Marlinspike #32

Fall 2021

Number 32

Rolling on the River: What happened with the Mary E? New Owners for Hawaiian Chieftain The Lost Anchor of Sorlandet Gloucester Schooner Festival

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MICHAEL RUTSTEIN

Big Stakes The pandemic has hammered the sail-training industry for 18 months now — cancelling programs, pre-empting in-person fundraising, diverting public funding, and crippling the hiring process. While some boats have found ways to keep operations going and/or donations flowing, others have not. Everyone is struggling to find good crew, to keep up with maintenance, to rework partnerships with schools and others whose operations have also been disrupted.

In this atmosphere, top-level hiring decisions become much more consequential. Currently Pride of Baltimore and Roseway are in the process of hiring new development people (Pride, a director, and Roseway, a coordinator) and the stakes could not be higher for these two high-profile programs.

Revenue from operations has never been harder to predict, moving fundraising from “critical” to “life-or-death” — and over-the-horizon programs often struggle to consistently and effectively engage donors. In our autopsy on Ocean Classroom (Marlinspike #4) several stakeholders lamented the failure of that over-the-horizon operation to build and sustain a strong base of support back home. It was a failure that would eventually prove fatal.

Pride and Roseway are benchmark programs for the sail-training industry.

Pride II is the most iconic and wide-ranging of our sail-training vessels, an ambassador not just for Baltimore and Maryland but for the industry and the nation. Roseway and Harvey Gamage are among the last vehicles of sail training the way it used to be: wooden schooners running longer-form sail-training up and down the East Coast, and as far as the Caribbean.

So let’s spread the word, beat the bushes, and fill these posts with innovative, courageous fundraisers who have what it takes to keep the boats strong, the berths full, and the coffers overflowing — whatever variant may come along next.

MARLINSPIKE MAGAZINE Fall 2021 • Number 32 Michael Rutstein, Publisher Marlinspike is published quarterly for $29

by Pennant Publications, Inc., 98 Washington Square #1 Salem, MA 01970 Cover Photo: M. Rutstein Postmaster: send address changes to Marlinspike 98 Washington Square #1, Salem, MA 01970 Copyright 2021 by Pennant Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Michael Rutstein, Publisher

4 b Rolling on the River

28 b Gloucester Schooner Festival

Awaiting the report on the knockdown of the MARY E

Pix from another epic weekend in Le Beau Port

10 b Saving the Chieftain New owners face major work on the 1988 steel ketch

16 b The Lost Anchor of Sorlandet One of the “twins” is lost — and found again

22 b “Honesty Unites Us” E-chatting with the Captain of KRUZENSHTERN

32 b 38 b 42 b 44 b 46 b

Boats, Bars & Beaches Boatyards Sailing Opportunities Name That Boat Show Us Your Spike / Tattoo

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Rolli

Top and middle: stills from on-board video taken by MARY E passenger Peter Nordlander. Aired by News Center Maine.

Full video and interview available online Bottom: still from video aired by News Center Maine. Full video available online

ng On the River The Maine Maritime Museum’s schooner MARY E suffered a knockdown on the Kennebec River this summer, but it will be months before we know what caused the newly-rebuilt vessel to founder On July 30, the Mary E, a recently-rebuilt schooner belonging to the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, was knocked down while on a public sail in the Kennebec River.

The schooner did not right herself, but did not sink, remaining on her beam ends as 18 people — 15 passengers and the crew — ended up perched on the hull or in the cold water.

Rapid response by local firefighters, Sea Tow, and passers-by on the river led to the successful rescue of everyone on board. Three people were taken to a hospital, Coast Guard officials said, although nobody was seriously injured and the worst diagnosis was mild hypothermia.

Neither the Coast Guard or the Maine Maritime Museum was willing to speculate on what caused the knockdown. In a written release, the Museum stated only “The vessel heeled over and some of the passengers ended up in the water. Life jackets were provided to all passengers.”

“It tilted more and more,” passenger Dr. Peter Nordlander told News Center Maine. “The wind increased.

The boat tilted more and more, very slowly. You first saw water coming in from the railings.”

Video footage by Nordlander, aired by News Center Maine, provided more clues. The skies that afternoon were partly sunny, and although it was clearly a blustery day on the river, the footage does not show alarming wind velocity or whitecaps either before the knockdown, when Nordlander’s wife is shown helping to raise the mainsail, or afterwards, when passengers are shown on the hull and in the water, calmly awaiting rescue.

The mainsail and staysail appear to have been set at the time of the knockdown; the foresail did not appear to be set; the mainsail did not appear to be reefed. No damage to the hull, sails, or rig was visible in the footage.

The Nordlanders praised the crew and the first responders, said the incident shouldn’t dissuade people from taking the cruise in the future, and donated their refunded ticket price back to the Museum.

There was speculation online that the knockdown might have been precipitated by the schooner touching bottom, but this was not mentioned by either the USCG or the Museum.

The Mary E remained afloat but awash after the incident. She was towed to shallow water at the edge of the river and on August 1 was righted, pumped out, and towed to the Robinhood Marine Center in Georgetown, Maine.

“It is the Museum’s hope that we will get the Mary E back sailing as soon as the work is done to assure the vessel is safe to carry passengers,” stated a Museum release.

“Mary E is the last surviving schooner built on the Kennebec River and Maine Maritime Museum is committed to returning it to its mission of carrying our guests on educational and scenic sails on the Kennebec River.”

Many owners, several rebuilds Built in Bath in 1906 by Thomas E. Hagan, the Mary E is on the National Register of Historic Places. Originally engineless, she was used as a fishing vessel and cargo carrier out of Block Island for many years and later as a gas-powered dragger out of Gloucester, Massachusetts.

Clarence W. Leveille purchased her in 1950. Leveille used her for net fishing out of Gloucester, increasing her crew and replacing her gas engine with a diesel. By 1960 she was abandoned, and she sank in a Thanksgiving Day hurricane in 1963 in Lynn Harbor, Mass.

Two years later, William R. Donnell II of Bath, knowing his great-grandfather had been an associate of Hagan, purchased the hulk and raised it. He brought it to Bath and began a two-year renovation on the grounds of what is now the Maine Maritime Museum. After this restoration, the schooner worked as a passenger vessel out of Rockland, Maine, and then out of South Street Seaport in New York City.

The Museum’s website states, “It is believed that the Mary E was the first historic schooner to be certified as a USGC passenger vessel and paved the way for the entire Maine Windjammer Fleet to become likewise certified vessels.”

In 1971, the vessel was sold to Robert Morse of Morse Marine in Boothbay Harbor. Later she was sold to jazz musician Teddy Charles, who sailed her to New York where

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Top and middle: drone stills of the recovery effort ourtesy of Frank Bedell. Full video available on YouTube Bottom: still from video aired by News Center Maine. Full video available online

she was one of the first schooners sailing out of South Street Seaport. In 1990, Captain Charles moved her to Greenport, NY where she sailed as a passenger vessel and traveled to Key West, Florida in the winters.

In 2006, Matt Culen purchased her and began a major restoration effort with Captain Eric Van Dormolen in collaboration with the Long Island Maritime Museum in Greenport. He later moved her to the Connecticut River Maritime Museum docks, and had been running river tours there every summer.

USCG investigation. A comparison of the original design and rig with the current configurations would, of course, be of interest.

Photos of the rebuilt vessel underway do show quite a bit of bottom paint above the waterline, suggesting a boat that was riding high and light.

Reportedly the Mary E did have watertight compartments, but not external ballast. While external ballast might have prevented the knockdown, it also might have caused the swamped vessel to sink instead of remaining awash.

Return to Bath

Potential lawsuits

The Museum acquired the Mary E in 2017 and the vessel was restored on the Museum campus by Andros Kypragoras from 2017 to 2018. Shipwrights cut off the transom, reframed the last 12 feet of the vessel on both the port and starboard side, and replaced almost all of the framing and planking above the waterline. Other parts of the restoration included installation of a new engine and a redesigned rig. Kypragoras did not respond to our request for an interview.

Mary E was relaunched in 2018 and certified to carry passengers, although it is not known if a new stability letter was required. According to the Museum's website, the Mary E was scheduled for a 2.5-hour river sail the afternoon of July 30. She would have sailed past the site of Hagan’s yard, where Mary E was originally built, as well as the Bath Iron Works. While there are some shoal areas in that section of the river, they are buoyed and the navigation is not considered difficult.

