel

20 MAZAMAS

first come, first served sites. There’s also a better chance that reservations, made months and months before, go unclaimed.

Rangers open those unclaimed sites to walk ups at noon each day. So, whether you’re planning ahead, or on a spur-of-themoment trip, the Fates smiles on autumn campers. Download the national park’s Wilderness Trip Planner, an easy visual guide to backcountry camps. It’s handy

for drawing up Plan B, in case the Fates frown, instead. Camps on quieter trails, like Shriner and Owyhigh, and in deep woods, like Olallie Creek, almost always have spots, and rangers have been known to send experienced hikers to dispersed, unofficial camping should their first choices be full.

Now that your appetite’s been whetted, here are a few recommended trips:

SHRINER PEAK ■ Distance: 8.5 miles round trip miles ■ Elevation gain: 3,434 feet ■ Difficulty: Strenuous ■ Ideal trip: one short overnight ■ Use: Not busy ■ Highlights: A fire lookout and fire lookout views of Tahoma and its setting, from camp.

By the time 5,800-foot tall Shriner peak melts out, the days are too long and hot for this to be a sane summer trip. Especially since you hit a shadeless mile practically at the beginning of the hike, which is never not a steep uphill. Then there's the problem of water, which you have to lug up yourself. But spending a night at the aerie passing for a campsite here is worth the extra effort, and the extra 10 pounds of the gallon or so of water that you'll need.

Go in the autumn and you'll only sweat out

half that much getting to the top. There's a good chance you'll have the camp, the summit, and the views all to yourself.

The main show, of course, is the entire expanse of Tahoma's east face, and one of the most expansive (non-airplane) views of Mt. Rainier National Park there is. Skiers who've been to Crystal Mountain know this view well. Shriner peak campers have a chance to see it in many moods of light that those skiers never do: silhouetted against deep evening twilight, glowing unearthly

blue-ish white before dawn, and then aflame in the sunrise. Shriner Peak is also a fine place to scout routes on distant Nelson Ridge and Mt. Aix, admire Mt. Adams, and see the Goat Rocks from a new perspective.

There's not much point in describing this trail: it just goes up. You get a preview of the summit “wow” about 2.5 miles in, and then continue the swearing and cursing for nearly two more. It'll be over before you know it.

continued on next page SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 21

Rainier, continued from previous page.

Subalpine meadow on Cowlitz Divide.

Photo: Darrin Gunkel

Monkey flowers at Summerland.

Photo: Darrin Gunkel

Summerland.

Photo: Darrin Gunkel

COWLITZ DIVIDE TRAIL TO WHITE RIVER, VIA SUMMERLAND

■ Distance: 17.6 mile one way through hike ■ Elevation gain: 5,700 feet ■ Difficulty: Grueling ■ Ideal trip: Three nights, four days; or for athletes, two nights, three days.

■ Highlights: one of the grandest sections of the Wonderland Trail, Rainier’s ‘round the mountain route; goats, marmots, autumn blooms of gentian and purple monkey flower.

Yes, grueling. All the more so if you buck the much more popular trend and begin this section of the Wonderland Trail at the Cowlitz Divide Trail and exit at White River. This approach means 1,000 feet more elevation gained, but there’s something to be said for walking towards the mountain, rather than away from it. Also, it just makes better esthetic sense: you begin climbing through old growth forest, rise to windows in a high forested ridge offering glimpses of greater things to come, dive into a deep rift in the side of Tahoma, then traverse alpine barrens to the Wonderland’s high point, finishing off in the subalpine splendor of Summerland. This trip is one of Rainier’s finest, in any season, but because of camp reservation logistics, next to impossible to pull off during the peak summer months unless you’ve won the park’s Early Access Lottery.

The trip begins with a three-mile,1,400foot warm up and a night in Olallie Creek Camp. That may seem too easy, but the advantage is being able to savour the second leg over a full day. This walk along Cowlitz Divide covers 6.2 miles, 2,400 feet

of elevation gain, and 900 feet of loss. It tops out at 6,000 feet, then dives down to Indian Bar, a campground near the source of the Ohanapecosh River, between two long, tall arms of the mountain (Pro tip: arrive early to snag site 2). It’s a great place to watch goats defying gravity on the steep meadows above.

Day three you earn your Mt. Rainier hiking stripes: the steepest, hardest section of the Wonderland Trail’s 93 miles. Good news, it only lasts a mile. Bad news, that mile gains 1,600 feet, climbing more than a thousand stairs (I lost count) that are in egregious disrepair. These stairs are another reason to avoid the more popular north to south version of this trip. They are so rutted, eroded, blown out, and allaround-terrible that a descent would be far more nerve-wracking, and hazardous, than the ascent is painful. The stairs take you to Day three’s reward: a long alpine traverse with views as far as Mt. Hood, topping out at the Wonderland’s high point, 6,800-foot Panhandle Gap. Pause to search for the glimpse of Mt. Stuart far on the northern horizon, marvel at interplay of rock, ice,

peaks and ridges, and then begin the plunge to Summerland Camp, mostly over scree, with close up views of Little Tahoma and nearly all 9,000 feet of the Emmons Glacier. By the time you reach Summerland you’ll have covered 4.4 miles, climbed 1,900 feet, and descended 800. Site 5 has the best view, and is the most removed from the others, but it’s the farthest from the very pretty creek, lined with purple monkey flower and gentian this time of year, serving as Summerland’s water source.

The final day is easy enough that you can spend the morning watching marmots scold day hikers, or scan the ridges for goats, or, if you have binoculars, look for climbers high up on the Emmons Glacier.

The walk out is a leisurely descent to White River, losing 2,000 feet in 4.2 miles.

This last leg can seem long, and it’s mostly back down in forest. The payback is that forest, full of ancient giants that draw your attention away from your blistered toes, up towards their crowns and the forest canopy.

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continued on next page

OWYHIGH LAKES

■ Distance: 7 miles round trip, or more ■ Elevation gain: 1,650 feet or more ■ Difficulty: Leisurely ■ Ideal trip: One long overnight, or two nights

■ Use: Not busy ■ Highlights: Exploring untrammeled wilderness

The tread on this route should tell you something. It's barely worn, and in great shape compared to the deep trenches more popular trails devolve into. Anywhere other than Mt. Rainier National Park, this trail would be a freeway: scenic, easy, good camps, and a launch pad to some fantastic backcountry exploring. But it’s overshadowed by so many other great Rainier trails, it's lonesome, and the route remains pleasantly rut-free. No views of Tahoma, either, but the trade-off ’s worth it. This is a trip to take it easy, less about

ticking off miles and elevation attained, and more about soaking in wilderness solitude that seems to be growing rare.

