July 2018

Chilling Grilling

&

4 CHEF-INSPIRED RECIPES

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HIT THE ROAD Can't-Miss Summer Destinations 2018 TOP DOCTOR SPECIALISTS

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YOUR LOCAL CONNECTION TO MARIN AND LUXURY PROPERTIES AROUND THE WORLD —

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APR.COM Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 5 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111 Source: Luxury Portfolio®

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Marin is home to California’s best specialty care

Best in California for Neurosurgery UCSF Neurosurgery at Marin: 415-514-6868 1100 S. Eliseo Dr., Suite 1 Greenbrae, CA 94904

From one of the largest brain tumor programs in the nation to groundbreaking care for patients with epilepsy, cerebrovascular diseases and movement disorders, UCSF has long been at the forefront of treating disorders of the brain, spine and peripheral nervous system. UCSF Medical Center is recognized as the best neurology and neurosurgery program in California by U.S. News & World Report. UCSF neurosurgeons provide brain and spine surgical expertise on both an emergency and elective basis as part of Marin General Hospital’s Spine & Brain Institute.

In collaboration with Marin General Hospital, our Department of Neurosurgery offers convenient access to expert care in Marin.

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UCSF Medical Center is ranked the #1 Hospital in California

by U.S. News & World Report

Best in California for Orthopaedics Spinal Disorders: 415-353-2739 Foot and Ankle: 415-353-2808 1100 S. Eliseo Dr., Suite 1 Greenbrae, CA 94904 Pediatric Orthopaedics: 415-353-2967 Sports Medicine: 415-353-2808 1300 S. Eliseo Dr., Suite 204 Greenbrae, CA 94904

UCSF Orthopaedic Surgery provides expert treatment for all aspects of musculoskeletal injuries, rehabilitation, orthotics and prosthetics.

Recognized by U.S. News & World Report as the best orthopaedics program in California, our physicians have specific training in the full range of orthopaedic specialties. Experts in spinal disorders, pediatric orthopaedics, sports medicine, hand, foot and ankle, and primary care treat patients in our Greenbrae clinic. Our Sports Medicine staff provides exceptional care and health education to young athletes in high schools throughout Marin.

www.ucsfhealth.org

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Contents

J U LY 2018

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Features 32 Chilling and Grilling Four restaurant-inspired dishes to make at home.

38 Where There’s Smoke Cannabis enters its golden age.

50 Top Doctors: Specialists Marin’s opioid problem; benefits of spiritual care.

TED THOMAS

42 Hit the Road Summer adventure is just a car ride away.

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this summer, we' re celebrating community and friendship.

GEAR UP FOR ANOTHER 60 YEARS.

C REATED WITH LIF E IN M IND shoptownc en ter.c om @ SHOPtownc en ter

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Contents

26 FYI KNBR’s Brian Murphy loves Marin and baseball.

28 Conversation The subject of Dave Eggers’ newest book is a coffee connoisseur.

Destinations 59 Appellations Musical fun in wine country this summer.

62 Journey Urban and rural adventure in Japan.

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In Marin 23 Currents Camping tips and hybrid yoga classes.

J U LY 2018

Out & About 69 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

74 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

ACT’s A Thousand Splendid Suns at the Geary Theater, S.F.

81 On the Scene Snapshots from events in Marin and San Francisco.

69

Marin Home 85 Backstory An energy-efficient Tiburon remodel.

COLUMNS

The edit and art team joined photographer Ted Thomas at his studio to produce images for our grilling feature, including this Fish restaurantinspired Saigon Salmon Sandwich.

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TRISTAN DAVISON (TOP LEFT); LIZ DALY (TOP RIGHT); KEVIN BERNE (MIDDLE); RON POZNANSKY (BOTTOM)

14 Editor’s Note 16 What’s Inside 138 Looking Back

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Hawai‘i Island’s “Newest” Resort Newly renovated, newly rebranded!

The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort is the resort you’ve always loved, now debuting as the only renowned Westin wellness hospitality brand on the Island of Hawai‘i.

THE WESTIN HAPUNA BEACH RESORT 62-100 Kauna‘oa Drive, Kohala Coast, HI 96743 United States T +1 808.880.1111

For reservations visit us at hapunabeachresort.com or call 1-877-619-0407 and ask about our 5th night free promotion for SPG® members.

©2018 Marriott International, Inc. (“Marriott”). All Rights Reserved. Westin and its logo are the trademarks of Marriott or its affiliates.

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

Editorial EDITOR Mimi Towle MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lynda Balslev, Jeanne Cooper, Kier Holmes, Alice Kaufman, Dawn Margolis Denberg, Zack Ruskin, Calin Van Paris

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INTERNS Tessa Bagwill, Sabrina Tuton-Filson

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ART DIRECTOR Rachel Griffiths

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PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French

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ILLUSTRATOR Ryan Inzana CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Liz Daly, Tristan Davison, Mo DeLong, Steve Kepple, Tim Porter, Ron Poznansky, Ted Thomas

Administration / Web CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh WEB/IT MANAGER Peter Thomas ONLINE EDITOR Donna Glass OFFICE MANAGER Hazel Jaramillo

CHIEF VISIONARY OFFICER Susan B. Noyes, Founder Volume 14, Issue 7. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine Inc. owned by Make It Better Media LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2018. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine Inc. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County.

Marin (USPS 024-898) is published monthly by Marin Magazine Inc., One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sausalito, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

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Invest with Purpose.

We all want to make a difference and invest in a better future.

Now more than ever, how we invest can affect the world around us. Private Ocean is proud to offer ESG (Environmental, Social, Governance) portfolios that address your personal values without sacrificing your financial goals. Contact Private Ocean Wealth Management to learn more about ESG investing.

Meet us at privateocean.com/ESG | 415.526.2900

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Advertising

#hellotiburon

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Debra Hershon, 415.332.4800 ext 120 | dhershon@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoffrion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Leah Bronson, ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com Lesley Cesare, ext 113 | lcesare@marinmagazine.com ACCOUNT MANAGER Dana Horner, ext 107 | dhorner@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Alex French

I N S P I R AT I O N C O M E S N AT U R A L LY

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Reader Services

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MAILING ADDRESS One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965 PHONE 415.332.4800 FAX 415.332.3048 SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES subscriptions@marinmagazine.com 818.286.3160 INTERNSHIP INQUIRIES / STORY IDEAS editorial@marinmagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Please send letters to editorial@marinmagazine.com.

Be sure to include your full name, city, state and phone number. Marin Magazine reserves the right to edit letters for clarity, length and style.

SUBSCRIPTIONS Rates are $12 for out-of-state subscriptions or free for California subscribers. To subscribe, manage your subscription or change your address visit marinmagazine.com/subscribe.

BULK ORDERS For information on bulk orders of Marin Magazine, please call 415.332.4800.

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Editor’s Note

Let’s Talk

A need for honesty about addiction in the wake of new cannabis laws.

I am intrigued by the science of cannabis and how it can improve our lives.

like we are dedicating an abundance of space to cannabis these days. And maybe we are. In a county plagued by all kinds of substance abuse, responsible reporting is something we take seriously.

A few years ago after publishing a roundup review of Marin dive bars, I received a Facebook message from an unhappy reader.

He felt that by glorifying these businesses we were not being sensitive to the fact that many people in our community struggle with alcohol addiction. Just like that, my bubble was burst. I had recently discovered Smitty’s and the Silver Peso, and while the names had been familiar to me for years, I had never been to either. Why? On reflection, I was likely intimidated by the idea of being a stranger in a crowd of insiders and of hanging out in a smoky dive. Eventually, no-smoking laws were passed and after some time I finally ventured into Smitty’s and enjoyed a few pathetic attempts to play pool as the sound system blasted “Gimme Shelter” by the Stones. Combined with five-dollar vodka drinks, the experience was too fun not to share.

That was what inspired writer Calin Van Paris and me to explore and write about six longtime local watering holes — the story that brought the Facebook message.

I admit, I do like wine at the end of the day.

This fact was made public in the hallways of St. Hilary’s during second grade back-to-school night several years back. “My mom loves wine,” read the words in the art project, scribbled in the earnest hand of my then 7-year-old. While other kids wrote things like “My mom loves me, my brother and Jesus,” my daughter Natalie went for the laugh. And as my kids got older and I foresaw high school and potential teen drinking on the horizon, I tried to explain to them that I really didn’t start to drink until I had kids, which is true.

To encourage conversations on potential alcohol and drug abuse, we have published

various articles such as one on teen binge drinking (2013), prescription drugs and kids (2016) and most recently, Anna McNamara’s account of her struggle in parenting both her children through their decisions to go to rehab.

Back to cannabis. This month’s “Where There’s Smoke: A primer on pot’s new golden age” turned out even better than I had hoped.

The author, Zack Ruskin, new to us as a features writer, has a column on pot in SF Weekly and is well versed on the topic. So he was a natural choice for the task of walking readers through the basics of this newly legalized drug. Personally, I need help knowing how much and what I could be ingesting, because so far I’ve managed to either overdo dosage (I blame the tasty cookies and slow creep of the effects) or, more often than not, under-dose, as in, when I popped a fraction of an edible in my mouth, hoping for sleep or pain reduction, I didn’t really feel anything. In any case, I am intrigued by the science of cannabis and how it can improve our lives. We hope you enjoy Ruskin’s useful article.

Taking addiction concerns to heart, I contacted Matt Willis, our county’s public health officer, whom we interviewed in this month’s issue regarding opioids in Marin. He sees the downsides of drug and alcohol use more than most people do. On the topic of pot, he states, “There’s a lot we don’t know about the health effects of cannabis in the strengths and forms it’s being consumed today. We need to remain open and let our assumptions be challenged — on both sides, based on what we’re learning as we go forward.” With that in mind we’ll do our best to provide education as well as to hold a mirror up to ourselves and the community.

As always, let’s keep the conversation going.

We’d love to hear from you.

Mimi Towle, Editor

BLINK INC

I

N MARIN MAGAZINE, it might seem

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THE CENTER OF IT ALL...

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Over 50 Stores and Restaurants, Including Costco and Target

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What’s Inside

easy drives are great for those looking for family adventure, outdoor escape or the perfect romantic getaway.

We wrap up features by talking to medical specialists and other experts with insights into the opioid crisis as it affects Marin. We also get to know the folks in Marin General

With summer in full swing it is definitely time to break out the barbecue.

W

ITH SUMMER IN full swing

it is definitely time to break out the barbecue.

In our grilling feature this month writer and food stylist Lynda Balslev presents four tasty recipes inspired by dishes found at some of Marin’s best restaurants. She’s simplified the recipes so they are easy to make at home.

Next up, writer Zack Ruskin walks readers through the changes rippling through the cannabis industry in the wake of Proposition 64’s January 2018 implementation that began to allow adult-use marijuana sales in California.

He also includes a handy guide to terms you’ll want to know.

Writer Jeanne Cooper keeps us in the summer spirit with suggested road trips. These

Hospital’s Spiritual Care Department — they are there to listen and provide comfort to anyone who needs it.

Up front we’ve got tips for making sure your next camping trip is the best one ever. We also introduce you to KNBR morning radio host Brian Murphy, who expounds on why he loves Marin so much. And we catch up with coffee connoisseur Mokhtar Alkanshali, whose amazing story is told in Dave Eggers’ latest book.

In Destinations, we make a stop in wine country; if you love music festivals and wine, we’ve got a list of places that offer both. A little farther afield, associate editor Kasia Pawlowska recounts her recent trip to Japan. Find the story online to read some additional travel tips.

It’s a big issue full of summer fun and we hope you enjoy it. Now, time to throw some food on the grill and enjoy the long days.

Daniel Jewett, Managing Editor

Kasia Pawlowska likes to stop and take pictures of more than just the usual tourist attractions when she travels. Always one to find the humor in a situation, she photographed more than a few of Japan’s unique anthropomorphic takes on trash cans.

BLINK INC (TOP)

IN THE CAN

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marin

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CONNECT WITH US

TOP GRAM

Our top Instagram post last month was this shot by @bersonphotos of a ship coming in under the Golden Gate Bridge in the fog. Want to see your photo in print?

Tag us @marinmagazine with your best snap.

Top Five Online Stories

2 “A Local Favorite Reopens” After a hiatus, Mill Valley’s Molina is back, anointed with a new prefix — pizza — and a new chef, Justin Bruckert.

3 “Dive In” Openwater swimmers in the county share their stories.

SUMMER GUIDE

2018

1 “Helen Russell” How a coffee entrepreneur with a small boutique roasting business built the successful and popular Bay Area coffee chain Equator Coffees & Teas.

Summer Guide

4 “Tahoe Blue” Getting on and in Northern California’s favorite lake.

5 SPACES, January 2018 The third volume of our semiannual home design magazine. Be on the lookout for the fourth installment, on newsstands this month.

Presented by Marin Magazine H I K I N G | D I N I N G | F E ST I VA L S | E V E N TS | E N T E R TA I N M E N T | M U S I C

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Make the most of your summer with our handy guide. Inside you’ll find useful tips and information about favorite local hikes, a route for a food-oriented road trip, style pages, a comprehensive calendar packed with events, and much more. marinmagazine.com/ summer-guide

Dinner’s on Us Your vote counts at Marin Magazine.

Just ask Joshua Fernandez — pictured here with his son Jeru — who filled out our Best of the County survey and is receiving a $100 gift certificate for use at the Spinnaker. Happy dining, Joshua. Look for other reader picks (and ours) in next month’s “best of” feature.

4/25/18 3:44 PM

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Contributors

Zack Ruskin Writer, “Where There’s Smoke” (p. 38) What is the biggest problem with California’s marijuana industry right now? The tax rules currently in place are causing major headaches for the regulated market — prices have skyrocketed in the pivot from medical to recreational. Until legal cannabis is affordable, black markets and unlicensed dispensaries will continue to enjoy a substantial share of the profits.

No. 1 piece of advice for marijuana novices looking to partake? Start slow and always read packaging carefully before consuming. Many edible products come with multiple doses and are not intended to be ingested all at once.

Where has your work appeared before? My writing on culture and cannabis has appeared in Vanity Fair, Billboard, San Francisco Chronicle, Paste, The Believer, Bandcamp, SF Weekly, Maxim, Uproxx, Everfest and more. Follow me on Twitter @zackruskin.

Alice Kaufman Writer, “Sporting Life” (p. 26) What do you enjoy the most about Marin? How easy it is to do almost anything, how almost everything is good looking, how almost everything I want to do is here in Marin, how nice almost everyone is.

How did you originally get into writing? After a random meeting with a publisher who hired me to write several small books, I’ve never looked back.

Where has your work appeared before?

Articles I wrote have been published in the San Francisco Chronicle, Santa Fe New Mexican, New Mexico Magazine, Gentry Magazine, Maine Antique Digest, Chile Pepper Magazine, California Home and Design, Oakland Magazine, Hali and Publishers Weekly.

Lynda Balslev Writer, “Chilling and Grilling” (p. 32) What was the most challenging part of this story? It’s always a fun challenge to coordinate the timing efficiently with all of the moving parts, including selecting props, cooking, grilling and assembling four different recipes, and styling the shot. It can take a couple of hours to complete one perfect photo, and on a project like this we needed four perfect photos.

How did you get into food writing and photography? I put an interior design career on hold and moved to Europe to study cooking in Paris, and I ended up staying abroad and living in three countries over 15 years. I found the first and best way to step into a new culture was through its cuisine.

Where has your work appeared before? I have published three cookbooks (a fourth is on the way) and my column TasteFood.

Ryan Inzana Illustrator, “Where There’s Smoke” (p. 38) What did you enjoy most about this assignment? I had a good time designing the pot supermarket.

Any funny pot stories you’d want to share? A friend of mine lived in a building with a terribly garbled intercom system. As a joke, I rang his apartment buzzer and announced, “OPEN UP, NEW YORK POLICE DEPARTMENT!” Little did I know my friend was stoned out of his gourd — in his reeferinduced paranoia, he flushed all his weed down the toilet.

Where has your work appeared before? My graphic novels include Ichiro and the upcoming Curious George, a comic adaptation of everyone’s favorite little chimp (both are published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt). I also draw for Nike, Red Bull, Entertainment Weekly, Newsweek, Wired, Politico and many others.

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Marin Magazine

July

Full Page 4/C

9” x 10 3/4” 6/1

John Irving

CHINA CAMP

I’m John, and this is my healing place.

Eighty-year-old Novato resident John Irvine was enjoying a leisurely retirement, keeping fit with a daily two-mile walk. Then, he began experiencing fatigue and shortness of breath. After several trips to his local Emergency Room, John was diagnosed with bradycardia, or slow heartbeat.

He needed a pacemaker right away. He was referred to Sujoya Dey, MD, Medical Director of Electrophysiology at Marin General Hospital, one of the few Bay Area hospitals to offer the revolutionary Micra™ Transcatheter Pacing System. Conventional pacemakers are surgically implanted, but the tiny Micra™ device is introduced minimally invasively through a vein in the groin and threaded up to the heart. Patients go home the next day and, as John can attest, recovery is almost immediate. He was back to enjoying his favorite Marin places in no time.

To read more healing stories, visit www.maringeneral.org/healing

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In Marin

CE L E B R AT I N G T H E PEO PL E , PL ACE S A N D C AU S E S O F T H I S U N I Q U E CO U N T Y

CAMPING CALLS Get outside with tips from a local expert.

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

Classic Tent at Mendocino Grove

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In Marin / CURRENTS

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23

Corte Madera native Alyssa Ravasio knows camping. As the founder and CEO of Hipcamp — an online service that books campsites on private property, public parkland, and Army Corps of Engineers campgrounds nationwide — Ravasio has been “getting more people outside” since 2013. Here she shares tips for making your summer camping trip a breeze.

