Mazama Magazine July 2017

July 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 7

Bulletin

Let’s Climb Rock!

Vacation Cragging Mountains & Mentors From Rambler to Scrambler Injured During Climbing

Feature Articles

Injured During Climbing Season, p. 8 From Rambler to Scrambler, p. 10 Mountains & Mentors, p. 12 Vacation Cragging, p. 19 Volunteers Cozy Up to the Lodge, p. 23 A History of the Mazamas in 10 Objects, p. 28

Monthly Columns

Jonathan Barrett exploring potential mixed ground on Illumination Rock.

Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org |Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK •Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON •Youth & Outreach Manager• claire@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM •Education & Activities Program Manager• justin@mazamas.org

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Events & Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Obituaries, p. 15 Successful Climbers, p.15 Membership Report, p.15 Outings, p.18 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 26 Mazama Lodge, p. 27 Classics, p.35 Trail Trips, p.36 Executive Council, p.38

ADVERTISER INDEX Embark Exploration, p. 40 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Shop, p. 18 Next Adventure, p. 5 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 35

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Publications Committee

Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

On Cover: Radek Chalupa and Shirley on the summit of Steins Pillar. Friends, Ye and Andrew, are climbing the third pitch of the Southwest Face.

JULY 2017 3

MAZAMAS: Voices that matter Dear Members and Friends, As most of you know, the Mazamas were founded in 1894 on the summit of Mt. Hood by the leaders of Oregon—people we all know of like Pittock, Glisan, Northrup, and William Steele. These leaders, like all of us, loved the mountains and they were inspired by the exploration and research the Alpine Club in Britain was doing in the Alps.

Our founders were leaders in mapping the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, and they were leaders in advocating to protect and conserve public lands through projects like the Cascade Forest Reserve, and the creation of Crater Lake National Park.

We at the Mazamas hold a 123-year legacy of promoting mountaineering, outdoor education, and conservation values throughout the Pacific Northwest, and each of you are a part of that legacy.

Like many of you, I got my start at the Mazamas through in our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) and was inspired by assisting volunteer leaders like David Wedge, Wendy Carlton, Keith Mischke, Gary Beck, and Ed Holt. Years before I was hired by then Executive Director Peggie Schwarz to come work for the Mazamas, these leaders encouraged me to join the Mazamas, and volunteer my time as a climb and outings leader, and to serve on administrative committees.

At the Mazamas, we know what we do changes lives, and we see every year how shared experiences in the mountains build lifelong friendships, lasting memories, and a strong community.

In order to continue to serve our members and our community, over the last few years, at the direction of our Executive Council, the Mazamas has invested heavily in building

a new database and IT systems. We've also invested in development, and through new philanthropic support we have been able to launch youth and family programs that together are getting more than 700 kids a year outside. And we’ve invested in regaining our regional leadership role through policy and advocacy work.

What we are finding in Salem, Olympia, and even Washington D.C., is that the voice of the Mazamas gets the attention of legislators and agency officials on both sides of the aisle. Last year we helped to lift a 25-year moratorium on outfitting permits on Mt. Hood, and we worked with Senator Wyden on his Recreation not Red Tape Act that will help to streamline passes and permits and make it easier for you to get outside.

More recently we have been working to create a state level leadership position to represent the interests and benefits of outdoor recreation in Oregon, and to ensure that going forward outdoor recreation is a must-have value, not a wish list item for our law makers.

And we’ve been able to do all of this work specifically because of all of you. The reason the voice of the Mazamas matters, is because we genuinely know and can authentically communicate the transformative power of shared experiences in the outdoors.

We know and can easily share stories of how spending time in the mountains and outside can improve people’s physical and mental health, their engagement with their community, their interest in learning, and their understanding and commitment to conservation values—and that matters.

And it is because of you that we have been asked to represent the voices of

climbers, hikers, skiers, and human powered recreation in our state, in our region, and in D.C. And it is because of your skills, and your dedication to Mazama values that the Multnomah County Education Services District and Friends of Outdoor School entrusted us to develop Oregon’s only snowbased outdoor school program for 5th and 6th graders.

The Mazamas is many things to many people, and together we are powerful and can make a difference in our community.

We are thankful to all of our members and participants for making a commitment to the Mazamas mission—as leaders, volunteers, educators, hikers, climbers, ramblers, and more—you all create the heart and soul of our historic organization.

Our founders would be proud of who we are today, because of your leadership, your dedication, and your passion for sharing the values and benefits of playing in and protecting the mountains.

We look forward to seeing you out in the mountains and on the trails this summer, and are excited to have your ongoing support of our historic organization.

Lee Davis Executive Director

UPCOMING VOTING PROCESS The 2017 Mazama Election will again be conducted via an electronic process by a third party vendor. If you have recently changed email addresses or are uncertain as to whether the Mazamas has your current email address in our database, please update your contact info at: tinyurl.com/MazUpdate.

If you do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas you will receive a paper ballot.

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2017 MAZAMA ELECTION Election Candidates & Process

Thank you to the following five individuals who have agreed to run for Executive Council in the upcoming October 2017 election: Matt Blecharz Keith Campbell Preston Corless

Traci Manning Sandra Volk

Nominating Committee Candidates are Martin Hanson, Brad Noren, John Rettig.

Thanks also to all of the members of the Mazama Nominating Committee for their hard work this year to secure a quality list of nominees.

Occasionally someone also asks how candidates may be nominated by direct petition of the members. We do have a process spelled out for this option in the Mazama Bylaws, and in fact it was successfully used recently (in 2015) to get on the ballot and secure a seat on Executive Council: All petition candidates are required to have continuously been a voting member of the Mazamas for a period of not less than three years next preceding the date of their election (dues must have been paid continuously from October 2014 to the upcoming October 2017 election), and they cannot have served on Executive Council in the previous year. Any seventy-five or more voting members may, by petition delivered to the Mazama Secretary, John Rettig, on or before the 5 p.m. on July 18*, nominate any one or more additional qualified voting members, not exceeding three in number per petition. Signatures on the petition must be dated between April 1 and July 18. Emails are also acceptable to the Secretary if they list the full name of the nominee(s), the full name of the signer (First and Last name), and are sent directly to the secretary's email address (secretary@mazamas.org). If possible, please deliver any petitions to John Rettig at the July 11 Executive Council meeting.

Questions about this process should be directed to John Rettig, again at secretary@mazamas.org. Petitions must be submitted to Mazama Secretary, John Rettig.

This notice is intended to inform our membership of the petition process and does not constitute endorsement of any current or future candidate by Mazama Executive Council or staff.

Link to the full text of the Mazama Bylaws is at mazamas.org/ resources/forms-and-paperwork/ (scroll to the bottom of the page).

Alexander Fox Chair, Nominating Committee

John Rettig Mazama Secretary

*Typically, petitions would be due by the end of the July Executive Council meeting. However, since the July meeting was moved up one week to July 11, the deadline is 5 p.m. on July 18, the originally posted date of the July meeting.

JULY 2017 5

Events & Activities Families Rock Skills

Round the Mountain

July 26, Aug. 21, Sept. 27, 5–8 p.m. at the MMC

Sept. 2–4 at the Mazama Lodge

An open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls with a focus on helping your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere to encourage kids.

Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults. ▶▶ Cost: $2 per person/$5 max per family. ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

Solar Array Inauguration July 11, 6–8:30 p.m. at the MMC Come meet representatives from the Mazama Center Solar Project, ask questions, and get going on your own business or home solar array.

Refreshments will be available.

Join the Mazamas 11th annual Round the Mountain (RTM) hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend. You will experience hiking a majestic 40 miles of the Timberline Trail with spectacular views of Mt. Hood and the beginning of autumn colors. ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/MazRTM

Expedition Grants Deadline Extended to Aug. 9

Mountain Running Camp July 28–30 at the Mazama Lodge

Are you a highly involved Mazama, with a mountain range you have always dreamed of exploring and climbing? A total of $10,000 is available annually through the Mazama Bob Wilson Expedition Grants.

For 2018 expeditions, we've extended the application date to August 9.

We encourage you to get the details and apply at tinyurl.com/maz-expgrants, or contact the expedition committee at expedition@mazamas.org.

Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. ▶▶ Registration: tinyurl.com/MazMtnRun

Climb to the Peak of Clean Energy with the Mazamas!

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/search?q=bulletin

Join us for an evening to support the Mazamas Library & Historical Collections.

Join the Mazamas in celebration of the commissioning of their new solar PV system. Outfitted with 39.6kW worth of solar on top of the widely recognizable bright blue roof, the Mazama community will offset 29.5 metric tons of CO2 annually.

July 19, 5:30–8:30 at the MMC Tickets: tinyurl.com/maz-upcoming The evening will include historical collections tours and displays, the showing of a restored 1930s climbing film, dinner, and a presentation by photographer and author Chris Noble, who will speak about his career and latest book Why We Climb.

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Learn about future community solar projects led by the Oregon Clean Power Co-op and how you too can bring clean energy to your home and community.

Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:30 - 8:00 PM Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, OR 97215 Free to Attend | Food & Drink Provided

Chris Noble, author of Why We Climb

OREGON

CLEAN POWER

COOPERATIVE

Volunteer Opportunities

MAZAMA TRAIL TENDING

TELL US ABOUT YOUR ADVENTURE

JULY 27, 28. AND/OR 29 Volunteer for only one day or all three! Meet at 7:30 a.m. if carpooling from the MMC; 9:30 a.m. if meeting at the trailhead.

Volunteer work will continue until 5 p.m. each day.

Each year Trail Tending volunteers repair and spruce up the Mazama Trail on Mt. Hood. This helps keep the trail open as it experiences annual storm damage, erosion, and the whims of nature.

This is not just a hike rather it’s an opportunity to give back.

Trail tools supplied by crew leaders. Wear sturdy hiking boots, long sleeves and pants, and bring plenty of water and food.

Do you have a photo-heavy adventure you’d like to share as a Wednesday Evening Travel Program? The Programs Committee is looking for presenters for the next series, mid-October 2017 to mid-April 2018. Whether you hike, climb, cycle, paddle, or simply travel the world, from the Pacific Northwest to Timbuktu, down under to up and over (a mountain), Programs would like to hear from you. Contact the Programs Committee at programs@ mazamas.org.

BROUGHTON BLUFF AND ROOSTER ROCK COORDINATOR

6/14/2017 STEWARDSHIP

We are looking for a special someone that has time to help organize and lead climber trail projects at two popular climbing areas near Portland and work directly with Mazama staff and Oregon State Parks rangers. If you are interested, email adam@ mazamas.org for more information.

JOIN OUR TEAM! The Mazamas are looking for a team of 5–20 active, engaged, and energetic volunteers to join our team of outreach volunteers.

Responsibilities include representing the Mazamas at 2–4 events per year that align with our mission and reach people who might be interested in Mazama membership, activities, or events. We’ll provide you with a 1 hour training on how to set up and manage a table at these events. If interested, email sarah@mazamas.org.

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS Looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e. Wilderness First Responder or equivalent.

Instructors will work with the MFA Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum.

Contact the First Aid Committee if you are interested at firstaid@ mazamas.org.

MAZAMAS COMMITTEES NEED YOU Interested in helping the Mazamas plan and expand on our firstclass trips, activities or classes? The committees below need your support. Positions and time commitments vary; contact Justin Rotherham, Mazamas Education & Activities Program Manager, at justin@mazamas.org to discuss the open position that might be best for you! ▶▶ Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) ▶▶ Classics ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Trail Trips

Mazama Voices

Share your story in the Mazama Bulletin! We are starting a new series, Mazama Voices, where you get to tell us about your experiences in the mountains and on the trails.

This month's question: What is your most memorable Mazama education program experience?

Tell us about it at: tinyurl.com/MazVoices-Education

JULY 2017 7

IN

D E R U J

by Jonathan Barrett

T

his is not medical advice.

If you are looking for the top ten ways to overcome shoulder pain, A2 pulley tears, or knee aches, these words are not for you. I am not a doctor, physical therapist, or even a legitimate quack. Actually, I am not even a great climber. My top ticks are the easy and accessible routes compiled by Beckey, Nelson, or Steck and Roper. What I am skilled at is being injured.

DURING CLIMBING SEASON In August of 2008, I lay on my couch doped up on percocet. Maybe it was vicodin, possibly oxycodone. The Olympic opening ceremonies were on the tube, and the fireworks being shot from the Birdsnest meshed nicely with my semihallucinogenic state. Several days earlier, I had my second surgery to repair a torn labrum in my left shoulder; the result of a climbing injury. Multiple pins were inserted to replace and reinforce similar hardware that had been implanted for the same purpose four years prior. My body was as broken as my spirit. The doctors and physical therapists said that the road to recovery was at least eighteen months, possibly longer. Eighteen months. The first trip through physical therapy had only been six months, but it had failed. The joint was not made stable. I was depressed despite the painkillers with which my wife dosed me. Perhaps they just aggravated the issue. Who knows.

