Ravissant

Ravissant

A world of ultimate elegance

Ravissant

A world of ultimate elegance

Ravissant

A world of ultimate elegance Beginning with the goal to showcase the best of India for the world, over the course of five decades of outstanding entrepreneurship, Mina and Ravi have also brought the best of the world’s design aesthetics and practices to India. Ravissant, which means ‘delightful’, ‘ravishing’, ‘enchanting’ in French, takes us on a journey to the heart of luxury.

Mina and Ravi Chawla

Ravissant

A world of ultimate elegance

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Ravissant A world of ultimate elegance “Let us be surrounded by luxury. We can do without necessities.”

Ravi and Mina Chawla

Ravissant Distributed by Mapin Publishing

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CONTENTS Foreword

7

A personal note 8 Preamble 10 First steps into business 36 Total commitment to luxury 60 Luxury 2.0: Handwrought silver 92 Deep and lasting relationships 178 The next generation 204 Spirituality, charity, community 214 The adventure continues 218

Photo credits 232 Acknowledgements 234

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A personal note

What is luxury? How do you define it? This question has been with us for most of our lives. The dictionary definition, extravagance, doesn’t do justice to the concept as we’ve experienced it. We don’t see it as an overabundance or wastefulness. In fact, luxury doesn’t even necessarily require ownership of anything.

Luxury is a heightened level of sensitivity. When we see, hear, smell, taste, touch or even something that gives us joy and pleasure, we feel connected and at peace with the world. It is deeply personal and cultural, but it’s shared across all of humankind.

And although luxury is often a one-time experience, such as enjoying a fine dinner or an extraordinary performance, ownership of luxury items is a source of continued satisfaction, even bliss. Luxury is not about ostentation; it’s about expression of personal values. Whether we choose to surround ourselves with antiques, artworks, exclusive tableware, jewellery, garments, or all of the above, seeing and touching these objects fills us with pleasure and gratitude.

Luxury is not the exclusive realm of the wealthy. Who hasn’t at some point foregone certain everyday comforts in order to afford a luxury purchase or experience? It’s an affirmation of the pure joy of life itself. We have been blessed with opportunities to give and receive luxury, and have dedicated our lives to offering our customers unforgettable experiences of luxury.

It begins with the exceptional personal service our passionate and committed staff members provide, and it continues with the superlative quality and exclusivity of our products.

Let us be surrounded by luxury. We can do without necessities.

—Mina and Ravi Chawla, New Delhi, February 2023

“The closest relationship that God has bestowed upon us for this life are our own parents. We owe our gratitude to our parents every second of our lives.

We must not forget the sacrifices they have made in nurturing our tender childhood, taking care of our physical needs as we grew, and the emotional support that they gave us, when we needed them most, taught us good things in life to practise and make our lives happy.”

Ravi and Mina Chawla

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An ornate silver-clad sitar stand, made by Ravissant’s craftsmen, expresses the deep connection to Indian culture that shaped Mina and Ravi’s business from the outset.

Travelling with royalty

out breaching protocol! I might add that my wife In the Himalayan kingdom, Ravi entertained Prin-

and I later won a dance competition at Delhi’s

cess Sofía, while Prince Juan Carlos was away

Imperial Hotel, where we spent many a romantic

Ravi would later orchestrate a similar trip with

hunting game. He even danced with the newly-

evening.”

Prince Juan Carlos of Spain and his bride, Prin-

wed bride. Ravi recalls, “I had learnt ballroom

cess Sofía of Greece and Denmark. Still not

dancing, as I was very ambitious and thought

Such was the relationship that developed be-

burdened by the crown, the royal couple had

one day I would be invited by the Queen of Eng-

tween Ravi and the royal couple that Frederica,

slipped into India on a highly confidential hon-

land and be expected to dance with Her Majesty.

the Queen Mother of Greece, attended Mina and

eymoon. They stayed at the Ashok Hotel’s super

Of course that was a naive thought, but when

Ravi’s wedding. Prince Juan Carlos was repre-

deluxe presidential suite. Ravi accompanied the

Prince Juan Carlos was out hunting, and I was

sented by the special emissary of the Kingdom

couple discreetly, managing everything, includ-

keeping his bride company, I did get the chance

of Spain and his wife.

ing a flight to Kathmandu.

to execute a few waltzes with the Princess–with-

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Rich ornamental patterns reflecting India’s traditions have long been a trademark of Ravissant saris, seen here with Qutab Minar as the backdrop.