Given that the schooner’s captain at the time, J.B. Smith, is a vastly experienced sailor and a well-respected figure in sail-training circles, speculation has focused on the stability characteristics of the rebuilt vessel. Neither the USCG or the Museum would discuss the current stability characteristics of the schooner, pending the results of the

Although no deaths or serious injuries resulted from the July 30 incident, it is widely anticipated that the well-funded Maine Maritime Museum will be the target of lawsuits from passengers claiming personal injury, pain and suffering, etc.

In late August, a month after the knockdown, the Museum’s attorney, William H. Welte, filed a complaint looking to stave off such lawsuits, requesting “exoneration from or limitation of liability” in U.S. District Court in Portland.

Welte wrote that the Museum “used due diligence to make the subject vessel seaworthy and safe" and that it was “properly equipped and supplied, and in all respects seaworthy and fit for the services for which she was engaged.”

Welte wrote that he has reason to believe lawsuits will be filed, and that the claims “do or will greatly exceed” what the Museum claims is the $150,000 post-casualty value of the Mary E. The museum denies causing or contributing to any such injury.

Coast Guard Reaction The USCG investigation will probably not be concluded and released until the late winter or early spring.

While the process takes years, the Coast Guard does

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Still from video aired

by News Center Maine.

Full video available online

react to marine incidents. The loss of the John F. Leavitt eventually led to new standards for wooden boat-building; the dismasting of sailing excursion vessels in Hawaii and Key West led to increased attention to rig inspection; and the well-publicized fire aboard the California dive boat Conception, which claimed 34 lives, has already led to additional inspections aboard vessels with overnight accommodations.

Most recently, the USCG has introduced “Risk-Based Inspections” stipulating additional inspections for 870 vessels — about 12% of the small-passenger fleet — deemed risky due to “compliance history, number of passengers carried, vessel type, vessel age, route, and history of peer vessels.”

Speculating that the Mary E knockdown will be blamed on insufficient stability characteristics that are the incremental result of many years of modifying and rebuilding an original vessel — a vessel that sailed successfully for over a century — how might the Coast Guard’s inspection department react to that news? These are not recommendations, merely possibilities, but: The USCG could insist on a new stability test and letter for any vessel undergoing significant changes to her hull or rig; The USCG could re-inspect and re-certify vessels built before a certain year, particularly those without subdivision or external ballast; The USCG could issue guidance that allows sailing only in the absence of NOAA watches, warnings, or alerts; The USCG could issue guidance as to reduction of sail in certain conditions, and could add reefing and sail-handling drills to underway inspections; Valid objections can be raised to all those 8

potential reactions. They would cost boat operators time and money. They would not guarantee safety. There will always be resistance — and rightly so — to any regulations that take decision-making away from captains and operators on the scene. Forecasts are frustratingly inaccurate, especially when it comes to wind strength and direction.

All of these reactions do have the potential to increase passenger safety. However, safety is not the guiding principle of sail training. A small, calculated, but finite amount of risk is necessary for sail-training to have its life-changing impact.

Whether or not day-sails like the ones conducted by the Mary E qualify as “sail training” or should be held to higher standards more appropriate to passenger vessels, where there is little or no expectation of passengers getting involved in operations, is another question. ❂ The Maine Maritime Museum has declined to discuss the incident until the USCG report is released. The USCG likewise will not comment until their investigation is concluded.

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Saving the Chieftain A young couple has set their sights on the restoration of the veteran sail-trainer Hawaiian Chieftain, which has not sailed since before the pandemic.

The plan is to return her to Hawaii, where she was built in 1988.

After several years on the hard, Hawaiian Chieftain has new owners. Aubrey Wilson and her husband Matt have purchased the ketch from the Grays Harbor Historical Society, planning no less than a complete restoration and COI reinstatement.

Eventually, they plan to sail her to Hawai’i, where she will once again take on passengers for day sails, be available for tours and events, and offer educational programs and sail training opportunities.

Marlinspike spoke to Aubrey in September.

Marlinspike: Aubrey, I understand that you have some traditional sail experience from an earlier time in your life.

Aubrey Wilson: Well, I sailed for four years as a deckhand on Niagara and Tole Mour and Roseway.

I was in college, Colorado State University, and we took a family vacation to the Caribbean. We went to Antigua.

We’re from Colorado, totally landlocked. That’s the first time I saw a ship just sailing and I was like, “Oh my God, people still do this? This needs to be my life.”

So after I graduated, I looked around for a ship I could get on board without having any experience.

I found an apprenticeship on Niagara, basically called them up. They were doing two-week programs...

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MS: Was Wes Heerson running the boat at that point?

AW: Wes was the captain. Jamie Trost was chief mate.

Billy Sabatini was, I guess, second mate. I had a great time.

It was awesome. They were like, “Hey, we need help uprigging. So if you come early in the season and help us uprig the boat, then we’ll waive the fee for the training course. And then if you like it, you can stay on and become an apprentice deckhand. And from there you move up to a paid position.”

And so that’s what I did. I think they’ve figured out since then that people actually do want to uprig and downrig a ship, and that they’ll pay for that experience, too. But at the time they were just like, “Hey, can you help?” I was like, “I am there.” And that’s the first time I ever really went sailing.

MS: How long were you on Niagara?

AW: Two seasons on Niagara. That was great. Loved it!

And then I did a delivery, took Roseway from Boston down to St. Croix. That was a great sail, but oh my God. I don’t know what it’s like now, but at the time… we got to the Caribbean and they were like, “So, we know we promised to pay you all...”

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The deal was, we were not getting paid for the voyage, but we’re getting sea time, right? And we all want to sail it anyway. That’s no problem. Once we got down there, they were supposed to start paying us, but we got down there and they were like, “So we can’t pay you yet, but we want you to keep working. And eventually we’ll probably start paying you. But we also have too many people on board. So we’re going to pull you aside one by one and see if if anyone’s interested in leaving and we’ll pay your way home.”

And I was like, “Oh my God, me! I’m not staying on.

This does not sound like it’s going to go anywhere good.”

Friday, we would just pull in to port, and get to play in LA all weekend, so that was nice.

Then I decided I wanted to be a scientist. I went back to school. I got another degree at the School of Mines, back in Colorado. And then I met my husband Matt at a ballroom dance studio during that time. And then he moved to San Francisco. We got married, and we moved to Hawai’i. He currently works for one of the telescopes here on the Big Island as a software engineer. And I was working at the volcano observatory on Kilauea for a minute. And then we had a baby! So we have a son. He’s two and a half.

MS: Wow.

MS: What was your next tall ship experience?

AW: That was Tole Mour, and that was amazing. It was Guided Discoveries and she was working with the Catalina Island Marine Institute, and we did a sea camp for kids, a weeklong sea camp. We took middle schoolers out Monday through Friday. We’d pick them up in Long Beach. And we would just go sailing out to Catalina and then take the kids snorkeling and teach them sailing, teach them some navigation, some marine science.

Part of the crew were traditionally trained sailors. And part of the crew were marine biologists. We had a lot of fun together teaching each other different things. And then on

AW: Yeah. Just all over the place, all the time. But I still love ships and have been looking. We’ve been in Hawai’i for five years now. Not a lot of tall ships in Hawai’i, it turns out. But I want there to be one. So it just, I don’t know, just kind of happened.

MS: How did you get connected with Chieftain?

AW: Matt and I went on a sail in 2013 together. We were dating at the time, living in San Francisco, and I wanted to take him sailing on a tall ship because I loved it, and

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he’d never been on a tall ship, and Chieftain was doing sails out of Sausalito, so I took him sailing on Chieftain. Just a day sail.

talked with Brandi [Bednarik] the Executive Director at Grays Harbor.

MS: How did you possibly sell Matt on this?

MS: And was it a nice day? Was it the kind of day that persuades people that they should own tall ships?

AW: Not really, no! It was kind of still and overcast and we did a lot of motoring, but we still raised the sails and sailed a little bit, had a good time. Yeah, that was it. We had one sail on Chieftain in 2013, and kind of forgot about it for years.

MS: Have you been following the tall ships industry here on the mainland? Through former shipmates, through the internet..?

AW: Yeah. We ended up on Grays Harbor’s mailing list because we went sailing on Chieftain, and so I’ve been getting their newsletter for the last eight years. And that’s how I found out that Chieftain was for sale. And that’s also how I found out that Jamie Trost was captain.

We had stayed friends, Jamie and I, over the years. We’d text once in a while. So I just texted my buddy, and I was like, “Hey, man, is your ship really for sale? How much?” I just started talking to Jamie and talked with him some,

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AW: Matt’s awesome. He’s down for an adventure anytime. Apparently he likes that I’m this crazy. When I say things like, “Let’s buy a tall ship and bring her out to Hawai’i,” he’s like, “Definitely.”