The first three miles are a gentle uphill in old growth forest, thick with autumn mushrooms. At the top, you’ll find Tamanos Creek camp, hidden in the woods, and a long-ish walk from water. Perhaps that’s why you may find yourself the sole occupant, even on a Saturday night in fine September weather. The woods open up in another half mile to a wide, meadowed bowl beneath the spires of Governors Ridge

and the Owyhigh Lakes. Early season, the flowers are only slightly more tremendous than the mosquitoes; both are gone by autumn. The changing light on the peaks and meadows is without season, as is the subalpine silence. A few hundred yards past the lake, in the next, smaller meadow, a way trail cuts off through the brush and up the shoulders of Tamanos Mountain.

You could easily spend a full day exploring these heights, and so have a reason to make this short trip a little longer, giving yourself two nights.

Above: Owyhigh Lake Trail.

Photo: Darrin Gunkel

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 23

WHAT’S GOING ON WITH FIRST AID AT THE MAZAMAS?

by Duncan Hart, First Aid Committee Chair

A

After a long pause on Mazama First Aid training courses over the past year due to COVID-19, the Mazama First Aid Committee is excited to offer 20 CPR, First Aid, and Wilderness First Aid (WFA) classes, along with a new Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) skill builder course over the next 12 months. We thank the Mazama members who responded to a recent First Aid survey and posed questions about courses and recertifications. In general, survey respondents want more information about: what’s the same, what’s changed, when are classes being offered, what COVID-19 protocols are in place, recertifications, and the new Mountain First Aid skill builder. We will do our best to answer all questions between Mazama Bulletin articles, eNews, and with updates to the First Aid section on the Mazama website.

CPR If you have taken a Mazama CPR course prior to COVID-19, expect very few changes in the format of this course moving forward. The Adult CPR & AED curriculum is an American Heart Association (AHA) course and remains a blend of online coursework, and a practice/skills test CPR class at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). There will be a modest price increase to cover the cost of the CPR program for the Mazamas.

Climb and activity leaders will receive priority acceptance into this course in order to ensure that safety and preparedness remains a priority for all Mazama activities. Remember to thank your instructors who make CPR possible for us! Visit mazamas.org/CPR for details on course offerings.

HIKE LEADER FIRST AID This course offering will remain consistent with previous formatting and if you have taken Hike Leader First Aid before, you will recognize it as consistent with prior curriculum structure.

Functioning in a hybrid model, the Heartsaver® First Aid/CPR AED course blends online coursework with an in-person skills test at the MMC. There will be a modest price increase to cover the cost of the Hike Leader First Aid program.

WILDERNESS FIRST AID (WFA) In 2019, the Mazamas taught our last MFA course for a number of reasons. The course had evolved over the years to meet the needs of intermediate climbers in alpine climb settings.

The scope of education followed wilderness medicine practices but the curriculum was never certified. Wilderness medicine is 24 MAZAMAS

an evolving field of evidence-based practices and the Mazamas are not equipped with the necessary resources to maintain the curriculum. The MFA badge was an internal Mazama badge and had very little meaning outside of our organization, making it risky course offering.

A Mazama task force was formed to examine and research wilderness medicine training best practices. After an exhaustive search and course piloting, including 100 percent online to a hybrid learning model, the Mazamas selected a 16-hour WFA curriculum, offered by a nationally certified third party. Valid for two years, the WFA certification is widely accepted nationally by federal, state, and local governmental agencies, outdoor recreation organizations, volunteer youth organizations, guide companies, search and rescue organizations, etc, To keep costs low and prioritize accessibility, the WFA course will be taught by qualified instructors who are Mazama members, volunteering their time teaching the course. There will be five WFA course offerings during the 2021–2022 fiscal year, with 20 students per class.

We will closely follow COVID-19 guidelines and adjust programming as needed with local COVID-19 restrictions. Our curriculum certifying company, Base Medical, has a medical director that specifies requirements for safe training and our courses will function in alignment with their recommendations.

After completion of this course, each student will receive a WFA badge, which will remain valid for two years, following the National Wilderness First Aid standard. After two years, there are several options for renewing the WFA certification, including online options. Visit mazamas.org/wfa for more information on course offerings and recertification options.

MOUNTAIN FIRST AID SKILL BUILDER This new, one-day skill builder is on November 7. In past years, there were two MFA courses offered with a maximum student capacity of 45 students. The 32-hour MFA course was very popular, with more demand than available student slots. In this new format where WFA is offered separately, The Mazamas can now train 120 prospective students in WFA in addition to 90 students through the MFA skill builder. For those who previously earned the MFA badge, the new skill builder will be very similar to day two of the weekend practical.

EQUIVALENT FIRST AID TRAINING OPTIONS Many members asked if other completed First Aid training courses could count towards a Mazamas CPR, Hike Leader First Aid, or WFA badge. The answer is Yes! In general, you will need to provide proof of a certified training course that meets or exceeds the Mazama badge requirement. To request a badge, log in to your profile on mazamas.org, scroll down to the badge section, click on the request a badge link, and complete the online form.

As of 2019, Mazama First Aid training curriculum ranged from a variety of 1–2 hour lecture topics, an 8-hour Hike Leader First Aid course, and the 32-hour MFA course. There was not an intermediate level Wilderness First Aid offering. We are excited that we can now offer a 16-hour WFA training at a lower cost to more Mazama members. We encourage all Mazama members to consider taking the WFA course if you plan to spend extended periods of time in the backcountry. The new MFA skill builder is oriented towards advanced alpine rock/snow team rescue with more practice on patient assessment, patient care, and mass casualty events. A current WFA certification stands as a prerequisite for the MFA course. There may be a few temporary programming modifications to get us through COVID-19, to ensure everyone’s safety, and we will strive to provide as realistic a field experience as possible. There are a lot of questions about MFA badge recertifications and we are exploring a number of options. One important note is to not let your current MFA badge expire. It is good for three years, but if it expires, the course and all prerequisites have to be retaken. Visit mazamas.org/mfa for more information on course offerings and recertification options.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 25

SAYING GOODBYE

MARIANNA SINCLAIR KEARNEY October 3, 1923–July 8, 2021

Marianna Sinclair on the summit of Mt. Hood, 1945 Image: Mazama Library & Historical Collections

by Rick Craycraft

W

hether for riding a bike on the summit of Mt. Hood, or running for her life from the fury of Mount St. Helens eruption, or for her professional-level artistic contributions to the Mazamas, Marianna Sinclair Kearney was one of the most visible Mazama members in the last half of the twentieth century.

Marianne was born and raised in Detroit, Michigan in a family that traveled a bit but limited their outdoor activities to sledding and skating. Marianna attended high school in downtown Detroit, then art school, preparing herself for a career as an illustrator and graphic designer. She worked in various industries to support the 26 MAZAMAS

war effort, and for a time was under the tutelage of Max Fleischer, the creator of Betty Boop.

Then, suddenly, in 1944, her family decided to pull up stakes in Michigan and move to Oregon. They made an adventure of this move, visiting western wonders like Yellowstone, the Badlands,

and Crater Lake. When they arrived in Portland they only knew two families.

While visiting one of these families, Marianna let it be known that she wanted to join a hiking club. They directed her to the Mazamas. Long before the internet, Marianna went to the Portland Public Library and found a Mazama Bulletin, which led her to the Mazama clubrooms, at that time located downtown in the Pacific Building on Yamhill Street. Once there, she ran immediately into Don Onthank.