Friends in high places

Proximity and friendship with highly distinguished figures run through the lives of Ravi and Mina —individually and collectively—like a common thread. These prominent personalities included Mr Vidya Charan Shukla, the youngest Member of Parliament ever. His father was the Chief Minister of Madhya Pradesh, a position Shyama Charan Shukla, V. C. Shukla’s older brother, assumed after the death of their father. V. C. Shukla went on to hold several extremely important positions, becoming a trusted aide of Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Ravi became acquainted with Shukla, who was 12 years his senior, early on, while working for Everett Travels. When clients requested safaris to photograph wildlife in India’s forests, he would use the services of Allwyn Cooper Pvt Ltd, which was then owned by Shukla, to organise the expeditions. Ravi would often come along, and the friendship grew. In one anecdote that shows Shukla’s unique personality and sense of mischief, he had adopted an abandoned tiger cub and surprised his high-ranking dinner guests, including top politicians such as the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, with his new pet. “It was so hilarious to see the ministers and other politicians jumping on the sofas and holding their dhotis,” Ravi remembers. “They were so relieved when the cub was taken out of the room.” Shukla put up a sign outside of the house reading “survivors will be prosecuted”.

When Gandhi’s Congress Party lost the post-Emergency 1977 elections, Shukla lost his position as MP as well as the family’s government-allotted residence. However, Ravi found a spacious house in posh Sundar Nagar, secured the lease in his own name and gave it to his Bronze sculptures from the Chola period: the dream of creating worldclass luxury goods was born out of a love of India’s traditional art.

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The Americans asked if he could get them an enamelled peacock in gold. They had fallen in love with one they had seen at the Calcutta Oberoi Grand’s arcade, but could not acquire it because the shop had been closed. Mina commissioned the desired design to be executed by the master goldsmiths of Jaipur, forwarding the piece to Ravi on completion. The Texans also purchased a number of rare carpets and shawls from Ravi’s inventory. Like the Cammacks and Haines, the Baulken sisters also visited Mina and Ravi and remained lifelong friends.

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A masterfully chased silver dish in the form of a peacock from the collection “African Odyssey”.

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Focus on fashion

As business at the Indian Handicrafts shops in Delhi continued to grow, the Chawlas recognised that garments, which were readily portable, were outselling the bulky handicrafts. Mina began fashioning dresses from Banaras stoles and other silks. She installed a tailor in the tiny back room of one of their YMCA stores. Should a client have special wishes, the item would be custom tailored down to the finest details.

The Chawlas had continued to hold an Indian Handicrafts Exhibition once or twice annually.

In 1972, American Paul Staeck visited an exhibition. Based in Delhi, he represented Santa Cruz—a large clothing company headquartered in California—and was tasked with finding reliable suppliers. Despite her lack of experience in largerscale manufacturing for export, Mina welcomed the opportunity and secured a trial order for 200 casual blouses to be made in handloom cotton crepe with crochet buttons.

The Chawlas converted part of the ground floor of their Greater Kailash home into an exportmanufacturing workshop. They installed four machines, a master tailor and a woman skilled in crocheting. Mina supervised the stitching and button making, had the finished blouses washed and hung them to dry before passing them on for ironing. She would check meticulously for creases before approving the goods for shipping.

Understandably, Ravi and Mina worried that the deal might fall through, as had similarly promising business propositions in the past. But this time it was for real: after Paul Staeck inspected the consignment, it was shipped to California, where the company’s executive David Hirsch gave his enthusiastic approval. He reordered,

Reduced forms and responsible production: Ravissant fashion increasingly includes organically grown cotton.

this time for double the amount.

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“Europe was our home away from home.”

Mina Chawla

Enjoy the good life Mina emphasises that leisure and fun were always factored in, especially when they travelled abroad on business.

Whenever possible, Mina and Ravi brought the children along with them.

