Mazama Magazine October 2017

October 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 10

Bulletin

Portland Alpine Fest Schedule Meet the PAFletes Memories of the Columbia River Gorge Evening Travel Programs Return

We are the bond stronger than any rope.

Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.

NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT

GORGE MEMORIES

GET TO KNOW OUR PAFLETES

Katie Bono: Testing Limits, p. 13

Marcus Garcia: Before I was a Badass, p. 14

Graham Zimmerman: The Only Way is Up, p. 18

MAZAMA MYTHS

Dawn Glanc: Falling Hard for Climbing, p. 20

FEATURES Priority List for USFS Burned Area Emergency Response Team, p. 5 Portland Alpine Fest Schedule, p. 8 PAFletes, p. 12 Mazama Myths: Setting the Record Straight, p. 16 Pack It in, Pack it Out: Plastics at the MMC, p. 17 Gorge Memories, p. 28

MONTHLY COLUMNS Volunteer, p. 6 Events & Activities, p. 6 Successful Climbers, p. 7 Evening Programs, p. 23 Outings, p. 25 AYM, p. 26

Mazama Lodge, p. 27 Classics, p. 27 Membership Report, p. 33 Trail Trips, p. 34 Obituaries, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 37

ADVERTISER INDEX

MAZAMA STAFF LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager, mathew@mazamas.org

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator renee@mazamas.org

SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Membership & Development Coordinator, laura@mazamas.org

CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager claire@mazamas.org

ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justin@mazamas.org

MATTIE COURTRIGHT Marketing & Events Coordinator mattie@mazamas.org

CONTACT US

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org |Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-2729214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Adidas Outdoor, p. 19 Airflare, p. 21 Green Trails, p. 22 Grivel, p. 12 Edelweiss, p. 33 Embark Exploration Co., p. 33 Julbo, p. 20 LaSportiva, p. 32 Montbell, p. 38

Mountain Hardwear, p. 21 Next Adventure, p. 16 The Mountain Shop, p. 32 OMC, p. 24 Planet Granite, p. 40 Rab, p. 2 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 35 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazamabulletin@mazamas.org) Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: PAFlete Aaron Mulkey (Grivel) on Super Fly, M8, Pilot Creek, Wyoming. Photo: Nathan Smith (pullphotography.com)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the

14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

OCTOBER 2017 3

While Gorge Fire Still Burns, Healing Begins Dear Members & Friends,

W

e were extremely saddened by the fire that raged on through our beloved Columbia River Gorge starting in early September. The trails, waterfalls, foliage, and fauna in the gorge are significant to the Mazamas and to our community. Every year we collectively hike thousands of miles in the gorge— exploring its beauty, relishing in its lushness, and training our legs. Last year alone thousands of people participated in Mazama activities and classes in the gorge and hiked more than 10,000 miles on the trails.

We have heard from so many of you already about your deep personal connection with the area and the strong emotions you are feeling as this fire continues to burn.

As of the writing of this article, and due to the amazing work of the firefighters, rescue and road crews, and many others, the fire is nearly half contained. Recent cooler temperatures and rains have also helped. The focus remains on continued fire suppression and the safety of the people, animals, and structures that are in harm’s way. The firefighters, first responders, and all of the support teams continue their efforts to bring this fire under control. Thanks to their strong effort, Multnomah Falls Lodge and many other homes and nearby structures survived the fire.

When the fire is extinguished the time will come to assess the damage and determine next steps. We are working actively to coordinate with the US Forest Service (USFS) and our partners to assess the impacts, feasible and effective response actions, and how the Mazamas can take a leadership role in repairing the damage. Once the restoration picture shapes up, you will be the first to know how you can join us and other teams.

The fire is going to create instability in the area with many hazard trees and threats of rock fall and landslides. In talking with the USFS and other agencies, it seems likely that some areas will be closed to public access for a while before any restoration or rehabilitation efforts can begin.

NOT SURE WHERE TO HIKE? 4 MAZAMAS

As the fire becomes more contained, the next priority will be emergency stabilization of the area to prevent further damage to property, life, or our natural resources. This work is managed through a USFS program called the Burned Area Emergency Response program, (see inset on BAER) which starts before the fire is completely out and will likely continue for up to a year.

Longer term rehabilitation efforts will begin once the fire is completely out and will continue for several years. We have already seen individual efforts underway to organize volunteers for tree-plantings and other restoration work. Not all areas will be ready for re-planting for some time depending on how hot the fire was in each area.

Our partners at the Trail Keepers of Oregon are collecting a master list of volunteers to help with future efforts and are working closely with the Mazamas, the PCTA, and the USFS to coordinate future efforts. If you want to help by volunteering in the field, please sign up on the TKO website.

We promise you that the Mazamas will be active in the recovery of the gorge and will be poised to give back to this area that we hold so dear. When the time comes for action, we look forward to working alongside any of you who want to be a part of that effort.

And finally, while this is a time of adversity, let's not lose sight of hope. The gorge has experienced fire before and has come back.

The area will be changed, but we, and all of our partners, are confident that the gorge will continue to be a place of solace and beauty and adventure for us all.

Lee Davis Mazamas Executive Director

Since it will likely be some time before trails in the gorge are safe to use Trail Trips, AYM, and Classics hike leaders have been busy finding other routes near to Portland to explore.

See their recommendations on the listed hikes at the end of the Bulletin, and keep track of updates on mazamas.org/hike.

The Mazama Library is also a treasure-trove of hiking books and guides to the lesser-known gems around our area. Check out our catalog here before heading to the MMC: mazamaslibrary.org

PRIORITY LIST FOR

USFS BURNED AREA EMERGENCY RESPONSE TEAM

Excerpted from the USFS Burned Area Emergency Response (BAER) website: tinyurl.com/usfsbaer The Burned Area Emergency Response (BAER) program is designed to address these emergency situations through its key goals of protecting life, property, and critical natural and cultural resources. The objective of the BAER program is to determine the need for and to prescribe and implement emergency treatments on Federal Lands to minimize threats to life or property resulting from the effects of a fire or to stabilize and prevent unacceptable degradation to natural and cultural resources.

While many wildfires cause minimal damage to the land and pose few threats to the land or people downstream, some fires cause damage that requires special efforts to prevent problems afterwards. Loss of vegetation exposes soil to erosion; water runoff may increase and cause flooding; sediments may move downstream and damage houses or fill reservoirs putting endangered species and community water supplies at risk.

After a fire the first priority is emergency stabilization in order to prevent further damage to life, property or natural resources. The stabilization work begins before the fire is out and may continue for up to a year. The longer-term rehabilitation effort to repair damage caused by the fire begins after the fire is out and continues for several years. Rehabilitation focuses on the lands unlikely to recover naturally from wildland fire damage.

BAER teams are staffed by specially trained professionals: hydrologists, soil scientists, engineers, biologists, vegetation specialists, archeologists, and others who rapidly evaluate the burned area and prescribe emergency stabilization treatments. A BAER assessment usually begins before the wildfire has been fully contained.

In most cases, only a portion of the burned area is actually treated. Severely burned areas, very steep slopes, places where water runoff will be excessive, fragile slopes above homes, businesses, municipal water supplies, and other valuable facilities are focus areas. The treatments must be installed as soon as possible, generally before the next damaging storm. Time is critical if treatments are to be effective.

There are a variety of emergency stabilization techniques that the BAER team might recommend. Reseeding of ground cover with quick-growing or native species, mulching with straw or chipped wood, construction of straw, rock or log dams in small tributaries, and placement of logs to catch sediment on hill slopes are the primary stabilization techniques used. The team also assesses the need to modify road and trail drainage mechanisms by installing

debris traps, modifying or removing culverts to allow drainage to flow freely, adding additional drainage dips and constructing emergency spillways to keep roads and bridges from washing out during floods.

BAER assessment plans and implementation are often a cooperative effort between federal agencies (Forest Service, Natural Resources Conservation Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Indian Affairs, U.S. Geological Survey), and state, tribal and local forestry and emergency management departments. They are closely coordinated with private landowners.

BAER EMERGENCY STABILIZATION & REHABILITATION What BAER may do

What rehabilitation may do

Install water or erosion control devices.

Plant for erosion control or stability reasons.

Replant commercial forests or grass for forage.

Install erosion control measures at critical cultural sites.

Excavate and interpret cultural sites.

Install temporary barriers to protect treated or recovering areas.

Replace burned pasture fences.

Install warning signs.

Install interpretive signs.

Replace minor safety related facilities.

Replace burned buildings, bridges, corrals, etc.

Install appropriate-sized drainage features on roads, trails.

Repair roads damaged by floods after fire.

Remove critical safety hazards.

Prevent permanent loss of T&E habitat.

Replace burned wildlife habitat.

Monitor BAER treatments.

Monitor fire effects.

Plant grass to prevent spread of noxious weeds.

Treat pre-existing noxious weed infestations.

OCTOBER 2017 5

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES HIKE LEADER TRAINING OCT. 16 OR NOV. 6, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MMC All of our 100+ Trail Trip leaders are volunteers! If you would like to be one of them, it’s easy to get started. Contact Bill Stein, Trail Trips committee chair at trailtrips@mazamas.org.

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES ADVANCED ROCK Are you ready for the 2018 Mazama Advanced Rock/ Beginning Trad class? Information about requirements, applying, the schedule, and other details is now available at tinyurl.com/maz-advancedrock. The application period will open on Dec. 1.

We are looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e., Wilderness First Responder or equivalent. Instructors will work with the First Aid Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum. Email firstaid@mazamas.org if you are interested.

OUTREACH TEAM MEMBERS The Mazamas are looking for a team of 5–20 active, engaged, and energetic volunteers to join our team of outreach volunteers. Responsibilities include representing the Mazamas at 2–4 events per year that align with our mission and reach people who might be interested in Mazama membership, activities, or events. We’ll provide you with a 1 hour training on how to set up and manage a table at these events. If interested, email sarah@mazamas.org.

MAZAMA COMMITTEES NEED YOU Are you interested in helping the Mazamas plan and expand on our first-class trips, activities or classes? The committees below need your support. Positions and time commitments vary; contact Justin Rotherham, Mazamas Education & Activities Program Manager, at justin@mazamas.org to discuss the open position that might be best for you! ▶▶ Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) ▶▶ Classics ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Trail Trips

PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL The Portland Alpine Fest is the biggest event that the Mazamas host each year. This festival takes place over 5 days, and we need a team of volunteers to make it all possible.

There are a variety of roles available. Please complete the interest form at tinyurl.com/maz-volunteering today!

LANDSCAPE COORDINATOR Work with volunteers to keep the MMC property pruned, mowed, weeded, and safe. Whether you know your way around a garden tool shed or are looking to learn, write to facilities@mazamas.org to find out more!

6 MAZAMAS

Larry Buzan belayed by Francisco Villa on the Left Side of the Beard at Smith Rock at AR 2017. Photo: Kim Edger

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS OCT. 25, NOV. 28 5–8 P.M. AT THE MMC An open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls with a focus on helping your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere to encourage kids. Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults. ▶▶ Cost: $2 per person/$5 max per family. ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL NOV. 14–18 The Portland Alpine Fest is back! Tickets are available at portlandalpinefest.org. We have a stellar line-up of athletes coming to Portland to teach clinics, seminars, and host events throughout the city.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS Aug. 12, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Tracie Weitzman. Amy Brose, Fred Dalsager, Teresa Dalsager, Ralph Daub, Denara Goble, Evin Kohberger, Thomas Mynes, Rebecca Silverman.

