M Y T H E M E
AS THE TOPIC OF MY PUBLICATION I HAVE CHOOSEN IMPERFECTIONS THAT ARE STILL UNERREPRESENTED IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY. THE SOCIATY IS VERY DIVERSED AND I RECON FASHION SHOULD REPRESENT ALL KIND OF PEOPLE. ALTHOUGHT THE FASHION INDUSTRY IMPLEMENTS CHANGES AND BECOMES MORE AND MORE INCLUSIVE AND DIVERSED THERE IS STILL A LONG WAY TO GO. ENGAGING PLUS-SIZE OR BLACK MODELS IS NOT ENOUGH. WE SHOULD START TO SEE ORDINARY PEOPLE IN THE FASHION WORLD, LIKE THESE THAT WE CAN SEE DAILY. IT STILL REPRESENTS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, THAT MAY BE MORE DIVERSED THAT IN THE PAST BUT THEY ARE STILL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL FROM THEIR CATEGORY. WHY FASHION DOES NOT REPRESENT AN AVERAGE WOMAN OR MAN? ALSO RETOUCHING PHOTOS DOES NOT HELP.
MODELS WE CAN SEE IN FASHION CAMPAIGNS OR MAGAZINES OR IN THE MEDIA ARE UNREALISTICLY PERFECT. THEY HAVE USUALLY IDEAL PROPORTIONS AND CERTAIN FACE FEATURES CONSIDERED BEAUTIFUL, FLAWLESS SKIN AND SHINY HAIR. WHAT ABOUT ACNE AND SKIN PROBLEMS? MOST OF THE PEOPLE HAVE SOME SKIN PROBLEMS, WHILE ALL OF THE MODELS HAVE A FLAWLESS COMPLEXION. WHERE DOES IT LEAD? WOMEN ARE Taught TO COVEFR THEIR SKIN IMPERFECTIONS UNDER A LAYER OF MAKEUP WHAT UNDOUBTEDLY IS NOT HEALTHY FOR SKIN. NOT EVERYONE HAS LONG LEGS A SKINNY WAIST. WHILE THE FASHION DICTATES US THIS IS ONE AND ONLY APPROPRIATE BODY SHAPE. WHAT ABOUT GIRLS THAT GENETICALLY HAVE SHORT LEGS? THAY CANNOT FEEL BEAUTIFL? WE DO NOT HAVE MUCH INFLUENCE ON OUR PROPORTIONS OR FECIAL FEATURES AND SHOWING ONLY ONE CANON OF BEAUTY IS PRETTY DISCRIMINATING. ANOTHER THING, WHY DOES THE FASHION LIKES SO MUCH EXTREMES? SUPER SKINNY OR PLUs-SIZE MODELS. WHY THERE IS NOT MUCH MIDDLE-SIZE, HEALTHY LOOKING MODELS? I THINK WE SHOULD ACCEPT AS WE ARE, BECAUSE THE INTERIOR IS THE MOST SIGNIFICANT AT THE END. AND THE FASHION COULD HELP US TO DO SO. UNFORTUNATELY THE IMAGES BY WHICH WE ARE BOMBARED ON INSTAGRAM OR WE CAN SEE IN THE MAGAZINES DO NOT HELP US TO ACCEPT OUR IMPERFECTIONS, ON THE CONTRARY - IT CAUSES THAT WE COMPARE TO THE PERFECTLY RETOUCHED PHOTOS OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, TRY HARDLY TO ACHIEVE THIS BEAUTY AND LATER ON GET FRUSTRATED AS WE SEE THIS IS NOT REALISTIC TO BE LIKE THEM. THIS IS NOT HOW IT SHOUD BE.
“We need average sized women in the modeling world. I want to see women who wear a four dress size, or a six, or an eight. Skinny and obese models should not be banned from the fashion industry. Rather, we should encourage the modeling world to represent the real world as far as size goes. I can guarantee that agencies can find women in every size range who are the right height and who the clothes look great on.�
Link: https://foothilldragonpress.org/181045/opinion/c97-bp/we-need-to-get-average-sizedmodels-into-the-fashion-industry/
MODELS TALKING
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKd38G338Qw
Stars get real about eating disorders, size discrimination, and the fashion’s fraught relationship with weight. Through candid conversations and neverbefore-shared stories, they describe what it’s like to challenge the status quo and why attaining a healthy body image is more important than booking a runway show. https://youtu.be/fnBLsgaHJec
Anok Yai, Adesuwa Aighewi, Paloma Elsesser, and more talk about fashion’s issues with diversity and representation.
