Dermascope November 2017

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

November 2017

Body Treatments & Special Events The Official Publication of Aesthetics International Association

Ask An Expert Katy Muenter, Product Research & Development Manager at Éminence and Marine Biologist, shares the benefits of natural ingredients for your skin and her expert knowledge of the Earth’s aquatic eco-system.

Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits P R O D U C T R E S E A R C H & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R A N D M A R I N E B I O LO G I S T K AT Y M U E N T E R

to the skin.

that use the energy from the sun to grow. These range in size from

I have a shellfish allergy. Can I use the products in the Marine Flower Peptide Collection?

a single cell to over 50 meters long, and can be found in every

The Marine Flower Peptide Collection does not contain any

environment on the planet, including marine intertidal zones, hot

shellfish or animal-derived ingredients. If you can swim in the

springs, and even within ice and snow. Algae have many unique

ocean, you should have no adverse reactions to any products in

adaptations that help protect them from environmental damage so

this collection. As always, we recommend conducting a patch test

they can survive in these extreme conditions. The Marine Flower

before using any new skin care product. If you have a sensitivity

Peptide products feature several innovative algae extracts that

to iodine, you should check with your allergist prior to use.

Are algae plants or animals?

Neither! Algae are a special type of “photosynthetic” organism

impart these same powerful benefits to the skin!

Why are algae considered the “superfoods of the sea”?

Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits to the skin.

Just like land-based superfoods (such as blueberries and kale) are vibrant in color, the antioxidant pigments found in brightlycolored algae include chlorophyll and beta-carotene which naturally protect the skin.

Look for more great information about this and other Éminence collections by visiting: www.eminenceorganics.com/blog

IMMERSE YOUR SKIN WITH MARINE FLOWER PEPTIDES

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If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com. *

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Visit us at rhondaallison.com l 866-313-SKIN (7546)

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

November 2017

Volume 42, No. 11

Body Treatments & Special Events

Articles

42 49 50 58

Growing Your Business with Imaging Solutions

by Diana Ordonez

An Introduction to Body Treatments Treating Cellulite: What Really Works?

by Lyn Ross

5 Common Skin Issues that Challenge the Body and How to Treat Them

by Rhonda Allison

69

A Step-by-Step: Gemstone Treatment

74

Partying Isn’t Just a Hobby – It’s a Business!

80

Holiday Marketing How-Tos

CONTENTS

by Linda Bertaut

by Louis Silberman

by Jaclyn Strausser

N o v e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

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The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

November 2017 Volume 42, No. 11

95 35

27

25

89 98

contents

DEPARTMENTS 8 On Our Website 10 Editor’s Note 12 AIA Welcome 14 Contributors 17 Take Note 23 Leading the Pack 25 What’s Your Recipe 27 Makeup Matters 29 Resources 35 The Business Breakdown

41 73 87 89 93 105 107 111 113 114

Game Changers Tools of the Trade Latest Launches 10 Things About…

Scope This CEU Exam Worth a Look Educational Listings Advertisers Index Fact or Fiction

There is so much more to check out on DERMASCOPE.com! Read exclusive online content on our website, including articles, blogs, videos, and more. In addition, discover the extended version of some of the articles printed in the magazine. Read the featured online exclusive article of this month, Racing Against Time by Amra Lear. Get a sneak peek of the content on page 22 of this issue!

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skin beauty

The full spectrum of skincare and makeup.

To learn more about how Glo Skin Beauty can support your business growth visit gloskinbeauty.com/partnership

on our website

DERMASCOPE.com ON THE BLOG

A Natural Difference

FEATURED VIDEO

DERMASCOPE Interview: One-on-One with Skinade “Skinade is a great professional treatment partner because we work well with all of your current professional treatments that your offering, whether it be surgical or non-surgical, ablative or non-ablative. Many of our surgeons include this in their pre- or post-packaging. That way, they’re prepping their clients. They are increasing that collagen before they are kind of wounding the skin. They have a better result.” Lainie Gunderson DERMASCOPE.com/videos

on our website

on facebook

A growing consensus within the scientific community is that common disorders are all caused in part by chronic inflammation or even re-occurring inflammatory lifestyles. Inflammation is the body’s natural defense against foreign invaders or infection. Most of the time inflammation is a lifesaver that enables our body to defend itself against various diseases, caused by bacteria, viruses and parasites.

Your Worst Enemy…Inflammation

DERMASCOPE.com/blogs/ inflammation

on instagram

on twitter Brite Aesthetics I had great time at the Long Beach ICES Show!! @DERMASCOPE

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DERMASCOPE Magazine Don’t play favorites, but do work hard.

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Editor’s Note

The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy

November 2017

310 East I-30, Suite B107 Garland, TX 75043 800-961-3777 469-429-9301 Fax DERMASCOPE.com Publisher William Strunk

editor's note

W

‘Tis the Season for Holiday Marketing!

ait, it’s already the end of the year? I always look forward to the colder weather and the holiday season, but it continually seems to sneak up on me. Every year, it’s almost like Christmastime appears out of nowhere – especially now with two little boys of my own.

Nevertheless, it’s here! Now is the Keep clients in the loop about perfect time to be creatively promoting seasonal changes in the spa and skin care. Months before the first Christinvite them to try out mas song played on the radio, businesses started preparing for the holiday a new treatment. season. For spas, this involves increasing inventory, hiring additional help, marketing spa specials, and even spicing up the menu with seasonal treatments.

If there isn’t a plan in place for seasonal promotion, there is still time to implement several simple tactics that can generate profit. Manageable campaigns involve e-mail marketing, selling gift cards, pushing retail sales, and incorporating menu add-ons.

This season, in addition to Valentine’s and Mother’s Day, are peak times to promote gift card and certificate sales. These are passive ways to produce extra revenue.

Put them on the counters, post about it on social media, and mention them during conversation when checking out clients. Gift cards and certificates make great addons and ensure that either this client (or someone close to this client) will be returning, providing another opportunity to encourage brand loyalty.

Another way to get clients into the shopping mood is to make the spa’s menu reflect the season. With holiday movies playing on the television and songs on the radio, clients should already be in the spirit. Take this time as an opportunity to show them new treatments and products in the spa. Have “holiday specials” on treatments that are aptly-themed, like peppermint scrubs or pumpkin body wraps. Invent new treatments based on the weather, such as a facial for dry skin or treatment for chapped lips.

Lastly, don’t forget about the importance of e-mail marketing. A laidback approach should be avoided, especially when consumer spending is at an all-time high. Keep clients in the loop about seasonal changes in the spa and invite them to try out a new treatment. Focus on intriguing subject lines and compelling callto-action statements.

The holiday season can sometimes be stressful, but with preparation and staff members working together, it can be a successful and profitable time for the spa.

Amanda Strunk Miller Associate Publisher

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willstrunk@dermascope.com

Associate Publisher Managing Editor Amanda Strunk Miller amanda@dermascope.com

Editorial Advisor Patricia Strunk pat@dermascope.com

Copyeditor Alexis Désiré Sales Director Becky Morris becky@dermascope.com

Sales Associate Melissa Lawrence melissa@dermascope.com

Circulations & Accounting Elvia Valenzuela elvia@dermascope.com

Media Consultant William E. Strunk william@dermascope.com

Web Content Jeremy Lawrence jeremy@dermascope.com

Videographer Joe Arriola Jr. joe@dermascope.com DERMASCOPE and its associates are dedicated to keeping readers informed on every phase of the aesthetics profession. We welcome unsolicited manuscripts and newsworthy information regarding our industry, but accept no responsibility for their return. We do not necessarily endorse ideas expressed in articles published, nor do we accept liability for accuracy, claims, errors, or omissions made in advertisements.

A majority of the images, unless otherwise specified, contained within this issue were obtained via Depositphotos® Incorporated.

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AIA welcome 310 East I-30, Suite B107 Garland, TX 75043 877-968-7539 AIAprofessional.com

Comforting Body Contour Clients

AIA welcome

T

here is a quote that states, “sometimes the hardest thing to wear…is our own skin.”

The mirror is not always our best friend, how many body contouring clients feel this way? We need to take a deeper approach. not only into how we address clients, but in our techniques and treatment times to ensure we provide clients with the results they desire.

Keep in mind, body contouring clients Body contouring treatments can be short, tall, small, medium, and large. do not take days. They We know the drill; as clients comes through the door, some may already start develop- can take weeks or months. ing treatment plans before hearing the client's concerns. The reality is that most of us Being honest and upfront out there analyze client's needs before they by providing realistic even express them. Do not prematurely ofexpectations is imperative. fer up a treatment that could be contrary to what the client is coming in for. Listen to them; ask what their concerns are. Body shaming tends to be seen self-inflicted. So, be sure you to not disregard their need in order to feel more confident.

In this arena of treatments, clients tend to want a quick fix, but these types of treatments take time. Body contouring treatments do not take days. They can take weeks or months. Being honest and upfront by providing realistic expectations is imperative.

Some clients may not accept the reality of the time it takes for body contouring to take effect and that their home care regimens can impede the process. The key to success is following a strict protocol not only in how treatments are provided, but also in creating healthy homecare options.

What do you have on your menu of services that can complement your body contouring treatment plans? Body contouring includes a variety of treatments from skin tightening to cellulite and fat reduction. Treatments can be provided in a variety of ways – from radio frequency heating up the tissue to cold technology to freezing the fat away. Ensure treatments are in line with the results that clients desire.

Be empathetic with clients during their body contouring journey, which can often be a sensitive procedure. This approach will inspire trust and loyalty toward the business. Clients’ confidence and happiness will be the ultimate reward.

Michelle R. De Leon AIA Ambassador

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President Patricia Strunk

pat@aiaprofessional.com

Vice President, Director of Education Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner Membership Director Melissa Lawrence

melissa@aiaprofessional.com

Membership Coordinator Elvia Valenzuela elvia@aiaprofessional.com

2017 Manufacturer/Distributor Members

2017 School Members

Contributors Get personal with the contributors that share their expertise on this month’s featured topics.

Founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals

Rhonda Allison

Eczema, adult acne, and cellulite top the list for skin issues that spa-goers seek remedies for. “5 Common Skin Issues that Challenge the Body and How to Treat Them” breaks down some of the most typical ails occurring on clients’ faces and bodies.

Favorite drink? Mango margarita from Lahaina Grille First concert you went to? Kris Kristofferson and Rita Coolidge Founder and President of Institut’ DERMed Clinical Skin Care and College of Advanced Aesthetics

CEO of National Laser Institute

Louis Silberman

Lyn Ross, L.M.E.

“Treating Cellulite: What Really Works?” explores the world of noninvasive skin tightening. From infrared to needling, this article breaks down the many methods used to perform body contouring procedures.

Favorite high school English book?

“Little Women” Which superhero ability would you choose and why? Bionic Woman – great role model for young girls.

In “Partying Isn’t Just a Hobby – it’s a Business,” Silberman explains how he used the tactics from a popular pyramid company to grow his skin care business. From his first few customers to learning how to scale, partying for profit is explained with examples and suggestions that are actionable.

Favorite travel destination? Cabo Favorite thing to spend money on? Interior design

Senior Account Executive Greater Philadelphia at SkinCeuticals

Jaclyn Strausser, L.M.E.

contributors

“Marketing During the Holidays” is a compilation of tried and true sales tactics that can be used to move product during the holiday season and encourage the sale of more add-on treatments and an increase in clients. Get some creative ideas for unconventional holiday campaigns and how to use social media to spread the word about them with Strausser’s article.

Number one thing on your bucket list? To live at least one full year outside of the United States Favorite television show? Game of Thrones – it’s a game changer and I’m on the band wagon loud and proud. #teamhousestark

Chief Energy Officer of Chakralicious

Linda Bertaut, L.E.

As interest in wellness treatments and energy healing grow, more spas are pairing these services with skin treatments. In “A Step-by-Step: Gemstone Treatments,” Bertaut gives instructions on how to perform chakra realignment on a client.

Go-to karaoke song? “Me and Bobby McGee”

by Janis Joplin Favorite decade? 1960s because of the music, fashion, psychedelic colors, and art 14

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Product Management Director at Canfield Scientific

Diana Ordonez

In the modern world of aesthetics, technology sets one skin care professional apart from the next. In “Growing Your Business with Imaging Solutions,” Ordonez explains how skin imaging technology can elevate the experience for clients and aid skin care professionals in clientele retention.

Key moment in history would you travel back to see? When Congress passed the 19th amendment for women’s right to vote What does your name mean?

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he 10% TCA Depigmentation peel series from Skin Script is designed for lifting pigmentation and melasma; it is also suitable for acne. This TCA has been buffered with the lightening ingredients of kojic acid, azelaic acid, and arbutin.

This is a mild, gentle TCA designed to be used in a four-peel series over eight weeks. This peel series is safe for all Fitzpatrick types 1-6.

week 2

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Week 1 Start the client on homecare of: glycolic cleanser, retinol scrub, glycolic pads, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Week 2 In office treatment: Lactic Lightnening Peel (no or minimal downtime). The 20% Lactic Lightening Peel contains lactic acid, a milk-based ingredient that is great for hydrating and exfoliating the skin in a gentle manner. The peel also includes two superb lighteners.

This product can be used either as a booster for enzymes or on its own as a great lightening peel.

Week 3 In office treatment: Glycolic Peel (no or minimal downtime).

The 30% Glycolic Peel is an excellent cell renewal peel and is a great classic on its own. It is also an excellent booster to any enzyme. The glycolic acid dissolves the desmosomes that hold skin together to allow for an efficient exfoliation.

Week 4 In office treatment: 10 percent TCA Depigmentation Peel – one to two layers, minor flaking for three to four days.

10% TCA Depigmentation Peel is mild, but very effective, and delivers lighteners down to the melanocyte without traumatizing the skin. The TCA Peel is buffered with azelaic, arbutin, and kojic acids, which are tyrosinase inhibitors that control hyperpigmentation, melasma, or sun damage for all Fitzpatrick types 1–6. The combination of these acids is a beautiful peeling treatment for evening skin tone, reducing acne, and retexturing the skin.

Week 5-7 Skin rests; continue homecare.

Week 8 In office treatment: 10 percent TCA Depigemntation Peel – four to eight layers; eight to 10 medium depth peel Skin Script is dedicated to beautiful healthy skin using fresh thinking to deliver the latest in vitalized, youthful looking skin. Skin Script provides a clinical, professional skin care line containing retinols, glycolics, lactics, salicylics, and natural lighteners/ brighteners allowing professionals to customize a treatment regimen for clients’ skin conditions.

Skin Script’s vision is to support skin care professionals and provide great product, outstanding customer service, and quality advanced education.

Visit skinscriptrx.com for more information.

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Take Note Take note of industry announcements, news, and more!

IN THE NEWS HydroPeptide is proud to continue its partnership with charity: water, a nonprofit organization delivering clean, safe drinking water to people in developing countries, through the sale of Hydrating Heroes, an exclusive gift set that was launched in September. Hydrating Heroes is a skin care duo with a vegan, peptide-rich brightening eye cream and a two-in-one mattifying moisturizer/makeup printer. Every healthy, hydrating purchase contributes $3 to fund clean water projects worldwide. “‘Clean’ has always played an important role in beauty, and to continue our efforts in making the world both beautiful and clean, we are launching the Hydrating Heroes set in tandem with our partnership with charity: water,” says Annette Rubin, CEO of HydroPeptide.

“With tangible funds from every purchase going directly to building wells, we are making an impact on the world, together.” Diseases from unsafe water and lack of basic sanitation kill more people every year than all forms of violence, including war. It’s clean skin care that creates clean water – an easy, actionable way to give back.

AWARDS AND CELEBRATIONS

Miguel Angel Diego, Ph.D. in developmental psychobiology, has been rewarded the Ashley Montagu award for his exceptional contribution to enhancing global awareness of touch therapy. Diego’s work has demonstrated the efficacy of massage therapy in back pain research and continues to conduct prevention research. Diego has been a research associate professor at the University of Miami School of Medicine in the department of pediatrics since 2010. The Ashley Montagu award is bestowed every other year by the Canadian Touch Research Centre (CTRC) and the Kiné-Concept Institute. The award recognizes devotion to bringing principles of touch therapies into public recognition on a global scale. The president of the selection committee, Daniel Turcotte, notes that this year’s recipient “...is a source of inspiration in the massage therapy research field and his research highlights the importance of touch in our world.” Diego most recent work (in review) is dedicated to Frontal EEG Asymmetry Gender Differences in Infants of Depressed and Non-Depressed Mothers.

TouchAmerica was honored with an ISPA Innovate Award by the International SPA Association (ISPA) for The Masquerade by Robert Henry, the world’s first convertible couch and massage table. The ISPA Innovate Award is given to spa industry leaders with innovative and successful spa-related initiatives. TouchAmerica CEO Stewart Griffith will be presented with the award on the main stage at the

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take note

November 1, 2017 marks 10 years in business for Skin Script Skin Care. Skin Script specializes in fruit puree enzymes which address a variety of skin conditions. Lisa VanBockern started Skin Script in 2007 with the intent of providing great product to licensed aestheticians without minimums and fuss-free ordering. In 2012, Dave Waggoner, director of education, joined the Skin Script team to provide high-level training with minimal to no cost to the participant. VanBockern credits her success to great product, an amazing customer service team, outstanding education,

and amazing aestheticians who grow and prosper because of their talent using the products. Skin Script will have an open house celebration from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on November 1 at their Tempe, Arizona office.

take note upcoming 2017 ISPA Conference & Expo. “Innovation based upon our customers’ needs has driven our business since day one,” said Stewart Griffith, CEO of TouchAmerica. “We are especially thrilled to be recognized for The Masquerade by Robert Henry, as it satisfies a key market need in the hospitality industry. The convertible couch/ massage table is ideally suited to take spa outside the four walls of spa, which will drive awareness and revenues. As the most respected and innovative architect in spa and wellness, Robert Henry is the ideal partner to satisfy our client’s needs well into the future.”

take note

NEW FACES AND SPACES Carillon Miami Wellness Resort, a world-class wellness property in Miami Beach, announced the appointment of award-winning spa industry leader Catherine Strange Warren as Vice President of Spa and Wellness. In her new role, Warren manages a team of over 100 professionals in the property’s integrated spa, fitness, salon, and wellness facilities. “Spas led

by Warren receive scores of awards including Forbes Five-Star rating, Condé Nast’s ‘Top 25 Spa in the World’ and Town & Country ‘Top 15 Spas in the World,’” says Paul Nash, managing director. “Warren comes to Carillon Miami Wellness Resort during a time of significant renovations and enhancements to the property.

We look forward to her leadership taking Carillon Miami’s spa and wellness offerings to a five-star level.” Warren adds, “In only a few weeks of being on-site at Carillon Miami Wellness Resort, I’ve experienced one of the best teams of my career to date. The passion and experience from our professionals in spa, fitness, wellness and medicine will correlate perfectly with the exciting renovations throughout the resort.”

SkinCeuticals announces the opening of its latest Advanced Clinical Spa inside Advanced Dermatology and Skin Care Centre, continuing its mission to create holistic skin care plans by merging scientifically-backed skin care with the nation's top dermatologists. These partnerships allow SkinCeuticals to combine breakthrough professional treatments with clinical skin care products which ultimately leads to improved overall skin health.

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The new Advanced Clinical Spa opens in Mobile, Alabama in partnership with esteemed board-certified dermatologist Dr. Thomas Bender, MD, FAAD, ABD. Recognized as Vitals Most Compassionate Doctor in 2014 and recipient of the Vitals Patient's Choice Award in 2011, 2012, and 2014, Bender is a platinum level cosmetic dermal filler injector and treats all types of skin conditions, pre-cancers, skin cancers, acne, and rosacea.

Equipped with cutting edge lasers amongst other equipment, Bender exclusively uses the most effective treatments and best technology to ensure that patients achieve superior outcomes.

“I am honored to be partnering with SkinCeuticals. This will be an amazing opportunity for the community of Southern Alabama,” said Bender. “My goal is to always offer the best treatment to my patients, which is why we are so excited to be teaming up with SkinCeuticals.” gloProfessional, known for its formulations, products, and commitment to quality, has rebranded to become Glo Skin Beauty, a fully unified approach to skin care and makeup. According to company representatives, all the line’s products have undergone extensive research and testing, aiming to create synergy in consumer’s skin care routines.

“We recognized an opportunity to harness the latest scientific developments throughout our entire offer.” says Jerry Wenker, CEO of Glo Skin Beauty. “We developed formulations that fully complement each other, delivering a full spectrum of beauty solutions from cleansers to lipsticks. It’s an intuitive and powerful reframing. By purchasing Glo Skin Beauty, the consumer can trust in our line to deliver optimal skin health across all categories.” The brand reinvented their packaging, visually illustrating the cohesive approach of the offer. Consumers can easily understand product categories, customizing regimens that work for their concerns.

BABOR, a pioneer in professional skin care, recently unveiled a new interactive retail installation and branded space within the luxurious Biltmore Spa, at The Biltmore Hotel, a historic landmark located in Coral Gables, Florida.

BABOR promises both an indulgent experience and visible results with high-end, innovative products, making it a natural fit at the luxurious Biltmore hotel and spa. The new space is dedicated to a fully engaged consumer experience that will allow guests to access BABOR products through firsthand experience and a consultation table, as well as interactive retail and treatment offerings within a serene spa setting. “We are thrilled to be launching this new retail installation at The Biltmore,” said Benjamin Simpson, Senior Vice President of Marketing at BABOR Cosmetics. “We recognize that partnering with the right resorts, spas, and retailers is a key component in providing our consumer with access to the best treatments and products in a space that exudes the BABOR lifestyle. Naturally, The Biltmore Hotel Spa is the ideal venue for us to expand our luxury line of skin care products, as we serve the same clientele. It is truly a win for all. Our consumers now have a location in Miami, in the very exclusive Biltmore hotel, where they can purchase and experience our innovative products.”

take note

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The Director of Cosmewax’s Cosmetic regulations, Angela Guerra, now forms part of The European register of Toxologists (ERT) which includes the highest level of competent professionals specialized in Toxicology and ethical conduct. As a leader in the manufacture and commercialization of third party cosmetics, Cosmewax includes internal assessors who guarantee customers and clients around the world that their cosmetic products are safe and comply with regulations. This world renowned European certification now further strengthens Cosmewax position as an expert in European Cosmetic security and regulation. The requirements to become a registered Toxologist in Europe are extremely strict and demanding, for this reason there only exists around 4,000 toxologists in the world!