The Chawlas socialised with long-term business associates such as Gerard Djaoui and his wife Corinne, who had become friends. They had first met when Gerard headed Cartier in Hong Kong and and had selected Ravissant as the brand’s franchise in India. After the couple moved back to Paris, where Gerard became the company’s President, the Chawlas would spend an evening or more with them each time they visited the city—their home away from home.

As Mina recalls, “All of Italy was in our pocket. We had holidays in Como and Venice, with lovely Italian friends to show us the best places to visit and dine at. Of course, they would welcome us into their homes with the warmth of the Mediterranean sun.” On weekends, even if Ravi was caught up with meetings, Mina bundled the children on to a train or in a hired car and whizzed off to St. Tropez, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland. “It was such valuable exposure for the children, making them so at home in the world.” Mina and Ravi even appeared in Swissair advertisements.

The Chawlas were such familiar guests of Swiss Air that they became public personalities in ad campaigns.

“My motto was: We teach the silversmiths to care for their tools as if those were their children.”

Jan van Nouhuys

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Wanted: A master engraver was dismissive. He agreed to extend his stay to

silversmiths, fell in place with this newly found

train the silversmiths, but this proved impossi-

vision.”

ble—the traditional methods were too deeply ingrained. Ravi faced up to the fact that he needed to train a fresh batch of silversmiths from the

Emphasis on an artistic approach

ground up, and that he needed experienced, qualified master craftspeople to do the training.

European training

“Silver Art”, Mark Couwenbergh’s bilingual tome on Jan van Nouhuys, has an entire chapter on his work with Ravi Chawla and Ravissant. “Together they thought out and set up what they consid-

The realisation of Ravi’s vision to build a Euro-

ered to be the ideal workshop with workbench-

pean-class silver workshop entered its decisive

es, machines, lighting, exhaust fans and air con-

phase after the Swiss banker Peter Huggler lo-

ditioning and tools. They subsequently sat down

cated Professor Jan van Nouhuys from Vocation-

to make designs for table silver. Their choice

al School Schoonhoven in the Netherlands. Jan

was for geometric figures, clean lines and right

had apprenticed in London, beginning in 1974,

angles. Not only did they give the silverware a

and had established a reputation for ground-

modern look and feel, it could be produced in

breaking design and craftsmanship.

larger quantities from 1 mm-thin silver sheets.

Because the actual production would be carried

“India excited me because, when I was 17, I

out by others (whom they’d train), they were

met the grandson of Mahatma Gandhi, Rajmo-

careful to draw the designs in extreme detail.”

han Gandhi, and became friends, getting familiar with his vision for change,” Jan recalls. “By

A free hand

the 1990s, in Europe silver was associated only with tableware, and had come to be dismissed

Jan sensed a common understanding with Ravi

as irrelevant, inefficient, overtaken by stainless

from the outset, and the two felt at ease with

steel and synthetic materials. But I had already

each other. “Ravi Chawla was a visionary on

become convinced that silver could find its new

the subject of silver and its potential for win-

relevance if we focus on art objects. That is why

ning the market; this reflected my own thinking

I had initiated projects under the name “Zilver

about the need for an artistic attitude,” says Jan.

in Beweging” (Silver in Motion). Projects that

“I will never forget our intensive and stimulat-

resulted in a rebirth of silver, and particularly

ing exchange of thoughts. And I will always be

“silver art”, as I started to call it. The invitation

grateful for his carte blanche for any design, for

by Dr Huggler, to set up a completely new sil-

any number of objects – and for any mistakes as

ver workshop in India and train locally recruited

part of the operation.”

Ravissant’s first commission in silver, to create a series of cigar boxes that replicated the extraordinary engraving of an antique silver box from Russia, demanded a level of skill and precision not easily found.

When Ravi discovered a master engraver in Kolkata, he was glad to double the salary the man had been earning. The investment paid off, with many engravers learning and improving the craft under the master’s watchful eye. Engraving became one of the signature skills that render Ravissant silver virtually impossible to replicate.

“For Jan, silversmithing was not just a craft but a culture-related form of expression. He taught me to believe that only work created out of a feeling should be called Ravissant silver.”