MS: So the plan is buy her, fix her up, sail her to Hawai’i. I assume you have to do quite a bit of the work before you sail her to Hawai’i.

AW: There’s a lot of work to be done. We’ve had multiple surveyors look at the ship, among them John Baird, Lee Ehrheart and Ian Weedman. I don’t yet have the results of the ultrasonic inspection, but we'll definitely be replacing steel in several sections of the hull, cabintop, and sole.

The bowsprit needs to be replaced, and it's starting to look like the mainmast as well. The engines need to be replaced, and the electrical system needs an overhaul. But hey, the sails are new!

She’s currently hauled out in Port Townsend. The first Coast Guard inspection was last week, and so now we’re compiling lists of all the repairs that we need to get her COI reinstated.

MS: I assume there was already a list, that she had stopped operating because Grays Harbor couldn’t satisfy the Coast Guard.

AW: I got that information from Grays Harbor before we purchased the boat. They said, “Here’s the list, here are the estimates we have from two years ago, and here’s how much we think it’s going to cost.” But then she’s just been sitting in the water for the last two years.

MS: Your plan is to do the work in Port Townsend?

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AW: We’re going to do what we can at Port Townsend Shipwrights. That’s who has her now, and that’s where she’ll be for the next, I’m guessing, at least a year. They were saying six months to a year, but we’re finding more and more damage, so maybe a little longer.

I mean, they’re finding things we didn’t know about, but we just kind of also assumed we would find things we didn’t know about, because we couldn’t do a full survey with her in the water. So I just took the estimates that Grays Harbor gave me and doubled them.

MS: I imagine that in Hawai’i, you can’t get a Lakes, Bays, and Sounds COI. Once you leave the harbor, there you are, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean! The standards for boats operating out of Hawai’i have to be a little higher than for a coastwise boat operating on the Great Lakes?

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CHIEFTAIN spent years on the West Coast, offering programs such as ‘Two Weeks Before the Mast’ and staging Battle Sails with her longtime partner, LADY WASHINGTON

RICK HORN STUDIO

CHIEFTAIN was taken out of service before the pandemic. GHHS announced that the cost of repairs exceeded the value of the vessel, and put her up for sale.

AW: I don’t know. I think the COI she had before was Limited Coastwise, partially-protected waters, and that’s really the lee side of every island here. So she’ll be able to operate with the same COI that she had, assuming that we can get that back.

MS: It sounds as if you haven’t got any experience in the management or administration side of tall ships; you were a deckhand. Does that concern you?

AW: No. I’m excited. I’m having a lot of fun. I’m learning the ropes. And I’m looking forward to the restoration, actually, even before we get her out here. I think restoring the ship is going to be fun. We’re going to fly out there as soon as we can.

MS: Are you planning to relocate to Port Townsend?

AW: We’d like to, probably next, well, summer. Or whenever toddlers can get vaccinated. We would be there now, except for the pandemic. But my dad’s ready to come and house-sit for us so we can just go and rent a place for a few months and hang out with the ship and meet with people. We want to replace the engines with electric motors and get solar on her and make her as clean-running as possible.

We want to run it clean out here in the pristine waters of Hawai’i!

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MS: So what are your plans for those pristine waters?

What’s your business plan? I’m not familiar with boat operations in Hawai’i. I don’t know what the boating season is, if it’s really year-round…

AW: It should be year-round. Sometimes it’s rainier than other times, but it’s always beautiful. Summer, everyone comes. Spring break and winter holidays would be the times when it’s just popping. And it’s been crazy, people coming in after being cooped up. I have friends who own charter businesses, snorkeling tours, dolphin swims, kayaking, that sort of thing. And they’re seeing a surge right now as the tourists are flocking back to the islands.

MS: Where would you base Chieftain?

AW: We don’t know yet. We’re looking around. It’s not so easy to get a mooring in Hawai’i, turns out, but there are places that are interested in hosting a tall ship. They want her to be there.

MS: Would those be resorts, or marinas..?

AW: Yeah. That would be cool. There’s not really a resort that owns a bay and can have a mooring, on the Big Island, at least. Ideally, we want her on the Big Island. So we’re looking at Kona, just because we live here, but we’re

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also looking at Maui, and we’ll just keep looking further afield if we need to.

MS: That’s the goal!

AW: I’m not sure what form that’s going to take. We were like, “Yeah, for-profit, we’ll start with that.” And now we’re like, “We want to partner with educational programs and get grants and stuff.” That would mean probably going non-profit.

MS: Where are the tourists?

AW: Everywhere. They’re everywhere. So that’s what I’m looking at now: where can she live in Hawai’i and what can she do and who wants to partner with her? So that’s where I’m at. I’ve mostly been organizing surveys and things in Washington still.

MS: In the meantime, without those sources of funding, how are you planning to pay for the work on the boat?

AW: We formed an LLC when we purchased the boat and we have just private funding. So far, that’s how it’s working.

We’re not actually trying to make money with this whole endeavor. It’s mostly just, we want to save the ship.

We want to see her sailing again.

And how cool would it be if we brought her to Hawai’i and there was a ship that was built in Hawai’i, back in Hawai’i, doing sails and educational programs and sail training and making enough money to take care of herself? I don’t know. That’s the goal.

MS: I understand before you head back to Hawai’i in the boat, that you’ve promised Grays Harbor a farewell party. That’s going to be an emotional thing.

AW: That’s going to be awesome.

They’ve been great. And they’re excited to see her restored. I talked to Brandi, we keep in touch. They still have a bunch of Chieftain’s stuff, actually: all the sails, PFDs, all the stuff they had for Chieftain, it’s just piled in a warehouse somewhere and they’re hanging on to it for us while we fix her up.

We’ll bring her back down, have a little reunion. Maybe she’ll hang out there for a minute. We’ll get crew.

MS: Do you envision operating Chieftain like Grays Harbor did? As a non-profit?

AW: Well, I’m not sure. We started off with a for-profit. We’re going to see what makes the most sense because we want the ship to make enough money to take care of herself. Ideally that’s what everyone wants, right?

MS: So here’s a question out of left field. A couple of former Chieftain crew were on my boat this summer, and they were saying, “We heard that when the Chieftain was built in Hawai’i, she had little secret compartments for contraband cargo” implying that she had been smuggling drugs, or at least that was the plan of the guy who built her.

Have you ever heard anything like that?

AW: I heard that too! From Jamie. He’s like, “When we went to do some repairs, we discovered these compartments.” I was like, “Did you leave them?” He’s like, “No.” I actually am in contact with the original architect, so I’ll ask him about it!

MS: I don’t know if it would be the architect, unless they were designed spaces… maybe it was the people who were actually building the boat, on the beach there, that were putting in those secret compartments?

AW: Well, I’m in contact with some of them, too, so I’ll ask. b For more information on the rebuild, visit sailhawaiianchieftain.com.

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The

Lost Anchor of Sorlandet Nadia Dale In a jewelry box at my parents’ house, there is a necklace made from the round droplets of weld spatter off an old spare anchor belonging to the Norwegian square rigger, STS Sørlandet, where I spent some of the happiest summers of my youth as a Cook’s Mate.

The memories of those summers, like the necklace, have been tucked away in the corners of my mind until recently, when I wanted to find out the real story of how that ill-fitting spare anchor came to be on board — or back on board, I should say.

The necklace was made for me by one of the bosuns as part of an ongoing joke. He and the deckhands spent days working on that spare anchor one summer while we were alongside in the ship’s home port, Kristiansand. The anchor refused to sit properly in the chalks on the forward port side of the vessel. I gave him a hard time, and bets were made to see how long it would take to fix the problem. No matter what the crew tried, the anchor never quite settled right.

From her launch in 1927 until the summer of 2011, Sørlandet had been flanked by her original anchors — twins, a thousand kilos each — which predate the ship herself.

There was also a spare anchor on board, but as the ship was not required to have a third anchor, the Sørlandet Foundation decided to dispense with the spare. After all, the twins had served them well for 84 years. They gifted the backup anchor to the community of Kristiansand, an important supporter of the ship. It was loaded onto a truck and hauled away to a nearby traffic circle, where concrete had been poured in preparation for the arrival of the historic centerpiece.

For the next few years, Sørlandet carried on with business as usual, running fjord cruises and summer programs out of Kristiansand. New crew members joined the ship, including two ABs named Johannes and Mads.

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In later years, I became acquainted with Tobbe, Johannes and Mads. I had heard the legend of Sørlandet’s lost anchor, and when I discovered the three of them had been on board that fateful summer, I asked them each to talk me through what happened.