Tambra Grasley has joined Saltability, provider of quality Himalayan salt stone treatments, as Regional Sales Manager. With a passion for sustainability, Grasley is a certified aesthetician, masseuse, yoga instructor, and student of the Ayurveda techniques and has more than a decade's worth of experiences as a trainer and business development manager for a world-renowned skin care line.

Sentient Lasers, a Utah-based leader in the pre-owned aesthetic laser industry, announced the addition of John Heskett as chief operating officer. In his new role, Heskett will be responsible for day-to-day business operations, growth strategy, workforce leadership and management, and ensuring operational excellence across the company.

Prior to joining Sentient Lasers, Heskett spent nearly 20 years as an officer with Huntsman Corporation, a manufacturer and marketer of differentiated chemical products.

There, he managed the organization’s global treasury function, including all capital markets and financing, cash management, foreign exchange, credit control and insurance activities. “John is a seasoned and trusted leader with an impressive track record of strategic and operational accomplishments,” said Chris Cella, CEO of Sentient Lasers.

“John’s deep experience, knowledge and exceptional operational skills make him uniquely qualified to advance Sentient Lasers to our next stage of growth and market leadership. I am thrilled about his appointment to this critical role within our organization.”

For more current industry news, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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Community • Spa • Products • Education Online EXCLUSIVE Article

Bizarre Beauty Practices Throughout History

by Amra Lear, L.E., L.M.T. Beauty is a timeless vanity. Beginning with the Ancient Egyptians, beauty started with lined black eyes from the use of kohl, a black sulfide mineral grinded into powder. In Ancient China, the royalty and extreme wealthy stained their fingers with Arabic gum, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The brighter the fingernail color, the higher the hierarchy in that society. The Ancient Hebrews found beauty in scent from herbs and oils. But, the human fascination with beauty sometimes created life-threatening applications and methods.

To read more of Bizarre Beauty Practices Throughout History, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

BLOGS FORUMS

E-newsletter

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Stay Informed of the Latest and Greatest News in the Aesthetics Industry!

Allow DERMASCOPE.com to help you express your thoughts as a skin care professional by creating a personal blog. Engage with your followers, receive feedback by regularly providing topical and relevant information and resources, and distribute your content more widely thanks to maximum search engine optimization provided

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Get the best of what DERMASCOPE Magazine has to offer – delivered right to your inbox! By signing up for our digital newsletter, you will receive the latest news and trends in the aesthetics industry. Each e-newsletter is customized with the latest editorial content DERMASCOPE has to offer. It is the best way to stay informed about upcoming events, forum and blog topics, new website content, special announcements and offers, and so much more!

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leading the pack

Claudio Difiore president and co-owner of Bio France Lab with alopecia. This organization provides human hair replacement at no cost to children for cancer treatments, alopecia, trichotillomania, and burns because the painful effects are far deeper than cosmetics. Peter Van De Velde donated his time to cut my hair for this. We also make an annual donation through the sale of the pink cryo freeze globe for breast cancer research.

You wear so many hats in this industry. What is your secret to keeping life in balance and enjoying the journey?

I love what I do. I wake every morning and I say to myself, “I have another opportunity to make a difference in this world.” Stay positive no matter what. Life is too short to not be lived at its fullest.

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How did you come up with the name of your business?

We wanted to convey to the professional that we are a natural, botanical, organic skin care company with certified product made in France.

Is there a moment or procedure where most professionals go wrong? What could they alter for a better result?

When they lack the knowledge to use the product effectively. Greater requirements in education would increase the professional nature and respect of the licensed aesthetician.

Take advantage of the supplier classes offered by brands to acquire the latest knowledge about the ingredients and a greater understanding of the synergy of the product.

leading the pack

ith 25 years of successful industry experience in Europe and the United States, in both skin care and retail with Lab-Series, Estée lauder, The Art of Shaving, and more, Claudio Difiore created Bio France Lab. This company offers natural and botanical luxury skin care products at an affordable cost. Combined exposure to both product development and branding for many very well-known skin care companies has yielded products that have been well-received by the wholesale and spa industry.

What is your biggest hope for the industry going forward?

We will be able to continue to achieve medical-like results with non-invasive procedures. There is always room for adding new, advanced formulations, resulting in more effective products. It’s like music — we never stop creating.

Do you or your company support any particular causes or charitable organizations?

Yes. I donated hair to Children with Hair Loss to create a wig for children

For more of our chat with Claudio, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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ADVERTORIAL

Advance Esthetic

A

dvance Esthetic is a developed, international company with over 10 years of experience under the same ownership as several of our other renowned beauty companies in Europe.

In Europe, we developed a unique perspective the industry and how to be successful in it by providing the best products and services. Now we would like to expand that legacy here.

Our customers are the most valued aspects of our work, and their full satisfaction with our products and services is our primary goal.

Our large showroom, located in South Florida, has hosted aestheticians nationwide for supplementary training on how to operate our equipment.

Training support is available via Facetime, social media, Skype, and USBs (included with purchase). At Advance

You will always be able to attest to our reliability, affordability, and one-on-one easy to reach help.

“Our philosophy is to sustain strong, lasting relationship with our customers by helping them grow their businesses. We all succeed in this business when we bring communities together by connecting colleagues and empowering everyone in Skin Care field.”

Olha Maikina, Lead Aesthetician

Our products are specifically tailored to your needs, easy to operate, and stand for the highest quality. We are always looking for the newest technologies to make enhancing skin care easier and more effective.

We are also a direct importer of a huge variety of products, making them more affordable. We care about your success, we only focus caring practical and functional equipment.

Esthetic, we are committed to providing you with one-on-one customer service.

Using the newest compatible technology, we make ourselves available with the highest level of service to ensure you are always happy and confident.

More than anything, we take pride in offering great support through our highly skilled consultants and aestheticians.

We are not only focused on selling our equipment; we are also dedicated

to helping you grow your business by educating you on how to promote and expand your services via social media, posters, and brochures.

As we continue to grow and expand our product categories, our goal is to add new skin care products, larger selections of furniture, and any other items aestheticians or cosmetologists may need in their businesses, and to do it easily and affordably with lifetime client support.

Our clients allow us to succeed in our work and improve the beauty industry – one product at a time. Our promise to you is that you will always be able to attest to our reliability, affordability, and one-on-one, easy to reach help.

We appreciate any feedback and new ideas from our customers, because we are in service to you, and will always listen to improve.

For more information about Advance Esthetic, visit advance-esthetic.us.

What’s Your Recipe

What’s your recipe for surviving as an aesthetician in a technology-driven future?

by Douglas Preston, L.E., owner of Preston Skin Center, Preston Beauty Professional, and Preston Private Label Products

S

cientific advances in health and skin care have created excitement among today’s aesthetic professionals. It has also caused concern that the role of the aesthetician could be marginalized or even rendered obsolete through technological progress. This concern is partly true and partly false, depending on how skin care practices are positioned.

The following three service areas are unlikely to be diminished by technology or convenience.

WAXING Waxing remains a reliable staple for the versatile skin care professional, one that has long been an ideal way for new professionals to build a thriving book. Much fear was generated among aestheticians when hair removal laser technicians began to promote the technology as the “easy and permanent solution to unwanted facial and body hair.” It did and does continue to work well enough for some, but the high cost and spotty success rate sent many clients back to the melting pots of skin care practices.

Technology has helped aestheticians in numerous ways, from network marketing opportunities to online scheduling and product sales. There will always be clients who choose one approach over another, but personalized care and great hospitality are features of service that virtual sources simply cannot compete with. If skin care professionals stay strong in those respects, they should have a prosperous career ahead of them!

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what’s your recipe

AGING SKIN While Botox, Juvederm, Retin-A, laser, medical peels, and every form of corrective surgery have swelled the options list for age-avoidant women and men, none of these approaches, even in combination, can stop the skin from aging. The desire to slow the inevitable leaves plenty of room for the services provided by professional aestheticians. For all the visible influences medical and high-technology choices can produce on a client’s skin, there are many aesthetic refinements overlooked by those procedures. The list is significant: routinely flaking skin, follicular congestion, dehydration, milia control, firming, and others. Treatments for these conditions are found at the core of an aesthetician’s menu.

Furthermore, visiting a luxurious facial salon beats the doctor’s clinic any day!

ACNE For all the science thrown at this troubling skin condition, the problem continues to plague scores of people of all ages every year. Especially true for congestive acne, physicians today have little more to work with than the prescription pad, something that acne sufferers are increasingly disinclined to follow.

In this area, the skilled aesthetician truly shines! When working with acne that best responds to comedone removal and bacteria control, the skin care professional stands as the one reliable alternative to disappointing or toxic medications. Unless a miracle cure for acne is found (as was believed when Accutane entered the market), skin care professionals are reasonably wellset for the future in this service category.

skinade.com

increased skin hydration and radiance*

This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

reduction in fine lines and wrinkles* improvements in skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and acne*

The professional choice skinade® is the UK's leading professional skincare drink recommended by professionals.

Engineered for optimal absorption, its innovative formula contains pharmaceutical grade ingredients that are delivered straight to the skin. Combine with treatments or use with a daily skincare routine for better, smoother and younger looking skin.

*based on an independent survey of 282 people drinking skinade® for 100 days

REAL PEOPLE, REAL RESULTS Up to 73.6% increase in collagen density recorded after drinking skinade® for 90 days.

MADE IN THE UK

Available from skincare professionals only.

To find an account, go to skinade.com.

To become an authorised account, please call us on 1-800-SKINADE or email info@skinade.com

Day 0

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Day 30

better skin from within

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Day 60

Makeup Matters

Implementing Trends into a Client’s Makeup Routine

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by Gina Charles, D.O., founder of Dr. G Makeup Artist

s professionals gear up for the colder months, they want to be sure that they are creating impactful, on-trend makeup looks. A professional’s secret weapons this season are shimmering highlights, bold lip colors, and fun, metallic eye shadows.

for a more pronounced effect. Glitter eye shadow formulations include powder, loose glitter, liquid, or cream. The glittery eye shadows accentuate fluttery eyelashes, making the eyes pop with luster and shimmer. For long-lasting adhesion on the eyelids, apply a glitter eye shadow primer before applying the glitter.

LUSCIOUS LIPS This season, forget the average crimson lip color. Bold, vampy lips in the berry, wine, and blackened-plum family are all the rage. Whether it is a glossy or a matte finish, the lipstick can be applied seamlessly if clients maintain well-moisturized lips. For a matte finish, apply a matte lipstick and blot with translucent powder.

For glossy bold lips, line them with a vampy color of the client’s choice and then fill in the lips with the same pencil. Next, apply the lipstick and top it off with a clear gloss. Vampy lips can be paired with smudged-out black eye liner for a more dramatic effect.

Professionals can also eliminate eye

makeup altogether, keeping the focus on that perfect pout.

FLAWLESS SKIN Trends may fade, but timeless, glowing skin will always be in style.

Maintaining flawless skin starts with clients adhering to a quality skin care regimen, coupled with seamless foundation technique. Whether the professional is applying creams, liquids, or powders, the goal is to create a flawless finish using the right tools. Always dab on foundation with cosmetic sponges (beauty blender or wedge), a foundation brush, or airbrush spray. Use a large fan brush to sweep shimmer across the cheekbones.

Skip the mauve blush and go for a softer peach, allowing the highlight to be the face’s spotlight. Remember, the goal is to create an overall warm glow look.

Whether it is metallic eyes or shimmer highlights, the color choices are vast.

Though there are color palettes that say “fall is here,” don’t feel confined to these trends. There are only three rules: have fun, rinse those brushes, and repeat.

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Makeup Matters

SULTRY EYES Eyes set the precedence for a look that is either fun, daring, or mysterious.

For clients who are bold and outgoing, metallic eye shadows are a professional’s go-to for this season.

To achieve a sultry eye look, use a touch of cream shimmer with silver metallic eye shadow. The trick is to sweep a metallic eye shadow on the eyelids and then add glitter. If clients desire a more dramatic look, opt for lining the eyes with either silver, bronze, or gold eyeliner and extend a dramatic wing. Remember to line both the top and bottom eyelids.

For glittery eyes, apply an eye primer, followed by an application of metallic eye shadow. Then, smolder the eyes with a black eyeliner and wing it out to create a cat eye. Be sure to tap glitter eye shadow in the center of the eyelids

60

ago a seed was planted in Hungary

Youn with v g Aunt Ilike illage gathe h ri Nagyk erbalist gra ng herbs n ökény es, Hu dmother in ngary

Until she passed away, lved in Aunt Ilike was actively invo son Ferenc. creating products with her

Merit es the Order of Aunt Ilike receiv an President and ari ng Hu from the ter in 1999. the Prime Minis

Inno com vative form bin mak ed with ulas a nd e aw o ard- rganic mach winn in c ing ertifica ery prod tio ucts ns .

Since then it has grown into a global movement 60 years ago, Aunt Ilike pioneered professional organic skin care products in Hungary based on her knowledge of herbal medicine. The ilike organic skin care products are produced from whole, raw organic pulps of indigenous herbs, fruits and vegetables.

As 2018 marks our products’ 60th anniversary, we would like to say thank you to our customers for their loyalty. 60 years of success could have only been achieved by continuous innovation and development.

Look forward to more innovations in the coming year!

Whole. Raw. Real.

Experience the difference between real pulps and extracts… and let your skin decide!

60

YEARS

customerservice@szepelet.com

celebrating in 2018

No GMO MOss . No An Anim imalal Testi im e s t ing ng. Gl Glut uten en f rree e . Nut f re ree. e Veg e et etar aria ar ian/ ia n/Ve n/ Vega Ve gann. ga n.

www.ilikeorganics.com 1•888•290•6238 www.facebook.com/ilikeorganicskincare

Resources

Retinol – Just the Facts

by Robert Manzo

resources

I

n the skin care industry, there is a lot of misinformation circulating about retinol. However, information found in clinical studies, as well as articles in medical and academic journals has debunked some of the sentiments once touted as facts.

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resources DOES RETINOL INCREASE SKIN TURNOVER? No. While retinol may increase cell turnover in some cases, the primary action of retinol in skin is to “normalize the keratinization of skin.” Simply put, it makes the skin behave normally as it goes through the natural skin cell growth cycle, leading to the final sloughing process. The precise biochemistry of how it normalizes skin has not yet been discovered.

Acne improvement is an example of the action of retinol. Improvement of fine lines and wrinkles is another example of the action of retinol.

ARE ALL RETINOIDS THE SAME? No. Retinoids, the class of vitamin A ingredients, include the following (not an exhaustive list):

Ingredient

Other name

Function

Isotretinoin (prescription)

Accutane/Roaccutane, Generic

It is taken orally for severe acne.

Tretinoin (prescription)

Retin A, Renova, Retinoic Acid

It is a topical that is primarily used for anti-aging or acne.

Adapalene (recently overthe-counter)

Differin

It is an alternative to tretinoin.

Retinol

Non-drug; it converts to retinoic acid on the skin.

It is a topical that is primarily used for anti-aging or acne.

Retinal aldehyde

Non-drug; it converts to retinoic acid on the skin.

It is a topical that is primarily used for anti-aging or acne.

Vitamin A+ Antioxidant Complex BiON Skincare 877-715-2466 bionresearch.com

MultiGlow A ultra-correction night treatment CelleCle Skincare 888-731-2525 cellecleskincare.com

resources

Lumipelé Line Erase Retinol 1% Maximum Strength Bella Schneider Beauty 888-200-3977 bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Retinol Night Masque CBI Laboratories 800-822-7546 cbiskincare.com

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VITal RETINOL Gel MAX DermAware 888-292-3376 dermaware.com

resources The key is to remember that using isotretinoin or tretinoin requires a prescription to dispense or use. Retinol does not require a prescription. Retinol converts to retinoic acid through an interaction with the skin. The conversation happens over time and is not a 100 percent conversion on skin. This chart presents the ingredients in general and in order of effectiveness and efficacy of use, without mentioning side effects.

It is well known retinol can cause irritation, peeling, and swelling of the skin at higher levels. The skin can tolerate a maximum of 0.4 percent without having such an adverse effect. Be careful in reading product labels. Sometimes the product label will have an arbitrary number on it, which does not correspond with the actual concentration in the bottle. Since it is not required to put the concentration on the label for retinol, skin care professionals will not know the precise concentration.

If professionals have a product that has a controlled-release profile of retinol, they will be able to apply more retinol on skin over time due to the release profile of the retinol. This method is always preferred since professionals want to get the highest concentration they can without the irritation.

DOES RETINOL ALWAYS WORK? Retinol works part of the time. Professionals should be careful of product occlusion, which happens when a product is used and leaves behind an occlusive film. Professionals can see with

Bamboo Firming Fluid

Eminence Organic Skin Care 888-747-6342 eminenceorganics.com

the images above that the face on the left shows no occlusion under a special ultraviolet image, but when the skin surface is washed with an occlusive cleanser the face becomes dramatically occluded. If professionals use a cleanser that has ingredients like cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or other waxes like these ingredients, retinol will not work since it is not penetrating the skin’s surface. This guideline goes for any active ingredient.

Read labels carefully, especially cleanser labels. The rule of thumb is that if professionals hold the cleanser up to the light and can see through it, then it has no occlusive in it. If it is milky or pearlescent, there is a high probability it will occlude.

Retinol Smoothin Serum Glo Skin Beauty 800-232-0398 gloskinbeauty.com

resources

Revitaderm Complex

Eve Taylor 800-461-3745 theragenesisskincare.com

Retinol Serum Reset: Rebooting Night Treatment

Le Mieux Cosmetics 888-327-8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com

GR8/SKN 855-447-8756 gr8sknspa.com

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“

resources

CAN RETINOL DRY SKIN AND LEAVE IT FEELING ROUGH? Yes. A complete product regimen is very important when using retinol. As retinol interacts with the skin, it consumes water as a byproduct of the reaction. It is critical to not only keep the stratum corneum hydrated, but also the mid-epidermal and upper-dermal regions of the skin. Hydration can be accomplished by ensuring that the spa’s moisturizers have at least a combination of glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and dimethicone. This combination will yield the best results and keep the skin from becoming more inflamed.

There are a number of very good anti-inflammatory products on the market that work by several different methods to

While retinol may increase cell turnover in some cases, the primary action of retinol in skin is to “normalize the keratinization of skin.” Simply put, it makes the skin behave normally as it goes through the natural skin cell growth cycle, leading to the final sloughing process.

SHOULD CLIENTS USE A RETINOL OR VITAMIN A DERIVATIVE DAILY? No. There is a fair amount of evidence in the market through consumer’s experience that supports the notion that long-term chronic use of a retinoid can actually make wrinkles and sagging worse in skin. This idea can be seen in some clinical research, along with internal research that shows that the

Organic A Complex

Vitanol-A

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals 866-313-7546 rhondaallison.com

resources

Raya Cosmetics 800-525-7292 rayalab.com

Dermaviduals® Vitamin A Nanoparticles

Progressive Esthetics 800-355-4485 progressive-esthetics.com

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”

keep inflammation managed. Using these products in conjunction with a retinoid is a very good approach.

Retinyl Serum

Rejuvi Laboratory 650-588-7794 rejuvilab.com

resources regular use of retinoids over the course of 12-to-18 months actually thins dermal tissue. Studies confirming these findings are underway. However, it is always a good practice with retinoids to leave a client on these products for nine months and let the skin rest for three months. Following this practice will serve clients well long-term.

CAN RETINOL BE USED, EVEN IF A CLIENT HAS ROSACEA? No. Be careful of any inflammatory disease that may be present when using vitamin-A derivatives, including retinol. Unless the client’s rosacea is well-controlled and the client has a history of tolerance to retinol, it should not be used. Lupus and other immune-based diseases should be handled in a similar way.

Acne is an inflammatory disease and considerations needs to be addressed in this regard as well. When introducing a retinoid into an acne regimen, be mindful of the other ingredients in the regimen. Typically, the following ingredients are used in an acne regimen: benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, retinoids, sulfur, antibiotics, and birth control.

If the skin care professional is going to use a retinoid, they should use a lower concentration of benzoyl peroxide. This concept can be reversed if the professional identifies the root cause of the acne precisely. Salicylic acid works fairly well at one percent as an anti-inflammatory.

At two percent and higher, it can dry the skin, which, in

RapidEye™ Firming Wrinkle Smoother Rocasuba/RapidLash 508-539-7077 rapidlash.com

this case, means that it suppresses oil on the skin, giving the impression of dryness. Use a sebum supplement, like capric/caprylic triglyceride, to keep the skin supple and without the dry feeling.

Start with either a low-dose retinoid or with directions that provide a low frequency of use (once daily) and then make the doses more frequent as the tolerance improves.

When using a topical antibiotic, be careful of skin occlusion.

Put the active ingredients on first.

Use an unbuffered glycolic acid cleanser to wash the face twice daily. This action provides two benefits. The first is gentle exfoliation daily and the reduction of the pH of the skin. The second benefit is that the lower skin pH will slow bacterial presence on the skin and potentially reduce redness in that way.

