2017 December Mazama Magazine

December 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 12

Bulletin

Celebrating Mazama Volunteers A Hunchback, a Devil, and Some Gnomes Accident on North Sister Saying Goodbye: Fred Beckey & Jim Craig

4.8oz. φ 3.9 x 5.5 in

FEATURES Mazamas & Betties 360: Working Together to Empower Girls Through Outdoor Adventure, p. 8 Portland Alpine Fest Recap, p. 11 PAF Photo of the Year, p. 12 Fred Beckey: A Life of Adventure, p. 15 A Hunchback, A Devil, and Some Gnomes, p. 18 International Experience Comes to Oregon, p. 20 Anatomy of a Climbing Accident, p. 23 A Summary of the Incident on North Sister, p. 26 New Mazama Website, p. 29 Mazama Volunteers: Thank You!, p. 34 Volunteer Agreement, p. 40 Madrone Wall Park Open, p. 41

MONTHLY CONTENT Executive Director’s Report, p. 4 Events & Activities, p. 5 Volunteer, p. 7 Membership Report, p. 22 Evening Programs, p. 30 Outings, p. 31

AYM, p. 32 Mazama Lodge, p. 33 Successful Climbers, p. 41 Trail Trips, p. 42 Executive Council, p. 44 Classics, p. 45 Obituaries: Jim Craig, p. 46

ADVERTISER INDEX

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon– Mon. Noon LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator, laura@mazamas.org

CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager claire@mazamas.org

SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@mazamas.org

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator renee@mazamas.org

JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justin@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager, mathew@mazamas.org

MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator molly@mazamas.org

KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator, kelsey@mazamas.org

Bend Marathon, p. 22 Centered in Motion, p. 42 Climb for Clean Air, p. 48 Embark, p. 25 Green Trails, p. 39 Montbell, p. 2 Mountaineers Books, p. 5

Mountain Hardwear, p. 48 The Mountain Shop, p. 47 Next Adventure, p. 7 OMC, p. 42 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 22 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazamabulletin@mazamas.org) Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: Portland Alpine Fest Photo of the Year Audience Choice Award Winner! Illumination Saddle. Photo: Benjamin Krause.

Above: Mazamas Rebecca Kramer, Larry Beck, and Jacob Raab are on the hunty to find the luckiest raffle ticket at The Mixtress during PAF. Photo: Nicole Wasko.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the

14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

DECEMBER 2017 3

Volunteers: We Thank You Dear Members, friends, and all of our wonderful volunteers,

I

want to thank you for your help in making 2017 a very successful year for the Mazamas. Hundreds of you reading this contributed to this success by volunteering your time and skills in climbs, hikes, classes, and other Mazama programs throughout the year. Others gave their time to help maintain our facilities, serve on the board of directors or administrative committees, and help out in the office answering calls and questions for new and longtime members.

And even more of you gave your time to help us advocate for our priorities and values in Salem or Olympia, to help guide and teach youth through outreach programs, and to help with cleaning and maintaining our trails and crags.

And even just last week many of you donated hundreds of hours to make the Portland Alpine Festival our best and largest outreach event ever, reaching over 500 nonmembers and inspiring them to engage with the Mazamas and learn more about the mountains.

At the Mazamas we believe that volunteering is both a service to our community and also a service to ourselves. We give our time, and in return we receive lasting memories, and the knowledge that we helped someone else in our community fulfill their potential and have an experience they wouldn’t or couldn’t have had without us.

Each time we volunteer, we share with others the inherent value and importance of simply playing outside. While at the same time we are reminded of how the outdoors makes us physically and mentally stronger, engages us in lifelong learning, strengthens our community, and builds the values of stewardship and conservation.

Volunteering at the Mazamas really does make you stronger! Nearly all of our longtime volunteers can talk with pride about how volunteering with Mazama programs helped them or someone they know get stronger and healthier, and find the motivation to set and achieve their goals. And many of us have been inspired to stay active throughout our lives by seeing a longtime mountaineer twenty or thirty years our senior speed ahead on

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the trail, laughing and telling jokes while we gasp for air.

When we take our time to volunteer we are also building bridges and strengthening our community at large.

So many of you have told me how proud you are that our programs bridge social and cultural divides and help us learn how to work together towards a common goal. Differences of all types, including religious, political, cultural, and ideological fall away when your out in the mountains. Whether we’re out climbing, hiking, or skiing with a team, we find quickly that it just doesn’t matter what you do for work, or where you grew up.

We’re all out there together, sharing the same experiences, learning together, and appreciating the great outdoors.

We also know that volunteering teaches us kindness and patience. Year after year, we take children, and adults young and old out on their first real experience in the mountains. Without judgment for what our students that day knew or didn’t know when they arrived, we teach them the skills they need, we learn from each other as equals, and we learn to care for each other as people.

And here in Oregon, when we volunteer outdoors, we are sharing our pride and our love of this incredible place we call home. Like ambassadors, we help new people every year safely experience and build a bond of care for the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.

And at our best, we inspire some of those same people to join us and become volunteers and advocates themselves.

Thank you all again for volunteering your time to help the Mazamas, to help your community, and to share the spirit

Each time we volunteer, we share with others the inherent value and importance of simply playing outside.

And at the same time we are reminded of how the outdoors makes us physically and mentally stronger, engages us in lifelong learning, strengthens our community, and builds the values of stewardship and conservation. and values that make the Mazamas strong. I hope you each take some time to be outside this month, to appreciate Oregon and the wonderful community and quality of life we enjoy here.

Happy holidays,

Lee Davis Executive Director

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES OPEN CLIMB Practice Skills at the MMC Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied; all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall.

MOUNTAINEERING The Freedom of t he Hills 9TH EDITION “The definitive guide to mountains and climbing.”

— Conrad Anker

▶▶ Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique. ▶▶ Dates: Dec. 17, Jan. 21, Feb. 11 ▶▶ Hours: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $10 (cash only) Funds to go to maintain the walls.

“Everyone should have a copy of this standard tome.”

— Kit DesLauriers

REEL ROCK 12

The Mountaineers

Dec. 13 & 14 at Revolution Hall

624 pages, 500 illustrations, 7.25” x 9” (hardcover, paperback and ebook editions)

This November, get ready for climbing’s greatest stories, stars, and sends. REEL ROCK 12 premieres four new short films that will deliver heart-thumping action, big laughs, and pure inspiration.

Tickets: tinyurl.com/PDX-REELRockDec13 & tinyurl.com/PDXREELRockDec14

BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST Feb 2, 3 at the Kiggins Theatre April 13, 14, 15 at Revolution Hall April 20, 21, 22 at Cinema 21 There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. TICKETS GO FAST! ▶▶ Kiggins tickets: brownpapertickets.com/event/3070610 ▶▶ Cinema 21: Tickets go on sale Jan. 10 ▶▶ Revolution Hall: Tickets go on sale Jan. 10

NEW

THE CLIMBERS Stunning portraits of mountaineering’s greatest icons.

Jim Herrington, photographer Essay by Greg Child; Foreword by Alex Honnold

192 pages, hardcover with slipcase, 60 large-format black and white photos, 11” x 12”

ADVANCED ROCK Applications Due Dec. 30 Applications are now being accepted for the Mazama Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR), which takes place March–May 2018. For more information about the course and to apply, visit mazamas.org/education-classes/advanced-rock/.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP) INFO NIGHT Feb. 1, 6:30–8:30 p.m. at the MMC BCEP teaches you everything you need to know to get started in the world of mountaineering and Info Night will give you the details you need to know if the program is a good fit for you.

M O U N TA I N E E R S B OOK S AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD AND ONLINE AT MOUNTAINEERSBOOKS.ORG. MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS IS AN INDEPENDENT NONPROFIT PUBLISHER. DECEMBER 2017 5

ADVANCED ROCK The application period for the 2018 Mazama Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR) will be available December 1–31 on the Mazama website at mazamas. org/education-classes/advanced-rock/. Please read the application requirements carefully. In addition to the application form, you need to submit a letter of recommendation from someone who knows your climbing ability and technical skills.

Email AR@mazamas.org if you have any questions.

December 13 & 14 at Revolution Hall

Tickets:

tinyurl.com/PDX-REELRockDec13 & tinyurl.com/PDX-REELRockDec14

Christopher Hicks “rescuing” Joe Petsche in the 2017 Advanced Rock High-Angle Rescue class. Photo: George Cummings

EXPEDITION GRANTS

WHY NOT APPLY FOR A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT?

If you’re planning an expedition/climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee could help make it happen with a grant, loaner gear, or training.

Also, applications will be accepted for climbing trips not necessarily considered an expedition. The intent is to create an opportunity for Mazamas to gain experience and develop the skills leading to bigger trips in the future.

Go to the Mazamas website and select Resources/ Grants/Expedition Grants to submit your application

by Dec. 31, 2017. For information and/or questions, email the expedition committee at expedition@ mazamas.org.

APPLICATION DEADLINE DEC. 31, 2017 6 MAZAMAS

NEW BOOKS

The Mazama Library has a wide array of titles that cover all aspects of mountaineering, hiking, and climbing. Remember, it’s yours to use!

1001 Climbing Tips, by Andy Kirkpatrick. Bold, funny, and useful manual of climbing tips based on the author’s three decades of climbing obsession Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition. New edition— fully updated techniques and all-new illustrations Fall of Heaven, Whymper’s Tragic Matterhorn Climb, by Reinhold Messner. A classic event in mountaineering history, dramatically retold by a classic mountaineer The Climbers, by photographer Jim Herrington, foreword by Alex Honnold. Portraits that reveal the core of their remarkable subjects and a visual history of special significance to climbers of all ages.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES NEW WEBSITE: DATA ENTRY HELP We will be launching the new Mazama website in February 2018.

We could use some data entry helpers to get us to our launching point. This volunteer role entails reviewing, editing, and adding information to our new Salesforce database, as well as managing data in Excel and Google Sheets. Interested? Email sarah@ mazamas.org

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS We are looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e., Wilderness First Responder or equivalent.

Instructors will work with the First Aid Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum. Email firstaid@mazamas.org if you are interested.

JOIN OUR TEAM! EDUCATION PROGRAM COORDINATOR Are you passionate about outdoor recreation education? Do you enjoy working with talented and dedicated volunteer leaders?

The Mazamas is looking for an outdoor educator to join our team as the Education Program Coordinator. The Education Program Coordinator will work with Mazama staff and volunteer leaders to ensure the continued success of our traditional education programs as well as identify and create opportunities to expand education programs in the future. The successful candidate will have an energetic, outgoing personality with previous program management experience and a passion for mountain pursuits.

The full job description is available at mazamas.org; the position will remain open until filled.

This position is instrumental to achieving the goals outlined in Mazamas2020, our 2018–2020 strategic plan. You will find a feature article on Mazamas2020 in the January Bulletin.

BACKGROUND At the September 2017 Mazama Executive Board meeting our next 3-year strategic plan, Mazamas2020, was approved. This plan was developed over a period of 9 months that involved listening sessions with Mazama volunteers and thought leaders, an extensive membership survey, and a community survey. The priority initiative within Mazamas2020 is Education, specifically to modernize and expand the Mazamas outdoor education programs to be scalable and relevant to our broader community, always inspired by mountaineering and rooted in our values. The first strategy in this initiative is to stabilize and maintain the capacity of traditional education programs while enhancing program quality and safety.

DECEMBER 2017 7

Mazamas and Betties 360 Working Together to Empower Girls Through Outdoor Adventure

by Jonathan Barrett.

T

his winter, the partnership between the Mazamas and Betties360 will take another step towards more regular and complete collaboration. Seven years ago a loose association was established when the Betties used the Mazama Lodge on Mt. Hood for the first time. In May of 2014 that relationship became more regular when Betties girls went climbing with Mazama volunteers for the first time at the MMC. Since that time, the Mazamas has continued to partner with Betties360, a girls empowerment organization in Portland, Oregon. Hannah Nolan, the Program Coordinator and After-School Instructor for Betties360, observed that this partnership is a natural fit. She described her organization the following way: “Girl empowerment through outside adventure.” Over the last three years program directors from both organizations have come to see that the missions have a natural nexus.

Currently thirty girls from St. Andrews Nativity, Open North School, and Jason Lee Elementary have the opportunity to experience a single rock climbing session on the walls of the Mazama Mountaineering Center under the mentorship and instruction of five or six female Mazama volunteers. This program includes both a primer on safety as well as approximately forty-five minutes of climbing on the wall. The cost for participants is only ten dollars per girl because the Mazamas provide the gear and instruction for free.

The girls of Betties360 could be roughly described by statistics regarding their age (11-13 years old), ethnicity (80% nonwhite), and economic status (the majority are low-income and qualify for free and reduced lunch). However this overlooks the fact that the group is incredibly mixed and multifaceted. The one defining attribute of all the participants is that they are willing to strive to be confident and courageous, and it is the mission of Betties360 to foster these two qualities.

With thirty girls a year in the program, it

8 MAZAMAS

is astonishing to realize that the Mazamas has had a hand in supporting the growth of potentially hundreds of girls during the course of this relationship, although official numbers have not been recorded.

The collaboration will be restructured this winter as the Mazamas will become one of the core programs for Betties, and this will lead to more climbing opportunities for the girls involved.

Instead of just one session a year, there will be three. The result will be more opportunities for learning basic climbing safety, gaining belay technique, and having more opportunities to climb.

This reorganization of the programming for the Betties will be more in line with their academic trimester schedule with climbing being the content area for the winter session.

Over the years, Betties360 has partnered with a variety of organizations including the Lumberyard, the Audubon Society of Portland, Rose City Rollers, Skate Like a Girl, Portland Lady Pigs, the Street Trust, and the Columbia Watershed Council. Of all the experiences that the

girls have had, time and time again the girls have remarked that their experiences with the Mazamas have been among the best and most formative. Nolan said that there were a variety of reasons for this.

She noted that the, “Mazamas has always offered us the most women to role model for the girls.” She also stated that there is always, “really high quality climbing education experiences for our girls.”

Betties360 experiences are built around four themes: leadership, teamwork, trust, and risk-taking. All of these are fostered by their Mazama experience. Obviously at its core, climbing is risk-taking.

Therefore the girls are allowed to take on risk in an environment where safety is balanced with appropriate challenges.

The perils are larger than simply the dangers inherent in climbing though.

Many are rooted in issues of body image and self-confidence. They learn to accept the possibility of failure and to support each other during the process of selfexploration. Leora Gregory, one of the Mazama volunteers, said, “I was happy when I could see improvement in just

Of all the experiences that the girls have had, time and time again the girls have remarked that their experiences with the Mazamas have been among the best and most formative ... “Mazamas has always offered us the most women to role model for the girls.” She also stated that there is always, “really high quality climbing education experiences for our girls.”

Photos: Sam McCarty

a one hour wall climbing session—giving the girls some ‘tools’ to help them advance.

