2014 Mazama Annual

MAZAMA • Volume XCVI, Number 13

MAZAMA The Annual Journal of the Mazamas Vol. XCVI, No. 13 • December 2014

mission The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

vision Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.

Nesika Klatawa Sahale Chinook jargon for “We Climb High”

© Mazamas® 2014. All rights reserved. • 527 SE 43rd, Portland, OR 97215 Deb Hill, Ember Kauth, and Rob Parker on the Goat Trail traverse, near the summit of Mt. Olympus Photo: Karl Helser

FEATURE ARTICLES

p. 5–44

I Climb with John, Keith Campbell 4 Off The Tourist Path, Eugene Lewins 7 Hot Times on Freezy Nuts Deep in the Ruth Gorge, Katie Mills 10 Peru: Machu Picchu Via Inca Trail and Cordillera Blanca Climbing, Keith Daellenbach 12 Climbing for Science, David Byrne 16 Italian Dolomites: Why Not Just Do It? Ryan Christie 20 Glacier Monitoring in the National Parks of Washington State, Frank D. Granshaw 24 Kids Rock on South Sister, Eric Einspruch & Bob Murphy 26 Crater Lake Painting, Rick Craycraft 29 Missing Glaciers in the Southern Oregon Cascades, Martin Lafrenz 30 Norman Clyde: A Legend of the Sierra Nevada, Rick Craycraft 33 Mongolia: In the Footsteps & Handholds of Genghis Khan, David Anderson 36 Following History on the Bailey Range Traverse, Andrew Bodien 39 Trekking in Patagonia: Paradise Found, Sue Griffith 42

MAZAMA ANNUAL PRODUCTION EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: è

Kristie Perry

CO-EDITORS: è è è è è è

Rick Craycraft Catherine Diaz Sue Griffith Pam Monheimer Barry Maletzky Lacy Turner

PHOTO EDITOR: è

Bob Breivogel

LAYOUT AND DESIGN: è

Sarah Bradham

REPORTS President, Doug Couch Outings Committee Executive Director Volunteer Manager Mazama Membership Mazama Foundation Treasurer Mazama 2014 Awards Official Mazama Climbs Official Mazama Trail Trips In Memoriam

p. 45–76 3 45 51 62 64 64 65 65 66 68 70 76

▶▶ Front cover: Justin Brady climbing up the ladder onto the tourist platform to end the Cosmiques route on Aiguille de Midi, Bossons Glacier 4,000 feet below him (Chamonix, France). Photo: Lisa Brady. ▶▶ Inside Front Cover: Climbing in the Lost Horse area at Joshua Tree. Photo: Vaqas Malik. ▶▶ Inside Back Cover: Diamond Peak–Mt. Yoran climb, Returning to the trailhead at sunset. Photo: Bob Breivogel. ▶▶ Back cover: Jennifer Van Houten on Del Camp Peak, Sept. 20, 2014. Foggy Lake and Gothic Basin below.

North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Kevin Clark. ▶▶ This page, clockwise from top right: Climber on Mt. Hood, Chamonix, Jason Lee on rock. Photos: Andrew Holman.

President’s Report

by Bronson Potter

The Mazamas can take pride in it what we have accomplished over the past year. Highlights from 2014 include: ▶▶ LOOKING TO THE FUTURE: We refined our strategic plan to be a more succinctly stated set of priorities to guide us in the years ahead. ▶▶ PROMOTING A CULTURE OF RESPECT: We adopted our Respect Now policies, which reflect our commitment to engaging with each other in a manner that promotes mutual respect and holds people accountable when behavior falls below expectations. ▶▶ MANAGING RISK: We put into place insurance policies to protect and preserve our assets by including insurance coverage for sexual harassment claims and non-owned vehicle insurance.

▶▶ EXPANDING

EXPEDITION OPPORTUNITIES:

Bob Wilson made an incredible donation to support expedition grants, which will be paid out in the amount of $10,000 per year. ▶▶ SPECIAL FUNDRAISING

FOR SPECIAL PROJECTS: We

executed targeted fundraising efforts to design and build the ice wall at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and to send critical incident debriefing support to the Sherpa community ravaged by the avalanches in Nepal during 2014.

▶▶ PRACTICING FINANCIAL PRUDENCE: We established reserves and allocated the costs of operations across our various programs in order to allow the organization to understand the costs and benefits of what we do, ranging from outings to advocacy to education. A ▶▶ CREATING LEADERS: A key to the core of our gift of $360,000 from the Weinstein Estate mission and success is developing future enabled us to establish those reserves and leaders, whether they’re leading climbs, increase our capacity in a way that would committees, or classes. Twenty individuals have been inconceivable without this graduated from the Outdoor Leadership donation. “Thank you” doesn’t begin to Course this year. convey our appreciation for this generosity.

This is by no means an exhaustive list, ▶▶ PARTNERING WITH THE MAZAMAS FOUNDATION: but it should give you some sense of the For the first time, we worked with the progress the Mazamas has made over the past Mazamas Foundation to look at funding year in advancing our mission to promote beyond a one-year horizon. We proposed, and mountaineering through education, climbing, the foundation supported, an approach that hiking, fellowship, safety, and the protection of anticipated growing our programs, outdoor mountain environments. opportunities, and membership over three These accomplishments would not have been years rather than one year. possible without contributions of all kinds by our membership and the guidance of our stellar ▶▶ SUPPORTING FAMILIES AND KIDS: We developed executive director and the talented staff he has youth and family programs to educate future assembled. It has been a privilege to serve on members of the Mazamas and immerse them the Executive Council over the past three years in the beauty of the outdoors. and as your president for the last 12 months. ▶▶ ENGAGING MORE VOLUNTEERS: In the past year, We climb high.

Bronson Potter on Mt. Hood.

2013–2014

Executive Council Bronson Potter president Sojo Hendrix vice president Meg Goldberg secretary Terry Donahe, treasurer Judith Baker Kate Evans

Heather Campbell Amy Mendenhall Joan Zuber

more than 600 members contributed more than 90,000 hours of their valuable time to advance our mission, from education and conservation to hiking and climbing.

3

I CLIMB with John

by Keith Campbell

W

e could have spent our time drinking Dog Day, Blue Heron and Terminator. We could have spent our time swapping lies, listening to music, or maybe even going to a movie. But that’s not our way.

Like most climbs with John, it started innocently enough. John had looked into one of those fancy-pants route books—the kind you can get at any climbing shop for $22.95. You know those books. There are oodles of them full of mountains, objectives, routes, and goals of every difficulty and degree. They contain drawings of ridges with dotted lines showing the way a climber had gone in the past; pictures of mountainsides with little triangles telling you of places to spend the night that may not be totally miserable; photos of happy climbers, white glaciers, colorful flowers and lunch-stealing marmots.

I highly recommend these books. They are, after all, the printed word, checked and rechecked by editors. They contain nothing but the truth—like the famous 3-volume guide for the alpine Cascades, when the author (now elderly but still climbing) says something like, “turn left at the old stump, follow the obvious gully to the notch, go up the third couloir to the right; at the good ledge take the big crack system to the summit. Half day.” What that means to most of us is that after two days of thrashing through creeks, downed logs, vine maple, devil’s club and beehives, we can all agree that the mountain might exist and might be within 20 miles or so of our present location.

But I digress. John had found this little route, a short glacier passage on one of the higher mountains in the region: Ice Cliff Glacier, Mt. Stuart, 9,415 feet; Grade III-V— Central Washington Cascades.

I climb with John. And I always end up driving John. So in July I drive with three 4

climbing partners—John, “The Captain,” and “The Great One”—to Leavenworth, “Washington State’s Bavarian Village.” At the ranger station we join up with our fifth member, “Our Union Rep.” Onward we go to our jump-off point at the Stuart Lake trailhead. In the parking lot as we prepare to hike, Our Union Rep declares, “conditions aren’t right, you are all stupid, and we should go home.”

Discussion ensues, we agree he is most definitely correct on at least one point, but we do not know which one. We finally concede that, okay, it will be warm and the conditions might be a little challenging.

To further prove his point Our Union Rep quickly locks his keys in his Navy surplus vehicle. And just as quickly he smashes out his back window with his ice axe. Believe me this caught the attention of everybody in the parking lot. Shaking his head and commenting that we are “just dangerous,” Our Union Rep speeds down the road, leaving nothing behind but a trail of dust and some broken glass.

Now down to four people, our group follows a good trail for four enjoyable miles and then trudges through three miserable cross-country miles. The book rates the approach as Grade III+. Need I say more?

The book also says that there is a nice meadow with campsites below Sherpa and Ice Cliff Glaciers. We walk into the center of this meadow and sink mid-calf deep into the mud and bog. Sinking out of sight does not scare us in the least because we immediately recognize that the real danger comes from the mosquitoes (who want to drain all the blood from our bodies) and the black flies (who want to rip all the meat from our bones). We slap one arm, annihilating nine or ten attackers, then quickly slap the other arm and kill ten more. The slapping noises had the curious effect of attracting more bugs. Many more.

We swiftly move up to a small ridge top where the breeze reduces the army of attackers to mere hundreds. We wish for some surgical skin grafting along with blood transfusions. Instead we scrape the mud off

our boots, gaiters and pants, and bandage the bleeding.

At 5,400 feet, 1,900 feet vertical gain above the parking lot, our camp is not half bad—kind of like a tri-level house. The Captain and John set up a Bibler tent on the main floor along with our kitchen. I sleep below them in a little scoop. The Great One is above in a little pocket with his feet jutting into space and his head under a rock overhang. If startled, he will delaminate his forehead. I suggest that he sleep with his helmet on.

No need for the earliest of starts into the icefall, but still 4 a.m. comes around very early in these parts. The Captain says he feels sick and is dropping out. John and I feel good, and of course, the Great One feels great. So leaving The Captain at the toe of the glacier, we strap on our crampons at 5 a.m. and head up. This is fun. The ice is solid and the movement quick. We belay a couple of spots but mainly make short vertical hops followed by some icy knifeedges that we dance across.

The route has five parts: the lower decadent retreating glacier, which we are now traversing; the Ice Cliff; a cwm; the exit gully to the ridge opposite Cascadian Couloir; and finally up the ridge to the summit. This first part is taking much longer than it should, with lots of zigzagging and only one person moving a lot of the time. But this is okay because we figure we’ll make up the time up above on easier ground, and the descent down Sherpa Glacier is going to be a snap.

We are on the left at the base of the Ice Cliff. I peek around for a route; the book says either edge is climbable. The right side is 150 feet up and way too tall to climb sanely with the 6 ice screws we brought.

The 5.8 friction slab on the far right side has a creek running down it. The left side has 100-foot seracs that have detached from the main cliff and look very dangerous to get behind, stand in front of, or even eyeball.

The sun is now hitting a large part of the glacier below us. The old, bare glacier ice at the bottom had been good, but up

“Do not pray for easy lives. Pray to be stronger men. Do not pray for tasks equal to your powers.

Pray for powers equal to your tasks.” ~Phillips Brooks (1835–1893) here the snow covering is soft; it had not frozen overnight. Going home now does not sound like the worst idea. Retreat is discussed. Below us, the glacier is full of rocks of every shape and size, some as large as a house. And while we talk, we see a couple of the big ones move, not much, one-quarter turns, but still ... if they broke loose they would sweep the lower slope, and if we were there it would be similar to a bulldozer driving over an anthill, with us as the ants. John finds a rock anchor. I belay him up 50 feet or so where he deadends. I lower him off 20 feet and into a gully. From there he scrambles up out of sight until he runs out of rope. After setting up a belay, the Great One follows and after lowering him I notice that there is nobody left to lower me. With luck and just a little rope tension, I make it.

It is well past noon and very slow going but we are above the cliff and in the upper basin, an impressive place with the North Ridge shooting 2,200 feet above us to the summit. Climbers are up there at pitch 8 or so. To our east, another huge ridge separates us from the Sherpa Glacier. A couple of snow gullies lead out, one up the Sherpa side with a mongo cornice at the top, and another at the head of the basin leading up and away.

Forward looks dangerous. We could stay here, but then what? It’s not going to get cold enough to freeze tonight so we might as well make our escape now. John and I are single and childless but the Great One is married, the father of two sons, and the mayor of Biggs. We need to make sure he gets home in one piece.

We pass under the first gully, not liking the looks of it up high. Now we’re in the upper basin proper. It’s only something like a quarter of a mile across but we have to end run everything; we jump small crevasses, test weak bridges, and move slowly in the soft snow. As we approach the bergschrund, we hear a powerful crashing sound. We brace and look up. At the top of the first gully, one third of the cornice has broken off. It’s the size of a full dump truck and, breaking apart, it sweeps

the couloir in a mad race toward us. It stops short of our track. Even so, we look at each other in silence. I continue up.

The bergschrund is crossed. We start into the base of the gully and hear another huge boom. The rest of the cornice goes. It’s even bigger, like a semitruck. It stays together for two complete rolls, plowing massive dents in the snow and then breaks in half, into quarters, into sixty fourths, into powder and debris.

Once again the couloir is swept. Left behind are high-water marks five feet up the sidewalls. A half dozen motorcyclesize chunks fly across our path. We look at each other. Our options are bad to worse but continuing on is imperative; this feels similar to the end of a marriage: no good choices but you know you have to go forward and see what’s next. We can’t get out of here the way we came in: debris has crossed our trail, the glacier further behind us is unstable, and vertical wall with little ledges hem us in on both sides.

The gully in front of us is the only way out.

We think.

As far up the gully as I can see (a thousand feet?) a large rock splits the route in two. Which way around? Are there any cornices to the right or the left?

It starts out at about 45 degrees—not too bad—but I can see it gets steeper further up. If this were solid snow we would be in a sweet place. We’d be able to slam a picket in here and there, and bound up this puppy. Wishful thinking.

Time’s a-wasting, so we go onward and upward, full axe and short tool out. The Great One is tied in a full rope behind me and John is tied in another rope further below. This is going to take a while. I need to focus, work on movement, and stay alert to where I am, my surroundings, and the speed and condition of my team.

Breathe in through nose, move right hand and left foot up, place securely, exhale through mouth. Repeat. Again and again and again.

A couple of hundred feet up, I stick a picket in and keep on moving. The snow is very soft. I kick in to my

Keith Campbell on Mt. Maude.

Photo: John Youngman.

ankles, but my steps do not feel secure.

Working my tools in this snow reminds me of trying to stand a knife up in a cup of melting butter. I stow my short tool, go to self-belay, stuff my whole ice axe into the snow, axe head, hands and all. Piolet Mache of course! Ah, it feels half secure!

This slope is climbable; I just need to keep my mind on that.

The Great One yells he’s passing the picket. Time to put in another one. I easily stuff one in to about my armpit. I need to deadman it, dig three feet down. And then there will be no way to pack the snow back down. We’re in a hell of a place, in one hell of a set of conditions late in the afternoon. I focus, stay in my body, breathe in, move axe up, step step, breathe out, repeat. It’s spooky here; very little pro in. I concentrate and think about what I know, what I’ve been taught. Like what Bill Levitt, the Mayor of Alta, Utah once told me, “My goal is to die young at quite an advanced age.” But maybe that old line about pulling the devil by the tail fits best.

My team is either very happy with me or very scared. I know this because neither of them has called up to me lately and commented about my ancestry or which animal species I was closest to during my formative years. In short, nobody has called me an asshole for a long time.

So I yell back encouragement, “Hurry your sorry asses up! The beer is getting warm. I’m tired of dragging your stinking carcasses up this crummy hill.” Ah! Now I hear them talking. Mutual respect, brotherhood of the rope, we need each other.

continued on next page 5

I Climb with John, continued from previous page Ice! Better protection! Finally! I sink two ice screws into the clear solid water ice. Ahhhh ... I look up and see, 200 to 300 feet to the left, what looks like a ridge.

One picket left. I place it further up and in another 150 feet I am over the top. There is no gear left for an anchor so I descend the backside for 30 yards, plunge in my ice axe, sit behind it, kick in my heels, and hip belay my partners over the brink.

It is 7 p.m. We are at 8,800 feet— fourteen hours on the route and still 600 feet short of the summit. There are two hours of daylight left; camp is nowhere close. We have all stood on the summit of Mt. Stuart before. It is time to get off this mountain before it gets dark. The sky is clear but we can expect no moon. I also figure that if the descent couloir on Sherpa Glacier is anything like what we just came up, there will be no way to go down it safely. I opt to go down Cascadian Couloir and tell John that this is our only safe route of retreat. John asks what if, after crossing Ingalls Creek and climbing 1,500 feet up over Long’s Pass, we can’t find a ride. They both want to know how it is I know it goes out to the highway? I answer, “It’s got to go somewhere and Leavenworth is that way and it doesn’t matter anyway because Cascadian is our only safe route.”

John looks at me in amazement, says no, and asks how one person can come up with such an unbroken stream of truly stupid ideas.

John leads off to Sherpa Glacier. We cross third and fourth class rock to the top of our descent couloir, whereupon John turns to us and proclaims, “we are f**ked.” I laugh. The route is not nearly as steep as what we had just come up, but it is still steep and soft and ugly looking. We pitch a couple of rocks off and watch the sluffs they make as they slide off and down around a corner out of sight. The Great One suggests that we camp where we are and go down after it freezes. We all laugh; it is not going to freeze here anytime soon.

John looks at me, then looks down the other side, then looks back at me. I nod and step out on the snow slope. Except for the nasty boulders and rocks, it looks like a perfect glissade. But if we tried to slide it, one of us would end up with a broken ankle or tailbone-ectomy. Step kicking it is, so I face in and go—1,200 feet of reverse stair master.

On a large flat rock off the end of the 6

snowfield, we pack up harnesses and axes and promptly lay down, the first time off our feet since lunch a long time ago. Less than an hour of light left and we have to get up and move. The side valley we are descending is one valley east of Cascadian Couloir.

Fred Beckey said this valley or the Cascadian Couloir could be used interchangeably to ascend or descend Stuart. I wonder if anyone has used this route since Beckey was last on it in the 1950s?

It starts off with big rocks to wander between, over and under.

As we go down, the rock size goes down, from Volkswagon-size to human-size to gravel. The plant life gets bigger and the sky darker.

We don our headlamps as the slide alder, vine maple, and other Keith Campbell on Mt. Torment. Photo: John Youngman. thrash brush gathers into thickets.

There is no trail, not even the Daybreak comes and I am happy that side-hilling game trail. The biggest animal the trail is on our side of the creek. Four to traverse this ground in a long while is hours later, our Bataan march is over. the squirrel. Actually, make that a flying I step out of the woods and on to the squirrel. It is steep and trail-less and now pavement. Right in front of me is a forest dark. We move very slowly trying to pick service truck with two green-shirted a line. I am reminded of a something occupants inside taking a nap (it is 10 Greg Childs said: “This place is like a pub a.m.). Saved, I wake them and ask for without beer.” the use of their radio and for a ride to The Great One says, “My body could use the ranger station. They say, “No, we’re a rest and here will be fine.” He lies down working south of here,” roll up their and I don’t know what keeps him from windows, and drive off. John volunteers to falling down the hill. John finds a rock to watch our gear while the Great One and lean against and I tangle myself behind a I hitch a ride back to my truck. We agree tree to keep from rolling down the slope. that it’s fine if I have to pay $100 to bribe a We manage to stay in place for more than ride. Walking to the highway, I ask an old an hour. When we get going I am thankful man standing in front of a falling down for the strength of 3-inch vine maple; we cabin. He scratches his chin and says he’s make slide alder rappels and vine maple broke and his social security check has yet ravine crossings. Many rappels, many to show up. Twenty bucks plus gas money ravine crossings; some we shine our lights is all he needs and off we go. into and cannot tell their depth. As we get At the Stuart Lake trailhead I see my closer to Ingalls Creek we can hear the pickup with all the doors wide open. sounds of running water. We head towards Out of the shadows step The Captain the sound, only to drop into the thickest and a backcountry ranger. They inform brush and steepest drop-offs yet ... must me that the sheriff opened my truck up be a side creek. We wrestle ourselves out and that a helicopter is going to take off of this mess. Upon reaching Ingalls Creek I in 10 minutes to search for us. I suggest find the trail and promptly lie down in the canceling it. middle of it. John comes out of the brush The Captain and I pick up John and the and claims he could kiss the trail. I tell him Great One. John says we can now start it has already been done. A few minutes talking about our trip to Canada later this later the Great One arrives and proclaims summer. We all agree that in Canada there that he has found a trail! Looking down he will be no epics. ¾ sees us asleep in front of him.

Mazama Outing June 14–30, 2014

Off the Tourist Path:

Mazamas in the Corsican mountains

by Eugene Lewins

T

The Grand Randonnee (GR) 20 is considered by many the most difficult long-distance trek in Europe. It runs the length of the Corsican mountain chain, from the needle-like spires of the Aiguille de Bavella in the south to the fixed chains and notorious scrambles of La Cirque de la Solitude in the north. Yet, at a little over 100 miles, it’s not really that long. And it’s well marked in European style red and white paint splashes the whole length.

And those notorious scrambles—well, they have fixed chains, remember? Can it really be that hard, or is this just a European affectation? Still, every description I read in my research contained some variation of “suckers beware—it may sound easy enough ...” Weather was often listed as one of the reasons the route is considered so difficult.

Because of their location in the northern Mediterranean, these 8,000-foot-plus mountains are renowned for storms developing even more suddenly than in

he man—his wide chest stretching a heavy, cloth work shirt; his meaty hands waving the air with the authority of one familiar with directing wayward sheepdogs—burst out of the low stone building and shouted across the still, cool dawn air. The language was unclear—either Italian-accented French or Frenchaccented Italian. Or maybe it was Corsican itself. Regardless, the tone was unmistakable—indignant and commanding. Our team of eight Mazamas was heading in a line toward the trail for a long day of forest and ridgeline hiking to reach another isolated alpine hut. But right now every head of the surrounding European Team ascending Monte d’Oro. Photo: Eugene Lewins. hikers camping near this hut had swiveled to look straight at us, no doubt wondering how this sunrise showdown was going to turn out.

Uh oh. Looks like I’ve screwed up again. We’re in the last two weeks of June 2014. My plan had been to get up super early, skip the morning ritual of a formal group breakfast with all the other hikers, and sneak out quietly to get a jump on the day and the weather.

the Alps. Trip reports spoke of blisteringly hot temperatures punctuated by dramatic thunderstorms. We spent our first few days hiking in cold rain followed by dramatic lightning and thunder. And this coming day? Well, piecing together the previous evening’s conversations of our French counterparts, this day’s hike would take us up onto a several-mile exposed ridge with no escape from the afternoon “pound, soak, terrify, and repeat” pattern.

Another reason the GR20 is not to be taken lightly was being personified in the loud, arm-waving challenge the shepherd had just issued to our group. “What—you are leaving? Now? Without telling me?

Without sitting to eat with your fellows?

You insult my hospitality?”

Vendetta is the only Corsican word commonly found in other languages.

Corsica. Isle of the Vendetta. Isle of rocky ridges and steep terrain, isolated into rival valleys of proud locals who pride themselves on being a reflection of their landscape.

Corsicans have been conquered, but never subdued, by centuries of foreigners interested in its strategic seaports. None were ever able to fully penetrate the inhospitable heartland.

Resistance to French imperialism began percolating in

continued on next page 7

Corsica, continued from previous

page

Kathleen Hahn scrambling on GR20k.

Photo: Eugene Lewins.

the years following World War II. Separatist violence erupted in the 1970s and to some degree still plagues the island today. That the violence has now quieted to a smoldering is due, perhaps, to recognition by Corsicans of the economic value of tourism.

Corsicans are a people capable of an incredibly warm welcome.

At an earlier evening of our trek, a matriarch of the lowland village that owns the shepherd’s hut had invited us to a private seating before her snug hearth.

(And in doing so had pointedly ignored a trio of German hikers, leaving them to sit on their bunk shelf in the unheated sheep hut.

Their sin? Perhaps naively assuming that their fluent English would be enough to converse functionally in the backcountry).

We sampled the specialties of the region, enjoying meats and cheeses, and she laughed along with my stumbling efforts to translate our questions about nomadic life, local animals, and decades of change on the island. She was still of the generation that remembered a truly pre-modern existence when half the year was spent in these remote huts and return to the lowland village provided neither electricity nor paved roads. The evening ended with a private sampling of their homemade liqueur and her loudly pronouncing “Bonne Noce.”

We also witnessed Corsicans taking umbrage at perceived slights. When I had stopped for coffee at a rural cafe earlier in the trip, I asked in my best learned-froma-web-site French for a “nuage du lait”—a little cloud of milk—in my drink. I thought I was being clever. The weather-beaten face of the proprietor pushed into mine, his gnarled finger poking upwards. “Clouds?

Those are in the sky buddy.” Translation?

You’re not in f***ing Paris now.

Based on these experiences, one of our dilemmas was determining whether we, 8

as a group of eight Americans, would fit in better if we emulated the habits of the French hikers we had encountered, or whether Corsicans were actually more welcoming to us when they understood that we were truly foreigners.

I took the latter approach with our insulted shepherd host. Walking boldly back (at least on the outside), I gesticulated wildly, saying in my broken French how we had indeed f***ed up. Sure we should have braved the chaotic kitchen, the shouted warnings of his underlings to stay out, and told him of our plans to leave early before he discovered eight seats empty at the wooden benches. But what could you expect of us Americans? After a bit more shouting, he waved us genially on our way.

“Good luck to you, city-slickers,” I suspect were his parting words, “You’ll need it.”

Not that my own Mazama team was that much happier with me. An early start meant no breakfast and no packed lunch of bread and goat cheese. We headed across rolling hills, packs of squealing feral pigs, and through broad-leaf woods that seemed Arthurian in their wide-girth trunks and leafy understory. Soon after pausing to purify water from a trickling stream, I worked out what the blue marker meant on one of the signposts—a fresh spring flowing from the base of the cliffs! Onward we climbed, up to the crest and a dramatic summit, followed by miles of rocky ridge with angled slabs to walk across with widestretched, balancing arms—easy enough on

this still-dry morning—and fun scrambles between pinnacles.

What is that great Shakespeare sonnet?

Full many a glorious morning have I seen Flatter the mountain-tops with sovereign eye, Kissing with golden face the meadows green, Gilding pale streams with heavenly alchemy; Anon permit the basest clouds to ride With ugly rack on his celestial face …

No kidding. The change came suddenly, and the last quarter-mile we raced ahead of the darkening clouds to reach the remote alpine refuge of our night’s stay. The tiny building was full and when I found the custodian he was already surrounded by hikers pleading for non-existent spare bunks like beggars at a railway station. But once I had got through that we were the group of eight Americans with reservations, he pulled out of storage four pop-up tents.

They went up like magic, I kid you not.

When you unclip the front snap, these hoop-shaped Quechua tents spring up— full flysheet and all—in two seconds. As three inches of hail and hours of lightning pounded the hikers behind us, we nestled claustrophobic but snug.

That evening saw the most hilarious dinner event, somewhere between sublime formality and ridiculous roughing it.

Absolutely packed elbow to jaw into the tiny stone hut, rain still sluicing outside, our drenched crowd of Euro hikers still managed all the ceremony of a three-course meal. Sliced local cold sausage for appetizers, served on plates—fold-in-half-thin plastic but still plates—and then a hearty vegetable and pasta stew, with of course wine flowing in matching plastic cups, all of it passed over heads and under arms and jostled into mouths between elbows. And when the proprietor carried in a tray of delicious cream-filled pineapple cakes, the cheers of “Bon Appetit” echoed off the stone walls.

By that time, perceptions by the other hikers of our group had subtly shifted. A party of four Brits, the only other English speakers, asked about our plans for the Full team photo outside Shepherds Hut, Corsica. morning. I watched French hikers give sidelong glances to our packing. While I doubt many of them thought civilians. At the bar, as they filled their tables and sang drinking we had been clever in ducking the storm’s full power, they at least songs, other men would lean across and banter with them. thought us lucky. My dad tells me that in war, luck was the quality A common gripe our group had about the French—one I recall that soldiers look for the most in deciding whether to really having as an English schoolboy—was their seeming inability to commit to the leadership of a general. The lucky American Eight. queue in an orderly fashion. Instead they seemed to degenerate We’d go with that. into an anarchic seizing of whatever was available in front of From then on, the member of our group who arrived first at the them. One morning I found myself in charge of making hot evening’s lodging announced our group-practiced French phrase breakfast for the group at a crowded alpine hut. The challenge with pride: “Nous sommes huit Americains.” was bringing enough water to boil for our dawn brew. Like a good Halfway through our 14-day trip, the weather cleared and American team leader, I commandeered a burner and a big pot the hot Mediterranean sun welcomed us to the northern half and did my best to fend off interlopers while the team gathered. of the GR20. An unseasonally heavy snowpack lingered, and we One of the French hikers poked a nose over the pot rim. “Mais, heard that all the other groups of hikers were planning the “low c’est deja chaud?” She was scandalized that I would be reserving route” for the opening day of this section. But we Mazamas were this now-boiling water for my own team. And it hit me like one of growing in confidence, and lingering snow packs are, after all, the afternoon thunderclaps: I was completely out of sync with the something of a specialty of our Cascades training. We decided not local ethic. The Gallic group sensibility was to trust in abundance. to be put off by the concerns of these Euro hikers.

If we all share, there will be enough. Humbled, I stepped back I confess I spent much of the 4,000-foot ascent the next day— from my guard duty, allowing us to become part of a bigger group through mixed woods of firs and broad-leafs, past the ruins of than our isolated team. an old shepherd’s village in a hanging valley, over mossy but By the latter half of the trek, the terrain had risen into the easy scrambling, all of it like the best parts of every Gorge hike highest peaks—close to 9,000 feet. Descents were slow and squeezed into one—wondering if each step was further into rocky, leading into Swiss-style lush valleys, before rising again hubris. Would our way be closed ahead by the narrow chute of into heights reminiscent of the Sierra Nevada. But rather than snow reported by the locals? Eventually we entered the closed Ponderosa Pines, the open granite slabs were spotted with the basin that might give us access to the upper slopes of Monte uniquely beautiful Laricco Pines. Looking like something from d’Oro. We could see the couloir of snow at the far end, but its Dr. Seuss, their flat tops accentuated the solid trunks that stood angle was unreadable between the high cliffs. in majestic isolation, rising bizarrely tall at the upper edge of The snow-packed gully was A-climb steepness, firm footing timberline. to kicked steps, and quickly surrendered to our trekking poles.

Now we were facing the real challenge of the trek, the infamous Hoorah! Jubilation! At the top, the snow washed out into a rocky Cirque de la Solitude, part of a mountaineers’ route conceived chute of loose stone and running water. Did I mention that in the 1970s to blaze new links across previously unhikable Cascade training? My favorite picture of the trip is of my assistant, terrain. The climax is a long and rocky day circumnavigating Kathleen, cruising through this section with a big smile, so we this intimidating, awe-inspiring rock chasm. On reaching the must have been having fun! Within an hour, our youngest team rim and looking down, I felt I was in the Heart of the Mountain member and most enthusiastic new Mazama had led us through King. It seemed almost sacrilegious to be here without ropes corridors of 4th class granite to a dramatic summit overlooking and climbing rack. Would we really be able to scramble as hikers frozen lakes. across the Cirque de la Solitude to the far side, to eventually reach Many cultural experiences mixed in with our outdoor the sea and splash victoriously into the Mediterranean? adventures. We encountered a Corsican division of the French Well, fortunately, there are those fixed chains, remember? army training their new recruits by hiking them along the GR20 ʯʯ Participants: Eugene Lewins, leader; Kathleen Hahn, assistant with heavy packs. These young men loudly competed on the trail. leader; Sherry Aanerud, Rex Breunsbach, Chelsea Neilsen, Marjorie Upon arriving at each mountain “torrent,” they stripped down Neilsen, Donna Vandall, Maggie Woodward. ¾ to black undershorts and plunged into the freezing, fast-flowing waters. In the evenings, these recruits would mingle easily with 9

THIS TRIP WAS FUNDED IN PART BY A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT.

by Katie Mills

April 25–May 4, 2014

W

ithin the Central Alaska Range, a short plane ride from Talkeetna, lies the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier. With 20 peaks towering as high as 5,000 feet rising abruptly from the glacier, it’s been likened to a Yosemite for alpine climbers.

And all this rugged beauty is just a short ski from base camp.

I’d spent a great deal of time honing my alpine skills on routes such as Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge and Mt. Stuart’s Stuart Glacier Couloir. I’d driven miles and miles to learn ice climbing in Bozeman, MT, and Lilloet, B.C. I finally felt worthy of Alaska.

Todd Eddie and I flew into Anchorage the evening of Friday, April 25th, crashed in a hotel, picked up important supplies at the local Wal-Mart, and drove to Talkeetna the next day. Paul from Talkeetna Air Taxi flew us onto the glacier, and we landed late afternoon with just enough light to dig out the platform for our Mega-mid and poach a pre-made giant tent site. It was so cold our water bottles froze inside the tent. I had been sick a lot in the weeks prior, due in no small part I think, to my anxiety about the trip. Since I was still sick upon arrival at the glacier, Todd and I spent an extra 10

day carving out our camp, organizing our gear, and checking out the glacier that was to be our playground for the next week.

Monday morning’s alpine start brought us to our first objective: an ice couloir on the Werewolf Tower called Freezy Nuts. I had been smitten with Freezy Nuts because it looked like an all-fun, not-scary climb in the Ruth Gorge and I wanted to test my mettle on something that felt friendly before attempting bigger things. Although Freezy Nuts seemed friendly, I was keenly aware that people had died on it. A huge cornice at the top releases avalanches whenever it pleases. Before my trip I asked John Frieh, a local climbing coach, which route in the Ruth Gorge no one has ever died on. “None,” he told me.

Todd and I decided that I would lead the whole route as doing so would benefit my skills more than his. Skiing down the Ruth Glacier is a joyous experience. The mountains look like you could

pass them in five minutes. Yet it takes an hour, your sense of scale is so distorted by the terrain.

We roped up to pass crevasses near the edges of the glacier and headed up the steep snow slope into the couloir. The couloir was gorgeous and the snow good for step-kicking, so we happily two-tool simul-soloed, waiting for the moment I needed to put in pro. The couloir constricts greatly into little steps of WI2-3, so I put a screw in there. Ice glistened off the walls and it was truly magical being in such a tiny place. The couloir opens up again into a wide snowfield, a place where some parties turn around before reaching the col. But ours was not going to be one of those. I had to be able to look over the other side!

The last 50 feet before the col was the most grueling part. The snow was deep and powdery. I gave up, because I’m small in stature, and let Todd take over the trenching.

He tenuously trenched up the deep snow, a bit worried that he’d fall because the snow was almost too light to support him. But he made it to the top of the col. We looked over and were delighted to see even more mountains! I’ll have to look into those at some other date.

There were rap stations left by previous parties all the way down— some apparently foolish enough to have brought only a single rope. We

were smart—Todd carried a tagline in his pack. Some of the rap anchors were quite terrible and required rebuilding, a task I was quite happy to take on because it meant I wouldn’t have to down climb through ice.

After reaching the ground, we headed out on the big uphill ski back to camp.

Man, I was exhausted! And starving.

Luckily, we encountered a couple of crusher dudes putting up a first ascent on the north face of Mt. Johnson who offered us burritos. It was one of the kindest things anyone has done for me and I was so grateful.

Tuesday was a rest day, although I did not find it very restful. I was too busy cooking, melting snow for water, drying out gear, reorganizing gear, messing with solar panels, and re-digging pathways that had turned into treacherous inclines. I was exhausted from having led the entire route the day before and still recovering from being sick. We had hoped to scope alternate routes but a weird storm settled upon us, lightly snowy with an ethereal mist obstructing views of anything. I skied up the glacier towards Mt. Barille just to have something to do and in hopes of seeing anything, but I did not.

By Wednesday neither Todd nor I were feeling well. I think Todd was starting to catch my cold. We decided to take another day to scout and rest. Once the storm cleared and we were able to see again, we skied towards Mt. Barille. We were delighted to see a big fat ice flow, maybe 400 feet of WI4 on the northeast side of Mt. Dickey. I had not seen this formation in other photos of the mountain. It did not come in every year, and we wanted to climb it! Fabrizio Zangrelli and Jack Tackle, both Ruth Gorge veterans, said it had been climbed before and agreed it would be a cool objective to tackle.

The only problem was that it became hot. Really hot. After our water bottles froze that first night, it only got warmer and warmer throughout the week. We set out Thursday morning towards our goal.

After a few hours of climbing, the icefall released a huge avalanche from above, pummeling the ice flow just beyond us and the face above us. If we had been on that ice flow we would have been two dead bodies hanging from ice screws, pummeled to death by boulder-sized chunks of ice. Another party on Mt. Barille screamed at us to look out. I felt somewhat smug about our route-finding, as the

flows that came down were not near us and we were protected from ice fall by some rocky outcroppings. We sat for about two hours on a snowy hillock, listening to music on my iPhone, as the debris slowly flowed down on either side of us. Once the north face came into the shade, we began to climb cautiously closer to the icefall. But after taking a few frighteningly hard hits from softball-sized ice we frantically retreated.

Friday was our last day on the glacier. We skied a couple hours down the glacier the other way from Mt. Dickey to Mt. Johnson and the base of a route called the Escalator. We were horrified by the amount of avalanche debris we found.

Todd was willing to climb up a fun-looking first ramp of WI3, but I feared another avalanche would rip down while we were on it. The whole route is a funnel and I had heard an icefall on Mt. Wake during our approach.

We hemmed and hawed for Left page: Katie skiing down the Ruth Glacier, Mt. Dickey in the an hour before deciding that background. Photo: Todd Eddie. Top: The beatdown, haggard author cooking breakfast in the mega-mid (thanks expedition committee!) our lives were not worth the the day after climbing Freezy Nuts. Bottom: Todd rappelling Freezy risk. We had barely gotten Nuts. Photo: Katie Mills. away with them the day before. We spent the rest of affects the snow quality, and I will be more the day watching avalanches knowledgeable when the time comes to exploding off the mountains from base climb again. camp.

The Ruth Gorge holds great climbing We left the glacier on Saturday. Due to for anyone with basic steep snow and the dangerously hot weather, Jack Tackle ice skills. You don’t have to be able to and Fabrizio Zangrelli had abandoned climb WI5 or M6 to have a great time. their plans for a first ascent of Mt. Bradley Freezy Nuts is doable for a WI3 leader and so joined us for the ride out. They and the Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barille remarked that they had never seen the is only steep snow, as is the West Face Ruth Gorge so warm by May 1st. Climate of Mt. Dickey. For anyone interested in change is changing climbing; the favored journeying to the Ruth Gorge themselves seasons are shifting. I’ll go back to the (and I highly encourage it!), I suggest Ruth Gorge earlier in the year next time. reading the 2006 American Alpine Journal I am thankful for my time on the article by Joseph Puryear. Until next time, glacier. Now I understand more about Ruth Gorge … You haven’t seen the last of the geography, weather patterns, which us! ¾ routes get the sun when, and how that 11

Perú:

Dates: 2—20 July 2014

by Keith K. Daellenbach

none of us will ever forget.

ust before Christmas 2013, my parents, Chuck and Faye, mentioned almost in passing that they would someday like to visit Machu Picchu. I was stunned. But they were serious.

