2017/2018 Mazama Annual

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Mazama The Annual Journal of the Mazamas Vol. 100, No. 13•2017–2018

Anatomy of a Climbing Accident by Kristie Perry and Darrin Gunkel, p. 14

Family Hiking and Climbing in Germany, Switzerland, & Italy by Keith Daellenbach, p. 51

North Sister: Lessons Learned by Josh Lockerby, p. 18

ICS Spouse Survival Guide by Becky Nelson, p. 54

Eagle Creek Canyon Fire by Mathew Brock, p. 22

Trip Report: Cathedral Peak & Climber Stewards in Yosemite by Adam Baylor, p. 56

The Gorge Will Rise Again by various, p. 26 Mountains and Mentors by Rick Allen, p. 30

Features p. 12–67

Awards P. 74–87

Hikes p. 116–128

Madrone Wall Saved by Keith Daellenbach, p. 33 A History of the Mazamas in 10 Objects by Mathew Brock, p. 45

REPORTS p. 88–95

In memoriam p. 131

Off the Beaten Backpack by Matt Reader, p. 58 A Legacy on the Landscape by Mathew Brock, p. 65 Glacier Phenology by Elizabeth Kimberly, p. 68 Daring to be Lydia by Lias Kostova, p. 70

COMMITTEES p. 96–109

Climbs p. 110–115

Cover: Oregon local Matt Sedor chalks up and patiently reviews the final sections of Trout Creek’s Reservation Blues, 5.12+, photo: Connor O’Brien. Inside front: Camp, photo: Shane O’Hara. Back: Couple near Mt. Hood, photo: Kevin Cowley. © Mazamas® 2022. All rights reserved. 527 SE 43rd, Portland, OR 97215 2017/2018 Mazama Annual 1


mission ▶ The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety, and the protection of mountain environments.

Vision ▶ Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.

2017-2018 Executive Council Chris Kruell, President Laura Pigion, Vice President Keith Campbell, Secretary Marty Scott, Treasurer Preston Corless Stephen Couche Jon Jurevic Darrell Weston

2018-2019 Executive Council Laura Pigion, President Marty Scott, Vice President Laura Guderyahn, Secretary Traci Manning, Treasurer Keith Campbell Preston Corless Judith Baker Joe Eberhardt Robin Wilcox

Mazama Annual production Editors: Sarah Bradham, Jonathan Barrett, Mathew Brock, Rick Craycraft, Raymond Drew, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, Katie Polanshek, and Michael Viscera. Layout & Design: Sarah Bradham, Mathew Brock, and Ali Gray.

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Mazama Values Safety As Mazamas, we believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

Education As Mazamas, we believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

Volunteerism As Mazamas, we believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

Community As Mazamas, we believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

Competence As Mazamas, we believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

Credibility As Mazamas, we believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

Stewardship As Mazamas, we believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

Respect As Mazamas, we believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

Climbers on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Marc Jaso

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Membership Reports 2017

2018

Total membership for 2016

3,582

Total membership for 2017

4,031

Total membership for 2017

4,031

Total membership for 2018

3,481

Regular 2,242

Regular 1,836

Life member (50+ years of membership)

Life member (50+ years of membership)

244

222

Life member (paid) 13

Life member (paid) 13

Senior (60+ years old with 5 years of membership) 1,020

Senior (60+ years old with 5 years of membership) 919

Youth (under 18, living at home)

Youth (under 18, living at home)

37

36

Spouse of member 319

Spouse of member 271

Resides outside OR or WA

Resides outside OR or WA

122

76

Student 3

Student 17

Honorary 16

BCEP student (current year)

Comp 15

Honorary 16

53

Comp 22

Photo: Angela Bohlke

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Mazama President’s

2018 Annual Report by Chris Kruell

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his year, 2018, was the first year of our new strategic plan. Our goals were very ambitious. Last October, we gave our Executive Director and staff a large slate of specific goals relating to keeping operations running strong, increasing Mazama engagement with the broader community through outreach, advocacy, and development work, finishing the IT project, launching our new strategic plan, and working to increase total support for the Mazamas. And while this year had its challenges, I’m pleased to report that to a large degree our staff, with continued support from all of you as committee chairs, met these goals. Our education and activity programs, as well as our youth programs, ran well this year, and yet again we were faced with far more interest than we could accommodate in most of our classes and most of our climbs. Thanks to all of the leaders and volunteers that helped make these programs happen. We launched the Oregon Outdoors Coalition with strong support from key partners in conservation, the outdoor industry, and other responsible recreation groups. And Oregon now has a State Director of Recreation thanks in no small part to the Mazamas. Mathew Brock did a fantastic job of increasing the quality and consistency of storytelling this year by digging out countless photos and information to share with our members in print and in social media. And we hired Erica Stock as our new Development Director. Clearly, the biggest news is that the IT project has been completed, enabling everyone to find, register for, and be recognized for everything they do at the Mazamas. As you know, I’m a climb leader, a BCEP leader, a longtime volunteer, and like many of our volunteers, the IT system changes meant that I had to learn a new way of setting up a class and a climb this year. I want to thank all of our leaders who dug in and learned how to do things using the new system. Like many things, the hardest part was getting started—and I can say with confidence that it was worth the effort. I want to especially thank Sarah Bradham for her work this year. The Mazamas executed the IT system project over the

last few years under her leadership. The project was completed effectively on time and on budget—which is almost unheard of in IT system projects. She made training videos for leaders, took calls and emails, and answered questions on the weekends and late at night for months. The site is beautiful, the system works, and the Mazamas is now in the 21st century thanks to her efforts. Thank you, Sarah! I’d like to close with a few more thank yous and acknowledgments. Working with my fellow members of the Executive Council has been great this year. We got a lot done. Thank you to our departing EC members: Darrell Weston and Jon Jurevic for their service these last few years. Thank you to our continuing board officers: Laura Pigion for serving as Vice President, Marty Scott for serving as Treasurer, and both Keith Campbell and Traci Manning for serving as Secretary during the year. Thank you to our staff: Lee Davis, Sarah Bradham, Adam Baylor, Justin Rotherham, Claire Nelson, Erica Stock, Laura Burger, Mathew Brock, Renee Fitzpatrick, Kelsey Shaw, John Barkhausan, Molly Mosenthal, and Rick Craycraft, as well as Charles Barker up at the Lodge. And of course, I want to thank our volunteers. Many of our members volunteered their time to the Mazamas this year to help us pursue our mission, to introduce new people to the mountains, to teach them to appreciate the mountains, and to understand that we need to protect them. Thank you all.

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Executive Director’s

2017 Annual Report by Lee Davis

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he Mazamas was founded in 1894 on the summit of Mt. Hood by the leaders of Oregon—people we all know of like Pittock, Glisan, Northrup, and William Steele. These leaders were volunteers, like all of us, who were inspired by the exploration and research the Alpine Club in Britain was doing in the Alps. Our founders were leaders in mapping the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, and they were leaders in advocating for protecting and conserving public lands through projects like the Cascade Forest Reserve and the creation of Crater Lake National Park. We at the Mazamas hold a 123-year legacy of promoting mountaineering, outdoor education, and conservation values throughout the Northwest, and each of you is a part of that legacy. Like many of you, I got my start at the Mazamas through taking BCEP, and being inspired by and assisting volunteer leaders like David Wedge, Wendy Carlton, Keith Mischke, Gary Beck, and Ed Holt. Years before I was hired by Peggie [Schwarz] to come work for the Mazamas, these leaders encouraged me to volunteer my time, to become a climb and outings leader, and to serve on administrative committees. At the Mazamas, we know that volunteering changes lives, and we see every year how shared experiences in the mountains build lifelong friendships, lasting memories, and a strong community. In the last few years, at the direction of our Executive Council, we’ve invested heavily in building new database and IT systems, we’ve invested in development, and with new philanthropic support have been able to launch youth and family programs that together are getting more than 700 kids per year outside.

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We’ve invested in regaining our regional leadership role through policy and advocacy work. What we are finding in DC, Salem, and Olympia is that the voice of the Mazamas gets the attention of legislators and agency officials on both sides of the aisle. Last year we helped to lift a 25-year moratorium on outfitting permits on Mt. Hood, and we worked with Senator Wyden on his Recreation Not Red Tape Act that will help to streamline passes and permits and make it easier for you to get outside. More recently, we have been working to create a state-level leadership position to represent the interests and benefits of outdoor recreation in Oregon and to ensure that going forward outdoor recreation is a must-have value, not a wish list item for our lawmakers. We’ve been able to do all of this work specifically because of all of you. The reason the voice of the Mazamas matters is because we genuinely know and can authentically communicate the transformative power of shared experiences in the outdoors. We know and can easily share stories of how spending time in the mountains and outside can

improve people’s physical and mental health, their engagement with their community, their interest in learning, and their understanding and commitment to conservation values—and that matters. It is because of you that we have been asked to represent the voices of climbers, hikers, skiers, and human-powered recreation in our state, in our region, and in DC. It is because of your skills and your dedication to Mazama values that MESD and Friends of Outdoor School entrusted us to develop Oregon’s only snow-based outdoor school program for fifth and sixth graders. The Mazamas are many things to many people, and together we are powerful and can make a difference in our community. I can’t thank you enough for your service to the Mazamas, but I can say that our founders would be proud of who we are today because of your leadership, your dedication, and your passion for sharing the values and benefits of playing in and protecting the mountains.


Executive Director’s

2018 Annual Report by Lee Davis

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n this very place—Portland, Oregon, 124 years ago—an idea for an Alpine Club of the Pacific Northwest became a reality, inspired by the mountains we can see every day from our homes, our offices, and our commutes. And inspired by his fascination with the mountains, William Gladstone Steele, our founder, was told to have a “missionary zeal for teaching city dwellers to love the mountains.”

Inspired by the mountain lake that sits in the crater of a volcano in southern Oregon, our founders took long, slow trains to Washington, DC to lobby and advocate for creating Oregon’s first and only national park, conserving this incredible place for everyone to experience for perpetuity. They spent decades organizing outings to research, map, and explore the mountains of the Northwest. Inspired by our love of teaching mountaineering in the mountains in the 1940s, our community changed to create new educational classes to teach hundreds of people how to safely climb Mt. Hood. In the 1950s, our basic climbing classes had nearly three times the number of students that we have today. Inspired by our love of skiing in the mountains in the 1950s, our community changed and started building ski lodges on Mt. Hood, eventually settling above Government Camp, with our own small ski slope and rope tow out back. Our members

created backcountry and Nordic ski trails all over the mountains by exploring the hills on skis with little bags of nails, trail signs, a hammer, and a small saw to clear branches away. Inspired by our love of the mountains, in the 1970s, when we and so much of America were concerned with the onslaught of industrial development and resource extraction on our public lands and its impact on habitat, we changed again and hired a contract lobbyist named Mike McCloskey to advocate for wilderness protection in the Northwest. Mike later went on to run the Sierra Club and is known to many as the father of the Wilderness Act. We at the Mazamas have been inspired by the mountains since 1894. Through that time, we have changed and evolved, sometimes focused on advocacy and conservation, sometimes on building lodges and skiing, and yet through it all, just like our founder William Steel, we

all have been working all these years to inspire everyone to love and care for the mountains. The Mazamas hold a 124-year legacy of advocating, teaching, and reaching out to our community to share our love of the mountains with everyone, and you are a part of that legacy. At the Mazamas, we know that volunteering changes lives. We see every year how shared experiences in the mountains build lifelong friendships, lasting memories, and a strong community. The Mazamas is many things to many people, and together we are powerful and can make a difference in our community. I can’t thank you enough for your service to the Mazamas, but I can say that our founders would be proud of who we are today because of your leadership, your dedication, and your passion for sharing the values and benefits of playing in and protecting the mountains.

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2018 Treasurer’s Report by Marty Scott This fiscal year was marked by strong initial efforts to execute the first year of our strategic plan as well as finishing the IT project from the previous year. In August and September of last year, we ratified a new strategic plan for the Mazamas and worked with the Mazamas Foundation to negotiate a second-round impact investment to fund that plan. The result was a three-year $950K grant agreement to fund our most important strategic priorities, and the 2017–18 fiscal year was the beginning of that grant period. The budget we set for this first year of our strategic plan was very aggressive, and while revenue came in significantly under budget, expenses were managed in line with those revenues and overall we are projecting to come in slightly under our net budget for the 2017–18 fiscal year. Expenses were managed well, and even though revenues were down this year we got a lot done. Earned revenue from memberships, classes, activities, and events came in at roughly $825K, and fundraising and grants,

Photo: Britt Hoover

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including individual donations, corporate support, pledges, and estate gifts, are projected to come in at $309K. Separate from estate gifts, individual donor support continues to grow and is now a consistently important segment of our annual revenue. This support takes the form of individual donations to the annual fund and major strategic initiatives including youth, stewardship, and our historical collections. Support from the outdoor industry and our nonprofit partners continues to grow significantly, as well. We started this fiscal year with a planned deficit budget because we recognized the income for the entire 3-year strategic plan grant last year. The 2017–18 fiscal year budget planned for $1,561,000 in accrued revenue and $2,211,000 in total expenses. Our planned net for the year was negative (-$650,000), which represented our plan to use $550K of the funds granted by the Foundation and a reduction from the depreciation of assets and the value of the lease on the MMC of

roughly $100,000. Current projections for the end of the fiscal year are that we will see just $1,131,000 in accrued revenue and $1,769,000 in total accrued expenses, which means ending the year at -$638K, or two percent better than budget. Revenues and total financial support for the Mazamas continue to diversify, which we believe will help to stabilize the Mazamas financially in the years and decades to come. By adding youth and advocacy programs and keeping the Mazamas focused on our mission, we are confident that philanthropic support for the Mazamas will grow to be an important part of how we operate. Next year, we are planning a cash positive year, but from an accrual perspective are again planning a large deficit year due to a large number of capital expenses including renovations at the Mazama Lodge and ongoing investments in our upcoming strategic plan that were funded last fiscal year.


Mazama Library Reports 2017

2018

by Mathew Brock

by Mathew Brock

The Mazama Library and Historical Collections serves the membership and the public by maintaining an 8,000-volume library of new and historic hiking and climbing guides and mountaineering literature. The historical collections contain 500 linear feet of manuscripts, photographs, and institutional records. Comprised of roughly 5,000 items, the artifact collection includes many one of a kind objects. The library loans out climbing and mountaineering related DVDs and topo maps, and maintains a growing collection of reference guidebooks, periodicals, and mountaineering publications from around the world. Be sure to follow the Mazamas on social media to see images and objects from the collections. Together, the Library and Historical Collections provide members, researchers, and climbers access to hundreds of unique documents and artifacts from Mazama and Pacific Northwest history. This past year, the Mazama Library realized a significant milestone. The 2011 membership survey identified that 79 percent of Mazamas wanted an online library catalog. On June 1, 2017, the Mazama Library launched its new online catalog. Those of you that have followed along know that many, many months of work went into the rollout of the new catalog system. A big thank you to all the library volunteers who worked to help make this happen! If you haven’t yet, be sure to check out the new catalog by visiting www.mazamalibrary.org. The catalog is already helping improve access to and use of the Mazama Library. Circulation is up 34 percent over this time last year. Library staff assisted with reference requests from members, staff, and the interested public. Library volunteers gave generously of their time adding new titles to the library, assisting with circulation, processing donations, and helping to develop and enrich our collection catalog. Donations of books, manuscripts, photographs, or climbing gear are gladly accepted. Tours of the Library and Historical Collections are happily given, please contact the library to schedule a time. Remember, it’s yours to use!

This past year, library volunteers gave over 400 hours of their time helping to catalog and shelve books, process collections, and improve access to the collections. In July, a team of a dozen volunteers helped complete the first comprehensive inventory of the circulating collection in over a decade. An inventory of the rare book collection is currently underway. This past year showed continued increases in the use of the library with over 735 books checked out by over 230 members, including over 80 new users. A high point came in June, when the library broke a circulation record and I’m happy to report that while that was a high point, use of the library continues to trend up. The archives took in 58 new accessions. Some highlights include two photograph albums from longtime member and past president John Clark Rhodes. The photo albums contain, among other things, images of the construction of the old Mazama log lodge and some rare images from inside. Also included are images from several annual outings that were not represented in the collection. Other notable additions include several woodhandled ice axes and a collection of glass lantern slides. I’d like to thank the following library volunteers for their many hours of hard work: Maggie Tomberlin, Eric Hall, Lis Cooper, Doug Couch, Ken Debois, Dennis Olmstead, Maureen Harrahall, Bob Lockerby, and Jeff Thomas. The library would not be what it is without their many hours of work, and I couldn’t do my job without them. Thank you. ▶ 2018 by the numbers: ▶ Volunteer hours: 400 ▶ Books checked out: 714 ▶ Members using the library: 233 ▶ New users added this year: 82 ▶ Accessions added to the archives: 58 ▶ New and used titles added to the library: 250

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Features

Oregon Cascades. Photo: Daniel Sherman

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Anatomy of a Climbing Accident by Kristie Perry and Darrin Gunkel

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t’s a dangerous sport, mountaineering. By some accounts, the most dangerous. The majority of Mazama climbs, though, proceed without incident. Rack that up to leader and assistant (and frequently, team member) experience, a strong safety ethic born of respect, and world-class training. Those are also the reasons why when things did go wrong for climb leader Josh Lockerby’s team on North Sister last August, the story played out as well as anyone could hope. First climbed in the mid-1920s, North Sister is known as “The Black Beast of the Cascades.” It’s also the quintessential slag heap of the Cascades: “It’s a pile of kitty litter, loose andesite. The only solid rock is on the summit,” says Lockerby. He adds that most people only lead North Sister once or twice. He’s been to the summit eight times, his first time in 1986 with Jack Grauer. This time around, it was a warm and muggy August weekend, and the team wasn’t daunted by a chance of thunderstorms in the forecast. It was an overnight trip involving a five-mile trek to base camp and an early bedtime. The

getting up to base camp at 7,100 feet on the moraine just below Hayden Glacier. It was a physically strong group with a mixed skill set. Someone asked why there weren’t more women on the climb. “I don’t gender balance,” says Lockerby, “I skill-balance. If you have a lot of weak people, it’s hard on the strong people. If you have a lot of strong people, it’s boring.” A few thunderstorms did roll through on the approach and later that evening. Nothing bad enough to call off the climb, but the team decided to push up the start, according to one member (and climb leader in his own right), Andrew Bodien, to improve chances of making the summit

What I walked over probably thousands of people had walked on. But this time, the rock just gave way. I started sliding. This rock was moving on my right side and it looked formidable. I was sliding uncontrollably until I came to a stop about 10–15 feet below. I had my right arm extended behind me to brace myself. Then that rock landed on my arm. I yelled something to the effect of “I’m pinned!” next morning, a wee-hours alpine start would put the team in good position to make the 10,005-foot summit and the long slog back to Pole Creek Trailhead in time to head to nearby Sisters, Oregon to celebrate. The team took their time

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before any afternoon weather might roll in and make things hairy. The weather didn’t bother team member Andy Nuttbrock. “I was feeling good,” he said. “Everything was going as planned and moving along. The thunder and lightning was a nice twist on

the first day and the night before the climb. I had not experienced that kind of weather on that climb to date. It was a good, fun time on the way up.” The climb went routinely. “Just usual conditions: slogging on loose crap, some trail, some snow up to 9,500 feet. Pile moraine, then you gain the top of the moraine on dirt trail. Snow was just soft enough we didn’t need crampons,” says Lockerby. After making the saddle between North and Middle Sister, the team headed up a ridge, the first half a scree slog of the worst kind: loose and abrasive. After that, things settled down, until the Terrible Traverse: a 45- to 70-degree snow slope. The team tackled it in the usual manner: straight across with a running belay. The plan was to move fast and light across the traverse, up the Bowling Alley beyond, and to the summit. The team dropped their packs but made sure to bring two first aid kits. Linda Mann led the traverse. She slid at one point where it got really steep, but Lockerby, on belay, caught her. “It wasn’t a big deal,” he says, “she’s like 100 pounds.” So he kicked in steps down to a shallower place. Safely past the Terrible Traverse, Lockerby and team member Andy Nuttbrock set up a rope through the Bowling Alley, a chimney that climbs up towards North Sister’s summit block. They put a hand line up the summit block itself, and everyone made it to the top by 10 a.m. Assistant leader Alex Lockard, an experienced rock climber, led people down. Lockerby stayed back to belay Nuttbrock, who cleaned the summit. Lockard, Bodien, Nuttbrock, Matt Krueger, Walker McAninch, Whitney Lindhall, and Lockerby were all staged there waiting for


Black Hawk over Broken Top. the climbers below to get off the rope at the bottom of the Bowling Alley. It was 10:45 a.m. Lockerby tells what happened next: “Where I was standing is notorious for having a lot of loose rock. The first time I climbed it with Jack Grauer, he called the rock tombstone. It’s a pile of loose dirt with boulders lodged in it. What I walked over probably thousands of people had walked on. But this time, the rock just gave way. I started sliding. It happened so quickly. This rock was moving on my right side and it looked formidable, that I knew I didn’t want to tangle with. I was sliding uncontrollably until I came to a stop about 10–15 feet below. I had my right arm extended behind me to brace myself. Then that rock landed on my arm. I yelled something to the effect of ‘I’m pinned! I’m stuck!’ This rock was the size of a laundry basket, and about 250–300 pounds. Two people helped lift the rock up and I pulled my arm out. “I’m pretty sure I was scared. I wasn’t

freaking out, I was concentrating on getting away from the rock. “I had some relief that it wasn’t any worse. And a feeling of disbelief. I didn’t think anything like this would happen to me. I wondered what my wife would think. I couldn’t remember learning anything about this in MFA (Mountaineering First Aid course). I tried to lift my arm and I couldn’t. I wanted to get my shirt off because I needed to check for blood. The team didn’t want me to do that because they knew it was broken. That was my one stubborn moment. There was no bleeding, just a couple of scrapes, a little road rash. “Thank God we had those two first aid kits. We used Alex’s folding sit pad as a splint. Walker gave his light jacket to use as a wrap. Someone had a triangular bandage to sling it up. “About the time they were setting the sling, the team started wondering about shock. I was most concerned about whether my wife was going to ground me

from climbing ever again, so I knew I was gonna be OK. Still experiencing pain and disbelief, I knew I was done leading that trip, and I knew I had to acknowledge that to the group. “So I asked Andrew to lead the team down. Alex could have done it. He has enough technical know-how. I figured Andrew knew more of the logistics. This wasn’t an issue. The rest of the team had already begun discussing this. And they just needed me to say something. I knew the team as a whole had to put out a different effort now. I told ‘em I’ll speak up if I need to, but you guys are in charge. I know you’ll look out for my safety.” The team let the three members who’d already made it down the pitch know what was going on. Bodien decided to call 911 and the Mazamas immediately, and that made a big difference. “The feedback we got from search and rescue was that we

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Accident, continued from previous page

On the ascent, where Josh thought they were past the crappy part of the climb. Photo: Gary Riggs

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did the right thing by calling 911 right away,” says Bodien. “In their experience, people wait until they get themselves into a worse situation, then they call 911. By calling when we did, we gave them time to make a good decision whether or not they were going to respond.” It was time to get moving again. McAninch and Lindhall descended first. Nuttbrock built an anchor and belayed Lockerby down, partly climbing, partly being lowered. Krueger climbed down below Josh to point out good footholds. “I was trying to stay calm,” Lockerby said. “The worst thing I could do is act crazy. I’ve done enough first aid training to know no one wants a crazy patient. I kind of felt like we had this bad situation, but I just thought let’s embrace this and make the best of it.” The next big challenge was getting back across the Terrible Traverse on running belay. They made the move in two teams. The first, the heaviest climbers, put Lockerby in the middle with Krueger, who helped clip him through. Lockerby was able to use his ice axe for a self-belay. The snow was starting to set and the second rope team had a harder time getting across. It was about 1 p.m. when they got to the end of the snowfield, two hours


since the fall. The first rescue helicopter spotted the group as Lockerby finished the traverse. It landed 1,300 feet below the climbers to drop off two members of the SAR team. The helicopter returned and dropped off two more rescuers as the second rope team was packing away their harnesses and crampons. They began to descend the ridge towards the rescuers. “We never thought to short rope,” says Lockerby, “but I was comfortable going at a reserved pace. Lesson here is that while the pain was relevant, it only slowed my pace. It did not stop it.” Around 2 p.m., they met the first two rescuers climbing up towards them. SAR conducted an exam, complimented the team on their splinting job, and expressed concerned about swelling in Lockerby’s broken arm. This could indicate “compartment syndrome,” a loss of circulation to the extremities that can eventually result in amputation, so they decided to evacuate Lockerby by helicopter, and Bodien led most of the Mazama team back to base camp via the route they’d ascended. The rescuers, Nuttbrock, Krueger, and Lockerby made their way down the southeast ridge. Lockerby explains their decision: “I was not expecting to go down this way, but the search and rescue folks were the experts here. I was short-roped for some additional protection. This route had some third-class rock and I had to be belayed a couple of times (good thing I left the harness on). The weather was changing. It remained fairly clear with smoke, but the wind picked up. There was no safe way for a helicopter to extract me off the relatively narrow section of the ridge (which extended from 7,800 feet to the summit). There was some doubt it would be possible down lower where a helicopter

could land because they don’t land in the dark. At one point I was told horses could be an option, but I would rather have walked all the way out. My pain was always present, but was tolerable in the sling. It seemed to hurt less when I was traveling versus staying put. I think it was because I was focused on my balance as I descended. As it turned out, we made it to a flat area at 7,800 feet at around 7:15 p.m. About 15 minutes after we got to the landing zone, the helicopter arrived. We took off with two of the search and rescue guys and I was transported to St. Charles Hospital in Bend.” The next day, the team went to visit Lockerby in the hospital and get the lowdown on his injuries: a broken ulna and dislocated elbow. He spent two nights in the hospital, but the prognosis was good: “I totally want to climb up there and spit on the rock,” he said. “It’s too early to tell when I’ll be able to climb again. I’ll probably be able to lead BCEP again in the spring.” Later, in response to his request for feedback and GPS tracks of the rescue, Lockerby got an email from Deschutes County Search and Rescue. Aside from scolding him for using an old helmet, and some grousing about the size of the team (they feel it’s safer to go in smaller groups), the response was positive. The team called for help early enough that SAR could respond easily. They made it out of the hairiest spots on their own. And they had a good attitude: “They’ve experienced groups completely checking out once SAR took over. But our team, they said, continued to get things done. They remarked we were really trained to be in the mountains and knew what to do,” says Lockerby. “It’s our story, not just my story. I was the patient, but the team was the victim. This had an impact on everyone, a fairly positive one in the end.”

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North Sister: Lessons learned A summary of the incident on North Sister on August 12, 2017 by Josh Lockerby Editor’s note: The information provided here is from the perspective of those who were participants on the climb. It is possible that inconsistent information from other accounts may differ. It is my opinion that the authors of those accounts were sincere and any discrepancy is related to accidental misinformation or some other personal perspective. The intent of this article is to detail out the incident on North Sister, how it was managed, and what can be learned.

Before the Climb

A team of 12 was arranged. There was one cancellation who was replaced. Weather forecast was a chance of thunderstorms during the afternoon and evenings on August 10 and 11. Drive up to trailhead was fine. Smoky air was present.

At the Trailhead

Weather was warm. It had rained the night before. The alternate climber in the team had second thoughts on the trip and had decided to cancel. While nobody likes to see this happen, I personally have been in the same position and decided to “follow my gut.” The science on this is not clear to me, but I sometimes wonder if this was more than a coincidence. Nonetheless, the rest of the team went in. While the weather did not look it at the time, I expected precipitation before the day was done.

Approach to Camp

We took off after 9 a.m. As expected, showers were encountered. We took an extended break under the trees since there was no hurry. We arrived at camp at 7,200 feet around 2 p.m.

Night before the Climb

Very casual. Thunderstorms popped up

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to the east. We had very light precipitation. I went to bed at dusk. At around 12:30 a.m. there was some lightning and a shower that lasted for 15 minutes or so. At 2 a.m. (wake-up), we had 75 percent overcast.

Climb to Snow Traverse

We set out at 3 a.m. under 10 percent overcast. Hike up the mountain was routine. We arrived at the traverse at around 7 a.m. Weather was good. Some smoke.

Snow Traverse to Summit

Someone mentioned that recent beta suggested the moat on top of the traverse was doable. Linda checked it out, but it was decided the traditional running belay across the snow would be executed instead. I made sure there was at least two first aid kits going to the summit. I had Linda, an Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) grad, lead across. I was the second. There was a slip at a the steepest section of the traverse. Linda continued across a shallower slope 10 feet below. I kicked in steps at the slip for the rest of the team. Andy (third on the first rope team) and I headed up to set up a handline at the top of the Bowling Alley. I stayed to monitor the team going up while Andy set up a summit handline using the rope from the second

rope team. We all made the summit a little after 10 a.m. The team started down. Andy and I cleaned the summit pitch. Above the Bowling Alley pitch Alex, Andrew, Andy, Matt, Walker, and Whitney were waiting to go down. I think I was discussing logistics with Alex (the assistant).

The Injury

It was about 10:45 a.m. I was standing up-slope from the rock anchor when the ground beneath me gave way with an approximately 250-pound rock. My memory is fuzzy here since it occurred over the course of seconds. It seemed I was sliding/shuffling while the rock was tumbling and I was doing my best to keep moving forward down the slope (same vector as the rock). I was not able to move to the side. I came to a stop first with my legs down the slope, torso up, and my right arm behind (I don’t remember where my left arm was) with the palm facing down, when an instant later the rock came to rest on my arm, pulling my torso down to the ground … I did yell. I was also stuck.

First Aid

I believe two people lifted the rock up so I could pull my arm out. I was in pain and it was very painful to lift my arm by itself. Without inspection, I remember


Climb team on the hike in. someone saying it was broken despite no bleeding and the arm still being covered by my clothes. Given the mechanism of injury I would have thought the same. Still, some clothes were removed to expose the arm and it was wrapped in a light jacket, splinted with a sitting pad, and slung with a triangular bandage. I don’t remember a secondary survey being done. I certainly did not think to do it. Having gotten past the initial shock of the incident the team’s situation began to sink in. I asked Andrew to take over the team. Normally, it would have been the assistant (Alex) and he would have done fine. But, I knew there was going to be plenty for everyone to do and Andrew had more experience. I knew I was now the patient, had to focus more on myself, and trusted the rest of the team. I told Walker to let the rest of the team below the Bowling Alley pitch know of what happened.

Descent to below the Traverse

With the pain I had (about 4–5), I felt I could climb down assisted. The Bowling Alley rock pitch had a fixed line already installed. Alex had the other rope, and set up a top rope belay for me, and I down climbed on a firm belay. Matt went down the fixed line and spotted my footing. Halfway down, there was a slung boulder where I had Matt clip a locking carabiner to serve as a redirect to prevent swinging in the event of me falling. I got down to the anchor at the bottom of the pitch

and clipped in. Andy came down and belayed me out of the Bowling Alley as a precaution. Andrew and Alex cleaned the rock pitch. When I got to the snow traverse, Terry had scouted the moat. He made it, but suggested the snow pitch for me. Linda helped put on my crampons. A six-person team was set up with Matt and me about 3 feet apart in the middle and 2 larger people staggered on both ends of the rope. Fortunately, uphill was on the left so self-belay was realistic. Matt clipped through the pickets for me. I got across at about 1 p.m. The helicopter transporting the first two search and rescue folks flew by and off-loaded them about 1,300 feet below our position. After the second rope team came across, gear was rearranged and my pack was distributed. My harness was left on. Before we started down, the same helicopter returned with two additional rescuers. We started down. Suresh was in front and Matt was behind for assistance. We never thought to short rope, but I was comfortable going at a reserved pace. Lesson here is that while the pain was relevant, it only slowed my pace. It did not stop it.

Meet-up with Search and Rescue

We caught up with the first two rescuers at around 2:30 p.m. I was checked out and the other two arrived sometime later. They had positive comments on the first aid given so far as well as on our initiative

to call early and descend to them. One of the rescuers noted my vintage helmet and its condition. Apparently, some of the straps had come detached from the shell. I don’t recall getting hit in the head and looking at photos taken earlier in the day as well as photos taken from a climb one month earlier, the helmet failure occurred sometime in between and was not related to the accident ( for shame, Josh). One of the rescuers checked out the splint. He thought we did a good job with it. He also did a quick secondary survey. I was given ibuprofen and acetaminophen. There was a slight mishap with the re-assembly of the splint, however. The sling was arranged such that it was dependent on a safety pin. I thought about speaking up (and should have). Ten minutes later, I learned my lesson when I let out a painful moan after it failed. Anyway, it was a mistake that I believe everyone on the scene will remember. The rescuers were concerned about compartment syndrome (I had to look up later what that was) and felt a helicopter rescue was preferred. It was decided to split up because the rescue folks preferred to go down the SE Ridge. They did not want me to travel on snow and there were better extraction points going down that way. Andy and Matt accompanied to assist the rescuers. The rest of the team was deemed fit to descend the scheduled route on their own.

Descent of the Climb Team

Alex and Andy took the team down. As expected, they descended at a faster rate over a longer distance then I did. I spotted them leaving camp at around 6–6:30 p.m. from the SE Ridge.

Descent of The Patient

I was not expecting to go down this way, but the search and rescue folks were the experts here. I was short-roped for some additional protection. This route had some third class rock and I had to be belayed a couple of times (good thing I left the harness on). The weather was changing. It remained fairly clear with smoke, but the wind picked up. There was no safe way for a helicopter to extract me off the relatively narrow section of the ridge (which extended from 7,800 feet to the summit). There was some doubt that it would be possible down lower where a helicopter could land because they don’t land in the dark. At one point I was told horses could

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Lessons, continued from previous page be an option, but I would rather have walked all the way out. My pain was always present, but was tolerable in the sling. It seemed to hurt less when I was traveling versus staying put. I think it was because I was focused on my balance as I descended. As it turned out, we made it to a flat area at 7,800 feet at around 7:15 p.m.

Helicopter Transport

About 15 minutes after we got to the landing zone, the helicopter arrived. We took off with two of the search and rescue guys and I was transported to St. Charles Hospital in Bend.

Hospital

I was X-rayed and it was confirmed that my ulna was broken. I had surgery the next day and was discharged a day later.

Lessons Learned ▶ Regarding the accident itself, I felt there was no flagrant cause. The rock was ready to give with a push and yet there was no indication that that was the case. I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. ▶ This was the kind of climb where not all packs need to go to the summit. I was sure glad when I insisted at least two first aid kits go, however. ▶ This was my first time as a patient in a serious injury, so it is hard to compare, but I knew that my role as a leader on this trip was then very limited. I feel that it is very important to understand that. For anyone in an injury situation, as soon as the situation is stable take a deep breath and contemplate your situation and the abilities of those around you. And then trust them to baby you. It will make it all less sucky. ▶ In general Mazama training works! The team had plenty of skill. In this case, we all could have descended together. We were ready for that—I appreciated the airlift, however. ▶ Call for help as early as possible. We were complimented on this. It was one of the reasons I got out as quick as I did. ▶ An early start helped. Not just on the whole trip, but a later start may have resulted in an even longer trip since the snow field we went across was starting to soften. ▶ If the team feels capable of self-rescue, then do it! This is a sort of subjective statement, but if the team was capable, the weather was cooperating, and I was willing, then that too would have saved a lot of time. We could have lost 3-5 hours if we just sat there waiting for rescuers. ▶ Some rescue skills the Mazamas could easily teach include short roping on dry steep terrain and pendulum belays. Neither really requires an anchor. Rather, it would be to help keep a moving but disabled climber from further harm. ▶ The rescuers involved were a great bunch. They were professional but seemed to have a good time if the situation allowed.

Top: Heading up the Bowling Alley. Bottom: On the descent, after splinting in the Bowling Alley. Photos: Gary Riggs

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Flowers on the Oregon Coast Photo: Kyla Olge

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Eagle Creek Canyon Fire by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections

O

n September 2, 2017, a 15-year-old boy threw a smoking firecracker into Eagle Creek Canyon. The boy’s senseless act set in motion a chain of events leading to a wildfire that burnt 50,000 acres in the Columbia River Gorge, caused the evacuation of over 400 people, closed 20 miles of Interstate 84 for three weeks, and cost more than $38 million to contain and extinguish. The fire was not declared contained until the end of November, and patches would continue smoldering into the new year.

The fire closed many trails beloved by the Mazamas including Angel’s Rest, Eagle Creek, Larch Mountain, Multnomah Falls, Table Mountain, and a dozen more. In all, more than 140 miles of trails between Bridal Veil Falls and Starvation Creek Falls remain closed. The burned area represents a sixth of the National Scenic Area. Fires in the Columbia River Gorge are nothing new. In 1902, two massive fires ravaged the Gorge. The Yacolt Burn devastated miles of forest on the Washington side from Silver Star Mountain eastward. Another began east of Multnomah Falls and burned the communities of Palmer and Brower on the mountainsides south of Bridal Veil Falls. In 1991, fire again erupted near Multnomah Falls and burned 3,200 acres. By the morning of September 3, 2017, the Eagle Creek Fire had grown to 3,000 acres. The fire trapped 150 hikers and forced them to stay overnight on the Eagle Creek Trail near Punch Bowl Falls. The steep terrain and high winds foiled attempts to airlift supplies and evacuate the children among the group. The hikers, who hours before were enjoying a hot summer day hike, huddled together for warmth. Many tried to sleep on the ground as the sky above them glowed red and the air filled with smoke. Members from local search and rescue teams escorted the hikers out the following morning. Two days later,

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the fire jumped the Columbia River into Washington State, landing near Archer Mountain. The community of Cascade Locks was the first to receive mandatory evacuation orders. The fire threatened 283 structures, including 15 businesses, and forced the salmon hatchery at Cascade Locks to release 600,000 fish prematurely. The fire also threatened 1930s era historic structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, including those in the Eagle Creek Day Use Area. The Multnomah Falls Lodge was saved, to the relief of many. Fire crews, with the help of five tenders and four engines, kept the fire away from the Lodge. Even with that effort the fire still managed to burn the lower bridge at the falls. The fire destroyed both the men and women’s dormitories at the Trails Club of Oregon’s Nesika Lodge but spared the Lodge itself. By September 5, the communities of Latourell, Bridal Veil, Dobson, Warrendale, East Corbett, and those living near Larch Mountain were under mandatory

evacuation orders. Authorities also issued mandatory evacuation orders for people living along Archer Mountain, Smith Crops, and Deville Roads. Early on September 6, the Eagle Creek Fire merged with the Indian Creek Fire and grew to 31,000 acres. The combined fires, coupled with westward blowing winds, blew smoke and ash into the Portland metro area between September 4 and September 17, when rain cleared the skies. The smoke closed schools and canceled outdoor activities across the region. The fire closed many trails beloved by the Mazamas including Angel’s Rest, Eagle Creek, Larch Mountain, Multnomah Falls, Table Mountain, and a dozen more. In all, more than 140 miles of trails between Bridal Veil Falls and Starvation Creek Falls remain closed. The burned area represents a sixth of the National Scenic Area. The fire burned in what is known as a mosaic effect. Rather than burning whole areas of the forest, the fire was scattered among only a few patches of trees here and there. The result is a patchwork of burnt areas distributed among areas of singed yellow trees and untouched greenery. The fire increased the likelihood of landslides within the Gorge. The Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries generated a map showing 286 potential landslide locations. The lack of greenery, particularly on steep slopes, means there


Like Hell on Earth, Eagle Creek Fire. Photo: Dylan Taylor

are not sufficient root systems in place to hold the soil together. Winter rains and snow will only increase the potential for landslides. The Burned Area Emergency Response Team of the United States Forest Service created a burn severity map. Ranked from high to low severity, the map documents the soil’s ability to regenerate vegetation. The map illustrates that much of the areas ranked as high severity are on the ridgetops of Ruckel Ridge and Tanner Butte. Much of the lower elevation burned areas

rated as low severity, and while some younger trees in this area will die, the older, established trees will survive. To offset the potential for landslides, the Oregon Department of Transportation mulched over 1,000 hazard trees and spread them on the roadsides to slow erosion. By late 2017, most of the trails in the Eagle Creek burn area remained closed to the public. The risk to public safety was too high to allow even limited access. Public safety officers issued trespassers warnings, but the flow of hikers into the affected

areas was high enough that officers are now issuing citations and imposing fines for trespassing. Recovery in the Gorge will be a long, slow process, and it may well be years before the forest recovers. Trail restoration is also on hold as the U.S. Forest Service assesses the full scope of the damage and puts together a plan. The Mazamas and our partner organizations will continue to work together to help ensure the swift recovery of our beloved Columbia Gorge.

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The Gorge… is a part of me

feels like home

My love affair with the Columbia Gorge and the Mazamas began on July 26, 1959, when I joined a Mazama hike on Observation Peak north of Carson, Washington. I had moved to Portland six weeks earlier and was working in a lab at what was then the University of Oregon Medical School (now OHSU). Two of my coworkers were Mazamas who, on finding that I liked hiking, told me that the organization had a hiking program I might enjoy. So on that Sunday July morning at 7:30 a.m., I met up with a group of hikers in front of the Pacific Building on SW Salmon Street and got a ride with the Sazlow family. I don't remember anything about the hike itself, but I do remember that, instead of returning the way we had driven on the Oregon side, the Sazlow's chose to give me a better view of it—the best side they said—from the Washington side. I hiked frequently with the Mazamas during that fall and winter and became a Mazama after taking Basic Climbing School in the spring of 1960 and climbing Mount St. Helens. I have no idea how many times I have hiked on the best side in all seasons with friends, family, students, and alone in the 58 years since that first hike, but I know that its trails, streams, forests, and hills are part of me, and I am grateful for that.

As a college student in New York in the early 90s, I worked at the library returning books to the shelves. While I was pondering my future, I found the tiny section of books about Oregon, and two stood out. One featured a black and white photo of Multnomah Falls, which I gaped at open-mouthed. The other featured a story about female forest rangers. My imagination took off, and soon I landed a Student Conservation Association position in the Gorge with a U.S. Forest Service team and was based at the Multnomah Falls Visitor Center. I also did campfire talks, paraded on July 4th wearing a hot Smokey Bear outfit, sold items from the bookmobile, and traveled on the interpretive Lewis and Clark Amtrak train. While discovering hot springs, huckleberries, old growth trees, and eventually my fear of heights, too, I “fell in love outward” as poet Robinson Jeffers coined the term, and my life, now to be lived out west, was never the same again.

by George Cummings

by Jenny Dempsey Stein

Photos: (top) Sándor Lau, (bottom, from left to right) Carmen La Macchia, Jenny Dempsey Stein, Darrin Gunkel, Marti McClesky.

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gave me plenty

brought me back

Summer 2015 wasn’t a great year for Gorge waterfalls. Recordlow snowpack meant streams petered out early. So, not expecting much beyond a fine stroll, my wife Karin and I set out one July afternoon on the Wahkeena-Multnomah Loop. We were in for a pleasantly palatable surprise. Who knew such a dry year could produce the bumper crop of huckleberries and thimbleberries we stumbled into! With all the dawdling to graze on the fruits of the forest and take pictures of wildflowers, we did the loop in a record (slow) three and a half hours. The best moment, after watching Karin jumping to pick notso-low hanging huckleberries, was her creation of the Woodland Amuse-bouche: thimbleberry wrapped in an oxalis leaf. The tart leaf and earthy berry combination opened for us a whole new dimension in forest nibbling. Too bad morel season was over; a few of our favorite mushrooms to accompany this treat would have landed us in Iron Chef territory, for sure.

For me, the Gorge was a place for emotional healing after a divorce that ended my 28-year marriage. I had been told for a long time all the things that I could not do. I decided to take up hiking, hoping the exercise would help me feel better. I was at an extreme low point and searching for hikes. I looked at the description for Eagle Creek. I must mention I was terrified of heights then. Maybe it was the description of the “Vertigo Mile” that made me decide to challenge myself, or maybe at that point I really didn't care if I did fall off of it. I can't really remember which, but I do know that on that particular day in Eagle Creek I came to several realizations. The first was, “Wow! Eagle Creek is really, really beautiful!” The second was, “It is really cool to be standing on the edge of something that drops off like this.” And third, “I really want to find more hikes like this one.” Finally, “I can do this by myself.” Something awoke inside of me that day, a growing sense of adventure that has since grown to climbing mountains, rock climbing, and even traversing the entire Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness and bagging most of the peaks in it along the way in one 75-mile, 17,000+ foot of elevation gain, four-and-a-half day thru hike. I am thankful for that experience, all of my hikes I have done in the Gorge since that day, and the memories and photos I have of it before it was ravaged by this fire. I am thankful to the Gorge for bringing me back to life.

by Darrin Gunkel

by Marti McCleskey

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Gorge, continued from previous page

will rise again by Reena Clements Every winter, Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) is invited to visit the Trails Club of Oregon's Nesika Lodge for an overnight backpack trip. Nesika, nestled near Multnomah Falls and Larch Mountain, recently lost both dorms to the Eagle Creek Fire, while the main lodge appears to be standing. A long-standing winter tradition, the annual Nesika trip is the perfect way to introduce our members to backpacking and to both our group and a sister hiking organization. We have many fond memories and traditions at Nesika: exploring trails, finding an old Buick deep in the Gorge, making new friends through board games, potlucks, trying to bake bread in the oven, and watching the Empire Builder go by on the opposite side of the Gorge. AYM feels deeply for the buildings Nesika has lost and will be there for Trails Club when the time comes to rebuild.

Photos (clockwise, from top): Sándor Lau, Sarah Klain, John Leary, True Otis.