For example, teaching one to stop and take a deep breath. Showing them what they’d accomplished, and if it was more than they’d done the first time, making sure that they understood that, so that they could feel pride in their accomplishment, even if they didn’t climb the whole wall.” In terms of teamwork and leadership, the girls learn to be highly supportive of each other, knowing that collectively they can foster in their fellow Bettie the belief she can do hard things. Rebecca Olsen, another volunteer, observed that climbing is as much, “a team sport as it is an individual sport. It’s about problem solving, trust, and communication.”

The first one up the wall shows her group that it is indeed possible to cling to the tiny holds with just her fingers and toes. Lastly there is the element of trust. The girls must learn to trust themselves as well as their Mazama mentors who they may have just met.

The Mazama women who have volunteered to work with Betties360 are consistently impressed by the rapid growth that they see. Nolan said that, “the girls are so infectiously joyful,” and that this is one of the reasons why the volunteers love the experience. It is a rare thing that adults are so directly able to participate in the growth of adolescents. The women who support this Mazamas/Betties360 partnership are a special group. Beyond being competent climbers, they have the key skill of cultural sensitivity. They are able to empathize with the girls and meet them where they are at.

The future for this relationship is very bright, and Nolan would like to see

the partnership continue to evolve in several key ways. One would be to finally formalize the relationship between the Mazamas and Betties360. Cementing the collaboration would benefit both organizations. Clearly it is in the benefit of Betties360 to have a steady partner in the Mazamas. The advantages flow both ways though. Education is a key component of the organization’s mission, and the ability to reach more segments of the population is valuable. It allows more women to be introduced to climbing. Ideally the Mazamas will be able to support the growth of additional groups of girls from more schools. As well, Nolan would love to see in the future an outdoor trip. This was a feature of the program in the past, but due to issues with cost and capacity it was not retained. Nolan describes climbing as, “solving a puzzle while working out,” which is a perspective that most Mazamas understand. As this valuable collaboration between the Mazamas and Betties360 moves forward, it is certain that the two will find ways to solve this puzzle together so that each organization is stronger and better off in the end.

There are still problems that need to be solved. As the model changes from one to three sessions, getting repeat volunteers is going to be critical because trust is foundational to the experience. As well, there is the question of how to support these girls in the future if they decide that climbing is something that they want to add to their lives. How can the organization help to connect girls to the climbing community and to make the sport welcoming and accessible? Nolan notes that beyond the

costs of equipment and transportation, there is also the need to find ways to help them feel welcome at the gyms and the crags.

As members of the organization, there are a few ways that you can be supportive of this venture. Unfortunately not everyone is wellsuited to act in the role of mentor. Those that are chosen were selected because they exhibited the key qualities of compassion, empathy, and sensitivity to the needs and situations of the girls who are participating.

There is even less that men can do because Betties360 only uses female volunteers.

However, communicating to the leadership of the organization is one way that you can support this partnership.

As the Mazamas rethinks what it means to be a leader in climbing education in the Northwest, it is continuing to consider how the organization connects to potential members and who the organization tries to bring into the ever-expanding landscape that is the climbing community.

The collaboration with Betties360 could become one more way the Mazamas fulfills its mission to be a leader in climbing and climbing education. Claire Nelson, the Mazamas Youth and Outreach Program Manager, states that, “We are so excited to grow our partnership with Betties360.

The vision of the Mazamas is everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.

Organizations like Betties360 help us work towards that mission through our climbing classes by bringing young and adult women together through climbing. Our volunteers are inspired every time by the tenacity and enthusiasm the Betties have for the challenges of climbing.”

DECEMBER 2017 9

Left side , from top: Jess Roskelley, John Long, Chelsea Rude, and Katie Bono in the green room at Revolution Hall prior to The Summit. Photo: Sarah Bradham.

Crack Climbing clinic at Planet Granite. Photo: Nicole Wasko. Chris Wright teaching multi-pitch skills at Planet Granite. Photo: Andrew Knight.

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Right side, from top: Rebecca Madore in action on the finals route at the Portland Ice Comp.

Crowd photo at The Mixtress at Patagonia Portland. Portland Ice Comp winners (from left)–Rebecca Madore (2nd place woman), Johnathan Barrett (1st place man), Marsha Hamilton (1st place woman), Vince Gonor (2nd place man), Scott Wasko (3rd place man).

Women’s Intro to Ice Clinic with Dawn Glanc at the MMC. Photos: Nicole Wasko.

5 years of community PAF 2017 recap

by Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications The Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) 2017 is in the books and what a year it was!

For our 5th year we endeavored to create our biggest and best festival yet with more opportunities throughout the week for everyone who loves to play in the mountains.

PAF17 included a weeknight speaker series, clinics and seminars, the Portland Ice Comp, and The Summit.

This year we saw record numbers as we repeatedly had sell out crowds at each event. Our weeknight events included gear-filled raffles that offered great opportunities for our participants to pick up awesome gear as well as help raise funds for causes that are important to our participants, including the Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC), Outdoor Alliance, Friends of Hyalite Canyon, and the Mazamas Trail Stewardship program.

This year we were also aiming to increase the diversity and inclusivity of PAF. We actively sought out women to be involved in the festival, and partnered with REI on our Adventure & Inspiration movie night that featured films with a broad cross-section of adventurers. We also offered a mix of free and paid events in order to encourage individuals with varying financial means to be able to participate.

The Portland Ice Comp saw the move to a new venue at Planet Granite Portland in the Pearl District. The size of Planet Granite allowed for a much larger crowd as well as excellent viewing for spectators from many different vantage points.

Year after year we hear from our PAFletes how our PAF crowd is one of the most enthusiastic, excited, and knowledgeable festival crowds, and this year was no exception. Many of our athletes love to return to PAF because

of all of YOU who make it such a great festival. Our PAF17 athlete roster was filled with both new and familiar faces, and included Katie Bono, Marcus Garcia, Dawn Glanc, John Long, Aaron Mulkey, Jess Roskelley, Chris Wright, and Graham Zimmerman. For the first time in our 5-year history, some of our athletes came to the festival solely to teach clinics, which allowed us to increase our clinic offerings.

The majority of our sponsors also continue to support PAF each year because the festival provides so many interested and engaged outdoors people. This year we celebrated eight sponsors/partners who have been with PAF since the beginning: Grivel (presenting sponsor), the Mountain Shop (lead sponsor), Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, Montbell, The North Face, CiloGear, and Base Camp Brewing Company. A big thanks to these folks as well as all of our 2017 sponsors who make PAF possible for our mountain community.

We also want to thank our huge army of volunteers for showing up in force to make this week a success—many returned multiple times throughout the week to take on different roles. The time, talent, and enthusiasm our volunteers brought to their roles was a true stand out of the week and is something to be celebrated.

We look forward to going through all the feedback provided by our participants, volunteers, athletes, and partners so that we can continue to bring you one of the best mountain festivals. We can’t wait to see what PAF18 brings—we’ll see you there!

192

clinic participants seminar partcipants

83

492

attendees at The Summit

1,638

festival participants

19

clinics

5

seminars

8

evening events

14

athletes

8

venues

68

volunteers

140

volunteer positions

DECEMBER 2017 11

Grand Prize Winner Connor O’Brien “Trout Creek Climbing”

Action & Adventure Winner Vaqas Malik “Airy Ridge in the Bugaboos” 12 MAZAMAS

Scenic Outdoors Winner Jerad Armijo “Trees Aglow”

Outdoor School Winner Angela Bohlke: Ari Olson at French’s Dome

Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) and Friends of Outdoor School’s Photo of the Year (POTY) joined forces again this year to bring you one great photo contest! We had 370 entries, and our judges whittled those entries down to 24 semifinalists and then to 4 finalists. These 24 photos were installed at Base Camp Brewing Company for audience choice voting, along with being posted to Facebook. Thank you to Pro Photo Supply, Friends of Outdoor School, and Chinook Book for your support. And thanks to our judges Ben Grandy, Jeff Rueppel, and John Waller.

Congratulations to all of our winners!

Audience Choice Award Benjamin Krause “Illumination Saddle”

First Row: Sachi Murthy. Ralph Daub. Erika Fray.

Second Row: Megan Sadler. Dylan Taylor. Brooke Jackson.

Third Row: Andrew Holman. Benjamin Krause. Kevin Cowley.

Fourth Row: James Hult. Ray Phung. Megan Miller.

Fifth: Julian North. Kevin Machtelinckx. Benjamin Krause. Ben Dlin.

Sixth Row: Brit Laurenti. Kevin Cowley. Harry Apelbaum.

DECEMBER 2017 13

14 MAZAMAS

Fred Beckey

A Life of Adventure C

Jan. 14, 1923– Oct. 30, 2017

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager

limbing legend and Northwest icon Fred Beckey passed away of heart failure on October 30, 2017, at the age of 94 in Seattle, Washington. Wolfgang Gottfriend Beckey was born in Dusseldorf, Germany, in 1923. He, along with his parents and younger brother, emigrated to the United States in 1925. During a 1936 camping trip with his parents, he discovered his love of climbing after he climbed Boulder Peak in the Cascades. Chances are good that if a mountaineer has climbed anywhere in the Pacific Northwest, Alaska, Canadian Rockies, Wyoming, or the Coast Range of British Columbia chances are they have followed in Beckey’s footsteps.

Left: Fred Beckey during the 1970 Hozemeen reconnaissance trip.

Mazama Library and Historical Collections, VM2012.002 Dan Davis Collection

Lore has it that Beckey made well over a thousand ascents in his lifetime, many of them firsts.

However, it was the nature of Beckey’s climbing style—brash, ambitious and unrelenting in pursuit of his goal—that set him apart from his contemporaries and cemented his place in the pantheon of mountaineering legends.

He made his initial first ascent in 1939 at the age of 16 when he, along with Clint Kelly and Lloyd Anderson, climbed Mt. Despair in the North Cascades. Over the next couple of years, between the age of 17 and 19, Beckey ranged across the Pacific Northwest making at least 50 climbs, many of them first ascents. In an era before the establishment of Highway 20, Beckey was willing to go to great distances to get to the peaks he wanted to climb, often

taking off through the uncharted underbrush with a week or more worth of supplies on his back, trailing his climbing partners as he sought peak after peak to conquer. In 1942 Beckey made one of his most remarkable climbs when he and his younger brother Helmy successfully summited Mt. Waddington in British Columbia.

The mountain was first climbed in 1936, and their second ascent was a significant accomplishment for such young climbers. The 1940s saw Beckey expanding his climbing game with ascents in Alaska and Canada. In 1954 alone, he made the first ascents of Mt. Hunter and Deborah with legendary climbers Harrer and Meybohm, and pioneered a new route up the Northwest Buttress of the north peak of Mt. McKinley (Denali).

In 1955 Beckey joined an expedition to Nepal to climb Lhotse (27,939 ft), at the time the highest unclimbed peak in the world. Weather stymied Beckey and Swiss climber Bruno Spirig’s summit attempt, forcing them off the mountain. As often happens, the story of what happened next is conflicting, but Beckey was accused of abandoning a snowblind Spirig at 24,000 feet and descending alone. The whole experience scuttled his attempts to join the 1963 Everest expedition eight years later and turned him off from large-scale mountaineering expeditions.

The 1960s and 1970s saw Beckey expand his climbing range beyond the Northwest and push into the Sierra Nevada, the desert Southwest, and beyond.

continued on next page DECEMBER 2017 15

Fred Beckey near the summit of the Grand Teton after climbing the North Ridge with Dan Davis and Steve Marts, July 26, 1963. Mazama Library and Historical Collections, VM2012.002 Dan Davis Collection

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Fred Beckey, continued from previous page He continued to set routes, lay claim to first ascents, and leave his mark in summit registers and guidebooks across the nation and around the globe. As Beckey entered the latter decades of his life, his drive and need for new experiences and conquests could not keep pace with his aging body.

Beckey’s literary contribution are overlooked given his phenomenal climbing achievements. He wrote a dozen books on climbing beginning with the groundbreaking Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington. Published in 1949 by the American Alpine Club, it was the first comprehensive guide to Northwest peaks and the first of a series of seminal climbing guides to be penned by Beckey. A revised edition, as well as a supplement, followed in 1953, and again in 1960. These early hardback climbing guides are lodestones that grace the libraries of many Northwest climbers. In 1965 the Mountaineers published Beckey and Eric Bjornstad’s Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas. The Challenge of the North Cascades followed in 1969 and is often regarded as his best work.

The book chronicles his more than three decades of climbing, exploring, and first ascents in the North Cascades.

Four years later, Beckey published the first volume of the Cascade Alpine Guide, Columbia River to Stevens Pass. Volume Two, Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass followed in 1977, and Volume Three, Rainy Pass to Fraser River, in 1981. The series became known affectionately as the “Beckey Bible,” or simply, the “Beckey.” Now in its third edition, the books remain as invaluable as ever. Beckey’s common refrain in the guides “continue on easy rock to the summit” has frustrated and perplexed many a climber.

In 2003 Beckey finished his most expansive project to date, the 563-page Range of Glaciers. Published by the Oregon Historical Society Press, the book is a comprehensive accounting of the nineteenth-century exploration and survey of the Northern Cascade Range. Beckey traveled widely in researching the book, visiting archives and libraries across the United States and Canada (including a long stint in Portland at the Oregon Historical

Society). In 2011 Patagonia Books published Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs; a coffee table-sized magnum opus. The book, filled with hand-drawn topos, photographs, narrative description, and plenty of notes, chronicled Beckey’s detailed knowledge of the mountains and climb routes he knew and loved.

Beckey lived to climb mountains. He never married or had children, instead he lived a simple life in Seattle where he researched, planned, and wrote about his climbing expeditions. In a 1992 Outside magazine feature story on his career, Jon Krakauer wrote that Beckey “stripped his life to its chassis, ridding it of everything that might impede his campaign on the heights.” Beckey was tough to be around outside of the mountains. His relentless drive often put him at odds with climbing partners. Over the years Fred went through dozens of partners; those that stuck around were able to deal with his quirky personality and single-minded focus on climbing. There are also stories of Fred and his bag of quarters. Lore has it that he’d come into a town, find a phone booth, and start dialing numbers of either women he’d met or climbers who lived in the area. Early on he seemed to relish his vagabond lifestyle, living out of his car, scribbling notes on the backs of fast food restaurant napkins, and pilfering meals from grocery store sample trays. Later in life, as he slowed down, he came to rely more and more on others to transport him around, often calling out of the blue and cajoling the person on the other end of the phone into going on an adventure with him.

If Beckey had a climbing philosophy, it was to research and find peaks no one else knew about, or in some cases, had ever even heard of. Once he had a peak in his sights, he was unrelenting in his drive to reach and climb it. Despite this constant drive to conquer new mountains, Beckey was a thoughtful, careful climber, and was not afraid to “give it another day.” This is evidenced by the fact that he had very few accidents in the course of his nearly 80-year climbing career.

