I
am frequently asked about the source of inspiration for my jewellery designs. My answer is quite simple, and always the same: I find it in the natural world. From my earliest memories I have been drawn to the unique textures and vibrant colours that can only be discovered
in Mother Nature’s wondrous realm. Wherever I go, whatever I see or touch, certain sensations and images - and the feelings they evoke - remain with me, indelibly. It is on these memories that I call when I am designing my jewellery. I am blessed to live in a country that has a rich abundance of natural beauty. My native Australia offers a breathtaking array of sights, sounds, and tactile experiences – from the sparkle of the morning sun dancing on the shallow waters of coral reefs teeming with life; the lush deep-green of tropical rainforests that echo with the haunting calls of brightly feathered birds; to the endless, sun-baked red earth of the outback. These wonders all provide me with boundless inspiration for my designs, as well as offering up the very gems that bring my visions to life: the rare and lustrous South Sea
pearls
that
are
harvested
from
the
pristine
seas
of
Australia’s
remote northern coast, the enigmatic and vibrant opals that are prised from the
desert
precious
earth
gemstones
by
gritty
which
lend
and my
determined pieces
such
miners,
and
the
many
energy
and
exuberance
of texture. It is therefore with much pleasure that I present a selection of my favourite necklaces and colliers to you in the following pages.
Margot McKinney OAM
Exuberance by design, grounded in nature It is the boldness of Margot’s approach to her work that immediately strikes the first-time observer. An unfettered freedom of expression, combining opals, pearls and precious gems into works of art that are as surprising and yet as natural as the Australian landscape that inspires her. Margot’s designs do not simply capture the colors and textures of the Australian continent from which her signature opals and pearls are sourced. Rather, each one of her utterly unique pieces – some of which have taken years to create - has a narrative around it to explain and illuminate its natural origins, as well as the people and their stories that helped to bring it to life.
Bloem Collier featuring eight significant tourmalines (total 240.56ct) including a gem of 65.85ct at the centre of the piece, along with an impressive collection of twenty-seven large Australian South Sea baroque pearls. The twenty-six pearls in the collier’s double strands measure 15-20mm, while a single, particularly rare example measuring 21 x 32mm is placed as the focal point beneath the hero tourmalines. Bloem is completed with white diamonds, brown diamonds, blue, pink and purple sapphires, pink tourmalines, amethysts and rubellites. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 28.3cm x 18cm 440053
Aurora Collier created with gemstones of significant size including pink tourmaline (104.94ct), kunzite (57.40ct) and morganite (38.58ct), along with an exceptional assemblage of twenty-four large Australian South Sea baroque pearls measuring 16.5-23.5mm. The piece is further enhanced with three pink tourmalines (62.73ct) and two kunzites (34.21ct), with diamonds, blue sapphires, pink sapphires, purple sapphires, tsavorites and pink tourmalines. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 33cm x 19cm 440052
Galaxy Collier featuring a rare kunzite of significant size (142.02ct) and intensity of colour at the centre of the piece. Complemented with an array of diamonds and multi-coloured sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 25cm x 16cm 110045
Marina Collier featuring an extraordinary suite of gemstones including two large green beryls (241.14ct and 109.48ct) and an aquamarine (65.72ct) at its heart, along with twenty-five large Australian South Sea baroque pearls. The twenty-four pearls in the collier’s double strands measure 17-22mm, while a single, particularly rare example measuring 26 x 30mm is placed as the focal point beneath the hero aquamarine. The piece is completed with two aquamarines (32.44ct), two green tourmalines (15.88ct and 24.09ct), green beryl (22.47ct) along with diamonds, sapphires, green tourmalines, Paraiba tourmalines, aquamarines and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 32.5cm x 18cm 440051
Pearls
Nature’s Rare Miracle Pearls are the only precious gems created by a living organism,
and
they
are
an
essential
part
of
Margot McKinney’s signature aesthetic. Australia is the birthplace of the finest pearls in the world – Australian South Sea pearls – and the only place where the mighty silver-lipped Pinctada maxima oyster grows. Ranging from the perfectly round to the unique baroque, these rare pearls - often complemented with colourful precious gemstones - feature in works of art by Margot that are as
captivating
landscape itself.
and
as
natural
as
the
Australian
A deep connection with pearls The remarkable thing about Margot is her closeness to the pearl farming process and her involvement in the harvesting of these rare gems. Her pearl journey started with a phone call from old friend Aji Ellies, the fifth-generation
proprietor
of
Australia’s
only
independently-owned
pearl farm located in north-east Arnhem Land at the northern tip of Australia.
He invited her to make the long trip to the farm’s remote location and to be part of the harvest, and this extraordinary experience had a profound effect on her. Ever since that time Margot visits Aji’s farm every year, an experience she regards as a great honour. She describes as a rare privilege the ability to present pearls that have come directly from the pristine waters of Arnhem Land to clients on the other side of the world:
‘No other jewellery designer watches as the pearl comes out of the oyster, designs and creates a jewel and then presents it to potential collectors.’