Robert Manzo’s patented and proprietary cosmetic chemistry and product formulations are the result of over 25 years in the skin care development profession.

He has conducted clinical research and developed specialized skin care products and techniques in Europe, the US, South America, and Asia, affording him an expansive knowledge base to achieve personalized solutions for Skinprint’s clients. He has published articles on skin chemistry and the role of anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients on skin, and is a standing member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the American Chemical Society. skinprint.com

Reti-Pur TR Retinol Plus

Skin Blends 877-754-6253 skinblends.com

Skinprint 800-234-1308 skinprint.com

Exfol-A™

Vivant Skin Care 800-984-8268 vivantskincare.com resources

Active Whitening Mask SAIAN 800-291-1130 saian.net

To learn more about these products, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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The Business BREAKDOWN

Must-Haves for a Spa Website

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by Bella Schneider

ith today's competitive spa industry, it is essential to have an up-to-date and modern website that clearly represents the business and all services offered. Skin care professionals are in the field of making clients feel and look beautiful; the website needs to reflect that. A clean design that is visually appealing and easy to navigate will attract new clientele and keep existing clientele coming back.

TELL A STORY WITH VISUALS Think about it: customers look for a spa online because they want to feel and look good. So it makes sense that a professional’s website should be visually appealing and have a soothing, inviting, and beautiful aesthetic, right from the be-

ginning – the home page. Visuals speak louder and faster than words. Carefully choose the visuals used to represent the space and services. Staged and well-lit wide shots of the locale are important to drive home the point – professionals are here to beautify, de-stress, and solve the aesthetic issues of clientele. Investing in a good photographer and photo shoot is money well spent. Multimedia and flash images that alternate, as opposed to static imagery, enhance the user experience.

A video or virtual tour of the spa, services, staff, or products is a great way to represent the company. If high quality ingredients are used in the products, portray those ingredients along with beautiful skin and hair with alluring photography.

EASY-TO-NAVIGATE People are stressed and impatient with all they need to juggle today. Don't

let the spa’s website add to their stress or be complicated or potential customers might never make an appointment.

Make sure the website loads quickly and is mobile-friendly. If pages take too long to download, the risk of losing visitors is high. Ensure that the mobile version of the website has the same information and is easy to use. Consider implementing a content delivery network, using image formats that are easy to see. And, stick to functional plug-ins that keeps the user experience simple.

Make important pages prominent so users can easily browse the website. Services should pop up immediately and be in a categorized format.

Incorporate a search function that can display responses seamlessly so prospective clients can quickly find what they want. Guide them quickly by using keywords, bulleting, highlighting, and

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the business breakdown

FORM AN IDENTITY While the building or redesigning of a website can be daunting, keep it easy by focusing on uniqueness. What makes the spa different? Who makes up demographic? Figure out what sets the spa apart from the one down the street and focus on amplifying that distinction. Explain any unique benefits as a brand and how the company responds to customers’ needs. When describing services, speak clearly to the target audience. Be specific and detailed about the services offered.

Continually update content, adding new services, products, and images based on season and trends. This will keep the website fresh and interesting. This also makes the website stand out to media and search engines like Google that continually look for updated content.

the business breakdown breaking down information, while leaving plenty of white space to make information easy to see. Make copy light and conversational, yet in line with the brand. Within three seconds, users should be able to tell by the headline what is being offered. Also, links to the spa’s social media sites should be seen to encourage sharing with friends.

the business breakdown

CALLS TO ACTION Decide which want clients should take and then lead them there, literally.

Want customers to book massages? Specialized facials? Purchase a new skin care collection? Guide them there visually.

Convert traffic into customers by leading clients to an online appointment booking function, online boutique, or call button. Make sure that every purchase can be done directly from the website on both the standard and mobile versions.

Other tactics that lead to sales include highlighting current and of-the-moment specials; advertising e-gift cards; and displaying clear images of products offered with descriptions of what they are, how they should be used, and what ingredients they contain. Talk about service and product benefits with call-outs that allow them to purchase or book on the spot.

If clients prefer to go in-store, ensure that contact information, e-mails, and physical address are easy to find with a link to a map and directions.

In order to facilitate purchases and online booking, make sure the website

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uses the highest security standards to protect credit card and personal information.

Use a secure and reliable host and secure the website with an SSL certificate that encrypts sensitive data. Clients are savvy; if those features are not present, first-time users can easily be lost.

DEVELOP FAITH IN THE BRAND Positive reviews can tip the scale in favor a professional’s company over competition. Display positive user testimonies, accolades, awards, and recognitions. Not for the sake of bragging, but because users want to know if they can trust the company. By hearing from likeminded individuals, or known brands that have comparable standards, people feel more secure to trust in these services and products. In this day and age, people turn to online media before they turn to people they know for recommendations.

A professional must build online credibility in order to convince people that their brand is of quality. Enhance this by creating an informational blog component on the website. Creating a blog also helps take advantage of site engine optimization (SEO) benefits, because regularly updated articles with pertinent content ranks higher on search engines. Also, share any media features to impress and justify the brand’s worth to new users.

KEEP TRACK In the old days, professionals could ask clients or the front desk how new cli-

Complete Beauty for

Lashes, Brows, Skin & Hair For More Information:

877.760.6677

orders@rocasuba.com rapidlash.com

the business breakdown

“

the business breakdown

Every page should have unique title tags and description metatags to be recognized by web crawlers. Metadata is used to explain to search engines what each page of the website is about.

ents found them. But with websites, technological mediums are used to figure out where users are coming from and why.

Thankfully, advanced technology offers a myriad of tracking tools to help owners learn about users and enhance the user experience. Use Google analytics to track website visitors and monitor what they do when they get to the website. Owners should find out whether visitors are going to the pages they want them to go to, in which order, and if they are spending enough time on the website. Find out where and why them come to the website. And do this all for free! To enhance efficacy, study keywords before putting together the website and incorporate them in all the content to ensure that target audience is finding it. Get listed in as many online directories as possible.

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Using proper SEO through the implementation of keywords throughout the text, links, name page titles, and URLs will ensure that potential clients find the website readily. Every page should have unique title tags and description metatags to be recognized by web crawlers. Metadata is used to explain to search engines what each page of the website is about. To pay for more action, use Google Adwords to intentionally target users searching for these services and products, and always make sure to register the website URL with various search engines.

Open direct communication with clients by creating a feedback form for visitors so that customers can express what they want, to gauge their satisfaction, and to recruit positive feedback and prevent

negative feedback from being published on another medium. Request client e-mail addresses the website with pop-ups that give users access to a free informational booklet, eBook, or guide in exchange for their contact information.

Remember, most users research the business online through the website and reviews before coming in. Today, a website is their first impression the business. Make it visually appealing and alluring and the clients will come!

Bella Schneider, P.M.E., leads a team of more than 200 aesthetic professionals at three premier spas. For more than 35 years, Schneider has traveled the world to bring service providers the best in aesthetic science; as a groundbreaking formulator, successful retailer, and respected educator, her mission is to help professionals enhance their practice and grow their business. Winner of the Nouvelles Esthetiques lifetime achievement Crystal Award for contributions to beauty science, Schneider hosts beginning-to-advanced training in clinical and spa skin care as well as ethnic skin care, peels, and other new techniques at Bella Schneider Beauty’s Palo Alto, Calif.-based training center.

game CHANGERS

Organic Skin Care

T

he world of aesthetics, though steadfast in its efforts to sooth and beautify, is forever changing due to clients’ needs – one of the latest trends being a push for organic skin care products. In an effort to take a more holistic approach, skin care professionals are turning to products combining botanicals, minerals, and essential oils to curate an impactful regimen for clients.

ORGANIC COCONUT One of the most versatile fruits in health and beauty, the coconut is the keeper of a popular carrier oil for essential oils and the foundation of tons of hair, body, and skin care products – coconut oil.

It is often used in facial cleansers, toners, and moisturizers because of its ability to hydrate while its antimicrobial properties keep it clean, revealing clear, radiant skin.

CLARY SAGE OIL

SPIRULINA Considered a super food, this oceanic alga contains an array of nutrients that are beneficial to many functions in the body, including the preservation of healthy skin. Spirulina is often included in health food to detoxify the body, which detoxifies the skin by default. Due to an increase of metabolism while consuming or applying a product with spirulina in it, the skin cell turnover rate is much higher which heals skin faster and prevents bad bacteria that can cause acne breakouts.

Eminence Organic Skin Care Eminence’s Facial Recovery Oil is just one example of the brand’s double certified organic and Biodynamic® products. This award-winning favorite blends precious herbs and luxurious oils grown and extracted on certified organic and Biodynamic farms in Hungary. Formulated with clary sage oil, olive oil, sage leaf extract, and ylang-ylang, the Facial Recovery Oil contains no chemical pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, or genetically modified organisms. 888-747-6342 or eminenceorganics.com

game changers

In this essential oil, there is a chemical compound called linalyl acetate that reduces inflammation and heals rashes.

So, naturally, clary sage oil is often used in acne cleansers, toners, masks, and serums. Aside from its healing properties, clary sage oil regulates the amount of sebum the skin produces, benefiting clients with oily and dry skin alike. Typically, the oil is used in addition to other ingredients to encourage better absorption. Balancing sebum production aids in the elimination of adult acne.

Aviva Labs Organic serums by Aviva Labs are concentrated drops of uniquely blended ingredients designed to enhance a spray tan. One of three new Organic Serums catering to a client’s specific skin needs, the organic Coconut Milk and Lavender Serum soothes and repairs while providing long-lasting moisturization. Combined with an Aviva spray tan, Organic Serums will provide not just the tan the client wants, but also the nourishment their skin needs. 888-692-8482 or avivalabs.com

Inlight Beauty Organic Skincare Inlight Beauty Organic Skin Care’s Super-Food Face Mask is a certified 100 percent organic oil-based formula that is water-, chemical-, and cruelty-free, non-GMO, homeopathic, and vegetarian-friendly.

Packed with antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and naturally rich in vitamin E, it is a great weekly detox and anti-aging treatment.

It contains spirulina, is rich in chlorophyll for detoxification, barley grass and rose hip oil for skin repair, and ground baobab powder for gentle exfoliation.

The combined synergy stimulates cell renewal and collagen production to plump, firm, and refresh the skin. 941-350-0014 or hugyourskin.com

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Growing Your Business with Imaging Solutions How to use technology for special events to increase engagement, sales, and loyalty

by Diana Ordonez

O

ffices, spas, and clinics looking for new and exciting ways to attract and retain clients do not need to look further than the skin imaging technology available today. In a competitive market filled with products and treatments that promise positive results, skin imaging enables meaningful and realistic consultations that empower service providers to clearly communicate, target areas of concern, and explore long-term plans with prospective clients.

Using high-quality imaging as a focal point in the consultation demonstrates commitment and confidence to clients.

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CHANGING THE CONSULTATION DYNAMIC

Attracting and retaining customers often comes down to a unique combination of expertise, service excellence, and a perception of novelty or differentiation, all combined with a dose of “prove it.” Digital skin imaging tools provide this unique combination and are changing the way businesses interact with clients. Providing a unique assessment not available via a consumer mobile app or internet-based tool empowers clients to see the possibilities and opportunities of skin imaging and inspires them to make confident in-spa decisions.

Skin imaging motivates clients to act, accelerates decisions, opens lines of communication, creates market differentiation, generates spa excitement, and provides a platform for external marketing. By using specialized lighting modalities, high quality optics, and image processing, skin images can educate clients on the different aspects of skin health. Integrating imaging with consultations opens up the lines of communication by uncovering existing skin concerns and visually demonstrating the importance of preventative action. Quality skin imaging technology provides valuable insight into surface and sub-surface skin conditions, enabling skin care professionals to improve the effectiveness of consultations, document pre- and post-consultation treatment results, and use images and results to attract new clients and retain existing clients, thereby increasing revenue.

Using reliable, quality imaging tools changes the consultation dynamic. Professionals are no longer just selling a service or product, they are objectively recommending and tracking progress for the skin concerns identified by an objective source. Using tools that enable professionals to reliably capture photographs in the exact same way each time allows them to show credible before and after results, convincing the client that their investment is resulting in a positive change and motivating them to continue with the suggested treatment plan.

SEEING IS BELIEVING

Today’s clients are not passive recipients of information – they want to know the facts and have a wealth of 44

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information at their fingertips. They are less motivated by traditional advertising claims. Before making spending decisions, clients of all ages are doing their research and looking for proof of efficacy in the experiences of other consumers similar to them. Clients want objective reassurance that they will have a positive outcome. Gaining the confidence of prospective clients cuts the selling cycle, increases sales, and shows a clear return on investment.

Image analysis tools can also help to leverage successful outcomes to market the business’s brand or practice. Images depicting improvement over time for multi-session procedures, such as the progress of body contouring treatments, can illustrate obtainable positive results and motivate others to seek those treatments. Additionally, images and data can be used for informational client videos or educational presentations and at local events. It can also be used to create website and social media content.

Technology also enables cross-selling opportunities.

Attributes such as aging simulations and skin-age analysis allow professionals to extend the conversation and explore prevention and maintenance as topics rather than just concern-based discussions. Technology facilitates the integration of product recommendations into the consultation and image documentation process, allowing for an easy transition from a discussion about the client’s needs to the development of a treatment plan and homecare regimen that addresses their concerns.

ANYTIME, ANYWHERE TECHNOLOGY

By leveraging technology in client interactions, skin care professionals and their clients reap the benefits of a streamlined consultation. Professionals become more efficient, see more clients, and increase client satisfaction by reducing wait times and creating pleasant in-spa experiences. Mobile and cloud-based solutions can help professionals make the most of their investment. Using these tools allows them to conduct consultations in multiple treatment rooms simultaneously, adapt the

platform to their preferred workflow, and extend the consultation past the initial visit by providing clients with remote access to their results and recommendations. In addition, versatile portable solutions enable professionals to conduct skin health events and consultations in new and interesting locations.

A tool that offers the clients anytime, anywhere access to their information caters to today’s consumer who is accustomed to instant gratification. Following an initial consultation, if the client has the ability to revisit the consultation remotely, it encourages post-visit communications, further building the spa-client relationship. This proactive sharing of image and consultation information keeps clients engaged and motivated and encourages them to continue investing in their results. Issues or concerns with their regimen or long-term plans are addressed proactively by monitoring results, which creates loyalty and identifies educational opportunities for clients. In addition, clients will have had a unique experience. By providing an easy way for them to share their results with friends and family, they will be excited to refer others to the spa.

Keep an eye out for next month’s issue!

Understanding Spa Product Labels

by Heather Kreider, L.E., R.N.

Treating Acne with Modern Day Modalities and Eastern Medicine

by Dasha Saian, L.E.

SEEING THE BIG (DATA) PICTURE

Technology does, however, require an initial investment of time and money and is valuable only if professionals can prove its success. The best way to evaluate success is with data. For example, the same technology that enables in-

Looking to Nature for Acne Answers

by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc, CIHC, CNAP

Reduce Acne Suffering: The Use of Good Clinical Photographs to Improve Treatment Compliance

by Jim Larkey

Winter Dry Skin

by Kat Khadija Leverette

10 Things About…

Massages

by Lilliane Caron

All in the December 2017 issue of

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creased client interaction at an event also enables skin care professionals to accurately evaluate and build on an event’s success. Professionals can track metrics about how many consultations they were able to perform at any given event, what products were recommended, how much time was spent with clients on average, and which clients remained engaged post-consultation by reviewing their images and recommendations remotely. These metrics can be used to identify a correlation between the event and the frequency of post-event remote access. This database can then be used for target marketing communications to clients based on their personal product or treatment preferences; this enables professionals to have strategic touch points based on their levels of interest. With data, a host of business-building opportunities emerge by giving professionals visibility to their clients’ trends, allowing professionals to reach their clients and prospects more effectively.

MAKING IT EVENTFUL

Once professionals understand the benefits of technology, its value, and how to use the associated data, they can use it to attract new clients. Sample before and after images, along with the aggregated data about overall client results and satisfaction, are a powerful marketing tool that can be leveraged through newspaper and magazine advertisements, waiting room and client brochures, posters, and referral coupons. With client consent to use consultation images and aggregated anonymized client data, professionals are empowered to proactively attract new business.

Events can also be a powerful marketing tool, offering a creative way to highlight expertise in an interesting, low-pressure environment. Events create excitement, attract both loyal clients and new prospects to the spa and offer potential clients a good reason to try the spa’s services, which is the first step to creating loyal customers. For example, using skin imaging technology at an event to provide

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free consultations intrigues potential clients and provides an easy way to connect with those who dropped in on a greater scale. Event types can be educational or learningfocused, hands-on, charitable, special-guest focused, or themed. The possibilities are endless.

At a learning event, use the technology to focus on teaching attendees about different skin concerns, treatments, and how-to topics. Options might include an aesthetician addressing the benefits of proper skin care and the effects of aging or a makeup artist revealing the latest techniques in contouring and highlighting. Similar to a learning event, a hands-on event takes a topic and allows attendees to roll up their sleeves to learn and do at the same time. They may perform an at-home treatment in the spa or see the results of their own analysis in the context of the topic that is being covered.

Events that have a cause or charity tied to them are very effective at attracting clients because there is a “feel good, do good” element. Donate a portion of the event proceeds or assign a monetary value to the skin imaging consultation and donate that amount to a cause or charity.

Shopping or spending for a cause is something people take pride in and it is what helps make these events successful.

Inviting a special guest to host an event is a simple and effective way to get people to attend. Invite a local athlete or fitness expert for an overall health-inspired event. Work with a local popular chef or restaurant to cook a healthy meal.

Team up with a makeup artist to provide “big day” makeovers that complement skin imaging consultations.

Professionals can also make their event an invitationonly affair. People love to be part of exclusive, special events and a VIP event can help attract potential clients.

Create an event for loyal clients, inviting them to bring a guest; offer special spa hours, discounts, and elevated customer service. Secure their skin analysis session with a deposit that assigns a value to the experience and then apply it to their product or service purchase.

To expand the spa’s reach and increase the number of potential event attendees, team up with a local business for an event that combines specialties. Ideas include a healththemed event with the local gym, smoothie bar, or holistic

practice and a beauty event with local hair salons, makeup artists, or even a local dentist. Market to the professional woman with a focus on skin care for the woman on the move.

Team up with the local chapters of organizations that cater to professional women, plan an event with the Chamber of Commerce, or even reach out to the local PTA. Bringing technology to these events makes skin care professionals the partner of choice and allows them to engage and reach new clients that might otherwise have been inaccessible.

Seasonal events also draw in clients. Winter is a perfect time to start clients on a treatment plan. The summer months offer the opportunity to remind everyone how to protect their skin. Bring an event to a local park or an annual 5K run for sun safety awareness and skin fitness. Portable imaging technology that can uncover subsurface sun damage makes a greater impact at outdoor events, communicates the importance of sun damage reversal during the winter months, and stresses the importance of prevention during the summer months.

Bridal shows with a focus on preparing for the big day are always a great way to extend reach by getting exposure to brides, bridal parties, and wedding attendees. Imaging can help attract a crowd and provide a unique experience at the event that makes professionals a memorable exhibitor. Bridal-themed events in the fall and again in the spring doubles the professional’s impact.

When all is said and done, nurturing relationships, either with other business owners or clients, helps professionals create a client base. The stronger their relationships, the more likely clients will be to tell their friends about the spa return to the spa themselves.

GETTING THE WORD OUT

Now that skin care professionals have the technology, data, themed event, and potential partners, how do they get people to come to their spa? A simple public relations approach can ensure a well-informed public and a full appoint-

ment book. Send a small write-up to the local newspaper and other media outlets that highlight the professional’s capabilities, promotions, special event, partners, and unique technology, complete with before and after images. Contact the local news station and offer to give demonstrations. Reach out to local organizations with event or special offer details. Attract ideal clients by giving them something of value for free to get them started. Often, the idea of a free, personalized skin imaging consultation is enough to get them in the door. If professionals use a specialty brand of products, contact the company, offering to speak about the great results documented with imaging technology. Professionals can also agree to announce the company’s new products or services through media outlets or offer them space at an event.

Technology can play a vital role in illustrating expertise in advertising. Highlight skin imaging technology and planned events using webinars, blog posts, and social media and network with people to start to attract a following. With a structured sales funnel setup, professionals will be able to convert the followers and fans into paying clients. Skin imaging results and the associated data make all of this easier.

Use the technology and tools to initiate, plan, execute, and follow up on events. With a striving and successful business, pictures will be worth much more than 1,000 words.

Diana Ordonez is a director of product management at Canfield Scientific where she is responsible for consultative imaging tools, mobile applications, and cloud services, including the highly successful VISIA Complexion Analysis system, as well as strategic partnerships. Ordonez is a frequent speaker at industry conferences about using facial imaging systems to improve conversions, increase revenues, and market the capabilities of a medical spa practice. She is a member of the trade group Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) and happy to be a contributor to DERMASCOPE: The Encyclopedia of Aesthetics & Spa Therapy.

Ordonez holds a Master of Arts in Industrial and Organizational Psychology from Montclair State University.

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n to...

ductio An intro

BODY TREATMENTS

I

n 2016, Americans spent more than 15 billion dollars on combined surgical and nonsurgical procedures for the first time ever.

Nonsurgical procedures were up seven percent in 2016.

T

he nonsurgical procedures that saw the most significant increases in 2016 include: photorejuvenation (up 36 percent), hyaluronic acid (up 16 percent), laser tattoo removal (up 13 percent), nonsurgical skin tightening (up 12 percent), and botulinum toxin (up eight percent).

P

eople between the ages 35 to 50 had the most procedures performed (over 5.3 million, ac­ counting for 39.3 percent of the total).

N

onsurgical procedures for men and women over the age of 65 have increased by 93 percent in just five years.