With both already 74 years old, I thought I’d better get on it and plan a trip. What transpired the summer following was a threegeneration Daellenbach expedition to Perú—a tour of a lifetime

The logistics were daunting, but like many previous expeditions for me, the Mazama Library offered a treasure trove of guidebooks and maps. We travelled for 19 days, visiting three main areas in Perú: Cusco/Machu Picchu; Huaraz/Cordillera Blanca; and the capital, Lima. Perú is truly an amazing country with warm, hospitable people; beautiful landscapes of high mountains, desert, rain forest, and arid coastline; awesome food; and a remarkable record of intact cultural and historical civilizations dating back thousands of years. There is no other place like it in the

J

12

Machu Picchu via Inca Trail and Cordillera Blanca Climbing

Phuyupatamarca Camp on the Inca Trail.

Photo: Keith Daellenbach.

Western Hemisphere.

Departing Portland in early July 2014, my parents and I landed at Lima’s main airport after nearly 12 hours of flying.

We bivouacked overnight, catching a few hours of sleep before my wife, Amy, and our 8-year-old son, Micah, arrived on a separate flight early the next morning.

Our luggage, which included hiking and mountaineering equipment, as well as a few large duffels full of donated educational and first aid items, all arrived.

For Amy, Micah, and Mom it was a first trip to the Southern Hemisphere and

I’d tried to prepare them for a tour that would require flexibility, endurance and a cheerful spirit, particularly for the inevitable moment when plans would go awry. In short, buckle up!

Together we took an early morning flight to Cusco. An hour later we landed in the Andean highlands at just over 11,000 feet. The altitude, essentially the same as the summit of Mt. Hood, winded us. But we forced ourselves to explore Cusco on foot that first afternoon, eventually falling into bed that evening weary from non-stop travel. Cusco had been the center of the Inca empire, the dominant culture that Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro encountered upon arrival in 1532. The Incas were master architects, building and maintaining thousands of miles of roads throughout their empire, once stretching from present-day Columbia south through Ecuador, Perú, Bolivia, parts of Argentina, and all the way to Santiago, Chile. The quality of Inca stonework boggles the mind: huge stones carved without aid of steel into polygonal shapes and fitted perfectly together like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. In the finest examples found in Cusco and Machu Picchu, the blade of a Swiss Army knife cannot penetrate even an eighth of an inch. One such specimen, a stone in Cusco at Hatunrumiyoc, has 12 sides, each perfectly fitting with adjacent stones, and is estimated to weigh over three tons! There are single stones in the religious fortress above town at Sacsayhuamán that weigh 120 tons, roughly equivalent to the entire mass of our two-story Portland home, including the basement. The Incan builders used rock quarried a couple miles distant and transported it without the use of wheel or draught animals. The Inca had no written language and communicated mathematical principals using quipus or colored strings with strategically placed knots. In Cusco, we got a taste of Incan culture where we saw indigenous artists demonstrating traditional weaving methods and patterns and we attended a native music and dance demonstration featuring the haunting sounds of the quena (pan flute).

After a couple of days on our own, staying at Alfredo’s Palace Hostel near the main Plaza de Armas and Santo Domingo Catedral, we met up with Jose Antonio Delgado Cavero, our Peruvian guide, and Merci Ortiz, Sales Executive with Apu Andino Travel Perú. Hiking the so-called

Inca Trail into Machu Picchu (all trails in this part of the Andes are of the Inca empire) requires special access permits with licensed guides and porters. I wanted to ensure that the maximum amount of our tourism dollars went to local Peruvians and I cannot Chuck, Amy, Micah, Keith and Faye at Machu Picchu. Photo: Unknown. more highly recommend Antonio’s recommendation, I agreed to Apu Andino. Merci was a phenomenal deviate from the standard plan followed by communicator who expertly established the 500 people permitted to hike the Inca the logistics for our tour and Antonio was, Trail each day. Instead, we started a halfat 28 years old, an absolutely first-rate day later than the regular surge of tourists, guide: knowledgeable, patient, solicitous, porters, and guides. Consequently, we saw accommodating, humorous, with excellent few tourists while hiking and camping. We English and even charismatic. We finalized stayed at Llaqtapata (8,500 feet), an Inca payment and reviewed our plans for the ruin at the entrance to Río Cusichaca, the days ahead. first night. We camped on a small field Antonio took us from Cusco to the above a Río Urubamba tributary right Sacred Valley via Pisac, where we saw the next to a family’s small maize crop. The concentric circular terrace depressions maize was grown using traditional hand used for experimental crop development tools and simple, but effective, irrigation at Moray, and the stunning salt terraces methods that transported water from up at Salineras, where hundreds of small, valley using small canals that followed shallow salt pans precipitate salt from a the topography. We were in Perú during heated mountain spring source. These the World Cup and Micah fit right in with pans are mined for salt, a valuable our nine fútbol-crazed Quechua porters commodity, by local families who have who played soccer through supper below used the same simple tools and collection the Inca ruins near our camp. Our porters techniques for generations. That night adopted our red-headed son, treating him we stayed in Ollantaytambo at Casa de like a younger brother or camp mascot, Wow, which at the entrance level was and they especially endeared themselves constructed of precise stonework dating by taking special care of “Grandma Faye.” from Inca times.

That night we all saw the Southern Cross The following day we continued down for the first time, and Antonio told us the the valley of the Río Urubamba, a tributary Inca legends about the constellations. of the mighty Amazon, past fields of On day two of the Inca Trail, we worked colorful quinoa, field laborers winnowing our way up valley and through the small barley in the breeze, and cows dragging cluster of homes at Wayllabamba, the plows through fertile soil. It was winter in home of our cook, Nasario. We stopped the Southern Hemisphere, but the weather for lunch and rest and were honored to was stable and mostly rain-free our entire meet his mother, sister and niece. Micah trip. We checked in at “Kilometer 82” at played peek-a-boo with his niece, a game Piskacuchu. At 8,800 feet, Piskacuchu that transcends language. From there, is actually about 600 feet higher than we continued up the Inca Trail into the Machu Picchu. It takes four days and Río Llullucha to camp at Llulluchapampa nearly 25 miles of mountain trekking (12,400 feet). Only one other small over high passes, including 13,800-foot Warmiwañusqa, to reach it. On

continued on next page

13

Peru, continued from previous page group camped nearby. The third day was long and challenging. We crossed the pass at Warmiwañusqa (aka “Dead Woman’s Pass”), climbed down into the Río Pacamayo drainage, and went back up and over a second pass at Abra de Runcu Raccay (13,000 feet). We then continued several more miles past more Inca ruins to our third night’s camp at Phuyupatamarca, Quechuan, a “place above the clouds.” We arrived just before dark. It had rained during the day and we were wet and tired. While the porters seemed concerned about us, Antonio reminded them we would be fine as we had been on many rugged mountain trips in the past. We clambered into our tents, changed out of our wet gear and gathered in the dining tent. Nasario had prepared a feast of fresh soup and vegetables, meat, salty popcorn, clean water and fruity beverages for Micah’s favorite meal of the day, which Antonio called “happy hour.”

Phuyupatamarca lived up to its namesake. Early the next morning Antonio took us up high above camp and along an overgrown trail (“just like Hiram Bingham!”) to a subsidiary peak with four small divots in the ground. Mummified remains of humans were found here long ago, each overlooking a major mountain peak with a magnificent 360-degree view including nearby Salkantay, which at 20,574 feet, is the highest peak in this part of the Andes. While we were admiring the

stupendous views and communing with the souls of the lost Inca civilization, two of the porters arrived bringing us cups of warm coca tea. Once back at camp, we discovered Nasario had somehow managed, at 12,000 feet, to cook a celebratory “birthday” cake for Micah.

After breakfast, we exchanged tearful, fond farewells and bear hugs with our porters, direct Quechua descendants of Inca heritage. We would not be seeing them again after hiking our way through jungle, past colorful orchids and tropical flowers, to our final lunch stop at Wiñay Wayna.

Our first sighting of the “Lost City of the Incas” from Intipunko (the “Sun Gate”) came that afternoon and is something I’ll never forget. We were more than a mile away and the late afternoon sun cast shadows across the ridge upon which Machu Picchu rests. This site was abandoned after the first contact with Pizarro and was never found nor razed by invading conquistadors, leaving it intact for modern day explorers. This captured all of our imaginations, not the least of which was Micah’s. That last mile to the site is a victory lap of sorts. So amazing is the trail in its solid cobbled construction that over the entire distance from start to finish I noticed only three rocks shift under my feet. Over 550 years after the Inca ruler Pachacútec, whose name means “transformer of the Earth,” constructed this religious and military citadel high on a ridge above Río Urubamba, the site today is as profound a ruin as one is likely to come upon anywhere on the planet.

After marveling at the views from Funeral Rock, we descended the final portion of the Inca Trail and caught the last bus down the mountain. After a 20-minute ride we arrived at Aguas Calientes where Micah was delighted to catch another World Cup soccer match with the locals on the big screen television that had been rolled out into the town square. The following day, we returned early to the site by bus and Antonio, Dad, Amy, Micah, and I hiked up the steep-sided Huayna Picchu peak, which offers tremendous views down to the Machu Picchu site. Antonio guided us through the many splendid treasures at Machu Picchu, my favorite being the Intihuatana Amy on the Inca Trail. Photo: Keith Daellenbach.

14

stone (“hitching post of the sun”), carved out of bedrock and aligned to the cardinal directions. That night, after our final transport with Apu Andino, we arrived back at Cusco.

This time, we veered off the beaten tourist track to an arranged “home stay” with Ernesto Fisher, one of Gloria Fisher’s adopted Peruvian sons, who is now in his twenties. We traveled to Ernesto’s subsistence farming village of Ccamahuara, located at 13,100 feet elevation. The French created the road to this village of perhaps a couple dozen inhabitants only a few years ago.

Ccamahuara sits at the end of that road, far above the Sacred Valley. Here we experienced the genuine hospitality and self-sustaining nature of hard working Peruvians. We stayed in a guesthouse, day-hiked over a 14,100-foot pass above Laguna Thraccocha, and enjoyed a traditional pachamanca lunch. The lunch consisted of a variety of tasty, colorful potatoes that had been cooked over covered coals in the ground, and a simple but elegant onion and avocado salad, all served to us by Ernesto’s wife on the high mountainside above the village. She wore a traditional polleras dress with colorful monteras hat. Playing with a soccer ball that Micah later gave away, he made fast friends with a local village boy, 6-year-old Emerson. Emerson had walked well over a mile from the laguna down off the mountain and back to the village by himself. (Imagine that occurring in the United States!) We met many of the village’s children in a cramped school building Ernesto had built, and we spoke to them about our home in the United States and donated school supplies. We dined on cuy (guinea pig) and told stories long into the night. In the morning, we were honored to meet several local residents who were weaving in a courtyard and we purchased some of their beautiful textiles to bring home.

Our time in the heart of the Inca Empire ended too soon. We made our way back to Cusco, flew to Lima, and then traveled by overnight bus about 8-1/2 hours to Huaraz, arriving in the early morning.

This is the primary mountain town at the foot of Perú’s Cordillera Blanca range and we got a feel for the place by attending a morning church service at Iglesia La Soledad. The Blanca is the world’s highest

tropical mountain range with 15 peaks over 20,000 feet. I vowed I would not go to Perú without at least attempting to climb a mountain in the Blanca. With so many peaks to choose from, I selected one I thought possibly within Dad’s and my grasp: Nevado Pisco Oeste (18,872 feet). We’d climb via the southwest slope (Grade Peu Difficile/PD). For this climbing portion of the trip, Dad and I had received a Mazama Expedition Grant. While we attempted Pisco, Amy, Micah, and Mom visited the pre-Inca ruins of Chavín de Huántar. They also provided volunteer pediatric health care instruction, and donated needed medical and school supplies to Seeds of Hope, a volunteer literacy organization, and Los Pinõs, a Catholic orphanage in Huaraz.

Amy, Micah, and Mom accompanied Dad and me to the Pisco trailhead in Quebrada Llanganuco, a beautiful valley with two stunning turquoise lakes—Laguna Chinancocha and Laguna Orconcocha. Local guide Tjen Verheye drove us to the trailhead. Tjen, a geologist from Belgium, first came to the Blanca after the May 1970, 7.9-magnitude earthquake and debris avalanche, which destroyed much of the town of Yungay.

He came to assist the recovery effort, ended up marrying a Peruvian woman, had children, and never left. As a part of his tour, we visited the sobering remains of old Yungay where 20,000 residents died in the avalanche. There we walked to the top of the cemetery hill marked by a Christ figure with outstretched hands, where a few residents had fled to and survived. A mangled local bus at the site remains as a memorial to those who perished. The area reminded me of the 1980 devastation caused by the eruption of Mount Saint Helens.

Dad and I started our climb to Pisco’s base camp at the trail head (13,000 feet) near Cebollapampa camp, just below “La Curva,” a switchback on the gravel road which connects Yungay to Vaquería on the east side of the Blanca. We dropped down a hundred feet, crossed a small bridge over the valley stream, and slowly headed up the 2½-mile hike to base camp at 15,200 feet. After a little over four hours of hiking a good trail, we arrived late in the afternoon to base camp feeling pretty good. The camp sits at the base of a large moraine that hides the glacially carved valley on the opposite side and is 150 feet directly below Refugio Perú-Pisco.

While this cirque is heavily populated by climbers and pack mules, we found clean, clear water emanating from the scree slope on the cirque’s southeast side.

The next morning, we stowed our Bibler I-tent, headed to the top of the moraine at 15,875 feet, then scrambled 150 feet down the steep side into the glacially-carved valley below. Slowly we made our way across the rubble-strewn valley, hopping at times from one large boulder to the next, many of them tipping this way and that.

After this unpleasant and tedious glacial valley crossing, we gained the moraine on the far side, and after passing 50 feet above an emerald tarn lake, we made our way up to our second camp at 16,240 feet, adjacent to a high moraine a couple hundred feet below the primary access glacier on Pisco. We moved slowly, taking frequent breaks and napping at the tarn lake to acclimatize, so this 1¼ miles of travel took about 6½ hours. We arrived at high camp in the early afternoon, set up camp, ate an early dinner, and headed to bed, planning to rise around midnight to start the climb.

During the evening, Dad experienced gastrointestinal distress, which dulled his enthusiasm for the huge summit push the next day. He awoke during the night and I suggested we sleep a few more hours before making our climb decision. By midnight, it became clear that a 2,600-foot gain to the summit, given our anticipated rate of ascent, would be neither prudent nor safe. The guides told us, and we could see for ourselves, that in the Blanca it is imperative to summit early in the morning and begin descending before the late morning winds begin raking the summit.

Falstaff ’s words in Shakespeare’s Henry IV, Part I, seemed to ring true for us: “The better part of valor is discretion, in the which better part I have sav’d my life.”

With regret, we concluded we would not summit. It was a bitter pill for us both, but the right choice for our team. Nonetheless, I reminded Dad I was camping at over 16,000 feet in the wild Andes with my 74-year-old father, I was surrounded by massive peaks resembling Himalayan giants, we had given Pisco a strong effort, and I was grateful to be alive.

We slept in, getting up to marvel as the sunrise illuminated Huandoy, the giant peak several miles directly east of our high camp. During breakfast, a chinchilla made a surprise visit, investigating us with timid reserve from the camp perimeter.

These odd-looking beasts resemble a cross between a rabbit and a flying squirrel.

After breaking camp, we headed down and out, roping up briefly to clamber up a short, sketchy Class 4 section of loosely cemented material near the top of the moraine. Several hours after departing high camp we made it back to La Curva where a few modern buses awaited tourists returning from Pisco and Laguna 69, a popular day hike in the area. By mid-evening, we were back in Huaraz and reunited with the rest of our family. The following day, Amy, Micah, and I hiked the 3.6-mile round trip to Laguna Churup (14,650 feet) from Pitec (12,700 feet). It seemed easy now that we were all wellacclimatized.

The final part of our trip was spent on the Peruvian coast in Lima, the capital city.

This Spanish colonial capital was a great place to continue our dining adventure of tasty and unique Peruvian cuisine.

We stayed in Miraflores and took a cab to Centro, where we visited the Plaza de Armas and the impressive Catedral, which houses the bones of Pizarro. Lima is home to several world-class museums, including Museo Larc and Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia del Perú, which have carefully documented the archaeological history of Peru. I had thought Perú was completely emptied of Inca gold and silver but a small portion has been saved and is on display, as were artifacts from fascinating cultures pre-dating the Incas. We also visited the Choco Museo, or chocolate museum, where we spent an evening learning all about making chocolate from the Andean cocoa bean. It redefined how much fun a museum could be for an eight-year-old boy.

I am grateful to have spent some time in the Andes with real Peruvians. By sharing their lives, land, mountains, food, culture, and heritage, our new friends taught me something about themselves and, by so doing, taught me something about me that I will always treasure. Viva Perú!

Special thank you to the Mazama Expedition Committee for a climbing grant.

Thank you, also, to fellow Mazamas Gloria Fisher and Ellen Gradison, who provided invaluable assistance and suggestions for Cusco and surrounding environs, and to Eric Hoem and Bob Wilson for assistance on Pisco and the Cordillera Blanca. ¾ 15

Climbing for SCIENCE:

THIS TRIP WAS FUNDED IN PART BY A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT.

Ascents and Research in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru and the Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental of Bolivia

by David Byrne

I

t’s the summer of 2011.

I’m with a group of fellow Mazamas attempting a climb of Chopiqalqui, a 6,345-meter peak in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. At Camp 1, located at 4,900 meters, I watched as a group of scientists and support staff arrived and began assembling monitoring equipment adjacent to camp. It looks like fascinating work and I am immediately intrigued. I’m also impressed that they hauled all that weight up from the road, crossing somewhat tricky terrain to get here. Once they’re settled, I wander over to ask them what they’re investigating. I learn they’re with the American Climber Science Program, initiated by the Deep South Chapter of the American Alpine Club. They’re a group of volunteers studying the mountain and glacial ecosystems of the Cordillera Blanca, and it’s their first year of work.

After a few minutes of discussion I ask the lead scientist, “What’s the most unexpected thing you’ve found with your research here in Peru?”

“Elevated levels of mercury,” he responds.

I flash back to the signs I’ve seen posted in the backcountry of the Olympics and Cascades advising recreationalists not to eat fish caught in the lakes and streams due to their high mercury content.

“Atmospheric mercury,” he continues, “is being deposited from coal burning in the U.S. and China and is collecting here in higher-than-expected concentrations on the glaciers. We also believe there are 16

higher-than-normal concentrations of black carbon collecting on the surface of the snow. They originate from a variety of sources—vehicle exhaust, industrial combustion, large- and small-scale burning, mining (which is prevalent in the mountains of Peru), and coal combustion.

We can’t see the black carbon with the naked eye, but if you aggregate all of the black carbon particles, they add up to a significant source of dark material on the snow surface. This dark material absorbs solar radiation. We believe this is causing the surface snow, and consequently the glaciers, to melt at a more rapid pace than can be attributed to increased atmospheric warming.”

After returning home to Portland, I reflected on my encounter with the scientists in Peru and the changes I have witnessed since I began climbing in the Cascades in the mid 90s, and the considerable amount of time spent working with the Mazamas Advanced Snow and Ice program over the years on the White River and Eliot Glaciers. With my repeated visits to those areas I have observed substantial changes to the glacial environment. Not subtle changes, but dramatic changes. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a scientist, and I understand landscapes are dynamic, but the pace of change does not match my intuitive sense of geologic time. I feel like I’m watching a fast-forwarded movie clip of glacial recession, and the ice continues to move farther away from me. Something is not right and I’ve decided to take action to help understand what I’m witnessing so I can quantify it and understand how to remediate our impact. I’m so committed to this cause that I quit my job, put my belongings in storage, and embarked on a new career path to assist with mountain and climate science research.

Looking at scientific data, the evidence of accelerating climate change is clear.

We hear about increased ice melt in Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic Icecap and the associated consequences. I have experienced it firsthand on my visits to other alpine climbing areas throughout the Cascades, the Canadian Rockies, Nepal, Alaska, Peru and, now, Bolivia. Locally, the Mazamas have been actively engaged on the issue, both within the organization as well as through supporting outreach via the Conservation Committee, most recently with the Chasing Ice presentation and panel discussion in October.

This is where the American Climber Science Program (ACSP) steps in. A volunteer organization under the auspices of the American Alpine Club, it connects scientists with conservation-minded climbers to conduct research in high mountain regions of the world. The ACSP is focused on conservation efforts for our alpine environments through integrated scientific efforts. The program began in Peru because the mountain ranges there contain the highest concentration of tropical glaciers in the world. More specifically, the Cordillera Blanca is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its diversity, and is protected as part of Huascaran National Park. Ongoing research is paramount to maintaining its continued vitality.

The summer of 2013 marked my third visit to the Cordillera Blanca, but my first as an ACSP volunteer. From June through early August, I served as the lead safety instructor, guide and citizen scientist.

During my time in Peru we conducted 27 research, outreach and monitoring projects.

After Peru I would then travel to the Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental of Bolivia for the month of September to climb independently, while exploring opportunities to conduct climate science work there.

I find the idea of working with ACSP in

the Cordillera Blanca of Peru attractive because of the region’s similarities to the Cascades. The Oregon Cascades and Willamette Valley and the Cordillera Blanca and the Rio Santa Valley are similar in land size and configuration. However, this area of Peru has approximately 17 times the glacial coverage of Oregon, but only onesixth our population. The vegetation in the Rio Santa Valley is more akin to the high desert of eastern Oregon, with extensive grasslands. And like Oregon, it is defined by a rainy season and a dry season. During the dry season the population is dependent on glacial discharge for water, and the glaciers serve as water towers during the dry months. Since the 1970s the Cordillera Blanca, like other mountain areas of Peru, has lost approximately 30 percent of its glacial coverage and mass, and they recently passed “peak water.” This is similar in concept to “peak oil.” Without future conservation measures, water consumption will outpace the amount of water the glaciers generate. Conditions are similar in Bolivia.

I arrived in the town of Huaraz, Peru, at the end of May 2013. This would be my home for the next 10 weeks, as all of our trips into the mountains would be based from here. Huaraz, with a population of approximately 130,000, is located at the base of the Cordillera Blanca, or

Chris Cosgriff on the Northwest Ridge of Sajama (6,549m).

The Twins, Parinacota (6,330m) and Pomerata (6,200m), are the peaks to the left. Photo: David Byrne.

White Range. To the east rise spectacular snow- and ice-clad peaks of 5,000 to 6,000 meters, including Huascaran Sur, the sixth-highest peak in the Andes at 6,768 meters. Huaraz is affectionately known as the Chamonix of South America. At an elevation of 3,050 meters it is an excellent place to acclimatize. I was happy to be back.

The Quebrada Ishinca, or Ishinca Valley, would be my first ten-day destination into the Cordillera Blanca with the ACSP. Base camp is at 4,400 meters, and a 6-hour trek from the trailhead. The approach includes a walk along a high mountain bench with distant vistas through pastoral agricultural lands rich with barley and dense groves of quenual trees with their papery, reddish bark. The Ishinca River is our constant companion. It is loud and thunderous in the valley below, especially when we reach the mouth of the valley. As we gain elevation the waters become calm and the river meanders through open grassy meadows all the way to base camp.

Our first few days in camp include mountain skill refreshers, preparation of science projects, acclimatization hikes, feasting on the excellent food prepared under the guidance of our experienced cooks, and enjoying the scenery. The first climb was the East Ridge of Urus Este (5,420 meters). The unique position of this mountain provided a fine panorama of the adjacent peaks and an overview of routes we would take on future climbs.

The following day we explored the area up valley, including an abandoned Lakes Commission work camp.

These work camps were established throughout the Cordillera Blanca in the 1950s as part of a disaster prevention program to control glacial lake outburst floods.

Numerous floods caused by the

breaching of the terminal moraine dams have damaged property and caused the loss of life over the years, even as recently as 2010. Many of the glacial lakes have increased in size over the last century, due to rising water levels from accelerated glacial melting. In some cases the moraine dams are not strong enough to resist the pressure from the increased water and they rupture. Or sudden events, such as massive ice discharge from glaciers or ice falls above the lakes can quickly inundate the lake and overrun the top of the dam, causing it to fail and release an enormous amount of water. These events can have catastrophic impacts on the populations living in the valley below.

The approach to our next climb, Ishinca (5,530 meters), would pass by one of these lakes, Laguna Ishinca, where we observed a large outflow culvert that was constructed to maintain a controlled volume of water.

Once past the lake we gained the toe of the glacier. I had climbed Ishinca in 2010 with a group of Mazamas, and noticed that in only a few short years the point where we accessed the glacier had receded.

Conditions on the upper mountain were in great shape, and we completed a traverse of the peak in a day from base camp. A few days later we wrapped up our work in this valley with an ascent to a col beneath the dramatic peak of Tocllaraju, placing an atmospheric dust collection device there for retrieval upon our return later in the summer.

Next on the itinerary was an eight-day visit to the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca, home to the famous needle of Cayesh.

This extensive valley is quite diverse, with numerous and varied flora and fauna.

It is heavily grazed, like many others in the range, and the impacts are becoming more pronounced. Our first climb was Andavite (5,518 meters), which maintains a prominent position at the head of the valley where the main river diverges into two smaller valleys. It’s a superb climb on a rarely visited peak, and it appeared we were the first to climb it this season. Snow coverage on the upper reaches has receded, based on images provided to us by a local guidebook author, and more rock is now exposed, making for tricky access. The highlight of the climb was a condor fly-by during the descent, a rare sight indeed.

For the second outing in this area we would split into two teams and explore different parts of the range. My team

continued on next page 17

Climbing for Science, continued from previous page ascended the glaciated slopes to the summit of Maparaju (5,326 meters), returned to high camp, and then completed a physically demanding west-to-east traverse over the crest of the range, descending into the wild Rio Rurec valley for a four-day research trip.

The east side of the range has very little grazing and overall usage, and the valley we descended was much healthier and wilder than anywhere we visited on the west side of the range. After much negotiation and bargaining, we secured a 5-hour ride back to town, which included traveling along a small portion of the historic Inca Road that extends from Ecuador to Argentina.

After a few days of rest we traveled north to the Quebrada Llanganuco, one of the most impressive valleys in the Cordillera Blanca, encircled by eight 6,000-meter peaks. Our goals here were to perform repair work on a weather equipment tower, conduct research on several glacial lakes, and climb Pisco (5,752 meters) and Yanapaccha (5,460 meters). It was here that we encountered our first run-in with altitude sickness at the 4,650-meter base camp. A guided client was suffering from exhaustion, dehydration, mild hypothermia, and a severe headache after a climb of Pisco. We rendered treatment and she was able to descend under her own power the following morning. It was a healthy reminder to our team about the necessity of proper acclimatization. After a second day at base camp, I led the high mountain work on Pisco, and summited the peak on two separate occasions with different teams.

Pisco’s popularity is well deserved. The setting is unrivaled in the Cordillera Blanca, for it is surrounded by ten 6,000-meter peaks, and the terrain is quite varied and interesting.

Scientists and climbers were arriving and departing throughout the summer, and I looked forward to a return trip to the Ishinca Valley on our next outing, when I would have the opportunity to share its beauty with a new group of fellow volunteers. We conducted follow-up research and additional data-gathering, and the trip provided an acclimatization opportunity for those new to the team.

Accompanying us was a group of three high school students interested in earth sciences. They joined us for a day trip to the Tocllaraju col, where we retrieved the collection device we had placed there several weeks earlier, and also assisted us 18

with several other research projects. The next day our climbing team of six returned to col camp, followed by a successful ascent the following day of the northwest ridge of Tocllaraju (6,032 meters). It was my second climb of this peak, with the first in 2010. I found that conditions on the upper mountain have evolved dramatically in the last few years and it is now a more challenging climb, but still just as enjoyable, owing to several new steeper and longer snow and ice pitches.

The next outing would be a special one.

The director of Huascaran National Park and his two young sons where scheduled to join us for a climb of Vallunaraju (5,686 meters). We were excited to share with him the research underway, and expose his kids to the science work and adventurous life of alpine climbing. Vallunaraju is only 14 kilometers from town as the crow flies and is easy to identify from Huaraz by its distinctive, precipitous snow-clad slopes.

Interestingly, Rima Rima (5,023 meters) just to our south on the opposite side of the valley, was once snow-clad in the summer, according to our camp cook. Now there is no snow—a clear sign of change. A team of us ascended a few days early to establish high camp and climb the peak to check conditions on the route. Everything was in shape for our guests, and the second summit climb went as well as the first, with the director and one of his sons touching the top.

Our time in Peru was coming to a close.

For a final adventure three of us set out for Huascaran (6,768 meters) to conduct reconnaissance for future research and climbing opportunities. The approach to the glacier was one of the most challenging we had completed so far, perhaps because we opted to complete it in a day from the road and the route-finding is not especially clear. But the views were spectacular. We spent the first night at Moraine Camp and ascended to Camp 1 (5,400 meters) the next morning. High winds, which are typical on this peak, kept us at Camp 1 for two nights, and due to schedules, we needed to return to Huaraz.

After spending 10 weeks in the Cordillera Blanca, with nine successful summits and a traverse of the range all in the name of science, I traveled from Huaraz to Lima and caught a flight to La Paz, Bolivia. It was my first visit to this country, and I immediately realized how distinctly different it is from

Peru from a cultural perspective, even though they are neighbors. My two primary goals while in Bolivia were to investigate the potential of expanding the research efforts of the ACSP to the high mountains there, and to gather dust and black carbon samples for a scientist with the ACSP. The mountain ranges in Bolivia are not as compact as those in Peru. However, just like Peru, they have experienced a 30 percent reduction in glacial mass and coverage over the last 40 years, and recently experienced their first glacial lake outburst flood. There are four ranges in Bolivia, with 11 peaks over 6,000 meters, and an astounding 1,000 more peaks topping the 5,000 meter mark.

My good friend and climbing partner, Chris Cosgriff from Seattle, joined me for the month to explore the endless opportunities here. And a fellow volunteer from Peru, PeiYin Lew, also joined us for a few weeks.

La Paz has a population of more than 2.3 million, and is an excellent place to acclimatize. We stayed in the historic central part of town, at around 3,600 meters. The elevation of La Paz varies from 3,200 meters in the high rent district of Zona Sur to 4,100 meters at El Alto up on the Altiplano. In addition to exploring town, we spent a few days visiting one of the islands at Lake Titicaca (“the Island of the Sun”), which in Inca lore is the birthplace of the sun god. The tranquility provided a welcome respite from the noise and bustle of La Paz. There are no vehicles on the island. However, the entire island is linked by a trail network and includes some fascinating Inca and pre-Inca ruins. It is interesting to note that the lake level has dropped almost one meter in the past 15 years due to a reduced rainy season caused by changes in weather patterns, along with reduced input from the shrinking glaciers that also feed the lake.

For our first outing we decided to climb the northwest ridge of Sajama (6,549 meters). Located in the Cordillera Occidental along the border of Chile and a 5-hour drive from La Paz, it is the highest peak in Bolivia. It’s an extinct glaciated volcano and lies in an exceptionally harsh and remote part of the Altiplano. The jumping off point is the sparsely populated village of Sajama, which feels like a town out of the Wild West. We obtained permits along with the services of an arriero and her two mules to carry part of our gear for the four-hour walk to base camp under the

The mountain ranges in Bolivia are not as compact as those in Peru. However, just like Peru, they have experienced a 30 percent reduction in glacial mass and coverage over the last 40 years, and recently experienced their first glacial lake outburst flood.

West Face. We shared the arriero with one other party and two small herds of vicunas, an antelope-like camelid. The following day we ascended to high camp (5,450 meters) at the base of the perennial snowfield.

An early start the following morning took us up steep scree, and finally, to an enjoyable snow gully and ridge traverse to the snow dome. Here I had my first experience with nieve penitentes. The etymology of the phrase, as well as how they develop, is quite interesting, and we discovered each of these 18- to 36-inch snow spikes can certainly slow progress and be quite laborious to navigate. We summited Sajama after several hours on the route and the views were stupendous, extending south into Chile and north to the Cordillera Real. The route is similar in character to one of the west side routes on Mt. Hood. I gathered snow samples at the summit and on the return to high camp.

Later that afternoon we descended to Base Camp and the following day we hiked out to the village and returned to La Paz, with our first successful Bolivian summit all to ourselves.

For our second peak we climbed Huayana Potosi (6,088 meters), which is relatively close to La Paz and is accessed by a twohour taxi drive from town. We would climb it in a day from the road and reserved a space at the trailhead refugio so we could catch a few hours of sleep prior to an early morning departure. Our intended route was an ascent up the East Face, but once en route, we were stymied by weather and deep snow and elected to climb it by the Normal Route. It was just as much fun.

Despite the advertised popularity of this peak we had the summit to ourselves.

The climb included a long ascent through fascinating glacial terrain with unlimited vistas in all directions. The route finishes on a steep snow, ice and rock catwalk.

A glacial lake below the South Face of Pisco (5,752m). Photo: David Byrne.

The summit provides views of the expansive development around La Paz, the Altiplano to the west, adjacent peaks in the Cordillera Real, and the peaks of the Cordillera Apolobamba to the north.

The final outing would take us to the north end of the Cordillera Real, where we would attempt the southwest ridge of Illampu (6,368 meters), the fourth-highest peak in the country. It is considered to be the most challenging 6,000-meter peak in Bolivia and sees very little traffic. We planned for five days and four nights. A full day of driving led us to our trailhead camp at Lakathiya (4,000 meters). The next morning we ascended a 4,900-meter pass and dropped down to base camp at Aqua Calientes (4,600 meters), which was covered with an unusual amount of snow for this time of year. I was under the impression that this is Bolivia’s dry season, but in our four weeks here there had been several atypical and significant storm events. The following day we ascended cliff bands, polished slabs and old moraines to reach high camp at the toe of the glacier (4,900 meters) and prepared for our summit attempt.

After a chilly, middle-of-the-night meal, we departed and soon gained the glacier, ascending through the lower icefall to the glacier basin above. Here we began to experience low clouds and light snow. Reduced visibility can be a little disorienting in the dark, especially while negotiating crevasses. As the sky began to lighten we reached the base of the headwall of Illampu, which provides access to the southwest ridge. We reconfigured the rope for simul-climbing and negotiated a steep, convoluted ice pitch through the bergschrund. Once above it we simulclimbed 300 meters of 45-65-degree-slopes to the knife-edged southwest ridge. The

exposure on both sides of the ridge was incredible. We ascended it for several hundred meters, sometimes steepening to 50 degrees, to reach the broadening summit dome. The snow at this elevation was quite dry and unconsolidated, as expected, and made for slow going. It was also surprisingly cold, even while wearing our down parkas.

It felt colder than any of my other climbs this season. We negotiated a spectacular crevasse to access the corniced summit.

On top, we admired the view through the clouds, collected snow samples, and headed down our ascent route. The headwall required nine rappels, and we discovered the nieve penitentes could be shaped to work very well as bollards, so we didn’t leave any gear. We collected a few more snow samples in the basin and returned to high camp. The following morning we descended to Lakathiya and returned to La Paz. Our travels in the Bolivian mountains were diverse and rewarding.

It was an amazing season of friendships, collaboration, introspection, new landscapes, and research. From a personal perspective, I was extremely happy to achieve twelve successful summit climbs over three months, and to share the alpine experience with others, especially in the context of science. Collectively, we were climbing for a cause. The entire group of ACSP volunteers gathered a rich diversity of data related to conditions in the mountains, which will continue to help shape our understanding of the mountain environments in South America and our interaction with them.

A special thanks to all my mentors, climbing partners, others that have inspired me, and the Mazama Expedition Committee, for helping to make my dream a reality. ž

19

ITALIAN DOLOMITES:

Italian Dolomites Outing May 31–June 15, 2014

WHY NOT JUST NOT do IT? I

by Ryan Christie

n the first two weeks of June 2014, I led a group of eight Mazamas on an “out of country experience” to northern Italy.

The idea came after visiting the Dolomites for three days on a tour of Italy in 2012. I knew I had to go back and spend more time there—a lot more time. I was so impressed with the beauty, the culture, the people, the history and the climbing, that I decided I needed to share it with other Mazamas, so I started planning an official outing.

Over the course of the next year, I formulated a plan for where to stay, what to see, and most importantly, what to climb in the Dolomites. Next I applied to make it an outing. Once I had a team of people committed to going, we spent weekends hiking and climbing together in order to get to know one another before the trip. Plus, that gave me a chance to see the skill level and experience of each member. I got the team out to the Powerline Point Trail in The Gorge to practice using via ferrata technique, but more on that later.

During the last few days of May this year, team members flew into Milan to explore the city and surroundings leading up to our launch date. On the eve of Sunday, June 1st, the entire team gathered at our hotel near Milan to discuss the plan for the next two weeks. In attendance were Jennifer Van Houten, Erika Markel, Lisa Ripps, Michael Hynes, Bill Dewsnap, Bob Vreeland, assistant leader Kevin Clark, and myself.

Monday morning we loaded everyone

20

in the van for the first time, which proved an interesting challenge. When I rented the van, the website stated it was a ninepassenger vehicle with room for two pieces of luggage and two duffels. The space was extremely tight and my skills as a luggage packer were quickly tested and became expertly honed over the next week of travel. Eventually, we got everyone in, along with all of their stuff, and set out for Arco.

Situated on Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) at the foot of the Dolomites, Arco is the epicenter for world-class climbing in Italy, possibly even install of Europe. Rock competitions are held here year-round. The town has a climbing stadium—essentially an outdoor, covered vertical playground. The plasticfilled walls rise 50 feet and are overhung at many different angles. Five hundred plus feet of vertical cliff face topped by an ancient fortress, Castle Arco provides a backdrop. Arco is a small town surrounded by other small lake towns. Tiny Arco may have more climbing shops per capita than any other city in Italy—or the world!

Originally, I planned a focused climbing trip. However, many of the people who signed up for the outing were not as interested in climbing as in seeing the Dolomites and experiencing the mountains. Therefore, the trip focus shifted to via ferrata.

Via ferrata (VF) means “iron way” or “iron path.” A via ferrata features iron cables anchored into the mountain to create a hand line for clipping oneself into with a ferrata kit attached to a climbing harness. On a VF, you

may encounter ladders bolted to the cliff face or stemples, which are steps made out of rebar and glued into the rock. We also crossed Tyrolean bridges. These bridges are comprised of three cables—one cable for each hand and a cable for your feet to walk “tightrope-style” across. If you haven’t seen these, do a web search and all kinds of cool videos will pop up with these vertical pathways of extreme exposure. It proved a very safe way to belay oneself across steep, exposed ground while mountain walking to the summits of these amazing peaks.

The Dolomites have via ferrata everywhere. They range in difficulty ratings from 1a to 5c. The number denotes difficulty from walking on an exposed

Erika Markel and Lisa Ripps on a via ferrata.

Photo: Ryan Christie.

Sass di Putia (Peterkofel).

Photo: Ryan Christie.

trail (1) to overhanging, strenuous 5.10 climbing (5). The letter grade refers to how committing it is, ranging from a couple of hours with many escape routes to a full day outing of 10 to 12 hours with little to no escape from the route. Our group tended to be comfortable climbing in the middle of the ratings.

After three action-packed days of climbing and exploring in Arco, we headed for the picture-postcard town of Antermoia. Following winding, one-lane mountain roads into the Dolomites, we finally reached this quaint, Austrianinfluenced town, where we would climb one of the most amazing looking mountains: Sass de Putia, also known as Peitlerkofel. This region is mostly recognized as South Tyrol, instead of Italy.