As everyone is aware, August is prime alpine rock season. The days are still long enough, and the last patches of snow are gone from the ledges and shoulders of high ridge lines. The bivy at the base of the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart is almost pleasant with a down jacket and legs stuffed into a pack. And September. Oh, September is such a stellar month for rock climbs in Oregon and Washington. Beacon catches the cooling breezes through the Gorge, and the intensity of the sun on the south facing routes mellows. Then of course Send-tober follows right behind.

Cooler temps means finally red-pointing that project that has bedeviled you for months. Then November brings the first ice lines into some regions of the Rockies, while December means mixed lines on Author starting up the approach gully to the upper section of the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart.

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the backside of Illumination Rock. Not to be outdone, January and February follow where we start to get some ice in the Northwest; maybe even long cold snaps freeze the Gorge like last winter. And on and on and on.

I lay on the couch watching the Olympic performers pounding their drums and hear the driving rhythms. All I could think about was how once again I would miss the tiny window for the Northeast Buttress of Slesse. Da-da-dum! Da-da-dum! Dumb indeed that I am busted up on purpose.

Weeks later, I was up and mobile.

Occasionally I might wander around the base of Ozone and pretend to be one of the people who discovered the trail on the side of highway 14 and wondered why the tiny lot was packed with Subarus on a Saturday morning. Once I even pretended to know nothing about climbing at all. “How do you get the ropes up there?,” I asked. “What happens if you fall? Do you die?” It was easier to feign ignorance with my arm in a sling and climbing out of reach.

There are a myriad ways to end up being busted as a climber. It isn’t hard to wind up with a shoulder injury (dynamic gym moves), knee pain (descending Ulrich’s Couloir), or a finger strain (mono pockets). Just this last fall, I was feeling really healthy for the first time in ages. My most recent plague, plantar fasciitis, had finally subsided, and the off-camber lilt that I thought would become a permanent part of my movement patterns had indeed actually vanished. Feeling normal had never felt so foreign.

I returned to the gym hoping to ascend that sick red V5 on the back wall. You know the route. It’s one of the few crimpy problems there because setters know

Staying home was like holding my breath. Eventually I would gasp for air.

The author attempts some therapeutic yoga while being supervised by his unimpressed “downward dog” mentor and family pet, Dino.

that tiny holds lead to injuries. I didn’t experience the common “pop” sound that many other climbers report when their A2 pulley tears. Perhaps this is why it was easy to live in a state of denial. I did not tape the joint like so many people do to provide support. After all, I was not really injured.

It was just sore. If you have ever tried to lift your ring finger while gripping with your other four digits, you understand my problem. I floundered up a V1. Too hard.

The V0 was almost right.

For the next few days I rolled my thumb across the thick flesh below my knuckle. It felt like gristle and almost crunched. Did it hurt? Yes minorly, so I took some vitamin i. Extending the finger was impossible; tucking the tip tight against my palm was unattainable. The joint felt best when formed into a half-moon-shaped claw.

About ten days later, I went back to the

gym, not because the tendon was better but because force of habit said that I had to go climbing. Staying home was like holding my breath. Eventually I would gasp for air.

Almost a month went by like this. I would go, feel pain, try to persevere, give up, and return home reluctantly. If this had been a relationship, I would have been John Cusack outside the Circuit with a boombox over my head pumping out Peter Gabriel.

At least when my shoulder was jacked up, I looked the part. People opened doors for me, pulled back my chair, helped me slice my sympathy steak. Trying to escape from the bathroom while babying my ring finger just left me looking like a germo-phobe. But I persevered in quitting climbing long enough to get healthy again.

I did a lot of push-ups. And squats. And core work. When my finger was better, I was going to come back as a total stud.

John Gill was going to envy my one armed front levers. Kenyan runners would marvel at my blistering pace.

And I did, at least for a while, until I tore my hamstring trying to qualify for the Boston Marathon. I figured that if I couldn’t climb, I could run. If I was just going to run, I was going to run really fast and really far. I did manage to stagger over the finish line with a time that allowed me the privilege of registering for the marathon, but I was left with literal pain in my butt. The diagnosis was a proximal hamstring tear. However, by that time climbing was possible again. I threw myself at training because I hoped to drown my anxiety about not being able to participate in the Boston Marathon on account of my hamstring.

At the gym, I started working V7’s and adding heavier weights to my lifting sessions. Driving home at night, I stank like aspirations drenched in perspiration.

Pseudo-experts on YouTube educated me on ways to wring the last bits of power and endurance from my uninspiring musculature. Then one day in early March, I felt a distinct weakness in my right bicep.

That night, I had to shimmy out of my shirt. Lifting my arm perpendicular to my body was almost impossible. Something had snapped again. Whether it had its locus in my arm or shoulder or back was impossible to tell. My status was frighteningly similar to that of August of 2008: depressed with only one good arm.

I do yoga now. Not since college when I took it as a throw-away elective have I engaged in the practice which was profoundly exasperating for me. Folding myself up like some sort of spiritual pretzel seemed insane. I have few choices in my current injured state. I can’t run because my butt is busted. Climbing or lifting weights of any sort is also out unless I want to end up like a fiddler crab. My downward facing dog is appalling, but my warrior pose is improving, if you ignore my right arm. At the end of it all, as I lay on the floor focusing on my breathing in shavasana, I am thankful that this one pose simply could not possibly lead to further pain. In goes the good air. Out goes the bad. The oxygen causes me to have the following hallucination: I am injury free.

For more check out Yoga for Climbers, Mazama Library #613.7 T79.

JULY 2017 9

FROM

RAMBLER TO SCR MBLER

by Sue Griffith

D

o you love hiking but crave a little more challenge? Is the specter of ropes and harnesses keeping you from reaching summits? To get a taste of what climbing is all about, you might want to start with a scramble.

The term scrambling is highly subjective and means different things to different people. Experience, trail conditions, and fitness can make one person’s scramble another person’s climb. Though most agree it falls somewhere between hiking and climbing, the Yosemite Decimal System provides a more precise standard: Class 2 (simple scrambling, with possible occasional use of hands) and Class 3 (scrambling; hands are used for balance; a

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rope might be carried). Scrambling is often a hiker’s next step toward climbing and typically means leaving the maintained trails, navigating a steep slope, or slogging through talus and scree—or any combination of these. For me, it means getting my hands dirty, my knees bruised, and a huge sense of accomplishment.

Scrambling is often associated with non-technical summits but don’t be fooled—all un-roped climbing carries risk.

Be smart and know your limits. Do not underestimate the effort required simply because a route is called a scramble, rather than a climb. Turn around if you feel unsafe and bear in mind that what goes up must come down—don’t put yourself in a position where the trip down is trickier than the scrambling up and might possibly exceed your abilities.

Listed below are three of my favorite scrambles. While they all offer nontechnical summits, each is strenuous and none should be attempted without appropriate skills and conditioning. Need more inspiration? Check out Barbara Bond’s 75 Scrambles in Oregon—Best Nontechnical Ascents.

SOUTH SISTER Camp at the trailhead and plan on an early start to tackle this six mile route up a 10,358 ft. stratovolcano. After following a pleasant forest trail to a high plateau, get ready for a steep climb as you scramble up loose cinder and scree to the crater rim. Once on top, the views of the Cascade Range and beyond will make you forget the pain of getting there.

Picking our way up Old Snowy.

Photo: Sue Griffith

OLD SNOWY MOUNTAIN

ELK/KINGS LOOP

Nestled in the center of Washington’s Goat Rocks Wilderness, this 7,930 ft. extinct volcano is a popular summer hike, rewarding climbers with 360 degree views on a clear day. While primarily a long, 14 mile round-trip hike through beautiful scenery, the last mile or so leads you along a steep, exposed ridge with plenty of loose rock. Be cautious. At one point you will need your hands and solid footholds to continue up. This is a strenuous climb but determination, stamina, and a bit of scrambling will get you to the top for those spectacular views!

Plan to do this rugged coastal hike after a period of dry weather, as wet or muddy conditions can render it nearly impassible in spots. I like to hike the full ten-mile loop, but if pressed for time, you can eliminate more than three miles by using a shuttle car and skipping the relatively flat, but lovely, Wilson River Trail segment.

Heading counterclockwise from the Kings Mountain trailhead, prepare to get dirty as you leave the Wilson River Trail and scramble up a steep, sometimes rocky, trail to the Elk Mountain summit. Sign the register and enjoy the views then continue down an even steeper trail—roped in one particularly tricky spot—before climbing again to the Kings Mountain summit and possibly better views. For an extra treat, time your outing to coincide with the spring or summer wildflowers.

Top Left: Descending the loose cinder on South Sister.

Kings Mountain Summit. Bottom: Looking north from the top of Mt. Snowy. Photos: Sue Griffith

For more weekend scramble ideas check out 75 Scrambles in Oregon, Mazama Library #917.95.B64, and 75 Scrambles in Washington, Mazama Library #917.97.G56

JULY 2017 11

MOUNTAINS & MENTORS

RELIVING THE PEREGRINE T R AV E R S E

By Rick Allen

I

had snapped the lid closed on a box of climbing gear several weeks before, saying goodbye for what I thought would be the last time to chalk bag, shoes, and harness. I spent over 30 years drifting in and out of climbing, always looking for a partner, but never able to make a lasting connection.

A professional career jealous of free time and energy also left me with catastrophic injuries which made me a perfect weather barometer, but limited my diminishing physical capabilities. Yet the rock called me to come back again and again. I wanted to feel the flow of moving over it, to be one with it and not at war. Old flames separated by time and circumstance reunited, discovering they were still in love with each other.

Rick below the summit of Acker Rock.

Photo: Jordan Machtelinckx.

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I never made the transition to indoor gym climbing, at least not successfully. Overhanging thuggish routes replaced my beloved thin, high angle face climbs. Slab. That's what the kids called them now. Slab, said with disgust as if they were spitting something distasteful from their mouth. The internet had allowed me to find one of my first climbing heroes, Patrick Edlinger "Le Blond." I would watch his Life By the Fingertips and remember the first time I saw it on television in 1984. It inspired me to recover from my injuries and reconnect with the rock again. When I mentioned him to young climbers at the local gym no one had any idea who I was talking about. Slab.

An email received from a climbing acquaintance had me prying the lid off that box of climbing gear once again. A recent college graduate would be spending the summer in Eugene and he needed a climbing partner. Would I be interested? Once more into the breach. Hope springs eternal, and so I began my relationship with Jordan Machtelinckx. An alpinist who wanted to improve his rock climbing for future mixed routes, he attacked routes with a raw power I could only dream of, yet he was open to suggestion. Over beers and pulled pork nachos I

told him of Edlinger and Ron Kauk, those masters of climbing elegance I so admired, and a seed was planted. Weeks passed and Jordan progressed from murdering 5.9's with blunt force trauma to gliding up 5.11's with the grace and poise I knew was there within him.

The summer months advanced and I knew my time of having a steady climbing partner would end, as all good things must.

Jordan was more than ready to stretch his wings on a worthy project and he was eager. We wanted more than the typical Smith Rock multi-pitch day. Beer and nachos gave way to Guinness and Irish whiskey in my backyard. Jordan poured over guide books as I refilled glasses.

We agreed on the Peregrine Traverse of Acker Rock. Touted as Oregon’s longest sport climb, it is ten pitches of sparsely bolted rock in a remote part of the state.

There would be no ten minute approach from a paved parking lot. No stairs or easy rescue if things went badly. No running water, no cell service, no nothing. I read the route description and looked at photos again and again. Ten pitches. I didn't need to do the climber’s math to realize it is going to be a very long day, and I am 58 years old. I reach for the whiskey and poured four fingers. I felt the twinge in my gut and recognized the feeling for what it was. Fear.

I am not one for tilting at windmills.

There is no room in my life for Walter Mitty fantasy. Occasionally, when I look in the mirror I see my father. I recognize ugly truths and accept them for what they are, despite what I might wish and dream for myself. My best years have come and gone.

My body is broken and I am old. I am old.

Labor Day arrives. The end of summer.

We load gear into my truck and drive south in the darkness, sunrise still hours away. Paved roads turn to gravel as we drive deeper into the forest under morning light still devoid of color. I suddenly see an enormous black bear playing peekaboo behind an equally enormous old growth stump. I try to direct Jordan to it but what is clearly evident to me is invisible to him.