Known by many Mazamas, Beckey had a long history with the organization. As early as 1952, Beckey was giving talks about his climbs to the Mazamas. In April of 1952, he gave a presentation about his second ascent of Inspiration Peak in the Picket Range in the North Cascades. He returned in 1955 to show slides from his first ascent of Mt. McKinley. He was the speaker at the Mazama Annual Banquet in 1976. More recently in 2001, Fred was made an honorary member of the Mazamas. In 2006 Beckey was awarded a Mazama Expedition Grant to climb an unclimbed 19,000-foot peak in Asia. Beckey was honored at the 2016 Portland Alpine Festival for his contributions to mountaineering literature. A number of Mazamas were lucky to have known Beckey over the years and call him a friend.

Fred Beckey was one of a kind in the truest sense of the word.

He lived his life by his own rules, set his own agenda, and never compromised or sold out his principles. He achieved more in 80 years of climbing than most would accomplish in multiple lifetimes. He was unrelenting in the pursuit of his passion. Beckey may be gone, but his accomplishments and legacy will continue to inspire and motivate future climbers for generations to come. Climb on, Fred, climb on.

Top: Fred Beckey, Featured speaker Mazama Annual Banquet, 1976. Mazama Library and Historical Collections, VM1994.009 Ken Hollingsworth Collection. Bottom: Fred Beckey speaking at the Mazamas clubrooms, 1976. Mazama Library and Historical Collections, VM1994.009 Ken Hollingsworth Collection

DECEMBER 2017 17

A Hunchback, A Devil, and Some Gnomes Article & photos by Darrin Gunkel

I

t can be difficult to tell exactly where Hunchback Mountain, the ridge rising directly behind Zigzag, ends and Devil’s Peak, the site of a decommissioned lookout anchoring the east end of the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness, begins. The two are really just features of the tenmile long ridge above the east wall of the Salmon River Canyon. It’s covered from end to end in ancient forest, which in some ways is a shame, because Mt. Hood’s summit is just ten miles away.

Viewpoints are few, and more often than not, on the volcano-less west side. If it weren’t for the lookout on the ridge’s high point, 5,045-foot Devil’s Peak (which itself barely has a view of its giant neighbor), the network of trails up, down, and over would see even fewer visitors than it does.

As it is, the lookout does draw a steady and increasing stream of hikers, taking advantage of the excellent, crowd-free training, and often spending the night in the historic building that some mysterious volunteers keep well-preserved and well-stocked.

THE DEVIL AND THE HUNCHBACK There are five ways to reach the lookout on Devil’s Peak. One is easy.

Of the other four, it’s a matter of picking your poison. The main difference between the Cool Creek and Green Canyon trails is this: Cool Creek is unrelentingly steep. Green Canyon seems unrelentingly steep, but you get a couple mile break two-thirds of the way up. The Hunchback trail gets you up the ridge with a little less pain, but once there, you have a 6-mile rollercoaster ride up and down the ridge’s bumps.

At least it’s breezy. They’re all great workouts: Cool Creek rises 3,200 feet in 4.1 miles; Green Canyon 3,700 feet (including ups and downs along the ridge) in 5.7 miles; and Hunchback, more than both in 8-plus miles.

Then there’s the grand loop. Fifteenpoint-seven miles and some 3,600 feet elevation, perfect for a long summer day or fine backpack trip. Sullivan recommends following the Salmon

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River Trail upstream to find a shorter leap up to the Hunchback’s ridge. This may seem the sanest way, to some, but it’s longish, and to close the loop, you have to descend the Green Canyon Way’s madness after clocking 12 and a half miles and a lot of elevation. Your knees may have trouble forgiving you.

Why not just be done with the hard part early by beginning the loop with Green Canyon? Then, you give yourself a chance of enjoying the rest of day on the long, easy (mostly) stroll down the Kinzel Lake and Salmon River trails.

Doing the route this way, you’ll also likely have company the final few miles, which may be welcome. Did I mention how lonely most of these trails are?

It’s tough to find trails more lonesome. In a full, fine June day, the kind of day that fills parking lots elsewhere beyond capacity, I saw three other people on the Green Canyon route and just one other person at Devil’s Peak. He’d come up Cool Creek.

That lonesomeness may not ultimately work to the advantage of these trails.

Navigating the blow down along the ridge, you’d be forgiven for wondering if maintenance happens to be a priority for no one. (But you would be wrong. See below.) And several sections of Green Canyon have begun to slide out and don’t look like they’ll stand another winter or two unless someone gets up there with an adze, saw, and crib-wall engineering knowhow. Get there soon.

Grousing aside, this patch of wilderness has it all: Great work out. Check. Riverside camping. Check. Close to the city. Check.

Scenic (enough, and in more subtle ways).

Check. Available loop trips. Check. Old Growth. Check. Flower shows. Check.

So you don’t get the Gorge’s surfeit of waterfalls—you never once hear I-84 (even though it seems like it’s loud enough to be heard all the way over here). And while there are spots where geography funnels sound from Route 26 -- listen not all that carefully at the lookout and you can hear trucks laboring up to Govy—peace and quiet are the rule. Did I mention how lonesome these trails can be?

One other thing. Use poles. If there’s such a thing as exposure on a forest trail, you’ll find it on the Green Canyon Way trail, a few spots on Hunchback, and on some tempting side trips off the Salmon River route. Several of those spots have no decent purchase—the pebbly tread could easily send you the way of the rocks and logs that may have once provided footholds: down. Steeply. The trees may break your fall, but not before you gain dangerous momentum.

And what about the easy way up there?

Indeed. What about it?

THE GNOMES For lack of a better word, let’s call the Friends of the Devil’s Peak Lookout gnomes. They’re almost as easy to locate, and according to sources, would rather keep it that way. Search for them online, and you find nothing but the occasional mention in Oregon Hikers posts. Ask at the Zigzag Ranger Station and officials look the other way and start whistling.

Which is, apparently, what they’ve been doing for decades. Back in the day, most fire lookouts in the Cascades were decommissioned, then dismantled, leaving naught but rusting nails, some bits of concrete, and odd blobs of lighteningmelted glass. Devil’s Peak lookout should have met this fate, too. Why it didn’t is not entirely clear, probably on purpose.

Suffice to say that fans of the lookout somehow managed to keep the forest service from dismantling it, and in return, have been doing maintenance, keeping the place stocked with sleeping bags, firewood, board games, occasionally food, water, and various sundries, including—a recent addition—an iPod dock. Last summer, a new stove appeared. Woodwork and repainting happen regularly, and the unseen gnomes doing the work are careful to scrape old paint into bags and pack out rotted boards. The catch is, all their hard work is technically illegal. Hence all the (more or less) secrecy. Since the lookout stands atop a peak inside the Salmon Huckleberry wilderness, its very existence is verboten. But as long as the Friends of Devil’s Peak Lookout keep it up, no one in officialdom is complaining. It’s an arrangement that dates back long ago, that nobody today will claim to remember the details of. Calls to the Mt. Hood National

Forest headquarters regarding the Friends of Devil’s Peak Lookout were not returned.

What is known about the gnomes of Devil’s Peak is that they do the work for love, rather than money.

The gnomes aren’t known to be recruiting, but in a sense, they are. As the advent of social media made it totally impossible to keep outdoor treasures secret, their work’s grown more difficult.

Vandals carve names into the rafters.

People forget to latch the door and the lookout fills with snow, then water. Higher use equals more wear and tear. So, if you do plan to spend an afternoon or night up there, pretend you’re a gnome: do something to leave the place better than you found it.

The Hunchback and the Devil keep other, not-so-gnomic workers, busy too.

The rough shape of the trail is due in no small part to geography. There’s no water; it’s a wilderness so crews can’t use any machines, even winches, to lift logs.

Drastically steep slopes make washouts inevitable. And it’s on a ridge that gets blasted from every direction so blow down is the rule. Trail crews were able to clear logs from three of the ridge trail’s ten or so miles last summer. And already this year, an early storm has re-littered the trail. And if Oregon endures another summer like 2017, those crews will be called away to fight fires before the mess gets fixed. One thing officials in the Zigzag Ranger District will say about Hunchback Mountain and Devil’s Peak: they’d love to have more, official volunteer help.

DECEMBER 2017 19

International Experience Comes to Oregon

by Eric E. Hoem

V

isualize a day hike past Mirror Lake and to the top of Tom, Dick, and Harry Mountain in pleasant August weather. After lunch at the top enjoying views of Mt. Hood and the Oregon Cascades, your group returns to the lake, drops their daypacks, strips to swimsuits, and dives in for a refreshing dip. Half an hour or so later, they get out, towel off, dress, and amble back to the cars. All perfectly normal for them. But you realize that this is not a typical Mazama hike. In fact, the hikers with you are Norwegians spending two weeks experiencing Mazama activities in Oregon as well as bringing their own customs to the adventure.

HOW DID THIS UNIQUE EXPERIENCE COME INTO BEING? A year of planning by five Mazamas culminated in hosting a two-week visit by six Norwegians from Molde, Norway, from Aug. 13–27. The trip was planned as an exchange with the Molde og Romsdal Turistforening (MRT), which is the local outdoor club that assisted a 2015 Mazama Outing to the Northwestern Fjordlands of Norway.

Organized by Tom Bennett, the Mazama group responsible for the 2017 exchange visit included Eric Hoem, Paul Steger, Debi Danielson, and Sue Griffith. They all had a hand in arrangements and logistics for a hosted visit that centered on the August solar eclipse and covered a thousand miles of travel in northwest and central Oregon.

An integral part of the planning was homestays which would give our Norwegian guests a more personal experience. Debi Danielson, Tom Bennett, Sue Griffith, and Paul Steger all opened their homes for the visiting group. Several comments from the Norwegian group at the end of the visit mentioned this aspect of the experience. Inka Schmaus, a clinical psychologist, said, “It was really nice that we could stay at ‘homestays,’ not hotels. That added a great deal of authenticity to the stay.”

20 MAZAMAS

Mazama staff members were also an important part of making this adventure successful. Because it related to the 2015 Outing, the Norwegians were given member rates for their climbs cards as well as for their stay at Mazama Lodge where Charles Barker made them feel at home. In addition, our farewell dinner at the end of the tour was held at the MMC, so the Norwegian group could experience our facility.

The visit began with a two-day exploration of Portland. Eric Hoem and former Mazama member Varis Ratnieks led the group on a Forest Park ramble. Later, Tom Bennett and Paul Steger showed them downtown Portland and the PSU campus, walked the Tilikum Crossing Bridge, and completed their tour of Portland at Next Adventure and, of course, Base Camp Brewery.

Then we hit the road. With Eric and Tom driving, the group traveled to Mazama Lodge via the Columbia River Gorge and a hike to Angel’s Rest. We spent three nights at Mazama Lodge, where we hiked Tom, Dick, and Harry Mountain and enjoyed an exciting Deschutes River rafting trip.

On our way to central Oregon, the group stopped at the Warm Springs Museum for a glimpse into Native American history as well as a Heritage Fair then in progress. Hosted by Pat

and Paul Steger at their Crooked River Ranch home, the group began their stay with a walk to the river and a swim. We had learned to expect that a dip in cold water was a well-loved custom for the fjordlanders.

With the wildfires raging near Sisters, some planned activities had to be altered, but alternatives were not difficult to find.

Instead of heading for McKenzie Pass and a hike at Black Crater, the group did the long loop at Smith Rocks via the Burma Road trail, swam when they reached the River Trail, and the next day spent an afternoon at the Rope-de-Dope wall.

In spite of the smoky haze hanging over central Oregon, Jon Arne Øren, an electrical engineer by profession, commented that Oregon offers “beautiful country and much more sunshine than we are used to in Norway.”

Solar eclipse day needed some rearranging as well. We were staying very near the line of totality and had planned to view the spectacular event from there, but, as smoke from the wildfires filled the air, the group had to head east to find clear skies for an experience that, although very quickly over, awed everyone.

Retired high school teacher, Vidar Halass, said afterward, “I have never experienced an eclipse before. It was a really exciting experience.”

The next day, August 23, Paul Steger led a climb of South Sister. Leaving the Devil’s Lake Trailhead before daybreak, the group climbed through the forest and crossed the open plain that looks right at the mountain. However, smoke clouded the air here as well, so the views of the central Oregon Cascades were obscured. The Norwegians are not only very fit, but as we learned, typically hike at 3 mph, which got them to the summit much faster than a couple of their 2 mph hosts, and gave them time for a very leisurely lunch at the summit before returning to the trailhead.

The last phase of the visit took us to the Oregon coast where Sue Griffith and husband, John Sorenson, hosted the group. Sue led the group on a Neahkahnie Mountain hike as well as to Cape Falcon.

Not at all deterred by us telling them how

cold the Pacific is, the Norwegians once again donned swimsuits and plunged in, just not for quite as long as they did in the lakes and rivers of the Cascades and Central Oregon.

The leader of the Norwegian group, architect Sven Michaelis, summed up his group’s experience this way: “We went around in Oregon and learnt a lot about this wonderful state. The various tours showed us Oregon from different sites: alpine mountains, the desert, volcanoes, and, of course, the fantastic coast. I was part of the planning team both in 2015 in Norway as well as in 2017. I think the teams did really good work both times.

Maybe this is a start of cooperation for more outings around the world.”

Left page (from top): Rogue River rafting trip.

Photo: Anja Michaelis. Relaxing on the summit of Neahkahnie Mountain. Left to right: Eric Hoem, Vidar Halaas, Inka Schmaus, Jon Arne Ørne. Anja Michaelis, Sue Griffith, Frode Groedahl, Sven Michaelis, Tom Bennett. Photo: Eric Hoem. Norway group leader, Sven Michaelis, enjoying lunch, summit South Sister. Photo: Eric Hoem. Members of the group from Norway descending Tom, Dick, and Harry Mountain. Photo: Sven Michaelis.

This page: Smoky view from the summit of South Sister. Photo: Sven Michaelis. Jon Arne Øren celebrating on the summit of South Sister. Photo: Eric Hoem.