According to Johannes, the weather was miserable in May and June of 2011. The crew had to wear thick sweaters and long pants. Shortly after Mads joined, the ship departed Kristiansand with a group of students from a nearby navigation school. The new crewmembers hadn't had the opportunity to get to know the vessel, or the systems on board. What was more, the crew hadn’t had the chance to get to know one another or to learn to trust each other’s skills and expertise.

As the ship headed north to Trondheim, the weather worsened. The wind was blowing so hard it was impossible to set sails. The seas were rough, and as the oncoming waves slammed into the hull, the freeports shut with deafening clangs. Sørlandet was not making headway. Defeated, the crew motored into the nearby Geirangerfjord to take shelter and regroup.

“We were only two ABs on and no bosun, so Mads and I were doing six-six,” Johannes explained.

In other words, they each worked six hours on, six hours off. It was Johannes’ watch when they motored into the fjord. Once inside the protected waterway, the sea was calm. He made the anchor ready as instructed, but his sixhour shift came to an end.

He handed over to Mads and headed to his bunk to sleep. Once well inside the shelter of the fjord, the captain ordered the crew to drop anchor. The First Mate was in charge on the foredeck and Mads was stationed under the foc’sle beside the anchor chain locker, to ensure the chain ran out smoothly.

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NADIA DALE

“It was the first time I ever dropped the anchor on Sørlandet,” said Mads. He explained that from the beginning, he felt as though the First Mate doubted his abilities, and he didn’t blame her. He was new to the ship and the crew, an unknown variable.

They dropped the anchor with a splash. It sunk beneath the surface. Below the foc’sl, Mads kept his eyes on the chain. It started to run out, then it stopped. Mads was puzzled. The anchor couldn’t be at the bottom yet.

The First Mate came down from the foc’sl to try to figure out what had happened. The weight of the anchor should have been enough to make the chain run a full 30 meters. The First Mate dashed back up the stairs and looked over the side. Then she ran down again. Not seeing

Chris Richm mond crichmond d@allenif.com

anything wrong, she ordered Mads to use hydraulics to let out more chain. Once about 30 meters were let out, they backed the ship to test if the anchor was holding.

Presumably they were satisfied, as a little while later the Chief Engineer turned off the engine.

Mads recalled what happened next.

“I was walking around on deck. It was so nice and calm, so I was just enjoying it. And then all of a sudden it got hectic, because we started drifting.”

The anchor was not holding. As the ship drifted closer to the shallows, the atmosphere on deck became chaotic.

They needed to start the engine, haul up the anchor and motor away from the coastline. Starting the engine on Sørlandet is a lot more complicated than simply turning a key, which is why the engineer is in charge of operating the controls.

Unfortunately, the engineer was nowhere to be found.

“Sørlandet is a great ship, but it’s not a big ship. So, I don’t know where the hell the guy went, you know?” Mads chuckled.

He recalled a lot of yelling at that point. Luckily, the First Mate knew her way around the ship enough to get the engine started. Once the engine was running, Mads hauled up the anchor using the windlass. As the end of the chain broke the surface, the crew stared, mystified. The anchor was no longer attached.

Johannes slept through the entire ordeal. I asked him whether it was unusual for the chain on Sørlandet to stop running out before the anchor hit bottom.

“Yeah,” he replied. “You have one ton of anchor and 30 meters to the bottom, then at least 30 meters of anchor chain should run out.”

Mads proposed a theory as to why the anchor disappeared.

“Evidently what had happened is one of the chain links snapped immediately when it got tightened up,” said Mads. “It’s just a coincidence.”

When Mads returned to work on the Statsraad Lehmkhul at the end of that summer , the crew gave him a rough time about losing Sørlandet’s anchor. To this day, he hasn’t lived it down. Grudgingly, Johannes admits it probably was ENDORSED BY

AllenIF.com/tallships | (8 800) 439-4311 18

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not Mads’ fault. These things happen.

the past. In order to find these ships, he had to teach himself to read gothic writing and interpret old Norwegian.

Meanwhile, the loss of the anchor in the GeirangerHe searches archives for old papers in order to discover fjord was a real blow. If it wasn’t embarrassing enough to more wrecks. The secret, he revealed, is to listen carefully to lose an antique piece of a historic ship, the Sørlandet old stories and decide what is real and what is not.

Foundation had to sheepishly take back the spare anchor Morten, who dives mostly as a hobby but does occathey had just donated to Kristiansand. The anchor was once sional commercial diving, was eager to join the search. It again loaded onto a truck. Once it was safely on board, the was what he called his boyish treasure hunt instincts that ship could sail again. drew him to the project.

But an anchor lost in “We needed side scan 30 meters of water is not sonars, salvaging equipnecessarily gone forever. ment, all these things,” As news of the lost said Remi. “We spent a anchor spread, amateur couple of days searching divers launched an effort on the position given to to find it. When Remi us by Sørlandet at that Stridh was presented with time, but it was quite clear the opportunity to join quite quick that the posithe search, he couldn’t tion we got was not the resist. right one, because there Remi recalls standing was nothing to find.” on deck chatting with the After four unsuccessFirst Mate when he was ful dives, they went back on board Sørlandet as a to Sørlandet for more guest sailing up north. information. The ship When she learned he was sent them a screenshot of a diver, she told him the the chartplotter from the story of losing the anchor day the anchor was lost, in the fjord. He was including coordinates and the ship’s track. From intrigued. there, Remi could better “When I got home, I gauge the area they needrounded up a couple of ed to search. Then came my friends, including my the preparations for a [twin] brother Morten,” much more thorough Remi explained, his eyes search of the fjord floor. shining.

“We bought a shitDiving is a tradition load of rope, a bunch of in the Stridh family. Remi light sticks, different and Morten’s father dove MARIUS REMOY CARYN B. DAVIS anchors, buoys. A lot of before dry suits were invented. He had also After clarifying the position of the lost anchor stuff,” said Remi. borrowed a sailed on the Statsraad with SORLANDET, the twins scored quickly boat They from the Geiranger Lehmkhul when he was harbor services, and even young. At age 15 or 16, brought underwater scooters. They were prepared to search Morten and Remi spent two months sailing on a large area. They began at the point where they thought the Christian Radich, and eight months learning maritime they were most likely to find the anchor, and made a patskills on land at the same time as they were earning their tern with rope, using light sticks, anchors and buoys. It took scuba certification. The brothers clearly inherited a passion an entire day. for diving, though diving, in and of itself, is not the main The following day they returned to prepare for the attraction for the brothers. dive. Remi, Morten and their friend Marius completed final “The diving is not what you do, it’s just the way to get preparations, which included putting on their dive gear over there,” explained Remi.

Both brothers enjoy a good treasure hunt. Remi likes to their dry suits — tanks and regulators, buoyancy compensators, weight belts, gloves and fins. Morten was ready dive to see shipwrecks, whether exploring 1724 merchant ships where he can find gold and silver coins, or World War before the others. Impatient with excitement, he hopped off the boat and began the descent. Within two minutes, he II wrecks where he can learn about the lives of sailors from MarlinspikeMagazine.com

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had found the anchor, before the other two could have their fun. With mixed feelings, they left a marker and prepared to return to haul the anchor out.

“We hooked on some salvaging bags and lifting bags and fired off, and it came up quite nicely, actually,” Remi smiled proudly.

They had the anchor blasted and painted at a local shipyard, and it sat in the garden in front of Morten’s house awaiting the return of Sørlandet to the Geirangerfjord.

I was coming to the end of my final summer as Cook’s Mate on Sørlandet when the ship finally returned to the fjord. We were en route to Ålesund, the second host port of the 2015 European Tall Ship Races. After winning silver in the race, we took a slight detour to collect the missing anchor before heading into Ålesund.

Statsraad Lehmkhul, Christian Radich and Sørlandet, known as the trio of Norway, sailed into the Geirangerfjord together to celebrate the occasion.

The fjord is on the west coast of Norway, stretching 15 kilometers inland to the town of Geiranger. The fjord is winding, as though it was painted with the broad steady strokes of a brush.

With every bend, the surroundings feel increasingly private and secluded. I sat in awe on the wheel box, staring around at the lush, vibrant, other-worldly landscape in hues of deep green and blue.

The snowy-peaked mountains on either side fall straight into the calm water.

Once we arrived in Geiranger, there was a brief ceremony on shore, with the captain of the ship, the mayor of the town, and Morten Stridh. When the ceremony concluded, the anchor was handed over and brought aboard.