He advised her to hike with the Mazamas over the winter, then climb Mt. Hood the following June. Marianna did as he suggested and went up Hood her first time with 59 other people.

That was all it took for her. By the end of 1945 she had earned her Guardian Peaks award and had written a playful article for that year's Mazama Annual about a bike trip with a friend entitled, “We Push High.”

The next year, on a climb of Mt. Jefferson with a friend, she ran into Ty Kearney, whom she had heard of, and approached him for a ride back to Portland. Thus began a lifetime ride for them both. Part of that journey took place in August of 1947 when Marianna and Ty, along with seven friends, disassembled a bicycle and packed it up Hood, then took turns riding it along the summit ridge. That accomplishment landed them in Ripley's Believe It or Not and has been Mazama lore ever since (and is described in the 2002 Mazama Annual). That same year, Marianna produced the poster for the Mazama Lodge that became a symbol for decades to come.

Marianna and Ty were married in 1948, but only after backpacking 100 miles on the Skyline Trail, arriving at Mt. Hood just in time to participate in that year's Round the Mountain hike. Later they had a reception of sorts on the Hardesty Trail in Forest Park and planted two trees side by side. From there the couple launched into a plethora of activities for the next five decades. They led hikes, backpacks, and Outings that included the nascent sport of ski mountaineering, hiking and climbing in England and Wales, a conservation outing in the Blue Mountains, and a whirlwind tour of Hawaii. In 1970, they and Bob Peirce were the first people to reach two Mazama climbers, who had been stranded on Mt. Hood for five days. In 1971 they pioneered a new route on Mount St. Helens called Moonbase. (Documentation of all these adventures can be found in older Mazama Annuals.)

In 1980, hoping maybe to slow it down a bit, they volunteered to monitor conditions on Mount St. Helens through the Washington Department of Emergency Services (but only after returning from a tour of New Zealand). On the morning of May 18, Marianna and Ty felt a jolt beneath their feet and soon realized the mountain was blowing up. Thus began a harrowing escape, chronicled in the 1980 Annual, with the beautifully understated title “One Sunday in May.” In her long and interesting time in the mountains, Marianna had always wanted to visit the Himalayas. In 1991, with her son Alan, a climber of some renown in his own

right, she trekked around Nepal. Even at 67, she still had the pluck to make it to 13,000 feet.

Ty Kearney died in 2001, and Marianna settled into being a Mazama “elder.” The next year, she was awarded the Redman Cup in recognition of her skills as an artist.

Here are the sentiments expressed so beautifully on that occasion.

Marianna painted colorful posters to promote participation in local walks and Mazama Lodge events. In the late 1950s, she illustrated a cookbook to raise funds for a new clubroom. Her whimsical sketches and caricatures enhanced several articles in the Mazama Annual. Her scrapbook of the [Hardesty Trail Project], created when Forest Park was developed, is a historically significant record that inspired Jane Miller to create scrapbooks during the more recent restoration of the trails. Perhaps her most unique, precious, and personal work of art donated to the Mazamas is her illustrated diary of her first mountain climb, in 1945.

Marianna had one more appearance in the public eye. In February of 2007, as the Mazamas prepared to move into their current home, she joined the march from the old clubrooms in northwest Portland and, as our longest tenured member present, symbolically passed along an ice axe to our youngest member present, an eight year old, to assure we will continue to “Climb High.”

This page: Top left, Marianna Sinclair and Ty Kearney on the summit of Mt. Hood, 1947. Middle: Marianna’s illustration of the Mazama Log Lodge.

Bottom right: Page from Marianna’s Mt. Hood journal. All images from the Mazama Library & Historical Collections

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 27

Mazama

LIBRARY

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library.

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

DID YOU KNOW? • That 22 expeditions had attempted to climb an 8,000 meter peak prior to Annapurna’s first ascent in 1950.

• That the Himalayas are rising by .4 inches (1 centimeter) a year.

• The average amount of time it takes to trek around Annapurna, one of the most popular trekking destinations, is three and a half weeks.

• The Himalayan Club was founded in 1928 to encourage Himalayan climbing and exploration.

Treasures from the SPECIAL COLLECTION Annapurna: heroic conquest of the highest mountain–26,493 ft.–ever climbed by man, Maurice Herzog, 1952.

This book chronicles one of the great landmarks in mountaineering, the first ascent of an 8,000 meter peak. Besides Herzog, members of the expedition included Louis Lachenal, Caston Rebuffat, and Lionel Terray, now regarded as some of the finest mountaineers ever. The publication of Annapurna made Herzog a celebrity and the book’s famous exhortation, “there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men” inspired a generation of climbers. Mazama Library Special Collection, 915.42 H44

Books on ANNAPURNA • Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone, Messner, 915.42.M56a • Annapurna: a trekker’s guide, Reynolds, 915.42 R33 • Annapurna: a woman’s place, Blum, 915.42 B62 • True summit: what really happened on the legendary ascent of Annapurna, Roberts, 915.42.R54

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New RELEASES & ADDITIONS Everest: You decide how to survive!, 2011, Doyle. An interactive adventure like no other! On this epic climb up Mount Everest, readers are part of the youngest team ever to climb the world's tallest peak.

Only YOU can make the right choice about your own survival and then experience the consequences of those choices. Will you summit Mount Everest and return to base camp safely? Will you be forced to turn back early or worse?

Only you can determine your own fate! Highly illustrated in comic book style, and based on real, true-life facts about mountain climbing, Mount Everest, and Himalayan culture, this book will be a surefire hit with anyone craving adventure and a fun, visual reading experience. Mazama Library call# 813 D77.

Beyond the Clouds: Trekking in the Hidden Land of Dolpo, 2013, Druker. In 2004, Phil Druker was invited to trek through the Upper Dolpo: a distant mountainous and Tibetan region of Nepal inhabited by some of the toughest people on the planet. His 22-day trek stimulated and challenged his lifetime love of walking in the outdoors. He and his companions, Charla Britt and Laurie Vasily, made great friends, met engaging residents, and exalted with ethereal sunshine and high mountain passes. Mazama Library call# 915.42 D84

The Mazama Library NEEDS SUPPORT—from you!

Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to the Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections!

We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more.

Please contact Library and Historical Collections Manager, Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support.

SAYING GOODBYE PHYLLIS RAE DAVIS DECEMBER 14, 1919–JULY 12, 2021

Mazama Life Member Phyllis Davis was a librarian for the City of Beaverton from 1946 to 2002. She spent her time as both a volunteer and paid librarian. She had many friends within the library who loved and cared about her and she will be deeply missed within the Phyllis Rae Davis community.

Phyllis and her husband, Ray C. Davis (d. 2005), married in 1938 and moved to Beaverton in 1943. In their years together they were avid hikers and mountain climbers and loved the opportunities that Oregon provided. They worked together through the years to better the nature of the mountains and trails that called to them. With that interest in mind, they were part of a small team of volunteers that helped to purchase and save Cascade Head. They then donated that land, which had been a small ranch overlooking the ocean just north of Lincoln City, to the Nature Conservancy.