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Photos, from top: Vaqas Malik,Trapper Sutterfield, Kirby Young.

a place for adventure by Thomas Gibbons

No picture, just memories: In the summer of 1940, when I was 16, I hitchhiked up the old gorge highway to Tanner Creek. Several of us found rides with the construction workers building Bonneville Dam. This trip, I was alone and planned to find the “trail” leading above the main waterfall of Tanner Creek that my friend Bill Lenahan had told me about. At a point about 100 yards below the falls, I crossed the creek on a log jam and scrambled up a scree slope. Lo and behold, it ended at the opening to a gully that led steeply up to the left. The gully ended at approximately 200 feet above the creek. A scramble left brought me out to the cliff face! Now I was on a narrow trail, with a cliff below and above. It was so narrow I had to turn sideways to avoid my pack brushing the wall. As I proceeded upstream, the narrow trail became more like a game trail and wandered through a steep forested hillside. Passing another waterfall the canyon opened up, and nice pools invited me to fish for native cutthroat. With enough fish for dinner, I looked for a bench on which to make camp. Around a bend in the creek was just the spot, but someone had erected two large cabin tents and built a nice fire pit. While debating where to make camp, three adults walked into camp and said “Where did you come from?” When I told them, they could hardly believe it was possible. They were engineers surveying for the main power

line and construction road on the east slope of the canyon. One of them knew my parents and suggested it might be wise to join them the next morning, a Saturday, to hike out. Upstream we connected with a trail that led about two miles to a road heading west to Larch Mountain. About 15 years later, I did the hike with my young bride, later Mazama President Lois Gibbons. When we got to the game trail, we turned up-slope to Munra Point ridge and down the rough trail to I-84. A few years later, I led a Mazama hike up the route. Unfortunately, the trip is no longer possible. A crack in the gully widened over time from erosion and expansion from ice, and the whole wall on the creek side fell into the creek and created a partial dam. But a few of us have great memories of a beautiful, and adventurous, trip!

Thank you to everyone who contributed to our gorge feature.

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Mountains and mentors Reliving the Peregrine Traverse by Rick Allen

I

had snapped the lid closed on a box of climbing gear several weeks before, saying goodbye for what I thought would be the last time to chalk bag, shoes, and harness. I spent over 30 years drifting in and out of climbing, always looking for a partner, but never able to make a lasting connection. A professional career jealous of free time and energy also left me with catastrophic injuries, which made me a perfect weather barometer but limited my diminishing physical capabilities. Yet the rock called me to come back again and again. I wanted to feel the flow of moving over it, to be one with it and not at war. Old flames separated by time and circumstance reunited, discovering they were still in love with each other. I never made the transition to indoor gym climbing, at least not successfully. Overhanging thuggish routes replaced my beloved thin, high-angle face climbs. Slab. That’s what the kids called them now. Slab, said with disgust as if they were spitting something distasteful from their mouth. The internet had allowed me to find one of my first climbing heroes, Patrick Edlinger “Le Blond.” I would watch his Life by the Fingertips and remember the first time I saw it on television in 1984. It inspired me to recover from my injuries and reconnect with the rock again. When I mentioned him to young climbers at the local gym, no one had any idea who I was talking about. Slab. An email received from a climbing acquaintance had me prying the lid off that box of climbing gear once again. A recent college graduate would be spending the summer in Eugene and he needed a climbing partner. Would I be interested? Once more into the breach. Hope springs eternal, and so I began my relationship with Jordan Machtelinckx. An alpinist who wanted to improve his rock climbing for future mixed routes, he attacked routes with a raw power I could only dream of, yet he was open to suggestion. Over beers and pulled pork nachos I told him of Edlinger and Ron Kauk, those masters of climbing elegance I so admired, and a seed was planted. Weeks passed and Jordan

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progressed from murdering 5.9s with blunt force trauma to gliding up 5.11s with the grace and poise I knew was there within him. The summer months advanced and I knew my time of having a steady climbing partner would end, as all good things must. Jordan was more than ready to stretch his wings on a worthy project and he was eager. We wanted more than the typical Smith Rock multi-pitch day. Beer and nachos gave way to Guinness and Irish whiskey in my backyard. Jordan poured over guide books as I refilled glasses. We agreed on the Peregrine Traverse of Acker Rock. Touted as Oregon’s longest sport climb, it is ten pitches of sparsely bolted rock in a remote part of the state. There would be no ten-minute approach from a paved parking lot. No stairs or easy rescue if things went badly. No running water, no cell service, no nothing. I read the route description and looked at photos again and again. Ten pitches. I didn’t need to do the climber’s math to realize it is going to be a very long day, and I am 58 years old. I reach for the whiskey and poured four fingers. I felt the twinge in my gut and recognized the feeling for what it was. Fear. I am not one for tilting at windmills. There is no room in my life for Walter Mitty fantasy. Occasionally, when I look in the mirror I see my father. I recognize ugly

truths and accept them for what they are, despite what I might wish and dream for myself. My best years have come and gone. My body is broken and I am old. I am old. Labor Day arrives. The end of summer. We load gear into my truck and drive south in the darkness, sunrise still hours away. Paved roads turn to gravel as we drive deeper into the forest under morning light still devoid of color. I suddenly see an enormous black bear playing peekaboo behind an equally enormous old-growth stump. I try to direct Jordan to it but what is clearly evident to me is invisible to him. The ensuing conversation borders on the comedic. It’s right there! Where? There. I soon realize we are seeing the world through different eyes. After a few missed turns we arrive at the parking area and see the gate is closed. This means a longer approach hike than we had hoped for. Certainly longer than I had hoped for. As we gather our gear and rack up, the last climber group from the weekend is leaving. They wish us well and say, “You have the place all to yourselves.” We begin the long uphill walk and Jordan chats happily. I am not exactly gasping, but my replies are short and I let him carry the bulk of the conversation, as well as the pack weight. Suddenly, I hear a sound I recognize as claws on tree bark, followed by the cries of a wailing child. We have inadvertently startled a bear cub who has


The lengthy wait at belay stances causes my body to stiffen and old injuries begin to ache. I struggle at the beginning when it is my turn to climb. I am the Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz looking for a can of oil.

Rick below the summit of Acker Rock. Photo: Jordan Machelinckx

scampered 40 feet up a tree and now screams for mama to come to the rescue. Jordan fumbles with his phone trying to take a photo as I explain to him we really don’t want to be here when its mother returns. Jordan is enthralled by this rarely-seen sight while I am recalling the size of the bear I had seen earlier. We are seeing the world through different eyes. We climb over an embankment and leave the gravel road for the climber’s trail, which is nothing more than an animal trail. The trail is loose and off-camber. I struggle with the unfamiliar weight of a pack and I feel unstable. I stumble on and, without the aid of trekking poles, the inevitable happens. Jordan stares at me quizzically as I attempt to regain my feet. We have not even begun the real climbing and I am already on my ass. A brief glimpse through the trees gives me my first full view of Acker Rock. It seems immense. Huge and, for me, intimidating. We finally reach the area known as the Sun Bowl. Aptly named, we are bathed in full morning sun. Jordan ropes up to lead the first pitch

as I organize his belay. I look up at the rock. Ten pitches to go. Jordan breezes through the first pitch and establishes our first belay stance. I marvel at the solid coarse nature of the rock, glad to have made the decision to keep my leather belay gloves on. I am starting to relax, thinking I may actually remember how to do this. The last time I did any serious multi-pitch climbing, I was Jordan’s age. That simple thought causes me to reminisce about climbing the Bastille Crack in El Dorado Springs Canyon. So long ago. What happened to my life? Where did it all go? Jordan takes off on the second pitch and I return my thoughts to the present and the task at hand. One pitch follows another as an easy, pleasant pattern develops. At the end of each pitch we share a PowerBar and water as we discuss the joys and difficulties of the preceding pitch. I feel the sun’s intensity on my face and skin and know the climbing helmet

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Mentors, continued from previous page I am wearing is doing nothing for me as a sunblock. I open my flip phone and check for a signal. Zip. Zero. It is taking us far longer than we imagined it would. This won’t be done in a couple of hours. It will be an all-day affair. We continue moving upward with Jordan in the lead. I pause at certain points on each pitch for a good look around, taking mental snapshots. I am savoring this extended moment in time with my young friend. I am ushering him in the beginning years of his life of adventures as he is leading me upward to the end of mine. The lengthy wait at belay stances causes my body to stiffen and old injuries begin to ache. I struggle at the beginning when it is my turn to climb. I am the Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz looking for a can of oil. We begin to find a rhythm and are now hundreds of feet up. I watch falcons glide back and forth across the face below me. Jordan is high above me and out of sight. Just when I think all is well, he calls down to me. “I’m not sure … I … I think we’re off route.” Off route. It’s a sanitized version for lost. A voice that had been happy and confident was now filled with concern. We are almost out of rope and Jordan cannot find the established belay anchors. He creates a solid anchor and yells down to me with words that sound something like, “rappel off.” Oh, the hell you say! I cup my hands and yell back. “Put me on belay and bring me up. We’ll talk about it.” I reach Jordan and am relieved to be together again. I see he has made us a solid anchor by stringing webbing and cordelette around what looks like an upside-down sugar cone. He talks again about rappel. I am against it. I tell him sketchy rappels are how people die on these things. An old memory from my first trip to Yosemite returns to me. A guy had rappelled down to a ledge I was on. We spoke briefly and then he stepped back to finish his rappel, 70 feet to the ground. I had looked away but heard the unmistakable sound of rope running rapidly against rock. I turned back and lunged for him, but it was too late. He

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was out of my reach and falling, his eyes wide, locked with mine, begging for help I couldn’t give him. The wild windmilling of his arms carried him away from the rock as basketball-sized granite boulders at the base awaited his arrival. I shook the memory out of my head. Lesson learned, there was no point dwelling on it. Jordan looks around us, then up at the remaining portion of the route, then at me. He is not convinced. I tell him, “Look, I have the rack. Let’s take the gear for a walk. I bet the anchors are just over that bulge above us.” I can see sunlight reflecting off a bolt line above us. I reason with him, saying, “All roads lead to Rome, we just need to keep climbing up and we’ll find our way.” Jordan is not enthused about my leading and expresses his concerns. Valid point and just in time, as I am scared like hell at the thought of my first time on lead since before he was born. I can’t believe I am stupid enough to suggest it. It was time for a pep talk. “Look, you’re a 5.11 climber. This is several grades below what you’re capable of. I know we can finish this. You just need to breathe up, center yourself, and execute,” I say. As if on cue, he closes his eyes and begins some focused, purposeful breathing. Thirty seconds later he looks at me and gives a sharp nod of his head. I put him back on belay and he is gone. Jordan disappears over the bulge and seconds later I hear a happy shout, “Found ‘em.” We are back in business. Jordan had been leading well all day, but the next two pitches are a thing of beauty. He is powerful and confident. He cruises up a final squeeze chimney that I murder by sheer force. As I reach him, he gestures to me with arms stretched out, as if to welcome me. I collapse beside him in a combination of relief and exhaustion. Still, he reaches toward me. “What? Are we hugging? We’re not done yet?” I ask. Jordan chuckles and says, “No, dude. I love you, but right now I just want your slings.” One more pitch to go.

Pitch ten is an exposed traverse across the knife-edge summit ridge. When I say exposed, I mean exposure that would send any normal person’s nether regions on the express elevator to their throat. We forge on and top out. The Peregrine Traverse of Acker Rock is complete. I sit next to Jordan and revel in the exposure. We look out at a never-ending sea of trees. Alone here on this grand piece of rock, I am happy. I truly enjoy silence. Moments like this border on bliss. An earsplitting whoop sounds across the canyons as Jordan celebrates his achievement in the way young climbers do these days. My head snaps around to glare at him for disturbing my peaceful moment, but then I see him standing with his arms raised up in exaltation. My annoyance gone, I can only look at him and smile. I hope he will seize the life that lies before him and have many more of these days ahead. The button-down 9-to-5 world can wait. I look toward the setting sun and know this is most likely my last summit, but I am glad I shared it with him, grateful to him for leading me to this glorious end. Nearly three years have passed since that day spent on Acker Rock. Jordan moved on and completed an Odysseus-like trek across western Asia. He is living the life I had hoped for him, filled with meaningful work, loving relationships, and continuing adventures. I write this from the comfort of home, my cat sleeping peacefully in my lap. I continue to climb at the local gym and get on real rock when the rare opportunity presents itself. I keep track of current climbing news via the internet. I see that Chris Bonington has returned to climb the Old Man of Hoy at the age of 80. Peter Habler, an old climbing partner of Reinhold Messner, has topped out on the North Face of the Eiger at 72. I gaze out the window and allow myself to consider what might be possible. Maybe, I think. Just maybe.


Madrone Wall Saved

Opening day at Madrone Wall Park, 2017. Photo: Keith Daellenbach Archive

A 20-year journey to save a local treasure by Keith K. Daellenbach, Director, Secretary/Treasurer, Co-Founder, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee “Simply because we were licked a hundred years before we started is no reason for us not to try and win.” Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (Harper Lee, 1960).

T

he principle of wildland conservation goes to the core of the Mazama mountaineering organization. Members today truly stand on the shoulders of giants like indomitable conservationist William Gladstone Steel, founder and first president of the Mazamas, who badgered, cajoled, advocated, persistently fought for, and finally, after 17 years, convinced Congress to designate Oregon’s Crater Lake as a national park. President Theodore Roosevelt signed into law the nation’s fifth national park on May 22, 1902. The spirit of the Mazama mission for stewardship and conservation of public lands will, I know, continue far into the future. Too infrequently do we have the opportunity to secure a wild treasure for future generations and, as a fellow Mazama, I can say the fight to save the Madrone Wall was the fight for our time.

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Madrone, continued from previous page “In wildness is the preservation of the world.” Henry David Thoreau

The Madrone Wall, found along Oregon Scenic Highway 224 2.2 miles east of Carver at the edge of Portland, takes its name from a stand of Pacific madrone trees, which are uncommon in the northern Willamette Valley. There is a small wetland and over 100 native plant species, including old-growth Douglas firs left as seed trees after the site was logged in the

Shortly thereafter, Clackamas County closed the crag to public access and posted “no trespassing” signs. Word quickly spread through the climbing community, primarily through the three indoor climbing gyms of the time: Portland Rock Gym, Stoneworks, and ClubSport (today, with the growth of interest in rock climbing, there is now a baker’s dozen of local gyms). A small group of climbers, myself included, started meeting and plotting a strategy. We founded a non-profit, allvolunteer organization, the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee, and doggedly pursued a park instead. We were resolute in our conviction that we were on the right side of history: we recognized the Portland Metro was growing at double the national rate, and that this site was easily accessible to half of Oregon’s population. It was the only public land along the lower Clackamas River bluffs and could be an anchor site for a future large park. Twenty years later, on October 21, 2017, Madrone Wall Park opened as the first new public park in Clackamas County in well over a decade. What follows is an account of the long battle to save this 44-acre civic treasure, closed to public access for two decades, now at last open again to all—including climbers.

The Madrone Wall, found along Oregon Scenic Highway 224 2.2 miles east of Carver at the edge of Portland, takes its name from a stand of Pacific madrone trees, which are uncommon in the northern Willamette Valley. There is a small wetland and over 100 native plant species, including old-growth Douglas firs left as seed trees after the site was logged in the early 1950s. And, of course, a rare bluff of monolithic basalt, unique in the northern Willamette Valley, sporting over 100 rock climbing routes of all skill levels. early 1950s. And, of course, a rare bluff of monolithic basalt, unique in the northern Willamette Valley, sporting over 100 rock climbing routes of all skill levels. In fall 1997, without any public communication or discussion, Clackamas County launched a plan to blow up the rocky cliff at Madrone Wall for use as a quarry. Nearby Barton Pit (now part of Barton Park), an alluvial, river rock quarry, was closing down as its resource diminished. The county picked Madrone Wall for its next source of rock for road maintenance.

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“If you know both yourself and your enemy, you can come out of hundreds of battles without danger.” Sun Tzu, The Art of War

This region is the Indigenous ancestral land of the Willamette Tumwater, Clackamas, Kathlemet, Molalla, Multnomah and Watlala Chinook, and Tualatin Kalapuya, who are today part of the Confederated Tribes of the Grand Ronde. Madrone Wall became a Clackamas

County property in 1937, when it was purchased from a private citizen, Anna S. Robertson, for $2,000. From the 1940s to the early 1970s, Clackamas County mined ancient river rock deposits for forest road maintenance from a borrow pit, known as Hardscrabble Quarry, away from the wall and just below the present-day parking lot. From the 1970s through 1997, the site was open to outdoor recreation, including rock climbing. I grew up in semi-rural Benton County (Albany) and moved to upstate New York for graduate school followed by a year working in Manhattan. When I moved back to Oregon, I was eager to explore my new home in Portland. One mid-week day in early September 1997, I visited the Madrone Wall with a friend and climbed the route Electric Everything (5.7). I topped out through the loose entablature and Pacific madrone trees at the top of the cliff. In the light of the setting sun, I looked out over the lower Clackamas River basin, a bend in the river a third of a mile away. I thought to myself, “What an incredible place! Amazing views and great crag climbing for all abilities, and close in to Portland. This is why I came home to Oregon.” I was 30 years old. At first, we did not even know why the site was closed. By 1998, we got wind that the county wanted to open a hard rock quarry that would completely remove the Wall—a much different concept than the small borrow pit quarry. When we asked the county for information about the planned quarry, we were stonewalled. One of the founders of our group, Chris Carey, at the time an Assistant District Attorney for Multnomah County, proposed we file a Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) request to compel the county to respond. Our initial FOIA in November 1998 was rejected by the county. So we filed a second FOIA. We knew we needed some highpowered counsel, but had no money. Chris and I went to the Mazamas and asked for seed money, as a small grassroots band of climbers. That must have looked pretty pathetic! But the Mazama Council, led by President Christine Mackert, took a chance on us and approved a small grant in May 1999—the first of several small grants from the Mazamas over the years. We were very grateful. A grant from the Access Fund followed


No trespassing sign at Madrone Wall. Photo: Keith Daellenbach

in June. In October 2000, we had a successful fundraiser at Gary Rall’s Portland Rock Gym (PRG). Because we exceeded our fundraising goal of $5,000, Martin Tull, then PRG’s enthusiastic manager who almost single-handedly organized the fundraising auction, shaved off his long blonde hair and donated it to an organization making hairpieces for children suffering from medical hair loss. Without this early funding, our fledgling enterprise might have failed, and the site would have been quarried and lost forever. Others pitched in as well. In 2003, Joe Hargrave made a remarkable diorama of the overall site, and a second diorama of just the cliff out of cork and thin slats of cherry wood, which we showed people who had never seen the area. In 2004, Kim Lehecka applied her artistic illustration skills to make the iconic “Save Madrone” logo, which we used in a brochure, T-shirts,

and countless letters. Later, in 2017, Andy Nuttbrock created the Landscape Plan for the Madrone Wall Park, which was on the county’s final checklist to open the park. Micah Klesick, partnering with The American Safe Climbing Association, spent several months just prior to the park’s opening replacing almost 300 defective bolts and anchors to make the site safer. Brian Walsh, Richard Bence, and Dynee Medlock all provided webmaster and hosting services to our savemadrone.org website over the years. All of this work was done pro bono. “I’ll fight—and you bet it’s no sham-fight; It’s hell!—but I’ve been there before; And it’s better than this by a damsite—So for me the Yukon once more.” Robert Service, The Spell of the Yukon

In our early days, we fought an uphill battle. We hired attorney Wendie

Kellington who, in a meeting with county officials, proceeded to cite case law that shredded county arguments. The county used public funds for studies backing a public quarry, yet kept those studies locked up at the downtown Stoel Rives law firm, claiming attorney-client privilege! Her arguments were convincing, and shortly thereafter I received three thick binders cataloging a detailed groundwater study and a hard rock mining plan that would “remove all vegetation” (i.e., log all trees) and over a period of several years blow up the entire cliff and remove it. We were stunned; this was the real deal. By this time, the county had already spent $320,000 on plans and studies and was within weeks of filing for a Conditional Use Permit that would allow a zoning variance on “TBR” (timber) land to quarry the site. They had to do this because the county wanted to use the rock for general

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Madrone, continued from previous page space properties in the greater Portland area. We talked to Metro, but they were not interested in purchasing a property that was already owned by the public. We talked to Metro about an Opportunity Grant to help pay for park creation costs, but they declined because the land was not within the Urban Growth Boundary (UGB). It was, in fact, only one mile outside the UGB and Metro was buying up willing seller properties all over the area, including many outside the UGB. “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.” Margaret Mead

Madrone Wall. Photo: Keith Daellenbach

county road maintenance rather than only forest road maintenance. A quarry was imminent, and our group stood in the breach. In 1998, we were lectured by then-County Commissioner Judie Hammerstad that “Public discussion had already occurred” and it was “determined that it is the public’s best interest to continue to use this site as a much-needed rock quarry”— despite the fact that no public discussion had taken place. Some of the early climbing activists thought the best course of action was to

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simply get the site reopened and return to the previous access state. I disagreed. Even if we managed to prevent the county’s planned quarry and overcome county concerns over liability, I believed that only permanent protected status as a park or open space would preserve the site long term from logging or housing development. In 1995, voters in Clackamas, Multnomah, and Washington counties had overwhelmingly approved a $136 million Metro bond measure (another one passed in 2006 for $227 million) to purchase open

In March 1999, our group gained further legitimacy when Ian Caldwell, Chris Carey, and I incorporated as the officers and directors of Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC). We gained federal non-profit status as a 501(c)3 public charitable organization in 2003, allowing us to apply for additional grants that stipulated non-profit status. We needed money for attorney fees, site studies, snail mail outreach, and mass communication. We knew we had to expand our base from a small, committed grassroots group of dirtbag rock climbers to voting citizens in Clackamas County. In these early days of the internet, there was no Facebook and outreach was expensive and timeconsuming. One Saturday, in desperation, I drove around rural Clackamas County in the Madrone Wall area in my old blue Honda Civic hatchback and wrote down addresses from mailboxes; it’s almost quaint looking back now. With letters addressed to “Resident,” we invited them to a meeting in February 1999 at the old Carver School. We also invited county officials. At the meeting, we informed over 100 citizens of quarry plans. Citizens were outraged, and talked about rustling up a posse and demanding answers from the county. A similar meeting was held shortly thereafter at Still Meadow Conference and Retreat Center near the Madrone Wall. Although the county was required to share quarry plans with the nearest neighbors, no one had been informed. The public meetings had the effect of slowing down the county process to a more deliberative pace. A citizen group made up primarily of people living along


nearby Southeast Semple Road formed the Clackamas River Basin Conservation Alliance, which allied to our effort. Rather than filing the Conditional Use Permit application, the county instead retrenched, and in July 1999 launched an eightmonth Aggregate Resources Task Force to evaluate the economics of quarrying. Because I am not a citizen of Clackamas County (I live in Multnomah County), I was not allowed to be on the panel; however, I attended all public meetings and provided my input regardless. The outcome was inconclusive. We had some inkling that the quarry economics were unfounded. Having no other options, we took a huge risk: co-funding with the county a new and conclusive study focused only on economics, with all recreation, land, and watershed preservation priorities taken off the table. We found an expert both parties could both agree on: Bob Whalen, a well-regarded economic geologist at ECONorthwest. In May 2000, Mr. Whalen completed a study that concluded it was “uneconomical even under the most favorable circumstances to quarry the site.” The Madrone Wall simply did not have the economy of scale for a viable quarry. Cam Gilmour, then Director of the Department of Transportation and Development and an economist himself, reviewed the report and proposed to the Board of County Commissioners (BCC) that plans to quarry the site “with County forces” be dropped—which it did in September 2000. The irreversible destruction of a natural treasure, with the accompanying damage to habitat as well as noise, dust, traffic, and effluent discharge, was thus narrowly averted. In 2001, the county instituted a competitive bid process by which private quarries supplied rock, saving the county thousands of dollars. This was our first early victory. But it did not mean the site would not be quarried in the future by a private operation, nor that it would not be sold and developed for homes. “In the First Amendment, the Founding Fathers gave the free press the protection it must have to fulfill its essential role in our democracy. The press was to serve the governed, not the governors.” Supreme Court Justice Hugo Black, New York Times Co. v.

United States (Pentagon Papers), June 26, 1971

The Constitution’s First Amendment grants freedom of the press. Al Gore noted that a “Free press is the immune system of representative democracy.” I am grateful for this freedom. I have traveled in totalitarian countries like China where, for all there is to celebrate in their history and civilization, the lack of a free and independent press means there is no check for government accountability, and people lack basic knowledge of what is happening around them. In the United States, because we can speak out, we have the opportunity to change outcomes, plot a new direction, and, ultimately, build a more resilient and fair society. Over 40 articles on the Madrone Wall fight appeared in newspapers ranging from the Damascus/Boring Observer (since folded), The Oregonian, and the Clackamas Review. Some were op-ed pieces I wrote; others were by journalists who took the time to report the story from multiple angles. I was interviewed on radio and local television. I wrote additional articles that were published in the Mazama Bulletin over the years. On behalf of the MWPC and our partners, I accepted a Sharp End Award from the Access Fund (2005) and the Montague Cup conservation award from the Mazamas (2006). This public attention served to legitimize our effort and keep it in the public view, and kept pressure on Clackamas County leaders to make a change. To keep people informed in the early years, we held many “mailing parties” at the Hawthorne Street Lucky Labrador Brew Pub, mailing to a list that grew to over 1,300 people. Local rock gyms let us post fliers and set up a table to talk to climbers. During the shameful two-decade closure of this public land, a whole generation of young rock climbers and outdoor enthusiasts were unable to visit the site, yet people would still show up to public meetings and fundraisers (e.g., Jeff Alzner’s K2000 Expedition and Wayne Wallace’s Picket Range Enchainment presentations) and help despite, in many cases, never having actually visited the site. That is the power of an idea in action. Before 1997, when the site was openly climbed, climbers self-policed, and no

graffiti was placed. During the 20-year closure, a massive amount of illegally dumped garbage, including car parts, refrigerators, washing machines, and bottles, was thrown from the top of the cliff. Vandals left graffiti that remains difficult to remove without damaging the rock surface. “We do need samples of nature in all its diversity and, yes, we should conserve future gene banks. We can portray mammals as characters on screens or in books, and certainly national parks should be managed for the delight and distraction of the workweary but, if we are not prepared to preserve viable natural habitats for their own sakes, to give animals spaces of their own, then, in a real sense, we have lost sight of our place in this world. Parks in Africa will have failed if they do not encourage people to wonder at the natural order of life on earth and to reflect upon the world beyond civilization and its physical and mental boundaries, a world beyond grasping human hands where eyes, minds and memories alone can be touched by its eternal mystery and grace.” Jonathan Kingdon, The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals, 1997

As local Eagle Creek-Barton Community Planning Organization (CPO) President Charlene DeBruin said, “We could not build this from scratch.” The natural basalt cliff face soars up to 80 feet tall and is over 1,000 feet long at its base. 612,000 years ago, an igneous lava flow emanated from local vents on the bluff towards Damascus and flowed downslope towards the ancient lower Clackamas River Basin. This lava flow covered the older layered stream deposits of the Springwater Formation; the contact zone is visible in a few areas along the base of the Wall. Erosion action by the meandering Clackamas River scoured away the stream deposits below the basalt cliffs and caused the cliff to become unstable. Eventually, large blocks of the cliff broke apart and crashed down, creating the 1,000-foot-long natural cliff face we see today, as well as the rocky basalt talus deposits below the cliff. Ancient stream terraces are visible on the hillside between Highway 224 and the parking lot. Ice Age flooding from ancient Lake Missoula (in present-day northwest Montana) released massive amounts of water multiple times,

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Madrone, continued from previous page creating cataclysmic floods between 15,000 and 8,000 years ago. These floodwaters temporarily backed up into the Basin to 400 feet elevation and nearly the top of the Wall. The geologic transformation of this site slowly continues today. The nearby Clackamas River supports world-class salmon and steelhead habitat and is federally protected as a National Wild and Scenic River. Park land is needed in a growing area and it is a social imperative to secure a wild treasure for

creation endeavors. In June 2003, County Commissioner Bill Kennemer “canceled indefinitely” a BCC study session to discuss the Madrone Wall on the same day it was scheduled. However, in an August 2004 meeting, Commissioner Larry Sowa committed county resources to determine the future of Madrone Wall “once and for all.” In 2004, the BCC consisted of Martha Schrader, Bill Kennemer, and Larry Sowa (the current BCC contains five members). At that time, commissioners Schrader and Kennemer appeared to me to be diametrically opposed on nearly everything, so the board’s decisions often hinged on Commissioner Sowa’s vote.

Meanwhile, in what I saw as an example of a “tragedy of the commons,” a small but persistent minority of climbers continued to trespass the site, jeopardizing the larger common good of the park’s creation by disregarding the county’s “no trespassing” posting. future generations—not when the land is being overrun by development but, rather, when it is already in the public trust. Existing parks are not the final tally of what must be preserved for a growing Metro area. We were inspired by earlier examples of Metro land preservation, such as Lewis and Clark State Park (1936), Forest Park (1948), and Tryon Creek State Park (1975). Today, nobody looks at these investments and thinks they were a mistake. These preserves are urban oases receiving thousands of annual visits as people reconnect with nature and make metropolitan Portland one of the greatest places to live in the country. In the case of Forest Park and Tryon Creek, their establishment was led by a small group of committed individuals. The “Forest Park Committee of Fifty” included members of the City Club of Portland and the Mazamas. While the names of these individuals are largely lost to history, just as our names will be, it will be the future visitors that reap the benefit of earlier park

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“Nothing dollarable is safe, however guarded.” John Muir, 1910

In March 2005, Commissioner Schrader rotated into the Chair seat. With Commissioner Sowa’s support, she committed to determining the future of the Madrone Wall, including its evaluation as a park in a master planning process. In my 20 years in this preservation effort, it was the only time I saw a politician show significant courage in the face of opposition, and for that Commissioner Schrader should be applauded. Her position was strongly opposed by Commissioner Kennemer, who slammed his fist down on the table and exclaimed the land was a “Cash cow worth 10 million dollars!” I knew that this could not be accurate but it was a provocative figure nonetheless. Why not sell the land if it was indeed worth that much? When officials spouted inaccurate or misleading information, we respectfully and immediately corrected the record. We were tactful yet forceful, using coherent facts and data to support our case. While we pressed our points effectively, we were careful not to come across as extremist, something I have noticed in some environmentalist groups. Responding to the commissioner’s

assertion, I approached the county and told them we would conduct an evaluation with a professional land appraiser and provide the findings. This study was not cheap but it needed to be done. We engaged Craig Zell, a land appraiser of Zell & Associates, who set the land value at $770,000. Additionally, if all the timber was logged and all the rock quarried, the maximum valuation could be as high as $2,214,000, a fraction of the claimed amount. This kind of objective, fact-based response always helped our cause, and it settled the issue. Commissioner Schrader’s directive kicked off a nine-month survey of Madrone Wall’s future by the Park Advisory Board (PAB), a citizen advisory board to the BCC. We launched a letter-writing campaign and over 500 people wrote in advocating that a park be established and recreational access be restored. We got the word out to local citizens, businesses, and climbers to attend local county-led public involvement meetings. In 2006, the BCC unanimously accepted the PAB recommendations, which included: do not sell the site for a private quarry or real estate development (another small victory), make park creation at Madrone Wall a high priority, and keep the public site posted “no trespassing” until the site reopened as a park. Meanwhile, in what I saw as an example of a “tragedy of the commons,” a small but persistent minority of climbers continued to trespass the site, jeopardizing the larger common good of the park’s creation by disregarding the county’s “no trespassing” posting. That sense of selfish entitlement disturbed me. These few climbers did a lot of harm, because the county could always dismiss the larger climbing community as a lot of bad apples who trespassed with impunity and could not be trusted as dependable partners. On the other hand, it was public land, and in all the county’s 2,600 acres of timberland, the Madrone Wall had the dubious distinction of being the only property that was continuously closed to public access—so I could at least understand the impulse. “This is what it’s like to be the little guy up against the Giant. You have to know everything about the Giant and the Giant doesn’t even know you’re there.” Rachel Louise Snyder, This American Life (“David and


Goliath—Dreams of Distant Factories”)

The amount of planning that went into creating Madrone Wall Park was astounding. I counted no less than 19 studies, yet the project moved forward in fits and starts for many years before gaining real momentum. When the county park leaders wanted to move a project forward and get something done, they always found a way; the converse was also true. Take, for example, Knights Bridge Park near Canby on the Molalla River, a pet project of Mike McLees. He was the County Parks and Forest Supervisor nearing retirement, and an avid local steelhead fishing guide on the Molalla River. In 2008, County Parks earmarked $170,000 from a 2006 Metro greenspace bond measure allocation for a local government share to purchase the property adjacent to the bridge. Within months, with no public comment and no parks master plan, 60 cottonwood trees were felled, a gravel access road and parking area were created, and a concrete pad poured for a privy; park signs went up, and a boat ramp was established. While I do not begrudge County Parks creating a new park, there is some hypocrisy in completing this with no public process or conditional use permit hearing, both of which were demands set for the Madrone Wall process. “If you don’t set deadlines in this town, things don’t happen. The default position is inertia, because doing something always creates some people who are unhappy. There’s always going to be some interest out there that decides, ‘You know what? The status quo is working for me a little bit better.’” President Barack Obama, speaking of healthcare reform, July 23, 2009

Madrone Wall, for many years, appeared to be afflicted with a “not invented here” mentality even though it was supported by a wide swath of hundreds of citizens, outdoor enthusiasts, politicians, local business owners, all nearby rural CPO’s (Grant Park, Rock Creek, Eagle CreekBarton, South Clackamas), schools, churches, scouts, and climbing and environmental groups. Ten plus years into the project, I was called “impatient” by county officials—which I found ironic, but I also wore it as a badge of honor. As the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. wrote from a Birmingham jail in 1963, “‘Wait’ has almost always meant ‘Never,’” and “We

must use time creatively, in the knowledge that the time is always ripe to do right.” Those were some dark, discouraging days, but we pressed on in our own way as Dr. King did in his. In June 2008, the five-month parks master planning process finished, and in January 2009 produced a Final Concept design that included logging the upper bluff (the county later dropped this stipulation) and cited rock climbing as an identified recreational use. The Clackamas County Parks Plan 2000 (ca. February 1995) called for a county minimum goal of 131 park acres in the Damascus-Boring area and 259 acres in 2015. In 2008, there were zero park acres. The Madrone Wall had the added benefit that it was already owned by the public so no willing seller arrangements or land purchase was necessary. The Clackamas County Parks Master Plan: Beginning the New Millennium, 2000 even called to “diversify development in parks to meet a variety of user needs including rock climbing.” Mr. McLees was also enthusiastic about “blue sky logging,” a euphemism for clearcutting. As an engineer, I appreciate the need for careful resource extraction to build and maintain a society; resources like aggregate for roads and buildings, and timber for home construction, need to come from somewhere. But there are some wild places so special that they should be preserved for all time; the 44 acres at Madrone Wall is such a treasure. “This is truly worse than birthing a baby.” Carol Witbeck, Friends of Barton Park and Scenic Clackamas River, 2009

In 2009, Dan Zinzer, then Director of the Department of Business and Community Services (which oversees County Parks and Forest), decided to move forward with a Local Government Grant application to Oregon Parks and Recreation Division (OPRD) to fund the park creation project. We were thrilled and launched a campaign to garner support letters from multiple U.S. congressional representatives and community leaders. Our outreach resulted in an augmented submission containing over 250 letters of support for the application. The BCC passed a resolution directing County Parks to submit the grant. The application included the 2009 Final Concept Design

and the letters we submitted. At the pivotal public presentation to OPRD, however, Clackamas County parks planner Katie Dunham communicated that there was little support for the Madrone Wall compared with the newer Boring Station Trailhead Park project that she initiated. Sadly nonfactual, this may have torpedoed the Madrone Wall application. Boring Station went on to be a successful OPRD grant recipient, while the Madrone Wall went into the county’s dustbin for several more years. There is no easy solution in a protracted campaign and we took the long view. We were clear thinking and did not let setbacks distract us. We were audacious, as climbers are by nature, and pressed on through years of working with some brittle, antediluvian government officials who essentially told us to go pound sand. We set our mission early with clear, realistic goals: stop quarrying and development, reestablish recreational and educational access, work for permanent protective status as a park, and be a long-term “friends of ” park advocacy partner—and stuck to it. To the adage, “You get more bees with honey than vinegar,” we found it was easier to sustain standing for something people could get behind— creating a public park—than only standing against something—a quarry. We sowed many seeds and many fell on stony ground. It was baffling when seemingly like-minded, high-profile environmental groups like The Nature Conservancy told us our direction was wrong and they “did not want to expend their political capital,” even to write a simple letter of support. Would they rather sit idly by and watch the cliff be blown up? Same with the Audubon Society of Portland (although we later collaboratively worked with Bob Sallinger to create a plan for peregrine falcon protection). Sometimes it felt like we were out there rowing our own boat. However, we did not stall out, rather we floated above it and steamed ahead. Other seeds we sowed, including some long shots, germinated and helped us in the form of letters, donations, and advocacy. We found creative solutions to seemingly intractable challenges of planning and funding. While the enthusiasm of many climbers had a

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Madrone, continued from previous page half-life, others like Kellie Rice and Mike Ferrell formed a core group of committed activists with the tenacity for our relentless campaign, where giving up never seemed like a viable option even if it could end up as a lost cause. After Ian Caldwell stepped down from the MWPC presidency and moved to eastern Oregon, Kellie Rice stepped into that role in 2004. She was a Regional Access Fund Coordinator (2003-2008) and brought new energy, enthusiasm, and intelligence to the MWPC. Kellie brought her organizational talents and innate cheerfulness to bear on the preservation effort by organizing fundraising efforts at the Mazamas and the Old Market Pub & Brewery. She got the word out at many events, including local climbing comps, the Smith Rock Spring Thing, and the Reel Rock Film Tour. Kellie organized the first “Oregon & Washington Climber and Land Manager Summit,” held at Nike in 2008 (the second such summit was held at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and Ecotrust in November 2016). Kellie organized multiple letter-writing campaigns at local climbing gyms. She received extensive training by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (USF&W) to monitor peregrine falcons, which was later put to use at Madrone Wall in 2017 and 2018. I am a dinosaur when it comes to Facebook and she propelled our communications into the modern age by launching and managing the MWPC Facebook page ( facebook. com/madronewall), now a primary communication tool. It cannot be sugar-coated and we knew that preservation efforts can take many years. Preserving the Columbia River Gorge, in fact, took generations. In the early 1900s, private landowners donated property, and civic activists worked to preserve spectacular features like Latourell Falls. In 1915, U.S. Secretary of Agriculture David F. Houston created the nation’s first “recreation reserve,” encompassing 14,000 acres of cliffs, waterfalls, and portions of the new Columbia River Highway. But it was another seven decades before President Ronald Reagan signed the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area Act into law, protecting 292,500 acres in 1986. “No plan survives first contact with the enemy.” Derivation of military wisdom from Prussian Field Marshal Helmuth Karl

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Bernhard Graf von Moltke (1800-1891)

In January 2009, I was chukar hunting with my old grade school friend Phil Gerstner on the lower John Day River. As we walked out of the canyon back to his rig, he asked me about the Madrone Wall effort. Pity the unsuspecting friend, for I always had a lot to unpack on that topic! He listened patiently, then told me that the Oregon Army National Guard occasionally partnered on public-public, pro bono capital construction projects. The 1249th Engineering Battalion (224th Engineering Company) must train its soldiers to use dozers, scrapers, excavators, and other heavy road-building equipment to build roads when deployed to hostile theaters. This was really thinking outside the box. One of our principles of engagement was to identify and solve issues to remove barriers to the park-creation process— make it easy to say “yes” and hard to say “no.” Finding a pro bono road construction partner would be a boon if established. At a subsequent BCC study session, I proposed having the Guard complete the access road and parking construction as a way to save the county a substantial sum. Gary Barth, then Director of Business and Community Services, said the county had often partnered with the Guard on construction projects. Although I saw no evidence of this, because I was asking to approach the Guard as an officer of MWPC and not the county, they basically said “go ahead, kid, knock yourself out.” In March 2009, I invited Guard soldiers to the site. They were encouraging: the work at the site was not overly large or complex, and much of the equipment that soldiers needed training in could be used to build out the 20-vehicle parking area and resurface the existing quarter-mile access road with aggregate. Construction could be finished by a platoon of soldiers within a single two-week training period. They did, however, need something that did not yet exist: detailed road and parking construction documents stamped by a professional engineer (P.E., civil). I am a registered professional engineer (mechanical) but did not feel qualified to develop these plans. I reached out to one of my undergraduate engineering professors at Oregon State University, Dr. William Warnes, who mentioned a civic-minded civil engineer he knew through his son’s

scouting program, Scott Nettleton. Scott was interested but was busy developing the new Sellwood Bridge design. Despite this, over the next seven years, Scott and his CAD designer colleague, Jay Greene, developed a final plan with a pro bono effort valued conservatively at $40,000. In October 2009, the county held a public hearing for review of the county’s Conditional Use Permit application. Unlike the Conditional Use Permit hearing that was pending in 1998 to establish a hard rock quarry, this official hearing would identify the site stipulations to be fulfilled for land zoned as timber that would be used as a park. The “TBR” zoning designation of the site would not change, but the focus of the site would change from timber harvest to outdoor recreation. I provided testimony at the public hearing, and 34 conditions were identified for the park to open. First and foremost, the hearing confirmed onsite parking was a requirement—a major change from preclosure times, when climbers parked along Highway 224. Other conditions detailed the access road and parking construction requirements. Scott and Jay used the Conditional Use Permit directive and the 2009 Final Concept Plan as a starting point, and by July 2011 they created and delivered the initial “30% Plan” to Ugo DiLullo at the County Department of Transportation and Development (DTD) for review and comment. Eventually, they prepared a “90% Plan,” and in July 2016 Scott put his P.E. stamp on the final “100%” plan, meeting all requirements, and submitted it to the DTD. One of the early issues the county raised about climbing access was the risk of a suit by someone injured while climbing. Although we always considered this county argument a red herring to distract from their plans to quarry the cliff, we nonetheless had to confront it as an issue. With Chris Carey’s law background, we located Oregon Revised Statute 105.682 that an “owner of land is not liable in contract or tort for any personal injury, death or property damage that arises out of the use of the land for recreational purposes.” ORS 105.676 further states that it is a State of Oregon policy to “encourage owners of land to make their land available to the public for recreational purposes … by limiting their liability.” The statutes have been repeatedly upheld to affirm insulation


of local governments from liability matters resulting from recreational use and make Oregon unique. How else could a place like Smith Rock State Park stay open? By 2005, new County Counsel Stephen Madkour indicated that the county was no longer concerned with liability issues; what to do with the site was now a policy decision for the BCC. Meanwhile, in 2008 and 2010, as a goodwill gesture, MWPC organized four volunteer days at the Madrone Wall to remove illegally dumped rubbish and invasive species as well as to build trails. During these volunteer days, when over 800 hours of work valued at $17,000 was completed, the county provided one-time permission to volunteers for climbing on the afternoons of volunteer days only—a small but significant victory. REI and the Access Fund were big supporters of these trail-building projects, along with Josh Tomi of Climb Max Mountaineering, who rolled out the grill for some down-home BBQ for the hungry volunteers. In May 2010, we canceled plans for volunteer work after learning that peregrine falcons had taken up site habitation nesting on the Wall. Peregrines are amazing, crow-sized birds that are the fastest animal on Earth, reaching speeds up to 238 mph as they drop toward their prey. The peregrine population plummeted due to poisoning from DDT and other insecticides, leading to its listing as an endangered species in 1970. The population has since recovered and the species delisted; there is no longer any federal or state requirement to monitor them. The Migratory Bird Treaty Act (1918) is the basis for why land managers seasonally close many areas to recreational access to prevent failure of the eyrie caused by human behavior and/or to protect the eyrie from humans taking something from the nest. Climbers and other recreational groups continue to monitor them, as part of relationship-building efforts with land managers and to ensure that humans do not cause a failure of the eyrie by establishing appropriate opening and closure dates. In the case of Madrone Wall, a small crag with on-site parking directly below the nesting site, if peregrines are found nesting at the site, the entire park will be closed from February 1 to about July 15, until after the birds fledge, the same as

other climbing crags like Beacon Rock in the Columbia Gorge. In June 2010, Clackamas County issued Order No. 2010-70, the “Clackamas County Board of Commissioners dedicates the former Hardscrabble Quarry as Madrone Wall Park.” In 2011, County Parks had federal money available to support a fuel reduction program, which they decided to apply to Madrone Wall. We were encouraged by the show of interest in the site, and supported the effort by offering suggestions to reduce ladder fuels both below and above the wall. But there were also setbacks; in 2013, County Parks removed $64,000 provisionally allocated to Madrone Wall from a 2006 Metro open space bond measure (local government share) funds, allocating it instead to cover a cost overrun on the unrelated Springwater Corridor project. “Never give in, never give in, never, never, never, never—in nothing, great or small, large or petty—never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.” Winston Churchill, Address at Harrow School, October 29, 1941

Going up against City Hall seemed impossible at times, but we never forgot that people, individual people, make or break an outcome. We found and developed working partnerships with a new type of progressive county leader, including then Park Manager Rick Gruen and Commissioner Schrader, who internally championed the project. We took inspiration from David and Goliath stories, and from heroes like Tom McCall, David Brower, Yvon Chouinard, Martin Luther King Jr., and Theodore Roosevelt—who himself thought that future generations have as much right to enjoy public lands as contemporaries. I found inspiration in Bruce Springsteen’s live rendition of the Woodie Guthrie song “This Land is Your Land” (1980); in films like Ken Burns’ The National Parks: America’s Best Idea (2009); The Mountains Will Wait for You (2013); Ikiru (1952), about a Tokyo bureaucrat who finds meaning in creating a park after he is diagnosed with cancer; and, last but not least, Monumental: David Brower’s Fight for Wild America (2004). Monumental shows how American mountaineer David Brower used photography, film, the press, and mass communication to propel an

environmental movement that informed and rallied the public. He presented claims based on factual study to invalidate opponent positions, and he was able to find, persuade, and ally his vision with political leaders to eventually enact the 1964 Wilderness Act and stop plans to dam the Grand Canyon. Brower had a flair for advertisement: “Should we also flood the Sistine Chapel so tourists can get nearer the ceiling?” In 2005, we riffed off President Ronald Reagan’s Cold War rhetoric in Berlin with the advertisement in local newspapers: “Honorable Commissioners, DON’T Tear Down this Wall!” We took a page from the playbooks of pioneers like Thomas Moran and William Henry Jackson, whose paintings and photographs helped justify the establishment of the world’s first national park at Yellowstone, by taking photographs highlighting the beauty of Madrone Wall, its vistas, flora, and fauna, and showed them to people who had no idea this treasure existed in their backyard. It is a simple proposition: as people become more aware of natural treasures, they become something that matters to them, and they will work to protect them. We knew we had to gain a scientific understanding of the property so we could define what was at stake. In June 1999, we funded a plant survey with Portland State University biologists that determined this diverse site contained over 100 native plant species. In 2008, I surveyed the property and located six Douglas fir trees that had not been logged earlier that met the USFS definition of “old growth” (32 inches in diameter at breast height or greater than 200 years old). One of these giants is over five feet in diameter and over 200 feet tall! In my survey, I also identified 360 Pacific madrone trees, an uncommonly large stand of this tree species in the northern Willamette Valley which, itself, is a testament to unique geography and soil conditions. I submitted these Clackamas County Heritage Tree nominations but was flicked away by the county ostensibly because they were outside the UGB by one mile. It seemed shortsighted to me but I made my point. “There will always be something worth fighting for and something worth fighting against.” Edward Abbey