Kiss Collier featuring thirty-six 12.3 - 16mm Australian South Sea Keshi pearls set with 14.09ct diamonds and an 18.5mm Australian South Sea baroque pearl drop. Crafted in 18-karat brushed yellow gold. Length: 49.5cm (19.5 inches) 100090
Golden Rose Triple-row pearl necklace and flower pendant featuring an 18mm Australian South Sea pearl, one hundred and fifteen 10.5 - 15mm Australian South Sea pearls, diamonds and white sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat brushed yellow gold. Length: 58.5cm (23 inches). Pendant diameter: 50mm (2 inches) 100105
Bow Necklace featuring Australian South Sea baroque pearls, diamonds and pink sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. 24cm x 16cm 100105
Kiss Necklace featuring keshi pearls, an Australian South Sea baroque pearl drop, diamonds and pink sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat rose gold. 19cm x 16.5cm
100084
Thalia Collier with Pearl Drop Tassel, featuring thirty-nine 10.5-14mm Australian South Sea pearls set with diamonds and pink sapphire drops. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 54.5cm
140699
Entwine Double-row pearl necklace featuring ninety-one 10 - 14.5mm Australian South Sea pearls, diamonds, brown diamonds, yellow, pink and orange sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat yellow and rose gold. Length: 67.5cm (26.6 inches) 140693
Australian South Sea Pearl Necklace Featuring twenty-six 15-17mm pearls enhanced with elements set with sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 140691
Bow Bow pendant featuring diamonds and an openable diamond bail. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. Shown with necklace of Australian South Sea baroque pearls. Bow size: 11cm x 6cm
100099
Mini Bow Pendant Pendant featuring blue sapphires and diamonds suspended from a strand of twenty-five 10-15mm Australian keshi pearls. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. 100082
Kiss Necklace featuring keshi pearls, an Australian South Sea baroque pearl drop, diamonds and blue sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. 22cm x 19cm
100087
Tribal Chic Necklace featuring Australian South Sea pearls, diamonds, blue sapphires, yellow sapphires, pink sapphires and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 103cm
140681
Tribal Chic Necklace featuring Australian South Sea baroque pearls, diamonds, blue sapphires, yellow sapphires, pink sapphires and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. Length: 115cm
140688
Cookie Necklace featuring eight 14-18mm and a 16.9mm drop Australian South Sea pearls, set with diamonds, sapphires, tsavoritez, blue topazes and peridots. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 52.5 cm (45.5cm + 7cm) 100109
Cookie Necklace featuring eight 14-16.4mm and a 16.8mm drop Australian South Sea pearls, set with diamonds, yellow, pink and orange sapphires, citrines and pink tourmalines. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 52.5cm (45.5cm + 7cm) 100108
Midnight Tide Necklace featuring tanzanites (54.36ct), Australian South Sea keshi pearls, diamonds, tanzanites, amethysts and rose de France. Crafted in 18-karat rose gold. 23cm x 21cm
100088
Pearl Necklace featuring Australian South Sea pearls and diamonds. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. Length: 48.5cm
080078
Sunkissed Necklace featuring Tahitian, pink, golden, pistachio and Australian South Sea pearls, diamonds, white sapphires and pink sapphires. Crafted in 18-karat rose gold. Length: 54.5cm 100075
Golden Tassle Featuring 1.99ct diamonds. The tassels are detachable. Gold weight: 210.10gm. Crafted in 18-karat Yellow Gold. 170045
Pistachio Collier featuring green tourmalines (63.42ct), peridots, Paraiba tourmalines, pistachio pearls, diamonds, blue sapphires and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 19.5cm x 16.5cm
100072
Opals The Most Enigmatic of Gems Margot McKinney harnesses the rich colours in rare opal to evoke the vibrant landscapes of her home. Using the most enigmatic of gems – opal – as the centrepiece of her highly expressive and bold designs, she selects pearls and a myriad of precious gemstones to accentuate the colourful depths, shapes and patterns hidden within the molecular structure of the hero opal.
Each opal has its own story Margot’s pieces use Australian boulder opal and the rarest form of this gem – black opal – found mostly at Lightning Ridge in outback New South Wales. She prides herself on the relationships she has forged directly with the opal miners who prise these mesmerising gems from the sunbaked arid earth, and makes it a point to visit the mines as often as she can. Very few jewellery designers have such a level of personal involvement with their supply chains, and it means that her design philosophy is grounded in people and places as much as in colour and form. This inherent authenticity in her approach sets her work apart, and adds a vitally important dimension to the environmentallyinspired beauty of what she creates.