The ensuing conversation borders on the comedic. It's right there! Where? There.

I soon realize we are seeing the world through different eyes.

After a few missed turns we arrive at the parking area and see the gate is closed.

This means a longer approach hike than we had hoped for. Certainly longer than I had hoped for. As we gather our gear and rack up, the last climber group from the weekend is leaving. They wish us well and say, “You have the place all to yourselves."

We begin the long uphill walk and Jordan chats happily. I am not exactly gasping, but my replies are short and I let him carry the bulk of the conversation, as well as the pack weight. Suddenly, I hear a sound I recognize as claws on tree bark, followed by the cries of a wailing child. We have inadvertently startled a bear cub who has scampered 40 feet up a tree and now screams for mama to come to the rescue.

Jordan fumbles with his phone trying to take a photo as I explain to him we really don't want to be here when its mother returns. Jordan is enthralled by this rarely seen sight while I am recalling the size of the bear I had seen earlier. We are seeing the world through different eyes.

We climb over an embankment and leave the gravel road for the climber’s trail, which is nothing more than an animal trail.

The trail is loose and off camber. I struggle with the unfamiliar weight of a pack and I feel unstable. I stumble on and, without the aid of trekking poles, the inevitable happens. Jordan stares at me quizzically as I attempt to regain my feet. We have not even begun the real climbing and I am already on my ass.

A brief glimpse through the trees gives me my first full view of Acker Rock.

It seems immense. Huge and, for me, intimidating. We finally reach the area known as the Sun Bowl. Aptly named, we are bathed in full morning sun. Jordan ropes up to lead the first pitch as I organize his belay. I look up at the rock. Ten pitches to go.

Jordan breezes through the first pitch and establishes our first belay stance. I marvel at the solid coarse nature of the rock, glad to have made the decision to keep my leather belay gloves on. I am starting to relax, thinking I may actually remember how to do this. The last time I did any serious multi-pitch climbing, I was Jordan's age. That simple thought causes me to reminisce about climbing

the Bastille Crack in El Dorado Springs Canyon. So long ago. What happened to my life? Where did it all go? Jordan takes off on the second pitch and I return my thoughts to the present and the task at hand.

One pitch follows another as an easy, pleasant pattern develops. At the end of each pitch we share a PowerBar and water as we discuss the joys and difficulties of the preceding pitch. I feel the sun's intensity on my face and skin and know the climbing helmet I am wearing is doing nothing for me as a sunblock. I open my flip phone and check for a signal. Zip. Zero.

It is taking us far longer than we imagined it would. This won't be done in a couple of hours. It will be an all-day affair.

We continue moving upward with Jordan in the lead. I pause at certain points on each pitch for a good look around, taking mental snapshots. I am savoring this extended moment in time with my young friend. I am ushering him in the beginning years of his life of adventures as he is leading me upward to the end of mine.

The lengthy wait at belay stances causes my body to stiffen and old injuries begin to ache. I struggle at the beginning when it is my turn to climb. I am the Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz looking for a can of oil.

We begin to find a rhythm and are now hundreds of feet up. I watch falcons glide back and forth across the face below me.

Jordan is high above me and out of sight.

Just when I think all is well he calls down to me. "I'm not sure.....I....I think we're off route." Off route. It's a sanitized version for lost. A voice that had been happy and confident was now filled with concern. We are almost out of rope and Jordan cannot find the established belay anchors. He creates a solid anchor and yells down to me with words that sound something like, "rappel off." Oh the hell you say! I cup my hands and yell back. "Put me on belay and bring me up. We'll talk about it."

I reach Jordan and am relieved to be together again. I see he has made us a solid anchor by stringing webbing and cordelette around what looks like an upside down sugar cone. He talks again about rappel.

I am against it. I tell him sketchy rappels

continued on next page JULY 2017 13

Mountains, continued from previous page

Sunset from the fire lookout on Acker Rock.

Photo: Jordan Machtelinckx.

are how people die on these things. An old memory from my first trip to Yosemite returns to me. A guy had rappelled down to a ledge I was on. We spoke briefly and then he stepped back to finish his rappel, 70 feet to the ground. I had looked away but heard the unmistakable sound of rope running rapidly against rock. I turned back and lunged for him, but it was too late. He was out of my reach and falling, his eyes wide, locked with mine, begging for help I couldn't give him. The wild windmilling of his arms carried him away from the rock as basketball sized granite boulders at the base awaited his arrival. I shook the memory out of my head. Lesson learned, there was no point dwelling on it.

Jordan looks around us, then up at the remaining portion of the route, then at me. He is not convinced. I tell him, "Look, I have the rack. Let's take the gear for a walk.

I bet the anchors are just over that bulge above us." I can see sunlight reflecting off a bolt line above us. I reason with him, saying, “All roads lead to Rome, we just need to keep climbing up and we'll find our way.”

Jordan is not enthused about my leading and expresses his concerns. Valid point and just in time, as I am scared like hell at the thought of my first time on lead since before he was born. I can’t believe I am stupid enough to suggest it.

It was time for a pep talk. "Look, you're a 5.11 climber. This is several grades below what you're capable of. I know we can finish this. You just need to breathe up, center yourself and execute,” I say. As if on

14 MAZAMAS

cue, he closes his eyes and begins some focused, purposeful breathing. Thirty seconds later he looks at me and gives a sharp nod of his head. I put him back on belay and he is gone. Jordan disappears over the bulge and seconds later I hear a happy shout, "Found 'em." We are back in business.

Jordan had been leading well all day, but the next two pitches are a thing of beauty. He is powerful and confident. He cruises up a final squeeze chimney that I murder by sheer force. As I reach him, he gestures to me with arms stretched out, as if to welcome me. I collapse beside him in a combination of relief and exhaustion.

Still he reaches toward me. “What? Are we hugging? We're not done yet?” I ask. Jordan chuckles and says, "No, dude. I love you, but right now I just want your slings." One more pitch to go.

Pitch ten is an exposed traverse across the knife edge summit ridge. When I say exposed, I mean exposure that would send any normal person’s nether regions on the express elevator to their throat. We forge on and top out. The Peregrine Traverse of Acker Rock is complete.

I sit next to Jordan and revel in the exposure. We look out at a never-ending sea of trees. Alone here on this grand piece of rock, I am happy. I truly enjoy silence.

Moments like this border on bliss. An ear splitting whoop sounds across the canyons as Jordan celebrates his achievement in the way young climbers do these days.

My head snaps around to glare at him for disturbing my peaceful moment, but then

I see him standing with his arms raised up in exaltation.

My annoyance gone, I can only look at him and smile. I hope he will seize the life that lies before him and have many more of these days ahead. The button-down 9 to 5 world can wait. I look toward the setting sun and know this is most likely my last summit, but I am glad I shared it with him, grateful to him for leading me to this glorious end.

Nearly three years have passed since that day spent on Acker Rock. Jordan moved on and completed an Odysseus-like trek across western Asia. He is living the life I had hoped for him, filled with meaningful work, loving relationships, and continuing adventures.

I write this from the comfort of home, my cat sleeping peacefully in my lap. I continue to climb at the local gym and get on real rock when the rare opportunity presents itself. I keep track of current climbing news via the internet. I see that Chris Bonington has returned to climb the Old Man of Hoy at the age of 80. Peter Habler, an old climbing partner of Reinhold Messner, has topped out on the North Face of the Eiger at 72. I gaze out the window and allow myself to consider what might be possible. Maybe, I think. Just maybe.

For more on the Peregrine Traverse check out Weekend Rock Oregon, Mazama Library #917.95.H78.

SAYING GOODBYE RUTH REITSMA

June 2, 1942–April 17, 2017 Ruth Reitsma was a member of the Mazamas from 1956–1967 along with her husband Earl Reitsma. Together they were leader and co-leader of numerous climbs of various peaks in North America. Earl received his 36 peak award and Ruth received her 26 peak award. In June 1966 Ruth led a successful all-women’s ascent of Mt. Hood. Climbing partners included Dave Bohen, Edwin Rieger, Bill and Margaret Oberteuffer, and Jack Grauer. Other climbing friends included the Whittaker brothers. A lifelong outdoorswoman, her worldwide travels included living for two years in Afghanistan. Her appreciation of the outdoors was passed on to her children in numerous camping, hiking, skiing, and snowshoeing adventures.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members:..........................24 Sugar Ambrosio—Mt. St. Helens Paige Baugher—Mt. Rainier Jeff Benson—Mt. St. Helens Lisa Bordner—Mt. St. Helens Douglas Brittain—Mt. Adams Stephen Christy—Mt. St. Helens Katie Dahlin—Mt. Hood Aimee Filimoehala—Mt. St. Helens Nancy Gadd—Mt. St. Helens Peter Goddyn—Mt. St. Helens Jenna Holland—Mt. St. Helens Joshua Kevek—Mt. St. Helens Alex Mooney—Mt. St. Helens Brianna Murphy—Mt. St. Helens Prasanna Narendran—Mt. Hood James Oberholtzer—South Sister Ryan Ohlmann—South Sister Karly Osten—Mt. St. Helens Marnie Pearsall—Mt. Kilimanjaro Zachary Ray—South Sister Calvin Richardson—Mt. St. Helens David Rosenbaum—Mt. Hood Tyler Russell—Mt. Rainier Robert Sprinkle—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements:....................................5 Deceased:...........................................2 Total Membership: May 31, 2016—3,499 May 31, 2017—3,518

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 29 (2016), Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek.

Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst: Del Profitt. Kartikeya Goyal, Karen Graves, Virgil Hall, Andrew Leaf, Michelle Lin, Meggan Low, Amrish Menjoge, John Merrill

Duncan Hart, David Kurushima, Steven Loos, Dana Terhune, Rick Zeeb.

May 3, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Joe Powell. Courtney Rust, Lawrence Welsh, Adam Hass.

May 28, Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Michael Austin. Chris Brox, Jean Hillebrand, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Andrew Rose-Innes, Gregory Simons.

May 6, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Ryan Schademan. Laetitia Bruneau, Fred Dalsager, Teresa Dalsager, Christine Hadekel.

May 8, Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: John Andrews. Eric Dattoli, Betsy Gascon, Ryan Geary, Valerie Geary, Steve Haberkorn, Walker McAninchRunzi, Martin Rio. May 8, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Ralph Daub. Chris Brox, Milton Diaz, Lindsey Mayo, Tucker Miles, Steve Mogentale, Robert Sinnott, Luke Slater, Steve Wecks.

May 8, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Karen Graves. Sue Dimin, Thomas Doherty, Nancy Gadd, Elizabeth Toepel.

May 10, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Stacey Reding. Thomas Doherty, Jeffery Filimoehala, Patrick Hennessy, Ross Hiner, Nimesh Patel, Ryan Shannon, Kirby Young.

May 22, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: John Meckel. David Carrier, Lori Coyner, Bridget Martin, Rico Micallef.

May 24, Rooster Rock, South Face. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Larry Buzan, Michael Dahlin, Maureen Delaney, Laura Evans,

May 26, Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir.

Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Marc Milobinski. Lori Coyner, Meggan Low, Walker McAninch-Runzi.

May 28, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Thomas Miller, Asst: Kent Kimball. Carmel Adrian, Matthew Gardner, Jenna Holland, Rebecca Morris, Andrew Neal, Kirk Rohrig, David Rosenbaum, Jacob Shue, Christine Troy, Steve Weeks.

May 31, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Nicole Gaines. Michael Dahlin, Sergi Kunsevich, Matt Lewis, Gregory Long, Lauren Mason, Jill Reynolds, Cooper Roslund, Aimee Shoemaker, Rebecca Silverman.

May 31, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Stephen Zadrozny. David Acton, Rebecca Corcoran, Anne Harris, Julie Kentosh, Michael Olson, Gregory Simons, Andrew Wendlandt.

June 2, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Josh Gesler. Pam Bishop, Anne Boeder, Clinton Carpenter, Andy Goetz, Nimesh Patel, Scott Templeton.

June 3, Unicorn Peak,Snow Lake. Leader: Alex Fox, Asst: Andrew Leaf. Connor Chamberlin, Dave Goodman, Joshua Hay, Bom Kaminski, Jessica Minife, Prajwal Mohan, Andie Wright.

June 3, Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Laura Guderyahn. Craig Karls, Alex McDonald, Chaitanya Sathe.

JULY 2017 15

Strategic Plan Update: July 2017 WE ARE I NVE ST I

NG

s rce

These three objectives contained a variety of goals and strategies. There are currently nine strategic projects in motion to achieve these objectives. This page provides you with an update on the status of these nine projects. For more details, go to mazamas.org.

e Tim

Res ou

The Mazamas is in its 3rd year of its current 3-year plan. We have made significant progress on the goals laid out in that plan.