1 Escape the Crowds Find your zen with midweek micro-adventures. Mare Island Preserve, Kirby Cove, Angel Island — lots of camping areas are accessible by public transportation or even a short bike ride.

Name Your Namaste

2 Work from Nature Search for a spot with Wi-Fi (filter for this feature on Hipcamp) and small cabins or other structures with amenities, and you’ve got yourself an outdoor office for the length of your stay.

3 No Tent, No Problem Find places with amenities provided — aka glamping (you can filter for this as well) — and don’t be deterred by lack of gear: some local companies offer affordable equipment and apparel rental. Try the Alite Ranger Station or Last Minute Gear.

Yoga may be a familiar part of the Bay Area fitness landscape, but not everyone signs up to practice. If the usual poses haven’t felt right, one of these hybrid classes might. KIER HOLMES TYPE

Cannabis Yoga

Cat Yoga

Floating Yoga

AcroYoga

Beer Yoga

Church Yoga

Goat Yoga

WHAT IT IS

Light up and chill out before class.

Lucky Box delivery club founder Eliza Maroney focuses on alignment and mind-body connection in her Bend and Blaze classes (21 and over).

Practice your purrrfect pose with 15 rescue felines in this one-hour hatha yoga class.

A 75-minute class taught on the water on a stand-up paddleboard.

A combination of partnered acrobatics and partnered yoga.

The class includes elements of yoga, conditioning and acrobatics.

A 90-minute bhakti yoga session, and after class a pint of your choice in the taproom (21 and over).

Hatha yoga taught with hundreds of people of all ages, from all over the city, in a darkened cathedral.

A half-hour of lighthearted yoga with baby goats hanging out with you and on you, plus 15 minutes playing with the young and old goats.

COST

$30 a class, includes pot

$30 a class, includes supplies and tea

$35 a class, includes all equipment

Free

$12, includes beer

$10–$20 suggested donation

$35, bring your own mat

Fire Path Yoga, San Francisco. firepath yoga.com

KitTea, San Francisco. kitteasf.com/ yoga

OnBoardSUP, Sausalito. onboard sup.com

Sports Basement, San Francisco. sportsbase ment.com

Laughing Monk Brewing, San Francisco. laughing monk brewing.com

Grace Cathedral on the labyrinth, San Francisco. grace cathedral.org

City Grazing, San Francisco. yogoats.org

4 Get Close You can explore Yosemite or other national parks without staying inside the park. Find the best camping near national parks at Hipcamp.

5 Beyond the Bay New Cuyama, in Santa Barbara County, is just four hours south of the Bay Area and has incredible camping and outdoor access.

6 Dream Big Create a nature or camping goals list to push yourself to get outdoors more.

7 Traffic Sucks Leave before 3 p.m. on Friday or before 7 a.m. on Saturday.

8 Beat the Heat Driving even an hour out of the Bay Area can land you in 80- to 100-degree weather. Find water and camp near it.

WHERE

9 Don’t Overthink Look for last-minute options on Hipcamp; thousands of new acres for camping are added every month across the U.S.

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Murphy coaching the 2017 rookie league Chihuahuas and giving some pointers to son Rory.

Sporting Life

A morning radio host talks about how he got started in the business, his most-famous interview and why he loves Mill Valley. BY ALICE KAUFMAN

C

A LLING BRIA N MURPHY affable is like calling Fred Astaire graceful. On his morning sports talk show on KNBR that he co-hosts with San Rafael resident Paul McCaffrey, Murphy charms his audience with deep knowledge and sly wit. He has the Irish gift of gab in spades, chatting about everything from the latest Giants game to pop culture to the Twitter trend of the moment.

And, most endearing to local folks, he talks about growing up in Marin (Murphy speaks fondly of “the mean streets of Mill Valley”). He went to elementary, middle and high school

from the era of the Rita Abrams song about the town — the 1960s and ’70s — through the mid-’80s. Now he is living in Mill Valley again, this time as a husband and father.

Murphy’s Mill Valley roots run deep. His parents moved from Oakland, where his father was finishing law school at Boalt Hall, to Reed Street in Mill Valley in 1961. “A colleague told my dad he had visited a little town called Mill Valley over the weekend, and that it looked like a wonderful place to raise a family. Dad had never heard of it. He and Mom went to Mountain View High School — Marin to them was a hidden place, a place for people with summer houses.

When they went to visit, they agreed, ‘This is it.’

I owe it all to that conversation.”

When Murphy’s older brother Kevin was born, the family moved to a bigger house on East Blithedale, and after Katie and Brian were born (he in 1967), the family moved to Enchanted Knolls. Murphy’s mother still lives there.

As for Brian and his wife, Candace, when they first were married, they lived in Montclair, “the Mill Valley of the East Bay.” Candace didn’t want to live in Mill Valley: “She said she didn’t want to re-create my childhood, and I could understand that.”

That all changed one spring night in 2010 when their son Declan was two-and-a-half and Candace and Brian had dinner with his parents at D’Angelo’s. After dinner, they sat and talked in the plaza, and “I guess the magic overwhelmed her,” Brian recalls. “She looked at me and said, ‘OK, I get it.’ And we moved to a house up the hill in Mill Valley, not in my childhood neighborhood.”

Why Mill Valley? “There are practical and ethereal reasons,” he says. “Practically, it’s a no-brainer. First of all, Mill Valley has what every family looks for — a sound public school system; Mill Valley checks that box in a big way. Plus Mill Valley is safe and secure.”

Murphy commutes to his 6-to-10-a.m.

“Murph & Mac” radio show five days a week, so proximity to San Francisco is another plus.

“Then there are the ethereal reasons that I share with everyone who has fallen in love with southern Marin. It’s not just the overwhelming natural beauty, but how that beauty is incorporated in your life. It feeds your soul.

The silhouette of Mount Tam grounds you.”

Growing up here, “we all had such a special experience,” he adds. “To raise kids to experience that too is a wonderful opportunity indeed.”

Murphy had a love for Marin early, first as a student at Alton School, now Edna Maguire (“I walked there from third grade on”), then at Mill

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Marin to them was a hidden place, a place for people with summer houses. When they went to visit, they agreed, ‘This is it.’ I owe it all to that conversation.

Murph’s favorite Giants games No. 3 Game 6, 2010 pennant race: Giants 3, Phillies 2 No. 2 Game 4, 2010 World Series: Giants 4, Rangers 0

Valley Middle School and Tam High, where he played varsity baseball and basketball.

Are the Mill Valley schools different now?

“That’s a cultural question,” he says. “We were smaller [as a community], there were fewer kids.” Now he finds a “significant increase in parental involvement.” Also, “the biggest deal now is money. When I went to school here, we didn’t have to fundraise and rely on KIDDO! to have music and PE classes.

“But the essence is the same,” he says. “Nice neighborhoods, schools, safety, all the same.”

Both sons, Declan and Rory, now 10 and 6, play basketball and, thanks to their mother’s influence, they swim, but baseball is their number-one sport. In fact, Murphy says one of the greatest things about being back in town is coaching his sons’ Little League teams at Boyle Park, “the most unchanged thing about the Mill Valley experience, wonderfully unchanged. Boyle Park on a spring evening.”

That experience is exactly how he lived it, how he remembers living it.

“The field never moved. It’s been kept the same, like a museum exhibit. The air and light remind me of that spring evening outside D’Angelo’s,” he adds. “Coaching Little League is a major-league flashback to childhood.”

And yet even kids’ athletics have changed.

“Sports are more competitive now,” Murphy concedes. “Families spend time and effort to produce athletes.” On a recent radio show,

he called out “parents who are trying to redefine parenting” and mourned the loss of “free-form play.”

So not everything has stayed the same in Mill Valley, he admits. “But you can say that about everywhere in the Bay Area. Burlingame, Orinda, Petaluma, they are all affected by the growing disparity of income in American society. When I was a kid, I knew a kid whose father was a baker at Safeway. Now the dads are fund managers. Mill Valley used to be able to sustain both [types of] families. Now just one.”

Sports wasn’t the only thing on Murphy’s mind while he was growing up. His journalism career began at Tam High. “I was news editor of the Tam News my senior year, in 1985, under Dick Fregulia, renowned local jazz pianist — my first journalism gig.” From there, he wrote sports for the Mill Valley Record in the spring of 1985, his first sports bylines, typed up on his dad’s old 1949 typewriter and slid under the door of the Record office on Miller Avenue.

“My ambition was to be a features writer at Sports Illustrated,” he says. “It never came true, but I married a girl who worked at SI, so that might be halfway. Prior to that, I thought I’d be a White House reporter for Time magazine. I loved and adored the great SI writers like Frank Deford and Curry Kirkpatrick.

Thursdays, when SI came in the mailbox, were magical days.”

Radio, Radio The ease of Brian Murphy’s Monday-to-Friday commute is one of the practical pluses of living in Mill Valley.

“Everyone should be so lucky. There are six other cars on the road when I leave home at 4:50 a.m.” What does he listen to on the drive? “I start with ESPN radio 4:50 a.m. to 4:55, NPR 4:55 to the top of the hour, Adam Copeland on KNBR until I get to work.”

And on the way home: “KNBR, to see if Gary and Larry have something we didn’t cover, then Howard Stern on Sirius — he is the master, the greatest revolutionary in radio. He created a family, a neighborhood, he brings his life to the air. And I listen to music, all kinds.”

No. 1 Game 7, World Series: Giants 3, Kansas City 2. “I was there, in Kansas City, in person. I can still see the gate to the bull pen swing open and Madison Bumgarner walk out. I still relive that historic and evocative day.”

At UCLA, after high school, hoping to take the next step toward the White House, he went to a Daily Bruin orientation meeting. “They said they were understaffed in the sports department and that there were two assignments available that night,” Murphy recalls. On the spot, a lottery was held and his name was picked out of a hat. “I turned in the story, and the editor gave me another assignment. I never looked back.”

After college, Murphy wrote for the San Francisco Chronicle, Los Angeles Times, San Francisco Examiner, Santa Rosa Press Democrat, ESPN.com and Yahoo! sports. He was covering golf for the Chronicle in the Tiger Woods era and writing feature stories when KNBR came calling. He started there in February 2004, and general manager Tony Salvadore immediately teamed him up with Paul McCaffrey.

Who listens now? “Families, people getting ready for the day, parents driving kids to school, commuters stuck in traffic on the Bay Bridge, truck drivers who are on the road all the time looking for something to take their minds off the drive.” KNBR’s program director won’t give actual listener numbers for the popular show but says they’re “astonishingly high.” In 2017 Radio Ink magazine named it one of the country’s top 10 best sports radio shows.

Their most talked-about interview is with 49ers owner Jed York after he fired Jim Harbaugh. “It’s gotten the most traction of anything I’ve done,” Murphy says. “I asked uncomfortable questions, resulting in an uncomfortable interview. Nobody had asked those questions, but that was what the fans wanted to know.” m M A R I N J U LY 2 0 1 8 27

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Mokhtar Alkanshali

The subject of Dave Eggers’ best-seller has a true-life story of discovery, escape and coffee. BY JIM WOOD • PHOTOS BY TRISTAN DAVISON

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OKHTA R A LKH A NSH A LI IS the protago-

nist of The Monk of Mokha, the recent best-seller by famed Sausalito-based author Dave Eggers. A son of Yemeni emigre parents, Alkhanshali grew up in San Francisco’s gritty Tenderloin and is now the 30-year-old founder and CEO of Port of Mokha coffee in Oakland.

The book is nonfiction: Alkhanshali is a living, breathing person; his experiences and exploits really happened.

Eggers spent three years and hundreds of hours interviewing Alkhanshali and retracing most of his steps.

At its core, the story is about invincibility of spirit.

Overcoming his hardscrabble childhood, Alkhanshali worked at jobs selling fuel-efficient Hondas and preppy Banana Republic button-downs, but he was restless — always thinking there must be more. He thought being a doorman, or “lobby ambassador,” at a pricey San Francisco condominium tower would finally provide the answer to what he wanted to do with his life. And in a way, it did.

And that’s where The Monk of Mokha takes off ike a jolt of espresso, as Alkhanshali begins to explore the

world of coffee. Not any coffee, but Yemeni coffee. Though coffee arguably originated in Yemen, that was 500 years and millions of cups ago. Alkhanshali journeys to reconnect with his Yemeni ancestors and to restore honor to Yemen’s beleaguered coffee growers. Never mind that he knew very little about coffee and had even less money and that Yemen was embroiled in a dangerous civil war.

From selling Hondas in Oakland to crossing the Red Sea in a skiff and landing in Djibouti, how did you recall the details of your many experiences? Did you keep a journal? Or did Dave Eggers dig these memories out of you?

Great question. I met Dave and began this book just a couple of weeks after I escaped. Dave had the foresight to have me start backwards so all the details from my escape were still fresh in my mind. The level of detail in the last third of the book is really incredible and that’s why the last third is so intense. The rest of my life stories came out in those three years of

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

interviews. Every few weeks I would remember something and tell Dave. He also interviewed my close friends and family. Probably the biggest help for Dave in all of this was the fact that I am a millennial and so my life was well documented, between Facebook and Instagram.

Readers in Marin might like to know the role Mill Valley’s Willem Boot played in your immersion into the finer points of coffee connoisseurship. Willem is my coffee Mr. Miyagi.

It was at his hands that I learned the arts of coffee making. Roasters, farmers and baristas from all over the world flock to Boot Coffee, located now in San Rafael. Their tagline is “master coffee with coffee masters,” and that they are. My friendship with Willem and his wife, Catherine, has been an incredible blessing in my life.

You will taste sweet jam, tropical and floral notes and hints of cocoa. A sweet lingering aftertaste, coffee that is pure pleasure.

Were there language problems as you traveled across Yemen? When I was finishing middle school I was getting into a lot of trouble in and outside of school. My parents couldn’t handle me anymore and made the decision to send me to Yemen to live with my grandparents. It was sort of like boot camp.

While I was there I was able to learn Arabic at an academic level and spend time with my grandfather Hamood. I saw how he dealt with various tribes and situations and how he carried himself. He is the patriarch of our family.

This time that I spent in Yemen would be the reason why years later when I started this coffee project I would be able to work with different tribes. I was able to adapt and speak in the various dialects.

On your first trip into Yemen, was there a time you felt this is it; there is no way I can get past this interrogation, this checkpoint or this customs inspection? My first farm visit was one I can never forget. We turned a corner and 30 J U LY 2 0 1 8 M A R I N

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While I was there I was able to learn Arabic at an academic level and spend time with my grandfather Hamood. immediately we were ambushed by men with assault rifles. I had never had someone point a rifle to my face and it was very frightening. After we passed I asked the driver what happened and he said that they were looking for a rival tribe.

He then looked at me and said, “Luckily we aren’t from that tribe today,” and laughed.

What was your scariest encounter? The last third of the book deals with my attempts to escape and my subsequent kidnapping and what I had to endure. Being blindfolded and hands tied behind my back. Waking up in the middle of the night and seeing six men storm into the room with their faces covered and all pointing their rifles at me. Risking my life and crossing the Red Sea on a small boat. There are a lot of scary moments.

Tell us a bit about Port of Mokha. Our coffee was rated the number one coffee of 2017 by the Coffee Review. You will taste sweet jam, tropical and floral notes and hints of cocoa. A sweet lingering aftertaste, coffee that is pure pleasure. We are lucky to work with some incredible roasters that can expertly brew you a cup of our coffee. In the Marin area we are proud to partner with Equator Coffees & Teas.

[Equator’s] Helen Russell, Brooke McDonnell and Maureen McHugh are three of my heroes.

On our website, we have our trilogy and single boxes and we just launched our Mokha Monthly subscription that to me is my favorite thing. It’s $28 a month for your fancy weekend coffee. I love what I do. Port of Mokha coffee is a way for anyone reading this and who reads Dave’s book to be a part of the story and bring about real support [for growers and laborers].

As consumers we have so much more power than we think; when we buy a cup of coffee, we have the ability to uplift rather than exploit and when we decide to go cheap, someone pays the consequence for that. Coffee is an amazing way for us to build community and have moments together. I believe the shortest distance between two people is a cup of coffee. m M A R I N J U LY 2 0 1 8 31

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PHOTO CREDIT

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Chilling

S

Grilling This summer when it’s barbecue time, why not step it up a notch and bring some of Marin’s best recipes to your picnic table?

We’ve composed a menu inspired by a few favorite local chefs and restaurants, with easy backyard-friendly ingredients and steps.

BY LY N DA B A L S L E V • P H OTO S BY T E D T H O M A S

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Grilled Lamb Chops with Baked Feta (Bouyiourdi) SERVES 6 TO 8

Wood Roasted or Grilled Brussels Sprouts SERVES 4 TO 6

International Smoke, San Francisco

Pizzalina, San Anselmo

CHEFS MICHAEL MINA AND AYESHA CURRY CORPORATE EXECUTIVE CHEF JEREMY MCMILLAN

Jeremy McMillan works alongside Marin resident and chef Michael Mina and chef Ayesha Curry to develop International Smoke’s globally inspired menu, including this Mediterranean grilled lamb chop recipe. “Lamb chops are a great item grilled or broiled,” McMillan says. “The trick is get the chops nicely charred and yet still tender and medium rare in the center.” To achieve this, he recommends grilling the chops stacked next to each other as if they are still in rack form at the edge of the grill (use tongs to hold them and prevent them from falling). After 2 to 3 minutes the fat will be rendered and the chops will be tempered. Then separate the chops and grill over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes to char and caramelize each side.