Ever since the Mountain War of WWI, this northern corner of Italy has been made up of an interesting mix of Italians and Austrians, both of whom prefer to be known as Tyroleans, and neither of which care to recognize governance from Italy or Austria. As a result, most of the town names, mountain names, and even the names on mountain passes have both an Italian and an Austrian name. It makes for larger road signs, busier maps and thicker guide books. It also makes it harder to navigate if you are trying to get

somewhere or climb something and your guidebook only uses one set of names.

Our Sass de Putia climb took us from the trailhead around the west side into the snow and up the back side. It went from a snow slog, to steep snow, to rock climbing on a cool and efficient via ferrata to the summit. On the descent we chose to circumnavigate the entire mountain and return to the trailhead around the east side of the mountain. This made for a long 12-mile adventure but the scenery made it well worth it.

The next day we headed to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Cortina hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics and is now a mecca for winter sports enthusiasts from all over Europe. It is a fancy, welcoming, boutiquestyle town in a valley surrounded by towering peaks. In a word: spectacular!

Any outdoor activity one can think of can be planned and completed from this base camp so we booked five nights to maximize options. Together we hiked a mid-level VF starting at Passo Falzareggo (the Falzareggo pass) and climbed up the south face of Lagazuoi. Due to the high snow level at 9,000 feet, we were unable to finish the route and had to backtrack for safety reasons. This became a theme in our trip, keeping us from conquering some of our high mountain objectives.

On the return, we discovered some caves carved into the mountain during the war and explored them. We found an entire barracks built inside the mountain with lots of passages and windows where gunmen sat to defend the pass. With extra time after descending, we spent the afternoon touring the Mountain War Museum.

The next day, Saturday, June 7th, we drove the narrow one-lane road to Cinque Torre (Five Towers) and spent the day climbing and hiking. The highlight for me was leading a four-pitch 5.7 trad classic up stellar rock on one of the towers, followed by a free hanging rappel.

On Sunday, the group split to pursue multiple activities. Some went shopping, explored town or just enjoyed a rest day.

My wife Erika and I rented road bikes and bicycled three passes of the Giro d’Italia bike race. Kevin led a team up the Col Rosa, a 3b VF that takes you right up the nose of a mountain at the head of the valley. It includes over a thousand feet of extremely exposed climbing (up to 5.6) on a VF strung straight up the arête all the way to the summit.

On Monday, Lisa Ripps and I had Kevin drop us at the trailhead for the Punta Fiames tower. Over the course of the next twelve hours the two of us climbed

continued on next page 21

Italian Dolomites, continued from previous page

Italian Dolomites, continued from previous page 15 pitches (up to 5.8) directly up the face and to the summit. Somewhere near the mid-point up the wall, dark clouds drifted in from the west and treated us to a light show. This was the first time in my climbing career that I found myself stuck on a wall in the midst of a lightning storm. However, we were committed since reversing our approach up the wall would have been incredibly difficult.

Fortunately, we climbed through without getting electrocuted. What an epic experience! The rest of the team met us at the trailhead as we descended just before dark, bringing us pizza and wine. They had spent the day hiking and doing a couple of easier VFs in a deep, narrow river valley up the road.

On Tuesday we boarded the van and went to see Tre Cima di Lavaredo (Dre Zinnen), one of the most photographed peaks in Italy. The weather was perfect and it was a great day for an exploration hike. We attempted a 3b VF but were once again foiled by snow on the route and were forced to backtrack.

On and off throughout our stay at Hotel Natale in Cortina, I had been asking our concierge about the viability of doing a certain VF in the Lagazuoi Tunnels, a network of tunnels climbing up through Lagazuoi Mountain and overlooking Falzareggo Pass. To approach the VF, we would take the gondola up to the top of the mountain, descend off the top to the tunnel entrance and enter through a locked door. The next two hours would be spent descending a series of VF’s down through the steep, dark tunnels. However, the point at which the tunnels exit was snowbound and our descent back to the 22

car would have been on steep, treacherous snow.

The first time I asked him about being able to climb the route he said, “It’s not possible, too much snow.”

I then asked him to find out if the tunnels were open and he said he would.

The next day I asked again and he said he thought there was too much snow.

“But are the tunnels open?” I asked again. My thought was that we could at least explore the tunnels and exit back out the top and return via the gondola, skipping the snow descent.

He said he didn’t know but would check again.

Finally on the last day, I approached the front desk, told him we were heading up to Lagazuoi and asked if the tunnels were open.

With exasperation in his voice he asked, “Why not just not do it?!?”

And voila, we had a theme for our trip!

Wednesday morning we left Cortina and drove through some beautiful mountain towns and over a couple of mountain passes to reach Canazei. Canazei is base camp for climbers wanting to summit The Marmolada, the highest point in the Dolomites and Italy’s highest mountain: a perfect destination for a Mazama climb team.

On the way to Canazei, we stopped to take the gondola to the top of Lagazuoi.

After a short walk to the summit for pictures and glorious views, we set out to find the tunnel entrance. Sure enough, the door to the tunnel entrance was closed and locked.

After our adventure on Lagazuoi, we continued to the Sella Pass to climb Col Rodella, a 3a VF. Some of the team backed off and went back to the bar at the trailhead when the thunder and lightning came a little too close for comfort. The rest of us climbed it as quickly as possible so we could summit and get back before the storm intensified.

The next day, Lisa, Bob and I spent the day climbing The Marmolada. This climb delivered every kind of climbing experience we could have imagined. It started as a long snow slog, getting steeper as we went. Eventually we had to rope up for crevasses and we stayed roped up as we navigated around a bergschrund and onto a steep rock section that was protected by a VF cable. The climbing wasn’t hard--5.3

decision to rappel over the crevasse when we got there due to some melt-out that exposed Left: Michael Hynes and Lisa Ripps with Tre Cima di Lavaredo (Dre Zinnen). Photo: additional Ryan Christie. Middle: The group in and on the sign for the town of Corvara. From left: cracks we Bill Dewsnap, Bob Vreeland, Ryan Christie, Jennifer Van Houten, Kevin Clark, Lisa Ripps, Erika Markel. Photo: Michael Hynes. Right: Rifugio with Tre Cima di Lavaredo hadn’t noticed behind. Photo: Ryan Christie. on the way up.

By the time we or 5.4--and we made it to the ridge without got to the parking lot, the rest of the team much trouble. Once on the ridge, however, was waiting, the skies had cleared and it it was tricky to put the crampons back on was hot and sunny again. While the three due to the drop offs on both sides. I had to of us were on The Marmolada, the rest of sit in the snow straddling the ridge with the team had gone back to Col Rodella to one foot hanging off of the east side and do the VF in better weather and to spend one foot hanging off of the west side. In more time exploring the Sella Pass. addition, I had to clip my pack to my waist, The next day we rose early again to and hold it between my legs, so it wouldn’t catch a bus up to Rifugio Stella Alpina. slide straight down the top of the ridge. I The single lane road is closed to tourist decided that on the descent, I would down traffic. The bus dropped us off and we climb the rock section in my crampons so started hiking. The path took us up to and I wouldn’t have to deal with this again. past the Vajolet Towers, a rock climbing The weather had been pretty decent and objective for me and the trip. However, we summitted under partly cloudy skies. climbing just was not in the cards that Once we started back down, however, the day. We continued on up to the pass and clouds moved in, the temperature dropped Rifugio Passo Principe, a small hostel and and it started hailing as we were downrestaurant in a beautiful setting at the top climbing the VF. We decided to rappel the of a narrow valley. route since it was getting slippery and we Finally, it was Friday and time to leave had a bergschrund to cross at the bottom the mountains. We packed up the van one of the rock. I think we made the right

last time and drove to Bolzano, the capital city of Tyrol. We spent the day in Bolzano as tourists. We visited Otzi the Iceman at the Museum of Anthropology; the Salewa World Headquarters, where everyone did a bit of shopping for gear we can’t find in the States; and the Messner Mountain Museum in the family home of Reinhold Messner. The home is a 12th century castle and its size and all-encompassing museum could easily take a day to explore.

From Bolzano we drove to Milan and our last night in Italy. Two weeks in Italy went by in a flash and I wasn’t ready to come home. I would have gladly stayed for another week ... or two.

Every day of the outing was actionpacked and filled with adventure, grand scenery and great food. Thanks to an abundance of snow and unfinished objectives, I will definitely be going back.

Italy is a country full of amazing sights, history and beauty. It is inhabited by cultured and friendly people and is a topnotch destination for any tourist. In my opinion, the Dolomites are the reason to go--but visit as a climber first, tourist second! ʯʯ Participants: Ryan Christie, leader; Kevin Clark, assistant leader; Bill Dewsnap, Michael Hynes, Erika Markel, Lisa Ripps, Jennifer Van Houten, Bob Vreeland. ¾

23

Glacier Monitoring in the National Parks of Washington State:

A Virtual Field Experience

by Frank D. Granshaw, Department of Geology, Portland State University and Portland Community College

N

early 37 percent of all the glaciers in the United States are found in Washington State. Over half the combined area of these are found in three national parks: Olympic, North Cascades, and Mt. Rainier. Consequently the parks are not only places where millions of people go each year to enjoy and learn about the landscapes that these glaciers are a major part of, but are also critical sites for glacier-climate research.

Ideally, national parks help visitors understand and appreciate natural systems by providing a direct experience of the resources within their boundaries.

For those of us who spend time in the high country, the importance of glaciers as a water and ecological resource is something we can readily experience firsthand. We are able to spend the time and effort required to get to places where we can stop and contemplate the immensity, beauty and history of these glaciers with our own senses.

But for many visitors to mountainous wilderness, glaciers are largely abstractions—high, inaccessible patches of ice and snow clinging to distant peaks. Therefore, the critical research work taking place on them goes largely unnoticed.

In 2013, a small group of researchers from Portland State University, with funding from the Mazamas, partnered with National Park Service staff to bring glacier exploration to anyone with access to a computer. The result of this project is an on-line resource that has at its core a form of virtual reality that gives visitors the ability to explore park glaciers in ways similar to actually being on the ice. Like Google’s Street View, online users can “walk” from place to place on these glaciers, examine features of interest up close, and access video and field

24

data gathered by research crews. The application currently being developed is aimed at a general audience (park visitors, the general public, and secondary and college students). It is being built so that users can browse the environment on their own computers or on visitor center kiosks.

It is also being built with features that would be useful to teachers and students.

Eventually we hope to develop a second pathway for researchers to archive and link field data to interactive ground-view panoramas and virtual globes. This second pathway would provide researchers with a way to track changes in glaciers over time, and present data and field activities in their geographic and environmental context—a facet that should be particularly useful for presenting work to non-glaciologists.

The application uses Google Tour Builder (a Google Earth-like digital story board) to “fly” users to and around eight glaciers being monitored regularly by the National Park Service and the US Geological Survey. This framework also provides users with background information about the glaciers, the major monitoring activities taking place on them, and changes that have occurred

within them over the past century, all through links to a variety of interactive maps, photographs, video, and park and research group websites. For four of these glaciers, users can take a virtual “walkabout” that provides them with a glimpse of each that resembles a walk from terminus to high glacier.

Presently the basic architecture of the environment and the four walkabouts are in place. Still to come are visitor and student trials to test the current architecture and provide information for creating ancillary educational materials.

The application is currently available for viewing by invitation only, but we are expecting a public release in spring 2015.

Some basic information about glaciers and glacier monitoring in Washington national parks that appears in the virtual environment Washington is the second most glaciated state in the United States (after Alaska). With 3,101 glaciers having a combined area of 450 kilometers2, Washington has 37 percent of the glaciers in the contiguous United States or nearly 65 percent of the combined glacial

Silver Glacier in the northern half of North Cascades National Park. From this frame the user can fly around the glacier, zoom in to inspect it more closely, or click on the colored outlines to investigate changes in the shape and area of the glacier as it has retreated. The map on the right was produced by the Google Earth component of Google Tour Builder (©Google Inc.). F. Granshaw produced the glacial extents using historical aerial imagery and data derived from USNPS surveys of index glaciers in the North Cascades.

THIS RESEARCH WAS FUNDED IN PART BY A MAZAMA RESEARCH GRANT.

area of the lower 48. These are all located in three mountain ranges: the Olympics, southern Cascades, and North Cascades. The majority of these glaciers (55 percent) are located inside the boundaries of Washington’s three national parks.

During the last glacial maximum some 20,000 years ago, many of these glaciers were part of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet, a large glacial sheet that covered the western mountains of North America from Alaska to Northern Washington. As the last ice age ended and the ice retreated, the glaciers shrank, becoming a collection of cirques and small valley glaciers clinging to the slopes of volcanoes like Mt. Rainier, or rugged non-volcanic terrains such as in the North Cascades.

While glaciers in Washington were observed as early as the late 1700s, it was not until the late 19th century that the first monitoring took place, with studies of Mt. Rainier’s glaciers by Samuel Emmons and Israel Russell. In addition to surveying the glaciers of Rainier, Russell compiled a regional survey of glaciers in the United States that included glaciers in other parts of Washington.

Beyond the maps compiled in the early 20th century by the U.S. Geological Survey and surveys and studies of larger more accessible glaciers such as the Nisqually Glacier on Mt. Rainier, monitoring of glaciers in the state was sporadic until the International Geophysical Year in 1958.

As a part of this international scientific effort, the USGS and University of Washington researchers began regular monitoring of the South Cascade and Blue Glaciers in the North Cascades and Olympic Ranges. These programs studied glacial retreat, volume and mass changes, the mechanics of glacial flow, and the relationship of glaciers to climate change. In addition to regular ground-based monitoring of these and other prominent glaciers on Mt. Rainier, periodic inventories of glaciers in the national parks were conducted using aerial photography for the 1950s, 1980s, 1990s, and early 21st century by a number of USGS and university researchers. An important addition to these efforts is our current establishment of a network of regularly monitored index glaciers in the North Cascades National Park. This network of index glaciers is currently expanding to include glaciers in the two other parks of Washington State.

Related glacier research and education resources on the web. ▶▶ Glacier Monitoring Program, North Cascades national Park—US National Park Service: www. nps.gov/noca/naturescience/glacial-massbalance1.htm

The location of the national parks in Washington and the glaciers that are part of the USNPS glaciermonitoring program. Screen shot and the photograph of Mt. Rainier above the frame title taken by F. Granshaw. The map on the right was produced by the Google Earth component of Google Tour Builder (©Google Inc.)

Part of the virtual walkabout of Blue Glacier. In this mode, the user can look in all directions, move from viewpoint to viewpoint, read field notes taken by the survey team, and inspect features of interest.

USNPS staff Michael Larabee took the photos for this walkabout. The map is derived from a Google Map plug-in that enables the user to move from place to place in the virtual environment.

▶▶ Glaciers of Washington—Portland State University, Department of Geology: glaciers.us/glacierswashington ▶▶ Measuring Glaciers—North Coast and Cascades Science Learning Network: www.nwparkscience.org/node/991 ▶▶ Mt. Rainier National Park, Glaciers and Glacier Change—USNPS and PSU: www.glaciers.pdx.edu/Projects/ LearnAboutGlaciers/MRNP/Atlas00. html

The cast of characters (acknowledgments): ▶▶ Jon Riedel (staff geologist) and Michael Larabee (physical science technician)—North Cascades National Park. ▶▶ Andrew Fountain—Department of Geology, Portland State University ▶▶ Elias Brown—PSU/PCC student intern with the IDES (Increasing Diversity in the Earth Sciences) program at Oregon State University. ¾ 25

Kids k c o R on South

Sister adventure. Time would tell who would rise to the challenge.

by Eric Einspruch and Bob Murphy

S

tars shone brightly as our team of seven adults and four kids, ages 8–9, woke at 4:30 a.m. to climb South Sister. The climb team was built around Sam O’Leary (9), Luca Einspruch (9), Josie Blanke (8), and Ruby Kofron (8)—the “South Sister Four.” This was the capstone activity for many 26

events that had occurred over the year, beginning in Christmas 2013 when Sam O’Leary expressed his interest in climbing the mountain while viewing it from a ski lift on a bluebird day at Mt. Bachelor. In response to Sam’s goal, stepdad and climb leader Bob Murphy developed a series of progressive training challenges designed to prepare kids for a South Sister

The South Sister climb was especially significant to those of us on it who had seen the formation, growth, and development of the Mazamas’ first full new committee in over a decade: the Families Committee. The interest in family-oriented activities was clearly evident during an initial concept meeting held at Hopworks Urban Brewery in June 2013. Over 50 adults and kids met to find out about the possibility of Mazama family activities, and our enthusiasm (and noise level) was so great that we set aside the agenda and flipchart and instead let people comment directly and spend time meeting one another. The overriding question of whether or not there was interest in family activities had been answered.

This initial meeting was followed by organizing meetings and ultimately, official recognition by Executive Council as a formal Mazama committee in December 2013. Since then, the committee has provided family-oriented activities and educational programs that encourage youth of all ages to be involved in the Mazamas, adult members with children to remain involved in the Mazamas, and new families to join and commit to the Mazamas. The committee plans and oversees family activities; trains and manages family activities leaders; and governs the policies and procedures that guide the family events. These activities help families make outdoor adventure

part of their family narrative.

Families’ activities have included hiking, climbing and backpacking, while the committee has worked on infrastructure development (including subcommittee formation, web site development and working closely with the committee’s Executive Council liaison).

The events supported by the Families Committee have led to kids developing both mountaineering skills and friendships. All of the kids who were accepted for the South Sister climb spent a lot of time training, learning and having fun together over the course of the previous year. And as a group we have learned that our kids are more excited to participate in Mazama activities and willing to stick to a goal when other kids are there too.

Many of the kids who climbed South Sister were part of the Families Committee inaugural hike led by Eric Einspruch on April 13, 2014, when 18 participants hiked four miles in Tryon Creek State Park, a gem located on the south side of Portland.

This turned out to be the perfect first hike towards their goal of climbing South Sister.

We have learned it is best to start small and keep things simple. The hike was only a few hours long and we were done by noon, a great way to start breaking in new hiking shoes, getting used to carrying backpacks, understanding the importance of breaks and good snacks, and becoming familiar with trail etiquette. Although it was an easy in-town hike, it was still enough of a hike to realize we all needed more training, parents included! Several of the kids also participated in an urban hike with a tram ride led by Charles Blanke—a great in-town conditioning hike with nearly 500 feet of elevation gain, and a free tram ride to boot!

Despite many of the kids meeting each other for the first time, and having just hiked over 6.5 miles with 2,800 feet of elevation gain with appropriately loaded backpacks, they played as though they were old friends: scrambling over the boulder fields and playing in the snow on a summery August day.

Far left: Hiking on Dog Mountain, June 2014. Photo: Eric Einspruch. Top left: Ruby and Henry Kofron. Photo: Henry Kofron. Top right: South Sister Trailhead, August 2014. Back: Jan Martens, Henry Kofron, Bob Murphy, Andrea McKee, Eric Einspruch, Corinna Kupelwieser. Front: Anna Martens, Nick Martens, Josie Blanke, Ruby Kofron, Luca Einspruch, Sam O’Leary. Photo: Eric Einspruch.

As the summer approached, the Families Committee stepped up the conditioning. Bob Murphy organized three conditioning hikes in the scenic Columbia Gorge for kids to get in shape for the South Sister climb (as well as other mountain climbs through the summer). First, in May, the kids hiked to Wahkeena Springs (led

by Bob Murphy). This hike was 3.7 miles long with 1,500 feet of elevation gain, and provided an adventurous next step after the Tryon Creek hike. Next, in June the kids hiked Dog Mountain (led by Bill Stein). This 6.9-mile hike gains 2,800 feet of elevation rather steeply from the trailhead, and provided a notable opportunity for the kids to become accustomed to travelling uphill. The weather on Dog Mountain was clear and sunny, affording spectacular views up and down the Columbia River.

Despite being exhausted on the hike, many of the kids found enough energy to run and play on the beautiful meadow outside of Skamania Lodge where many of the families stopped for dinner afterward.

Finally, in July, the kids completed their

training by hiking Larch Mountain (led

by Bill Stein). This 14-mile hike gains 4,100 feet, and provided an opportunity for the kids to increase their endurance.

The hikers also learned the importance of setting and following a turnaround time, even though it meant they were just shy of their goal when they had to turn around.

Anyone who has hiked Dog Mountain or Larch Mountain knows that these are significant undertakings in and of themselves, and that those who had come this far could already be pleased with their accomplishments.

To complement the conditioning hikes, the Families Committee offered a three-part backpacking series led by Eric Einspruch. The first part of the series included a Saturday morning orientation at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). During the orientation participants learned about trip planning, backpacking gear, and camp craft skill. This was accomplished through

continued on next page 27

Kids, continued from previous page discussion, show and tell, and a mock trip departing from the MMC auditorium, setting up camp in the lawn on the south side of the building, and then returning to the auditorium. Next in the series was a one-night backpacking trip to Twin Lakes on the southeast side of Mt. Hood.

The group hiked the almost 2.5 miles in, set up camp, hiked around, played in the lake, enjoyed each other’s company around a campfire, and hiked out the next day.

Finally we had a two-night backpacking trip to Elk Cove and Wy’east Basin on the north side of Mt. Hood. Because of scheduling challenges, we divided into two groups, each with its own qualified leader and assistant. The first group departed on Friday, hiked the five miles to camp at Elk Cove, hiked the 1.5 miles to Wy’east Basin (plus a side trip to Dollar Lake) on Saturday, and then hiked back to the

Group at camp on South Sister. Photo: Bob Murphy.

vehicles on Sunday. The second group began their trip on Saturday, hiking all the way to Wy’east Basin from the trailhead, and then all the way back out on Sunday.

Perhaps the most spectacular aspect of the trip, even more so than the close up views of wildflowers and the north side of Mt. Hood, was the cheers and laughter of the kids as the second group reached the Wy’east Basin camp already established by the first group. Despite many of the kids meeting each other for the first time, and having just hiked over 6.5 miles with 2,800 feet of elevation gain with appropriately loaded backpacks, they played as though they were old friends: scrambling over the boulder fields and playing in the snow on a summery August day.

These events provided opportunities for experienced Mazamas to share their love of the outdoors with others, some of 28

whom were also experienced hikers and backpackers and others who were new to the activities. The backpacking experience provided more practice for the kids to learn backpacking skills, camp craft skills, and that the hard work of a tough hike pays off with immeasurable benefits of vistas and friendship.

Some of the “South Sister Four” also participated in the second annual Rooster Rock climb and BBQ, developed by Craig Martin and held in July 2014. Less than an hour east of Portland, Rooster Rock provided an exceptional rock climbing experience for all involved, with spectacular views of the Columbia River Gorge, whether for long-time rock climbers or those out for their first rock climbing experience. After a full day of rock climbing and rappelling (some completing the route twice!), the kids went for a dip in a lake at the park, proving once again that energy can be endless when kids are having fun. The committee also held a number of Family Climb Nights at the MMC and led two weekend climbing trips to Smith Rock in October 2013 and September 2014. Collectively, these varied activities provided the foundation for the South Sister climb.

Thus prepared for steep hiking and long days, our climb of South Sister began on August 16. Our team was comprised of Bob Murphy (leader), Eric Einspruch (assistant), Charles Blanke, Josie Blanke, Luca Einspruch, Henry Kofron, Ruby Kofron, Corinna Kupelwieser, Jan Martens, Andrea McKee, and Sam O’Leary.

We departed the Devil’s Lake Trailhead and hiked 2.5 miles to the plains just west of Moraine Lake and set up camp, prepared dinner, hung our food, and went to sleep early. We chose the Devil’s Lake route for its length and directness to the summit, and decided to camp in an alpine meadow to divide the climb into manageable segments, to have a safe spot for the kids to play (where they ran themselves ragged until nightfall!), have an easy start to the summit day with the first mile of the day covering flat terrain, and to savor the outdoor alpine experience.

The next morning we awoke at 4:30 a.m., had breakfast, packed for the day, and at 5:30 a.m. began our ascent of Oregon’s third highest mountain. The team kept a moderate and steady pace, taking breaks

to nibble on “go treats”—treats that taste so much better on the trail and boost your spirits at the same time—as we hiked the four miles to the 10,358-foot summit. The original plan had been to rest every 30 minutes, but to keep the kids’ spirits up we quickly altered the plan to allow anyone to call a break as needed and fell into a pattern of having a break every 15 minutes, alternating standing breaks with packs-off and sit-down breaks. Both adults and kids were keenly interested in the landscape around them, including the tarn at the base of the Lewis Glacier and the view to the south over and beyond the ground we had traversed. At many times during the ascent, the kids were encouraged to lead the pack and set the pace for the entire team, and all the kids rotated through leading the group. To mark our progress, we called out our elevation gain and expressed it in terms of the conditioning hikes we had completed that summer—“We only have Dog Mountain to go!” Then, “We only have Wahkeena Springs to go!” and “We only have Tryon Park to go!” and most excitedly, “We see the summit!” The kids were so excited that they decided to forgo a planned food break at the false summit so they could touch the true summit as soon as possible!

We found ourselves traversing the crater at 10:30 a.m.. After a mere 5 hours of hiking, all 11 team members had reached the summit. It was a beautiful morning, made all the better by the kids’ great attitudes. Gazing north from the summit to Chambers Lakes, Middle Sister, and North Sister, climber Luca Einspruch observed in wonder: “The world is so big!” Another young climber in the group reflected the common motivation of becoming members by exclaiming, “Wahoo! We are now eligible to be Mazamas!” We enjoyed the view and celebrated our success with a twist on leader treats—the adult leaders provided snacks to the team—including chocolates and dried mango (deemed “magic mango” on the climb). After savoring our treats, soaking in the view, and posing for pictures to mark this momentous achievement, we began our descent. The kids were so overjoyed at having reached their goal that they set quite an energetic pace, and we arrived back at camp at 3:00 that afternoon.

As planned, we spent a second night in camp marveling at the scenery and enjoying our time together. Of course, this meant yet another trip down the 500 or so

feet to Moraine We have noted that Lake to get water, children are more engaged but that was just in an activity when other part of the fun. children are part of it During the evening too, especially when it we watched a is a group of hikers who thunderstorm to have gotten to know the east and were each other over time. It happy that only would not surprise us if its edge touched the friendships they are us. By this point it developing last long into was clear that the the future. kids were able to Our “South Sister Four” be comfortable on persevered through the South Sister Summit—From left: Sam O’Leary, Josie Blanke, Ruby Kofron, Luca Einspruch. a two-night trip, summer to reach their Photo: Eric Einspruch. and that if desired, goal on this mountain. we could extend In addition, since it is a First and foremost, we approach risk the duration of the journey rather than glaciated peak, they qualified for Mazama management with an ultra-conservative pushing to depart and return in a manner membership and several have already attitude, ensuring that kids and parents that might seem rushed. become members. We are proud of their are prepared and that kids are supervised The following day we hiked back to accomplishment and delighted to have by a parent or other responsible adult. our vehicles at the trailhead. On the way been a part of it. During a dinner to Second, we believe in strong but gentle home a couple of the families stopped for celebrate Sam’s accomplishment of the encouragement that supports the kids lunch and then floated a section of the goal he set almost nine months prior, on without coercing them. Our idea is that a Deschutes River. becoming a Mazama and all the work it good day, and a successful day, is one that The South Sister climb exemplified key took to accomplish that goal, Sam asked: ends with the kids wanting to participate elements of the approach the Families “What’s next?” Another generation of in that activity again.

Committee has taken for all of its events. climbers has been bitten by the bug. ¾

CRATER LAKE PAINTING

by Rick Craycraft

T

he next time you enter Holman Auditorium at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, take a few steps in, turn around, and look up.

There, hovering over the back of the auditorium is the Mazamas’ large, venerable painting of Crater Lake. This piece of art has been with the Mazamas for nearly a century, having followed us every time we’ve moved to a new office. Many of our older members surely remember it hanging in the lobby of 909 NW 19th Avenue for years.

The origins of the painting are unremarkable and somewhat comical. It was painted in the early part of the 20th century for the Portland Chamber of Commerce. Unfortunately, upon delivery, the painting proved to be too large for any available space in the Chamber’s offices. The Mazama office at that time was in the same building. The Chamber conveniently “presented” the painting to the Mazamas, who were connected to Crater Lake historically, and had adequate wall space.

Inspired by a camping trip to Crater Lake, William Gladstone Steel, a Mazama founder and our first president, led a 17-year

effort to have Crater Lake and its surroundings designated as a national park. In 1896, Steel led a Mazama outing to Crater Lake to promote his cause. According to Mazama museum curator Vera Dafoe, the role of the Mazamas in securing protections for Crater Lake was that of a “background chorus” to Steel. On May 22, 1902, Steel’s diligence and the Mazamas’ efforts were rewarded when Crater Lake became a national park.

The painting itself, though not of particular financial value, does serve as an example of oil paintings done at that time. Color photography had not yet been invented, so landscape painters took enlarged black and white photos and painted over them with colored oil paint. Paintings of this style can also be seen at Multnomah Falls Lodge.

There is very little mention of the painting in the Mazama records. An article appeared in the December 1938 Mazama Bulletin by Carl Price Richards, and he was no fan of it. Mr. Richards contends that the painting is “devoid of artistry, of poor proportion, lacking in composition, without a ‘sky’ and having an archaic frame.” To this day there are opinions on both sides of the issue.

Judge for yourself next time you’re in Holman Auditorium. The painting has never been professionally cleaned or repaired. Maybe we should look into that. After all, it’s a family heirloom. ¾ 29

Missing Glaciers in the Southern Oregon Cascades

by Martin Lafrenz, Portland State University

When Dr. Theodore Lathrop discovered his eponymous glacier on Mt. Thielsen in 1966, it was a remarkable find not so much for the scale of the glacier itself, but for the fact that there was actually ice to be found in the Southern Oregon Cascades. There had been only one other report of ice possibly occurring on Mt. McLaughlin from an observation made in 1896.

However, by 1939 there was no trace of that ice (Phillips,1939).

This is in contrast to the numerous glaciers that still persist on peaks in the Central and Northern Oregon Cascades, including 12 named glaciers on Mt. Hood and an additional 15 glaciers among the Sisters volcanoes. One could argue that these more northern peaks have glaciers because they are taller than any of the peaks in Southern Oregon. Yet on the relatively low-elevation Three Fingered Jack (7,841 feet), which sits between Mt. Jefferson and North Sister, there is good evidence that a glacier documented by Phillips in 1938 may still persist based on recent aerial photography showing a tarn and patches of ice.

Several peaks in Southern Oregon are taller than Three Fingered Jack, which suggests they could have been glaciated recently but that the ice disappeared before we began monitoring glacier change in the twentieth century. The goal of this research, therefore, was to classify alpine geomorphic features found in Southern Oregon cirques so as to document the possible glacial history of this region or to discover other explanations for what may be missing ice.

Most alpine glaciers in the Oregon Cascades have been steadily retreating since their discovery was first documented 30

in the late nineteenth century (King, 1877). Evidence of glacier change over time in Oregon has been documented through analysis of repeat photography, comparison of different-aged topographic maps, and field investigations (Jackson and Fountain, 2007; Lilliquist, 1989; Nafziger, 1981; Nafziger, 1992; Skovlin et. al., 2001). During this period of investigation some glaciers, such as the Milk Creek Glacier on Mt. Jefferson, have even completely disappeared (Phillips, 1938). As such, throughout the Oregon Cascades there are documented glacial depositional features—including terminal moraines and lateral moraines, that are no longer active nor in the proximity of an active glacier. Air photos from many cirques that have not been surveyed show moraine-like features that may represent Little Ice Age glaciers that have since disappeared. Alternatively, these cirque landforms may represent other geomorphic processes that are not glacial in origin; such processes may actually still be active today.

Methods and Results for The Search for Missing Ice Using a model of likely glacier locations based on research in the Rocky Mountains (Graf, 1976), I analyzed air photos, topographic maps, and Google Earth to identify possible moraines in the cirques of several tall peaks in the Southern Oregon Cascades. Graf ’s model showed that cirque glaciers were most likely to be found in a northern facing cirque, with a pass on its western rim that funnels snow into the cirque, which is protected from afternoon shadows by a southern peak having at least 328 feet of relief. The peaks in this region that meet most of these criteria and appear to possess morainelike features include, from north to south, Tipsoo Peak, Howlock Mountain, Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Bailey, Mt. Scott, and Mt. McLoughlin. I visited each site, except for

THIS RESEARCH WAS FUNDED IN PART BY A MAZAMA RESEARCH GRANT. Mt. McLoughlin, in order to classify any alpine geomorphic features that might be present and to determine the fate of any potentially missing ice.

Mt. Scott is located just east of Crater Lake and within the boundaries of the national park. At 8,928 feet, it is the thirdhighest peak in the Southern Oregon Cascades (Table 1). It is part of the original Mazama complex of volcanoes that began forming 420,000 years ago (Hill, 2004). Its large Pleistocene-age cirque is actually oriented to the northwest. However, a smaller bowl-shaped depression has developed along the southwestern margin of this cirque that contains an arcuate-shaped, moraine-like feature with a slightly northeast orientation. A western pass over the cirque ridge helps snow to accumulate at this location, which is also protected from afternoon sun by a 254-foot tall southern headwall (Table 1). A field investigation revealed there was no ice within this depression.

However, there was a snowfield that had persisted into late October. Fronting the snowfield, at an elevation of 8,185 feet, is an alpine geomorphic feature called a protalus rampart (Figure 1). These features resemble moraines in shape, but represent a much different geomorphic process. Whereas till emerges from the snout of a glacier to form an end moraine as the glacier goes through ablation, protalus ramparts form as freeze-thaw derived rock falls from the headwall and tumbles across a summer snowfield accumulating at its base. These features occur where snowfields persist well into the summer and sometimes until the following winter. As this snow melts in late summer, colluvium continues to accumulate in front of the growing rock wall, which resembles a moraine. However, the material in the rampart is usually

Left: (Figure 1) Protalus rampart on Mt. Scott. Middle: (Figure 2)Nivation hollow filled with snow, on Tipsoo Peak. Right: (Figure 3) Moraine fronting the Lathrop glacier on Mt. Thielsen.

more uniform in size than the till in a moraine, and the distal slope is normally less than the angle of repose–the Mt. Scott feature has a distal slope of 26 degrees, whereas the distal slope of a moraine is often at or exceeding the angle of repose, approximately 35 degrees.

The rampart acts to trap snow the following season, which allows the feature to continue accumulating debris, provided the region continues to receive high amounts of snowfall and abundant debris that falls from an upslope headwall.

Protalus ramparts may be transitional features that could ultimately produce ice.

However, that is unlikely to be happening under current climate conditions in the Southern Oregon Cascades. The lack of a moraine in this small, cirque-like depression indicates that there was no glacier here during the Little Ice Age and thus, no “missing” ice. Nevertheless, the presence of an active protalus rampart suggests that snowfall amounts have been high enough historically to support ice accumulation but that other factors have ultimately prevented the critical accumulation needed for glacial ice.

Howlock Mountain (8,369 feet) also contains an arcuate-shaped feature in its northeast facing cirque at an elevation of 7,918 feet (Table 1). This peak, a halfmillion-year-old heavily glaciated shield volcano, is located northeast of Mt. Thielsen along the Cascade crest (Wood and Baldridge, 1990). Like Mt. Scott, the upper elevation cirque has a western pass that encourages snow accumulation and a 376-foot southwestern headwall that partially shades the cirque floor. The often deep accumulation of late-season snow makes feature classification difficult at this location. However, air photos clearly show that there is currently no ice here.

The rocks are of fairly uniform size with very little of the sand- and silt-sized

material that would normally be found in a moraine. The nature of the rubble on this feature, along with its distal slope of approximately 20 degrees, indicates this is likely a protalus rampart.

Just north of Howlock Mountain is Tipsoo Peak (8,034 feet). This cinder cone is likely less than 100,000 years old and is much less eroded by glaciers than Howlock Mountain (Wood and Baldridge 1990). Just beneath the summit is a small depression situated within a larger northeastern facing cirque. This small cirque-like feature has a small pass to the west and a southwestern headwall with just 49 feet of relief. Nevertheless, snow persists in this location late into summer.

A small, arcuate feature at 7,982 feet exists at the base of this snowfield and resembles a protalus rampart. However, it is mainly composed of finer particles with a few large rocks. This small, bowlshaped feature is a nivation hollow (Figure 2). These form as freeze-thaw processes at the margins of a snowfield loosen small particles, which are transported by melt water to the base of the snowfield, leaving behind a hollow. This process can ultimately produce a cirque, but that did not occur on this peak. Once again, the missing ice is not for lack of snow but due to other factors.

Mt. Bailey is somewhat of an enigma among the Southern Oregon Cascade volcanoes. At 8,375 feet it is relatively tall, but lacks a true north-facing cirque like all other peaks greater than 8,000 feet in this region. It is a relatively young (less than 100,000 years old) High Cascade shield volcano (Wood and Baldridge, 1990). A landslide has obliterated evidence of what may have been a moraine on the eastern flank of the mountain. However, there also appears to be a vent that has been enlarged by nivation processes. With no cirque, the north face lacks a western

pass, and the headwall instead contributes colluvium to a series of talus cones that are actively building at about 7,000 feet.

Mt. Thielsen (9,182 feet) is the second highest peak in this region, and it does have glacial ice behind an active moraine in its northeast facing cirque (Figure 3).

The mountain is heavily glaciated and relatively old, having begun erupting 290,000 years ago (Wood and Baldridge, 1990). The cirque has a western pass and a towering headwall to the southwest that creates 1,044 feet of relief above the moraine. The moraine has a mean elevation of 7,729 feet and a distal slope of 36 degrees. Interestingly, Mt. Thielsen also has an active protalus rampart just west of the moraine. This feature has a distal slope of 29 degrees, occurs at an elevation of 7,682 feet, and has 695 feet of headwall relief.

Why the lack of ice?

Glaciers form where the annual accumulation of snow outpaces the rate of melt over many years. Hence, winter snowfall and summer temperatures are often the limiting factors for glacier formation. As has been noted, Mt. Hood has many glaciers, while in all of Southern Oregon there is only one—on Mt. Thielsen. A comparison of annual climate data between Government Camp near Mt. Hood and Lemolo Lake near Mt. Thielsen reveals a portion of the story (Table 2). Both climate stations are at approximately the same elevation and longitude, and each station receives about the same amount of snowfall on an annual basis. Clearly, there is ample snowfall in the Southern Oregon Cascades to support glaciers—as anyone who has attempted to visit Crater Lake in winter can attest. However, the August maximum

continued on next page 31

Missing Glaciers, continued from previous page temperatures, when snowmelt is proceeding in earnest, are quite different.

The southern station has an August mean maximum temperature of 82 degrees Farenheit while the Mt. Hood station has an August mean maximum of 69 degrees Farenheit. Since a 40-watt bulb can melt a pound of ice in one hour, the 13 degrees of added temperature in the Southern Oregon Cascades is the equivalent of a 25-watt bulb shining on every square foot of the southern snow pack during the summer.

The higher summer temperatures in the Southern Oregon Cascades, combined with the fact that the southern peaks have lower elevations than most glaciated peaks to the north, appear to explain the lack of ice in Southern Oregon despite the relatively high amounts of annual snowfall. The remaining question is, in spite of these conditions, why does Mt. Thielsen have a glacier? The answer is, again, related to the summer sun.