https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=MCjxsFi8558
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3Pvi4ACTNQ
It seems like in fashion today there is a war between two extremes... the supper skinny and the super obese. Where is the middle and when will people focus more on healthy bodies and living rather than focusing on the extreme sides of the spectrum?
https://orangemag.co/orangeblog/2017/10/30/more-than-a-number-ageism-in-fashion
Fashion’s obsession with the newest and latest bleeds into the casting of young, often underaged, models. The use of young models has become so normalized that it’s newsworthy when “older” models such as Naomi Campbell appear on the catwalk. The presence of models in their 40s on the runway often signals conjures nostalgic feelings of when those models were in their so-called “prime,” both career-wise and age-wise.
https://time.com/how-to-fix-vanity-sizing/
https://www.byrdie.com/perfect-body
Here’s the thing, though: Statistically, it is almost impossible to have the towering height, flat stomach, cellulite-free thighs, blonde hair, and bright blue eyes we see so frequently in magazines and on Instagram. We know because we consulted census data, crunched the numbers, and determined that objectively, no one “looks like a model.” Not even models. Read on to learn how impossible the perfect “model body” really is.
https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20190311-how-social-media-affects-body-image
In a survey of 227 female university students, women reported that they tend to compare their own appearance negatively with their peer group and with celebrities, but not with family members, while browsing Facebook. The comparison group that had the strongest link to body image concerns was distant peers, or acquaintances.
POSITIVE CHANGE
https://www.forbes.com/sites/sboyd/2016/10/31/the-fashion-and-beauty-industries-celebrate-the-beauty-of-imperfection/#d77af973a4b8
The fashion and beauty industries used to rely on slim, beautiful models to represent perfection. However, if we’ve seen anything over the past year, it is that the industry is beginning to embrace imperfections. This is most likely due to the backlash they’ve receive for portraying unrealistic beauty standards. We all have unique perspectives on what ‘perfect’ means, and it isn’t easy to match someone else’s idea of perfection, which is why we are drawing attention to this fact — Perfection is an idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=158&v=XpaOjMXyJGk&feature=emb_logo
In one of the most famous Dove films, Real Beauty Sketches explores the gap between how others perceive us and how we perceive ourselves. Each woman is the subject of two portraits drawn by FBI-trained forensic artist Gil Zamora: one based on her own description, and the other using a stranger’s observations. The results are surprising‌
For her part, Cutler is speaking up for inclusion. “I feel like they are headed in the right direction and they are listening to their audience who have requested to see more women of diverse shapes and sizes,” she told E!. “I think if they continue to head in that direction, they will be on to a jackpot because that is reflective of what the average woman is in America.” https://www.allure.com/story/victorias-secret-plus-size-model
https://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/846053-diversity-report-new-
DIVERSITY IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY RACE
In March 2019, The Fashion Spot published its seasonal diversity report, which measures diversity of race, gender and size on the Fashion Week catwalks. The report documented a milestone in racial diversity, with runways across all four cities more inclusive than ever before. In New York, 45.8% of models were non-white. Paris came in second, with 39% models of colour, London in third and Milan – typically the least diverse city – in fourth on 31.8%. So good news in some respects, but on the other hand you have industry veteran Naomi Campbell telling Vogue as recently as April this year that her ads don’t run in certain countries because she is black.
AGE “Beauty is truly ageless. I hope we see more of this in all aspects of the industry” (Edward Enninful)
Bringing back classic faces has become a broader fashion week trend. Balenciaga has used multiple models aged over 50 for its last three shows in Paris, most notably Britta Dion and Britta Lund. Older women are a regular sight at Sies Marjan and Eckhaus Latta in New York, while Dolce & Gabbana and Daniela Gregis have repeatedly presented age-diverse catwalks in Milan. These brands are lauded for their decision. They are also still by far the minority. Just one out of every 200 models who appeared during the spring/summer ’20 runway season were aged over 50, per the Fashion Spot’s latest diversity report. Albeit slow, there is progress. The same Fashion Spot figures show there were 39 models in their 50s at the spring/summer ’20 shows last autumn, up from five during the same season in 2016. The median age of models at runway shows recognised by the Fashion Model Directory was 23 in 2019, up from 21 in 2014, with similar increases in age diversity for the catalogue, lookbook and advertising shoots they have on file.
SIZE
For many years, activists and critics of the beauty industry have been fighting for more representation of plus-size models. According to PLUS Model Magazine, “In the fashion industry, plus size is identified as sizes 10-14, super size as sizes 1X-6X and extended size as 7X and up”. Due to the fact that the industry has always been “one-size-fits-all,” plus-size individuals have been unjustly underrepresented. The industry has always been known to put models on strict diets and exercise regimens. Models have to pay close attention to what they consume, and these restrictions oftentimes lead to eating disorders. Plus-size models are tokenized and even urged to lose weight, contradicting their purpose entirely. Victoria’s Secret is one company that has been in the headlines for its lack of plus-size representation. Recently, Ali Tate Cutler made history for being the first plus-size model in a lingerie campaign.