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Madrone, continued from previous page By 2015, the project had largely stalled. County Parks stipulated in September 2013 that an MOU (Memorandum of Understanding) was required between MWPC and County Parks for there to be progress. With the pro bono assistance of Chris Winter at Crag Law Center (now Executive Director at the Access Fund), we drafted an MOU and submitted it to the county, but it was inexplicably ignored for eight months with no response to repeated inquiry. Finally, a small group of advisors advocated taking the matter to Commissioner Schrader, who had returned to the BCC after a several-year absence and was the BCC liaison to the Park Advisory Board (PAB). I felt like this would be going over the heads of the County Parks officials with who I had to work productively, but given that nothing was happening anyway what did we have to lose? We made a detailed appeal to Commissioner Schrader for a meeting and she kicked the discussion to the PAB for review. The outcome was an April 2015 PAB meeting in which the future of the Madrone Wall park would be put on the balance, with an up or down vote at the PAB to either kill it or move forward. On behalf of the MWPC and the diverse interests we represented, I was allowed to be one of two people to submit an appeal at the meeting. With assistance from the Access Fund and the Mazamas, I also submitted 500 more recent letters, 55% of them from outside the county, asking Clackamas County to save Madrone Wall and make it a public park for tourism. Sam Drevo, friend and owner of Northwest River Guides/eNRG Kayaking in Oregon City, gave an impassioned speech to the PAB about the need for human-powered outdoor recreation and the prospect of new tourism to support Clackamas County. The PAB, led by Chair Rob Smoot and members like Mike Ferrell, was sympathetic to this and led the PAB to a unanimous vote to move forward with the park creation effort. Leading up to this pivotal PAB vote, I submitted an op-ed article that was picked up by the Clackamas Review appealing to county officials to move forward with a Madrone Wall county park. I received an email from new County Counsel Stephen Madkour, the office (and previous County Counsel) with which we had sparred over

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liability issues years before, indicating that the Clackamas County Tourism and Cultural Affairs (CCT&CA) might be a potential funding source. I had never heard of this agency and, apparently, County Parks had not considered it as a funding source either although it is located two floors below County Parks in the same county building. This agency allocates a small portion of Clackamas County’s lodging taxes in a competitive grant process to build out tourism infrastructure to, in turn, put more “heads in beds.” Mr. Madkour suggested I contact Peter Watts, then Vice Chair of the Clackamas County Tourism Development Council (TDC), the granting arm of CCT&CA. Peter is an intense, goal-focus attorney who volunteered time on the TDC. When we spoke, he communicated that the TDC did not want to fund a study; TDC was only interested in shovel-ready projects that could be finalized within a year to move the needle on increasing tourism in Clackamas County. We thought there could be a match. Peter, Angela Johnson (a paralegal Peter worked with), and I arranged to visit Madrone Wall in June 2015. Peter arrived directly from his law firm and was dressed to the nines, but gallantly climbed up the steep talus slope over a poor climber’s trail to the base of the Wall. He immediately recognized the value of this site as a regional tourist destination and asked how much would it take to make a park. I had worked with ODOT Road Construction Specialist Kevin Peterson to develop an engineering construction estimate, so told him roughly $200,000. He said, “No, what if you did everything?” I gave him the same number; “Look, the access road for the old Hardscrabble Quarry already exists; it must be resurfaced with aggregate and a parking lot must be created onsite, according to the Conditional Use Permit, along with a privy, concrete ADA parking pads, signage, gate, and trails.” This was not going to be a capital-intensive park with utilities and ball fields; “The county is not going to put in a gondola from Highway 224 to the top of the cliff.” Apparently, Peter had thought it could be a million-dollar effort divided up into multiple phases. Peter and Angela were encouraging. I approached County Parks about a TDC grant opportunity and agreed to ease

County Parks’ burden by ghostwriting a first draft of the grant application. Rick Gruen improved the draft and submitted the final application. By November 2015, the application was approved for an $88,590 grant. Coincidentally, out of the blue, earlier that summer MWPC was approached by two (anonymous) families who asked what was needed to get this project done and a park opened. I told them: “Cash, significant and serious amounts of cash”. The two families committed to funding up to $50,000 and $10,000, respectively. These large donations could not have come at a more opportune time because the pending TDC grant stipulated that the grant had to be matched. MWPC directly committed to $20,000, which included our own fundraising as well as a collection of grants from the Mazamas, the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, and REI. So, collectively, we brought $80,000 to the table. Gruen, true to his word, restored the $64,000 that had been removed from an earlier provisional Madrone Wall Park allocation and committed it to the project, for a total maximum project cost of $232,590. I also did the ghostwriting of the first draft of the application to the Oregon Army National Guard, a packet amounting to over 100 pages. Gruen improved this draft and submitted the final application in June 2015. In May 2016, after seven years of working with the Guard, the State Adjutant General, Major General Michael E. Stencel, signed off on the construction project. The Guard essentially told me, “We are now committed to this project, so make sure you have a pile of aggregate waiting to do the job when we show up in August!” Easily one of the most enjoyable aspects of the 20year journey was working with the Guard— they had a can-do, gung-ho attitude! In January 2016, the BCC asked for a financial review of the operational costs of the proposed park. Gruen formulated operational costs against projected revenues, and he and Gary Barth presented this to the BCC in March 2016. The results showed that the park would be a net revenue generator, with parking fees set at the same level as other county parks. Separately, using a National Park Service money generation model to determine the economic impact of tourism, I submitted


Madrone Wall. Photo: Keith Daellenbach

calculations to the BCC showing an annual increase in spending at local rural businesses of $143,000. It was another unnerving meeting on March 1, 2016, with one last vote to either move forward with the park or kill it. I thought “How could we be at this point where killing the project is even on the table?!” Fortunately, the BCC (John Ludlow–R, Tootie Smith–R, Paul Savas–R, Martha Schrader–D, and Jim Bernard–D) voted unanimously to “move forward with the development and construction of the Madrone Wall project.” I walked out of that meeting knowing that the tipping point of this long effort had arrived; the county would not retreat on this project now. I called my wife, Amy, from inside my car at the parking lot of the Clackamas County Public Services Building. We celebrated on the phone. Then I picked up our son from

school and gave him the great news. “Heroes are not giant statues framed against a red sky. They are people who say: This is my community, and it’s my responsibility to make it better.” Former Oregon Governor Tom McCall

The rest is, as they say, history. There was a completed engineering construction plan, money to fund the plan, and a source of skilled pro bono labor to execute the plan. A platoon of National Guard soldiers led by 1st Lieutenant Kamie Blevins, along with their heavy road-building machinery and know-how, showed up as promised in August 2016. In 16 days the soldiers worked to create the access road and parking area. Fortunately, that summer was a very mild wildfire season (unlike the following summer with the Chetco Bar and Eagle Creek fires), and the

soldiers were not called to other duties. “Support Our Troops” is a familiar refrain, however, unless we actually do that, it rings hollow for me. Instead, these exceptional Oregon citizen-soldiers gained practical knowledge of using heavy equipment that would be useful should they be deployed, while County Parks and citizens will enjoy the fruits of their labor for generations. The estimated value of the Guard’s pro bono labor was $57,000. County Parks put the soldiers up at Barton Park, and MWPC hosted a full-on BBQ celebration for the Guard and the County Parks staff on the freshly created parking lot as they completed their work. In November 2016, with Clackamas County Parks and the Trailkeepers of Oregon, we organized three full weekends of volunteering to build 500 yards of two new trails and 270 rock steps from the

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Madrone, continued from previous page new parking lot to the base of the Wall and then along the base. Over six days, 120 volunteers showed up and logged over 750 hours of volunteer time, valued at $16,000 for the county! The Mazamas, the Access Fund, Portland Mountain Rescue, the Washington Trails Association, and Metro all pitched in. Our long effort depended on fostering working partnerships with many public servants. To be honest, navigating a grinding ground game against an array of bureaucratic tactics including postponement, obfuscation, outright hostility, and stalling was not fun. Being a volunteer band of committed zealots on a shoestring budget, however, we were able to outlast and, in some cases, outlive our opponents. We were not going anywhere and could not be fired. We built coalitions with progressive county leaders, citizens, climbers, rural CPOs, the City of Damascus, the Oregon Army National Guard, politicians like U.S. Senators Ron Wyden, Jeff Merkley, and Gordon Smith, U.S. Congressman Earl Blumenauer, and State Representative Brent Barton, engineer planners like Scott Nettleton and Jay Greene at T. Y. Lin International, Metro, large businesses like REI and Patagonia, local businesses like Still Meadow Community, Carver Store, and Carver Hangar, climbing gyms and climbing organizations like the Mazamas, the Ptarmigans, the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, and the American Safe Climbing Association, grant agencies like Clackamas County Tourism and Cultural Affairs, generous individual donors, the Meyer Memorial Trust, the Jubitz Family Foundation, trail builders like the Trailkeepers of Oregon, scouts, schools, churches, and many, many others. To all of you, thank you! We are truly and forever grateful. “If future generations are to remember us more with gratitude than sorrow, we

must achieve more than just the miracles of technology. We must also leave them a glimpse of the world as God really made it, not just as it looked when we got through with it.” President Lyndon B. Johnson, remarks at the bill signing establishing the Assateague Island Seashore National Park (Maryland), September 21, 1965

In 1997, Bill Clinton was president and the internet was in its infancy; now Donald Trump is president. In October 1997, NASA launched the Cassini spacecraft to Saturn; just shy of twenty years later, Cassini plunged into Saturn’s atmosphere in a final scientific quest. These were bookends of the Madrone Wall preservation project. It took less time, 14 years, in fact, to create Mount Rushmore. At times, I sacrificed time spent with my wife and our young son Micah, now 12, as well as time actually climbing with my friends. I attended hundreds of meetings, made hundreds of phone calls, and sent thousands of emails. It was worth it. In the grand scheme of things, our fight was but a blink of an eye in the geologic time it took to create this treasure. Growing up in semi-rural Benton County and exploring its forests, fields, creeks, and ponds formed me. Conservation and a reverence for wildlands connect the core of my soul to a Creator and to Creation, to something bigger than me, to something that will outlast my time on Earth. It is so easy, especially living in a city, to be cut off from those primal elements of Nature to which we are all inexorably linked. Without access to wild places, where will the next generation of land stewards come from? It is to future generations, like Micah, that I dedicate my preservation effort. Long after I’m gone, I hope he and succeeding generations will wonder at their own place in Creation, challenge themselves on hikes and rock climbs, make new friends, and learn from Nature. I am looking forward

to heading out to the Madrone Wall Park and teaching Micah to rock climb at this beautiful site. This is ultimately what sustained me through the many years when it felt like we were getting nowhere. Our idea of a public park prevailed. I predict this site will someday anchor a future east side big park along the lower Clackamas River bluffs that will rival Forest Park on the west side of Portland. In our modern world, where it is easy to become distracted by myriad forms of entertainment, I encourage you to find your own ways to give back, in small or large ways, find ways to apply your own passion and intelligence to worthy causes, and work to preserve the many gifts we have of wild places. For all those activists out there, don’t lose heart, keep fighting the good fight, never, never give up, and good luck!

Epilogue: As we transition to a new name, Madrone Wall Conservancy, our non-profit, all-volunteer stewardship organization will continue working with Clackamas County Parks as an advocacy partner to assist with park operations. This could mean, but is not limited to, helping to organize volunteer trail building and maintenance, removing invasive plant species, conducting recreational user studies, assisting with countyled peregrine falcon monitoring, and providing community and educational outreach to benefit and enhance this county resource. For purposes of historic reference, the documents, dioramas, and materials of the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee’s fight to preserve this amazing civic treasure will be donated to the Mazama Library to serve as a record for a successful preservation effort.

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s a m a z a M A history of the

in objects

by Mathew Brock

T

he Mazama Library and Historical Collections has for over 40 years collected artifacts, documents, and photographs from the organization’s exploits and adventures around the Pacific Northwest. In honor of the Mazamas 123rd Anniversary, we present an abridged history using 10 important objects from Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

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10 Objects, continued from previous page

1894–1904: Photograph, Cooper Spur party nearing summit of Mt. Hood, July 19, 1894

1

Taken on the afternoon of July 19, 1894 by Charles C. Lewis, the photograph captures the climbers' enthusiasm and embodies the spirit of the Mazamas. In the photograph, George Williams holds an alpenstock with arm upraised. For many years, the original photograph hung behind the counter of his drug store in Hood River. After he passed away, the Mazamas acquired the photograph. Early reproductions of the image removed the climber bent over the snow cornice due to the indecent nature of their pose and the position of the fixed rope. The members of the Cooper Spur party became part of the 153 men and 38 women who gained the summit that day to found the Mazamas. VM 1993.011 George Williams Collection.

2

1905–1915: Vest pocket camera More than first ascents or daring climbs, photography captured the public's imagination and drove early interest in mountaineering. The development of smaller and cheaper hand-held cameras in the late 1880s introduced a new form of personal photography that focused more on action and less on the landscape. Photography was one of a few “professions” deemed acceptable for Victorian ladies and female climbers, who were key to the growth of mountaineering photography. Women mountaineers exhibited their photographs in galleries and exhibitions, helping to increase public interest in mountaineering. The 1901 Mazama Annual features four pages of advertisements for cameras, highlighting the growing importance of photography to the Mazamas and mountaineering. The rise in the number of photographs in alpine journals, including the Mazama Annual, points to the increasing value that mountaineers placed on photographs to help tell their story. By the end of the 19th century, climbing and photography had become interconnected. O1986.111.003 Kirk Mulder Collection.

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1916–1929: Monthly Bulletin, Issue No. 1, May 1923 By the early 1920s, membership in the Mazamas had reached 600 and the organization was starting to experience growing pains. More members meant more activities and multiple means of communication. The organization was printing and mailing separate schedules, prospectuses, event flyers, meeting announcements, and election materials, all at increasing cost. In 1922, Harold Babb proposed establishing a Mazama monthly. The goal was simple: to publish all the upcoming events and news in one convenient location, so members could stay up to date. The first issue of the Mazama Bulletin, as it has been known ever since, appeared in May of 1923. Interest and demand was high. The June issue held an announcement that subscriptions would be opened to non-members at a cost of $0.50 per year in response to demand. The establishment and wide distribution of information about the Mazamas via the Bulletin helped issue in an era of membership growth that would hold until the onset of the Great Depression in the fall of 1929. MA06.08 Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

4

3

1930–1941: Climbing Committee, minutes from the first climbing study group meeting, May 1933 In 1933, a movement calling for better climbs that had been building for several years came to a head. The Local Walks Committee was struggling under organizing 53 weekly hikes and dozens of mountain climbs. The council formed a study group to take charge of all mountain climbs except those associated with the Annual Outing. The idea stirred strong feelings both for and against the new endeavor. One member of the study group proposed an amendment to the bylaws creating a real Climbing Committee, a move the Executive Council deferred to the upcoming Annual Meeting. The new climbing study group caught on with the membership, and by June the pressure was intense enough that the council granted “temporary” status to the new committee. Unconvinced, many old-timers voiced concern for such a revolutionary change to the organization’s climbing philosophy and procedures. The new committee worked hard to establish goals and guidelines governing climb leader qualifications and sponsored climbs. In the limited time granted them, the committee engineered 12 successful climbs and generated great enthusiasm within the rank and file membership for their accomplishments. As a result, the bylaw amendment making the committee permanent passed at the Annual Meeting with ease. The origin of the Climbing Committee gave rise to much of the modern Mazamas. All the current education programs grew from the original goal of training and outfitting climbers. The Mazama Climbing School, a precursor to today’s Basic Climber Education Program, began to instill new climbers with the foundational knowledge and skills to be safe on the mountain. Intermediate and advanced courses were added to enable established climbers to learn more advance skills. Thanks to the establishment of the Climbing Committee, the number of official Mazama climbs increased steadily year after year from a dozen or so to the nearly 200 yearly climbs offered today. MA03.04.01 Climb Committee Records.

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1942–1953: Carabiner, U.S. Army Mountain and Cold Weather Training Command World War II was a boon to mountaineers. Military scientists developed nylon and the army experimented with making ropes from the new materials. Nylon, they soon discovered, was less likely to break, stronger when wet, and provided better stretch than the hemp ropes in use at the time. In 1939, Vitale Bramani, an Italian climber, developed a new sole for boots that he named for himself, Vibram. The soles gripped better on slippery surfaces and lacked the cold-conducting hobnails then in widespread use. The Army's famed 10th Mountain Division worked with ice axes, pitons, hammers, tents, and sleeping bags, many of them U.S. designs based on European products. The war generated a surplus of military gear of all types. Especially important were mountain boots, ropes, pitons, hammers, and carabiners (then known as snap links). When World War II ended, Mazamas returned home and the pent-up desire for mountaineering burst forth like a wave. Wartime rationing ended in August of 1945 and the first postwar automobiles rolled off a Detroit assembly line in October of 1945. Soon, the road up to Government Camp was crowded again. Climbers and mountaineers benefited from improvements in the quality of mountain and cold weather clothing, equipment, and food. Carabiners, adopted by airborne forces to secure static parachute lines to safety cables inside the airplanes, were produced in large quantities using good quality metal. After the war, the surplus carabiners benefited the entire climbing community. ca 1950, O1989.152.005, Dale Gallagher Collection.

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1954–1965: Mountain Goat, carved by Carl Sakrison

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In early December 1959, catastrophe struck the Mazamas when their magnificent mountain lodge burned to the ground. Several items survived the blaze, including six dining room chairs, an upright piano, and a carved mountain goat. An investigation found that a wiring short in the caretaker's quarters caused the blaze. The loss of the lodge brought to a head a controversy that had been brewing for years between two Mazama factions. On one hand was a group advocating for a new clubhouse. Starting in 1955, a vocal group of Mazamas began pushing for a permanent home. A survey of the membership that year showed three-quarters of the members supported the idea, but only if the club could afford it. After the fire, the "Clubhouse Now" advocates argued that the Mazamas should abandon the idea of rebuilding the lodge and concentrate on a new headquarters immediately. On the other hand was a group of members who advanced the idea that the Mazamas was more of a social club with mountaineering interests. They based their case on the fact that more members attended the various outings, hikes, and events than ever went mountain climbing. They believed that a new home on the mountain was more important than a permanent home in town. As the antagonism grew between the two groups, the Executive Council took action and surveyed the membership. An amazing 66 percent of the membership favored rebuilding the lodge as soon as possible. The council took the results as a mandate. They disbanded the Clubhouse Building Committee, closed down its fund-raising activities, and moved forward on rebuilding the lodge. The move broke the opposition and a few of the ardent clubhouse advocates resigned. The new, and current, Mazama Lodge opened 18 months after the fire with a ceremony that featured an open-pit barbecue and fireworks. ca 1930, Mazama Lodge.


1966–1977: Chouinard Piolet ice axe Yvon Chouinard is a craftsman and a diligent student of his craft. In the 1950s and 1960s, he studied pitons and then redesigned them to be more efficient. He traveled to Europe to study ice climbing techniques and then adapted the ice axe with revolutionary results. His innovation was simple yet profound: "He drooped the pick on the ice axe so that when swung it would stick in the ice rather than shatter it, as all ice axes had done before," wrote Doug Robinson. The result was the ability for a climber to make a direct pull up while holding the shaft. Before Chouinard's innovation, a traditional axe pick was usually straight and pulling resulted in the axe popping out of the ice. Using one of the new curved tools in each hand, a climber could advance up steep ice rapidly, placing the axes, pulling up, removing a tool, and inserting it higher up. Robinson noted that "ice climbing suddenly jumped to vertical and beyond." As a result of Chouinard’s technical advancements, Mazamas and mountaineers around the world were safer and more confident in their mountaineering. Ice climbing, as a stand-alone activity, also grew in prominence due to Chouinard's advancements. ca 1970, O2000.378.001 Brian Holcomb Collection.

1978–1989: A Climbers Guide to the Smith Rocks, Vol. XLIV, No. 13, Dec. 1962 On January 1, 1960, three Mazamas—Vivian Staender, Dave Bohn, and Jim Fraser—made the first ascent of Monkey Face at Smith Rock. Later that year, the Oregon State Highway Department created Smith Rock State Park. In 1962, the Mazamas published the first-ever guidebook to the area, A Climbers Guide to the Smith Rocks. Together, these three events helped establish Smith Rock as an Oregon climbing destination and put it on track for national prominence. Early climbers at Smith focused on peak-bagging and pinnacle climbing. Longtime Mazama George Cummings pioneered both Rattlesnake Chimney and Western Chimney in 1963. Over the next several years Cummings, Dave Jensen, and a host of others established many of the routes still in use today. The decade ended with Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz climbing Picnic Lunch Wall in 1969, an event that marked the crowning jewel of big-wall climbing at Smith. The 1970s marked the golden age of climbing at Smith Rock. Aid climbing still dominated the sport while free climbing was coming of age. Smith Rock might have remained off the radar for many if not for the efforts of Jeff Thomas. "During a prolific period in the mid-to-late 1970s, Thomas dominated Smith climbing like none before him; his name became synonymous with Oregon free climbing." He established grade 5.11 and redefined Smith Rock climbing. For the better part of the decade, he pioneered a steady stream of new routes. Climbing at Smith Rock changed rock climbing in Oregon and within the Mazamas. From the beginning of the Mazamas, rock climbing was something that was done as a part of mountaineering, not as a sport unto itself. It was a means to ascend rocky mountain outcrops while wearing boots. The development of rock climbing at Smith Rock helped the Mazamas embrace rock climbing as a sport. Climbing went from a fringe subculture activity to a widespread and accepted sport. Besides, the nearness of Smith Rock and Horsethief Butte allowed for the growth of Mazama educational classes. And without the easy access to both Smith and Horsethief, the Mazamas Advanced Rock classes would have been difficult, if not impossible. Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

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1990–2001: La Sportiva climbing shoes

9 2002–2017: “Statement of Philosophy and Criteria,” New Mazama Clubrooms, Nov. 14, 1995 The Mazamas have had several homes over the past 123 years. Early in history, members met in various halls and meeting rooms. The Executive Council held meetings in members' homes and offices. Between 1914 and 1956, the Mazamas rented office space in several buildings around town. In 1957, overcrowding and lack of parking prompted the organization to move to 909 NW 19th and Kearney. Efforts over the years to buy a building for the office and growing library never got off the ground. There was often an event or incident, such as the lodge fire, that drew attention and funds away from the effort to build or buy a new facility. For fifty years the Mazamas stayed in the 19th Avenue building, remodeling and renovating the space to meet the demands of a growing membership. In the late 1990s, the need for more space arose again. A small working group was formed to research a new space. In November of 1995, the Executive Council circulated a “Statement of Philosophy and Criteria” outlining the needs of a new headquarters space. In 2005, the focus shifted to an old church and former fraternal brotherhood hall on SE 43rd Avenue. In 2007, after some renovations, the Mazamas moved in. The Mazama Mountaineering Center has given the organization the solid foundation it needed to grow into the non-profit educational organization it is today. MA01.09.01, Executive Council Records, Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

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The history of indoor climbing walls began in 1964 in a hallway at Leeds University in the United Kingdom. Don Robinson noticed that climbers would end the climbing season strong in October only to return the next spring out of shape, out of practice, and prone to accidents. He replicated the most common climbing moves on a brick wall, and soon climbers had not only mastered his simple routes but were inventing new routes and games. By 1987, the fascination with indoor climbing had spread to the United States. During a climb of Aconcagua, Rich Johnston struck on the idea of creating a place for climbers to stay in shape after work and during the winter. Later that year he and a partner opened Vertical World in Seattle, the first indoor climbing wall in the United States. A year later, Portland Rock Gym opened in Portland. By the early 1990s, indoor climbing was catching on with Mazamas of all ages and abilities. Indoor gyms offered a safe, warm, and dry environment for climbers to stay in shape, hone their skills, and try new techniques. The gyms became a place to meet people, and a singles scene developed. Families started hosting birthday parties at climbing gyms, introducing a younger generation to the sport. Come spring, many Mazamas were in shape and ready to hit the crags at Smith Rock, Beacon Rock, and beyond. The indoor climbing walls helped rock climbing evolve from a sport for bold, skilled climbers toward a sport accessible to everyone. ca 1998, O1998.345.026, Terry Becker Collection.

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Family Hiking and Climbing in Germany, Switzerland, & Italy by Keith Daellenbach

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In the summer of 2017, my wife, Amy, our 11-year old son, Micah, and I went on a 24-day tour through Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy. Both Amy and I had been to Europe on several occasions and, over the years, had developed a sense for what we could do beyond the obvious tourist targets. Micah is an athletic and inquisitive boy, so getting him outside was a must.

We arrived in one of my favorite places, Munich in the Free State of Bavaria. The splendid Gothic Zwiebel (onion) domes of the Frauenkirche soar above the Bavarian capital of art and culture nestled in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. The Isar, a tributary of the Danube, flows through the center of this atmospheric city of lovely parks and museums. We met up with one of my all-time heroes and friend, Professor Doctor Walter Welsch, who mentored me in our study of glacial mechanics—and life—while on the Juneau Icefield of southeast Alaska while I was an undergraduate engineering student at Oregon State University. Walter, an engineer, intrepid mountaineer (he led the first ascent of the Moose’s Tooth in the Alaska Range in 1964), and

Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks) Nature Park. Photo: Keith Daellenbach

philosopher, met us in town at the Hofbräuhaus, an almost 500-year-old beer hall at which he found a secluded outside veranda for a truly memorable evening of Hefeweizen and gemütlichkeit. Along with some other family friends from the area, we visited the astonishing BMW plant, Klaus Blachnitzky’s grave in Penzberg (a friend and fellow researcher; see: “First Ascent of Mount Blachnitzky and Peak 6,500 foot on Juneau Icefield,” Mazama Annual, 2004), attended Holy Mass in the Rococo masterpiece Wiesckirche, swam in the Plansee of Austria, and visited King Ludwig II’s extravagant Schloss Neuschwanstein and his more personal escape at Linderhof, deep in the Bavarian Alps. We then deployed our Swiss Rail Pass and made our way

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Family, continued from previous page around the eastern toe of Bodensee (Lake Constance) heading for the mountains of the Alpstein south of St. Gallen. There, we were greeted by another friend and past colleague. We hiked from the last rail station in the valley above Appenzell roughly 4 miles and almost 3,500 feet up through the bucolic Alps, past small farms, brown Swiss cows, Sealpsee—a beautiful turquoise mountain lake—and, continuing up onto a high ridge, to the mountain inn Berggasthaus Schäfler. As fortune would have it, we arrived at Schäfler on August 1, Nationalfeiertag (Swiss National Day), during which the country goes wild with fireworks and barn-sized bonfires. I’ve always loved a roaring fire, and the Swiss did not disappoint. We enjoyed a large blaze high on an Alpstein ridge long into the night, fireworks blazing in the distance in the towns and villages below. Micah remarked, “When I get to college, I’m coming back, picking up wood in a backpack, and helping make the blaze.” Our paternal name, Dällenbach, is Swiss— we felt right at home. The next day, we hiked another five miles along a ridge, through meadows of alpine wildflowers and past spires of dramatically folded layers of rock, then over the Blaushnee snowfield and finally up the steep, cabled Himmelsleiter (“Heaven Ladder”) to the summit of Säntis. At 2,503 meters, this is the highest peak in the Alpstein range. It towers over the region with views into Switzerland, Germany, Austria, and Liechtenstein. On the summit are a large telecommunications tower and cafés fitting for a James Bond movie. Most importantly, there is a gondola in which we glided off the summit down nearly 4,000 feet. Next came Bern, where we set off to visit the hamlet of Otterbach, from which my ancestors emigrated 135 years ago to America, before traveling by train into the upper reaches of the Lauterbrunnen. We took a cog rail to Wengen then a gondola to Männlichen. From there, we made the easy 2.5-mile hike to Kleine Scheidegg perched just below the Eiger’s Nordwand, a truly inspiring sweep of rock and ice towering 6,000 feet above. The weather was decent, so we spent a small fortune to take the Jungfraujoch, an ingenious rail line that tunnels through the Eiger. The line has an observational stop at Eismeer, high on the flanks of the Eiger looking down on

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the Ischmeer Glacier, before stopping at the highest rail station in Europe at 3,571 meters. The station has a sweeping view down the largest glacier in Europe, the 13-mile-long Grosser Aletschgletscher. After weaving through the throng of tourists chilled in the mountain air, giddy no doubt from a combination of hypoxia and their first mountain “summit” view, we made our way down through the touristy glacial ice tunnel and onto the cog rail back to Kleine Scheidegg. From there, we hiked back down into the Lauterbrunnen Valley via Trümmelbach where we encountered a young steinbock (ibex). We stayed the night in Gimmelwald, a slice of alpine heaven with no vehicular traffic. Over delicious beer and pizza, we watched shafts of light linger on the nearby peaks at dusk. The next day, we hiked up the valley several hours to Oberhornsee, a small, out-of-the-way glacial lake, into which we plunged into the icy waters oh so briefly. Our final adventure in the Berner Oberland was to launch a tandem paraglide (each of us with an experienced guide from Airtime Paragliding) from above Mürren back to Stechelberg for a 15-minute flight down 2,800 feet. It was something I’ve always wanted to try, and it was spectacular and thrilling. Micah was nervous as the air replaced terra firma but quickly took it all in stride. Our next stop was Zermatt, the storied alpine climbing town at the base of the Matterhorn. Twenty-two years earlier, I made the pilgrimage there with my father, Charles, to attempt the Matterhorn (4,478 m) via Hörnligrat. It was July and the mountain was covered in ice—not even the guides were climbing it—so we made an ascent of the Mettlehorn, then Breithorn, then a bold ascent up the northwest ridge of Castor (4,228 m) along the border—left crampon in Switzerland, right in Italy. The mountain weather in the Swiss Alps had again thwarted my plans to climb that mountain of mountains, but I could not countenance being in Zermatt without at least trying to climb something. While no guide was heading up the icy Matterhorn, the Breithorn (4,164 m) seemed within our grasp during a small weather window. The three of us rented boots, crampons, and ice axes, and shot up and out of Zermatt (1,616 m) via a threestage gondola to the Klein Matterhorn (3,882 m). We hiked out across the

Breithorn glacial plateau on the border between Switzerland and Italy and up the south slope. This is generally an easy route, but it is a 13,000-foot ice mountain with some crevasses high on the slope. We soldiered on using our narrow-gauge canoe rope from home double-backed as our climbing “rope” and finally summited in a vicious, freezing wind. We had a brief break of blue sky above the clouds on the summit, for which we cheered, and then got out of there, back down to the safety of the gondola, over roofs of rock-slate chalets and farm buildings, and into Zermatt to celebrate. Since my undergraduate years some thirty years ago, I have always wanted to complete a via ferrata (“iron way”) in the Dolomites—“flames frozen in stone”—of the Süd Tirol in northeast Italy. I have been thwarted on two previous attempts to unlock the mystery of these mountains. This time, I was able to enlist the support of fellow Mazama adventurers Patrick Feeney, Jim Palo, and John Leary. These guys are great! They offered me suggestions, maps, guidebooks, and support. I am so grateful. I feel that in 2017 I finally cracked the Dolomite “code.” With limited time, I wanted to make the pilgrimage to Tre Cime (in the dual language tradition: Drei Zinnen or “Three Peaks”). The Dolomites are perhaps the most spectacular mountains I have ever seen and they should not be missed in this lifetime. These limestone spires and faces change in the light and at every turn in the trail offer yet another stunning view. We circumnavigated Tre Cime clockwise from Rifugio Auronzo, where we were dropped off by bus at the end of the road and made our way to our lodging at Dreizinnen Hütte (Rifugio Antonio Locatelli). The north faces of Tre Cime are sheer and imposing, reminding me of Yosemite’s big walls. One of my undergraduate college math professors climbed there with Layton Kor in the 1960s and shared pictures with me once. I was inspired, and seeing this in person with my family was a dream come true! The second day we had a decision to make: either take the hiking trail to our next night of lodging at Büllelejochhütte (Rifugio Pian di Cengia) or embark on the adventure of a Grade 2 (of 5), Seriousness B (of C) via ferrata up the north ridge of Paternkofel (Monte Paterno, 2,744 m) and


down its east ridge (Grade 1, Seriousness B). We had all the gear needed: helmets, harness, via ferrata lanyard, and bike gloves, yet I, over the course of the trip, had convinced myself that doing this via ferrata with two novice mountaineers would be too treacherous. As a point of fact, on a via ferrata, you are fully on your own since you are not tethered to another person by a rope as with a standard climb. Rather, you are tethered to a cable threaded through iron pegs affixed to the rock. If one makes the terrible mistake of not attaching the lanyard and falls, the consequences can very likely be deadly. All that said, Amy and Micah told me they wanted to go for it. They were brave or ignorant (or maybe both), but I eventually agreed and we started up the north ridge of Paterno, figuring we could always turn back if needed. This via ferrata actually starts up steps within the mountain, threading through spooky caves blasted out by Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces to gain the high ground during the ferocious battles of World War I. To this day, barbed wire, fortified lookouts, and tunnels are found throughout the region. Following Austria’s defeat, the region was transferred to Italy (hence the dual naming convention). The route continues up to the Forcella del Camoscio, where Amy took a break and Micah and I took the short optional detour to the summit of Paterno, which is marked with a sorrowful wooden crucifix. I noticed Micah developed increasing confidence and enthusiasm as we ascended and Amy, who abhors exposure, took to the outing with her calm inner strength and fortitude. I was truly amazed and proud as they took this on with alacrity. We descended the east ridge without incident in light rain for a second-night stay at Büllelejochhütte, which is heavenly in its peace, solitude, and cozy small size. The staff is friendly and the meals served were some of the best of our entire European tour. On the third day, we continued on the trail back to Rifugio Auronzo. Following our Dolomite adventure, we visited the dreamy city of Venice and then worked our way down the boot of Italy through my favorite city in the world, Florence, and on to Rome with all of its ancient and Baroque heritage including the Vatican. Our tour finished with a visit to Pompeii, for which Micah had completed a report and LEGO model in the third grade, and Herculaneum. I arranged for transportation up to the north side of

Keith, Micah, and Amy Daellenbach at Drei Zinnen National Park. Photo: Keith Daellenbach

Monte Vesuvio (Mount Vesuvius, 1,277 m) to the trailhead. The hike up to the crater rim is just over 500 feet in a little over a mile. It follows a narrow jeep trail and is not hard, yet offers sweeping views of Naples and the Mediterranean. Due to the geologic sensors on the summit, we were not allowed to proceed past the final gift shop on the crater rim to the tippy top, so we admired the view into the crater just below the final rise to the summit. Pompeii is a short 7 miles away as the crow flies or, perhaps I should say, as the ash cloud flies. It was inundated and then buried in 30 feet of ash by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Excavations started in 1748, and many of the treasures of Pompeii and Herculaneum are now in the Museo Archeologico in Napoli and should not be missed. For me, this was possibly a “perfect” vacation, for it involved all of my favorite

ingredients: Amy and Micah; a foreign destination with different culture, history, food, and language; lots of amazing museums, architecture, and history to explore; and a place to get out and into the mountains for some true adventure. On this tour, we visited several friends, which was a blessing and a highlight for which we are very grateful. Between some of Europe’s great cities, we spent time in the mountains and proved it is possible to make such a trip with an active and adventurous child.

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ICS Spouse

Survival Guide by Becky Nelson

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o your loved one is considering Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). When my husband announced his intentions last year to apply for ICS I wasn’t surprised—but I was a little worried.

We had made a Faustian bargain the year before: he would agree to move to my favorite city, Portland, if, and only if, I would sign up for a basic mountaineering course with him, which turned out to be the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). At the age of six, I had floated a similar bargain to my parents: I would agree to move to Arizona if, and only if, they bought me a hamster. Six weeks later, in Scottsdale, Busy Bob entered our lives. Despite a debilitating fear of heights and a distaste for anything remotely athletic—coordination is not my strong suit—I figured BCEP couldn’t be half as bad as owning a pet hamster. So we shook on it, moved to Portland, and six weeks later jumped into BCEP. And we had a total blast! But while I loved my BCEP experience, ICS felt like another beast altogether: a big, scary, massive time-suck of a class colorfully illustrated by intense photos, secondhand tall tales, and snarky warnings (including my favorite, “BCEP is where you find a partner, ICS is where you lose them.”) If I wasn’t ready to take the plunge myself, I was even less enthusiastic about watching my partner do so. Harry, on the other hand, was fearless. So I watched him apply, ace the test, and get accepted with trepidation in my heart (trepidation, requiring very little coordination). But we made it through the nine months of ICS and I’m happy to report, at least for us, the worry and the warnings did not come to fruition—we are even still

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married! So if you find yourself weighing whether to wholeheartedly support or wholeheartedly sabotage your loved one’s application, I encourage you to consider the five simple survival tips below. Follow them closely for a happy, productive, and dare I say enjoyable nine months as the spouse of an ICS student.

Survival Tip #1: Learn the Lingo

It can be tough to get your spouse’s attention when they’re full-throttle ICS, all the time. If you’re finding that real life pales in comparison to Defeating the Plaquette or Escaping the Belay, learn to compete by becoming fluent in mountaineering jargon. Imagine the excitement involved in Evacuating the Dishwasher, Exterminating the Dandelions, or Expurgating the Bedlinens!

Survival Tip #2: Anticipate Needs

After about 30 minutes with an ICS assistant, your partner’s definition of basic human needs will expand to include not just food, shelter, and water, but also things like a pink tricam and a second ice tool. This is great news for you! Not only will buying your spouse the random $8 carabiner bring profane amounts of irrational delight, but you are set up for the most straightforward holiday shopping

season ever (spoiler: you’re going to be buying those yellow La Sportiva boots.) Also, you’re going to need an air freshener for the car. Just trust me on this one. One of those pine tree jobbers will help make your partner (and their new dirty mountain friends) feel right at home.

Survival Tip #3: Practice Patience

It’s the defining truth of ICS abandonment that your partner will be out of the house a lot. Take advantage of this absence by teaching the dog, cat, or kid—your choice!—where their loyalty should lie. My dog and I had a great nine months hiking, snuggling, eating table scraps, wrestling on the upholstery, pooping on the lawn, burying bones under my husband’s pillow … you get the idea. I also recommend watching the trashiest options available on your partner’s Netflix account, thereby completely ruining the algorithm for all time. When you do see your partner, chances are good that you will be climbing. Prepare for a change in your typical climbing day. Pre-ICS may have consisted of a leisurely breakfast burrito, six solid hours of climbing, and a leisurely burger and beer before heading home. Post-ICS, you should come to expect a leisurely breakfast burrito


The author and her husband enjoying all the Pacific Northwest has to offer. Photos: Becky Nelson

(save half for lunch, the most valuable advice given in ICS), 5 hours and 45 minutes of intense discussion about the climbing anchor, 15 minutes of climbing, a fraught burger and beer over which there is more intense discussion about the climbing anchor, and guess what? More discussion on the drive home. Pack headphones.

Survival Tip #4: Accentuate the Positive

A few ICS hacks I learned this year: ICS is the perfect time to challenge your partner to a footrace with high stakes. Their confidence is high, their physical fitness incredibly low. For a course about mountaineering, there is very little actual mountaineering (or hiking, or really even walking) being done. ICS is also the perfect time to suggest a visit from your in-laws. Not only will there be no free weekends during which your partner can take you up on this very kind, oh-so-thoughtful, just the sweetest offer, but your guest room will also more closely resemble an REI garage sale staging ground than an actual room that people could sleep in. Your spouse’s baseline for “fun” will drop precipitously, and include things like intentionally falling off tall climbing walls, laying maimed on a snowy mountain for hours during first-aid scenarios, and drinking lukewarm Starbucks Vias. Dinner with your friends or seeing the latest Marvel monstrosity will seem positively rapturous by comparison. Use these hacks to your advantage.

also will be weirdly paranoid about failing their tests. By quizzing them, you are not only improving your lingo fluency (see survival tip #1), you are also essentially auditing the class for free. When you inevitably apply for ICS, you will be way ahead of the game. You will inherit, through very little effort on your part, cool new friends who have gone through nine months of serious vetting. And, most importantly, it is extremely likely that the beneficiary of all this newly minted rescue expertise will be you. After a year of hard work, your spouse will still not be able to pull themself out of a crevasse. But they will be able to pull your lazy bones out of a crevasse, or lower your broken bones down a pitch, or CPR your unresponsive bones back to life, or at the very least prevent the dog from burying any bones under your pillow. They will work hard all year to learn skills that will benefit all of their future climbing partners, including you. So it turns out that your loved one’s nine months of intense mountaineering training away from home really ends up being a selfless act of love and protection, and there’s no room whatsoever for resentment or regret. Of course, the best way to pay that forward, or perhaps exact your revenge, is to apply for ICS yourself.

Author Bio:

Becky Nelson has been a member of the Mazamas since 2016. In addition to this, her Bulletin debut, she writes several emails a day.

Survival Tip #5: Don’t Keep Score

It may be framed as a year of sacrifice for the spouse that’s been “left behind,” but there are actually many benefits of ICS that will come to you through the hard work of your partner. Though they will be eating, sleeping, and breathing ICS, they

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Trip Report: Cathedral Peak & Climber Stewards in Yosemite by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager

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tep by step through the forest, a type of silent meditation, I watched my thoughts come and go. One remained poignant—the legend of John Muir, which for many people is a faint and murmured hymn just as fleeting as Yosemite’s glaciers. Do people think about Muir when they visit Yosemite? Why or why not? And do they know about the glaciers that once capped the High Sierras? Both Muir and the glaciers are vanishing.

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Such concepts were juxtaposed in my mind but more relevant thoughts often took hold, such as trying to not fall into horse crap while hiking along the John Muir Trail (JMT). The elevation and lack of oxygen at that point had me feeling like a strange, red-throated sloth-hermit crab hauling loads of gear and tools into the Wilderness. I was in a conga line of 14 other climber stewards headed for Upper Cathedral Lake (9,585 feet) to perform four days of trail work. This trek was part of the sixth annual Mazama Climber Steward trip to Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows and parts of the High Sierras. We were there to help restore climber trails eroded by overuse due to the popularity of rock climbing in the park. The team’s destination and trail project was the “climber’s descent trail” along the east flanks of Cathedral Peak (10,916 feet); the famous summit that was first climbed by Muir on September 7, 1869. Coincidentally, it was on September 6, 2018, that we departed Tuolumne Meadows via the JMT to set up a base camp for four days. Our plan, simple yet heavy, was to carry food, water and filters, shelter, climbing gear, and trail tools for 3.5 miles to the alpine lake. It’s worth noting that each climber steward was responsible for proper human-waste disposal in accordance with Leave No Trace backpacker ethics. Once we arrived at Upper Cathedral Lake, we set up camp and

then hiked another mile to the worksite, scouted the project, commenced a bit of rock work, and then cached the tools for the next morning. Temperatures dropped a few degrees below freezing each night, but the rugged group of Mazamas, including two park rangers and one Yosemite trail crew member, enjoyed the alpine air with its hoarfrost sprinkled about the lake’s meadow flora each morning. We seemed to thaw back to life as the range of light increased slowly with sunrise, eventually warming the camp and creating a listlessness before work. For four days, the 2018 Mazama Climber Steward group took things to another level in terms of trail crew work. Our non-recreational visit was very different from other volunteer groups and trail crew workers in Yosemite. It is not typical that a group of volunteers or paid staff camp and work in the backcountry for four days, carrying all supplies and tools and operating on a high-angle, high-elevation work site. Park Ranger Cameron King (project leader with the Climber Steward program) commented that such a difficult project was only possible because Yosemite National Park staff trusts the Mazamas to show up and contribute stellar work on popular climber trails. The fragile alpine environment where the Cathedral Peak nunatak (an isolated mountain peak that once projected

through a continental ice sheet or an alpine-type ice cap) is located is resilient but not without limits. That’s why a wellworn trail with clear delineation and all-season rock-stair construction can help reduce the impact from climbers and hikers. Our project was approved by Yosemite National Park and is currently unfinished. As we concluded our final day of work, we looked at sections of trail that were uncompleted and eroded. The Mazama Climber Stewards have plenty of trail tending and construction to do in this area of Yosemite. And while we may not remember exactly who John Muir was and why he climbed high in the Sierras, and we may not think about climate change and melting glaciers, one thing is certain— Climbing impacts continue to increase in fragile ecosystems due to the popularity of the sport, and the efforts of the Mazamas can make a big difference toward a more sustainable recreation program for our favorite climbing areas.

Left page: Trail work in Yosemite during the 2018 Yosemite Trail Stewards week. Above: Retreat of the Lyell Glacier from 1883 to 2015.

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Beaten Backpack

Off the

Three Fantastic Backpacking Trips for the Discerning Backpacker

by Matt Reeder

S

o you couldn’t get a permit for the Enchantments or the Wonderland Trail? Maybe you’ve done the Timberline Trail several times and want a new challenge? You aren’t alone. Every year, I hear from my friends in the outdoor community about the difficulty of securing permits to cherished spots and their desire to find backpacking trips that aren’t completely overwhelmed with people or require complicated planning stretching over several days. Thankfully, there are many other places to backpack. Great places! I’ve spent the last several years researching my three hiking guidebooks: Off the Beaten Trail, 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mt. Jefferson Region, and PDX Hiking 365. I’ve had the opportunity to do some truly amazing backpacking expeditions, from short overnighters at

Bull of the Woods Wilderness. Photo: Matt Reader

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nearby lakes to longer treks through remote and forbidding wilderness areas. Presented here are three relatively obscure trips sure to satisfy all of you who can’t or don’t want to backpack the Timberline Trail, the Wonderland Trail, or the Enchantments.

