Water Treasures of the Himalayas

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WATER TREASURES OF

THE

Himalayas

A billion lives depend on the waters of the Himalayas; sixty million live in this mountain range, while the rest live in its foothills, on the plains of the Indian subcontinent. For them, the Himalayas are a providential water tower. Despite their astonishing diversity, all these peoples share the common belief that this is a “Sacred Land”, and this mountain range is, above all, the “Abode of Snow” where pure water springs, rivers gush and lakes are crystal-clear.

Born from the eternal snows, in the most mystical land on earth, water perfectly embodies the essence of purity. In the Himalayas, water inspires a growing number of people even while it continues to frighten them. It can at times unite them and at other times divide them, provide for them and bring death.

In this mosaic of peoples, languages, religions and lands, it plays a vital part in the geographical distribution of the various ethnic groups, their social organization and the way they see themselves.

This volume offers a complete view of the great Himalayan mountain range by taking an itinerary which follows the water and contrasts the two flanks of this formidable climatic barrier. By doing so, it stresses both the importance of this water tower of Asia, which provides for a thousand million people, and the scope of the current economic and ecologic issues which are at stake. It also offers an anthropological insight into the various bonds formed between man and water in the Himalayas.

This book has been enhanced with 43 augmented reality videos, each linked to a photograph marked symbol. To play the videos, please follow with the the instructions given on the copyright page.

With 215 colour photographs.

WATER TREASURES OF

THE

Himalayas

WATER TREASURES OF

THE

Himalayas

Serge Verliat and Jean Philippe

Mapin Publishing

First published in English in India in 2017 by Mapin Publishing Pvt. Ltd 706, Kaivanna Panchvati, Ellisbridge Ahmedabad-380006 T: +91 79 40 228 228 | F: +91 79 40 228 201 E: mapin@mapinpub.com | www.mapinpub.com

The work is published with the support of the Publication Assistance Programmes of the Institut français.

Originally published in French in 2013 by ARPEC, Reunion Island, France All rights reserved under international copyright conventions. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

Text © Serge Verliat Photographs © Jean Philippe ISBN: 978-81-89995-89-8 (Mapin) ISBN: 978-1-935677-57-4 (Grantha) LCCN: 2015952927 English Translation by: David Jones and Sarah Patel Jones Edited by: Suguna Ramanathan / Mapin Editorial Proofreading: Ankona Das / Mapin Editorial Editorial Assistance: Neha Manke / Mapin Editorial Production Assistance: Gopal Limbad / Mapin Design Studio Designed by: Jean Philippe Printed at Tien Wah Press, Malaysia

This book has been enhanced with 43 augmented reality videos, each linked to a photograph. These are marked with the symbol in the bottom corner. front cover Prayers during the khora around Mansarovar Lake (see pp. 208–209) back cover

Reaping the barley, Korzok Oasis, Ladakh (see pp. 39)

To view the linked videos, please download the Aurasma app (available for iOS and Android). Once you have registered, search for the channel ‘Water4epub’, and click ‘Follow’.

2–3 Mount Kanchenjunga, 8586m high, view from Singhit (Sikkim)

Open the app, point your mobile camera at the photograph and the video will begin to play automatically.

Legend has it that its pure and untouched snow was used to create and shape the original human couple, from whom the Lepchas, the first inhabitants of this massif, are descended.

Tibetans from Sikkim, who arrived later, worship it under the name of Kuvera, the God of Abundance. For Indians, it is simply the purest of the pure.

Page numbers for pictograms with Augmented Reality videos: 14–15, 17, 18–19, 28, 32, 36–37, 38, 46, 50, 54–55, 59, 66, 73, 79, 82–83, 87, 89, 93, 94–95, 96, 99, 100–101, 120, 121, 127, 133, 138–139, 149, 157, 161, 165, 169, 172–173, 181, 182–183, 192, 194, 200, 202, 206–207, 208–209, 210, 214–215.

pages

CONTENTS

Foreword 06

12

Precious Water

60

Generous Water

152

Sacred Water

FOREWORD White peaks, spearing the sky and shrouded in snow,

western part of the range; the Ganges collects all the waters

look broodingly down over the millions living in the folds

from the southern slopes that tower over the vast Indian

and at the foothills. We are in the Himalayas, the highest

plains; and the great Brahmaputra is formed by the waters

mountains in the world, givers of water and life. Water, pure

from the northern slopes, above which the Tibetan plateaus

and crystal clear, is the gift of these mountains to those who

lie under the blue skies at a height of 4000 feet.

live there.