Modeling sun angle for each cirque shows that the headwall on each of these peaks casts a shadow on its northern cirque during much of the year. However, from June to August the noon sun completely illuminates the entirety of each cirque

with the exception of Mt. Thielsen (Table 1). Although the moraine at Mt. Thielsen does receive direct sunlight during summer, the upper portion of the cirque, which appears to coincide with the accumulation area of the glacier, is always shaded by the headwall. Further support of this conclusion can also be found at Mt. Thielsen, where the portion of the cirque that has produced a protalus rampart in lieu of a glacier receives full sun during summer.

The abundant snowfall in the Southern Oregon Cascades provides the possibility that glacier ice can develop on these peaks. Clearly, each of these locations was glaciated during the Pleistocene and some may have held glaciers during the early to mid-Holocene. However, based on the lack of moraine material at each location and the presence of well-developed protalus ramparts or nivation hollows, most Southern Oregon Cascade cirques likely did not produce glaciers during the Little Ice Age; hence, there is really no missing ice.

Yet, one question remains to be

Table 1.Southern Oregon high peaks and their associated alpine geomorphic features.

Peak

Peak Elevation

Feature

Feature Elevation

Feature Orientation

Headwall Elevation

Headwall Relief

August Noon

Mt. McLoughlin

9,495 ft.

Protalus rampart?

8,380 ft.

13°

9,335 ft.

955 ft.

In sun

Mt. Scott

8,928 ft.

Protalus rampart

8,185 ft.

11°

8,439 ft.

254 ft.

In sun

Mt. Thielsen

9,182 ft.

Moraine

7,729 ft.

30°

8,773 ft.

1,044 ft.

In sun*

Mt. Thielsen

9,182 ft.

Protalus rampart

7,682 ft.

25°

8,377 ft.

695 ft.

In sun

Howlock Mtn.

8,369 ft.

Protalus rampart

7,918 ft.

13°

8,294 ft.

376 ft.

In sun

Tipsoo Peak

8,034 ft.

Nivation hollow

7,982 ft.

15°

8,031 ft.

49 ft.

In sun

Mt. Bailey

8,375 ft.

Talus cone

7,000 ft.

51°

8,090 ft.

1,090 ft.

In sun

*The upslope accumulation area of the glacier is shaded throughout the summer.

Table 2.Climate data for stations nearest to Mt. Hood and Mt. Thielsen.

Latitude

Longitude

Elevation (feet)

Snowfall (inches)

August Max (F)

Government Camp (Mt. Hood)

45.3

-121.8

3,983

271

69

Lemolo Lake (Mt. Thielsen)

43.3

-122.2

4,163

223

82

Climate Station

32

answered: did Mt. McLoughlin recently have a glacier in its northern cirque? I have yet to visit this location to confirm the type of arcuateshaped figure that is evident in air photos for this location. Mt. McLoughlin is actually taller than Mt. Thielsen, and its southern headwall relief is nearly that of its northern neighbor.

However, the cirque receives full sunshine during the summer months. The ice observed on Mt. McLoughlin in 1896 had “vanished” by 1938 (Phillips,1939). However, photographs from 1896 show what may actually be a snowfield fronted by a protalus rampart. Mt. McLoughlin is younger than Mt. Thielsen and thus, it has not been as heavily eroded by glaciers. A visit to clarify the types of features on this peak may elucidate what conditions and thresholds allow for glacier formation in the Southern Oregon Cascades and whether there really is any missing ice.

This research report was partially funded by the Mazama Research Committee. The author can be contacted at lafrenz@pdx.edu. ¾

References ▶▶ Graf, W.L. (1976). Cirques as glacier locations.

Arctic and Alpine Research 8: 79-90. ▶▶ Hill, Richard. (2004). Volcanoes of the cascades. The Globe Pequot Press: Guilford, CT. ▶▶ Jackson, K., and A.G. Fountain. (2007).

Spatial and morphological change on Eliot Glacier, Mount Hood, Oregon, USA. Annals of Glaciology 46: 222-226. ▶▶ King, C. (1871). Active Glaciers within the United States. Atlantic Monthly 27: 371-377. ▶▶ Lilliquist, K. D. (1989). Holocene fluctuations of the Coe Glacier, Mt. Hood, Oregon. Thesis, Portland State University, Portland, OR. ▶▶ Nafziger, R. H. (1981). Lathrop Glacier revisited: 1976-1981. Mazama 69: 50-51. ▶▶ Nafziger, R. H. (1992). Update on Lathrop Glacier from 1988 to 1992. Mazama 74: 106107. ▶▶ Phillips, K. N. (1938). Our vanishing glaciers; observations by Mazama Research Committee on glaciers of the Cascade Range in Oregon.

Mazama 20: 24-41. ▶▶ Phillips, K. N. (1939). Farewell to Sholes Glacier. Mazama 21: 37-40. ▶▶ Skovlin, J.M., Strickler, G.S., Peterson, J.L., and Sampson, A.W. (2001). Interpreting landscape change in high mountains of northeastern Oregon from long-term repeat photography.

USDA General Technical Report PNWGTR-505. ▶▶ Wood, C.A. and Baldridge, S. (1990) Volcano tectonics of the Western United States: Volcanoes of North America, Wood, C.A. and Kienle, J. (eds.). Cambridge University Press: Cambridge, England.

Cathy Gaylord crossing what Fred Beckey describes as The Gable on Tomyhoi Peak. Cathy was the assistant leader on Doug Wilson’s climb in September 2014. Photo: Doug Wilson.

Clockwise, from left page: Lee Davis, Gary Ballou, Brad Unruh, and Jonathan Barrett descending to the Col du Plan. Grandes Jorasses in the background. Monte Rosa, and Matterhorn in the distance. Photo: Lisa Brady. Mountain goat, with Dragontail Peak in the background. Photo: John Leary. Practicing fixed line travel on Ruckel Ridge. Photo: Andrew Holman. Kristofel Simbajon on the summit ridge of Mt. Larrabee, Aug. 2, 2014. Photo: Bob Breivogel. North to Alaska team. Photo: Unknown.

Clockwise, from top: Mt. Hood from Mirror Lake. Photo: Al Papesh. Climbers ascending Mesatchie Peak. Photo: John Major. Leaving the summit of this beautiful piece of granite, Mt. Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington. Photo: Karl Helser.

Norman Clyde:

A Legend of the Sierra Nevada

by Rick Craycraft

E

veryone who climbs in the Pacific Northwest for any length of time has heard of Fred Beckey, right? You can hardly find a pitch in this region on which you can yell “On belay” or “Rope!” that doesn’t have Fred Beckey’s DNA on it. He’s a living legend, who has cast his influence over an entire range—the Cascades.

But there is another gentleman, a generation before Beckey, who pioneered and dominated the climbing in an area also in the western United States.

That man was Norman Clyde, and the mountains he roamed for decades are the Sierra Nevada in California.

Unlike Beckey, Norman Clyde grew up far from the part of the country that became his legacy. He was born in Philadelphia in 1885, the son of an itinerant Presbyterian minister. During his youth his family moved from Ohio to Ontario and back to Pennsylvania.

In Ontario, he had the opportunity to explore the woods and hills of the surrounding country and he became a skilled outdoorsman. He was also homeschooled by his father, a taskmaster who insisted that young Norman develop both a breadth and depth of knowledge.

The elder Clyde died in 1901, so the family moved to western Pennsylvania, and Norman entered Geneva College.

He graduated with a degree in Classics in 1909. Always a voracious reader, the young Clyde was particularly influenced by John Muir’s Mountains of California, tales from a far off land that must have fueled his wanderlust. Shortly after graduation, he struck out westward, supporting his transcontinental journey with teaching jobs in North Dakota, Utah and Arizona.

Clyde arrived in California in 1911, intent at first on furthering his education.

He enrolled in graduate studies at the University of California in Berkeley but failed to complete his thesis.

In 1915, Clyde married Winifred Bolster, a nurse, and the couple settled in Norman Clyde (1885–1972), legendary Sierra climber, near the Oakland. Winnie worked in end of his climbing career, in 1963. He made more first ascents in a tuberculosis hospital and the Sierra Nevada than anyone else. Here he is looking up at the Sierra Nevada as he talks of future trips. Photo: Ed Cooper. soon caught the disease. The Clydes relocated to Pasadena for her care, and Winnie died maps of the region. Led by LeConte and there at the age of 28. It was the first of William Colby, the Sierra Club was the several blows that would eventually drive main influence at the beginning of the Clyde from society.

20th century in popularizing climbing Inspired by John Muir, Clyde first made a and hiking in the Sierra. The first noted foray into climbing in 1914. With virtually climber as such was James Hutchinson. no training, Clyde attained eight summits Over the first 20 years of the new century in Yosemite, including three first ascents. he compiled a list of prominent first He also climbed Mt. Whitney, then the ascents that seemingly would never be highest in the U.S., for the first of what equaled. But that was before Norman would be 50 times. In his first season Clyde kicked into high gear. he counted 11 summits. He also linked Clyde took a hiatus from climbing in up with members of the Sierra Club, in the years after 1914, probably due to his existence for only 22 years at that time, relocation to Pasadena and his need to and became a member himself. care for his ailing wife. He did get away in The Sierra Range in those days was 1916 for the first of his 12 ascents of Mt. not well known by the general public. It Shasta and the following year for a climb had not been explored until 1863, when it of Mt. San Jacinto, nearby in southern was first engaged by the Whitney Survey, California. named after its leader, Josiah Whitney.

After Winnie’s death he sought solitude By 1864 the survey was in full operation, and solace in the mountains, working his exploring the range comprehensively for way up the southern Sierra, including two the first time. Members of the survey also more ascents of Mt. Whitney and a second made what is considered to be the first ascent of Mt. Ritter. known ascent of a major peak there, Mt. In the summer of 1923 he ventured away Hoffman, named for a member of the from the Sierra, to Mt. Shasta. There, in party. early July, he climbed from Horse Camp to John Muir was the next prominent the summit in 3 hours and 17 minutes. Not visitor to the Sierra, in the late 1860s, satisfied, he returned two days later to do first in Yosemite, but also with ascents the same route in 2 hours and 43 minutes. of Mts. Ritter and Whitney farther south.

From there he traveled to Glacier National He chronicled all this in his famous Park in Montana and climbed a mindwritings, the influence of which reached boggling 36 peaks in 36 days, including at least one young man as far away as 11 first ascents. At this time in Glacier Pennsylvania. Another influential figure there were few trails and Clyde carried in the exploration of the Sierra was Joseph most of his own food. This so impressed LeConte, who photographed the area the National Park Service they issued a and also produced the first detailed

continued on next page

33

Norman Clyde, continued from previous page press release, and for the first time Clyde made an appearance as a national figure associated with climbing. He returned to Glacier the following year and added 19 more summits, including more first ascents.

At the end of the summer of 1924, Clyde accepted the position of principal at a high school in Owens Valley, near the foot of his beloved Sierra Nevada. This move would lead to another major turning point in his life.

In 1925, Clyde put up an astonishing 53 summits, 23 of them first ascents. The year after that he recorded 60 summits, several of which were two first ascents in the same day of Mt. Russell, one of California’s 14,000-foot peaks. Clyde accomplished most of this climbing solo and with minimal equipment. Of his 53 summits in 1925, he had a partner on only six of them.

And more often than not he took with him just an ice axe, a rope, his Trapper Nelson pack, tricouni-nailed boots ,and his signature campaign hat. Some may consider his climbing as being glorified scrambling, but he climbed during an era when there were no guidebooks, very few detailed topographical maps, no search and rescue teams, and no communication devices. On the overwhelming number of these ascents Norman Clyde simply assessed the mountain, picked a way that looked feasible and improvised if he encountered the unexpected. That he was involved in only one accident in his career is nothing short of miraculous.

Clyde had interest in mountains wherever he could find them, but his life of modest means prevented him from alpine globe-trotting. In 1926 he went with the Sierra Club to the Tetons where, without prior knowledge of the area, he served as route-finder to the top of the Grand Teton.

From there he saw Mt. Moran, another prominent peak nearby, and hatched a plan to solo it. He did that in the following days but without his trusty ice axe.

Scrounging about, he located a miner’s pick and managed to get himself to the top with that. He got back to the hotel to meet his party for another ascent of the Grand the next day.

That accomplished, he split from the party, and travelled to the BeartoothAbsaroka range, just north of Yellowstone.

He climbed a few peaks there in preparation for an attempt on Granite 34

Peak, the high point of Montana. It had only been climbed once and Clyde had trouble finding information about access.

He eventually fell in with a group of climbers from Billings but parted from them, and with the company of a young man named Hans Vogel, attained the summit. From there the indefatigable Clyde traveled to the Sawtooths in Idaho, where he made at least seven more climbs before returning to California.

Firearms had always been a part of Clyde’s life, from his rural upbringing back East to his self-styled frontiersman life in California. He considered them acceptable both for survival in the wild and, if necessary, for self-defense. He was armed on Halloween night of 1928 when rumors of possible seasonal hijinks swirled about the school where he was principal.

Clyde was there that evening, ready to defend public property. When a carload of students showed up, Clyde fired over their heads (his version) or at their car (their version). In any event, the school board disapproved of this behavior, and Clyde submitted his resignation. It was the last full-time employment he ever had.

This turn of events allowed him to focus his full attention on climbing and life in the mountains. According to Clyde himself in a later interview, “I sort of went off on a tangent from civilization and never got back.” From then on he improvised to make ends meet. He cobbled together a living over the years from a combination of writing, leading climbs, caretaking of local lodges and summer residences, trail building and rescues. For most of the rest of his life Clyde, unlike most mountaineers then and now, didn’t just visit the mountains, but lived there.

Mazamas first crossed paths with Clyde in 1928 on an historic outing to the Canadian Rockies. This outing was a collaborative effort between the Sierra Club, the Mountaineers and the Mazamas (and is recounted in the 1928 Mazama Annual). Ed Hughes and Don Woods (who lived in San Jose, California) represented the Mazamas. The Mountaineers brought along the famous brother team of Hans and Heinie Fuhrer, who were the designated climb leaders of the trip. Mt. Edith Cavell was the group’s first objective.

Bestor Robinson of the Sierra Club noted some regional differences in climbing styles:

We were confronted with a thousand feet of steep, crumbling knife-edge.

To add to our contemplation of this scene, a cutting cross-wind was whipping through the saddle.

Half-way up the knife-edge the harder quartzite gave way to a soft crumbly shale. The absence of safe hand- holds and footholds forced the abandonment of this route. Our Mazama friends, Don Woods and Ed Hughes, without hesitation swung out onto a sixty degree slope of ice and snow which terminated in a sheer drop onto the Ghost Glacier.

We Sierrans, unaccustomed to snow, attempted to scale the rock slopes at the right, using ropes as a precaution; but finding this course impossible, we timidly followed our Mazamas onto the ice, sinking our ice-axes and crampons deep into cut steps. The Sierrans, who had laughed at the Mazamas on the ticklish rockwork, were now the recipients of welldeserved humorous comments. So in this fashion we all got to the summit.

During this outing, members of these three clubs also summited Mt. Geikie, at 10,854 feet, and the famous Mt. Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

Significantly, it was the first time in his career Clyde had been belayed. He also realized that there was money to be made by leading parties into the mountains.

The year 1928 also marked the first appearance of Clyde’s writings about his adventures to an audience larger than the Sierra Club Bulletin. He had the advantage of writing about a landscape very few Americans had seen and for which no guidebooks had yet been written.

Eventually many of these writings would be compiled in Close Ups of the High Sierra, published in 1962. His other book, published in 1971, is Norman Clyde of the Sierra Nevada: Rambles Through the Range of Light. Over his lifetime Clyde published 1,467 articles, reflecting the range of his skills and interests. His writings covered natural history, skiing, photography, firearms, camping and mountain craft, as well as climbing.

Clyde met the future of climbing in the summer of 1931. Francis Farquhar, vice president of the Sierra Club, had invited Robert Underhill, a Harvard professor and accomplished climber with

experience in the eastern United States and Europe, to introduce Sierra climbers to the “new” techniques of piton craft and rope management. Underhill conducted a summer-long workshop for aspiring young climbers in the Ritter Range, with an eye on completing a first ascent on the previously considered “unclimbable” East Face of Mt. Whitney. But first they decided to warm up farther north on an unnamed spire-like peak in the Palisades area of the Sierra.

Using their new techniques, Underhill, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson and Norman Clyde topped out on this mysterious peak just in time to be confronted by an electrical storm. Lightning flashed all around them, precipitating a hasty and death-defying retreat. Thanks largely to the skill of Clyde, all survived. This mountain is now named Thunderbolt Peak, the last of the California 14ers to be climbed. After that adventure, the climb of the East Face of Whitney, just a few days later, turned out to be surprisingly easy, though it is a landmark in climbing history in the U.S. There is a direct line between this climb and all that came after—the glory days of Yosemite beginning in the late 1950s and all big wall challenges thereafter. Now people like Alex Honnold have come full circle and scramble over previously inconceivable pitches without protection just the way Norman Clyde did at the dawn of Sierra climbing.

Clyde slowed his pace a bit during the 1930s, leading climbs for the Sierra Club and spearheading sometimes epic rescues. He did travel from the Sierra to tackle a remarkable peak—El Picacho del Diablo, the tallest mountain in Baja California. In 1932 the Sierra Club, on a climb organized by Bestor Robinson and Glen Dawson, took Clyde and three others into the inhospitable terrain surrounding this mountain. The first ascent was in 1911 and it had not been climbed since. A long approach, complex route finding, a hot climate, and lack of water made this a challenge none of these men had yet faced.

They arranged to have their gear carried in over 15 miles with 5,000 feet of elevation gain in 90 degree heat by Mexican packers who were incredulous that any party would want to attempt such a thing. The structure of the climb was dependent on water sources and ended with no food for any of them for the final two days. Still,

Norman Clyde had lived as every alpinist wants to live, but as none of them dare to do, and so he had a unique life. When he died, I felt that an endangered species had become extinct ...

He was the only man I knew who gave himself up so completely to a passionate love of the mountains. In return, the mountains spared him a hundred times as he clambered alone to their summits by many a new route, and they let him die of old age in full view of their peaks. they summitted and returned safely. In true form, Clyde returned five years later with the editor of Desert Magazine and climbed the peak again, this time from a different direction.

In the early 1940s Clyde had a falling out with the Sierra Club after years of being a trip leader. He climbed his last new route in the Sierra in 1946. He never led again but in his later years returned as a living legend, attending the club’s Base Camps and High Trips until 1970, when he was 85 years old.

What is the legacy of Norman Clyde?

He is an icon of North American climbing, certainly: an influence on a generation or more of succeeding climbers including David Brower, Steve Roper, Allen Steck, Jules Eichorn and Glen Dawson; a modern day Renaissance man; a throwback survivalist who subsisted for weeks and months in alpine environments; a writer of florid, archaic prose; a teacher and mentor who wanted to share his love of mountains with others; a specimen whose physical accomplishments bordered on superhuman; a man who turned his life into a statement about the high country in a way most of us can only dream about.

Norman Clyde died just before Christmas in 1972. He had lived long enough to see climbers in the Sierra and elsewhere achieve unimaginable things. In Climbing California’s Fourteeners, Cameron Burns wrote: Norman Clyde pushed human endurance and climbing skill to a level that many advanced mountaineers and climbers cannot match today.

Interestingly, you will never find

a quote or passage of Clyde’s that alludes to any type of fear, loneliness, or self-doubt during his vagabond climbing life. Rather, he was solid and purposeful, and he was as much a part of these mountains as they were of him. Norman Clyde and this range of rock and light were and perhaps still are one and the same.

And, from his obituary in Climbing magazine, by his friend Thomas Jukes, a final reflection: Norman Clyde had lived as every alpinist wants to live, but as none of them dare to do, and so he had a unique life. When he died, I felt that an endangered species had become extinct ... He was the only man I knew who gave himself up so completely to a passionate love of the mountains. In return, the mountains spared him a hundred times as he clambered alone to their summits by many a new route, and they let him die of old age in full view of their peaks.

(I want to acknowledge the sources from which I gathered material for this article. Climbing California’s Fourteeners

by Porcella and Burns and Steve Roper’s The Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra were quite helpful, but I drew most heavily from Clyde’s biography, Norman Clyde: Legendary Mountaineer of California’s Sierra Nevada by Robert Pavlik. This book offers a much more comprehensive look at Norman Clyde’s life and is a good read to boot. Of course all these books are available in our Mazama library.) ¾

35

THIS TRIP WAS FUNDED IN PART BY A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT.

Photos on this page show the beauty of Mongolia and the rock climbing the team experienced on the expedition.

Photos provided by David Anderson.

36

by David Anderson

I

n September of 2014, Szu-ting Yi, Lei Zou and I spent three weeks exploring and climbing in Mongolia. We visited two potential climbing areas, Gorkhi-Terelj National Park and Eej Khairkhan Uul. During the expedition we repeated established routes and also added several new routes. We experienced logistic and access challenges and gained valuable information for climbers wishing to visit Mongolia in the future.

History of Climbing in Mongolia When Genghis Khan and his armies charged west across Mongolia on their way to conquer foreign lands, they traveled alongside a granite belt of mountains that stretch from central Mongolia to the Gobi Desert. They used these sacred granite peaks and outcroppings as landmarks to navigate by. On the western edge of the Gobi Desert lies the towering Eej Khairkhan Uul or Mother Mountain.

These granite peaks have remained largely unexplored and unclimbed.

In a country composed of endless steppes and sprawling deserts, the people of Mongolia have historically considered mountains and rock towers unique, sacred and worthy of protection. Historical legends tell the story of Genghis Khan scaling these cliffs as a young boy to capture eaglets for use as hunting birds. In 1709, Genghis Khan used his royal decree to designate 16 sacred mountains in Mongolia to be conserved and treated with respect for future generations. Logging, mining and hunting were forbidden in the mountainous regions that include Eej Khairkhan Uul and today these regions are part of Mongolia’s Natural Preserves.

Mountaineers have visited the high glacial mountains in northwestern Mongolia for the last 50 years, but few climbers have explored the alpine/rock climbing potential. In 2001 a five-man British expedition climbed rock routes near the capital of Ulan Batar at Gorkhi– Terelj National Park. American Steve Schneider climbed a long alpine rock route near Central Mongolia’s highest peak, Otgon Tengor, in 2002 as well as establishing Mongolia’s hardest route in Gorkhi–Terelj. In 2010 a large group

of climbers from Salt Lake City, Utah, established a number of boulder problems and single pitch routes in Gorkhi–Terelj as well as in the Khogno Khan Mountains.

Our research did not turn up reports of any climbing attempts around Eej Khairkhan Uul.

Pre-Expedition Details We were forced to modify our itinerary before we even began. Originally, we had planned to purchase horses in Ulan Batar and ride them west across Mongolia and then transition to using camels to transport us to the base of Eej Khairkhan Uul. Two factors forced us to change our original itinerary: First, due to family obligations, Lauren Edwards, our original fourth member, had to drop out. She was the only team member with significant horse-packing experience. Second, we were unable to raise the funds necessary to offset the cost of buying horses and hiring camels for transport during our expedition. We decided to modify our itinerary to include exploring and potentially opening new routes in GorkhiTerelj National Park and Eej Khairkhan Uul. We would first visit Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, which has easy access from Ulan Batar, and then fly to Altai, the capital of western Mongolia, where we would hire a translator, a driver and jeep to get us to Eej Khairkhan Uul. Finally, Lei Zou, a climber from Beijing, would join our expedition.

2014 Expedition Details September 8 Szu-ting (Ting Ting) Yi and I flew to Beijing and rendezvoused with Lei Zou. We spent the day organizing equipment and buying food and supplies we thought might be difficult to obtain in Mongolia.

September 9 We flew from Beijing to Ulan Batar (UB) the capital city of Mongolia. We stayed at a hostel near the city center. With the help of the hostel owner, we arranged to hire a vehicle to take us sixty miles from UB to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park the following day. Next we visited the State Department Store and exchanged U.S. Dollars for Mongolian Tugrik and discovered the nearby supermarket had almost all of the food products typically found in a Western supermarket. We bought food supplies for our five-day exploratory trip to GorkhiTerelj National Park.

September 10-13 After breakfast we loaded up an ancient, but well maintained, 4-wheel drive Russian-made van and drove to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. The park is a popular summer destination, but we had some difficulty finding an open Ger camp (a hotel-like set up where guests sleep in tent-like structures). During the next three days we explored the multitude of granite spires and walls of the region. The rock is composed of large grained granite reminiscent of that found in Vedauwoo, WY. We repeated some bolt-protected face climbs that were established by the Salt Lake City climbers. We also found a bolted route that was put up by local climbers for a climbing competition. The “boundaries” of the routes marked with white spray paint and the phrase “Mongolian Sport Climbing” were painted in giant letters at the base of the route.

We then set about trying to find natural crack lines to establish some new routes.

After searching and learning what to look for in terms of good quality rock, we established the Golf Ball Pinnacle, I 5.9 R/X, Running Fox I 5.10-, and the Red Dihedral II 5.10+. These routes were led ground up without placing any fixed protection and we also documented the ascents on the local climber’s blog site for future parties to enjoy and hopefully be inspired to seek out similarly styled first ascents. Overall this area has incredible potential for single and short multipitch routes. With easy access, excellent accommodations and unrestricted route development, Gorkhi-Terelj National Park is Mongolia’s finest rock climbing area.

September 14–15 We returned to UB and coordinated via cell phone with our Mongolian translator and driver in Altai and also learned our flight to western Mongolia was delayed for a day due to mechanical issues. We used the extra time to explore UB and attend a performance by the talented Tumen Ekh Ensemble.

September 16–17 After paying excess baggage fees (domestic air travel in Mongolia has a 15 kilogram total weight allowance for combined checked and carry-on luggage), we took off from Ghengis Khan International Airport. The flight to Altai,

continued on next page 37

Mongolia, continued from previous page the capital of Govi-Altai Province, was a smooth two-hour journey. We touched down on a gravel strip to the north of the city of Altai amid snow flurries at 7,500 feet. After retrieving our luggage we met Jargal and her husband (our translator and driver) and hopped into their Toyota Land Cruiser. We had tea at their home.

They were friendly, but asked us some unusual questions, such as what type of shoes we had brought to climb on the rocks of Eej Khairkhan Uul or “Mother Mountain.” Jargal then said it was a dangerous place and suggested that we do not try and climb Mother Mountain. In previous emails with her I had told her our objective was to establish some climbing routes on Mother Mountain. Before the expedition I had also talked with several people in the government in UB and they assured me that once I got to Mother Mountain I would be free to explore and climb in the remote area. Basically, we just needed Jargal and her husband to get us to the peak and once there I figured we would be on our own program.

We went to the local store and bought three weeks worth of supplies, loaded up the Land Cruiser, and headed out of Altai south toward Mother Mountain.

The “road” was all dirt and varied from smooth open steppes to bone jarring, dry river drainages. After seven hours we saw a herd of domesticated camels at the base of Mother Mountain.

Legend says Eej Khairkhan was married to Aj Bogd on a mountain located to the southwest. But Aj Bogd was old, his head was topped with white year round (covered in snow), and his wife was not happy. In the distance to the northeast she could see Burkhan Buudai Mountain.

Burkhan Buudai was a younger mountain, standing tall and proud against the blue Mongolian sky. Aj Bogd’s wife could not take her eyes off of him. With each passing day she liked Aj Bogd less and felt more and more of an attraction for Burkhan Buudai. Finally she decided she must leave her husband to be with Burkhan Buudai.

But Aj Bogd became suspicious of his wife.

Every night after she went to sleep he would hide her deel (robe), so she would have nothing to wear if she decided to run away. One night Eej Khairkhan awoke and decided tonight was the night to flee and be with Burkhan Buudai. But she could not find her deel, so she quickly put on Aj Bogd’s deel. Her husband woke up and 38

saw his wife fleeing across the desert.

In his anger he grabbed a big handful of sand and threw it at her. His deel was much too large for his wife and the hem was dragging on the ground behind her.

The sand landed on the bottom edge of the deel and held her down. She could not move. She has remained to this day in her present location halfway between Aj Bogd Uul and Burkhan Buudai Uul. The sand which fell on the tail of her deel can still be seen as the big dunes to the southwest of the mountain. Today she is no longer remembered as an unfaithful wife. Her beautiful form lying alone in the desert brought comfort to countless lonely caravan men who could see her from far off and eventually she became known as Eej Khairkhan (“Mother Dearest”) Mountain.

From about 10 miles away it was easy to see the figure of a woman lying down in the silhouette of Mother Mountain—her head, breast and feet which contained the steep walls we had come to climb.

With the sun setting we set up our camp at the base of the mountain.

Jargal informed us that tomorrow the Ranger would arrive to tell us about the regulations of the Park. This was the first time we heard of the existence of a Park Ranger!

In the morning we walked along a one half mile nature trail near our camp, visited the nine sacred pools, and examined the various rain- and windcarved granite boulders said to resemble various animals. We were dismayed to discover the poor rock quality in this area of the park. The granite was weathered and crumbly and there were very few crack systems. It would make technical climbing very challenging, if not impossible.

When the Park Ranger arrived he collected our entrance fee and then told us there was no climbing allowed in the park.

He also told us there was no hiking or exploring outside of the area immediately around our camp and the small nature trail. We spent the next hour discussing and arguing about our access within the park. Since I was previously given permission by the head of his department in UB to explore and climb at Mother Mountain, we asked to speak with his supervisor. Unfortunately, his office was located eight hours away and there was no cell coverage. Eventually, we determined the reason for his reluctance to let us

climb or explore had nothing to do with potential damage to the resource or the Mother Mountain being a sacred area. The issue was liability. The Park Ranger simply did not want to be responsible if we got lost or hurt at Mother Mountain.

We eventually convinced the Ranger to take us to the foot of Mother Mountain, only to take a look at the 2,000-foot wall we wanted to climb. I was holding out hope that the rock quality would be better five miles away and that then we could somehow convince the Ranger to let us climb. As we pulled up in the Land Cruiser my heart sank. I could see the rock was the same choss as the rock by our camp and the wall had very few crack systems.

Without the access issues, we might have tried to stay and ascend to the top of the formation via some easy scrambling up the bad rock. Sadly we were forbidden to go outside the three-acre area around our base camp, and it became apparent that our expedition had come to an end before it even started.

September 18–25 We drove back to Altai and spent the next several days exploring the wilds of Altai while we waited for our flight back to UB. The town was established during the communist era and its 2,500 inhabitants eek out a living by herding or working for one of the government agencies in town. We used our time to attend Altai’s “county fair.” We listened to intoxicated Mongolians belting out karaoke from the very loud bar beneath our rooms in the only hotel in town. Szu-ting and Lei Zou were accosted by the local immigration officials, who thought they were illegal Chinese immigrants trying to steal Mongolian jobs. Eventually we boarded the plane back to UB and the next day returned to Beijing.

Conclusion I learned that even a carefully organized expedition does not always go as planned.

The first-hand knowledge you gain about the environment, the people, and ultimately, yourself, is priceless. Videos of our trip may be viewed at https:// vimeo.com/112662966 or https://vimeo. com/113353658.

Szu-ting Yi, Lei Zou and I feel very fortunate to receive the generous support of the Mazamas. ¾

Following History on the Bailey Range Traverse

by Andrew Bodien

I

t was day four of our traverse along the Bailey Range in the Olympic Mountains and we were already a day behind schedule.

The route-finding puzzles and dicey gully crossings had been mentally challenging. I was nervous about the potentially confusing descent to Cream Lake followed by the ascent into Lower Ferry Basin. Then I saw it in the distance: a small black spot crossing a distant meadow. “Bear!”

I cried to my climbing companions.

David had joked that he expected me as climb leader to produce a bear sighting by the end of the trip.

It seemed that fortune was turning in my favor. It reminded me how the Press Expedition in the winter of 1889–90 had encountered a bear at Low Divide. Meat from that bear saved those foolhardy explorers from starvation. Perhaps sighting this bear would give our team a boost.

The Bailey Range is the chain of peaks that form an arc northeast of the Mt. Olympus massif. Not only does it offer one of the best cross-country scrambles in the Olympic Mountains, it is loaded with history. In 1889 the men of the Press Expedition named this range after William Bailey, publisher of the Seattle Press newspaper. Herb and Lois Crisler established most of the route in the 1940s as they filmed what would become the Disney Film, Olympic Elk. The Second World

War played a part in keeping the Bailey Traverse an unmaintained route. It was not only the beauty and challenge that drew me to this area; I wanted to experience this history for myself.

This was my Jean Hillebrand and Rich Denman descending off Mt. Ferry. Photo: Andrew Bodien. second visit to the Bailey climbing routes. I would, however, caution Range. Paul Steger and I had attempted to users of this climbing guide to treat the traverse the range in 2007, starting at the author’s time estimations with a grain of Boulder Creek Trailhead. When we reached salt.

Appleton Pass it was sopped in with clouds We would start at Sol Duc Falls because and light drizzle. The weather forecast the Boulder Creek Trailhead was closed due had not been encouraging and the dismal to the removal of the dams along the Elwah conditions were bearing it out. Knowing River. The Whiskey Bend Trailhead would that the route finding would be challenging be our exit point. Before departing from Sol in ideal conditions, we opted to bail. As Duc we had to set up a car shuttle, which we retreated across the Tacoma Narrows took up much of our first day. Later in the Bridge I looked in the rear view mirror to trip we learned that you can hire a shuttle see the Olympics shrouded in dark clouds. to drop you off at the trailhead. I would The Bailey Range would have to wait until have gladly paid the $25 per head to save us another time. all those hours.

My initial source of information for this As in most national parks, the first mile climb was the Fourth Edition of Olympic on the trail was busy. Once we passed by Mountains: A Climbing Guide. In addition to Sol Duc Falls we only crossed paths with a route description, this guide has a set of the occasional party. From time to time GPS waypoints that I manually entered into we glimpsed the Sol Duc River as it passed my GPS and then downloaded into Google through narrow gorges. We paused at the Earth. Having the waypoints superimposed trail junction just before heading up a series on the detailed topography of Google Earth of switchbacks to Appleton Pass. There was extremely helpful in researching our were a handful of tent sites available, but route. Over the years I have found Google Earth an invaluable tool for visualizing continued on next page 39

Bailey Range Traverse, continued from previous page we followed the counsel of some other backpackers and hiked to a ridge just above Oyster Lake. Here we found a flat area with a snowfield-fed tarn for water, and the view was remarkable. To the south, Mt. Olympus was peaking over the ridgeline. As the sun set in the west the light reflected off Oyster Lake and the silhouette of Mt. Appleton watched over us. Down below, I could see the switchbacks coming out of the Boulder Creek drainage that Paul Steger and I had climbed up in 2007.

On day two we broke camp and headed east, following a good trail. After crossing a number of meadows and passing through some trees, the trail headed sharply down into the Sol Duc River drainage. The use of veggie belays reminded me that we were no longer on maintained trails. We regained this elevation and entered the Cat Creek drainage via Spread Eagle Pass.

Even in early August we could see the snowfield that gives this pass its name, and it was from Spread Eagle Pass that we had our first view of Mt. Carrier and Cat Peak. As we progressed southwest through a series of cirques on the Cat Creek side of the ridge, the Blue Glacier of Mt. Olympus became visible. Soon we broke through the trees of the final spur and stood on the upper slopes of Cat Creek Basin. We traversed high along the basin slopes to Cat Lake, otherwise known as Swimming Bear Lake (after the bear Herb Crisler filmed swimming there). While lacking good campsites, the lake afforded us the opportunity for a quick, cool dip as we considered our next move. We followed the trail to the meadows of the lower section of the basin and set up camp there.

After the others had retreated into their tents I took advantage of the remaining hours of daylight to search for Castle-inthe-Cat, the shelter that Herb Crisler built in 1944. Initially my search was fruitless—I had only a vague description to go by. But when I simply followed the only trail that led away from our campsite, I found it in 10 minutes beyond a couple of tarns.

All that was left of the shelter was a pile of beams, bleached logs and a couple of shovels. Years of heavy snow accumulation had collapsed this part of the area’s history, leaving it to slowly return to the elements.

Our third day was scheduled to be the longest part of our trek, from Cat 40

Basin to Mt. Ferry. The beginning was pretty straightforward: return to the High Divide Trail, walk past the sign that says “unmaintained trail” and continue east for unobstructed views of the Hoh River Valley. The trail had been blown out of the cliffs before the Second World War. It stopped abruptly at a precipice; plans to continue this trail all the way to Dodger Point were indefinitely interrupted when America entered the war.

We climbed up a short trail and found ourselves at the top of the Catwalk, perhaps the most famous part of the Bailey Traverse. This narrow and brushy arête runs between Cat Peak and Mt. Carrie and serves as the gateway to the Bailey Traverse. After descending 200 feet down an exposed trail of hard dirt, we started out on one of the highlights of the outing. Sure, it dropped off into Cat Creek Basin on the left and the Hoh River Valley on the right, but the scrambling was delightful—just the right combination of scrambling over rocks and veggie belays. As we carefully progressed I was constantly curious, in a pleasant way, about how we would get around each obstacle and which side of the crest the faint path would take us on. From time to time I let go of my intense focus to marvel at how the Hoh River stretched out below us and Mt. Olympus guarded over the valley.

Having passed through the gateway of the Bailey Traverse, we rested at Boston Charlie’s camp before our climb of Mt. Carrie. The peak was named after Carrie Jones, the wife-to-be of Theodore Rixon, during the first USGS survey of the Olympic Mountain forest resources.

At 6,995 feet it is the highest point in the Bailey Range and occupies a central position. We made a steep ascent from Boston Charlie’s but dropped our packs when the promised trail junction was not to be found. We climbed up the summit ridge in a northeast direction until we reached the false summit. Here we realized that we were short on time for a summit bid. We had underestimated the final part of this climb. We would have felt more comfortable continuing on with ice axes and helmets, which lay uselessly down below with our packs. But from the false summit, the views of the Hoh River Valley were even more dramatic than those from down below.

It was a good decision time-wise not to continue to the summit of Mt. Carrie because what followed was a series of dicey gully crossings. It was not difficult down climbing, but with the exposure and full backpacks each gully required complete focus and careful foot placement. This was incredibly time consuming and we were lucky to reach Eleven Bull Basin and find a place to rest our heads before the light ran out. We were well short of our intended campsite at Cream Lake, but we could deal with that later. Two herds of mountain goats checked us out as we prepared our meals.

Day four started out very picturesque at Eleven Bull Basin. The sky was blue but below us a marine layer of clouds had filled up the Hoh River Valley. Shortly after departing our campsite we reached the toughest down climbing of the trip. First it was about 50 feet of down climbing solid, but sharp, rock. Then, a careful traverse across a convex slope had to be managed.

Once across the stream, we could exhale.

After one more dicey gully crossing we transitioned from the mental challenges of exposure to that of route finding.

Now a day behind, our objective was to solve the Cream Lake puzzle and gain as much ground as we possibly could.

The path was pretty straightforward as we ascended and rounded a major spur.

Shortly thereafter we came to a major junction. We consulted the description from the guidebook, discussed it amongst ourselves and descended, only to become caught up in thick cedar bows. Looking at my GPS it was clear we were heading in the wrong direction, so we backtracked to the junction. (In retrospect, I found comfort in the fact that the path we chose was the most worn because so many others before me had made the same mistake.) We took the correct turn at the junction and the trail soon disappeared.

Using the vague descriptions from the guidebook, we attempted to find the point where the trail restarted. After some confusion and backtracking we found the trail, which took us through a series of lovely meadows and gave us our first bear sighting. Then, however, it took us into a series of ravines where it was unclear where to begin our descent to Cream Lake. Tools such as the GPS are useful, but they don’t always tell you how to get from where you are to where you need to be. It

is up to the user to connect the dots, which we did by backtracking to the meadow and leaving the trail.