In the Mazamas, Phyllis and Ray led an activity called “knapsacks” in the mid-1950s and went on to lead backpacks and Trail Trips for the decades up to 1990. They also did their share of trail tending work, jointly and individually leading those outings.

Phyllis received her Guardian Peaks award in 1955.

“Mom and Dad were a team all their 63 years together and I hope they are in Heaven, finding new trails to hike”—Judy Hobday, Phyllis’s daughter.

FRANCIS LEE ELLMERS JUNE 28, 1924–JULY 14, 2021

Francis was a veteran of the Army Air Corps, later the United States Air Force; and served in both World War II and the Korean War. He retired as a letter carrier from the United States Postal Service. Francis was an avid outdoorsman; he enjoyed mountain climbing, hiking, and Francis Lee Ellmers whitewater rafting. He was also very active with the Freemasons, and participated in many Mason-related activities.

Francis Ellmers was a Mazama member from 1966 to 2012. He led 39 trail trips between 1971 and 1996.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 29

RESORTING TO PLAN B

by Ali Gray

A

s mountaineers, we all know what it's like when things don't go to plan. Partners bail, the weather gets bad, smoke smothers the area, injuries happen, gear fails, or we simply don't feel up to whatever it is we need to do.

Last year, my partner and I wanted to make the most of what was left of the summer with some friends. After being stuck inside and in the city for the entire spring and the better part of the summer, it was time to get out and have some (socially distanced) fun. We were up for whatever—hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, mountaineering—but preferably somewhere high up a mountain.

My friend group has been wanting to attempt Mt. Shuksan for a few years. In 2019, we got most of the planning in place for the climb. It was our Plan A. When that fell through due to bad weather, we were thwarted all the way through to Plan D— rock climbing in northeastern Oregon and backpacking in the Wallowas—after falling back on the "pack all the gear and just drive somewhere" plan of action. It was a fantastic trip regardless.

30 MAZAMAS

So when Mt. Shuksan came up in conversation again in 2020, we were determined. The bit of rain forecasted for the first day and night of our climb was worth getting together and back outside.

We soon found ourselves camped in Marblemount, ready for an early drive to the ranger station then on to the trailhead.

Sure enough, the next day dawned dark and damp, but we weren't deterred.

Standing outside our cars in pretty heavy rain at the trailhead, I knew something was astray. We hadn't even left the parking lot and my raincoat was already soaking through. That's weird, it had never given me trouble before, even in the notoriously nasty weather of Patagonia. So on went a spare garbage bag over my shoulders. Since this doesn't work (surprise), all my layers were soon soaked through—and we'd only hiked around a

mile. I was miserable, and I admit I was stubborn and thoroughly unsuccessful at improving my rapidly worsening mood.

During brief hiking breaks, we had "how do we feel, should we continue on?" conversations. We discussed things like if it could be a complete whiteout and freezing snowstorm up at camp (probably), if we could hope to dry out our stuff tonight (probably not), if we could start a fire to warm up and dry out (no), and whether the weather was worse than we expected (yes).

After these conversations—and, I regret to say, complaining from me—we decided to turn around.

Well, so much for Mt. Shuksan, again.

The entire northern Cascades region was covered with a huge storm, so our only options were to bail and just drive our noncarpooling cars back to Portland or find something else that had better conditions.

Luckily, the weather around Mt. Rainier looked decent. We'd burned one day so far so needed something we could do car-tocar with the gear we already had. Unicorn Peak fit the bill, so we were off.

The next morning near Longmire dawned sunny and pleasant—what a relief !

We got a decently early start from the trailhead and made good time through the hiking part of the climb. When we got to the first of the steeper snowfields, it was in good condition. Same for the second, and the third. In fact, apart from a minor off-route scramble up some slightly spicy rock, the climb went uneventfully and well all the way to the summit block. And it was a beautiful day to boot.

We had to wait for another party to finish rappelling the summit block, and then it was our turn. One of my tradinclined friends led the pitch gracefully, and we followed up one by one. Making it to the top of my first alpine rock summit was amazing! The view of Mt. Rainier and the surrounding Tatoosh Range was stunning, and the company was even better. We had some lunch at the top before rappelling down. After a few enjoyable glissades and lots more pictures, we were back to beating our boots on the dirt trail out. And (surprise!) we were celebrating a birthday so there were even cupcakes waiting for us in the car.

There were plenty of good lessons on this trip. Don't get your heart set on a specific objective—things just don't always work out. Being open to other options, even ones that require a large change of plans (and a lot of driving time), can prevent heartbreak as well as the potential for much more serious problems or injury. Also, check your gear. I'd assumed my raincoat was fine, but testing it out during the lead-up to a bigger adventure could have helped. And heading into the mountains with fun, understanding, and open-minded friends and partners goes a long way towards making trips that don't go to plan still a success, and ones that do even better.

Facing page: Summit photo, Katie, Nathan, Mary Kate, Aimee, Ali, Andy, and Nick. Photo: Aimee Mattson This page, clockwise top left: Andy, Katie, and Nathan on the climb up with Mt. Rainier in the background. Photo: Ali Gray; Crossing the final snowfield to the summit block. Photo: Ali Gray; Soaked at Mt. Shuksan before we even left the parking lot. Photo: Katie Winkler

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 31

BOOK REVIEW FOUR FIFTHS A GRIZZLY: A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON NATURE THAT JUST MIGHT SAVE US ALL DOUGLAS CHADWICK

by Ken DuBois

N

o offense, but you and I are about as individual as a standard-issue postage stamp. That’s a key message in Douglas Chadwick’s engaging new book, Four Fifths a Grizzly, a lushly illustrated essay collection in which he explores the interconnectedness of life on earth, from the mammoth to the microscopic.

And to diminish any notion we may have about our uniqueness, he starts with a humbling primer on common genes. We share about 97 percent of our genetic material with a chimpanzee, Chadwick notes, and about 30 percent with the banana he’s eating.

But Chadwick’s goal with Grizzly is to inspire. He has a strong conservation message, and a call to action that depends on our ability to see ourselves as part of nature and see nature as part of us. “You, every friend, enemy, lover, dignity, and desperado along with every other animal, every plant, and every fungus you’ll ever meet, exist as a union,” Chadwick writes. In place of individualism, he encourages us to embrace the concept of the “greater self,” and he means that literally when reminding us about the multitudes of helpful microbes living in and on our bodies, a veritable army of organisms that make us “a kind of compound creature.”