Aug. 12, North Sister, South Ridge. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Alex Lockard. Andrew Bodien, Matt Krueger, Whitney Lindahl, Linda Man, Walker McAninch-Runzi, John Nuttbrock, Gary Riggs, Suresh Singh.

Aug. 17, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Seeger Fisher. Pamela Bishop, Elizabeth Camp.

Aug. 17, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Stacey Reding. David Acton, Howard Buck, Tarun Gudz, Bill Guiffre, Julie Kentosh, Stan Meeuwsen, Vince Micallef, Jolen Anya Minetz.

Aug. 18, Mt. Buckner, North Face. Leader: Eric Brainich, Asst: Kirsten Isakson. Anna Buckley, Aaron Sieczkowski.

Aug. 19, Pyramid Peak, Standard. Leader: Elizabeth Copeland, Asst: Karen Graves. Scott Britell, Andrew Leaf, Nancy Lloyd.

Aug. 19, Copper & Iron Mt., Tahoma Creek Trail. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Morgan Harvey.

Melissa Crest, Brad Eriksen, Ardel Frick, Marjorie Hendryx, Marti McCleskey, Josha Moss, Jill Reynolds, Joan Wallace.

DID YOU KNOW? In 2018 the Mazamas will be launching an entirely new website that will eliminate the 41 year old climb card procedure!

The new website will allow you to create a Mazama profile that will include your contact information, training history, and climbing history (both Mazama and nonMazama)—all information that you currently have to enter onto a climb card.

You’ll apply for climbs and be accepted via the new online system.

Keep your eye out for details on what to do with your old climb cards.

Aug. 19, South Sister, Green Lakes. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Scott Aubel. David Acton, Fiona Connors, Rebecca Corcoran, Tarun Gudz, Julie Kentosh, Sandor Lau, Jolen Anya Minetz, Martin Rio. Aug. 20, South Sister, Green Lakes. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Mark Curran. Eric Dattoli, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Blair Grimmer, Cynthia House, Jack Kuo, Joseph York.

Aug. 20, Mt. Ararat, Kautz Creek. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Morgan Harvey. Melissa Crest, Ardel Frick, Marjorie Hendryx, Marti McCleskey, Josha Moss, Jill Reynolds, Joan Wallace.

Aug. 20, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Sandor Lau. David Acton, Scott Auble, Fiona Connors, Tarun Gudz, Julie Kentosh, Jolen Anya Minetz, Martin Rio. Aug. 23, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Eric Hoem. Tom E. Bennett, Frode Groedahl, Victor Halaas, Anja Michaelis, Sven Michaelis, Joh Arne Oren, Inka Schmaus.

Aug. 25, South Early Winter Spire, South Arete. Leader: Robin Wilcox, Asst: Tracie Weitzman.

Jesse Applegate, Lynny Brown, Melinda Hugo, Lucas Norris.

Aug. 25, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Howie Davis, Asst: Gary Bishop. Anne Boeder, Clinton Carpenter, Joanne Emerson, Nimesh Patel, Katrin Valdre.

Aug. 26, Old Snowy, Goat Lake. Leader: Eugene Lewins, Asst: Lisa Bordner. Christine Hadekel, Francheska Snyder, Sarah Will.

Aug. 26, South Early Winter Spire, South Arete. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Matthew Bailie.

Michael Church, Laura Guderyahn, James Pitkin.

Aug. 26, Plummer and Denman Peaks, Reflection Lake. Leader: Teresa Redman, Asst: Elizabeth Copeland. Bri Berglund, Alyssa Chee, Nancy Gadd, Carl Gibson, Patrick Hennessy, George Mercure, Lindsay Pyrch, Jonathan Sarko, Kathleen Scanlan.

Aug. 26, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: April Wolstencroft. Gibbs Gibson, Nick Hershman, Oksoon Mora, Rae-Leigh Stark, Lee Tintary.

Aug. 26, West MacMillan Spire, Terror Glacier.

Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Michael Levis. Larry Buzan, Karthik Jambunathan, Kaitlin Rupert.

Aug. 26, Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Leader: Robin Wilcox, Asst: Jesse Applegate. Lynny Brown, Melinda Hugo, Lucas Norris, Tracie Weitzman.

Aug. 29, Paul Bunyan's Stump, South Face.

Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Shirley Welch. Ellen Gradison, Tim Hale, Linda E. Mark.

Aug. 30, Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier.

Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Ellen Gradison, Tim Hale, Linda E. Mark.

Aug. 30, Mt. McNeely, West Ridge. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Kate Evans. Bertie Aug., Charles Brasher, Flora Huber, Ed Johnson, Wes McNamara, Larry Murry, Jeanne Shults.

Sept. 3, Borah Peak (ID), Chicken Out Ridge.

Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Andrew Leaf. David J. Church, Karen Graves, Heather Johnston, Erika Markel, Courtney Rust.

Sept. 3, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Aimee Shoemaker. Deepa Chetty, Ronald F. Earp, John Gist, Jenifer Halter, Hanka Manova, John Pasikowski.

Sept. 3, Clark Mountain/Luahna Peak, Clark/ Walrus Glacier. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Matthew Bell. Christopher Corless, Shemuel Harding, Linda Musil.

Sept. 9, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wal. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Jesse Applegate. Craig Karls, Andy Nuttbrock, Lynne Pedersen, Bianca Pyko.

Sept. 9, Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse.

Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Rachel Seibert.

Thomas Bode, Stephanie Hart, Jennifer Perchonok, Allison Richey, Sweeney Verma.

Sept. 10, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Ellen Gradison, Asst: Joe Powell. Alexander Danielson, Ritchie Farmer, Kevin Kohberger, Alex Lockard.

Sept. 10, Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse.

Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Antonio Tatum.

Pamela Bishop, Joshua Hay, Britt Hoover, Matt Lewis, Satyaprakash Nanda, Ashish Shavarna, Jeffrey Sullivan.

Sept. 16, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Andrew Leaf. Melissa Crest, Robert McKay, Marti McCleskey, Brenda Richardson, David Richardson, Francheska Snyder, Jun Wang.

Sept. 16, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Shane Harlson, Asst: Teresa Redman. Pranava Alekal, Marsha Fick, Stephanie Hart, Rebecca Lewis, Hanka Manova, Jennifer Perchonok, Lindsay Pyrch, Greg Robillard, Adrian Smith, Zsuzsanna Vida.

Sept. 19, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Mark Curran. Eric Dattoli, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Blair Grimmer, Cynthia House, Jack Kuo, Joseph York.

Aug. 26, Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir. Leader: Michael Hortsch, Asst: Robert Sinnott. Ghislain Gressard, Kimberly Hefty, Jeff Nastoff, Chaitanya Sathe, Trey Schutrumpf, Roger Sharp, Jun Wang.

Aug. 27, Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Matthew Bailie. Michael Church, Laura Guderyahn, James Pitkin.

OCTOBER 2017 7

Katie Bono

Portland Alpine Fest NOV. 13–18

Plan to join us for the 5th Annual Portland Alpine Fest! We have a great lineup planned with something to suit everyone who loves to play in the mountains!

Marcus Garcia Dawn Glanc

John Long Aaron Mulkey

NOV. 18: The SUMMIT: An Evening with Katie Bono, Jess Roskelley, and John Long. The BIGGEST night of the festival! You’ll enjoy exciting presentations from these amazing climbers, huge raffle buckets with amazing gear from our sponsors, vendor fair, and more!

NOV. 17: 12th Annual PORTLAND ICE COMP at Planet Granite. New location, same great competition. You can either put your skills to the test on the walls or come out to enjoy the fun!

ALL WEEK: CLINICS offer 3-hour, hands-on sessions with an athlete. Clinics are limited to 10 people to maximize your instructional time with the athlete.

ALL WEEK: SEMINARS are 3 hours and are lecturestyle with a larger group with an athlete.

Jess Roskelley Chris Wright

Graham Zimmerman

ALL WEEK: EVENING EVENTS including a movie premier and speaker series. There are 6 different evening events to choose from during the festival.

Get tickets now at:

portlandalpinefest.org 8 MAZAMAS

PAF Schedule MONDAY, NOV. 13 ADVENTURE & INSPIRATION: A NIGHT AT THE MOVIES 6:30–9 p.m. at Lucky Lab NW We are going to kick off PAF week with a get together at the Lucky Lab Northwest to experience a handful of short-films celebrating mountain recreation. This event is co-hosted with REI.

TUESDAY, NOV. 14 HAM & EGGS: BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center After spending a few seasons ice climbing, Rebecca Madore and Katie Mills used their Mazamas Alpine Adventure Grant to travel to the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaskan Range to test their mettle on the classic route Ham and Eggs on the Moose's Tooth.

Rebecca Madore on Ham & Eggs. Photo: Katie Mills

FRIDAY, NOV. 15 WOMEN'S INTRO TO ICE CLIMBING 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center You will learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. You will have access to a variety of tools and learn techniques to use them. Instructor: Dawn Glanc EFFICIENCY IN MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite Also offered on Nov. 16 In this clinic we will cover some strategies for approaching longer routes with confidence and moving quickly. We’ll cover the finer points of efficient rope management and transitions, as well as more advanced techniques like simul-climbing and short-fixing. Whether on rock, ice or snow, we’ll learn how to cover more ground and move with the efficiency of a pro. Instructor: Chris Wright CAPTURING THE MOMENT 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center More and more of us are heading to the hills with our cameras in tow, looking to capture these defining moments both in still shots and in video. In this seminar you’ll learn from a pro, including everything from what equipment to take on what climbs to how to charge your gear in basecamp. This seminar is appropriate for beginning and advanced photographers/videographers.

Instructor: Graham Zimmerman CRACK CLIMBING 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite Also offered on Nov. 16 This clinic will teach the most important movements in traditional climbing. A hint on a few of the skills to be covered: varying hand/ finger techniques, how to jam without pain, new footwork concepts, and tricks for efficiency. Instructor: Dawn Glanc

INTRO TO MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ICE 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center This class will break down the micro movements that are needed to help you understand movement. Video will be used to help you see what is taken place as you make moves. The video helps you see where the breakdown of the movement is. Then it can be corrected and help you gain success on your next project or outing.

Instructor: Marcus Garcia INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ROCK 6–9 p.m. at Planet Granite Also offered on Nov. 17 You have been climbing rock for a while but feel as though you have hit a plateau and want to push to the next level. This class will teach you the secrets to efficient movement as well as some specific training tips. We’ll break down your moves into micro movements to help you understand what muscle groups are used for certain moves. This will help you learn your weaknesses and how you can work on them.

Instructor: Marcus Garcia OBJECTIVE UNKNOWN: A CLIMBING ADVENTURE IN PAKISTAN 6:30–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Have you ever set off for a climb without knowing exactly what you were going to climb? Or even where you were going? Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman, 2016 Mazama Bob Wilson Grant recipients, will share their recent experience in Pakistan with us tonight, in addition to discussing some of their previous exploits in the mountains as a team.

continued on next page OCTOBER 2017 9

PAF Schedule, continued from previous page WEDNESDAY, NOV. 15 SIERRA HIGH ROUTE TRAVERSE 6:30–8 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Portland-based endurance athletes Willie McBride, Brian Donnelly, and Jeff Boggess set out northbound on the Sierra High Route, traveling nearly 200 miles from Road’s End in King’s Canyon National Park to Twin Lakes just north of Yosemite National Park in 8 long days. With an average elevation of 10,000 ft. and over half the route navigating off-trail through isolated, rarelytraveled terrain, the SHR is a true test of endurance, mental fortitude and all-around mountain skills, and this trip was no exception.