M

en had nearly 185,000 surgical procedures, (nine percent of the total) and more than 1 million nonsurgical procedures, (nine percent of the total) in 2016.

Reference Cosmetic Surgery National Data Bank Statistics. (n.d.). Retrieved from https:// www.surgery.org/sites/default/files/ASAPS-Stats2016.pdf

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Treating Cellulite:

What Really Works?

by Lyn Ross, L.M.E.

C

onsumers want effective, non-invasive treatments that help contour and slim the body along with healthy lifestyle practices.

Modern aesthetic technology and treatments are viable alternatives to surgical procedures, which often necessitate significant downtime. With the right marketing direction and client education, skin care professionals can make body contouring one of the most in-demand services on the treatment menu.

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THE DESIRE FOR BODY CONTOURING Women of all ages seek noninvasive methods to shape their bodies.

Cellulite is a common concern for the majority of post-pubescent women, with 85 percent having some form of it. Many women assume that their cellulite is reflective of their fitness level, although it is not necessarily the case.

While regular exercise can help reduce the appearance of cellulite, estrogen is the main culprit of its formation.

Estrogen causes subcutaneous fat cells to swell, cutting off circulation and producing an inflammatory response within the skin that causes cellulite to assume its classic orange-peel appearance. Along with genetic disposition, estrogen also contributes to the development of stubborn pockets of fat that are resistant to diet and exercise, even if women are at their ideal weight.

Paradoxically, weight loss can actually make cellulite appear worse in a client whose skin is thinner and is less elastic due to aging or hormones. Pregnancy and menopause can also trigger hormonal changes in the body, which aggravate the appearance of cellulite.

When clients go to the spa for a body contouring treatment, the best methods to address their concerns are to use technology and products that build skin-strengthening collagen to improve tone and texture, since firmer skin will appear smoother.

AESTHETIC DEVICES FOR BODY SCULPTING AND CELLULITE REDUCTION

Endermologie

Endermologie is a popular body contouring machine that has revolutionized the field of cellulite reduction and anti-aging. Designed by LPG, endermologie is a completely non-invasive way to firm the areas of concern and improve cellulite through the process of mechanical lipomassage. The FDA-approved machine uses patented motorized rollers, which gently yet intensively utilize targeted motion and suction to eliminate fat deposits and tighten sagging skin.

A Vanderbilt University Medical Center study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal (the first study of its kind to find evidence supporting ender52

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“

While regular exercise can help reduce the appearance of cellulite, estrogen is the main culprit of its formation.

mologie as a cellulite reduction device) found that endermologie treatments appeared to create collagen bands that ran parallel to the surface of the skin, which, in turn, created a smoothing effect on the surface of the skin. Changes were more significant the more treatments a client had, leading to the current recommendation that best results are achieved with a series of treatments.

Clients wear a nylon body stocking for treatments to avoid friction on the skin as it is vacuumed and kneaded. It is an enjoyable treatment and has the same feeling as a deep tissue massage. Blood and lymphatic circulation improves, helping to flush away accumulated toxins and excess water; the treatment reactivates the breakdown of fat (lipolysis), which aids in sculpting problem areas. Endermologie also benefits clients who have issues with fibrosis, inflammation, edema, lymphedema, and circulatory problems.

Endermologie treatments range from 20-to-40 minutes and areas that can be treated are the hips, thighs, legs, buttocks, stomach, and upper arms. There are few contraindications

�

of endermologie, including pregnancy, circulatory or vascular disease, cancer, blood clots, varicose veins, wounds, infectious diseases, AIDS, and clients taking anti-coagulant medication.

Radiofrequency

Radiofrequency is the latest non-invasive skin technology that is gaining popularity for tightening skin on the face and body. Radiofrequency uniquely uses light energy that bypasses the epidermis to heat the dermal layer and stimulate collagen production, triggering lipolysis. Radiofrequency current is defined as a high-frequency electric current in the 0.3 to 100 megahertz range. These radio frequency waves affect the primary layers of the skin, causing them to react to the energy that the waves create. This is a kinetic influence and because the heat is introduced in low frequency waves, there is no damage to the outer layer of the skin. It is these vibrations of a certain wavelength that cause the skin to react by tightening.

As a cellulite intervention, radiofrequency works by applying the

thermal energy to the treatment area to denaturalize the proteins in the connective tissue. This effect creates a tightening in the connective tissue as these proteins regain their structure, helping to prevent the underlying fat cells from protruding outward and causing a dimpled effect. This treatment is perfect for clients who want optimal results with absolutely no downtime, since the epidermis is undisturbed. Most clients will likely see an immediate tissue tightening effect and an improvement of skin laxity, but full clinical results may not be seen for the first few months.

Optimal results are typically seen after six-to-10 treatments, with a maintenance treatment every six months thereafter.

A treatment gel is applied to act as a barrier between the client’s skin and the device handpiece that is delivering the energy. Once the treatment is completed, a soothing lotion is applied to the skin. Clients may experience mild redness immediately following the treatment, which dissipates quickly. Radiofrequency is virtually pain-free and gives instant results;

normal activities may be resumed immediately after treatment.

Contraindications of radiofrequency are minimal when performed correctly. People with pacemakers or metal implants cannot be treated because radiofrequency current flowing through the body may interfere with these devices or heat up metal implants, which could be dangerous.

Infrared LED

Combining LED treatments with radiofrequency treatments is a relatively new combination treatment for skin tightening and appears to be producing superior results. LED light therapy delivers energy through light emitting diodes. LED light has the ability to stimulate ATP (adenosine triphosphate) within the body.

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ATP is the chemical messenger that signals the skin’s fibroblast to produce collagen. The red and infrared LED light promotes collagen production and improves skin firmness. Optimal LED wavelengths for tissue regeneration are 880 nanometers. Visible red light activates skin cells and promotes blood circulation. Near-infrared light (720 nanometers and above) is absorbed by the skin and is used as energy to stimulate fibroblast cell activity, increase collagen, and stabilize elastin proteins. Cumulative benefits are achieved over time with regular treatments. Visible results should occur within four-to-eight weeks.

LED applications are non-invasive, painless, and have absolutely no downtime for clients. Handheld LED devices can be recommended to the client for at-home use. These devices are non-invasive, low-level, nonthermal light energy that activates skin cells. It is also safe for all skin types, skin colors, and ages. Contraindications are pregnancy, epilepsy, thyroid conditions, open wounds or lesions, and clients susceptible to migraines.

Needling

The principle of skin needling is to stimulate the body’s own production of collagen. Dermal microneedling involves the use of a

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sterile roller comprised of a series of fine, sharp needles that create many microscopic channels, stimulating the body to produce new collagen. At a microscopic level, proliferated skin cells, such as fibroblasts, migrate to the point of injury and transform into collagen fibers, resulting in increased fiber strength and elasticity.

This treatment improves the skin by inducing the increased production of collagen, facilitating natural repair and growth, and making the skin stronger and thicker. This process takes approximately two-to-three months to produce smoother, firmer, and younger-looking skin.

As the therapeutic use of microneedling has grown, various modifications have occurred since the roller was originally introduced. Needling procedures for body skin tightening are performed in a precise manner in order to achieve a uniform depth of penetration of topical products and the needle cylinder is rolled on the skin in multiple directions (hence the name ‘dermal roller’). The procedure is normally completed within 30-to-60 minutes, depending on the required treatment and anatomical site. Topical ingredients applied during this treatment more deeply penetrate into the skin cells and can vastly improve the appearance of skin laxity and cellulite.

After the procedure, the skin will be red and flushed in appearance in a similar way to a moderate sunburn.

Clients may also experience skin tightness and mild sensitivity to the touch on the area being treated. The skin’s redness will diminish greatly after a few hours following the treatment and, within the next 24 hours, the skin will be generally calm. After three days, the skin will return to a normal or near normal appearance.

Age and skin condition will determine the number of treatments required to achieve the maximum effect.

Although results are evident from both the skin texture and its appearance after the very first session, between three-to-eight treatments with a threeor four-week interval between visits is recommended for optimal results. It is also recommended that the client use a roller at home up to three times a week between treatments. Homecare rollers, with needles less than 0.1 millimeters in length, increase the transdermal delivery of topical ingredients, helping clients maintain results between professional treatments.

Microneedle roller body treatments are an affordable treatment option for most clients with minimal discomfort and downtime and can be safely performed on all skin types and ethnicities. There is little-to-no risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation as the melanocytes remain, like the dermis, intact during skin needling. This is the major distinguishing safety feature.

Contraindications for microneedle rolling are keloid scars; eczema, psori

asis, and other chronic skin conditions; actinic (solar) keratosis; herpes simplex infections; diabetes; raised moles or warts on targeted area; scleroderma; collagen vascular diseases or cardiac abnormalities; blood-clotting problems; active bacterial or fungal infection; and pregnancy.

Microcurrent

Microcurrent has been around since the 1980s in the United States and has been used to treat a wide variety of medical conditions. The ‘tens’ system for pain management utilizes microcurrent. Microcurrent mimics the electrical current in the body and has the ability to speed up the metabolism of the tissue and cellular activity.

This is also useful for re-educating muscles to lift (toning) and stimulating collagen and elastin production and ATP, which plays a critical role in the body for signaling and energy metabolism. In the cosmetic arena, microcurrent is used to deliver a unique electrical waveform that, in combination with the naturally occurring biological current of the body, works on the nerve and muscle cells.

This technology works internally on the muscle fiber and tissue for visible, external results, such as increased tone and muscle tightening.

Using specific microcurrent frequencies has targeted beneficial actions for lifting and toning the body. Microcurrent is measured in hertz, which is the frequency or speed of the current.

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stimulates circulation, 10 hertz lifts superficial muscles, and 0.8 hertz gives a lift to deep muscles. The frequency variation in the current can be concentrated on specific tissues and adapted to the individual needs of each client. The microcurrent frequency utilized produces different effects on the muscle and the tissue of the skin. Microcurrent is corrective, as well as a preventative treatment, producing a proliferation of cells by the fibroblasts secretion of proteins. Applying a specific current to specific muscular areas encourages the re-education of sagging muscles and assists in the correction of atrophy. In addition, because the muscle and tissue is then in a better state of repair to receive the body’s own natural bioelectrical impulses, the aging process is delayed.

Best results are achieved with a series of treatments performed twice a week consecutively for the first 10 weeks, with maintenance treatments every four-to-six weeks thereafter.

Clients can continue the effectiveness of the professional treatment by using a complementary skin care routine at home that contains clinically-proven ingredients for skin tightening and toning, such as glycolic acid and shea butter.

Contraindications are physical or mental limitations, implants, pacemakers, hearing aids, a history of seizures, epilepsy, pregnancy, or active cancer.

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Galvanic

Galvanic current is a constant electrical current with low voltage, which can be used on the body to penetrate beneficial topical solution into the skin. It is especially useful for cellulite treatments on the body, helping to penetrate gels into the skin and to stimulate lymphatic drainage. The client forms a circuit by holding a covered electrode in the hand, which is linked to the machine. Rollers are also linked to the machine and placed on the body to form a circuit for the current to flow through. Penetration of products into the skin is performed by iontophoresis (same poles repel each other, opposite poles attract).

The ions are forced into action by the electrical current. When the polarity of the machines rollers is the same as the polarity of the product, they will not attract one another. In this way, the ions in the cream will be attracted to the electrode in the hand, therefore going through the skin to get there.

There are many creams and gels with electrolytes (or ions) available to work with, so always check which polarity to use. As long as the rollers and the topical product are the same polarity, they will not be attracted to each other, but to the opposite electrode in the hand.

Achieving maximum penetration for active ingredients that promote collagen and elastin will promote the natural regenerative process of the skin and give added tone and elasticity to the tissue and the skin.

Contraindications include broken skin, cuts, abrasions or acne pustules, pregnancy, epilepsy, implants, heart conditions, pace makers, migraine sufferers, high or low blood pressure, and nervous clients.

REALISTIC BODY CONTOURING GUIDELINES FOR CLIENTS Always consult with clients on their expectations and what can realistically be achieved based on their skin condition, body type, and lifestyle. For example, subcutaneous fat lays on top of muscle, so if the muscles are weak or slack, this can contribute to an uneven

of cell renewal for aging skin. This stimulation also affects the fibroblasts and helps to prevent the disorganization of collagen and elastin support networks with long-term use.

Stock retail items in the spa, such as natural dry body brushes, loofahs, handheld massagers, LEDs, and cosmetic microneedle rollers. These items are low-cost inventory and a logical sell through to body-contouring clients who want to maintain results.

appearance of the skin's surface. In such cases, an exercise plan combined with aesthetic body rejuvenation treatments may be necessary to help clients achieve their contouring goals or a recommendation for a combination of treatments, such as radio frequency and microcurrent, to address both the superficial and the underlying issues.

Topical homecare product recommendations with active ingredients that can have a stimulatory effect on lipolysis may also be a necessary component for achieving results in the appearance of cellulite. Wild yam extract is a phytonutrient that blocks the formation of new adipocytes caused by estrogen in the subcutaneous fat layer of the skin. Niacin is a powerful vasodilator that increases circulation and detoxification where applied and Regu-SlimÂŽ is a patented formulation of guarana seed extract, caffeine, carnitine, and maltodextrin that has been clinically proven to drastically reduce adipose tissue.

Outlining a homecare regimen to clients with topical products containing active ingredients for skin tightening, along with a microneedling roller or a handheld LED device for use at home, will help them achieve better penetration of these products and aid in long-term skin toning and tightening results. Clients need to understand that connective tissue naturally begins to get looser due to the aging process of the collagen and elastic fibers. Advising clients on a

product regimen containing collagenbuilding ingredients, such as glycolic and lactic acids, retinol, and vitamin C, is a good idea. Retinol is probably one of the most important nutrients to topically apply to because it works as a powerful antioxidant for the skin, as well as really revs up the rate

Lyn Ross is a licensed master aesthetics instructor, accredited through the Georgia Board of Cosmetology with over 30Â years of experience in the field of professional aesthetics. A true medical spa pioneer, Ross has written numerous articles, co-authored textbooks, and appeared on radio and television shows, highlighting professional aesthetics. She is dedicated to sharing her passion, knowledge, and years of clinical aesthetic experience. Ross provides skin care professionals with clinical and medical treatment protocols, products, and the education that guarantees client results and spa business success.

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5

Common Skin Issues

that Challenge the Body and How to Treat Them

by Rhonda Allison

W

hen it comes to good skin care practices, most clients tend to stop at the neck, subjecting the body to subpar ingredients found in mass-marketed lotions.

Skin is the largest organ and is a reactive mechanism, so it makes sense that what we put into and on the body will most certainly impact its appearance. By treating the body with the same care, quality ingredients, and treatments as the face, is it possible to transform the skin to a more youthful, healthy state?

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It is possible! However, while many of the same ingredients may be used on the body as the face, the skin on the body experiences a different host of issues and in different ways than the skin on the face. Thus, the way in which people use those ingredients becomes important.

How can skin care professionals solve and effectively treat the biggest challenges that impact the body? There are numerous solutions – many of which professionals may already be using to treat the face, neck, and décolleté – but it first starts by understanding the most common issues that challenge the body and the root cause behind those issues.

COMMON BODY ISSUES

It may go without saying, but aging skin is one of the top concerns among clients when it comes to their body’s appearance. Beyond the appearance of aging, however, the body commonly experiences a host of other skin issues, including eczema, keratosis pilaris, cellulite dimpling, acne, and acne scarring. These conditions are among the most common issues clients struggle with and it is often detrimental to their self-esteem since the conditions tend to impact the overall appearance of the skin.

Helping clients overcome these challenges and return skin to optimal health requires the right mix of ingredients and a customized approach to skin care. In other words, skin care professionals should deliver the same quality of facial care to the rest of the body. The great news is that clients love treatment programs specifically designed for the body! Aside from the pampering effect, when they begin to see their skin restored to a healthy state, it positively impacts their self-esteem.

TURNING BACK THE HANDS OF TIME

There are two primary culprits of skin aging: intrinsic and extrinsic agers. Extrinsic agers are the external, more 60

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controllable factors, such as sun exposure, smoking, sleep, diet, stress, and lifestyle factors, each of which contribute to the presence of free radicals in the body. Intrinsic (internal) refers to the biological aging that occurs with the passing of time. It is the less controllable of the two factors as it is primarily due to genetic programming and physiological decline.

While much insight has been made into what causes cells to stop or slow the regeneration process, an effective way to reverse this process has not yet been discovered.

Adding to the challenge, genetic programming significantly impacts the degradation of skin cells.

Skin cells are amazing structures, but they are very sensitive. Cells have the ability to repair themselves, but as the body ages, the process slows and cells have trouble combating the numerous elements that threaten their integrity.

The damage occurs when oxidative stressors – like the sun, pollution, chronic stress, smoking, and free radicals – penetrate skin cells, break down collagen, and impact the DNA structure of the cell. Over time, as damage occurs, the cell is more likely to replicate and the damaged cells multiply.

DNA aging also impacts the production of collagen, which is the main component of connective tissue and is responsible for inhibiting the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and saggy, slack, and crepe-like skin. Unfortunately, production of this youth-preserving protein decreases with age. Signs of aging occur when the fibroblast cells that step in to repair damaged collagen fibers cannot complete their work – a product of aging cells.

Although people cannot stop or reverse their internal clock, they can slow intrinsic aging by focusing on reducing the exposure to extrinsic agers. Luckily, a great deal is known about extrinsic agers and how to stop the progression of their damaging effects.

The most common extrinsic factors include sun exposure, smoking, pollution, chronic stress, and poor sleeping, diet, and exercise habits, all of which are known producers of free radicals, increased inflammation, and glycation.

While free radicals play an important role in several biological processes and are created as an essential part of life, they are highly reactive. When they reach this state, they can cause unwanted side effects and become quite harmful to the skin and the body as a whole.

The Remedy

Supporting skin cells in healing, repairing, and maintaining healthy mitochondria is extremely important, particularly as people age. To do this, skin care professionals must address any issues that may be causing free radicals, inflammation, or glycation and combat them with antiinflammatory and antioxidant-rich ingredients, as well as ingredients that provide mitochondrial support. For supporting the body in healthy cell regeneration, turn to ingredients such as pyruvic acid, which supplies energy to the cells; algae extract, which protects the mitochondria of skin cells and increases cell turnover; CoQ10, which regenerates and assists in cell growth and contributes to the production of energy; vitamin C and L-ascorbic acid, which protect against photodamage, neutralize ROS, sup-

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When it comes to good skin care practices, most clients tend to stop at the neck, subjecting the body to subpar ingredients found in mass-marketed lotions.

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port wound-healing, and deliver antioxidant and collagen support; thermus thermophiles, which ferments to assist in ATP production, supports healthy oxygenation, and protects against environmental stressors; and glucosamine HCI (D), which provides anti-inflammatory and anti-glycation support. Other effective ingredients include glycine soja, which promotes collagen and elastin synthesis and is also an important antioxidant and matrix metalloprotease inhibitor; epidermal growth factors, which heal skin injuries and stimulate cell proliferation; omega 6 essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acid), which provide anti-inflammatory, skin-building benefits; and peptides, which activate tissue growth factor and collagen production.

To rejuvenate the skin, look for ingredients such as retinoids, resveratrol, tocopherols, and L-lactic acid. They may be incorporated into professional treatments and a homecare system.

SMOOTHING KERATOSIS PILARIS

Another common skin condition is keratosis pilaris, which appears as rough patches and small, red bumps typically found around hair follicles on the arms, thighs, cheeks, and buttocks. While harmless, painless, and non-contagious,

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it is a chronic skin condition that many clients desire to treat because of the appearance.

Keratosis pilaris results when follicles become clogged; while most cases clear up on their own, some persist for nearly a lifetime and there is no known cure. Luckily, there are ways to improve its appearance. For instance, exfoliation and hydration are key, particularly since keratosis pilaris tends to worsen in dry conditions. Additionally, overexposure to the sun may also stimulate the condition, so awareness of sun exposure and wearing a high-quality, mineralbased sunscreen daily is essential.

The Remedy

In the treatment room and with homecare, the goal is to stimulate cell turnover, keep the skin hydrated, and support regeneration. Ingredients to incorporate in both areas of treatment include L-lactic acid, which gently and effectively assists with cell turnover while providing hydration and regeneration, salicylic acid, which exfoliates and stimulates cell turnover and is also particularly effective in getting the outer layer of the skin to peel; and retinol and encapsulated retinaldehyde, which encourage tissue regeneration and strengthening. For more sensitive skin, use encapsulated retinaldehyde as it offers the same rejuvenating benefits of retinal without the irritation.

In the treatment room, peels and corrective treatments work well to treat keratosis pilaris. They may be performed

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on the thighs and arms, but are not recommended on the buttocks area. Enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids, like L-lactic acid or flower acids, work well with the body’s tougher skin to lift away deeper layers of dead cells. Following the acid or enzyme application, rebuild and nourish the skin with ingredients like growth factors, amino acids, and oxygenators, which stimulate respiration and circulation. If the peel is performed during the day, always finish with a mineral-based sunscreen.

For homecare regimens, suggest that clients use an acid-based topical nightly in order to clear up keratosis pilaris. Consistency, however, is imperative. To soothe and rebuild healthy cells, clients may apply a nurturing serum during the day. Look for ingredients like willow herb, cocoa butter, epidermal growth factors, and tocopherols to help maintain hydration, reduce inflammation, and nourish the skin. If a scrub is suggested, stress to the client that they should avoid over-scrubbing the area. Doing so will bring about irritation and induce inflammation.

HEALING THE EFFECTS OF ECZEMA

It is estimated that eczema, or atopic dermatitis, impacts more than 30 million Americans. This condition appears on the skin as an itchy, red rash. While it is not typically contained to a specific part of the body, most people tend to experience it on their elbows, neck, hands, or back

of the knees. Generally, skin impacted by eczema will be dry and sensitive and, in some escalated cases, can cause the skin to crack and become extremely uncomfortable.