INGREDIENTS Marinade L cup olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3½ to 4 pounds lamb loin or rib chops, 1 to 1¼ inch thick 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 3 Roma (plum) tomatoes, diced ½ cup chopped green bell peppers ½ cup chopped pitted kalamata olives ¼ cup capers, rinsed 1 teaspoon red chili flakes ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 medium red onion, halved, cut into ¼-inch slices 8 ounces feta cheese, sliced about ½ inch thick Combine the marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Rub each lamb chop with the mixture and marinate at room temperature while you prepare the feta.

Preheat the oven to 400°F and prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat.

CHEF/OWNER LOUISE FRANZ

“Everyone loves our Brussels sprouts,” Louise Franz says. It’s the wood-fired oven that creates all the magic, she claims, “but you can still get (almost!) the same effect roasting them at home, using a castiron skillet or enamel-glazed pan.” Be sure to include the dressing — its bright lemon acidity balances the natural bitterness of the sprouts.

INGREDIENTS Lemon Dressing ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar ½ tablespoon minced shallots 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

TO MAKE Baked Feta Coat the bottom of a (2-cup) stoneware gratin dish or cazuela with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Combine the tomatoes, green peppers, olives, capers, 1 tablespoon oil, the chili flakes and black pepper in a small bowl. Arrange the onion slices over the bottom of the dish and top with the feta. Spread the pepper mixture over the feta. Cover the dish with foil, transfer to the oven, and bake for 20 minutes. Remove and let rest, covered, while you grill the lamb.

Brussels Sprouts 2 pounds fresh Brussels sprouts 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of kosher salt Maldon sea salt flakes for garnish

Lamb Chops Grill the lamb chops, fat side down first (see headnote), over direct heat until the fat is rendered.

Then continue to grill the cut sides of the chops over direct heat to your desired doneness, or until the internal temperature registers 145°F with a meat thermometer for mediumrare. Remove and let rest in a warm serving dish for 5 minutes. Serve the lamb with the baked feta.

Trim the ends of the Brussels sprouts and remove a few outer leaves. Cut

Make the Dressing In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice, vinegar, shallots, salt and pepper. In a steady stream, add the olive oil, whisking constantly to emulsify. (Or combine all of the ingredients in a 1-quart mason jar, cover, and shake until emulsified.)

each sprout in half lengthwise (if very large, cut into quarters). Place in a bowl with the oil and salt and toss to coat.

TO MAKE To oven-roast Heat the oven to 450°F for 10 minutes. Spread the Brussels sprouts in a heavy roasting pan, preferably cast iron or enamel glazed. Roast for 10 minutes, then stir and roast 10 minutes more or until they are well charred. For extra-crispy sprouts, run them under a preheated broiler for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer to a medium serving bowl. Add 1 cup dressing and garnish with the sea salt.

To grill Use the same technique as oven roasting, using a grill basket or grill-proof skillet, and cook the Brussels sprouts over direct medium-high heat until well charred, 8 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally.

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Grilled Chicken Skewers and Shishito Skewers

Saigon Salmon Sandwich MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 16 (6-INCH) CHICKEN SKEWERS AND 16 SHISHITO SKEWERS

Village Sake, Fairfax EXECUTIVE CHEF/CO-OWNER SCOTT WHITMAN

These little skewers are perfect finger-food appetizers. Scott Whitman recommends that you keep the skewers simple, without overseasoning, to let the ingredients shine.

And “leaving little bits and edges of fat on the chicken meat is really a must,” he adds. “It gives more depth to the flavor and texture to the meat.”

INGREDIENTS Teriyaki Sauce (Yields 3 cups sauce) 4 cups water 1½ cups tamari 1 cup sugar ½ cup mirin 2 teaspoons cornstarch Chicken Skewers 2 pounds Mary’s skinless chicken thigh meat, cut into ½-inch strips Salt and freshly ground black pepper Thinly sliced scallions for garnish Shishito Skewers 1 pound fresh shishito peppers Rice bran oil for brushing Salt Smoked olive oil and Maldon sea salt flakes for garnish TO MAKE Sauce Combine the water, tamari, sugar and mirin in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce by about half, or until the flavor is deep and not too salty. Whisk the cornstarch with

about 1 tablespoon of the sauce in a small bowl until smooth and then whisk this mixture into the sauce to slightly thicken.

Chicken Skewers Thread the chicken strips on pre-soaked bamboo skewers. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Grill over direct high heat until about 75 percent cooked.

Lightly brush the chicken with the sauce and continue to cook until caramelized and lightly charred, turning occasionally. Serve garnished with the scallions.

Shishito Skewers Thread the peppers near the stem base on pre-soaked bamboo skewers, 3 to 4 peppers per skewer. Lightly brush with the rice bran oil and season with salt. Grill over direct medium heat until the peppers are blistered and lightly charred. Serve brushed with the smoked oil and garnish with the sea salt flakes.

Fish, Sausalito

CHEF DOUGLAS BERNSTEIN

“Most chefs run screaming when they hear how serious we are about sustainability and the impact that has on their menu design,” says Kenny Belov, co-owner of Fish restaurant in Sausalito. Luckily, Douglas Bernstein, who earned his stripes at Farallon and Aquarello, was up for the challenge. He acknowledges that while “I have less colors to paint with on my menu, these limitations force me to pull from a global infl ence to bring fresh ideas to our menu and specials. That’s why every stroke counts.”

Bernstein recommends choosing wild salmon and always checking where your fish came from with your local fishmonger. (Image on cover.)

INGREDIENTS Saigon Sauce 2 cups teriyaki sauce ½ cup light brown sugar ½ cup Vietnamese fish sauce 3 scallions 3 whole peeled garlic cloves 1 (2-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled Nuoc Cham ½ cup hot water ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup fresh lime juice 3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce 1 medium garlic clove, minced ½ small bird’s eye chili, minced 1 cup shredded carrot Saigon Sandwich 4 (6-ounce) fillets wild salmon, each about 1 inch thick, without skin 4 thin-crust French bread sandwich rolls 2 jalapeño chilis, sliced lengthwise ¼ cup mayonnaise (homemade preferred) ½ bunch fresh cilantro sprigs TO MAKE Marinate the salmon one day before grilling: combine all of the Saigon sauce ingredients in a blender and

blend on high until thoroughly combined. Arrange the salmon in a high-sided baking dish and pour all but ¼ cup sauce over the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate overnight, turning once after 12 hours.

One hour before grilling, prepare the nuoc cham Whisk the water and sugar in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Add the remaining nuoc cham ingredients and stir to combine. Toss the shredded carrots with enough of the nouc cham to coat and let sit for 1 hour. (Store the remaining nuoc cham in the refrigerator for another use.)

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat. Grill the salmon fillets over direct heat for 4 minutes and then flip and grill for 3 minutes for medium doneness. During the last minute or two of grilling, toast the bread on the grill until warmed through.

To assemble, place the shredded carrots on the buns and lay the jalapeños on top. Arrange the salmon fillets over the chilis. Brush the salmon with the reserved N cup Saigon sauce.

Spread the mayonnaise on the top buns, tuck in the cilantro sprigs, and close the sandwich.

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Where There’s Smoke A primer on pot’s new golden age.

uddled underneath an open-air yurt on a windy Saturday afternoon, the participants of Elevate + Flow are doing all they can to stay warm. Colorful blankets are stretched tight across multiple laps while spirited conversations ensue between f riends who f irst met only hours earlier. The daylong yoga retreat, set in the quiet splendor of a private ranch in Geyserville, is nearing its end, but thanks to one special ingredient, no one seems terribly eager to head for the shuttle that will eventually bring them home.

Proudly displayed in wooden holsters throughout the space is a generous selection of plastic pens that have helped to ensure the “elevate” portion of the day’s activities. Each pen contains one of six tailored recipes designed to induce different sensations — sleep, relief, calm, passion, bliss and arousal — and they all contain varying amounts of THC. Yes, the added element that sets Elevate + Flow apart from the competition is a plant that humans have consumed for nearly 3,000 years: cannabis.

As event organizer Nielma Hock surveys the gathering, she points to the moms and lawyers, software engineers and teachers, now all sheltering underneath a swath of canvas.

“Does this look like a group of stoners to you?”

BY ZACK RUSKIN ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN INZANA

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For much of its history, marijuana has been viewed

as an illicit substance on par with drugs like cocaine, crystal methamphetamine, LSD and even heroin. However, in recent years a green revolution has taken place. We’ve come a long way from hysteria-laden public service propaganda like Reefer Madness, which debuted to the American public in 1936. Thanks to the success of Proposition 64 in 2016, recreational cannabis is now legal to purchase and consume in California.

If the last time you ingested marijuana came courtesy of an unlabeled magic brownie purchased in the shadows of Golden Gate Park, you may not realize that the modern-day cannabis shopping experience is more like a visit to Whole Foods than a drug deal in the alleyway.

January 1, 2018, marked the official beginning of adultuse sales in California, allowing anyone age 21 or older to set foot in locations previously only accessible to those with valid medical cannabis cards. While not every dispensary is licensed to offer recreational sa les, a number of Sa n Fra ncisco “We’ve come a long retailers have succeeded in obtaining way from hysteriapermits. What exists beyond their laden public-service doors is simply staggering. propaganda like One of the main complaints of casual marijuana consumers has Reefer Madness.” long been an inability to discern exactly how high a product will get them. While most can probably gauge the effect of a single puff of a joint, things get exponentially murkier when it comes to baked goods and other products that don’t involve smoke. With strict new regulations established in conjunction with Proposition 64 now in place, the mystery of dosing is finally being solved.

A visit to a dispensary will reveal that chocolate bars now come pre-portioned into breakable bites — with each square guaranteed to have a specific amount of THC (the psychoactive component of cannabis).

Not looking to satisfy your sweet tooth? In the days before legalization, finding edibles that weren’t saturated in sugar was a difficult task, but the trend of eating healthy has at last penetrated the cannabis industry as well. While there are still plenty of cookies, brownies and other decadent laced treats to be had, many companies have opted to expand into more wholesome products like granola, nuts, broths and

KNOW YOUR TERMS Depending on whom you’re speaking with, you may hear any number of words used to describe the buds of the Cannabis sativa plant. From slang to science, the origins of these terminologies are a fascinating glimpse into the history of pot itself. Here is a quick vocabulary lesson on some of the most popular marijuana monikers.

oatmeal. There are also now teas, tinctures, balms and dried fruits available in assorted doses. There are even vegan and gluten-free options.

Another concern — flavor — has also taken a leap forward.

No longer are edibles doomed to taste primarily of marijuana, thanks to the efforts of Michelin-caliber chefs like Michael Magallanes and Mindy Segal, two of the numerous celebrated cooks who have left the restaurant world behind in favor of cooking up cannabis confections. Discussions surrounding flavor have extended far beyond marijuana-laced food. In the past several years, the entirety of the cannabis industry has become obsessed with one element specifically: terpenes.

For decades, the distinction between sativa and indica — the two primary species of cannabis plant — was the argument that ruled the day. However, research has shown that it is terpenes — the aromatic oils that distinguish strains of cannabis from one another — that truly differentiate varietals of the plant from one another.

Indeed, it is terpenes that now aid consumers in selecting which strain best suits them. Linalool is known for its sedative properties and flavors of lavender and birch, while pinene unsurprisingly carries a taste of pine and is also recommended as an aid for combating inflammation. Naturally, some enterprising cannabis chemists are designing hybrids and extracting terpene elements to create even more refined options. Last year, Northern California’s AbsoluteXtracts actually teamed with popular Bay Area brewery Lagunitas to create a line of cannabis oils inf used with terpenes extracted from beer hops.

Yes, even beer is not immune from the green touch.

Many grocery stores now feature wellness sections, and the marijuana industry is no different.

Instead of homeopathic powders and root extracts, though, the star of this show is cannabidiol — more commonly known as CBD. Just as THC is but one of over 100 cannabinoids found in the cannabis plant, CBD is an extract that has recently taken the spotlight for its profound and varied medicinal applications. Unlike THC, CBD has no psychoactive properties, meaning consumers of pure CBD products can safely ingest without fear of getting “stoned.”

The benefits of CBD are numerous. A 2017 study in the New England Journal of Medicine found the product successful in treating epilepsy in children. Another study from the same year conducted by the National Academy of Sciences suggests

4/20 This popular shorthand for marijuana (and the onus for cannabis celebrations on April 20) was actually first coined by a group of San Rafael High School students in the 1970s who would meet outside the school at 4:20 p.m. to toke up.

CANNABIS

The preferred way to reference marijuana these days is to simply use its genus name.

GANJA A Sanskrit term for hemp, popularized in Jamaica. The word was first introduced to the Caribbean by British colonials.

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that CBD may be a viable treatment for autism. One vocal group of supporters is military veterans, who have found both CBD and THC to be helpful in treating post-traumatic stress disorder and numerous other ailments incurred during active duty. Groups like the Veterans for Cannabis and the Weed for Warriors Project are both leading the fight in Washington, D.C., to demand safe and affordable access to marijuana.

Their efforts have only gained more traction as an opioid crisis continues to ravage the U.S. According to the National Center for Health Statistics, there were more than 63,000 opioid-related overdoses in 2016 alone. Meanwhile, science has proven over and over that it’s simply not possible to overdose on cannabis.

A study authored by Paul Armentano, deputy director for leading cannabis advocacy group NORML (National Organization for the Reform of Marijuana Laws), summarizes the situation succinctly: “The consumption of marijuana, regardless of quantity or potency, cannot induce a fatal overdose.” These findings were echoed by a 1995 World Health Organization review, which conclusively asserted that there is “no record” of an individual ever suffering from a fatal cannabis overdose.

As individuals continue to learn that consuming

cannabis does not carry acute or adverse health risks, the culture surrounding marijuana is expanding to encompass a variety of new converts. However, the jury is still out when it comes to driving under the influence. While California has made it clear that operating a vehicle while stoned is illegal, a reliable methodology for testing cannabis inebriation has yet to be discovered.

Where once people imagined all marijuana smokers resembled the always-stoned duo Cheech and Chong, the demographics now reveal that the typical pot smoker is, in fact, hiding in plain sight. They are your neighbors, your teachers, your bosses — even your grandparents. According to data obtained by the popular online delivery service Eaze for its 2017 “Modern Marijuana Consumer” survey, 51 percent of cannabis consumers polled held a college or postgraduate degree. In addition, 91 percent of respondents were employed full-time, and 49 percent reported an annual household income of at least $75,000.

The cannabis industry is adapting to this news, collaborating on a diverse array of events that introduce marijuana

MARIJUANA The origins of this word remain somewhat murky. Some think it comes from the Aztec word mallihuan (prisoner), while others believe it derives from the Chinese word ma ren hua (hemp seed flower). Many feel the term has unattractive racial connotations, given that it has been used extensively since the 1930s by those who

into popular everyday activities. Exercise was a natural choice, and the prevalence of “ganja” yoga and events like Elevate + Flow reflect the public’s interest in combining cannabis with activities that encompass a spiritual or meditative component.

However, other options have tar“While not every geted everything from viticulture dispensary is licensed to video games. North of Marin, Sam Edwards of the Sonoma to offer recreational sales, Cannabis Company has taken a number of San Francisco to offering weed and wine tastretailers have succeeded in ings, while last fall, California obtaining permits.” event orga nizers Gra ssf ed hosted an event in San Francisco where patrons donned virtual reality headsets after a visit to one of several “medicating” stations.

Where the market goes next is anyone’s guess.

On a blustery ridge in Geyserville, a woman from AbsoluteXtracts is chatting with a man offering nonmedicated samples of Atlas Edibles. While state law currently prohibits offering cannabis samples, both express hope that AB2020 — a bill currently under consideration in California — will rectify the issue. It is but one of many problems still in need of comprehensive solutions.

Other factors, like government-sponsored banking options and a compounded tax situation that has left many former dispensary customers returning to unregulated sources, continue to hinder the assimilation of cannabis into the mainstream. Of course, no issue looms larger than the fact that marijuana remains a controlled substance by federal law, but even that Goliath is finally at risk of being slain by the likes of Senate Minority Leader Chuck Schumer and other members of Congress.

Meanwhile, a change in perception surrounding cannabis continues. It’s happening every day, on a level so personal that it sometimes escapes the headlines.

“Most guests are blown away that the stereotypes maligning cannabis’ reputation could not be further from the truth,” Nielma Hock notes. “Guests come away feeling energized to be part of a movement breaking down the stereotype of the cannabis user. Let’s face it: none of our guests lives in their mother’s basement playing video games all day while smoking out of a bong. That is just not the reality of cannabis.” m

oppose cannabis, as a way of making the plant sound more exotic or foreign.

POT A contraction of potacion de guaya, a drink from Spain and Mexico that combines cannabis and wine.

WEED Often attributed to marijuana’s tendency to grow quickly and with ease, although Cannabis sativa is not, by definition, a weed.

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HIT the

ROAD

This summer it’s time to get the car tuned up and consider getting out on the road. Whether you’re going south, east or north, we’ve got some exciting picks for family adventure, outdoor escape or the perfect romantic getaway. BY JEANNE COOPER M A R I N J U LY 2 0 1 8 43

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Pixar Nighttime Spectacular at Disneyland

WITH THE KIDS

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA VIA MONTEREY/CARMEL

Ask most people to conjure up an idyllic Southern California road trip, and images of beautiful coastal Highway 1 through Big Sur likely come to mind, perhaps with an indulgent weekend at the adults-only Post Ranch Inn or Ventana Big Sur. But continuing south on that spectacular road all the way to Hearst Castle in San Simeon currently isn’t an option: Highway 1 remains closed south of Gorda and north of Ragged Point through at least mid-September, while Caltrans works to clear last year’s massive slide. So why not pack up the kids and head for SoCal’s theme parks instead? While you could get to those parks faster by blasting down I-5 to greater Los Angeles, it’s a lot more fun to take the attraction-filled route we describe here, with an overnight stop in Monterey. You’ll find both child-friendly pit stops and scenic photo ops, especially if you include an overnight in Monterey or Carmel along the way.