MORE Climbs & Activities ONLINE Profiles & Registration NEW Programs & Much More!

Mo

EXPAND

Core Programs O

O

ack Tr

2

3

Reinvent leadership development systems and structures.

Create a mission-based policy agenda and lead with outreach and advocacy.

Business Operations O

Delayed

n

ack Tr

ack Tr

Reinvent our IT systems.

Delayed

O

n

4

ack Tr

ack Tr

ENHANCE

Restore management of historical collections with a focus on sharing stories.

On

n

n

1

5

Create a culture of giving and fundraise for priority projects.

6

Renovate our facilities to be welcoming, functional, and sustainable.

EXPLORE

O

n

n

Develop a 3-phase development and business operations plan for Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock State Park.

ack Tr

ack Tr

8

7

Strengthen the organizational structure and culture of the Mazamas.

New Opportunities O

16 MAZAMAS

n ey

9

Develop youth outreach programs and related events.

EXPAND

1 2 3

Core Programs Progress: Program staff met with members of the Mountaineers, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the American Alpine Club to create a draft volunteer leader standard for Mountain Walking and Trekking. Staff is currently evaluating using professional guides for climb leader training in the next couple of months.

Next Action: Communicate the draft standard for Mountain Walking and Trekking and collect feedback from stakeholders within the Mazamas. Continue working on the leader standards with our partner mountain organizations. Evaluate the efficacy of utilizing professional guides in leader training.

Progress: The Mazama Library is now online! The library catalog is searchable from the Mazama website, and members may search for and checkout books via a computer kiosk in the library. Planning is in full swing for the Mazama Library & Historical Collections fundraiser on our 123rd anniversary, July 19.

Next Action: Continue with the communications regarding the online checkout system, distribute library barcodes, and evaluate the success of the July 19 event.

Progress: During the last few months the Mazamas and our partners at the Outdoor Industry Association and Outdoor Alliance, helped pass the Oregon Outdoor Recreation Day bill. The bill was signed on May 23 by Governor Kate Brown, and declares the first Saturday in June as Outdoor Recreation Day. We are still continuing work with legislators to create an Office of Outdoor Recreation, HB 3350, that would coordinate access issues, foster economic development in the outdoor recreation sector and link state agencies to our federal land managers.

Next Action: HB 3350, is currently in the Joint Ways and Means committee awaiting further review and funding.

The Mazamas and leaders throughout the state have formed the Oregon Outdoors Coalition to work on long-term strategies regarding access, conservation and sustainability in the outdoor recreation sector.

ENHANCE

4 5 6 7 8 9

Business Operations

Progress: We are well into Phase II of the IT system build, Visual Design & Web Tools. The new visual design was approved in mid-June, and we are proceeding to user experience. The first round of data migration was successful.

Next Action: Continue to source data for the final data migration, including climbing and hiking route descriptions, member participation information, and volunteer history. Bring our ambassador team online to begin working on beta testing in the UX phase.

Progress: The 2016 annual report was distributed in mid-April and we want to again thank all of our members, donors, supporters, and partners for helping us through a great year.

The Mazamas received notification of a sizable estate gift from past Mazama President Ken Hague, which will be reported on in more detail in a future Bulletin.

Next Action: Executive Council voted to approve a search to hire the Mazamas first Development Director to help manage donor relationships, grants, campaigns, legacy giving, and donor stewardship. A search firm will be engaged to assist the Executive Director and Executive Council in this process.

Progress: Bids for renovation work on Mazama Lodge were obtained and are higher than anticipated and budgeted (+70%).

Additionally, the construction timeframe requires and 8-week lodge shutdown. The project has been scheduled to start the day after Labor Day in 2018.

Next Action: Continue working with the architect and contractor to refine the lodge construction bid and project timeline, and evaluate funding options. A report on long range architectural planning and concept development for improvements to the MMC will be delivered at the August or September Executive Council meeting.

Progress: The departmental organizational structure was communicated to committee chairs, and the reporting structure from committee to department heads and then to the board is working well.

Next Action: The next strategic plan is being developed and envisions re-hiring a Mazama Volunteer Manager, a position most recently held by Kati Mayfield. This will be required to continue supporting traditional programs while maintaining focus on new opportunities and partnerships for outdoor education.

EXPLORE

New Opportunities Progress: The Mazamas Foundation Board of Directors voted unanimously to exercise the purchase option for the property in May of 2017. The application for the conditional use permit process is being finalized and will be submitted next month.

Next Action: Obtain the Conditional Use Permit and final schematic design by the end of June 2017 prior to making a decision to proceed with any development of the property.

Progress: Claire Nelson, Mazama Youth & Outreach Program Manager is now on the Advisory Committee with Oregon State University Extension Services which is determining how to fairly distribute state funding to all outdoor school proidders.

Next Action: Once the Oregon legislature determines the level of appropriation for outdoor school funding we will work with school districts to confirm next year’s program capacity for MMSS. Claire and Ann Griffin are gathering feedback from key partners (MESD, Centennial) to gauge participation for MMSS 2018 and we are exploring potential and capacity for program growth.

JULY 2017 17

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL: FOREIGN & DOMESTIC OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING AUG. 9–16 From Humbug Mountain State Park, we will hike approximately 70 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the California border. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with trails through the headlands. This is a diverse area with spectacular scenery.

Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; they can come for fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $105–$240 depending on the number of participants and member status. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15. (Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountain State Park.)

Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com), 503297-6344; Assistant Leader: TBD.

Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information.

Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

1510 NE 37th Ave, Portland, OR 97232 • www.mountainshop.net

18 MAZAMAS

Pena de Bernal from a street in Bernal.

Photo: Radek Chalupa

Va c a t i o n CRAGGING

by Radek Chalupa

S

o you have a bit of time off and are looking for a climbing trip that’s easy to plan and to pull off: no lengthy approaches, no pre-arranged visas, no on-the-ground fixers, no travel advisories to worry about.

You want to throw the gear together and drive; or perhaps you’re willing to go that extra mile (and can spend those extra dollars) and book airfare and pre-arrange some ground transport. Either way, you’re looking for an easy rock climbing fix.

The climbs that follow are not exactly off the beaten path but may get overlooked by many Northwest climbers; often taking a backseat to a more popular destination nearby—say doing your twelfth trip to Red Rocks instead of sampling Cochise. The choices below are roughly broken down by available vacation time and season.

continued on next page JULY 2017 19

Vacation, continued from previous page

Top: Shirley admiring the seal colony from atop the Wedding Cake formation on Tasmania. Bottom Left: Shirley on pitch 2 of Stud City at the Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania. Bottom Right: Scenic hike-in to The Moai formation on Tasmania. Photos: Radek Chalupa.

20 MAZAMAS

Shirley nearing the top (pitch 9) of the Abert route in Todra Gorge, Morocco Photos: Radek Chalupa

DAY TRIPS A quick climbing fix that allows you to sleep in your own bed and yet still provides a satisfying outing does not need to involve Beacon Rock, Smith, Index, or Trout Creek. Washington and Oregon are chockfull of interesting formations scattered throughout the foothills of the Cascades.

Many involve only a couple hours of driving and a few have decent quality rock. The two formations mentioned here have seen some recent route development and so they should each be good for a few outings.

Steins Pillar is an approximately 350 ft. volcanic plug located about a 30 minute drive east of Prineville, Oregon. It is like a sibling of Monkey Face with slightly worse rock but in a more dramatic setting.

The original summit route, the 5-pitch Northeast Face, is a fun aid climb for most and a good step up in difficulty from the Pioneer Route. Additionally, the 5-pitch 5.10+ Southwest Face offers good free (or free-ish) climbing with some dramatic exposure and only a touch of chossy stone.

The route has updated hardware and traverses a mix of traditional and bolted terrain. Lastly, the Tammy Joe Memorial route, a modern 5.11+ sport affair reportedly located on the proud arête just left of the Southwest Face offers the hard wo/men something to get excited about as well. The best season for Steins is probably fall when the larch trees in the valley below turn gold.

The sunny southeast face of Wolf Rock (45 minute drive NE of Blue River, Oregon) offers some of the longer crag routes in Oregon. From rarely repeated aid climbs to modern, mostly bolted pitches, and the in-between, classic Barad-Dur route, an 8-pitch 5.11- (or 5.10 A0) that features a mix of updated and original fixed gear as well as some trad protected pitches.

An easier (modernized) option is a route called Morgul Vale—similar in length and about 5.9-5.10- in difficulty depending on the variations taken. Both routes reach the summit (neither would be any fun to rappel) and feature a somewhat adventurous descent. In addition to a section in the Climbing Guide to Northwest Oregon book by Tim Olson (which also includes descriptions for the multitude of single pitch routes along the base of the wall), good information can be found

online. The best season for Wolf is likely spring to early summer or fall.

WEEKEND TRIPS Here are a couple of granite climbing options to fill up a winter or summer weekend that involve flying. Cochise Stronghold, about an hour east of Tucson, is a collection of granite domes and spires.

It seems that places like Red Rocks or Joshua Tree absorb most of the climbing snowbirds migrating down from the Pacific Northwest in the winter while overlooking Cochise. If you enjoy mid-sized multi-pitch climbing (both trad and bolted), this area is well worth your effort. Pulling this off on a weekend involves flying into Phoenix on Friday night and driving about 2.5 hours. You can camp either on the east side (established) or the west side (primitive) of the Stronghold, with the two being separated by about an hour of driving time.

The route options range from slabby, 10-ish pitch affairs on The Sheepshead formation (west) to steeper, more crimpy and with occasional cracks, 4-6 pitch outings on the spectacular Rockfellow Domes (east).

Although there’s an outstanding 5.6 (with A0) route called What’s My Line which involves about 3 long pitches of the famous “chicken head” pulling, the options really open up at 5.10- and above. Routes such as Endgame (5 pitch, 5.10-), Days of Future Passed (4 pitch, 5.10), Absinthe of Mallet (8 pitch, 5.9+) and Abracadaver (5 pitch, 5.11-) are not to be missed. Two excellent guidebooks are available: one by Geir Hundal and one (2-volume set) by Tanya Bok. Keep in mind that many of the routes are closed for nesting birds starting in late winter.

A somewhat similar, summer-time option is the famous Needles crag in

continued on next page JULY 2017 21

Vacation, continued from previous page southern California. Doing this trip on a 2-day weekend involves some caffeineenhanced driving enthusiasm as the closest airports with good connections are in the LA area. Though the colorful lichen covered granite formations remind one of Cochise, the area is more compact and the climbing routes tend to involve crisp crack systems. There are a handful of camping spots right at the trailhead and the closest town (Kernville) is about an hour’s drive away. Classic routes start at about 5.8 (e.g. White Punks on Dope) and the grades quickly increase. Moderate lines of Igor Unchained (4 pitch, 5.9) and Thin Ice (4 pitch, 5.10-) are outstanding. A new guidebook by Kris Solem is available online.

EXTENDED WEEKEND TRIPS For those 4-5 day “weekends”, two monoliths offer some interesting climbing in somewhat different settings and with vastly different climbing styles.

Devils Tower in the northeastern corner of Wyoming would be a great short weekend option were it not located in the middle of nowhere. There are currently no direct flights to any nearby airports from Portland. As such, you’re looking at some flying and driving (4hrs from Billings, MT) or a ton of driving (18hrs from Portland). The destination justifies the effort, however, soaring crack systems put you on the summit of this stunning geological oddity in about 4-6 pitches. The entry level climb is the North American Classic of Durrance Route—a 6-pitch line originally rated 5.6 but this rating has crept up as a high as 5.8 in some modern descriptions. The harder but equally classic El Matador (5 pitch, 5.10+) is also not to be missed. The crowning jewel of that route is an approximate 140 ft. stem box formed by the columnar basalt that will make your calves scream. The routes are overwhelmingly crack climbs (trad) and there’s much to do in the 5.8 to 5.11 range.

The KOA campground at the foot of The Tower offers decent tent sites. Though we’ve once snuck in a day of climbing in mid-February, Devils Tower is a good shoulder-season destination.