Eczema is commonly confused with other conditions, such as psoriasis. When skin care professionals are unsure of a client’s exact condition, it is typically best to refer them to a dermatologist or physician before beginning treatment.

Although the causes of eczema are unknown, some physicians believe it may be inherited or linked to allergic

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diseases. Either way, there are triggers clients should be aware of, including certain soaps and detergents; extreme temperatures (hot or cold); certain foods, such as diary, eggs, and soy; and common allergens, like pollen and dust. Stress management is also key as it can cause certain cases to worsen.

The Remedy

For skin impacted by eczema, the primary goal is to heal, nourish, and hydrate the skin. Ingredients with antiinflammatory properties will help restore skin health and promote healing. Look for ingredients such as linoleic and oleic acids, which promote healing and provide lipids that are very close to the skin’s natural lipids in order to soothe discomfort and dryness while increasing hydration in the epidermis; arnica montana, which soothes chapped skin, speeds healing, and provides anti-inflammatory support; witch hazel, which provides a rich, antioxidant supply, as

well as astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties – it also soothes and heals problematic skin conditions and protects cells; and hyaluronic acid, which hydrates and prevents transepidermal water loss.

In the treatment room, professionals should take a gentle approach, being careful to avoid active correctives. Instead, opt for mild exfoliation and nourishing and healing the skin. To help reduce stress levels and further promote healing and detoxification, create a deeply relaxing, soothing environment.

Even more important than treatment, however, will be educating clients with eczema about proper care and prevention. Inform them about avoiding hot baths and showers; the importance of moisturizing daily, particularly after bathing; wearing softer, loose fabrics; and using a humidifier in dry or cold weather conditions. For homecare, a custom system comprising of omega 3 essential fatty acids, growth factors, and hydrocortisone compounds will be essential for caring for eczema-challenged skin. Healing ingredients applied daily will help relieve and keep eczema at bay. If a client’s eczema is widespread, it may be best to refer the client to their physician or naturopath.

REDUCING THE APPEARANCE OF ACNE SCARRING

Acne scarring is one of the more challenging issues to deal with in the treatment room simply because it appears on the skin in a variety of ways. Not only does it appear in varying degrees of severity, but it can also take on different forms in different skin.

Acne scars typically manifest in the form of depressed scars or pits, or they may take the shape of raised scars known as hypertrophic. Discoloration is often also a factor.

The key is to understand and properly identify the type of scarring presented so a customized treatment can be created.

This process starts by understanding the cause behind it.

Scars form when an acne breakout penetrates the skin deeply, damaging the tissue beneath. When the acne breakout clears, the body goes into repair mode, stimulating collagen production. If too little or too much is produced, a scar forms. If not enough collagen is present, the result is often a depressed scar. On the other hand, if there is too much collagen, a raised scar may result. Knowing the scar types will aid professionals in determining the best course of treatment.

Removing surface cells is key to allowing other nourishing and corrective ingredients and oxygen to penetrate the skin. Keep in mind, scar tissue is difficult to address and this fact is especially true of scar tissue on the body. While it is possible to reduce the appearance of a scar, it is a permanent mark and the damage will remain at the dermal layer.

Do not get discouraged if it never fully goes away.

The Remedy

Taking into consideration that damage will remain at the dermal layer, there are treatments and ingredients professionals can utilize to help soften the tissue, reduce rigidness, and improve the appearance at the surface level. Look for corrective topicals, such as alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, and retinol.

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Alpha hydroxy acids will penetrate the cells to stimulate cell regeneration by loosening the ceramides holding the cells together. Salicylic acid will support exfoliation and cellular regeneration. It is also particularly effective in stimulating the outer layer of the skin to peel, which makes it useful in treating psoriasis, calluses, and keratosis pilaris. Retinol encourages tissue regeneration and strengthening. It is also extremely beneficial in treating scar tissue as it works to “re-educate” damaged cells, speed cellular production, and improve circulation.

There are several modalities that may be utilized in the treatment room to smooth acne-scarred skin. Depending on the location of the scarring, body peels, microneedling, microdermabrasion, or a combination of modalities may be used.

Peels using higher-strength acid formulas, such as a tricholoacetic acid-alpha hydroxy acid combination, flower acids, and vitamin A with peptides, will create necessary exfoliation action while delivering repair and strengthening qualities.

Microdermabrasion is very effective in reducing scars because it removes cells from the stratum corneum, allowing other corrective and nourishing ingredients to better penetrate the skin. A mid-depth or deep treatment will work best.

Following microdermabrasion, a skin-strengthening peel will be essential as the skin needs to be rebuilt from the inside out.

Microneedling, particularly deeper microneedling procedures, works well to remodel scar tissue, but caution must be exercised. If pushed too deep, subcutaneous scarring may occur.

Prior to any corrective treatment, professionals should do their due diligence. Take extreme care to consider all factors that may impact the client’s skin, including ancestry, lifestyle, and health issues. As professionals are performing the treatment, work slowly and be aware of how the skin is reacting so that any issues can be caught before they escalate.

At home, clients will do well with epidermal growth factors, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and essential fatty acids. These ingredients will support the restoration, repair, and strengthening of their skin, especially following a corrective treatment.

Be sure to incorporate a mineral sunscreen to be worn daily and – for nighttime exfoliation – regenerating, corrective topicals, such as retinal or salicylic acid, may also be used.

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CONTOURING MINUS THE KNIFE

While cellulite does not present any serious danger or discomfort, it is an issue that most people are particularly sensitive about. Cellulite is the protrusion or cleaving of subcutaneous fat within fibrous connective tissue that displays skin dimpling; it tends to accumulate around the buttocks, thighs, and abdomen region.

Though fat is part of the equation, it is really only part of the story when it comes to cellulite. Fibrous connective tissue adheres skin to the muscle beneath and, as the body ages, this connective tissue contracts and stiffens, causing it to pull down or tighten the skin, which pushes the fat cells out against the skin; this reaction causes the dimply appearance.

Although there is no known cure for cellulite, a healthy lifestyle helps to prevent and, in some cases, correct it.

Professional treatment and the right homecare focused on increasing circulation, flushing toxins, and strengthening collagen may also be used to greatly improve its appearance.

The Remedy

To increase circulation, flush toxins, and strengthen collagen, use physical exfoliants such as pearl powder and bamboo to scrub away dead surface cells while stimulating circulation and enzymatic exfoliants, like L-lactic, glycolic, and L-malic acids to provide surface exfoliation and repair

tissue damage. Goji berry is another wonderful ingredient.

As a superfood and powerful antioxidant, it stimulates cell regrowth and repair while improving detoxification. Organic stem cells will further support antioxidant activity, skin strengthening, and the skin’s ability to resist oxidation.

In the treatment room, body peels are a great way to support clients in noninvasively diminishing the appearance of cellulite. For instance, a body peel formula containing Llactic, salicylic, and citric acids will soften skin cells, stimulate cell turnover, and deliver antioxidant support, which will help support a smooth, toned textured. Vitamin A peel formulas with peptides are another good option as they will regenerate and firm the skin.

Corrective treatments should be followed with rebuilding ingredients, like growth factors, peptides, antioxidants, and organic stem cells. A good homecare system will also be important in supporting the work skin care professionals are doing in the treatment room. Be sure to include a granular scrub to remove dead skin cells and give skin a polished glow. The scrub may be used as a dry rub prior to the shower. Also, incorporate an energizing formula of peptides to retexturize, awaken, stimulate circulation, and oxygenate the skin. Strengthen and rebuild the skin using ingredients like stem cells, growth factors, and peptides, which tone, reform, renew, and repair the skin. Finally, do not forget sun protection. A natural physical blocker, like zinc, will also deliver important vitamins and minerals to the skin.

ADDRESSING LIFESTYLE CHOICES WITH CLIENTS

For all of the aforementioned challenges, professionals may also want to talk to clients about lifestyle, as it will also contribute significantly to the health and vitality of their skin. Getting adequate sleep, taking measures 66

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to properly manage stress, and eating a healthy diet will support healthy skin cells across the body. Additionally, low-inflammatory ingredients, like omega 3 fatty acids and antioxidants, when incorporated into the diet, will also support healthy cell activity. Such ingredients might include vitamin A – carrots, kale, spinach, pumpkin, liver, and cantaloupe; vitamin C – camu camu, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, guava, and citrus; vitamin E – olive oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, oats, tomatoes, and carrots; bioflavonoids – citrus, berries, onions, tea, red wine, dark chocolate, and sea buckthorn; and polyphenols – berries, tea, dark chocolate, walnuts, peanuts, and pomegranates.

The single biggest contributor to skin aging is the sun.

Remind clients the best defense against aging is prevention.

It is best to limit ultraviolet exposure during intense daylight hours; use a mineral-based SPF of 18 at minimum and 30 at a minimum, daily; and, if planning to be in the sun for extended periods, wear a broad-brimmed hat and ultraviolet-protective clothing. Though sunlight is important – it produces a positive effect on the state of and is a source of vitamin D – clients must be careful not to overdo it.

Finally, in addressing these issues with clients, remember that it can be a particularly sensitive subject for some.

With regular check-ins and opportunities for clients to ask questions or discuss concerns, skin care professionals will be able to establish more rapport and trust and allow for a more natural dialogue to unfold.

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. Allison is also an author and an internationally-known speaker with more than 30 years of aesthetic experience. rhondaallison.com and ramethod.com

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by Linda Bertaut

T

he use of gemstones and color plays a major role in chakra alignment. Each color has its own frequency or vibration that can help to energize, stimulate, relax, or uplift the spirit. The seven colors of nature’s rainbow are associated with the seven colors of the chakra system. If a chakra is out of balance, a colorful gemstone can be used to restore balance.

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The first thing to do is select a gemstone collection. Polished stones are clean and the easiest to use. Crystals work well if the size and shape are considered. If they are too large, they become heavy; if they are too delicate, they are difficult to maintain.

Use larger crystals for decoration and smaller ones to place either on clients or around them on the treatment table. Ensure that the stones used are smooth, large, and flat so they do not roll off the client. Recommended stones are black tourmaline, red jasper, carnelian, citrine crystal, polished citrine, aventurine, rose quartz, blue calcite and quartz, sodalite, lapis, amethyst, and fluorite.

Review a chakra chart and include at least one stone for each chakra color. The fourth chakra represents two colors – pink and green. The professional should choose stones that resonate with them. Some stones will seem to stand out at first glance. These are perfect to add to the collection.

Look at a color wheel. Warm colors – including red, orange, and yellow – are supposed to be the most stimulating and energizing. Blues and purples are cool and considered to be the most calming and enlightening. The closer to red the color is, the more stimulating it is considered to 70

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be. The closer to blue, the more calming it should be. Yellow is energizing and is said help lift the spirits, while green, the color in the middle of the rainbow, represents balance and is considered the most healing.

Each color has an intensity range, meaning how bright or soft the color appears. The intensity of bright colors may generate more energy than soft colors. Adding white to any color (which produces a tint) may soften the effects of that color. Adding black (which produces a shade) may deepen the meaning. For example, aventurine is a soft, light green color. It encourages balance and equilibrium while softening the protective shell around the heart. Malachite, with its deep and rich green color, encourages depth of emotion and feeling.

Colors opposite each other on the color wheel are called complementary.

Mixing two complementary colors is said to balance the energy. Placing a complementary color on one’s chakra helps balance overactive energy that is present. Understanding these color associations helps skin care professionals make the best choices for clients.

Clear quartz represents all of the colors of the rainbow. Try this experiment. Select a quartz crystal and place it on a solid white background.

Shine a bright light into the crystal.

As the light is moved around, small rainbows appear in the inclusions of the stone. Because of this, clear quartz is like the wild card of stones.

It is believed to work on any chakra.

When in doubt, it is always safe to use both the polished and crystal versions of this stone.

As with any treatment, there are some contraindications to using color. Some stones tend to be more reactive than others.

For example, red stones such as red jasper may cause overstimulation and a physical reaction such as twitching. If a client is already somewhat bold and aggressive, red may accentuate this behavior.

Replace red at the first chakra with black tourmaline to absorb excess or negative energy. Brown and earth tone colored gemstones are believed to be great alternatives to restoring balance instead of red.

Another example is amethyst; its spiritual intensity may also cause reactions. If a client already likes and uses this stone, consider it safe to use in the treatment. If there are any uncertainties,

a good alternative may be fluorite with purple and green, because it strengthens the connection between the spirit and heart. Experiment until the right blend of colors and stones is found.

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE Before beginning the treatment, let the client know where each stone will be placed.

Wrap the client in a sheet and place a blanket over the torso, legs, and feet, if needed. For a more calming experience, dim the lights and play soothing music.

Make sure the collection of gemstones at hand includes: black tourmaline, carnelian, citrine, aventurine, rose quartz, apatite, sodalite, and fluorite.

Choose an essential oil with a calming scent and place a few drops on a cotton ball.

Ask the client to breathe in the scent of the essential oil three to four times.

Place all stones in a straight line. The first stone, black tourmaline,

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will be placed in the center of the pelvic area.

The second chakra, carnelian, should be placed one to two inches below the belly button.

Citrine, the third chakra, should be placed at the opening of the rib cage under the sternum.

Aventurine, or rose quartz, is the fourth chakra and should be placed near the heart.

The base of the throat should be where the fifth chakra, apatite or clear quartz, is placed.

Place the sixth chakra, sodalite, between the client’s eyebrows (commonly referred to as the third eye in Reiki and energy healing).

Fluorite or amethyst is the seventh chakra and should be touching the top of the client’s head. Lay the flat side against the head. If the client was wearing a towel, unwrap it and lay the flat side of the stone against the top of the client’s head and rewrap it.

Once the gemstones are placed on the body, begin the facial treatment removing the gemstone from the forehead or throat when it is time to apply product.

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Tools of the trade Trendsetters give insight on the tools they recommend for body treatments.

Founder of Bella Schneider Beauty Professional Skin Care

Bella Schneider

Lead aesthetician of Advance-Esthetic

Olha Maikina

President of Onyx Medical Inc.

Roger Machson

“CollaJam Plus Cream™ is great because it improves elasticity, tightens loose skin, and reduces wrinkles on the face and body in two treatments done 10 days apart. The skin’s reaction to the treatment is, basically, a reorganization of existing collagen and new collagen production. I would recommend this as a viable treatment for skin tightening because you can see results relatively quickly, without expensive equipment or down time. Clients will see a difference in the skin on the knees, elbows, décolleté, stomach, and upper arms in two treatments, tops.” onyxmedical.com

tools of the trade

“Zemits Lipoless has 3 modules which allow for treatment for all ages with different concerns: from body contouring, anti-cellulite, and/or weight loss (skin tightening). Cavitation RF combination will grant you amazing results. This unit goes up to 50W/cm2 as compared to the average 20 to 30W/cm2, and is FDA-registered. Love this machine not only for its functions and modern design, but its power, effectiveness, and easyto-use touch­ screen panel.

A sleek extraordinary unit to add to your practice!” advance-esthetic.us

"The Ballancer Compression Body System performs a thorough lymph massage and an acupressure treatment to successfully eliminate toxins from the body while the client experiences a deep state of relaxation. It offers several modalities and is used to fight cellulite, stimulate elasticity and collagen, and help the body recover from workouts by reducing lactate buildup. Great to couple with facials, body treatments, and serves as an add on to all cellulite reduction work. It is lucrative and simple to use, I recommend it to all aestheticians and spa professionals." bellaschneiderbeauty.com

President of PFB Vanish Inc.

Ottmar Stubler

“In today’s selfie-centered world, people care about their appearance more than ever, even me! I love applying the skini cream on a daily basis because it has so many benefits; it acts as my daily body moisturizer after the shower and prevents dehydration within skin, increases circulation, restores collagen, and has the slightest tingling sensation that is really stimulating. Now, from head to toe, my skin is smooth, even-toned, and hydrated!” pfbvanish.com

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Partying

Isn’t Just a Hobby – It’s a Business!

by Louis Silberman 74

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ne of the questions I am asked most frequently about my current business is, “what’s your secret to success?” People want to know what one thing, if there is just one thing, they can do to take their own business from ordinary to extraordinary. Of course, there are many things that go into making a business successful, but I typically respond to the question with a little joke: “I partied my way to the top.” It was not “partying” in the way most people think. I am going to let you in on my secret.

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Like many business owners, I have tried just about everything over the past decade when it comes to marketing. When I consider how and where I have spent my advertising dollars (including television spots; print advertisements; pay-per-click internet advertising, such as Google Ad Words; networking groups; and Groupon or Living Social deals), the biggest return on my investment has been, without a doubt, throwing parties at my spas and training schools. Even though the concept has been around for many years, I actually stumbled onto it for my own purposes by accident.

It all started several years ago, when my business was still in its fledgling stage. I was chatting with my best friend’s wife about her job as a Pampered Chef representative. I had some cursory knowledge about the company for which she worked and that she spent most of her working hours hosting cooking parties in other people’s homes. I had absolutely no idea that she was then making more than $100,000 a year in her position. Pampered Chef is the wildly successful in-home party business that sells cooking tools, cookbooks, and food products. Most people have either attended one (or several) of its parties or know someone who has. The concept of “parties for profit” is not anything new; however, the Pampered Chef company figured out a way to put a fresh, new spin on it to the tune of about $100 million in annual sales. People do not need to reinvent the wheel to be successful. It is not only okay to build on other companies’ great ideas – it is smart and efficient, too.

My friend’s wife’s success story really got me thinking about my own business. I was doing okay, but I wanted to excel far beyond that. I had a gut feeling that it was 76

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time for me to reconsider my business model. After doing some research, I discovered numerous examples of companies that were doing home parties and doing outstanding with their sales.

I began noticing a common theme among the companies that had achieved (or were in line to achieve) tremendous success: their parties focused on fun rather than sales. Do not get me wrong, companies do not end up with $500 million per year by providing nothing more than balloons and giggles, but selling for these companies is the natural result of the attendees’ experience at one of their parties. Selling is not, however, the sole focus.

It is what I like to call “by the way” selling. It is understated, but it works. I also believe that this type of subtle approach is an essential part of building long-term client relationships as opposed to grabbing just one quick sale.

“By the way” selling can be found in many forms.

For example, think about magazines such as People or InStyle. We know these types of magazines cannot survive without advertising dollars, yet, when people are perusing them, they are not thinking about that. People buy them for their eye-catching covers of attractive celebrities and their promise to “take us inside the new home of Taylor Swift.” While people are enjoying a peek at Taylor’s new house, they may or may not realize that the home furnishings advertisement on the very next page is directly targeting them to buy a couch and rug that look eerily similar to Taylor’s.

CREATING YOUR OWN PARTY CONCEPT

While in the process of reconsidering my business model, I realized that the party concept could be applied

to almost any type of business, whether it is productand/or service-based. Soon after, I began creating my own version, one that revolved around spa treatments. I thought about my own target audience, primarily professional women and/or stay-at-home mothers in their 30s and beyond, and where they were likely to spend their free time and disposable income. Like Pampered Chef, I sent out invitations in advance, highlighting what I planned to offer: free food and drinks, lots of fun, and chances to win spa-related prizes, such as free Botox and laser hair removal.

I quickly learned that an invitation, to what was basically a free girls’ night out, garnered plenty of enthusiasm and a fairly high response rate. But, what really seemed to be working in my favor was my audience’s interest in the products and services that my spa offered and my own level of enthusiasm. Anyone who knows me knows that I am nothing short of wildly passionate about my business, and that enthusiasm comes through when I am speaking to any audience.

I had my target audience. At my very first party, there were only about 10 people (I started out small until I figured out my formula), but I sold three $1,000 packages. I could not believe it! I made $3,000 that night and spent only about $200 in food, drinks, and supplies. I began holding parties approximately every other month, then every month, and then every two weeks! I was on a

roll and could not believe how easy the parties were or how much I (and everyone else) seemed to enjoy them.

FINDING NEW TARGET AUDIENCES

Suddenly, I ran out of people to invite! I had already gone through every friend, family member, and acquaintance that both I, and my entire staff, knew and now I was out of ideas. But rather than throwing in the towel, I called

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PRESENTATION IS EVERYTHING (BUT KEEP IT AFFORDABLE) My friends tease me that I could have been a caterer or wedding planner as I do have a knack for knowing how to put things together in an enticing way. Skin care professionals, however, do not need to go to the extreme; after all, the parties should be making money, not losing it. I am a big fan of warehouse clubs, such as Costco and Sam’s Club, because they do most of the work for me at a fraction of what I would have spent elsewhere. I purchase large platters of popular items, such as small sandwiches and cupcakes, individual appetizers, and chocolate-dipped strawberries, but throw away the cheap, plastic trays on which they are sold. Instead, I invested in a few nice-looking platters and my staff and I arrange everything on those. I add some flowers and greenery here and there and plenty of candles.

Be sure to turn up the lights before starting a demonstration so that all eyes are on the treatment.

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX

up my friend’s wife and asked how she handled the same situation. She explained that she had learned to ask each person at her parties if they had just one friend or acquaintance who had a different group of friends or who belonged to a different social group. More than that, she would offer that person a free product or service if they would invite that group to her next party. I tried this trick and it worked.

People are sometimes reluctant to bother their friends, unless there is a free anti-aging treatment in it for them.

GROWING YOUR PARTIES

While my first few parties were relatively small and intimate, allowing me to try out new things and figure out what worked, they quickly grew to something much bigger.

Today, regular parties are an integral part of my business model. I call them skin scenes and spa scenes and host them on a national level. I advertise via e-mail, social media, and through my website. Hundreds of attendees join me for great food, drinks, free gift cards (just for attending), prizes, and live demonstrations of cutting-edge medical spa treatments, including Botox, dermal fillers, CoolSculpting, microneedling, and more.