Having placed Homo sapiens in context, Chadwick devotes most of Grizzly to the non-human creatures and organisms that fascinate him, and the lengths to which he goes to observe and understand them. Regular readers of National Geographic know Chadwick for his outdoor adventure stories, and many of his conclusions in Grizzly are based on similar exploits. His fascinating essay on elephants begins with a high-speed chase in a Kenyan national park as he rides with a patrol unit on the trail of ivoryraiding bandits; he braves rough seas in the Atlantic, hundreds of miles off Nova Scotia, as part of a crew trying to learn more about northern bottlenose whales; and in a skiff near the Channel Islands off California, he has a chance encounter with the largest animal to have ever existed, a blue whale. He’s a self-professed “adrenaline junkie,” but a thoughtful one; each encounter confirms his belief that we are all in this together.

Most engaging in Grizzly are Chadwick’s examples of symbiosis, the phenomenon of plants and animals working together to create a mutually beneficial chain of events, a sort of organic Rube Goldberg machine. A tree nut goes in one end of the elephant and comes out the other; dung beetles form the waste into a ball and roll it home to store underground; a new tree takes root in ideal conditions. The acacia tree grows sweet pods that attract ants and hollow thorns where they can nest, effectively creating an in-house security system to ward off leaf-eating intruders. And the

32 MAZAMAS

chain of life that flows from strawberry plants is so complex, in Chadwick’s telling, he devotes two chapters to the subject, starting with a basic evolutionary question: Do they really need to be as scrumptious as this? (His conclusion: Yes, they do.)

The subject of strawberries also provides a way for Chadwick to bring us back to his original theme of the compound creature; because they share roots, strawberry plants in close proximity are really “clones,” as are groves of elms and aspen. He stops short of using the same term for humans, but does make the point that collectively—with shared behaviors and inclinations—we are playing an outsized role in disrupting the unity of the natural world. “This destructive pattern probably won’t change,” Chadwick writes, “until we change we way we think about our relationship to nature.”

Chadwick, Douglas. Four Fifths a Grizzly: A New Perspective on Nature that Just Might Save Us All. Ventura, California: Patagonia Works, 2021. Mazama Library number 551.6 C34.

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND THE MAZAMAS THANK YOU MAZAMA VOLUNTEERS!

We know that the Mazamas have extraordinary volunteers—now more than ever. As we continue to live through the pandemic, we are thankful to our leaders and volunteers for doing their part to keep us connected to the outdoors. We are in awe as they continue to innovate to provide our community with courses, skill builders, and seminars to educate the mountain community. And we are thankful to our hike, climb, and ramble leaders who persist in getting activities on our calendar.

STEEP SNOW & ICE SUBCOMMITTEE

The subcommittee successfully registered a full class for their upcoming skill builder. The skill builder begins on September 1 and runs until September 19.

LODGE COMMITTEE The Lodge opened! The committee is working on updating existing plumbing to resolve issues and looking to hire some part-time support.

OUTINGS COMMITTEE The committee successfully got three outings on the calendar and is on break until the fall.

CLIMBING COMMITTEE

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM SUBCOMMITTEE

The Leader Development (LD) program continues to promote LD candidates to provisional leader status and provisional climb leaders to full leader status.

The Climbing Committee is exploring skill badge equivalency to recognize training from outside the Mazamas.

The committee is debriefing leaders and planning variable start dates for BCEP 2022.

CANYONEERING COMMITTEE

Holding final training sessions for assistants while prepping for class, developing presentations, and running through lectures.

CLASSICS

Working on arrangements for the annual fall luncheon at the Lodge.

FAMILIES COMMITTEE The committee is preparing to their Families Mountaineering 101 course in September. The course will have the largest class in the program’s history.

NORDIC COMMITTEE Planning for meetings and classes for the upcoming year.

FIRST AID Working on programming for the new Mountaineering First Aid skill builder and with other committees to coordinate training.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 33

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS June 19—Mt. Adams, South Side. Teresa Redman, Leader. Teresa Dalsager, Assistant.

Quanita Anwar, Peter Boag, Nancy Gadd, Anna Miller, Chuck Smith, Ophelia Yan. June 19—Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier. Julie Kentosh, Leader. Mark Stave, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Terry Campbell, Drew Glassroth, Shawn Kennedy, Kevin Kohberger, Michelle L Martin, Courtney Rust.

Thank you to our climb leaders for taking on the challenge of leading climbs during the COVID-19 pandemic, and getting folks out into the mountains for some much needed fun!

July 3—Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge.

Gary Bishop, Leader. Kim Osgood, Assistant.

Peter Boag, Rachel Cline, Yuko OhnumaOyler, Kristofel Simbajon, Lynsey Tyler, Acacia Zodrow.

July 3—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Pushkar Dixit, Leader.

Rayce Boucher, Assistant. Doug Cousineau, Nancy Gadd, Sara Jensen, Choon CH Leong, Melanie Marechal, Chie Togo.

July 16—Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier. Larry Beck, Leader. Bridget Martin, Assistant. Lindsey Addison, Gary Ballou, Melanie Bower, Ann marie Caplan, Ralph Daub, Travis Feracota, Ardel Frick, Rebecca Lewis, Anna Lio, Rob Sinnott.

July 16—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier.

Gary Bishop, Leader. Larry Buzan, Assistant.

Urusa Alaan, Aaron Fancher, Gary Riggs.

July 5—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Julie Kentosh, Leader. Scott Auble, Assistant. Yukti Aggarwal, Melanie Bower, Ben Hoselton, Lauren Saxton.

July 16—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Andrew Leaf, Leader. Jeremiah Biddle, Assistant. Michael Capecelatro, Thomas Clarke, Brad Dewey, Nhat Pham, Lynsey Tyler, Mark Wilson.

July 8—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Amy Graham, Leader. Teresa Dalsager, Assistant. Avinash Ananthakrishnan, Tessa Rough.

July 17—West McMillan Spire, Terror Glacier. Linda Mark, Leader. Ankush Varma, Assistant. Alex Aguilar, Kyle Mangione, Jonathan Myers.

June 25—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge.

Christine Troy, Leader. Karen Graves, Assistant.

Thomas Clarke, Leo Filippini, Ariel Himmelstern, Anupama Kurpad, Joe Preston, Melissa Vidal.

July 9—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Courtney Rusk, Leader.

Kerry Loehr, Assistant. Eloise Bacher, Anthony Carr, David Feng, Drew Glassroth, Derek Jahelka, Shiva Kiran, Kristi Kose, Kayla Miller.

July 23—Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys.

Kerry Loehr, Leader. Kristen Jackson, Assistant.

Elizabeth Cole, John Creager, Prajwal Mohan, Roberta Zouain.

June 26—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/ East Ridge. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Robin Wilcox, Assistant. Alex Aguilar, Jeremiah Biddle, Lisa Hefel, Ariel Himmelstern, Evan Smith, Melissa Vidal.

July 10—Del Campo Peak, South Gully.

Bob Breivogel, Leader. Jack Kuo, Assistant.

Verna Burden, Lisa Hefel, Reuel Kurzet, Tatsuro Ogisu, Nhat Pham, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher.

June 26—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Christine Troy, Leader. Lynne Pedersen, Assistant.

Sohaib Haider, Chris Hamilton, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Anupama Kurpad, Daniel Miller, David Posada, Claire Vandevoorde.