DECEMBER 2017 21

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members:........................................................................ 37 Peter Bellamy—Mt. Hood Juliet Bennett-Stroud—South Sister Walt Blomberg—Mt. Hood Tim Bradley—Mt. St. Helens Annie Brennan—Huayna Potosi Heather Brooks—South Sister Laura Burger—Old Snowy Juan Francisco Carceles—Aneto Deepa Chetty—Mt. St. Helens Elayne Logan Currie—Huayna Potosi S Drury—South Sister Darren Ferris—Mt Hood Paul Fitzgerald—Mt Hood Alexander Freeman—South Sister Sara Gille—Mt. St. Helens Penny Gneiting—Mount Adams Sweeney Grabin—Mt. St. Helens Corinne Handelman—Mt. St. Helens Sarah Hargand—South Sister

Sasha Hashemipour—Mt. St. Helens Liz Hildebrandt—Mt. St. Helens Sherri Hoffman—Old Snowy Kristi Hooton—Mt. St. Helens Kathy Kim—South Sister Nicholas Kimberly—South Sister Anna Maria Lopez—Glacier Peak Bill Lowder—Mt. Baker Ross Mattson—Mt. St. Helens Miska Paulorinne—Mt. Rainier Linda Peterson—Mt. Baker Jakob Pippin—South Sister John Richards—Mt. Baker Eric Stern—Mount Shasta Gerli Taal—Middle Sister Pamela Vonderluft—Watzman Alexander Willson—Mt. Adams Ashley Wood—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements:........................................................................ 9

Jim Brewer (1991), Carol Conrades (1977), Christopher Corless (2003), Gene Estabrook (1990), Brian Lawrence (2014), Andy Nuttbrock (2014), Stephanie Schoap (2014), Ashish Shavarna (2014), Tammy Stephens (2015)

Deceased:................................................................................ 4 Fred Beckey (2001), James Craig (1954), Dick Kolte (1998), Lonay Nelson (1971)

Total Membership as of Oct. 31: 2017—3,706; 2016—3,683

April 22, 2018

www.bend-marathon.com

5K & 10K

SPONSORED BY:

22 MAZAMAS

Anatomy of a Climbing Accident

by Kristie Perry and Darrin Gunkel

I

t’s a dangerous sport, mountaineering. By some accounts, the most dangerous. The majority of Mazama climbs, though, proceed without incident. Rack that up to leader and assistant (and frequently, team member) experience, a strong safety ethic born of respect, and world-class training. Those are also the reasons why when things did go wrong for climber leader Josh Lockerby’s team on North Sister last August, the story played out as well as anyone could hope.

First climbed in the mid-1920s, North Sister is known as “The Black Beast of the Cascades.” It’s also the quintessential slag heap of the Cascades: “It’s a pile of kitty litter, loose andesite. The only solid rock is on the summit,” says Lockerby. He adds that most people only lead North Sister once or twice. He’s been to the summit eight times, his first time in 1986, with Jack Grauer.

This time around, it was a warm and muggy August weekend, and the team wasn’t daunted by a chance of thunderstorms in the forecast. It was an overnight trip involving a five-mile trek to base camp and an early bedtime. The next morning, a wee-hours alpine start would put the team in good position to make the 10,005 foot summit and the long slog back to the Pole Creek trailhead in time to head to nearby Sisters, Oregon to celebrate. The team took their time getting up to base camp at 7,100 feet on the moraine just below Hayden Glacier. It was a physically strong group with a mixed skill set. Someone asked why there weren’t more women on the climb. “I don’t gender balance,” says Lockerby, “I skill-balance.

If you have a lot of weak people, it’s hard on the strong people. If you have a lot of strong people, it’s boring.”

A few thunderstorms did roll through on the approach and later that evening.

Nothing bad enough to call off the climb, but the team decided to push up the start, according to one member (and climb leader in his own right), Andrew Bodien, to improve chances of making the summit before any afternoon weather might roll in and make things hairy. The weather didn’t bother team member Andy Nuttbrock. “I was feeling good,” he said. “Everything was going as planned and moving along. The

thunder and lightning was a nice twist on the first day and the night before the climb. I had not experienced that kind of weather on that climb to date. It was a good, fun time on the way up.”

The climb went routinely.

“Just usual conditions: slogging on loose crap, some trail, some snow up to 9,500 feet.

Pile moraine, then you gain the top of the moraine on dirt trail. Snow was just soft enough we didn’t need crampons,” says Lockerby.

After making the saddle between North and Middle Sister, the team headed up a ridge, the first half a scree slog of the worst kind: loose and abrasive. After that, things settled down, until the Terrible Traverse: a 45–70 degree angle snow slope. The team tackled it in the usual manner: straight across with running belay.

The plan was to move fast and light across the traverse, up the bowling alley beyond, and to the summit. The team dropped their packs, but made sure to bring two first aid kits. Linda Mann led the traverse. She slid at one point where it got really steep, but Lockerby, on belay, caught her. “It wasn’t a big deal,” he says, “she’s like 100 pounds.” So he kicked in steps down to a shallower place. Safely past the Terrible Traverse, Lockerby and team member

Blackhawk over Broken Top.

Andy Nuttbrock set up a rope through the Bowling Alley, a chimney that climbs up towards North Sister’s summit block. They put a hand line up the summit block itself, and everyone made it to the top by 10 a.m.

Assistant leader Alex Lockard, an experienced rock climber, led people down. Lockerby stayed back to belay Nuttbrock, who cleaned the summit.

Lockard, Bodien, Nuttbrock, Matt Krueger, Walker McAninch, Whitney Lindhall, and Lockerby were all staged there waiting for climbers below to get off the rope at the bottom of the Bowling Alley. It was 10:45 a.m. Lockerby tells what happened next: “Where I was standing is notorious for having a lot of loose rock. The first time I climbed it with Jack Grauer, he called the rock tombstone. It’s a pile of loose dirt with boulders lodged. What I walked over probably thousands of people had walked on. But this time, the rock just gave way.

Continued on next page DECEMBER 2017 23

Accident, continued from previous page I started sliding. It happened so quickly.

This rock was moving on my right side and it looked formidable. There was a rock to my right that I knew I didn’t want to tangle with. I was sliding uncontrollably until I came to a stop about 10–15 feet below.

That rock landed on me. I had my right arm extended behind me to brace myself.

Then that rock landed on my arm. I yelled something to the effect of ‘I’m pinned! I’m stuck!’ This rock was the size of a laundry basket, and about 250 to 300 pounds. Two people helped lift the rock up and I pulled my arm out.

“I’m pretty sure I was scared. I wasn’t freaking out, I was concentrating on getting away from the rock.

“I had some relief that it wasn’t any worse. And a feeling of disbelief. I didn’t think anything like this would happen to me. I wondered what my wife would think.

I couldn’t remember learning anything about this in MFA (Mountaineering First Aid course). I tried to lift my arm and I couldn’t. I wanted to get my shirt off because I needed to check for blood. The team didn’t want me to do that because they knew it was broken. That was my one stubborn moment. There was no bleeding, just a couple of scrapes, a little road rash.

“Thank god we had those two first aid kits. We used Alex’s folding sit pad as a splint. Walker gave his light jacket to use as a wrap. Someone had a triangular bandage to sling it up.

“About the time they were setting the sling, the team started wondering about shock. I was most concerned about 24 MAZAMAS

whether my wife was going to ground me from climbing ever again, so I knew I was gonna be okay. Still experiencing pain and disbelief, I knew I was done leading that trip, and I knew I had to acknowledge that to the group.

“So I asked Andrew to lead the team down. Alex could have done it. He has enough technical know-how. I figured Andrew knew more of the logistics. This wasn’t an issue. The rest of the team had already begun discussing this. And they just needed me to say something. I knew the team as a whole had to put out a different effort now. I told ‘em I’ll speak up if I need to, but you guys are in charge. I know you’ll look out for my safety.”

The team let the three members who’d already made it down the pitch know what was going on. Bodien decided to call 911 and the Mazamas immediately, and that made a big difference. “The feedback we got from Search and Rescue was that we did the right thing by calling 911 right away,” says Bodien. “In their experience, people wait until they get themselves into a worse situation, then they call 911. By calling when we did, we gave them time to make a good decision whether or not they were going to respond.”

It was time to get moving again.

McAninch and Lindhall descended first.

Nuttbrock built an anchor and belayed Lockerby down, partly climbing, partly being lowered. Krueger climbed down below Josh to point out good footholds.

“I was trying to stay calm,” Lockerby said. “The worst thing I could do is act

crazy. I’ve done enough first aid training to know no one wants a crazy patient. I kind of felt like we had this bad situation, but I just thought let’s embrace this and make the best of it.”

The next big challenge was getting back across the Terrible Traverse on running belay. They made the move in two teams.

The first, the heaviest climbers, put Lockerby in the middle with Krueger, who helped clip him through. Lockerby was able to use his ice axe for a self-belay. The snow was starting to set and the second rope team had a harder time getting across. It was about 1 p.m. when they got to the end of the snowfield, two hours since the fall.

The first rescue helicopter spotted the group as Lockerby finished the traverse.

It landed 1,300 feet below the climbers to drop off two members of the SAR team.

The helicopter returned and dropped off two more rescuers as the second rope team was packing away their harnesses and crampons. They began to descend the ridge towards the rescuers. “We never thought to short rope,” says Lockerby, “but I was comfortable going at a reserved pace.

Lesson here is that while the pain was relevant, it only slowed my pace. It did not stop it.” Around 2 p.m., they met the first two rescuers climbing up towards them.

SAR conducted an exam, complimented the team on their splinting job, and expressed concerned about swelling in Lockerby’s broken arm. This could indicate “compartment syndrome,” a loss of circulation to the extremities that

can eventually result in amputation, so they decided to evacuate Lockerby by helicopter, and Bodien led most of the Mazama team back to base camp via the route they’d ascended. The rescuers, Nuttbrock, Krueger, and Lockerby made their way down the southeast ridge.

Lockerby explains their decision: “I was not expecting to go down this way, but the search and rescue folks were the

experts here. I was short-roped for some additional protection. This route had some third class rock and I had to be belayed a couple of times (good thing I left the harness on). The weather was changing. It remained fairly clear with smoke, but the wind picked up. There was no safe way for a helicopter to extract me off the relatively narrow section of the ridge (which extended from 7,800 feet to the summit).

There was some doubt it would be possible down lower where a helicopter could land because they don’t land in the dark. At one point I was told horses could be an option, but I would rather have walked all the way out. My pain was always present, but was tolerable in the sling. It seemed to hurt less when I was traveling versus staying put. I think it was because I was focused on my balance as I descended. As it turned out, we made it to a flat area at 7,800 feet at around 7:15 p.m. About 15 minutes after we got to the landing zone, the helicopter arrived. We took off with two of the search and rescue guys and I was transported to St. Charles Hospital in Bend.”

The next day, the team went to visit Lockerby in the hospital and get the

lowdown on his injuries: a broken ulna and dislocated elbow. He spent two nights in the hospital, but the prognosis was good: “I totally want to climb up there and spit on the rock,” he said. “It’s too early to tell when I’ll be able to climb again. I’ll probably be able to lead BCEP again in the spring.”

Later, in response to his request for feedback and GPS tracks of the rescue, Lockerby got an email from the Deschutes County Search and Rescue. Aside from scolding him for using an old helmet, and some grousing about the size of the team (they feel it’s safer to go in smaller groups), the response was positive. The team called for help early enough that SAR could respond easily. They made it out of the hairiest spots on their own. And they had a good attitude: “They’ve experienced groups completely checking out once SAR took over. But our team, they said, continued to get things done. They remarked we were really trained to be in the mountains and knew what to do,” says Lockerby. “It’s our story, not just my story. I was the patient, but the team was the victim. This had an impact on everyone. A fairly positive one in the end.”

DECEMBER 2017 25

A Summary of the Incident on North Sister on August 12, 2017 Details & Lessons Learned by Josh Lockerby I went to bed at dusk. At around 12:30 a.m. there was some lightning and a shower that lasted for ~15 minutes. At 2 a.m. (wake-up), we had ~75 percent overcast.

Climb team on the hike in.

BEFORE THE CLIMB A team of 12 was arranged. There was one cancellation who was replaced.

Weather forecast was a chance of thunderstorms during the afternoon and evenings on August 10 and 11. Drive up to trailhead was fine. Smokey air was present.

AT THE TRAILHEAD Weather was warm. It has rained the night before. The alternate climber in the team had second thoughts on the trip and decided to cancel. While nobody likes to see this happen, I personally have been in the same position and decided to “follow my gut.” The science on this is not clear to me, but I sometimes wonder is this was more than a coincidence. Nonetheless, the rest of the team went in. While the weather did not look it at the time, I expected precipitation before the day was done.

APPROACH TO CAMP We took off after 9 a.m. As expected, showers were encountered. We took an extended break under the trees since there was no hurry. We arrived at camp at 7,200 ft. around 2 p.m.

NIGHT BEFORE THE CLIMB Very casual. Thunderstorms popped up to the east. We had very light precipitation.

26 MAZAMAS

CLIMB TO SNOW TRAVERSE We set out at 3 a.m. under 10 percent overcast. Hike up the mountain was routine.

We arrived at the traverse at around 7 a.m.

Weather was good. Some smoke.

SNOW TRAVERSE TO SUMMIT Someone mentioned that recent beta suggested the moat on top of the traverse was doable. Linda checked it out, but it was decided the traditional running belay across the snow would be executed instead. I made sure there was at least two first aid kits going to the summit. I had Linda (Intermediate Climbing School—ICS—grad) lead across.

I was the second. There was a slip at a the steepest section of the traverse. Linda continued across a shallower slope 10 feet below. I kicked in steps at the slip for the rest of the team. Andy (third on the first rope team) and I headed up to set up a handline at the top of the Bowling Alley. I stayed to monitor the team going up while Andy set up a summit handline using the rope from the second rope team. We all make the summit a little after 10 a.m. The team started down.

Andy and I cleaned the summit pitch. Above the Bowling Alley pitch Alex, Andrew, Andy, Matt,

Author’s Note: The information provided here is from the perspective of those who were participants of the climb. It is possible that inconsistent information from other accounts may differ. It is my opinion that the authors of those accounts were sincere and any discrepancy is related to accidental misinformation or some other personal perspective. The intent of this article is to detail out the incident on N Sister and how it was managed and what can be learned.

Walker, and Whitney resided waiting to go down. I think I was discussing logistics with Alex (the assistant).

THE INJURY It was about 10:45 a.m. I was standing up-slope from the rock anchor when the ground beneath me gave way with a ~250 pound rock. My memory is fuzzy here since it occurred over the course of seconds. It seemed I was sliding/shuffling while the

After splinting in the Bowling Alley.

rock was tumbling and I was doing my best to keep moving forward down slope (same vector as the rock).

I was not able to move to the side.

I came to a stop first with my legs down slope, torso up, and my right arm behind (I don’t remember where my left arm was) with the palm facing down when an instant later the rock went to rest on my arm, pulling my torso down to the ground ... I did yell. I was also stuck.

FIRST AID I believe two people lifted the rock up so I could pull my arm out. I was in pain and was very painful to lift my arm by itself. Without inspection, I remember someone saying it was broken despite no bleeding and the arm still being covered by my clothes.

Given the mechanism of injury I would have thought the same. Still some clothes was removed to expose the arm and it was wrapped in a light jacket, splinted with a sitting pad, and slung with a triangular bandage.