Ravi Chawla

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Mastery in enamelling Michael, who continued to design silver for Ravissant on a regular basis up until 2010, increasingly combined elements of traditional Indian and Western craftsmanship into his work.

“My work in this field became more colourful and decorative in a way, introducing new techniques to Ravissant like semiprecious stone carving and vitreous enamel,” he says. “Finally, I worked a lot with the traditional, and in the West almost forgotten, art of repoussé, making the designs more figurative in a way.”

Ravissant discovered a local Bengali craftsman who then trained with Phil Barnes, of England, and has achieved a truly exceptional level of mastery in the ancient craft of enamelling. Going to great pains to ensure the purity of his glass granules and pigments, he creates enamels of strikingly vibrant hues.

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The creations of Shefali Mahadik, who joined in

rather than ornamentation that emerged in Eu-

1997, were also “reduced” as Petra put it. Like

rope in response to Art Deco and Art Nouveau.

most of the homegrown designers Ravi subsequently brought on board, she had studied at

The NID was one of the first design schools

Ahmedabad’s iconic National Institute of Design

to be established in post-colonial India. The

(NID). There, as in German institutions, the de-

unique institute, where Ravi served as a Board

sign standards of the Bauhaus set the tone. The

Member from 2004 to 2009, was launched as

Bauhaus design school, established in Germany

part of a countrywide programme to foster na-

in 1919, united thoughts from the British Arts

tion-building and autonomy in newly independ-

and Crafts movement with the emphasis on form

ent India.

ABOVE On the right is visionary

educationalist and transformative figure in the history of the NID Dr. Darlie O. Koshy.

LEFT Clean geometric lines com-

bined with ornamental elements became hallmarks of Ravissant silver.

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Revitalising age-old techniques

Mokume-gane

Fortunately Ravissant found Alistair McCallum, a mo-

Invented

kume-gane specialist. Alistair had earned a BA in silversmith-

Denbei Shoami (1651–1728), mo-

ing and jewellery at the UK’s Loughborough College of Art as

kume-gane was originally used for

well as a Master’s in the same disciplines at London’s Royal

the elaborate sheaths and handles

College of Art. He describes his fascination for the technique:

of samurai swords. Mokume-gane

“I have always been attracted to colour and contrast. This led

translates as “wood grain metal” or

me to begin exploring different metals and their contrasting

“wood-eye metal”, because it creates

colours while I was an art student in 1997. At this stage I

an effect that looks like natural wood

had no inkling of mokume-gane. When I did become aware of

grain. In this highly specialised tech-

it, there was very little practical information available, and I

nique, layers of contrasting coloured

began to develop the technique through trial and error. With

metals are fusion-welded, using very

no notion of what it was supposed to look like, I was free to

high heat and pressure, to create one

develop my own ideas about the patterns. This individuality is

solid block or billet. This “sandwich”

what appeals to me. It also distinguishes my work from other

is then further manipulated by forg-

practitioners. The way I construct the laminate/sandwich

ing, twisting and carving to expose

is different, I join the metals using hard silver solder and

multiple layers and thus form more

use thick silver backing plates. Due to the highly deco-

and increasingly complex patterns.

rative surface patterns produced using this technique, I

Mokume-gane describes both the pro-

by

master

metalworker

cedure and product. It traditionally utilised copper, silver and gold alloys.

The art fell into oblivion in the late 19th century with the Meiji Restoration, which spelt the end of the Shogunate. In 1877, it was revived by Tiffany & Co., culminating in its spectacular “Conglomerate Vase”. With asymmetrical panels of mokume-gane, it is considered the most important work of 19th-century American silver. It was auctioned at Sotheby‘s in 1998, where it fetched US$585,500.

“My fascination with the way Venetian glass reflects and intensifies light helped me develop a special skill for threedimensional pieces.”

Patrizia Guiotto

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every two months during his travels between

“I consider Kazu as my third daughter; we are

Japan and Switzerland—he would stay at the

continually in touch, also with her mother.”

Chawlas’ Maharani Bagh home and spend most of his time at their workshop, interacting with

Corporate leadership

the production managers and even speaking with the craftsmen in Hindi.