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1 DAY

➽ WHERE TO STAY CAMPING Monterey Veterans Memorial Park The 50-acre, pet-friendly park in the Monterey hills has 40 noreservation campsites, with showers and toilets. From $30. monterey.org/services/ parks-and-beaches

Malibu Creek State Park An 8,000acre Santa Monica Mountains preserve in Calabasas with 63 campsites, showers and toilets. From $45. parks.ca.gov VALUE Hofsas House Hotel In Carmel-by-the-Sea, 38 large, homey rooms

with heated pool, free continental breakfast and parking. From $155. hofsashouse.com Knott’s Berry Farm Hotel The Buena Park property has 320 cheery, recently remodeled rooms (some with Snoopy theme), with free shuttle to Disneyland.

From $109. knotts.com

LUXURY Carmel Valley Ranch A 500-acre all-ages playground on Carmel’s sunny side with pools, kids’ activities and 139 roomy rustic-elegant suites. From $450. carmelvalleyranch.com

Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa Newly refurbished with Disney imagery and high-tech amenities, the 948-room resort offers direct entrance to the Anaheim park and themed pools.

From $417. disneyland. disney.go.com

Mileage from Sausalito

93 mi. GILROY Skip the shop-

ping outlets and stop at Garlic World for dried and fresh fruit

(as well as the stinky stuff), plus the world’s longest garlic braid and a big garlic bulb cutout for silly photos. garlicworld.com

114 mi. CASTROVILLE Just off 01, the Giant Artichoke Restaurant boasts a 20-foot artichoke outside its entrance; inside, find treats such as artichoke cupcakes and fried artichoke hearts. 831.633.3501

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Mileage from Monterey

7 mi. CARMEL It’s not a California family road trip without at least one mission. Carmel’s boasts beautiful gardens, the state’s first stone church, Father Junipero Serra’s living quarters and his grave, along with those of many unnamed Native Americans. carmelmission.org 158 mi. ARROYO GRANDE Unwind from all that

driving on the 171-foot-long swinging bridge, the last of its kind in the state and only a block from the turnof-the-century village. arroyograndevillage.com

RUSS BISHOP/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ISTOCK

130 mi. MONTEREY You’ll

need at least a half-day at the Monterey Bay Aquarium to feed sea otters and penguins in between marveling at creatures great (Great Pacific octopus) and small (striped pyjama squid).

Afterward, walk to dinner in Pacific Grove or Cannery Row. montereybayaquarium.org

209 mi. SOLVANG

Take a slight detour to this Danish-themed town of half-timbered buildings with windmills for aebleskiver (puff pancakes) and other pastries. solvangusa.com

244 mi. SANTA BARBARA Goggle at the western

lowland gorillas, koalas and other critters at the Santa Barbara Zoo, or just enjoy sandy playtime on the ample beach. sbzoo.org

367 mi. ANAHEIM You’ll need a night’s rest for a day of animation at Disneyland Park and Disney California Adventure Park. Pixar flicks provide inspiration for this summer’s new multimedia fireworks show and parade at the original theme park and for the adventure park’s “Paint the Night” parade, illuminated by more than 1 million LED lights. The family daredevils will want to roll with the roller coasters at Knott’s Berry Farm in nearby Buena Park, including the HangTime, billed as the first “dive coaster,” with a vertical drop and five inversions. Dripping but less daunting fun awaits at adjacent Knott’s Soak City. disneyland.disney. go.com, knotts.com

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OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EAST TO YOSEMITE VIA HIGHWAY 120

Although backpacking in breathtaking Yosemite National Park can bring out the John Muir and Ansel Adams in anyone, the road trip there also offers opportunities for appreciating nature and the colorful Gold Rush era that transformed it. Highway 120 is the most direct route from Marin, with enjoyable breaks along the way that might help you feel a bit more patient with summer traffic heading into the park. When planning your stops, don’t forget about literally refueling: there are no gas stations in Yosemite. Groveland has the closest stations to the Big Oak Flat entrance; you’ll find Tesla chargers in both Groveland and Yosemite Valley.

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Mileage from Sausalito

72 mi. ALTAMONT PASS Built in 1981, the

country’s first wind farm now has fewer but more efficient (and eagle-friendly) turbines dotting the gusty hills.

112 mi. OAKDALE Pick up Gouda cheese, German-style cheesecake and other handmade goodies at Oakdale Cheese & Specialties, opened by a Dutch couple in 1983; picnic under willow trees by a pond and greet Mocha the llama and other farm animals. oakdalecheese.com 142 mi. CHINESE

CAMP Now essen-

tially a ghost town, this tranquil hamlet once roiled with Tong Wars — violent disputes among hundreds of Chinese gold miners. Peek at the vintage post office and church, then stretch your legs hiking or biking in the nearby 7,100-acre Red Hills preserve. blm.gov/visit/red-hills 158 mi. GROVELAND Construction of the

DAVID LITSCHEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; DIMITRY BOBROFF/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Hetch Hetchy reservoir in the early 20th century revived this Gold Rush town.

Among its worthy watering holes are the

Iron Door Saloon, dating back to 1852; the historic Groveland Hotel’s Cellar Door; and the delightfully Anglo-centric Dori’s Tea Cottage. groveland.org 182 mi. YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

ENTRANCE Check the Big Oak Flat infor-

mation station (open May–October) and pick up the free permit you’ve already reserved for any overnight wilderness hikes. Unless you’re a first-timer, you’ll want to bypass the crowded valley floor; instead, follow Tioga Road, which typically opens by mid-June, onward and upward to less-crowded alpine lakes and trails. Don’t forget your bear canister. nps.gov/yose

229 mi. TUOLUMNE MEADOWS

Backpackers and rock climbers delight in the numerous paths leading from this dome-fringed glade at 8,600 feet, where it can still snow in July. Clamber up Fairview Dome, pick up the Pacific Crest Trail along Lyell Canyon or marvel at Mono Lake from the Mono Pass Trail.

Start your day with buckwheat pancakes at Tuolumne Meadows Grill and make a reservation early for dinner at Tuolumne Meadows Lodge; like Tioga Road, they’re only open in summer.

➽ WHERE TO STAY CAMPING Eight of Yosemite’s 13 campgrounds typically fill within minutes after reservations are released five months ahead (recreation.gov). Among those with first-come, first-serve sites, try Tamarack Flat, on Tioga Road about 45 minutes north of the valley at 6,300 feet elevation (52 sites, $12), or Tuolumne Meadows, another 45 minutes farther (152 sites, $26). nps.gov/yose/planyour visit/camping.htm VALUE Hotel Charlotte Thirteen lightfilled rooms in a rustic hotel built in 1921, on Groveland’s Main Street (Highway 120).

From $129. hotelcharlotte.com Evergreen Lodge Founded in 1920s, the resort has 88 cabins on 20 forested acres outside Groveland, and reservations go quickly. Vintage cabins from $155, modern from $210. evergreenlodge.com LUXURY Majestic Yosemite Hotel Yosemite’s former Ahwahnee Hotel offers grand public spaces, 99 recently renovated guest rooms and 24 cottages.

From $483. travelyosemite.com Rush Creek Lodge The area’s newest resort, a half-mile from the Big Oak Flat entrance, includes 143 rooms on 20 acres.

From $250. rushcreeklodge.com

Those with time for a spectacular yet sobering detour will want to add in the Rim Fire Audio Tour (3forests.us/rimfire), an 11-stop, three-hour loop starting at Highway 120 in Groveland. The route highlights the destruction of the 2013 Rim Fire, which claimed Berkeley’s Tuolumne Camp among the 257,000 acres burned, but also bears witness to the region’s ongoing recovery.

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NORTH TO MENDOCINO COUNTY VIA HIGHWAY 101

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1 ALBION

The North Coast’s windswept headlands, picturesque lighthouses and cozy inns create the ideal destination for couples, especially those who are also rather fond of food and wine. Exploring the rugged seashore and redwood forests by day creates a prime excuse for indulging in the region’s gourmet treats at night — and for cuddling after, perhaps by a glowing fireplace. It’s tempting to take the sinuous ribbon of coastal Highway 1 all the way from Marin, but the romance might suffer a little if one of the partners gets carsick or conversation lags. Instead, pick the slightly longer route via Hopland; you’ll reach Mendocino a half-hour earlier and find some mood-enhancing provisions along the drive. Plus, if the getaway goes really well, you can always extend it by taking the slow road back.

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Camping at Mendocino Grove

Mileage from Sausalito

61 mi. HEALDSBURG A half-mile west of the highway, pose for a

pic amid the biodynamic garden’s flower blooms of DaVero Farms & Winery, where you can sample olive oil, jams and wines (but not too many). davero.com 92 mi. HOPLAND After a light, locally sourced lunch at The Golden Pig , ensure good vibes later by picking up an aphrodisiac chocolate bar or other sweet treat infused with cannabis at Emerald Pharms,

an elegant dispensary on a 12-acre “permaculture oasis.” thegoldenpig.com, emeraldpharms.com

127 mi. PHILO Whether you backtrack to Highway 128 from Hopland or take Highway 253 from Ukiah to Boonville, you’ll encounter hilly, tree-lined curves. Enjoy a brief respite and gorgeous Anderson Valley views with a stop at low-key Lula Cellars, known for limited-production pinot noirs. lulacellars.com 152 mi. ALBION You’ve reached the Shoreline Highway (Highway 1); reward yourself with views of sea stacks and headlands on a loop walk around the 55-acre Navarro Point Preserve. mendocinolandtrust.org

161 mi. MENDOCINO Founded in 1850, the former logging town

credits its clapboard buildings to settlers from New England. Those who established the 347-acre Mendocino Headlands State Park, protecting wild headlands, two beaches and the banks of the paddleworthy Big River, also deserve credit for the village’s enduring appeal.

For romantic repasts, savor French cuisine in a Victorian farmhouse at Cafe Beaujolais or head south for intimate, oceanview dining at the Albion River Inn in Albion or try the newly Harbor reopened Harbor House Inn in House Inn nearby Elk. visitmendocino.com 171 mi. FORT BRAGG On your second day, stop at photo-worthy

Point Cabrillo Light Station State Historic Park and the sprawling Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens as you head north. If you and

your squeeze find, as Amtrak once advertised, that there’s something about a train, take a ride through the redwoods on the Skunk Train .

Admire the polished shards of Glass Beach before exploring miles of sandy beaches and rocky tide pools to the north in MacKerricher State Park. After dinner downtown, share a scoop of the signature candy cap mushroom ice cream at Cowlick’s Ice Cream Cafe. fortbragg.com

➽ WHERE TO STAY CAMPING Mendocino Grove Sixty safari-style tents (some ocean-view) with luxurious communal bathrooms, a 20-minute walk from Mendocino. From $120. mendocinogrove.com

Russian Gulch State Park Two miles north of Mendocino in a forest canyon are 26 standard campsites with restrooms, plus trails that lead to an ocean sinkhole or a 36-foot inland waterfall. From $45. parks.ca.gov

VALUE The Little River Inn Sprawling full-service resort with 65 ocean-view rooms, some with fireplaces and hot tubs. From $175. littleriverinn.com

Point Cabrillo Light Station No cell or Wi-Fi, just glorious views from two one-bedroom cottages (and two keepers’ houses) by the lighthouse. From $263. mendocinovacations.com

LUXURY The Inn at Newport Ranch The vast ocean bluffs of this 2,000-acre ranch north of Fort Bragg offer eight unique accommodations and an impressively perched hot tub; rates include ample breakfast. From $375. theinnatnewportranch.com

Brewery Gulch Inn Sumptuous organic breakfast and dinner buffet encourage lolling in the inn’s 11 plush modern rooms with gas fireplaces. From $385. brewerygulchinn.com

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Sobering Statistics

The opioid crisis has hit the nation hard, wrecking families and lives, and Marin is not immune. Here’s a look at the challenge the county faces and how officials are handling it. BY JEANNE COOPER Marin: By the Numbers • The number of prescriptions for opioid painkillers — among them OxyContin, Vicodin and Percocet — exceeded the number of households in 2016 (the most recent data available).

• Drug overdoses have far outpaced motor vehicle accidents as the leading cause of death for the last five years; most overdoses involve opioids, including heroin and fentanyl. “For three out of four people using heroin, their addiction began with prescription opioids,” notes Matt Willis.

• As the number of opioid prescriptions doubled between 2004 and 2013, so did the number of related overdoses, clinical admissions for addiction to painkillers and emergency room visits.

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ROM 19 9 6 T O 2 010 , Matt Willis says, doctors had a “very liberal practice in prescribing (opioids) ... There was essentially a myth we were taught to believe, that opioids were safe and effective for the management of both acute and chronic pain, and that there was little chance of addiction. And that was just plain wrong.”

Now, a community-based coalition called RxSafeMarin, co-founded by Willis, M.D., MPH, the county’s public health officer, in 2014, has started to turn the tide of prescription opioid abuse. Among its other efforts, educating medical personnel about non-addictive, alternative painkillers and standardizing emergency room protocols have led to a 35 percent reduction in opioid prescriptions between 2014 and 2016, Willis says.

The county is also taking legal action against pharmaceutical wholesalers and manufacturers. In May, the Marin County Counsel filed a federal lawsuit against 12 drug companies, alleging they “aggressively marketed and falsely promoted liberal opioid prescribing as presenting little to no risk of addiction, even when [medications are] used long-term for chronic pain.”

At press time, the suit was expected to be transferred from San Francisco to Northern Ohio to join litigation already consolidating more than 400 cases, according to County Counsel Brian Washington.

The federal judge is “really pushing the drug companies to settle” with the various cities, states and counties that have filed suit, Washington notes, but litigation could take up to five years if a settlement is not reached by the end of December.

“The county has been aggressively working on multiple fronts on this opioid issue for many years, and we’ve been watching as this wave of litigation has grown,” Washington says. “We figured it was a good time to jump in and raise our hand with the other cities and counties to try to get the pharmaceutical companies held accountable.” m

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Care and Comfort

At Marin General Hospital, the Spiritual Care Department often treats what isn’t obviously broken. BY JEANNE COOPER

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A

T M A R I N G E N E R A L HO S P I T A L , there’s one group of specialists who can get called into the emergency room, the delivery room and the waiting room, all on the same day and at any hour, to confer with doctors, nurses, patients and their families. These workers serve on the hospital’s palliative care team and bioethics committee, are on call weeknights and weekends, and consider caring for the hospital’s 1,700 staff members part of their job too.

The only thing they lack: a medical degree.

Meet the chaplains of the hospital’s Spiritual Care Department, a multicultural interfaith offering that has its roots in tragedy. In 1983, after an accident on the Richmond–San Rafael Bridge caused multiple fatalities, hospital staff found their traditional approaches did not soothe distraught surviving family members, who were Muslim. The hospital chaplaincy, then a part-time volunteer job for a seminary intern, soon became a full-time job for a staff chaplain.

Later the hospital added a training program to create “a culturally diverse team to serve Marin General’s diverse patient population,” says Rev. Sabine “Kora” Schmid, on staff since 2003 and the department’s director since 2013.

Schmid, who describes herself as “Lutheran with an edge of Eastern philosophy,” notes that part-time chaplain residents have diverse origins, recently including Kenya and the Dominican Republic; her fellow department members also include Rev. Alberta Buller, a deacon in the Episcopal Church, and Rev. Sara Vurek, a Tibetan Buddhist chaplain and former United Church of Christ pastor who trains the chaplains. “The care that we offer is not based in any one tradition,” says Vuker, on staff since 2010. “For the most part, it’s not visible what our denomination is. We come in to ser ve (patients) from whatever their place is.”

In that vein, chaplains have helped Muslim family members figure out how to ship a loved one’s body overseas in accordance with their

customs and coordinated with the Bay Area Jewish Healing Center to help Jewish patients celebrate holidays in the hospital. Still, much of their care involves simply listening.

“When I walk in a room, I typically don’t say, ‘I’m Alberta from Spiritual Care’ or ‘I’m Alberta and I’m a chaplain,’ ” Buller notes. “I find that closes doors, and I find it scares people, particularly in a trauma situation. I say, ‘I’m Alberta; I came to see how you’re holding up in this place.’

There is so much that pours out of the heart when (patients) know someone is on their side.

Ninety percent of the time that opens up the conversation there. People love to talk, and to have a space to talk about themselves. That’s what I love about this work ... I serve atheists to Orthodox and everything in between.”

Buller came to Marin General in 2014, as part of her field education in the Diocese of California’s School for Deacons in Berkeley.

“My very first on-call by myself was for an infant born gravely ill,” she recalls. She learned in “terrible situations” like that to “first and foremost, be present. I can’t fix what’s just happened, I can’t change it, but I will sit there and listen and be with you as long as you want me there.”

For her part, Schmid describes the role of chaplain as “a mindful, compassionate presence in the midst of chaos. There is so much that pours

out of the heart when (patients) know someone is on their side.” In 2016, she became the first nonmedical director of the palliative care team, which addresses the concerns of patients with critical medical issues and the concerns of their families. Different religions and cultures have varying views on medical interventions to alleviate suffering or forestall dying, she notes.