July 10—Gothic Peak, East Side. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Jack Kuo, Assistant. Verna Burden, Lisa Hefel, Reuel Kurzet, Tatsuro Ogisu, Nhat Pham, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher.

June 19—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Suresh Sing, Assistant. Amit Abraham, Brooke Alyssa Carmen, Milton Diaz, Shiva Kiran, Choon CH Leong, Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Tejas Prakash, Nachiket Rajderkar, Cierra Santiago, Jenni Tan. June 23—Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Dirk Lakeman, Leader. Amy Brose, Assistant. Larry Beck, Elisabeth Clyne, Christopher Killmer, Sergey Kiselev.

June 27—Middle Sister, SE Ridge.

Greg Scott, Leader. Stacey Reding, Assistant.

Eloise Bacher, Peter Boag, Ebony Hall, Mateo Mengis, Hannah Wentz.

June 27—Mt. Adams, South Side. John Sterbis, Leader. Joe Preston, Assistant. Michael Dahlin, Anna Feigum, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher, Andy Robbins, Lynsey Tyler.

June 27—South Sister, Devil’s Lake.

Larry Beck, Leader. Lindsey Addison, Assistant.

Bryan Maurice Bravo, Eric Cross, Marty Lee Hinkle, Hamilton Koerv, Rebecca Lewis, Marla Molskness, Kristina Prosser, Randy Uhde.

July 2—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Long Ong, Leader. Mark Stave, Assistant. Peter Allen, Thomas Clarke, Darren Ferris, Marsha Fick, Josh Hay, Nhat Pham, Courtney Rust.

July 2—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Trey Schutrumpf, Leader. Aimee Filimoehala, Assistant.

Kyle Brown, Ann marie Caplan, Abraham Cissna, Anna Feigum, Mandi Reichmuth, Andy Robbins, Kristofel C. Simbajon, Chuck Smith.

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July 10—Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier.

Brinda Ganesh, Leader. Vaqas Malik, Assistant.

Aardra Athalye, Judith Baker, Anupama Kurpad, Anna Lio, Dawn Van Seggen, Ankush Varma.

July 12—Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge.

Julie Kentosh, Leader. Ian McCluskey, Assistant.

Teresa Dalsager, Lacey Jones, Sándor Lau, Courtney Rust, Terry Sayre, Travis Schweitzer, Kristofel Simbajon.

July 13—Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Kerry Loehr, Leader. Petra LeBaron Botts, Assistant. Eloise Bacher, Peter Boag, Kayla Miller, Thomas Owens, Evan Smith.

July 14—South Sister, Green Lakes.

Kerry Loehr, Leader. Petra LeBaron Botts, Assistant. Eloise Bacher, Peter Boag, Suvi Chisholm, Kayla Miller, Thomas Owens, Evan Smith.

July 15—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier.

Michael Levis, Leader. Ryan Reed, Assistant.

Elizabeth Cole, Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Joe Preston, Thomas Williams.

July 23—Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Guy Wettstein, Leader. Debbie Dwelle, Assistant. Marty Lee Hinkle, Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Kirk Newgard, Scott Stevenson, Thomas Williams.

July 23—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge.

Christine Troy, Leader. Toby Contreras, Assistant.

Mark Bauer, Brad Dewey, Benjamin Goff, Claire Vandevoorde.

July 25—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier.

Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Suresh Singh, Assistant. Amit Abraham, Jori Cachelin.

July 28—Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader. Jan-Erik Fougli, Assistant.

Torry Chen, Annika Fougli, Nancy Lloyd, Kathy Ragan, Terry Sayre.

July 29—South Early Winter Spire, South Arete. Andrew Leaf, Leader. Kelly Casad, Assistant. John Meckel, Lynne Pedersen.

July 31—Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier.

Tim Scott, Leader. Milton Diaz, Assistant.

Amit Abraham, Peter Boag, Heather Johnston, Kevin Kohberger, Andy Robbins.

July 31—Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge. Brinda Ganesh, Leader. Linda Mark, Assistant. Quanita Anwar, Josh C Moss, Kristofel Simbajon, Ankush Varma.

August 6—Mt. Thielsen, East Peak. Joe Whittington, Leader. Bill Lowder, Assistant. Truth Johnston, Elizabeth Kruse, Bill Lowder.

August 6—Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Gary Bishop, Leader. Jeremiah Biddle, Assistant. Elizabeth Cole, Kristina Prosser, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher, Lynsey Tyler.

August 7—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Shane Harlson, Leader.

Stephanie Nelson, Assistant. Kyle Brown, Amy Carlow, Cecilia Maria Dominguez, Sarah Marie Geoghan, Joshua Kulmac Butler, Melanie Means, Laetitia Ma. Pascal, Dolores Rincon.

August 14—Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier.

Julie Kentosh, Leader. Ian McCluskey, Assistant.

Scott Auble, Sándor Lau, Walker McAninchRunzi, Nhat Pham, Lynsey Tyler, Katie Zajicek.

August 14—Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail. Michael Levis, Leader. Verna Burden, Assistant. Drew Glassroth, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher, Kristofel Simbajon.

August 9—Ingalls Peak, South Face.

James Pitkin, Leader. Andy Nuttbrock, Assistant.

Derek Jahelka, Prajwal Mohan, Mark Stave, Jen Travers.

August 10—North Sister, South RidgeHayden Glacier. Kerry Loehr, Leader. Teresa Dalsager, Courtney Rust, Assistant. Jori Cachelin, Ken Cachelin, Sergey Kiselev, Del Profitt.

ESTATE GIFTS Earlier this month the Mazamas received a donation from the estate of Dick Pugh. Dick Pugh joined the Mazamas 1972, and had a long tenure of service at the Mazamas. He was a climb leader and prolific climber. We would like to recognize Dick as well as his family for this generous gift that will enable us to fulfill our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains.

Estate gifts provide a lasting legacy for you, and support education and activity

opportunities for future generations of Mazama community members. If you are interested in including the Mazamas in your estate planning, please reach out to Laura Burger, Development Coordinator. If the Mazamas is already a part of your planning, please let us know so we can make sure your gift is used as you envision it.

Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, lauraburger@mazamas.org, 502-227-2345.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 35

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES (Executive Council) JUNE 15, 2021 ATTENDING (ZOOM): Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Jesse Applegate, Reena Clements, Lori Coyner, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Staff: Sarah Bradham, Active Executive Director; Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager. Members: Robin Wilcox.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 4:02 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt.

■ Joe noted a quorum was present. Joe began by noting that the focus of the meeting would be on five agenda items outlined in the packet.

BUSINESS AGENDA ■ May Minutes: Approval of the minutes from the May meeting. Rick Amodeo made a motion to approve the minutes, Aimee Filimoehala seconded. Motion to approve passed by a unanimous voice vote.

■ Membership Report: Secretary Amanda Ryan-Fear noted 26 new members and 15 reinstated members for a net gain of 41 members over the previous month. To date membership is down 356 members year-over-year.