Instead of bringing the brothers closer together, finding the lost anchor caused a rift between the twins. After all, Remi had initiated the expedition, did the research as well as all the legwork, while Morten was invited along for the fun. Unfortunately, when Sørlandet returned to collect the anchor, Remi was away at sea, and he was barely mentioned in the media coverage of the event.

Morten blamed the reporters for misinterpreting his answers to their interview questions.

“I think Remi was a bit disappointed that he didn’t find the anchor,” Morten said.

Remi confessed he was frustrated his brother didn’t wait for the rest of the team to start the dive. He was even more disappointed he wasn’t able to be there for the handover of the anchor.

“Maybe he knows what I feel about it, but I’m not quite sure he understands at all,” said Remi of his brother’s attitude.

Despite their differences, the brothers continue to dive together. They are far from retired from treasure hunting.

“I actually heard that Lehmkhul lost an anchor in Gothenburg 10 years ago. I’m thinking about making an expedition to the Baltic Sea,” said Remi.

With the lost anchor back in its rightful place, there was a cosmic shift. Balance was restored, and in our final race of the season, from Kristiansand to Aalborg, Sørlandet won first place.

Today, she continues to sail, and the twin anchors flank either side of her bow, ready for duty. ❂ 20

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SAN SALVADOR Photo by Jerry Soto

“Honesty Unit Kruzenshtern’s captain extols the virtues of teamwork and loyalty — not to mention the importance of mentoring the next generation of Russian sailors Recently, contributing writer Gerhardus van Wilgen had the opportunity to chat via email (and Google Translate) with Mikhail Eremchenko, Captain of the famous Russian sail-training vessel Kruzenshtern.

As to the crew of Kruzenshtern, the main crew is 58-60 people, graduates, of which 30 are officers and 30 are enlisted personnel. An important factor in the training of the crew is the continuity of generations and mentoring, when more experienced crew members pass on their invaluable experiGerhardus van Wilgen: What is ence to new crew members. your position?

I personally studied with famous captains, who passed on their personal, Captain Mikhail Petrovich life experience, their experience of sailEremchenko: My name is Mikhail ing, setting, cleaning sails, and their Petrovich Eremchenko, my position is ability to manage a team and work in the captain of the sail-training ship a team, which I am very grateful for: Kruzenshtern. I have been working at Captain G.V. Kolomensky of the the Kruzenshtern for 25 years. I have Sedov, and Captain Novikov. gone from a deck crew sailor to a capThis is the continuity of generatain. The main crew of the ship, the tions, and after becoming a captain, I "backbone" of the ship, has experience am preparing a shift for myself, so that comparable to mine. The crew mema worthy person will come to the capbers occupying key positions on the tain's bridge of the Kruzenshtern after ship have worked at Kruzenshtern for me. To operate a four-masted barque 5-10 years and more. They are real prowith a sail area of 3,700 square meters fessionals in their field, experienced is a difficult task, and preparation mentors and first-class instructors of takes a long period of time. They marine specialties. become captains for a larger sailboat after working for more than 10 years, as a rule, having passed all the stages GvW: What is the main purpose Capt. Eremchenko of navigational service. These are oneof the vessel? of-a-kind people who are brought up and raised on sailing ships.

Capt. Eremchenko: The main task of the ship's crew is to conduct sailing practice for cadets of higher and secondary GvW: What is the most difficult part of your job? maritime educational institutions of the Federal Agency for Fisheries. This is the first practice for cadets after completing Capt. Eremchenko: Managing the crew. The leader the second year of maritime education. The end result of (captain) must have sufficient experience to manage a large sailing practice, passing by cadets of swimming practice and team; it is necessary to have experienced and qualified a qualifying examination with confirmation of competence deputies (heads of departments) capable of managing suborfor the title of a sailor, minder, electrician.

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tes Us”

BENSON LEE

KRUZENSHTERN (right) and SEDOV sailing in European waters. dinates; there must be a qualified rank-and-file staff capable of performing the assigned tasks.

A very important point is the moral climate that develops in the crew, and this climate must be created and maintained, so that the crew can live comfortably away from their families and their native shore. The crew on the ship must feel at home. Everything comes from the captain, what tasks and what kind of microclimate he creates in the environment of the chiefs of divisions. Such a climate is transferred to the rank-and-file cadets.

The most important factor is the conversation of the captain with all crew members — officer, sailor or cadet — for this it is necessary to conduct general meetings and individual conversations.

Each crew member has taken his or her own path to the Kruzenshtern, but when you come to the ship, you imperceptibly fall in love with the Kruzenshtern and the ship never lets go! I call it the "Kruzenshtern virus", which is incurable.

Crew training is a long and titanic daily work. To raise a sailing fleet specialist (sailor, boatswain), it takes from a year to three or four years. This is about the training of the instructor. But this is also a question of vocation and interest in working with sails.

I should note that Kruzenshtern is a civilian vessel, that prepares future marine specialists for the Russian fishing

industry.

In addition to knowledge and practical skills, it’s important that we educate our cadets about the great sea and land victories of Russia, the Soviet Union, and the great discoveries by Russian seafarers. Our cadets are brought up on the example of the great Russian naval commanders Ivan Kruzenshtern, Fabian Bellingshausen, Mikhail Lazarev, Fyodor Ushakov and others.

But the most important point in the sailing practice of cadets is the ability to work in a team, when the final result depends on you. It does not matter whether you work with the sails or with the rigging, or keep watch on the captain's bridge or in the engine room: it is important to instill a sense of responsibility and responsibility for the quality work performed, the end result.

The Kruzenshtern has fairly tough discipline. The need for discipline must be understood by every cadet, every future navigator officer or a ship mechanic officer.

Compliance with disciplinary rules, starting from first practice, instills order and responsibility, which will be useful in the future when a cadet will become an officer and will require compliance with disciplinary rules and regulations from his subordinates.

For cadets, working aloft, working with rigging on the deck, overcoming oneself, developing character and working

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TYRONE is a 1939 SS Crocker design, one of three SS Crocker-designed schooners at the Gloucester Schooner Festival this year.

Under new ownership, she is looking for a permanent homeport to begin offering public sails.

Photo by M. Rutstein

in a team, responsibility for the final result — all these factors unite, discipline and give a positive effect for each cadet in the process of training marine specialists — the future of the Russian Navy.

GvW: What qualities you are looking for in the next captain?

Capt. Eremchenko: Each captain thinks about transferring his position, his authority, his duties, his ship, to another captain. Of course, this is a matter of training the captain; this is mentoring. The training of a captain, and even more so a captain of a large sailing ship, takes a lot of time — years — both theoretical training and practical skills in man-

aging a large sailing ship.

But the most important factor in ship management is crew management. Any ship without a trained and professional crew is just an engineering structure capable of being afloat, and stuffed with various equipment. So recruiting a crew, building relationships with people, establishing a [hierarchy] of authority, discipline and order are the most important factors in building efficiency as a crew, and the entire ship as a whole.

The captain of Kruzenshtern should be, firstly, a professional navigator, and secondly, having passed all the steps of the navigational, sailing hierarchy — a sailor, who loves to sail, who loves the barque, who knows the whole ship, who feels, feels from the inside.

A commander who manages a large team must be honest with himself, first of all. If you are honest with yourself, then you will be honest with your subordinates, be considerate of them, take care of them. It is important to build that relationship with the crew and adjust the internal climate inside the ship so that people working and staying at sea for a long time feel comfortable and at home.

The captain who will replace me, of course, will be different from me, a different character, and finally this is a different, younger generation of navigators. But what will unite us is honesty, attitude toward work, attitude toward the crew, and, of course, love for the Kruzenshtern.

I was lucky to work and train with real professional captains my mentors, my teachers, Captain O.K. Sedov, Captain G.V. Kolomensky, Captain M.V. Novikov. I became who I became thanks to them.

GvW: Do you think the current generation, with their cell phones and selfies, is very different from the cadets when you first started out?

Capt. Eremchenko: Generations are always different. Of course they differ from previous generations; it does not matter with mobile phones and selfies or not, there will be new gadgets in the future, progress is inexorable. It is important to understand that there are no bad generations or students, there are only bad teachers!

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BENSON LEE

It is important to pass on knowledge and experience from generation to generation, and be a worthy mentor and teacher.

GvW: In terms of sailing, what is the most important piece of advice you will give to your successor?

Capt. Eremchenko: To continue to fall in love with each new generation of cadets! Our motto has always been and will be “Fight and seek. Find and not give up!”

Difficulties temper young people, and the ideal place for training future generations of sailors is on sailing vessels, no matter whether they are big or small!