“We always try to be the voice for the patient, and if the cultural and ethnicity component comes in, we bring that forth and uphold that,” Schmid says. “And if the patient has no voice, we bring up the voice of the family. Sometimes it’s difficult for the family members to interact with the medical team — they may have a lot of questions, but out of fear or respect, they might not ask.”

The palliative care team meets formally twice a week, according to social worker and team member Nadia Frenkel, but its members interact with chaplains “almost every day.”

She says she often refers patients and family members to talk to a chaplain when she senses they might need additional support.

“People think that chaplains are for people who have specific religious beliefs, but I always emphasize that all of us have our spiritual needs regardless of our beliefs,” Frenkel says. “When someone is facing a serious illness, it can only benefit that person to have someone available to come and talk and be a guide through this very emotional time, and chaplains are the perfect people to do that ... They don’t even have to say a word. They can just sit there, hold hands and be a comforting presence.”

Hospital staff also benefit from that service.

“We’re often dealing with very difficult or medically complicated patients,” Frenkel says, “and we [caregivers] also experience distress, so seeing the spiritual care team offer support for staff is so important. They’ll ask doctors, nurses and social workers how they’re doing; they’ll laugh or cry with you. And just receiving a hug from them takes away so much stress.” m M A R I N J U LY 2 0 1 8 51

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We have three clinics to serve you, including our most recent addition of San Francisco Shoulder, Elbow & Hand Clinic in San Francisco. Visit calpacortho.com for more information about our locations and physicians.

For your convenience we offer in house MRI and X-ray and have clinic hours five days a week. We accept most major insurance plans and are Brown & Toland providers. We look forward to serving you.

1099 D Street, Suite 105 San Rafael, CA 94901 3838 California Street, Suite 715 San Francisco, CA 94118 2351 Clay Street, Suite 510 San Francisco, CA 94115 calpacortho.com Pictured (back row, from left): Keith W. Chan, MD*, Keith C. Donatto, MD*, Mark I. Ignatius, DO*, Mark A. Schrumpf, MD*, Jon A. Dickinson, MD*, Rowan V. Paul, MD, John P. Belzer, MD*, Adrian J. Rawlinson, MD (middle row, from left): Peter W. Callander, MD*, Tom R. Norris, MD*, Robert E. Mayle, Jr, MD* (front row, from left): W. Scott Green, MD*, Lindsey C. Valone, MD, Christopher V. Cox, MD*, James D. Kelly, II, MD* Not pictured: H. Relton McCarroll, Jr., MD*, Frank H. Valone, III, MD* * Recognized on the [415] Top Doctors 2019 list.

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THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF ORTHOPEDIC AND SPINE CARE IN THE NORTH BAY

ORGANIZATION CREST CUSTOMIZATIONS C A L I F O R N I A O R T H O P E D I C S A N D S P I N E i s a m er g er o f Mt Ta m Or thopedics w ith Ma r in Or thopedics & Spor ts Medicine, two leading providers of orthopedic and spine care in Marin and the North Bay. GOTHAM HTF BOOK (APPROVED COPY ONLY)

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OFFICIAL MEDICAL PROVIDER

Together, we will continue to provide leading edge care through fellowship trained physicians and surgeons in sports medicine, shoulder, hand and wrist, foot and ankle, knee and hip joint replacement, fracture care, pain management, and spinal surgery.

With two convenient locations in Larkspur and Novato, we offer seamless integration of clinical care, X-Ray, MRI, durable medical equipment, 26 injection therapy, and physical therapy.

HIGH PERFORMANCE CENTER

Our mission continues to be focused on “excellence in motion”, which starts at exploring all conservative options before pursuing invasive procedures.

If surgery is necessary, we use the most innovative, minimally invasive techniques available to get you back to your personal goals as quickly as possible.

18 Bon Air Road 2 Bon Air Road, Suite 120 Larkspur, CA 94939 7100 Redwood Blvd, Suite 200 Novato, CA 94945 415.927.5300 caorthospine.com Pictured (seated from left): Elizabeth Dailey, M.D.*, Michael Hellman, M.D, Brian Su, M.D.*, Thomas Kim, M.D., Robert Byers, M.D.* Pictured (standing from left): Jonathan Goff, M.D.*, Ernest Sponzilli, M.D.*, Daniel Solomon, M.D.*, Mark Lawler, M.D.*, David Goltz, M.D.*, Michael Oechsel, M.D.*, Ramo Naidu, M.D., Holly Kelly, M.D.*, and Paul Kim, M.D.*

* Recognized on the [415] Top Doctors 2019 list.

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KENNETH BERMUDEZ, M.D. ANY SUCCESSFUL AESTHETIC SURGERY is a blend of science and art.

Dr. Kenneth Bermudez, a highly experienced board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon, works to not just meet but exceed patients’ goals. His exceptional skill in an array of procedures, including body contouring and face-lift, let him deliver the best state-of-the-art care available. Trust, compassion and communication are key to the process, and this doctor truly listens, advising honestly on which treatments fit your needs. Always the aim is a balanced result that reduces signs of age and accentuates natural beauty to help people look and feel their best. He provides personalized care and is there with you every step, from first consultation to recovery, supported by a knowledgeable, friendly staff.

A Bay Area physician since 1992, Dr. Bermudez did his medical studies and surgical residencies at UCSF. He sees patients in an ideally located office and surgery center and has hospital privileges with California Pacific and Catholic Healthcare West.

525 Spruce Street San Francisco, CA 94118

PLASTIC AND RECONSTRUCTIVE SURGEON

415.668.2122 plasticsurgery-sf.com

EVAN RANSOM, M.D. EVERYONE WANTS TO LOOK THEIR BEST. Our philosophy is natural-appearing rejuvenation – making an individualized treatment plan that enhances your unique beauty. We provide honest advice and expert care to help you achieve your goals.

Dr. Evan Ransom is an Ivy League-trained, double-board certified facial plastic surgeon and an attending physician at Marin General Hospital and St. Francis Memorial. His practice includes cosmetic and functional rhinoplasty, facelift, eyelid lift, browlift, fat grafting, and reconstruction after trauma or Mohs surgery. Dr. Ransom also performs minimally-invasive treatments, including, Botox, fillers, laser resurfacing, photofacial (IPL), neck tightening (ThermiTight), and body contouring (SculpSure). Lastly, Dr. Ransom provides the latest in hair replacement using the NeoGraft system (FUE).

Community service is very important to Dr. Ransom. He performs pro bono cleft lip and palate surgery with Healing the Children, a nonprofit focused on international health.

450 Sutter St., Suite 1212, San Francisco, CA 94108

655 Redwood Hwy, Suite 250, Mill Valley, CA 94941

415.550.1077

UNIQUELY YOU.

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CARDIOVASCULAR ASSOCIATES OF MARIN SINCE 1962, OUR PRACTICE HAS PROUDLY DELIVERED world class cardiovascular service and care.

Our 19 board certified cardiologists are experts in their fields of cardiovascular medicine, interventional cardiology, cardiac electrophysiology, and advanced heart failure. They have trained at our country’s top academic institutions and share decades of clinical experience. As a collaborative team, the CAM physicians have created numerous highly successful programs in primary prevention, diagnostic imaging, and cardiovascular interventions.

Our cardiac catheterization laboratory has evolved over 30 years, from being one of the first to perform lifesaving angioplasty into a state of the art center for managing complex coronary and structural heart disease. Our clinical outcomes in treating victims of heart attack and cardiac arrest consistently exceed national benchmarks. This year, our electrophysiology program was the first in the Bay Area to implant a completely leadless pacemaker.

We are one of the first centers in the country to offer intensive cardiac rehabilitation as a comprehensive lifestyle management program for primary prevention.

Our outpatient offices are located in Larkspur, Novato, and Sonoma.

Services include: Consultative Cardiology; Cardiac CT, Echocardiography, Nuclear Cardiology; Stress Testing and Cardiopulmonary Exercise Testing; Coronary Stents, Chronic Total Occlusion, Left Atrial Appendage Closure, Transcatheter Aortic Valve Replacement (TAVR), Peripheral Vascular Intervention; Atrial Fibrillation Ablation, Leadless Pacemaker, Implantable Defibrillator, Remote Arrhythmia Monitoring; Cardiac Rehabilitation and Lifestyle Wellness Programs, Cardiac Dietician

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2 Bon Air Road, Suite 100 Larkspur, CA 94939 415.927.0666

558 Third Street West Sonoma, CA 95476 707.935.1470

75 Rowland Way, Suite 250 Novato, CA 94945 415.878.2910 Ancillary Testing 415.927.0666 CT Scheduling 415.925.7301

marinhealthcare.org/ccm

Staff Doctors: Mark P. Wexman, M.D., FACC* David C. Sperling, M.D., FACC* Jerald A. Young, M.D., FACC* Brian L. Strunk, M.D., FACC* Joel Sklar, M.D., FACC* James R. Adams, M.D., FACC* Brian G. Keeffe, M.D., FACC* Robert T. Sperling, M.D., FACC* Arun K. Raghupathy, M.D., FACC* Sujoya Dey, M.D., FACC* Adam J. Baumgarten, M.D., FACC* Kabir Singh, M.D. Ann K. Kao, M.D., FACC* Benedict Ancock, M.D., MPH Anand Soni, M.D., FACC Not pictured: Kent N. Gershengorn, M.D., FACC*, Vivek Iyer, M.D., Alex Rainow M.D., Anita Szady, M.D., FACC * Recognized on the [415] Top Doctors 2019 list.

6/11/18 10:12 AM

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Destinations

T H E L AT E ST LO C A L T R AV E L D E A L S A N D G E TAWAYS PLU S J O U R N E YS A RO U N D T H E G LO B E

SOUND OF SUNSHINE Whether you’re a wine lover in the North, South or East Bay, these vineyards offer the best pairing to go with your glass: live music.

BY EMILIE ROHRBACH

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Destinations / APPELLATIONS

Opening: Mountain Winery. This page, clockwise from top left: Rodney Strong; Robert Mondavi; Wente Vineyards.

More and more wineries are offering diverse and comprehensive music programs to attract new audiences to their venues. This summer festival season features more acts than ever.

JESSUP CELLARS Jessup Cellars Art House Sessions (produced in collaboration with Hollywood’s famous Hotel Cafe) opens June 16 with renowned singer-songwriter Keaton Simons. The series continues once a month this summer with Marty O’Reilly (July 21) and Foxtail Brigade (August 18). These events include wine tasting and an artist meet and greet. jessupcellars.com

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY The Robert Mondavi Winery, located in Napa, is hosting its 49th annual concert series for five Saturdays this summer. This stellar lineup includes Gavin DeGraw (June 30), Citizen Cope (July 7), Brandi Carlile (July 14), X Ambassadors (July 21), and Fitz and the Tantrums (July 28). robertmondaviwinery.com

RODNEY STRONG VINEYARDS Named Wine Enthusiast’s American Winery of the Year in 2013, this Sonoma vineyard continues its outdoor summer concerts with Michael McDonald (July 8), Melissa Etheridge (July 22), the Temptations and the Four Tops (August 26), and Boz Scaggs (September 9). rodneystrong.com

MOUNTAIN WINERY Mountain Winery in Saratoga offers one of the best and most extensive summer concert series in the Bay Area.

Purchase tickets to four or more shows this year and you are automatically included in the loyalty club. With such a diverse range of acts and shows Thursday through Sunday every weekend, it’s an easy sell. mountainwinery.com

WENTE VINEYARDS This Livermore estate is the oldest family-run vineyard in the country and has been hosting concerts in its beautiful outdoor amphitheater for over 30 years. You can enjoy dinner before the show either outside or inside in the on-site restaurant. The lineup this year includes American Idol: Live! 2018 (July 31), Hunter Hayes (August 8), Phillip Phillips and Gavin DeGraw (August 16), and Steve Martin and Martin Short (August 23). wentevineyards.com

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Valley of Wonder DESTINATION Yountville DISTANCE FROM MARIN 52 miles

I

F THERE WAS an official Foodie Town USA, Yountville would likely be it. The area was named for George Yount, who was born in North Carolina in 1794 and fought in the war of 1812 as a soldier for Daniel Boone’s sons before making his way to what is now one of Northern California’s famously fertile valleys. He soon TANK planted the first grapevine in the area and OF GAS the rest of the story, which includes a rather famous kitchen-master named Thomas Keller among other talented toques, is culinary history. And if you need further evidence that Yountville is a true food town, just look at the abundance of smiling tourists from around the world happily waddling to the next meal. MIMI TOWLE • SIP While Yountville is the eponymous center of an impressive American Viticultural Area, or AVA, on its own, its neighbor to the east, Stags Leap District, boasts some of the highest-profile vineyards worthy of your tasting dollar.

Here the use of the apostrophe with “stags” (or not, in the case of the district) has already cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees to protect individual brands. Note the moving punctuation mark in Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (famous for the Judgment of Paris event in 1976 where a 1973 cabernet sauvignon took top honors over the renowned wines of Bordeaux and put Napa Valley on the map) versus the much older historic Stags’ Leap Winery (1893), equally renowned for delicious cabs. Our recommendation: try both. stagsleapdistrict.com • DINE The aforementioned Keller is a man of many talents.

In addition to dining at his restaurants the French Laundry and Ad Hoc, visitors can sample his inspired concoctions at shops around town: for instance, K+M, a bean-to-bar chocolate co-launched by Keller and olive oil producer Armando Manni, is made with organic extra-virgin olive oil in place of cocoa butter. The oil gives the chocolate a silky-smooth texture, adds antioxidant properties and enhances the cocoa bean’s complex flavors. kellermannichocolate.com • STAY It’s no surprise this hip town has a bevy of lodging

options, with Hotel Yountville deservedly at the top of the list. Built around the oldest heritage oak tree in the valley, the 80-room luxury property earned a Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice award in 2017. To unwind from the rigors of wine tasting, guests can float in the pool or bliss out in the 4,000-square-foot spa. hotelyountville.com

Hotel Yountville’s pool area, rooms and lobby. Also shown, K+M single-origin dark milk chocolate.

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Destinations / JOURNEY

JAPAN

If Google Translate fails, let go and this island nation’s charms will be slowly revealed.

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA • PHOTOS BY RON POZNANSKY

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Destinations / JOURNEY

O ON E STA N DS outside on the deck during the ferry ride to the island.

A few passengers brave the whipping rain and pop out briefly to take photos, but they quickly reappear inside, rubbing their hands together, shaking off the cold. For most of us it’s been a long journey to get this far, involving multiple trains, and it’s quiet on board until an unusual sight appears next to the port. An excited rustling breaks out as we near the pumpkin — red and black, spotted, the size of a modest hut. There’s a clear energy shift. Soon we’ll set foot on Naoshima.

NAOSHIMA Located in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, Naoshima is a small island, only accessible by ferry, with about 3,000 full-time residents and around a million visitors a year. They come, from all over the world, for the art, and the 5.5 square miles of the island are loaded with it. The aforementioned pumpkin is the work of Japanese avant-garde artist Yayoi Kusama; another of Kusama’s pumpkins, a yellow one, is on the other side of the island. Museums pepper the landscape, but the Tadao Ando–designed Chichu Art Museum stands out the most, despite being mostly underground. Built into a cliffside, it has natural light entering between slats of concrete in the subterranean hallways. Ando’s concrete is a thing of wonder, somehow at once brutalist and not intimidating.

Inside this futuristic bunker, vast, cavernous spaces contain permanent works by contemporary masters James Turrell and Walter De Maria, as well as a number of Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies.” Taking photos of anything — even the gift shop — is very tempting but strictly prohibited; still, a quick Instagram search reveals illicit snaps by less obedient types.

But Ando’s design work also appears elsewhere on the island, with less rigid photography rules. Benesse House, which is both a hotel and a museum, is one, and it happens to be where we’re staying. Following the concept of “coexistence among nature, architecture, and art,” the museum and its buildings feature art not only inside galleries but throughout the guest rooms and outdoor spaces. The four guest areas — Museum, Oval, Park and Beach — contain varying numbers of rooms plus a restaurant, cafe, spa and shop that are open to the public.

To access our room in the Oval, we must board yet another vehicle. “You push Up or Down, just like an elevator,” explains Emi, one of Benesse House’s staff members, as she hails the minty green funicular to take us up. The oversize, boxy Lego-like vehicle whirs softly as it moves down the hill, arriving several minutes later. We board and

try to act cool for a few seconds, but as the panoramic view begins to reveal itself during the slow ascent, Emi smiles and gives a knowing nod. We read this cue and the photo frenzy begins. Like a couple of pent-up cats, we start running up to the windows, snapping pictures of the surrounding islands, bays, distant bridges and the shrinking museum below. How many of these photos are actually viable? Zero. Takeaway: next time, sit back and enjoy the ride.

Emi leads us through a glass tunnel to the Oval, a — you guessed it — oval-shaped structure. It’s hollow with a rockfilled reflecting pool in the middle; surrounding walls are a mottled turquoise and there is no ceiling, just a gaping ovalshaped void. The overwhelming vibe is so sci-fi that during our stay I feel more than once like I’m in the movie Contact.

Entrances to the six guest rooms are located around the reflection pool, as is the door to the lounge, where, unlike in all other parts of Benesse House, only Oval guests are allowed, except for some weekend nights when visitors can come enjoy drinks. Our room is spacious even by American standards, with f loor-to-ceiling windows, artwork by Richard Long on the walls, and no electronic devices in sight. Our key is also simple: not a card but a physical key on a chain attached to a carved wooden block. In fact, the most advanced piece of technology in the entire space is the toilet, which per Japanese standards is a bidet, a Toto Washlet with multiple modes and settings. By the end of our journey I grow accustomed to this throne and bitterly accept its stateside counterpart on my return.