Skin care professionals can easily replicate what I am doing. Start small, figure out what works, and make it a goal to add just five or 10 additional people to each party. The parties will grow quickly!

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Just as professionals will need to continue finding new sources of invitees, they will also want to consider ways to keep the parties fresh. Pampered Chef does this very well by offering different types of parties – something to suit additional interests and/or wider audiences in other geographic areas. For example, in addition to its regular at-home demonstration parties, it offers the opportunity to hold online or in-person fundraiser parties, which are an excellent way to do something charitable for others while, at the same time, raising the level of awareness about the business within the community. Typically, a percentage of all sales goes to a chosen project or organization. Professionals could also ask attendees to bring a few canned goods to donate to a local homeless shelter and, by doing so, they will receive a small gift.

Consider other ways to pump up the party’s volume: perhaps the professional could have a holiday-related theme party or hire a local college student to act as the DJ. If the

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Start out by taking baby steps, then slowly build a party empire.

professional is an avid Pinterest follower and/or crafty type, there is seemingly no end to clever party ideas that can be replicated; just remember, keeping things simple when it comes to food and decorations tends to be, not only less expensive, but less time-consuming.

A FEW ADDITIONAL PARTY TIPS

Through trial and error, I have learned a great deal over the years about what works when it comes to having a party both fun and profitable. The invitation is important, so do not overlook it. Whether the professional advertises the event through e-mail, social media, or printed invitation (I would suggest all three), it should be colorful, enticing, and include attractive images of past demonstrations, with just a few bold words highlighting the event. Images speak volumes over highly detailed content. Be sure to include the date, time, something free

just for attending, information about what the professional is providing (free food, drinks, and prizes), location, the spa’s logo, contact information, and, most importantly, an easy way to respond (a “click here” link works best on electronic invitations).

Ask guests to help market the event by talking it up with their friends and co-workers. Skin care professionals want to create plenty of buzz well ahead of time and it is easy to achieve this when they offer guests a small incentive just to spread the word.

SUMMARY

Start out by taking baby steps, then slowly build a party empire. Remember, the hugely successful companies listed above started out small, too, building on the concept that people are happy to get in on the fun, especially when there is something valuable in it for them. Partying is not just for rock stars – it can be profitable, too!

Louis “The Laser Guy” Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical aesthetic training center founded a decade ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He is the author of “Make It Happen Online” and a motivational marketing speaker. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semi-finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014.

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Holiday Marketing How-Tos

by Jaclyn Strausser, L.M.E.

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oliday seasons are a great opportunity to revamp and redirect focuses onto certain treatments and products in order to drum up extra sales, as well as keep clients engaged. During the holiday seasons, more people are on the prowl, scouring retail business trying to find unique gifts to give to the ones they love. These special times of year are also times for spa owners to corner that market and offer the consumer what they have been looking for. Seasonal revamps and marketing shifts are also a great way to re-engage current clients into trying something new for themselves. Think of it as a way to get new clients, as well as a way to keep current clients engaged and interested, all while getting them to try services or buy products that they may have not previously been inclined to try or buy.

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EVENT IDEAS

 Mom’s Day Off – Focus on a bundle of services and products to offer.  Roses and Rosé – Have each service during this time come included with a glass of rosé and one long stem rose.  It Takes Two – Cater certain services around people who want couple’s treatments.  Kiss My Lips and Bat My Eyes – This package can include services that enhance the eye and lip areas.  Silver and Gold –Encourage everyone to dress in silver or gold and offer “silver and gold” spa packages that night only.  Twelve Days of Christmas – Highlight a new special each day or every couple of days during the 12-day period.  New You, New Year – Focus on getting clients ready for a makeover to jump-start their new year.  Free gift wrapping service – Offer free gift-wrapping on any retail purchase.  Fire and Ice Facial – A facial treatment that incorporates cooling and warmth at different times during the treatment.  Wish Lists – Allow clients to create a wish list that can then be e-mailed to their loved ones.  Christmas Tree of Savings – Decorate a Christmas tree and put ornaments on it that clients who purchase during this time can pick from and receive a special promotion or savings.  Holiday Gift Guide – Create a holiday gift guide for clients to see and use.  Client Appreciation Month – Create special discounts and savings once a year as a thank you to loyal clients.  Shop Local Event – Host a night at the spa and invite a few other local small businesses to attend. Invite clients and encourage those businesses to also invite their current clients. Set up different booths for each vendor throughout the space. This practice allows professionals to support the local economy, highlight their business, as well as gain some new clients in the process.

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Focusing on every special event and every holiday can feel like overload… because it is! This approach is not recommended. Not only is it too much on the spa and its staff, but clients will also become jaded and accustomed to this behavior and it makes these special times not so special. Special events and holidays usually come with some type of savings to the purchaser and this creates an urgency to buy; if the professional is having too many of these backto-back or in one year, it will do the exact opposite and no one will feel the need to buy during that particular time. Think about focusing on just a few special events a year and base them off the type of spa, as well as what professionals know their client demographic will gravitate towards.

Focus on traditional holidays, but also think about trying out and naming a different kind of event and holiday.

For example, if the professional has a spa that specializes in acne, they can focus on Acne Awareness Month as one of their big “holiday” focuses.

Spend this time highlighting the top acne treatment, as well as acne retail products. Offer a discount on these items at this time, as well as special incentives for referring a friend or family member. Do not be afraid to think outside the box and do not assume that a holiday has to be a

religious event or one that is marked on calendars every year. The key to successful event planning and execution is knowing what is going to work.

Have fun with it and make it unique.

At the same time, it is also okay to stick with the more traditional holiday planning route when it comes to planning a yearly marketing calendar.

Top-purchasing American holidays in the aesthetic and spa industry tend to be Christmas, Mother’s Day, and Valentine’s Day. Planning around the holidays can seem repetitive and daunting, but it does not have to be. Again,

think outside the box; what is offered during one holiday does not have to be repeated on the next. Figure out the purpose of each event and what the end goal is. Once professionals have these two things locked down, they can plan accordingly. Be sure to keep it streamlined and concise as to not confuse staff, as well as clients.

It goes without saying that gift cards are a tried and true tactic, especially on Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day when men tend to be the ones shopping. It is no secret that men like things fast, simple, and easy when it comes to shopping and picking out a gift. This is why they tend to gravitate more toward gift cards. Take it a step further and create signage at the front desk that lays out and highlights certain package offerings that could be incorporated into the gift card purchase. Entry level, mid-range, and high-end package offerings that the purchaser can pick from are recommended. Make the offerings different than what is currently carried on the spa menu and have it fit to the theme of the holiday in some type of way. Another great way to profit off of gift card sales that will translate into retail purchases is to offer the following: purchase a $100 gift card and get a $10 retail gift card, purchase a $150 gift card and get a $15 retail gift card, and purchase a $200 gift card and get a $20 retail gift card.

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There is no right or wrong way when it comes to bundling; it only comes down to figuring out which method is right for the spa.

Another focus should be on retail sales – consider purchasing kits from vendors. Many skin care lines come

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out with their own holiday kits during certain times of the year and they are, more often than not, at a savings to the

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professionals so that they can pass that down to their clients. Be sure to ask vendors for any special promotions going on during this time and take advantage of them. Kits are a great “graband-go� purchase that will then turn into a repurchase of separate items months down the line. Better yet, consider bundling kits into the purchase of

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certain spa packages. For example, for each spa offering on the holiday menu, tie into the cost of the service a two-tofour piece skin care kit for the client to be gifted with. Not only does this create more value to the client, but it does a few more things, as well. Bundling homecare kits into the initial purchase gets that recipient of the service started

on homecare, which is essential to overall good skin health, but it also means repurchases every couple of months.

Repurchasing every few months also means more touch points professionals have to spend with that client, leading to a longer-lasting relationship, as well as more opportunities to cross-sell and upsell on other services and products.

When bundling, the idea is that the homecare and the treatment is already bundled together to create one cost to the client. This makes selling retail and a service an easy no-brainer. It is easy for professionals and it is easy for the client. There are a few ways to do this.

First, professionals can take the exact retail cost of the products and add that to the value of the service; this will be the final cost to the client. The second option would be to offer some type of discount. Mark up the retail 30 percent instead of the traditional 50 percent so the client gets it at a discount. The third option is to just charge those retail items at cost; the professional will not make a profit, but they also will not

lose money. There is no right or wrong way when it comes to bundling; it only comes down to figuring out which method is right for the spa.

It is also wise for professionals to think about unique events to host during the year. These events can be tied

in with holiday events or used on their own during specific times of the year.

As always, having an online presence is crucial. Everyone is competing with major e-tailers because consumers like the ease of buying from the comfort of their own homes. Professionals should

update all special offerings on their website and social media pages. They should also consider adding the option for the purchase of online services, products, and gift cards through their website as it comes in handy during busy times of the year.

Jaclyn Strausser has been a licensed medical aesthetician since 2009 and has worked in Pennsylvania and Miami over the course of her career.

She has worked with various board certified plastic surgeons and medical doctors specializing in multifunctional cosmetic laser modalities, chemical peels, and skin health. Strausser’s background also includes being a senior account executive for SkinCeuticals, as well as previously being a national educator for the company. She works closely with members within the medical aesthetic industry to provide trainings and develop in-office skin care services and marketing in order to create a profitable and strategic integrated skin care program for each office. She believes that skin care and healthy lifestyles come full circle and that it is through knowledge and education that a difference can be made in the skin care industry.

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latest launches Learn more about these new professional products!

Bioelements Clients often complain about sagging, wrinkles, dull, rough, or tired skin … and the list goes on. Bioelements has developed two new retail solutions – Radiance Rescue and Collagen Rehab Facial Masks – and two new professional-use-only concentrations – Radiance Rescue Pro Concentrate and Collagen Rehab Pro Concentrate – that tackle the source of clients’ biggest concerns: the breakdown of collagen and the loss of radiance.

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Hug Your Skin Hug Your Skin introduces to the United States award-winning organic skin care Inlight. It is certified 100 percent organic. Handcrafted in the United Kingdom by a homeopathic doctor, these highly effective formulas from herbs and oils are not diluted by water. Inlight combines ancient alchemy and modern science techniques to maximize the energy and beauty of each ingredient. Years of research, scientific knowledge, and love for nature make Inlight one of a kind. It is packed in luxurious, biodegradable packaging. 941-350-0014 or hugyourskin.com

Lashologist Choice™ Lashologist Choice™ Barrier Cream is a unique product that helps shield and sooth the skin from irritants. Created in a FDA-approved laboratory, the Barrier Cream uses only the finest ingredients to both calm the skin from irritation, inflammation, and reactions, as well as prevent them from even occurring. This amazing cream works by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Lashologist Choice Barrier Cream has unlimited application. 561-358-5999 or lashologistchoice.com

Waxxxpress The Perfect Storm Beaded Film Wax by Waxxxpress removes fine and coarse hairs in a single application by combining the benefits of a hard wax and a strip wax in one. This wax is ideal for all areas of the body including legs, underarms, back and chest, whilst also being gentle enough to use on the face and intimate areas. The quickrelease formula contains a unique resin which cools rapidly upon application, releasing from the skin upon removal. us.waxxxpress.com

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latest launches

Skin Script Retinaldehyde Serum is the ultimate anti-aging serum. It is used in the evening for cell repair and health. This serum addresses oxidative stress and lipid peroxidation with vitamins A (retinaldehyde) and B3 (niacinamide) which condition the cell membrane encouraging cellular respiration. This allows nutrition to flow into the cell and helps cellular waste escape. The mitochondria (cell energy source) is treated for DNA repair, in essence, treating for lipofuscin and solar lentigines. This new product will appear in the serum category. Retinaldehyde is formulated for all skin types in need of rejuvenation and anti-aging care and is gentle enough for even sensitive skin. 480-543-1121 or skinscriptrx.com

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Body Detoxification

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by Lina Kennedy

he process of detoxification can come in numerous forms, but the underlying goal is to rid the body of toxins to improve its natural processes. Think of the word “toxin” as an all-encompassing term for any substance that impacts a person’s health and body in a negative way.

People are constantly breathing in pollutants or ingesting synthetic ingredients that are harmful to their bodies. The following 10 factors should be kept in mind when helping a client with body detoxification or if the client is simply curious.

10 things about...

The human body comes equipped with its own detoxification systems and is in a constant stage of detoxification. The most important organs in this process include the liver, kidneys, lungs, large intestine, and skin. Together, these organs make up the body’s excretory system and are constantly working to flush the body of toxins.

Performing a body detoxification can help rest, recharge, and reboot these organs to make sure they are working efficiently.

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10 things about...

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Even though the body naturally detoxifies itself, it can use some help from time to time. Common signs that a client might want to try a body detoxification treatment include unexplained fatigue, bloating, mental confusion, and irritated skin. Skin care professionals see clients’ skin on a fairly-regular basis. If changes are noticeable in the client’s skin, such as irritability, redness, dullness, or increased breakouts, professionals should talk to the client about potential body detoxification options.

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Drinking water is crucial for a good body detoxification treatment. One of the first questions to ask when it comes to body detoxifying is whether the body is getting a sufficient amount of water. Not only will it help keep clients well hydrated, but it also helps their organs flush out toxins. The more they drink, the better their body will be at flushing toxins out.

When it comes to the diet during a body detoxification treatment, it is just as much about what the client eats as it is about what is not eaten. There are plenty of superfoods out there that are great for promoting body detoxification. While several healthy body detoxifying diets exist, always suggest that clients consult a doctor before making drastic changes to their diet.

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Whether the client is using a mud mask or getting a full-body treatment, the purifying and detoxifying properties of mud make it a great tool for body detoxification. By incorporating either of these treatments once or twice a week, the body is given an extra dose of help in flushing out toxins. If professionals notice that a client may benefit from a body detoxification, they should recommend a body mud wrap or facial mask.

Getting rid of dead skin cells is an excellent way to help promote healthy skin and eliminate toxins that may be sitting on the surface of the skin. While exfoliating in the shower is an easy way to get exfoliation out of the way, other recommended options are dry brushing and salt scrubs for the body and professional exfoliation treatments for the face. The great thing about exfoliation is that not only will it help get rid of dead skin cell build up, but the motion of exfoliation can also stimulate blood flow to encourage the renewal of cells for healthier skin.

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A massage might not be something a lot of people think about, but a professional massage can be an added benefit when going through body detoxification. Most of the time, a professional massage focuses on taking away pain in areas such as the neck, shoulders, and back. These areas often have tense, tight muscles that can affect blood circulation. Additionally, these are common areas for toxins to build up. By getting a massage that focuses on these areas, clients are not only releasing toxins, but also improving blood flow.

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Exercise is not just for losing weight or staying in shape.

Whenever a person exercises, they increase blood circulation to important organs, which helps to push toxins out. Regularly exercising will not only help to keep the body properly detoxified, but will also help keep it in good health.

There are many ways to go about body detoxification, but think of the process as more of a lifestyle change than simply a short-term fix. Talking with clients about the importance of ongoing treatments, such as exfoliation, mud treatments, and massages for body detoxification, can not only help educate clients on the topic, but also leave them with the feeling that the professional truly cares about their body and health.

Body detoxification does not have to be hard or complicated. All it takes is time and dedication to truly focus on what the body needs.

Lina Kennedy is a chief pioneer, collecting many feathers in her cap. An expert on professional sugaring, Kennedy regularly writes articles for industry magazines in North America and Europe. As president of Alexandria Professional, one of her personal goals is to ensure that each professional trained in the art of body sugaring learns and understands the exceptional results that they and their clients can achieve through The Kennedy Theory™ for sugaring and The Kennedy Technique Theory™.

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People do not always consider the negative impacts that stress can have on their body and health. Stress affects the body in many ways and can throw normal functions off balance, making stress management an important aspect of body detoxification treatments. Clients should try things that will help keep them calm, such as meditation or massages; they can also try combating stress with exercise.

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As mentioned previously, the skin plays an important role in how the body detoxifies itself. The main way it accomplishes this goal is through perspiration. Whenever people sweat, their bodies are also pushing out toxins. Visiting the sauna once a week can be an easy way to get extra detoxification.

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weet potatoes are a popular health food worldwide because they are good sources of vitamins C and D, iron, and magnesium. Furthermore, they do not cause blood sugar to spike, despite their sweet taste. Sweet potatoes provide a steady source of protein that does not cause crashes or weight gain. Skin care professionals can offer them to clients as baked or dried chips.

Lyn Ross says, “Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is found in fermented apple cider, wine, grain, malt, rice, and potato mashes and is known as an ethanoic acid, an organic chemical compound. It coagulates stratum corneum proteins, causing a mild sloughing of photodamaged epidermal cell layers to improve fine surface wrinkles, superficial blemishes, and pigment problems.”

Reference Schoffro Cook, M. (n.d.). 9 Health Benefits of Sweet Potatoes.

To read more, check out Lyn Ross’ article, “Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance,” at DERMASCOPE.com/sweetpotato.

November is National Sweet Potato Month!

Top 6 Oils to Use in Skin Care: Part 6

by Peter Friis, CEO of ESSIO Shower

TEA TREE ESSENTIAL OIL Tea tree oil has numerous amazing uses and benefits and is considered a skin care must-have! This oil is beneficial for both skin and hair and is a powerful agent for healing and preventing infections and bacterial growth. It actually has so many antibacterial and

antifungal properties that the Australian army requires it to be put in their soldiers’ first aid kits!

Tea tree oil is great for the health of the hands, feet, and nails; it can treat athlete’s foot and nail fungus with ease. If clients are plagued by skin infections, like ringworms, tea tree oil can be used as a treatment.

It is also effective for other skin and hair annoyances, like lice, warts, cold sores, and boils. If clients are feeling malodorous, tea tree oil can help to freshen them up. This amazing oil can eliminate bad breath, foot odor, and can even be used as a natural deodorant.

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t seems like everyone is currently obsessing over essential oils and aromatherapy. With their proven skin care benefits, incorporating them into clients’ beauty regimen seems like a no-brainer! Mother nature is the best resource for effective solutions to skin care needs.

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The Powerful Benefits of Tea Tree

by Lindsay Miller with Lycon Cosmetics

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he powerful healing benefits of tea tree date back to the 18th century, when British sailors landed on the southeast shores of Australia and discovered massive groves of trees thick with sticky, aromatic leaves. The leaves of these trees, which was later named the Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree), had been used for many years to treat cuts and wounds.

Tea tree oil is derived from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant, which is native to southeast Queensland and New South Wales in Australia; it has been widely used in Australia for many decades as a treatment for viruses, bacteria, and fungi. Today the popularity of tea tree oil has increased due to its well- known benefits, including its powerful antiseptic properties and healing ability. It is widely used in a range of products throughout the pharmaceutical, therapeutic, cosmetic, veterinary, industrial, and household product industries.

Tea tree is present in many popular household products, such as cleaning and cosmetic products (face washes, shampoos, massage oils, and skin and nail creams) as a result of its many benefits. Even some laundry detergents contain tea tree! The topical benefits of tea tree include antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, which are very effec-

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tive when treating skin conditions such as acne, bacterial infections, chickenpox, fungal infections, earaches, dry cuticles, and psoriasis. Tea tree is a popular replacement of conventional medications as it is extremely effective and does not have the adverse side effects that many medications might. When applied to the skin, tea tree has powerful antioxidant properties that can significantly improve the appearance of blemishes and scars. It can also provide relief from cough, cold, bronchitis, and congestion by being applied it to the chest area and inhaled while sleeping. It is important, however,

to never ingest tea tree oil; it should only be used as a topical agent.

There are also many other household uses for tea tree, including deodorizing, removing mold, cleaning, repelling insects, and freshening laundry.

When found in deodorants, it can act as a powerful deodorizing agent and eliminates not only the smell of body odor, but also the bacteria and toxins that can increase its potency. Tea tree can also be very effective against insects by acting as a strong repellent and insect killer.

When tea tree is used in cosmetics, such as in post-waxing care products, it helps to soothe the skin, provide an antibacterial component, and enhance the healing of the area that has been waxed.

It is very gentle on the skin and will not cause burning or irritation. Clients very rarely have an allergy to tea tree, which could cause an adverse reaction. It is important to always consult with clients prior to applying products to their skin.

Tea tree continues to grow in its popularity and is a proven “super hero� essential oil. Its use in pre- and post-treatment products offer powerful healing and antiseptic results. Educating clients on the benefits of tea tree for use at home and in treatments will prove beneficial to both clients and skin care professionals.

SURVEY We recently asked skin care professionals on DERMASCOPE.com to tell us the total square footage of their spas. Here are the results, according to those that responded:

50 %

Less than 1,000 33.3 % 16.7 %

1,001 to 2,000 2,001 or more

Share your thoughts on our most recent online survey now!

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Healthy Liver, Clear Skin

by Samantha Dench, L.E., owner of Skin Deep and author of “Skin Deep: Demystifying Skin Care Solutions to Achieve Healthy, Glowing Skin”

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Professionals can refer a naturopathic or functional medicine doctor to help clients improve their diets and lifestyles and to assess any medications. Professionals can also suggest that clients visit a dietitian to address any issues with gluten, dairy, or sugar.

Skin care professionals should check their state board for the requirements under the scope of their license as far as making dietary suggestions. They can also make suggestions to eat a plant-based food at every meal, lean protein, healthy fats, and drink lemon water throughout the day. Clients can also be guided to eliminate caffeine, alcohol, and sugar. Most importantly, professionals need to create a plan that works for the client. Partnering with a naturopathic or functional medicine doctor can really help clients feel better and improve their lifestyle and skin.