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Backpacking, continued from previous page Big Slide Lake and Bull of the Woods While it isn’t full of the kind of alpine splendor found on Mt. Hood or Mt. Rainier, the Bull of the Woods Wilderness is a peaceful and inviting destination for backpacking, from one-day trips to longer loops that touch all of the high points of the area, both literal and figurative. The only issue with visiting this area is that many of the trailheads are at the far end of long, winding gravel roads that test the patience of many drivers. This long but rewarding trek to Big Slide Lake and up to Bull of the Woods is easy to find, easy to follow, and leads hikers to a beautiful lake deep in the wilderness. Hikers desiring a mountain view can continue 2 miles to the summit of Bull of the Woods, where the view stretches from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. Beginning at the trailhead, follow the Dickey Creek Trail on the remains of an abandoned road for a half mile. The trail then descends steeply into Dickey Creek’s deep canyon, leveling out in a classic cathedral forest of ancient Douglas fir. The trail meanders along the valley bottom, passing a pond, until it reaches a crossing of Dickey Creek at about 3.5 miles from the trailhead. Make your way across the creek, which is generally easy in summer, and begin gaining elevation on the far side. The trail climbs up the forested slopes of Dickey Creek’s upper canyon, crossing a huge talus slope at the base of Big Slide Mountain’s cliffs. Reach a short side trail to Big Slide Lake at a little over 6 miles from the trailhead. Take the short spur trail down to the lake. Big Slide Lake is shallow but beautiful, with a lovely green color and an adorable island in the middle of the lake. The best campsites are on the lake’s west side, where you should be able to find a place of your own with space and privacy. Once you’ve set up camp, take the time to hike 2 miles uphill, turning right

Big Slide Lake. Photo: Matt Reeder

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DIRECTIONS:

▶ From Portland, drive southeast on OR 224 approximately 20 miles to Estacada. ▶ From Estacada, drive southeast on OR 224 for approximately 25 miles to the old guard station at Ripplebrook. ▶ Just past Ripplebrook, OR 224 becomes FR 46. Continue straight on FR 46 for 4.2 miles from Ripplebrook to a junction with FR 63. ▶ Turn right onto FR 63, following signs for Bagby Hot Springs. ▶ Drive this 2-lane paved road for 3.5 miles to a junction with FR 70, signed for Bagby Hot Springs. Ignore this turnoff and continue straight on FR 63. ▶ Drive another 2.1 miles on FR 63 to a junction with FR 6340 on your right. ▶ Turn right on this gravel road and drive 0.6 miles to a junction, where you keep straight. ▶ Continue on FR 6340 another 2.1 miles to a junction with FR 140 with a sign for the Dickey Creek Trail. Turn left here. ▶ Drive this narrow, rocky road for 1 mile to a T-junction. The trailhead is on the right, but the best parking is on the left. There is also room for a couple of cars on the shoulder FR 140 about 20 yards before the junction.


at every junction, to the Bull of the Woods Lookout, where the view is magnificent. Some exploration on the summit will reveal different vantages, a historic outhouse, and views down to Big Slide Lake. The lookout tower, no longer used and closed to the public, is in poor shape—use caution when walking along the platform at the tower. Hikers desiring a longer backpacking trip have many options, but a lack of trail maintenance has made some of these options less attractive. Perhaps the best idea is to continue west from Bull of the Woods to a pass above Pansy Lake, and then descend the Mother Lode Trail 4.5 miles to beautiful Battle Creek Flats, at its confluence with Elk Lake Creek. Making a loop is possible either by hiking up the Elk Lake Creek Trail to Elk Lake and returning via the Bagby Trail and Twin Lakes, or by hiking downstream along Elk Lake Creek and returning via the Welcome Lakes and West Lake Way Trails to Bull of the Woods. This latter option to Welcome Lakes is among the worst-maintained trails in the area and is not recommended. Consult a topographic map if you’re planning on making a longer loop here.

Heart of the Jeff Loop

Above: Marion Falls in the heart of the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. Photo: Matt Reeder

Hikers looking for a multi-day alternative to the Timberline Trail will find few better options than this multi-day backpack around the south side of the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. Since it is impossible to circumnavigate Mt. Jefferson (due to the Warm Springs Reservation, the lack of a trail on the east side, fire damage, and impassible cliffs and gorges, among other things), this circuit hits many of the high points in one of Oregon’s most beautiful wilderness preserves. The time is right so go now—next year a complicated permit system will likely come into effect, making this area much more difficult to visit. The trek starts at the crowded Marion Lake Trail, climbing gently 1.7 miles to a fork just before you reach the lake. Both

trails go to the lake, but keep left for the shortest and most direct route. At a fork at the lake’s edge, keep left and hike along the north shore. Views stretch across the huge backcountry lake south to Three Fingered Jack. Reach a junction with the Lake of the Woods Trail at 2.5 miles, where you turn left. Follow the Lake of the Woods Trail north to a junction with the Swallow Lake Trail and turn right. This trail passes by Swallow Lake before climbing steeply to the foot of South Cinder Peak at 8 miles. Take the time to follow the short spur trail here to the summit of the peak, where the 360-degree view stretches out to the far horizon, from Mt. Hood to the Three

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Backpacking, continued from previous page Sisters and everything in between. From here, return to the Swallow Lake Trail and reach a four-way junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and Shirley Lake Trail. Cross the PCT and turn onto the Shirley Lake Trail. Hike north 1.5 miles to Carl Lake, your stopping point for the first day of this trek. You’ll find lots of sites at this deep backcountry lake. From Carl Lake, locate the Cabot Lake Trail heading north and follow it as it seesaws through attractive woods. The trail passes under North Cinder Peak’s cliffs, curves enticingly around the Forked Butte lava flow, and then passes directly by scenic Forked Buttes as it makes its way towards Mt. Jefferson. The trail descends to small Patsy Lake and then gains elevation once more, finally reaching secluded Table Lake 4.7 miles from Carl Lake. Make Table Lake your second night stop, and spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful area. While you’re here, be sure to locate the continuation of the Cabot Lake Trail and follow it 1.5 miles north to an incredible viewpoint by the cliffs of Bear Butte. Here, Mt. Jefferson towers over Holein-the-Wall Park, just four miles away. The trail once continued down to the park but is now lost in blowdown from the B&B fire. On day 3, leave Table Lake. You could hike all the way back to Carl Lake and return the way you came, but this trek is much better as a loop. So hike south from Table Lake 0.2 miles to a meadow, where a very faint trail cuts off west towards the Cascade crest. The trail isn’t easy to find but is worth the trouble. Once you’ve found it, hike west on a trail that threads between a cinder cone and The Table and then traverses steeply uphill to the crest of the ridge. Once you top out the trail becomes faint again, but from here just continue west 0.1 miles or so to the PCT. When you find the PCT you’re faced with another dilemma—do you turn left and head south to wrap up the loop, or do you turn right to make a longer loop by heading into the burned forests west of the PCT for more lakes and a longer hike? The PCT continues south 4.7 miles to the Shirley Lake-Swallow Lake-PCT junction mentioned above, offering fabulous views and easy hiking. If you’re up for the longer loop option, turn right at this junction and soon arrive at a junction with the Hunts Creek Trail. Follow this trail as it climbs slightly and arrives at a rocky ledge above beautiful Hunts Cove,

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South Cinder Peak and Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Matt Reeder

with Mt. Jefferson looming just across the valley. After 1.7 miles, reach a junction with the Lake of the Woods Trail. North leads down into Hunts Cove (a limitedentry permit area), but for the loop, keep left. The Lake of the Woods Trail continues south, soon entering burned forest. You’ll pass Lake of the Woods and finally reach a junction with the Swallow Lake Trail at 9.8 miles from Table Lake. Continue 1.7 miles to Marion Lake. At this point, you’ve hiked 11.5 miles on Day 3 but you’re only 2 miles and change from the trailhead. If you’re wiped out, consider camping at this lake and spending the next morning exploring before hiking out. Explorations around the lake reveal fantastic lakeshore viewpoints of Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson, as well as huge and impressive Marion Falls just below the lake. If you’ve got a bit of extra energy, you can scramble up the talus slope on the west side of the lake (along the peninsula) to a fantastic viewpoint on top of a rock pile that looks out across the lake to Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack. But if you reach Marion Lake and are ready to be done with this loop, follow the trail west of the lake a little over 2 miles to the trailhead.

DIRECTIONS:

▶ From Portland, drive south on Interstate 5 to Exit 253 in Salem, signed for Detroit Lake and Bend. Leave the freeway here and turn left onto OR 22. ▶ From Salem, drive OR 22 east for 49.2 miles to Detroit. ▶ Continue on OR 22 another 16.2 miles to a junction with Marion Road (FR 2255), just opposite the now-closed Marion Forks Restaurant. ▶ Turn left here and drive this one-lane paved road for 0.8 miles to the end of the pavement. Continue another 3.7 miles of excellent gravel road to the road’s end at the Marion Lake Trailhead. ▶ There are many places to park but come early—this is an extremely popular hike and the trailhead is often full by midmorning on summer weekends. ▶ NW Forest Pass required. A limitedentry permit of some sort will likely be required in 2019.

Above: South Cinder Peak and Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Matt Reeder


Mt. Adams Northside Traverse Like Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams features a trail that circumnavigates it. Sort of. The Round the Mountain Trail takes hikers three-quarters of the way around Mt. Adams, eventually ending on the far east side of the mountain, deep inside the Yakima Reservation—and from this point, hikers must hike offtrail through forbidding terrain to complete the loop at Bird Creek Meadows. It is a fun adventure but a difficult one—and with Bird Creek Meadows closed this year, scratch it off your to-do list. Thankfully, much of the finest terrain on Mt. Adams is open and gorgeous, and this traverse is probably the nicest backpacking trip in the area. The best place to start, in spite of lousy road access, is the Killen Creek Trailhead. Here, you avoid the ubiquitous fire damage found further south and west on Mt. Adams, opting instead to just hike straight into wondrous alpine terrain on the north side of the mountain. It’s just all good here, almost right from the start. Begin on the Killen Creek Trail and hike steeply uphill on a trail that charges up the hillside. Thankfully, the bad times don’t last long and soon you’ll begin traversing glorious wildflower meadows with views south to the heavily-glaciated north side of Mt. Adams. Meet the PCT (which here is also the Round the Mountain Trail) at a junction at 3 miles. The longer trip turns left here to continue heading east around Mt. Adams. If

Foggy Flats. Photo: Matt Reeder

you’re looking for a spectacular detour or a closer place to camp, turn right and immediately locate the spur trail to High Camp 100 feet to your right. Turn left here and climb this steep trail uphill 1 mile to High Camp, a plateau at nearly 7,000 feet of elevation, 4 miles from the Killen Creek Trailhead. This is among the most spectacular places on Mt. Adams, at the northern foot of the mountain near the terminus of the massive Adams Glacier. Views stretch north to Mt. Rainier and the Goat Rocks. There are plenty of campsites dotted throughout the plateau—just expect very cold nights, even in summer. If you’re just stopping by, return to the PCT and head east to continue hiking around Mt. Adams. In a little under a mile, the trail crosses Killen Creek just above a cascading waterfall and passes a glade I lovingly refer to as “Perfection Park”—as in, it couldn’t possibly get better than this. The area is a popular camping spot for folks, but with some luck you may find a site if you decide you don’t want to go any further. If you’re continuing, follow the PCT until you meet a junction with the Highline Trail (another name for the Round the Mountain Trail). Keep right and hike another 1.8 miles to a junction with the Muddy Meadows Trail. Keep right again and continue about a mile to Foggy Flat, a huge meadow on the northeast side of Mt. Adams. There are a few campsites scattered around the flat, which features a

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backpacking, continued from previous page view of the top half of Mt. Adams. For the good stuff, continue on the Highline Trail a short way past Foggy Flat until the trail leaves both meadow and forest, arriving at the lava flows and barren plains on the northeast side of Mt. Adams. There are a few good campsites here, and chances are you won’t have much competition for them. At this point, you’re over 7 miles from the Killen Creek Trailhead, so it’s probably a good idea to stop here. Once you’ve set up camp, grab your pack and some water and continue exploring south along the barren plains. The views of Mt. Adams and its glaciers are tremendous, and continuous—this is truly a special place. The trail does continue several more miles south to Devil’s Garden and eventually Avalanche Valley, two of the most amazing places on Mt. Adams—but the creek crossings are difficult, and camping is questionable once you reach the Yakima Reservation. You’ve got options, and all of them are great. If you’re looking for a longer backpacking trip, start further south on Mt. Adams. There are numerous trails that reach the Round the Mountain Trail, from the South Climb Trailhead on the south side of the mountain to the Divide Camp Trail just southeast of the Killen Creek Trailhead. Many of these feature easier road access than does Killen Creek, and offer hikers the chance to turn a short trip into a much longer trip. In the absence of a loop trail, the best option would be to set up a car shuttle somewhere along the way and hike the circuit one way from south to north.

Mt. Adams on the rugged north side. Photo: Matt Reeder

DIRECTIONS:

▶ From Portland, drive east on Interstate 84 to Hood River. ▶ At Exit 64 on I-84, leave the freeway and reach a junction at the end of the off-ramp. ▶ Turn left and drive to the toll bridge over the Columbia River. Pay the $2 toll and cross the river. ▶ At the far end of the bridge on the Washington side, turn left on WA 14. ▶ Drive 1.5 miles west on WA 14 to a junction with WA 141 Alt, just before a bridge over the White Salmon River. Turn right here. ▶ Drive 2.2 miles to a junction with WA 141. Turn left here. ▶ Drive 18.9 miles to the small town of Trout Lake. ▶ Continue straight on what is now Mt. Adams Road (FR 23) for 1.5 miles to a junction. ▶ Keep left (right leads to the south and east sides of Mt. Adams) to stay on FR 23. ▶ Drive 23 miles, ignoring all side roads along the way, to a junction with FR 2329 near Takhlakh Lake. The last several miles are gravel. ▶ Turn right on FR 2329, following signs for Takhlakh Lake. ▶ Drive 1.5 miles to Takhlakh Lake, ignoring signs for Olallie Lake along the way. ▶ Continue past Takhlakh Lake, where FR 2329 worsens into a rough, rutted, potholed road that requires patience. Drive 1.9 miles beyond Takhlakh Lake to the Divide Camp Trail on your right. ▶ Continue 2.4 increasingly rough miles to the Killen Creek Trailhead on your right.

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Professor Reid leading a Mazama party down on Reid Glacier, July 16, 1901.

A Legacy on the Landscape by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

P

lace names are integral to our knowledge and understanding of Mazama history. The nomenclature of Pacific Northwest geographic features, more often than not, goes unrecognized and is often forgotten. Unknown to most, the Mazamas and its members have influenced the names of many places around the Northwest. The story begins, as many recountings of Mazama history does, with our founder William Gladstone Steel.

William Steel, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Mazama

Besides founding the Mazamas and helping to establish Crater Lake National Park, the nomenclature of place names fascinated Steel. He worked for many years to compile a catalog of over 40,000 place names. It seems only fitting then that the Steel Cliffs on Mt. Hood honor him. Steel is also responsible for the naming of Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock and Mississippi Head. In 1887, he organized and led a party that carried 100 pounds of Red Fire up the mountain and set it alight as part of that year’s

July 4 celebration. Anyone who could see the mountain that night could see the fire atop Illumination Rock. In 1905, Steel named Mississippi Head for that state’s delegation to the National Editorial Association, which held its annual convention in Portland that year. While on the subject of Mt. Hood, the Mazamas have either named or have influenced the naming of several other prominent features on the mountain. In 1901, the Mazamas named Reid

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Legacy, continued from previous page Glacier for Professor Harry Fielding Reid of Johns Hopkins University to honor his work studying glaciers. Others include the naming of Glisan Glacier for long-time member Rodney L. Glisan and Leuthold Couloir for Mazama Joseph Leuthold. In the late 1990s, the U.S. Forest Service renamed the Cathedral Ridge trail the Mazama Trail to recognize the organization’s long association and history with the mountain. All this pales in the satisfaction Steel must have felt when, in 1896, the ancient mountain whose caldera now holds Crater Lake was named Mt. Mazama in honor of the organization he founded. Steel loved Crater Lake and worked for 17 years to have the area declared a National Park. He later served as the park’s second superintendent.

Columbia River Gorge

In 1914, the State Highway Commission asked the Mazamas to recommend names for some of the places along the Columbia River Highway. The council sanctioned a committee to study the issue and make recommendations. In 1915, the committee submitted their proposals to the Mazamas and the Highway Commission. The commission accepted the majority of the recommendations. We know them today as Metlako Falls, Munra Point, Ruckel Creek, Tumult Creek, Wahclella Falls, Wahe Falls, Wahkeena Falls, Wauna Point, Elowah Falls, and Yeon Mountain. Don Onthank, a long-time member known to many as Mr. Mazama, gave the name to Bruin Mountain and the Rock of Ages Trail, both in the Gorge. And for a short while, there existed a Mazama Mystery Trail in the Gorge in the vicinity of Saint Peter’s Dome.

Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Rainier

Mazama influence extends beyond Mt. Hood and the Gorge. Northwest mountaineer and Mazama Claude E. Rusk is the namesake of Rusk Glacier on Mt. Adams. On Mt. Baker, the Mazama Dome honors the organization, while the Mazamas named Roosevelt Glacier in 1906 for U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt. The Mazamas is the namesake for the Mazama Glaciers on both Adams and Baker. In 1948, the Mazamas petitioned to have the Mazama Glacier on Mt. Adams renamed to honor fivetime Mazama President Charles Sholes, but the request was denied. Mazama founding member Fay Fuller is the source for Fay Peak, on the slopes of Mt. Rainier.

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Forest Park

Closer to home, the Mazamas advocated for the creation of Forest Park. For their efforts, the city allowed for the establishment of the Mazama Forest inside the park. Now all but forgotten, this area was overseen by the Mazamas. Besides planting thousands of trees, the Mazamas sourced various types of rhododendrons from around the region and transplanted them. The Hardesty Trail leading to the forest honors Mazama President William Hardesty.

Mount St. Helens

Until the summer of 1967, all the glaciers on Mount St. Helens were nameless. In May of 1966, Keith Gehr, a frequent Mazama climb leader and then head of the Mazama Outing Committee, set out to rectify the situation. Over three months Keith worked the phones and wrote countless letters to determine why there were no given names. Keith’s search turned up an ally when he contacted Dr. Mark Meier, a glaciologist for the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS). After getting assurances from the USGS that the 11 permanent ice bodies on the mountain were, in fact, actual glaciers, Keith and


The illumination of Mt. Hood, July 1892. Mark set about researching and submitting names for them. Keith wrote, “After much research in the Mazama Library on the early history of the Mount St. Helens area, particularly as it is related to climbing, a set of names was proposed. Differences of opinion between the Mazamas, Forest Service, and Geological Survey were quickly resolved in across-the-table meetings.” The 11 names recommended were: Forsyth, Nelson, Ape, Shoestring, Swift, Dryer, Talus, Toutle, Wishbone, Loowit, and Leschi. In November of 1967, the Board of Geographic Names, based in Washington D.C., approved the Mount St. Helens glacier names based on recommendations from the Mazamas. Three of the names—Forsyth, Nelson, and Dryer—honored individuals. Charles Forsyth led six companions in the first rescue on Mount St. Helens during the 1908 Mazama Outing. Over a grueling 48 hours, he led north-south and south-north traverses of the mountain to bring an

injured climber to safety. Lorenz Nelson, a pioneer of Northwest mountaineering, 50-year Mazama member, and two-time Mazama president is the namesake for the Nelson Glacier. Thomas Dryer was the founder and first editor of the Oregonian newspaper and a member of the party that first climbed Mount St. Helens in 1853. The remaining glaciers took their names from either their shapes or from Native American heritage. Unfortunately, the 1980 eruption vaporized Wishbone, Loowit, and Lesch glaciers and significantly reduced Nelson, Shoestring, and Forsyth glaciers. Diligent searches through almost 100 years of Mazama Bulletins have turned up many other places named for or by the Mazamas and its members. To name a few of the more interesting and unique: Lost Park in Beaverton; the Mazama Campground at Crater Lake; Sahale Peak near Washington’s Lake Chelan was named for the organization’s motto; Mt. Thielsen’s Lathrop Glacier, for Mazama Theodore

Lathrop; and finally the small seasonal lake that appears atop South Sister was named Teardrop Lake by three young Mazamas on a hike. While this recounting of place names around the Northwest is in no way comprehensive, it provides a glimpse into the influence the Mazamas has had on the nomenclature and history of the region. Place names are anchors by which the Mazamas are tied to the mountains, valleys, glaciers, and ridges, and act as markers of where the organization has traveled, climbed, and camped. As the Mazamas enter into their 124th year, the places named for and by the Mazamas are a proud reminder of the organization’s long and deeply rooted legacy on the landscape.

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GLACIER PHENOLOGY Elizabeth Kimberly is a graduate student at Western Washington University. She received a Mazama Research Grant for her project titled “Testing the viability of using structure-frommotion photogrammetric surveys to track glacier mass balance and meltwater discharge on the Easton Glacier, Mt. Baker, Wash.” Below is a reflection on her field work. *Phenology is the study of cyclic and seasonal natural phenomena, especially in relation to climate and plant and animal life.

Article & photos by Elizabeth Kimberly

I

n the past, I’ve associated the concept of phenology with flowers and trees undergoing seasonal transformations from buds to blooms. However, conducting research on the Easton Glacier the past several months for my Master’s thesis has shown me the remarkably striking ways in which mountainscapes, too, change with the seasons. These are the abiotic parts of nature that we typically think of only being subject to change over centuries and millennia, not days and months … so much for a “glacial pace.” Here, I write about the phenology of the Easton Glacier through the spring and summer of 2018.

Early May

It is early May and the birds are chirping dawn choruses and the winter rain has diminished. The disparity between the snowy alpine and the verdant lowlands is increasingly stark. Stubborn patches of snow still make the trailhead’s rugged forest road impassable and when we arrive, the snowmobile crew has finagled a winch system to pull their burly trucks and sled trailers across. We giggle at their innovation as we attach skins to our skis, complete a most unusual gear check (duct tape? steam drill? PVC pipes? avalanche gear? snacks?), and finish our coffee. A team of 8, all members of the Northwest Cruisers Snowmobile Club, have united to help us transport our heavy, bulky research gear up the Easton Glacier and nearly to the summit of Mt. Baker. In less than 20 minutes our crew has zoomed from 3,000 feet to 8,500, across cobble-filled creeks, dormant underbrush, unconsolidated glacial till, and deep crevasses, all obscured by meters of snow. The undulations of the topography are softened by the snow-laden landscape, and the terminus of the glacier is indistinguishable so early in the season. Niki and I follow a pre-set GPS track to find our first site. Our goal for the day is to use a steam drill (not to be mistaken for a sasquatch-sized espresso-maker) to drill five stakes into the snow and ice, which we’ll revisit through the summer and

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fall to measure changes in the surface elevation. We probe each survey site to ensure we don’t inadvertently install a stake into a crevasse and to approximate the depth of the snowpack. When we’re finished, we enjoy the payoff: a ski through thousands of feet of soft spring corn to sites 4, 3, 2, and 1, where we repeat the installation process.

Mid June

By mid-June, the snow bridge across the Easton Glacier’s outlet creek has melted and the low albedo of the cobbles has revealed interwoven stream channels and vegetation. The glacier is no longer accessible via snowmobile and so we approach the ice with an awkward tango of skiing, skinning, hiking, and bushwhacking. We’re wearing shorts and we are disoriented because the glacier’s foreground has morphed into a mosaic of snow, dirt patches, and moving water. “Didn’t we ski right over that waterfall just a month ago?” We arrive at the first stake and measure 127 centimeters worth of snowmelt since its installation a month ago. There’s a spider perched on the stake, totally unaware of the climatic changes unraveling around it. We continue up the center of the glacier, moving more delicately and swiftly in certain, seemingly thin places. Sometimes we straddle deep crevasses and peer down


into the frozen abysses. Like stratigraphic columns that reveal a chronology of shorelines, the cracks expose layers of snow, firn, and ice from seasons past. It’s 3 p.m. and we’ve made it to stake 3. The snow appears to have gone through a melt-freeze cycle recently and the corn tempts my skiing instincts. On a whim, we decide to pause our research efforts and jaunt up toward the summit of Mt. Baker. After all, it might be our last chance to ski volcano corduroy. Around 6:30 p.m., we strip our skins and fly down the glacier, at the mercy of gravity and with the current of a disappearing frozen river.

Late July

It’s late July and now we’re wearing hiking boots. There’s a heatwave in the valley, the trailhead is packed with day hikers, and we’ve replaced ski poles with crampons and avalanche gear with glacier ropes. The goals of our visit are varied, but first on our list is to install a second stream gauge and measure the creek’s velocity. What’s the diurnal variation (i.e. How much does the streamflow change as the day warms? Can we attribute its velocity changes to snowmelt and/or glacial melt?)? After an afternoon of drilling holes into rocks (to install our “level-logger,” a device that continuously measures the stream’s height, which we use to make a curve that relates stream stage to velocity throughout the summer) and standing in glacial streams, we find ourselves sprawled in a wildflower-filled alpine meadow, eating macaroni and cheese and talking about unscientific things. Does the full moon pull on the glacier the way it pulls on the tides? On our

second day, we return to the highest stake for the first time since May. We’re attached to the same rope, five meters apart and moving simultaneously across the ice, navigating mazes of crevasse fields and ice-fall. Sometimes we rearrange our rope’s trajectory to ensure we remain perpendicular to the visible crevasse patterns. We scan the glacier for stake 5 and Katie spots it at the mouth of a widening crack. Oops. We arrive at stake 3 and the snow has melted a total of 355 centimeters in two months. The untouched field of white snow from a month prior is now striped with fissures. The crevasses concentrate in places where the glacier is moving most quickly, typically along convexities in the topography. Stake 1 is guarded by a cliff of unconsolidated sediment, the remnants of the glacier’s path, and it’s inaccessible from above. We contemplate what climbing Mt. Baker will be like in 50 years, and the recently revealed uneven, unstable rocky terrain at the ice’s edges offers compelling evidence. As we leave the glacier and return to our campsite, I baffle at the delicate heather buds waltzing in the wind. This sea of wildflowers is a product of millennia of eruptions and glaciations and burrowing marmots. I can reasonably predict what this landscape will look like when we return at the end of September, and again in February. But I can only speculate how long it will take for the summit of this glaciated volcano (currently a bright white beacon in the sky and only accessible with crampons and ice axes), to become a cirque with an alpine lake, shaded by subalpine firs and fit for hiking boots and sunset picnics.

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Daring to be Lydia by Lisa Kostova

T

hirty years ago this October, something extraordinary happened. A lone 27-year-old girl set off in the middle of the night from Camp 4 to climb the world’s highest peak. It was dark and she had never been there before. Unlike today, there were no fixed ropes to guide the way and since she was climbing without oxygen, the only other party that set off at the same time as her, a group of Catalan climbers, quickly surged ahead, leaving her alone with the darkness and her thoughts. As she describes in her book Going Up is Easy, Lydia Bradey got to the South Summit and had to make a life-and-death decision. She knew she had enough energy to make it back down to camp. She also knew she had enough energy to reach the summit. But what she didn’t know is if she had enough energy to do both. At that moment, she recalls flipping her thinking from “If I climb Everest, I can survive,” to “If I survive, I can climb Everest.” She told me that she was in effect reasoning with herself, convincing herself that she was capable of climbing her mountain. Less than 24 hours later, Lydia became the first woman to climb Everest without oxygen. This would be the first of five Everest ascents so far and according to Lydia, she’s still got at least one more Everest in her. As I quickly came to find out, most of the world and certainly New Zealand knows Lydia as much for the controversy that surrounded her first Everest ascent as for the achievement that was a major landmark for women and mountaineering. Which I find incredibly frustrating. Long story short, the two male Kiwi mountaineers that Lydia was climbing with at the time, Rob Hall (portrayed by Jason Clarke in the movie “Everest”) and Gary Ball accused Lydia of lying about making it to the top. According to them, she hallucinated the whole thing. In short, she was “confused.” But more on that later. I’ve come to New Zealand for the winter with my partner Brent and his daughter Inez. Brent somehow learned that Lydia is leading a women-only ski touring group in the glaciers of the Southern Alps with Elke Braun-Elwert, the talented guide who taught us mountaineering. The trip is aptly named “She’s on Skis.” In typical fashion, Brent becomes my biggest

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cheerleader, “You HAVE to do this!” he says emphatically in the spring as we make our way to Alaska to climb Mt. Fairweather. “We have to come back to New Zealand and spend the (Southern Hemisphere) winter climbing and ski touring. And you get to tour with Lydia!!!” His enthusiasm is infectious. As a Kiwi, Brent tries to impress me with how much of a badass Lydia is, even by New Zealand standards, and I take note. I’m also excited to try ski touring. I’ve already watched the trailer of Symphony on Skis, a movie about a ski touring journey made by Elke and her sister. I’m entranced by the idea of putting my skis on glaciers, exploring some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery, and being in the company of tough women, including of course Lydia, whose story fascinates me. So here I am, in August of 2018, with my trusty downhill skis hastily configured with touring bindings. I’ve got a few days under my belt of touring experience in the Two Thumbs Range, where I’ve learned avalanche prevention and avalanche rescue with Pete Ozich of Alpine Recreation. But this is the first time I’m ski touring on glaciers. And for the first time in my climbing and skiing experience, I’m surrounded by women. The cast of characters includes Jade, an Aussie with a quiet determination; Carla, a bubbly Brit who is a hardcore ultra-marathoner and is smoking all of us up the hill; and Anna, a gentle but strong Kiwi mother of two whose husband, a helicopter pilot, has gifted her this trip as a birthday present. And of course, there’s Lydia herself. Wearing a pink hat with a canary yellow jacket and a purple undershirt, she has mischief in her eyes. Those eyes have seen the glory of untold mountain peaks. They have scanned vistas

that few humans have experienced, but have also seen tragedy and loss. Her voice is strong, commanding, and unapologetic in taking up the space around her. Her laughter is infectious. She’s bubbly and chatty and will talk endlessly about beautiful clothes and mountain fashion. And yet she exudes the authority and discipline that only comes from years of breaking trail and pushing herself to the extreme. I quietly marvel at the enigma that is Lydia. There’s so much I want to know. I somehow score the bunk right next to Lydia in the leaky attic section of the unheated Kelman Hut, the second-highest structure in New Zealand, perched above the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers. In the evenings, after the exhaustion of a full day of touring, making dinner, and cleaning up, we have a precious few minutes to relax on our bunks. I’m conscious of not bothering Lydia, who has the rare moment to read and focus on herself, not the group. But as I lie there, next to her, reading her biography, reliving her emotions and her achievements from long ago, my mind is swirling with questions. Was she afraid up there? Did she think she was going to die? How did she feel when her Kiwi teammates abandoned her? How did she feel when they and the media turned around and attacked her viciously, calling her a liar and a “confused” woman who had hallucinated her life’s crowning achievement? Confused—a word used to describe women who are brave enough to live their dreams, speak their truth, and who dare to break out of the social norms of what a young girl should be able to do. With the stroke of eight measly letters, a woman’s life is reduced to a hallucination, to something not tangible, not able to be proven, measured, or verified. Confused.


Not loud, and established, and endowed with society’s automatic and blind trust that is conferred to male climbers and Supreme Court nominees who throw around that word easily and freely at anyone who threatens their comfortable perch. Confused. Why would it be that the word of men carries so much weight that not even the preponderance of evidence in her favor could shield a woman from the maelstrom unleashed by this dismissive term? I read Lydia’s account of how she was practically left to die by her male Kiwi teammates. But she was stronger than that. “As soon as I reframed my thinking, I knew I wasn’t going to die.” She says that while she was very much afraid of dying, her experience helped her “manage her way away from it.” But there’s no way her Kiwi partners could have known that. Instead, the day she was having her life-and-death mental moment on the South Summit, Rob Hall and Gary Ball packed up all the expedition’s gear and left Base Camp. They didn’t know if she was dead or alive. They weren’t manning the radios, leaning in and straining to hear her voice, waiting for confirmation that their partner was among the living, up there somewhere near the top of the world, still clinging to life in the “death zone.” They weren’t ready to send help for her if the radio went silent or she sounded sick or hurt. They simply left. Having read the chapter on her first Everest journey, I sit with Lydia over steaming pasta with veggies, our breath visible in the frozen air of the hut. I share with her that what struck me about her Everest climb is that she spent most of the chapter, multiple pages, describing the relationships that she formed on the mountain and the experiences she shared with the Slovaks and other climbers. The actual summit took only a paragraph and was over within two sentences—short and to the point, much like her communication style on the glacier, where she is all about safety and survival. She seems to appreciate that observation and her eyes grow heavy with sadness as she says of the Slovaks: “I lost all of them. None of them made it back.” There is pain and heartfelt love in Lydia whenever she talks about the Slovaks. They were a team of young men who climbed without oxygen, attempting a new technique on Everest.

None of them came back from their summit climb and nobody knows what happened to them. I realize suddenly that at the heart of Lydia’s climb was not the “Lydiagate” scandal that surrounded her upon her return, courtesy of the self-assured men she was climbing with. The defining experience for her was her friendship and love of the Slovak climbers and her subsequent loss of that intimate connection with people who saw her for who she was. That’s the part that is raw and powerful and meaningful for Lydia in her Everest journey. Not the noise and resentment of her Kiwi teammates. Lydia summarizes the whole scandal succinctly: “I set myself up to be bullied.” She tells me as we watch over melting pots of snow that the deepening relationship with the Slovak team was the reason for her being ostracized by Rob and Gary (who were climbing with oxygen and did not manage to gain the summit during that trip). I open the book to a place where a pretty, bright-eyed girl stares back at me from the page. It’s easy to imagine her shifting sympathies causing intense feelings of jealousy in the young males on the mountain. It’s primal and it is ugly. The female chimp gets punished by the alpha males for daring to stray from the tribe. Especially if she dared to outshine them. Despite all of this, Lydia doesn’t climb with fear. She lets out a rip-roaring laugh as she recalls being described by one of her book reviewers as an “eternal optimist despite her series of failures.” Lydia knows a thing or two about failure. There is the time where she survived no fewer than SIX (!!!) subsequent avalanches in the same day, and the time when she had to turn around on K2, the “savage mountain” that claims the lives of a third of the people who attempt it. Lydia loves talking about failure as a necessary ingredient for success. In fact, until the rise of guided Himalayan climbing, failure rates of 50–60 percent were common and were considered standard for mountaineers. So while they reached their objectives “only” 40 percent of the time, they spent the rest of their climbing careers getting stronger and more experienced, gaining that survival mechanism, so they could live to climb

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Lydia navigating in a white-out on the Tasman Glacier.

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Lydia, continued from previous page another mountain. As an experienced highaltitude mountaineer, Lydia talks a lot about mindset. During an impromptu prusik self-rescue demonstration, I ask her what type of mindframe she thinks is necessary to climb Everest. I ask her to think about what makes her best clients successful and what makes it difficult for other people to adjust. It all comes back to the personalities of people putting Everest on their bucket lists. Lydia prides herself on creating strong connections with her clients, and I can see that. Nowadays, in addition to guiding groups on Everest, most of her time seems to be spent with repeat clients who book her on private climbing adventures around the world.

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Having said that, Lydia also describes a type of Everest bucket-list climber. “Insecure overachievers,” Lydia calls them. She knows, she considers her younger self to have been an insecure overachiever, too. And she adds that true preparation matters. The type of preparation that comes from doing non-glamorous climbing trips like the one we’re on. Remembering to dry your inner boots and dry your socks. Prepare, pack, unpack, rinse, repeat. She’s lost count of how many times she has been expected to take care of people, especially clients who are used to other people running their lives. “They’ve got armies of nannies, housekeepers, and personal assistants. They outsource their lives.” Taking care of

your needs yourself, including simple things like packing your socks and gloves and paying attention to the essentials, is a habit you develop when you climb often, you climb for many years, and you climb for the joy of climbing. There are many valuable resources and support that money can buy on the mountain. But a climber’s common sense cannot be bought, it can only be developed. On our ski touring trip, Lydia teaches us what to pack for all kinds of emergencies—from prusiks and slings, to spare parts for our ski poles, skins, and skis, including tape and a tool set with different tool bits. I’m feverishly taking notes—up on the mountain, a climber has to be her own repair shop and rescue resource. Lydia gets

everyone to practice crevasse self-rescue on the rope in the hut, and drills people through transceiver search—quickly locating a buried avalanche transceiver. She is relentless when it comes to getting the details right—whether it’s the technical turns when you ski down, the efficiency of your skinning technique and how to improve it, or your transition times and how to cut them down. She’s also a perfectionist when it comes to housekeeping. She delegates tasks around the hut that keep the whole place sparkling clean and running smoothly during meal prep and clean-up. I swear we left the public hut in a much better shape than we found it. Ski touring with Lydia is the ultimate ego-buster. Watching


From left: Lydia in front of Kelman Hut. The “She’s on Skis” group in the helicopter (author is on the left). Photo: Lydia Bradey. Lisa Kostova and Lydia at Aylmer Col above the Tasman Glacier.

Lydia plow up the slope at a relentless pace, I get used to the feeling of trying to keep up and failing. My only solace is that everyone else seems to be in the same boat (with the exception of Carla, who’s a true Energizer Bunny). Nonetheless, I grit my teeth and forge on. My heart pounds and I focus intensely on the sequence of movements anytime we stop for a transition. Yet, I always seem to be the last one and I’m told to “transition faster next time, please.” I talk to my fear while perched on a hill, feeling the heft of my backpack. Lydia coaches us on how to ski the stickiest snow cement I’ve ever experienced. Turning would be difficult, “a knee buster,” so “watch out and don’t fall.” After the mental check of making sure neither of my boots is in walk mode, I brace myself for the leg burn of executing the turns as smoothly and in control as is possible, working my willpower and concentration more than my muscles. Lydia seems to have evaluated my technical skiing skills and found them lacking. The cold matter-offactness of her assessment is non-partial—she also extends it to her own skiing, which

she deems “competent” but far from great. After years of resort skiing, where I’ve skied double blacks, chutes, and trees, I find myself a beginner in the art and craft of backcountry skiing. I have to pick myself up over and over again, playing the mental game of just getting by to the best of my ability. As soon as I let go of my identification as an “expert skier,” I am free to move about the mountain and enjoy the whole experience. I also notice that on the last day, everyone, including Lydia and the more technical skiers (Carla and Jade), is survival skiing. Lydia deems the snow to be “the worst she’s seen on the Tasman,” and is proud to have delivered the whole group back to base without any knee injuries. Once everyone is out of the danger zone, Lydia somehow manages to miraculously turn a difficult time into a funny moment, lightening the situation with her ability to laugh at herself and whatever

it is that may have seemed scary. With a glint of mischief in her eyes and the wise crack of a joke, she infects everyone with her laughter, releasing all stress and tension like an escape valve. That smile, that laugh, that ability to surmount any obstacle and find joy and share it with others is the memory of Lydia that will stay with me forever. And as much as my confidence in my skiing has taken a hit after the trip, I know that touring with Lydia has cracked me open and elevated my game as a climber, skier, and human being.

About the Author: Lisa Kostova is an entrepreneur. She blogs about her mountaineering, skiing, and outdoor adventures at www. dispatchesfromthe45.com.

Check out Lydia’s book Going Up is Easy and keep an eye out for a movie about her life coming out soon. The She’s on Skis trip was organized by Alpine Recreation, a familyowned guiding and climbing company out of Tekapo, New Zealand.

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Celebrations & awards

Jurassic. Photo: Matt Meisenheimer

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 75


A Night to

e t a r b e l e C

2017 Award Winners Parker Cup Billie Goodwin Honorary Member Dr. Andrew Fountain Montague Cup Jeff Hawkins Hardesty Cup Terry Sherbeck

by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Director of Marketing & Communications

Terry Becker Award Rico Micallef

n April 25, 2018, Mazama members gathered at The Evergreen in Southeast Portland to celebrate. It was a time to come together to honor the achievements of our members, to recognize the dedication and talents of our volunteers, and most importantly, to spend time together.

16 Peaks Award Kurt Gusinde Kim Osgood Chris Rears Lisa Ripps

O

The evening kicked off with an hour of social time. Attendees were treated to delicious food from Devil’s Food Catering and an opportunity to win one of 20 awesome raffle prizes—from backpacks to boots to puffy jackets! The venue was full of Mazamas of all ages and varying lengths of Mazama membership. We had brand new members who had just completed our Basic Climbing Education Program alongside 70-year(!) member Jack Grauer and all durations in between. The program was kicked off by Chris Kruell, who welcomed the crowd to the annual gathering and acknowledged our new 25- and 50-year members. Chris then passed the mic to Executive Director Lee Davis, who shared details of the history of the Mazamas with the crowd. We then moved into the volunteer recognition portion of the evening, with highlights from our committees and teams and thank yous for the volunteers involved with those programs. Thank yous turned to congratulations as we moved into awards territory. First up was Bill Stein, Trail Trips Committee Chair, with the hiking leadership and participation awards. Bill also presented Terry Sherbeck with the Hardesty Cup, an award given annually to the Mazama who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community. Larry Beck, Climbing Committee Chair, then came on stage to present the climbing awards. He led off with the Guardian Peaks Award, given to those who have successfully summitted Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mount St. Helens with the Mazamas. This year’s recipients were Teresa Dalsager (daughter of long-time Mazama member Dick Miller), Buzz Lindahl, and Gary Riggs. This was followed by the Oregon Cascades Award, which had a single recipient this year, Buzz Lindahl. The Oregon Cascades Award includes successful summits of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister. The final climbing participation award was the 16 Major Northwest Peaks Award— the crown jewel of climbing awards—which includes successful summits of all of the peaks already listed plus Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, and Mt. Shasta. This year’s recipients were Kurt Gusinde, Kim Osgood, Chris Rears, and Lisa Ripps. The final climbing award was the Terry Becker Award. This is a leadership award, earned by successfully leading the 16 Major Northwest Peaks. This award was first given in 2000, and only 14 leaders have achieved this milestone in 18 years. This year’s recipients, Bruce Yatvin and Rico Micallef, became the thirteenth and fourteenth awardees.

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Oregon Cascades Award Buzz Lindahl Guardian Peaks Award Teresa Dalsager Buzz Lindahl Gary Riggs Hike Lead Awards Tom Guyot (900) David Braem (700) Wayne Lincoln (500) Rex Breunsbach (400) Meg Linza (200) Lisa Ripps (150) Marilyn Zigler (100) Dan Smith, Larry Solomon, Jennifer Trask (50) Reena Clements, Keith Dechant, Gretchen Guyot, Susan Koch, Richard Sandefur (25) Hike Mileage Awards Richard Getgen (13,000) Jim Selby (1,000) David Nelson (500)


Top: An overview of The Evergreen during the program. Left: Volunteer extraordinaire George Cummings in his trademark suspenders. Photos: Vaqas Malik Above: Each attendee took home a ceramic Mazama mug.

continued on next page 2017/2018 Mazama Annual 77


2017 Celebration, continued from previous page

Parker Cup Billie Goodwin

Honorary Member Dr. Andrew Fountain

Howard Buck then took the stage to honor Jeff Hawkins for his tireless effort to get the solar panels installed at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The solar panel project took more than 10 years to go from concept to fruition, and Jeff was the person who stuck with it all the way. For his efforts, he was awarded the Montague Conservation Cup, which “recognizes and honors individuals who have had a significant and lasting impact upon the community through their efforts in conservation” and in protecting the environment. If you want to see the extent of the impact of the solar panels, you can go to beta.mazamas.org/mmc/ and see how much energy the solar panels are producing. Lee Davis returned to the stage for the biggest awards of the evening. Honorary membership may be bestowed upon “persons who have rendered distinguished service to the club, or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research, or outdoor activities.” The Honorary membership was bestowed upon Dr. Andrew Fountain, a world-renowned glaciologist at

The True Mazama Spirit by Sarah Bradham

Montague Cup Jeff Hawkins

Hardesty Cup Terry Sherbeck

Terry Becker Award Bruce Yatvin

Terry Becker Award Rico Micallef

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To encourage Classics members to make the trek to the Mazama Celebration, we offered a shuttle service from the MMC to the Evergreen. Only three Classics members took us up on this offer—Jack Grauer, Ed McAnich, and Billie Goodwin. Mazama staff member Laura Burger volunteered to be our shuttle driver for the evening and drove Jack, Ed, and Billie to the Evergreen. At the end of the event, when her riders were ready to leave, Laura went to pull her car around to make the return trip to the MMC. I came downstairs to say goodnight to Jack, Ed, and Billie and was surprised to find they were no longer waiting in the entryway for Laura to arrive. I rushed outside to see where they had gone and saw long-time member Flora Huber carefully buckling Jack into her waiting SUV. Seeing the three Classics in the lobby, Flora had wasted no time springing into action to take care of her friends and ensure they got home safely. Taking care of others and making sure everyone always finds their way home safely—this is the true spirit of the Mazamas.


Portland State University, for his critical contribution to the scientific discourse about how glaciers worldwide are affected by climate change. The final award of the evening, the Parker Cup, is viewed by many as the most prestigious award at the Mazamas, and it recognizes members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability, and selfsacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas. This year’s honoree fully embodies these qualities. She served on six committees in her tenure at the Mazamas, including Executive Council twice, and chair of the Trail Trips Committee three times! Some of her achievements include expanding the weekly Street Rambles from once to twice a week; leading Mazama members at SOLV beach clean-ups for 17 years; leading more than 700 hikes and backpacks; hiking more than 6,000 miles with the Mazamas; and previously winning the Hardesty Cup for distinguished volunteer service in the hiking community. For her tenure at the Mazamas, Billie Goodwin has demonstrated what it truly means to be a Mazama: To lead, to give, to share her knowledge with others, to not only be a part of our community but to have a hand in creating that community, and to help others have the life-changing experiences she had

when she joined our organization. To bring the evening to a close, 70-year Mazama member and past Mazama President Jack Grauer took the stage to lead the crowd in our long-standing tradition of singing “The Happy Wanderer.” As the music began to play, the pride of the Mazamas was palpable and the crowd joined Jack in a rousing send-off to the evening. Once the official program ended, members stayed to share in each others’ company for a while longer. As attendees left, each took home a commemorative ceramic Mazama mug. It was an evening to remember, and one we hope to repeat for many years to come. Thanks to all who came out to celebrate and be honored for their dedication to the Mazamas.

Below: Ed McAnich enjoys dinner prior to the program. Photo: Vaqas Malik

16 Peaks Award Lisa Ripps

16 Peaks Award Kim Osgood

Above: Jack Grauer leads the crowd in singing “The Happy Wanderer” to close the 2018 Mazama Celebration. Photo: Vaqas Malik

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2018 Annual Celebration by Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director

E

ach year since our founding in 1894, the Mazamas have come together annually to celebrate and honor the achievements of the past year. On May 1, 2019, the Mazamas held our Annual Celebration at the Evergreen in Southeast Portland. Approximately 200 Mazama members attended the evening's festivities, where they enjoyed tasty food, raffle prizes from local partners, plenty of social time with friends, and our program, which honored our dedicated volunteers and the hiking and climbing achievements of our members, in addition to the members who passed away in 2018. It was an evening to remember, full of camaraderie and celebration. In attendance, we had everyone from individuals who had just completed our Basic Climbing Education Program and were considering joining our ranks, up to 60-year members (Keith Dixon and Flora Huber).