Most climbers have heard of the multipitch sport climbing mecca of El Potrero Chico outside of Monterrey in Mexico (itself a very reasonable place to go for 4 or 5 days). The place is indeed one of those 22 MAZAMAS

perfect climbing-holiday destination. For something a little bit off the beaten path, with far fewer routes but equally friendly bolting, Pena de Bernal monolith in central Mexico offers enough multi-pitch climbs to justify a 4-5 day stay. Climbs that reach the summit are in the 5-6 pitch range and vary in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12. Typically it is crimpy face climbing on some unusual but solid stone. At least two new moderate (5.10-ish) routes have gone up in the last 2 years and so it’s worthwhile to let your fingers do a bit of online exploring before you go. Older routes are described in two guidebooks available at rockclimbingmexico.com. The logistics involve flying into either Mexico City (probably cheaper and the inner-city airport makes for some interesting driving) or Queretaro. From there you have to drive to the charming town of Bernal (one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos) in the state of Queretaro. Not sure about camping but affordable motel options seemed abundant. Good climbing and excellent gorditas.

WEEKLONG TRIPS For those times when you have a full week available, two potential destinations on two different continents should make your list: Todra Gorge in central Morocco, ideal for early to late spring (or fall); and Los Arenales in Argentina whose prime rock climbing season is in the dead of our winter.

Todra (or Todgha) Gorge, some 20 km north of the town of Tinghir, is an about one kilometer long, dramatically narrow cleft with limestone walls. The climbs are up to a few hundred meters long (about 10 pitches) and the vast majority of the classics are essentially bolted (though a few friends might come in handy). The rock is a sharp, golden color limestone and the geometry of the gorge makes it possible to tailor your climbs to sunny vs. shady faces depending on the ambient temperature.

Two classic lines that are not to be missed are Tiwira (8 pitches, 6a+) and Voie Abert a.k.a. Classic (9 pitches, 6b). Both easier and harder options are available with just enough multi-pitch climbing to last about a week. The recommended place to stay is at the Tiwira Guest House some 15-20 minute walk from most climbs. Here you’ll not only find a very welcoming family atmosphere (including home-cooked, tagine meals), but you can also get advice

and a general area orientation from the local climber Abdul. In addition, cab rides from and to Marrakesh (the closest international airport, some 6–7 scenic driving hours away and, in 2017, about 140 Euros each way) can be pre-arranged through Abdul and his family (brah. fadil_85@hotmail.com). On rest days, you can check out Kasbah, the next-door hike in the surrounding mountains, or take a taxi to the nearby (2 hrs.) Dades Gorge for some sightseeing.

Los Arenales is an alpine valley in the Argentinian foothills of the Andes some 3-4 hours driving time from the town of Mendoza. It features some excellent granite trad climbing on buttresses and towers up to 500 meters in length (though the vast majority of the routes are a bit shorter).

Although there are probably a few weeks’ worth of classic moderate lines here, our favorites included Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas or MNHCC route on El Cohete (~11 pitches, 6b) and Armonica en Campanille (7 pitches, 6a+). The logistics involve flying into Mendoza, renting a car and stocking up on food supplies (as well as some excellent local Malbec), then driving south, and either car camping or hiking up valley some 20 minutes to a “refugio” that offers an enclosed cooking space. Once established in camp, the majority of the climbs can be done tent-totent in a day. We have found the weather here to be more stable than crags further south (e.g. Frey or Cochamo in Chile). All the climbing beta can be found in the new guidebook arenalesclimbing.com.

TWO WEEKS AND BEYOND Really, the only limitations here are the budget and your imagination. Trips longer than a week are usually reserved for those destinations that are either a little bit harder to access and/or have slightly more unstable weather. Two possible locales that fit this bill are the Dolomites in northeastern Italy (great for the height of our summer) and the Australian island of Tasmania (ideal during the depths of our winter). Both involve flying in, renting a car, and driving yourself to the multitude of climbs that each area has to offer. Neither require visas and both can be planned as a mix of camping and hotel or alpine hut stays. Both can have capricious weather: 2 or 3 days of rain followed by a couple days of climbable conditions.

The Dolomites are a range of steep, limestone mountains—picture brightly colored, jagged peaks contrasting with the picturesque verdant valleys below.

Many airports would work as access points and we’ve used both Munich (just over the border in Germany) as well as Venice for our trips there. The classic routes span a wide range of difficulties (5.4 and up) and the lengths can be tailored to one’s desires; from a few pitches and up to 15 or more. The classic routes have some in-situ protection, mainly fixed pitons of questionable quality, and most belays are fixed (though almost never with modern bolts).

A light to mid-sized trad rack is almost always a necessity.

There are simply too many classic routes to list, but the ones we found memorable were the famous Spigolo Giallo on Cima Piccola (13 pitches and 5.9) and the Comici route on the north face of Cima Grande (16 pitches and 5.10)— both are in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo area. We also enjoyed the 18-pitch (5.9ish) Pillar Rib on Tofana di Rozes and the Tissi route on the south face of Torre Venezia (15 pitch, 5.8). Very good climbing information can be found in the book by Kohler and Memmel (English edition available).

The rock climbs in Tasmania cannot match the length of the Dolomite classics but what they lack in scale, they more than make up for in variety: from dramatic sea stacks that often require a swim to access, to the multipitch splitter crack routes of the Ben Lomond Plateau (a bit like Devils Tower), to the granite domes of the Freycinet Peninsula. There is even some suburban cragging at Mt. Wellington located high above the island’s principle town of Hobart. Both the west side and the interior of the island feature some multi-pitch mountain routes (Frenchman Cap) but the weather never cooperated sufficiently for us to attempt them during our two week stay. With a longish approach hike, a mandatory swim and two exciting tyroleans to set up, climbing The Candlestick sea stack was likely the highlight of our trip. Good and free climbing data can be found at thesarvo.com/confluence/display/ thesarvo/Tasmania. Otherwise, a book of select climbs by Gerry Narkowicz can be purchased online.

VOLUNTEERS COZY UP TO THE LODGE

by Bob Stayton The spring Mazama Lodge workday convened on June 3 with a smaller than expected, but highly motivated group of seven hearty folks.

Volunteers started the day cutting down a dead tree and splitting it up for winter firewood. The lodge then transformed from a winter snow chalet to a summer relaxation hub thanks to the volunteers who took down all of the snow fences and shutters and set up the porch and fire ring for optimal seating. Inside, folks got busy repairing the pool and foosball tables and repairing the rugs.

Thanks to Phil Baird, Brook Harris, Ed Rea, Marie and Tom Quarels, Jim VanLente, plus the lodge staff Charles, Jake, and Renee who braved the rainy day and cool temps to keep our home on the mountain an amazing place to visit.

VOLUNTEERS STILL NEEDED! If you can help get one or more of the projects below completed, please contact the lodge manager, Charles, at mazama.lodge@ mazamas.org or the Lodge Committee chair, Bob Stayton, at rstayton@comcast.net.

REMAINING PROJECTS:

STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas. blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/ MazamasAds for details.

▶▶ Teepee set up. We will need 3–4 people, preferably with previous experience. ▶▶ Splitting and stacking firewood. There are many logs and rounds by the splitter that need to be split and stacked. This will go on all summer. ▶▶ Processing skid logs. There are felled trees on the upper westside of the ski hill that need to be skidded down to the lodge for processing into fire wood. ▶▶ Brush chipping and chipper needed. The tree that came down left a pile of branches adjacent to the circle driveway that can be chipped if we can get a chipper to use to do the work.

Experience required. ▶▶ Still one snow shutter left to take down on upper east-side window. Needs two folks and ladder. ▶▶ Mattresses need to be washed. ▶▶ Windows need to be cleaned.

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Mazamas IT Project A New Way of Doing (Almost) Everything is Coming Soon

by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Director of Marketing & Communication We have completed the build of the new database (CRM) that will power the new website experience, completed our first round of data migration (importing data into the new system), and signed off on the new home page design. This project update provides you with a high level timeline as well as details on some of the new website features that we will all be able to utilize starting in early 2018. At the end of the climbing season, you should start rounding up any old climb cards, because we will not be using them in 2018!

Streamlined Your new Mazama website experience has been completely redesigned for simplicity. Four main navigation options on the home page align with what we do at the Mazamas: Education, Activities, Community, and Get Involved. Subnavigation on the homage page will lead you directly to other important topics, such as Volunteer, Membership Info, About Us, Calendar and Search.

Full Event & Activity List All activities and events at the Mazamas will be viewable in one location and will be easily searchable. Interested in climbing Mt. Hood in June? You can search for that. How about going on a hike in the Gorge in July with kids? You can search for that too. Our homepage will have a short list of upcoming events, and you’ll be able to dive into a full list of opportunities with one click.

Search A robust search feature will allow you to quickly and easily search the entire Mazama website and see your results sorted by topic, such as: Education, Activities, Volunteer Opportunities, and more.

Volunteer Opportunities Interested in volunteering with the Mazamas? On our new site you’ll have the ability to add your volunteer interests and skills to your personal profile. You can then explore the volunteer opportunities available and sign up for volunteer shifts through the website. You can record your volunteer hours. The best part? We’ll be able to tally up all of the hours Mazama volunteers are donating to the organization AND recognize you for your contribution.

Want to Help?

We could use some volunteer who are willing to do research and data entry on climbs and hikes that will be entered into the new system. Interested? Email sarah@mazamas.org

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June 2017

Sept. 2017

CRM & IT Tools Complete, and Home Page Concept Approved

Website & User Profiles Complete

July 2017

Complete Visual Design Phase

Nov. 2017

Complete Activities & Multi-Part Activities, and beta-testing

Nov. 2017–Jan. 2018 Implementation, integration, and beta-testing

Feb.–April 2018

Launch system via phases

Participant Profile All Mazama Members and anyone who wants to participates in a Mazama activity can create a participant profile. This profile will include basic information such as contact information, but will also contain more detailed information—think the types of things you currently include on a climb card or outings application—and the user will have the ability to customize what data is public and what data is private.

Mazama Badges

Mazama Badges are going to be a visual way for you to track and display your involvement with the Mazamas. From activtity badges to skill badges to award badges, you’ll be able to earn badges for just about anything you do at the Mazamas! Badges will not only allow you to track what you do with the Mazamas, but they will also unlock opportunities for you within the Mazamas. For example, a certain climb might require a certain skill badge. If you have the badge, you’ll be able to apply for the climb. If you don’t have the skill badge, you’ll have the opportunity to apply for the badge.

Activity Registration NO MORE CLIMB CARDS!!! You will sign up for all Mazamas classes and activities through the Mazama website. You’ll complete your Mazama profile so that all required data for a class or activity is already on file. When you are ready to apply for an activity, you be prompted to provide some activity specific information, but there’ll be no need to repeatedly enter your basic information, such as contact info, class history, and activity history into the system. Anything you do with the Mazamas will automatically be a part of your profile. AND, you’ll have the opportunity to enter relevant external training and activity history into your profile.

Activity Tracking When you sign up for an activity—a class, climb, hike, outing, etc ...—you’ll be able to see your status in your online profile. If you are accepted, you will receive all the relevant information through links on your personal profile. Once you complete the activity, your status in that activity will be recorded on your profile.

Telling Our Story in Photos The new Mazama website will showcase the beauty of our mountains and trails, and people outside enjoying them. We are looking for photos that woudl be a good fit. Would you like to submit your photos for consideration? You can send a link to a curated photo folder online or email your photos to sarah@mazamas.org.

JULY 2017 25

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s and 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check our website, tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities, and AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule.

All trips are $2 member/$3 nonmember.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? For a social introduction to the group, be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location.

GREEN POINT MOUNTAIN LOOP HIKE JULY 1, 7:30 A.M. Green Point Mountain, one of the high points on Waucoma Ridge, offers excellent views across to Mt. Defiance and Mt. Adams.

Join us on this summer trek as we explore an old growth forest of fir and hemlock, stroll along the banks of North Lake and stop for pictures in a rock-studded meadow rimmed with Sitka alder. Total distance 8 mi., 1,275 ft. elevation gain, driving time 120 minutes each way. Meet at the Gateway Transit Center.

Wilderness area—group limited to 12. RSVP to leader Kirk Rohrig at kirk.rohrig@gmail. com. Assistant leader: Keith Dechant.

MACLEAY TRAIL RUN JULY 19, 6 P.M. Ready to condition? Come along for an after-work trail run in Forest Park. Gentle 9 minute pace for 4 miles celebrated with coffee and scones afterward. Meet at the St. Honore' Bakery. RSVP to leader Toby Creelan at toby@creelan.com.

OAK ISLAND LOOP HIKE JULY 20, 6 P.M. Traipse through young ash and cottonwood on this after work hike of Sauvie Island. 2.8 mi., 30 ft. elevation gain. Meet at the entrance to the NW New Seasons. RSVP to leader Toby Creelan at toby@creelan.com.