It is important for professionals to educate themselves and find the right sources of information. Partner up with a naturopathic or functional medicine doctor and find trusted resources to pass along to clients. Not only will the professional stand out as treating clients outside the box, but they will also gain a new set of knowledge to help them better serve their clients.

References 1 Liver Function: Abnormal, Disease, Tests, Symptoms & Improve. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.medicinenet.com/liver_anatomy_and_function/article.htm2 2 Posh Beauty Blog – Hyperpigmentation – How to Prevent and Treat Dark Spots — Posh Beauty Blog. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.poshbeautyblog.com/skincare/2014/6/16/ hyperpigmentation-dark-spots

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kin care professionals are starting to understand that, in order to transform a client’s skin, they need to start looking inside the body. They understand that lifestyle choices greatly affect treatment of acne, rosacea, and melasma; however, they do not usually think of liver damage when treating the skin. Factors such as medication, hormonal shifts during pregnancy, menopause, birth control pills, diet, and stress affect the liver.

“The liver is one of the vital organs of the body, responsible for hundreds of chemical actions that the body needs to survive. It is also a gland because it secretes chemicals that are used by other parts of the body.”1 The liver is a crucial organ and is as important as the gut. Articles are popping up all over the internet about gut health and skin, autoimmune disease, and other health problems. Liver health is also important for proper functioning.

Taking medications or birth control pills and becoming pregnant results in inflammation of the liver and can be a cause of melasma, due to the surge in hormones. Skin care professionals work to reduce surface inflammation, which is important during facials and in homecare regimens. Professionals should also be more thorough during client consultations and ask specific questions about medications and birth control. If melasma is present, working on the outside to hide the problem is not the only solution; the source of the problem needs to be found.

Dr. Ben Johnson, founder of Osmosis Skin Care says, “Hyperpigmentation comes from internal sources and can be prevented by avoiding birth control pills, liver damaging medicines, and pregnancy after 30. All of these events can lead to chronic liver damage, which shows up on the skin as inflammation covered by hyperpigmentation.”2 If there is damage caused to the liver and professionals are able to help clients feel better, the client’s skin clears and they become clients for life.

How can professionals work with clients and stay within the scope of their license? This question is tricky as most states do not allow internal wellness to be part of aesthetic practices. Professionals can make lifestyle recommendations and offer suggestions because clients are coming to them to solve their skin problems. Women should avoid birth control pills, if possible.

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Spa Highlights

Spa Django

I'm a greater believer in luck, and I find the harder I work the more I have of it.

Thomas Jefferson

?

Did You Know

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amed after the famed gypsy-jazz guitarist, Django Reinhardt, Spa Django provides a peaceful and pampering experience at Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort & Spa. With its unique location right outside Austin, Spa Django reflects a luxury wilderness retreat, featuring 18 treatment rooms.

The success of Spa Django is directly correlated to its talented providers and staff, who are passionate about gaining knowledge, honing their talents, and learning new techniques within the industry. The spa’s highlytrained and tenured team is dedicated to serving its guests with compassion and care while helping them to cap-

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ture their Lost Pines moment every time they visit.

Spa Django’s dedication to providing care also translates into its relationships with premier partners and vendors, such as HydroPeptide. Spa Django is providing a signature HydroPeptide Rejuvenating Body Ritual, which includes a full-body exfoliation and moisturizer application using featured HydroPeptide products. The treatment utilizes HydroPeptide’s unique technology, which works on a cellular level to lift and tone, resulting in glowing, youthful skin. Guests have the option to enhance their treatment with a 30 minute relaxation massage at an additional cost. $134 for 60 minutes.

Cellulite is more common in women than men. In women, skin collagen is set in parallel rows, a pattern that gives itself to the compa­rtmentalization of fat, which make cellulite visible.

Men’s collagen is arranged in an X, which creates small fat pockets that do not allow for much dimpling.

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One Step Closer to the Holy Grail of Acne Care

T

Jeanine B. Downie, M.D., director of image Dermatology P.C.

anti-inflammatory properties and a lower resistance rate than other antibiotics. By combining the efficacy of an antibiotic, the benefits of targeted application through topical delivery, and by minimizing the side effects associated with both, this topical gel promises to be a new safe and effective option for the millions of people with moderate-to-severe acne.

This gel also works. Research showed the two percent minocycline formulation reduced the number of inflammatory lesions in acne patients by 59 percent (versus 44 percent for the vehicle), with no serious drug-related adverse side effects experienced.

Additionally, findings suggest it may also lessen the severity of lesions.

The phase 2b study measured reduc-

tion in a five point investigator's global assessment (IGA) scale and among 25 percent of the subjects treated with BPX-01, two percent showed at least a two-grade improvement and an IGA of clear or almost clear.

BPX-01 promises to be at least as effective in reducing acne lesions as the most effective topical products currently available on the market, but without their side effects. Furthermore, the drug holds the promise of being a complete alternative to oral antibiotics. Research found no traceable levels of minocycline in patients’ plasma, an enormous advantage over oral minocycline.

BioPharmX expects to launch phase three clinical trials for BPX-01 soon, so no product will be available commercially for at least another two years.

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he United States is experiencing an acne epidemic. Up to 95 percent of adolescents suffer from the condition and more than 50 percent of people over the age of 25 still deal with some degree of acne. It is the nation’s most common skin condition.

Despite the widespread prevalence, the standard of care for acne has not changed much in 40 years. Many overthe-counter and prescription options exist for moderate-to-severe acne. Dermatologists prescribe alternating cycles of an oral antibiotic, like tetracycline, doxycycline, and minocycline, that target P. acnes, the bacteria that causes acne, and a topical treatment that contains benzoyl peroxide or retinoids.

This combination treatment offers good results for some, but there is a growing need for safer, more effective strategies. Oral antibiotics often bring side effects, like dizziness, nausea, and diarrhea. Because of prolonged use, they could lead to antibiotic resistance.

Topical treatments are typically less effective and have other side effects, including skin irritation and flaking.

Acne patients may soon have another option, which some doctors call the “holy grail” of acne care: a truly safe and effective topical therapy. A phase 2b clinical trial studied a promising topical gel formulation of the antibiotic minocycline (BPX-01 by BioPharmX Corporation). It formulates the leading acne antibiotic, minocycline, into a unique, hydrophilic topical gel.

The gel is non-oily and non-staining and leaves no residue. It has demonstrated high penetration and targeted delivery of minocycline directly through the skin at the site where acne develops. It has both antibacterial and

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How to Successfully CrossPromote Team Bookings

by Sharlean Windus, L.E., reiki practitioner at Classique Queen Anne Spa

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ross-promotion within the spa’s team is one of the best methods to increase clientele and ensure optimum retention rates. Along with training, superior skill sets, and passion, team members should possess excellent customer service skills to enhance the client's experience. This point is where team booking is critical. If staff adapts this mentality, success is guaranteed for everyone.

MATCHING NEW CLIENTS CORRECTLY

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Professionals often act possessively over a client or behave awkwardly when a client receives a service from another staff member. This type of behavior only makes the client feel embarrassed to have a service in the spa. Professionals want clients to leave satisfied, balanced, and eager to return. It is important to match clients with the correct aesthetician. When a spa is attentive to this critical match-making detail, clients return, tell their friends, and write reviews about experiences that exceeded their expectations.

Everyone on the team will get booking more quickly because everyone is working for each other!

by all the same products and techniques? That aesthetician will have a much higher retention rate when they return. At times, a client might decide to stay with the new professional they saw. Remember, that is okay because everyone at the spa is a team and the team’s job is to allow the client to enjoy the services at the spa without feeling guilty. It also opens the professional’s schedule to attract the right clients who they have the best chemistry with and, when that happens, clients buy more, tip more, and refer more. In this case, everyone wins.

PROMOTE TEAM MEMBERS Promote aestheticians that work in other departments. All staff members should receive treatments with the other professionals so they can speak from genuine experience about their style and specialties. When a client asks about a different type of treatment, such as a massage, the professional can refer them to the best fit, ensuring they are satisfied. If everyone on the team works for each other and thinks about the team as a whole, clients will sense that support and will want to come back.

IT STARTS WITH THE FIRST PHONE CALL OR INITIAL BOOKING

SUCCESS FORMULA: ADVANCED EDUCATION, CONFIDENCE, AND CONNECTION

Determining the best aesthetician for clients happens during the initial phone call or reservation. It is imperative that the staff member handling the phone appointments or in-house booking connects with clients by noticing their demeanor, tone of voice, speed of speech, and questions about the booking. If someone seems energetic or upbeat, try pairing them with the staff member most like that. If a client seems soft spoken or quiet, pair them with a more relaxing staff member. There are also times when a client requests a waxing and wants speed and efficiency. They might ask how long a therapist has worked at the spa and experience level. Do not book them with the newest person or someone with weaker waxing skills. It is these little touches that increase a client’s comfort and all but guarantee their return.

Remember, the keys to success are being aware, seizing opportunities for connection, and having a supportive team. It is so important that professionals build their skill set with ongoing, advanced education and feed their profession continuously so they can feel, with unwavering confidence, that they are the best at what they do. The reality of this industry is that a client can get a wax, massage, or facial anywhere. What they are looking for is a connection and someone who can meet their needs and exceed their expectations. Tuning into this need will do that and ensure the spa is prosperous and successful.

PAIR CLIENTS WHEN ON VACATION OR LEAVE When an aesthetician goes on vacation, maternity leave, or is ill, it is an opportunity to assign the client to another professional. Start the process of notifying clients on their first visit that the spa has an experienced team to assist in taking care of all of their needs. Clients will know they can feel comfortable seeing others, especially if their professional is unavailable during their appointment time. Clients need to feel supported by the spa. They still need facials, waxing, or massages while the aesthetician is away and they should not be expected to wait. While there is the rare client who is willing to wait, chances are, the rest will find another aesthetician. Why not have those clients in the spa feel supported

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Siliconized Pullulan Film-former Developed for Long-wear Lip Formulations

Dos and Don’ts:

Extractions

Do: Wear gloves. When dealing with bodily fluids, it is important to be properly protected.

The use of gloves will also help to prevent the spread of bacteria from the professional’s hands to the client’s face.

S

cluding cosmetics, such as: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blush, and pencils; skin lotions and creams; sun care products, such as lotions, creams, and self-tanners; and anti-aging products.

The patented TSPL-30-ID silicone film former has excellent resistance to water and oil-offering formulators, simultaneous properties engineered to achieve anti-transfer benefits for long-wear lip applications, comfort, and a non-tacky feel without compromising the adhesion properties. Siliconization of the pullulan polymer renders the film former highly permeable to moisture and oxygen, which is believed to enhance skin health and comfort. It provides a tough but flexible, film with low tackiness.

While uniquely suited for the growing lipstick segment, the product’s multi-faceted properties deliver essential stability, functionality, and sensory benefits across a myriad of personal care applications in-

TSPL-30-ID KEY PRODUCT FEATURES

This product forms a tough film with high strength; provides a wet feeling and low tackiness; offers flexible film while retaining hardness; and provides outstanding oil repellency, which contributes to long-lasting effect.

The silicone modification of TSPL30-ID enhances the pullulan polymer with excellent water repellency and oil repellency, which are the key elements for achieving anti-transfer benefits for long-wear lip applications.

Silicone moiety further modifies the film flexibility for comfort and a nontacky feel without compromising the adhesion properties.

Don't: Do too many extractions at once. While it is great for the skin and an important part of clearing follicles, too many extractions at once can be traumatic for the skin. Furthermore, performing too many at one time can be very painful for some clients.

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hin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. has recently premiered its advanced, multi-functional TSPL-30-ID siliconized pullulan film former in isododecane.

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Will drinking water

flush toxins from the body and improve oily and acne prone skin?

by Beth Kenerson, managing director and aesthetician at Success Lab™

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ater is a powerful ally to Earth, communities, human bodies, and the mind. Its ability to fully hydrate skin, plump skin significantly from the inside, and change the behavior of genetic skin types, however, is a shadowy topic: scientific evidence does not support the claims. Water’s journey from fancy bottles to physiological application is slightly more complicated than “flushes toxins from the skin.”

HOW WATER WORKS IN THE HUMAN BODY A person drinks a copious amount of water.

Their entire body would be craving a flush of clear, additive-free fluid and respond positively. Will drinking water and only water halt acne or excessively oily skin its tracks? No. TRUE OR FALSE

ANSWER

The skin is largely responsible for processing and eliminating systemic toxins, a process best fueled by drinking lots of water.

False. Give the liver, kidneys, intestines, and lymph the credit they deserve. Although skin is the largest organ, it has not been tasked with the body’s most important jobs. The body’s systemic toxin management systems work in tandem.

Bulk waste is removed via the lymph system, while smaller waste products are exhaled or exit via the liver. Postliver bile production moves through the digestive tract and/or kidneys for final clearance.

Pores are clogged with toxins that are waiting to be flushed away via just the right amount of water.

False. Water is not entering the body and immediately coursing through the pores with the intent of cleaning house. It helps, no question, but skin is not water’s first, second or even third destination. Keep in mind, miraculous as water is, it cannot fully flush a trigger from the body. An acne trigger, for example, needs to be eliminated, not “washed away.”

Processed food, excess sugar, and extreme stress elimination have a positive, defensive effect on the body’s hormone triggers, which play a role in excess oil production and abnormal adrenal function.

True. Nothing is easy or all-encompassing, but people can make tremendous efforts to avoid obvious toxins and calm what becomes toxic inflammation. Such effort include taking probiotics, engaging in moderate exercise, consuming organic produce, and identifying the source of disorders. People should, as much as possible, get ahead of and diffuse the toxins they face daily.

The water passes through the esophagus and pyloric sphincter, which is connected to the stomach.

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Water absorption is not dictated by digestion, so it passes to the renal system via diffusion and osmosis as it is gradually filtered by downward pressure. Once it reaches the kidneys, useful nutrients take their leave and waste moves to the renal pelvis, where it awaits bodily expulsion.

The critical nutrient pit stops: the brain, organs, systemic temperature control, digestion efficiency, and cell hydration.

The skin’s internally generated hydration benefit comes in very close to last.

Toxic beauty fearmongering is big business – entire beauty sub-industries are built on the foundation of fear, toxicity, and the solutions promised to rid the body of toxins. Those solutions might be great if everyone was laden with vicious toxins just waiting to be expelled through their pores. That description may sound dramatic, but every day there are new promises that simply drinking large amounts of water (perhaps infused with lemon or a particular compounded mineral) will improve oily and acneprone skin; these claims are simply not true. Will clients see a difference in their skin clarity if they previously only drank diet soda all day and then switched to water and only water? Of course!

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scope this Oily skin is a genetic skin type. People arrive with it and, barring a physiological change triggered by disease or medication, they will leave with it. It may not be quite as oily at 71 as it was at 17, but it will always produce more oil than a genetically dry person’s skin does. Oily skin is not a curse – it has significant benefits, including delaying signs of genetic age.

Acne skin is, in large part, genetic. The odds are that clients with acneic skin will only perfect the thorough management of it throughout their life.

BALANCING, NOURISHING, AND OPTIMIZING OILY AND ACNEIC SKIN Tactic

How it helps

Increasing omega Linoleic acid is a normal, necessary fatty acid intake component of healthy sebum, helping optimize keratinization of the follicular epithelium.

Increasing healthy Skin that is stripped by drying prodskin function with ucts strives to compensate for lipid acne-safe cerami- deprivation. des and cholesterol Avoiding the dehy- Non-comedogenic hydration is critidration of skin cal to helping skin help itself.

Protecting the barri- Work with skin rather than raging er against trans-epi- against it with imbalanced acids, scrubs, and astringents. When skin dermal water loss is not tasked with putting out the fire a damaged barrier ignites, its efforts can be redirected to healing.

by Catherine Atzen, MBA, CIDESCO, product developer for ATZEN Superior to Organic® Skin Care

Most women get cellulite.

A person can be skinny and still have cellulite.

Lack of regular exercise and proper nutrition and hormone changes exacerbate cellulite.

Daily use of topical creams, exercise, and eating natural, non-processed food works to alleviate cellulite.

Exercise stimulates the cleansing process; a toxic body creates cellulite.

Mechanical or manual lymphatic drainage massage corrects cellulite if creams, exercise, and nutrition are not enough.

Cellulite can be broken down into t wo stages, increasing in severit y:  Soft cellulite: Blood and lymph vessels deteriorate and fluid and toxins accumulate.  “Cottage cheese” or “orange peel” appears: fibrous bands wrap around fat cells.  Hard cellulite: collagen and elastin break down and fibrous bands wrap around clusters of fat cells. Painful cellulite forms and the skin feels cold and may bruise easily. Poor circulation may affect health.

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It can be easy for skin care professionals to use “drink more water” as an auto response to skin distress. While drinking water is important, what is even more critical is the mastery of analysis, ingredients, and treatments that professionals held responsible for. Clients should drink more water, but that should be followed immediately by delivering the practical, hands-on treatments and product expertise that clients expect.

Cellulite

Slimming wraps touted for eliminating inches in mere hours may dehydrate cells, but do not eliminate cellulite.

Look for creams with several active ingredients that focus on all causes of cellulite.

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Knowing Which Corrective Serum or Treatment to Recommend: Vitamin C, Peptides, or Retinoids?

Sara Fulton, co-founder and president of Vivant Skin Care

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hen clients seek professional skin care, they also expect comprehensive infor­ mation on their skin condition and advice on how to maintain healthy skin, including product recommendations. Making the best recommendations tailored to their specific needs will not only improve their skin condition, but also bolster confidence in the professional’s technical knowledge and, ultimately, keep them coming back. Here is a guide to help professionals understand the differences between some of the most common corrective ingredients.

VITAMIN C Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that is used in non-prescription topical skin care to treat photodamaged skin, promote collagen formation, and slow collagen degradation. Prolonged use of vitamin C products has demonstrated the ability to rejuvenate skin and provide a variety of health benefits without discriminating among skin types. While it is not a replacement for sunscreen, its antioxidant properties provide it incredible

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potency to repair and scavenge free radicals, helping to prevent and treat ultraviolet-induced photodamage.1 Vitamin C also acts as a natural moisturizer and can incur wound-healing features by promoting keratinocyte differentiation, stimulating the formation of the epidermal barrier, and re-establishing the stratum corneum.2 Mainly, vitamin C has been attributed to improving discoloration and brightening skin, effectively reducing fine lines and wrinkles by inhibiting tyrosinase – an enzyme attributed to producing pigment in the skin.2 Dissenting claims have questioned the efficiency of vitamin C penetration. However, even at the epidermal level, it can, if formulated correctly, facilitate skin turnover to brighten the skin. Clients in their 20s can start a preventative skin care program and clients in their 30s or older can use vitamin C to see a gentle refining of the skin texture. Vitamin C will not directly address the needs of acne-prone clients.

PEPTIDES The result of the breakdown of collagen creates different peptides, which

are short sequences of variations of the 20-amino acid code that are the building blocks of all protein. Peptides send a “message” to the skin that it has lost collagen and needs to generate more.

Therefore, synthetic peptides can be used to stimulate the production of collagen, making skin look younger and wrinklefree, rebuilding the dermal matrix. Synthetic peptides were recently popularized in the cosmetic industry and are highly effective tools against pre-mature aging.3 While there are numerous peptides of various classes, each has a unique, defined role. Specific peptides possess the ability to mimic or prolong the effects of Botox treatments. Most peptides cannot penetrate the skin by themselves and, so, are conjugated to fatty acids through a process known as palmitoylation, which improves the penetration factor by tenfold.3 Effective peptide-based products possess incredible capabilities of promoting healing; reducing wrinkle intensity; and improving skin tone, texture, color, and softness, while boosting collagen production. Used in anti-aging products, peptides work on the client’s tone and fine lines. While pep-

scope this tides do not address acne or rosacea directly, they can assist with the redness and inflammation from acne scarring.

VITAMIN A Since its debut in the 1960s, vitamin A has been the gold standard of the skin care industry. Derivatives of vitamin A are known as retinoids, which are prescription strength, and retinols, a less aggressive form are usually purchased over the counter.4 While vitamin A is a highly effective treatment for acne vulgaris, it is also an incredibly potent anti-aging treatment. Other derivatives of vitamin A, such as vitamin A propionate, accelerate the natural skin renewal cycle from 30 days to between 10 and 15 days, promoting cellular proliferation and collagen synthesis. Prolonged application of topical vitamin A derivatives have been demonstrated to increase dermal thickness and stimulate collagen production, significantly reducing facial wrinkles for a youthful complexion.5

KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE AND WHAT TO CHOOSE In summary, vitamin C is an incredibly effective preventative because of its unique ability to scavenge free radicals. It is ideally a first line of defense against premature aging before and after visible signs occur, especially for younger individuals. Vitamin C can be combined with other ingredients, such as tea extracts, to amplify its beneficial effects and protect aging skin.1 Howev-

er, vitamin C requires continuous use for optimal results. Peptides are known to be less aggressive than retinol products and are, therefore, the best anti-aging care for individuals with sensitive skin types or those who are new to antiaging treatments. Moreover, they are highly versatile ingredients that can be combined with other ingredients. Vitamin A, on the other hand, continues to be the gold standard of the skin care industry due to powerful acne relief, anti-aging, and pre-conditioning for bleaching products. Adverse effects to the aggressive treatment of vitamin A include redness and irritation; therefore, each Fitzpatrick skin type must be acclimated and pre-conditioned before using the product. However, the results are worth the time spent prepping the skin. Discontinued treatments do not reverse the effects, but simply cause the aging process to begin again. Aside from the skin condition of each client, treatments can be incredibly effective, given the patience and dedication to a strategized regimen.

References 1 Goldfaden, G. (2009, May). Revitalizing Aging Skin with Topical Vitamin C. Life Extension Magazine.