Soon we found the right gully with the steep meadow that descended down to Cream Lake.

We arrived at Cream Lake (another favorite Herb Crisler campsite) later than we had Mazama Team descending to Cream Lake. Photo: David McNeil. hoped and exhausted from our efforts. There we were on a rock outcropping that was a request separated two alpine lakes, each reflecting to camp at the lake, but I was convinced the surrounding snowfields and blue sky. that we needed push onward and up into Up higher we came to Lake Pulitzer, still the Lower Ferry Basin to prevent falling half covered with ice. further behind schedule. It may have been When we reached the saddle between late in the afternoon, but we had our best Mt. Ferry and Mt. Pulitzer we ran into route finding ahead of us. With David a party of four. They had planned to behind me with his compass set at eastsoutheast I led the team from Cream Lake. continue along the Bailey Range and exit via the Queets Snow Finger. However, one The combination of instinct and David of them had an injured knee so they were keeping me on track led us up to a bench, going to exit via Dodger Point, which was from which we had to choose the gully on our plan as well. They seemed relieved the left or the gully on the right. The last when we agreed to hike out together. We thing we wanted this late in the day was hiked a little higher to the shoulder of Mt. to ascend up a steep gully to find a cliff Ferry, which revealed our exit route. A long that prevented access to the Lower Ferry fantastic ridge extended out to Ludden Basin. Since it was consistent with the east-southeast bearing, I chose to go to the Peak, with a path visible along portions of the ridge. Mt. Scott was to the east. left. I was greatly relieved when we exited the top of this gully and stood in the Lower Our next objective was the Scott-Ludden Saddle, hidden behind the Ludden Peak Ferry Basin. We hiked a little higher, past Ridge, but we had a nasty looking down Lake Billy Everett, to find our camp for the climb ahead of us first. Fortunately a Boy night.

Scout troop from Woodinville had already The morning of day five was the only put in a rope and agreed to let us use it. time that we had cloud cover. Studying It was a little tricky getting down to the the topographic map, it appeared that the anchor point, so I put in my rope for the creek would lead the way to the correct approach. Since we did not have climbing gully. I checked my GPS as we ascended harnesses, we used an arm rappel to and it was clear that this was not the descend. correct route. Half grateful we had not We followed the narrow ridgeline determined that later, we descended and toward Ludden Peak, just short of which found the right gully. (At this point I was we descended down steep meadows. starting to believe that route finding is Whenever it was available, we made taking your best guess, backtracking and use of the path to guide us towards the then trying again.) Once we entered the saddle where, after more route-finding, Upper Ferry the clouds started to lift, we took a well-earned rest. Water bottles revealing a fantastic alpine environment;

and stomachs reloaded, we set out on the final unmaintained portion of our journey. A faint but good trail dropped down steeply and we descended it carefully, at one point spotting our second bear adeptly climbing the cliffs above us. We continued along the trail (it mostly spared us from miserable thrashing through slide alder) until we came upon Crisler’s Ladder. This was a massive cedar tree whose roots provided 30 feet of delightful climbing down into a gully. This gully, loaded with ball bearing-like talus and scree, proved to be the final puzzle of the journey. In past years, a rock hanging from a tree branch guided scramblers to the Long Ridge Trail. My research that this beacon was gone proved to be correct and it was unclear how to climb up to the trail. I took my best guess, crashed through some cedar bows and scrambled up a short gully to stumble along the trail.

Success! I walked to the end of the trail and guided the others up a better route than the one I had taken.

Compared to everything we had done up to this point, the rest was straightforward.

We hiked to the intersection of the Long Ridge and Dodger Point trails where we set up our final camp. The next day we hiked 13 miles to the Whiskey Bend trailhead.

Along the way we stopped at the Humes Ranch cabin. It was here that Herb and Lois Crisler had spent their winters filming the wildlife of the Olympic Mountains.

I knew that the Bailey Range Traverse would challenge my climbing, hiking, route finding and leadership abilities. To end with this final reminder of the history of the area gave this outing even more meaning. ʯʯ Participants: Andrew Bodien, leader; Rich Denman, assistant leader; Jean Hillebrand, David McNeil. ¾ 41

Patagonia Outing February 8–21, 2014

by Sue Griffith

T

he February morning I was to depart for Argentina, I woke to a surprise storm and 100 miles of snow-buried highway between the airport and me. Dozens of flights out of PDX were cancelled but miraculously, my flight was scheduled to depart on time. After four hours of whiteknuckled driving from the coast, I boarded my Delta flight and collapsed into my window seat with a small sense of victory. I was more anxious about missing this and my two connecting flights than taking off into the foreboding skies— against all advice, I had decided against purchasing trip insurance.

42

This adventure was my first Mazama Nestled among rosy flocks of flamingos Outing. I had joined the Mazamas just on the southern shore of gigantic Lago eight months earlier to meet other hikers.

Argentino, El Calafate gets its name There is so much I want to explore on from the scrubby brambles carpeting the foot but am unwilling to tackle alone. surrounding steppes. According to our The Mazamas offers boots-on-the-ground guide Diego, eating the calafate berry travel into nature’s paradise, those guarantees a return to Patagonia. I gulped spectacular offerings lurking beyond a handful of the tiny, indigo fruit at my first the highway viewpoints and dusty car opportunity. windows. My first Mazama Bulletin Our outing leader, Donovan Pacholl, announced a Patagonia trek the following had booked our trail guides, ground February. Winter in Oregon means arrangements and meals for the trip. All summer in Patagonia. I signed up that I had to figure out each day was what day. to wear. Though we would be traveling Despite the turbulent start, two days during summer’s peak, Patagonia is later I landed safely in El Calafate, famous for relentless winds and extreme Argentina. Set in the heart of southern weather changes. I packed a little of Patagonia, it is the gateway to two national everything, from flip-flops to fleece, and parks: to the north is Argentina’s Los was happy to have it. Judging from the Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World great mounds of gear around us in the El Heritage Site; to the southwest lies Chile’s Calafate Airport’s crowded baggage claim Torres del Paine National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Mont Fitz Roy with Laguna Torre in foreground. Photo: Sue Griffith.

area, it looked like my fellow adventurers had brought a bit of everything as well.

Largely Portlanders, our group of twelve ranged from long-time Mazama members in active retirement to executives seeking a brief escape from their daily grind. Several had signed up with friends, the rest were solo adventurers like myself.

Diego whisked us by van on the fourhour drive from El Calafate to tiny El Chaltén. The smoothly paved road provided our first glimpse of the Fitz Roy mountain range and our first chilling blast of the celebrated winds. A dusty frontier town surrounded by foothills yielding to rugged, snow-capped peaks, El Chaltén reminded me a bit of Stanley, Idaho. Its potholed main street lined with cafés and outdoor stores was dotted with weary hikers trickling back to town from day hikes in the mountains. El Chaltén would be our base to explore the lakes and glaciers around Mount Fitz Roy, that iconic peak memorialized on the Patagonia clothing label, and after two endless days of cramped travel we could hardly wait to lace up hiking boots and hit the trail. The evening was cut short as we all wandered off to our rooms to prepare for the morning’s early start. Diego’s wife would provide lunches and snacks for us to carry but my roommate and I still spent much of the evening packing and re-packing our daypacks as we tried to decide what to wear (Patagonia, like Oregon, called for layering) and how much gear to bring beyond the 10 Essentials.

Our first hike began with a short walk from our hotel to the Loma Del Pliegue Tumbado trailhead. We quickly rose above the steppe and cut through lenga (a type of beech tree) forests, their green, saw-edged leaves brushing our arms as we penetrated the dense growth. Diego told us the lenga leaves turn a striking red in autumn, not unlike the fiery fall colors of the American beech. Once emerged from the trees, we climbed sharply, gaining nearly 1,000 feet in the first couple of miles. Breathless and sweaty, I could feel each one of the 18 pounds on my back. As we continued the steady ascent to Laguna Torre, I wished I had been more diligent in my winter training and began to worry about the hut-to-hut hike portion of the adventure.

Once dropped at that trailhead, I was committed for the entire 38 miles; no cars, no roads, no escape, only the occasional ferry boat at the end of the trail. I pushed the apprehension out of my mind and

focused on keeping up.

After three or four hours of hiking, we scaled a broad ridge and stopped for lunch above glacier-fed Laguna Torre. National Geographic calls this perch one of the world’s best hikes and I could see why. The view of the southern faces of Cerro Torre and Mont Fitz Roy was worth the whole trip: powder blue glaciers, sparkling teal lakes and those towering peaks, etched in granite. Most of the group continued on up a steep rise above the lake to a higher vantage point where they enjoyed sweeping views of the mountains and pinnacles leading up to Fitz Roy: Techado Negro, Mojón Rojo, “S,” and Saint Exupery.

They also reported a fantastic view of the turquoise and white Torre Glacier. Three of us had opted to lounge in place, soaking up the warm sunshine from our own awesome vantage point of the lake with its breathtaking backdrop. It was with some reluctance that we finally roused ourselves from the heated stones and retraced the six miles back to town.

The next day we drove to the east side of the park and began our hike at Hosteria El Pilar. Again we found ourselves cutting through dense lenga forests and traversing a series of foothills to a steep scree slope.

We scrambled up and over huge boulders for what seemed at least half a mile before we reached Laguna de Los Tres. A huge glacier rimmed the northern edge of the cyan blue lake and stretched toward Fitz Roy’s craggy granite peak. We picnicked in shirtsleeves perched again on sunwarmed boulders. Huge chunks of blue ice calved noisily into the lake in front of us while barren steppes stretched off to the east as far as we could see. After lunch, we scrambled back down to the trail and continued west, descending through the foothills. Along the way, we stopped to soak our feet in the refreshingly cold waters of Laguna Capri before wandering wearily into town for one last night.

Two days of 12-plus mile hikes with a combined elevation gain of almost 5,000 feet was the perfect preparation for the longer backpacking trip to come. We reviewed our progress that evening over icy glasses of torrontés wine and Quilmes beer. Diego had assured us that with these two days of conditioning hikes under our belts, we would sail through the W circuit.

I hoped he was right.

The next day we said an early goodbye to Diego, thanked his darling wife for the fabulous lunches and climbed back

into our van. We were headed southwest for our first glimpse of the Continental Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest ice mass in the world. The day’s highlight was a boat trip that took us up close and personal with the incredible Perito Moreno Glacier. The boat tipped precariously toward the water as everyone rushed to the glacier-facing side to watch a gigantic wall of ice calve into the sapphire waters.

The huge volume of thundering ice caused a mini-tsunami and we felt like tiny corks bobbing on the water as the boat bounced on the wake.

That evening, we stored everything we would not need on our hut-to-hut adventure at our hotel in El Calafate; early the next morning, we drove to Chile. We arrived at the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park with varying sized packs; hard decisions around clean clothes, bedding, and especially cameras, snacks, liquor and Kindles added more weight for some, less for others. I opted for rented bedding, a tiny travel towel, and an oftrecycled wardrobe. I debated bringing my bottle of calafate liqueur to savor in the evenings but it was going to be a long trek with a lot of uphill. Plus, “roughing it” was all part of the adventure.

The W Circuit is the most popular hiking route in Torres del Paine Park.

Named for its shape, the trail offers perfectly spaced accommodations in the form of refugios—spartan, dormitorystyle lodges—or primitive campsites. We chose the refugios. These little oases in the wilderness offered increasing luxury as we traveled east from the Park’s Laguna Amarga entrance toward the western terminus at Lago Grey. Not only did the refugios provide hot showers and dining facilities, the classier ones sported bunks fitted with fluffy white comforters, comfy sofas in front of roaring wood fires, an assortment of local beers and wines and, best of all, unforgettable lake and mountain views. The accommodations were warm, dry and surprisingly clean.

The meals followed an unwavering predictable, college cafeteria-style formula—soup, starch and meat for dinner; powdered juices, instant coffee, eggs and cereal for breakfast. Our lodging package included a foreseeably predictably similar sack lunch: dense rolls encircling a whisper of meat, and mountains of trail mix, chocolate and fruit. They may have been heavy on carbs and modest on

continued on next page 43

Patagonia, continued from previous page protein, but they were filling and satisfying nonetheless.

Sara, our twenty-something Chilean guide on this five-night adventure, knew everything about the Park’s history, wildlife and vegetation. The fauna and flora she pointed out included the cinnamoncolored, llama-like guanacos, the blackfaced ibis, Magellanic woodpeckers, the threatened Darwin’s rhea, or ñandú (South America’s version of the ostrich), and more plants than I can remember. She was the first to spot the majestic Andean condors, with their 10-foot wingspans, soaring high above us on the thermals generated by sun-warmed granite cliffs. She explained that the park was home to an important breeding population of this endangered bird. Though the trails were well-marked and could have been hiked alone, Sara’s narratives so enriched our understanding of the area that we chose to hike in a group, rather than miss the benefits of a guided trip.

Our first leg of the W took us from Refugio Los Torres, just beyond the Park’s eastern entrance, up the Valle Ascencio for a close-up view of the three granite towers that dominate the park and give it its name. Under clear blue skies we climbed a mile of steep trail through the ubiquitous lenga forests to Refugio Chileno where we dropped our heavy packs and continued up and down moderately steep trails for another four miles. We replenished our water with glacial runoff straight from the streams. The clear, icy, unfiltered water was the best I’ve ever tasted.

The final push to the base of the towers was precipitous and demanding, and was capped off by a scramble across a boulder-strewn moraine field. The reward was worth every aching muscle: Andean condors soaring high above an emerald pool of glacial melt, then making lazy circles among the three rugged granite towers—Torre Sur, Torre Central and Torre Norte.

We awoke at Refugio Chileno to postcard-perfect weather, the sun playing hide and seek among cottony clouds. After a hard climb out of camp, we continued another seven miles along rolling terrain overlooking Lago Nordenskjöld. The powdered rock particles suspended in the water give the lake an intense blue-green color. Most of the other hikers we passed were small groups of twenty-somethings 44

from New Zealand, the Netherlands, France and Germany. They all greeted us on this sunny day with a friendly “hola.”

At midday we stopped to enjoy sack lunches and a perfect view of Los Cuernos del Paine, a horn-shaped mountain peak flanked by massive, hanging glaciers. Almost reluctantly, we packed Lago Nordenskjold on the W Circuit in Torres del Paine NP. Photo: Sue Griffith. up and continued along the lakeside trail until it tapered down toward of Torres del Paine Park for a week in Refugio Los Cuernos. This refugio enjoys a December 2011 and burned more than fantastic setting perched just above Lago 40,000 acres of native forest around Lake Nordenskjöld and nestled in the foothills Pehoe. She said the trees in the burned of Los Curenos, an enchanting spot where area grow very slowly in the fire-damaged dark green forest meets azure lake. soil and that newly planted trees will We retired early to rest up for what was take nearly 200 years to mature, a sober to be our longest and most strenuous reminder of the fragility of our natural hiking—a climb into the glacier-lined wonders.

French Valley. That night, the fabled By mid-afternoon we reached the Patagonian winds descended out of Refugio Paine Grande, packed with hikers. nowhere, rattling the walls of our bunk No one wanted to be outside. We crowded room and dumping buckets of rain around the fireplace and tried to dry out overhead. Rain was still pelting the our gear. From here it would be an easy refugio after daybreak, streaming down six-mile hike to the finish line. the windows and blurring the view. I The next morning the rain had pulled out all my rain gear, and draped diminished to a drizzle, but the wind in Goretex, began to slosh up the valley was severe. It whipped toward us from with our little group. Two miles later and the west, gathering an arctic chill as it soaked to the skin, we stopped at the first crossed Grey Glacier. Bundled in fleece viewing area. I could barely make out hats, gloves and long underwear, it felt like Cerro Paine Grande, the highest peak in we were embarking on a polar expedition the Paine range. The relentless rain and rather than enjoying a summer hike in low clouds turned us back down the valley Patagonia. We could see icebergs bouncing to the five-mile trail leading to Refugio on the windblown lake below, and fresh Paine Grande. This trail skirts two glacial snow dusting the peaks above. Even so, lakes—Lago Skottsberg and Lago Pehoé— as we started our final leg of the circuit, that we could barely make out through I felt a bit sad that the adventure was the downpour. It also traverses hillsides nearly over. I would miss the daily rhythm covered in pink and white foxglove, and of hike, eat, sleep, repeat. In my two plunges through fields of clover, the weeks in Patagonia, I had trekked more flowers’ heady scent permeating the heavy, than 60 miles and admired some of the damp air. In the distance we could hear most beautiful, iconic scenery on earth. the occasional boom of ice avalanches Paradise. tumbling down mysterious, unseen Now home again in Oregon, I’m sipping glaciers. We forgot all about the rain. my calafate berry liqueur and hoping the There was evidence of fire damage legend is true. across the landscape toward Lake ʯʯ Participants: Donovan Pacholl, leader; Joe Pehoe. Sara told us that wood fires were Whittington, assistant leader; Kate Evans, prohibited throughout the park because Sue Griffith, Mike Hahn, Steve Hooker, Greg a series of camper-sparked forest fires Olson, Byron Rendar, Liz Sinclair, Ingrid had devastated portions over the past Wehrle, Andrew Wheeler, Marja Wilson. ¾ dozen years. The last fire forced a closure

OUTINGS

es of Smoky Mountains in

hase Knob with seven ridg Mar y & Tony Spiering enjoy Purc background. Photo: Jim Selby.

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS

▶▶ May 10–18, 2014

by Jim Selby

Twenty-four hikers, led by Jim Selby and Dick Meissner, covered trails in the Great Smoky Mountains and Pisgah National Forest. We were blessed with beautiful views and mostly great weather that at times was punctuated with heat, humidity, wind, rain, cold and snow. Western North Carolina mountain culture was featured for three evenings, including a potluck hosted by the Haywood Hikers, Jim Selby’s former hiking group.

Our first hiking day, Sunday, May 11, included the northeastern portion of the Smokies called Purchase Knob on the Cataloochee Divide Trail. The views over the Smokies and Pisgah National Forest were stunning in bright sun on this 7½ mile hike. We navigated a swinging bridge and explored a cabin typical to housing that was used well into the 1950s. Day two found us hobnobbing with Appalachian Trail hikers on a portion of the AT just north of the Great Smoky Mountains known as Max Patch.

The views were so expansive on top of Max Patch that we pretended we were in The Sound of Music! The hills were alive with wildflowers and one cove offered thousands of trilliums in peak bloom.

Tuesday we split into two groups.

Dick took 12 hikers to Alum Creek Trail in Tennessee, a 10-mile, 2,900-foot hike to the top of Mt. LeConte and back.

Jim led his group of 12 into North Carolina’s Cataloochee Valley for the five-mile Little Cataloochee Trail along the creek of the same name. That night we had a fantastic time sharing stories about our great Northwest trails with 21 mountaineers from the Haywood Hikers.

Maggie Valley, North Carolina was our headquarters for the outing.

We “roughed it” at the Creekside Lodge with comfortable beds, a heated swimming pool, and the sound of Jonathan Creek all night.

Wednesday was a free day with many going to see the Vanderbilt Mansion in Asheville. After 2-½ inches of rain overnight we ended up back in that fascinating city Thursday for an 8-mile urban hike. That night we listened to Gary Carden and Ernestine Upchurch tell us tales of growing up in the area, including stories about moonshine legend Popcorn Sutton.

Charlies Bunion—yes, a real place on the Appalachian Trail—was our Friday destination. This 10-mile in-and-out hike begins at Newfound Gap, which connects North Carolina to Tennessee, and roughly follows the states’ shared boundary. We “weathered” this trail with sun, fog, rain, wind, and a bit of snow.

That evening we enjoyed a mountaintop dinner at Cataloochee Ranch and heard an expert on wolves who brought a wolf with him.

Our final hike took us to Looking Glass Rock (1500 feet), so named because early settlers in the area used the huge rock to set their bearings. This trail deep in Pisgah National Forest

near Brevard, North Carolina, rambles through tunnels of mountain laurel and rhododendron for three miles up the backside of the rock. On top of Looking Glass we had unobstructed views of mountain hardwoods in every direction.

Evaluations of the Outing were positive and we’re planning another trip to the Great Smoky Mountains in May 2016. ʯʯ Participants: Sue Armstrong, Mitch Auerbach, Carole Beauclerk, Bill Bens, Ann Brown, Daniel Chamness, Frank Dauz, Bill Dewsnap, Sharon Fekety, Diana Forester, Steve Hooker, Libbi Layton, Dick Meissner, Tom Nelson, Greg Olson, Linda Prinsen, Peggie Schwarz, Betty Selby, Jim Selby, Mary Spiering, Tony Spiering, Carol Swanson, Ann Truax, Karen Zocchi.

The group enjoying the to Alaska outing. Fro the sights during the North m left: Debi Danielso n, Zdenek Zumr, Lizzy Ma Jimenez. Photo: Tom y, Ally Imbody, Anna Bennett.

NORTH TO ALASKA

▶▶ March 20–28, 2014

by Tom Bennett

A week of brilliant sunshine and mild late winter weather greeted the “North to Alaska” outing participants in March 2014. We used the Spenard Hostel as a base while waiting for the various group members to arrive in Anchorage. The early arrivals—Tom, Debi and Lizzy— 45

used the extra time to drive along the scenic Turnagain Arm and encountered the first and only moose sighting of the week.

The second day, fortified with a hearty breakfast at the landmark Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant, the partiallyassembled group, now including Ally and Jon, picked up rental cross-country skis.

We visited Earthquake Park, overlooking Cook Inlet, before heading to the airport to pick up the last two group members, Zdenek and Anna.

Now in two rental vehicles, we started the drive to Talkeetna, stopping along the way for groceries in Wasilla. Three hours after leaving Anchorage, we turned onto Talkeetna Spur Road and soon stopped at the scenic viewpoint just outside of Talkeetna for a glorious view of Denali, Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter. A short time later, we arrived at our rental log cabin, the “Mangy Moose,” a cozy two-story, wellequipped place to stay for the week.

The next six days included many activities: exploring the cross-county ski trails from right outside the cabin door that often lured us to downtown Talkeetna to explore all the shops,

Talkeetna Ranger Station, doing a long, multi-stage zipline canopy tour, and attending a local presentation about the controversial proposed Susitna Dam Project. Every night the group was hopeful for seeing the aurora borealis, but it didn’t occur far enough south for us to see it in Talkeetna.

On the last morning in Talkeetna, we were visited by rookie Iditarod musher Lisbet Norris and four of her Iditarod dogs. Tom, with consultation from Zdenek, had made the mushing cooker that Lisbet had used during the race. We discussed how to improve the stove and her various experiences during the long race.

All too soon, it was time to head back to Anchorage and return flights home to Portland. ʯʯ Participants: Tom Bennett, leader; Ally Imbody, assistant leader; Debi Danielson, Anna Jimenez, Lizzy May, Jon Skeen, Zdenek Zumr.

NYC, MOTHER OF ALL STREET RAMBLES ▶▶

May 7–14, 2014

by John Davis & Steve Watts

Street rambles in Portland usually involve a combination of park trails, business sidewalks, and neighborhood streets. New York City is no different.

Just multiply this times 10,000.

This unusual trekking excursion involved a week of hiking and biking the extensive d, and surprisingly ar , Maggie Woodw , Sherry Socotch od ). go er ttle ad beautiful pedestrian Se (le la vis me Da Barbara Sack, Pa atts (co-leader). Photo: John A W ve path system of one of Ste ts, at Barb W the largest and oldest cities in the Western Hemisphere. It is a system eateries, and pubs; a fantastic afternoon of deep concrete canyons populated flight via Talkeetna Air Taxi to, and by indigenous cliff dwellers, where partially around, Denali with a glacial humanity is so dense it is stacked landing in the Ruth Gorge; a visit with vertically up to the clouds. a local musher at her dog yard where There was a great deal of learning we met all 22 dogs; and a day spent involved to make use of the very efficient driving to Denali Park, doing a short hike system of ferries, subways, commuter and then visiting the sled dogs at the trains and buses that the locals use in Denali National Park Service Kennels. lieu of the automobiles found in other Other activities included visiting the civilized areas. Using these local tools 46

in addition to our more familiar foot transport enabled this band of urban explorers to travel and investigate many more miles of new areas each day than would have been possible by car. The average automobile speed on Manhattan Island is 5 mph.

We lodged in a very nice shared apartment in the exclusive Upper West Side neighborhood just two blocks from Central Park. During our week of rambling, we made friends with several locals who served as our guides and interpreters. We were amazed to learn about the remarkable systems put in place to manage the infrastructure required to support the astonishing population density, something entirely foreign to us Portlanders.

Routes rambled: ▶▶ Upper West Manhattan down through Central Park, down through Times Square, across the Brooklyn Bridge and onto the East River Ferry, back up to 34th Street into Manhattan, past the Rockefeller Center and back across Central Park to lodging. ▶▶ Upper West Manhattan Ramble through the Highline to the 9/11 Memorial then via ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, then on to walk around Staten Island. ▶▶ Day trip to the Brooklyn Museum and Brooklyn Botanical Gardens (8-10 miles of walking). ▶▶ Hiking through Central Park to get to “Museum Row” on the Upper East side of Manhattan. The Guggenheim on Saturday night was free, though Outing members had to struggle across Central Park in an umbrellabending downpour to reach the museum. ▶▶ We attended two Broadway musicals: Wicked and A Gentlemen’s Guide to Murder. ▶▶ We saw one Off-Broadway show: The Bubble Show. ▶▶ American Museum of Natural History (6-9 miles). ▶▶ Bike trip around shore of Manhattan Island one day and on another day a 40-mile bike ride to Coney Island. ▶▶ AmTrak train ride and hike along the Long Beach boardwalk (6 miles). ▶▶ Ramble through Harlem to catch the MTA Hudson River Line to the trail called Walkway Over the Hudson.

(Poughkeepsie to Highland, New York).

The leader would like to thank the co-leader, Steve Watts, for all the enhancements, insights and enthusiasm he brought to the outing. ʯʯ Participants: John A. Davis, leader; Steve Watts, assistant leader; Barbara Sack, Pamela Settlegood, Sherry Socotch, Barb Watts, Maggie Woodward.

CHAMONIX

▶▶ July 7–22, 2014

by Lisa Brady

Chamonix has an endless list of high quality rock, snow, and ice climbs. The town is not only an appealing place for rest and relaxation, but also for grabbing a café au lait before jumping on a cable car that will transport you to the launching pad of a 12,500-foot free climb.

A week of rain and high-country snow greeted our group, forcing us to postpone much of our climbing. Undeterred, we sought out other adventures. We hiked, visited tourist destinations, and went parasailing--things we may have missed if the weather had remained dry.

On this year’s return trip to Chamonix,

Arête des Cosmiques, from left: Justin Brady, Bridget Martin, Gary Ballou. Photo: Lisa Brady.

six members of our group summited Mt. Blanc via the Gouter route. Multiple members of the team also experienced the Arête des Cosmiques, a popular classic route on the Mt. Blanc Massif. ▶▶ Aug. 31–Sept. 12, 2014 New routes completed during this trip included several multi-pitch rock and

by Paul Gerald mixed routes on Papillon Arête, North Face of Tacul, Pyramide du Tacul, L‘Index Aiguille d’Entrèves.

For some, this was a return to Chamonix to tackle unfinished climbs from previous visits; for others this was a firsttime international climbing excursion. In all cases we were rewarded with spectacular views, unforgettable adventures, and close camaraderie. The photos don’t do it justice; you’ll have to go and see for yourself. ʯʯ Participants: Lee Davis, On top of M leader; Lisa Brady, assistant; o Apuane Alp nte Croce in the Garf Chuck Aude, Gary Ballou, ag s Malone, Ju in the background. Ba nana Valley, with the dy ck row: Paul Jonathan Barrett, Justin Brady, Peterkort, To Olivier, Melanie Ho lmes, Bill Le Gerald, Bob ny Spiering Page, Bob David Carrier, Andrew Holman, , Gwen Pete (guide). Fro nt rk Photo: Paul row: Cindy Rust, Chr ort, Silvio Toccafond Bridget Martin, Jonathan Myers, is Soland, M i Gerald. ary Spierin g.

Sandee Myers, Brad Unruh.

HIKING AND TOURING IN TUSCANY AND CINQUE TERRE

47

“Perpetual State of Astonishment.” That became the motto of the 2014 Mazama outing to Tuscany and Cinque Terre.

Astonishment is pretty much the only conclusion possible when you combine terrific hiking, fantastic scenery, amazing people, and some of the best meals of your life. In fact, the pre-trip description of “A and B hikes with C meals” also sums it up pretty well.

After meeting in Florence and enjoying a rooftop dinner with a view of the city, we moved on to Lucca and the Garfagnana Valley, tucked between the Apuane Alps to the west and the Appenines to the east.

We hiked here for two days—hikes with sprawling mountain-and-forest views broken up with the occasional medieval village, rocky peak, or glimpse of the ocean. We ate in private homes, “slowfood” restaurants, and even a private dining club that we walked to from up high.

Next it was off to the famous coastal villages of Cinque Terre, where we hiked the vine-covered hills, swam in the sea, and ate more fabulous meals. Some of us even rode in tiny one-rail trains through the vines and we all capped it off with a private boat ride, our arrival in town greeted with marching bands. We all left with big smiles and full bellies.

We wrapped things up with four days of roaming the Tuscan hills, soaking in hot pools, touring famous frescoes, meandering through the impossibly charming Chianti countryside, and yes, eating more of the greatest food on earth.

The fact that we closed it out with an accordion-accompanied family sing-along actually seems too good to be true, but it happened. ʯʯ Participants: Paul Gerald, leader; Margaret Smith, assistant leader; Bill LePage, Bob Malone, Judy Olivier, Bob Peterkort, Gwen Peterkort, Melanie Holmes, Cindy Rust, Chris Soland, Mary Spiering, Tony Spiering.

48

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK

▶▶ Aug. 16–23, 2014

by Richard Getgen

instantly. The volcano had quieted before the two men reached the base of the mountain. They returned to the summit for Graham and found him partly buried in ash, alive. Years later Lance Graham reflected on this experience, “We went up to see what it was doing, and we found out what was going on. You couldn’t see anything after it blew up because of the smoke, ash and rocks. I wasn’t scared a bit; I just thought we were all killed. I’ll never climb that peak again.”

By the time Lassen’s volcanic activity came to an end in 1921, more than 390 eruptions had been recorded. A century later, two-dozen

On May 30, 1914, Lassen Peak in California, the southernmost active volcano in the Cascade Range, awoke from a 27,000-year-long slumber. A steam blast occurred when molten rock pushed toward the surface, heating shallow ground water. The hot water rose through cracks and, upon reaching the surface, vaporized.

On May 22, 1915, an explosive eruption at Lassen Peak devastated nearby areas and rained volcanic ash as far away as 200 miles.

This explosion was the most powerful in the 1914–17 series of eruptions at Mazamas at G randview on La the 10,457-foot ssen Peak with background. Ph Brokeoff Mtn in oto: Richard G the etgen. peak, the largest of a group of more than 30 volcanic domes in Lassen Volcanic National Park in northern California.

Mazamas walked the On the morning of June 14, 1915, trails of Lassen Volcanic National Park Benjamin Franklin Loomis, a local over six sunny days in August. The peak businessman and amateur photographer, has quieted substantially since the early recorded a 9:43 a.m. eruption on six 1900s, but hydrothermal features at photographic plates. It was the eleventh Bumpass Hell and Devils Kitchen serve as recorded eruption from Lassen Peak reminders of the activity under our feet. since activity began in 1914. That same The trails we walked included Lassen morning, R.E. Phelps, F.A. Tipple, and Peak to Grandview Vista (the upper Lance Graham reached the summit. section of the trail is in its last year of Looking into the new crater, the three reconstruction.), Bumpass Hell, Brokeoff men could feel the approaching blast that Mountain, Prospect Peak, Chaos Crags, Loomis was busy photographing from Cinder Cone-Snag Lake, Butte Lakebelow. They ran from the crater as ash Widow Lake, Cluster Lakes, Terraceand rocks fell around them. One rock, Shadow-Cliff Lakes, Kings Creek-Summit twice the size of a man’s fist, hit Graham Lake, and Boiling Springs-Devils Kitchen. on the shoulder and knocked him to the Our base camp was the KOA at ground, unconscious. Phelps and Tipple Shingletown, fourteen miles west of kept running through the ash cloud that Lassen’s Manzanita Lake entrance. It was engulfed them. This was a mild eruption; a pleasant, well landscaped setting to a stronger blast would have suffocated return at the end of each day. While the them; a hot one would have killed them wildfires to the north did not compromise

the air quality, they did reduce the number of tourists in the park; only the Bumpass Hell trail was crowded. ʯʯ Participants: Richard Getgen, leader; Robert Smith, assistant leader; Mitch Auerbach, Carol Beauclerk, Sue Brickey, Ann Brown, Michael Earp, Ursula Edlund, Tracy Elliott, Carol Getgen, Marty Hanson, Shah Iranshad, Carolyn Jenkins, Angie Larson, Rose McManus, Mary May, Jill Nathman, Gisela Piercy, Cheryl Polan, Kibbey Rock, Barbara Sack, Maxine Schwartz, Larry Solomon, Kitty Tsoi, Joey Zarosinski.

EXPLORING UTAH’S NATIONAL PARKS

▶▶ Sept. 28–Oct. 12, 2014

by Bob Breivogel

This outing traveled nearly 2,500 miles round trip to Utah to see Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Zion National Parks, as well as Dead Horse State Park, Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, and Natural Bridges National Monument. Our nights were generally spent in campgrounds in or near the parks while we did day hikes to various areas.

We convened at the Goose Island BLM campground outside Arches National Park under unsettled and showery weather on September 28. The following day we hiked to Devils Garden, Delicate Arch, and Windows Arches in Arches National Park.

On September 30, we hiked around Dead Horse Point in Dead Horse State Park and that afternoon drove a short way to the Island in the Sky segment of Canyonlands Park. There we hiked to Grand View Point, Mesa Arch, and Upheaval Dome.

On October 1, we moved south to the very nice Wooden Shoe group camp in the Needles district of Canyonlands for two nights. The first afternoon we hiked the Slickrock trail, followed by the Potholes. The second day there we did the Chesler Park hike, and some of our group continued onto the Joint Trail to do a longer 11 mile loop.

On October 3, we moved to Natural Bridges National Park, and were lucky to grab five campsites in the small campground. That afternoon we hiked the Sipapu to Kachina bridge loop—more

Canyon and set up camp. In the afternoon we hiked the Navajo Trail and to Queens Garden from Sunset Point.

Our last stop was Zion National Park where we camped at the Watchman Campground for three nights.

We hiked to Angels Landing, Weeping Wall, Hidden Canyon, Emerald Pools, and along the Riverside walk while there. ʯʯ Participants: Bob Zion National Park, Summit of Angels Landing. From left: Breivogel, leader; Bob Smith, David Whalen, Reuel Kurzet, Vicki Borden, Cloudy Sears, assistant leader; Mark Beyer, Vicki Leigh Schwarz, Pam Rigor. Photo: Bob Breivogel.

Borden, Ann Brown, Diana Forrester, Sue Griffith, Flora Huber, Reuel Kurzet, Pam Rigor, Fenella Robinson, strenuous than expected. The next day we Leigh Schwarz, Cloudy Sears, Joey drove to Boulder and the Thousand Lakes Zarosinski, David Whalen.

RV campground, just outside Capitol Reef National Park, staying three nights in a rather nice tenting area, offering showers and laundry facilities.

At Capitol Reef we did the Golden ▶▶ Oct. 18–25, 2014 Throne, Cassidy Arch, Hickman Bridge (plus the longer overlook for some of us), Sunset Point and the Goosenecks. On

by Karen Suher and John Long October 7, we drove the Notom-Bullfrog And what a “grand” trip it was! Led and Burr Trail roads to Escalante, with a

by Gary Bishop and assisted by David short hike up Surprise Canyon en route.

Burdick, our group of seven Mazamas That night we camped at Escalante enjoyed a week in the Grand Canyon Petrified Forest State Park and the backpacking rim to rim and more. After a following morning we hiked the Petrified first permit was denied we were relieved Forest and Sleeping Rainbow trails. to hear that a second application was Later in the morning we drove to Bryce approved and we were rewarded with

GRAND CANYON

Grand Canyon. From left: Whit Fellers, Karen Suher, David Burdick, John Long, Greg Clark, Sue Dimin, Gary Bishop. Photo: Karen Suher.

49

perfect weather—sunny, dry, highs of 70 to 85 degrees, and lows of 45-60 degrees.

We covered a total of 58 to 79 miles (depending on side/alternate trips taken) and were able to experience the uniqueness of the canyon with its amazing geologic layers, formations and colors.

Our route took us from the plateau rim down through serpentine side canyons, out onto broad desert terraces and across the dark inner gorge. We passed through numerous life zones whose vegetation changed with the elevation, aspect and available moisture. Particularly striking (and potentially injurious we found out) were the yucca, cacti, and agave with its stiff spine-tipped leaves and soaring flower stalks. Wildlife sightings were limited but included a large bull elk, many mule deer, large spiders, snakes and lizards.

Saturday, October 18, six of us (Greg Clark drove down from Utah) flew from Portland to Las Vegas, picked up a rental van, and drove the 270 miles to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. After a quick sunset peek at the canyon we headed to Mather Campground for our first night.

Sunday morning we caught the 8 a.m.

Trans Canyon shuttle for the 4½ hour ride to the North Rim. Along the way we enjoyed the blue skies

and broad vistas, and as we rose higher, the ponderosa pine forests dotted with golden quaking aspen. Our hiking started at the North Kaibab Trailhead, from which we descended 6.9 miles through Roaring Springs and then Bright Angel Canyons to Cottonwood Campground. Monday we continued down Bright Angel Canyon with an early side trip to the very pretty Ribbon Falls. Just before Phantom Ranch, we headed east on the Clear Creek Trail, rising directly above Phantom Ranch to the plateau, giving us grand views of the inner gorge and its imposing geologic formations. After nine dry miles our trail descended to Clear Creek and its backcountry sites where we camped for two nights. Tuesday, two of us rested in camp while the other five embarked on an all-day exploration of Clear Creek Canyon on an unmaintained, cairn-marked trail.

Near the head of the canyon we scrambled up a scree slope to view two small waterfalls near our goal for the day--the unfortunately dry Cheyava Falls, which is the tallest falls in the Grand Canyon area when flowing.

Wednesday we retraced our steps along the Clear Creek Trail, finally descending to Phantom Ranch for cold drinks and lunch in the shade. We then split into two groups to cross the Colorado River. Two hikers opted for the shorter, more direct crossing on the downstream Silver Bridge. The other five opted for a side trip to view ancient Puebloan

ruins. They crossed at Black Bridge, which enters directly into a tunnel, just in time to see a mule train coming down on a dramatic section of the river trail. We all continued up the Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden, a large campground on this main hiking corridor. Thursday we headed west on the Tonto West Trail, with three of us rising early to enjoy the sunrise at Plateau Point. The trail wound along Tonto plateau passing in and out of the beautiful canyons of Horn, Salt, and Monument Creeks and finally to Hermit’s Creek, our last campsite. Upon arrival, two of us made a dash down the narrow canyons of Hermit’s Creek to roaring Hermit’s Rapids on the Colorado River. Friday, our final day, was a 7.6 mile ascent to Hermit’s Rest Trailhead through aptly named Cathedral Stairs and other stunning formations and wonders of trail construction. A controlled burn had filled the canyon with smoke and the haze limited visibility until we rose higher and breezes stirred the air.