I don’t remember a secondary survey being done. I certainly did not think to do it. Having gotten past the initial shock of the incident the team situation began to sink in. I asked Andrew (climb leader) to take over the team. Normally, it is the assistant (Alex) and he would have done fine. But, I knew there was going to be plenty for everyone to do and Andrew had more experience. I knew I was now the patient, had to focus more on myself, and trusted the rest of the team. I told Walker to let the rest of the team below the Bowling Alley pitch of what happened.

DESCENT TO BELOW THE TRAVERSE I felt I could climb down assisted with the pain I had (about 4–5).

The Bowling Alley rock pitch had a fixed line already installed. Alex had the other rope. Alex set up a top rope belay for me and I down climbed on a firm belay. Matt went down the fixed line and spotted my footing. Halfway down, there was a slung boulder where I had Matt clip a locking carabiner to serve as a redirect to prevent swinging in the event of me falling. I got down to the

anchor at the bottom of the pitch and clipped in. Andy came down and belayed me out of the Bowling Alley as a precaution. Andrew and Alex cleaned the rock pitch. When I got to the snow traverse, Terry had scouted the moat, he made it, but suggested the snow pitch for me. Linda helped put on my crampons. A six person team was set up with Matt and me about 3 feet apart in the middle and 2 larger people staggered on both ends of the rope. Fortunately, uphill was on the left so self-belay was realistic. Matt clipped through the pickets for me. I got across at about 1 p.m. The helicopter transporting the first two search and rescue folks flew by and off-loaded them about 1,300 ft. below our position. After the second rope team came across gear was rearranged and my pack was distributed. My harness was left on. Before we started down the same helicopter returned with two additional rescuers. We started down. Suresh was in front and Matt was behind for assistance. We never thought to short rope, but I was comfortable going at a reserved pace.

Lesson here is that while the pain was relevant, it only slowed my pace.

It did not stop it.

MEET-UP WITH SEARCH AND RESCUE We caught up with the first two rescuers at ~2:30 p.m. I was checked out and the other two arrive sometime later. They had positive comments on the first aid given so far as well as our initiative to call early and descend to them. One of the rescuers noted my vintage helmet and its condition. Apparently, some of the straps had come detached from the shell. I don’t recall getting hit in the head and looking at photos taken earlier in the day as well as photos taken from a climb one month earlier, the helmet failure occurred sometime in between and was not related to the accident ( for shame, Josh). One of the rescuers checked out the splint. He thought we did a good job with it. He also did a quick secondary survey. I was given ibuprofen and acetaminophen. There

From top: On the ascent, where Josh thought they were past the crappy part of the climb. Heading up the Bowling Alley. Photo: Gary Riggs. Linda leading across the steep section. Photo: Gary Riggs.

Continued on next page DECEMBER 2017 27

From left: The x-ray showing the broken ulna. Post-surgery showing new hardware. Sign on Josh’s hospital room at St. Charles.

Summary, continued from previous page was a slight mishap with the re-assembly of the splint however. The sling was arranged such that it was dependent on a safety pin. I thought about speaking up (and should have). 10 minutes later, I learned my lesson when I let out a painful moan after it failed. Anyways, it was a mistake that I believe everyone on the scene will remember. The rescuers were concerned about compartment syndrome (I had to look it up later what that was) and felt a helicopter rescue was preferred. It was decided to split up because the rescue folks preferred to go down the SE Ridge because they did not want me to travel on snow and there was better extraction points going down that way. Andy and Matt accompanied to assist the rescuers. The rest of the team was deemed fit to descend the scheduled route on their own.

extended from 7,800 ft. to the summit).

There was some doubt that it would be possible down lower where a helicopter could land because they don’t land in the dark. At one point I was told horses could be an option, but I would rather have walked all the way out. My pain was always present, but was tolerable in the sling. It seemed to hurt less when I was traveling versus staying put. I think it was because the focus on my balance as I descended. As it turned out, we made it to a flat area at 7,800 ft. at around 7:15 p.m.

DESCENT OF CLIMB TEAM Alex and Andy took the team down. As expected, they descended at faster rate over a longer distance then I did. I did spot them leaving camp at around 6–6:30 p.m. from the SE Ridge.

HOSPITAL I was X-rayed and it was confirmed that my ulna was broken. I had surgery the next day and was discharged a day later.

DESCENT OF THE PATIENT I was not expecting to go down this way, but the search and rescue folks were the experts here. I was short-roped for some additional protection. This route had some third class rock and I had to be belayed a couple of times (good thing I left the harness on). The weather was changing. It remained fairly clear with smoke, but the wind picked up. There was no safe way for a helicopter to extract me off the relatively narrow section of the ridge (which 28 MAZAMAS

HELICOPTER TRANSPORT About 15 minutes after we got to the landing zone, the helicopter arrived. We took off with two of the search and rescue guys and I was transported to St. Charles Hospital in Bend.

LESSONS LEARNED ▶▶ Regarding the accident itself. I felt there was no flagrant cause. The rock was ready to give with a push and yet there was no indication that that was the case. I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. ▶▶ This was the kind of climb where not all packs need to go to the summit. I was sure glad when I insisted at least two first aid kits go however. ▶▶ This was my first time as a patient in a serious injury, so this is hard to compare, but I knew that my role as

a leader on this trip was now very limited. I feel that it is very important to understand that. For anyone in an injury situation, as soon as the situation is stable, take a deep breath, and contemplate your situation and the abilities of those around you. And then trust them to baby you. It will make it all less suckey. ▶▶ In general Mazama training works! The team had plenty of skill. In this case, we all could have descended together. We were ready for that—I appreciated the airlift however. ▶▶ Call for help as early as possible. We were complimented on this. It was one of the reasons I got out as quick as I did. ▶▶ An early start helped. Not just on the whole trip, but a later start may have resulted in a even longer trip since the snow field we went across was starting to soften. ▶▶ If the team feels capable of self-rescue, then do it! This is a sort of subjective statement, but if the team was capable, the weather was cooperating, and I was willing, then that too saved a lot of time. We could have lost 3-5 hours if we just sat there waiting for rescuers. ▶▶ Some rescue skills the Mazamas could easily teach: Short roping on dry steep terrain and a pendulum belay. Neither really requires an anchor, rather, it would be to help keep a moving but disabled climber from further harm. ▶▶ The rescuers involved were a great bunch. They were professional, but seemed to have a good time if the situation allowed.

New

Coming Soon!

Mazama Website The Mazamas are due to launch our new website in early 2018. This new website is set to bring exciting new functionality to the Mazamas. We want you all to be ready for the launch, and there are a few things you need to know to ensure success!

All class & activity registration will be online, including climbs, hikes, outings, and educational programs All class & activity management will take place online Each website user must have their own unique email address, if you currently share an email address now is a good time to get your own.

Mazama activity participation will be tracked in your online profile (new activities) Mazama training and some relevant external training will be managed through the new badge system

NEXT STEPS We are currently testing features, and reporting bugs and user interface improvements to the web developers.

This work is being done by a team of Mazama web ambassadors who have a variety of different experience levels both with the Mazamas and with technology, as well as by staff.

Some of your Mazama history MAY be a part of your profile upon launch, but it will not be a complete history as we don’t currently have a mechanism to track your Mazama history.

We have completed a test migration of data in our current database (basic contact information, membership status, basic classic descriptions, some hikes and climbs) into the new Salesforce database.

You will be able to view a complete calendar of Mazama activities, including climbs, hikes, classes, AYM events, Classics events, and more in ONE location—the searchable online Mazama calendar

We are reviewing the data migration steps and will do the final transfer of data in mid-December. At that time the staff will transition onto the new database.

CHANGE IS COMING!

We are reviewing and, in some cases, rewriting our current website content in order to populate the new site.

The new Mazama website is going to dramatically change the way in which you engage with the Mazamas. From signing up for an activity to managing a class or signing up for a volunteer role, it will ALL be new!

We have been working hard to make the new website simple to use and intuitive to all users. We are excited to bring you this new functionality, and we want you to be prepared for the upcoming changes! Whether you are an activity participant, class coordinator, or activity leader you will need to learn how to navigate our new website and work within our new system.

While we have devoted a significant amount of time to usability, you will still need to be prepared to spend some time getting used to a new system. We will be sending regular emails to our email list on the upcoming changes, so if you aren’t already receiving our emails, we recommend signing up here: tinyurl.com/MazSignUp

Many pages on our current site will not move over to our new site. We have used Google analytics to review hit rates on our current site. Any page that receives very minimal activity will not be moved over to the new site.

The new site will be ready to launch in time for BCEP registration in early February.

Our old site will remain available for approximately 6-months as we transition onto the new site; however, it will not be updated after we launch our new site.

DECEMBER 2017 29

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAYS AT 7 P.M, MID-OCT. THROUGH MIDAPRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER. Thank you Mazamas, friends, and neighbors for supporting our successful Wednesday night series for more than 60 years! Programs are free and open to the public; a voluntary contribution at the door is at your discretion.

We encourage you to carpool, take public transportation, bike or walk to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee.

Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

30 MAZAMAS

DEC. 6—HIKING IN SOUTHWEST TEXAS

DEC. 13—BIKE TOUR MOUNTAINEERING

Bob Breivogel presents a spring Outing to southwest Texas; a place Mazamas seldom visit. Big Bend National Park is a hiker’s paradise containing the largest expanse of roadless public lands in Texas. More than 150 miles of trails offer opportunities for day hikes or backpacking trips. Elevations range from 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains. Elevation changes produce an exceptional variety of plants, animals, and scenic vistas. The trip also briefly visited Guadalupe National Park and a hike through the Carlsbad Caverns.

Terry Campbell and Kyle Heddy have been conducting bike tour mountaineering (BTM) and bikepacking trips since 2010. Bikepacking is a cross between road touring and mountain biking. The bike’s geometry and ability to carry gear is similar to a road touring bike but the they are built with components similar to a mountain bike. These hybrid bikes have been gaining popularity among cycling enthusiasts because they allow us to travel through many landscapes at a pace that’s not too fast. Come learn a little about how people prepare for these adventures, view some breathtaking photography, and hear a few stories that make it all worthwhile.

DEC. 20—THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY OF EASTERN NEPAL Eastern Nepal—the remoteness of this terrain, its rugged trails, scattered human habitation, and monsoonal downpours make for a perfectly challenging beginning to the Great Himalaya Trail. David Burdick and his guide and Sherpa explore paths that are used mostly by locals, as very few trekkers make their way to the wild east of Nepal, covering 330 miles over 29 days. Their journey crosses the Lamba Samba, and then down into the wild Barun Valley. Their trek from Kanchenjunga over to Everest is a combination of cross-country travel and mountaineering. The river valleys and immense mountain vistas unfold, including the massifs of Makalu, Everest, and Lhotse. Lodging offered by indigenous groups of Rai, Limbu, Sherpa and Lhomi people.

DEC. 20 & DEC. 27—HOLIDAY, NO PROGRAM

OUTINGS Foreign and Domestic Adventure Travel HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK MARCH 24–31, 2018

DEATH VALLEY: HIKING & EXPLORATION MARCH 11–17, 2018

Join us on the Big Island of Hawaii where we'll spend a week exploring Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, one of the world's most fascinating biological and geological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. We'll be staying in two cabins right in the park, each with three bedrooms, two baths, a kitchen, and all the comforts of home. Our itinerary will include day hikes (B and C level, the longest will be 10 miles), depending on permits, an overnight backpack either down to the coast (Halape) or up to Red Hill Cabin on Mauna Loa, and one day to explore Hilo and the Hamakua coast.

Outing cost depends on participant numbers (8 min/10 max, plus 2 leaders).

Costs range from $684/$828 members/ nonmembers for a team of 10, or $754/$898 members/nonmembers for a team of 8 (includes lodging and fees).

Each participant is responsible for their meals, rental car, and air travel. Sign up and a deposit of $150 is required by Dec. 15. Contact outing leader, Jay Feldman, at JayF1111@gmail.com or assistant leader, Rex Breunsbach at rbreunsbach@gmail. com for more information or to apply.

Take a late winter getaway to warm, dry, and scenic Death Valley national park in southern California. We will have a variety of hikes, from easy walks to moderately strenuous day trips up various canyons, washes and peaks. There are cultural and historical activities—Scottie’s Castle, Furnace Creek Inn, and abandoned mines and ghost towns. Wildlife viewing, including desert pupfish, bighorn sheep, reptiles, birds and insects is possible. March is around the wildflower bloom, which is very impressive in some years.

Those interested in photography should bring their camera gear. We have the opportunity to view sunrise, sunset, and wildflowers in different areas of the park, such as Zabriskie point, Badwater, and the sand dunes. This is also dark sky park, and we have moonless nights for great views of the heavens.

The trip will be low key and nonregimented. Participants may go off on their own or be part of organized activities, as they desire. Be prepared for a variety of weather conditions, as it can be hot and cold the same day, as well as windy. We will camp six nights at the Furnace Creek group campground.

Participants responsible for their transportation ( flying to Las Vegas and car rental, or driving from Portland.)

The cost including Outing fees and campground is $110–$190, depending on group size (6 min/13 max). Signup deadline is February 15, 2018. Deposit is $50.

Contact leader Bob Breivogel (503-2922940) or breivog@teleport.com

ICE CLIMBING IN HYALITE CANYON, MONTANA JAN. 12–15, 2018 Do you want to be better acquainted with our “local” ice-climbing crags? Or do you want to get a jump on the iceclimbing season to achieve your grander ambitions? This outing will introduce you to Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, MT. Spend four days climbing by day and recovering in the hot springs at night! You must be independent setting top-rope anchors, leading WI2–5, or have a partner in the outing that does. You may hire a reputable guide if desired. Orientation to beginner- and intermediate-level climbing areas through Outing leaders: Rebecca Madore and Ania Wiktorowicz.

Group size limited to 8 participants. Total cost is $563 (8 participants) for lodging, transportation, and outing fees. Food and transportation to/from Bozeman not included. For more information contact either leader: madore.rebecca@ gmail.com or aniaclimbs@gmail.com.

Applications will be posted on-line.

Payment due at time application accepted. Deadline Dec. 11, 2017.

Above: Climber’s first ice-lead on Willow Gully, WI2.

More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.

DECEMBER 2017 31

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check the website at tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

AYM TRADITION:

WINTER WEEKEND

JAN 26–28 Join us at Mazama Lodge on Mt. Hood for the Adventurous Young Mazamas Winter Weekend, January 26–28. During the day we’ll have snow adventures like cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

At night, we’ll have yoga, hot catered meals, games, crafts, and a roaring fire. This event is limited to 65 people and sells out quickly. Learn more at Mazamas.org/activities-events/aym/.