THURSDAY, NOV. 16 INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED ICE & MIXED TECHNIQUES 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Also offered on Nov. 17 & 18 Learn advanced techniques to improve the fun factor/efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide you through the steeper stuff.

Additionally, learn techniques to move through the terrain when the ice gets thin or simply disappears. Mastering the skills in this clinic can potentially open doors to new, longer, and more technical venues in vertical world. Instructor: Chris Wright INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ICE 8–11 a.m. at The Source The micro-movements are used to help you understand what muscle groups are used for certain moves. Tool position and body position is broken down to understand why the tool is used in a certain way.

Video is used to show the relationship between the tool placement and the body position. A series of advanced moves will be set up and the movement broken down into isolation. Instructor: Marcus Garcia CRACK CLIMBING 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite

See description under Nov. 15 class. Instructor: Dawn Glanc

ADVANCED MIXED CLIMBING AND DRY TOOLING 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center This clinic will range from low angle to the mega steep. These techniques will allow you to climb faster in the mountains as well as crank out to the lips of caves to reach dangling icicles. We will be getting hands-on with a variety of types of tools and techniques for using them. Get ready to learn how to efficiently climb rock with crampons on your feet and tools in your hands, as well as how to conserve energy and effectively protect mixed pitches.

Instructor: Graham Zimmerman INTRO TO MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ROCK 1–4 p.m. at The Source This class will break down the micro movements that are needed to help you increase your efficiency. Video will be utilized to help you see what is taking place as you move on the wall. You’ll go over your video with Marcus and learn where your movement is breaking down. You can then learn the techniques to make corrections to help you gain success on your next project or outing. Instructor: Marcus Garcia EFFICIENCY IN MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING 6–9 p.m. at Planet Granite See description under Nov. 15 class. Instructor: Graham Zimmerman INTRO TO ICE & MIXED CLIMBING 6–9 p.m. at the MMC Also offered on Nov. 18 You will learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. You will have access to a variety of tools and learn techniques to use them. Instructor: Chris Wright THE MIXTRESS 6:30–9 p.m. at Patagonia Tonight Dawn Glanc will debut The Mixtress in Portland. This short film details the evolution of mixed climbing in North America, and the story is told through the eyes of the woman who shaped the sport into what it is today. Kitty Calhoun, Kim Csizmazia, Sarah Hueniken, Jen Olsen, Dawn Glanc, and Katie Bono are the women who bring the story of mixed climbing to life. This film will inspire you to pick up some ice tools and start scratching around. Dawn is the producer of the film and will both introduce the film and talk about her experience bringing this story to the screen after the film. This event is co-hosted with Patagonia Portland.

10 MAZAMAS

FRIDAY, NOV. 17 ANCHORS FOR THE MODERN AGE 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Also offered on Nov. 18 This is your opportunity to hear from the man who literally wrote the book on anchors. There is a lot of information and misinformation out there about anchors.

How do you learn to spot the good from the bad, and what are your priorities in the roped safety system? In this seminar, John will talk about what really matters in building anchors and keeping a team secure on climbs.

Instructor: John Long INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ROCK 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite See description under Nov. 15 class.

Instructor: Marcus Garcia

INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED ICE & MIXED TECHNIQUES 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center See description under Nov. 16 class.

Instructor: Dawn Glanc INTRO TO ICE & MIXED CLIMBING 1–4 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center See description under Nov. 16 class.

Instructor: Chris Wright WOMEN'S CLIMBING TECHNIQUES 1–4 p.m. at The Source Build confidence to overcome mental obstacles and learn to climb like a master with minimal energy expended so you can delay feeling pumped and climb hard

routes all day and night. Learn efficient climbing technique tricks and tips from the first woman in the USA to climb M11+ and co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing, Dawn Glanc. This class is geared to help women, especially those looking to take their climbing to the next level.

Instructor: Dawn Glanc PORTLAND ICE COMP 6–10 p.m. at Planet Granite Now in its 12th year the Portland Ice Comp is changing it up in a new location. Participants will have the opportunity to tackle a new challenge at Planet Granite while vying for great prizes as they put their skills to the test against the local climbing community. Sign up to compete or come on out as a spectator to watch the fun go down.

SATURDAY, NOV. 18 THE SUMMIT

5:30–10 p.m. at Revolution Hall Come see John Long, Katie Bono, and Jess Roskelley as they share their experiences in the mountains with you. In addition to their stories, you’ll also have the opportunity to talk to a variety of reps from companies producing outdoor gear and providing outdoor experiences, and enjoy tasty food from some local vendors. There will be raffle prizes, door prizes, and an opportunity to get your name entered into a drawing.

INTRO TO ICE/MIXED CLIMBING 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center See description under Nov. 16 class.

Instructor: Aaron Mulkey ANCHORS FOR THE MODERN AGE 8–11 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center See description under Nov. 17 class.

Instructor: John Long INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED ICE & MIXED CLIMBING NOON–3 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center See description under Nov. 16 class.

Instructor: Aaron Mulkey

PREPARING & TRAINING FOR EXPEDITION CLIMBING 9 a.m.–Noon at the Mountain Shop Katie Bono has been on more than a few expeditions, most recently setting the women's speed record on Denali. It takes a lot of planning to set yourself up for success on an expedition. Katie will share with you her tips and techniques on how to streamline your expedition planning so that the majority of focus can be on the fun stuff—the actual climbing! Instructor: Katie Bono

Photo: Lacey Gibbet

Get tickets now at:

portlandalpinefest.org OCTOBER 2017 11

AARON MULKEY WORKING ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF SUPER FLY M8, PILOT CREEK, WYOMING

RAGE WITH THE

MACHINE Distributed in the United States by Liberty Mountain For a dealer near you call 1-888.90.CLIMB Photo ©Nathan Smith - www.pullphotography.com

12 MAZAMAS

FESTIVAL

ALPINE

PORTLAND

PAFLETES HOW THEY STARTED OUT, AND WHAT GETS THEM EXCITED NOW.

W

e are extremely proud to have such an amazing lineup of athletes coming to Portland for this years' Portland Alpine Festival. Their varied expertise and experiences will be sure to amaze everyone who comes to The Summit and also those lucky enough to get into one of their clinics and seminars.

This is part one of two features getting to know more about the PAFletes. From humble beginnings to giant summits, here's a little bit of how they got started and what they are up to now.

We hope this gets you psyched to come and hang out with such an inspiring group of doers. At the Mazamas, we always reach for our own personal heights, and these athletes strive to do the same every day.

TESTING LIMITS WITH KATIE BONO

by Jonathan Barrett

K

atie Bono grew up as a cross country ski racer, and self-identifies as a climber/athlete as a result. It is an attitude and point of view that helped create her most publicly visible climbing achievements: women’s speed records on both Rainier and Denali. However, it is her unbridled enthusiasm for climbing that has carried her forward and opened many doors for her.

Continued on next page OCTOBER 2017 13

Katie Bono, continued from previous page

At Dartmouth, where she went to college, there was an overlap between the Nordic skiers and the climbers. It was through those connections that she found her own passion for climbing.

In the summer of 2008, between her sophomore and junior year, she went with friends to climb her first multipitch, Dolomite Wall on Cannon. The route sees few ascents, perhaps because one guide to the area describes it as, “one of the more challenging and exposed free climbs on Cannon. Runouts, micro wires, and loose rock are the norm.”

When she left the base, she thought to herself that she didn’t need a headlamp.

Ultimately she and her friends had a minor epic when time ran out and she discovered that “sharing” a headlamp ostensibly means walking down in the dark. While some might have been scared off, Katie was hooked by the experience. She continued to learn and grow as climber, and she fed off these climbs that tested her body and her willingness to suffer. Several years later in the Canadian Rockies on her first true alpine climb, she learned that a 20% chance of precipitation has a different meaning than the American Southwest.

Significant snowfall resulted in an overnight, exposed bivy on the summit of Castle Mountain after 20 pitches of climbing. Again, her love for the climbing was cemented by an experience that others might find harrowing.

As a climber/athlete she approaches the discipline of climbing with discipline.

“I really like trying hard, to find where my limits are,” she says, noting that the mental challenges of climbing are as important to her as the physical ones.

Along the way, as she progressed, there were many people who influenced her and supported her, not the least of which being Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken when she lived in Canmore. Ultimately she credits much of her success to her enthusiasm. It was something that Gadd recognized and which was born on the cliffs of New Hampshire. She feels very fortunate that a wide range of talented climbers saw in her a sincere passion for the sport and were willing to foster that passion even when her talents as a climber were still just emerging.

14 MAZAMAS

BEFORE I WAS A BADASS…

Interview with Marcus Garcia

by Karoline Gottschild You began climbing in your early teens, and started adding incredible and death-defying exploits soon thereafter. Do we have to go back to diapers and toddlerhood to find you holding on to someone’s hand for safety, nervous or otherwise feeling incapacitated in some ‘non-badass’ ways?

I was very athletic right from childhood into adulthood. I recall one time, when we were about 11, my brother and I saw a zip line on a TV show. We promptly found some rope and made our own line. This didn’t go so well…but it was the start to new adventures. In high school, I played soccer, a runner, track and field, football, and power-lifting.

Could you tell us a bit about your early, formative years? Did you spend your entire youth in Texas? Did your parents or other family members positively influence your athletic direction in any way?

Growing up in Texas, I had to learn to be diverse. My brother and I grew up with divorced parents that moved around a lot.

We were extremely poor, and we had to make do with what we had. I would see my mom work hard to give us what she could, and she always told me ‘you can do anything if you just put the work into it’. This stuck with me. Both my parents were once athletes, but growing up, I lived mostly with other family members, in a small town.

My family influenced me; but the neighborhood kids affected me the most.

We grew up like in the movie The Sandlot.

We always were doing something, but our biggest activities were seasonal sports.

We played football, soccer, explored in the

creeks, and basketball—every day after school and all summer long.

Once I started high school sports, my coaches became my mentors. They gave me direction and support. During these years, my parents could not afford to house me, so I ended living with my uncle.

He gave me the security that I had a real home to come home to. He also encouraged me in all of my athletic endeavors. Some mornings, he would get up at 5 a.m. and take me to school for the power-lifting workout that I did before my track workout. I also did my first climbing road trip with my uncle. But to be honest, it was the support I got from the kids I grew up with that truly helped define me as an athlete. Friends can have a monumental effect on a young person’s life. I am trying to give that back with the Youth Climbing Team program I have.

I know you mentioned before that one of your most memorable climbs was in 1997 climbing on El Capitan. Your late friend and mentor fell 70 feet below you, zippering all equipment on the way down. Yet once the dust and rock bits settled—and even—thanks to El Nino—the ice—you both forged ahead and made summit. If that isn’t badass, I don’t know what is, yet to others it might seem foolhardy. What elements in your upbringing and gave you the quality of mind and spirit to prepare you for such focus, determination and character?

I wrote this quote, “one must learn to live with fear and not in fear,” and I took that to heart. Years later, after that defining trip on El Capitan, I wrote it down. I still live by it ... and suffering ... this is what makes us sometimes.

Perhaps, at this point, we need to define the term badass. After all, one person’s badass could be another person’s “day at the office.” How would you define it?

To me ‘badass’ is a term given to someone who is in control of his or her own adventure. Anyone can be a badass as long as they accept to live with fear and not in fear. Learn to live as if you are going to die tomorrow, and dream as if you are going to live forever. This is my motto in life.

Clearly, given that I have been asked to

interview you, the Mazamas considers you a badass. Do you view yourself the same way?

I do not consider myself a badass. I just enjoy doing what I do. I do what I do for myself, as it gives me life and meaning. I am a visionary—like the character in the movie Walter Mitty. This helps me see what is possible; then it is up to me to make it happen.