We dine on site both morning and evening. For dinner we wander down an illuminated path to the Terrace Restaurant, which serves French cuisine; breakfast, at the Museum Restaurant Issen, features seasonal ingredients from the nearby Setouchi region with two menu options: Japanese or Western. Throughout this trip I choose Japanese (and am glad, after seeing other diners’ slabs of plain white toast and lumpy scrambled eggs); the meal arrives with a detailed color drawing explaining almost every one of the 10-or-so items in detail: “Organic rice that was made at Sado island (Niigata prefecture), tofu of our own making (the best way to bring out the sesame flavor), steamed Chawan mushi egg custard.” Even with English translations, I am still mostly at a loss about what I am about to consume; there is fish that looks and smells like salmon, and a bowl with small pieces of what I assume is kimchi. I eat it all and it’s absolutely delicious. I would be remiss not to mention that I ingested this heavenly mystery food with a Warhol painting behind me, but these things are taken for granted when you’ve spent some time on Naoshima.

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TOKYO “It just says ‘miso,’ ” I say to my boyfriend, looking at my phone uncertainly. After checking in to our hotel in Tokyo’s Shinjuku ward, we had wandered out into the night searching for food, hoping for something more authentic than snacks from the 7-11. In an alleyway, pictures of ramen in the window of a tiny unmarked restaurant lure us in. Or so we thought. Before I have the chance to fully step inside the man cooking behind the counter runs up, waving his hands and gesturing to a machine outside. “Oh, we have to order here,” says Ron, my boyfriend. Easy, right? We stare at the various images before finally reaching for our phones. Both of us downloaded Google Translate, believing it would be a fail-safe guide to a written language so far from the Roman alphabet. Wrong. Opening the app and enabling the camera, I scan the text on the vending machine. Most of the results are gibberish, a schizo smattering of words changing with the slightest move. Hungry and desperate, we settle on two of the most attractive choices — “noodle” and “miso.” We insert 700 yen (about $6.40) each and the machine spits out two small tickets; we enter the restaurant and hand them to the man. This time he grabs them, bows, gestures with a smile to a corner table and begins cooking. The space is the size of a child’s bedroom: four stools at the counter and two small tables. The only other diners are middle-aged salarymen — Japanese white-collar workers — three at the bar, quietly sipping beer and slurping ramen to a soundtrack of American pop, including Christina Aguilera’s “Come on Over” and “Scream & Shout” by will.i.am and Britney Spears. The volume is not subtle, and the men never flinch.

Jet-lagged and delirious, I am beside myself, giggling in the corner over how unlikely this scene would be in the States.

Within minutes, noodle and miso arrive, as glorious as they appear in the photos. The broth has a distinct umami flavor and the texture of the noodles is spot on.

In the morning we set out to see the sights of the city but inevitably stop multiple times on every block. Trash

cans with faces, Tully’s Coffee shops, vending machines with canned hot and cold beverages — distractions are wide-ranging and omnipresent. We finally get to Shinjuku Station and take the train to Shibuya, a couple stops down.

The wards (commercial districts) of Shinjuku and Shibuya are home to the two busiest railways in the world, both carrying over a billion passengers a year, and though the people are plenty, the vibe is not overwhelming. The right side of every stairway is marked with “up” arrows, the left with “down,” and everyone queues up by lines marked on the ground. Trains run like clockwork. Once there was a delay, clearly announced on the many monitors in both English and Japanese and over the speakers, also in both languages.

“There is a fire near the tracks,” a voice says, apologetically.

“The train will arrive in 15 minutes.” And it did. Exiting Shibuya Station, we traverse the famous Shibuya Crossing, frequently featured in time-lapse shots the world over, wherein as many as 2,500 people dart in all directions across

Opener: One of Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkins.

Clockwise from top left: Looking down at the interior of the Oval; breakfast at Benesse House; Shinjuku Station.

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Destinations / JOURNEY the street in about 30 seconds, never colliding, embodying the marvelous controlled chaos that is Tokyo. We meander through the busy shopping district, noting the Taco Bell that serves corn but not beans and the Japanese Starbucks with its equivalent of a pumpkin spice latte — the strawberry-scented springtime sakura latte — before venturing to Daikanyama.

With its proliferation of trendy upscale boutiques, specialty shops and cool cafes, Daikanyama has gained a reputation as Tokyo’s hip neighborhood; it’s often compared to Brooklyn in write-ups. At its center is T-Site, a sprawling dual-level, multi-building Tsutaya Bookstore encompassing just about every genre imaginable in multiple languages, plus a cafe. Here we meet my friend Tomo, who works nearby

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at AKTR, an activewear brand. With her guidance we gain access to a world beyond Google Translate. She helps us order off a handwritten Japanese menu for dinner: sushi, hot pot, a pea shoot salad, and an assortment of other foods we have a hard time finishing before our Westerner friends Peri and Theo arrive. As they sit down a man to our right stands up, wearing a black-and-white shirt emblazoned with “I’m From Hiroshima Fuck Off” and a photo-image of a nuclear mushroom cloud. I realize that in spite of the surface kindness of everyone we encounter, some wartime resentment lingers. Tomo helps Peri and Theo order, they eat, and we leave Shibuya for Shinjuku’s Golden Gai neighborhood.

Imagine 200 bars. Imagine all those bars packed into six alleys, with even smaller arteries of alleys branching off, barely letting two people squeeze through a walkway at a time. Part fratty, part kitsch, Golden Gai has a theme for every mood. At one point we pass a spring break–themed bar.

Much like that previous unnamed ramen spot, bars are tiny, only accommodating a handful of people. We enter one not bearing a “locals only” sign — there are a number of those — and order drinks from an elderly woman in a cropped purple wig. The two other patrons are smoking inside, which is not uncommon, and after examining the photos on the walls, we recognize the theme of our bar pretty quickly. The theme is our bartender, who in her younger days appears to have had an acting career. Taking photos here is also generally forbidden, though the bartender readily posed for one after Peri asked, perhaps because it was a disposable camera or because she was a performer; who knows. Before exploring Golden Gai, be forewarned that bathrooms — closet-size affairs prone to malfunction — are hardly private. Our friend got stuck inside, and though she was valiantly assisted by other patrons who banged on the door frame, finally dislodging the door and setting her free, that’s an experience one could easily do without.

MITAKESAN/HAKONE Much like the Bay Area, Tokyo offers plenty of easy excursions. For those not willing to commit to Mount Fuji, Mount Mitake — Mitakesan in Japanese — and Hakone provide altitudinous adventure just two hours away. The morning after Golden Gai, we meet Theo and Peri and take the train for Mount Mitake. It’s a gloomy day and a mostly gray ride through the suburbs and countryside. An hour later we reach Ome, refuel with onigiri (probably best recognized as the rice triangle emoji) and other snacks and opt for a cab up to the railway, as it’s started to rain again. The cab drops us at the Mitake Tozan Railway, a funicular line between Takimoto and Mount Mitake. Unlike our prior hotel funicular, a cozy six-seater, this one is a full-size bus version, with multicolor exterior and an inside ceiling strewn with cartoon images of flying squirrels.

In six minutes we are at Mitakesan Station, and we walk to our ryokan in the mild rain. Ryokans are traditional Japanese inns, some dating to the eighth century A.D; ours,

Komadori Sanso, opened in 1776 and is built of wood in the style of Japanese mountain lodges. It’s run by a three-generational family, including a grandmother who does most of the cooking, her son and his daughter, a slim, pretty girl who appears to be in her early 20s and has a good grasp of English and an easy smile. The simple yet well appointed rooms have electric hot water kettles, toothbrushes and paste, kimonos, lounge areas near the balcony and elegant tatami mats. Even the simplest hotel in Japan typically provides its version of bare essentials, which include a toothbrush and paste and usually a loofah of sorts.

We settle into our rooms and venture up to the top of the mountain to see the Mitake Shrine. According to Japanese legend, the shrine was erected more than 2,000 years ago under the reign of mythical Emperor Sujin. In spite of the many wolf drawings on the way up and two big wolf statues at the entrance to the main shrine, it isn’t until another visitor near the top tells us the shrine is dedicated to wolves that the references sink in. In our defense, there are drawings of all kinds of animals throughout Japan so it’s easy to get confused. Cold from the rain, we return to the ryokan and don our fresh kimonos for dinner. There is much to kimono etiquette, but you can avoid the most glaring mistake simply by crossing the left side over the right —right over left is for the deceased.

Downstairs, dinner is set and ready at seven as promised.

It’s another multicourse meal of mostly unknown delights.

We dine and laugh in our kimonos, reflect on the night in Golden Gai and our time in Japan so far. “It feels so good to be up here,” Theo says, and we all agree. We finish dinner and prepare for our baths in one of two large circular tubs, approximately nine feet across, of cypress wood. The warm water is relaxing and apparently a sedative because soon after, we all drift off o sleep.

In the morning we have breakfast and part ways. They’re headed for the city, Ron and I for Hakone, another mountain town. Known for its onsens — hot-spring bathhouses — Hakone is a popular destination for work-worn residents of Tokyo. From the train we take the bus up the mountain to the minimalist yet luxe, modern Nest Inn Hakone.

Because onsens were once a meeting place for often heavily tattooed members of the Yakuza crime syndicate, tattoos are now widely prohibited in onsens. And not just gang tattoos but even “trendy fashion tattoos,” my friend Tomo had explained. Having several of the latter myself, I am dismayed to discover that rule indeed applies, even at this contemporary inn. I skirt the rules this time, though, as the property is essentially a ghost town during our stay. Peering into the ladies’ onsen and finding no one in sight, I break my obedient streak and take a dip. The sulfuric hot springs make my body buoyant and I float in the expansive pool alone, gazing through the windows at the cloud-cloaked mountains in the distance. We’ve reached the end of our trip and it all feels too sudden. In the morning before breakfast I slip out again for a secret solo bath, and then we are on our way home. m

Clockwise from top left: View from the bedroom at Komadori Sanso; the Nest Inn Hakone; an alley on Mount Mitake; an onsen at Nest Inn Hakone.

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L ET US S EASON Y OUR N EXT E VENT

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SEASONAL

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All Seasons

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C

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O M P A N Y

415-383-9355

2 0 1 Sem i n a r y Dr i ve, Mi ll Va lley, CA 94941 www.allseasonscatering.com

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Out & About

A R O U N D U P O F T H E H O T T E S T L O C A L E V E N T S , S O C I A L G AT H E R I N G S A N D P L A C E S T O E AT

MUSEUMS

SFMOMA LISTING ON PAGE 72

Wild ArugulabySalad Forethought René Magritte

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Calendar

E D I T E D B Y C A L I N VA N PA R I S

JUL 14–AUG 5 Pericles The Prince of Tyre embarks on a series of tribulations in an effort to find comfort, love and wisdom in this Shakespearean tale of adventure and passion. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

MUSIC JUL 15–21 Valley of the Moon Music Festival Take a musical journey to Vienna, with a program of works composed in the region, accompanied this year by the inaugural Blattner Lecture Series, featuring worldrenowned experts in the fields of music and hi tory — and, of course, local wine. Hanna Center Auditorium (Sonoma). 888.596.1027, valleyofthemoonmusicfestival.org THEATER THRU JUL 7 In Braunau Progressives Sarah and Justin head to Braunau, Austria — the birthplace of Adolf Hitler — with a plan to lease the dictator’s childhood home and convert it into a bed-and-dinner.

Strand Theater (SF).

415.677.9596, sfplayhouse.org

THRU JUL 8 Hamlet Murder, madness and ghostly visitations plague the Prince of Denmark in the famed Shakespeare tragedy, presented alfresco.

Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org JUL 10–22 FURY Factory Festival Don't miss foolsFURY's biannual gathering of

collaborative theatermakers from around the country. Two main stage shows and nine works-in-progress are off red over a two-week period, as audiences travel to four different venues, including The Flight Deck in Oakland, to take it all in.

Various locations (Bay Area). 415.685.3665, foolsfury.org

JUL 12–AUG 12 Savannah Sipping Society In this comedy, four unique Southern women, all needing to escape the mundanity of their daily lives, are brought together by an impromptu happy hour, together deciding it’s time to reclaim some enthusiasm for life.

Barn Theatre (Ross).

415.456.9555, ross valleyplayers.com

JUL 17–29 A Thousand Splendid Suns Based on the international best-selling novel by Khaled Hosseini, this play tells a story of three generations of Afghan women whose lives are intertwined and of the war-torn streets of modern-day Kabul.

Geary Theater (SF).

415.439.2424, act-sf.org JUL 19–AUG 18 What They Said About Love Steve Budd presents a solo show (featuring multiple caricatures) in which he ponders why some people are able to tie the knot while he is not. The Marsh (SF).

415.282.3055, themarsh.org

DANCE JUL 6–15 QuintEssence Julia Adam Dance presents QuintEssence,

the fifth installment of an elemental series that immerses the audience, an experience enhanced by expansive, sweeping views of the West Marin hills. Big Mesa Farmstead (West Marin). 415.235.0605, juliaadamdance.com JUL 12–AUG 5 Still Standing Joe Goode's latest dance theater work blends his signature combination of movement, word, song and audience interaction exploring how we find resilience and the ability to persist and reinvent. The HaasLilienthal House (SF). joegoode.org JUL 20–28 Summer Sampler Audiences are invited to experience the ODC dancers’ dynamic nature in an exciting range of choreographic styles.

ODC Theater (SF).

415.863.9834, odc.dance

COMEDY JUL 21 Michael Blackson Join Michael Blackson on his #WithAllDueRespect IHaveNoRespectTour and discover why he

MARGO MORITZ

T H E AT E R / CO M E DY / M U S I C / M U S E U M S / E V E N T S / F I L M / TA L K S

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is called one of the most original stand-up comics in the country.

The Masonic (SF).

415.776.7457, sfmasonic.com

MUSIC THRU JUL 1 Ring San Francisco Opera presents Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle, Der Ring des Nibelungen (The Ring of the Nibelung) — one of the most ambitious works of the genre ever conceived. War Memorial Opera House (SF).

415.864.3330, sfopera.com THRU SEPT 19 Broadway Under the Stars in Sonoma Valley A series of awardwinning concerts featuring accomplished Broadway and Hollywood performers under the stars. Jack London State Historic Park (Glen Ellen). bestnightever.org JUL 6 The Edge Rides Again Dance Party The Edge gets back together for an evening of danceable jams. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.3850, sweetwater musichall.com JUL 6–7 Stroll Down Penny Lane The band pays homage to Paul McCartney with a multimedia extravaganza featuring songs from McCartney’s whole career — from the Beatles to his later solo work — performed by some of the Bay Area’s most sought-after musicians. Bellevue Club (Oakland). bellevueclub.com

JUL 12 Brit Floyd: The World’s Greatest Pink Floyd Show Brit Floyd presents Discovery, a three-hour chronological performance spanning Pink Floyd’s entire output.

The Warfield (SF).

415.345.0900, the warfieldtheatre.com JUL 14 Henry Kapono and Special Guest Johnny Valentine The vocalist, guitarist, songwriter and composer joins Hawaiian performer Johnny Valentine for an evening of tropical tunes.

Enjoy a preconcert hula dance performance from Hula On. Part of the annual Summer Nights Outdoor Music Series. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael).

415.444.8000, marinjcc.org JUL 19–21 Il re pastore Merola Opera Program presents one of Mozart’s early works, which features a string of arias exploring the dueling nature of love versus duty. San Francisco Conservatory of Music (SF). 415.864.3330, merola.org JUL 21 Royal Jelly Jive Petaluma’s own Royal Jelly Jive brings its brand of funky soul to San Rafael, accompanied by an opening act, kid zone and dinner from the Epicurean Group. Part of the annual Summer Nights Outdoor Music Series.

Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org JUL 27–28 Mostly Broadway Star of Wicked, The Light in the Piazza, and Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, David Burnham comes to San Francisco for

PLEASE save the date for Michelle Schmitt’s PLEASE save the for Michelle Schmitt’s September 13thdate Birthday Benefit show.

The boss lady is turningSeptember 60 & wants to put some smiles on the faces Benefit of a lot of sickshow. kids in hospitals in the SF/Bay 13th Birthday

Area. 100% of all proceeds will go to www.littlewishes.org & the birthday girl will match all donations & ticket sales!

The boss lady is turning 60 and This wants to will putsell some show out! smiles on the faces of a lot of sick kids in hospitals in the for SF/Bay Area. 100% of all proceeds will go to Purchase tickets $25 at www.throckmortontheatre.org www.littlewishes.org andourthe birthday girl will match all for donations ticket sales!

Not to be confused with 10th anniversary concert on Nov 29th the releaseand of “ St. Mary’s” benefitting ExtraFood.org

This show will sell out! Purchase tickets for $25 at www.throckmortontheatre.org For more information go to www.michelleschmitt.com

Not to be confused with our 10th anniversary concert on November 29th for the release of “St. Mary’s” benefitting ExtraFood.org For more information go to www.michelleschmitt.com

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Out & About / CALENDAR

Top Five Picks

1

What’s Hot in July

2

In Straight White Men, a man and his three adult sons have a dialogue about role, value and identity. Through July 8, Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). marintheatre.org

5

3

Children ages 11–14 are invited to the Summer Photography Camp for Kids, where the focus lies in fun and expanded creativity. July 9–13, The Image Flow (Mill Valley). theimageflow.com

Calistoga winemakers from 30 wineries converge in San Francisco for Calistoga Uncorked, an opportunity to taste and purchase and enjoy some light bites. July 12, Presidio Golden Gate Club (SF). calistoga winegrowers.com

4

Grab the kids for a family-friendly Creativity Jam that includes art activities, live entertainment, games, face-painting, sketching and more. Bring a picnic blanket. July 14, di Rosa (Napa). dirosaart.org

Honor West Marin’s protected farmlands with Tour de MALT, an annual bike ride made memorable by way of its scenic backdrop.