George Cummings Parker Cup

by Rick Craycraft

G

eorge Cummings has been a Mazama member for a long time and has worn many hats during those years. He first joined the Mazamas in 1960 and quickly moved up through the ranks. He took Basic School and Intermediate School before beginning to lead climbs for the Mazamas in 1963. He led climbs for seven years, including Coe Glacier Headwall and Sandy Glacier Headwall on Mt. Hood, Lyman Glacier on Mt. Adams, and Bonanza Peak. Through his contacts with the Mazamas, George became involved with a newly-formed climbing program at Reed College in 1962, and the following year moved on to head this program for nearly a decade. In addition to his leadership at the Mazamas and Reed, George also followed a small group of Mazamas over to a backwater, little-known climbing area in central Oregon called Smith Rock. In 1963, he broke new ground by leading the earliest non-summit routes, Rattlesnake Chimney and Western Chimney. In 1968–1970, he joined David Jensen on four first ascents, including Sky Ridge. According to Alan Watts in Climber’s Guide to Smith Rock, they "unwittingly stumbled upon the roots of Smith sport climbing" with their ascent of Sky Ridge in 1968 by hiking up the backside and pre-placing protection bolts on rappel. This period also brought the first appearance of George’s trademark bib overalls ("The pockets and loops were handy for gear," he said). George took a little break from the Mazamas in 1975—about 25 years(!)— before rejoining us in 1999. Since that time, he has chaired the Publications Committee, co-edited the Mazama Annual, taken ICS to update his skills and have fun, taken AR, been a climb leader, and served on the Climbing and Nominating Committees, the Executive Council, and as President of the Mazamas. George Cummings is our 2018 Parker Cup recipient for his dedication over the last year to our youth programs. As Claire Nelson mentioned earlier tonight, George has been one of our most committed volunteers with youth, volunteering his time at youth outreach events, Adventure WILD summer and spring break camps, and any other opportunity we have had to bring youth or other communities into the sport of rock climbing. He has truly been an incredible mentor to the next generation of climbers. The Parker Cup was established in October 1925 at the Annual Meeting by the outgoing Mazama President, Alfred Parker. This award, viewed by many as the Mazamas' most prestigious award, was established to recognize those members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability, and self-sacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas.

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2018 Award Winners Parker Cup George Cummings 55 Years of Continous Climb Leadership Ray Sheldon Montague Cup Rick Craycraft Hardesty Cup Flora Huber Parker Cup 55 Years of Continuous George Cummings Climb Leadership Ray Sheldon

16 Peaks Award Gary Bishop Amy Graham Chris Killmer Oregon Cascades Award Scott Auble Gary Bishop Chris Killmer

Montague Cup Rick Craycraft

Hardesty Cup Flora Huber

Guardian Peaks Award Kirsten Auble Scott Auble Chris Killmer Kevin Kohberger Alex Lockard Stephanie Nelson Greg Simons Hike Lead Awards Rex Breunsbach (500) Bob Smith (500) Daniel Van Rossen (300) Lisa Ripps (200) Matt Reeder, Marilyn Zigler (150) Leslie Shotola, Jennifer Trask (100) Hike Mileage Awards Bill Stein (1,000) Reena Clements (250)

16 Peaks Award Amy Graham

16 Peaks Award Gary Bishop 2017/2018 Mazama Annual 81


2018 Celebration, continued from previous page

Ray Sheldon

Rick Craycraft

by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Acting Executive Director

by Kate Evans, Conservation Committee Co-Chair

55 Years of Continuous Climb Leadership

A

t the Mazamas we have our tradition of service awards, but sometimes there is something so unique that happens that you need to go off-book and create a special award. Ray Sheldon joined the Mazamas in 1960 and became a climb leader in 1963. Each year since then, through last September, he has led at least one climb. From Three Fingered Jack to Plummer Peak to Mt. Rainier, and probably just about everything in between, Ray has led people to the summits of peaks big and small, and almost assuredly he did it with a smile on his face. Last spring when we were transitioning from the old climb card system to the new website climb application process, Ray Sheldon called me up and said he wanted some help learning how to put a climb on the schedule. Even though he’d been having some difficulties with his knees he was absolutely determined to add a climb to the schedule with the new system. He told me “I want to say that I have gone from the old days of sign-up sheets on the wall at the old clubrooms on 19th to the new-fangled system we have today.” As it is hard not to do with Ray, I smiled on my end of the line and told him that I would be happy to show him the way. So with a brief training session, Ray got his Plummer Peak climb listed on the schedule for September 5, 2018. And as it got to be July I started thinking that I should sign up for that climb. I mean, how many times would I have the opportunity to go and climb with Ray? So I signed up and called Ray and told him I wanted to join him. He tried to beg me off the climb, “Are you sure you want to go? You know we are going to go slow, right?” I assured him that I was fine with whatever pace the climb would take and that not only did I want to go but I was going to bring a friend along. I am so thankful that Ray was willing to take me along on this Classics climb. It was truly one of the most fun Mazama climbs I have ever been on. The focus was on camaraderie—one of the things we Mazamas are known for—and the enjoyment of simply being out on the trails on a gorgeous day in September. We achieved our intended destination, but this was one of those climbs where it was truly the journey that mattered. Ray Sheldon is a past Mazama President, he has received the Parker Cup, and he is an Honorary member. He has been a wonderful leader in so many capacities during his almost 60 years at our organization. He was instrumental in building the Mazama Trail on Mt. Hood in 1993 and has helped tend the trail almost annually since then. This year, we recognize Ray for his 55 years of continuous climb leadership, during which he has led 189 individual climbs.

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Montague Cup

R

ick Craycraft is better known as a hike leader and climber than as a conservationist, but we will be rectifying that this evening. He joined the Mazamas in 1988, and at the behest of Jim Wallace, started leading hikes in 1991, usually Cs in the winter. He always makes a point of seeing that non-Mazamas and new Mazama hikers feel welcome; he also has introduced many newbies to climbing, including Mazama staff members, usually with Mt. Ellinor or Mount St. Helens climbs. He is a climber himself, with 375 summits and the Mazama 16 Peaks Award. When we think of conservation efforts we often think of outward-facing work, such as wilderness designations, development of mountain areas, or stewardship work. But oftentimes some of the biggest impacts we can make in the area of conservation is to get our own house in order. And tonight’s awardee is one of the biggest champions of ensuring that the Mazamas limit their own impact on our environment. Rick is a tireless advocate for recycling. He has gone through the MMC with a fine-tooth comb to ensure we are doing everything possible to limit the amount of trash we add to the waste stream. He has single-handedly built a massive recycling effort at the MMC. He wasn’t content with simply having blue bins in every room. Those blue bins are a part of it, but there are also bins to collect food scraps, paper plates, plastic cups, and other items that he has found a way to recycle. Since he started the recycling program for Clif product wrappers, he has packaged up more than 1,500 wrappers to return to Clif for recycling. It isn’t easy to find a place to recycle block styrofoam, but Rick will call around town until he finds the right location and time where he can unload it (although it does oftentimes live in our boiler room until that time arrives). Keep in mind, this is a dirty process. Because as we all know, even when you make the receptacles available, people don’t always recycle properly. Rick cares SO much about recycling that he goes through all of the trash cans and pulls out items that can be recycled. This is the true definition of going above and beyond. This one-man crusader has not only helped to surely keep hundreds of pounds of items out of the trash, but he has also helped to shape minds and attitudes. When a recycling system is available to you, you start to think twice about what you use and how you use it. Sarah Bradham reports that many people have told her that they have reduced their usage of single-use items because of Rick's tutelage. Rick Craycraft truly deserves to be honored for all of his work in this area of conservation with the Montague Conservation Cup.


White River snowshoe. Photo: Kevin Cowley

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55 years years of of community community PAF PAF 2017 2017 recap recap by bySarah SarahBradham, Bradham,Director DirectorofofMarketing Marketing&&Communications Communications by Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications The ThePortland PortlandAlpine AlpineFest Fest(PAF) (PAF)2017 2017 The Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) 2017 Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) 2017 isisinThe the books and what a year it was! in the books and what a year it was! is in the books and what a year it was! books what a yeartoit For year we Forour our5th 5th yearand weendeavored endeavored towas! For our 5th year we endeavored toyet fifth year, we endeavored create our biggest and best festival create our biggest and best festivalto yet create our biggest and best festival yet best festival with more opportunities throughout with more opportunities throughoutyet with more opportunities throughout the theweek weekfor foreveryone everyonewho wholoves lovestotoplay play week for everyone who loves everyone who loves to to play inthe the mountains. in the mountains. in theinmountains. play the mountains. PAF17 PAF17included includedaaweeknight weeknightspeaker speaker PAF17 included a weeknight PAF17 included a weeknightspeaker speaker series, series,clinics clinicsand andseminars, seminars,the the the series, clinics and seminars, the Portland PortlandIce IceComp, Comp,and andThe TheSummit. Summit. TheSummit. Summit. Portland Icesaw Comp, andnumbers The This year we record This year we saw record numbersasaswe we This year we saw record numbers aswe This year we saw record numbers as repeatedly repeatedlyhad hadsell sellout outcrowds crowdsatateach each we repeatedly crowds repeatedly hadhad sell sell-out out crowds at each event. event.Our Ourweeknight weeknightevents eventsincluded included at each event. Our weeknight events event. Our weeknight events included gear-filled raffles offered great gear-filled rafflesthat that offered great included gear-filled raffles that gear-filled raffles that offered great opportunities for our participants toto opportunities for our participants offered great opportunities for our opportunities for our participants to pick up gear asaswell pick upawesome awesome gear wellasashelp help participants to pick up awesome gear pick up awesome gear as well as help raise funds for that raise funds forcauses causes thatare are causes as well as to help raise funds raise funds for causes that for are important our participants, important to our participants, that are important to our participants, important to our participants, including the Northwest Avalanche including the Avalanche including the Northwest Northwest Avalanche including the Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC), Outdoor Alliance, Center (NWAC), Outdoor Alliance, Center (NWAC), Outdoor Alliance, Center of (NWAC), Outdoor Alliance, Friends Hyalite Canyon, and the Friends of Hyalite Canyon, and the Friends of Hyalite Canyon, and the Friends of Hyalite Canyon, and the Mazamas Trail Stewardship program. Mazamas Trail Stewardship program. Mazamas Trail Trail Stewardship Stewardship program. program. Mazamas This Thisyear yearwe wewere werealso alsoaiming aimingto to This year we were also aiming This the yeardiversity we wereand alsoinclusivity aimingto to of increase increase the diversity and inclusivity increase the the diversity diversity and and inclusivity inclusivity of increase of PAF. We sought out women toto PAF. Weactively actively sought outout women of PAF. We actively sought women PAF. We actively sought out women to be involved ininthe festival, and be involved the festival, andand to be involved in the festival, be involved in the festival, and partnered with REI on our Adventure && partnered partnered with with REI REI on on our our Adventure Adventure & partnered with REI on our Adventure Inspiration movie night that featured Inspiration movie night that featured & Inspiration movie night that Inspiration moviecross-section night that featured films with a broad ofof films with a broad cross-section featured films withcross-section a broad crossfilms with a broad ofof adventurers. We aamix adventurers. Wealso alsooffered offered mix of section of adventurers. We also offered adventurers. We also offered a mix of free and paid events in order to free and paid events inevents order to a mix of free and paid in free and paid events inwith order to encourage individuals encourage individuals withvarying varying order to encourage individuals with encourage individuals with financial means totobe able totovarying financial means be able varying financial means to be able to financial means to be able to participate. participate. participate. participate. The ThePortland PortlandIce IceComp Compsaw sawthe the The Portland Ice Comp saw the The Portland Ice Comp sawGranite the move to a new venue at Planet move to a new new venue venue at at Planet Planet Granite Granite move to in a newPearl venueDistrict. at Planet Granite Portland Portland inthe the Pearl The size Pearl District. District.The Thesize in the Pearl District. The size ofPortland Planet Granite allowed for of Planet Granite allowed foraamuch much size of Planet Granite allowed for a of Planet Granite allowed for a much larger asaswell excellent larger crowd aswell wellas excellent muchcrowd larger as crowd as excellent larger crowd as well as excellent viewing viewingfor forspectators spectatorsfrom frommany many many viewing vantage for spectators from many different different vantagepoints. points. different vantagewe points. from our Year Yearafter afteryear year wehear hear from our Year after our year we hear from our PAFletes isis crowd isone oneofof PAFleteshow how ourPAF PAFcrowd crowd one PAFletes how our PAF crowd is one of the most enthusiastic, excited, and of the most enthusiastic, excited, the most enthusiastic, excited, andand the most enthusiastic, excited,and and knowledgeable knowledgeablefestival festivalcrowds, crowds, andthis this knowledgeable festival crowds, and year exception. Many ofofour thiswas year was no exception. ofthis year wasno no exception. ManyMany our year waslove no exception. Many of our athletes toto PAF our athletes love to return tobecause PAF athletes loveto toreturn return PAF because athletes love to return to PAF because

ofofall allofofYOU YOUwho whomake makeititsuch suchaa of allfestival. ofofYOU who make itathlete such a because all of YOU who make great Our PAF17 great festival. Our PAF17 athlete great festival. Our PAF17 athlete itroster such awas great festival. Our filled with new roster was filled withboth bothPAF17 newand and rosterroster was filled with both new and athlete was filled with both familiar faces, and included familiar faces, and includedKatie Katie familiar faces, and included Katie new and familiar faces, and included Bono, Bono,Marcus MarcusGarcia, Garcia,Dawn DawnGlanc, Glanc, Bono, Marcus Garcia, Dawn Glanc, Katie Bono, Marcus Garcia, Dawn John Long, Aaron Mulkey, John Long, Aaron Mulkey,Jess Jess John Long, AaronAaron Mulkey, Jess Jess Glanc, JohnChris Long, Roskelley, and Roskelley, ChrisWright, Wright,Mulkey, andGraham Graham Roskelley, Chris Wright, and Graham Roskelley, Chris Wright, and Graham Zimmerman. ininour Zimmerman.For Forthe thefirst firsttime time our Zimmerman. For the first time inour our Zimmerman. For the first time in 5-year history, some of our athletes 5-year history, some of our athletes 5-year history, some ofour our athletes 5-year history, some of athletes came solely to cameto tothe thefestival festival solely toteach teach came to the festival solely to teach came to the festival solely to teach clinics, clinics,which whichallowed allowedus ustotoincrease increase clinics, which allowed us to increase clinics, which allowed us to increase our ourclinic clinicofferings. offerings. our clinic offerings. sponsors also our clinic offerings. The majority The majorityofofour our sponsors also The majority of our sponsors also The majority of our sponsors also continue totosupport PAF each year continue support PAFeach eachyear year continue to support PAF continue tofestival supportprovides PAF each because the sosoyear many because the festival providesso many because the festival provides many because the festival provides so many interested and engaged outdoors interested and engaged outdoors interested and engaged outdoors interested and engaged outdoors people. This year celebrated eight people. Thisyear yearwe wecelebrated celebratedeight eight people. This people. This yearwe we celebrated eight sponsors/partners who have been sponsors/partners who have been sponsors/partners who have been sponsors/partners who have been with PAF since the beginning: Grivel with PAF sincethe thebeginning: beginning:Grivel Grivel with PAF since with PAF since the beginning: Grivel (presenting sponsor), the Mountain (presenting sponsor), the Mountain (presenting sponsor), the Mountain (presenting sponsor), the Mountain Shop (lead sponsor), Petzl, Mountain Shop (lead sponsor), Petzl,Mountain Mountain Shop (lead sponsor), Petzl, Shop (lead sponsor), Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, Montbell, The North Face, Hardwear, Montbell, The North Face, Hardwear, Montbell, The North Face, Hardwear, Montbell, The North Face, CiloGear, and Base Camp Brewing CiloGear, and Base CampBrewing Brewing CiloGear, and Base Camp CiloGear, A and Base Camp Brewing Company. big thanks totothese folks Company. A bigthanks thanksto thesefolks folks Company. A big these Company. A big thanks to these folks asaswell asasall ofofour 2017 sponsors well all our 2017 sponsors as well as all of our 2017 sponsors who as well as all of our 2017 sponsors who PAF for our whomake make PAFpossible possible for our make PAF possible for our mountain who make PAF possible for our mountain mountaincommunity. community. community. mountain community. We also want totothank our huge also want thank huge WeWe also want to thank ourour huge army We also want tofor thank our huge army of volunteers showing up inin army of volunteers for showing up ofarmy volunteers for showing up in force of volunteers for showing up in force totomake this aa make thisaweek week toforce maketothis week success—many force make this week a success—many returned multiple success—many multiple returned multiplereturned times throughout success—many returned multiple times throughout the week tototake times throughout the week takeon on the weekthroughout to take on the different roles. times week to take on different roles. The time, talent, and different roles. The time, talent, and The time, talent, and time, enthusiasm our different roles. The talent, and enthusiasm our brought enthusiasm ourvolunteers volunteers brought volunteers brought to their roles was enthusiasm our volunteers brought to their roles was a true stand out to their roles was a true stand out a true stand outwas of the week andout is ofof to their roles a true stand of the week and is something to be the week to and something to be something beis celebrated. the week and is something to be celebrated. celebrated. We look forward to going through celebrated. We look totogoing through We lookforward forward going through all the feedback provided by our Wefeedback look forward to going through all the provided by our all the feedback provided by our and participants, volunteers, athletes, all the feedback provided by our participants, volunteers, athletes, participants, volunteers, athletes, partners so that we can continue to participants, volunteers, athletes, and that we andpartners partners that wecan cancontinue continue bring you one so ofsothe best mountain partners so that we can continue toand you one best tobring bringWe youcan’t oneof ofthe the best festivals. wait to see what to bring you one of the best mountain festivals. wait mountain festivals.We Wecan’t can’t waittoto PAF18 brings—we’ll see you there! mountain festivals. We can’t wait to see what PAF18 brings—we’ll see what PAF18 brings—we’llsee seeyou you see what PAF18 brings—we’ll see you there! there! there!

192 192 83 83

clinic clinic clinic participants participants participants seminar seminar seminar partcipants partcipants partcipants

492 492 1,638 1,638

attendees attendees atattendees The Summit at at The The Summit Summit festival festival festival participants participants participants

19 19 55 88 14 14 88

clinics clinics clinics seminars seminars seminars evening evening evening events events events athletes athletes athletes venues venues venues

68 68 140 140

volunteers volunteers volunteers volunteer volunteer volunteer positions positions positions

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 85


Clockwise, from top: PAF18 athlete Libby Sauter leading the Fast & Light clinic at Beacon Rock. Photo: Jacob Raab. Our non-profit partner PDX Climbers of Color tabling at The Summit. Photo: Lacey Breton. Dawn Glanc climbing the pro route at Planet Granite. Photo: Lacey Breton. Ice Comp winners, from left: Laura Pigion, Mazama President (5th), Alicia Brittain (4th), Kylie Cullen (3rd), Emily Mannisto (2nd), Rebecca Madore (1st), Jonathan Barrett (1st), Todd Torres (2nd), Cody Stevenson (3rd), Andrew Lamb (4th), Aaron Madore (5th). Photo: Stephen Zadrozny. Suvi Chisolm and Polina Polikakhina selling raffle tickets at The Summit. Photo: Lacey Breton.

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PAF18:

A Week To Remember

N

ow in its sixth year, the Portland Alpine Fest is a week-long festival devoted to mountain recreation. PAF18 was held from Nov. 12–18 and consisted of 35 events at eight different locations during its seven-day run. There were eight athletes, 80+ volunteers, and ~1,500 participants in our 23 clinics, five seminars, and seven evening events. The clinics were a mix of climbingfocused, hands-on training on ice, steep snow, and rock. This year, we had our first-ever outdoor clinic and kid’s rock climbing clinic. We also hosted two seminars discussing diversity and inclusion in the outdoors. All of our clinics, three of our seminars, five of the evening events (including The Summit), and the Portland Ice Comp competitor slots were sold out.

Thank You To Our Sponsors!

The Portland Ice Comp, now in its 13th year and second year at Planet Granite, had an equal number of male and female participants. The men’s Ice Comp competitor slots were all claimed within the first 36 hours of registration, and the women’s competitor slots were filled a week before the event. Our biggest evening of the week, The Summit, was held at the newly-remodeled Melody Center where Quinn Brett, Alan Rousseau, and Libby Sauter spoke to a sold-out crowd. The evening included a vendor and community partner fair, food and drinks, prizes, a huge raffle, and lots of social time.

CAMP Beal Ropes OMC Gear Patagonia REI Co-op Union Wine Co.

PRESENTING SPONSOR

Grivel

HOSTED BY

The Mazamas LEAD SPONSORS

Adidas Terrex Mountain Shop Planet Granite GOLD SPONSORS

NONPROFIT PARTNERS

Alpenglow American Alpine Club Betties360 Mount St. Helens Institute Natives Outdoors NWAC PDX Climbers of Color ROMP Wild Diversity

SILVER SPONSORS

Airflare Arc’teryx Base Camp Brewing Company Embark Exploration Co. Kaf Adventures Leatherman Ledlenser Leki Lowa Mountain Hardwear MSR The North Face Petzl Pro Photo Supply Rab Sawyer The Source Climbing Center Viso Energy BRONZE SPONSORS

CiloGear Clearly Kombucha Clif Bar Kind Snacks La Sportiva NW Alpine Thermarest Trail Butter Wy’east Wolfpack

Athletes: Scott Bennett, Quinn Brett, Yassine Diboun, Dawn Glanc, Marcus Garcia, Alan Rousseau, Libby Sauter, and Paul Taylor.

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outings & Reports

Blue hour at Trillium Lake. Photo: Jessica Selig

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Mazama Outings Mt. Thielsen/Diamond Peak PCT Section Hike August 8–13, 2016 by Joe Whittington Six backpackers section hiked 57 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from North Crater Trailhead to Summit Lake, completing several climbs along the way. A seventh climber joined us on day one to climb Mt. Thielsen. After driving from Portland, with a stop to cache water at Windigo Pass, the group settled into camp at Diamond Lake. The next morning’s climb began at the Mt. Thielsen Trailhead near Highway 138. In spite of heavy snow reports only nine days earlier, the trail was almost snow-free. The weather also cooperated—the only evidence of lightning were fulgurites on Mt. Thielsen’s summit. From the Latin for lightning, fulgurites form when a lightning charge strikes a sandy surface and fuses the sand into a glassy material. The day ended with sunset views over Diamond Lake and a late dinner at Diamond Lake Lodge. Day two began the main PCT hike, from the North Crater Trailhead to Thielsen Creek, with fairly frequent snow crossings north of Mt. Thielsen. The group enjoyed a little detour to climb Mt. Howlock, but thunder nixed the climb of Tipsoo Peak, adjacent to the 7,560-foot high point of the Oregon and Washington PCT. Day three’s hike was from Thielsen Creek to Windigo Summit, while day four included a side trip to climb Cowhorn Mountain en route to Summit Lake. At only 7,664 feet, this rock scramble rewarded everyone with a few wildflowers that survived the state’s July heat wave, views of surrounding peaks, and lots of opportunities to practice cow imitations. Leader Joe Whittington and co-leader Nicole Gaines bookended the trip by leading a successful climb of Diamond Peak. ʯ Mt. Thielsen Leaders: Joe Whittington & Nicole Gaines. Participants: Anita Bieker, Reuel Kurzet, Kathleen Welland, Kate Wolpert, Lesley Langan, Darcie Meihoff, Leigh Schwarz, Dan Smith.

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Mt. Thielsen outing, left to right: Kathleen Welland, Anita Bieker, Nicole Gaines, Joe Whittington, Reuel Kurzet, and Kate Wolpert.

Hells Canyon Backpack April 22–28, 2017 by Barbara McLean Hike leader Rex Breunsbach and coleader Reuel Kurzet guided ten hikers along the Snake River National Recreation Trail (SRNRT) on a 42-mile trip through Hells Canyon. More than 7,000 feet deep, Hells Canyon is North America’s deepest river gorge and forms a boundary between Oregon and Idaho. Weather, always a concern for backpackers, turned out to be surprisingly mild, rotating through bouts of rain, cloudy skies, sun, and wind. April and May, although still too chilly for rafters, are the best months to hike in the canyon. After a day’s drive from Portland, the group spent the night at a campground near White Bird, Idaho. The following day, after a hearty breakfast at Hoot’s Restaurant, the group hiked south from the SRNRT trailhead near Pittsburgh Landing to the historic Kirkwood Ranch—there were flush toilets! On that first day, there were a fair number of hikers returning from a weekend of camping upriver. Day two was a longer hike to Sheep Creek along a nicely graded route traversing meadows and cliff faces to Suicide Point,

400 feet above the river, the highest point on the trail. Sheep Creek provided a grassy campground. Day three on the trail dawned sunny and warmer; tents were left in place while the group hiked with daypacks south to Bernard Creek and the old McGaffee Cabin. The canyon has a long history of habitation by humans as well as other species. We saw bald eagles, hawks, salmon, and wildflowers. Backpack participants stayed warm, dry, and cheerful throughout their hike and were unanimous in their praise of Rex and Reuel’s great organization and leadership. ʯ Hells Canyon Leaders: Rex Breunsbach & Reuel Kurzet. Participants: Mee Choe, Kate Evans, Jay Feldman, Ron Ferguson, Barbara McLean, Elke Schoen, Terry Sherbeck, Joe Whittington.

Trinity Alps, California October 1–8, 2017 by Katie Foehl Why do lessons from shortcuts always have to be relearned? The first day’s trek to Stoddard Lake and then upward over boulders to McDonald Lake was one of the outing’s more memorable hikes. The enduring memory was due to the shortcut


taken on the return trip along an obscured, abandoned trail that led steeply uphill to the crest of a ridge before plunging a mile to join the return trail. Several areas were so overgrown that our boots were captured by plant tentacles. Fun? Are the other planned trails similar to this? Despite our hardships, the alpine paradise of California’s Trinity Alps presented spectacular rugged vistas for every hike on the outing. The variety in the terrain, with jagged peaks, expansive meadows, and deep blue lakes set in granite cirques rimmed with dense conifers, gives an overpowering sense of solitude in this vast wilderness area. Located at the southern end of the Klamath Mountains, the Trinity Alps Wilderness encompasses nearly 800 square miles, with hundreds of miles of trails crisscrossing the backcountry. Our party stayed at the Ripple Creek Cabins, located at the base of the Trinity Alps Wilderness Area, a two-hour drive from Redding, CA. Our six hikes ranged from seven to 11 miles, with elevation gains from 1,160 to 3,810 feet. Granite Peak was the highest peak we climbed, and the longest round-trip drive from the cabins was 41 miles. The weather was perfect, but some trailhead roads were a nightmare. The hike up Swift Creek Trail to Granite Lake travels through a mix of ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, and cedar, with old license plates nailed to a few of them about 15 feet off the ground. The plates don’t mark historic events, but rather help snow survey parties during the winter. The creek cuts through a solid rock gorge with many waterfalls and sparkling deep pools, finally ending at the lake. During lunch, a brazen squirrel snatched a brownie and stared down Leigh before sauntering into the bushes. Rex and Alice went swimming on the lake’s far side. Larry, Katie, Rex, and Alice climbed up granite boulders halfway around the lake for a different perspective. Where does the Trinity Alps name come from? The wilderness is divided into three regions—Green, White, and Red. The Green Trinities get their name from the vast forests covering the western portion. The White Trinities are composed of soaring and jagged granite peaks. The Red Trinities derive their color from red serpentine and peridotite rock—the high iron content of these igneous rocks makes some peaks appear rust-colored. While hiking to Long Canyon, Rex and Larry saw a bear cub run across the trail. There were patches of blue gentians along

Hells Canyon outing at McGaffee Cabin, a 1905 homestead located along the Snake River Trail. Left to right (back row): Ron Ferguson, Mee Choe, Jay Feldman, Terry Sherbeck. Left to right (front row): Reuel Kurzet, Barbara McLean, Joe Whittington, Elke Schoen, Kate Evans. Photo: Rex Breunsbach the trail, as well as mountain chickadees. Surprisingly, there were remnants of barbed wire fencing from 19th-century cattle grazing. Views along the steep ascent of Long Canyon looked up a classic U-shaped glacial valley. Glacial activity is easily seen around the lakes, lined by granite slabs and towering peaks. A local legend recounts that a fellow with a hangover named the Tangle Blue Lake route. For the first few miles, the trail was one of the rockiest of the outing. Moss on the cedars was such a bright green it seemed to glow in the sunlight. An ancient stove used by Forest Service workers was alongside the trail, along with cooking utensils. Seeing wildflowers in October was a real treat on many of the hikes. According to one source, only two peaks in the high eastern half of the range have maintained trails to the top. Numerous trails lead to summit scrambles and are so precipitous that the Forest Service refuses to officially recognize them as trails. The most strenuous hike of the outing, to 8,091foot Granite Peak, symbolized the word precipitous. At the summit, Jay found a Mazamas steel box and all found the gift of a 360-degree view that erased the efforts of the long, steep trek. A changing panorama of Trinities colors delighted the eyes far in the distance. A shady, woodsy hike ended at Bear Lake, a large alpine tarn in a cirque surrounded by jagged granite peaks. Smooth granite slabs rimmed the lake for another perfect

lunch spot. Fall foliage and a short drive back to the trailhead completed the charm of the last day’s hike. And after the first hike—no more shortcuts! ʯ Trinity Alps Leaders: Larry Solomon & Sherry Bourdin. Participants: Rex Breunsbach, Alice Brocoum, Jay Feldman, Katie Foehl, Leigh Schwarz.

Death Valley Hiking March 11–17, 2018 by Bob Breivogel Fourteen Mazamas traveled to Death Valley in California for a week of hiking and exploring the national park. We met Sunday, March 11 at Furnace Creek Campground, where we had a group site. Most members traveled by air to Las Vegas then rented cars for the drive to the park, while a few drove from Oregon. After setting up our tents and having dinner, we went to a Park Ranger star presentation— Death Valley is a Dark Sky Park and still allows good viewing of the Milky Way. Monday, we visited the Badwater Salt Flats, the lowest (-282 feet) spot in North America. We then hiked nearby Sidewinder Canyon (4.1 miles and 1,050 feet gain). We visited Natural Bridges and Devil’s Golf Course and ended the day with a scenic drive and sunset at Artists Pallet. Tuesday, we did an early morning hike at the Mesquite Dunes (2.5 miles, 200 feet

continued on next page 2017/2018 Mazama Annual 91


Outings, continued from previous page

Death Valley outing participants. Photo: Bob Breivogel

gain), followed by Mosaic Canyon (5 miles, 1,000 feet gain), and later the Salt Creek boardwalk to view desert pupfish. These fish are leftover remnants of a population existing when there was a much larger lake, and are adapted to live in very salty and shallow water. On returning to camp, we discovered that some high wind gusts had broken a pole in one tent and moved another some distance. Fortunately, there was a spare. Wind can often be an issue in Death Valley in the spring and precautions in tent setup are needed. Wednesday, we drove north to the Keane Wonder Mine to hike (4 miles, 1,000 feet gain). This is a very interesting abandoned gold mine that used a long tramway. It had recently reopened to visitation after years of work to stabilize it. After finishing the mine, we drove to Beatty, Nevada for cheaper gas and some ice cream, and nearby Rhyolite Ghost Town. Finally, we returned to Death Valley via spectacular Titus Canyon. This is a rather exciting drive on a narrow, one-way, unpaved road. In places, the canyon is barely wide enough to accommodate the roadbed. Thursday, we viewed a classic sunrise from Zabriskie Point, then hiked nearby Golden Canyon/Gower Gulch (6 miles, 500 feet gain). Later that day we visited the Furnace Creek Inn, a heritage national park lodge that had recently been renovated. Friday, we hiked Desolation Canyon (5 miles, 500 feet gain) followed by Pyramid Canyon (4 miles, 1,000 feet gain).

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The outing ended Saturday, March 17 when we packed up our campsite and headed home. ʯ Death Valley Leaders: Bob Breivogel & Rex Breunsbach. Participants: David Baumgarten, Teresa George, Tom Davidson, Whit Fellers, Chaz Shaw, Catherine Schiedler, Suzanne Armstrong, Ursula Edlund, Sherry Bourdin, Jean Hillebrand, Helen Wahl-Stephens, Greg Wahl-Stephens.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park May 12–20, 2018 by Reuel Kurzet Under the excellent leadership of Rex Breunsbach and assistant Alice Brocoum, 15 intrepid hikers enjoyed a delightful week exploring Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the adjacent Pisgah National Forest, and the small nearby towns of Maggie Valley, Waynesville, and Asheville, North Carolina. In spite of often-negative weather forecasts, the group successfully escaped all but occasional light sprinkles. (We’re still not sure how Rex managed that!) Previous Maggie Valley resident Jim Selby provided bonus insider information and local contacts, including a delicious potluck dinner with members of Haywood Hikers, the local hiking club. An especially enjoyable feature of the hikes was their variety. Several featured a

magnificent diversity of wildflowers; some showed off the local birds, butterflies, and other wildlife; a few traced the social history of early settlements and modern Appalachian Trail (AT) thru-hikers; and still others highlighted the regional metamorphic geology. Although the famed rhododendrons were not yet in bloom, the hikes were magnificent for wildflower enthusiasts. In addition to the eastern variations of common Pacific Northwest plants, there were many eastern specialties as well. Trilliums came in multiple varieties: burgundy, large white, and painted. Other exciting finds included flame azaleas, mountain laurel, trout lily, Jack-in-thePulpit, Mayapple, and a large patch of pink Lady Slipper orchids (whose location was told to us by a local hiker during our potluck). Overall, we identified some 40 flowers and shrubs. This was in addition to the many kinds of deciduous trees, plus a few conifers such as Fraser fir, typical of the “Canadian alpine forest” resulting from the area’s geologic history. Geologist and assistant leader Alice Brocoum brought the local geology to life for the group in a brief evening lecture, then enriched her talk by pointing out and identifying the various rocks on our hikes, particularly at Lookinglass Rock. The mountain itself is a granitic pluton formed from magma that floated up into the surrounding metamorphic rock. Later erosion, and possibly human activity, exposed the granitic surface. White and yellow feldspar dikes (intrusions) provided colorful contrast. Much of the rock along the trail was mica—perhaps its shiny surface gave the mountain its name. En route to the summit of Mt. LeConte (elevation 6,594 feet), we discovered another interesting geological feature: Alum Cave. According to Place Names of the Smokies, published by the Great Smoky Mountains Association, this overhanging cliff (not a true cave) is named for the presence of mineral salts once referred to as alums, but now called pseudo-alums. Beginning in the 1830s and again during the civil war, miners found Epsom salts, saltpeter, and perhaps other minerals. The only important mineral found was saltpeter, used to make gunpowder, but not enough was present to mine. Wildlife was plentiful, too. On Charlies Bunion hike, one participant was nearly run over by three ungulates. One crossed


Great Smoky Mountains outing participants. Photo: Rex Breunsbach

the trail immediately in front of him and two directly behind; they went by so fast that he couldn’t tell whether they were deer or elk! Other, less arresting sightings included kaleidoscopes* of yellow and black swallowtail butterflies, a centipede, and a box turtle. According to the National Park Service, the Smokies are the “salamander capital of the world” with 30 varieties. We spotted one black-chinned red salamander, a type reportedly common throughout the park at lower elevations. Keen-sighted participants also saw a Peregrine falcon, a raven, wild turkeys, scarlet tanagers, and an eastern phoebe. The social history of the area was best viewed on the Little Cataloochee Valley hike, where we visited two early settler cabins and an old church and graveyard. Charlies Bunion and Max Patch provided handy Appalachian Trail shelters for our midday lunches and conversations with thru and section hikers. Following a group dinner at Cataloochee Ranch, we enjoyed a brief talk on wolves by “Wolfman,” a local retired wildlife biologist who keeps three of them. He brought one wolf with him, which calmly tolerated petting. Group members, in various numbers and

combinations, also explored many of the rich and varied local cultural offerings: Maggie Valley Opry, where banjo music was featured; the Stompin’ Ground, to see Appalachian clog dancing; the Cherokee Museum of the Eastern Band of Cherokee, who were not forced to walk the Trail of Tears; and the Folk Arts Center on Blue Ridge Parkway, exhibiting traditional crafts that are being revived. All of the hikes featured wide views over the Smoky Mountains, sometimes glowing in countless shades of spring greenery, other times shrouded in their famous “smoky” fog. According to a park history site, the Smokies are named for the blue mist that always seems to hover around the peaks and valleys. The Cherokee called them shaconage, (shah-con-ahjey) or “place of the blue smoke.” Overall, the group had a delightful, diverse, and memorable Great Smoky Mountains National Park experience, with excellent leadership, hikes, views, plants, animals, rocks, and camaraderie! * Yes, I looked this up: a group of butterflies is a “kaleidoscope.” However, others have called it a “swarm” or “rabble.” Just one of the many new things learned on

this outing! ʯ Great Smoky Mountains Leaders: Rex Breunsbach & Alice Brocoum. Participants: Bill Bens, Bill Dewsnap, Joanne Fitzgerald, Karol Kochsmeier, Chris Ling, Don McCoy, Melinda McCoy, Barbara McLean, Catherine Schiedler, Randy Selig, Terry Sherbeck, Tony Spiering, Mary Spiering, Michelle Wynkoop, Marilyn Zigler.

Hiking Glacier National Park July 21-28, 2018 by Richard Getgen This was my fifth lead of a Mazama Outing to Glacier National Park (2000, 2005, 2008, 2013, and 2018). Robert Smith was my assistant for the ninth time in as many years. Our group of 28 stayed at the St. Mary’s KOA on the east side of the park. Participants were able to choose from 13 hiking options over the five activity days. Richard led Iceberg Lake, Garden Wall, Baring-St. Mary-Virginia Falls, Grinnell Lake Loop, and Bullhead Lake. Robert led Medicine Lake-Grizzly Lakes, Otokomi Lake, Iceberg Lake, and Hidden Lake

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Outings, continued from previous page

Glacier National Park outing participants. Photo: Unknown

Overlook. Rex led Siyeh Pass, Highline Trail to Granite Park Chalet, Grinnell Glacier, and Ptarmigan Tunnel. Over the past 18 years, the park has become significantly more congested. Logan Pass parking lot fills up before the visitor center even opens, and Many Glacier Road is closed between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. because all the parking has filled at the various trailheads and tourist sites. It’s a beautiful park, and very popular. Rugged mountains, breathtaking views, diverse wildlife, and plentiful wildflowers have made this a destination of choice for us. ʯ Glacier Leaders: Richard Getgen & Robert Smith. Participants: Carol Beauclerk, Rex Breunsbach, Sue Brickey, Alice Brocoum, Barbara Collings, Bill Dewsnap, Ursula Edlund, Sharon Epstein, Peggy Eurman, Lonnie Feather, Jay Feldman, Dyanne Foster, Carol Getgen, Noreen Haines, Chris Lang, Robyn Lee, Roberta Mansfield, Mary May, Terry Morrow, Karen Oyler, Ralph Oyler, Cheryl Polan, Rick Pope, Kitty Tsoi, Ingrid Winters, Joey Zarosinski.

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Hiking in the North Cascades August 12–19, 2018 by Brian Goldman Despite occasional burning eyes, a touch of wheezing, and mountain views that can be best described as impressionistic from the smoke that blanketed the region during an outing to the North Cascades during the week of August 12-19, 2018, we enjoyed superb, rain-free hiking on well-groomed, gently switch-backed trails. We hiked six trails: Yellow Aster Butte, Heliotrope Ridge, Goat Mountain, Skyline Divide, Hannegan Peak, and Chain Lakes Loop from Artist’s Point. Hundreds of years ago, members of the Nooksack or Skagit tribes lived in this vicinity, and in the 19th century, fur traders and prospectors. We fell into a pattern of early rising, leaving our rustic cabins at the Logs at Canyon Creek (in the small town of Glacier), carpooling at 7:30 a.m. to the trailhead to avoid traffic and the heat. This year, fewer cars were driving on the Forest Service roads—the smoke kept many away—and fewer mosquitoes and flies on the trials than in previous years due to the extended heat and dryness. “What did you see on top?” we asked early-morning hikers who had already

summited these trails. “Well, we saw terrific wildflowers,” was one response. Many were disappointed by not seeing all the distant peaks that we could have seen on less smoke-filled days. The annual Pleiades Meteor Shower was also obscured. On our second day, as we hiked to Heliotrope Ridge, we passed through old-growth and entered the 117,900-acre Mt. Baker Wilderness. We hiked up to Heliotrope Creek, which has a reputation for being impassable and/or dangerous since it is a fast-moving, knee-high stream that rises considerably during the afternoon as the Coleman Glacier melts. We decided not to cross this stream. A solo hiker from Barcelona, Spain took our sage advice and joined us for a short while as we took the alternative and steep climber’s route, where several tents had established base camps prior to summiting Mt. Baker. Since it was a moderately clear day, we took an extended lunch on a windy ridge with a view of Mt. Baker, the most heavily glaciated mountain in the Cascades after Mt. Rainier, and the expansive Coleman Glacier. The succulent huckleberries burst with flavor and we became adept at picking them without breaking our stride. Driving to the Skyline Divide trail, we saw a bald eagle spring off a branch above the road, annoyed by our intrusive vehicles.


After parking in the nearly empty lot, we hiked this gently-graded, hemlock and Douglas fir forested trail beautifully stairstepped with railroad ties for the first two miles. Finally, we reached the Divide, a 6,000-foot ridge, and saw hazy views (we were getting accustomed to looking at the mountains as if we were in a Chinese mountain landscape painting) of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. We meandered up and down several steep knolls toward the base of Chowder Ridge and Hadley Glacier before a long lunch. Because of a shift in the winds, Hannegan Peak offered an exhilarating view of Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Sefrit, Ruth Mountain, Goat Mountain, Mt. Larrabee, the High Divide, Nooksack Ridge, and the Picket Range. Finally, blue skies and distant peaks! We had to park several hundred yards from the trailhead as there were landslides and an enormous washout during the winter which obliterated the road. We saw Washington Trail Association (WTA) volunteers on this trail (as we did on several other trails) bagging small rocks used to protect campsites and streams to prevent erosion. Others focused on doing trail maintenance. We had a long lunch and watched a mother ptarmigan and her offspring scratch the dirt and fearlessly hop within a few feet of us. How do they know we’re not predators? In a sign of the times, on the way down the peak we heard the “ping, ping!” of cellphones suddenly in range, and almost everyone stopped to check emails and make phone calls. On the way back to the trailhead the biting flies and mosquitoes were minimal compared to the trip reports we’d read. Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “the Earth laughs in flowers.” If so, the North Cascades, said to have the highest degree of floral biodiversity in the United States, was bursting with laughter. We saw a wide range of flowers including baby elephant’s head, cow parsnip, fireweed, foxglove, lupin, mariposa, pink and yellow monkey flowers, white paintbrush (rare!), parrot’s beak, partridgefoot, pearly everlasting; penstemon, purple and yellow aster, purple valerian, red heather, sea foam, and yarrow. There is a great delight in listening to Mazamas, voices rising in ecstasy, as they identify and appreciate wildflowers: “Ooh! Amazing! Beautiful! Look at that color!” The geology of this area is equally interesting. The North Cascades (also known as the American Alps) has a complex tectonic history which has created ancient basement rocks, igneous

rocks (granite intrusions), columnar andesite (which look like gigantic honeycombs), metamorphic rocks (gneiss, showing as salt and pepper banding), and uplifted block faulting (such as Mt. Shuksan). Heavy rainfall and snow created the largest concentration of glaciers in the continental US. In turn, those glaciers created aretes, cirques, horns, roches moutonees, moraines, and breccias ( fascinating depositions of rock fragments filled with mineral cement). Despite the smoky environment, we all appreciated hiking the groomed trails in rain-free weather, immersing in what the Japanese call shinrin yoku ( forest bathing), and eating the tasty huckleberries. Although the trails were well-marked, we were grateful to have our GPS and peak-

awareness). While hiking, we alternated between concentrating on our next steps, especially on more narrow, dangerous, rocky paths, and observing the North Cascade peaks, which certainly held our attention. Both states of being, at least momentarily, calmed our chattering minds. On the last day, some of us hiked the Chain Lakes Loop clockwise from Artist’s Point to the Heather Meadows Visitor Center. The ranger at the Center said the Forest Service built up these trails and the WTA maintains them. If the many visitors from Seattle, Bellingham, and Vancouver were expecting a respite from the smoke, reportedly the worst in 20 years, they were mistaken. Our eyes burned slightly as we traveled the loop. We came across a large,

North Cascades outing participants at the Heather Meadows Visitor Center. Photo: Alice Brocoum

finder apps to help us find mountain tops in the haze. There is research suggesting that the Hoh River Valley in Olympic National Park is one of the quietest spaces in the continental United States. I suspect the North Cascades is a close second. We were able to hear waterfalls five miles away and the voices of hikers and their dogs hundreds of yards away. The late Indian philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurti offered a series of lectures in Bombay, India, in the early 1980s. In one talk, he spoke about the difference between concentration ( forcing the mind to narrow down to a point and excluding other thoughts) and attention (a choiceless

beaver-sized marmot, who nibbled on greens above the trail and ignored us. We heard pikas whistling but didn’t see them. One intrepid skier slowly slid down the remnants of a snowbank. Happy children with light packs scampered along the trails. We saw lots of cheerful, tail-wagging dogs. ʯ North Cascades Leaders: Larry Solomon and Sherry Bourdin. Participants: Suzanne Armstrong; Rex Breunsbach, Alice Brocoum, Kathleene Belusko, Ann Brodie-Knope, Jay Feldman, Brian Goldman, Karol Kochsmeier, Linda Machtelinck, Leigh Schwarz.