■ Discussion: Board members and Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director, discussed renewals, reinstatement fees, and membership benefits as inducements to spur renewals.

■ Treasurer’s Report: Treasurer Rick Amodeo updated the board on the current financial situation. Items of note from Rick’s report □ Searching for new bookkeeper □ Overall in a good cash position □ We can apply for forgiveness on our second PPP loan in mid-August. Finally, the organization is roughly four percent larger than it was at the start of the fiscal year.

■ Mazama Lodge Manager: Sarah introduced Kiki Sherard, the recently hired lodge manager. After a brief introduction, Kiki shared some of the work completed during a recent work day at the lodge. Volunteers helped deep clean the kitchen, during which they 36 MAZAMAS

pulled everything out, deep cleaned, sorted, and got rid of unneeded items.

■ DEI Committee update: Claire Nelson provided the board a brief update on the committee’s ongoing work: □ The committee’s work is critical to the future organizational goals □ The current focus will be on reviewing Mazama policies and procedures through a DEI lens. □ The committee will also look at ways to improve the scholarship process. □ The committee welcomed a new chair, Ebony Hall. □ The committee is exploring changing their name from DEI to JEDI □ Discussion: the board and Claire engaged in a discussion about the implications of changing the name, how to address the justice element, and how the name impacts mental health.

ACTING EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Sarah Bradham provided an update on current and ongoing efforts. Things of note beyond her written report included: □ She is working to identify trailhead or trail stewardship projects for Mazama volunteers that would offset permit fees. □ Central Cascades Permits continue to impact our ability to lead climbs, hikes, and backpacking trips in the new permit area. □ The Mazamas would benefit from a staffed Advocacy & Stewardship position to allow us to engage fully with Outdoor Alliance and national and regional advocacy efforts. □ The lack of a bridge on the trail to Ramona Falls continues to be a safety concern, and have reached out to USFS to discuss the issue and see if there are potential solutions being discussed. □ Confidential Records Management and Risk Management teams are making progress □ She ended by encouraging the board to monitor and engage when necessary on social media.

BYLAWS UPDATE ■ Vice President Amiee Filmoehala gave an update on the recent work done by the working group:

□ Compiled a list of lessons learned from the recent Bylaws Informational meeting. □ Another Informational meeting is scheduled for July, potentially with breakout rooms for member discussion. □ Three key takeaways from the meeting are the glaciated peak requirement, the addition of three new EC members, and the removal of the standing committees from the bylaws. □ Discussion: the board engaged in a wide ranging discussion related to the three takeaways from the first informational meeting. Items discussed include how the dissolution of the Foundation prompted one of the bylaws changes, if it doesn’t pass additional measures will need to be taken; the board needs additional insight/knowledge that it’s not getting from the membership (legal and financial background); the removal of the glaciated peak membership requirement has the potential to increase our membership; the prospect of dropping the standing committee and additional members proposed amendments from the October election was discussed, with the intent to stay focus on the the removal of the membership requirement. □ Aimee made a motion to remove the amendment to allow nonmember board members from the October election.

Rick seconded the motion. Motion passed. □ Joe made a motion to remove the amendment regarding the removal of inactive committees from the Bylaws.

Rick seconded. Motion passed. □ Judith Baker made a motion to remove the descriptive language associated with active committees in the Bylaws.

Aimee seconded. Motion passed.

EC POINT PERSON UPDATE ■ Rick and Bob updated the board on the EC point person proposal.

■ The board, in the May meeting, agreed to assign one board member to the following key committees: Climbing, Trail Trips, Lodge, and Education.

All other committees will have representation on a rotating basis.

■ Discussion: Joe asked if they had conferred with staff as they’d indicated they’d do at the May meeting. Bob remarked that staff input was not sought nor needed due to the current turnover.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE REPORT ■ Barbara Weiss, committee chair, gave an update on the recruitment process for board nominations. Overall it has been a difficult process. They were able to recruit four members to run, but two dropped out. We are at risk of an uncontested election if additional members can not be found to run.

■ The committee continues to advertise in the Bulletin ■ Will redouble efforts to find members with legal and financial background.

MEMBER COMMENT PERIOD ■ Robin Wilcox was on hand to provide comments to the board.

■ Her remarks focused on the proposed Bylaws Amendments and the DEI Committee.

MAZAMA WEBSITE AND DATABASE ■ Sarah led the board in a discussion about the current website, and the need to build an advisory team around prioritizing upgrades to the site. The website launched in 2018 and is now three years out from having substantive updates. We will need to continue to invest in the site if we want it to serve our ever changing needs and to be current with today’s expectations for functionality.

■ Joe Eberhardt adjourned the meeting at 6:15 p.m.

JULY 20, 2021 ATTENDING (ZOOM): Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Reena Clements, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Lori Coyner; Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director; Laura Burger, Development Coordinator.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 4:04 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt.

BUSINESS AGENDA ■ June 2021 Meeting Minutes: Joe presented the minutes from the June meeting. Judith Baker made a motion to pass and Bob Breivogel seconded.

■ Membership Report: Joe presented the membership report. There were a large number of new members in June. We are down 11-12 percent from last year. It is too early to identify if this is a permanent shift or not.

■ Sarah Bradham noted she would discuss this a bit more in her Acting Executive Director’s report. The 2021 membership year concluded on July 11 and we ended the year down 336 over the previous year. Sarah believes that there is an opportunity to offer prorated memberships during April-July.

■ Treasurer’s Report: The Treasurer’s report was presented by Jesse Applegate, who is filling in for Rick Amodeo. Jesse met with the Finance Committee to discuss how to make EC better involved and informed on the budget. Jesse will work on creating a report to highlight the difference month to month and a visual aid to highlight any trends or differences.

■ Sarah also wrote a short narrative about the financial notes and asked for feedback to make sure it is a useful way to deliver that information.

■ Aimee Filimoehala asked if this would be made public to the members, and Sarah noted that it could be but the EC should have a more in depth discussion about what information should be made public.

Jesse clarified that he envisioned more of a narrative than all the data presented in the board packets. Joe asked for Jesse to bring a narrative to the next meeting.

Judith believes that members would like to get a sense about the overall financial health of the organization.

■ Board Vacancy: With Rick Amodeo leaving, there is a vacancy on EC as well as the Treasurer position.

■ The Treasurer also sits on the Finance Committee and Investment Committee.

Joe nominated Jesse because of his previous experience on the Finance Committee. Bob seconded his nomination. The motion was passed unanimously.

■ Joe noted they have an ability to appoint someone to fill Rick’s last 15 months

left on EC. Joe nominated Aimee to roll over to Rick’s position. Aimee had been appointed to fill another member’s period and has two months remaining. If Aimee takes Rick’s position, her position would remain vacant for two months when that position would roll off and be filled by the three new candidates at the annual election. Aimee will need to resign from her current position, the board would make a motion to have her fill Rick’s position, and then make a motion for her to resume her Vice President role.

■ Sarah noted that because the upcoming election is uncontested that this is an appropriate process.