KRUZENSHTERN was built in 1926 in Germany as PADUA (after the Italian city). She was surrendered to the USSR in 1946 as war reparation and renamed after the explorer Adam Johann Krusenstern (1770–1846). SEDOV was also built in Germany, in 1921.

GvW: Looking back on your career, what are you most proud of and what will you miss the most after retirement?

Capt. Eremchenko: I am proud to work on the Kruzenshtern, I am proud that I went from sailor to captain, I am proud that I was lucky to work with excellent mentors, crews, and with many people from all over the world!

I am proud that I am applying my strength, knowledge, experience to educate thousands of new Russian sailors! b MarlinspikeMagazine.com

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GLOUCESTER SCHOONER FESTIVAL September 2021 Clockwise from upper left: American Eagle and Roseway; Columbia; American Eagle; Ardelle; Resolute; Lewis Story; Alert; Ardelle goes wing-on-wing at sunset

GLOUCESTER SCHOONER FESTIVAL * September 2021 Clockwise from upper left: Roseway; Tree of Life; Lannon and Tyrone; Adventure; Tyrone; a Friendship sloop; Fritha. Middle: aloft on Columbia.

All photos by the publisher

❂

❂

BOSUNS I HAVE KNOWN. A good bosun is the beating heart of any complex vessel.

PICTON CASTLE’s twin sessions of Bosun School this fall and winter aim to develop rigging a

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Picton Castle is operating two sessions of their Bosun School this offseason: one focused on rigging, this fall, and one focused on sailmaking, over the coming winter. Both sessions will take place in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.

Bosun School is designed to help up-and-coming mariners enhance their hands-on seamanship skills and cover a wide variety of topics.

From October 5 to December 3, the focus is on rigging skills.

Attendees will learn how to conduct a rig inspection, identify which parts need to be repaired or replaced, and how to fix or make new parts. They’ll also learn to replace ratlines, send up topmasts, cross yards without the use of a crane, work aloft safely, worm, parcel and serve, make fibre seizings, make wire seizings, make fibre splices, make wire splices, handle lines under strain, work with different types of wire, fabricate new wire and rope rigging, and more.

From February 14 to April 1, the focus will be on sailmaking skills, both new sail construction and sail repair. Attendees will learn a variety of stitching techniques, both by hand and by machine, using a variety of materials, both natural and synthetic. They’ll learn sail repair, from quick-and-dirty to loft-quality, and when each is the right approach.

They’ll learn how to read diagrams and lay out new sails, and get hands-on practice with making grommets, roping, sewing tabling and corner patches, and the various knots, splices and seizings used in sailmaking.

Both sessions of Bosun School will be instructed by Captain

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Daniel Moreland, who needs no introduction in these pages.

Bosun School is open to anyone who has some sailing or boating experience and wants to expand their skill set.

Students must be in good health and capable of participating fully. Students are required to be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 (or provide proof of a medical exemption).

Applications are welcome from all nations, pandemic permitting.

The fee for the fall session (rigging) is about $4,500 USD, and about $3,600 USD for the winter session (sailmaking). The fee includes accommodations, food, instruction and all course materials. Scholarship assistance is available.

Those interested can apply by sending a CV/resume of maritime experience, along with a cover letter that explains why they want to attend this particular session of the Bosun School, to info@picton-castle.com. ★ Lake Champlain Maritime Museum was awarded a Battlefield Preservation Planning Grant through the National Park Service to conduct archaeological research at Arnold’s Bay. Their team will be conducting underwater and terrestrial surveys starting this month, and sharing weekly updates.

The battlefield site in Arnold’s Bay, located on the

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Vermont side of Lake Champlain, is where American troops under General Benedict Arnold burned their remaining fleet to prevent its capture by the British during the American Revolution.

The investigation of this nationally significant battlefield will produce site boundary and feature data that has yet to be gathered, and will modernize our understanding of the last crucial naval engagements in the 1776 campaign season, setting the stage for the Battle of Saratoga the following year.

Delineating site boundaries will also enable the site’s local stewards to be able to plan for the protection and preservation of this site in the future.

Looting of this site has been noted recently by the new landowner. By inviting the avocational community to be a part of our accredited metal detecting class, LCMM hopes to educate interested locals and turning them into site stewards. Investigating and mapping other battlefield features will help stewards of this site better understand the threats of erosion and zebra mussel colonization. ★ Mystic Seaport’s upcoming exhibit, Sea as Muse, explores the ways that the sea provided a similar inspiration for decorative arts in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Opening this month, the exhibit showcases fine silver trophies and woodcarvings from the vast collections of

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Mystic Seaport Museum. Dolphins and mermaids, seaweed and sea urchins, fast ships and ocean waves — visitors will find many delightful details like these, inspired by sea life and life on the seas.

Silversmithing tools and in-progress pieces loaned by the Providence Jewelry Museum help demonstrate the making process, and interviews with living artisans shed light on both the process and the preparation necessary. New research provides a rare glimpse of some of the immigrant artists and artisans of the past who used their talent and skill to create a variety of beautiful objects in the exhibit.

Sea as Muse is the fourth and final exhibit funded by a generous grant from the Henry Luce Foundation. Like Open Ocean, Sailor Made, and the 2020 reinstallation of ships’ figureheads, Sea as Muse brings new knowledge, insight, and perspective to treasures in the Museum’s collections. ★ The 18th National Exhibition of the American Society of Marine Artists (ASMA) will be hosted in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s Steamboat Building in St. Michaels from October 22 through February 22.

The ASMA biennial exhibition is a juried selection of paintings, drawings, sculptures, scrimshaw, and hand-pulled prints submitted by members. It will include work by many of the most prominent contemporary marine artists working in the nation today.

“We are thrilled to once again bring the nation’s best contemporary marine art to CBMM for our members and guests to take in and enjoy,” said CBMM President Kristen Greenaway. “We identify with the mission of ASMA, as we both raise appreciation for maritime culture and the marine environment to inspire stewardship.”

ASMA is a non-profit educational organization whose purpose is to recognize and promote marine art and maritime history and to encourage cooperation among artists, historians, academics, enthusiasts, and others engaged in activities relating to marine art. Its nearly 500 members include painters, sculptors, scrimshanders, and printmakers, all drawing inspiration from a relationship with the water.

“The founders of American Society of Marine Artists were mostly painters of tall ships and other vessels that ply the high seas. While maritime history is still at the core of our mission, today’s members also capture life under the sea, along the shorelines, and even in ponds, streams, and boathouses. The work contained in this exhibition truly does represent the finest in contemporary marine art,” said ASMA President Lisa Egeli.

Entry to the exhibition is free for CBMM members or with general admission. For more information, visit cbmm.org or call 410-745-2916. ★ The Michigan Maritime Museum broke ground for its new $3.6 million Maritime Heritage Center building on August 27.

The new 17,000-square-foot, two-story building will replace the one-story structure that has housed the Museum’s

In August, Captain Morgan (owned by Diageo, second-largest distiller on the planet) launched a line of ready-to-serve cocktails in three flavors: Tropical Punch, Mai Tai and Long Island Iced Tea. The Mai Tai and Tropical Punch have an ABV of 13%, while the Long Island Iced Tea has an ABV of 17%. All three have a suggested retail price of $19.99 for 1.75 ml, which is exactly what we paid at Total Wine in Massachusetts.

Rum aficionados will pass, but sunset sail operators looking for a quick pour may want to give these a test drive. We’ve had success with pre-mixed margaritas — the key is to avoid the flavored malt liquor versions, and make sure the one you serve uses real tequila. Plus lots of ice and a big fresh lime chunk! — MR

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for AMERICAN EAGLE

Schooner BAY LADY 85’ LOA steel hull launched 1987. COI for 87 + 3.

Located San Francisco, CA. Business purchase also an option. Asking $425,000.

Schooner AMAZING GRACE 58’ LOD ferrocement schooner, built 1991 by McQuiston & Sons in San Diego. New engine, rigging, electronics. COI for Lakes Bays & Sounds, 33 + 2. Located San Juan, PR. Asking $450,000.

Schooner ALLIANCE Three-masted schooner, 1995, steel hull built by Treworgy.

COI for 49 daysails, 12 overnight. Located Yorktown, VA. Boat and business for sale. info@sailyorktown.com Topsail Schooner WINDY 148’ custom steel hull, 1995, COI for 150, 36 overnight.

Located on Navy Pier, Chicago. Ship and business for sale, or ship only. Asking $2,100,000. Tallshipwindy@aol.com.