Cutler says the industry is “headed in the right direction, and they are listening to their audience, who have requested to see more women of diverse shapes and sizes.� The fashion industry has always been blamed for being one of the root causes of body dysmorphia in individuals all over the world.
DISABILITIES
A rise of models with disabilities has been witnessed in the latest cycle of high-end fashion. More models with disabilities have breaking the glass ceiling and calling the industry their own. Teen Vogue recently made an industry-changing move by having three models with disabilities cover its September issue. Jillian Mercado, Mama Cax and Chelsea Werner all graced the cover, showing off the beauty of their individualities. It is incredibly hard to be a model with disabilities in the fashion industry. Keah Brown states in her article for Teen Vogue, “Disabled people and disabled models are still left out of most campaign ads and runway shows. This lack of representation has implications; when you go so long without seeing yourself, it is easy to interpret that lack of representation to mean you’re ugly and unworthy, that you deserve to be invisible or even worse, are grotesque. The erasure can have an impact on your mental health.” The one-size-fits-all notion of the modeling industry has serious implications in communities that don’t fit these norms world-wide.
TRANSGENDER
Transgender model castings increased from last season significantly. The Fashion Spot reported that the Spring 2020 New York Fashion Week was the second most gender inclusive New York Fashion Week in history. Out of the 2,327 models cast, 24 were transgender and 12 were models who identify as non-binary. This is in stark contrast to the Spring 2016 season where only three transgender models were hired.
PHOTOSHOP - FAKE WORLD
https://www.leeclarion.com/2019/anti-photoshop-initiatives-discourage-unrealistic-beauty-standards-in-ads
“We’re all consuming massive amounts of media every day, and we’re not necessarily looking at imagery that is real and true,” Foulkes said. “To try to hold ourselves up to be like those women is impossible because even those women don’t look like how they appear in those photographs.” Foulkes explained that the manipulation ban will cover several different characteristics, not just skin imperfections. “We will not digitally alter or change a person’s shape, size, proportion, skin or eye color, or enhance or alter their lines or wrinkles or other individual characteristics,” Foulkes said.
Y T I S R E DIV Diversity is a contentious issue in the fashion industry that is most notable and newsworthy during what is known as Fashion Month, which occurs twice per year, when every participating brand unveils its latest collections in a runway fashion show as part of either New York, Paris, London, or Milan Fashion Week. Each designer is responsible for producing two shows per year, a Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection and a Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection. Designers often choose models for the first 10 looks of the show that embody their brand and how the designer wishes to represent themselves and their new collection to he public (Okwodu, 2015). In my opinion it is crucial to people that have power in the fashion business to promote diversity.
E R U T U F Y “It’s hard to believe in an anti-wrinkle cream if it’s shown on a younger woman who is unlikely to have any,” says Renia Jaz
“Fashion doesn’t have any age, gender or race limit, so why restrict it in the visuals?” - JoAni Johnson They tend to use particular black, plus-size models for one shoot or campaign, never to be used again. It’s very short-lived experience.” “Sexy is a state of mind. I use it as a hashtag all the time on instagram ... #SexyStateOfMind.” Ashley Graham
https://luxiders.com/diversity-vs-inclusivity-fashion-industry/
Why does fashion have a part to play in racial equality? Because, it is one of the biggest industries in the world; one based on self expression and creativity. Fashion doesn’t just sell garments, it sells self esteem and personal identity; fashion cannot fulfil it’s true duty as an art form if it is not diverse nor inclusion. Also, every part of society needs to reform if there is going to be real change, and fashion is known for having a bad reputation with race. This study shows that what needs to happen next in the fashion industry is inclusivity - and that, inclusivity is not the same as diversity. Diversity is important but it is not nearly enough. In Wagner’s article she, also, described an incident where a black model was turned away from a cover shoot because “there was no hair and makeup team trained to do a black model’s hair”. This incident shows that hiring black models is not enough if the infrastructure in the industry is not built to accommodate them. This incident alone shows the need for a full infrastructural overhaul in every aspect of the fashion industry.