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2017 Committee reports

Adventurous Young Mazamas Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) continues to introduce hundreds of new people to the Mazamas, and every year dozens take BCEP. Over time, we also see them become technical experts, assist on other committees and with BCEP, and become future climb leaders. We are a critical piece to recruiting new Mazama leaders and participants. Much of this success should first be credited to our exceptional committee: Reena Clements, Keith Dechant, and Sándor Lau. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to manage and guide the AYM ship effectively. A large part of attracting new leaders, our first goal this year, was largely gifted to us at our annual “Winter Weekend” retreat at the Mazama Lodge in January. Despite horrible weather this past winter, the weekend was bright and we treated our participants to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trips that created a very joyous atmosphere. For many, it was their first AYM event and for many more, definitely not their last. Following this success, we began to promote leadership efforts by engaging more directly with our participants. We

come across a lot of bright, energetic, and passionate people, and we believe leadership will make them even stronger and more confident in every facet of life. By the end of the year, we had two new leaders join us and currently have two in training. Toby Creelan became our first. After his approval, he led a spectacular array of events this spring and summer that incorporated overnight trips in the woods, along the coast, and at lookout towers. He also led hikes across the region, a trailrunning effort at Fifteenmile Creek, and continuously supports the committee. Kirk Rohrig was our other new leader after leading successful hikes at Cape Falcon and Green Point Mountain. Both Kirk and Toby were accepted into ICS and we look forward to their continuous development with the Mazamas. Leadership development was our second focus this year. Historically, AYM has been considered a bit siloed off from the rest of the Mazamas; yet, we firmly represent the organization by requiring our leaders to be Mazama members. I was guided to attend a Trail Trips meeting since our committees are similar. This was done to understand how they function, where we differ, and to perhaps bridge the gap between how we operate. This allowed us to discuss and enhance some of our policies:

▶ denotes subcommittees

1 A hike to an alpine summit in the summer or fall. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact with leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

by Mike Kacmar

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requiring leadership training, offering full reimbursement for MFA after five event leads, following the Trail Trips manual more closely, etc. Leadership development also came during our Labor Day trip to the Wallowas. Sándor Lau successfully led AYM’s first Q-hike1 in many years by taking participants up to the summit of the Matterhorn. Looking forward to next year, our focused goals are centered on enhancing leader recognition and incentives. In closing, AYM continues to be a strong illustration of what the Mazamas represents by our offerings. We are a creative and diverse collective that focuses on the long run with core values of community, development, loyalty, and commitment. ʯ Members: Mike Kacmar (chair), Reena Clements, Keith Dechant, Sándor Lau.

Classics by Marty Hanson

Classics Committee meets every other month and organizes hikes, walks, and events geared for long-time members. We arrange for quarterly events where attendance has ranged between 20 and 90 members and friends. Hikes and walks have ranged from 1 to 15 members,


typically dependent on weather. New 25-year members (member since 1992): Mitchell Auerbach, David Bass, Joyce Bonds, Joe Boyce, Gerald Brown, Liza Burney, Richard Conser, Chris Dearth, Monte Edwards, Karen Eichhorn, Stanley Enevoldsen, Craig Gass, Cathy and Drew Gaylord, Kenneth Glover, Jeff Golden, Nancy Graff, Tim Hale, Michael Hauty, Eric Hoem, Robert Joy, Kenneth Martin, Janet McCall, Ken Michel, Sarah Munro, Rahul Ravel, Michael Rosenbaum, Skip Smith, Laurence Spiegel, Jerry Stelmack, Sandra Suttie, Paul Tratnyek, Kristi Vaughn, Lou Whittaker, Glenn Widener, Marcus Wood, and Jeff Wright. New 50-year members (member since 1967): William Amos, Cara and Patrick Crowder, Patrick Feeney, William Firstenburg, Brian Holcomb, Donna Kurilo, Dennis Mead, Deryl Richter, Richard Shipley, Lois Stroup, Carol Strick Swain, and Phyllis Thorne. Congratulations, new members! ʯ Members: Rose Marie Gilbert (chair), Gordon Fulks, Marty Hanson, Flora Huber, Dick Miller, Darleen Nelson, Lanning Russell.

Climbing No report submitted. ʯ Members: Larry Beck (chair), Wim Aarts, Justin Brady, Lisa Brady, Carol Bryan, Heather Campbell, George Cummings, Walter Keutel, Eileen Kiely, Bill McLoughlin, Lynne Pedersen, Justin Rotherham, Ted Slupesky, Doug Wilson.

Conservation No report submitted. ʯ Members: Tom Bard and Barbara Weiss (co-chairs), Barry Buchanan, Stephen Couche, Kate Evans, Alexandra Howard, Mason Purdy, Barbara Wilson, Lea Wilson, Christine Yankel, Joan Zuber.

Critical Incident Stress Management by Marina Wynton

The Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) Committee was formed in 1992 as a result of an accident on Mt. Shuksan, recognizing the importance of providing emotional support for those affected by a traumatic incident. We are a group of trained peers and mental health professionals tasked with providing support to Mazama groups and individuals who have experienced an accident and are dealing with trauma as a result. Furthering our goal to offer skill-building

courses to the Mazama membership on mental health self-care before, during, and after a traumatic event, CISM and the Climbing Committee have teamed up to provide climb leaders with training provided by Tim Dietz with Behavioral Wellness Resources. Tim is a retired behavioral health specialist and fire services captain for a metropolitan Oregon fire district. He is in private practice as a licensed professional counselor and an internationally recognized speaker on crisis, grief, and staying happy and healthy for emergency services workers. CISM provided one debriefing this past year. Debriefings are confidential, therefore no details can be provided. We also made presentations to MFA, BCEP, ICS, and others to get the word out about CISM services and the value of debriefing in moving past trauma. The CISM team continues as a member of the International Critical Incident Stress Foundation (ICISF), affording the team and the Mazamas with special benefits, professional standards, and international recognition. The CISM team is on an “oncall” list in the event of a local tragic or traumatic event. CISM provides each team member with group and peer training certified by the ICISF. In addition, Nancy Nixon (a licensed mental health professional specializing in trauma), provided a workshop on self-care. This year, CISM was especially honored by an anonymous gift to fully fund our budget. The generous donation will allow additional training for committee members, the training of new members, contributions to climb leader training, and the continuation of outreach activities. We are very grateful for this recognition and generous gift in support of CISM. ʯ Members: Marina Wynton (chair), Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal*, Katie Foehl, Mary Green, Anne Harris*, Annie McCartney, Drew Prochniak*, Sandy Ramirez*, Cyndy Rutto*, Noelle Savatta*, Greg Scott, Karen Vernier*. *Licensed mental health professional

Education by Andrew Bodien

The Education Committee continued to build upon the new foundation put in place last year. This year, the committee addressed issues such as Field Session Guidelines, preparing for the new Mazama IT system, and managing the climbing walls. The most noteworthy work was

with the Climb Committee to agree upon a Memorandum of Understanding. We hope this can lay the foundation for a partnership and improve communication between our two committees. The Education Committee is made up of six at-large members and representatives from all of our education programs. It is tasked to oversee the operation of all formal Mazama education programs. As in the past, we continue to offer a variety of Skill Builder classes, including Canyoneering, Basic Rock, Rock Anchors, Crevasse Rescue, and Wilderness Navigation. This year, several long-time Skill Builder instructors stepped down so Skill Builder Tom Ulrich stepped up to find replacements. ʯ Members: Andrew Bodien (chair), Dana Beck, Larry Beck, Keith Campbell, Justin Colquhoun, Patrice Cook, Jennifer Cox, Carol Lane, Craig Martin, Daniel Mick, Rainer Rotherbacher, Suresh Singh, Patrick Thorpe, Tom Ulrich.

▶ Advanced Rock No report submitted. ʯ Members: Rayce Boucher and Philip Hunter (co-chairs), Sharon Birchfield, Stephen Hirai, Kirstin Labudda, Micah Mayes, Dian Ott, Jonathan Skeen, Stephanie Spence.

▶ Advanced Snow & Ice No report submitted. ʯ Members: Steven Heikkila (chair), Elisabeth Bowers, Lisa Brady, Keith Campbell, Derek Castonguay, Andrew Duncan, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, Chris Simmons, Stephanie Spence, Jed Stasch.

▶ Basic Climbing Education Program by Justin Rotherham

After several years at Jackson Middle School in SW Portland, BCEP found itself needing a new home. After an exhaustive three-month search, the dedication of the BCEP Committee finally paid off in late December with OHSU’s Collaborative Life Sciences Building. The building’s collegiate-level facilities, including a 400seat auditorium and individual classrooms, more than met the needs of our teams. BCEP continues to be a highly soughtafter program in the community. This year, well over half of the students used our early registration process, applying to the program as Mazama members. Then, on information night, savvy applicants

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2017 Committees, continued from previous page sat down on the floor of the Holman Auditorium to fill out their applications, resulting in the remaining slots filling within an hour of the end of info night. Students were divided among 23 teams led or co-led by 34 climb leaders. These leaders were supported by more than 200 volunteer instructors who gave more than 8,000 hours of service to this community. After 8 weeks, miles of hiking, hours of skills practice, and memories that will likely last a lifetime, 250 students graduated from the course excited to continue their journey. ʯ Members: Patrice Cook (chair), Jamie Anderson, Kerra Blakely, Laura Guderyahn, Brad Hupy, Joe Kaufman, Lindsey Mayo, Daniel Mick, Scott Osbron, Andy Phan, Teresa Redman, Justin Rotherham, Kaitlyn Rupert, Debra Sankovitz.

▶ Canyoneering No report submitted. ʯ Members: Wim Aarts (chair), Keith Campbell, Jake Childers, Kevin Clark, Karl Helser, Deb Hill, Kendra Kallevig, Tara Meyer, Brad Noren, Kaitlin Rupert, Tom Ulrich.

▶ First Aid by Yunlong Ong

The focus of Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) is to provide a framework for wilderness medicine management, a basic understanding of human anatomy and physiology, the recognition of signs and symptoms of various commonly encountered medical conditions, and decision making and risk management skills for in the field. Our focus is on inculcating prevention approaches and in identifying the right questions, rather than on providing the right “answers.” We focus on treatment principles that are practically oriented, useful, and applicable in varied backcountry settings. Students can expect to develop a good grounding in how to prepare for and carry out some basic treatment options using critical thinking. As always, the MFA committee could not possibly run the MFA courses without the dedication of our volunteers. The demand for MFA exceeded the ability of this committee to commit to more than two full MFA courses plus one recertification course. Our committee work would not be possible without the help of our skill checkers. Skill checkers are one of the

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reasons MFA is able to deliver consistent and constant treatment principles. We look to train more committee members in advanced wilderness training, so as to elevate some of these members to become instructors. For that reason, we sent two of our instructors to be American Heart Association-certified CPR/AED/ Basic Life Support instructors so as to provide more offerings for our members. We constantly look forward to increasing our cadre of volunteer instructors. This year, we had a strong show of support for the Fall 2016 and Winter 2017 MFA classes with a total of 88 members graduated, in addition to 33 members who received recertification. We encourage our graduates to continue their journey of learning, and like any skill to continue practice. Head out with like-minded friends who have similar risk acceptance levels and whom you can trust and communicate with in the backcountry. Curriculum updates are made constantly. Every effort is made to ensure our curriculum is reflective of industry-wide standards. We continue to work with the BCEP committee to offer a lecture on basic wilderness first aid principles. One of the MFA committee’s future goals is to offer more advanced wilderness medicine training to our members, in addition to MFA. The committee hopes to work with the Executive Board and other committees to bring more advanced medicine training offerings to our members in the near future. So stay tuned! Most importantly, I would like to extend a sincere thank you to our committee members who have volunteered tirelessly and unconditionally to ensure our program runs smoothly. Kudos to all our committee members! ʯ Members: Yunlong Ong (chair), April Berlin, Lisa Burton, Kim Edger, Ardel Frick, Nicole Gaines, Shane Garling, Megan Johnson, Lucas Levin, Andy Nuttbrock, Ryan O’Connell, Sarah Root, Cynthia Rutto, Kai Snyder, Daniel Solchanyk.

▶ Intermediate Climbing School by Brad Unruh

The top accomplishment of the ICS Committee was graduating 38 students from the program. Additionally, more than half of those graduates have indicated that they plan to apply for the Climb Leader

program or have already applied. 2017 was our second year doing ICS spring outings, giving the students a chance to apply everything they learned in the class to an actual climb. Eight out of 9 groups were able to execute their outing successfully. The students learned a lot about the need to streamline their packs, the value of moving more efficiently, and how to navigate in the alpine and off-trail. The ICS Committee hopes to continue this tradition and to improve the experience for students moving forward. We had over 100 volunteers at field sessions, nearly 25 more that only helped with lectures, and another 12 or so lecturers. We also have a committee of 12 and an admissions team of 14. A rough estimate would put us over 10,000 volunteer hours without including time spent planning the class, creating prospectuses, pairing students with instructors, etc. ʯ Members: Justin Brady, Jason Breaker, Stephanie Buer, Lori Coyner, Laura Guderyahn, Margret McCarthy, Kirk Newgard, Ben Stabley, Brad Unruh, Tracie Weitzman, Robin Wilcox.

▶ Nordic by Carol Lane

We implemented a more in-depth instructor support system by updating our lesson plans, instructor manuals, and instructor orientation so that we could incorporate the most current Professional Ski Instructor Association (PSIA) guidelines into our teaching model. Our 22 PSIA-trained volunteer instructors taught over 80 new and returning students. Each class went to various locations around Mt. Hood to ski in a variety of conditions based on beginner, novice, intermediate, backcountry, and telemark skill levels in order to practice their new abilities in different, scenic terrain over three weekend sessions. That’s 240 opportunities taken to engage students in the joy of cross-country skiing in a safe, encouraging, and empowering format. ʯ Members: Carol Lane (chair), Ed Conyngham, Doug Couch, Byron Rendar.

▶ Ski Mountaineering by Wei Chiang

This year we centralized and organized the Ski Mountaineering course content into Google Docs. This was a great undertaking, for which Alex MacDonald


took on hours of work, and will enable the committee to run the program more efficiently. We also developed ways to better track our volunteers’ skill sets and qualifications (MFA, Avy 1, Avy 2) so that we can easily recognize and distribute tour leaders and assistants with more focus on the field sessions and less focus on reinventing the process year after year. In the past few years, we have relied on the same group of tour leaders, who are now thinning out in numbers, so we knew we needed to develop a more consistent pool of new leaders to ease the burden. We instigated a tour leadership development process that identifies and encourages course alumni to become tour leaders in order to grow the pool of qualified leaders. This involves a provisional tour leader mentorship in which provisional leaders lead tours with two different established tour leaders for our field sessions. We then enroll them into MFA and Avy 2 training as they develop. The goal and budget should allow us to develop two or three new ski tour leaders each year. As the sport has evolved, our students’ snow skills are changing. Telemark skiing has become more and more rare as alpine touring grows exponentially. As gear gets lighter, it has enabled in-bounds downhill skiers to easily transition to the backcountry without the learning curve of telemark skiing. Splitboarding has also become more and more popular, but we have historically covered very little on the nuances for splitboarders, which there is a growing demand for. We hope to develop and diversify our tour leaders and assistants to better meet the needs of the demographics of the students enrolling in the program. We are also trying to grow the committee due to attrition in the past few years. We’re looking to provide resources such as pro deals to help with the cost and training from professional guides to further incentivize and educate our future leaders for the program. ʯ Members: Alex Macdonald, Catherine Schneider, Chris Jensen, Dick Iverson, Eric Rutz, Jeremy Buck, Jon Major, Karl Furlong, Kendra Seniow, Kevin Hardy, chair; Layne Russell, Mark Meyer, Mike Myers, Paul Mayhew, Rainer Rothbacher, Samson Garner, Tiffany Reitter Uranga, Tracy Andrews, & Wei Chiang.

Expedition by Laura Rumford

As climbers and mountaineers, we yearn to explore new territory, pursue dreams, climb higher, and expand our horizons. Sometimes, this takes us beyond our comfort zones and to defy our previous limits or boundaries. Occasionally, it transports us to places where few people have trodden, finding new routes, overcoming barriers and fears, and even achieving first ascents. The Expedition Committee supports these dreams by taking well-planned, documented, and researched proposals from concept to reality. The aim is to push the envelope of mountaineering for individuals and our local climbing community. We accomplish this goal by underwriting the expedition costs of those aspiring to climb in remote ranges, or who are looking for new expeditionary challenges that meet particular grant expectations. On their return, these grantees share their experiences with us through articles, presentations, and assistance in our educational programs. They also promote the Mazamas during their pursuits to world-class athletes and mountaineers using social media and other platforms. During 2017, we contributed towards the following expeditions: Rebecca Madore and Katie Mills (Ruth Gorge, AK); Kim and Stephen Edger (El Cocuy National Park, Columbia); Shane O’Hara and Philip Hunter (North Cascades National Park, WA); and Zach Clanton (Serendipity Spires, Telaquana Mountains, AK) Chris Wright, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman received the Bob Wilson Grant to pursue climbing objectives in the Himalayan Karakoram. ʯ Members: Eric Brainich, Jason Breaker, Steve Marston, Dave Roche, Laura Rumford, Roger Wong.

Families No report submitted. ʯ Members: Eric Einspruch (chair), Charles Blanke, Jenny Dempsey-Stein, Mike Doll, Rich Hunter, Henry Kofron, Jason Linse, Craig Martin, Justin Rotherham, Laura Rumford, Elizabeth Skorohodov, Bill Stein, Brian Wetzel.

Lodge No report submitted. ʯ Members: Bob Stayton (chair), Rex Breunsbach, Lisa Cenotto, Paul DelVecchio, Dyanne Foster, Brook Harris, Michael Kipley, Wayne Lincoln, Nicole Peltz, Marie Quarles, Jim VanLente, Adam Zeilenski.

Nominating by Alex Fox

As it has existed since its formation in 2012, the two major responsibilities of the Nominating Committee are the recruitment of candidates for both the Executive Council and Nominating Committee, and the administration of the annual election. Over the course of the fiscal calendar, members of the committee provided feedback on updated Executive Council member responsibilities and the effects of those changes on the recruitment process. Six candidates were identified for the Executive Council, with one withdrawing prior to the end of the nomination period. The final list of candidates consisted of five Executive Council candidates and three for the Nominating Committee. There were no petition candidates over this cycle. The committee is in the process of improving its process and documentation in support of its regular responsibilities. These responsibilities include, but are not limited to, tracking candidates, determining skill sets needed for the Executive Council, meeting milestones over the fiscal calendar, and conducting outreach to the rest of the organization. The election process moved to an e-voting system for the election closing in 2016, so 2017 marks the second cycle for this new process. The Nominating Committee is continuing to work on refining the process to ensure a smooth election while meeting the traditional process requirements of a Mazama election. As always, the Nominating Committee is looking for qualified candidates for the Executive Council for the next cycle. Interested parties should contact nominating@mazamas.org. ʯ Members: Alex Fox (chair), Bertie August, Larry Beck, Keith Campbell, Matt Carter, Lis Cooper, Bradley Noren, Kristie Perry, Joan Zuber.

Outings No report submitted. ʯ Members: Bob Breivogel (chair), Mitchel Auerbach, Sue Dimin, Dyanne Foster, Reuel Kurzet, Dean Land, Leslie Langan.

Outreach by Gary Ballou

2016 has been one of the busiest years for

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2017 Committees, continued from previous page outreach since I joined the committee in 2010. A quick look at the calendar shows volunteers at over a dozen events since last October, starting with the Portland Alpine Festival in November. Others include events at Patagonia, the Arc’teryx speaker series, PSU Earth Day, Sunday Parkways, National Get Outdoors Day, and the Mother’s Day climb on Mount St. Helens. Woods Middle School, the Base Camp Solstice event, and REEL Rock also gave us opportunities to get the word out about the Mazamas. Over the past year, we have shifted from an active committee structure to more of an active roster of on-call volunteers. With the rise of social media, we have learned how to get the call out for volunteers across a wider audience, enlisting the help of volunteers who may not be Outreach Committee members. The goal is to eliminate sometimes superfluous meetings and keep the enthusiasm for volunteering more focused and long-lasting. Special thanks to frequent volunteers Adam Hunter, Lindsey Mayo, Josh Mitchell, and Sanman Rokade. ʯ Members: Gary Ballou (chair), Pranava Alekal, Allison Legg, Mike Levis, Annie McCartney, Adonay Solleiro.

Portland Alpine Festival by Sarah Bradham

Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) had another successful year, growing to 30+ events across multiple venues throughout the Portland metro area. The festival received excellent feedback from members, nonmembers, and partners, and met all of its financial and programmatic goals. We saw increases almost across the board, from the number of opportunities offered to the number of people attending during the week. We incorporated feedback from the prior year, like lowering the ticket price point for The Summit by moving it to Revolution Hall and offering food options through food carts. Based on the reaction to the festival and the offerings this year, it seems apparent that Mazamas and community members are interested in learning from guides, participating in evening clinics, and hearing from athletes who are currently at the prime of their sport. The only downturn we saw this year was in the revenue from the silent auction at The Summit. We will be reviewing

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whether we want to continue with the silent auction, a fundraiser for the Mazama Mountain School, in 2018. It is an enormous amount of work to organize for volunteers and staff, and this year it did not have a good return on investment. This year, we fully separated Mazama Awards from PAF and are working to create a new event that will be held annually in the spring that celebrates Mazama volunteers and their achievements. ʯ Members: Sarah Bradham (lead), Jacob Raab (coordinator), Zane Coleman, Ben Grandy, Alicia Imbody, Kevin Sutton, Valerie Uskoski.

Programs by Lacy Turner

The Programs Committee presented 23 shows from October 2016 through April 2017. Two were canceled and three sparsely attended due to winter weather. A week after the second cancellation, 20-some attendees braved feet of slush for Mathew Brock’s wonderful show about the Curtis Brothers’ participation with the Mazamas in the late 1890s. (During Mathew’s presentation, Mazama staffers were in the basement dealing with flooding.) The winter weather affected our attendance this season: down about 100 from last season to 1,515 people, averaging 65 per show. Donations dropped by $500, to $957. Bryon Rendar’s presentation of “Cuba Amidst Ongoing Change” and our Mazama expedition to Patagonia were hugely popular, along with the Dolomites, the Karakoram, the Oregon Desert Trail, and “Wild Foods of the Pacific Northwest.” We used every available chair we could find for these programs, with attendees sitting on the floor and leaning against the ice wall. Three programs featured different parts of Africa, including a bicycle ride from the lowest point to the base of Kilimanjaro. Presenters bicycled from the bottom to the top of Alaska, and through villages in the French and Italian Alps. We also had extreme running with a spiritual bent, a ski traverse in the Canadian Rockies, hiking on Vancouver Island’s West Coast Trail, climbing multi-pitch rock climbs around the world, and climbing down into slot canyons in Utah. The ever-popular Camino was included again, and Oregon hiking guru Bill Sullivan closed out the season with “New Hikes in Southern Oregon.” Our biggest accomplishment was simply that our small committee once again

presented six months of wildly diverse Wednesday evening programs and attracted ever more diverse audiences: Mazamas of all ages, attendees from the MMC neighborhood, new audience members who drove across town for a program they saw on the website, and attendees who have social media contact with program presenters. Our 2017–2018 season begins October 11. Presenters include Mazamas, authors, artists, and tour guides—adventurers who climb, hike, paddle, run, cycle, and study nature. This season’s programs will take you from 8,000-meter peaks in Nepal to a “Magic Hour Tour of the Sunshine States,” and a plethora of points in between. ʯ Members: John Leary (chair), Nancy Bentley, Dyanne Foster, Pam Gilmore, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary, Lacy Turner.

Publications By Darrin Gunkel

The Publications Committee continues top-notch reporting on Mazama member activities and program work. In addition to producing the Annual and annual reports, the eight committee members put in unquantifiable yet rewarding hours writing, editing, and collecting and producing photography for the Bulletin. Their efforts paid off in a steady increase in the number of stories, consistency of writing, and range of topics. In addition to regular columns from staff and committees, from January 2016 through June 2017 101 writers contributed 186 feature articles. Feature story counts by category: Conservation/stewardship/ advocacy (26); climbing (24); people (23); hiking (22); organization/MMC (14); education (13); dogs and events (8); BCEP, book reviews, and history (6); fitness/ nutrition (5); ICS, PAF, Ski Mountaineering, and Nordic (4); gear and natural history (3); CISM, AYM, AR, FM 101, Expeditions, Canyoneering, and rescue (1). Page counts and the number of features have risen steadily, as have kudos from Mazamas and the greater community, as measured both in positive feedback and consistently solid online metrics. ʯ Members: Darrin Gunkel (chair), Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, Michael Vincerra.

Research by Caitlin Smigelski


The Research Committee received a total of 28 proposals (six standard grants, 21 graduate and undergraduate student grants, and one youth grant) for the 2017 grant cycle. The committee voted to recommend funding for ten applicants, and they were approved by the Executive Council. The total dollar amount awarded this year was just under $20,000. ▶ Dr. Roberto Anitori, Clark College, “Extreme Microbial Communities in the Glacier Ice Caves of Mount St. Helens” ▶ Robin Kodner, Ph.D., Western Washington University, “Biodiversity and Evolution of Snow Algae Communities in the Cascade Mountains” ▶ Marek Borowiec, Arizona State University, “Genomics of Alpine Ants in North America: The Origins and Future of Alpine Biodiversity in the Face of Climate Change” ▶ Michal Orczyk, Cascade Forest Conservancy, “Young Friends of the Forest, Environmental Science Program” ▶ John Erich Christian, University of Washington, “Glacier Velocity and Implications for Subglacial Hydrology on Mt. Baker” ▶ Meera Lee Sethi, University of Washington, “The Impact of Climate Change on Plant-Insect Interactions in Mt. Rainier’s Subalpine Meadows” ▶ Bennett Hardy, University of Wisconsin, Milwaukee, “Harnessing the Power of Genomics to Conserve Cascades Frogs in the Pacific Northwest” ▶ Allan Lerner, University of Oregon, “Developing a Sulfur Degassing Model for Mount St. Helens Volcano, WA” ▶ Logan Reed Wetherell, Central Washington University, “Quantifying Accumulative Changes in HumanCaused Sedimentation Rates, Central Oregon Coast Range” ▶ Adam Riffle, Central Washington University, “The Hydrological Significance of Active and Inactive Rock Glaciers in the Eastern Cascades, Washington” We would like to extend our thanks to Tom Bennett for his service as he leaves the committee after serving five years as chair. ʯ Members: Tom Bennett (chair), Steve Hinkle, Bob McGown, Joel Nigg, Trey Schutrumpf, Ralph Shuping, Caitlin Smigelski.

Risk Management

by Sandra Volk Accomplishments of the Risk Management Committee include a completed safety review for the Ski Mountaineering program and updated Critical Incident Response Guidelines. The committee reviewed 17 incident reports from October 2016 through September 2017. There is one outstanding incident that is in the process of review. All others were closed without action. Incident report breakdown: ▶ 16 climbing incident reports: Four from the same incident, loose rock with injury. Three by climbers dislodging loose rock with injury. One near-miss, snow bridge collapse. One classified as other related to judgment. Two slip and falls with injury. Two altitude sickness. One near-miss, rappel. One snow step collapse. One hit by a hiking pole. ▶ 1 trail tending incident report: Twisted ankle, slip, and fall. Loose rock remains our biggest source of injuries for climbers. Continued awareness of loose rock and persons around oneself continues to need to be stressed to all climbers. Slips and falls are the second major cause of injuries. One incident required evacuation by search and rescue (SAR). The SAR team that participated in the evacuation praised the Mazamas’ climb team for their teamwork and the assistance given to the SAR team. All team members were engaged and active during the course of the evacuation. The Mazamas maintains a good safety record based on the number of members outside climbing and hiking. Continued awareness of safety actions needs to be stressed. ʯ Members: Sandra Volk (chair), Carol Bryan, Katie Foehl, Whitney Lindahl, Joshua Lockerby, Sheri Smith.

Trail Trips by Bill Stein

The Trail Trips Committee changed our structure this year, shrinking our list to include only members and friends performing services for our committee. Among our committee members, Rex Breunsbach organized our hike schedule, Adonay Solleiro taught our hike leader training class, Meg Linza offered first aid skill checks, and Jim Selby arranged for hike leader appreciation. Among our committee friends, Tom Eggers helped us promote Meetup, Richard Getgen collected

data on our hikes and rambles, Anu Khaira built our Facebook presence, and Marilyn Zigler managed our Meetup site. Meetup has evolved into a significant tool for us, with 7,345 people who have joined the Trail Trips Meetup group. 54% of our Trail Trips and 100% of our Street Rambles were co-listed on Meetup this year, allowing us to make new friends for the Mazamas and no longer cancel due to a lack of participants. Tom Eggers prepared a Meetup guide for all our hike leaders. We also gave first aid training attention this year. Meg Linza, a registered nurse, steered us to require in-person skill checks for our hike leaders. Meg periodically offers a first aid for hike leaders skill check, after students have watched American Heart Association videos at home. Our hike leader training class has become institutionalized thanks to the efforts of Trail Trips committee member Adonay Solleiro. 100% of our new leaders and many of our longtime leaders have taken this class. It’s offered to folks leading hikes for other Mazama committees, and Adonay reports that about half of the students have been AYM hike leaders. We moved our Hike Leader Appreciation Night to January and enjoyed hundreds of images, pizza, and door prizes for every hike leader. Trail Trips Committee chair Bill Stein bragged that in fiscal year 2016 we’d offered hikes or rambles on 78 percent of the dates in the year. Next year, we’ll celebrate increasing that amazing statistic to 83 percent of the dates in fiscal year 2017. Our long-anticipated focus for the next year will be adapting the most active Mazama program to the new website. We’ll also be making changes to Round the Mountain, our volunteer-led hikes on the Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend. Finally, we plan to pilot a basic hiking education program. Our unanticipated focus for the next year will be finding new hikes to lead, since 32% of the Trail Trips scheduled in the last year were on trails that are closed as of September 2017. The closure of some of our favorite Columbia Gorge trails is giving us an opportunity to discover new hiking destinations. We also look forward to partnering with other area organizations on reopening the closed trails. ʯ Members: Bill Stein (chair), Rex Breunsbach, Meg Linza, Jim Selby, Sheri Alice Smith, Adonay Solleiro.

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2018 Committee reports Classics No report submitted.

Climbing No report submitted.

Conservation by Kate Evans

Adventurous Young Mazamas by Reena Clements

AYM is a group that creates an outdoor community amongst young professionals and anyone young at heart through activities such as hiking, backpacking, weekend trips, and climb nights. In 2017–18, we continued to offer the annual Winter Weekend at the Lodge (which included a first-ever ski trip), Memorial Day Weekend at Maryhill/ Goldendale, and Labor Day Weekend in the Rogue River/Crater Lake area. We have begun to offer numerous unique events such as full moon snowshoes, caving, fire lookout stays, Portland History Walks and other cultural in-town rambles, and several hiking and fruit picking combos. Ever wanted to know what a syncline is? No, we don’t mean the awesome Gorge winery. Of special note are our new geology-themed hikes led by Lauren Sankovitch, teaching participants great facts pertaining to the hike. We have also brought back our monthly Climb Night Program at Planet Granite led by Allie Richey, Scott Wasko, and Kaitlin Higgins to promote climbing, fitness, and community during the winter months. Sándor Lau has spearheaded several stewardship events including participation at the Mazama Lodge Work Party, where AYM made up the majority of the work crew. In the last year, AYM has also begun to

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offer Q (alpine) hikes. These are advanced hikes typically on peaks that are climbs in the winter, but snow-free with an established trail during the summer and early fall. No technical gear is required. Our participants have greatly enjoyed Mt. McLoughlin lead by Toby Creelan, the Matterhorn in the Wallowas led by Sándor Lau, and Mt. Bailey led by Sweeney Grabin. Q hikes are important to introduce people to the Mazamas as they provide a safe way to get climbing experience. They also provide encouragement, showing participants they can be successful climbers, including on glaciated peaks. In order to streamline leadership development, AYM has brought back the hike leader-specific First Aid Class originally piloted by Trail Trips Committee. This class includes both First Aid and CPR and is offered monthly at the MMC. Taught by Reena Clements, this class utilizes the American Heart Association curriculum and supplements it with scenarios and information aimed at promoting hike leader preparedness on the trail. We continue to maintain a strong core group of leaders. This year, we have welcomed David Grabin, Sweeney Grabin, Patricia Neighbor, Chad Rossmeisl, Lauren Sankovitch, Rachel Smith, and Ashley Wood as new AYM hike leaders. Additionally, we bid a fond farewell to Sándor Lau from our committee and welcomed Adonay Sollerio, Toby Creelan, and Silja Tobin. Reena Clements is our new chair as of May 2018. ʯ Members: Reena Clements (chair), Keith Dechant, Mike Kacmar, Sándor Lau.

The Conservation Committee’s mission is to actively advocate for the protection and management of natural areas to preserve, restore, and enhance healthy ecosystems; to educate our members so they can actively advocate for conservation issues, and; to guide the Mazamas to become carbon neutral. We awarded $20,000 in grants among our nine conservation partners to pursue environmental work: Bark, Cascade Forest Conservancy, Crag Law Center, Cooper Spur Wild and Free, Friends of Mount Hood, Greater Hells Canyon Preservation Council, Oregon Natural Desert Association, Oregon Wild, and Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility. We are working closely with these partners to increase engagement with the Mazamas and are sharing information about their work through monthly articles in the Bulletin and other events. In 2018, we will have feature articles on ONDA, Oregon Wild, Bark, and Friends of Mount Hood. Earlier this year, two committee members attended Bark’s Base Camp groundtruthing of the North Clackamas Timber Sale, and we will be encouraging other Mazamas to worth with Bark and our grantees. Our monthly articles will also cover the Eagle Creek Fire and Gorge recovery. We continue to work with leadership to advocate for conservation, especially of public lands such as Mt. Hood, the Owyhee, Cascade-Siskiyou, and Crater Lake. In February, the committee sponsored three films about saving Northwest rivers: the Eel, the Deschutes, and the Middle Fork of the John Day. This fundraiser for Pacific Rivers also celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. In May, Michael McCloskey came to share from his new book A Glimpse into History: What Prominent People Have Said About Nature in Oregon and the Need to Conserve It. Our founder William Gladstone Steel was prominently featured.


We were pleased to honor former Conservation Committee member Jeff Hawkins for the Montague Award for his tireless, multi-year, and finally successful effort to install solar panels at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We also nominated Dr. Andrew Fountain of Portland State University for honorary membership for his outstanding work on shrinking glaciers and climate change. ʯ Members: Kate Evans (chair), Candace Bonner, Barry Buchanan, Howard Buck, John Rettig, Barbara Wilson, Christine Yankel, Joan Zuber.

Critical Incident Stress Management No report submitted.

Education by Matt Blecharz

The Education Committee is made up of a few dedicated roles and a member from each of our education programs. We’ve continued our collaborative history by coming together in 2017–18 to tackle determining six primary positions throughout all education programming. With each program’s distinct differences, our most challenging hurdle was maintaining program uniqueness. For our Program Coordinator, the first primary position, we defined the leader of the team and a master delegator, an individual who can both drive a program forward and assist the team in individual success. The Assistant Program Coordinator is next in line to lead and handles facilities and potential escalations throughout the program’s duration. As another primary position, Student Coordinators handle a significant number of tasks and may require more than one person to fill the role. They handle student acceptance, onboarding, and week-to-week student communications, questions, and concerns. Student Coordinators are the first and last people every student engages with on an ongoing basis. Equally, Volunteer Coordinators may also require more than one person to fulfill the role. They handle potential acceptance testing, team building, skill building, and following through on weekto-week volunteer communications. Both Student and Volunteer Coordinators are key owners in Mazama risk and accident reporting and, if a near-miss or accident were to occur, ensuring all the proper

communications are completed. No program succeeds without a Curriculum Coordinator, who is critical in ensuring the curriculum is properly maintained, up to date, accurate, and delivered in a consistent manner in weekly lectures and out in the field. Curriculum Coordinators work directly with Volunteer Coordinators but are independent in their role, which ensures solid focus. Similar to how a program cannot succeed without a curriculum, it may not be measured for success without a Testing/Measurements Coordinator, the sixth primary position. This role manages both students’ existing skills prior to being accepted into a program and, more critically, the successful learning of skills and lessons taught in a program’s final exam (written and/or demonstrated). As we test and learn how the positions work throughout Mazama education programming in the coming year, we will continue to adjust and assess, ensuring we have the best descriptions and Roles & Responsibilities laid out. Strength and consistency in Mazama leadership continues to drive us all forward, and each education program’s strong leadership team continue to showcase this strength. In addition to the six primary positions, I would be remiss not to highlight the strong work Scope & Sequence has begun undertaking throughout 2018, as well as the great collaboration between the Education and Climb Committees to begin updating Scope & Sequence for the next three years. Scope & Sequence captures all the skills, soft and hard, which are critical to each program and translate over to successful climb leadership. A great thank you to the Education Committee and the Mazamas for such a wonderful 2018 year. ʯ Members: Matt Blecharz (chair), Wim Aarts, John Barkhausen, Dana Beck, Andrew Bodien, Doug Couch, Anna Lio, Josh Lockerby, Daniel Mick, Long Ong, Rainer Rothbacher, Suresh Singh, Thomas Ulrich, Brad Unruh.

▶ Advanced Rock by Cameron Brown

The Advanced Rock course continues to provide high-quality instruction and training that enables graduates to proficiently lead traditional single-pitch, multi-pitch, and alpine climbs. The course is run by dedicated volunteers and focuses on gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, climbing technique, high-angle rescue, trip planning, and mental and

physical training. This past year, approximately 50 volunteers helped with the class, which consisted of lectures with supervised hands-on skills practice and many field sessions held at various crags in Oregon and Washington. The 2018 Advanced Rock class consisted of 21 students who graduated, of which almost 25% were female. We would love to have more women apply for AR. ʯ Members: Cameron Brown (chair), Tom Baughman, George Cummings, Joe Eberhardt, Kim Edger, Stephen Hirai, Wendy Leone, John Meckel, Suresh Singh, Francisco Villa.

▶ Advanced Snow & Ice No report submitted.

▶ Basic Climbing Education Program No report submitted.

▶ Canyoneering by Wim Arts

The third consecutive year of a new class for the Mazamas saw many more participants go out on their own after the class. We also saw previous participants coming back to volunteer. ʯ Members: Wim Aarts (chair), Jason Breaker, Keith Campbell, Kevin Clark, Nancy Hopkins, Kendra Kallevig, Brad Noren, Lisa Ripps, Kaitlin Rupert, Tom Ulrich.

▶ First Aid by Long Ong

The Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) course provides a framework for wilderness medicine management, a basic understanding of human anatomy and physiology, recognition of the signs and symptoms of various commonly encountered medical conditions, and strategies for decision making and risk management in the field. Our focus is on inculcating prevention approaches and on identifying the right questions rather than on providing the right “answers.” We focus on treatment principles that are practical, useful, and applicable in varied backcountry settings. Students develop a good grounding in how to prepare for and carry out some basic treatment options using critical thinking. We wish to thank our dedicated

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2018 Committees, continued from previous page volunteers, instructors, and skill-checkers. The demand for MFA exceeded the ability of this committee to commit to more than two full MFA courses plus one recertification course. We again look to training more committee members in advanced wilderness training so as to elevate some of these members to become instructors. That said, we plan to send more of our instructors to be American Heart Association-certified CPR/AED/ Basic Life Support instructors so as to provide more offerings for our members. We constantly look forward to increasing our cadre of volunteer instructors. This year, we had a strong showing of support for the Fall 2017 and Winter 2018 MFA classes, with a total of 80 members graduated in addition to 20 members who received recertification. We encourage our graduates to continue their journey of learning, and, like any skill, to continue to practice. Head out with like-minded friends who have similar risk acceptance levels and whom you can trust and communicate with in the backcountry. We make constant curriculum updates and every effort is made to ensure our curriculum is reflective of industry-wide standards. We continue to work with the BCEP Committee to offer a lecture on basic wilderness first aid principles. One of the MFA Committee’s future goals is to offer more advanced wilderness medicine training to Mazama members, in addition to MFA. Lastly, I would like to extend a sincere thank you to our committee members who have volunteered tirelessly and unconditionally to ensure our program runs smoothly. ʯ Members: Long Ong (chair), Lisa Burton, Justin Colquhoun, Nicole Gaines, Shane Garling, Morgan Harvey, Margie Hendryx, Luke Levin, Mike Levis, Luke Loffler, Linda Man, Andy Nuttbrock, Trey Schutrumpf, Daniel Solchanyk, Christine Troy.

Intermediate Climbing School No report submitted.

▶ Nordic No report submitted.

▶ Ski Mountaineering by Wei Chiang

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The Ski Mountaineering Committee strives to provide a foundation for safe backcountry snow travel. Coming off the previous 2016–17 season, where we saw an unusually high 466-inch annual snowfall at Mt. Hood Meadows, the 2017–18 season came back down to Earth with 333 inches for its annual snowfall. We had a successful year with 24 students who completed the course. We have also increased our pool of ski tour leaders and maintain a manageable yearly workload to retain a steady flow of returning volunteers. An added focus was placed on establishing a better relationship with and recognition of our Ski Mountaineering volunteers to help establish a friendly, supportive, and approachable community in which to participate. Our program consists of weekly lectures and field sessions that include four ski tours to various locals within Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, Mount St. Helens, Crystal Mountain, Alpental, and Central Oregon. Taught by many longtime Mazama instructors, it is a privilege that we continue to have future backcountry snow riders be taught by some of the best knowledge base in the area. With alpine touring ski gear taking over the market and the decline of telemark, we’ve noticed a growing trend in splitboarding. Splitboards allow snowboarders to split their snowboards to skin up the snow. For Basics Day, we had a splitboard-focused group, as over 25 percent of the students were on splitboards. As a result, we are onboarding more splitboard tour leaders. With four women and 21 men enrolled in the class, we were able to successfully provide a women’s tour group and bring awareness and growth for more women to participate in the sport. Statistically, having a woman in a tour group increases the safety probability when determining human factors in avalanche safety. We capped off the end of the class season with a ski tour leader clinic with Pro Guiding Services in Alpental, WA. Twelve Mazama Ski Mountaineering tour leaders and assistants got to experience two days of tour planning, advanced skinning techniques, avalanche assessment, and navigation taught by professional guides. This is part of our continuous effort to develop more tour leaders and increase our capacity to meet demand.

ʯ Members: Wei Chiang (chair), Tracy Andrews, Samson Garner, Ali Gray, Paul Grugan, Kevin Hardy, Chris Jensen, Alex Macdonald, Mike Myers, Aldis Raisters, Rainer Rothbacher, Layne Russell, Eric Rutz, Daniel Smith, James Wende.

Expedition No report submitted.

Families by Rich Hunter

Families Mountaineering 101 (FM 101) completed its fourth annual class, with over 100 students graduating. Brian Wetzel and Kirstin Labudda coordinated and served as lead instructors for a very successful year. Highlights included the rappelling session at Horsethief Butte and a highly spirited skills competition and trivia night at the Mazama Lodge during the snow climbing weekend in January. We also provided our 3rd season of intermediate-level rock skills through the Top Rope/Sport Leader class. Students learn self-rescue, sport leading, and site management for group climbing. This year’s Sport Leader class featured six teens, who had graduated FM 101 in previous years. The youth performance in the class showed strong responsibility and capability from folks who have sought new skills and experience toward leadership opportunities since their FM 101 training. We also wish to recognize Jake Norton, who completed the Advanced Rock course in 2018 as an 18-year-old, having gotten his start with climbing through FM 101 in 2014. Clearly, the Families Committee programs are making progress toward developing leaders of the future through family and youth-oriented education. A major highlight of the year was our FM 101 reunion BBQ at Rooster Rock State Park, in which 20+ former students completed their first multi-pitch climb thanks to leaders Craig Martin, Henry Kofron, and Jason Linse. The BBQ was well attended and we are planning on celebrating five years of FM 101 in style this June. Community gatherings, camping, and climbing events occurred throughout the year, including a monthly skill builder at the MMC (Families Rock Skills), leadership training from AMGA guide Jason Martin for committee volunteers, and Smith Rock outings in October and April. The committee has an ambitious calendar planned for next year, adding


snow camping, weekend group camping at climbing destinations, and additional youth intermediate pilot programs. ʯ Members: Rich Hunter (chair), Mike Doll, Henry Kofron, Jason Linse, Craig Martin, Jake Norton, Elizabeth Skorohodov, Molly Vogt.

Lodge No report submitted.

Nominating No report submitted.

Outings by Bob Breivogel

Outings held: ▶ Ice Climbing in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, December 14–17, 2017. Rebecca Madore (leader), Ania Wiktorowicz (assistant). 6 participants. ▶ Ice Climbing in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, January 12–15, 2018. Rebecca Madore (leader), Ania Wiktorowicz (assistant). 6 participants. ▶ Tucson, February 17–24, 2018. Tony Spiering (leader), Rex Breunsbach (assistant). 16 participants. ▶ Death Valley Hiking, March 11–17, 2018. Bob Breivogel (leader), Rex Breunsbach (assistant). 14 participants. ▶ Hawaii Volcanos, March 24–31, 2018. Jay Feldman (leader), Rex Breunsbach (assistant). 11 participants. ▶ Hells Canyon Backpack, April 21–27 2018. Rex Breunsbach (leader), Alice Brocoum (assistant). 8 participants. ▶ Great Smoky Mountains National Park, May 12–20, 2018. Rex Breunsbach (leader), Alice Brocoum (assistant). 16 participants. ▶ Vancouver Island West Coast Trail, June 12–20, 2018. Bill Stein (leader), Bob Breivogel, Rex Breunsbach, Meg Linza (assistants). 16 participants. ▶ Hiking Glacier National Park, July 22–28, 2018. Richard Getgen (leader), Bob Smith (assistant). 29 participants. ▶ Hiking in the North Cascades, August 12–19, 2018. Larry Solomon (leader), Sherry Bourdin (assistant). 12 participants. ▶ Trinity Alps High Route, September 8–14, 2018. Garry Bishop (leader), John Meckel (assistant). 8 participants. ʯ Members: Bob Breivogel (chair), Mitch Auerbach, Dyanne Foster, Reuel Kruzet, Dean Land, Lesley Langan, Leigh Schwartz.

Outreach

Research

Metabarcoding Techniques by Katherine Arstingstall of Oregon State University; $2,000. ▶ Carbon Dioxide and Mercury Dynamics in East Lake, Newberry Volcano, Oregon by Molly Wagner of Wesleyan University; $1,000. ▶ Carbon Carrying Capacity in the Pacific Northwest: Forest Resilience to Wildfire and Climate Change by Kristina Bartowitz of the University of Idaho; $1,000. ʯ Members: Caitlin Smigelski (chair), Tom Bennett, Tom Bode, Frank Granshaw, Steve Hinkle, Robert McGown, Joel Nigg, Trey Schutrumpf, Ralph Shuping.

by Caitlin Smigelski

Risk Management

No report submitted.