HIKE: DEVILS PEAK LOOKOUT SUNDAY, DEC. 3 A steep hike up to an old fire lookout near ZigZag, with views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. The fire lookout is no longer staffed but we can go inside and check it out. Hike: 8.2 mi RT, 3,200 ft. elevation gain. Difficult. Snowshoes may be required for some parts. Drive: 100 mi RT. Wilderness area; group limited to 12. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, SE corner of garage, at 7:30 a.m. Leader: Kirk Rohrig kirk.rohrig@gmail.com

FULL MOON SNOWSHOE FRIDAY, DEC. 3 Tour through White River canyon on Mt Hood, during the full moon of December. Night view of Illumination Rock and summit features. 4 miles RT, 1,200 ft. Drive 178. Snowshoes and two headlamps required. $2/$3 members. Carpool from Fillmore Coffee, 6:30 p.m. Leaders: Toby: creelan@freeshell.org

BACKPACK: WINTER SOLSTICE SNOWSHOE SATURDAY, DEC. 15–16 Snowshoe up to a cozy cabin overnight during the hibernal solstice weekend. Bring food for a wine and cheese sampling party at the top. Tilly Jane guard cabin is on the scenic east face of Mt. Hood. 5 miles RT, 2,100 ft. Drive 180. Shared rental cost ~$35, RSVP via paypal. Winter sleeping bag and snowshoes required. Capped at eight campers. Carpool from Gateway Transit Center, 7 a.m.

Leader: Toby: creelan@freeshell.org

CROSS-COUNTRY SKI: TRILLIUM LAKE SATURDAY, DEC. 16 Easy 5 mile loop around Trillium Lake. Perfect trip for Nordic skiing beginners. Meet 7:45 a.m. at Rockwood 188th Ave. MAX park and ride, 18706 E. Burnside St. Gresham for carpools. Bring your own cross-country ski set up or we can stop at Mt. Hood Adventure on the way for rentals in Government Camp. $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers.

Approx $10 for carpool to driver. Rentals are approx $20.

Return approx. 4 p.m. Leader: Sandor Lau RSVP on Meetup

FULL MOON CROSS-COUNTRY SKI FRIDAY, JAN. 5

Toby has been leading many AYM events to fire lookout towers.

Check the AYM page frequently if you are interested in joining us on one of these unique experiences!

32 MAZAMAS

Ski along Bennet Pass trail at night. Tour this snowy wilderness expanse during the full moon, known as the Ice Moon or Wolf Moon. 7 miles RT, 300 ft. Drive 180. Crosscountry skis and two headlamps required. $2/$3 members.

Carpool from Fillmore Coffee, 6:30 p.m.

Leader: Toby: creelan@freeshell.org

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon on Thursdays–Noon on Mondays.

A special “Thank You” to Dick Bronder who graciously donated a cord of wood to Mazama Lodge just days before our first snow fell. When visiting the lodge please be mindful of building small fires in the fireplace so we can stretch our wood supply through the winter.

SNOWBALL EVENT Mazama Lodge is hosting the 29th Annual Snowball event on Saturday, Dec. 9. This is a Scandinavian themed event where we celebrate Saint Lucy’s Day, also called the Feast of Saint Lucy. There is a special dinner with european style desserts, a live band, and folk dancing with traditional costumes. Reservations for this event can be made by emailing Veronica Newgard at vj_newgard@yahoo.

CHRISTMAS AVAILABILITY Mazama Lodge will be open every day from Thursday, Dec. 14–Tuesday, Jan. 2. We will be closing for one night on Sunday, Dec. 24 at noon and reopening Monday, Dec. 25 at noon.

There will be a simple ham dinner on Christmas as well as a vegetarian option, $13.25/ adults, $7/kids 12 and under.

HOLIDAY COOKIE DECORATING LUNCH On Monday, Dec. 18 we will host our annual Holiday Cookie Decorating Lunch. The cost is $12 per person regardless of age. This includes two dozen cookies to decorate and lunch.

The event goes from 11 a.m.–2 p.m.

TRAVEL PROGRAM Join us Saturday, Dec. 30 from 7–8 p.m. as Captain Kevin Smith and Maureen Gordon of Victoria, Canada take us through the inland passage on their 92 ft. wooden sail boat the Maple Leaf. See some amazing photos and stories about the Kenmode bear, also known at the “spirit bear,” a rare subspecies of the American black bear. National Geographic Traveler’s recently selected their ship and tour company as “50 Tours of a Lifetime.” This is a free program with dinner available at 6 p.m. for $13.25.

NEW YEAR’S EVE We still have a few bunks available for New Years. This year we celebrate our 95th New Years Celebration at Mazama Lodge (a tradition that started in 1923 at our Twin Bridges Lodge). Events begin at 5 p.m. with appetizers and game registration: pool, ping pong, and foosball. Our epic talent show/story slam begins around 9:30 p.m. and rolls into the new year. Our gourmet dinner includes flaming bananas foster and a midnight snack. Adults $20; kids 12 and under, $15.

NEW YEAR’S DAY BRUNCH New Years Day Brunch takes place on Jan. 1 from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. We serve our incredible Eggs Benedict as well as vegetarian options, along with fruit salad, granola, sausage, and pancakes! Adults $10; kids 12 and under, $9.

The lodge is looking for some more coffee/hot chocolate mugs this winter. A few break every year and our inventory is getting low. This is a great excuse to clean your cabinets and bring us that free coffee mug you received for opening a new checking account.

Spirit Bear Program at Mazama Lodge on December 30 at 7 p.m.

DECEMBER 2017 33

Mazama Volunteers

by Sue Griffith

VOLUNTEERING LEADS TO IMPROVED OUTDOOR SKILLS AND LIKE-MINDED FRIENDS

by Wei Chiang

M

y name is Wei Chiang and I’m the current Chair of the Mazama Ski Mountaineering Committee.

My exposure to climbing began in college with rock climbing and mountaineering with the Outdoor Recreation Center at Washington State University in Pullman, Washington. I became enamored with understanding how to travel in the mountains. I wanted to also do a winter sport and at that time, with my limited college budget, I decided to go with snowboarding—the equipment was cheaper and less complex than skiing. A few years later, I heard about a trek in Europe where you travel from town to town on skis along the Haute Route connecting Chamonix, France to Zermatt, Switzerland. This planted a seed. I would need to learn telemark skiing to pursue that adventure.

Fifteen years later, a friend became interested in Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) and invited me to attend an orientation night at the Mazamas where you can see all the different offerings they provide. At that time, I only knew the Mazamas as a climbing organization, but among the tables I spotted the Mazama Ski Mountaineering course. I was originally thinking about taking an Avy 1 course but in looking at the curriculum and the cost of the Ski Mountaineering course, I felt the value and content spread out over eight weeks was a lot more thorough than a three-day avy course. I signed up and have not looked back.

34 MAZAMAS

I joined the Mazamas in the winter of 2012 and took the Ski Mountaineering course in 2013. I found it was a great fit as I got to finally be around like-minded people who love the outdoors and the excitement of skiing. But mainly, I wanted access to the backcountry and to enjoy the untouched snow you rarely find in lift-operated skiing. There was a lot to learn, and I wanted to practice all the things I had learned, so I felt it would be a great opportunity to volunteer to be a ski tour assistant the following year.

When you become a volunteer and assist with teaching the content, you get to better understand what you’re talking about. In improving my own skiing by instructing others, I began to truly understand the techniques and could better apply that knowledge to others. My involvement year after year led to me being nominated as an Assistant Committee Chair. In this role, I had more opportunity to influence the program and ensure a fun and effective course in the future.

The skills that I’ve learned from the Ski Mountaineering course have enabled me to skin up and ski Mt. Adams every summer, summit Mt. Hood and ski off of the Old Chute, attempt the Spearhead Traverse in Canada, ski Middle Sister, backcountry ski the Tantalus Mountain Range in Canada, ski the Whitecap Alpine backcountry, and hopefully one day to finally pursue the Haute Route, which is what inspired me to learn ski mountaineering in the first place. I’ve had the opportunity to develop my avy skills further and meet and learn from well-known tour guides in the Pacific Northwest and Canada. The best part is to experience ski mountaineering with the friends I’ve made at the Mazamas who are the like-minded people I get to be a part of.

At the Mazamas our enthusiastic and skilled volunteers are at the center of just about everything that we do. From activity leaders to class coordinators to committee chairs, the inner workings of the Mazamas are centered around dedicated volunteers who love the mission of the organization and get personal satisfaction in giving back. On these next few pages we highlight several Mazama volunteers and the ways in which they volunteer at the Mazamas as well as how they have used their Mazama skills in other volunteer roles in our community. We thank all of you who have volunteered your time to the Mazamas over the last year and look forward to working with you again in 2018.

The view into the crater from the north side.

Photo: Marty Scott

FROM CLIMB LEADER TO MOUNTAIN STEWARD

by Marty Scott

M

any people know the Mount St. Helens Institute as the organization that administers the climbing permits for Mount St. Helens. I’ve climbed St. Helens dozens of times, leading groups of Mazamas or friends up several different routes over the years. So when I heard that the Mount St. Helens Institute has a volunteer climbing steward program, it sounded like a great opportunity to apply my skills learned in Mazama classes and as a climb leader, and expand my knowledge of the Pacific Northwest’s youngest and most active volcano.

After completing an online application process, a personal interview, and training, I was eligible to rove the climbing routes to educate and assist climbers and to assist on guided climbs and hikes. In addition, I met and got to know staff and other volunteers who are passionate about Mount St. Helens and are devoted to enriching people’s experiences on the mountain through field seminars, guided climbs, lecture series, work parties, and outings. Through the Mount St. Helens Institute, I’ve had the opportunity to learn about the natural history of Mount St. Helens from geologists, biologists, and other experts, some of whom have

been studying the volcano since before it erupted in 1980.

In addition to the mountain stewards who assist visitors on the climbing routes and on trails, other volunteer opportunities include conservation corps volunteers who repair and maintain trails and other facilities, volcano volunteers who share information with the public at visitor centers and other locations, and youth education volunteers who engage students in hands on science in schools and at the Science and Learning Center on the north side of the mountain. My experience as a climbing steward has expanded my knowledge of Mount St.

Helens, its pre-1980 eruptive history, the ecology of the mountain and how it has changed since 1980, and the impact the eruption had on the people and animals who live on and around the mountain.

As I continue to lead climbs of St. Helens and other peaks for the Mazamas and to assist people as a climbing steward, I hope this increased knowledge will enable me to share information with other people on the mountain to expand their knowledge, improve their experience, and encourage them to want to protect this very special place.

Continued on next page DECEMBER 2017 35

Volunteers, continued from previous page BUILDING & SHARING SKILLS THROUGH VOLUNTEERING

by Jay Chambers

I

t was a beautiful summer day on Mt. Rainier in July 2006.

I was leading a Mazama climb team on the descent from a successful summit when I saw a climber on a two-man rope team in front of us fall into a crevasse. Our climb team rushed to assist the fallen climber while the climber’s partner repeatedly yelled, “My Brother! Oh My God My Brother!” The man’s brother was about 15 feet down inside a crevasse, held in place by self-arrest.

We quickly anchored the rope and rigged a Z-system to pull the fallen climber out of the crevasse. Shortly after we started hauling the fallen climber out, other climbers arrived on the scene so we opted for just muscling the fallen climber out the rest of the way instead of doing the needed resets. Fortunately the climber was not injured and we were able to safely escort him down to Camp Muir.

The feeling of using the skills I had learned during my time in the Mazama education program—from the Basic Climbing Education Program through Advanced Snow and Ice—to help another human being was indescribable. It was like a drug. I had to have more, but how? That is when I decided to apply for membership

in Portland Mountain Rescue (PMR). Fortunately for me they approved my application and for the past 11 years I have served PMR in the field, in their public education branch, and in the boardroom.

PMR provided quite a bit of training in the specific realm of search & rescue, which is a little different than recreational climbing.

However, having a solid base of climbing skills derived from education provided by more experienced Mazama climb leaders has served me well. I will always be thankful for the time those climb leaders volunteered and the knowledge they shared. The funny thing about volunteering is people on the outside see it as giving selflessly to others.

However that is not how I see it. To me

the feeling I experienced when my team was able to return a lost loved one to their family on Christmas Eve was more than worth the inconvenience of being pulled away from a warm fire.

My PMR training has supplemented my Mazama education and you may see me sharing this enhanced knowledge through a Mazama lecture or assisting in a Mazama field session. If you do, know these are all things I learned because someone else volunteered their time to teach me the skills I am now teaching you. Volunteering grows from volunteers.

REFLECTIONS ON 20 YEARS OF VOLUNTEERING

by Keith Daellenbach

I

have been a Mazama member since 1999 and I initially joined so I could take Advanced Rock with friends. I have been climbing for more than three decades with highlights including the North Ridge of Grand Teton, the Northeast Buttress of Slesse, the Liberty and Ptarmigan Ridges of Mt. Rainier, the regular Northwest Face Half Dome, Mt. Fuji, Cerro Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, and first ascents of Mt. Blachnitzky and Peak 6500 in the Coast Range of southeast Alaska.

I helped found and lead the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC), an all-volunteer, non-profit, 501(c)3 organization focused on stopping quarrying and development of the Madrone Wall in Clackamas County, reestablishing recreational access including rock 36 MAZAMAS

climbing, working for permanent protective status as a park, and acting as a long-term “friends of ” parks advocacy partner with Clackamas County Parks after the park opening.

After twenty years, our first three goals are now realized and we will proceed with our fourth goal into the future.

VOLUNTEERING From Instructor to Chairing Mazama Committees to Installing Solar Arrays

by Jeff Hawkins

I

first discovered the Mazamas while on a Street Ramble early one spring in the mid 90s. I was training with friends to hike the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt and while on the ramble I noticed people carrying full packs and talking about climbing. How wonderful. I had climbed Mt. Hood approximately 10 times and had run out of neighbors and friends who wanted to climb.

I quickly joined and that winter took X-country ski classes, working up to instructor, then committee member, and then committee chair. I continued to teach skiing for a couple more years, have assisted a bit since, and will take up teaching again this winter.

Having already had experience mountaineering I started my climbing with the Mazamas by assisting Sarah Lewins with her Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) team. The following year I took Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) and one or two years later took Advanced Rock (AR). I loved rock climbing and assisted

We started as a grass roots organization of rock climbers in fall 1997 when the county was weeks away from blowing up the site for an ill-conceived and costprohibitive hard rock quarry.

We worked with the Mazamas, Access Fund, REI, Patagonia, Meyer Memorial Trust, Jubitz Family Foundation, climbers, citizens, donors, and dozens of businesses including climbing gyms, rural community planning organizations, politicians, conservation groups, scouts, churches, schools—anyone we could partner with to turn around quarry plans to create

with AR for several years, then joined the committee, and finally became the committee chair. While assisting with AR and before joining the committee, I was on the Conservation Committee. We were concerned about climate change and several activities spun out of this concern, including the Melting Mountains Conference, the tree planting program, and the solar array now located on the MMC roof.