https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/diversity-inclusion-in-the-fashion-industry
Humility, is perhaps the most important virtue when it comes to conversations surrounding inclusivity and representation in the fashion industry. Systems and standards of beauty have kept many locked out of the industry for decades, and we are only now beginning to do the work to change things. The best we can do is listen to the voices of those who feel underrepresented and make adjustments where necessary. “Brands must shift from the use of palatable diversity as a means of being trendy, towards radical inclusivity as a core value that furthers the mission of the ethical fashion industry as a whole.�
QUO
TES
T-SHIRTS CAN BE AVERY POWERFUL PIECE OF WARDROBE. IT CAN BE AN EXTENTION OF OUR TONGUE. THROUGH T-SHIRTS WE CAN CONVEY OUR THOUGHTS OR BELIEVE; WE CAN CAUSE A STRANGER QUESTIONS SOMETHING. A T-SHIRT CAN BE ALSO A PIECE OF ART; WHEN PRESENTING SOME PAINTING, PHOTOGRAPHY OR GRAPHICS. I WILL TRY TO COMBINE BOTH OF THESE ASPECT.
i used picasso’s painting as a source of inspiration, because the people presented on his pieces of art are far away from what is considered the beauty, however the painting still are regarded as beautiful and admired by the whole world. The characters despite of being misshaped are not ugly. Meybe it’s because of their uniqueness and non-obviousness?
WHY ABSTRACT ART? BECAUSE IN THE ABSTRACT ART GEOMETRICAL SHAPES ARE MISSAHAPED ON PURPOSE, THUS NOT EVERYTHING IS PERFECT. THE SAME IS WITH FEMALE BODY. MALE AS WELL. BUT I WOULD LIKE TO FOCUS ON WOMEN’S BODY AS IT IS MORE SHAMED. AND THERE ARE TERRIBLE EXPECTATIONS IMPOSED ON THE WOMAN’S LOOK. SOME WOMAN ARE BORN WITH THESE PROPORTIONS AND PROPORTIONS OR HEIGHT IT IS NOT WHAT WE HAVE INFLUENCE ON. WEIGHT? YES, OF COURSE, BUT ALSO IN A LIMITED DEGREE. BUT HEIGHT AND PROPORTIONS? THERE IS NOT MUCH WE CAN DO ABOUT IT. WHAT IS INTERESTING ALSO EACH OF US IN ASSYMETRIC. LIKE THE SHAPES OF THE ABSTRACT ART.
MY T-SHIRT COLLECTION AIMS TO EMPOWER WOMEN. I WOULD LIKE TO SHOW THAT THE TRUE BEAUTY IS INSIDE. I WOULD LIKE TO TELL THEM THAT WE DO NOT HAVE TO BE PERFECT, BECAUSE NO ONE IS. MODELS AND CELEBRITIES WE CAN SEE IN GLOSSY MAGAZINES AND ON THE SOCIAL MEDIA HAVE TONE OF MAKEUP ON THEIR FACES AND THEIR BODIES ARE PHOTOSHOPED. DESPITE OF THIS THEY HAVE OTHER DEFECTS, THAT ARE COVERED. WE SHOULD FOCUS ON OUR INNER BEAUTY AND PERSUE BALANCED AND HEALTHY LIFESTYLE INSTEAD OF STRUGGELING TO ACHIEVE WHAT IS UNACHIEVABLE. WOMEN ARE NOT WORSE THAN MEN. UNFORTUNATELY THEY ARE STILL UNDERESTIMATED. WE SHOULD TEACH LITTLE GIRLS TO BE HEROSES INSTEAD OF PRINCESSES. WOMEN WITH PERSONALITY, WHO DREAM BIG AND WORK HARD CAN ACHIEVE EVERYTHING!
jacquemus is my favourite fashion designer. i love his aesthetics and the colour palette he uses. I DECIDED TO USE THE COLOURS PALETTE FROM HIS COLLECTIONS WHEN DESIGNING MY T-SHIRTS.
jacquemus jacquemus
my t-shirts are inspired by picasso, asymetric shapes AND THE COLOURS PALETTE FORM JACQUEMUS FASHION SHOW. all of the quotes intend to epower women and boost their self-esteem.
VECTOR TEMPLATES & MOCK-UPS
DOVER STREET MARKET
Collage (from the French: coller, “to glue�; [1]) is a technique of an art production, primarily used in the visual arts, where the artwork is made from an assemblage of different forms, thus creating a new whole.
MY COLLAGE
INSPIRATION
FOR MAKING THE COLLAGES AS THE INSPIRATION I USED BODY IMPERFECTIONS AND DIVERSITY. THEY REFLECT THE DIVERSITY OF PEOPLE: VARIOUS BODY SHAPES, SKIN COLOURS AND IMPERFECTIONS LIKE ACNE OR CELLULITE. MY AIM WAS TO CREATE COLLAGES THAT REFLECT THE SOCIATY AS IT IS.
L A Y O U T
aesthetics
photoshoot moodboards
the end