Bespoke jewelry by Rebus promotes the freedom that accompanies owning a custom-made, hand-engraved signet ring, a tradition typically associated with family heritage crests from landed gentry. The company was born from R.H. Wilkins, world-renowned Londonbased goldsmith and founder, Emmett Smith, who believes that what makes Rebus so special is its personal relationship with each and every customer. The brand’s focus is on customer experience. While Rebus has a store in London, it’s less of a storefront for merchandise and more of a reverse design studio; reverse in the way that the customers sketch their own designs, or partner alongside a Rebus designer, wherein designs are presented to Rebus artisans for a bespoke, made-to-order piece that is tailored from start to fi nish. “I don’t see myself as a designer,” said Smith. “I’m a hand-engraver. The customer is more of a designer than I am.” Smith’s experience stems from R.H. Wilkins, where he worked as an apprentice for almost six years before his naturally curious mind had
him packing his bags to travel around the world. When he returned to London in 2000, he bought and owned R.H. Wilkins, and from there, Rebus was born. The brand stemmed from Smith’s disillusionment with the mindset that dominated London business-to-business hand engravers. “We were everyone’s best kept secret,” Smith said. “I felt that the staff in the stores around London weren’t selling hand engraving as a value service. They almost treated it as an inconvenience.” Around that time, R.H. Wilkins mainly worked with other businesses, providing engraving for church wear, sporting trophies, etc. “Some of the products we got to engrave were horrible and I thought, ‘I’d love to have a business directed to the consumer who will celebrate what we do here,’ so I made a decision to branch off.” From there, Rebus outgrew R.H. Wilkins and returned handengraving to consumers rather than businesses. With Rebus’ bespoke design service, the consumer also has more autonomy on the fi nal outcome of the product.
REBUS BESPOKE RINGS: Making Custom Signets Democratic
BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE All images are courtesy of Rebus.
44 | FM JANUARY 2023
9K White Gold Oxford 55 Signet Ring - 18x14 9K White Gold Oxford 55 Signet Ring – 14x12 Both feature a custom surface cut monogram
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