We were not able to get the array installed in 2008 when we first worked on the project so for me the solar array was unfinished business.

I’ve thought a lot about

a public park. To all of you we are forever grateful. We raised substantial funds from critical donors. Funds in the early days were needed to take our fight to the county in the form of attorney fees and studies and, more recently, to pay for a substantial portion of the park opening cost. The Mazamas provided several grants over twenty years and an early grant was especially pivotal when the site’s future truly was in the balance. That said, we had a shoestring budget so pro bono work was needed. We located and secured pro bono civil engineering support to create the engineering construction

climate change since the late 1980s when I first became aware of the issue, so I guess it’s my chosen issue among the innumerable important issues and concerns that face us. I grew up around construction. My career was mechanical engineering in high tech. I like doing tangible projects. The Mazamas have a big building.

They are a non-profit. And my experience with the Mazamas has been very fulfilling and life changing in

documents for the access road and parking, prepared detailed cost estimates for the park, won the commitment of the Oregon Army National Guard to work pro bono with County Parks to create the park’s access road and parking as a training exercise, and led volunteer trail building and rubbish removal activities. The result of this was the opening of the first new Clackamas County public park in well over a decade at Madrone Wall.

Our volunteer effort took perseverance, strategic planning, organization, dedicated volunteers like Kellie Rice, MWPC President, who

some important ways. The solar array is a project that fits into all of these areas— construction, engineering, tech, climate change, Mazamas, supporting nonprofits, and the fulfillment of making something big happen with friends. It is a lot more fulfilling to work with and for others than by myself on projects solely for me. It is in this spirit I volunteer my time and talents with the Mazamas.

soldiered on when at times it seemed like we were getting nowhere. We took inspiration from where we could like Theodore Roosevelt, David Brower, Yvon Chouinard, and Martin Luther King, Jr. For the most part, we worked for something—a park—rather than against something—a quarry. We were and are a core group of committed activists with the stomach and tenacity for a relentless, protracted campaign, where giving up never seemed like a viable option. This amazing civic treasure is your victory for you to enjoy.

DECEMBER 2017 37

Volunteers, continued from previous page GIVING BACK TO THE COMMUNITY Meet Mazama Volunteer Aimee Mattson

I

by Aimee Matson have lived in several different areas up and down the West Coast but have called Portland my home for the past nine years. I became involved with the Mazamas during the spring of 2017.

The many years of experience in the outdoors and vast knowledge amongst Mazama members, is what inspired me the most to become a member and volunteer myself. Working with the Outreach Team I have volunteered at the Summer Solstice Event and various film festivals. I am also looking forward to being involved with the Portland Alpine Festival this November.

I believe that being a volunteer is not only beneficial to our outdoor community but to the general public as well. Being able to share what the Mazamas is about and who its members are, strengthens our overall sense of community in a positive manner, not only locally, but beyond Portland as well. Volunteering allows me to give back while building friendships and gaining knowledge all at the same time.

I would encourage any new (or existing members) who are not already involved with volunteering to do so. The level of satisfaction of giving back is pretty high!

Aimee Mattson on the summit of Mt. Hood.

Photo: Brandon Leonardo.

Basic Climbing Education Program If you are ready to tackle snow-capped peaks or outdoor rock, then the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is for you!

This 6-week class includes weekly lectures, team breakout sessions, and weekly conditioning hikes, all designed to get you ready to summit glaciated peaks and rock climb outdoors.

BCEP will not only introduce you to a variety of technical skills, but will also help connect you with other individuals in the climbing community.

38 MAZAMAS

info night Feb. 1, 2018 6:30–8 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

We love these places. *

*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development.

We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps

www.GreenTrailsMaps.com

206.546.MAPS (6277) DECEMBER 2017 39

Volunteer Agreement

by Laura Pigion, Mazama Vice President

S

ince the Mazamas was founded more than a century ago, we have been fortunate to have a strong base of dedicated and passionate volunteers. Volunteerism is at the heart of what we do, and we could not run our programs and activities to the scale that we do today without the gift of time and energy that hundreds of us invest in this organization.

As we look ahead, we want to ensure that this special sense of community in the Mazamas continues to thrive. Through the research we conducted as we developed the Mazamas 2020 strategic plan, we learned that the nature of volunteerism at the Mazamas is changing. More people now prefer to volunteer in shorter time periods as their schedule allows, instead of in longer, committed blocks of time. They also want to be able to decide on short notice whether they will volunteer. Our strategic plan also includes the expansion of the types of education and activity offerings provided by Mazamas, which will include shorter duration offerings where people have a more limited engagement with the Mazamas as part of their busy lives.

With this in mind, and as we think about our volunteer community at the Mazamas—we want to ensure that we remain true to the standards of conduct and ethics that have always been at the heart of what we do. We must make sure that our future students and fellow volunteers continue to experience a safe, enjoyable, educational, effective, and rewarding experience with our programs. We know that so many in the Mazamas do this every day, and as we continue to grow and expand our volunteer base, we want to ensure that all volunteers—existing and new—are aligned to these same standards.

40 MAZAMAS

To accomplish this, the Executive Council approved a Volunteer Agreement in the last fiscal year, which formalizes the core values and expectations that have been part of the fabric of our culture for so long.

The agreement outlines the Mazamas commitment to volunteers, as well as the expectations of volunteers. It also outlines a code of conduct describing the core values that are important to us: Safety, Education, Volunteerism, Community, Competence, Credibility, Stewardship and Respect.

The Executive Council and Mazama staff have signed the agreement, and it has been shared with committees and in several Bulletin articles over the past year. As you may have already seen, activity leaders are helping ensure volunteers have signed the agreement. Going forward, all volunteers will need to sign the agreement before participating in their next upcoming volunteer event and those who are conducting the event will require that their volunteers sign the agreement.

We have heard a question from a few volunteers who have been practicing these standards for a long time, “why do I need to sign the agreement?” We want to recognize that there are so many in our community who practice these standards every day. As dedicated volunteers, we need to help set an example for all of our future volunteers. It is important that as leaders in the Mazamas, we formalize

our values and commitment to one another. By having this volunteer agreement in place, the Mazamas has a way to formally address difficult or unsafe situations that may arise. It ensures that everyone volunteering for our programs understands the expectations and mitigates any potential behaviors that could have otherwise been harmful to our participants, other volunteers, and the Mazamas overall. It also aligns the Mazamas with most other organizations our size and larger: it is rare to show up for an activity with any organization today without being asked to sign a waiver or agreement, but until this past year, the Mazamas did not have any type of formal volunteer standard in place.

As we look ahead, let’s work together to ensure that the best parts of our culture and standards continue to thrive. Let’s hold each other accountable if we do see any behavior that does not align with our standards. And let’s set an example for others who join our organization by signing the agreement and ensuring that others do so as well. If you have not had a chance to sign the agreement yet, please take a minute to review and sign it tinyurl.com/ MazVolAgreement. Thanks for your support! We look forward to seeing you out in the field.

Madrone Wall Park Open

by Keith Daellenbach

A

fter twenty years of public closure, the Madrone Wall Park opened on October 21, 2017. This 44-acre amazing civic treasure has over 100 native plant species, an uncommon stand of Pacific madrone, a few old growth Douglas fir, and a basalt crag roughly 1,000 feet long that soars up to 80 feet high. Over 100 established climbing routes, both traditional and sport, are also found at the site. A downloadable Rakkup app for an online Madrone Wall climbing guide can be found at www.columbiagorgeguides.wordpress.com.

This park is the first new public park to open in Clackamas County in well over a decade. A daily parking fee of $5 is required; six-month and annual parking passes are available through Clackamas County Parks. Park hours of operation are 7 a.m.–8 p.m. July/August, 7 a.m.–6 p.m.

September/October, and 7 a.m.–4 p.m. November through January. There will be a seasonal closure February through June due to seasonal peregrine falcon nesting. Nesting will be monitored and, if it is possible to open early, County Parks will make notification. During closure there will be no public access. Other County Park rules include: fires, alcohol, glass beverage containers, weapons, and fireworks are all prohibited and there is no camping allowed, no firewood gathering or cutting, and dogs/pets must be kept on a leash at all times.

The park is located 2.2 miles east of Carver along Highway 224; the address is 19485 S.E. Highway 224, Damascus, Oregon. Parking is limited at Madrone Wall Park and the conditional use permit allowed for the construction of only 20 parking stalls and two handicap parking stalls. There is no parking allowed along the park access road or along Highway 224. Overflow parking is available at Barton Park and Carver Boat Ramp and there is a TriMet Bus Stop (Bus #30) on Highway 224 near the park access road. The public is encouraged to carpool and bike to the site.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MADRONE WALL MAY BE FOUND AT: ▶▶ www.clackamas.us/parks/madronewall.html ▶▶ www.facebook.com/madronewall ▶▶ www.savemadrone.org

To celebrate the park opening, the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC) is offering a commemorative t-shirt for sale at our cost to include shipping ($10 total cost). These t-shirts will be of heavyweight cloth and will have a small “Madrone Saved, 1997–2007” logo (designed by Kim Lehecka Design) on the front left chest and a full sized logo on the back. To place

your order, we need the following four items from you: 1.

2.

3.

4.

T-Shirt Size: S, M, L, XL, XXL Quantity Mailing Address: Name, Street, City, State, Zip Code Your order placed by the December 31, 2017 deadline

Email Keith Daellenbach at kdaellenbach@gmail.com to place order. We will ship t-shirts early in 2018. Please do not provide the $10 payment to MWPC until after you receive your t-shirt from us. Thank you.

Donate Your Warm Clothing Last year, the Mazamas donated over 600 pounds of much appreciated warm winter clothing to Fish Emergency Services.

You can help our Portland neighbors again this winter.

Please look through your closets for: warm coats & jackets gloves, mittens, hats, and socks warm shirts & pants ... all that fleece clothing the Mazamas are famous for!

Donation boxes are in the lobby of the Mazama Mountaineering Center and at the Ramble sign-in spot at REI. Donations will be accepted through March.

This program is part of the Mazama Trail Trips Committee—for more information contact Tom Davidson at Tedclimbs@gmail.com.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS August 19, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Mark Curran. Eric Dattoli, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Blair Grimmer, Cynthia House, Jack Kuo, Joseph York.

FISH is located at SE 13th and Hawthorne and they serve residents from our Mazama neighborhood. For more information about FISH Emergency Services, please visit their web site: www.fishemergencyservice.org

Mazamas. Your adventure starts here.

DECEMBER 2017 41

TRAIL TRIPS

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A1 Dec 01 (Fri) Tour Pittock Mansion with Classics Flora Huber 503-658-5710. We will join the Classics on a tour of the mansion - $10 fee 1 mi., 25 ft., Drive 25, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Dec 01 (Fri) Cape Horn David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com. Join us for this beautiful hike in the gorge.

We will hike opposite the normal direction starting with the road section and hiking up to the waterfall and viewpoints. This hike will be dog friendly for sociable dogs on leash.

Meet in the west most parking lot at Fishers Landing transit center. 8 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 32, Fisher 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Dec 02 (Sat) Explore Metro Parks: Canemah Bluff Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com.

Hike in a newly developed Metro park on the cliffs above Hwy 99E south of Oregon City. Views of the Willamette in places. Mostly trails in the woods.

Rain pants recommended for hiking in wet brush. Call for directions if you want to meet at the trailhead.

However, limited parking there.

Add-on walk along the bluffs above Oregon City possible. 2 mi., 500 ft., Drive 32, MMC 9 a.m.

HK B2 Dec 02 (Sat) Dog Mountain Loop Bruce Giordano brucegiord32@ gmail.com. Always a good workout and lovely view over the Gorge if we have good weather. Considering the time of year though, you should be prepared for adverse weather conditions including rainy cold weather and possible snow. 7.2 mi., 2,900 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

(AR)MU

SS A Dec 02 (Sat) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe David Nelson 503-657-4058. Wilderness— Limit 12. We will head up White River Canyon approximately 2 miles enjoying the moonlight if the weather cooperates. The pace will be easy to moderate. Bring poles, extra warm clothes (no cotton) and headlamp (10 Essentials). Expected return time between 11 p.m. and midnight. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. We will meet at Clackamas Town Center Transit Center, 4 mi., 600 ft., Drive 110, SnoPark, Meet at Clackamas Town Center at 6:30 p.m.

9225 SE Sunnyside Rd. Go up ramp on the north end of parking structure, I will be on the left. (MH) HK A2 Dec 03 (Sun) Columbia Slough Paul Steger PaulSteger612@ gmail.com. This is a city loop hike on pavement including travel along a dike and through neighborhoods in north Portland. Meet at the SE corner of Kenton Park, N Kilpatrick & N Brandon. We will pass the Kenton MAX stop if wanting to meet at that location; look for us at around 9:10 AM. 5 mi., 100 ft., Drive 0, SE corner Kenton Park 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Dec 04 (Mon) Salmon River Trail (Lower) Flora Huber 503-6585710. From the main Old Salmon River Trailhead, the trail quickly descends into deep forest, and soon traverses above a quiet stretch of the Salmon River 5.2 mi., 100 ft., Drive 40, TH, Sandy Safeway by ATM on 26 8:30 a.m.

(MH)MU

503.684.9698

42 MAZAMAS

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events.

HK B2 Dec 06 (Wed) Greenleaf Peak Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. EXPLORATORY - Seldom traveled steep climb, Partially on switchbacks, service tracks and trails. Greenleaf Peak is 3422 feet high, to the east of Table Mountain. Bring poles and traction 4 mi., 1920 ft., Drive 90, MMC 8 a.m. (AR,GH) HK A1.5 Dec 09 (Sat) Wind Mountain Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503665-6778. Short and steep. This hike is a miniature version of its’ neighbor, Dog Mountain. Prepare for weather that may be naughty or nice. Lunch (buy or bring your own) in Cascade

Locks after the hike. Plan to share bridge tolls. No dogs. 3 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 80, Lewis & Clark - near toilets 9 a.m.

HK A2 Dec 09 (Sat) Trail of Ten Falls Kat Valdre katvaldre@gmail.com.

Oregon’s most impressive collection of waterfalls is at Silver Falls State Park.

Starting at South Falls, we’ll take the Rim Trail to North Falls and visit all ten falls before returning to South Falls for a 20-minute visit to the Silver Falls Christmas Festival. RSVP by Fri. Dec. 8. 7.8 mi., 400 ft., Drive 150, StatePark, Clackamas P&R Garage 7:30 a.m. (WF) MU

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

HK C2 Dec 09 (Sat) Elk-Kings Traverse Rick Craycraft 503-6792113 or leftfield5@juno.com. A coast classic that can get interesting in the winter. Leader will monitor conditions up until day of hike in order to apprise those who sign up about needed equipment, clothing etc. At the very least come prepared for early winter conditions (colder temps, possibly heavy rain). Car shuttle due to shorter days. 8.5 mi., 3,400 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 7:30 a.m. (AR) HK B1.5 Dec 10 (Sun) Dog Mountain Loop Brett Nair 503847-9550. Winter Dog! OK its TECHNICALLY still fall. If the weather is good we will have great views of the gorge post-burn. If not, well, it will be a good way to burn off that Thanksgiving calorie accumulation. Should be a fun adventure either way. We’ll get there early to get a prized parking spot. 7.2 mi., 2,900 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 7 a.m. (AR)MU HK A2 Dec 13 (Wed) Forest Park loop Bertie August 503-358-0274 (no voicemail), or baug357@gmail.com.