■ Aimee resigned from her current position as Vice President and from the board. Judith moved to appoint Aimee to fill Rick’s seat for his term and as Vice President for the remainder of this fiscal year. Reena Clements seconded, and the motion was approved unanimously.

ACTING EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Ending about $37,000 down from the budget projections from membership.

There are a lot of things that could be contributing to that. Laura Burger has created a renewal plan and timeline for 2022 renewals. The plan includes a mailed piece for all members, incentives for renewing early, a mailed piece for lapsed members, and a survey for lapsed members. This will be followed up with emailed campaigns and reminders. Dues coming in now are being deferred to the next fiscal year. Donations are not deferred.

■ Submitted the 990s for the Foundation and Mazamas last week. It will be quirky this year because Mazamas took in all the Foundation funds. Sarah will create a narrative for it to explain what happened with the Foundation transfers.

■ Fundraising campaign coming up with the renewal campaign. We received a donation of custom YETI mugs as an incentive gift to donors again this year.

■ We hired Katherine Rose as the Finance and Office Manager. Sarah is building out an onboarding plan for her to meet committees and volunteers.

continued on next page SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 37

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES CONT. (Executive Council) ■ FM101 is open after a hiatus and is oversubscribed with applications. SSI is having a slow start with applications.

ICS is also having a slow start with applications, likely due to an involved application process. Canyoneering will have a small class size and is aware of keeping costs low with decreased revenue.

■ Sarah is expecting to see mask requirements come back with the increase in COVID cases. She will discuss potential changes for education programming at the next committee chair meeting, specifically limiting class auditing. Joe asked if we would potentially offer more Mazama masks in our merch and Sarah would consider it.

■ Treasurer Follow Up: Joe noted that we need an additional volunteer of the Finance Committee for the remainder for the fiscal year, and Bob volunteered to fill that position.

BYLAWS UPDATE ■ Aimee presented. The voter guide went to print yesterday, and everyone who submitted a comment was included.

There are two information sessions in August, one virtual and one at the MMC. The MMC session will have tables with volunteers having conversations about the proposed changes. Aimee noted that they need two volunteers not from the Bylaws Committee to help at that event on August 25. Joe volunteered and Aimee will send an email to find another volunteer. The ballot and election will be launched using the same format as last year and Nominating Committee will oversee the election process.

MOUNTAIN EDUCATION ALLIANCE UPDATE ■ Matt Sundling called in to give a brief overview and update on the MEA project.

The next steps for Mazamas is to get some people certified with the standards, and hope to certify four or five people at a certification weekend. They are also planning another training activity and recruiting people who will then use their skills at Mazamas. They are also planning a training and assessment for Spring 2022. There will be an informal monthly gathering for anyone interested in the national standards through 38 MAZAMAS

Mazamas, and are picking a date soon.

He has had a lot of positive feedback and enthusiasm from potential participants.

The first assessment will be top rope and traditional climbing standard. There are two candidates trained for sport climbing who are delaying assessment until this spring.

BUDGET 2021 ■ Sarah gave a high level overview of the budget process so far. Sarah expects the budget to be ready for review. All committees have been contacted and most have been engaged in the process.

Major things of note: □ The Lodge is a large unknown. Kiki just managed a 50 person camp on her own, and it is not sustainable. Will need to invest in staffing to sustain those camps. Kiki is concerned about wear and tear on the Lodge. Sarah will be working with Kiki and Brook from the Lodge Committee to make a better plan on how to utilize it. We also need to think through if camps are a good use of the Lodge moving forward. □ Mazama WILD got lucky with two very good camp managers who managed to find enough staff to support camp this summer. Sarah believes we need a year round staff member to oversee youth programs. Our managers have found a way to increase the number of kids we can enroll. Next year we will most likely cut before and after care.

One camp manager has some potential ideas to bring Mazama youth programs into schools. Youth programs are also a great grant and donor revenue stream.

Bob pointed out that he would like youth programs to be self financed and not operating on a deficit. Sarah noted that it currently does not run a deficit, but to continue to deliver quality programming we will need to hire a staff person.

REOPENING PLAN ■ The swing shift style is not sustainable, and Sarah suggests we shift open hours to closer to 9 a.m.–5 p.m. This would require committees to be more self managed for meetings and events in the evening. We have made a volunteer position for an evening greeter. Joe requested that we may have someone

on call to help with access issues. Sarah’s recommendation would be to close the MMC on Fridays as well. Keeping full time at 36 hours a week would save money for hourly employees.

■ Looking at a full load of classes for next year. MEA most likely won’t be a revenue source but won’t be a drain either. Looking at being a provider for AIARE courses, which we will have to do if we want to continue to offer classes.

There is a cost associated with it, but we have been successful with providing the classes for the community. There is a very high demand for these classes and both of ours filled last year.

■ If we continue youth programming, we should investigate transportation options as well as insurance options.

PAF ■ With the uncertainty with COVID, Sarah is hesitant to rent a space. She suggested we could do a modified version at the MMC which would be lower cost and less risky. Joe asked if there was potential to also use the Lodge. Sarah said we could use it, we would just have to create some programming around it specifically.

Aimee agreed she likes the idea of doing something this year and that people would be excited to interact with their community.

■ The Oregon Outdoors coalition is out for next year. The name usage added to our legal bills are done. Mazamas is not in the position to fiscally sponsor a coalition at the moment. If something like this comes up again, we need better financial projections prior to committing.

■ The goal is to have the budget be zero deficit.

MEMBER COMMENT PERIOD ■ There were no members present for the comment period.

■ Joe Eberhardt adjourned the meeting at 5:38 p.m.

Support the Mazamas and Help Us Inspire Everyone to Love and Protect the Mountains!

RECURRING GIFTS Donate monthly, quarterly, or annually with an automa�c recurring dona�on. Click “make this a monthly recurring dona�on” when giving online, or contact us directly to set up a custom giving plan.

ONE-TIME GIFTS Donate at any �me through our website, or mail a dona�on to the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

$$

EMPLOYER MATCHING GIFTS Make your dona�on or volunteer hours go further with help from your workplace!

Employers like Apple, Microso�, and many others will match your dona�on or volunteer hours with a dona�on directly to the Mazamas.

PLANNED GIVING Gi�s of stock, IRA distribu�ons, and charitable gi� annui�es can all create a las�ng impact at Mazamas while giving you important financial benefits as well.

ESTATE GIFTS Estate gi�s create a las�ng legacy for you and opportuni�es for future genera�ons of Mazamas. If your estate plan already includes the Mazamas, please let us know so we can make sure it will be used as you envision it. Thank you!

Reach out to Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, for more informa�on about any of these op�ons and to help you create a personalized plan. laura@mazamas.org · 971-420-2505 · www.mazamas.org/DONATE

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 39

Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org

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JOIN OR RENEW YOUR MEMBERSHIP TODAY! Get membership details on page 14 and join today at mazamas.org/join

Mazama Alex Malozemoff on the way from Mt Olympus, Olympic National Park. Photo: Michal Podhradsky.