‘I can stand in Atlanta, Georgia and tell the story of that opal and the mine that it comes from and the man who mined it. It makes a piece of jewellery come alive when you can tell that story absolutely first-hand.’ Margot McKinney
Bedarra Collier featuring 93.80ct Australian boulder opals, 113.37ct baroque tumbled Paraiba tourmalines, one hundred and three 7 - 10mm Tahitian Keshi pearls enhanced with diamonds, blue sapphires and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 40.5cm (16 inches) 120024
Seaspray Collier featuring Australian boulder opals (119.31ct), diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, aquamarines, peridots, blue topazes, zircons, chrysoberyls, blue sapphires, tsavorites, and blue and green enamel. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 20cm x 17cm
120022
Mirage Collier featuring Australian boulder opals (147.66ct), 125.68ct baroque Paraiba tourmalines, fourteen Australian South Sea Keshi and baroque pearls, diamonds, blue sapphires, tsavorites and blue zircon. Length: 43.2cm (17 inches) 120025
Zephyr Triple-Row Keshi Pearl Necklace with Opal Butterfly Pendant and Pearl Drop, featuring sixty-five 12.5-16.5mm Australian South Sea keshi pearls, an Australian South Sea baroque pearl, Australian Queensland boulder opals (17.43ct), diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, aquamarines, peridots and white moonstones. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 47cm 100115
Cascade Collier featuring Australian boulder opals (38.35ct), pistachio pearls, diamonds, blue zircons, yellow beryls, Paraiba tourmalines, demantoids, green tourmalines, blue sapphires, tanzanites, tsavorites and peridots. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 20.5cm x 16cm
120018
Horizon Necklace featuring Australian black boulder opal (87.41ct), peridot (38.40ct), Australian South Sea baroque pearl, diamonds, blue sapphires, pink sapphires, tsavorites, peridots, tanzanites and blue enamel. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 36cm x 17cm
400391
Curating a world of colour in precious gemstones While Australian boulder opals and South Sea pearls often form the centrepieces of her works, Margot is equally adept at harnessing the colour and lustre in precious gems to be the stars in her art. What sets her apart are not only her artistic vision but also her unyielding
dedication
to
her
craft.
With
a patience that knows no bounds, Margot often spends a decade curating the perfect collection of companion gems for a single bespoke piece.
Margot Pavé Paul-Otto Caesar, a German gem-cutter at Gustav Caesar with whom Margot has worked for decades, developed a new term for Margot’s use of the coloured stones surrounding and enhancing a central stone. Pavé describes the way diamonds (usually small) are closely packed, in order to complement the beauty in the main stone. Paul-Otto coined “Margot Pavé” to refer to her unique use of stones of significant size and colour to surround a magnificent centre stone.
Featuring
Dutch National Ballet Soloist Laura Tosar
Lillian Collier created with a large Australian black opal (41.93ct) as the central focus, immediately framed by an array of significant coloured gemstones including a mandarin garnet (26.32ct), two rubellites (31.79ct), a tanzanite (23.29ct), two yellow beryls (20.49ct) and two citrines (37.23ct). Lillian is completed with green tourmaline, tanzanite, peridot, kunzite, and yellow beryl as well as diamonds, blue, yellow, orange and pink sapphires, tsavorites and amethysts. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. 28.5cm x 19.5cm
440030
Palette Collier featuring extra-large baroque gems of aquamarine, tanzanite, rubellite, amethyst and peridot, set with a suite of diamonds, rare blue zircons, kunzites, blue sapphires, pink sapphires, rose de France, demantoids, green tourmalines, amethysts and tsavorites. Crafted in 18-karat white and yellow gold. 21cm x 14cm
110047
Tahitian Kiss Featuring a suite of seven important Tahitian keshi pearls and a suite of important cabochons of aquamarine, green tourmaline, rubellite, amethyst, and golden beryl with diamond set kisses. Crafed in 18-karat white gold. 100058
Kaleidoscope Necklace featuring 151.64ct turquoise links set with tanzanites, rubellites and diamonds. The Pendant features a 63.52ct green beryl, 44.03ct rubellite, 16.10ct peridot, 26.21ct tanzanite, 25.30ct turquoise and diamonds. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 67cm 110042
Cosmic Collier featuring a central 81.27ct morganite and set with diamonds, pink sapphires, yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, purple sapphires, mandarin garnets, morganites, amethysts and pink tourmalines. Crafted in 18-karat rose gold. 20.5cm x 15.5cm (8.1 x 6.1 inches) 110038
Turquoise Necklace featuring a pendant with 49.45ct turquoise and a 23mm x 30mm Australian South Sea baroque pearl. Necklace featuring cabochon lapis (196.30ct), tanzanites, blue sapphires, tsavorites, turquoise beads and turquoise enamel. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold. Length: 58.5cm (23 inches) 170044
Crystal Lake Collier featuring rock crystals (335.85ct), diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, peridots, 18-karat yellow gold. 21.5cm x 19cm 060110
Atlantic Queen Pendant featuring a rare and important aquamarine (119.44ct) surrounded by diamonds (9.01ct) and an 18mm Australian South Sea pearl drop. Crafted in 18-karat white gold. 140693