Who are the main people in your life you look up to, or who have played a significant role in making you the man and climber you are today?

As I mentioned, my mom, my uncle, the neighborhood kids, and the coaches played an important role in my young life. Later, this would be Brian Clark and my late friend Jimmy Ray Forrester. Being tied together into the same ropes for years, you build a lasting bond and a trust that you know that person has your life in their hands. This allows you to climb at your best. Jimmy was a purist that would never give up. Our epic big wall trip on The Shield was a moment in my climbing life that defined me. That is what climbing is about for me, the adventure of the unknown.

What is it about climbing that gives you that “rush” or that feeling of connection to life that your other sports such as soccer did not?

The adventure I go on that tests me both physically and mentally. I love the fact that it is up to me to get the rope up to the anchor, and sometimes to get us back safe.

What different direction do you think your life would have taken if you had not discovered climbing at 13? You also had a soccer scholarship at one point, but then the school dropped its program.

Was this event pivotal in starting your climbing career?

I would have tried to be a professional athlete. I was big runner and a multisport athlete. Recently I found a quote in my high school yearbook: “My dream is to be an Olympic athlete and to have a gym of my own.” Funny, here I am—I’m a climbing gym owner, and I coach the USA Youth Ice Climbing team as an Olympic Development Team.

What do you think were some of the major life changing events that you are grateful for, but that also were the toughest?

One life changing event occurred during that epic climb Jimmy and I had on The Shield. After we had cleared the ice from our ropes, sipped the water off the lichen covered wall, and popped a few of our last M&M peanuts, we looked at each other and made a promise that if anything were to happen to one of us, that we would each bring the other home. Well, after we topped out, I fractured my foot, which dropped me face first in a pool of water that nearly drowned me. I was too weak to push myself up. Jimmy rushed over and pulled me out of the water. He then kept a watchful eye on me during our entire decent.

When I heard of his death that occurred during an annual trip to El Portero Chico, Mexico, (a trip that he and I did together for years establishing routes ground-up, until I became a father), I happened to be in Fort Worth visiting family. Jimmy was from Fort Worth too. That’s when I got the call. I had to do the hardest thing in my life.

I drove to his mom’s house, who had not seen me in a long time. I was like her other child. When she opened the door, she knew instantly. Still to this day, I find myself in tears telling this story. (And this November will be the 11th year anniversary.)

After I told his mom, I immediately got on a flight with just the clothes on my back and a camera. I had to fly down to ID him and claim the body, and escort his body back home. I kept my promise we made years ago. I also had to climb the route that he died on, to retrieve parts of him and his belongings. I buried what the Mexican rescue team left behind under the Virgin Mary that stands over the approach to the route.

You have indicated in other interviews that climbing allows you to focus and to find your spiritual balance to take on life’s other daily challenges. What do you consider are your most trying ‘daily challenges’?

“Adulting.” I am going through a divorce. I have daughter who lives in Atlanta, Georgia now. Trying to be a long-distance parent over the phone is hard. I am also in the

Continued on page 18 OCTOBER 2017 15

M

AZAMA YTHS

Setting the record straight

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager

B

y now, you are more than likely familiar with the origin story of the Mazamas. You’ve heard of William Steel’s first failed effort, the Oregon Alpine Club, and his dream of a real mountaineering organization comprised of real mountaineers. You’ve seen the famous photograph of the Cooper Spur party reaching the summit of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1894 and heard how 155 men and 38 women founded the Mazamas and elected William Steel the first president. You may have heard, also, that the Mazamas is the oldest mountaineering organization in the nation, that the word mazama means “mountain goat” in Spanish, or that we’re named for the extinct volcano whose crater cradles Crater Lake. But much like the old game of telephone, sometimes the facts get a little turned around. In order to help set the record straight, we offer the following clarifications.

OLDEST MOUNTAIN CLUB The Mazamas is neither the first, or second, oldest mountaineering organization in the United States. It is either the third or fourth depending on how you count. The nation's first mountaineering club, the Appalachian Mountain Club, was founded in 1873. The Oregon Alpine Club (OAC), William Steels’ first attempt at a mountaineering club and the failed precursor to the Mazamas, was started in 1887. The Sierra Club followed in 1892. By 1893 the Oregon Alpine Club was in trouble, and it folded,

16 MAZAMAS

to be replaced by the Mazamas, in 1894. If you count the failed OAC, then the Mazamas is the fourth oldest mountaineering organization in the United States. If you don’t count the OAC, then the Mazamas is the third. The remainder of the principle mountaineering organizations followed with the Rocky Mountain Club in 1896, the American Alpine Club in 1902, the Alpine Club of Canada in 1906, the Mountaineers in 1907, the Colorado Mountain Club (supplanting the Rocky Mountain Club) in 1912, and the Club de Exploraciones de México in 1922.

Coincidentally, the Mountaineers were originally formed as an auxiliary to the Mazamas, and William G. Steel was a charter member.

NAME ORIGIN The experts of the day informed the founders of the Mazamas that the word mazama was the Mexican (Spanish) word for mountain goat. As the study of linguistics has evolved, our understanding of the etymology of the word has evolved along with it. We now know that the term “mazama” is the genus name for South American deer ( family Cervidae) comprising the brockets (any of several small deer, genus Mazama, of Central and South America with unbranched antlers). There is some confusion in the etymological record as to whether the word is French, Spanish, or Nahuatl in origin. Given its spelling and pronunciation, the consensus leans toward Nahuatl, an indigenous Indian language that predates the Spanish conquest of Mexico and Central America. The Merriam-Webster

dictionary backs this up and gives the epistemology of mazama as “New Latin, from Nahuatl maçam-, maçatl, mazatl: deer.”

THE MAZAMA MOTTO Nesika Klatawa Shale is Chinook jargon for “we go up” or more loosely translated as “we climb high.” The Mazamas logo, the triangle with a dot in the center, enclosed in a circle and topped with a goat, has remained relatively unchanged since it was first designed in 1894, although many have suggested modifying it.

CRATER LAKE CONNECTION To end, here are a few little known facts about Crater Lake. The extinct volcano that holds Crater Lake was given the name Mount Mazama in honor of the Mazamas and not the other way around. Lore has it that the name Mount Mazama was chosen to recognize Mazamas’ founder William Steel’s many years of work to create the Crater Lake National Park. Also unknown to many, Steel is responsible for naming Crater Lake’s only island, “Wizard Island,” on his first trip the lake in 1885.

To learn more about the amazing history of the Mazamas be sure to stop by the Mazama Library. Remember, it’s yours to use!

One of the many wonderful photographs in our Historical Collection. William Steel on the rim of Crater Lake, 1925. VM1993.008 William Steel Collection.

PACK IT IN, PACK IT OUT: PLASTICS AT THE MMC

by Rick Craycraft, MMC Facility Manager Over the last five-plus years, something truly remarkable has been quietly accomplished by the Mazamas. In that time, since the establishment of our comprehensive recycling program, we have put into the waste stream a minuscule amount of plastic. In modern day America this is unheard of. Only 3 percent of plastic thrown out in the U.S. gets recycled. Give yourselves credit for participating in this program and reflecting the Mazama value of being good stewards, not only of our beloved mountains, but of the planet itself.

Even with the small amount of plastic recycled in this country, the international markets for recyclable plastics are quite volatile. We have as yet never had to regulate the amount or kind of plastic that gets generated at the Mountaineering Center. Unfortunately, those markets have dried up ( for an undetermined amount of time) and are now accepting just #1 and #2 type plastics, the same as in your curbside pick-up. That leaves the Mazamas in an awkward position. We have no room to stockpile the plastic we generate until the markets stabilize. I have already begun working on what alternatives we can use for the food- and beverage-oriented events we hold at the Center, as well as workarounds for other generated plastic.

How you can help: ▶▶ Don't buy plastic. Use reusable materials whenever possible and don't buy things with plastic packaging. ▶▶ Be mindful of the plastic items you bring into the MMC, the biggest culprits are to-go food containers and cups, and “pack out what you pack in.”

That won’t solve the problem at hand, but will help take the pressure off. ▶▶ Please, spread the word about this change among your climbing friends and through any programs you may be involved in, and help us work as an organization to pull through this period of uncertainty.

Thank you for helping the Mazamas preserve the alpine environments we all love by eliminating plastics as much as possible.

OCTOBER 2017 17

THE ONLY WAY IS UP

Interview with Graham Zimmerman

by Darrin Gunkel How did you first discover climbing?

I grew up in the Seattle area and was first exposed to climbing through a club in high school and through one of my dad’s friends who took me up the south spur on Mt. Adams when I was about 15. That was my initial exposure to climbing. It was kind of a slow start; I think I got more and more into it as I went through high school. My parents signed me up for a course with the American Alpine Institute to learn the proper techniques to deal with mountain terrain. That gave me the idea of what’s possible for the mountains of the world and got me really fired up. I’ve been pursuing those goals ever since.

What is an important lesson you learned early in your climbing career?

The first expedition I ever went on was to the Kyrgyzstani Pamirs. I’d been reading a lot of Mark Twight at the time and gotten fired up on climbing without much gear, going really, really light. The big climb that we did there was on something like an 1,800 meter face, a big technical thing. I had a partner who wasn’t as experienced as I was, and we really didn’t bring much with us. For three days, I think we brought five cams, a rack of wires, a couple of ice screws, a single rope and just sleeping bags. We got away with it. It was sweet, no big deal, but I look back on that and think, o.k., you got away with that one, but in the future we need to bring more stuff. So if a storm comes in, you end up not being able to get through some of the terrain on the mountain, or whatever, you can either hunker down or get off the mountain quickly. If we had to get off that thing for whatever reason, it would have been quite the ordeal. Having a slightly heavier pack is o.k.

That’s a bold statement these days.

We still carry really, really small packs, but you still should probably have a tent if you’re putting up new routes in the greater ranges. [laughs]

18 MAZAMAS

Did you have a climbing mentor?

There have been so many people who have been climbing mentors over the years. Mark Kendrick down in New Zealand initially got me into some of the first big, steep alpine routes I did. Mark Allen is somebody who taught me a lot when I was younger and then later turned into one of my primary climbing partners.

Steve Swenson these days has been guiding me through the art of dealing with big mountains in Pakistan. All these folks I couldn’t have done it without.

It’s one of the really cool things about climbing: we have a lot of opportunities for mentoring, and there’s a lot of patience in the community for dealing with people who are learning. There’s a recognition that you cannot do these things without a lot of knowledge, and so sharing knowledge is super important. I’m really grateful for that and those folks who have helped me over the years.

You've climbed all over the world, was there one region, or even mountain, in particular that originally drew or inspired you?

It’s funny. I very specifically remember seeing photos of the Baltoro region of Pakistan when I was in high school in some picture book. I remember seeing those images and thinking, “That looks really sweet. It would be totally unreal to go and climb in mountains like that.”

I did my first expedition to Pakistan two years ago and so it’s coming full circle.

Right now, my current inspiration is what I was inspired by when I was younger: the Karakoram. It’s a place that really gets me fired up now and has gotten me fired up for a long time.