Schooner ATYLA Wooden hull built in Spain, 1984. EU certification for 24 trainees & crew. Located Spain. Asking 1.2 million Euro ($1,433,000).

Schooner MERCANTILE 1916 wooden-hulled schooner in the Maine Windjammer trade. LOD 79', COI for 49, 29 overnight. Brand new sails. Located Camden, ME. Asking $350,000.

Schooner WIND DANCER 63’ LOA Colvin-designed steel schooner, 1988. COI for “21 souls, total.” Located Grand Haven, MI. Asking $240,000.

Schooner CAPT. KIDD 55’ steel schooner, 2000. COI for 28. Located Seabrook, TX. Asking $190,000.

MERCANTILE

Schooner HALIE & MATTHEW 2006, fiberglass hull. Located Maine. COI for 100 on deck, 50 overnight. Asking $1,250,000.

Schooner AMERICAN EAGLE Bald-headed schooner in the Maine Windjammer trade. 1930, oak on oak. Located Rockland, ME. COI for 56 daysails, 28 overnight. SOLAS, PSSC. Asking $750,000.

Schooner MYSTIC WHALER 110’ steel schooner, built 1967. 97 tons. COI for 60, 15 cabins sleeping 34 overnight guests. Asking $680,000.

Schooner GRACE BAILEY 1882 wooden-hulled schooner in the Maine Windjammer trade. LOD 81', COI for 54 passengers, 34 overnight.

Brand new sails. Located Camden, ME. Asking $450,000

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LEE STEUER

Schooner RED WITCH Cypress hull built by Nathaniel Zirlott in Alabama, 1986.

77’ LOA. Current COI for 49. Located Kenosha, WI. Asking $149,000.

Schooner MISTRESS Built 1960, wooden-hulled schooner in the Maine Windjammer trade. LOD 46', successful six-pack windjammer. Located Camden, ME. Asking $110,000

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Greg LaRock’s “Restoration Conversation” will be on display in St. Michaels this fall. exhibits and programs for the past several decades. The opening is scheduled for June.

The Heritage Center is just one part of an ambitious $8 million campaign to expand the campus along the city’s harbor.

During construction, the Museum’s exhibit buildings will be closed. Friends Good Will and Lindy Lou will continue to operate through the month of September. Tickets are available online, or can be purchased on-site at the Padnos Boat Shed. b

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MARYLAND DOVE

GEORGE SASS

Christian Cabral, Shipyard Manager at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, MD, reports the late summer and fall in CBMM’s working Shipyard “have borne witness to some major milestones.”

Chief among the accomplishments of CBMM’s shipwrights is the installation of the shutter plank on Maryland Dove. The time-honored tradition of installing the last plank on any vessel is always marked with a dram of whiskey and a perceptible change in the goals of the builders. The last milestone is now in sight — launch, completion, and delivery.

Up next in the build are caulking, fairing, bulwarks, decking, deck furniture, interior installation, systems installation, and mechanical installation. Maryland Dove, with planking, caulking, and fairing complete, will be craned into the water later in the fall. Once floating, the vessel will remain dockside at CBMM’s Shipyard as the shipwrights continue the outfit of the vessel and the installation of its rig.

Alongside the now-planked Dove, the floating fleet team completed a record-pace railway season. CBMM’s floating fleet of historic vessels will remain on display throughout the fall and early winter, before being winterized and stored in their winter berths.

As always, completion of the railway season means the 38

team changes its priorities to long-term projects. This winter, the floating fleet team will add their formidable talent to the completion of the Dove.

On Thursdays in October, CBMM is offering the public immersive small-group tours of the Dove. Scheduled for 3:00 pm on Thursdays Oct. 7, 14, 21, & 28, the 45-minute tours will provide an up-close look at what it takes to build a historic maritime vessel in modern times. Led by CBMM’s shipwrights, each tour will give guests a more personal experience with Dove, a reproduction of the vessel that accompanied the first European settlers to Maryland in 1634.

Slated for completion in 2022, the iconic ship is owned by the state of Maryland and operated and maintained by Historic St. Mary’s City.

The cost to participate is $15 per person, with a 20% discount offered to CBMM members and registration required to cbmm.org/shipyardprograms.

To learn more about Maryland Dove, visit marylanddove.org.

H From the Jungle Shipyard in Costa Rica, Jeremy Starn writes: “Bonafide inventor Jeroen Vissers has joined us again from his home in the Netherlands! This time he has come

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even more prepared with a large swath of tools to build some truly impressive machines.

“During his two-month visit he plans on beginning the construction of a wood lathe for our 20-meter masts.

When Jeroen was last here in 2020, he built our steam boiler system from 1/4” sheet metal. The wood-fired oven can boil approximately 200 liters of water in less than 30 minutes.

“He has brought two friends who are helping realize this project. They are using a magnetic drill that Jeroen brought to drill through the keelson rider I-beam, keelson, frames, keel and two more I-beams.

“All of these layers will be tied together with galvanized bolts before being filled with concrete and lead.”

H “The windlass for Virginia is in,” reports Allison Hepler from Bath, Maine. “The engine’s been installed, stanchion rail finished, pinrail started.”

The knighthead of Virginia features a likeness of shipwright Rob Stevens, who has volunteered his services with Maine’s First Ship over the last 10 years.

Stevens has worked on many historic ships, new and renovated, including the Irving and Exy Johnson in Los Angeles, the Boston Tea Party Ship Museum ships, Denis Sullivan in Milwaukee, Harvey Gamage in Maine, and most recently the Providence, currently of Alexandria, Virginia.

Maine’s First Ship, the pinnace Virginia, is scheduled to be launched on June 4, 2022. Mark your calendar!

H Niagara’s cover came off at long last during the second week of September, as preparations began to get the brig

ready to be hauled out at Great Lakes Shipyard in Cleveland.

The ship will transit to Cleveland between October 68 and be hauled out on the 11th. Niagara will undergo regular maintenance of the hull and a refit of the stern. The stern refit will be completed with funding through the Pennsylvania Historical & Museum Commission (PHMC). The shipyard period and stern project is estimated to take five weeks.

The Flagship Niagara League will be leading the project and hiring ship carpenters and crew to assist.

Following the shipyard period, Niagara will return to Erie to be inspected by the USCG and then return to public visitation at the Erie Maritime Museum.

H FUEL’s schooner Shenandoah left Mystic Seaport Musem’s Shipyard on June 30 after an eight-month-long push to complete the rebuild of her stern.

The work was led by the Shipyard’s newly-appointed director, Chris Sanders. Ralph Packer donated his tugboat Thuban to bring Shenandoah back to Vineyard Haven.

Upon return, FUEL went immediately into 15 weeks of mostly sold-out summer programming.

“FUEL is finishing our inaugural summer with Shenandoah on Sept. 25. At that time, we will have served over 275 youth with diverse backgrounds and abilities from all over the US with a concentration on Martha’s Vineyard,” writes FUEL Executive Director Ian Ridgeway.

“We are thrilled to preserve and grow Shenandoah’s educational mission and are already working on our summer schedule for 2022.”

H

VIRGINIA MarlinspikeMagazine.com

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VIRGINIA education,” said outgoing Director of Maritime Programs Denied insurance after USCG inspectors called for and Campus Facilities Dan Goldbacher. replacing her deck and masts, Ocean Institute’s Spirit of H Dana Point is currently at Marine Group Boat Works in Currently Bristol Marine’s Shipyard in Boothbay Chula Vista, CA for a major restoration.

Harbor is finishing up all items Phase one of the project has from the earlier Phase 2 of the been completed, with the ship Ernestina-Morrissey rebuild. downrigged and both masts The Shipyard has signed unstepped. The masts were and started working on a Best shipped back to Ocean Institute Value Contract with and placed in the parking lot to Massachusetts Dept. of create a work and educational Conservation and Recreation platform during the restoration.

(DCR) to complete the vessel.

Ocean Institute will be The contract is funded through restoring and replacing the Commonwealth dollars, with standing and running rigging the added value of labor and with the help of volunteer crew other resources from the and project manager Capt. John Shipyard, for a total of $1.75 Kruse. million. The yard’s work is supMarine Group Boat Works ported through donations from is currently beginning the process the Schooner Ernestinaof dismantling Spirit’s existing deck at the yard in Chula Vista.

Morrissey Association (SEMA), generous private donations, and Once the decking and systems Coin from SPIRIT’s mast step fundraising efforts. are replaced, Ocean Institute As part of the contract, will bring Spirit home to re-step 8000 board feet of prime lumber has already arrived from the masts and re-rig the vessel.