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Adventurous Young Mazamas took advantage of Oregon State Parks free camping and fishing weekend June 3-4, staying at Nehalem Bay State Park on the Oregon Coast. We hiked on the beach, dug and cooked purple varnish clams, and conquered the summit of Neahkahnie Mountain (elevation 1,680'). Photo: Sándor Lau.

OPAL CREEK HIKE JULY 22, 6:30 A.M. This wonderful area is home to some of the Cascade Range's largest trees and deepest green pools. We'll hike to Jawbone Flats and then stop to check out Opal pool. If there is time and interest we will continue upstream to less crowded Cedar Flats, passing several beautiful pools. 7.2 mi., 500 ft. elevation gain.

(Cedar Flats is 10 mi. and 500 ft. elevation gain). Drive 186 mi. round-trip. NW Forest Pass required at trailhead. Wilderness area— group limited to 12. Meet at the NW corner of the Gateway Transit Center. RSVP to leader Reena Clements at reenac@bu.edu.

YOGA NIGHT JULY 24, 6:30 P.M., CLASS 7–8 P.M. Join us for post-weekend recovery with yoga at a local studio in the Pearl. Meet at Bedrock Coffee. RSVP to leader Toby Creelan at toby@ creelan.com.

GOLD BUTTE LOOKOUT BACKPACKING TRIP JULY 28–30, 12:15 P.M. Up for vistas? Join us overnight at Gold Butte lookout, whence we'll backpack the Battle Ax loop overlooking Opal Creek. On the drive out, enjoy a daytime soak at Breitenbush Hot Springs. $10 members $20 non-members and shared rental cost. NW Forest Pass required.

6 mi., 1,765 ft. elevation gain, B2. Meet at the MMC. RSVP to leader Toby Creelan at toby@ creelan.com.

OBSIDIAN WILDERNESS/PERSEID METEOR SHOWER BACKPACKING TRIP AUGUST 12–13, 6 A.M. Join us for a wilderness trek during the year's best meteor shower. We'll see alpine wildflowers and flows of glass in the Obsidian Falls limited entry area. 16 mi., 2,800 ft. elevation gain, B3. $20/$10 members. NW Forest Pass required. Capped at eight hikers.

Meet at the MMC. RSVP to leader Toby Creelan at toby@creelan.com.

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN SEPT. 2–4

The lodge will be open 7 days a week starting on June 8–Aug. 21. Please check the online calendar for availability as there are dates that are not available. If you are looking for a quieter time this summer, June 8–13, July 2–6, and the week of August 14–18.

Join the Mazamas 11th annual Round the Mountain (RTM) hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend.

You will experience hiking a majestic 40 miles of the Timberline Trail with spectacular views of Mt. Hood and the beginning of autumn colors. Get full details and register: tinyurl.com/ MazRTM

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED! If you are up for some hard work for a good cause, please consider volunteering for the Mazama Lodge. See the Volunteer Opportunities section for more information!

SUMMER SPEAKER SERIES The summer speaker series offers dinner at 5 p.m. and a program at 6 p.m. Dinner is $13.25.

Sandor's Magic Hour Tour of Oregon: July 2 Photographer, writer, and filmmaker Sándor Lau gives a tour of Oregon at that fleeting magic hour just after sunrise and just before sunset where Mother Nature shows off her best. He got up early to take these pictures so you don’t have to!

Climbing the Iron Paths of the Dolomites: Sept. 3 Mazamas John Leary, Jim Palo, John Creager and Terry Olson experienced the thrill of walking and climbing via ferrata in the Dolomites in Italy. A via ferrata, the iron way, is a mountain route equipped with steel cables, ladders, fixed anchors and a few wooden walkways and suspended bridges.

NESIKA LODGE WEEKEND JULY 22–23 Enjoy an overnight and some excellent trails at the spectacular Trails Club Nesika Lodge tucked on the side of the Gorge, off the grid, with stunning views of the Columbia River.

With all food and beverages provided by the friendly Mazama Lodge crew, all you need to bring is your sleeping bag, personal items, and lunch for Saturday’s hike.

On Saturday we'll hike from Multnomah Falls Lodge over to Wahkeena Falls and on up to Nesika Lodge and enjoy stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge, approx. 6 miles and 2,100 ft. gain. An excellent chuckwagon-

style dinner will be served, and afterwards you are free to hike, yodel, relax, or help clean up the dishes!

On Sunday morning you can sleep in and enjoy a great hot breakfast, before hiking up to Sherrad Point on Larch Mountain via the Franklin Ridge and Oneonta Trails.

Alternatively, some hikers may want to hike down from Nesika Lodge to the Multnomah Falls Lodge (4 mi.).

Weekend Menu: ▶▶ Appetizers, Selection of Cheeses, Crackers, and Pickled Vegetables ▶▶ Spinach Salad with Sesame Vinaigrette

▶▶ Sautéed Summer Vegetables ▶▶ Roasted Red Potatoes ▶▶ Baked Portabello Mushrooms with Tomatoes, Basil and Garlic (Vegan Entrée) Stuffed Pork Loin served with Pear au Jus ▶▶ Chocolate Cake Registration: $55 Members/$65 nonmembers, includes Mazama trail fees and Saturday dinner, and Sunday lunch and breakfast.

For full details and to register, go to: tinyurl. com/MazLodgeEvents. Questions: Rick Amodeo rickamodeo@yahoo.com; Charles Barker mazamalodge@mazamas.org.

Lodge committee members Brook and Phil stockpile firewood for next winter.

We still need volunteers! See the Volunteer Opportunities Section for more information.

JULY 2017 27

1 28 MAZAMAS

s a m a z a M A HISTORY OF THE

IN OBJECTS

by Matthew Brock

T

he Mazama Library and Historical Collections has for over 40 years collected artifacts, documents, and photographs from the organization’s exploits and adventures around the Pacific Northwest. In honor of the Mazamas 123rd Anniversary, we present an abridged history using 10 important objects from Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

1894–1905: Cooper Spur Photograph, Cooper Spur party nearing summit of Mt. Hood, July 19, 1894 Taken on the afternoon of July 19, 1894 by Charles C. Lewis, the photograph captures the climbers' enthusiasm and embodies the spirit of the Mazamas. In the photograph, George Williams holds an alpenstock with upraised arm.

For many years the original photograph hung behind the counter of his drug store in Hood River.

After he passed away, the Mazamas acquired the photograph. Early reproductions of the image removed the climber bent over the snow cornice due to the indecent nature of his pose and the position of the fixed rope. The members of the Cooper Spur party became part of the 153 men and 38 women who gained the summit that day to found the Mazamas. VM 1993.011

JULY 2017 29

2

10 Objects, continued from previous page 1905–1915: Vest Pocket Camera More than first ascents or daring climbs, photography captured the public's imagination and drove early interest in mountaineering. The development of smaller and cheaper hand-held cameras in the late 1880s introduced a new form of personal photography that focused more on action and less on the landscape.

Photography was one of a few 'professions' deemed acceptable for Victorian ladies and female climbers who were key to the growth of mountaineering photography. Women mountaineers exhibited their photographs in galleries and exhibitions, helping to increase public interest in mountaineering.

The 1901 Mazama Annual features four pages of advertisements for cameras, highlighting the growing importance of photography to the Mazamas and mountaineering. The rise in the number of photographs in alpine journals, including the Mazama Annual, points to the increasing value that mountaineers placed on photographs to help tell their story. By the end of the 19th century climbing and photography had become interconnected. O1986.111.003 Kirk Mulder Collection

1916–1929: Monthly Bulletin, Issue No. 1, May 1923 By the early 1920s membership in the Mazamas had reached 600 and the organization was starting to experience growing pains. More members meant more activities and multiple means of communication. The organization was printing and mailing separate schedules, prospectuses, event flyers, meeting announcements, and election materials all at increasing cost.

In 1922 Harold Babb proposed establishing a Mazama monthly.

The goal was simple: to publish all the upcoming events and news in one convenient location, so members could stay up to date. The first issue of the Mazama Bulletin, as it has been known ever since, appeared in May of 1923. Interest and demand was high. The June issue held an announcement that subscriptions would be opened to non-members at a cost of $.50 year in response to demand.

The establishment and wide distribution of information about the Mazamas via the Bulletin, helped issue in an era of membership growth that would hold until the onset of the Great Depression in the fall of 1929. MA06.08 Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

30 MAZAMAS

3

1930–1941: Climbing Committee, Minutes from the first climbing study group meeting, May 1933.

In 1933 a movement that had been building for several years calling for better climbs came to a head. The Local Walks Committee was struggling under organizing 53 weekly hikes and dozens of mountain climbs. The council formed a study group to take charge of all mountain climbs except those associated with the Annual Outing. The idea stirred strong feelings both for and against the new endeavor. One member of the study group proposed an amendment to the bylaws creating a real Climbing Committee, a move the Executive Council deferred to the upcoming Annual Meeting. The new climbing study group caught on with the membership and by June the pressure was intense enough that the council granted "temporary" status to the new committee. Unconvinced, many old-timers voiced concern for such a revolutionary change to the organization's climbing philosophy and procedures.

The new committee worked hard to establish goals and guidelines governing climb leader qualifications and sponsored climbs. In the limited time granted them, the committee engineered 12 successful climbs and generated great enthusiasm within the rank and file membership for their accomplishments. As a result, the bylaw amendment making the committee permanent passed at the Annual Meeting with ease.

The origin of the Climbing Committee gave rise to much of the modern Mazamas.

All the current education programs grew from the original goal of training and outfitting climbers. The Mazama Climbing School, a precursor to today's Basic Climber Education Program, began to instill new climbers with the foundational knowledge and skills to be safe on the mountain. Intermediate and advanced courses were added to enable established climbers to learn more advance skills. Thanks to the establishment of the Climbing Committee, the number of official Mazama climbs increased steadily year after year from a dozen or so to the nearly two hundred yearly climbs offered today. MA03.04.01 Climb Committee Records.

4

1942–1953: Carabiner, U.S. Army Mountain and Cold Weather Training Command

5

World War II was a boon to mountaineers. Military scientists developed nylon, and the army experimented with making ropes from the new materials. Nylon, they soon discovered, was less likely to break, stronger when wet, and provided better stretch than the hemp ropes in use at the time. In 1939 Vitale Bramani, an Italian climber, developed a new sole for boots that he named for himself, Vibram. The soles gripped better on slippery surfaces and lacked the cold-conducting hobnails then in widespread use. The Army's famed 10th Mountain Division worked with ice axes, pitons, hammers, tents, and sleeping bags, many of them U.S. designs based on European products. The war generated a surplus of military gear of all types. Especially important were mountain boots, ropes, pitons, hammers, and carabiners (then known as snap links).

When World War II ended, Mazamas returned home and the pent up desire for mountaineering burst forth like a wave. Wartime rationing ended in August of 1945 and the first postwar automobiles rolled off a Detroit assembly line in October of 1945. Soon the road up to Government Camp was crowded again. Climbers and mountaineers benefited from improvements in the quality of mountain and cold weather clothing, equipment, and food. The simple carabiner, adopted by the airborne forces to secure parachute static lines to safety cables inside the airplanes, were produced in large quantities of good quality metal. After the war, the surplus carabiners benefited the entire climbing community. ca 1950, O1989.152.005, Dale Gallagher Collection

continued on next page JULY 2017 31

10 Objects, continued from previous page 1954–1965: Mountain Goat, carved by Carl Sakrison

6

In early December 1959 catastrophe struck the Mazamas when their magnificent mountain lodge burned to the ground. Several items survived the blaze, including six dining room chairs, an upright piano, and a carved mountain goat. An investigation found that a wiring short in the caretaker's quarters caused the blaze. The loss of the lodge brought to a head a controversy that had been brewing for years between two Mazamas factions.

On one hand was a group advocating for a new clubhouse. Starting in 1955, a vocal group of Mazamas began pushing for a permanent home. A survey of the membership that year showed three-quarters of the members supported the idea, but only if the club could afford it. After the fire, the "Clubhouse Now" advocates argued that the Mazamas should abandon the idea of rebuilding the lodge and concentrate on a new headquarters immediately. On the other hand was a group of members who advanced the idea that the Mazamas was more of a social club with mountaineering interests. They based their case on the fact that more members attended the various outings, hikes, and events than ever went mountain climbing.

They believed that a new home on the mountain was more important than a permanent home in town.

As the antagonism grew between the two groups, the Executive Council took action and surveyed the membership. An amazing 66% of the membership favored rebuilding the lodge as soon as possible. The council took the results as a mandate. They disbanded the Clubhouse Building Committee, closed down its fund-raising activities, and moved forward on rebuilding the lodge. The move broke the opposition and a few of the ardent clubhouse advocates resigned. The new, and current, Mazama lodge opened 18 months after the fire with a ceremony that featured open-pit barbecue and fireworks. ca 1930, Mazama Lodge

Support YOUR historical Collection! Attend the Library & Historical Collections Fundraiser

▶▶ July 19, 5:30–8:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center ▶▶ Tickets: tinyurl.com/maz-upcoming

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1978–1989: A Climbers Guide to the Smith Rocks, Vol XLIV, No. 13, Dec. 1962.