Was there a moment early on when it hit you that climbing was IT? I was originally born in New Zealand, lived there until I was four, and moved back when I was 18 to attend university. I had a bunch of time to climb before I started school, and it was at that point when I started to really zero in on climbing. Up to that point, my main mountain sport had been skiing—I did a lot of that and had a lot of fun with it—but by the time I moved to New Zealand, it was pretty clear that climbing is what I wanted to pursue. So, I didn’t actually bring skis to New Zealand and just brought a climbing kit. This guy Mark Kendrick, who I mentioned earlier as a mentor, and I were both living in Mt. Cook village, a little town beneath Mt. Cook in the central South Island. He asked me if I wanted to go climb the south face of Cook. It was something way out of my league. I told him as much and he just said, “I think you’ll be fine. I’ll lead all the hard pitches. It’ll be fine.” I really had a hard time on it. I didn’t fall or anything like that, but I remember being totally worked. We wrapped it up and it went pretty well and I remember it as being a sign, 'O.k. This is something I’m capable of and this is something I really want to do.' So I zeroed in on the pursuit of big mountains at that point. I still had to go to school, but it’s what I wanted to do in the long term.

Real world activities are always intruding!

[Laughs] Yeah. Unfortunately you still have to do all that stuff for better or for worse!

In next issue's

PAFletes Part 2: ▶▶ ▶▶ ▶▶ ▶▶

Marcus Garcia, continued from page 15 process of rebuilding my gym after we were forced to move out of the building we were in for years. Dealing with politics and not having real answers for the members of the gym who are waiting patiently.

Some climbers eat, sleep and ... well eat and sleep climbing!

They live out of their cars, or from their sponsor’s, family’s or significant others’ largesse.

I’m sure a lot of people think of them as the real badasses.

What is your opinion?

To me what defines you as the real badass, is what you do with your life. It’s not what you have, or what you sleep in, but it’s the adventure you dream and live.

Is perhaps the ultimate badass someone like you—a person who has defied death on many occasions, someone who has managed by skill

Mayan Smith-Gobat | Riders on the Storm, Torres del Paine

I have seen your videos climbing desert towers, ice climbing and setting unprecedented new routes. Has having a family changed your priorities and risk-assessment?

We just had a good friend suffer a serious climbing accident. My daughter and my soon to be ex-wife were upset. Because my daughter is now old enough to understand what could happen, I talked to her about it. I want her to understand that these things happen, but that I am always thinking about her. I also have a check system that keeps me safe.

and luck (probably by a serendipitous combination of both) to reach incredible new summits, to develop popular new routes, create a family, and a successful climbing-related business? Well, unless you object—I think that will be my definition of a bad ass: Marcus Garcia.

Thank you for your words. I wish my marriage would have been successful, but life has a way of teaching and showing us that we have and will always be learning and growing. This is what makes us successful. To be able to persevere in life.

© 2017 adidas AG | Photos: Thomas Senf, Franz Walter

John Long Aaron Mulkey Jess Roskelley Chris Wright

Is there something else you would like me to ask you or that you’d just like to share to give a more complete picture of who you are or strive to be?

To me being a mentor is the most rewarding part of my life. I love teaching and sharing my skills and dreams with others. It is up to the more skilled climbers like myself, and the gym owners, to help educate others, and to share what climbing is about—the life adventures that climbing takes us on. Climbing to me is a lifelong sport. In a way, it is a way of life for me. It helps me to understand life and deal with the challenges it presents.

U N B E ATA B L E G R I P

The TERREX SCOPE GTX® features STEALTH® rubber outsole and a waterproof GORE-TEX® membrane for unbeatable grip on wet and rocky surfaces.

adidasoutdoor.com

OCTOBER 2017 19

FALLING HARD FOR CLIMBING

Interview with Dawn Glanc

by Kristie Perry

L

ong before she started winning ice climbing competitions at the Ouray Ice Festival, Dawn Glanc (pronounced “glance”) was a straight-A student in search of a better physical outlet than softball—one of the few sports available to high school girls in the flat lands of the Cleveland, OH, suburb where she grew up. One outlet she found was Whipp’s Ledges, an outcropping of sandstone cliffs in a nearby park. “That was my first exposure to climbing,” Glanc says. At the time, it was mostly just “goofing off and partying with friends. We would scramble all over the place.”

Upon graduating from high school in 1993, Glanc set her sights on becoming an aerobics instructor and enrolled at Kent State University. Everything changed after a boyfriend introduced her to top-roping at the cliffs of Whipp’s Ledges.

“I found that using the ropes was a much better idea. I fell in love with climbing instantly.

“The resistance to falling and the unwillingness to do the moves again are the secrets to my success.”

20 MAZAMAS

“I thought, ‘If someone would pay me to do this, I would climb all the time.’ With this mantra, I made climbing my life. Every career choice, relationship choice, and personal action I’ve made since then has revolved around climbing.”

In 1996, at the age of 21, she left Ohio for the Black Hills of South Dakota where she could pursue climbing and a degree in Outdoor Education. There she honed her rock skills and learned to ice climb.

“Living in the Black Hills I had some of the best mentors and role models a girl could ask for,” Glanc says. “My partners in the Hills were with me through some of my most formative years. They inspired me and gave me the confidence to push my comfort bubble. They also taught me a lot about humility.”

In 2004, Glanc was on the move again, this time to Bellingham, WA, where she embarked on a career, not as an aerobics instructor, but as an AMGA-certified mountain guide.

Over the next eight years she climbed and guided clients of all ages and abilities throughout the western United States and Canada.

Glanc now resides in Ouray, CO, where she is co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing, an organization dedicated to educating and empowering women through mountain sports. While she is well-known for efforts to promote the advancement of women and girls in climbing, she has the same advice for all beginning climbers—male or female, young or old: “Hire a guide to teach you how to climb and how to use the proper systems.

Climbing is a life-threatening sport, don't have some random person teach you.

It’s your life, so be proactive in your own safety.”

Over the years, Glanc has climbed in France, Norway, Greece, Montenegro, Croatia, Sardinia, and Iceland. She enjoys demonstrating her mettle through

competition and for many years was a frequent winner at the Ouray Ice Festival competitions, placing first in the women’s division in 2009 and 2011, second place in 2007 and 2012, and third place in 2010. She also won first place in mixed climbing at the Teva Winter Games in 2012 in Vail, CO. Glanc says stubbornness and tenacity are what get her through most climbs. “The resistance to falling and the unwillingness to do the moves again are the secrets to my success.”

Despite her clear climbing prowess, Glanc is honest about her struggles. “I have to consciously quiet my brain if I want to send something,” she says. “I can’t tell you how many times songs in my head, conversations from below, or other distractions keep me from focusing up.”

Glanc is best known for her ice and mixed climbing skills and calls rock climbing her “demon.”

“I don’t mention my rock climbing much because I am just an average climber if you take my ice tools and crampons away.”

Glanc is such a big fan of her hometown of Ouray that in 2015 she decided to run for City Council. “I feel that citizens need to be involved if they want their community to thrive. I really enjoy the opportunity to serve and plan to run for a second term.”

Dawn is sponsored by Outdoor Research, La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear, Blue Water Ropes, and Julbo Sunglasses.

20% OFF to all M a z a m a members

Receive 20% off your entire purchase at the Mountain Hardwear Portland Store.

722 SW Taylor St // Portland, OR 97205 503-226-6868

SA

LM

OA

SW

AY

LOR

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR

DW

TAY

ON

BR

PA

RK

SW

MO U NTA I N HA R DW E A R OCTOBER 2017 21

We love these places. *

*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development.

We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps 22 MAZAMAS

www.GreenTrailsMaps.com

206.546.MAPS (6277)

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS Every Wednesday mid-Oct.—mid-April at 7 p.m., at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Thank you Mazamas, friends, and neighbors for supporting our successful Wednesday night series for more than 60 years! Programs are free and open to the public; a voluntary contribution at the door is at your discretion. We encourage you to carpool, take public transportation, bike or walk to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

See you Wednesdays, starting October 11.

OCT 11—BACKPACKING THE GRAND CANYON: A DOUBLE DESCENT Join 11-time Mazama BCEP assistant, Richard Stellner, and Adventurous Young Mazamas committee chair, Mike Kacmar, for a slideshow of their five day, forty-five mile winter trek. Their first descent explored the Havasupai Indian Nation’s world famous bright turquoise waters cascading down dramatic red rock in Grand Canyon country. The second descent from the South Rim offered expansive panoramic views along the National Park’s Hermit Trail. They will discuss the planning, the permitting process, the unexpected, and their chill 44 hour Amtrak ride back to Portland. Please join them for a unique story and to gain ideas for creating your own, like adventure.

Photo: Mike Kacmar.

OCT. 18—KARAKORAM: CLIMBING THROUGH THE KASHMIR CONFLICT Steve Swenson’s latest book, Karakoram is his personal story of climbing K2 and other peaks in the Karakoram Range that straddles the borders of China, India, and Pakistan—a story told against the backdrop of extreme altitude and harsh conflict between these nations for control of Kashmir. Karakoram is the story of highaltitude adventures within the context of a complex region, where good people bond and bad people wreak havoc. It’s the story of caring about a place, its people, and its future.

OCT. 25—HIKING THE PACIFIC CREST TRAIL: OREGON Thinking about hiking some, or all, of the Pacific Crest Trail Oregon?

Join Eli Boschetto, author of the new guidebook, Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail: Oregon, for an evening of inspiring imagery and helpful trail information to help you start planning your own PCT adventure.

continued on next page OCTOBER 2017 23

DEC. 6—BIG BEND WITH BOB BREIVOGEL DEC. 13—BIKE TOUR MOUNTAINEERING WITH TERRY CAMPBELL DEC. 20—THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY OF EASTERN NEPAL

DEC. 20

NOV. 1—THE WONDERS OF OREGON’S HIGH DESERT Eastern Oregon is home to dark night skies, hot springs, and spectacular geology. Take a photo tour of the wonders of Oregon’s high desert, including the rugged Owyhee Canyonlands, wildlife-filled Hart Mountain, stunning John Day River Basin and more. Corinne Handelman, outreach coordinator for the Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA), and photographer Sage Brown will provide tips to plan your journey to these highlights and lesser-explored destinations. You’ll also have a chance to purchase ONDA’s 2018 Wild Desert Calendar, filled with photos to inspire your next desert adventure!

NOV. 8—CYCLING CUBA Chris Dearth, 25 year Mazama member, will present a slide show of his bicycle travels across Cuba during the winter of 2016/17. During his two months in Cuba, Chris cycled approximately 2,000 kilometers across the island. He started in Habana and headed to Valle de Vinales and to the Peninsula de Guanahabibes in the west, on to the Bahia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) on the south-central coast, and finally to Santiago, Guantanamo, and Punta de Maisi at the far eastern tip of the island. Chris stayed in private home “casas particulares” along the way and was treated to friendly hospitality

by Cubans throughout the trip.

NOV. 15 & 22: NO PROGRAM NOV. 29—THERE AND BACK AGAIN: WHAT IT TOOK TO CLIMB DENALI VIA THE WEST BUTTRESS In this presentation Jill Kellogg will share the adventure of 3 intrepid climbers. Discover what it took for a private party to reach the summit of Denali and take home lessons for your own attempt.

24 MAZAMAS

Eastern Nepal—the remoteness of this terrain, its rugged trails, scattered human habitation, and monsoonal downpours make for a perfectly challenging beginning to the Great Himalaya Trail.

David Burdick, his guide, and Sherpa explore paths which are used mostly by locals, as very few trekkers make their way to the wild east of Nepal. Their journey crosses the Lamba Samba, and then down into the wild Barun Valley.

Their trek from Kanchenjunga over to Everest is a combination of cross-country and mountaineering. The river valleys and immense mountain vistas unfold, including the massifs of Makalu, Everest and Lhotse. Lodging offered by indigenous groups of Rai, Limbu, Sherpa and Lhomi people. David shares his 330 mile, 29 day trek.