Up on top we enjoyed refreshments at the Hermit’s Rest concession before catching the park shuttle back to Bright Angel Lodge. Greg and Whit headed off to Utah and Flagstaff and the rest of us enjoyed much-needed showers at Mather Camper Services before piling in the van for a return trip to Las Vegas for the night.

A great itinerary, accommodating leaders and a friendly, cohesive group made this a rewarding trip for everyone.

Thanks to all! ʯʯ Participants: Gary Bishop, leader; David Burdick, assistant leader; Greg Clark, Sue Dimin, Whit Fellers, John Long, Karen Suher. ¾

Additional Outings can be found in the Features section: ▶Patagonia: ▶ February 8–22, 2014 ▶Italian ▶ Dolomites: May 31–June 15, 2014 ▶Corsica: ▶ June 14–30, 2014

ing the ring Springs canyon dur Descending through Roa er.

Suh . Photo: Karen Grand Canyon outing

50

COMMITTEE REPORTS 20S AND 30S MAZAMAS

by Matt Reeder

Over the past year, our committee has undergone big changes. First and foremost, we changed our name.

Formerly known as Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM), we are now the 20s and 30s Mazamas, a name that best reflects who we are—the young and the young at heart. In addition to the name change, we joined Meetup and have consequently attracted a greater number of new hikers and several new hike leaders.

Not everything changed this year. We were still able to host a number of annual traditions. Among these was Winter Weekend, with about 60 participants and a number of great hikes in spite of the lack of snow; our annual spring trip to the Nesika Lodge in conjunction with the Trails Club of Oregon; and a Labor Day trip to Central Oregon, which drew 18 participants and was great fun. We led a number of excellent hikes this year, and with participation via Meetup, almost every hike filled up. Finally, we have continued to host Climb Nights and Pub Nights on a monthly basis, all of which have benefitted greatly from the fresh energy that Meetup has provided for us. 20s and 30s Mazama Committee continues to work to attract new participants and encourage Mazama membership through our Facebook fan page and our wildly successful Meetup page. ʯʯ Committee Members: Beth Copeland and Daniel Mick, co-chairs; Keith Dechant, Erin Devlin, Jessica Lackey, Matt Reeder, Colleen Sinsky. Sojo Hendrix, Executive Council Liaison

Subcommittees are indicated with (p)

CRITICAL INCIDENT STRESS MANAGEMENT

by Marina Wynton

The Critical Incident Stress Management team (CISM) is a group of trained peers and mental health professionals tasked with providing support to Mazama members who have experienced accidents and are dealing with trauma as a result. The committee was formed in 1992 in the wake of an accident on Mt. Shuksan. Katie Foehl, an original founding member of the committee, wrote an article describing the history of CISM. “Mazama Debriefing Team Celebrates 22 Years of Service” was published in the Mazama Bulletin, August 2014.

Regular activities of the committee, such as ongoing training in CISM, outreach presentations to various programs and committees and bi-monthly meetings continued this year as in previous years.

As a result of the April 2014, avalanche in the Khumbu Ice Fall on Mt. Everest that killed 16 Sherpa guides, Conrad and Jenni Lowe Anker invited CISM members to Nepal to provide support to grieving families. On August 20, a successful fundraiser was held to send a team of three to Kathmandu and the Khumbu region. Speakers at the fundraiser included Peter Zuckerman, author of Buried in the Sky; Lhapka Rita, renowned Sherpa climber, and Bob Peirce, a longtime Mazama member and former Nepal trek leader. The team departed on October 23 and returned November 19. In addition, the committee is helping create a document that will guide Westerners in how best to interact with the people of Nepal. The document will be made available through the Mazamas and The Alex Lowe Foundation. ʯʯ Committee Members: Marina Wynton, chair; Greg Scott, vice chair; Jim Farley, Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal*, Katie Foehl, Mary Green, Annie McCartney, Sandy Ramirez*, Noelle Savatta*, Colleen Sinsky, Karen Vernier*. Joan Zuber, Executive Council Liaison ʯʯ * Licensed Mental Health Professional

MAZAMA CLASSICS

by Rose Marie Gilbert, Dick Miller and Lanning Russell

At the Old Timers Holiday party we distributed surveys to find what the members want from the group.

The common threads were the desire for fellowship with other long-time Mazamas, social events, and outdoor activities—hikes, climbs, backpacks, and outings—at a more leisurely pace.

In January, we held a brainstorming session to reimagine the Old Timers and decided to have a six-month Task Force to restart the committee. The Task Force changed the name of the committee to the Classic Mazamas (hat tip to Ray Sheldon) and created a mission statement: “Classic Mazamas offer yearround activities targeting members of 25 years or more, or those 55 years or older, or those who prefer to travel at a leisurely pace.”

At our introductory meeting in September, Dick Miller, Rose Marie Gilbert, and Lanning Russell agreed to be co-chairs; Darlene Nelson will be the communications manager; and Dyanne Foster and Gail O’Neill will help with the potlucks before the Wednesday program meetings.

Some of our activities this year have been the December Holiday party, March lunch, July 5th potluck picnic at Dick and Jane Miller’s, September lunch at the Lodge, potlucks before program meetings in October and November and a visit to the Grand Canyon photography exhibit at the Forestry Center.

Walks included Oaks Bottom, Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden, Dry Creek Falls, Beacon Rock, Fort Vancouver, Lookout Mountain, Springwater Corridor, Triple Falls and Lake Oswego art and history.

New 25-year members: David Anderson, Marilyn Arentz, Natalie Arndt, Jay Avery, Ruth Baker, George Balmer, Cameron Bangs, Betty Barker, Thomas Brewer, Michael Bruns, Debbie Chung, Jo Connolly, Rick Croy, Gregory Dardis, Bob Day, Ramona Duskin, Jerry Eline, Jane Ewert, Gloria Fisher, Diana Forester, 51

Ron Fraback, Susan Leader Development Hebert, Lehman (LD) program has Holder, Mary Hollen, 21 candidates, six Mark Hosko, David provisional leaders Huntley, Jay Johnson, and has promoted Alice Johnson, Richard four climb leaders. The Joslin, Joe Kellar, committee seldom has Cassandra Kelly, a meeting where we Hanna Klett, Jerome don’t approve at least LaBarre, Jerry Lamer, one new candidate or Pat LeFebvre, Bob provisional leader for McGown, Wilma the program.

McNulty, Colleen Once the Climbing Mershon, Bill Meyer, Committee has Nancy Meyer, Herbert identified an LD Mueller, David candidate we know Nelson, John Newell, how to develop that Charles O’Connor, person as a climb Carl Page, Joe Palena, leader. The harder task Barbara Parker, is to determine who the Thomas Petrich, potential leaders may Malcolm Pompe, be. This year, volunteer Rick Quackenbush, coordinator Kati Rebecca Richardson, Mayfield stepped up to Kent Robarge, work on that problem.

Kibbey Rock, Kati developed Sam Romanaggi, the “Leadership Liz Schilling, Bill Cohort” program, Schlippert, Merrill ran the program and Schneider, Bill Stein, organized a supporting Henryk Urbanski, committee. The goal is William Valach, Darrel to identify and develop Van Coevering, Art new leaders for the Walker, Adrianne club, and not exclusively Wesol, Robyn climb leaders. The first Drakeford Wonser, class graduated 23 Greg Willmarth belaying Ben Grandy as he down climbs from the summit of Mt. Hood on June 8, 2014. Photo by Shakul Tandon.

David Zeps. potential club leaders.

New 50-year The other challenge members: Craig the Climbing Anderson, Mitchell Bower, Richard Committee faces is the retention of Eaton, Charles Feris, Toni Leuthold, existing leaders. This year the Climbing John MacDaniels, Jeanne Mackie, Linda Committee reviewed and evaluated

by Bill McLoughlin Nelson, Andree Stevens, Jerry Tanquist, the current climb leader continuing Over the last several years the Climbing Richard Trusky, Gerry Tunstall. education requirements and saw Committee has been in transition. We Congratulations new members! room for improvement. With support had been responsible for running the ʯʯ Committee Members: Rose Marie Gilbert, from Executive Director Lee Davis we various Mazama climbing classes. Once Dick Miller, Lanning Russell, co-chairs; developed a conceptual plan to update those education responsibilities were Dyanne Foster, Diana Gordon, Hal and redesign the climb leader continuing transferred to the Education Committee, Howard, Kent Meyer, Darlene Nelson, Gail education requirements. The end result the Climbing Committee started the O’Neill, Heather Rosenwinkel. Kate Evans, will be a new document of current best process of resolving loose ends and Executive Council Liaison practices and guidance to replace the Ian adapting to its new mission. In order for Wade report, which has been the guiding the Mazamas to develop new programs document for the Mazamas since 1998. or classes, available climb leaders While the Mazama staff has always are required. The new mission of the been helpful to the Climbing Committee, Climbing Committee is that of a service the active working relationship and organization—to recruit, develop, train strategy development in conjunction and retain climb leaders. with the staff is more significant than Under Doug Wilson’s leadership, the ever. This year the Climbing Committee

CLIMBING

52

started a project to get some anchor bolts placed at Horsethief Butte to help with the setup and safety for BCEP. After getting the ball rolling, we engaged Adam Baylor on the project not only to get some bolts installed, but to resurrect the “Horsethief Butte Management Plan” in cooperation with the Washington State Parks.

Another major improvement made this year, which was enabled by the staff, was delivering an ongoing leader status report. Each leader receives an update of their climb leader continuing education requirement status quarterly. George Cummings, John Meckel, Jamie Anderson, and Sarah Bradham were all instrumental in making the project a success.

An ongoing concern of the Climbing Committee is the number of available climbs. Part of the issue is perception on the part of the potential climbers and the resources available. But the Climbing Committee is always striving to open up and increase opportunities to get people engaged. Last year the Climbing Committee supported two new programs—a Trail Trips program for summit hikes and the Family Climb Committee.

To meet our goals in 2015 the Climbing Committee will need ideas, support and an occasional belay to succeed. But this time next year I intend to report on the increasing number of LD candidates, the higher retention rate of climb leaders, a new governing and guidance document for the Climbing Committee, the new CLEC program and even more Mazamas having fun in the mountains. ʯʯ Committee Members: Bill McLoughlin, chair; Larry Beck, Justin Brady, Lisa Brady, George Cummings, Walter Keutel, Eileen Kiely, Lynne Pedersen, George Shay, Ted Slupesky, Doug Wilson.

CONSERVATION

by John Rettig

Over the last year the Conservation Committee has been active advocating for conservation policy; awarding and administering grants to conservation partners; and engaging and educating our membership and community on important environmental issues.

The Mazamas Conservation Committee worked with local coalitions,

land managers and public land management agencies to develop advocacy positions that support Mazama values and interests. We submitted multiple comments on land management in the Mt. Hood National Forest and Columbia Gorge. The committee submitted letters in support of protecting Bumping Lake, Tongas NF, Owyhee Canyonlands, as well as the Antiquities Act. For the 2014 grants cycle we approved the distribution of $18,500 in grant funds for conservation partners: Crag Law Center, Jason Lee instructs a student in the Intermediate Snow Friends of Mt. Hood, Climbing Mini-Course.

Gifford Pinchot Task Force, Hells Canyon Preservation Council, Oregon Natural Desert Association, Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility and Oregon Wild.

by Marty Scott The committee and volunteers The Education Committee consists of organized and participated in the fall the Education Core Committee and the tree planting event in the Sandy Basin Full Education Committee, made up of and the spring tree planting event on the the chairs of each of the schools.

Salmon River. We hosted a book reading One of the critical tasks of the from Conserving Oregon’s Environment Education Committee is to hold the with Mike McCloskey, organized a annual scheduling meeting in May Peregrine Falcon seminar with Dr. Joel where subcommittee chairs come Pagel and supported collaboration together to lay out their schedules for the between climbers and monitoring upcoming year. This meeting provides efforts. The Conservation Committee an opportunity to identify conflicts of hosted a “Mountaineering 101” climbing dates, locations and resources, and to course for the Oregon Wild Conference, work together to resolve those conflicts. represented Mazamas at the Federation After the completion of this meeting of Western Outdoor Clubs and AAC and validation of the schedule, dates Sustainable Summits conferences, are transferred to the Mazama master supported “Kids for Conservation” youth calendar. outreach initiatives with Leave No Trace, During the 2014 fiscal year, the and planned and hosted the Mazamas Education Committee, with assistance Wilderness Act 50th Anniversary from the members of the subcommittees, Conference and Celebration. ʯʯ Committee Members: Ally Imbody and continued to offer skill-builders in John Rettig, co-chairs; Mitch Auerbach, belaying, wilderness navigation, Tom Bard, Barry Buchanan, Steve wilderness navigation with GPS, Couche, Walter Keutel, Mason Purdy, conditioning for alpine climbing, basic Barbara Weiss, Barbara Wilson, Christine rock skills, level 1 avalanche, crevasse Yankel. Heather Campbell, Executive rescue, snow camping, rock anchors, ice Council Liaison climbing, youth climbing, and mountain photography. Due to increased demand, an additional session of rock anchors

EDUCATION

53

was offered. A new skill builder was offered in mountain running.

The curriculum for the new Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) class was approved and the year-long class for kids eight and older and their parents began in September.

Again this year, the Education Committee offered the Instructor Training Class (ITC) to Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) instructors and offered an adapted version of the course to climb leaders at the Fall Leader Update offered by the Climbing Committee.

The Education Committee continued to work with the Climbing Committee to finalize the Scope and Sequence document for Advanced Rock (AR) and Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI). Additional work will be required to complete this task.

The Education Committee’s goals for the future are to: ▶▶ Replace members lost this year and expand membership of the core committee ▶▶ Continue to expand skill-builders ▶▶ Offer ITC to additional instructors and other schools ▶▶ Work with the Climbing Committee to complete scope and sequence for AR and ASI ʯʯ Committee Members: Marty Scott, chair; Rayce Boucher, Eric Kennedy, Ted Light, Daniel Mick, Doug Pratt, Paul Steger.

Terry Donahe, Executive Council Liaison

54

Stephanie Spence on the Eliot Glacier during ASI. Photo: Tyler Bax.

▲▲ ADVANCED ROCK

▲▲ ADVANCED SNOW & ICE

by Ray Belt

by Steve Heikkila

The course, for all intents and purposes, continues to be run by volunteers. This year we drew approximately 50 volunteers from a pool of more than 300. The class ran from the beginning of March through the end of May and consisted of a kick-off meeting, 12 three-hour lectures, 12 days for fieldsessions, two private climbing trips, and a nine-day work/climb volunteer stewardship trip to Tuolumne Meadows in late summer.

Twenty-four students were chosen from a pool of 43 applicants. All students were/are Mazama members and all 24 students graduated: Sharon Birchfield, Benjamin Cline, Megan Coker, Amy Driscoll, Alex Fox, Victor Galotti, David Goldstein, Amy Goodwin, Laura Guderyahn, Philip Hunter, Ally Imbody, Forrest Koran, Jason Lee, Suzanne Lee, Micah Mayes, Andrea McKee, Dian Ott, Tim Scott, Jonathan Skeen, Ted Slupesky, Mason Smith, Brad Unruh, Brian Wetzel, Roger Wong. ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Ray Belt, lead coordinator; Nate Mullen, assistant coordinator; Spencer Leek, student coordinator; Hye Kwon, assistant student coordinator; Rebecca Schob, lecture coordinator; Kat Buckspan, field instructor and assistants coordinator; Chris Simmons, field instructor and assistants coordinator; Stephanie Spence, field session and trip coordinator.

Out of a total applicant pool of 14, eight students were accepted into and completed the Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI) program this year. Thanks to good weather and a very strong batch of students, the class went extremely well.

Field sessions were held on Mt. Hood’s White River and Eliot Glaciers, and on Mt. Baker’s Coleman Glacier.

In an effort to alleviate the burden that managing the entire course presents to a single lead course coordinator, and to diversify the educational experience for students, this year the ASI Subcommittee also transitioned fully to a team-lead course coordination model. For each training module, one or a pair of subject matter experts take responsibility for the entire module, including developing and delivering the lectures (in much the way ICS operates) and coordinating and leading the weekend field session.

This allows a variety of instructors to participate in managing the course.

The ASI Subcommittee also provided and continued to refine two new course offerings: an Intermediate Snow Climbing Mini-Course, conducted on the White River Glacier, and the Ice Climbing Skill Builder, conducted on the Eliot Glacier.

Finally, last year the ASI Subcommittee coordinated the development of plan designs for an indoor ice and mixed climbing wall for the Mazama Mountaineering Center. This year the committee took further steps

toward making this ice wall a reality by organizing a fundraising event which, including contributions made by ASI Subcommittee members, generated approximately $29,000. This funding was sufficient to proceed with the construction and installation of the wall, which is currently underway. ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Steve Heikkila, chair; Wim Aarts, Lisa Brady, Keith Campbell, Derek Castonguay, Jason Lee, Nate Mullen, Jed Stasch, Keith Thomajan.

▲▲ BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM

by Andrew Bodien

2014 was an ambitious year for the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). The BCEP Committee took on many new initiatives. BCEP sold out, with 278 applicants. At the beginning of BCEP there were 233 students. Of that, 227 completed all of the requirements for BCEP. Summer BCEP enrolled 12 additional students.

A thorough review of the BCEP curriculum was completed. We determined which changes could be realistically implemented this year and which changes could be addressed in the upcoming years. As a result of this review

we generated a detailed list of BCEP Student Objectives.

There were also major changes made to the Written and Skill Assessments. To free up time during the Skill Assessments we put the Written Assessment online.

We also tested students on belaying from above the pitch, instead of a top rope belay. The criteria for the Skill Assessment were rewritten so it was very clear whether or not a student had mastered the skills. Finally, scoring for the Skill Assessment was done online.

There were two specialized teams in BCEP this year. For the second year in a row there was an all female team.

In addition, after doing some research the committee decided there was enough demand to create a BCEP team that would have its field sessions on a weekday.

The committee got permission to include the autoblock in the BCEP curriculum. We prepared for this new material by producing an instructional video, educating BCEP Leaders at the Leader Orientation and revising the required gear list. ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Andrew Bodien, coordinator; Chris Kruell, assistant coordinator; April Berlin, Matt Blecharz, Jeff Jackson, Susan Jeltsch, Reuel Kurezt, Kristen Labudda, Josh Lockerby, Daniel Mick, Scott Osbron, Virginia Tarango, Darrell Weston.

▲▲ FIRST AID

by Erin Wirtz & Justin Colquhoun

MFA, CPR, and moulage, oh my!

This year we had more than 80 students go through Mountaineering First Aid (MFA). This in-depth training continues to prove valuable, as all too often Mazamas are the first on the scene at accidents.

MFA was offered twice this past year, fall and winter. One additional recertification course was also offered. We are

excited to offer a similar schedule for the coming year.

Surveys indicate that students find the weekend skill session to be a fun and empowering experience. Moulage ( fake blood) and victim actors create a realistic setting that allows students to synthesize lessons and put their new skills to work in controlled, yet life-like scenarios.

Special thanks to Steve Pozel who has been sharing his expertise as a CPR instructor in over a dozen CPR classes this past year. We are currently supporting others who are working towards becoming certified instructors so that we can expand CPR offerings.

Over the past few years we have experienced a turnover in our membership. While this has led to some organizational challenges it has also created exciting new opportunities.

The committee is looking forward to continuing to develop, improve, and expand our offerings, and train more MFA instructors. We can always use more people interested in helping with the committee. If you are interested in joining us, please contact us at firstaid@ mazamas.org. ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Erin Wirtz and Justin Colquhoun, co-chairs; April Berlin, Kim Edger, Ardel Frick, Nicole Gaines, Sarah Holmes, Janette Pipkin, Steve Polzel, Ruth Ann Reynolds, and our instructors.

▲▲ INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL

by Gary Ballou

Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) 2013-14 began with an initial group of 43 students. Thirty-seven of those students made it through the program this year and 34 graduated. The remaining students will have an opportunity to graduate with next year’s class after making up missed sessions. Forty ICS students also assisted BCEP this year.

We strengthened the entrance requirements for our optional Sport Lead rock-climbing module, and 16 students took the class. Nine were current ICS students, and seven were ICS alumni from previous years.

BCEP Assistant and ICS graduate Teresa Redman spots BCEP student Bridget Austin on a fixed line at Horsethief Butte.

55

Ninety-six volunteers assisted with the class this year, including our lecturers, classroom assistants and field session instructors.

Thirty-three were climb leaders.

Others were Leadership Development candidates, Advanced Rock graduates, Avalanche Level 2 instructors, Advanced Snow and Ice graduates, navigation experts, and more than 50 ICS graduates from prior years.

We continued the process of improving the curriculum, including the sessions on rock and snow anchors, sport lead instruction techniques, navigation, crevasse rescue and Mary Rotherham and Julia Rotherham traverse from the summit of Koala Rock at Smith Rock. Photo: Justin Rotherham. accident management. As in past years, there was a big emphasis on Instructors, especially those with larger Greenland, and Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro developing skills and leadership classes.

Torre in Patagonia, Argentina. tools to better prepare for becoming ʯ ʯ Subcommittee Members: Carol Lane, In support of the Mazama education climb leaders. chair; Ed Conyngham, Carl Lamb, Elliott program, the Expedition Committee ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Gary Ballou, Mecham, Byron Rendar, Lia Ribacchi, taught snow camping with 22 students chair; Dan Gerbus, assistant chair; Jodi Wacenske, Ed Wortman. in attendance and three crevasse rescue Andrew Holman, Stephanie Spence, Brad classes with 90 students in attendance.

Unruh, Ania Wiktorowicz.

We also assisted John Godino with his wilderness navigation classes.

In the coming year the Expedition Committee looks forward to getting the

by Ron Fridell word out to the climbing world about the Mazama grants and receiving exciting

by Carol Lane This year the Expedition Committee applications for our review. We’ll also be set a goal of helping to expand the The Nordic Ski School enrolled 99 working with the Education Committee presence of the Mazamas in the climbing students during 2013-2014 ski season. A to coordinate our skill-builder classes to world.

To achieve this we plan to total of 11 classes were offered thanks provide a valuable and fun experience for increase our grant budget incrementally to the efforts of 11 lead instructors, our students. over the next few years leading to 18 assistants and alternate assistants. ʯ ʯ Subcommittee Members: Ron Fridell, association of the Mazama name with Utilizing information gathered from our chair; Mike Anderson, Eric Brainich, more explorations around the world. student and instructor evaluations, this Charlie Brasher, Thomas Nancarrow, Also, thanks to the generosity of Mr. year we decided to modify our beginning Darrell Weston. Terry Donahe, Executive Bob Wilson, we now have a new grant class level. We divided our beginning Council Liaison available to Mazama members. level into beginning (never skied before) The 2014 Mazama Expedition and novice. In addition to the beginning destinations funded by Mazama levels, we also offered intermediate, Expeditions grants, as chosen by the Nordic backcountry and Nordic downhill Expedition Committee, were: (telemark) skiing. ▶▶ Three Child Mountains, Mongolia Although classes officially ended

by Bob Murphy ▶▶ Lhotse, Nepal in January, some of our instructors Two years ago, Bob Murphy, Andrea ▶▶ Nabesna, Alaska offered tours after our classes were McKee, Craig Martin and Justin ▶▶ Northern Patagonia, Chile over in order to make up for poor snow Rotherham learned they shared a similar ▶▶ Mt. Barril’s Werewolf Tower, Alaska and skiing conditions on some of the vision: to create a kid-centric program ▶ ▶ Nevada Pico Oeste, Peru weekends in January. We continue to within the Mazamas that would make ▶ ▶ Mt. Hunter’s Moonflower, Alaska encourage students to join the Oregon mountaineering accessible to families. A ▶ ▶ Mt. Burkett’s Dragons Spire, Alaska Nordic Club tours. Because of an social gathering was held at Hopworks The 2014 Mazama Expedition increase in “volunteer exchange” with and 55 people showed up ready to help destinations funded by Mazama Bob the Oregon Nordic Club, we have been the group form. An official committee Wilson Expeditions Grants, as chosen able to increase our Assistant Instructor was formed in December 2013, with 12 by the Expedition Committee, were numbers, which allows them to pair up members. Since that time, the Families exploration and first ascents in Northern to provide additional support to our Lead

▲▲ NORDIC

EXPEDITION

MAZAMA FAMILIES

56

Committee has created many familycentric events that include hiking, backpacking and climbing. Additionally we created two new classes: Family Climb Nights and Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101), a class that goes beyond the basics of mountaineering and meets one evening and one weekend a month for nine months.

FM101 is just the beginning of our efforts. Our plans include creating a comprehensive set of classes that will lead to kids having the skills they need to plan and execute expeditions by the time they reach their late teens.

The class is based on these key principles: active parent involvement, experiential learning, plenty of practice distributed over time, recognition of progressive achievement, and helping the kids have so much fun that they will be excited for the next session. We cover rock climbing, snow travel, climbing skills, camp craft skills, backpacking, navigation, first aid and trip planning.

FM101 was developed with the help of Eric Einspruch, John Godino, Josh Lockerby, James Jula, Richard Caldwell, Dick Bronder, Brian Wetzel, Charles Blanke and Corinna Kupelwieser.

The enrollment in FM101 in our first year exceeded our wildest expectations with 42 students including 27 kids aged 7–14 and 15 adults. Additionally we had 16 parents participating as field session assistants.

Through these classes and activities we are working to build the future of Mazamas. We are already seeing that by creating these activities for families, we are giving parents a reason to stay engaged in the Mazamas. ʯʯ Committee Members: Bob Murphy, chair; Tom Baughman, Charles Blanke, Mike Doll, Julie Doumbia, Eric Einspruch, Craig Martin, Andrea McKee, Erika Price, Justin Rotherham, Bill Stein, Brian Wetzel.

FINANCIAL AFFAIRS

by Chris Simmons

Chris Simmons, Christina BarrySimmons and David Gratke will be leaving the committee. The committee is actively searching for new members.

In addition to facilitating the preparation of quarterly reforecasts, the annual budget, and helping committees

with financial planning, this year the Financial Affairs Committee helped to implement the account consolidation project during the first quarter reforecast.

The committee is also working on rewriting financial policies and procedures for the organization. Kevin Vandemore is spearheading this project.

The committee worked to reorganize over the year, adding online document storage and a committee email address.

We also began work on a handbook that specifies the work the committee performs. This should provide for better continuity from year to year.

During the first quarter of the 2015 fiscal year, the committee began to re-examine its mission and search for ways that it can provide more value to the Mazamas. ʯʯ Committee Members: Chris Simmons, chair; Christina Barry-Simmons, Eric Brainich, David Gratke, Katie Scharlow, Kevin Vandemore. Terry Donahe, Executive Council Liaison

acknowledged the impact and noted that with the Mazamas, as in most organizations, exceptions can become the norm. Our longer term plan dictates that we get through these reviews by September 2016, but we may actually be able to extend this deadline into 2017 because this entire year had been reserved for Bylaws changes, which we may not require.

Many thanks are due all of the committee members, who put in long, hard hours. ʯʯ Committee members: John Rettig, chair; Bob Breivogel, Matt Carter, Sue Griffith, Ally Imbody, Jonathan Skeen. Bronson Potter, Executive Council Liaison

GOVERNING DOCUMENTS

by John Rettig

We are now in our second year of a four-year schedule to review and update all of our policies and procedures. These are formally controlled documents, generated by various committees, reviewed by the Governing Documents Committee, and approved by Executive Council.

The main body of effort was updating our Employee Handbook, which at 21 pages would not have seemed as intense a project as it turned out to be. However, extensive updates and rewrites were necessary to stay current with today’s employment practices, and this resulted in a seven-month project that was completed in June. Our level of staffing and diversity of workforce dictated we dedicate no less attention to the task.

We encountered periodic interruptions to review either new policies and procedures, or incorporate interim updates to current ones that were offschedule. In this category were Staff Authority, Age Requirements, Inclement Weather and Wildfire Policy, and Rescue Insurance Policy. These reviews did push out some planned review of others that were on our schedule, and we simply

Mazama Lodge in winter. Photo: Charles Barker.

LODGE

by Bob Stayton

The Mazama Lodge is the mountain home for the Mazamas. The facility continues to be well run by Lodge Manager Charles Barker, winter caretakers Joe Fox and Amanda Richards, summer caretakers Duane and Sandy Rupert, and additional staff when bookings or events require more help.

The Mazama Lodge Committee currently has eight hardworking members and would like more members.

If you are interested in joining this group 57

and continuing the tradition of Mazama Lodge, contact Bob Stayton, Lodge Committee Chair.

Friends of the Lodge (FOTL) currently number approximately 80 individuals.

The FOTL are called on occasionally to provide support and to help maintain and facilitate the activities at the Lodge.

You can help out by getting on the FOTL mailing list; contact Lisa Cenotto, FOTL Coordinator.

Several maintenance and improvement projects were completed during the year: ▶▶ A wood splitter was purchased. ▶▶ Personal storage bins were added to most bunks in the dorms. ▶▶ The oven controls were repaired so that both ovens are 100% available. ▶▶ The Leadership Cohort made some landscape improvements in June. ▶▶ The Spring Workday took care of snow shutters, trail rope, firewood, lodge cleaning, furniture repair, and grounds clean up and teepee set up. ▶▶ An AED unit was purchased and installed. ▶▶ The entrance road has been graded and gravel added to reduce potholes. ▶▶ The parking area has been graded ▶▶ Gravel and water bars above the parking area have been added to improve drainage and reduce runoff damage.

facility in lodge ▶▶ Install pellet stove in the basement fireplace ▶▶ Create a firewood storage shed near the lodge ▶▶ Kitchen improvements

Major events and highlights include:

OUTINGS

▶▶ Thanksgiving Dinner ▶▶ New Year’s Eve at the Lodge ▶▶ Winter Family Weekend ▶▶ Round the Mountain Weekend ▶▶ Chuck Wagon Weekend ▶▶ About 1000 kids from Portland Schools visited during family camps in September and October ▶▶ The Mazama Lodge Capital Fund Project Gala on September 21 kicked off a $300,000, 3–5 year capital fundraising campaign ▶▶ Gross sales totaled approximately $210,000 ▶▶ Winter 2014 lodge usage suffered a bit due to lack of snow

The major focus for 2015 is to raise capital funds for the following major lodge improvements: ▶▶ New parking area on the 530 Road to eliminate the need to park on Highway 26 in the winter ▶▶ Construct an additional bathroom 58

Budget: we remained below the $15,000 capital budget for the 2014 fiscal year. Refinishing the decks was put off until we develop a firewood storage area off the deck. A continuing priority is to finish development of a time-phased operating budget that includes all the resources and requirements necessary to maintain the Lodge as an asset for the organization.

We want your feedback about your Mazama Lodge experience. Email to mazamalodge@mazamas.org ʯʯ Committee Members: Bob Stayton, chair; Sherry Bourdin, Trails Committee representative; Lisa Cenotto, Dyanne Foster, Ken Klos, Wayne Lincoln, Nicole Peltz, Marie Quarles, James VanLente, Adam Zielinski.

Joan Zuber, Executive Council Liaison

by Joe Whittington

The Outings Committee is focused on being a resource for adventurous leaders and group members exploring the world.

This past year, we revised and updated the Outings Manual, implemented on-line sign-ups, and coordinated with the Mazama Library to establish an Outings research resource.

In 2014, Mazama Outings leaders led 133 participants on 10 outings: four to Europe, one to South America, four within the continental United States, and one to Alaska. ▶▶ Patagonia Trekking—led by Donovan Pacholl, assisted by Joe Whittington ▶▶ Corsica—led by Eugene Lewins, assisted by Kathleen Hahn ▶▶ The Mother of all Street Rambles: New York City—led by John Davis, assisted by Steven Watts

Bridget Martin in Chamonix, France.

Photo: Lisa Brady.

▶▶ Great Smoky Mountains—led by Jim Selby, assisted by Richard Meissner Chamonix–Mt. Blanc Climbing— led by Lee Davis, assisted by Lisa Brady ▶▶ Mt. Lassen National Park—led by Richard Getgen, assisted by Robert Smith ▶▶ Tuscany and Cinque Terre—led

by Paul Gerald, assisted by Margaret Smith ▶▶ Italian Dolomites—led by Ryan Christie, assisted by Rayce Boucher and Terri Smith ▶▶ North to Alaska—led by Tom Bennett, assisted by Alicia Imbody ▶▶ Exploring Utah’s National Parks— led by Bob Breivogel, assisted by Bob Smith ▶▶ Grand Canyon—led by Gary Bishop, assisted by David Burdick For the coming year the Outings Committee’s primary objectives are continuing work to improve the sign-up process; expanding the number of outings offered and the number of participants by taking advantage of promotional opportunities; and

supporting Outing leaders in planning and execution. ʯʯ Committee Members: Joe Whittington, chair; Jamie Anderson, Bob Breivogel, Sue Dimin, Dyanne Foster, Paul Gerald, Leigh Schwarz, Sandra Volk. Meg Goldberg, Executive Council Liaison

OUTREACH

by Gary Ballou

Outreach Committee had a busy year in 2014. We shared the Mazama message at several public events including Reel Rock Film Festival, as well as school visits and vendor gatherings.

Discovery Night was held on October 20th, where we introduced the Mazama Mountaineering Center to over 100 nonmembers and at least 150 members. Our objective was to showcase the various Mazama activities in such a way that we could appeal to anyone who had an interest in the outdoors.

Following Discovery Night we embarked on an ambitious committee reorganization process, which will continue into 2015. ʯʯ Committee Members: Elizabeth Cole, chair; Kristin Bailie, Gary Ballou, Shem Harding, Susan Jeltsch, Matt Lyon, Stephanie Spence. Amy Mendenhall, Executive Council Liaison

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST

by Tim Scott

The 2014 Portland Alpine Festival committee took the lessons learned from last year’s inaugural event to improve the Festival’s offerings and standardize its committee functions. Among the improvements to the Festival Events, we expanded the number of clinics, offered additional opportunities to learn from professional climbers and improved The Summit. In terms of the committee operations, we defined committee member roles and responsibilities, introduced standard Mazama budgeting practices and defined a committee succession plan.

By all indications, the improvements helped the Festival achieve its

attendance, financial and member enthusiasm objectives.

The 2nd Annual Portland Alpine Fest offered seven clinics taught by three professional athletes at the MMC and the Source, seven seminars taught by four professional athletes, five evening presentations at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the Portland Ice Comp at the PRG, and The Summit, held at the Oregon Convention Center for a total of 21 events over 6 days.

After a difficult spring, the Portland Alpine Fest Committee found its stride and built a formidable team who came together to deliver these festival events.

The committee had 16 Mazama members and staff working together to create this week long celebration of alpine recreation for the entire Portland community.

The clinics expanded to offer sessions for different experience levels and for different disciplines, including one for slacklining. We also offered seminars, which allowed participants to discuss various topics with professional athletes.

The athletes, Graham Zimmerman, Libby Sauter, Aaron Mulkey and John Frieh, presented the clinics, seminars and evening presentations with enthusiasm matched by their audiences.

The Oregon Convention Center proved to be an excellent site for The Summit—the main ballroom allowed plenty of room for the vendor fair, the

silent auction, buffet and socializing, while the smaller ballroom served well for the Mazama awards, live auction and John Roskelley’s wonderful presentation of his pioneering climbs in the Himalayas and Karakorum. Matt Zaffino was the master of Ceremonies and kept the busy evening on track, while Keith Thomajan played the role of auctioneer, raising funds to benefit Mazama Youth Outreach programs. ʯʯ Committee Members: Tim Scott, chair; Jamie Anderson, Laura Bax, Sarah Bradham, Justin Brady, Heather Campbell, Candi Cook, Lee Davis, Ally Imbody, Kati Mayfield, Heidi Medema, Karin Mullendorff, Jacob Raab, Jon Skeen, Charles Stilwell, Ania Wiktorowicz. Sojo Hendrix, Executive Council Liaison.

PROGRAMS

by John Leary

The Programs Committee presented 24 shows from October 2013 through April 2014. Program topics originated from eleven countries and four continents, covering foreign travel, hiking, biking, backpacking, mountaineering, history and scientific and environmental issues.

Presentations included through-hiking the Continental Divide Trail; trekking the John Muir Trail, Nepal, and Central Asia; Utah slot canyons, Alps of Slovenia; Tuscany; and New Zealand.

We took African safaris. We learned about international bike touring and how to build igloos. We went skiing in Norway and on Mt. Hood. We climbed mountains in Japan, the “Stans” of Central Asia and the Bugaboos. We learned about the first all African-American climb of Denali.

Our audiences loved the locally made film Out of the Mist—Olympic Wilderness Stories, as well as one about Crater Lake that included a discussion with the filmmaker and the Crater Lake Park superintendent.

We were haunted by the beauty and implications of the movie, Chasing Ice, followed by a lively question and answer period.

Our programs were attended by more than 1,800 people averaging 90 persons per show with total donations of $1,807. Our three most Libby Sauter teaching a slacklining clinic at The Source during the Portland Alpine Festival. Photo: Ally Imbody.

59

attended programs were the movie Out of the Mist, Katie Mill’s climb of Alaska’s Stikine Ice Cap, and Bill Sullivan’s Oregon for the Curious.

The 2014-2015 season, which began in October, includes presentations from Mazama Carole Beauclerk (Patagonia on the Cheap), Bob Breivogel (Tibet), Eric Hoem (Sea Kayaking in British Columbia), Eugene Lewins (Tibet and Corsica), Don Messerschmidt (Bhutan), Amy and John Osaki (Japan), Michael Pennington (Mexico Volcanoes), Keith Daellenbach (Peru), Adam Baylor (Climbing in Tuolumne) and Scott Peterson (El Capitan). We will also have professional photographers Alan Bauer, Hudson Henry and Andy Adkins. We will hear from filmmaker Sandor Lau (the New Zealand trail), guide book author Craig Romano, and of course, Bill Sullivan, our last presenter of the season.

We have improved the look of our webpage and each year our attendance and donations have continued to increase ʯʯ Committee members: Nancy Bentley and John Leary, co-chairs; Dave Grodle, Sharon Leary, Meryl Lipman, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Ric Russell.

Dyanne Foster, Executive Council Liaison

PUBLICATIONS

by Kristie Perry

The Publications Committee works in conjunction with Marketing & Publications Manager Sarah Bradham to produce the monthly Mazama Bulletin, the Mazama Annual, and the Mazama Directory. The work is comprised chiefly of procuring content—both articles and photos—for these publications, as well as editing and proofreading.

The Bulletin continues to expand in size, with two issues over the past year reaching 40 pages. This expansion reflects the growing number of classes and programs being offered by the Mazamas; our increasing level of engagement with local, national, and international organizations; and the increasing number of articles and photos being submitted for publication—both solicited and unsolicited.

The committee has increased the number of themed issues in the Bulletin.

Themes have included education, ice 60

climbing, rock climbing, volunteering, nutrition and exercise and a celebration of the 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act. The committee is piloting a liaison program this year to improve communications between Publications and other committees. We hope this effort will both encourage committee members to submit news, features, and photos and work with students, volunteers and community members to do the same.

The committee continues to add new, recurring features and refine the editing, proofing and production processes of Mazama publications. ʯʯ Committee Members: Sarah Bradham, Publications & Marketing Manager; Kristie Perry, chair; Bob Breivogel, Anna Browne, Catherine Diaz, Jack Grauer, Sue Griffith, Barry Maletzky, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner. Friends of committee: Rick Craycraft, David Stein.