Ravi met Mr Krishna Kumar, Managing Director of the Tata Group company Indian Hotels Ltd,

Among the connections Peter helped forge was

owners of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, in 1999.

a relationship with Christofle. He introduced

The purpose of the meeting was to present

Ravi to the top management in Paris, and CEO

Ravissant silver, which Mr Kumar appreciated,

Maurizio Borletti visited the Ravissant showroom

instantly recognising its extraordinary quality

within months. His entry remains in the Ravis-

and the significance of the fact that it was pro-

sant guest book: “Handmade silver better than

duced in India. The relationship flourished, be-

Ravissant is not possible to make in this world.”

ginning with the opening of a Ravissant shop in

An exclusive Swiss-Japanese brand

the hotel and followed by a fashion show. Many business activities came after, including the commissioning of corporate gifts.

Kazu, a designer in her own right who has creat-

Krishna Kumar and his wife Ratna became close

ed an exclusive brand, works with the Ravissant

friends of the Chawlas. The Chawlas and Ku-

facility in Noida to craft her pieces. She sells the

mars exchanged heartfelt best wishes for the

fine garments and silver objects through outlets

New Year on 31 December 2022. New Year’s

and galleries in Japan and Switzerland. No man-

Day brought sad news of Krishna Kumar’s death.

ufacturer in Europe gives her the same finish or

He had bathed in preparation for his evening

personal attention, she attests.

prayers and collapsed while drying himself with a towel. He died of sudden heart failure, without

Having started designing her own distinctive

prolonged pain or anxiety.

clothes at age 11, Kazu attended Central Saint

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Martins College of Art & Design in London as

It is a Hindu custom to bathe the body before

well the Zürcher Hochschule der Künste (Zurich

cremation. Self-reliant to the end, Krishna Ku-

University of the Arts). She had visited India as

mar even completed the last task himself. Ratna

a child, but came professionally for the first time

told Ravi that she had taken Krishna’s ashes to

in 2005. Kazu shares her father’s fascination

their home town in Kerala and immersed them

with India and deep bonds to the Chawla family.

where his guru’s ashes had been committed to

“Of course, I too immediately became as much

the waters. Charu and Ravi visited her in Mum-

a part of Uncle Ravi’s family as my father, and

bai to share their condolences and memories of

continue to be,” she says. Ravi concurs, saying,

a dear friend.

A masterfully chased vase depicting the typical lush jungle foliage of Africa’s rain forests. Design: Ralf Auerbach.

Art, culture and the finer things in life were integral components of the highly sophisticated societies that existed in ancient and medieval India. Throughout history, South Asia has introduced many different luxury materials and technologies to the world, including fine textiles, jewellery and other objects crafted in precious metals, often with rare gemstones, as well as works in stone and wood. These centuries-old works of art and handicrafts are beautiful and fascinating to behold. On closer examination, the treasures of the past also reveal a breath-taking level of skill and refinement. India has been the birthplace of distinctive traditional designs, but has also absorbed influences from Persia, Europe and East Asia.

In the decades following Independence, the Indian economy has followed a strong growth trajectory, gathering pace considerably in the 1990s with the country opening up to the globalised world. Today, India’s technology and, specifically, software development expertise are essential industries the world over.

While the world’s best-known luxury brands were developed over generations in the wealthy industrialised nations of the Global North, modern India’s domestic luxury market has been rebuilt and progressed under different circumstances and at a different pace. This is the

LIFESTYLE / DESIGN

Ravissant

A world of ultimate elegance

backdrop for the success story of Ravissant. Two young entrepreneurs, Mina and Ravi Chawla, developed a deep and keen understanding of India’s rich heritage and European standards of luxury, and created Ravissant—a brand that uncompromisingly fulfils the wishes of the most discerning international connoisseurs.

Ravi Chawla 236 pages, 219 colour & 75 b/w photograhs 9.45 x 11” (240 x 279 mm), hc ISBN: 978-93-94501-17-1 ₹9000 | $195 | £150 2023 • World Rights

294 photos, 219 in colour and 75 b/w FRONT Silver champagne bucket, Ralf Auerbach PHOTO Tania Walck BACK Organic cotton dress, Mina Chawla PHOTO Prabuddha Dasgupta JACKET NOTES Mina and Ravi Chawla PHOTO Tania Walck