DEC. 27 & JAN. 3: NO PROGRAM JAN. 10—SÁNDOR’S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATES Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. Show features shots and stories of adventures to Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to Mazamas.

MORE Programs through April on the website: tinyurl.com/maz-eveningprograms

NOV. 29

OUTINGS Foreign and Domestic Adventure Travel More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.

ICE CLIMBING IN HYALITE CANYON, MONTANA DEC. 14–17, 2017 Do you want to become better acquainted with our “local” ice climbing crags? Do you want to get a jump on the ice climbing season to achieve your grander ambitions? This outing will introduce you to Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, Montana. Spend four days climbing by day and recovering in the hot springs at night! You must be independent setting top-rope anchors, leading WI2-5, or have a partner in the outing that does. You may hire a reputable guide if desired. Orientation to beginner and intermediate level climbing through outing leaders Rebecca Madore and Ania Wiktorowicz.

Group size limited to 8 participants. Total cost is $558 for 8 or $817 for 6 participants and includes lodging, transportation, and outing fees. Food and transportation to and from Bozeman not included.

For more information contact either leader: madore.rebecca@gmail. com or aniaclimbs@gmail.com. Apply online, payment due once your application is accepted. Deadline for sign-up Nov. 13.

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

TUCSON ARIZONA HIKING FEB. 17–24, 2018 Take advantage of Tucson's temperate winter weather and wide variety of hiking options on this hiking outing. Bill Bens, Mazama and local resident, will be providing guidance on selected hikes throughout the well established trail systems in the area. There will be plenty of opportunities to learn about the geology, flora, and fauna of the area. Trip agenda includes five hiking days and one day for local attractions like Kartchner Caverns, Kitt Observatory and the Desert Museum. Two daily B-level hikes or more advanced hiking options depending on group preference.

Outing costs of $810 to $875 for a group of 12 to 16. Costs include lodging and outing fees including one group meal. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in Nov. Sign up by Nov. 22. Deposit of $150 due upon acceptance. Full payment due by Dec.1. Questions contact outing leader, Tony Spiering, at aespiering@gmail.com; or assistant, Rex Breunsbach, at rbruensbach@gmail.com.

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK MARCH 24–31, 2018 Join us on the Big Island of Hawaii where we'll spend a week exploring Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, one of the world's most fascinating biological and geological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. We'll be staying in two cabins right in the park, each with three bedrooms, two baths, a kitchen, and all the comforts of home. Our itinerary will include day hikes (B and C level, the longest will be 10 miles), depending on permits, an overnight backpack either down to the coast (Halape) or up to Red Hill Cabin on Mauna Loa, and one day to explore Hilo and the Hamakua coast.

Outing cost depending on participation of a minimum of 8 to a maximum of 10 (plus 2 leaders). Costs for members from $684 for 10 to $828 for 8 and for nonmembers from $754 for 10 to $898 for 8. Cost includes both lodging and fees. Each participant is responsible for his/her meals, rental car, and air travel. A deposit of $150 is required

by Dec. 15. Deadline for sign-up, Dec. 15. Contact outing leader, Jay Feldman, at JayF1111@gmail.com or assistant leader, Rex Breunsbach at rbreunsbach@gmail.com for more information or to apply.

OCTOBER 2017 25

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check our website, tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

AYM Q hikers jumping for joy on the summit of Matterhorn. Photo: Sándor Lau

Due to current fire conditions, AYM is not currently planning advance events.

Check our website and Meetup page for the most up to date events, we will post hikes pending current conditions.

BIKEPACK: GREEN RIDGE LOOKOUT OCT. 6-7 Come along for a biking expedition in the Deschutes National Forest. We'll start at Black Butte and cycle over high desert roads to a fire tower rental overlooking Mt Jefferson. After enjoying sunset over the Metolius basin, we'll spend the night and cycle back along the river in the morning.

This trip follows dirt roads rather than trail: suspension may help but any mountain bike works. The tower has an important limit of 4 occupants at a time, plus we have special permission for tent campers. Carpool from Gateway 6:30 a.m. Capped at six riders.

Shared rental cost. 14 miles each way, 1,200’.

Driving 300 RT. Leader Toby Creelan at toby@creelan.com

26 MAZAMAS

HIKING TO THE SUMMIT ON Q

M

by Sándor Lao azamas was born as a mountaineering organization on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894, and for more than a century, we have required summiting a glaciated peak for membership. The process of applying to participate in an official Mazamas climb can be highly competitive and it can be a challenge for people new to Mazamas to break in. Only a limited number of climb leaders may lead official climbs.

Adventurous Young Mazamas primarily focus on hiking, backpacking, camping, snowshoeing, biking, gym climbing, and Nordic skiing. As no active AYM leaders are climb leaders, we rarely offer official climbs. But Mazamas does have a unique designation allowing hike leaders to lead expeditions to certain summits.

Q hikes go to some mountain summits that are snow-free in summer and fall, such as Mt. McLoughlin (in Southern Oregon) and Matterhorn (in Eastern Oregon) that we have recently led. Other examples include Mt. Ellinor, Plummer Peak, Eagle Cap, Mt. Bailey, and Mt. Angeles.

Toby Creelan and Sándor Lau are spearheading these leads for AYM. Q hikes require more preparation than regular hikes. Participants must attend pre-hike meetings, and must apply to the leader to participate. Each Q hike must have an assistant leader designated beforehand, and the leader and/or assistant must have advanced first aid training.

Participants in Q hikes are expected to prioritize safety and the needs of the team. Just like on a climb, you’ll need to have your food and water easily at hand so you can snack and drink without holding up the group, as breaks will be limited. You’ll need to be in appropriate physical shape for a high-endurance adventure. Training is the only way to way to get there.

To turn your hiking up to level Q, watch the AYM website and Meetup for new offerings, or even better, email aym@mazamas.org with requests of the new heights you’d like to reach.

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon on Thursdays–Noon on Mondays.

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

The lodge is starting to accept reservations for Thanksgiving this year. Join us for another great feast at the lodge on Nov. 24. Guests can bring an adult beverage at our otherwise dry lodge. Reservations can be made by emailing us at the lodge or calling our lodge number at 503-272-9214. (Adults, $23, Kids ages 2–12 $14, kids under 2 are free.

If you wish to contact the Classics you may attend the committee meetings every other fourth Monday of the month at the MMC at 11 a.m. The next meeting is Nov. 27, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC. You can also email classics@mazamas.org with questions.

THANKSGIVING SCHEDULE: ▶▶ Noon: Lodge opens ▶▶ 1 p.m.: Trail Trips leads a hike or snowshoe ▶▶ 4 p.m.: Appetizers ▶▶ 5 p.m.: Dinner

LEADING EVENTS IN NOVEMBER

This winter we will welcome Brett and Aaron back for their third winter at Mazama Lodge! They are getting married at the lodge at the end of Oct. and will be back the first of the year to begin another busy season at the lodge.

A special thank you to Richard Sandefur and Anita Melbo who volunteered their time to upgrade some electrical wiring at the lodge.

They worked on many projects, including fixing the electrical outlets in the Ape Cave so when you turn off the lights, the outlets will still receive power.

With the late snow and extreme heat this summer the Mazama Hill is lacking in huckleberries this fall. Maybe it will be a great mushrooms season. You can get a $5 non-commercial mushroom permit from the Forest Service.

Those wanting to lead events need to reply to classics@ mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway Transit Center; our west side point is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you may sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

CLASSICS NEEDS A CHAIR RoseMarie (our chair) will have served for three years as of the end of September, so we need a new chair by October. Other positions that need help and/or backup are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater. We meet every other fourth Monday at 11:00am at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and state how you can help.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCH AT MMC DEC. 8, 11:30 A.M. Join us for our annual holiday luncheon. A $5 donation requested and RSVP info. will be coming soon. Lee Davis will be speaking and we will pass out 25 and 50 year pins. Here's hoping we don't have to reschedule for weather as we did last year!

CLIMB UP MT. MCNEELEY

Photo left to right: Bertie August, Ed Johnson, Flora Huber, Jeanne Shults, Wes McNamara, Charlie Brasher, Ray Sheldon, Kate Evans, Larry Murry.

A group of Mazamas met at the Sunrise area on the east side of Mt. Rainier to go where no Mazama Climbing party had gone before. An “R-rated” (R for relaxed pace) climb of McNeeley was our goal. McNeeley is a minor peak off the Huckleberry Trail.

Nothing technical, lots of bushwacking, and of course a great view of Rainier. As it happened, the party turned out to be “Classic,” whether by age or attitude.

Afterwards, at the Sunrise Cafe, a poll was taken that showed that the nine climb members had enjoyed outdoor activities for a total of 409 years!

OCTOBER 2017 27

The Gorge...

IS A PART OF ME

FEELS LIKE HOME

by George Cummings

by Jenny Dempsey Stein

My love affair with the Columbia Gorge and the Mazamas began on July 26, 1959 when I joined a club hike on Observation Peak north of Carson, Washington. I had moved to Portland six weeks earlier and was working in a lab at what was then the University of Oregon Medical School (now OHSU). Two of my co-workers were Mazamas who, on finding that I liked hiking, told me that the club had a hiking program I might enjoy. So on that July Sunday morning at 7:30, I met up with a group of hikers in front of the Pacific Building on SW Salmon Street and got a ride with the Sazlow family. I don't remember anything about the hike itself, but I do remember that, instead of returning the way we had driven on the Oregon side, the Sazlow's chose to give me a better view of it—the best side they said—from the Washington side.

I hiked frequently with the club during the fall and winter and became a Mazama after taking Basic Climbing School in the spring of 1960 and climbing Mt. St. Helens. I have no idea how many times I have hiked on the best side in all seasons with friends, family, students, and alone in the 58 years since that first hike, but I know that its trails, streams, forests and hills are part of me, and I am grateful for that.

As a college student in New York in the early 90s, I worked at the library returning books to the shelves. While I was pondering my future, I found the tiny section of books about Oregon, and two stood out. One featured a black and white photo of Multnomah Falls, which I gaped at open-mouthed. The other featured a story about female forest rangers.

My imagination took off, and soon I landed a Student Conservation Association position in the Gorge with a U.S. Forest Service team and was based at Multnomah Falls visitor center. I also did campfire talks, paraded on July 4th wearing a hot Smokey Bear outfit, sold items from the bookmobile, and traveled on the interpretive Lewis and Clark Amtrak train.

While discovering hot springs, huckleberries, old growth trees, and eventually my fear of heights too, I “fell in love outward” as poet Robinson Jeffers coined the term, and my life, now to be lived out west, was never the same again.

Photos: (Top) Sandor Lao (Bottom, from left to right) Carmen La Macchia, Jenny Dempsey Stein, Darrin Gunkel, Marti McClesky.

28 MAZAMAS

All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.

From the ashes a fire shall be woken, A light from the shadows shall spring; Renewed shall be blade that was broken, The crownless again shall be king.

— from The Fellowship of the Ring, J.R.R. Tolkien

GAVE ME PLENTY

BROUGHT ME BACK

by Darrin Gunkel

by Marti McCleskey

Summer of 2015 wasn’t a great year for Gorge waterfalls. Record low snowpack meant streams petered out early. So, not expecting a much beyond a fine stroll, my wife Karin and I set out one July afternoon on the Wahkeena-Multnomah Loop. We were in for a pleasantly palatable surprise. Who knew such a dry year could produce the bumper crop of huckleberries and thimbleberries we stumbled into! With all the dawdling to graze on the fruits of the forest and take pictures of wildflowers, we did the loop in a record (slow) three and a half hours.