7

On January 1, 1960, three Mazamas, Vivian Staender, Dave Bohn, and Jim Fraser, made the first ascent of Monkey Face at Smith Rock. Later that year, the Oregon State Highway Department created Smith Rock State Park. In 1962 the Mazamas published the first ever guidebook to the area, A Climber’s Guide to the Smith Rocks. Together, these three events helped establish Smith Rock as an Oregon climbing destination and put it on track for national prominence.

Early climbers at Smith focused on peak-bagging and pinnacle climbing. Longtime Mazama George Cummings pioneered both Rattlesnake Chimney and Western Chimney in 1963. Over the next several years Cummings, Dave Jensen, and a host of others established many of the routes still in use today. The decade ended with Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz climbing Picnic Lunch Wall in 1969, an event that marked the crowning jewel of big-wall climbing at Smith.

The 1970s marked the golden age of climbing at Smith Rock. Aid climbing still dominated the sport while free climbing was coming of age. Smith Rock might have remained off the radar for many if not for the efforts of Jeff Thomas. "During a prolific period in the midto-late 1970s, Thomas dominated Smith climbing like none before him; his name became synonymous with Oregon free climbing." He established grade 5.11 and redefined Smith Rock climbing. For the better part of the decade, he pioneered a steady stream of new routes.

Rock climbing at Smith Rock changed rock climbing in Oregon and within the Mazamas.

From the beginning of the Mazamas, rock climbing was something that was done as a part of mountaineering, not as a sport unto itself. It was a means to ascend rocky mountain outcrops while wearing boots. The development of rock climbing at Smith Rock helped the Mazamas embrace rock climbing as a sport. Climbing went from a fringe subculture activity to a widespread and accepted sport. Besides, the nearness of Smith Rock and Horsethief Butte allowed for the growth of Mazama educational classes. And without the easy access to both Smith and Horsethief, the Mazamas Advanced Rock classes would have been difficult, if not impossible. Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

1966–1977: Chouinard Piolet Ice Axe Yvon Chouinard is a craftsman and a diligent student of his craft. In the 1950s and 1960s, he studied pitons and then redesigned them to be more efficient. He traveled to Europe to study ice climbing techniques and then adapted the ice axe with revolutionary results. His innovation was simple yet profound: "He drooped the pick on the ice axe so that when swung it would stick in the ice rather than shatter it, as all ice axes had done before" wrote Doug Robinson. The result was the ability for a climber to make a direct pull up holding the shaft. Before Chouinard's innovation, a traditional ax pick was usually straight and a downward pull resulted in the axe popping out of the ice. Using one of the new curved tools in each hand, a climber could advance up steep ice rapidly, placing the axes, pulling up, removing a tool and inserting them higher up. Robinson noted that "ice climbing suddenly jumped to vertical and beyond."

As a result of Chouinard’s technical advancements, Mazamas and mountaineers around the world, were safer and more confident in their mountaineering. Ice climbing, as a stand alone activity, also grew in prominence due to Chouinard's advancements. ca 1970, O2000.378.001 Brian Holcomb Collection

8

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10 Objects, continued from previous page

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1990–2001: La Sportiva climbing shoes The history of indoor climbing walls began in 1964 in a hallway at Leeds University in the United Kingdom.

Don Robinson noticed that climbers would end the climbing season strong in October only to return the next spring out of shape, out of practice, and prone to accidents. He replicated the most common climbing moves on a brick wall and soon climbers had not only mastered his simple routes, but were inventing new routes and games. By 1987 the fascination with indoor climbing had spread to the United States. During a climb of Aconcagua, Rich Johnston struck on the idea of creating a place for climbers to stay in shape after work and during the winter. Later that year he and a partner opened Vertical World in Seattle, the first indoor climbing wall in the United States. A year later the Portland Rock Gym opened in Portland.

By the early 1990s, indoor climbing was catching on with Mazamas of all ages and abilities. Indoor gyms offered a safe, warm, and dry environment for climbers to stay in shape, hone their skills, and try new techniques.

The gyms became a place to meet people, and a singles scene developed. Families started hosting birthday parties at climbing gyms, introducing a younger generation to the sport. Come spring, many Mazamas were in shape and ready to hit the crags at Smith Rock, Beacon Rock, and beyond. The indoor climbing walls helped rock climbing evolve from a sport for bold, skilled climbers toward a sport accessible to everyone. ca 1998, O1998.345.026, Terry Becker Collection

2002–2017: “Statement of Philosophy and Criteria,” New Mazama Clubrooms, Nov. 14, 1995 The Mazamas have had several homes over the past 123 years. Early in history, members met in various halls and meeting rooms. The Executive Council held meetings in members' homes and offices. Between 1914 and 1956 the Mazamas rented office space in several buildings around town. In 1957 overcrowding and lack of parking prompted the organization to move to 909 NW 19th and Kearney.

Efforts over the years to buy a building for the office and growing library never got off the ground. There was often an event or incident, such as the lodge fire, that drew attention and funds away from the effort to build or buy a new facility. For fifty years the Mazamas stayed in the 19th Avenue building, remodeling and renovating the space to meet the demands of a growing membership.

In the late 1990s the need for more space arose again. A small working group formed to research a new space. In November of 1995 the Executive Council circulated a “Statement of Philosophy and Criteria” outlining the needs of a new headquarters space. In 2005 the focus shifted to an old church and former fraternal brotherhood hall on SE 43rd Avenue. In 2007, after some renovations, the Mazamas moved in.

The Mazama Mountaineering Center has given the organization the solid foundation it needed to grow into the non-profit educational organization it is today. MA01.09.01, Executive Council Records, Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

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10

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

If you wish to contact the Classics, feel free to attend the committee meetings on every other fourth Monday of the month at the MMC at 11 a.m. You can also email classics@mazamas.org or call Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357.

LEADING EVENTS IN AUGUST Those wanting to lead need to reply to Rose Marie or classics@ mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

This hike will take about 3 hrs. Bring water and snacks. The Trail will emerge at OHSU. From there we will take the tram down to the south waterfront. This will take about 3 min. Next we will take the trolley from the waterfront to downtown Portland where we will transfer to the Max for a trip back to the Zoo. The trolley ride is about 20 min. We will pick a place for lunch/snack on this trip. At OHSU we will walk by their cafeteria or there are many fine places in downtown. Cost for the train and trolley is $2.50.

Hope for good weather. RSVP to Buzz Lindahl, 503-781-8956 or erlindahl@gmail.com.

MAZAMA TRAIL MAINTENANCE JULY 27–29, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. Annual maintenance on Mazama Trail. For those who might not feel like hiking the distance, Ray Sheldon will be working on the lower 1 mile. Volunteer 1 or all 3 days. See the Volunteer Opportunities section for more information and to sign up!

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED The Classics Committee needs some energetic volunteers to help plan events throughout the year. See the Volunteer Opportunities section for more information and to sign up!

TOM, DICK AND HARRY MOUNTAIN HIKE JULY 10, 9:30 A.M. A nice, casual hike—5.8 miles with 1,710 ft. elevation gain. The trailhead is located on the south shoulder of Highway 26, two miles west of Government Camp. In the rare instance that there are no other cars parked there, look for a log footbridge spanning Camp Creek, just east of milepost 51. RSVP to David Christopher, David.R.Christopher@gmail.com or 503-317-5660.

LIBRARY AND HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS FUNDRAISER JULY 19, 5:30–8:30 P.M. AT THE MMC An evening to support the library and historical collections.

Activities include, historical collections tours and displays, the showing of a restored 1930s climbing film, dinner, and a presentation by photographer and author Chris Noble, who will speak about his career and latest book Why We Climb. Tickets $55 at: tinyurl.com/maz-upcoming or call 503-227-2345.

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

4T TRAIL HIKE (TRAIL, TRAM, TROLLEY, TRAIN) JULY 27, 10 A.M. Meet at the Portland Zoo Max Station. Gather at the 4T kiosk west (I think) entrance to Max. We will start our hike from the kiosk at the Zoo and will follow the 4T signs onto the forested trail. This trail is about 4.1 mi. long and has about an 800 ft. elevation gain. Dress for the weather and wear good shoes—there could be some mud. With luck and good weather we could have some great views from the top of Council Crest.

JULY 2017 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK B1.5 July 1 (Sat.) Tom-Dick Mountain via Mirror Lake Angelika Schaefer 503-597-9649 or auschaefer219@yahoo.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Start the holiday weekend with a silent, meditative hike. That's right, QUIET! Connect with your breath and surroundings on the way up, socialize on the way down. Stop to reflect and take photos at Mirror Lake. Lunch/break on the ridgeline with great views of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens and other peaks. Early start to beat the parking crowds. 7.2 mi., 1,715 ft., Drive 94, TH, Gateway 7 a.m. (MH,WO) HK C2 July 2 (Sun.) Green Point Mountain—Casey Creek Loop (W) Dyanne Foster 503-267-8937.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Let's hike a wonderful loop that incorporates lovely waterfalls and the back of Nick Eaton trail, clambering over talus slopes feeling very close to a slide from many years ago.

Descending via the very moderate Gorton Creek. 19.6 mi., 4,700 ft., Drive 80, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF,GH,WO) HK A1.5 July 3 (Mon.) High Bridge Jim Selby 828-508-5094. A classic in and out hike with stunning views of the Eagle Creek gorge the entire way along with stunning waterfalls.

Includes side-trip to Punch Bowl Falls. One of the leader's favorite hikes. 6.5 mi., 700 ft., Drive 71, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH)MU HK B2 July 5 (Wed.) Tom-Dick Mountain (W) Ellen Burns 503703-8907. Beautiful hike with a lake and nice views in the wilderness!

Wilderness—Limited 12. First we hike to a lovely alpine lake in the Mt. Hood area, then we will continue on to a view summit in a wilderness area. Can be quite serene on a weekday. If the weather is clear we will see Mt. Hood reflected in Mirror Lake. Lunch on the trail. 7.2 mi., 1,715 ft., Drive 94, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(MH,WO)MU HK C2 July 5 (Wed.) Rock of Ages Loop (W) Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Classic straight up the ridge hike, then back down along Oneonta Gorge. Lots of

36 MAZAMAS

great views, waterfalls and woodsy solitude. 10.6 mi., 3,500 ft., Drive 60, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH,WO) HK B2 July 06 (Thu.) Burnt Lake to East Zigzag Lesley Langan 503-704-8658 leslely@yahoo.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. The wellgraded trail to Burnt Lake passes a waterfall and wildflowers. We will continue hiking an additional 1.4 miles to East Zigzag summit where the view opens south past Ski Bowl ski runs to Mt. Jefferson. 9.6 mi., 2,370 ft., Drive 96, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(MH) HK A2 July 7 (Fri.) Ramona Falls loop (W) Alice Brocoum alicevivianb@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Lacey falls over columnar basalt, cool hike to dip in as you go up Sandy River.

Return along rocky Ramona Creek.

7.3 mi., 810 ft., Drive 92, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,MH,WO) HK A1 July 08 (Sat.) Zig Zag Overlook Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Follow the Timberline Trail from Timberline Lodge to this scenic overlook, then return. No sign-up list, just show up.

4.4 mi., 600 ft., Drive 130, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK C2.5 July 08 (Sat.) Silver Star Mountain via Bluff Mountain Trail Joe Kellett fekjpk24@gmail. com. Silver Star Mountain is one of the best 360-degree summits within a day's drive of Portland, boasting a rocky, exposed viewpoint of five major cascade volcanoes. It is also a great wildflower area. Further, there are unique and sometimes fanciful rock outcrops along the way.

Be ready to walk fast. This is long relatively flat hike and we plan on hiking it a faster pace. NW Forest Pass required at the trailhead. 12.4 mi., 1,660 ft., Drive 80, TH, 99th Street Transit Center (Vancouver) 7:30 a.m. (AR)MU HK B2 July 09 (Sun.) Timothy Lake Loop Ellen Burns 503-7038907. Lovely lake loop hike near Mt. Hood This hike is a great way to increase your distance without much elevation. The lake loop is interesting and the duff trail and forested areas are soothing and easy on the joints. On our entry

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

EASTSIDE STREET RAMBLES Wednesdays throughout the spring and summer. Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 m.p.h.) through the streets and up to Mt. Tabor Park. 2 hours (please arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, MMC, 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events. to the trailhead we will pass by Little Crater Lake for a look/see. Be prepared for a long day, bring plenty of water and snacks, lunch on the trail. 11.2 mi., 400 ft., Drive 148, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (MH)MU HK C2 Jul 09 (Sun.) Elk-Kings Traverse Bruce Giordano brucegiord@yahoo.com.