The Sanskrit word Himalaya means Abode of Snow. When

would, we are told, fill an enormous tank one kilometre

the sun shines the snow melts, the landscape is magically

wide, six kilometres long and one kilometre high. If one

transformed by springs, gushing rivers and glittering lakes.

is thinking of tanker trucks, this is roughly equivalent

The people in the mountains and at the foothills may be

to a convoy from the Earth to the Moon and back. The

astonishingly diverse, but all are bound by a common belief

Himalayas are truly the impressive ‘Water Tower of Asia’.

that this is Sacred Land. The ice, turning into stalagmites that look like eternal flames, seems to bear witness to the divine forces that dwell here. Each mountain is a god; the entire universe is a temple.

This uninterrupted series of valleys and crests makes one wonder where exactly the beginning and the end of the Himalayas might be. It seems arbitrary to mark boundaries to a mountain range. The issue can be debated but it

So striking is the beauty of the place, so pure the air and

seems reasonable to say that it stretches, both geologically

radiant the light, it is no wonder that the clear water seems

and ecologically, from the Karakoram and Hindu Kush

to embody the very essence of purity. It comes as free gift,

mountains in the west, to the Indo-Burmese ranges of

bearing life and joy, a sign of the benevolence of the gods.

South-East Asia in the east.

One coming from the West sees it quite differently. The first

For the sake of convenience, geographers use the major

glimpse is from the air, and as the aircraft sweeps the sky

gaps in the landscape that comprise the valleys of the

and we look down, the great range appears as an effective

greatest rivers: the Indus to the west and the Brahmaputra

barrier between two worlds. South of the range lies the

to the east. Thus defined, the Himalayas extend over

green and wooded Indian flank receiving the full force of

2700 km.

the monsoon rains. To the north, behind the highest peaks, the eye picks out the ochre deserts of the Tibetan plateau where little rain falls.

6

The daily volume of fresh water flowing from the Himalayas

The height of the mountains, their vertical extension, is stupendous. To appreciate its prodigious scale, there is nothing better than walking. One has to climb steep paths,

From the air the Himalayas look like, and indeed are, an

go down into deep ravines, climb interminable stone steps,

impressive water tower, from which those springs and

go round dangerous piles of fallen rocks, all to gaze upon

rivers flow. We may be in a sub-tropical region of the

the still-distant, ever-inaccessible peaks glowing in the light

world, but more than 15,000 glaciers in these mountains

of the setting sun long after the valley has begun to shiver

feed into as many rivulets, which in turn merge into three

in the dark. By day there are other rewards on offer, as

mighty rivers, the largest in Asia. The Indus waters the driest

when, through a gap in the clouds, a snow-covered peak

appears against a patch of blue sky. It is then that the

everyone is aware of the impact of the rains on their lives.

height of the mountain seems prodigious. Cut off from its

Drought is synonymous with famine for these peasants

base, as if uprooted, the summit seems to float in the sky,

who are practically self-sufficient. But these much-awaited,

high above the human world. For visitors from the West, the

life-giving rains are also much feared. In these Dantesque

Himalayas open up a world of wonder. As the extraordinary

mountains, each storm casts a shadow of death

spectacle evokes romantic dreams, all marvels seem

and desolation.

possible! Apart from the poetry and pristine beauty of the landscape, one cannot but be struck by the power of this mountain range.

From the glaciers to the foothills, the Himalayan rivers take an impressive geographical short-cut. In the space of a mere hundred kilometres, they go from a polar region to an overheated tropical plain, tumbling from an altitude of over 5000 to 300 metres. No wonder the gorges are so deep and the rivers foam white!

For almost everybody here, water has always been above all the essential factor for farming. Today, however, new factors must be taken into account: demographic growth, urbanization and globalization are creating new needs.