2 Michels, A. J. (2011, September). Vitamin C and Skin Health. Linus Pauling Institute.

3 Lintner, K. (2007, October). Peptides, Amino Acids and Proteins in Skin Care? Cosmetrics & Toiletries, 122(10), 26-32.

4 Buchanan, P. J., et al. (2016). Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 9(3), 139–144.

5 Kong, R., et al. (2015). A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 49-57.

What is your daily skin care Ritual?

by Claudio Difiore, president and co-owner of Bio France Lab

M

y daily skin care ritual starts with an eight-ounce glass of water in the morning. Then, I follow with an age defying organic face wash, Intense 24Kt Gold Facial Serum, Complete Eye Elixir, and Crème Fraiche Facial Cream from Bio France Lab.

John Lennon

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When you do something noble and beautiful and nobody notices, do not be sad. For the sun, every morning is a beautiful spectacle and yet most of the audience still sleeps.

BER OD I N WAX

DT 2 MIC RODE RM

TUEL S KI NCARE

EQUIPRO /TO UCH AMERICA E Q U I P.

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Same day shipping on all products &

equipment financing available Over 12 years of representing the top lines in the industry with training, service and support for all of our customers nationwide.

D I M E N S I O N S A A . C O M call us 866.486.5823 or e-mail us info@dimensionsaa.com

ceu exam The CEU Exam is another way that AIA helps its members to continue their education. Send in the completed answer card and if a passing score is earned, a gold seal will be sent to add to your AIA continuing education certificate. The answers to this exam can be found in the editorial content of this issue.

1.

Which organ is not important to body detoxification? a. Kidneys b. Skin c. Large intestine d. None of the above

2.

Retinol normalizes the keratinization of the skin. a. True b. False

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

The seven colors of the chakra system are associated with what? a. Indian color theory b. The colors of the rainbow c. The colors of the human spirit d. The visual depiction of moods Why is cellulite more common in women? a. Skin collagen is set in parallel rows. b. Women’s skin is thinner than

men’s skin. c. Women’s fat is distributed unevenly. d. Women’s fat is more hollow

than men’s.

Clients having multiple extractions at once will not have an adverse impact on the skin. a. True b. False Slimming wraps do not eliminate cellulite. a. True b. False

Hyperpigmentation is a symptom of internal functions and can be prevented in women by avoiding: a. Birth control pills b. Pregnancy after 30 c. Unprotected sun exposure d. Both A. and B.

14. Which of the following is not among the top purchasing holidays in the aesthetics industry? a. Valentine’s Day b. Mother’s Day c. Father’s Day d. Christmas

9.

Drugstore skin care products are formulated to work for all skin types and address a little bit of every concern. a. True b. False

15. Which of these is a common active ingredient in topical homecare products for body contouring? a. Wild yam extract b. Caffeine c. Guarana seed extract d. All of the above

10. _____________ is used to explain to search engines what each page of a website is about. a. Meta info b. Data-tags c. Metadata d. Meta-tags 11. Which of these is not a common collagenbuilding ingredient? a. Zinc b. Glycolic acid c. Lactic Acid d. Vitamin C 12. Slimming wraps can eliminate inches from a body part within hours. a. True b. False 13. Which product ensures longer lasting matte lipstick? a. Translucent powder b. Lip balm c.

An exfoliant d. All of the above

16. DNA impacts the production of collagen. a. True b. False 17. Medical peels do not assist in skin firming. a. True b. False 18. Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) does not impact the body’s healthy cell regeneration. a. True b. False 19. SEO stands for ___________ . a. Search Engine Opportunity b. Selection Ensured Online c. Spa Equipment Optimized d. Search Engine Optimization 20. More than ___________ million Americans are impacted by atopic dermatitis. a. 30 b. 40 c. 50 d. None of the above

Answer Card - November 2017 1. A B C D 2. A B

5. A B 6. A B

9. A B 10. A B C D

13. A B C D 14. A B C D

17. A B 18. A B

3. A B C D

7. A B C D

11. A B C D

15. A B C D

19. A B C D

4. A B C D

8. A B C D

12. A B

16. A B

20. A B C D

Name: ____________________________________________

AIA ID No. ________________________________________________________

DOB: ______________________________________________

Date Completed: _________________________________________________

Telephone: ( _____ ) ______________________________ E-mail: ____________________________________________________________ To take the CEU Exam online, visit DERMASCOPE.com.

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ceu exam

Which of the following cannot be found in sweet potatoes? a. Magnesium b. Iron c. Omega 3 fatty acids d. Vitamin C

8.

“Avocados boost the absorption of fat-soluble nutrients when eaten with other foods. The increase in absorption of alphacarotene, beta-carotene, and lutein, for example, is 7.2, 15.3, 5.1 times higher when eaten with an avocado.”

10 Things About… Superfoods Julie Bach, L.E.

To read this article and more content like it, visit

dermascope.com.

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worth a look Take a closer look at products that are shaping our industry.

Bon Vital’s Facial Therapy Crème with Anti-Aging Complex is a blend of firming actives, botanicals, and vitamins to restore and maintain skin’s youthful appearance. The pH-balanced and non-comedogenic formula has a luxuriously smooth and whipped texture with the perfect amount of glide that leaves a nongreasy feel. It is nut- and paraben-free and unscented.

800-321-2135 or bonvital.com

Parsley Eye Serum by Colorado Aromatics is an all oil serum with parsley and sea buckthorn oils. These vitamin K and A extracts can help reduce fine lines and dark circles under the eyes. The product includes organic macadamia nut oil, which is rich in palmitoleic acid. Users apply this under the eyes and all over the face. It should be used before going to bed at night or during the day after applying moisturizer.

303-651-2062 or coloradoaromatics.com

Dazzle Dry’s Mani Pedi Nail & Cuticle Oil is a fast-absorbing source of omega fatty acids, which battle dry, brittle nails by moisturizing the nail plate and nourishing surrounding skin. Rich in skin-identical ceramides and membrane phospholipids, this proprietary blend of 19 plant oils doubles as a facial oil to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Like all Dazzle Dry products, it is formulated without the use of animal byproducts or testing and is free from abrasive ingredients. 480-814-8300 and dazzledry.com

The new DermaQuest Acne Management Kit addresses skin issues head-on with a four step system designed to clear and control future breakouts using a powerful combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids that purify and exfoliate the skin while reducing pore-clogging oils that can cause blemishes. 800-213-8100 or dermaquestinc.com

G.M. Collin’s Marine Collagen Revitalizing Mist is the first anti-aging, active beauty mist to hit the United States market. It provides immediate radiance, intense hydration, and instant comfort to a dull complexion, while revitalizing the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by fatigue and stress. It also protects against environmental stressors. This mist can be used to refresh the skin throughout the day from being inside the office to going out at night.

Also use pre- and post-work out to revitalize the skin to look radiant!

800-341-1531 or gmcollin.com

Guinot’s new Eau-Neuve Energic combines the effects of moisturizing body cream and fragrant water to provide hydration and a fresh scent to the entire body. Made with ginseng extract, this body water absorbs quickly, replenishing minerals in the cells; the texture immediately changes from water to lotion once it hits the skin. Combining the bright notes of bergamot and orange with touches of jasmine and florals, this refreshing fragrance leaves the skin feeling light and energized. 212-532-1030 or guinotusa.com

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worth a look

Clay Gel Wash & Pack by Faith Cosmetics has the detoxifying powers of clay, which are revealed in a rich gel formula that leaves skin clear, radiant, and smooth. Cleansing yellow clay remedies dull, rough skin by removing dirt, excess oil, and dead cells.

Revitalizing green clay promotes circulation and brightens skin. For an anti-aging boost, white clay helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is made for all skin types; the formula is free of harsh surfactants.

917-881-3752 or faithcosmeticsusa.com

worth a look

Relieve pain naturally and reduce inflammation with Lightstim For Pain Belt! Utilizing Lightstim Multiwave® patented technology, it is FDA-cleared to temporarily relieve arthritic pain, a variety of minor aches and pains, relax muscles, and increase blood circulation. LightStim For Pain Belt can be used for post-workout soreness, accidents, sports injuries, backaches, and bruises. It can also be used in the treatment room while performing a facial or massage. This product includes two 52-LED pods and can support up to four LED pods. 949-502-4088 or lightstim.com

Luzern’s Force De Vie Crème Nuit has redefined beauty sleep by enhancing the skin’s overnight renewal process. Clean, proprietary formula blends combined with retinol, hyaluronic acid, and peptides target four areas of concern: brightening, firmness, hydration, and surface texture. Crème Nuit is formulated for overnight regeneration and is suited for normal and dry skin types. 888-591-7800 or luzernlabs.com

Like a coach, Sculpt Silhouette by Matis helps recover a visibly firmer and streamlined figure, while eliminating the appearance of “orange peel skin.”

Day after day, the sculpt silhouette works to visibly redefine and re-sculpt users’s figures. Dimpled areas appear smoother. Skin is firmer and more toned. 972-771-0300 or matisusa.com

WORTH A LOOK

Meg 21’s Cell Therapy Antioxidant Boost has the benefits of age-reversing supplamine combined with grape seed and gooseberry extracts to provide the ultimate environmental protection. The Antioxidant Boost was formulated without oils in a lightweight, silky texture for use under all face treatments and sunscreens. It reduces irritation and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for that youthful, radiant glow, before and after the beach. 877-682-7949 or meg21.com

Atelocream MC2 by Naturel Collagen reverses the first signs of wrinkles, fatigue, and aging. This firming face cream combines three types of native collagens (atelocollagen, tropocollagen, and procollagen) and an advanced “liquid crystal” system breakthrough technology that enables optimum absorption to eliminate wrinkles and regenerate the skin. Tapping the perfect balance of botanicals such as ginseng, acai berry, and piperine, Atelocream MC2 is an all-natural “energy shot” for the skin that delivers glowing results. 416-394-9808 or naturelcollagen.com

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Hydra 4 Red-Out® Serum by Repechage is designed for the needs of sensitive skin. This lightweight serum combines sustainably harvested laminaria digitata seaweed, quercetin, rutin, and a blend of natural ingredients that work together to help hydrate and temporarily reduce the appearance of redness and dryness. A natural herbal aroma from green tea further helps relax the senses. It should be used twice a day to help create a more luminous complexion! 800-248-7546 or repechage.com

Shunly Skin Care’s Natural Peptide Lash is an innovative nutrient-rich serum fusion formula® featuring peptide and grape stem cell extract provide superior protection of the eyelashes, ensuring long lasting effects and healthy cells. This unique formula is designed for even the most sensitive eye conditions. Safe and highly effective incredible concentration solution protect against harmful ultraviolet radiation and helps eyelashes appear longer, fuller, and healthier. It is an excellent treatment serum for those with eyelash extensions to keep natural eyelashes healthy. Free from parabens, oils, fragrances, and gluten, this serum is vegan-friendly.

214-213-9648 or shunlyskincare.com

worth a look The Medi-Spa™ Service Cart by TouchAmerica is a patented, compact workstation that fits in any workspace. Constructed of lightweight stainless steel, this cart is easily portable, yet strong and sturdy. Intelligent design allows easy access to the specialized tools of the trade. Versatile enough to be effective in a variety of applications, the Medi-Spa Service Cart design can be specially adapted for the needs of skin professionals, nail technicians, and massage therapists. It has an adjustable height and disassembles in seconds for easy cleaning and transportation.

800-678-6824 or touchamerica.com

For those not quite ready for Dr. Nip and Tuck, Tuél’s Lift Up Firming Mask prevents the signs of aging, firms and tightens skin, and stimulates collagen. Rich in antioxidants, co-enzyme q10, algae, vitamin E, and glucosamine, this treatment will help users regain a youthful, healthy, radiant glow.

800-765-7597 or tuelpro.com

Eye Intensiv™ Hydrating Crème by Wilma Schumann is an ultra-luxurious hydrating complex designed to dramatically improve the appearance of fine lines and dark circles in the delicate area around the eyes. It contains a powerhouse combination of long-lasting hydrators (jojoba oil and squalene), proven wrinkle-minimizing ingredients (argireline™ and matrixyl 3000™) and effective brightening agents (eyeseryl™, arnica extract and vitamin A).

The contour around the eyes will look brighter, and more hydrated while the advanced formula works to minimize fine lines. 800-440-3032 or wilmaschumann.com

Brighten & Rejuvenate with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract

worth a look

Made in USA

Dr. Jeff Skin Care Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683

Web: www.dr-jeff.com Email: info@dr-jeff.com

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Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (Requester Publications Only) 1. Publication Title

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13. Publication Title DERMASCOPE Magazine 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation Personal Skin Care Magazine

14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below 10/02/2017 Average No. No. Copies of Copies Each Single Issue Issue During Published Preceding 12 Nearest to Months Filing Date

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1,746

3,145

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e. Total Nonrequested Distribution [Sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)] 3,731 f. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and e) 15,827 g. Copies not Distributed (See Instructions to Publishers #4, (page #3)) 173 h. Total (Sum of 15f and g) 16,000 i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation 76.43% (15c divided by 15f times 100) * If you are claiming electronic copies, go to line 16 on page 3. If you are not claiming electronic copies, skip to line 17 on page 3.

s

s

6,447 15,888 112 16,000 59.42%

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (Requester Publications Only) Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months

16. Electronic Copy Circulation

c. Total Requested Copy Distribution (Line 15f) + Requested/Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) d. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100)

ss s s

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No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date

I certify that 50% of all my distributed copies (electronic and print) are legitimate requests or paid copies.

17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the . issue of this publication.

November 2017

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10/09/2017

I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

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educational listings NATIONAL Intellective AEsthetics • • • • •

Global Pathways in AEshetics The AEsthani Method® Advanced AEsthetics Sciences Functional AEsthetics Certification Master Educators – Modular Training 2016 Regional Events

Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck erin@intellectiveaesthetics.com Alexandra J. Zani alex@intellectiveaesthetics.com Voice: 864-640-1516

california Alexander’s Aesthetics Education Center Alexander’s Aesthetics Education Center provides skincare professionals skills and knowledge needed for a successful career. We offer oncology, skincare, waxing, sugaring, lash extension, and many more classes. Available for rent.

1675 Rollins Road, Suite D Burlingame, CA 94010 800-367-2539 education@alexanders-aesthetics.com alexanders-aesthetics.com

south carolina

iS UNIVERSITY

Southeastern Esthetics Institute

iS UNIVERSITY™ is a world-class, on-demand, and unbiased education platform for aesthetic professionals. Learn from industry leaders through our advanced courses on topics such as skin health, science, treatments, techniques, business building and more.

823 Gervais St., Suite 120 Columbia, SC 29201 Voice: 803-468-4643 seestheticsinstitute.com

Voice: 818-588-0464

FLORIDA

texas

Dermastart Dermastart, a certified CEU provider, is highlighting the following three courses: 1. Understanding Chemical Peels – 6 hours 2. Cell Deficiency and the Benefit of the Mushroom – 4 hours 3. Understanding Skin Conditions: Rosacea and Acne – 6 hours Visit our education website for a complete list of our current classes

Paul Mitchell The School Austin 9503 Research Blvd, #310 Austin, TX 78759 Voice: 512-251-1644 austin.paulmitchell.edu

940 W Oakland Avenue Suite A3 Winter Garden, FL 34787 866-589-2949 dermastart.com

new york

utah

Aesthetic Science Institute

Aesthetic VideoSource

We offer a certified, head-to-toe, hands-on workshop that serves individual needs and uses botanical cosmetic chemistry with natural results.

We are known as the first true pioneer in the professional industry and use unique, classic formulas from FANIÉ International.

ASI is an international CIDECO aesthetics school offering 1200-hour advanced aesthetics classes, 600-hour aesthetics classes, 300-hour nail specialty classes, laser certification, paramedical certification, and continuing education for microdermabrasion, chemical peels, eye lash extensions, dermaplaning, and Brazilian bikini wax! Enroll today and take your career to a whole new level!

8 Faraday Suite A Irvine, California 92618 Voice: 800-441-3264 info@fanie.com • fanie.com

We have built a reputation of service and quality as the best source for educational training DVDs in the spa and beauty industry. Our titles include many award-winning productions, so you can be assured of the quality. We offer training for aestheticians, massage therapists, cosmetologists, skin care specialists, and more through DVDs or video streaming.

922 Troy Schenctady Road Latham, NY 12110 Voice: 518-786-0760 aestheticscienceinstitute.com

Toll Free: 800-414-2434 Voice: 801-282-2490 info@videoshelf.com videoshelf.com

Estheticians Pharmacology Research Institute

ASI

AESTHETIC SCIENCE INSTITUTE School of Ap p earance E nhance me nt

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iation

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advertisers index The Advertisers Index is provided for readers to easily find information about DERMASCOPE’s advertisers, along with the page that they are featured on in this particular issue. If you would like to quickly receive free material about any of the advertisers featured in DERMASCOPE, please visit www.dermascope.com/rr.

Company Name

Pages Health and Harmony................................................ 109

Aesthetics International Association.................. 86, 110

ilike organic skin care................................................. 28

Alexandria Professional............................................ IBC

Inlight Beauty Organic Skincare ................................ 41

Aviva Labs.................................................................. 41

Lucrece....................................................................... 85

Bella Schneider Beauty.............................................. 73

Nufree/Equibal........................................................... 48

Bio Jouvance Paris..................................................... 84

Onyx Medical Inc....................................................... 73

BiON Research Skin Care Products............................ 65

Patch MD.................................................................... 53

Canfield Imaging Systems.......................................... 21

Perron Rigot......................................................... 15, 34

CBI Laboratories......................................................... 71

PFB Vanish Inc............................................................ 73

Colorescience............................................................. 11

Progressive Esthetics.................................................. 57

Daisy MD Skincare..................................................... 77

Raya Cosmetics.......................................................... 83

Dermaglow................................................................. 61

Rejuvi Laboratory....................................................... 19

DERMASCOPE.........................................36, 45, 72, 92

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals................................... 4

DermYoung................................................................ 67

Rinnova Skincare.......................................................... 9

Dimensions in Aesthetics......................................... 104

RN Faces.................................................................... 63

Dr. Jeff...................................................................... 109

Rocusaba/RapidLash.................................................. 37

Echo2Plus................................................................... 47

Skin Blends LLC.......................................................... 39

Eminence Organic Skin Care.......................... IFC-3, 41

Skin Script................................................................... 16

Eve Taylor................................................................... 79

Skinade....................................................................... 26

FANIÉ International.................................................... 55

Skinprint..................................................................... 40

Glo Skin Beauty............................................................ 7

Society of Clinical and Medical Hair Removal (SCHMR)... 88

GlyMed Plus.............................................................. BC

Spa Revolutions.......................................................... 62

Grande Cosmetics...................................................... 68

Vivant Skin Care......................................................... 13

Hale Cosmeceuticals.................................................. 20

Visit DERMASCOPE.com to find out more about the advertisers included within this issue.

POSTAL NOTIFICATION DERMASCOPE (issn# 1075-055X) is published monthly with a special issue in March by WES Publishing, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043.

Periodical postage paid by USPS, Garland, Texas and additional offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DERMASCOPE, 310 East Interstate 30, Suite B107, Garland, TX 75043. Your magazine cannot be forwarded without instruction from you. If your address changes, please inform us at least six weeks in advance. Some back issues are available for $7.50 each, postage and handling not included. DERMASCOPE, including artwork and logotypes published herin, are registered trademarks of Geneva Corporation of Texas. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without permission.

N o v e m b e r 2 017 | D E R M A S C O P E

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ADVERTISERS IMDEX

Advance Esthetic............................................ 24, 54, 73

fact or fiction Drugstore and professional skin care products do not have the same efficacy.

by Irene Kim, cosmetic chemist at YG Laboratories

C

FACT OR FICTION

osmetic products are being created on a daily basis. Some are only sold through aestheticians and doctor’s offices, while others are readily available via television shopping channels, infomercials, online retailers, or department stores and drugstores. Consumers often end up feeling confused about who to trust, where to shop, and whether to spend their hard-earned money at the spa or the drugstore. Where is the best place to buy a skin care product? There is no easy answer – it really depends on the skin care needs a person is trying to address; drugstore skin care products and products created for the professional industry usually have very different characteristics.

Drugstore skin care products are made for everybody as their targeted consumers represent very diverse demographics. Therefore, drugstore products are designed to target some of the most general needs of the skin. The products must be suitable for all ages and different skin types and concerns. The formulating concept behind a typical drugstore skin care product is “one size fits all,” meaning the product should be able to somewhat address a little bit of every concern, from anti-aging to soothing, nourishing, and hydrating – all at the same time.

Meeting many different needs in one product can get very challenging for the formulator, as they frequently have to resort to choosing fewer actives, but opt for the ones with multi-functional benefits and claims. This choice can result in some concerns being only slightly addressed by the product as many actives are dose-dependent; therefore, visible results may take some time.

On the other hand, the majority of products formulated for skin care professionals are made for a narrower range of consumers. Usually, these skin care products are skin type- and condition-specific, result-driven, and designed to yield quick results. These formulations are designed for consumers who are seeking specific solutions for their skin care concern and who are also seeking those solutions via treatments and prod-

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ucts offered by professionals. When creating products for the professional market, formulators mainly focus on targeted issues the product is designed to help resolve. They will choose very specific actives that are often clinically-tested for activity; the percentage used in clinical studies is often referenced as the percentage used in the product. This approach ensures product activity and visible results in the shortest time possible. Consumers purchasing products from professionals also benefit from extended education they receive on the product benefit and usage as proper usage is very important in order to obtain results.

Choosing a drugstore product or a product sold by professionals comes down to each person’s preference and specific needs. If the client does not have any specific concerns, drugstore products can sometimes provide enough performance, but if the client has a specific issue with their skin, it is best that they consult with a licensed skin care professional who can help create the best individualized treatment and homecare plan.