The 53-mile route ends with a tasty local lunch. July 21, Nicasio Valley Farms (Nicasio). malt.org

two nights of Broadway musical journeys.

Feinstein’s at the Nikko (SF). 866.663.1063, feinsteinsat thenikko.com

MUSEUMS MARIN Bay Area Discovery Museum Sid the Science Kid: The Super-Duper Exhibit! Children are given the chance to step into Sid’s world, which features fi e environments designed to show that science, technology, engineering, math and learning happen everywhere; through September (Sausalito).

415.339.3900, bayareadiscovery museum.org Bolinas Museum In the Himalayas: Photographs

by Linda Connor An exhibition showcasing recent large-format images of rock faces and Buddhist monasteries located deep in the

Himalayas, as captured by a Marin photographer, through June 10 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Make Your Mark In this national juried exhibition, artists use the loose concept of marks to create form, line and texture, through July 29 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Divine Bodies Historical art from Hindu and Buddhist traditions converge with contemporary photo-based work, inviting viewers to ponder the possibility of transcendence, through July 29 (SF).

415.581.3711, asianart.org Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive Color, Form, Unicorn: Recent Acquisitions A small collection

highlighting unusual approaches to color and form, through August 19 (Berkeley).

510.642.0808, bampfa.org California Academy of Sciences Twilight Zone: Deep Reefs Revealed Explore unknown expanses of coral reefs alongside scientists who show off new and rare species found there; many have never been displayed in a public aquarium (SF).

415.379.8000, calacademy.org Contemporary Jewish Museum Lew the Jew and His Circle: Origins of American Tattoo An exhibition exploring the work of “Lew the Jew” Alberts (born Albert Morton Kurzman), one of America’s most influential ta too artists at the beginning of the 20th century, July 26–November 18 (SF).

415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Weapons of Mass Seduction: The Art of Propaganda Today’s version of propaganda may come in a single tweet or online headline, but past information spreading was a bit more complicated, a concept explored in this exhibit through a selection of World War I and II–era posters shown alongside film , ephemera and more from the 1910s to the 1940s, through October 7 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org di Rosa Be Not Still: Living in Uncertain Times (Part 2) A continuation of an exhibition of works responding to the evolving social and political climate. (Napa).

707.226.5991, dirosaart.org Museum of Craft and Design Raw Design An exhibition that explores innovative new mediums as if discovered for the fir t time, through October 28 (SF).

415.773.0303, sfmcd.org Oakland Museum of California Respect: Hip-Hop Style and Wisdom Discover how hip-hop changed the world with rap, break dancing, street art and more, along with fir tperson accounts about how the genre provides a platform for activism and creative expression, through August 12 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org SFMOMA René Magritte The fir t exhibition to look exclusively at surrealist painter René Magritte’s late career, featuring more than 70 artworks in nine immersive galleries, through October 28 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Natural Affinity: California Women Sculptors in the Landscape An exhibition of public art in the Sonoma Plaza, showcasing female sculptors, through October 21 (Sonoma). svma.org The Walt Disney Family Museum Make Believe: The World of Glen Keane An exhibition of works by renowned Disney animator Glen Keane, responsible for the creation of Ariel in The Little Mermaid, Rapunzel in Tangled and Pocahontas in Pocahontas, through September 3 (SF).

415.345.6800, waltdisney.org Yerba Buena Center for the Arts The Open Workshop: New Investigations in Collective Form A group of design experiments by Bay Area design-research studio the Open Workshop that test how architecture can empower the diverse voices of the communities in which it exists, through July 29 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

EVENTS THRU JUL 4 Marin County Fair Enjoy rides, a petting zoo, live music and nightly fireworks at this year’s fair. Marin Civic Center (San Rafael). 415.473,6800, marinfair.org JUL 5–16 Flower Piano The San Francisco Botanical Garden is subtly transformed into an alfresco musical performance space, with 12 pianos installed throughout and available for public play.

San Francisco Botanical Garden (SF).

415.661.1316, sfbotanicalgarden.org JUL 13–15 Gem Faire Hunt through a wide selection of fine jewelry, precious and semiprecious stones, beads, crystals, gold and silver at wholesale prices from more than 70 exhibitors from around the world.

Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael).

503.252.8300, gemfaire.com JUL 14 Breastfest Beer Festival To Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation teams up with some of California’s best brewers for the 18th annual Breastfest Beer Festival. Entry includes food, a tasting glass, live music and bottomless craft beer, with proceeds benefiting the Bay Area–based foundation.

Fairground Island (San Rafael). breastfest.org JUL 15 Bay Parade One can swim, SUP, kayak or boat in the San Francisco Bay to partake in the fifth annual Baykeeper Bay Parade.

All ages and levels welcome. San Francisco Bay (SF). 510.735.9700, baykeeper.org JUL 18 –29 Festival Napa Valley Napa Valley serves as a dreamlike setting for a series of performances featuring music, dance and theater, blended with some opportunities for imbibing the region’s wine. Various locations (Napa Valley).

888.337.6272, festival napavalley.org JUL 28 Fort Ross Festival Get away for the day with this Sonoma County festival featuring Kashia

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O’Hanlon Center for the Arts New exhibit celebrates the art of the story.

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts presents Tell Me a Story, a local, juried show celebrating the art of storytelling through visual media. “Handmade images of the world have been with us since the caves of Lascaux and Chauvet — images that tell a story of the human adventure,” narrative painter and juror Chester Arnold says of the exhibit. “Although many other media have risen to express the tidal waves of our experience, painting, drawing and sculpture still occupy a primary generative, creative place in our lives.

We cannot pay enough attention to stories, nor have we ever needed their wisdom more than now.”

July 5–26, ohanloncenter.org SEE THIS

Pomo ceremonial dancing, Americana swing, a beer garden and a general celebration of cultures and California. Fort Ross State Historic Park (Jenner). 707.847.3437, fortross.org

WALKS/TALKS JUL 3 Fair to Fireworks and S'more Feast See the Marin County Fair fireworks from the top of the Nike site at McInnis Park. Rangers will prepare s’mores just in time for the show that begins promptly at 9:30 p.m. McInnis Park (San Rafael). marin countyparks.org

JUL 6 Kent Island Restoration Take part in the ongoing effort to restore Kent Island in the Bolinas Lagoon.

Learn the value of protecting this area and how to identify and remove the invasive species that threaten it.

Wharf Road (Bolinas).

415.473.3778, marin countyparks.org JUL 9–13 Kids Cooking for Life Students will learn a host of cooking and kitchen skills — and enjoy the fruits of their labor — in this class series hosted by the nonprofit Kids Cooking for Life.

Robson Harrington House (San Anselmo).

415.492.2499, kids cookingforlife.org

JUL 21 S.F. Street Photography Practice the art of street photography while wandering San Francisco with Pulitzer Prize–winning photojournalist Scott Strazzante. The Image Flow (Mill Valley). 415.388.3569, theimageflo .com JUL 22–27 Empowering Creativity Through Movement/Dance and Life/Art Metaphors This workshop led by Daria Halprin will generate opportunities for participants to find a means of soulful expression, healing and connection with the spirit. Esalen Institute (Big Sur). 415.457.8555, tamalpa.org

SAN FRANCISCO AUGUST 3 – 5

Show

FORT MASON CENTER FOR ARTS & CULTURE

2018

Glass, Jewelry, Furniture, Ceramics, Fashion Wearables, Fiber, Wood, Metal Craft like you’ve never seen before.

So Young Park

Pong Gaddi

Sara Thompson

Robert and Tor Erickson

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Eat & Drink A N I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E T O R E S TA U R A N T S A N D G O O D F O O D I N T H E B AY A R E A

E DITE D BY MIMI TOWLE

Heather Hardcastle

What’s Hot

Gluten-Free Glory

WHO Heather Hardcastle of Flour Craft Bakery WHAT Popular San Anselmo bakery opens a second location WHERE 129 Miller Avenue, 415.384.8244, flourcraftbakery.com b $$ S Í BL

Bridgeway Tartine with Smoked Trout

STEVE KEPPLE

After five successful years at her first brick-and-mortar location in San Anselmo, pastry chef and founder Heather Hardcastle is hoping to replicate the formula in downtown Mill Valley. The new Flour Craft Bakery location — situated in the freshly renovated Mill Valley Lumber Yard — is a lofty, light-filled barn that serves distinct beverages like a turmeric latte alongside breakfast items, salads, an assortment of scones and other pastries. Hardcastle’s goods are already a thing of lore, converting even the staunchest holdouts into fans of the often-derided wheat-free fare.

Along with Wi-Fi and a generous outdoor area complete with a space for games of cornhole, it’s an ideal spot for the laptop group and parents alike. KASIA PAWLOWSKA

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Out & About / DINE CORTE MADERA MARIN JOE’S Italian A Marin mainstay for over 50 years, with a menu of soups, salads, seafood, mesquitegrilled or sautéed meats and a plethora of pasta options. To add to your dining experience, order the table-side prepared Caesar salad.

Not looking for a meal?

Enjoy a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar.

1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marin joesrestaurant.com s $$ S C LD

THE COUNTER California/American Guests can create their own salads and burgers using all-natural proteins including Angus beef, turkey, chicken, mahimahi, bison or the latest addition, the Impossible Burger.

Gluten-free options and a vegan veggie burger are also available. The restaurant has patio seating, a kick-back vibe and a popular happy hour. Give the spiked milkshake a try. 201 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com s $$ S Í LD º

PACIFIC CATCH PanAsian The well-priced menu features freshly caught items and Pacific Rim–inspired small or main plates, including wasabi bowls filled with white or brown rice, veggies and a choice of chicken, beef or fish (cooked or raw). Pacific Catch is successfully modeled after the Paia Fish House on Maui, down to the chalkboard menu and Hawaiian music. 133 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com s $$ S Í C LD º

WORLD WRAPPS Wraps Owners Keith Cox and Matt Blair have revamped this “fast food” joint to feature healthy and flavorful items like a Hawaiian poke wrap and a tahini tofu summer roll that’s vegan-friendly. Exotic housemade beverages include boba tea, mango lassi and Vietnamese iced coffee. 208 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3663, worldwrapps.com $ S Í LD

PIG IN A PICKLE American Fresh local ingredients and the highest-quality brisket, pork, ribs and chicken comprise the menu of this Town Center eatery. Sauces are crafted to represent the best American barbecue regions, from Memphis to South Carolina.

House-made pickles, buns and sausages will keep you coming back.

341 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.891.3265, piginapicklebbq.com b $$ S Í BLD

GRILLY’S Mexican If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com $ S Í C BLD

FAIRFAX

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Choose from an extensive beer list, and enjoy your selection with an ale-braised barbecue pork sandwich,

Award-Winning Wines

Stunning Landmark Estate

From the winery of America’s First Petite Sirah and A Founding Family of California Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our 135 year old estate has numerous scenic venues for your next corporate gathering or special occasion.

ConcannonVineyard.com | 4590 Tesla Road, Livermore, CA 94550 | Ph. 925.456.2505 ©2018 Concannon Vineyard, Livermore, CA

Savor Summer at the Chateau!

Enchanting, inviting, memorable...

Enjoy world-class Sparkling Wines and Pinot Noir Drink in spectacular vineyard views from your table on the terrace Indulge in artisan cheese, smoked salmon or caviar Take a behind-the-scenes sparkling wine tour

10:00am to 5:30pm daily | Reservations required | 800-716-2788 ext 150 | www.domainecarneros.com 1240 Duhig Road, Napa (off Hwy 12/121) 4 miles west of Napa, 5 miles east of Sonoma

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Out & About / DINE • BLUE BARN GOURMET American The menu includes customizable salads, toasted sandwiches, soups and more, prepared with locally harvested produce and proteins. Try the Jersey cow milk gelato from Double 8 Dairy of West Marin. 335 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.1104, bluebarn gourmet.com b $$ S Í LD º

Rooster Fried Chicken sandwich

prawn tacos or the house-ground chicken bacon cheeseburger.

765 Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com b $$ S Í C LD º MAS MASA Latin American and Mexican Chef and owner Patrick Sheehy and co-owner William Eoff ocus on the ancient technique of corn nixtamalization, utilizing organic, non-GMO heirloom corn varieties. The kitchen is 100 percent gluten-free and beer and wine lists highlight local California microbreweries and wineries. 31 Bolinas Road, 415.529.5444, eatmasmasa.com s $$ S Í LD VILLAGE SAKE Japanese Lucky for Fairfax, beloved former Sushi Ran chef Scott Whitman and talented Marin-based restaurateur partners have opened an izakaya — a Japanese-style

community pub — on Bolinas Road. In this compact space you’ll find maki rolls and skewers, plus sake and craft beers. Closed Tuesdays. 19 Bolinas Road, 415.521.5790, villagesake.com b $$$ Í D

LARKSPUR BELCAMPO MEAT CO. American The goods at this meatery are delivered from the certified-organic Belcampo Farms near Mount Shasta, dedicated to practicing a holistic approach to pasture management. Try the lamb burger banh mi or the daily meat board.

Marin Country Mart, 2405 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.448.5810, belcampomeatco.com b $$ Í LD BR FARMSHOP American Located in the Marin Country Mart since 2013, Farmshop Marin has quickly become

a top spot here in the county. Indoor and outdoor seating available.

Marin Country Mart, 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.755.6700, farmshopca.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR MARIN BREWING CO. American Grab a cold beer made on site and pair it with fish ’n’ chips — in this case fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce — or anything from the all-American menu.

Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com b $$ S Í LD º PERRY’S American The San Francisco mainstay now offers its wide selection of salads, steaks and comfort favorites like French onion soup in a location across the bridge in Larkspur in the location of the former Lark Creek

Inn. Skylights bring in plenty of natural light and an expanded bar is ideal for sipping Perry’s famed bloody marys.

Valet parking is offered and brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays.

234 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.1877, perryssf.com s $$$ Í LD BR º RUSTIC BAKERY California This homegrown bakery is known and loved the world over. In fact, Pope Francis famously requested Rustic Bakery flatbread and crostini when he visited the United States in 2015. Bread that’s baked fresh each morning in addition to granola, cookies, muffins and croissants make this a local staple. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556; Marin Country Mart, 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and ChiliLime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s.

The warm dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeye roadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR BUNGALOW 44 American One of Mill Valley’s neighborhood hot spots, featuring contemporary California comfort food, signature cocktails, fine wine, and one-dollar oysters from 5 to 6 p.m. every day.

44 E Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com s $$$ S Í C D EL PASEO American Todd Shoberg is joining the team as executive chef at this awardwinning eatery in the heart of downtown Mill Valley. Built from Mount Tam railroad ties and brick in 1947, El Paseo was restored by owner Sammy Hagar in 2009. Now boasting a full liquor license, the Passage Bar and an updated menu, this Marin gem is ready to rock. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com s $$$ Í C D GRILLY’S Mexican Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner

to please the whole family. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com b $ S Í C BLD BR HARMONY Chinese Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this restaurant, nestled in Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce, and signature prawns are wok seared with scallions. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea and be sure to check out the weekday takeout lunch special.

401 Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com b $$ S LD PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal.

625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ S Í C LD BR PIZZA ANTICA Italian This Italianinspired restaurant in Strawberry Village offers much more than impeccably prepared thin-crust pizzas.

The seasonal dishes are created with local ingredients and include chopped salads, housemade pastas, and meat, fish and fowl entrees, such as the Tuscan fried chicken and roasted pork chop. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com b $$ S LD BR º

ALICIA BROOKE GRAY

MILL VALLEY

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SHORELINE COFFEE SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a smalltown feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085, shoreline coffeeshop.com b $$ S Í BL BR

NOVATO HOPMONK TAVERN American The beer garden–style patio and live music keep fans coming back to this brewhouse.

Weekly events include line dancing and open mic nights with an ample selection of beers on tap. 224 Vintage Way, 415.892.6200, hopmonk.com s $$ S Í C LD

RICKEY’S RESTAURANT & BAR American Besides a fullservice restaurant and bar, this comfort food bastion offers poolside dining and a garden patio overlooking green lawns. 250 Entrada Dr, 415.883.9477, rickeys restaurant.com s $$ S Í C D º RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials.

Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

SAN ANSELMO BAAN THAI CUISINE Thai Known for its mango sticky rice, this restaurant is committed to serving fresh, local and seasonal food.

Warm up with the tom kha soup or stave off he heat with a lychee iced tea. 726 San Anselmo Ave, 415.457.9470, baanthaimarin.com b $$ LD COMFORTS CAFE American Established in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch.

A large take-out section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home. Besides the famous and popular

Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stuffed pecan-crusted French toast, flavorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan (nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup.

335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ S Í BL BR FLOUR CRAFT BAKERY California Artisan bakery offering pastries, fresh bread, special occasion cakes and cafe items that are entirely gluten-free, with dairyfree and vegan options available. Customer favorites include the oatmeal chocolate chip cookies, decadent cinnamon rolls, flourless hazelnut brownies, and the bakery’s signature granolas.

702 San Anselmo Ave,

BE NOT STILL: LIVING Part 2 IN UNCERTAIN TIMES On view: June 23–December 30, 2018

Featuring new work by: Victor Cartagena, Ranu Mukherjee, Lava Thomas, and Lexa Walsh

415.453.3100, flour craftbakery.com $ S Í BL PIZZALINA Italian Pizzas are handmade and cooked in a wood oven; other classic Italian choices include shrimp risotto and a burrata antipasto dish. Menus change daily according to the seasonal markets but always feature salads, antipastos, house-made pastas and main dishes.