The water resources of the Himalayas are like virtual hydroelectric ‘manna’ from heaven. Nepal, with a potential production of 80,000 megawatts, could become the second highest producer in the world, behind Brazil but ahead of the United States! A tantalizing prospect in a country where

Crossing them is not to be taken lightly. The bottoms of the

power cuts occur as often as three times a week in parts of

gorges are such hostile places that men and women prefer

its capital city!

the heights. On the southern flank, in the hilly region which spreads from 1000m to 4000m altitude, the rivers have long kept people apart. Conversely, on the other side of the Himalayas, about 30 kilometres away as the crow flies, people gather round the rare streams that can be used for irrigation.

In the Himalayas, while water divides people geographically, it is people who are divided over the question of water.

For some, it is natural to share the water, but for others it is much more complicated. How can one share this pure and precious water with someone considered less pure?

The gift of the gods has become a cause for discrimination!

In the Himalayas, water inspires a growing number of people even while it continues to frighten them. It unites them at certain times and divides them at others, provides and deprives, gives life and brings death. In this mosaic of peoples, languages, religions and lands, it plays a vital part in the geographical distribution of various ethnic groups, their social organization, and the way they see themselves.

The aim of this book is to share with you the astonishing variety of bonds formed between human beings and water in the Himalayas. So let us follow the course of the Himalayan rivers, starting from the northern region.

However, all are subject to the same vagaries of the water cycle. Here, in these pastoral farming communities,

7

The dry flank of the Himalayan range, around Lake Pangong, Ladakh Double page précédente : Le mont Kanchenjunga, 8586 m - Vue depuis Singhit (Sikkim) Ses neiges pures et vierges auraient servi à modeler le couple humain originel dont les premiers habitants de ce massif, les Lepchas, sont les descendants. Arrivés plus tard, les Tibétains du Sikkim le vénèrent sous le nom de Kuvera, dieu de l’Abondance. Pour les Indiens, il est le plus pur des purs.

8

Page de droite : Versant des pluies - Le Gange à Uttarkashi (Inde) facing page The rainy flank of the mountain range, River Ganges in Uttarkashi, India Ci-dessus : Versant aride - Abords du Pangong Lake - Ladakh

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Karachi

INDIA Based upon Survey of India maps with the permission of the Surveyor General of India. Š2017, Government of India.

Responsibility for the correctness of internal details shown on the main map rests with the publisher.

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River Indus, near the confluence with River Zanskar, Ladakh

Precious Water

Dunes in the region of Paryang, 4502m high, Tibet Dune de la région de Thöling (Tibet occidental) facing page Dunes in the region of Thöling, western Tibet Double page précédente : Mawangtang, ou «Forêt de terre», 4400 m Le réseau hydrographique de la Sutlej et de ses affluents a profondément érodé les sédiments lacustres et marins déposés dans cet arrière-pays himalayen. above

previous pages

Mawantang, or ‘Earth Forest’, at the altitude of 4400m, western Tibet

The hydrographic network formed by the Sutlej and its tributaries has deeply eroded the lake and sea sediments deposited in this Himalayan hinterland.

12

16

Dune de la région de Paryang, 4502 m - Tibet

The dry bed of Thöling Lake, 3747m high, Tibet Double page précédente : Massif du Shishapangma, 8012 m - Tibet previous pages

Shishapangma massif, 8012m high, Tibet

Vallée du Yarlung Tsang-Po (Brahmapoutre) - Tibet

Yarlung Tsang-Po (called the Brahmaputra in India) river valley, Tibet

facing page

Lac asséché de Thöling, 3747 m - Tibet

21

above and facing page previous pages

The Indus, near Chumotang, Ladakh

Ci-dessus : Lac d’altitude de la région du Pangong - Ladakh Page de droite : Pangong Lake - Ladakh

24

following pages

Mountain lake in the region of Pangong, Ladakh

Pond near Mansarovar lake, 4500m high, Tibet

Double page précédente : l’Indus, près de Chumotang - Ladakh Double page suivante : Étang près du lac Manasarovar, 4500 m - Tibet

Un désert riche en eau A Desert Rich in Water Dans ce désert d’altitude, l’eau

est pourtant abondante. Elle s’étale même enhigh d’innombrables Surprisingly, in this altitude desert area, lacs.