Beautiful hike in Portland’s urban park. Be prepared for rain. Poles are helpful on slippery, muddy downhill sections. Alternate meeting location at 10 a.m. sidewalk near chain link fence adjacent to Brazil Electric Motors at 4315 NW St. Helens Rd. Carpooling from the MMC is encouraged due to limited midweek parking along NW St. Helens Road.

5.19 mi., 1,149 ft., Drive 17, MMC 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Dec 13 (Wed) Bunker Hill Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. The Bunker Hill Trail is a short spur trail that branches off the Pacific Crest Trail near Wind River in the small town of Stabler-Hemlock. Bunker Hill itself is a 20 - 25-million-year-old igneous plug that rears above the Wind River valley. 6 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 110, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Dec 15 (Fri) Cape Horn Gary Riggs gary.riggs@outlook.com. You can still get your Columbia Gorge Fix on this hike! Great views of the Gorge, the river, and a waterfall. We will be taking the tour clockwise to put the road walking behind us.

Washingtonians may meet us at the Park & Ride (SR 14 Milepost 26.4) at 8:30 a.m. No RSVP needed; email if you have any questions. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,GH)MU HK A2.5 Dec 16 (Sat) Fanno Creek Trail Hike William O’Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com. Nice urban hike through SE Washington county. Starting at Garden Home Community Center and traveling approximately 6 miles to the Tigard TC on an all-weather surface trail.

Wear comfortable walking shoes. We will tale the #45 Tri-met bus back to Garden Home ($2.50, bring change).

6 mi., 50ft ft., Drive 0, Garden Home Community Center-7475 SW Oleson RD Portland, OR 97223 9 a.m. MU HK B1.5 Dec 16 (Sat) Salmon River Trail Upper Deborah Gant email. deborah2@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Sweet lower elevation hike along the beautiful Salmon River through old growth forest that seems especially remote this time of year.

There is quite a scenic view at the top if conditions are in our favor. Expect possible snow/ice so micro spikes (or other traction) will be required if that turns out to be the case. Poles will be helpful for a few little stream crossings etc. 8 mi., 1000 ft., Drive 80, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO)MU HK A1.5 Dec 17 (Sun) Valley of the Giants Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. This is a LONG drive; I can only promise a return before sunset. It’s awfully hard to visit the most impressive stand of Douglas Fir and Western Hemlock in Oregon. The BLM claims the roads will be open by mid-December, but then we’ll need to monitor snow levels, as no one plows logging roads. RSVP is required by Fri. Dec. 15. 1.4 mi., 535 ft., Drive 220, Gateway 7 a.m. MU HK A2 Dec 20 (Wed) Forest Park: Maple Trail Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Covers all the Maple trail. Along the Wildwood Trail between mile markers 13.5 to 12.75 are impressive old growth trees. Some within a few feet of the trail are up to six feet in diameter. 8.5 miles 980 ft. 8.5 mi., 980 ft., Drive 25, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Dec 23 (Sat) Explore Metro Parks: Scouters Mountain Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. A nature park plunked down right in the middle of Happy Valley. A short hike, but we can do it as many times as we like.

If we get cold and wet, there’s a New Seasons nearby where we can get warm-up drinks. 2 mi., 700 ft., Drive 19.6, MMC 9 a.m.

SS A Dec 23 (Sat) Twin Lakes Loop Snowshoe Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail.com.

Snowshoe from Frog Lake SnoPark to Lower then Upper Twin Lakes and return. Bring snowshoes, poles, and warm layers. We’ll have a snack break at Lower, and lunch at Upper. Please contact leader if you have questions.

5 mi., 400 ft., Drive 120, SnoPark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH)MU HK B2 Dec 27 (Wed) Pup Creek Falls (Fish Creek) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Pup Creek Falls is one of the few notable waterfalls in the Clackamas

River area that is accessible by trail.

This hike begins at the Fish Creek Trailhead, and then undulates from high steep slopes down to river level and back up the slope again. 8.5 mi., 1300 ft., Drive 80, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(WF,WO) HK A1.5 Dec 30 (Sat) Explore Metro Parks: Graham Oaks Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ juno.com. Come explore a park off the Willamette River in Wilsonville.

Graham Oaks offers a glimpse into oak prairie habitats once common in the Willamette Valley. Easy trails.

There’s a McMenamins nearby if we need to dry out. 3 mi., 200 ft., Drive 46, MMC 9 a.m.

HK A2 Dec 31 (Sun) Laps around Mount Tabor Rick Craycraft 503-6792113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Ring out the year with some exercise! Three miles a lap and we’ll do a maximum of three laps. You can drop out anytime. Dress for the weather and bring resolution. 3 miles per lap mi., 500 (per lap) ft., Drive 0, 9 a.m. Call leader for details.

HK B2 Dec 31 (Sun) Forest Park: Roller Coaster Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. We’ll start at the Newton Road trailhead, hiking downhill to the end of Newton Road, then up the steep BPA Road. Then on to Firelane 12 and “Hole in the Park.” From here it’s downhill to Firelane 15, uphill to the Wildwood Trail, on to Firelane 10 and back to our starting point. 7.6 mi., 800 ft., Drive 25, Gateway 8 a.m.

SS A Jan 01 (Mon) First Monday at Trillium Lake Regis Krug 503704-6442/regis_krug@mentor.com.

Contact leader for gear requirements.

Shake out the New Year’s Eve cobwebs; we’re leaving Gateway at 4 a.m. for the drive to Mt. Hood. We will snowshoe through the woods and over dale to Trillium Lake, just in time for the first sunrise of the year before looping around the lake.

In previous years, it has been a crisp, clear morning in the teens, so be prepared for very cold weather. It will be a moderate pace, so we don’t overheat. Headlamps and snowshoes required. 6 mi., 800 ft., Drive 100, SnoPark, Gateway 4 a.m. (MH)MU SS A Jan 01 (Mon) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe Joe Whittington joewhittington@ gmail.com. What better way to start the year than with a moonlight snowshoe? Full moon with moonrise at 5:40 PM. Snowshoe up White River Canyon with ethereal views of Mt. Hood and the canyon. Need headlight, snowshoes, poles, and warm layers. Please contact leader if you have any questions. 4 mi., 200 ft., Drive 140, SnoPark, Gateway 4 p.m. MU

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required.

Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185– Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed.

Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

DECEMBER 2017 43

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, Dec. 19. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page).

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, November 21. No members chose to speak at the first member comment period.

Motion carried to adopt the minutes of the October meeting. President Kruell then reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. Motion carried. Secretary Keith Campbell reported that current membership is 3,706, marking a net gain of 23 members over this time last year, and the first time that membership has passed the 3,700 mark.

Treasurer Marty Scott reported that at the end of September, total operating revenue for the year is $2,154,970, and total operating expenses are $1,804,477. Total assets are $1,605,592. Revenue is tracking well above budget and expenditures are slightly under budget. Marty noted that the primary sources of income for September were individual donations and grants while October’s expected revenue comes from class registration.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis notified the council that the Portland Alpine Festival was a success, on budget, and attracted a younger crowd. He invited council members to attend a Gorge Fire Event meeting at Edgefield (Nov. 29) and the Classics Luncheon at the MMC (Dec. 8). Lee also noted the closure of the MMC the week between Christmas and New Years. In internal reporting, Lee shared updates on the MMC and Lodge facility improvement projects.

He gave a quick review and status update on annual goals identified at the fall council retreat. Lee ended his internal report with a discussion about the strategic plan dashboard document and requested feedback on the format.

In his external report, Lee focused on the status of advocacy work and future priorities.

Lee and Adam Baylor will be in Salem for meetings during the February Oregon Legislative session to focus on funding and

44 MAZAMAS

policy issues related to the recently created Office of Outdoor Recreation. We are also working with industry partners and search and rescue groups to explore the feasibility of returning helicopter(s) to PDX that could more quickly respond to incidents in the mountains and in the Gorge in particular.

Other items of note from Lee include a report from the Oregon Outdoors coalition meeting, an update on the Gorge Fire trail stewardship meeting, and an upcoming meeting with the Chief of the USFS in DC in December.

In business reports, President Kruell led off with a recap of the fall council retreat.

The consensus was that the retreat was a success. Major topics discussed included the department structure reporting schedule and communication of the strategic plan.

Following a discussion about dates and meeting times, Chris asked for a motion to approve the EC meeting calendar schedule.

The motion passed, and Chris asked that the Bulletin show future council meetings starting at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month with a member comment period at 5:30 p.m.

A discussion of the Board Procedures and Agreements document followed.

Traci Manning noted the Mazamas could improve our current Silver Badge ranking on Guidestar, a leading assessor of nonprofit organizations, with some simple board agreements. She will spearhead the effort for the council to adopt Conflict of Interest and Ethics and Transparency statements and our work towards a more diverse and inclusive board.

Vice President Laura Pigion then gave a project update on the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock. A neighbor to the property has filed an appeal with Deschutes County. A hearing is scheduled for December 18, 2017 with a final decision by February 3, 2018.

Pending the outcome of the appeal, further work on the project is on hold.

Following a short break, Sarah Bradham gave an update on the recent Portland Alpine Festival (PAF). Sarah noted that preliminary numbers show that PAF was a successful, met

budget, and has achieved its five year mission to become an outreach event engaging the broader climbing and outdoor recreation communities in our area. The combination of paid and free events was also well received this year with all weeknight evening events seeing a “sold out” crowd. Attendance at the clinics, seminars, and The Summit were all higher than at last year’s event. The festival this year exceeded all projections and grants given to partner organizations will be significantly higher as a result.

Justin Rotherham was on hand to request approval of Matt Blecharz as the new chair of the Education Committee and to discuss committee goals. Together they presented an initial review of current issues, challenges, and next steps in working to revitalize and structure the Education Committee to reduce volunteer fatigue while addressing the need to increase program capacity.

Noting that stabilizing core education programs is the first and top priority of the new strategic plan, they asked the board to confirm Matt as the committee chair. Also, they asked the board to start a full review of committees rules, policies, and procedures, and to take part in the interview process for the Education Program Coordinator position.

The council endorsed their request.

John Rettig returned to speak with the board and request approval as the new chair of the Governing Documents Committee.

Following the council’s approval, John shared a brief timeline of policies up for review and laid out a tentative plan for council approval of the revised documents.

No members chose to speak at the second member comment period. President Kruell then adjourned the meeting into Executive Session at 5:40 p.m. The meeting adjourned at 6:20 p.m.

The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, December 19, at 4 p.m.

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCH AT MMC

FRIDAY, DEC. 8

Join us for our annual holiday luncheon on Friday, Dec. 8. A $5 donation is requested and be sure you RSVP at tinyurl.com/mazclassicmazamas by Friday, Dec. 1 as this helps us determine how much food to have prepared. Lunch is at 11:30 a.m.

Lee Davis, Mazama Executive Director, will be speaking and we will pass out 25- and 50-year pins.

This year, we have 34 new 25-year members and 15 new 50-year members joining our ranks.

Matthew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager will screen a film at the Holiday Lunch.

Last year we had to reschedule because of weather, but hopefully the weather gods will be on our side this year!

We hope to see all of you new Classics at the Holiday Luncheon, where you will receive your special membership pin!

CLASSIC MAZAMAS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or classics@mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN DECEMBER Those wanting to lead events send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC. The upcoming meeting is Jan. 22. There is no meeting in December.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can contact Flora Huber at classics@mazamas.org or 503-658-5710.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. You don’t have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and state how you can help.

DONATE YOUR WOODEN ICE AXES TO THE MUSEUM A REQUEST FROM VERA DAFOE Dear Classic Mazamas We have a grand collection of wood-shafted ice axes, eminent among others in the world. But there is room for more of these lovely antiques, hearkening to an era of climbing reminiscent of we Classic Mazamas. Please consider donating your wood ice axes to the Museum if you have no further need of them. Or, as we must deal with at times, including them as a gift in your estate. Thereby they will be honored, and the axes will be assured of the care and respect they deserve. –Thank You, Vera Dafoe

DECEMBER 2017 45

SAYING GOODBYE

JIM CRAIG

July 11, 1921–Oct. 25, 2017 Longtime Mazama Jim E. Craig passed away at the age of 96 on October 25, 2017.

A passion for the mountains, both climbing and downhill skiing, defined Jim. He joined the Mazamas in 1954. Over the years he earned every climbing award given out by the Mazamas: Guardian Peaks in 1955, Oregon Cascades in 1957, and 16 Major Northwest Peaks in 1959. In addition, he earned all of the leadership awards beginning with the 5-Point Leadership Award in 1959, 10-Point Award in 1960, and the 15-Point Award in 1961.

He also earned a number of awards that are no longer handed out.

Over a span of 16 years, Jim led more than 80 climbs for the Mazamas. Jim was also a lecturer and instructor for the Mazama Basic Climbing School between 1959 and 1972. In the 1960s, Jim wrote seven articles for the Mazama Annual, including a climbing guide to Mt. Garfield and Leaning Spire, both on the middle 46 MAZAMAS

fork of Washington’s Snoqualmie River.

Jim served on the Climbing Committee in 1958 and 1959, and on the Executive Council between 1961 and 1963. In a 2007 oral history, Jim recalled some of his favorite Mazama memories, including climbing Mt. Rainier with Warren Wilson, Annual Outings with Martha Darcey, and setting off flares atop Mt. Hood to celebrate the dedication of the new Mazama Lodge. “The Mazamas,” Jim said, “is the egg out of which a lot of our [other adventures] developed.”

Besides being a Mazama, Jim was a longtime member of the Iowa Mountaineers and the Swiss Alpine Club.

In 1969, Jim gave a presentation to the Mazamas about his time spent climbing in Europe with the Iowa Mountaineers, where he climbed in the Alps, Dolomites, Switzerland, and finished with the Matterhorn. Jim, along with friends and family, climbed well over 150 peaks and

skied at over 140 areas in the U.S., Canada, and Europe. With his wife Marilyn, Jim traveled the world and hiked whenever possible. Together they studied Spanish in Mexico and Spain and made a point to join the family for camping trips and family reunions. Their favorite spot was at the base of the Matterhorn in Zermatt, Switzerland, where they enjoyed many summer months.

The Mazamas will remember Jim for his easy-going manner, leadership skills, and great climbing stories.

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