Eden Saw of Washington State, and the yard is setting up “We are excited to get the ship back and continue our for the construction of the laminated spars. The education programs aboard and help continue Ocean Hundested controllable-pitch drive system has been Institute’s legacy of providing experiential maritime history 40

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ERNESTINA-MORRISSEY

SPIRIT OF DANA POINT SHENANDOAH

ordered and parts of it have already arrived.

Captain Tiffany Krihwan plans to be adding to her permanent crew by the start of 2022.

Current plans call for an early spring launch, with sea trials in May and delivery to Massachusetts Maritime Academy (MMA) shortly thereafter. b Got an update for Boatyards? E-mail us!

ERNESTINA ERNESTINA

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A select list of sailing opportunities open to the public.

WEST COAST Call of the Sea, Sausalito, CA (415) 331-3214 * CalloftheSea.org Educational programming aboard schooner Seaward and the new brigantine Matthew Turner.

Grays Harbor Historic Seaport, Aberdeen, WA (800) 200-5239 * HistoricalSeaport.org Sailing aboard the brig Lady Washington.

Los Angeles Maritime Institute, Los Angeles, CA (310) 883-6055 * LAMITopSail.org Sail-training for school and youth groups.

Maritime Museum of San Diego, San Diego, CA (619) 234-9153 * SDMaritime.org Day sails on Californian; coastal cruises on galleon San Salvador.

SALTS, Victoria, BC (888) 383-6811 * Salts.ca Sail training for youth, day sails for all, on two large schooners Schooner Adventuress, Port Townsend, WA (360) 379-0438 * SoundExp.org Overnight programs for teens, adults, seniors, and families.

Schooner Zodiac, Bellingham, WA (206) 719-7622 * SchoonerZodiac.com Windjammer cruises in the San Juan Islands, April-October.

Schooners North, Friday Harbor, WA (360) 378-2224 * SanJuanSailCharter.com Cruises from the San Juans to Alaska on the schooner Spike Africa.

GREAT LAKES Appledore Tall Ships, Bay City, MI (989) 895-5193 * BaySailBayCity.org Day-sails, charters, ed programs, and overnight opportunities.

Brigantine St. Lawrence II, Kingston, ON (613) 544-5175 * Brigantine.ca Sail-training programs on the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario.

Traverse Tall Ship Co., Traverse Bay, MI (231) 941-2000 * TallShipSailing.com Education, day-sails, charters, and multi-day windjammer cruises.

US Brig Niagara, Erie, PA (814) 452-2744 ext. 214 * FlagshipNiagara.org A wide variety of programs aboard Niagara and Lettie Howard.

EAST COAST Barque Picton Castle, Lunenburg, NS (902) 634-9984 * Picton-Castle.com Bosun School this winter, World Voyage 8 for Spring 2022!

Brilliant, Mystic, CT (860) 572-0711 * MysticSeaport.org Brilliant is an offshore classroom for Mystic Seaport’s ed programs.

Discovering Amistad, New Haven, CT (203) 498-8222 * DiscoveringAmistad.org

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Dockside tours and ed opportunities aboard replica slaver.

Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships, Boston, MA (617) 742-0333 * LibertyFleet.com Windjammer-style Caribbean cruises; day sails from Boston.

Maine Windjammer Association, Midcoast Maine (800) 807-WIND * SailMaineCoast.com Nine, count ‘em, traditional sailing vessels on the Maine coast.

Maine Windjammer Cruises, Midcoast Maine (207) 236-2938 * MaineWindjammerCruises.com Three traditional sailing vessels offering multi-day cruises in midcoast Maine from mid-May into October.

Ocean Passages, Portland, ME (855) 212-0123 * Ocean-Passages.org Long-form sail-training aboard the schooner Harvey Gamage.

Oliver Hazard Perry, Newport, RI (401) 841-0080 * OHPRI.org Workforce development and other sailing and dockside programs.

Pride of Baltimore II, Baltimore, MD (410) 539-1151 * Pride2.org Paid crew opportunities, educational programs and dockside events.

Schooner A. J. Meerwald, Bivalve, NJ (856) 785-2060 * BayShoreCenter.org Day and overnight Maritime Camp programs for children 13-17.

Schooner Adventure, Gloucester, MA (978) 281-8079 * Schooner-Adventure.org Public sails, private charters, and educational programs.

Schooner Alliance, Yorktown, VA (757) 639-1233 * SailYorktown.com Public sails, private charters, and educational programs.

Schooner Ardelle, Gloucester, MA (978) 281-0470 * SchoonerArdelle.com Public sails, private charters, and educational programs.

Schooner Fame, Salem, MA (978) 729-7600 * SchoonerFame.com Public sails, private charters, ed programs, and sail training.

Sloop Clearwater, Kingston, NY (410) 539-1151 * Clearwater.org Day sails, youth & adult programs, environmental activism.

Schooner Sultana, Chesterton, MD (410) 778-5954 * SultanaProjects.org Week-long “Chesapeake Adventures” programs for ages 11-14.

World Ocean School, Boston, MA (340) 626-7877 * WorldOceanSchool.org Education programs in Boston Harbor on board Roseway.

Sea I mester, Sarasota, FL (941) 924-2900 * Seamester.com Semester-at-sea and gap-year programs for college students.

SEA Semester, Woods Hole, MA (508) 540-3954* Sea.edu Accredited semester-at-sea programs for college students.

Sylvina Beal, Essex, MA (978) 491-7666 * BurnhamBoatbuilding.com 1911 sardine carrier currently being restored by National Heritage Fellow Harold Burnham to offer a variety of sailing programs. ❂

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CORWITH CRAMER Photo by Dan Stone

A popular feature on the Marlinspike facebook page is NAME THAT BOAT, where readers are asked to identify tall ships and sail-training vessels of the past & present.

A

How many of these vessels can you name?

8/9 — Admiral of the Ocean Sea 7/9 — Commodore 6/9 — Captain 5/9 — Master & Commander 4/9 — First Mate 3/9 — Seaman, Able 2/9 — Seaman, Ordinary 1/9 — Swabbie 0/9 — Tourist

MAGGIE WALTON

ANSWERS: A) Star of India, B) Tenacious, C) Woodwinds I and II, D) Western Union, E) Spike Africa, F) Friends Good Will, G) Alliance, H) American Pride, I) Europa.

B

C F

D

P MATTHEW

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WS

E

G

H

I

M. RUTSTEIN

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My favorite marlingspike, pictured on top of the spar plan for the 1885 full-rigged ship Wavertree.

This is a “sample” made for the Ministry of Defence in 1969 and was taken from a WWII pattern. It is by far the best marlingspike I have ever used, with a beautiful fine taper and very ergonomic handle. I can splice all day with this spike. Here is the tag that was attached to it. The wax Crown seal is a bit beaten up, but the tag is still intact. The closeup of the handle shows the date 1942 and the Ministry of Defence broad arrow denoting Crown property.

— Jamie White

I want to submit a picture of my 12-yearold daughter Carson Krihwan’s rig. Her grandfather (Morfar, Swedish for grandfather on mother’s side) Dennis Cartwright made it for her about five years ago.

Dennis has sailed with Adventuress for many years and has sailed aboard several other tall ships including the Denis Sullivan when I was captain.

My daughter’s other mom, Kelsey Cartwright, is also a tall ship sailor. She has sailed on several including Lynx, Roseway, Denis Sullivan, Unicorn and Lettie G. Howard. Kelsey’s grandfather (Mormorfar; great grandfather on mother’s side) also sailed on Adventuress and his father sailed on a merchant schooner out of Sweden. So there is a long line of sailors in Carson’s family tree on both sides!

— Tiffany Krihwan

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The Barque Elissa in Galveston, my first ship.

I started volunteering on her in 1983 when I was 13.

After several years, I went to Texas A&M Galveston and then on to sea. Working as captain now and felt it was time to get my first tattoo this year. It was obvious what I would get.Nate Beavers did the tattoo this past June. He works on the north side of Houston at Figurehead Tattoo.

— Don Vandelinder

Nolan Walker has sailed on the Pride of Baltimore II and Elissa but this tattoo, by Justin Olivier of New Orleans, is of Picton Castle. The way to tell the two barques apart, Nolan writes, “lies in the stays for the headsails.”

Send a hi-res photo of your tattoo — with the who, what, where, when, and why — to Marlinspike1812 @gmail.com!

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Visit the historic seaport of Salem, Mass for a cruise on our replica of the 1812 privateer schooner FAME! Sailing daily all summer from our downtown dock!

978.729.7600 * SchoonerFame.com