Les plus étendus peuvent there is abundant water, spread across

atteindre plusieurs dizaines de kilomètres de long. C’est le Thisrésultat unexpected of water at d’uneappearance géologie complexe such immense may be attributed to marquée parheights la juxtaposition de chaînons et de dépressions dans secondary ranges and depressions juxtaposed a du à trouver in alaquelle way thatl’eau stops themal water from flowing sa voie pour s’échapper. innumerable lakes, some of great length.

away. In these topographical basins, hollowed outDans and enlarged by erosion, water streaming les cuvettes down from the melting snows et collects in the topographiques creusées

agrandies par l’érosion, ces lacsof water at lakes which are also fed by springs ruissellement therecueillent foot of the l’eau greatde range.

née de la fonte des neiges.

Ils sont aussi très souvent Some of the lakes, such as Tso-Khar on the alimentés par des sources, highabondantes plateaus orau Rupchu in la Ladakh, pied de Grandeare fed by streams that cross pockets of salt deposited Chaîne. long ago in the depths of the ancient Tethys

Quelques-uns de ces lacs sont salés. C’est le cas du Tso-Khar sur bottom of a geographical basin, evaporates les hauts plateaux du Rupchu au andLadakh. deposits salt on the shores of the lake.

Sea. The salty lake water, trapped at the

This is a godsend for the herdsmen’s livestock,

Ils sont partreat. les eaux de which thrivealimentés on this salty ruissellement qui traversent les poches du sel abandonné jadis dans les profondeurs de la mer de Thétys. Ces eaux, piègées au fond d’un relief en cuvette sans sortie possible, déposent, en s’évaporant, ce sel au bord des rives. C’est une aubaine pour les éleveurs qui y conduisent leurs troupeaux, friands de cette gâterie salée.

Tso-Khar, 4540m, Ladakh, India

facing page

Pond near Mansarovar Lake, 4582m, Tibet

following pages

Confluence of the Shyok and Nubra rivers, Ladakh Étang près du lac Manasarovar, 4582 m - Tibet

Tso-Khar, 4540 m - Ladakh (Inde)

28

L'eau, Trésor... 216 pages 28x28.indd 24

Double page suivante : Confluence de la Shyok et de la Nubra - Ladakh

14/07/13 19:18:21

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Serge Verliat is a professor of geography in Reunion Island, France, and author of several research papers on the Himalayas since 1980. He has a PhD in geography and a post-graduate diploma in anthropology. Verliat is fluent in Nepali. He has made several documentaries and films, including Living in the Himalayas (2004) and The Himalayas: Confidences of Water (2011). santosdahi@wanadoo.fr

Jean Philippe, a photographer, has exhibited his black and white silver prints at the Museum of Man in Paris as part of the exhibition ‘Reunion Island: Two Viewpoints’ in 1995. He is also the author of two specialized works on the Cilaos Cirque in Reunion Island.

His photographs also appear in the book The Furnace: The Volcano of Reunion Island. photographiejean.philippe@orange.fr

Dr. David Jones teaches Mathematics and English at the Department of Réseaux et Télécommunications in Reunion Island, France. He has published various papers in his fields of study in Mathematics as well as translated from French to English numerous academic articles and the book Vivre à Mafate by Jean Philippe.

Water Treasures of the Himalayas Serge Verliat and Jean Philippe

216 pages, 215 colour photographs 11 x 11” (280 x 280 mm), hc ISBN: 978-81-89995-89-8 (Mapin) ISBN: 978-1-935677-57-4 (Grantha) ₹2950 | $65 | £50 2017 • World rights

Other Titles of Interest: CELEBRATING RAHIM Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan Edited by Shakeel Hossain, Co-editor & Research Manager Deeti Ray Brigitte Singh

The Printress of the Mughal Garden Bishwadeep Moitra

Paper Jewels Postcards from the Raj Omar Khan

Mapin Publishing www.mapinpub.com

Printed in Malaysia

PHOTOGRAPHY

Sarah Patel Jones currently teaches English at Collège Trois Mares in Reunion Island, France, and has taught French at the University of the West of England, Bristol. Her other interests lie in cinema and film studies, glass painting and travelling.