Meg Goldberg, Executive Council Liaison

University, Magma Degassing and the Role of Volatiles in Explosive Cascade Volcanism: Mount Jefferson, Oregon. ▶▶ Lerner, Allan, Oregon State University, Tracking the Volatile Evolution of Magma Chambers Using ZirconHosted Melt Inclusions: Indonesian and Cascadian Case Studies. ▶▶ Sweeney, Kristin, University of Oregon, Examining Holocene Depositional Patterns and Glacial Inputs of a Young Fluvial System, High Cascades, Oregon. ▶▶ Theobald, Elinore, University of Washington, Life at the Limit: The Impact of Climate Change on Plants and their Pollinators at Mount Rainier National Park (Washington). ʯʯ Committee Members: Tom Bennett and Molly Schmitz, co-chairs. Kathy Avalos, David Dalton, Robert Everhart, Steve Hinkle, Alicia Imbody, Robert McGown, Bradley Noren, Cloudy Sears. Judith Baker, Executive Council Liaison

RESEARCH

RISK MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE

by Tom Bennett

by Sandra Volk

The Research Committee annually solicits proposals for research activities that are relevant to the Mazamas. These proposals are submitted in three groups: Standard ( for experienced researchers); Graduate (college post-graduates); and youth (students in K-12).

This year the Research Committee reviewed 22 proposals; seven (32%) were awarded funding for a total of $16,000.

This committee has two functions.

The first is to review any Mazama incidents and report on their causes to the Executive Council. The second is to recommend to the Executive Council any practices or educational policies which would enhance safe management of the risks inherent in our outdoor activities.

There were a total of 12 incidents in 2014 (nine Climbing, two Trail Trips and one Nordic). Five were near misses, six were minor injuries, and one involved a major injury—a fractured ankle during a telemark lesson requiring evacuation.

The number of incidents decreased from a total of 18 incidents in 2013. There were no recommendations made to the Executive Council as the committee found in reviewing the incidents that in each case the established Mazama procedures were followed appropriately.

Each injured participant received a follow up call from a committee liaison to ensure all needs were met prior to closure of the incident.

The online Incident Report form was updated to include expanded behavioral incident types such as interpersonal conflicts (to support our new “Respect

Standard ▶▶ Ditto, Benjamin, Yosemite Climbing Stewards, Recovering the Peregrine, a Documentary Film. ▶▶ Koch, Johannes and Riedel, Jon, Brandon University and North Cascades National Park, respectively, Holocene Glacier Fluctuations in the Olympic Mountains, Washington.

Graduate ▶▶ Chiapella, Ariana, Portland State University, Evaluating the Effects of Trout Invasions on the Distribution of Contaminants in Mt. Hood’s High Elevation Lakes. ▶▶ DiGiulio, Jennifer, Oregon State

Now” value) and Oregon State reporting requirements for groups working with youth (to support the new Mazama Families Committee). ʯʯ Committee Members: Sandra Volk, chair; Katie Foehl, Ski Mountaineering Committee representative; Brian Wetzel, Families Committee representative; Ken Biehler, Whitney Lindahl, Josh Lockerby, Doug Wilson. Bronson Potter, Executive Council Liaison

Thursday evenings. Meg Linza added Wednesday rambles from the Mazama Mountaineering Center to Mt. Tabor.

Rambles accommodate all levels of hikers and take no more than two hours to complete.

Hikes are also designed for people of all skill and fitness levels. This year we experimented with using Meetup to provide information about our hikes.

It appears that much of our increase in hikers is due to the Meetup experiment.

We had increased numbers of snowshoe outings this year but, ironically, were snowed out for four of those! That February blizzard severely crimped our

by Jim Selby hikes and rambles for about 10 days.

The Lost Lake Chuckwagon at the The Trail Trips Committee (TTC) Lodge in July, led by Rick Amadeo this year included 11 members and and Meg Linza, attracted 24 hikers. six friends of the TTC who organize A backpacking outing in May, led by and carry out a wide variety of hiking Tom Davidson, had 12 backpackers in opportunities. Our TTC Strategic Plan, Olympic National Park. approved in August 2013, has provided Round-the-Mountain, led by Marilyn the focus for hiking activities which Zigler and Rex Breunsbach over Labor have the greatest impact on the greatest Day Weekend, found 72 hikers traveling number of hikers while providing a wide at various speeds around Mt. Hood, all of range of hiking opportunities. whom stayed at the Lodge each evening.

We sponsored more than 900 hikes The TTC also partnered with the 20s and and rambles for more than 9,000 hikers.

30s Mazamas and the Family Committee Fiscal year 2014 saw the greatest on training hike leaders and encouraging hikes for those two groups.

Hike Leader Appreciation Night, chaired by Terry Lawson, was held May 2 with the largest turnout in years and the most prizes for hikers ever. Lori Coyner, Kathleen Hahn and Annie McCartney again chaired the Used Equipment Sale (UES), which resulted in over $18,000 being raised with $6,130 going to the Mazamas after equipment donors were paid. All of the funds raised in the UES go to Mazamas, not to Trail Trips; it is our service project for the A team of Mazama hikers on Yocum Ridge. Photo: Unknown. organization.

Members of the total number of hikes and hikers committee worked with the Outdoor since 2010-2011. We tried new hiking Leadership Program. Several graduates formats, including a series of hikes of that program became hike leaders and over the course of one week led by Rex at least two of those leaders are joining Breunsbach from a campground near the TTC. Many hike leaders were active Cougar. Hikers could camp or drive up in trail maintenance, working with TTC for the day.

Chair Rick Pope, especially on the ElkRambles continue to leave the Pearl Kings and Mazama trails.

District REI store on Tuesday and

TRAIL TRIPS

Richard Getgen continues as Treasurer for the TTC, compiling very detailed reports on the number of hikes and hikers, as well as fees collected. This provides the background necessary for TTC decisions on planning for future hikes, snowshoes and cross country skiing.

Jim Selby and Rex Breunsbach chaired the TTC and they, along with Flora Huber, are leaving the TTC but will remain as friends of the committee. ʯʯ Committee Members: Rex Breunsbach and Jim Selby, co-chairs; Richard Getgen, treasurer; Mitch Auerbach, Ken Carlson, Tom Dodson, Flora Huber, Regis Krug, Terry Lawson, Bill O’Brien, Marilyn Zigler. Sojo Hendrix, Executive Council Liaison

▲▲ TRAIL TENDING

by Rick Pope

Trail Tending Subcommittee recorded a total of 275 volunteer hours of trail work during the 2014 fiscal year—216.5 of the hours were spent on US Forest Service projects and 58.5 hours on other lands. The non-USFS hours were focused on the Tillamook State Forest.

Two of our adopted trails covered by work parties included the Mazama Trail and Elk-King Traverse. In addition, the Wahkeena-Angels Rest Trail in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area was brushed out and tread sections were repaired with the aid of Mazama members and local trail runners in a collaborative trip.

Additional work not officially reportable were two private trips around the Elk-King traverse performing brushing, two days of scouting trail conditions for work parties, and two days of work on the Bell Creek trail on Larch Mt. The Bell Creek trip garnered no response from the membership during the sign up period and was run by an arrangement between Trail Keepers of Oregon and Pacific Crest Trail Association.

As I am leaving the Trail Tending program effective October 1, 2014, the committee will be unstaffed until further notice. ʯʯ Committee member: Rick Pope, chair. ¾

61

Executive Director’s Annual Report

by Lee Davis

We’ve had another astonishingly good year at the Mazamas in promoting mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

Nearly all of our programs ran at capacity, membership broke 3,500 for the first time in our history, our financial position is strong, and we’ve committed more resources towards accomplishing our strategic goals than ever before.

A major highlight from this year was the refinement of our strategic plan and the definition and prioritization of several specific development projects that will significantly improve our ability to pursue our mission. We also looked beyond 2014 in negotiating a $717,000 three-year development grant from the Mazamas Foundation. This grant provides us with the financial backing to initiate and complete our priority projects. Due both to the size of this grant and because we intend to leverage it along with other funding sources to do even more in years to come, I’d like to explain how we got here:

SUPPORT FROM THE MAZAMAS FOUNDATION Throughout our 2013-14 year we approached the Mazamas Foundation with several strategic development projects around improving our program capacity, our community engagement, and the value of Mazama Membership.

We held a series of meetings with the foundation where we explored various ways of funding these projects.

Occasionally the Mazamas Foundation has provided financial support for our projects (notably, the purchase and renovation of the Mazama Mountaineering Center).

Generally though, they expected the Mazamas to fundraise for our own projects independently.

After some discussion, it was agreed that the Mazamas should be capable of fundraising from our members, the community, foundations and corporate sponsors to facilitate several of these projects. We believed that our members and the community would be willing to step up and support those projects that 62

were inspiring and directly beneficial to our mission and the community.

Other projects though, like rebuilding our information systems or ramping up our marketing efforts, would clearly be difficult for our fundraising efforts.

So, in early 2014, the Mazamas Foundation asked us to clarify and prioritize our projects and return with a plan and a request. With serious help and inspiration from the Mazama Strategic Planning Committee, we re-organized, distilled and prioritized our strategic plan. This distillation process started with carrying out an inventory of the Mazamas top priorities culled from our Executive Council retreats over the last 10 years and comparing those results to our existing strategic plan.

In doing so we found something glaring at us from the past: Every year it seemed, we were setting five to seven priorities for change, yet with few exceptions these priorities remained the same year after year. We found that while we had a detailed strategic plan, clear goals, strategies and even priorities, we weren’t solving our highest priority problems.

Issues such as improving our information systems, leader development, fundraising capacity, capital maintenance and youth and community outreach were labeled top priorities and yet we weren’t solving them.

There were three notable exceptions to this observation: One was the purchase and renovation of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and the others were lodge management and volunteer management. The primary difference between these issues and the other goals on our list was that for these three we had dedicated professional resources (staff and/or contractors), funding, budgets, timelines and accountability structures to ensure their completion.

So we decided that our new plan needed to reflect all of these projects and priorities, but also clearly identify the resources needed to accomplish our goals.

After months of effort, a new plan emerged which organized our goals and strategies in the following categories: Expanding Core Programs, Enhancing Operations and Exploring New Opportunities. Our

new plan provides a simple “one-sheet” framework to understand our goals and strategies for years to come, and it clearly states our priorities.

Project timelines, budgets and major milestones were created and all of this was communicated to the Mazamas Foundation in mid-2014. We then completed a risk analysis with the foundation to better understand how we could manage and prioritize these projects depending on how strongly our members and the broader community would support these efforts.

By September, we had agreed to an overall funding plan and secured a multiyear “capacity building” development grant from the Mazamas Foundation.

This extraordinary support from the foundation will function like a bond to ensure that our top priorities succeed, and will provide the necessary cash-flow and infrastructure to gather additional community support and accomplish even more in the next few years.

Projects focused on Leader Development, Historical Collections, Facilities, Youth Outreach and Information Systems have already been initiated and will be kicking into full gear in 2015. Now I’d like to share with you some of our progress on these projects from 2014 and explain a little about where we’re headed:

Leadership Development In 2014 we launched a pilot Leadership Development Program to help us more quickly identify, recruit and train promising leaders for the Mazamas.

Kati Mayfield spearheaded this project with support from the Climbing, Trail Trips, 20s & 30s, Lodge and Nominating Committees. The project resulted in a large pool of new activity and committee leaders which has greatly helped the Trail Trips, 20s & 30s and Lodge Committees strengthen their programs. In the year ahead we’re retaining the services of the Outdoor Safety Institute to aid us in safely reinventing how we recruit, train, certify and retain all of our leaders at the Mazamas.

FACILITIES

Organizations that build robust infrastructure—which includes sturdy information technology systems, financial systems, skills training, fundraising processes, and other essential overhead—are more likely to succeed than those that do not.” Stanford Social Innovation Review, February 2009

Our facilities continue to be well cared for and managed. Charles Barker is doing an amazing job of running Mazama Lodge, including managing the staff and contractors there, hosting events and somehow making the lodge a more pleasant place to visit. Last year, in 2013, we finished internal planning to add parking for Mazama Lodge on the adjacent Forest Road 530 so that people staying at the lodge would no longer need to risk the treacherous crossing of Highway 26 in winter. This year we submitted plans to the USFS and contracted with them to begin the environmental assessments and community surveys required before construction can begin. That work is going well and we hope to have it complete in 2015 so that we can put the project out to bid before the end of the year.

The Mazama Mountaineering Center is thriving as well, and Rick Craycraft and Steve Polzel continue to do a stellar job of maintaining the facility and grounds.

Our classes, programs, events and meeting schedules have completely booked up space in the MMC year-round. It’s hard to believe that we’ve so completely grown into our new home in Portland after just 7 years. In the spring of 2014 we organized a fundraiser with the ASI committee to add an artificial Ice Climbing Wall in the Holman Auditorium of the MMC. The event was a success, raising nearly $30,000; construction of the new wall was begun in late 2014. When complete, it will be the largest artificial ice climbing wall in North America!

COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT Back in 2013, our traditional Annual Celebration was redesigned to become the week-long Portland Alpine Festival. In its inaugural year the festival was truly a pilot project and became quite a success, with multiple events, clinics and workshops, and well over 1,000 people in attendance throughout the week. It also required a massive administrative effort that severely taxed our volunteers, staff and our budget.

For 2014, The Portland Alpine Festival

Committee was reorganized under the leadership of longtime climb leader Tim Scott and grew quickly to over 16 active committee members. Tim called 2014 the “proof of concept” year for PAF and he and the committee clearly knocked it out of the park. In nearly every area of evaluation the 2014 Festival was a resounding success. We had more clinics, events, attendees, sponsors and support than ever before, and met our annual budget. The culminating evening event, now called The Summit, was emceed by KGW weatherman and Mazama member Matt Zaffino. We also held our first ever live auction, hosted

by United Way CEO and member Keith Thomajan, which raised over $5,000 for our new Youth Outreach Programs.

YOUTH OUTREACH Huge progress was made on Youth Outreach Programs this year by our Volunteer Manager Kati Mayfield.

Mazamas formalized a partnership with the Multnomah Education School District’s (MESD) Outdoor School to create a new Outdoor School program hosted at Mazama Lodge for 5th graders in Portland Public Schools. We contracted with MESD to develop the curriculum and arranged for the first two-week pilot program, which will begin in February 2015. If successful, the Mazama 5th-grade Outdoor School Program will introduce thousands of PPS children to the wonders of Mt. Hood.

INFORMATION SYSTEMS Updating and improving our information systems was, in recent memory, something that we focused on only every few years and only after things were clearly broken. We now know that, to keep pace with constantly changing technology and user expectations, we will need to focus every year on improving and augmenting our information systems and technology.

In 2014, thanks to the remarkable efforts of Sarah Bradham, our Marketing and Publications manager, we have finally escaped this vicious cycle. Our website has been completely rebuilt and we’ve added several email management systems to help us better communicate with our members and the community. We have also replaced the main server, backup systems and all of the workstations in the MMC and at Mazama Lodge. For the first time, Mazamas is operating with completely new IT equipment, current and supportable software, a new website, and highly skilled support services available to help us keep moving when problems arise.

SUMMARY None of this work would be possible without the extraordinary effort and support that Mazamas receives from our volunteers, committees and our activity leaders. Many of our key development projects, and my ability to lead the Mazamas, wouldn’t be possible without the remarkable efforts and skills of our staff members and key contractors.

Working with Jamie, Kati, Sarah and Adam was a true joy in 2014 and I’m continually amazed by their passion, dedication and work ethic. We also receive fantastic support from Susan Yoder, our bookkeeper at SMJA, Inc.; Jeff Thomas, our resident historian; and of course, Charles Barker, who continues to make the Mazama Lodge a thriving success and a shelter that will always feel like our home on the mountain.

Mazamas is doing more than ever to expand our core programs, enhance operations and explore new opportunities to pursue our mission. I’m continually honored to lead this great organization and thank you, one and all, for your incredible support of the Mazamas.

2014 was a great year. 2015 looks equally amazing. And it’s all thanks to you. ¾

63

Volunteer Manager’s Report

by Kati Mayfield

Volunteers make the Mazamas go round! Here’s a summit-level view of what our volunteers accomplished this year: More than 600 volunteers contributed 91,000 hours of service.

Our activities were orchestrated and implemented by 28 committees—11 standing committees, eight education subcommittees, and 10 other official committees. A dozen or so task forces and other subcommittees also pitched in.

Volunteers led more than 800 hikes and 200 climbs.

We trained 23 new hike leaders, welcomed 13 new candidates to the Climb Leader Development Program, advanced five people to Provisional Leadership status, and promoted three people to full Climb Leader status.

Volunteers launched one new committee this year (Mazama Families) and two new classes (Families Mountaineering 101 and the Ice Climbing Skill-Builder).

A volunteer-led committee organized the second annual Portland Alpine Fest.

My work during the past year has been focused on supporting all of these volunteer efforts through the Volunteer Management Plan and on developing new ways to engage volunteers and the community in the Mazama mission.

The most exciting accomplishment of Fiscal Year 2014 was launching the Introduction to Outdoor Leadership Course, a five-session program designed to teach emerging Mazama leaders the basic skills they need to excel in any leadership position in our organization. A cohort of 21 people completed the class, and through it they have assumed a variety of volunteer positions, from committee members to hike leaders. This program was a success in its first year thanks to the dedicated group of folks who helped plan it (including members of the Nominating, Education, Climbing, Risk Management, and 20s & 30s committees), and we’re gearing up for an even better and more engaging program for 2015.

In regards to community engagement, I had the pleasure of researching and

developing new youth outreach initiatives. Based on the success of some great pilot projects in 2012-13 (the Youth Climb Camp and partnership with the Sierra Club’s Inspiring Connections Outdoors Program), we decided to dive deeper into this exciting area of programming. The groundwork for these activities, such as new policies, procedures and training standards, was set in cooperation with the Mazama Families Committee. Then, through the invaluable work of our first summer intern, Natasha Mayestha, we developed partnerships and funding plans to launch new projects, including an outdoor education program for Portland-area 5th-graders. This will be run in collaboration with the Multnomah Education Services District and will begin in the spring of 2015 at the Mazama Lodge.

We realized that all of these efforts to engage new people in new ways will be for naught unless people enjoy volunteering at the Mazamas. So an important question we examined this year was “how do we ensure that our volunteers find a welcoming and cordial environment at the Mazamas?” I worked with the “Respect Now!” Task Force to explore this idea. Together we developed a series of tools to promote and protect volunteer goodwill and wellbeing, including a new core value (respect), a volunteer code of ethics and conduct, and disciplinary policy.

It is an honor and an inspiration to work with Mazama volunteers every day, and I am looking forward to another promising year. ¾

Mazama Membership Report October 2013–September 2014 Total membership Oct. 1, 2014 . . . . . . . . . . 3,432 Total membership Oct. 1, 2013 . . . . . . . . . . 3,393 Members Added New members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Members reinstated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Total members added . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584 Members Lost Resigned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Dropped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 Deceased . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Total members lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539 Net gain for the year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Status of Membership Honorary members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 25-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 888 50-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Spouse members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Youth members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Oregon members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,857 Washington members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 All other locations members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191

Enjoying a glissade on Mount St. Helens. Photo: Bob Breivogel.

64

The Mazamas Foundation

by Steve Hooker

Treasurer’s Report

by Terry Donahe

Fiscal Year Oct. 1, 2013–Sept. 30, 2014 The Mazamas is 120 years old. It has grown from 105 original charter members with no assets to more than 3,500 members with $2.1 million in assets and annual support from the Mazamas Foundation (a separate 501(c)(3) nonprofit that owns the Mazama Mountaineering Center).

The mission of the Mazamas is to promote mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety, and the protection of mountain environments. Under the leadership of our Executive Director, Lee Davis, and the Executive Council, the organization is embarking upon unprecedented efforts to execute this mission. The Mazamas will expand core operations, enhance the way it serves members, and explore new opportunities to improve the value its members receive.

The Executive Council is responsible for preserving the financial health of the organization. As treasurer, I am happy to report that the Mazamas has never been stronger financially. During the last fiscal year the Mazamas has benefitted from a large estate gift, a major financial commitment to support the Mazama strategic plan from the Mazamas Foundation, and strong support from donations.

The financial statements of the Mazamas are available to members at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and we will be publishing a formal Annual Report in the spring after our 2014 books have been audited. ¾

Mazamas

Statement of Financial Position 9/30/2014 Prepared by Susan Matlack Jones & Associates LLC From Mazamas Records/For Mazamas Use Only Unaudited Current Assets

9/30/2011

9/30/2012

Created in 1997, the Mazamas Foundation is a legal entity separate from the Mazamas. The purpose of the Foundation is to support the Mazamas in its mission of climber education and wilderness conservation. The Foundation manages its endowment using an investment strategy designed to generate income and preserve assets.

The Foundation also has ownership of the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

The Foundation Board is comprised of seven members who each have at least five years of membership in the organization. Each board member brings a unique set of skills and experience to the Foundation, but most have a background in finance, accounting or the law.

As of Sept. 30, 2014, total Foundation assets were $4.9 million, a $500,000 increase over the prior year. Investment returns and a large gift from a deceased member were only partially offset by grants to the Mazamas. Such grants totaled $115,000 in the last year.

The Foundation recently adopted a longterm strategic plan that meshes closely with that of the organization. Those plans call for a significant increase in grants to the Mazamas to fund the development activities laid out in the organization’s strategic plan. The Foundation is committed to sustaining grants of $130,000 over the next year and $717,000 in development funding over the next three years. The latter is dependent on Mazama management attaining certain agreedupon project milestones. ʯʯ Foundation Board Members: Steve Hooker, President; Dan Crisp, Treasurer; Brian Lawrence, Secretary; Tom Bard, Patrice Cook, Preston Corless, Gerry Itkin. ¾

9/30/2013

9/30/2014

2014–2013

Cash & Cash Equivalents

453,317

558,285

413,014

579,829

166,814

Accounts and other Receivables

37,585

8,279

368,939

893,762

524,823

Contribution Receivable MMC Lease

514,706

448,947

379,825

307,166

(72,659)

Prepaid Expenses & other assets

49,426

55,692

104,774

130,998

26,224

Property and Equipment, net

124,346

126,179

162,445

186,382

23,937

Library & Memorabilia Collections

35,996

38,138

38,138

41,719

3,581

Total Assets

1,215,376

1,235,520

1,467,136

2,139,856

672,720

65

Climbing Legend John Roskelley Becomes Honorary Member

by Sarah Bradham

Bold. Tenacious. Ambitious.

These are words one can use to describe John Roskelley’s 40-year climbing career, as well as his approach to life. The tenacity that carried him up Dhaulagiri in Nepal in 1973, Nanda Devi in 1976, and K2 in 1978 also took him through a solo paddle trip of the Columbia River in 2013. One can read about his many exploits in his books—Last Days, Stories Off the Wall, Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition, and Paddling the Columbia.

This year, the Mazamas welcomed John Roskelley as the keynote speaker of the Portland Alpine Fest’s finale—The Summit—at the Oregon Convention Center on Saturday, November 8. He was greeted with welcome applause by an audience of Mazamas and nonMazamas alike—eager to hear of his many exploits through the years.

Roskelley did not disappoint, treating the crowd to an energetic presentation. One that gave insight into some of his biggest accomplishments—the first ascent

66

of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, first winter ascent of Taboche and many others. It was at the completion of this presentation that he was welcomed as an honorary Mazama member, receiving the highest form of recognition the Mazamas offers an individual.

To receive this honor requires one to distinguish themselves in mountaineering, conservation, exploration or service to the organization.

It was John Roskelley’s incredible career as a mountaineer that led to this award. Earlier in 2014, the international world of mountaineering had awarded John with the Lifetime Piolet d’Or award, also known as the Walter Bonatti award after its first ever recipient.

John become the 6th person to ever receive the Lifetime Piolet d’Or, and the first American.

As Jim Wickwire stated to Terry Richard in an article in The Oregonian “That’s a serious award and it is very well-deserved ... it’s a really big deal that he was the first American to receive it. He deserved it and it’s great that he got the recognition.”

We are excited to welcome John Roskelley to the Mazamas and hope to hear about many more of his exciting adventures, or perhaps his son Jess’s adventures, at a future Portland Alpine Festival.

Photos (clockwise from top right): John Rettig receives the Montague Cup from Ally Imbody.

Bob Murphy speaks to the crowd after receiving the Parker Cup award. Bill McLoughlin (left) presents Doug Couch with the Dafoe Award. John Roskelley speaks to the crowd during The Summit. Photos: Justin Brady.

SERVICE AWARDS HONORARY MEMBER— JOHN ROSKELLEY

DAFOE AWARD—DOUG COUCH ▶▶ The Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award was established in 2004 and is presented by the Climb Committee to an outstanding climb leader with fifteen or more years of continuous active participation, demonstrated outstanding leadership, and substantial service to the Mazamas.

This award is comparable to the Leuthold Award—it cannot be applied for and is awarded at the discretion of the Climb Committee. It differs from the Leuthold Award in that it does not require the recipient to have led the Sixteen Northwest peaks.

16 Peaks

Oregon Cascades

Hit the trails!

▶▶ The Parker Cup is given annually to recognize the member who has rendered services of the greatest benefit to the organization during the past year. Named after Alfred E. Parker, who was president of the organization in 1925.

HARDESTY CUP—JIM SELBY

▶▶ The Hardesty Cup is awarded to the person who has accumulated the most leader points on trail trips over their hike leading career. Named after William J. Hardesty, who started the hiking program in 1912 and was Mazama President in 1917. Hardesty left his estate to the organization, which is the basis for the Mazama Foundation.

Leadership 700 LEADS ▶▶ Tom Guyot

600 LEADS ▶▶ David Braem

Mileage

300 LEADS

3000 MILES

▶▶ Wayne L. Lincoln ▶▶ Robert (Bob) Smith

▶▶ Rex Breunsbach ▶▶ Marilyn Zigler

500 MILES ▶▶ Carole Beauclerk

200 LEADS ▶▶ Rex Breunsbach

150 LEADS ▶▶ Megan Johnson

100 LEADS

TRAIL TRIPS AWARDS

PARKER CUP—BOB MURPHY

▶▶ Stephen Baker ▶▶ Joe Eberhardt ▶▶ Amy Graham ▶▶ John Leahy ▶▶ Patricia Neighbor ▶▶ Bryan Oates ▶▶ Scott Osbron ▶▶ Seng Phou ▶▶ Teresa Redman ▶▶ Erin Wirtz

▶▶ Karl Helser ▶▶ Michelle Van Kleeck

MONTAGUE CUP—JOHN RETTIG ▶▶ The Richard Ward Montague Mazama Conservation Award recognizes outstanding conservationists in our organization who have demonstrated a long-term commitment to the cause of environmental protection and preservation.

Guardian Peaks

▶▶ Quentin Carter ▶▶ Karl Kelser ▶▶ Amy Mendenhall

CLIMBING AWARDS

▶▶ This award is the highest form of recognition the Mazamas can bestow on an individual. We present it to those who have distinguished themselves in mountaineering, conservation, exploration or service to the organization.

▶▶ James Selby

50 LEADS ▶▶ Matt Reeder

25 LEADS ▶▶ Sojo Hendrix ▶▶ Dick Meissner ▶▶ David Nelson ▶▶ Marilyn Zigler

67

68

1/18/14 3/22/14 4/5/14 4/6/14 5/4/14 5/10/14 5/11/14 5/11/14 5/14/14 5/16/14 5/17/14 5/20/14 5/21/14 5/23/14 5/23/14 5/24/14 5/24/14 5/25/14 5/25/14 5/25/14 5/27/14 5/30/14 6/1/14 6/1/14 6/6/14 6/6/14 6/7/14 6/7/14 6/7/14 6/7/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/8/14 6/9/14 6/10/14 6/10/14 6/11/14 6/11/14 6/11/14 6/12/14 6/14/14 6/14/14 6/15/14

Date

Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Old Chute Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute Mt. Shasta, Cascade Gulch Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hubris, The Ogre Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Hood, Sunshine Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Unicorn, Snow Lake Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Mt. Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. Angeles, East Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn, Snow Lake Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute North Sister, South Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier

Mountain, Route 4/3 4/4 8/0 4/0 6/0 11/11 12/12 12/9 7/6 7/5 10/10 7/7 12/8 8/8 10/10 7/7 10/7 8/6 12/12 5/5 7/0 12/11 10/10 9/9 9/9 8/8 10/10 5/5 9/9 9/9 8/8 12/11 10/10 9/9 4/0 7/0 5/5 11/11 8/8 8/8 7/7 7/7 8/8 12/11 5/4 7/7 9/7

Start/Finish

Whit Fellers/Alex Lockard Craig Martin/Patrice Cook Glenn Widener/Larry Beck Darrell Weston/Dan Gerbus Eileen Kiely/Michael Hortsch Gregory Willmarth/Jennifer Van Houten Daniel Bailey/Erin Wirtz George Shay/Rae Lantsberger Bob Breivogel/Kate Evans Larry Beck/Andrew Holman Gregory Willmarth/Martin Gillen Amy Mendenhall/Amy Graham Tim Scott/Justin Brady Matt Carter/Tom Freeman Daniel Bailey/George Shay Walter Keutel/Lynne Pedersen Richard Bronder/Justin Brady Bob Breivogel/Karen Vernier Lynne Pedersen/Walter Keutel Jeff Hawkins/John Meckel Gary Bishop/Grant Causton Tim Scott/Alex Fox Daniel Bailey/Dave Budnik Vaqas Malik/Ankush Varma Chris Kruell/Jason Wagner Gary Bishop/Grant Causton Steve Warner/Mike Magyar Doug Wilson/Tom Baughman Paul Underwood/John Andrews Ania Wiktorowicz/Larry Beck Carol Bryan/Kirstin Labudda Eileen Kiely/Kirk Newgard Gregory Willmarth/Benjamin Grandy Paul Underwood/Kim Osgood Wim Aarts/Terry Donahe Walter Keutel/Larry Beck Doug Wilson/Tom Baughman Daniel Bailey/Amad Doratotaj Shirley Welch/Doug Wilson Marty Scott/Bertie August Doug Wilson/Shirley Welch George Shay/Martin Gillen Marty Scott/Bertie August Tim Scott/Ally Imbody Jeffrey Welter/Paul Montgomery Eileen Kiely/Kirstin Labudda Andrew Bodien/Sanman Rokade

Leader/Assistant

2014 OFFICIAL MAZAMA CLIMBS 6/18/14 6/18/14 6/20/14 6/21/14 6/21/14 6/21/14 6/21/14 6/21/14 6/22/14 6/22/14 6/22/14 6/28/14 6/28/14 6/29/14 6/29/14 7/1/14 7/3/14 7/4/14 7/5/14 7/5/14 7/5/14 7/8/14 7/11/14 7/12/14 7/12/14 7/13/14 7/13/14 7/13/14 7/18/14 7/18/14 7/18/14 7/20/14 7/20/14 7/20/14 7/20/14 7/26/14 7/26/14 7/27/14 7/27/14 7/27/14 7/27/14 7/28/14 7/28/14 7/29/14 8/2/14 8/2/14 8/2/14

Date Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Whitney, Mountaineers Curtis Gilbert, Klickton Divide Ingalls Peak, South Ridge Mt. Adams, North Ridge Unicorn, Snow Lake Mt. Adams, South Butte Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Ingalls Peak, South Ridge South Sister, Prouty Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/N. Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Mt. Stone, West Ridge Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Baker, North Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Black Peak, South Ridge Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Stone, West Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Buckner, SW Face Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/N. Ridge The Brothers, South Couloir Hibox Peak, SW Route Diamond Peak, South Ridge Observation Rock, Flett Glacier Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Stone, West Ridge Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Echo Peak, Spray Park Fay Peak, Knapsack Pass Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Gunn Peak, Barclay Creek Mt. Larrabee, Southwest

Mountain, Route Carol Bryan/Chris Rears Daniel Bailey/Chris Killmer Paul Steger/Kent Ross Josh Lockerby/David Cloud Glenn Widener/Skai Dancey John Meckel/Alex Fox Matt Carter/True Otis Gary Bishop/Grant Causton John Meckel/Matt Blecharz Chris Kruell/Robin Wilcox Eileen Kiely/Heather Campbell Amy Mendenhall/Justin Brady Larry Beck/Brian Klump Kevin Clark/Rob Parker Jon Major/Joe Eberhardt Eileen Kiely/Rico Micalleff Amy Mendenhall/Eric Kennedy Jeffrey Welter/Tian Lan Daniel Bailey/Scott Osbron Jeff Hawkins/Freda Sherburne Lynne Pedersen/Jesus Martinez Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Amy Mendenhall/Ted Slupesky Larry Beck/Alex Fox David Zeps/Andreas Wunderle Eileen Kiely/Cathy Gaylord Matthew Sundling/Dan Gerbus George Shay/Justin Colquhoun Gary Bishop/Howie Davis Jon Major/Doug Couch Matt Carter/Quentin Carter Lynne Pedersen/Karen Graves Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson Robert Joy/Justin Colquhoun Gary Beck/Pam Gilmer Kevin Clark/Burke Stoll Patrice Cook/Noelle Price George Cummings/Kirstin Labudda Vaqas Malik/Brian Murray Shirley Welch/Marty Scott Craig Martin/Greg Scott Larry Beck/Amy Graham Paul Steger/Joe Ferguson Paul Steger/Joe Ferguson Greg Scott/Tim Scott Robert Joy/Rick Craycraft Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor

Leader/Assistant

7/7 6/0 5/5 9/9 8/8 11/11 12/11 9/9 12/12 6/6 8/8 11/10 12/12 7/7 8/0 8/8 11/9 4/4 8/0 11/0 8/0 5/5 7/7 12/12 11/11 8/8 4/4 11/0 8/8 6/6 7/7 7/5 7/0 5/5 8/8 5/5 6/6 11/11 12/12 4/0 5/5 8/8 5/5 5/5 7/7 9/0 10/10

Start/Finish

69

Church Mt., Church Mountain Trail Route Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Eldorado Peak, East Ridge Abiel Peak, PCT Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Guye Peak, North Ridge Bailey Range Traverse Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier The Tooth, South Face Columbia Peak, West Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Dollar Lake Peak, North Ridge Eldorado Peak, East Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Cusick Mountain, North Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Stone, West Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Mt. Cruiser, SW Face Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail South Sister, Devil’s Lake Tolmie and Howard Peaks, Mowich Lake First Mother Mt., Knapsack Pass Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek South Sister, Devil’s Lake Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Cruiser, South Corner Glacier Mt., NE Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge Strawberry Mountain, NE Ridge

Mountain, Route

8/3/14 8/3/14 8/3/14 8/5/14 8/6/14 8/7/14 8/7/14 8/8/14 8/8/14 8/8/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/9/14 8/10/14 8/10/14 8/10/14 8/15/14 8/15/14 8/16/14 8/16/14 8/16/14 8/17/14 8/17/14 8/17/14 8/17/14 8/17/14 8/17/14 8/19/14 8/21/14 8/22/14 8/22/14 8/23/14 8/23/14 8/23/14 8/24/14 8/24/14 8/24/14 8/24/14 8/24/14 8/27/14 8/29/14 8/29/14 8/30/14

Date Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Ted Slupesky/Lynne Pedersen Amy Mendenhall/Eileen Kiely Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Andrew Bodien/Rich Denman Matt Carter/Quentin Carter Amy Mendenhall/Dave Aerne John Godino/Joe Eberhardt Jeffrey Welter/Tian Lan Ryan Christie/Nichole Castonguay Jon Major/Doug Couch Patrice Cook/Keith Campbell Joe Whittington/Brett Nair Vaqas Malik/Kevin Clark Daniel Bailey/Scott Osbron Lori LaDuke/Kelly Fagan Joe Whittington/Brett Nair George Shay/Rae Lantsberger Lisa Ripps/Tim Scott Doug Wilson/Kirstin Labudda Ania Wiktorowicz/Jeff Litwak Amy Mendenhall/Joe Eberhardt John Meckel/Al Papesh Linda E. Mark/Bruce Wyse Vaqas Malik/Jon Skeen John Meckel/Al Papesh Lori LaDuke/Howard Buck Matthew Sundling/Hannah Seebach Linda E. Mark/Bruce Wyse Bob Murphy/Eric Einspruch Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Ellen Gradison/Garry Stephenson David Zeps/Kathleen Hahn Michael Hortsch/Tancred Creagh Lori Freeman/Eric Einspruch Lisa Ripps/Beth Copeland Josh Lockerby/Kirsten Labudda Jill Kellogg/Tom Davidson Joe Whittington/Greg Ragland John Meckel/Bridget Martin Eileen Kiely/Amy Graham David Zeps/Tom Whitney Thomas Miller/Jon Major Gary Bishop/Kim Edger Andrew Bodien/Mark Meyer

Leader/Assistant

2014 OFFICIAL MAZAMA CLIMBS 8/8 11/0 8/8 7/7 7/0 4/0 4/4 7/6 7/7 12/12 8/8 10/10 7/6 8/8 8/8 11/11 8/8 6/6 7/0 10/10 6/6 4/4 12/12 9/9 10/10 7/7 6/6 10/10 5/5 6/5 7/7 11/11 9/8 7/7 8/8 6/5 5/4 8/8 6/6 12/12 5/4 5/4 7/7 7/7 8/8 6/6 9/9 5/5

Start/Finish

Mountain, Route

12/12 5/3 12/0 9/9 5/5 8/7 6/0 8/8 8/8 7/7 11/11 12/12 5/5 9/9 11/10 6/6 4/4 9/9 7/7 12/12 9/9 6/6 8/0 11/11 7/7 8/8 6/6 8/8 5/5 5/5 7/6 7/7 7/7 7/6 7/7 12/10 5/4 5/5 7/0 6/5 9/9 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 7/7 6/0

Start/Finish

Ted Slupesky/Gary Ballou Paul Steger/Joe Ferguson Ted Slupesky/Amy Mendenhall Eileen Kiely/Beth Copeland Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Matt Carter/Ally Imbody Ted Slupesky/Lisa Brady Donna Vandall/Brian Murray Leora Gregory/Patrice Cook Josh Lockerby/April Wolstencroft John Godino/Jill Kellogg Donna Vandall/Brian Murray George Shay/Nick Herr Matt Carter/Jon Skeen Daniel Bailey/Scott Osbron Doug Wilson/Beth Copeland Paul Underwood/Adam Haas Paul Underwood/Aaron Bohn Richard Bronder/Amy Graham Glenn Widener/Joe Eberhardt Dan Schuster/Nancy Goering Kevin Clark/Ankush Varma Amy Mendenhall/Barry O’Mahony Donna Vandall/Sherry Aanerud Amy Mendenhall/Amy Graham Kevin Clark/Kyle Heddy Daniel Bailey/Caleb Sattgast Doug Wilson/Cathy Gaylord Ryan Christie/Patrick Clark Steve Warner/Rico Micallef Bob Breivogel/Jon Putnam Steve Warner/Justin Colquhoun Bob Breivogel/Jon Putnam Donna Vandall/Kathleen Hahn Heather Campbell/Erin Wirtz Gary Bishop/Todd Perimon Jon Major/Jonathan Myers Matt Carter/Ally Imbody Dan Schuster/Suresh Singh Paul Underwood/Scott Stevenson Justin Rotherham/Matthew Sundling Paul Underwood/Aaron Bohn Matthew Sundling/Justin Rotheram Ania Wiktorowicz/Darrell Weston Walter Keutel/Daniel Bailey Leora Gregory/Linda Mark