The best moment, after watching Karin jumping to pick notso-low hanging huckleberries, was her creation of the Woodland Amuse-bouche: thimbleberry wrapped in an oxalis leaf. The tart leaf and earthy berry combination opened for us a whole new dimension in forest nibbling. Too bad morel season was over; a few of our favorite mushrooms to accompany this treat would have landed us in Iron Chef territory, for sure.

For me the Gorge was a place for emotional healing after a divorce that ended my 28-year marriage. I had been told for a long time all the things that I could not do. I decided to take up hiking, hoping the exercise would help me feel better. I was at an extreme low point and searching for hikes. I looked at the description for Eagle Creek. I must mention I was terrified of heights then. Maybe it was the description of the “Vertigo Mile” that made me decide to challenge myself, or maybe at that point I really didn't care if I did fall off of it. I can't really remember which, but I do know that on that particular day in Eagle Creek I came to several realizations.

The first was, “Wow! Eagle Creek is really, really beautiful!”

The second was, “It is really cool to be standing on the edge of something that drops off like this.” And third, “I really want to find more hikes like this one.” Finally, “I can do this by myself.”

Something awoke inside of me that day, a growing sense of adventure that has since grown to climbing mountains, rock climbing, and even traversing the entire Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness and bagging most of the peaks in it along the way in one 75-mile, 17,000+ foot of elevation gain, four-and-a-half day through hike. I am thankful for that experience, all of my hikes I have done in the Gorge since that day, and the memories and photos I have of it before it was ravaged by this fire. I am thankful to the Gorge for bringing me back to life.

OCTOBER 2017 29

WILL RISE AGAIN

by Reena Clements Every winter, AYM is invited to visit the Trails Club of Oregon's Nesika Lodge for an overnight backpack trip. Nesika, nestled near Multnomah Falls and Larch Mountain, recently lost both dorms to the Eagle Creek Fire, while the main lodge appears to be standing. A longstanding winter tradition, the annual Nesika trip is the perfect way to introduce our members to backpacking and to both our group and a sister hiking organization.

We have many fond memories and traditions at Nesika, both exploring trails, finding an old Buick deep in the Gorge and making new friends through board games, a potluck, trying to bake bread in the oven, and watching the Empire Builder go by on the opposite side of the Gorge. AYM feels deeply for the buildings Nesika has lost and will be there for Trails Club when the time comes to rebuild.

Photos (clockwise, from top left): Sandor Lao, Sarah Klain, John Leary, True Otis.

30 MAZAMAS

Photos, from top: Vaqas Malik,Trapper Sutterfield, Kirby Young.

A PLACE FOR ADVENTURE

by Thomas Gibbons

No picture, just memories: In the summer of 1940 when I was sixteen I hitchhiked up the old gorge highway to Tanner Creek. Several of us found rides with the construction workers building Bonneville Dam. This trip I was alone and planned to find the “trail” leading above the main waterfall of Tanner Creek that my friend Bill Lenahan had told me about.

At a point about one hundred yards below the falls I crossed the creek on a log jam and scrambled up a scree slope. Low and behold it ended at the opening to a gully that led steeply up to the left. The gully ended at approximately two hundred feet above the creek. A scramble left brought me out to the cliff face!

Now I was on a narrow trail, with a cliff below and above. It was so narrow I had to turn sideways to avoid my pack brushing the wall. As I proceeded upstream the narrow trail became more like a game trail, and wandered through a steep forested hillside.

Passing another waterfall the canyon opened up and nice pools invited me to fish for native cutthroat.

With enough fish for dinner I looked for a bench on which to make camp. Around a bend in the creek was just the spot; but someone had erected two large cabin tents and built a nice fire pit. While debating where to make camp three adults walked into camp and said “Where did you come from?” When I told them they could hardly believe it was possible.

They were engineers surveying for the main

power line and construction road on the east slope of the canyon.

One of them knew my parents and suggested it might be wise to join them the next morning, a Saturday, to hike out.

Upstream we connected with a trail that led about two miles to a road heading west to Larch Mountain. About fifteen years later I did the hike with my young bride, later Mazama President Lois Gibbons. When we got to the game trail we turned up slope to Munra Point ridge and down the rough trail to I-84.

A few years later I led a Mazama hike up the route. Unfortunately the trip is no longer possible. A crack in the gully over time widened from erosion and expansion from ice and the whole wall on the creek side fell into the creek and created a partial dam. But a few of us have great memories of a beautiful, and adventurous, trip!

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO OUR GORGE FEATURE. OCTOBER 2017 31

Garage Sale A Gear Junkies Paradise Dynafit bindings Womens touring boots DPS skis Skins

Arc’teryx/Patagonia apparel Arc’teryx procline boots La sportiva

From our rental department Tele boots AT boots Demo AT skis XC boots Skis Aluminum poles Older performance alpine skis

Salsa bike models on sale Horsethief

El Mariachi

STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

32 MAZAMAS

Fargo

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members:.........................36

LESS THAN 2%

WATER ABSORPTION Distributed in North America by Liberty Mountain For a dealer near you call 1-888.90.CLIMB Photo ©Nathan Smith - www.pullphotography.com

Yukti Aggarwal—Mt. Baker Joel Ankeny—Mt. Hood Justin Bauer—Mt. Rainier Patrick Blanchard—Mt. Hood Jonathan Burley—Mt. St. Helens Mary Chapin—Mt. St. Helens Nicholas Chully—South Sister Derek Collier—Middle Sister Adam Cook—South Sister Sean Corcoran—Denali Yianni Doulis—Mt. Hood David Eliason—South Sister Jim Everett—South Sister Alexander Gilbert—Mt. Hood Deborah Glosser—Mt. St. Helens Karen Jackson—Kilimanjaro Kate Jones—Mt. St. Helens John Kendall—Mt. Hood Nathan Marshall—Mt. Adams Brett Luelling—Mt. Rainier

Jamie Mcgilvray—Mt. St. Helens Meg Mcnabb—Mt. Adams Brendan Mecheski—Engineer Mountain Hayley Mecheski—Mt. Adams Sean Moriarty—Mt. Adams Jessica Nesseler-Cass—South Sister David Nesseler-Cass—South Sister Helen Robinson—Mt. St. Henes Kathleen Scanlan—Mt. Adams Grant Schoepper—Mt. St. Helens Shawn Seaks—Mt. Rainier David Sheperdson—Mt. Hood Brian Smith—Mt. Hood Kevin Wermcrantz—South Sister Sarah Will—Middle Sister Doug Willson—Mt. Hood

Reinstatements:....................................2 Deceased:............................................1 James Bergmann (1948)

Total Membership:

Total membership as of August 31, 2017—3,627 Total membership as of August 31, 2016—3,617

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A2 Oct. 1 (Sun.) Rampart Ridge Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. Mt. Rainier National Park! $25/vehicle or bring your Senior or America the Beautiful pass. Wilderness—Limited 12. A late morning hike to what could be a stunning view of Mt. Rainier.

It's a loop; we'll take the steep way up and the gentle way down. Hiked by thousands each year, this trail will be new to your leader. RSVP required by Fri. 9/29. 4.9 mi., 1,430 ft., Drive 290, TH, Gateway 6 a.m.

(AR,WO) MU

HK A1.5 Oct. 8 (Sun.) Ape Cave Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com.

Traverse the iconic lava tube on the south side of Mount St. Helens.

We’ll enter the lower cave and exit the upper cave, taking the trail back to our vehicles. There is one crux move midway through the cave, an eight-foot ascent with limited holds; we’ll help each other there. No food is permitted in the cave, so we’ll snack before/after. Strong lights and waterproof gear required. RSVP by 10/07. 4.7 mi., 640 ft., Drive 135, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU

HK A2 Oct. 2 (Mon.) Clackamas River Trail Ellen Burns 503-7038907. Peaceful river trail. Come hike with me on a lovely river trail along the Clackamas River where we will encounter hidden beaches, mossy forests, whitewater viewpoints, Pup Creek and falls and if we are really lucky....salmon spawn! We will hike this with a car shuttle so we can do the whole trail. 7.6 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 50, State Park, MMC 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 Oct. 8 (Sun.) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35 David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. The trailhead is just off Hwy 35, near the Robin Hood Campground. We will head up the Gumjuwac trail switchbacks until we meet the Divide trail and then head East on the Divide trail to Lookout Mountain. If good weather, we should have a 5 mountain view in addition to overlooking the Badger Creek Wilderness area. Being fall, be prepared for wet weather conditions. Contact leader or firstcome, first-served up to wilderness limit. 10.4 mi., 2,975 ft., Drive 136, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH)

HK C2 Oct. 6 (Fri.) Ape CanyonPlains of Abraham Gary Riggs gary. riggs@outlook.com. Ape Canyon at Mount St. Helens. Hike up to the Plains of Abraham on Mount St. Helens. A nice fall hike. Please note the 7:30 a.m. departure time. 14.6 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 142, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. (AR,WO) HK B1.5 Oct. 7 (Sat.) Bayocean Spit Richard Getgen teambears@ frontier.com. Hike along estuary and beach. 8.1 mi., 100 ft., Drive 160, TH, Target/185th 8 a.m. (WO) HK C2 Oct. 7 (Sat.) Gumjuwac Saddle to Jean Lake (W) Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness—Limited 12. Jean Lake is a neglected jewel ensconced in marshy meadows on the wooded slopes above Badger Lake. The lake is fed by a creek that then flows down the slope to join Badger Creek. Marsh wildflowers abound here in the summer, as do marsh bugs. This will be an exploratory hike for me—I’ve been on the Gumjuwac trail but not to the lake. We will have fun! 10.5 mi., 3c000 ft., Drive 180, Gateway 8 a.m.

(MH,WO) MU

34 MAZAMAS

HK B2 Oct. 9 (Mon.) Cape Falcon to Neahkahnie Mountain Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Great views at the beach. This fun hike includes a view from Neahkahnie Mountain, sandy beach and views at Cape Falcon. We will hike a portion of the Oregon Coast Trail passing through Oswald State Park. Car shuttle planned to get in more trail! 11.5 mi., 2,400 ft., Drive 156, State Park, 185th Target 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 11 (Wed.) Gales CreekStorey Burn Loop Tony Spiering 503-680-8112. Nice loop hike in the Coast range. Up along Gales Creek to Storey Burn then under Highway 6.

Stop for lunch then back to Summit and down to Trailhead. 8 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 50, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events.

HK A2 Oct. 14 (Sat.) Lacamas Lake Trail Jim Selby 828-508-5094. A chance to see migrating waterfowl along with the resident birds, also great view of Mt. Hood. Early start so dress in layers. 7 mi., 100 ft., Drive 30. Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Oct. 15 (Sun.) Gnat Creek Bertie August 503-358-0274 or baug357@gmail.com. RSVP required.

Out and back trail (8 miles total) in the north Oregon coast range.

Traverse a mature hemlock/Sitka spruce forest. 8.1 mi., 710 ft., Drive 160, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 20 (Fri.) Olallie Lake Loop Hike William O'Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com. Nice fall October hike in the Olallie Lake region, an area punctuated with subalpine lakes leftover from the glaciers. The highlight of the hike, besides the numerous lakes we will be passing, will be climbing up Double Peak offering great views of Mt. Jefferson. The hike will involve a car shuttle 9.1 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 172 miles, MMC 8 a.m. (WO) MU HK B2 Oct. 21 (Sat.) Cairn Basin (Top Spur) (W) Regis Krug 503704-6442/regis_krug@mentor.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Cairn Basin is one of the few spots where an original Timberline Trail stone shelter still stands. The basin is filled with wildflowers in July and August.