Challenging hike with some exposure, particularly coming down Elk Mountain. Trekking poles recommended. Nice views and there should be some lovely wildflower displays on both summits and on the traverse. Note that while I list this as a C2 hike, I will certainly be slowing it down on the ascent of Elk Mountain which gains about 2,100 feet in a mile and a half. If there is agreement, I may do this as car shuttle to cut out the three mile flat section between Elk and Kings. 11 mi., 4,600 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) HK A1 July 10 (Mon.) Tualatin National Wildlife Refuge Bill Middleton 503-816-0549. Nice hike around one of the few urban refuges.

Meet at the refuge parking lot. 5 mi., 100 ft., Drive 7, Meet at refuge 8 a.m.

HK B2 July 12 (Wed.) Bull of the Woods (W) Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. From this lookout site Mt. Jefferson is up close and personal. The lookout building is aging but still here. This a long, slow drive, therefore expect a long day. 7.1 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 142, MMC 8 a.m. (AR,MH,WO)

HK B2 July 12 (Wed.) Palmateer Point (W) Ellen Burns 503-7038907. Two alpine lakes and a great viewpoint Wilderness—Limited 12.

This is a beautiful hike to two alpine lakes and then on to a viewpoint.

This Mt. Hood Area forested trail is iconic! Lunch on the trail, be prepared for a long day. 9.1 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 90, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(MH,WO)MU HK C2 July 14 (Fri.) Table Mountain from the North Gary Riggs gary.riggs@outlook.com.

Exploratory. Table Mountain the scenic way along the Pacific Crest Trail. The trail follows the ridge and opens up, so you'll get views of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and maybe Mt. Jefferson on a clear day. Also there should be plenty of wildflowers. A bit of a steep bushwhack in the final mile. 14 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive 80, MMC 8 a.m.

(AR,WO) HK B1.5 July 15 (Sat.) Indian Mountain Hike Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503665-6778. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Let's plan on a full day exploring the seldom-visited northwest side of Mt. Hood. Sign the summit register and read narratives of those who have come and gone before us. Or, simply, enjoy the stunning and sweeping views from the rocky summit. Insect repellent might be a good idea. NW Forest Pass. No dogs. 9.4 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 160, TH, Lewis & Clark near toilets 7:30 a.m. (MH,WO) HK A1.5 July 17 (Mon.) Lava Canyon Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

Unique hike through a canyon carved by the Mt. St. Helens' eruption. 5 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 170, TH, MMC 8:30 a.m. MU

HK B2 July 19 (Wed.) Big Huckleberry Mountain (W) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. PCT Wilderness Hike Wilderness— Limited 12. Between Mt. Adams and Indian Heaven, this part of the PCT includes some interesting rock garden formations and a good view for lunch. A great example of the PCT. Lunch on the trail. 10.8 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 138, TH, Fisher 8 a.m.

(WO)MU HK C2.5 July 19 (Wed.) Blue LakeTH/LoowitTR/Butte CampTR Loop Hike William OBrien 503679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo. com. We will start at the Blue Lake trailhead on Mt. St. Helens then proceed up past Sheep Canyon to the Toutle River Canyon then up to the Loowit trail, hiking a nice stretch of the Loowit. Then down the Butte Camp trail back to the Blue Lake trailhead. Should be fun! Great views of the west side of Mt. St. Helens, the wildflowers should be out and plan on a long day! 13.5 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 110, Salmon Creek Park & Ride 8 a.m. (AR)MU HK A1.5 July 21 (Fri.) Sleeping Beauty Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

Wildflowers and fantastic views of Mt. Adams 3.3 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 240, Lewis and Clark State Park Exit 18 Troutdale 9 a.m. MU HK C2 July 21 (Fri.) Boulder Ridge to Huckleberry Mountain Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Cross the Salmon River on a 300 foot arcing bridge. Many switchbacks with views of Mt. Hood, Hunchback Mountain, Wildcat Mountain and McIntyre Ridge along the way.

Panoramic summit views of Adams, Rainier, St. Helens, and Jefferson. 10.5 mi., 3,100 ft., Drive 79, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1 July 22 (Sat.) Bald Mountain Overlook Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Exploratory hike beginning at Lolo Pass and following the Pacific Crest Trail south to viewpoint of Mt. Hood overlooking Muddy Fork Canyon.

Wildflowers. No sign-up, just show up. 6.6 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 100, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK B2 July 22 (Sat.) Larch Mountain Crater Jim Selby 828508-5094. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Later start gives us a better chance to have a spectacular view of up to 7 glaciated peaks from Sherrard Point near the end of our hike. We hike leisurely through the basin of an extinct volcano that is now lush with vegetation, then up the east side of Larch Mountain and on to Sherrard Point. Return to our cars by 3:30 p.m.

7.3 mi., 1,510 ft., Drive 60, Gateway 9:30 a.m. (AR,GH)MU

HK C2 July 22 (Sat.) Devil's Peak Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Great workout with strong elevation gain to a decommissioned forest service lookout. Views are outstanding at the summit. Guaranteed you'll be back by mid-afternoon. 8.2 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 84, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH) HK B1.5 July 23 (Sun.) Ape Canyon to Loowit Trail Junction (Mt. St. Helens) Angelika Schaefer 503-5979649 or auschaefer219@yahoo.com.

We hike along lava flows and among the last of the old growth forest on Mt. St. Helens. There will be views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood as we lunch under the summit at the junction of the Loowit Trail.

Sasquatch has not been sighted here since 1924, but let’s look! 11 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 142, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK A1.5 July 24 (Mon.) Wildcat Mountain Flora Huber 503658-5710. Wilderness—Limited 12. Forested hike in the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness to the top of Wildcat Mountain. 6.4 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 60, Sandy Safeway Parking Lot

by ATM 9 a.m. MU HK B2 July 24 (Mon.) Cape Horn Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Good views of the Columbia River Gorge With the lower trail opening after July 15 this is a good hike for views and as the hiking is on cliff areas above the Columbia River. Lunch on the trail. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, Fisher 8 a.m. MU

TT July 27, 28, and/or 29 (Thu.) Mazama Trail Tender Richard Pope 503-860-8789. Wilderness—Limited 12. Volunteer for 1, 2, or all 3 days!

Each year the Mazamas repair and maintain the Mazama trail on Mt. Hood, opening it up for the season.

This year we are expecting a lot of damage from harsh winter storms and heavy snowpack. Tasks will include cutting logs, trimming brush, and scraping out drain dips.

No experience necessary, distance and elevation listed is the maximum, some days will be much shorter. 8 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 100, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2 July 28 (Fri.) Silver Star Mountain (via Ed's Trail) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Wild flower meadows and a great views on this hike. With the snow pack this year I am making my best guess on the flower peak at Silver Star Mountain.

This is a challenging hike with a narrow trail, steep drop offs/cliffs in some areas, and a rock scramble.

The payoff is big if we hit the flower peak. Great views on a clear day.

Lunch on the trail, longer day due to careful trail walking in some areas.

8.7 mi., 2,100 ft., Drive 70, TH, Fisher 8 a.m. (AR)MU

HK C2 July 26 (Wed.) Larch Mountain Lollypop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. We will hike up to Sherrard Point on the Multnomah Creek trail, loop around the crater and return via the Franklin Ridge trail. Lots of waterfalls, ancient shield volcano formations and forests along the way. 16 mi., 4,100 ft., Drive 60, MMC 8 a.m.

HK C2 July 26 (Wed.) Whetstone Mountain Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Experience beautiful Bull of the Woods Wilderness with a hike that includes 25 switchbacks to the summit.

Close up view of Mt. Jefferson and panoramic views from Mt. Rainier to the Sisters to Mary's Peak on the coast. 11 mi., 3,500 ft., Drive 190,MMC 7:30 a.m.

Check out this impressive 10 ft. 6 in.

Douglas Fir member Darryl Loyd found on a recent hike!

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

JULY 2017 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) Upcoming Board Meetings: Tuesday, July 11* (please note date change), and Aug. 18. All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a public comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Board for publication.

by Mattie Courtright Vice-President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 3 p.m. on Monday, June 19, 2017. No members chose to speak during the first member comment period, and the agenda was approved. Secretary John Rettig reported on current membership, and Treasurer Jon Jurevic reported on the April 30th financials for the Mazamas.

In the Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis recapped the upcoming events in June, and submitted a request on behalf of President Hooker that the next EC meeting date be changed to accommodate several council members’ schedule conflicts. After discussion, the date will be changed to July 11. Lee would like the fall EC retreat to be scheduled for October 20–22, and asked the council to consider shortening the time due to staffing during that busy time of year.

Lee will be out of the office on vacation in July and is leading a Mazama Outing in Chamonix, France. Lee reported that the water issue in the basement has been discovered and staff is soliciting bids to fix the issue. The Mazama Lodge upgrades and repairs have been pushed back to the fall of 2018 due to the higher than anticipated bids for the work. Lee noted that the Outdoor Recreation Day bill passed, and he remains hopeful that the Oregon Recreation Leadership bill will be passed by the end of the session. The Fiscal Sponsorship of the Oregon Recreation and Conservation Fund is going well.

Lis Cooper from the Nominating Committee reported that they reached out to 30 candidates and successfully found 5 prospects to run for Executive Council—Matt Blecharz, Keith Campbell, Preston Corless, Tracy Manning, and Sandra Volk—and 3 candidates to run for Nominating Committee—Martin Hanson, Brad Noren, and John Rettig. Keith Campbell, of the Nominating Committee, recused himself from the vote that nominated him

38 MAZAMAS

for Executive Council. The committee subsequently voted that no sitting Nominating Committee member will be nominated as an EC Candidate for the upcoming election year. The EC discussed, and Lis supported the need for a more formal process for the EC to communicate the upcoming work of the EC and the skills needed to the Nominating Committee for their search, as there was in previous years. Lis also encouraged the EC to attend committee meetings to inform volunteers about the EC and encourage them to step into leadership roles. The EC thanked the Nominating Committee for their hard work producing the candidates.

Justin Rotherham, Education & Activities Program Manager, reported on his current activities helping with the American Lung Association (ALA) Climb for Clean Air, the UIAA standards committee for the United States, and Mazama Education Programs.

The ALA Mt. Hood Climb on June 8 and 9 was successful, and the Mazamas will be evaluating continuing this program with the ALA in future years. Justin traveled to Seattle for a meeting with the Mountaineers, Colorado Mountain Club, and the American Alpine Club to discuss the new Mountain Qualification Labels for the United States. Justin was pleased to announce that the Basic Climbing Education Program will be returning to OHSU next year.

Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications, delivered the communication plan for the Volunteer Agreement and discussed the possibility of creating an online volunteer orientation in addition to a standard orientation. Our goals are that all Mazama volunteers for the 2017–18 program year will sign the Volunteer Agreement prior to beginning their volunteer role, that at least 100 volunteers will attend a volunteer orientation, and that we will have a staff volunteer manager starting in the winter of 2018.

John Rettig presented small changes to the research granting proposal process.

The policy changes passed unanimously.

The council then discussed changes to the disciplinary policy, and the policy changes passed unanimously, and are effective immediately.

Lee presented the first draft of the next 3-year strategic plan. He would like feedback on the document sent to Sarah and Chris so that the council can approve a final plan at the August meeting. The council discussed the need to ensure the goals are prioritized and Lee mentioned that this plan is organized by priority and each goal will be closely tied to our staffing structure. The board discussed the need for a clear narrative about this plan to the membership.

Lee reported that we’ve hired a search firm to help recruit candidates for a Mazama Development Director, and we are applying for a grant to help with funding the position for the first 1–2 years. Vice President Kruell and Lee Davis met with the Mazamas Foundation, reviewed the draft strategic plan with them and requested their support to fund these strategies as we have done in the past.

Laura Pigion presented a decisionmaking matrix and priorities for the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock. The project manager, Teresa Bright, will focus on the Conditional Use Permit and the business plan over the next month. She will bring the revised business plan to the council to discuss at the September meeting. The council discussed what is needed in refining the business plans, who will be making the decisions during the process, and a plan to discuss this further with the Mazamas Foundation.

No members chose to speak at the second member comment period. Vice-President Chris Kruell adjourned the meeting into executive session. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, July 11 at 3 p.m.

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