Portland Alpine Festival No report submitted.

Programs No report submitted.

Publications No report submitted.

This year, the Research Committee received 21 proposals: eight standard grant applications ( for faculty and principal investigators) and 13 graduate/ undergraduate applications. From this pool of applicants, we funded eight grants for a total of $17,400. The selected proposals focus on a diversity of important topics including glaciers, climate change, volcanoes, wildfires, and alpine environments. Below are the grant recipients.

Standard (maximum grant $3,500): ▶ Monitoring Mountain Goat Translocation Efforts in the Washington Cascades by David Wallin of Western Washington University; $3,500. ▶ Glacier Ice Worms: Broadening Understanding of Extremophile Evolution, Awareness, and Conservation in Glaciers of the Pacific Northwest by Scott Hotaling of Washington State University; $3,500. ▶ Aerial Rephotography of Colorado Glaciers by Andrew Fountain of Portland State University; $3,300.

Graduate/Undergraduate (maximum grant $2,000):

No report submitted.

Trail Trips by Bill Stein

At the Trail Trips Committee’s most recent meeting, we voted to sync our hike leader requirements with AYM. We now require Trail Trips leaders to be Mazama members and to attain CPR certification within two years. For now, these policy changes are waived for Street Ramble leaders. For the last year, we have offered hike leader training classes monthly. Toward the end of this year, we also began offering monthly First Aid and CPR skill checks to hike leaders. As of September 24, 61 percent of Trail Trips leaders have built a profile on the new website. These hike leaders now have “schedule proposer” status. We aim to have 100 percent of hike leaders using the new website before our old hike scheduling system goes away in mid-October. Finally, we were pleased to welcome ten new leaders to our ranks. ʯ Members: Bill Stein (chair), Rex Breunsbach, Dyanne Foster, Flora Huber, Brett Nair, Jim Selby.

▶ Testing the Viability of Using StructureFrom-Motion Photogrammetric Surveys to Track Glacier Mass Balance and Meltwater Discharge on the Easton Glacier, Mt. Baker, WA by Elizabeth Kimberly of Western Washington University; $2,000. ▶ The Impact of Mycorrhizal Fungi on Subalpine Meadow Encroachment by Subalpine Fir by Stuart Graham of the University of Washington; $1,100. ▶ Enhancing Bumble Bee Habitat in the Pacific Northwest Using DNA

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2017 Year in Review Mazama volunteers are dedicated, passionate, hard-working individuals who love the mountains, trails, and the Mazamas. Organized into different groups and teams, our volunteers are out in the field providing quality instruction, creating vibrant groups of newfound friends on the trails, running festivals and “pop-up shops,” and so much more. Below is a brief recap of some of the volunteer accomplishments from the past year.

Activity Committees & Teams Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) AYM hosted approximately 100 events over the last year, including hikes, snowshoes, Nordic skiing, service projects, and social events, as well as overnight trips to the coast, various lookout towers, the Mazama Lodge, tepees in Eastern Oregon, and the Wallowas. The events reached over 1,000 participants.

Classics The Mazama Classics host activities for individuals who have been members for 25 years or more—900+ individuals! This year, they’ve offered city walks and country hikes, nature tours, lectures, and many social events.

Climbing This year, the Climbing Committee fielded 170 scheduled climbs led by over 75 volunteer climb leaders. Climb leaders are tied to the heart of the Mazama mission—summitting mountains—and take our community (1,500 people last year) up mountains across the northwest, mentoring many new leaders along the way.

Families The Families Committee is at the forefront of creating the next generation of Mazama members and leaders in our organization in a safe, familyfriendly atmosphere. They are best known for their Family Mountaineering 101 course, but they also host activities like year-round family climb nights and are diligently working to support teens in our community through skills and leadership opportunities.

Outings This year, the Outings Committee sponsored six outings. From the heights of the Trinity Alps to the depths of Hells Canyon, Mazama outings get people out on long-format trips invoking a sense of wonder and adventure for everyone that participates.

Trail Trips Trail Trips offered 900+ hiking and rambling opportunities last year, with more than 8,000 miles of trails hiked. Rain or shine, from 4–60 participants, these folks are steadfast in their commitment to getting people outside. In 2017, there was a Trail Trips offering on 83 percent of the days of the year, compared to 78 percent in 2016.

106 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Education Committees & Teams Education Coordinating scheduling and communication for more than 20 courses per year is a great undertaking. The Education Committee diligently works to make Mazama courses some of the best in the field.

Advanced Rock (AR) The AR Committee and instructors gave over 1,000 hours to teaching advanced rock skills to local climbers, and graduated 24 new trad climbers this year.

Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) This year, 216 students were accepted into the program across 18 teams, led by 24 climb leaders. BCEP involved more than 20,000 hours of volunteer support from committee members, climb leaders, and assistants. BCEP is, for many, their first introduction to climbing mountains, and we cannot thank our BCEP teams enough for their dedication to the Mazama mission.

Canyoneering One of the newest Mazama education programs is Canyoneering, which reverses the typical activity model of the Mazamas as its primary goal is to train people to safely descend canyons as opposed to ascend mountains. This dedicated team is embarking on year three of this exciting new program, and serves approximately 20 people each year.

First Aid First Aid is a component of every activity and course at the Mazamas. This team organizes our Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) course, MFA recertification course, and CPR offerings. These courses trained approximately 150

people in 2017, with 30 volunteers donating 1,000 hours. These important trainings help keep us all safe should anything go wrong in the field.

Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) Coordinating a program that takes place over a period of 9 months is no small feat! Over 100 ICS volunteers gave over 10,000 hours at field sessions this year, helping to train our next generation of climb assistants and leaders. Approximately 40 ICS students will graduate from the program in May.

Nordic School In over 1,000 volunteer hours this season, the Nordic program’s 22 Professional Ski Instructor Association instructors taught over 80 new and returning students the joy of cross-country skiing in a safe, encouraging, and empowering format.

Ski Mountaineering Each year, our ever Ski Mountaineering program grows ever more popular as more and more people realize the merits of descending mountains on skis instead of by foot. This team is highly skilled in backcountry skiing and avalanche safety, and trained approximately 30 new ski mountaineers last year with 50+ volunteers donating more than 700 hours. This year, they also introduced a women’s tour group for the first time.

Skill Builder Classes This year’s various Skill Builder courses taught invaluable skills that required significant focus to achieve familiarity. Some of them include Basic Rock, Crevasse Rescue, and Wilderness Navigation.


Special Events

Resource Teams

Portland Alpine Festival

Conservation

Lodge

This year, 68 hard-working Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) volunteers welcomed over 1,600 participants to 19 clinics, five seminars, and eight evening events. It truly takes a village to organize a six-day festival with 34 different events, work with 14 athletes, and secure awesome gear for prizes. This year, PAF had 1,638 attendees, making it our biggest festival yet. Thank you to the Portland Alpine Fest team for your dedication to creating a top-notch festival for the Portland community.

The Conservation Committee advocates with their pens and with their hands to protect the outdoor environments we all know and love. Their $22,500 in grants this year went to local organizations working to protect our lands.

The Mazama Lodge is our home on Mt. Hood, and the Lodge team works hard year-round to keep the Lodge going, including hauling garbage, managing twice-yearly Lodge maintenance days, and coordinating fun activities for community members.

Programs The Programs Committee dedicated nearly 450 hours to welcome over 1,500 community members to the MMC to learn about outdoor adventure at home and abroad last year. Evening programs are a weekly event for many members and are an important introduction for many to the Mazamas.

Round the Mountain This team manages the details of transporting, leading, and feeding over 60 participants during a three-day adventure that has become one of our most popular activities of the year.

Used Equipment Sale The Used Equipment Sale just closed one of its biggest sales ever with more than $20,000 in sales, netting more than $6,000 for the Mazamas in this oneday extravaganza. It takes a large team of volunteers to pull off this annual “pop-up shop” and we cannot thank you enough for your effort!

Critical Incident Stress Management This unique team looks out for the mental health of our members and the community who are involved in accidents or nearmisses.

Expedition Expedition grants help climbing teams reach for their dreams by providing economic support to fund national and international expeditions. The Expedition grants support this year was $16,500.

Outreach Getting the word out to the community about the Mazamas takes a team of outgoing, informed, and engaged individuals. We appreciate your dedication to sharing our mission and bringing more people inspired by the outdoors into the fold.

Publications Mazamas have many stories to tell, and the Publications team helps get those thoughts down on paper. This past year, the committee produced 12 monthly Bulletins and sourced over 80 articles from members. Besides their writing talents, the team ensures proper editing all while having spirited debates about Oxford commas, en and em dashes, and the merits of Chicago vs. AP style.

Facilities It’s no easy task to maintain the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), and it is often a thankless job that requires grit, specialized talent, and an ability to deal with creepy crawlies (there were a lot of centipedes in the MMC last year). This year, we learned that you can’t allow shrubs to hide your unsightly air conditioning units as it will seriously impact their performance—nothing like learning the hard way!

Nominating The Nominating Committee helps find qualified candidates for the Mazama Executive Council and serves as an important link between leadership transitions to ensure the Mazamas keep a strong leadership team.

Governing Documents It takes a special group of people to break out the bubbly over bylaws revision. But this group willingly steps up to keep our policies and procedures updated and in line with current best practices.

Office Volunteers Our office volunteers are often the voice you hear on the other end of the line when you call the Mazamas, or the person who responds to your emails. They help manage the day-to-day customer service and administrative tasks that keep us a vital resource for the community.

Library and Historical Collections This past year, Library volunteers have donated over 500 hours of their time helping to shelve books, catalog archive collections, and process material object donations. Remember, it’s yours to use!

Research The Research Committee awarded $12,000 to researchers that are gathering knowledge to help us protect our changing alpine environment.

Risk Management Our Risk Management folks work mostly behind the scenes compiling data on nearmisses and actual accidents in the field, as well as monitoring the safety of our current programs. Their important work allows us to discern trends in accidents and modify training practices where appropriate.

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2018 Year in Review Mazama volunteers are dedicated, passionate, hard-working individuals who love the mountains, trails, and the Mazamas. Organized into different groups and teams, our volunteers are out in the field providing quality instruction, creating vibrant groups of newfound friends on the trails, running festivals and “pop-up shops,” and so much more. Below is a brief recap of some of the volunteer accomplishments from the past year.

Activity Committees & Teams Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) AYM hosted approximately 100 events over the last year, including hikes, snowshoes, Nordic skiing, service projects, and social events, as well as overnight trips to the coast, various lookout towers, the Mazama Lodge, tepees in Eastern Oregon, and the Wallowas. The events reached over 1,000 participants.

Classics The Mazama Classics host activities for individuals who have been members for 25 years or more. This year, they’ve offered walking adventures in the city and across the northwest corner of Oregon, as well as nature tours, lectures, and social events.

Climbing Climb Leaders are tied to the heart of the Mazama mission—summitting mountains. Our cadre of approximately 185 climb leaders led almost 1,300 climbers up mountains across the northwest, many taking the time and making the effort to mentor new leaders along the way.

Families The Families Committee is at the forefront of creating the next generation of Mazama members and leaders in our organization in a safe, family-friendly atmosphere. They are best known for their Family Mountaineering 101 course, but they also host activities like yearround family climb nights and are diligently working to support teens in our community through skills and leadership opportunities.

Outings From the Great Smoky Mountains of the eastern U.S. to the West Coast Trail of Vancouver Island, from Hyalite Canyon to Death Valley, 2018’s Mazama Outings got 144 people out on long-format trips, invoking a sense of wonder and adventure to everyone that participated.

Trail Trips Rain or shine, the Trail Trips folks get people outside! They tackle remote trails, long extravaganzas, short urban trips, and just about everything in between. Between the Trail Trips and Rambles programs, these teams offer opportunities on approximately 75 percent of the days of the year.

108 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Education Committees & Teams Education Coordinating scheduling, communication, and curriculum for more than 20 courses per year is a great undertaking. The Education Committee diligently works to make Mazama courses some of the best in the field and helps oversee our many education subcommittees.

Advanced Rock (AR) The AR Committee and instructors gave over 1,000 hours to teaching advanced rock skills to local climbers, and are in the process of working with 24 new trad leaders this year.

Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) This year, 204 students were accepted into the program across 17 teams, led by 25 climb leaders. BCEP involved more than 20,000 hours of volunteer support from committee members, climb leaders, and assistants.

Canyoneering Now in its fourth year, this dedicated team is hitting its stride as it readies itself to serve another 24 people each year.

First Aid First Aid is a component of every activity and course at the Mazamas. This team organizes our Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) course, MFA recertification course, and CPR offerings. These courses trained more than 200 people this year, with 35 volunteers donating more than 1,000 hours of time.

Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) Coordinating a program that takes place over a period of 9 months is no small feat! Over 100 ICS volunteers gave over 10,000 hours at field sessions this year, helping to train our next generation of climb assistants and leaders. This year the program graduated 37 students.

Nordic School This year, we were hampered with a few challenges related to the weather, but our intrepid Nordic team still trained more than 60 students in the Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced Nordic courses. The Nordic program’s Professional Ski Instructor Association instructors teach cross-country skiing in a safe, encouraging, and empowering format.

Ski Mountaineering The biggest challenge for the Ski Mountaineering team is trying to serve the many people who want to take this class! This team is highly skilled in backcountry skiing and avalanche safety, and trained 30 new ski mountaineers last year with more than 30 volunteers donating more than 700 hours.

Skill Builder Classes This year’s various Skill Builder courses taught invaluable skills that required significant focus to achieve familiarity. Some of them include Basic Rock, Crevasse Rescue, and Wilderness Navigation.


Special Events

Resource Teams

Portland Alpine Festival

Conservation

Now in its sixth year, Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) has come into its own! For PAF18 we had 35 events at eight different locations during its seven-day run. There were 80+ volunteers who pitched in to make this festival a success. PAF is the biggest event the Mazamas offer and it couldn’t be done without so many wonderful volunteers!

The Conservation Committee sustains one of the longest-standing Mazama traditions: stewardship and advocacy of the places we love to climb, hike, and explore. This group of dedicated outdoorspeople is in the know about the most pressing opportunities and threats facing our mountain home, and they help direct critical resources to those fighting to preserve these places for future generations through grassroots advocacy, education, and outreach.

Programs The Programs Committee dedicated nearly 450 hours to welcome over 1,500 community members to the MMC to learn about outdoor adventure at home and abroad last year. Evening programs are a weekly event for many members and are an important introduction for many to the Mazamas.

Round the Mountain This team manages the details of transporting, leading, and feeding over 60 participants during a three-day adventure that has become one of our most popular activities of the year. It’s a coordination challenge managing multiple vans, drivers, hike leaders, and hiking groups, and this team does it in style.

Used Equipment Sale The Used Equipment Sale (UES) had another incredibly successful year with more than $21,000 in sales, netting $6,500 for the Mazamas in this one-day extravaganza. The UES volunteer team is a well-oiled machine and creates a magical one-day pop-up shop each year.

Critical Incident Stress Management This unique team looks out for the mental health of our members and the community who are involved in accidents or nearmisses. This is one of those teams we hope never gets pressed into service, but we are so thankful they are ready to go when needed.

Expedition Expedition grants help climbing teams reach for their dreams by providing economic support to fund national and international expeditions. The Bob Wilson Grant, in the amount of $15,000, was awarded to Katie Mills’ expedition to Alaska.

Outreach Getting the word out to the community about the Mazamas takes a team of outgoing, informed, and engaged individuals. We appreciate your dedication to sharing our mission and bringing more people into the fold who are inspired by the outdoors.

Publications This team loves to write and edit and gets enthused about helping you share your tales of adventure in the mountains. If you ever want to know what type of dashes to use in your writing, or you want to debate whether one or two spaces after a period is proper usage, this is your go-to group.

Facilities It takes a lot to keep the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) running, and our Facilities folks make sure things operate as smoothly as possible. This year alone there has been “rain” in the boiler

room, an invasion of ants and centipedes, overactive toilet tanks, and more. In addition to maintenance, there’s also a major focus on recycling to help ensure we apply our conservation ethics to our own building.

Lodge The Mazama Lodge is our home on Mt. Hood, and the Lodge team works hard year-round to keep the Lodge going, including hauling garbage, managing twice-yearly Lodge maintenance days, and coordinating fun activities for community members.

Nominating This team serves as an important link between leadership transitions at the Mazamas and works to ensure we have a strong team leading our organization.

Governing Documents This group tackles resource documents for the Mazamas and helps ensure we keep our policies and procedures updated. The work this team does is in the background but is critical to the ongoing integrity of the Mazamas as well as keeping our operations running smoothly.

Library and Historical Collections This past year, Library volunteers have donated over 600 hours of their time helping to shelve books, catalog collections, and process donations. In addition, we completed the first comprehensive inventory of the circulating collection in more than a decade. Remember, it’s yours to use!

Research In line with one of the founding Mazama principles, the Research Committee awarded $12,000 in 2018 to researchers that are gathering knowledge to help us protect our changing alpine environment.

Risk Management Our Risk Management team works to compile data on accidents and near-misses in the field and helps us monitor the safety of our programs. This important work allows us to discern trends in accidents and modify training practices where appropriate.

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110 2017/2018 Mazama Annual


Climbs & hikes

Takkakaw Falls. Photo: Megan Miller

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 111


112 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

1/14 5/29 6/2 1/5 1/7 1/26 2/14 3/20 4/1 4/11 4/22 4/23 4/29 4/29 5/1 5/3 5/3 5/6 5/7 5/7 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/10 5/10 5/18 5/19 5/20 5/21 5/22 5/22 5/24 5/26 5/26 5/28 5/28 5/28 5/31 5/31 6/3 6/3 6/4 6/4 6/5 6/6 6/7 6/10 6/10

Date

Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Lane Peak, The Zipper Mt. Hood, Devil’s Kitchen Headwall Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Reid Glacier Headwall Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Ladd Glacier Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Old Chute Lane Peak, The Zipper Mt. Ellinor, Summer Route Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Castle Peak, Standard Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows Tatoosh Traverse, Traverse Lane Peak, The Zipper

Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Rico Micallef/Chaitanya Sathe Lynn Pedersen/Del Profitt Gary Bishop/Josh Gesler Rico Micallef Eric Brainich Eric Brainich Rico Micallef/Shane Harlson Rico Micallef/Michael Austin Eric Brainich/Wim Aarts Rico Micallef Steve Warner George Shay Kirk Newgard/Scott Osbron Shane Harlson/Larry Beck Daniel Mick/Shirley Welch Tim Scott/Erin Devlin Bob Breivogel/Joe Powell Amy Graham/Ryan Schademan Jason Breaker/Eric Brainich Glenn Widener/Rob Olsztyn Steve Warner/John Andrews Larry Beck/Ralph Daub Donna Vandall/Karen Graves Bruce Yatvin/Kevin Nelson Rico Micallef/Stacey Reding Bruce Yatvin/Elizabeth Copeland Gary Bishop/Tyler Bax Lisa Ripps/Brian Martin Andrew Bodien/Bill Stein Chris Kruell/Kyle Heddy Gary Ballou/John Meckel Tim Scott/Tracie Weitzman Larry Beck/Marc Milobinski Walter Keutel/Ania Wiktorowicz Rico Micallef/Michael Austin Shane Harlson/Scott Osbron Thomas Miller/Kent Kimball Rico Micallef/Stephen Zadrozny Tim Scott/Nicole Gaines Alexander Fox/Andrew Leaf Gary Ballou/Laura Guderyahn Alexander Fox/Andrew Leaf George Shay/Eric Dattoli Bob Breivogel/Mark Duin Paul Underwood/Kim Osgood Joe Whittington/Darrin Gunkel Jon Major/Eben Travis Alexander Fox/Guy Wettstein

Leader/Assistant

5/5 10/10 8/8 0/0 6/0 4/0 6/5 7/5 4/0 5/0 11/0 5/0 7/6 12/10 11/0 0/0 6/5 8/6 11/0 7/0 9/9 10/10 6/6 9/0 12/10 0/0 5/0 0/0 0/0 10/0 6/6 0/0 6/5 9/0 8/8 10/0 11/11 9/7 11/9 9/9 5/5 0/0 0/0 9/9 5/0 5/5 4/4 0/0 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/13 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/16 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/22 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/27 6/28 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/11 7/14

Date

Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver South Brothers, South Gully Mt. Adams, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Middle Sister, North Ridge Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute South Sister, Devils Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse Mt. Washington (Olympics), Big Creek South Sister, Devils Lake Middle Sister, North Ridge Lightning Peak, Copper Creek Mt. Clark, Royal Basin Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Middle Sister, North Ridge South Sister, Devils Lake Three Way Peak, East Ridge Barrier Peak, Owyhigh Lakes Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Jefferson, East Face Unicorn and Boundary, Snow Lake Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Eldorado Peak, East Ridge Vesper Peak, Ragged Edge Mt. Adams, South Side Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier

Mountain, Route

2017 Official Mazama Climbs Start/Finish

Rico Micallef/Gregory Simons Jon Major/John Rettig Bruce Yatvin/Kaitlin Rupert Marty Scott/Larry Buzan Daniel Mick/Donna Vandall Shirley Welch/Larry Buzan Daniel Mick/Donna Vandall Paul Underwood/Scott Stevenson Gary Bishop/John Sterbis Paul Underwood/Chad Rossmeissl Chris Kruell/Christine Yankel Walter Keutel/Howie Davis Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Elizabeth Copeland/Bill Stein Chris Kruell/Merissa Moeller Walter Keutel/Jack Kuo Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Amy Brose/Shane Harlson Rayce Boucher/Rob Neyer Kevin Clark/Justin Elson Jon Major/Kate Evans Robin Wilcox/Melissa Guarin Bruce Yatvin/Kirk Newgard Rico Micallef/Chaitanya Sathe Larry Beck/Karen Graves Bill McLoughlin/John Sterbis Jill Kellogg/Brett Nair Doug Wilson/Duncan Hart Doug Wilson/Duncan Hart Andrew Bodien/Chris Rears Rico Micallef/Shane Harlson Lynn Pedersen/Del Profitt John Godino/Andrea Ogston Terry Brenneman/Patrick Thorpe John Godino/Ryan Johnson Bob Breivogel/Eric Dattoli Scott Osbron/Michael Levis Marc Milobinski/Shane Harlson Walter Keutel/Joe Crook Jill Kellogg/Joe Powell Joseph Lockerby/Elizabeth Pedersen Gary Ballou/Lynn Pedersen Tim Scott/Tracie Weitzman Matthew Sundling/Patrick Thorpe George Shay/Steve Warner Tim Scott/Tracie Weitzman Bruce Yatvin/Kirk Newgard Gary Bishop/John Sterbis

Leader/Assistant

0/0 0/0 0/0 8/0 6/6 8/8 6/6 9/9 8/0 0/0 8/8 10/10 6/6 8/8 10/0 10/0 0/0 8/6 6/6 7/7 6/0 8/8 8/8 10/7 12/12 11/10 8/8 4/4 4/4 6/6 12/11 8/8 10/10 4/0 11/11 8/0 11/11 8/8 8/8 6/5 8/8 8/7 8/8 8/8 11/10 0/0 7/6 8/7


2017/2018 Mazama Annual 113

7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/16 7/17 7/18 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/28 7/29 7/30 7/30 7/31 8/2 8/3 8/3 8/4 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/13 8/17 8/17 8/18 8/19 8/19 8/19

Date

Castle-Pinnacle, East Ridge Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Matterhorn, Ice lake Mt. Goode, NE Face Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Black Peak, South Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Tipsoo Peak, East Side Howlock Mountain, West Saddle Echo Peak, Spray Park Cowhorn Mountain, Southwest Ridge Diamond Peak, South Ridge Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Black Peak, South Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse Ingalls Peak, South Ridge Eagle-Chutla, Standard Del Campo Peak, South Gully Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Old Snowy and Ives, Snowgrass Flat Mt. Washington, North Ridge Gothic Peak, Standard Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Mt. Washington (Olympics), Big Creek Castle-Pinnacle, East Ridge Broken Top, NW Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Lane, Denman, Plummer, SE Gulley & Standard Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Buckner, North Face Pyramid Peak, Standard Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Copper and Iron Mt., Tahoma Creek Trail

Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Terry Brenneman/Andy Nuttbrock Joseph Eberhardt/Yun Long Ong Bob Breivogel/Mark Salter Glenn Widener/Susan Nelson Teresa Redman/Greg Scott Elizabeth Copeland/Whitney Lindahl Rico Micallef/Michael Austin Chris Kruell/Erin Devlin Donna Vandall/Larry Buzan Larry Beck/Bridget Martin Lisa Ripps/Michael Hynes Thomas Miller/Jeff Hawkins Michael Hortsch/Eric Dattoli Joe Whittington/Nicole Gaines Shane Harlson/Daniel Bailey George Shay/Allison Legg Larry Beck/Brooke Weeber Robin Wilcox/Jesse Applegate Alexander Fox/John Andrews Joe Whittington/Nicole Gaines Joe Whittington/Nicole Gaines Doug Wilson/Greg Graham Joe Whittington/Nicole Gaines Joe Whittington/Nicole Gaines Rico Micallef/Michael Lewis Scott Osbron/Yun Long Ong Bill McLoughlin Bruce Yatvin/Christine Troy Lisa Ripps/Marjorie Hendryx Rayce Boucher/Richard Schuler Gary Ballou/Stephanie Buer Rayce Boucher/Rob Neyer Larry Beck/Tim Donner Tim Scott/Patrick Thorpe George Shay/Justin Colquhoun Robin Wilcox/Valerie Uskoski Larry Beck/Howie Davis Ryan Christie/Scott Howe Rico Micallef/Yun Long Ong Gary Bishop/Scott Templeton Morgan Harvey/Dan Gerbus Gary Ballou/Tracie Weitzman Josh Lockerby/Alex Lockard Dan Gerbus/Morgan Harvey Joseph Eberhardt/Seeger Fisher Rico Micallef/Stacey Reding Eric Brainich/Kirsten Isakson Elizabeth Copeland/Karen Graves Eric Brainich/Greg Hughes Richard Bronder/Morgan Harvey

Leader/Assistant

9/9 7/7 7/6 4/0 10/8 9/9 6/6 7/0 6/6 8/8 9/9 6/0 9/9 7/6 9/8 11/10 8/8 5/0 6/6 0/0 5/5 4/4 6/6 4/4 8/8 9/9 8/8 9/9 6/6 5/5 6/6 5/5 10/10 0/0 8/8 12/12 10/9 9/8 11/11 8/8 8/0 10/10 11/11 0/0 4/4 10/10 4/4 5/5 7/0 10/10

8/19 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/22 8/23 8/25 8/25 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/27 8/27 8/29 8/30 8/30 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/7 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/11 9/16 9/16 9/16 9/16 9/17 9/17 9/19 9/23 9/23 9/25 9/26 10/1 10/7 10/8 10/15

Date

South Sister, Green Lakes Mt Ararat, Kautz Creek Broken Top, NW Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Aurora & Tokaloo Rock, St. Andrews Lake South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Plummer & Denman Peaks, Reflection Lake Old Snowy, Goat Lake Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge West MacMillan Spire, Terror Glacier Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir South Early Winter Spire, South Arete North Sister, South Ridge Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Paul Bunyan’s Stump, South Face Mt. McNeely, West Ridge Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier Clark Mtn/Luahna Peak, Clark/Walrus Glacier South Sister, South Side Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Borah Peak (ID), Chicken Out Ridge Mt. Buckindy, North Route Middle Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse North Sister, South Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Del Campo Peak, South Gully Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Broken Top, NW Ridge Wheeler Peak (NV), Snake Divide Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes Matterhorn, Ice lake Plummer, Standard Eagle-Chutla, Longmire Trail Mt. Howard, Nason Ridge

Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Rico Micallef/Scott Auble Richard Bronder/Morgan Harvey Rico Micallef/Sándor Lau John Meckel/Mark Curran Doug Wilson/Darrin Funk Paul Steger/Eric Hoem Howie Davis/Gary Bishop Robin Wilcox/Tracie Weitzman Teresa Redman/Elizabeth Copeland Eugene Lewins Ania Wiktorowicz/April Wolstencroft Andrew Bodien/Michael Levis Robin Wilcox/Jesse Applegate Michael Hortsch/Robert Sinnott Gary Ballou/Matthew Bailie Jon Major/Jonathan Myers Gary Ballou/Matthew Bailie Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Ray Sheldon/Kate Evans Shirley Welch/Marty Scott Daniel Mick/Matthew Bell George Shay/Guy Wettstein Bruce Yatvin/Aimee Shoemaker Ryan Christie/Andrew Leaf Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Ellen Gradison/Karen Graves John Meckel/Yun Long Ong Paul Underwood/Rachel Seibert Gary Ballou/Jesse Applegate Ray Sheldon/Larry Murry Ellen Gradison/Joe Powell Paul Underwood/Antonio Tatum Jill Kellogg/Nicole Gaines Alexander Fox/Kirk Newgard Shane Harlson/Teresa Redman Richard Bronder/Andrew Leaf Joseph Eberhardt/Michael Lewis Matthew Sundling/Jay Satak Andrew Bodien/Meryl Lipman Matthew Sundling/Jay Satak John Meckel/Mark Curran Kevin Clark/Richard Stellner Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Howie Davis/Paul Underwood Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Donna Vandall/Scott Stevenson Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher Daniel Mick/Kevin Kohberger

Leader/Assistant

10/10 9/9 10/9 9/9 0/0 9/9 5/5 6/6 11/11 5/5 8/7 5/5 6/6 9/9 5/5 0/0 5/5 5/5 9/9 5/5 7/5 0/0 9/8 7/7 4/0 0/0 0/0 7/7 6/6 0/0 8/6 9/9 0/0 0/0 12/12 9/9 5/5 12/12 0/0 12/12 9/9 7/0 8/8 5/0 8/0 0/0 4/3 4/3 4/0


114 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

3/1 3/17 4/19 4/22 4/22 4/22 5/2 5/2 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/5 5/7 5/8 5/12 5/13 5/14 5/15 5/17 5/18 5/18 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/22 5/25 5/25 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/28 5/29 6/1 6/1 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/3 6/3 6/4 6/5 6/10 6/12

Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Jefferson, Milk Creek Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Red Mountain (Cle Elum), East Side Mt. Hood, Sunshine Mt. Hood, South Side Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Big Snagtooth Silver Star Mountain, Silver Star Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct Ingalls Peak, South Face Ingalls Peak, South Face Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Shasta, Cascade Gulch Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Wy’east Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute The Tooth, South Face Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, South Side

Date   Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Steve Warner/Chris Reigeluth Larry Beck/Lindsey Mayo Karen Graves/Bruce Yatvin Rico Micallef/Scott Auble John Godino/Mikey Austin Bob Breivogel/Scott Auble Howie Davis/Kirby Young Darrell Weston/Adonay Solleiro Lynne Pedersen/Jonathan Myers Richard Bronder/Suresh Singh Bruce Yatvin/Kaitlin Rupert Richard Bronder/Alex Lockard Gary Bishop/Trey Schutrumpf Daniel Mick/Dirk Lakeman Daniel Mick/Dirk Lakeman Shane Harlson/Kirk Rohrig Rico Micallef/Greg Simons Jesse Applegate/Tyler Bax Jesse Applegate/Larry Beck Bob Breivogel/Thomas Dodson Rico Micallef/Eric Brainich George Shay/Dirk Lakeman Andrew Leaf/Lynne Pedersen Greg Scott/Christine Troy Shirley Welch/Marty Scott Teresa Redman/Shane Harlson Gary Bishop/Grant Causton Joe Eberhardt/Long Ong Alex Fox/Toby Contreras Tyler Bax/John Godino Jesse Applegate/James Jula Jason Breaker/Wim Aarts Andrew Bodien/Harry Colas Karen Graves/Lynne Pedersen Rico Micallef/Jeremy Galarneaux Vaqas Malik/Jonathan Myers Jason Breaker/Rico Micallef Joe Petsche/Kirk Newgard

Eric Brainich/Walker McAninch-Runzi

Marc Milobinski/Vaqas Malik Daniel Mick/Valerie Uskoski Rico Micallef/Chaitanya Sathe

Rico Micallef/Mike Austin, Glenn Widener

Eric Brainich/Matthew Bell Jeremy Buck/Walter Keutel Jesse Applegate/Michael Hortsch

Leader/Assistant

2/2 0/0 4/4 0/0 6/6 0/0 6/6 9/9 2/2 8/8 7/7 10/10 10/10 5/5 0/0 10/10 8/8 6/6 0/0 2/2 6/6 4/4 4/4 5/5 3/3 2/2 2/2 0/0 4/4 10/10 0/0 9/9 4/4 10/10 9/9 3/3 8/8 6/6 2/2 5/5 8/8 10/10 5/5 9/9 7/7 5/5

6/15 6/15 6/15 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/17 6/18 6/20 6/20 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/25 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/29 6/30 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/1 7/2 7/4 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/6 7/7 7/7 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/10 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/15

Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake The Brothers, South Couloir Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. Adams, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Little Tahoma, Frying Pan Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier Castle/Pinnacle, East Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier Mt. Jefferson, East Face Mt. Wow, Lake Allen Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Wow, SW Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Granite Peak, Standard Route (Montana) Mt. Wood (Montana) Mt. Wood (Montana) Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Mt. Washington (Olympics), Big Creek Mt. Baker, Park Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Adams, White Salmon Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Buckner, SW Route South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side

Date   Mountain, Route

2018 Official Mazama Climbs Start/Finish

Rico Micallef/Eric Brainich Joe Eberhardt/Seeger Fisher Ania Wiktorowicz/Alex Lockard Michael Levis/Andrew Bodien Josh Lockerby/Angela Schaefer Jeffrey Welter/Lauren Mason George Shay/Steve Warner Lynne Pedersen/Dirk Lakeman Joe Whittington Richard Bronder/Margie Hendryx Greg Scott/Ryan Abbott Daniel Mick/Justin Colquhoun Chris Kruell/Debbie Dwelle Shane Harlson/Taylor Courier Lynne Pedersen/Michael Levis Chris Kruell/Christine Yankel John Godino/Nicole Gaines Bruce Yatvin/Sándor Lau Joe Petsche/Larry Buzan John Godino Eric Brainich/Anna Buckley Rico Micallef/Mikey Austin Doug Wilson/Cathy Gaylord Gary Bishop/Scott Templeton Larry Beck/Joseph Crook Linda Mark/Sándor Lau Howie Davis/Nimesh Patel Michael Levis/Walter Keutel Alex Fox/Justin Colquhoun Steve Warner/Andy Nuttbrock Shane Harlson/Alex Lockard Daniel Mick/Trey Schutrumpf Sarah Bradham/Trey Schutrumpf Daniel Mick/Trey Schutrumpf Jeffrey Welter/Laura Guderyahn Lynne Pedersen/David Roche Matthew Sundling/John Barkhausen Long Ong/Marc Milobinski Eric Brainich/Rico Micallef George Shay/Guy Wettstein Bob Breivogel/Joe Powell Bruce Yatvin/Christine Troy Linda Mark/Jonathan Myers Terry Brenneman/Kate Evans Joe Eberhardt/Joseph Crook Greg Scott/Matthew Bell

Leader/Assistant

4/4 6/6 9/9 5/5 9/9 6/6 7/7 0/0 6/6 5/5 7/7 7/7 7/7 10/10 5/5 8/8 8/8 8/8 10/10 0/0 6/6 0/0 3/3 5/5 0/0 5/5 8/8 6/6 10/10 7/7 0/0 0/0 0/0 0/0 3/3 0/0 2/2 5/5 0/0 0/0 3/3 0/0 4/4 7/7 0/0 10/10


2017/2018 Mazama Annual 115

7/15 7/15 7/16 7/16 7/17 7/18 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/25 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/29 7/29 7/29 8/3 8/4 8/5 8/6 8/6 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/12 8/12 8/14 8/14 8/15 8/17 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/19 8/19 8/20 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/25 8/25 8/26 8/26 8/28

Mt. Adams, North Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Washington, North Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Second Mother Mountain, Mowich Lake Castle/Pinnacle, East Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Snowking Mountain, Kindy Ridge Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier Middle Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Baker, North Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Jefferson, Marion County Highpoint Gothic Peak, East Side Del Campo Peak, South Gully Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Pugh, NW Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge The Tooth, South Face Mt. Pilchuck, Bathtub Lakes Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Buckhorn Mountain Castle/Pinnacle, East Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge North Sister, Collier Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Sister, Hayden Glacier Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, Ives Peak, Snowgrass Flats Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier Plummer-Denman, Standard Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Pyramid Peak, Standard Ingalls Peak, East Ridge of North Peak Eagle-Chutla Peaks, Longmire Trail North Sister, Hayden Glacier Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge

Date   Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Amy Brose/David Aerne Howie Davis/David Urbaniak Matthew Sundling/Eric Risner Matthew Sundling/Adam Russell Rico Micallef/Jonathan Myers Doug Wilson/Jeff Earll Morgan Harvey/Larry Beck George Shay/Megan Banker Bob Breivogel/Steven Wagoner Karen Graves/Rico Micallef Ellen Gradison/Jamie Boryska Matthew Sundling/Ryan Cupp Gary Bishop/Jon House Joe Whittington/Howard Buck Rico Micallef/Andy Nuttbrock Rico Micallef/Andy Nuttbrock Linda Mark/Dawn Van Seggen Jeffrey Welter/Michael Hortsch Bill Stein/Bob Breivogel Gary Ballou/Amy Brose Tyler Bax/Joe Eberhardt Bill Stein/Bob Breivogel Lynne Pedersen/David Roche Bruce Yatvin/Kirk Newgard Bob Breivogel/Jen Travers Paul Underwood/Jason Havelka Howie Davis/David Urbaniak Michael Hortsch/Andrea Ogston Joe Eberhardt/Stephen Hirai Matthew Sundling/Alyssa Hursh Matthew Sundling/Joshua Lupkin Bob Breivogel/John Sterbis Bill Stein/Eugene Lewins Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Vaqas Malik/Nicole Gaines Gary Ballou/Bridget Martin Bill Stein/George Shay Joe Petsche/Jeff Tolentino Andrew Bodien/Jason Havelka Andy Nuttbrock/Josh Lockerby Bill Stein/George Shay Matthew Sundling/Ryan Cupp Rico Micallef/David Acton Teresa Redman/Dawn Van Seggen Gary Bishop/Kristi Riedel Richard Bronder/Dawn Van Seggen James Jula/Tom Baughman Richard Bronder/Dawn Van Seggen Long Ong/Eric Brainich Andrew Leaf/Rico Micallef

Leader/Assistant

2/2 10/10 4/4 4/4 7/7 3/3 6/6 7/7 5/5 3/3 3/3 2/2 5/5 0/0 9/9 9/9 5/5 4/4 5/5 5/5 4/4 5/5 2/2 0/0 7/7 7/7 4/4 0/0 6/6 7/7 6/6 5/5 6/6 5/5 7/7 2/2 6/6 3/3 2/2 9/9 6/6 2/2 6/6 9/9 8/8 10/10 2/2 0/0 5/5 5/5

8/31 9/1 9/2 9/5 9/5 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/13 9/15 9/17 9/18 9/21 9/22 9/23 9/27 9/27 9/29 9/29 9/29 10/6 10/7 10/7 10/7 10/7 10/12 10/13 10/13 10/20 10/21 10/21 11/10 11/11 11/18 11/18 12/5 12/5 12/7 12/25

Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Sister, Devils Lake Plummer Peak, Standard Route Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse North Sister, Hayden Glacier Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes Stevens Peak, West Ridge North Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route Observation Rock, Standard Ice Route Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Adams, North Ridge Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail Observation Rock, Standard Ice Route Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Traverse Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Broken Top, NW Ridge Beacon Rock Southeast Corner Broken Top, NW Ridge Broken Top, NW Ridge Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Devil’s Kitchen Headwall Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows

Date   Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Thomas Miller/Kent Kimball Long Ong/Daniel Mick George Shay/Stephen Hirai Ray Sheldon/Larry Murry Michael Levis/Pushkar Dixit Andrew Leaf/Bruce Yatvin Josh Lockerby/Darrin Funk Matthew Sundling/Joshua Lupkin Matthew Sundling/Dian Ott Matthew Sundling/Andy Nuttbrock Jill Kellogg/Helene Simon Alex Fox/Trey Schutrumpf Matthew Sundling/Joshua Lupkin Matthew Sundling/Andy Nuttbrock Marc Milobinski/Amy Graham Bill Stein/Richard Bronder Joseph Crook/Eric Brainich Eugene Lewins/Kelly Casad Doug Wilson/Jeff Earll Gary Bishop/Tyler (Toby) Creelan Walter Keutel/Nate Zeiler Steve Warner/Scott Auble Sándor Lau/Richard Bronder Shane Harlson/Amrish Menjoge Eric Brainich/Anna Buckley Joe Eberhardt/Suresh Singh Matthew Sundling/Andrea Ogston Bob Breivogel/Steven Wagoner Terry Brenneman Matthew Sundling/Andy Phan Bob Breivogel/Steven Wagoner Tracie Weitzman/Jesse Applegate Andy Nuttbrock/Michael Levis Shane Harlson/Long Ong Vaqas Malik/Pushkar Dixit Bruce Yatvin/Zsuzsanna Vida Joseph Crook/Terry Brenneman Matthew Sundling/Matthew Bell Matthew Sundling/Trey Schutrumpf Matthew Sundling/Melinda Hugo Matthew Sundling/Luke Levin Matthew Sundling/Justin Colquhoun Rico Micallef/Jonathan Myers Rico Micallef/Jeremy Galarneaux Matthew Sundling/Ryan Johnson Joe Petsche/Scott Auble

Leader/Assistant

4/4 4/4 8/8 7/7 2/2 6/6 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/8 6/6 8/8 9/9 9/9 5/5 4/4 6/6 6/6 3/3 1/1 4/4 6/6 6/6 3/3 4/4 4/4 4/4 7/7 0/0 2/2 7/7 2/2 4/4 8/8 2/2 6/6 6/6 2/2 7/7 8/8 2/2 7/7 2/2 2/2 2/2 0/0


2017 Official Mazama Trail Trips Date Leader

1/2 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/4 1/5 1/5 1/5 1/5 1/5 1/6 1/10 1/10 1/14 1/14 1/15 1/18 1/19 1/19 1/19 1/19 1/21 1/21 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/25 1/26 1/26 1/26 1/26 1/26 1/27 1/28 1/28 1/29 1/29 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 2/1 2/2 2/2 2/4 2/4 2/5 2/5 2/6 2/6 2/7 2/7 2/7 2/7

Date Leader

Trip

Matt Reeder David Braem Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Wayne Lincoln Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler David Gast David Braem Wayne Lincoln Rex Breunsbach David Nelson Tom Eggers Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Rex Breunsbach Terry Sherbeck Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Regis Krug Tom Eggers Regis Krug Matt Reeder Bill Stein Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach David Nelson Dan Smith Bob Breivogel Gary Riggs Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Tony Spiering Wayne Lincoln Daniel Van Rossen Sherry Bourdin Wayne Lincoln Susan Koch Paul Steger Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln

Mt. Tabor Ramble (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cape Horn Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls White River Canyon Snowshoe Dry Creek Falls Swan Island-Mocks Crest Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Elk Mountain Loop Twin Lakes Winter Backpack (Day 1) Dog Mountain Twin Lakes Winter Backpack (Day 2) Bayocean Spit (AYM) Tri-County (Ghost) Ridge Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Northern Gales Creek Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Bunker Hill Barlow Road to Palmeteer Point Snowshoe Balfour-Klickitat River Silver Falls State Park Cape Horn Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Banks-Vernonia Linear Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Kings Mountain Pocket Creek Nordic Ski Trillium Lake Snowshoe Alameda Ridge Big Bend: Boquillas Canyon (hike 1 of 2) Big Bend: Hot Springs Canyon (hike 2 of 2) Big Bend: Grapevine Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble

116 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

2/7 2/8 2/8 2/9 2/9 2/9 2/9 2/9 2/10 2/10 2/11 2/11 2/11 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/16 2/16 2/16 2/18 2/18 2/18 2/19 2/20 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/22 2/23 2/23 2/23 2/23 2/24 2/25 2/25 2/25 2/25 2/25 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 3/1 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/3 3/4 3/5 3/5 3/7 3/7 3/7

Trip

Lisa Ripps Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Wayne Lincoln Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bob Breivogel Robert Smith Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel David Nelson Bob Breivogel Amanda Brown Keith Dechant Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Sue Brickey Sándor Lau Reuel Kurzet Bill Stein Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Bob Breivogel Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Rex Breunsbach Rex Breunsbach Mike Kacmar David Nelson William O’Brien Matt Reeder Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln Rex Breunsbach Dyanne Foster David Braem Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot

Downtown Street Ramble Big Bend: Burro Spring (hike 1 of 2) Big Bend: St. Elena Canyon (hike 2 of 2) Big Bend: Basin Loop (hike 1 of 2) Big Bend: Mule Ears Spring (hike 2 of 2) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Big Bend: South Rim Big Bend: Mexico Hike to Boquillas Big Bend: Windows (hike 1 of 2) Big Bend: Lost Mine (hike 2 of 2) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe Big Bend: Carlsbad Caverns Little North Santiam Trail Bennett Pass Road Snowshoe (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Catherine Creek NW Foothills Exploration Trillium Lake XC Ski Forest Park Mt. Talbert with cave (Families) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Coyote Wall Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cascade Locks-Herman Creek Bridge Cape Lookout Lower Deschutes River (AYM co-leader) Bennett Pass Snowshoe Hillsdale to Council Crest Lower Deschutes River (AYM co-leader) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Lyle Cherry orchard Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Forest Park (Maple Trail) Trillium Lake XC Ski Cape Lookout Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble


Date Leader

3/7 3/7 3/8 3/9 3/9 3/9 3/9 3/10 3/11 3/12 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/16 3/16 3/16 3/16 3/16 3/18 3/18 3/19 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/23 3/23 3/23 3/23 3/25 3/25 3/26 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/29 3/29 3/30 3/30 3/30 3/30 3/30 3/31 4/1 4/1 4/2 4/2 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/6 4/6 4/6 4/6 4/6 4/6 4/7 4/8

Trip

Wayne Lincoln Terry Sherbeck Rex Breunsbach David Braem Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler David Gast Richard Getgen Jim Selby David Braem Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln David Braem Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Rick Craycraft David Nelson Bill Stein Steve Benson David Braem Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Jennifer Trask Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Jennifer Trask Reena Clements Richard Getgen Kate Evans Steve Benson David Braem Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza David Braem Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Richard Sandefur Sherry Bourdin Richard Getgen Bob Breivogel Toby Creelan Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Jennifer Trask Bob Breivogel Leslie Langan Meg Linza Steve Benson Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln

Date Leader

Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Oxbow Park Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cape Horn Catherine Creek West Lacamas Lake Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Oneonta Creek Trillium Lake Snowshoe Hamilton Mountain via Equestrian Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cottonwood Canyon (AYM) Catherine Creek Labyrinth Oneonta Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Angels Rest and beyond Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Deschutes River Trail Vernonia-Banks Linear Trail Coyote Wall Lyle Cherry Orchard (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tillamook Head Dog Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Bonney Butte

Trip

4/8 4/9 4/9 4/10 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/13 4/13 4/13 4/13 4/13 4/15 4/15 4/15 4/17 4/17 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/20 4/20 4/20 4/20 4/20 4/21 4/22 4/22 4/22 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/24 4/24 4/25 4/25 4/25 4/25 4/25 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/27 4/27 4/27 4/27 4/27 4/27 4/27 4/29

Dan Smith Bob Breivogel Reena Clements Rex Breunsbach Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Keith Dechant Meg Linza Tony Spiering Steve Benson Rex Breunsbach Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Daniel Van Rossen Toby Creelan Kate Evans Flora Huber Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Joe Whittington Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Ray Sheldon Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler David Gast Richard Getgen Flora Huber David Nelson Rex Breunsbach Dyanne Foster Reuel Kurzet Larry Solomon Bill Stein Rex Breunsbach Reuel Kurzet Rex Breunsbach Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Reuel Kurzet Richard Sandefur Rex Breunsbach Reuel Kurzet Meg Linza Larry Solomon Bob Breivogel Rex Breunsbach Reuel Kurzet Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Tom Guyot

4/29

Ashley Kewitts

Herman Creek Pinnacles Table Mountain Klickitat River (AYM) Tarbell Trail to Hidden Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hoyt Arboretum Ramble (AYM) Mount Tabor Street Ramble Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Criterion Tract (AYM) Hamilton Mountain Devils Rest via Larch Mountain Trail Nesmith Point (Corky’s Corner) Catherine Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Dog Mountain Siouxon Creek Mount Tabor Street Ramble Cougar Trails (Vancouver) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Wind Mountain Memaloose Hills Herman Creek Pinnacles Devils Rest via Wahkeena Hells Canyon Outing, Day 1 Benson Plateau Hells Canyon Outing, Day 1 (assistant) Hardy Ridge Ape Cave Hells Canyon Outing, Day 2 Hells Canyon Outing, Day 2 (assistant) Hells Canyon Outing, Day 3 Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hells Canyon Outing, Day 3 (assistant) Downtown Street Ramble Hells Canyon Outing, Day 4 Hells Canyon Outing, Day 4 (assistant) Mount Tabor Street Ramble Forest Park (BPA & all firelanes) Downtown Street Ramble Hells Canyon Outing, Day 5 Hells Canyon Outing, Day 5 (assistant) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Heritage Tree #1 (Ladd’s Addition) Catherine Cr & Weldon Wagon Rd (AYM co-leader)

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 117


2017 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

4/29 4/29 4/29 4/30 4/30 4/30 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/3 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/4 5/4 5/6 5/6 5/6 5/7 5/7 5/8 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/10 5/10 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/12 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/14 5/15 5/15 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/17 5/17 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/19 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/21

Trip

Catherine Cr & Weldon Wagon Rd (AYM co-leader) Jim Selby Dry Creek Falls Larry Solomon Silver Falls S.P. Perimeter Loop Tom Eggers Mosier Tunnels Brett Nair Lyle Cherry Orchard Bill Stein Larch Mountain Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Richard Sandefur Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Rex Breunsbach Estacada’s Eagle Creek Meg Linza Mount Tabor Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Richard Sandefur Downtown Street Ramble Robert Smith Downtown Street Ramble Daniel Van Rossen Downtown Street Ramble Richard Getgen Labyrinth-Coyote Wall Loop Bruce Giordano Kings Mountain Sarah Miller Chenowith Tableland (AYM) Joe Kellett Mount Defiance via Starvation Ridge Reuel Kurzet Angels Rest Flora Huber Dry Creek Falls Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Richard Sandefur Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Rex Breunsbach Wilson River-Forest Center Meg Linza Mount Tabor Street Ramble Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble Daniel Van Rossen Downtown Street Ramble David Gast Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista) Sherry Bourdin Elk Mountain Loop Tom Eggers Hamilton Mountain & Little Beacon Rock Susan Koch Cape Horn Jim Selby Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge Bob Breivogel Dalles Mountain Ellen Burns Coyote Wall Flora Huber Falls Creek Falls Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Richard Sandefur Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Rex Breunsbach Sedum Ridge-Mowich Butte Meg Linza Mount Tabor Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Richard Sandefur Downtown Street Ramble Robert Smith Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Daniel Van Rossen Downtown Street Ramble Ellen Burns Weldon Wagon Road Deborah Gant Salmon River Trail Richard Getgen Cape Lookout Tom Guyot Heritage Tree #2 (Laurelhurst-Lone Fir) David Nelson Devils Peak via Cool Creek David Nelson Mirror Lake Matt Reeder

118 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

5/21 5/22 5/23 5/23 5/23 5/23 5/23 5/23 5/24 5/24 5/25 5/25 5/25 5/25 5/25 5/25 5/26 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/28 5/28 5/28 5/29 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/31 5/31 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/2 6/3 6/3 6/3 6/3 6/4 6/4 6/4 6/5 6/5 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/11

Trip

Mark Sanzone Ellen Burns Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Ellen Burns Jim Selby Larry Solomon Bill Stein Bob Breivogel Ellen Burns Tom Eggers Meg Linza Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Ellen Burns Rex Breunsbach Toby Creelan David Nelson Matt Reeder Rex Breunsbach Joe Kellett Bill Stein Flora Huber Bill Middleton Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Alice Brocoum Meg Linza Gary Riggs Steve Benson Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Ellen Burns Reena Clements Richard Getgen Kirk Rohrig Larry Solomon Toby Creelan Kate Evans

NW Heights Ramble Warrior Rock-Sauvie Island Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista) Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Angels Rest Moulton Falls Salmon Butte Dog Mountain Larch Mountain Augspurger Mountain-Cook Hill Tom McCall Point & Rowena Plateau Saddle Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Table Rock Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Dog Mountain Wildcat Mountain via McIntyre Ridge Nehalem Spit Loop (AYM) Hunchback Mountain (Great Pyramid) Underhill Trail (AYM) Elowah & Upper McCord Falls Silver Falls Huckleberry Mountain via Boulder Ridge Siouxon Creek Tualatin River NWR Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Mount Tabor Street Ramble Dog Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Cape Falcon (AYM co-leader) Bayocean Spit Cape Falcon (AYM co-leader) Hardy Ridge-Hamilton Mountain Fifteenmile Creek (AYM) Larch Mountain


Date Leader

6/11 6/11 6/12 6/12 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/15 6/16 6/17 6/17 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/21 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/26 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/28 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/1 7/2 7/3 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/6 7/6 7/6

Trip

Angela Schaefer Bill Stein Flora Huber Jim Selby Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Bob Breivogel Meg Linza Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Deborah Gant Tom Guyot Angela Schaefer Ellen Burns Flora Huber Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Bertie August Tony Spiering Steve Benson Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Ellen Burns Tom Eggers Richard Getgen Jim Selby Ellen Burns David Gast Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Meg Linza Richard Sandefur Steve Benson Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Ellen Burns Keith Dechant Kirk Rohrig Angela Schaefer Dyanne Foster Jim Selby Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Meg Linza Sarah Miller Rex Breunsbach Leslie Langan Karl Langenwalter

Date Leader

Ape Caves McNeil Point Tillamook Forest Center Lacamas Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Salmon Butte Heritage Tree #3 (Irvington) Angels Rest via Wahkeena Larch Mountain Crater Tualatin River NWR Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Tabor Street Ramble Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Siouxon Creek Larch Mountain Twin Lakes (Wapinita Pass) Fort Vancouver Estacada-Eagle Creek Hamilton Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Tabor Street Ramble Dublin Lake Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Lewis River Trail Green Point Mountain (AYM co-leader) Green Point Mountain (AYM co-leader) Tom-Dick Mountain Casey Creek Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Rock of Ages Tom-Dick Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Riverview Ramble (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Burnt Lake-East Zig Zag Mountain Bald Mountain Sunset Hike (AYM co-leader)

7/6 7/6 7/6 7/6 7/7 7/8 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/12 7/13 7/13 7/13 7/13 7/13 7/14 7/15 7/15 7/17 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/21 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/24 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/27

Trip

Matt Reeder Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Daniel Van Rossen Alice Brocoum Richard Getgen Joe Kellett Ellen Burns Bruce Giordano Bill Middleton Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Meg Linza Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Gary Riggs Kelly Marlin Larry Solomon Flora Huber Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Ellen Burns Meg Linza Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Marilyn Zigler Flora Huber Larry Solomon Sherry Bourdin Reena Clements Richard Getgen Sándor Lau Jim Selby Keith Dechant Angela Schaefer Larry Solomon Ellen Burns Flora Huber Steve Benson Wayne Lincoln Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Larry Solomon Wayne Lincoln Buzz Lindahl Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler

Bald Mountain Sunset Hike (AYM co-leader) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Ramona Falls Hidden Lake & Little Zig Zag Falls Silver Star Mountain via Bluff Mountain Timothy Lake Loop Elk-Kings Traverse Tualatin River NWR Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Bull of the Woods Palmateer Point Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Table Mountain Indian Mountain Indian Mountain Lava Canyon Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Big Huckleberry Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Sleeping Beauty Boulder Ridge to Huckleberry Mountain Devils Peak Opal Creek (AYM) Bald Mountain Overlook Burnt Lake (AYM) Larch Mountain Crater Harts Cove (AYM) Ape Canyon Ape Canyon Cape Horn Wildcat Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Larch Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Whetstone Mountain Downtown Street Ramble 4T Trail (Classics) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 119


2017 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

7/28 7/29 7/31 7/31 7/31 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/2 8/2 8/3 8/3 8/3 8/3 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/5 8/6 8/7 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/10 8/10 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/12 8/12 8/13 8/14 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/16 8/16 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/18 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22

Trip

Ellen Burns Matt Reeder Sue Brickey Richard Getgen Robert Smith Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Wayne Lincoln Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Rex Breunsbach

Silver Star Mountain via Ed’s Trail Heather Canyon (AYM) Yellowstone: Fairy Falls, Imperial Geyser Yellowstone: Upper Geyser Basin Loop Yellowstone: Upper Geyser Basin Loop Yellowstone: Seven Mile Hole Yellowstone: Fairy Falls, Imperial Geyser Downtown Street Ramble Yellowstone: Artist Point & Monument Geyser Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Yellowstone: Mount Washburn Yellowstone: North Rim & Natural Bridge Yellowstone: Avalanche Peak Yellowstone: Natural Bridge, Storm Point, Sue Brickey Pelican Creek Richard Getgen Yellowstone: Elephant Back Mountain Yellowstone: Imperial Meadow & Fairy Falls Robert Smith Loop Rex Breunsbach Yellowstone: Lewis Channel Loop Richard Getgen Yellowstone: Storm Point & Pelican Creek Robert Smith Yellowstone: Lone Star Geyser Rick Amodeo Cape Horn Stacey Reding Paradise Park Leslie Langan Umbrella Falls & Tamanawas Falls Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Sarah Miller Salmon River (AYM) Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble Daniel Van Rossen Downtown Street Ramble Marilyn Zigler Downtown Street Ramble Bertie August Mount Tabor Street Ramble Rex Breunsbach Buck Peak Ellen Burns Potato Butte Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble Marilyn Zigler Downtown Street Ramble M. Jay Feldman Eagle Creek Flora Huber Harry’s Ridge Tom Eggers Mount Defiance Richard Getgen Timothy Lake Bruce Giordano McNeil Point Flora Huber McNeil Point Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Ellen Burns Ape Canyon-Plains of Abraham Meg Linza Mount Tabor Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble Robert Smith Downtown Street Ramble Jennifer Trask Downtown Street Ramble Daniel Van Rossen Downtown Street Ramble Anne Harris Cape Horn Rick Amodeo Olallie Butte (Solar Eclipse Viewing Hike) Steve Benson Downtown Street Ramble Bob Breivogel Downtown Street Ramble Gretchen Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Tom Guyot Downtown Street Ramble Wayne Lincoln Downtown Street Ramble Lisa Ripps Downtown Street Ramble Leslie Shotola Downtown Street Ramble

120 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

8/23 8/23 8/23 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/25 8/26 8/27 8/27 8/28 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/30 8/30 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 9/1 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7

Trip

Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Sarah Miller Wayne Lincoln Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Ellen Burns Greg Simons Ellen Burns Reuel Kurzet Jim Selby Tom Guyot Wayne Lincoln Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Ellen Burns Meg Linza Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler William O’Brien Chris Boeger Sherry Bourdin Keith Dechant Kate Evans Dyanne Foster Anne Harris Aaron Huston Meg Linza Nicole Peltz Stacey Reding Angela Schaefer Jim Selby Greg Simons Adonay Solleiro Joan Zuber Chris Boeger Kate Evans Dyanne Foster Anne Harris Aaron Huston Meg Linza Nicole Peltz Stacey Reding Angela Schaefer Greg Simons Adonay Solleiro Joan Zuber Chris Boeger Kate Evans Dyanne Foster Anne Harris Flora Huber Aaron Huston Meg Linza Nicole Peltz Stacey Reding Angela Schaefer Greg Simons Adonay Solleiro Joan Zuber Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Wayne Lincoln Richard Sandefur

Owl Point Mount Tabor Street Ramble Elk Rock Ramble (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Serene Lake Loop Larch Mountain Crater McNeil Point Tualatin Hills Nature Park Triple Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble South Coldwater Lake Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Bull of the Woods RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge Kings Mountain Hurricane Creek (AYM) RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls Rodney Falls & Beacon Rock RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap Lewis River Falls RTM: Cloud Cap to Top Spur RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Top Spur to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble


Date Leader

9/7 9/7 9/10 9/10 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/13 9/13 9/14 9/14 9/14 9/14 9/14 9/14 9/16 9/17 9/17 9/17 9/18 9/19 9/19 9/19 9/19 9/20 9/20 9/21 9/21 9/21 9/22 9/23 9/23 9/23 9/24 9/25 9/26 9/26 9/26 9/26 9/27 9/28 9/28 9/28 9/28 9/29 10/1 10/3 10/3 10/3 10/3 10/3 10/5 10/5 10/5 10/5 10/6 10/7 10/8 10/8 10/9 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/10

Trip

Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Sherry Bourdin Jim Selby Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Bertie August Tony Spiering Bob Breivogel Eric Hall Patty Pandzik Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Eric Hall Keith Dechant Brett Nair Patricia Neighbor Rex Breunsbach Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Leslie Shotola Rex Breunsbach Meg Linza Rex Breunsbach Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Tom Guyot Larry Solomon Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Ellen Burns Bill Stein Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Patty Pandzik Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Gary Riggs Brett Nair David Nelson Bill Stein Ellen Burns Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola

Date Leader

Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Lookout Mountain Round Lake Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Tabor Street Ramble Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Canyon Creek Meadows Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tam MacArthur Rim Neahkahnie Mountain (AYM co-leader) Cape Horn Neahkahnie Mountain (AYM co-leader) Soda Lakes Peak Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Little Huckleberry Mountain Mount Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Siouxon Creek Riverside Trail of the Clackamas Heritage Tree Hike #4 (Sellwood) East Zig Zag Mountain via Cast Creek Sedum Ridge Tillamook Head Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Grassy Knoll Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Badger Lake Rampart Ridge Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Ape Canyon-Plains of Abraham Gumjuac Saddle to Jean Lake Lookout Mountain Ape Cave Cape Falcon to Neahkahnie Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble

10/11 10/12 10/12 10/13 10/14 10/14 10/15 10/16 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/18 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/20 10/22 10/22 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/25 10/26 10/26 10/26 10/26 10/28 10/28 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/30 10/31 10/31 10/31 11/1 11/2 11/2 11/2 11/2 11/3 11/4 11/4 11/4 11/5 11/5 11/6 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/8 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/10

Trip

Tony Spiering Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Sherry Bourdin Jim Selby Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Leslie Shotola David Gast Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Rex Breunsbach Leslie Shotola William O’Brien Rex Breunsbach Bill Stein Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Tony Spiering Steve Benson Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Richard Getgen Steve Hooker Reena Clements Rick Craycraft Regis Krug Patricia Neighbor Angela Schaefer Rex Breunsbach Rex Breunsbach Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Jim Selby Jeff Benson Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Tom Dodson Kelly Marlin Matt Reeder Sherry Bourdin Bruce Giordano Flora Huber Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Flora Huber

Gales Creek-Storey Burn Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Bald Butte Elk Mountain Loop Lacamas Lake Gnat Creek Fifteenmile Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cape Horn Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hagg Lake Downtown Street Ramble Olallie Lake Harts Cove Hardy Ridge Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Vernonia-Banks Linear Trail Cape Horn Cape Horn (AYM co-lead) Lookout Mountain Falls Creek Falls Cape Horn (AYM co-lead) Portland Loop Greenleaf Overlook Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Soda Peak Lakes Observation Peak Dog River Reehers Camp/Step Creek (AYM) Old Salmon River Trail Kings Mountain Salmon River Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Talbert

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 121


2017 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

11/11 11/11 11/11 11/12 11/13 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/15 11/16 11/16 11/16 11/16 11/16 11/17 11/18 11/18 11/18 11/18 11/19 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/24 11/24 11/25 11/25 11/25 11/26 11/26 11/27 11/28 11/28 11/28 11/28 11/29 11/30 11/30 11/30 11/30 12/1 12/2 12/2 12/2 12/2 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/4 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/6 12/7 12/7 12/7 12/7 12/8

Trip

Brett Nair David Nelson Gary Riggs Reuel Kurzet David Gast Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler William O’Brien Deborah Gant Sándor Lau Angela Schaefer Bill Stein Dyanne Foster Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Regis Krug Bill Stein Bob Breivogel Tom Dodson Reuel Kurzet Rick Craycraft Jim Selby Sarah Miller Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler David Gast Rick Craycraft Bruce Giordano David Nelson Adonay Solleiro Toby Creelan Ken Park Kirk Rohrig Paul Steger Flora Huber Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Don McCoy

Siouxon Creek Twin Lakes Lookout Mountain Forest Park: Wildwood-Leif Erikson Loop Hardy Ridge Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Stahlman Point Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Providence Park to Willamette Stone Deschutes River Mazama Lodge Work Party (AYM) Cascade Head-Harts Cove (2nd leader) Cascade Head-Harts Cove Devils Peak Lookout Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Opal Creek Cape Horn Table Mountain Hoyt Arboretum Silver Star Mountain via Grouse Vista Moulton Falls Pup Creek Falls (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Dry Ridge Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cape Horn Canemah Bluff Dog Mountain White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe Table Mountain (AYM) White River Canyon Snowshoe (AYM) Cape Horn Devils Peak Lookout (AYM) Columbia Slough Old Salmon River Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Greenleaf Peak Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Marquam Park

122 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

12/9 12/9 12/9 12/10 12/12 12/12 12/12 12/12 12/12 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/14 12/14 12/14 12/14 12/15 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/17 12/19 12/19 12/19 12/20 12/21 12/21 12/21 12/21 12/23 12/27 12/28 12/28 12/28 12/30 12/30 12/31

Trip

Rick Craycraft Kelly Marlin Kat Valdre Brett Nair Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Toby Creelan Steve Benson Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Gary Riggs Toby Creelan Dyanne Foster Deborah Gant Sándor Lau William O’Brien Bill Stein Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Joe Whittington Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Rick Craycraft Keith Dechant Rex Breunsbach

Elk-Kings Traverse Wind Mountain Silver Creek Falls Dog Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Forest Park Bunker Hill White River Canyon Snowshoe (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Cape Horn Tilly Jane Snowshoe (AYM) Table Mountain Salmon River Trillium Lake Nordic Ski (AYM) Fanno Creek Mount Talbert with cave Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Forest Park (Maple Trail) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Twin Lakes Snowshoe Pup Creek Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Graham Oaks Silver Falls State Park (AYM) Forest Park Roller Coaster


2018 Official Mazama Trail Trips Date Leader

Date Leader

Trip

1/1 1/1 1/1 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/3 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/6 1/6 1/7 1/7 1/8 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/10 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/12 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/15 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/17 1/17 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/20

Mark Fowler Regis Krug Joe Whittington Jeff Benson Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Rick Craycraft Ken Park Sue Dimin Paul Steger Flora Huber Jeff Benson Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Don McCoy Leslie Shotola Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Flora Huber Dyanne Foster Deborah Gant David Nelson Sue Brickey Bruce Giordano Kurt Hiland Richard Pope Bill Stein Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Jeff Benson Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Bob Breivogel

1/20 1/21 1/21 1/22 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/24 1/25 1/25 1/25 1/25 1/26 1/27

Patricia Neighbor Angela Schaefer Bill Stein Flora Huber Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Jeff Benson Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask William O’Brien Gary Bishop

Dog Mountain Trillium Lake Snowshoe White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble University Falls Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Tabor-Rocky Butte Kings Mountain Elk Mountain Alameda Ridge Clear Lake X-C Ski Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Whipple Creek Dog Hike Downtown Street Ramble Bells Mountain via Moulton Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Latourell Falls & Bridal Veil Falls Salmon Butte Pocket Creek Snowshoe White River Canyon Snowshoe Forest Park (Newton Road) Saddle Mountain Cook Hill Forest Park (Newton Road) (2nd leader) Rampart Ridge Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Larch Mountain via Yacolt Burn Steigerwald NWR (Classic) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tillamook Head Barlow Pass to Twin Lakes Snowshoe (AYM) Portland Bridges Maxwell to Mountain View Snowshoe Cross Country Ski Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble White River Canyon Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hillsdale to Lake Oswego Dog Mountain

1/27 1/27 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/30 1/30 1/30 1/30 1/30 1/31 1/31 2/1 2/1 2/1 2/1 2/3 2/4 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/7 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/9 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/11 2/11 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/14 2/14 2/15 2/15 2/15 2/17 2/18 2/19 2/19 2/20 2/20 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/23 2/23 2/24 2/25

Trip

Rick Craycraft Sándor Lau Bob Breivogel Mark Fowler Sándor Lau Angela Schaefer Jeff Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Mamiko Okada Joe Whittington Jeff Benson Rex Breunsbach Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask David Zeps Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Don McCoy Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach David Braem Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler William O’Brien Regis Krug David Nelson Kat Valdre Mark Fowler Bill Stein Jeff Benson Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Tom Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Sarah Miller Lisa Ripps Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Rick Craycraft Joe Whittington Rex Breunsbach Tony Spiering Rex Breunsbach Tony Spiering Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Tony Spiering Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Tony Spiering Kurt Hiland Sue Dimin

Happy Valley Alpne Trail XC Ski (AYM) Triple Crown Elk-Kings Traverse Salmon River Trail (AYM) Silver Falls State Park Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tillamook Forest White River Moonlight Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Coyote Wall Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Moulton Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hidden Falls via Tarbell Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hillsdale to Goose Hollow Hamilton Mountain Bennett Pass Snowshoe Tom-Dick Mountain Snowshoe Devils Peak Loop Smith Rocks-Misery Ridge Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Wilson River to Keening Creek Cape Lookout Weekend (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Riverfront Loop Mud Creek Ridge XC Ski Tucson: Blackett’s Ridge Tucson: Phonline Trail-Sabino Canyon Rd Tucson: Tangue Verda Ridge Tucson: Douglas Spring-Bridal Wreath Falls Tucson: Madera Canyon Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tucson: Chiracohua National Monument Downtown Street Ramble Tucson: Bear Canyon Tucson: Bear Canyon Cruzzat Rim Dog Mountain

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 123


2018 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

Trip

2/25 2/27 2/27 2/27 2/27 2/27 2/28 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/2 3/2 3/3 3/3 3/3 3/3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/5 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/7 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/9 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/11 3/11 3/11 3/12 3/12

Gary Riggs Jeff Benson Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Rex Breunsbach Bob Breivogel Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Krista Collins Flora Huber Rex Breunsbach Rick Craycraft David Nelson David Zeps Bruce Giordano David Nelson Bill Stein Rex Breunsbach Jeff Benson Steve Benson Don McCoy Terry Sherbeck Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Flora Huber Rex Breunsbach Dyanne Foster Kelly Marlin Bill Stein Juan Fran Carceles Krista Collins Rick Craycraft Bob Breivogel David Gast

3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/14 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/15

Bob Breivogel Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Terry Sherbeck Robert Smith Marilyn Zigler Bob Breivogel Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler

3/16 3/16 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/18

Bob Breivogel Eric Hall Patricia Neighbor David Nelson Matt Reeder Sue Dimin

Lyle Cherry Orchard Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Portland History Ramble (AYM) Cape Horn Cape Lookout Cooper Mountain Twin Lakes Backpack, Day 1 Table Mountain Kings Mountain Twin Lakes Backpack, Day 2 Baskett Slough NWR Chocolate Falls Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Crown Zellerbach Trail (N Scappoose) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Duncan Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tillamook Burn Visitor’s Center Gales Creek Salmon Butte Dog Mountain Lower Loop 5T Trail Saddle Mountain Sellwood History Ramble (AYM) Elk Mountain Loop Death Valley: Sidewinder Hardy Ridge Death Valley: Mosaic Canyon & Mesquite Dunes Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Death Valley: Keane Wonder Mine Downtown Street Ramble Death Valley: Golden Canyon Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Death Valley: Desolation Canyon & Pyramid Canyon Cottonwood Canyon Pinnacles Trail Catherine Creek (AYM) Trillium Lake Snowshoe Silver Falls State Park (AYM) Augspurger Mountain

124 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

Trip

3/20 3/20 3/20 3/20 3/21 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/24 3/25 3/25 3/25 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/28 3/28 3/29 3/29 3/30 3/30

Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Larry Solomon Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bob Breivogel Sherry Bourdin Prasanna Narendron Bill Stein Gretchen Guyot Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Mark Fowler Tony Spiering Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Mark Fowler William O’Brien

3/31 3/31 3/31 4/1 4/1 4/2 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/4 4/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/6 4/7 4/7 4/8 4/8 4/8 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/11 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/14 4/14 4/15 4/16 4/17 4/17 4/17 4/17

Reena Clements Larry Solomon Joe Whittington Mark Fowler Reuel Kurzet David Gast Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Flora Huber Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Mark Fowler Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Kat Valdre Rex Breunsbach Ken Park Reena Clements Reuel Kurzet Bill Stein Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Don McCoy Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Inge Winters Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Krista Collins Lauren Sankovitch Sherry Bourdin Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur

Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Silver Falls Perimeter Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Loop Riverfront Loop Tom-Dick Mountain Snowshoe Cottonwood Canyon Gooseneck Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Dog Mountain Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Elk-Kings Traverse North Siouxon Creek Gooseneck Ridge/Cottonwood Canyon (AYM) Opal Creek God’s Thumb-The Knoll Loop Hardy Ridge-Hamilton Mountain Forest Park Cape Horn Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Lyle Cherry Orchard Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Wygant Peak Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Wind Mountain Hardy Ridge Forest Park Swale Canyon (AYM) Hillsdale to Council Crest Dog Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Crown Zellerbach Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Yale Lake Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Sedum Ridge Portland History Ramble (AYM) Coyote Wall (AYM) Tryon Creek & Riverview Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble


Date Leader

Trip

4/17 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/20

Daniel Van Rossen Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Kate Evans Flora Huber Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler William O’Brien

4/22 4/22 4/22 4/22

Rex Breunsbach Sue Brickey Reena Clements Bill Stein

4/23 4/24

Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson

4/24 4/24 4/24 4/24 4/24 4/24 4/24

Rex Breunsbach Megan JohnsonFoster Mamiko Okada Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler

4/25 4/25

Rex Breunsbach Gary Riggs

4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/28 4/28 4/29 4/29 4/29 4/29 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/2 5/2 5/3

Rex Breunsbach Gretchen Guyot Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Kate Evans Chad Rossmeissl Bruce Giordano Lauren Sankovitch Angela Schaefer Jim Selby Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Megan JohnsonFoster Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Sherry Bourdin Rex Breunsbach Bob Breivogel Bill Stein David Zeps Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Bertie August

5/3 5/3 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/5 5/5 5/6 5/6 5/6 5/7 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/9

Date Leader

Downtown Street Ramble Northern Forest Park Lewis River Falls Hamilton Mountain Deschutes River Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Oswald West-Neahkahnie Mountain Hells Canyon: Pittsburg Landing to Kirkwood Ranch Forest Park (Big Stump) Moulton Falls (AYM) Hardy Ridge-Hamilton Mountain Hells Canyon: Kirkwood Ranch to Sheep Creek Ranch Downtown Street Ramble Hells Canyon: Sheep Creek Ranch to McGaffe Cabin

5/9 5/10 5/10 5/10 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/13 5/13 5/14 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/16 5/17 5/17

Downtown Street Ramble Timberline to Palmer Snowshoe Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hells Canyon: Sheep Creek Ranch to Kirkwood Ranch Huckleberry Mountain (Boulder Ridge) Hells Canyon: Kirkwood Ranch to Pittsburg Landing Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Zoo to Pittock Mansion (AYM) Saddle Mountain Memaloose Hills & Mosier Tunnel (AYM) Cook Hill Steigerwald NWR Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Wygant Peak Downtown Street Ramble

5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/18 5/19 5/20 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/23 5/23 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/26 5/27 5/27 5/28 5/29 5/29 5/29 5/29 5/30 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/6 6/6

Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tumula Mountain Falls Creek Falls St. Johns Bridge Loop Tamanawas Falls Dalles Mountain Ranch Table Mountain Latourell Falls Greenleaf Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble

Trip

Rex Breunsbach Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Keith Dechant Brett Nair Bob Breivogel Jim Selby Rex Breunsbach Rex Breunsbach Tom Jones Buzz Lindahl Don McCoy Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Steve Benson Rex Breunsbach Megan JohnsonFoster Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Jim Selby Jim Selby Bill Stein Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Sherry Bourdin Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler Jim Selby Dyanne Foster Priyanka Pendharkar Bertie August Gretchen Guyot Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Daniel Van Rossen Rex Breunsbach Steve Benson Terry Sherbeck Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Sherry Bourdin Ellen Burns Bill Stein Rex Breunsbach Gretchen Guyot Flora Huber Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Bob Breivogel Rex Breunsbach

Duncan Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Great Smoky Mtns: Boogerman Bald Butte (AYM) Hamilton Mountain Memaloose Hills Great Smoky Mtns: Cataloochee Divide Great Smoky Mtns: Charlie’s Bunion Great Smoky Mtns: Looking Glass Rock Downtown Street Ramble Rhododendron Garden (Classic) CZ Trail-East Fork Nehalem River Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Great Smoky Mtns: Le Conte Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Great Smoky Mtns: Little Cataloochee Great Smoky Mtns: Max Patch Boulder Ridge (Huckleberry Mountain) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Bald Butte Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Ridgefield NWR Salmon Butte Bald Butte Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Salmon Butte Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mount Tabor Hamilton Mountain Paradise Park Hunchback Mountain (Great Pyramid) Downtown Street Ramble Mitchell Point Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Greenleaf Peak

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 125


2018 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

Trip

6/6 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/9 6/9 6/10 6/10 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12

Dyanne Foster Tom Jones Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Kelly Marlin Brett Nair Bruce Giordano Jim Selby Jeff Benson Steve Benson Gretchen Guyot Flora Huber Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask

6/13 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/14

Rex Breunsbach Daynne Foster Gary Riggs Tony Spiering Steve Benson

6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14

Meg Linza Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Daniel Van Rossen Marilyn Zigler

6/15 6/15 6/15

Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Joe Whittington

6/16

Meg Linza

6/17 6/18 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/19 6/19

Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Meg Linza Jeff Benson Steve Benson Flora Huber Don McCoy

6/19 6/19 6/19 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/22 6/23 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28

Mamiko Okada Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Bertie August Tony Spiering Tom Jones Robert Smith Jennifer Trask William O’Brien Rex Breunsbach Bob Breivogel Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask

Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Scott Point (Archer Mountain) Elk-Kings Mountain Salmon Butte Fort Vancouver & Vancouver Waterfront Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Catherine Creek Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble West Coast Trail: Pachena TH-Michigan Creek Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Buck Peak Gales Creek-Storey Burn Loop Downtown Street Ramble West Coast Trail: Michigan Creek-Tsusiat Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble West Coast Trail: Tsusiat Falls-Carmamah Creek Falls Creek Falls Lewis River Falls West Coast Trail: Carmamah Creek-Camp Creek West Coast Trail: Camp Creek-Thrasher Cove Saddle Mountain West Coast Trail: Thrasher Cove Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Upper Laurel Hill Yale Reservoir Logging Road Dog Walk Mount St. Helens (Marble Mountain to Loowit Trail) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Knebal Springs-Bottle Prairie Loop Table Rock-Rooster Rock Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Table Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble

126 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

Trip

6/30 7/1 7/1 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/6 7/7 7/7 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/15 7/17 7/17 7/17 7/17 7/17 7/18 7/18 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/21 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/24

Ellen Burns Ken Park Matt Reeder Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Jim Selby Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Keith Dechant Rex Breunsbach Richard Sandefur Terry Sherbeck Robert Smith Marilyn Zigler Ken Park Rex Breunsbach Dan Smith Ellen Burns Larry Soloman Joe Whittington Flora Huber Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Kelly Marlin David Nelson Jim Selby Rex Breunsbach David Braem Bob Breivogel Flora Huber Tom Jones Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Jeff Benson David Braem Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Lauren Sankovitch Marilyn Zigler Eric Hall Brett Nair Ellen Burns Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Robert Smith Jeff Benson David Braem

7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/25 7/25

Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Tom Jones Don McCoy Mamiko Okada Lisa Ripps Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Rex Breunsbach

Siouxon Creek Wind Mountain Lolo Pass-Bald Mountain (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Rodney Falls & Beacon Rock Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Table Rock (AYM) Red Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Table Mountain Soda Lakes Herman Creek Pinnacles Coldwater Lake Coldwater Lake Cape Lookout & Niagara Falls Tamanawas Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Jefferson Park Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Eightmile Creek Loop Huckleberry Mountain via Boulder Ridge Moulton Falls Wood Lake-Sawtooth Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Sleeping beauty Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Grizzly Peak via Pamelia Lake Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Powell Butte Sunset Hike (AYM) Downtown Street Ramble Paradise Park Cape Horn Silver Star Mountain via Grouse Vista Glacier: Siyeh Pass Glacier: Iceberg Lake Glacier: Medicine-Grizzly Lakes Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Glacier: Highline Trail to Granite Park Chalet Glacier: Garden Wall Downtown Street Ramble Warrior Rock-Sauvie island Cooper Spur Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Glacier: Grinnell Glacier


Date Leader

7/25 7/25 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/28 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/30 7/31 7/31 7/31 7/31 7/31 7/31 8/1 8/1 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/3 8/4 8/5 8/5 8/6 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/13 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/17 8/17

Trip

Richard Getgen Gary Riggs Robert Smith Rex Breunsbach Richard Getgen Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Robert Smith Marilyn Zigler Ellen Burns Richard Getgen Robert Smith David Nelson Ellen Burns Jim Selby Larry Soloman Sherry Bourdin Flora Huber Tom Jones Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Daniel Van Rossen Bertie August Ellen Burns Tom Jones Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Daniel VanRossen Marilyn Zigler Kat Valdre Gary Riggs Ellen Burns Brett Nair Rex Breunsbach Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Robert Smith Daniel VanRossen Bertie August Bob Breivogel Rex Breunsbach Rex Breunsbach Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Eric Hall Mitch Auerbach Angela Schaefer Larry Solomon David Braem Flora Huber Larry Solomon Daniel VanRossen Bertie August Larry Solomon Tony Spiering Bob Breivogel Flora Huber Tom Jones Matt Reeder Larry Solomon Marilyn Zigler William O’Brien Larry Solomon

Date Leader

Glacier: Baring-St. Mary-Virginia Falls Mt. Mitchell via Sugarloaf Trail Glacier: Otokomi Lake Glacier: Iceberg Lake & Ptarmigan Tunnel Glacier: Grinnell Lake Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Glacier: Iceberg Lake Downtown Street Ramble Loowit Falls via Windy Ridge Glacier: Bullhead Lake Glacier: Hidden Lake Overlook Devils Peak via Cool Creek Cascade Head-Harts Cove Round Lake via Lacamas Creek Cascade Head-Harts Cove Saddle Mountain Cook Hill Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Gnarl Ridge-Elk Meadows Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Dog Mountain Paradise Park Hummocks to Johnston Ridge Cooper Spur Round Mount St. Helens Backpack, Day 1 Round Mount St. Helens Backpack, Day 2 Lewis River Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Gnarl Ridge-Elk Meadows Round Mount St. Helens Backpack, Day 3 Indian Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble McNeil Point Dry Creek Falls Dry Creek Falls North Cascades: Yellow Aster Butte Downtown Street Ramble Wildcat Mountain North Cascades: Heliotrope Ridge Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble North Cascades: Goat Mountain Kings Mountain Downtown Street Ramble Mirror Lake Downtown Street Ramble Portland Rock City Ramble (AYM) North Cascades: Skyline Divide Downtown Street Ramble Olallie Lake Loop North Cascades: Hannegan Pass-Peak

8/18 8/18 8/18 8/19 8/20 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/26 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/29 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 9/1 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/5 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/7 9/9 9/9 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/12 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/14 9/14 9/15 9/15 9/16 9/18 9/18 9/18 9/18 9/19 9/20 9/20 9/20

Trip

Sherry Bourdin Rex Breunsbach Kelly Marlin Jim Selby Ellen Burns Steve Benson Flora Huber Don McCoy Lisa Ripps Robert Smith Bertie August Tony Spiering Steve Benson Bob Breivogel Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Marilyn Zigler Ellen Burns Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Leslie Shotola Daniel VanRossen Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Jim Selby Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Richard Sandefur Inge Winters Ellen Burns Ellen Burns Jim Selby Tom Jones Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Lisa Ripps Jennifer Trask Inge Winters Ellen Burns Eric Hall Eric Hall Kelly Marlin Ellen Burns Steve Benson Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Inge Winters Bertie August Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola

North Cascades: Horseshoe Bend Trail North Cascades: Chain Lakes Twin Lakes Salmon Creek & Burnt Bridge Ramona Falls Loop Downtown Street Ramble Harry’s Ridge Hardy Creek Loop Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Gales Creek to Bell Camp Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Potato Butte Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Latourell & Bridal Veil Falls Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain Cape Horn Lacamas Lake Evening Trail Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Indian Heaven (Thomas-Bear-Blue) Canyon Creek Meadows Belknap Crater Indian Mountain Indian Heaven (Cultus Lake-Wapiki Lake) Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 127


2018 Trail Trips, continued from previous page Date Leader

Trip

9/20 9/21 9/22 9/25 9/25 9/25 9/25 9/25 9/26 9/26 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/28 9/29 9/29 9/30 9/30 10/3 10/4 10/7 10/10 10/11 10/13 10/14 10/17 10/18 10/21 10/24 10/25 10/27 10/28 10/28

Inge Winters William O’Brien Jim Selby Steve Benson Lisa Ripps Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Marilyn Zigler Bertie August Rex Breunsbach Tom Jones Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Inge Winters Alice Brocum Brett Nair Larry Solomon Rex Breunsbach Ellen Burns Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Sherry Bourdin Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Bob Breivogel Bruce Giordano Tony Spiering Flora Huber Jim Selby Rex Breunsbach Flora Huber Kate Evans Jim Selby Rick Craycraft

10/31 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/4 11/5 11/7 11/10 11/11 11/12 11/14 11/14 11/17 11/18 11/21 11/22 11/23 11/23 11/24 11/24 11/25 11/28 12/9 12/9 12/11 12/19 12/21 12/22 12/26

Rex Breunsbach Susan Koch Dyanne Foster David Nelson Kate Evens Marty Hanson Rex Breunsbach Kelly Marlin Bruce Giordano Bill Stein Tony Spiering Rex Breunsbach Ken Park Brett Nair Rex Breunsbach Kelly Marlin Jim Selby Gary Riggs Jim Selby Regis Krug Rick Craycraft Rex Breunsbach Brett Nair Rick Craycraft Don McCoy Rex Breunsbach Jim Selby Bill Stein Rex Breunsbach

Downtown Street Ramble Battle Ax Mountain-Silver King Lake Ridgefield NWR Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Little Huckleberry Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Downtown Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trail Silver Falls Grand Perimeter Loop Angora Peak Riverside Trail of the Clackamas Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Loop Lolo Pass via PCT to Lost Lake Salmon Butte Herman Creek to the Cedars Salmon River Trail Opal Creek-Jawbone Flats Saddle Mountain Kings Mountain Tillamook Burn Visitor’s Center Ft. Vancouver and Vancouver Waterfront Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Wind Mountain Hamilton Mountain Steigerwald NWR Rooster Rock via High Divide Trail PCT and Trail #400 from Cascade Locks to Herman Cr. Salmon River Trail Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) Clackamas River Trail to Pup Creek Falls Indian Point Hike Hoyt Arboretum University Falls-Coast Range Dog River Hike Salmon Butte Cascade Head-Harts Cove Gales Creek-Storey Burn Loop Bell Mountain from Moulton Falls Kings Mountain Siouxon Creek Forest Park-Maple Trail Latourell & Bridal Veil Falls Round Lake via Lacamas Creek Cape Horn Moulton Falls Backpack: Twin Lakes Palmateer Point Benson Plateau, Herman Creek Elk Mountain Hardy Ridge Elk-Kings Loop Cape Horn Bunker Hill, Holiday Celebration Ridgefield NWR White River Canyon Hamilton Island, Gaia GPS Adventure

128 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

Date Leader

12/29 12/29 12/31

Trip

Regis Krug Rick Craycraft Rex Breunsbach

Backpack: Twin Lakes Palmateer Point Laps Around Mt. Tabor Forest Park Roller Coaster

* Downtown Street Rambles continued to run from REI on Tuesday and Thursday evenings in October, November, and December, but we unfortunately are missing those records in our archives.


Photo: Harold Shields

2017/2018 Mazama Annual 129


HONORARY MAZAMA MEMBERS The provision for honorary membership was included in the Constitution of the Mazamas written in 1894. The honorary membership may be bestowed upon persons who have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas, or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research, or outdoor activities.

130 2017/2018 Mazama Annual

1894 uJohn Muir, author, naturalist, conservationist, first president of the Sierra Club 1894 uProfessor Thomas Condon, geologist and paleontologist (U of O) 1894 uProfessor Joseph Leconte, geologist, University of California 1895 uProfessor George W. Davidson, author, astronomer, US Coastal Survey 1895 uGeneral Adolphus W. Greely, Civil War veteran, Arctic explorer 1896 uProfessor Fred V. Colville, Chief Botanist, U.S. Department of Agriculture 1896 uProfessor Joseph Silas Diller, author, geologist, U.S. Geological Survey 1896 uDr. C. Hart Merriam, naturalist, author, Chief, U.S. Biological Survey 1897 uEdward S. Curtis, professional photographer of NW mountain scenery 1899 uEdward Henry Harriman, President of Union Pacific Railroad 1900 uHenry Villard, industrialist, brought the Northern Pacific Railroad to Oregon 1901 uHenry Gannett, Chief Geographer, U.S. Geological Survey 1902 uDr. Harry Fielding Reid, author, physicist, glaciologist, Johns Hopkins 1904 uGifford Pinchot, forester, conservationist 1913 uTheodore Roosevelt, former president of the United States 1921 uWilliam Gladstone Steel, first president of the Mazamas 1929 uDr. Edwin T. Hodge, Head of the Department of Geology (U of O) 1930 uLewis A. McArthur, author of Oregon Geographic Names 1939 uDr. Francis E. Matthes, glaciologist, U.S. Geological Survey 1945 uWilliam Lovell Finley, naturalist, ornithologist 1954 uRobert W. Sawyer, civic leader, editor of the Bend, Oregon Bulletin 1955 uDr. Donald B. Lawrence, botanist, University of Minnesota 1956 uJohn D. Scott, father of the Mazama Climbing Committee 1957 uLorenz A. Nelson, founder of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs 1958 uDonald G. Onthank, “Mr. Mazama,” mountaineering bibliophile 1963 uMartha K. Darcy, librarian, founder of the Mazama Library 1970 uCharles P. Keyser, Superintendent, Portland City Parks 1976 Edward A. Johann, mountaineer 1987 uRay Atkeson, Oregon’s photographer laureate 1988 Arlene Blum, author, scientist, international mountaineer 1989 uMajor William D. Hackett, U.S. Army, international mountaineer 1990 uDr. Cameron Bangs, expert in the field of hypothermia 1991 Jim Whittaker, first American to climb Mt. Everest 1992 Lou Whittaker, mountain guide, international mountaineer 1993 Yvon Chouinard, world-class climber, inventor, author 1995 Jolene Unsoeld, conservationist, state and federal legislator 1996 uWilliam H. Oberteuffer, educator, conservationist 1997 uMargaret Oberteuffer, educator, conservationist 1999 uFred Beckey, Pacific Northwest mountaineer, author 2000 uBradford Washburn, mountaineer, explorer, cartographer 2001 uBarbara Washburn, mountaineer, explorer, cartographer 2002 uKate McCarthy, conservationist 2003 uSir Edmund Hillary, first successful ascent team of Mt. Everest 2004 Dr. Stephen Boyer, holder of many climbing records 2005 Ed Viesturs, international mountaineer 2006 uRoyal Robbins, international mountaineer 2007 Dr. Christine Mackert, mountaineer, past Mazama president 2009 Ray Sheldon, mountaineer, trail builder 2010 Alan Watts, climber, author, developer of Smith Rock climbing area 2011 Vera Dafoe, mountaineer, Mazama Museum founder 2012 uDee Molenaar, explorer, cartographer 2013 Jack Grauer, mountaineer, author, Mazama Lodge builder 2014 John Roskelley, mountaineer, author 2015 Doug Wilson, mountaineer 2016 Stacy Allison, first American woman to summit Mt. Everest 2017 Dr. Andrew Fountain, glaciologist uDeceased


In Memoriam Mazama Members who passed away May 2017–May 2018 Elizabeth “Katie” Barker

1953

James Dawson Hurst

1975

Fred Beckey

1999

David W. F. McNeil

1978

Duncan Carter

2009

Lonay “Lon” Nelson

1971

Jim Craig

1954

Lyle “Doc” Nicholson

1957

Marty Crouch

1993

Ruth Reitsma

1956

Donald C. Eastman

1954

Deryl Gene Richter

1967

Glenn Alan Eaton Jr.

1963

Royal Robbins

2006

Dwain Arlen Estes

2013

JM “Jack” Samper

1975

Janet Martin Gadsby

1995

Gilbert “Gil” Staender

1945

Hunter Goin (2016)

1967

Melvin James Taylor

1962

“We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend.” Robert Louis Stevenson 2017/2018 Mazama Annual 131


We Climb High


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