This hike also visits the spectacular slopes of Bald Mountain, glacial streams, alpine meadows and a pair of scenic tarns below McNeil Point, so there is something for everyone.

7.9 mi., 1,700 ft., Drive 100, TH, Gateway 6:30 a.m. (AR,MH,WO) MU HK B2 Oct. 22 (Sun.) Hardy Ridge Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com.

Each vehicle will need a Washington Discover Pass (day $10 or annual $30). Hardy Ridge is renowned for its wildflowers—we'll be months-late for those—but it also offers an excellent view of the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge. Enjoy a great hike while taking in the view of a changed Gorge. Prepare for sun exposure, wind, and if we're lucky, rain! RSVP required by 10/21. 8.1 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 88, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) MU

HK B2 Oct. 25 (Wed.) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503680-8112. Nice Woodsy hike in the coast range with a view at the summit. Shorter mileage but enough elevation to add some conditioning.

Back in town early evening. 5.4 mi., 2,780 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) HK A2 Oct. 28 (Sat.) VernoniaBanks Linear Trail Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Walk paved trail from Manning TH to Mendenhall Trestle and return. No sign-up, just show-up. 6.0 mi., 200 ft., Drive 20, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Oct. 28 (Sat.) Cape Horn Jim Selby 828-508-5094. This trail keeps getting better and better with nice waterfall, great views of the gorge and fall colors. We will go in a clockwise direction to do the boring road first and finish with the impressive overlooks. 7.4 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, Gateway 8 a.m.

(WF,AR,GH) MU HK B2 Oct. 29 (Sun.) Falls Creek (Upper & Lower) Regis Krug 503704-6442/regis_krug@mentor.com.

This hike takes you to both the upper and lower tiers of Falls Creek Falls, which is among the largest and most powerful waterfalls in southern Washington. Originating on the Red Mountain plateau, Falls Creek sends a considerable volume of water hurtling 335 feet over its valley. 8.4 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 90, Gateway 6:30 a.m. (WF) MU HK C2 Oct. 29 (Sun.) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35 (W) Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ juno.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. A rigorous Mt. Hood in your lap hike on the east side. Possible late season decent weather, or possibly a downpour. Out to Hood River, then south on Hwy 35 to the trailhead.

Prepare for inclement pre-winter weather. Group limited to 12 due to wilderness designation. 10.4 mi., 2,975 ft., Drive 136, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH,WO)

Photo Mazama trip up Indian Mountain. Photo: Richard Getgen.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass– USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed.

Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

OCTOBER 2017 35

SAYING GOODBYE Dwain Arlen Estes Feb. 4, 1936– July 10, 2017

Dwain was born Feb. 4, 1936 in Joseph, Or., to parents Aubrey Dwain Estes and Maida Caldwell Estes. Aubrey owned the town barbershop and Maida was a teacher. As a boy, Dwain loved the outdoors and developed a life-long passion for hunting and fishing.

He was active in the Boy Scouts and later in the Mazamas, where he climbed several Northwest peaks.

Dwain graduated from Eastern Oregon State College in 1957 and began teaching in Portland's Parkrose School District that autumn. He taught in Parkrose for 33 years, retiring in 1990. Much of his career was spent as a sixthgrade teacher where he shared his enjoyment of the outdoors with many of his students at Outdoor School. He finished his career as a math teacher at Parkrose Middle School.

After retirement, Dwain devoted much of his free time to fishing the rivers in Oregon and Washington, filling his (and friends and family) freezers with salmon and steelhead. Even after suffering a stroke in 2011, his passion for the outdoors was not diminished and he continued to fish with the help of his good friends.

Dwain is survived by his younger sister, Marleen Caloia (Chuck) of Frederick, Md.; his son, Daniel Estes (Thia) of Hubbard, Or.; and grandchildren, Ashlee Pecyna, Gabriella Plante and Cole Plante. Dwain is also survived by his long-time love and companion, Barbara Roberts of Portland; and by many good friends from a long life, well lived.

Private services were held in Joseph, Or. and also at Dwain's favorite fishing hole, the location of which dare not be published.

36 MAZAMAS

Deryl Gene Richter

June 27, 1924–July 22, 2017 Deryl Gene Richter, 93, of Portland, died peacefully July 22, 2017.

He was born to Henry and Lois Richter in June of 1924 in Portland. He graduated from Grant High School in 1943. Deryl served in World War II in the Pacific Theatre earning two bronze stars for his action in Bougainville, Solomon Islands and the liberation of Manilla. Following the war, he earned a Bachelors of Science from Oregon State College in Industrial Engineering. His career in engineering spanned 30 years at Hyster Company where he retired in 1983.

In 1960, he married Beatriz Jean Rey of Bloomington, Ind., whom he met water skiing on Spirit Lake, Wash., with a group of friends that remain close to this day. Deryl held a passion for photography his entire life and leaves behind a legacy of photographs and movies documenting a life well lived; family, snow skiing, water skiing, hiking, backpacking, and traveling the world.

Deryl is survived by his wife, Beatriz; and daughter, Tamara. A celebration of his life was held on Aug. 10, 2017, at the Hillsboro Elks Lodge.

Glenn Alan Eaton Jr.

Sept. 24, 1948–Aug. 27, 2017 Glenn Alan Eaton Jr., 68, of Portland passed away Aug. 27, 2017 from coronary heart disease.

Glenn was a lifetime member of the Mazamas, joining when he was 16.

He attended St. Helen's Hall grade school (OES) graduating from Parkrose High School (1966). He received his BS/MS civil engineering degrees from Oregon State where he joined Acacia Fraternity.

Starting in college he worked as an engineer for the Oregon State Highway Department. He served in the Army after ROTC. Glenn's activities included Eagle Scout, Order of the Arrow leader, church acolyte, square dancer, skier, past president of Winnemucca Society, Children of the American Revolution, Mazama Climbing, Sons of the American Revolution, Blind Commission, and trolleys.

He is survived by wife, Rosemary J. Eaton; sister, Lillian Stewart of Jacksonville, Ore.; nephew, Benjamin Ward (Leticia Durham) of Colorado; niece, Sara Ward of Washington; great-nephews, Tacitus, Caius, Trajan, Deacon. He was preceded in death by his parents, Rev. Canon (Col) Glenn Eaton, Sr. and Jeannette Christensen Eaton.

Services were on Sept. 2, 2017. In lieu of flowers, donations were made to the Mazamas or St. Michaels and All Angels Church.

JAMES McCOBB Jan. 25, 1928–April 26, 2017 James E. McCobb, 89, passed away peacefully at home on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. He is survived by his wife of 49 years, Marilyn (Mack) McCobb; 6 children; 11 grandchildren, 14 great-grandchildren, numerous nieces, nephews, colleagues, and many dear friends. He is pre-deceased by his son Thomas McCobb and sister Elizabeth Lazzaro.

A former methodist minister James went on to 50-year career as an attorney. He was a Mazama, an avid hiker and outdoorsman, and also wrote and self-published several books of poetry. He was an active member of Rotary International.

His wife recently sent the Mazamas a letter notifying us of Jim's death and enclosed a poem he wrote about climbing the South Sister, printed here.

SHAKE THE DUST

You will remember the songs of waterfalls as the trail switchbacks into the forest.

The twists and turns will seem familiar, as you listen to the river.

The roots and stones beneath your feet will remind you I cherished waterfalls, the splendid tress, the paintrush in the clearing across the bridge — the rough log that troubled balance.

When at day's end you remove your boots, from aching feet, you will remember how one autumn day I made the rough ascent, sat beside the pool at altitude, then reached the rugged summit.

You will remember I was there before you, how I loved the roar of waterfalls, the distant view along the ridges scanning westard to the Pacific.

—Jim McCobb

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) Upcoming Board meeting dates: Oct. 2 (after the Annual Meeting), Nov. 21. All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 3 p.m. and again at 5:30 p.m. (The Oct. 2 meeting is an exception as it will follow the Annual Meeting which starts at 6:30 p.m.) This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication.

Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page).

by Steve Hooker, President President Steve Hooker called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, September 19. Two members choose to speak during the first member comment period. Laura Guderyahn urged the council to consider issues of diversity, equality, and inclusion when approving the strategic plan and upcoming budget. Steve Gunther asked the council to consider providing an outing opportunity to the crew of the soonto-be-launched USS Portland, the first naval vessel to solely represent the city of Portland, Oregon in the US fleet. Motion carried to adopt the revised minutes from the August meeting. President Hooker then adjourned the public meeting and called the council into Executive Session to discuss the Executive Director’s annual review.

Following the Executive Session, Secretary John Rettig reported that current membership is 3,627, marking a net gain of 10 members over this time last year.

Treasurer Jon Jurevic reported that at the end of July, total operating revenue for the year is $982,573, and total operating expenses are $1,372,148. Total assets are $668,218. Revenue is tracking one percent above budget and expenditures are fourteen

percent under budget. Jon noted that the primary source of income for July were individual donations and grants while August’s expected revenue comes from class registration.

In business reports, Executive Director Lee Davis led off with the proposed three year strategic plan. Among other things, the 2017–2020 plan focuses on modernizing and expanding Mazamas outdoor education programs, taking the lead in advocating for responsible outdoor recreation, and maintaining and developing Mazamas leadership. Following some discussion about the components of the plan, the council voted to adopt it as written.

A discussion of the 2017–2018 budget followed. Several items of note include a doubling in leadership development support, an investment in educational program research and development, and reinvestment in volunteer management.

Treasurer Jurevic remarked that budget is built on a solid foundation of diversified revenue and represents a great future on which to build the organization. The council voted to approve the budget as presented.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee recapped some upcoming events including the Annual Meeting on October 2 and

the Portland Alpine Fest in November. In operations, Lee shared the good news that the recently installed solar panels on the roof of the MMC are on and working. The primary focus of Lee’s external report was on the Columbia Gorge fire. The Mazamas is in regular contact with the United States Forest Service, and working with regional partners to coordinate involvement in future restoration and rehabilitation efforts.

No members chose to speak at the second member comment period. The meeting closed with an update on the new critical incident management plan policy. Secretary Rettig asked the council to approve the policy as written. President Hooker then adjourned the meeting at just after 5:40 p.m.

The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, October 2 (at the Annual Meeting), at 6 p.m.

We would like to take this opportunity to thank our outgoing board members for their service to the Mazamas. Service dates: Oct. 2014–Oct. 2017.

Steve Hooker

Mazama President, Oct. 2015–Oct. 2017

Marty Hanson

Mazama Vice-President, Oct. 2015–Oct. 2016

John Rettig

Mazama Secretary, Oct. 2014–Oct. 2017 Thank you for your commitment to the Mazamas and the tremendous amount of time and energy you put into ensuring the continued success of the organization.

OCTOBER 2017 37

38 MAZAMAS

SUPPORT

PAF SPONSORS! Presented by

Hosted by

Get your PAF tickets today! portlandalpinefest.org

The Portland Alpine Festival wouldn’t happen without our sponsors.

Visit their physical or virtual stores today! Links are available at portlandalpinefest.org.

Lead

Gold

Silver

Bronze

OCTOBER 2017 39

Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

THE SUMMIT | PORTLAND ICE COMP CLINICS | SEMINARS | SPEAKER SERIES Athlete interviews & full schedule inside.

Get your tickets today! portlandalpinefest.org

Oct. 1 - 31st, Planet Granite will match all donations up to $20,000 to the American Safe Climbing Association.

The ASCA is a bare bones non-profit of dedicated climbers who replace unsafe anchors and reduce the visual impacts of climbing.

Learn how you can help: planetgranite.com/asca-match