Leader/Assistant

8/30/14 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge 8/30/14 First Mother Mountain, Knapsack Pass 8/31/14 South Sister, Green Lakes 8/31/14 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 9/4/14 Mt. Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle 9/5/14 Yakima Peak, Chinook Pass 9/5/14 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 9/6/14 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 9/6/14 Mt. Maude, South Shoulder 9/6/14 Eagle/Chutla Peak, Saddle 9/6/14 South Sister, Devil’s Lake 9/7/14 North Sister, SW Ridge 9/7/14 Seven Finger Jack, Southwest Slope 9/7/14 South Sister, Devil’s Lake 9/7/14 Mt. Washington, North Ridge 9/13/14 North Sister, South Ridge 9/13/14 Castle Pinnacle, Reflection Lake 9/13/14 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge 9/14/14 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge 9/14/14 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 9/14/14 Mt. Washington, North Ridge 9/14/14 South Sister, Green Lakes 9/14/14 Mt. Clark, Surprise Basin 9/18/14 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 9/19/14 Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge 9/19/14 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 9/20/14 Del Campo Peak & Gothic Peak, Gothic Basin 9/20/14 Mt. Berge & Mt. Buck, Buck Creek Pass 9/20/14 Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge 9/20/14 Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall 9/20/14 Mt. Washington, North Ridge 9/21/14 Mt.Yoran, Standard 9/21/14 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 9/21/14 Diamond Peak, East Ridge 9/21/14 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 9/21/14 South Sister, Devil’s Lake 9/26/14 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 9/27/14 Cashmere Mountain, West Ridge 9/28/14 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 9/28/14 Del Campo Peak, South Face 10/4/14 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 10/4/14 Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall 10/5/14 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 10/5/14 Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse 10/11/14 Castle Dome, Standard 12/13/14 Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek 12/14/14 Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows

Date

70 Breunsbach, Rex Dechant, Keith Braem, David Eckel, Carolyn Johnson, Megan Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Hiland, Kurt Fellers, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Bishop, Gary Craycraft, Rick Kingsbury, Steve Breunsbach, Rex Eckel, Carolyn Fellers, Whit Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Gregory, Leora Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Krug, Regis Brickey, Sue Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Kingsbury, Steve Nair, Brett Breunsbach, Rex Koch, Susan Dodson, Tom Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Kallmann, Paul Breunsbach, Rex Zeps, David Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Whittington, Joe

9 7 7.5 5 6 6 7 6 8 7.5 6 7 5.5 6 12.6 7.5 6 8.5 5 7.5 6 6 7 6 14.6 7.5 6 6 7 10 6.9 7 6 4.5 6 7 5.8 7 6 4.5 6 5.5 6.4 8 8 6.8 5.4 7.5 6 4.5 6 5.5 8.1 9 7.5 8 7.5 6 4 6 7 5.5 6 6

5 9 10 11 10 10 10 10 5 8 9 8 9 9 4 4 3 3 8 7 8 7 7 7 5 7 7 8 7 4 5 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 10 6 5 13 4 3 10 10 11 10 11 19 15 13 23 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 5

Miles Att

Leader

12/1 12/1 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/3 12/4 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/5 12/7 12/8 12/8 12/9 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/11 12/12 12/12 12/12 12/14 12/14 12/15 12/17 12/17 12/17 12/17 12/17 12/18 12/19 12/19 12/19 12/19 12/19 12/21 12/21 12/21 12/22 12/22 12/26 12/26 12/26 12/26 12/26 12/28 12/28 12/31 1/1 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/4 1/4

Greenleaf Falls Lewis River Falls (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Indian Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Elk-Kings Traverse Wahkeena-Multnomah Creek Loop Pup Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cape Horn Hamilton Mountain and beyond Forest Park (Balch Canyon) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Beaverton Westside Trail Indian Point Waespe Point Forest Park (Balch Canyon) Kings Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Harts Cove Cannon Beach (20s&30s) Forest Park Rollercoaster Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nesmith Ridge to Corky’s Corner Twin Lakes Snowshoe

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips Smith, Sheri Alice Craycraft, Rick Lawson, Terry Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Nair, Brett Copeland, Beth Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Solomon, Larry Nelson, David Davidson, Tom Whittington, Joe Breunsbach, Rex Dechant, Keith Reeder, Matt Steger, Paul Dodson, Tom Davidson, Tom Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Bishop, Gary Zigler, Marilyn Fowler, Mark Bourdin, Sherry Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom

11 9 8.4 7.5 5.5 6 7 6 10.1 7.5 6 5.5 6 7.5 8.5 7.5 6 6 6 7 6 6 7.5 6 4.5 6 6 7 6 5.2 8 5 10.2 5 5 5 11.9 8 7.5 6 4.5 6 7 5.5 6 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 8.2 8.6 9 11 7 7.5 6 4 7 5.5 11.1 7.5 6

7 4 6 10 9 10 10 10 9 9 9 9 9 4 6 13 13 12 13 13 12 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 4 4 4 7 9 8 8 5 5 7 11 11 12 11 11 11 11 8 9 9 9 8 9 13 9 13 5 3 8 8 9 8 9 10 12 12

Miles Att

Leader

1/5 1/5 1/5 1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7 1/8 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/11 1/11 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/14 1/15 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/16 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/19 1/19 1/20 1/21 1/21 1/21 1/21 1/21 1/21 1/22 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/25 1/25 1/26 1/26 1/26 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/28 1/29 1/30 1/30 Franklin Ridge Mt. Tabor Willamette River Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Gales Creek-Bell Camp Road Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Devils Rest (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Chocolate Falls Snowshoe Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge Trillium Lake Moonlight Snowshoe Waespe Point White River Snowshoe Willamette River Loop Lower Macleay Park (20s&30s) Lower Macleay Park (20s&30s) Kenton-Columbia Slough Mt. Defiance Rock of Ages Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bunker Hill Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Greenleaf Overlook Neahkahnie Mountain Herman Creek-Dry Creek Falls Rudolph Spur Silver Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip 1/30 1/30 1/30 1/30 2/1 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/4 2/4 2/4 2/4 2/11 2/11 2/11 2/12 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/15 2/15 2/16 2/16 2/18 2/18 2/18 2/18 2/19 2/20 2/20 2/20 2/20 2/21 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/23 2/23 2/25 2/25 2/25 2/25 2/26 2/27 2/27 2/27 2/27 2/27 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/5 Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hardy Ridge Coyote Wall Portland Zoo-Pittock Mansion Table Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cedar Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Silver Falls Loop (20s&30s) Lacamas Lake Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Mountain Kings Mountain Round Lake Table Mountain Coyote Wall & Labyrinth Silver Falls Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Larch Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Macleay-Wildwood Loop Wauna Point Cape Lookout Yurt Weekend (20s&30s) Cape Lookout Yurt Weekend (20s&30s) Forest Park Cape Lookout Yurt Weekend (20s&30s) Cape Lookout Yurt Weekend (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bennett Pass Snowshoe

Date Trip

4 6 7 6 8.4 8.2 6 10 6 6 6 7 6 6.5 5.5 8 6 4.5 5.5 6.5 7 12.5 7 6 10.4 6 7 4.5 5.5 7.2 6 6 7 5 8.5 5.4 5 9 8.2 8 6 7 4.5 6 14.8 7.5 6 6 7 5 5.5 10.4 7 7 11 7 7 7.5 6 6 7 5 5.5 6

11 12 12 11 10 15 3 5 13 12 13 12 10 11 11 9 10 10 10 10 9 4 13 14 5 11 11 12 12 5 9 9 9 9 7 10 4 5 20 4 13 12 13 12 9 9 9 9 9 9 6 4 11 11 4 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 11 3

Miles Att

Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Solomon, Larry Breunsbach, Rex Jenkins, Carolyn Dodson, Tom Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Davidson, Tom Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Wild, Adrian Reeder, Matt Lawson, Terry Smith, Sheri Alice Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Davidson, Tom Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Davidson, Tom Selby, Jim Krug, Regis Davidson, Tom Meissner, Dick Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Lawson, Terry Smith, Sheri Alice Langenwalter, Karl Reeder, Matt Dodson, Tom Langenwalter, Karl Reeder, Matt Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Kingsbury, Steve

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing 20s&30s: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Mazama Families

71

3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/7 3/8 3/8 3/9 3/10 3/10 3/11 3/11 3/11 3/11 3/11 3/12 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/13 3/14 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/16 3/16 3/16 3/17 3/18 3/18 3/18 3/18 3/18 3/18 3/19 3/20 3/20 3/20 3/20 3/21 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/23 3/23 3/23 3/25 3/25 3/25 3/25 3/25 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/29 3/29 3/29 3/30 3/30

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park-Wildwood Trail Lyle Cherry Orchard Nesmith Ridge to Corky’s Corner Tryon Creek Mt. Defiance Klickitat River (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Munra Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hillsdale-Lake Oswego Horsetail-Wahkeena Traverse McCord, Elowah, Wahclella & Dry Cr Falls White River Canyon Snowshoe Aldrich Butte & Cedar Mt. (20s&30s) Cape Horn Rudolph Spur Triple Falls Mt. Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hagg Lake Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Silver Falls Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Loop Catherine Creek-West Loop Upper Salmonberry River Railway Pechuck Lookout Snowshoe (20s&30s) Cannon Beach-Arch Cape Salmon River Trail Ecola State Park (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Dry Creek Falls Siouxon Creek (20s&30s) Dog Mountain Eagle Creek (High Bridge)

Date Trip Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Getgen, Richard Davidson, Tom Jenkins, Carolyn Avery, Jay Reeder, Matt Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Davidson, Tom Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry O’Brien, William Craycraft, Rick Breunsbach, Rex Whittington, Joe Copeland, Beth Nair, Brett Davidson, Tom Lawson, Terry Avery, Jay Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Beauchemin, Jess Young, Kirby Getgen, Richard Breunsbach, Rex Devlin, Erin Whittington, Joe Zigler, Marilyn Copeland, Beth Braem, David Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Selby, Jim Collins, Krista Krug, Regis Brickey, Sue

Leader

Official Mazama Trail Trips 6 5 6 7 5 15 7 6 5 12 11 7.5 6 5.5 6 7 5.6 7.5 6 4 5.5 6 7 5 12.2 9 4 6 7 10.4 6.2 12 6 4 6 7 5.5 5.5 13 6 3 6 7 7.8 12.3 7 9 5.2 7 10 7 7.5 6 7 4.5 6 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 7 6.4 7.3 7.2 6.6

9 9 10 9 9 4 11 8 3 6 13 15 14 14 15 15 8 11 11 11 11 11 11 5 10 17 4 12 3 10 3 3 13 14 13 13 13 13 7 15 14 15 15 6 17 10 21 6 12 8 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 11 11 11 10 11 13 6 13 5 5

Miles Att 3/31 4/1 4/1 4/1 4/1 4/1 4/1 4/2 4/2 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/6 4/6 4/8 4/8 4/8 4/8 4/8 4/9 4/9 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/10 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/13 4/13 4/14 4/15 4/15 4/15 4/15 4/15 4/16 4/17 4/17 4/17 4/17 4/17 4/18 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/20 4/20 4/22 4/22 4/22 4/22 4/23 4/23 4/24 4/24 4/24 4/24 Sedum Ridge-Mowich Butte Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Wygant Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Oneonta Creek Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Falls Creek Falls Mitchell Pt./Lyle Cherry Orchard (20s&30s) Henline Mountain and Falls Sevenmile Hill Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Indian Point Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Horsetail-Wahkeena Traverse Silver Falls Loop Triple Falls Loop Dog Mountain (20s&30s) Rock of Ages Wahkeena-Multnomah Creek Loop Drift Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hillsdale to Council Crest Bald Butte Franklin Ridge Memalooose Hills Hamilton Mountain (20s&30s) Grizzly Peak Tom McCall Point/Rowena Plateau Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Siouxon Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

Leader

Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Linza, Meg Davidson, Tom Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Gant, Deborah Selby, Jim Breunsbach, Rex Kallmann, Paul Beauchemin, Jess Getgen, Richard Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Goering, Nancy Solomon, Larry Edlund, Ursula Cabra, Aina Breunsbach, Rex Lawson, Terry Middleton, Bill Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Bourdin, Sherry Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry O’Brien, William Meissner, Dick Zigler, Marilyn Getgen, Richard Dechant, Keith Breunsbach, Rex Breivogel, Bob Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Breivogel, Bob Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan

11.3 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 6 8.5 6 6 7 7.5 5.5 10 7.2 8.4 8 7.4 6 7.5 5 6 6 6 8.9 5 5 6 6 7 6 11.7 10.3 6.2 7 10.6 6 3 4.5 6 6 7 5 12.6 4.5 6 5.5 6 7 5 8 14 7 7.6 10 7 6 6 7 5 5 10 6 5 6 6

7 10 10 11 10 10 11 5 11 7 7 6 6 7 3 8 6 4 3 6 15 16 16 16 16 12 11 11 11 11 11 11 7 6 12 10 12 5 3 12 12 12 11 12 10 9 9 9 9 8 5 7 3 8 9 3 11 14 14 14 15 4 15 11 12 11 12

Miles Att 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/27 4/27 4/28 4/29 4/29 4/29 4/29 4/29 4/30 4/30 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/1 5/2 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/6 5/6 5/6 5/6 5/6 5/7 5/7 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/10 5/10 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/13 5/14 5/14 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/15 5/16 5/16 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 Kings Mountain Old Oregon City Mount Defiance (20s&30s) Dog Mountain (20s&30s) Mount Defiance Salmon River Trail Tamanawas Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wind Mountain Hunchback Mountain Kings Mountain Wahclella, Elowah & Triple Falls Wahkeena-Angels Rest Eagle Creek Table Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Archer Mountain Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain & Wind Mountain Wahkeena-Devils Rest Salmon River Trail Great Smoky Mts: Cataloochee Divide (O) Great Smoky Mts: Purchase Knob (O) Crystal Springs Ramble (20s&30s) Great Smoky Mts: Max Patch (O) Great Smoky Mts: Max Patch (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Great Smoky Mts: Leconte Mt. (O) Great Smoky Mts: Cataloochee Valley (O) Cook-Augspurger Mountain Traverse Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Great Smoky Mts: Asheville Long (O) Great Smoky Mts: Cades Cove (O) Great Smoky Mts: Charlies Bunion (O) Great Smoky Mts: Charlies Bunion (O) Boulder Ridge Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Wildcat Mountain via McIntyre Ridge Great Smoky Mts: Looking Glass Rk (O)

Date Trip

Leader 5.4 5 11.6 7 11.9 7.2 3.8 6 6 6 7 5 7.6 5 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 2.7 9 5.4 9 7.4 6 10 6 6 7 5 6 8 5 6 7 5 9.9 9.5 7.2 6.5 6.5 4 7 7 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 10 5.6 12 5 6 6 7 5.5 7 6 8 8 10.6 12.6 7.5 6.2

5 9 8 3 4 6 7 16 17 16 16 17 20 14 9 10 10 10 10 10 4 8 4 5 6 3 3 12 12 12 12 12 23 11 8 7 8 4 4 7 9 13 7 9 13 11 11 12 11 11 12 11 11 8 7 12 12 12 12 12 8 12 11 10 3 12 13

Miles Att

Bourdin, Sherry Jenkins, Carolyn Irelan, Kit Wild, Adrian Dodson, Tom Lawson, Terry Huber, Flora Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Selby, Jim Linza, Meg Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Breunsbach, Rex O’Mahony, Barry Whittington, Joe Selby, Jim Edlund, Ursula Smith, Margaret Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Davidson, Tom Linza, Meg Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Gant, Deborah Smith, Dan Selby, Jim Meissner, Dick Miller, Sarah Selby, Jim Meissner, Dick Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Meissner, Dick Selby, Jim Davidson, Tom Peltz, Nicole Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Selby, Jim Forester, Diana Selby, Jim Meissner, Dick Gant, Deborah Nelson, David Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim

72 Meissner, Dick Davidson, Tom Sanzone, Mark Krug, Regis Dechant, Keith Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Linza, Meg Davidson, Tom Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Beauchemin, Jess Jenkins, Carolyn Nelson, David Wild, Adrian Solomon, Larry Hiland, Kurt Selby, Jim Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Auerbach, Mitch Davidson, Tom Linza, Meg Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Davidson, Tom O’Brien, William Getgen, Richard Forester, Diana Davidson, Tom Nair, Brett Collins, Krista Kallmann, Paul Selby, Jim Davidson, Tom Breivogel, Bob Breunsbach, Rex Langenwalter, Karl Mayfield, Kati Breunsbach, Rex Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Davidson, Tom Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Margaret Getgen, Richard Kallmann, Paul Solomon, Larry Russell, Adam

6.2 8.4 5 13.2 9.8 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 9.5 6 6 7 5.5 7.7 5.7 7 13 9.8 9.5 5.5 7.5 6 6 6 7.5 7.2 5 7.5 5 6 6 12 11.5 10 5 12 10.6 6.3 6 4.6 12 7.6 10 9 9 9.8 5 6 7 6 9 5 5 6 6 7 8.5 6.3 10.9 14 4.5

6 5 3 5 4 14 15 15 15 14 3 14 13 13 13 13 4 10 11 4 5 13 19 14 15 15 15 3 7 6 15 16 15 15 12 5 8 3 12 9 15 8 5 12 9 10 15 15 3 19 18 18 18 8 14 10 10 10 10 8 7 18 10 4

Miles Att

Leader

5/17 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/18 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/20 5/21 5/21 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/22 5/23 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/25 5/25 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/27 5/28 5/28 5/29 5/29 5/29 5/29 5/30 5/30 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/1 6/2 6/3 6/3 6/3 6/3 6/4 6/4 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/8 6/8

Great Smoky Mts: Looking Glass Rk (O) Dog Mountain Forest Park North Lake via Wyeth Trail Nesmith Point (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Ruckel Ridge, Ruckel Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Marys Peak Buck Point Viewpoint Dog Mountain Eagle Creek Nesmith Point Cook Hill Lucia & Moulton Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain Dog Mountain Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Enchanted Valley Backpack (Day 1 of 3) Oswald West State Park Cape Lookout Dry Creek Falls Enchanted Valley Backpack (Day 2 of 3) Rock of Ages Falls Creek Falls (20s&30s) Tamanawas Falls (20s&30s) Angels Rest Enchanted Valley Backpack (Day 3 of 3) Saddle Mountain Table Mountain Greenleaf Falls (20s&30s) (coleader) Greenleaf Falls (20s&30s) Nesmith Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble McNeil Point Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Creek Falls Creek Falls Coldwater Lake (20s&30s) Hardy Ridge Palmateer Point

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/11 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/17 6/18 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/19 6/19 6/20 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 Ramona Falls Scar Mountain Tumble Lake/Dome Rock (20s&30s) Dog Mountain (F) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte, Cedar Mt., Table Mt. Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lolo Pass-Bald Mountain Beacon Rock Salmon Butte Triple Falls & Latourell Falls Herman Creek, PCT West Zig Zag Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Eastmoreland Ramble (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bald Butte Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Kings Mountain Trail Tender Ramona Falls Trapper Creek Loop Fifteenmile Creek Hunchback Mountain Siouxon Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Silver Star Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Hamilton Mountain (2nd leader) North Lake Dry Ridge Trail to Grouse Point (20s&30s) Dry Ridge Trail to Grouse Point (20s&30s) Devils Peak via Cool Creek Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Twin Lakes

Date Trip 7.3 13.4 14.8 7 7.5 6 6 7 4 6 13 5 6 6 6 5 7 2 11 6.4 6.2 11 8 9 6 6 7 4 6 5 4 7 5 6 6 8.4 12.6 6 7.3 13.3 10.2 9 10 7.5 6 7 4 6 6 5 7.5 6 6 6.5 7 5 7.6 7.6 13.2 12.6 12.6 8.2 8.5 9.4

12 6 7 12 11 12 12 12 12 12 6 10 9 10 9 10 6 7 8 7 9 9 10 11 10 10 10 11 11 7 7 14 15 15 15 4 3 3 10 10 9 11 7 18 18 18 18 18 18 8 10 9 8 8 8 9 11 5 5 8 8 8 7 12

Miles Att

Lawson, Terry Beauchemin, Jess Reeder, Matt Stein, Bill Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Fowler, Mark Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Lawson, Terry Goodwin, Billie Gant, Deborah Whittington, Joe Lawson, Terry Auerbach, Mitch Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Miller, Sarah Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn O’Brien, William Smith, Dan Pope, Richard Gant, Deborah Goering, Nancy Amodeo, Rick Nelson, David Sinsky, Colleen Braem, David Johnson, Megan Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Linza, Meg Breivogel, Bob Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Selby, Jim Goering, Nancy Bourdin, Sherry Copeland, Beth Paver, Hal Nelson, David Forester, Diana Getgen, Richard

Leader 6/29 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/1 7/1 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/6 7/6 7/7 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/12 7/12 7/13 7/13 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/15 7/16 7/17 7/17 7/17 7/17 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/21 7/22 Tom-Dick Mountain (20s&30s) Wildcat Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Boulder Ridge Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Horseshoe Ridge Dry Creek Falls Tom-Dick Mountain Yocum Ridge Bald Mountain (20s&30s) Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Wahclella & Elowah Falls Saddle Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Fort Vancouver Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Buck Peak Happy Hour Ramble (20s&30s) Indian Mountain Ramona Falls Silver Star Mountain (via Starway) Champoeg State Park (20s&30s) Salmon Butte Tamanawas Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Gales Creek Lava Canyon Lookout Mountain-Palisade Point Kelly Point Park Bike-n-Hike (20s&30s) Kelly Point Park (20s&30s) (coleader) Rooster Rock (F) Dome Rock Mount Margaret Paradise Park Larch Mountain (F) Ape Canyon Butte Camp

Date Trip

6.4 7.1 6 6 7 5 11 5 6 6 6 5 11 5.4 7 17.4 7 8.5 4.8 7.2 7.5 6 6 6 6 7 4.5 3.3 5 6 6 7 5 16 6 9 8 9.2 8 11 4.4 9 6 6 7 6 5 5 6 6 5 6 10 6.6 6.7 15 15 2 10.6 11.6 12.7 12 9.6 7.6

8 12 13 13 12 13 9 4 12 13 12 13 8 5 12 7 7 11 6 5 7 8 8 8 8 8 8 6 13 8 8 7 8 6 6 9 8 6 10 7 4 8 8 8 7 8 8 10 11 11 11 11 4 17 9 4 4 22 4 18 10 13 15 11

Miles Att

Collins, Krista Huber, Flora Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Peltz, Nicole Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Sherbeck, Terry Lawson, Terry Kowalski, Andrea Smith, Dan Dechant, Keith Edlund, Ursula Lawson, Terry Gerald, Paul Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Meyer, Kent Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn O’Brien, William Mayfield, Kati Marlin, Kelly Solleiro, Adonay Bishop, Gary Collins, Krista Solleiro, Adonay Getgen, Richard Breivogel, Bob Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Linza, Meg Johnson, Megan Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel O’Mahony, Barry Breunsbach, Rex Forester, Diana Collins, Krista Langenwalter, Karl Murphy, Bob Beauchemin, Jess Breunsbach, Rex Smith, Margaret Stein, Bill Breunsbach, Rex Breunsbach, Rex

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing 20s&30s: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Mazama Families

73

7/22 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/25 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/31 7/31 7/31 7/31 7/31 8/1 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/3 8/3 8/3 8/3 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/6 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/10

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Independence Pass Loop Mt. Tabor Ramble Mazama Trail—Trail Tending Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Toutle Trail Mazama Trail—Trail Tending Sheep Canyon Larch Mountain Crater Larch Mountain Crater Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 1 Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 1 Mazama Trail—Trail Tending Whetstone Mountain Coldwater Peak (20s&30s) Coldwater Peak (20s&30s) (coleader) Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 2 Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 2 Tillamook Spit Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cairn Basin Mt. Tabor Ramble Oregon City Ramble (20s&30s) Elk Cove via Top Spur Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Cove Backpack (F) Cape Horn Cast Creek-East Zig Zag Mountain Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge McNeil Point (20s&30s) Elk Cove Backpack (F) Eightmile Creek Loop Gorton Creek-Nick Eaton Ridge Lookout Mountain Elk Cove Backpack (F) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nesika Lodge (20s&30s) Nesika Lodge (20s&30s) Ape Canyon Harry’s Ridge Three Fingered Jack Backpack (20s&30s) Cairn Basin (20s&30s) Three Fingered Jack Backpack (20s&30s) Big Huckleberry Mountain

Date Trip 8 6 7 5.5 6 8 5 8 6 6 7 5 6 5 6 11.5 7 7 15 15 2 11 12 12 8 8 8.1 6 7 6 6 8 5 3 14 6 6 7 6 4.9 7.5 12.4 5.7 10 1.9 7.7 8 10.4 6.4 7 6 5.5 6 5 6 6 4.5 6 10 10 11 6 10.1 8 10.1 10.8

11 11 11 11 11 8 7 6 9 9 8 9 9 8 8 9 12 15 12 12 8 7 5 4 12 12 11 14 14 14 14 7 10 8 4 10 11 10 11 11 17 8 3 11 11 10 5 8 11 15 15 16 16 11 10 9 10 9 16 16 12 7 0 7 8 9

Miles Att

Craeger, John Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Pope, Richard Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Rea, Ed Breunsbach, Rex Huber, Flora Selby, Jim Amodeo, Rick Linza, Meg Sheldon, Ray Solomon, Larry Dechant, Keith Reeder, Matt Amodeo, Rick Linza, Meg Getgen, Richard Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Breivogel, Bob Linza, Meg Miller, Sarah Breunsbach, Rex Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Einspruch, Eric Selby, Jim Solomon, Larry Middleton, Bill Copeland, Beth Einspruch, Eric Getgen, Richard Lawson, Terry Hendrix, Sojo Einspruch, Eric Amodeo, Rick Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Kallmann, Paul Kallmann, Paul Lincoln, Wayne Huber, Flora Dechant, Keith Kallmann, Paul Reeder, Matt Breunsbach, Rex

Leader

Official Mazama Trail Trips 8/10 8/10 8/10 8/10 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/13 8/13 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/17 8/18 8/18 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/24 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/27 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/30

Salmon River Trail Three Fingered Jack Backpack (20s&30s) Three Fingered Jack Backpack (20s&30s) Larch Mountain (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble PCT at Lava Bed Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lacamas Lake Paradise Park Wahkeena-Angels Rest Elk Cove (20s&30s) Elk Cove (20s&30s) (2nd leader) (20s&30s) McNeil Point McNeil Point via McGee Creek Table Mountain Lassen: Terrace, Shadow-Cliff Lakes (O) Lassen: Cluster Lakes (O) Lassen: Lassen Peak & Bumpass Hell (O) Lassen: Bumpass Hell & Lassen Peak (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lassen: Butte Lake-Widow Lake (O) Lassen: Cinder Cone & Snag Lake (O) Lassen: Prospect Peak (O) Mt. Tabor Ramble Saddle Mountain Timberline Lodge-Ramona Falls Lassen: Chaos Crags (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Timberline Lodge-Cloud Cap Lassen: Kings Creek-Summit Lake (O) Lassen: Brokeoff Mountain (O) Lassen: Brokeoff Mountain (O) Lassen: Echo Lake (O) Lassen: Boiling Spring-Devils Kitchen (O) Elk Mountain Lava Canyon Salmon River Trail Bear Point (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Barrett Spur Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cape Horn

Date Trip 7.2 10.1 10.1 14.5 8 4.5 6 7 6 5 7 4.5 6 6 6 7 7 12.7 6.4 8 8 8 8 10 5.7 14 5.6 8 7.5 4 5 6 7 6 8.5 10 6.6 5 7.2 14 4 7.5 5.5 6 6 7 14 6 7 7 5.1 6.2 8.5 6 10 8.4 6 5 5.8 5 9.8 5.5 6 5 5.5 7

10 8 8 6 11 12 12 12 12 9 4 11 11 11 11 10 9 9 9 11 11 8 8 5 17 6 10 14 11 12 12 12 11 12 4 13 3 5 4 4 13 9 10 9 9 9 7 8 12 2 3 11 5 15 12 3 17 17 17 8 3 12 11 12 12 16

Miles Att

Edlund, Ursula Dechant, Keith Reeder, Matt Solleiro, Adonay Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Meyer, Kent Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Selby, Jim Smith, Dan Lawson, Terry Collins, Krista Irelan, Kit Foster, Dyanne Hendrix, Sojo Solleiro, Adonay Getgen, Richard Smith, Robert Getgen, Richard Smith, Robert Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Getgen, Richard Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Linza, Meg Bourdin, Sherry Breunsbach, Rex Smith, Robert Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Getgen, Richard Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Getgen, Richard Smith, Robert O’Mahony, Barry Huber, Flora Zigler, Marilyn Bodien, Andrew Guyot, Tom Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Hendrix, Sojo Rea, Ed Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Nair, Brett

Leader 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/5 9/6 9/6 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/12 RTM: Cloud Cap–Mt. Hood Meadows RTM: Cloud Cap–Mt. Hood Meadows RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Mt. Hood Meadows–Cloud Cap RTM: Mt. Hood Meadows–Cloud Cap RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove RTM: Cloud Cap–Mt. Hood Meadows RTM: Cloud Cap–Mt. Hood Meadows RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Mt. Hood Meadows–Cloud Cap RTM: Mt. Hood Meadows–Cloud Cap RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove Wahkeena-Multnomah Creek Loop RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls–Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge–Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge–Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge–Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove Timothy Lake Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Angels Rest Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Rock Island (20s&30s) Indian Heaven (Thomas/Junction/Blue Lk) Fish Creek Mountain & Fish Lake Wahclella & Elowah Falls Huckleberry Mountain via Boulder Ridge Mazama Trail Salmon River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Meadows-Gnarl Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Saddle Mountain

Date Trip 14 14 14 14 11 11 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 11 11 14 14 14 14 14 14 5.2 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 11.2 6 6 5 5.8 7 5 6 6 7 5 5.5 3 8.5 7.2 4.8 10 8.4 7.2 5 6 6 6 9 6 6 6 5 7.2

6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 7 6 6 4 5 6 6 5 6 6 6 5 6 5 14 14 15 14 9 14 11 11 11 12 11 4 4 12 10 4 7 6 13 13 12 13 7 12 12 12 13 4

Miles Att

Krug, Regis Sattgast, Caleb Foster, Dyanne Smith, Dan Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Bourdin, Sherry Smith, Skip Anderson, Jerry Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Peltz, Nicole Foster, Dyanne Smith, Dan Anderson, Jerry Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Peltz, Nicole Krug, Regis Sattgast, Caleb Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Bourdin, Sherry Smith, Skip Koch, Susan Bourdin, Sherry Smith, Skip Breunsbach, Rex Sattgast, Caleb Foster, Dyanne Smith, Dan Adams, Jerry Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Peltz, Nicole Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Miller, Sarah Meyer, Kent Breunsbach, Rex Lawson, Terry Ross, Kent Hendrix, Sojo Lawson, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Russell, Adam

Leader

74

9/13 9/13 9/13 9/14 9/14 9/14 9/16 9/16 9/16 9/16 9/17 9/17 9/18 9/18 9/18 9/18 9/20 9/20 9/20 9/21 9/21 9/23 9/23 9/23 9/24 9/25 9/25 9/25 9/25 9/26 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/28 9/30 9/30 9/30 9/30 9/30 10/1 10/2 10/2 10/2 10/2 10/2 10/3 10/4 10/4 10/4 10/4 10/5 10/5 10/5 10/7 10/7 10/7 10/7 10/7 10/8 10/9 10/9 10/9 10/9 10/9

Angora Peak Indian Heaven: Placid-Bear-Wood Lakes Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Badger Lake Larch Mountain Crater Lookout Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble McNeil Point via Mazama Trail Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Ape Cave Indian Heaven: Indian Racetrack Multnomah Falls-Angels Rest Burnt Lake-East Zig Zag Mountain Indian Heaven (Thomas/Junction/Blue Lk) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble University Falls Dry Creek Falls Lookout Mountain Triple Falls Indian Heaven: Thomas-Bear-Blue Lakes Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Grizzly Peak Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble McNeil Point Indian Heaven Lake Oswego Circumnavigation Larch Mountain Lower Salmonberry River Franklin Ridge Oneonta Creek Tom-Dick Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Fifteenmile Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip 8 11 8.2 12 6.4 10.4 6 6 4.5 5.5 11 5 6 6 6 4.5 1.5 9 10 9.6 9 6 6 6 5 6 6 6 5.5 8.2 9 10.4 5 9 7.5 5 6 6 6 10 7.5 4 6 6 6 9.8 10 3 13.8 10.2 12.2 3.7 7.4 7.5 5 6 6 6.5 10.3 7.5 4 6 6 6.5

3 8 8 8 8 5 18 17 18 18 9 7 12 12 12 12 3 7 5 11 4 12 12 12 8 9 9 8 9 3 12 10 12 10 12 11 12 12 12 5 9 8 9 8 8 12 11 6 3 12 9 3 8 14 14 14 14 13 4 8 8 9 8 8

Miles Att

Breunsbach, Rex Getgen, Richard Shotola, Leslie Hendrix, Sojo Jenkins, Carolyn Solleiro, Adonay Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Huber, Flora Lincoln, Wayne Solleiro, Adonay Edlund, Ursula Getgen, Richard Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Russell, Adam Zigler, Marilyn Nelson, David Selby, Jim Getgen, Richard Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Van Rossen, Daniel O’Brien, William Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Beauchemin, Jess Koch, Susan Evans, Kate Smith, Dan Breunsbach, Rex Lawson, Terry Whittington, Joe Getgen, Richard Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Ripps, Lisa

Leader

Official Mazama Trail Trips 10/9 10/10 10/11 10/11 10/12 10/12 10/12 10/12 10/14 10/14 10/14 10/14 10/14 10/15 10/16 10/16 10/16 10/16 10/16 10/18 10/18 10/18 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/21 10/21 10/21 10/21 10/23 10/23 10/23 10/23 10/23 10/25 10/25 10/25 10/26 10/26 10/26 10/28 10/28 10/28 10/28 10/29 10/30 10/30 10/30 11/1 11/1 11/1 11/2 11/2 11/2 11/2 11/4 11/4 11/4 11/4 11/5 11/6 11/6 Portland Street Ramble Wilson River Trail Fort Cascades Gnarl Ridge Angels Rest-Devils Rest Barrett Spur Larch Mountain Crater Observation Peak (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Fort Vancouver and Riverfront Wahkeena-Devils Rest Table Mountain (20s&30s) Indian Heaven Rock of Ages Silver Falls Loop Silver Star Mountain (20s&30s) Breitenbush Hot Springs (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Squaw Mountain Zig Zag Tree Planting Marquam Hill–Council Crest (20s&30s) Nick Eaton Ridge Silver Falls Loop Triple Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nestor Peak Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Falls Creek Falls Hunchback Mountain Silver Falls Loop (20s&30s) Gillette Lake Loop Larch Mountain Warrior Rock (20s&30s) Sheep Canyon (20s&30s) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dublin Lake Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip 6 8 2.5 12 8 8.8 6.4 6.8 8 5 6 6 6 12.6 7 6 4 6 6 5 9.5 9 11 10.5 8 8.5 8.5 6 4 6 6 8 6 6 4 6 4.4 0 8 8 7.9 6.5 4 6 7 6.5 8 4 7 6.5 8.4 9 8 5 13.8 7 12.7 7 6 5 6 13.8 7.5 6

8 6 7 7 6 8 5 7 12 13 12 13 12 4 10 11 11 11 11 16 7 6 7 11 3 9 8 16 16 16 16 9 9 9 9 9 5 19 7 5 3 4 12 11 11 11 11 11 10 11 12 10 7 6 4 7 5 13 13 14 13 5 8 8

Miles Att

Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Goodwin, Billie Hiland, Kurt Krug, Regis Hendrix, Sojo Lawson, Terry Dechant, Keith Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Bourdin, Sherry Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Selby, Jim Smith, Dan Solleiro, Adonay Ross, Kent Nair, Brett Breivogel, Bob Kallmann, Paul Reeder, Matt Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Braem, David Breivogel. Bob Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Purdy, Mason Pedersen, Elizabeth Hendrix, Sojo Getgen, Richard Krug, Regis Breunsbach, Rex Irelan, Kit Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Breunsbach, Rex Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Krug, Regis Hendrix, Sojo Lackey, Jessica Getgen, Richard Craycraft, Rick Kallmann, Paul Solleiro, Adonay Fellers, Whit Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Foster, Dyanne Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom

Leader 11/6 11/6 11/6 11/7 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/9 11/9 11/11 11/11 11/11 11/11 11/11 11/12 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/16 11/16 11/18 11/18 11/18 11/18 11/18 11/19 11/20 11/20 11/20 11/20 11/20 11/21 11/22 11/23 11/23 11/25 11/25 11/25 11/25 11/27 11/28 11/29 Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Green Canyon-Devils Peak-Salmon River Dry Creek Falls & PCT Falls Nesmith Point Round Lake Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) Maxwell Butte Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Street Ramble—4T Trail (F) Gales Creek-Storey Burn Dog Mountain Mt. Tabor Street Ramble—St. Johns Bridge (F) Lacamas & Round Lakes Wauneka Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Greenleaf Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Salmon River Trail Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge Benson Plateau Herman Creek Pinnacles Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Latourell Falls Wahclella & Elowah Falls Hamilton Mountain

Date Trip

6 6 6 15.7 7.3 10 5 13.8 10 6 6 8 5 4 8 7.2 4 5.5 7 10 7.5 6 6 5 6 9 6 6 6 8 5.5 10 4 12.8 5 7.5 6 6 5 2.3 4 8

8 7 8 3 20 7 10 5 9 10 10 10 10 7 7 4 5 8 9 8 12 12 12 13 13 11 8 7 8 7 8 3 8 10 5 14 14 15 15 4 6 10

Miles Att

Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Van Rossen, Daniel O’Brien, William Lawson, Terry Amodeo, Rick Selby, Jim Foster, Dyanne Beauchemin, Jess Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Stein, Bill Breunsbach, Rex Nelson, David Jenkins, Carolyn Einspruch, Eric Lawson, Terry Young, Kirby Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Bourdin, Sherry Selby, Jim Craycraft, Rick Wettstein, Guy Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Smith, Robert Marlin, Kelly Hiland, Kurt Krug, Regis

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing 20s&30s: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Mazama Families

Clockwise, from top: Mountain goat near Dragontail Peak, North Cascades.

Photo: John Leary. ICS 2013–2014 students and instructors at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Andrew Holman. Micah and Amy Daellenbach at Laguna Churup–Nevada Churup, Peru. Photo: Keith Daellenbach..

75

Those who passed away

2014

In Memoriam They climbed, hiked, skied, and camped with us.

Then came the end, as it does for every human being.

| Chuck Carson (1983) | Wanda Clement (1944) | Ralph Core (1971)

| Josef Desch (2007) | David Falconer (1950) | Robert Gibson (1991) | Mark Hanschka (1983) | Peter Heitkemper (1970) | John Helmer (1955) | Don Jeffery (1992) | Charles Jensen (1958) | Chad Karr (1960) | Donald Kemper (1974) | William Kingsbury (2005) | Ralph Krelwitz (1952) | William Lynch (1951 | Mitch Moore (2006) | A. Donald Parr (1966) | Carole Patrick (1999) | William Schultz (1937) | John Sell (1973) | Marjorie Walker (1958) | David Wedge (1992) | John Weigand (1944) | Rhoda Whittlesey (1936) Accidentally omitted for 2012

George McGeary (1949) Jeanne Rathbone (1948) Sandra Thygesen (1991)

Mt. Shuksan. Photo: Andrew Holman.