914 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.256.9780, pizzalina.com b $$ S Í LD º TACO JANE’S Mexican Taco Jane’s full bar features a robust tequila and mezcal selection.

Its regional Mexican cuisine includes Oaxacan mole, fish tacos and vegetarian

options. Black Gold salsa arrives with complimentary chips and is created using charred blackened tomatoes and roasted chilis.

Live music Thursdays, enclosed patio seating all year round, weekday happy hour 4:30 to 6 p.m. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com s $$ S Í LD BR

SAN RAFAEL AMICI’S EAST COAST PIZZERIA California A wide array of thin-crust pizzas, freshly made pastas and salads are the ticket here, along with flame-roasted lemon chicken wings, for dine-in, takeout and delivery. Gluten-free pizza crust is available. 1242 Fourth St,

An exhibition exploring the present moment through new art commissions + di Rosa’s collection of Northern California contemporary art. di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art 5200 Sonoma Highway Napa, CA 94559 707-226-5991 dirosaart.org

Details + Public Programs: dirosaart.org

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Out & About / DINE 415.455.9777, amicis.com b $$ S Í LD º IL DAVIDE Italian The large selection of innovative and classic Tuscan dishes and house-made pasta has kept locals coming back for years. Ingredients are organic and locally sourced where possible, and there’s a vast selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass. A private party dining room accommodates up to 45. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net s $$$ S Í C LD

SAUSALITO ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian An authentic Italian eatery with handmade

pastas and seasonal antipasti, showcasing cuisine of the Campania region for over 20 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelino restaurant.com s $$$ S BLD CIBO California Located in a historic brick building on Sausalito’s main drag, this is a great place to a sip a quick cup of coffee outdoors. The menu offers tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. 1201 Bridgeway, 415.331.2426, cibosausalito.com $$ S Í BL COPITA Mexican Chef Joanne Weir serves up fresh Mexican fare in the heart of downtown Sausalito. The

ever-changing menu is gluten-free, and the in-house tequila bar offers over 100 varieties and fantastic cocktails.

Dine at the bar or on the outdoor patio for great people-watching. 739 Bridgeway, 415.331.7400, copita restaurant.com s $$ S Í LD BR

The atmosphere is animated with light French music (à la Amélie), and the much-adored croque-monsieur is authentic. Indoor or outdoor seating.

85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com b $$$ S Í BLD BR

KITTI’S PLACE Thai/ California This homestyle family restaurant has been in Sausalito 20 years and features favorites like lettuce cups, soft spring rolls and weekly specials.

3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com b $$ S Í LD

MURRAY CIRCLE American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ S Í C BLD BR

LE GARAGE French Escape the tourist crush for an indulgent meal right on the water.

POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients.

Private dining rooms above the restaurant can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggio tratoria.com s $$$ S Í C BLD SCOMA’S OF SAUSALITO Italian Scoma’s boat, berthed at Pier 47, fishes seasonally and is approved for salmon and Dungeness crab, resulting in fresh catches year-round.

The menu regularly features whole crabs, chowders and grilled fi h. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomas sausalito.com s $$ C LD

THE TRIDENT Seafood Set in a turn-of-thecentury building constructed for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant is a shoein for date night. The restaurant, a famous 1970s hangout, is now known for supporting local farmers, fishers and organic food producers. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, the tridentsausalito.com s $$$ S Í LD BR º

TIBURON CAFFE ACRI Italian The well-lit corner cafe in Tiburon is a favorite go-to for bikers, city commuters and locals.

Diners will find freshbrewed coffee and eggs for breakfast and a selection of soups,

Lifehouse Presents Marin County’s First Inclusive Preschool

An inclusive preschool for children of ALL abilities to thrive: For typically developing children and those with developmental disabilities.

For more information, contact Kate O’Connor

415.526.5307 greatexpectations@lifehouseagency.org School Site: 850 Del Ganado Road, San Rafael, CA 94903 If your child has special needs, please contact your local school district to inquire about this preschool.

greatexpectationsmarin.org This inclusion model allows typically developing children and children with developmental disabilities the opportunity to share a classroom together, where all students can enjoy the benefits of increased supports and a more diverse learning environment.

A Marin County Collaborative

Pending License #214005443

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salads and paninis for lunch. 1 Main St, 415.435.8515, caffeacri.com b $$ Í LD CAPRICE California Closed for a remodel until mid-Februrary, you can book the private party room for large groups or just relax in this romantic dinner spot. Take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $30, and don’t miss prime rib Mondays.

2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com s $$$ C D DON ANTONIO TRATTORIA Italian Located in Tiburon’s Ark Row, this trattoria serves authentic Italian

cuisine in a quaint setting. Traditional selections include chicken piccata, veal marsala and housemade pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, don antoniotrattoria.com b $$ D GUAYMAS RESTAURANT Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront, it’s got touch-it-you’re-so-close city views and outdoor seating, making it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 4 to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymas restaurant.com s $$$ S Í C LD º

LUNA BLU Sicilian Executive chef Renzo Azzarello serves Sicilian seafood and homemade pastas with a Californian touch.

The seasonal menu incorporates fresh and organic produce, local naturally grown meat and poultry from small farms. The restaurant complies with Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, so all the seafood is sustainable. In 2014 diners voted Luna Blu one of the Top 100 Neighborhood Gem restaurants in America. 35 Main St, 415.789.5844, lunablurestaurant.com s $$ S Í LD MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta

and friendly service. Favorites like the cheesy garlic bread and pesto keep customers coming back. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100, italian restaurantin tiburonca.com s $$ S Í LD

of fresh salads, sandwiches and pastries on the boardwalk.

1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.797.6123, rustic bakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

NEW MORNING CAFE American Sit outside or in at this casual cafe.

On a sunny morning, the place is filled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch is served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315 $$ S Í BL

SALT & PEPPER American The sun-filled one-room restaurant, featuring hardwood floors and blue-checkered tablecloths, is an area favorite. Popular items include scallops, rib-eye steak, a beef burger and traditional crabcakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594 b $$ S Í LD

RUSTIC BAKERY California This location of the beloved bakery offers the same menu as the other locations as well as outdoor dining.

Enjoy a wide selection

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American The menu at this seaside institution features local organic produce and sustainably sourced meats and fish. Chef Robert

ON BEHALF OF THE PEOPLE LIFEHOUSE SERVES

Taylor, formerly of Farallon, has curated an oyster list for the raw bar menu and a fresh cocktail list to boot. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian Chef and owner Angelo Servino highlights organic ingredients in an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas, and seasonal specialties. Located on the bay in Tiburon, Servino also prides itself on its extensive sustainable seafood program. Savor la dolce vita on the waterfront patio. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º

HONORARY CHAIR: HUEY LEWIS MASTER OF CEREMONIES: BETTY YU CULINARY HOST: HEIDI KRAHLING WINE COMMITTEE CHAIR: SID SALL

April 21, 2018

TO THE RESTAURANTS, WINERIES & OTHER LIBATIONS WHO HELPED MAKE OUR 28TH YEAR ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL EVENT!

RESTAURANTS

Americano San Francisco Marinitas Balboa Café San Francisco Osteria Stellina Boca Tavern “The Clubhouse” at Peacock Gap Buckeye Roadhouse Perry’s Larkspur Copita Tequileria y Comida Piatti Mill Valley Farallon Restaurant San Francisco Piazza D’Angelo the girl & the fig Playa Il Davide Saylor’s Restaurant & Bar Il Fornaio State Room Brewery Bar Kitchen Insalata’s Sushi Ran Le Comptoir Wildfox Restaurant Left Bank Brasserie

WINERIES

Benovia Winery Linked Vineyards Brooks Note Winery Merry Edwards Winery Duckhorn Wine Company Navarro Vineyards and Winery Dutton Goldfield Winery Papapietro Perry Winery Estate 1856 Wines Peay Vineyards Frank Family Vineyards Pride Mountain Vineyards Freeman Vineyard & Winery Revana Family Vineyard Grgich Hills Estate Schweiger Vineyards Hall Wines Silver Oak & Twomey Cellars Hartford Family Winery Sojourn Cellars Keenan Winery Thirty-Seven Winery Kenwood Vineyards Three Sticks Wines Kosta Browne Winery Wilson of Dry Creek

Lifehouse provides support services to over 300 individuals with developmental disabilities in Marin, Sonoma and San Francisco. We believe everyone should have the opportunity to become as independent as possible and to participate fully in our community for a lifetime.

OTHER LIBATIONS Red Whale Coffee G.H. Mumm/Perrier-Jouet King Floyd’s Bar Provisions Sonoma Brothers Distilling Sonoma Syrup Company BEER GARDEN Fort Point Beer Company Marin Brewing/Moylan’s Brewery State Room Brewery Bar Kitchen Crooked Goat Brewery DINING ROOM Rustic Bakery ItalFoods Taste Kitchen & Table

lifehouseagency.org greatexpectationsmarin.org greatchefsandwineries.org marinautism.org

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Out & About / DINE TIBURON TAVERN California The atmosphere here is enhanced by two outdoor patios, two indoor fireplaces and fresh flowers.

Happy hour is 3 to 6:30 p.m. every day.

1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, lodge attiburon.com s $$ S Í C BLD BR º WAYPOINT PIZZA California Familyfriendly pizza place offering cooked-toorder gourmet pies, slices, fresh salads and more. Large-screen TV for watching sports.

Pickup and delivery available. 15 Main St, 415.435.3440, waypointpizza.com b $$ S C LD BR

WEST MARIN NICK’S COVE American Nick’s Cove offers a coastal escape on Tomales Bay, serving famous barbecued local oysters, Dungeness crab mac ’n’ cheese and cocktails incorporating homegrown ingredients. Large windows in the 130-seat restaurant

provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR OSTERIA STELLINA California Whether it’s to cap off a ay of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired and features local organic ingredients. If you’re up for something unusual, try the goat shoulder, a hit with both tourists and locals (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com b $$ S LD PARKSIDE CAFE American Perfect for a sit-down alfresco meal or for grabbing a burger to enjoy on the beach.

Beautiful patio garden seating, ocean views, and private wood-fired dinners make this cafe a relaxing retreat. If you’re on the go, check out the market and bakery. Choose from an array of organic locally

grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com s $$$ S Í C BLD RANCHO NICASIO American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from crispy calamari to braised lamb shanks, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday (Nicasio). 1 Old Rancheria Road, 415.662.2219, rancho nicasio.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR º SAND DOLLAR American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. The sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson).

3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com s $$ S Í LD

SIDE STREET KITCHEN American This fastcasual eatery with chef Aaron Wright (formerly of Tavern at Lark Creek) at the helm serves up favorites like rotisserie chicken, smoked oysters and creamed corn. Happy hour weekly from 2 to 4 p.m. (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.0303, sidestreet-prs.com b $$ S Í LD º SIR & STAR AT THE OLEMA California The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor and a delicious yet affordable menu. Try the house-made bread

and honey butter, the kale Caesar and the stuffed quail, then come back and work your way through the ever-changing menu (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com b $$$ Í C D STATION HOUSE CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Hwy 1, 415.663.1515, station housecafe.com s $$ S Í C BLD BR º

THE SIREN CANTEEN American/Mexican Where in Northern California can you enjoy a taco at a restaurant nestled directly under a lifeguard tower? At The Siren Canteen, of course.

This smart beach shack perched on the sandy shores of Stinson serves up burritos, burgers and creamy Meyer lemon milkshakes. Though the food is solid, we think the BYOW option with a $10 corkage fee and million-dollar views is reason enough to give this shack a shout-out (Stinson). 3201 Hwy 1, 415.868.1777, thesirencanteen.com b $ Í LD

KEY TO SYMBOLS s b $ $$ $$$ S

Full bar Wine and beer Inexpensive (entrees $10 or less) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly

Í C BLD BR º

Outdoor seating Private party room Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour

These listings are not intended to be a full review of the business, rather a quick guide to some of the most popular restaurants in the county.

For more restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine.com/dine.

P R O M OT I O N

Once a counter-culture mecca for musicians, actors and artists, today’s Trident welcomes guests from near and far to its landmark waterfront location to enjoy locallysourced fare for casual meals or celebratory feasts, served indoors or out against a backdrop of stunning bay views.

THE TRIDENT

558 Bridgeway, On the Water, Sausalito, CA 415.331.3232 thetrident.net

Grilly’s serves up fresh, healthy and fast Mexican food to Marin.

Everything is made from scratch daily-from the marinated and grilled meats, the fi e roasted salsas, our world famous chicken taco salad to the housemade agua frescas. A great line up of vegan and gluten free items.

GRILLY’S

493 Miller Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.381.3278 One Bolinas Ave, Fairfax, CA 415.457.6171

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On the Scene

S N A P S H OT S F R O M S P EC I A L E V E N T S I N M A R I N A N D S A N F R A N C I S CO

E D I T E D B Y DA N I E L J E W E T T

Officers Carson Ogarro and Andrew Hernandez

Dalia Auerhahn, Jen Goldberg, Elizabeth Rood and Annalise Phillips

Alison Faith Levy and John Moremen

• STEM SUPERHEROES Kids and parents enjoyed two days of fun activities April 14–15 at this unique Bay Area Discovery Museum event.

MO DELONG (STEM SUPERHEROES)

• HOSPICE BY THE BAY The local nonprofit honored 165 of its community volunteers at an April 12 appreciation celebration at the Mill Valley Community Center.

Kara Warrin, Maureen Herr, Tiffany Sams and Karin Peters

• THE RACCOONS More than $100,000 was raised for Marin General Hospital at the March 3 Rat Pack–themed fundraising event held at Corinthian Yacht Club.

Kitty Whitaker and Anita Moran

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Brendan, Daryl and Jan Reese

Brad Surosky and Stephan Stubbins

• THE LADIES OF BROADWAY Transcendence Theatre presented stories and tales from the powerhouse ladies of Broadway April 17–18 at the San Rafael Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium.

Joan Capurro and Heidi Kuhn

Anne Latta, Nancy Nakai and Anne Kennedy

TO SEE MORE EVENT PHOTOS VISIT MARINMAGAZINE.COM/HOTTICKET

MO DELONG (THE LADIES OF BROADWAY); MARK REYNOLDS (MARIN WOMEN’S HALL OF FAME)

• MARIN WOMEN’S HALL OF FAME More than 500 guests gathered at Peacock Gap March 29 to celebrate the induction of five women into the hall of fame.

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Healus Neuro Rehab Center

415.388.9945 • info@healus.com 655 Redwood Hwy Frontage Road, Ste. 225 Mill Valley, CA 94941

CSLB # 722005

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LIVE WHERE YOUR PASSION LIES Do you have a passion for powder, an appetite for adventure and a desire for downtime?

Make home base closer-at the base of the mountain. Forget about hauling your gear every weekend. Let it live where it’s happiest - surrounded by nature.

63 Single Family Homes // Townhomes // Lots now available. Ideally located in a quiet area of Olympic Valley - the Palisades is both private and convenient.

Contact Matt Smith: matt@palisadesatsquaw.com or 530.414.9177. Visit: palisadesatsquaw.com Exclusively Represented by SagePoint, a California Licensed Broker. CalBRE #01987029

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Marin Home FRO M TO U R S A N D M A K EOV E R S TO D ECO R AT IV E D E TA I L S A N D R E A LTO R I N S I G H T S

R E N OVAT I O N

HEART OF GLASS A 1970s Tiburon home gets an energy-efficient remodel that also opens up views.

BY DAWN MARGOLIS DENBERG • PHOTOS BY LIZ DALY

The renovation included re-jacketing the home in ipe wood siding. The Brazilian hardwood is functional — it’s resistant to rot, insects and fungi — as well as beautiful.

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Marin Home / BACKSTORY

T

W ELVE YEA RS AGO, Erik Larson

and Natalie McCullough bought a ’70s-era fixer-upper in the hills of Tiburon. The structure had tons of potential, but the purchase had maxed out their savings. Making updates, apart from a few crucial structural fixes, was out of the question.

“It was really run-down,” Natalie recalls.

“The list of problems on the inspection report just kept going.” But the couple and their two young children moved in, with the intention of tackling the deficiencies once the family piggy bank felt full again.

Five years after moving in, the couple pulled the trigger on a 1,500-square-foot bump-out along with a down-to-the studs remodel of the home’s public spaces. The family weathered the construction by hunkering down and cooking meals alfresco. “We moved the old kitchen to the yard and tented it,” Erik says.

The living conditions were less than ideal, but the outcome — a modern, eco-friendly space

— made it all worthwhile. One of the key features, a 10-by-25-foot movable glass wall by Corte Madera–based NanaWall Systems, provides a seamless transition between the living room and wood deck, with panoramic views of Strawberry Point, Marin Headlands and Sausalito.

Beyond the obvious aesthetics, the movable wall and the deck reflect the couple’s keen commitment to energy conservation. “We built the deck with a wood sun trellis to reduce thermal gain in the summer months while allowing for radiant heat transfer in winter,” Erik says.

Other green features like solar panels, energyefficient windows and LED lighting likewise keep PG&E bills extremely low.

A second NanaWall system at the back of the house opens from the home’s now-expanded kitchen to a private slate patio. “The backyard is mainly gardens and a place where the kids like to play,” Erik says.

On the lower level, the couple sacrificed a two-car garage in favor of a ground-floor entry door and a guest suite. “With the old

design you walked up a flight of stairs and entered into what is now our living room,” Natalie says. They added a media room, which has become the kids’ favorite hangout space.

And a narrow spiral staircase was ripped out and replaced with a grand staircase featuring Cumaru (Brazilian teak) treads and a stainless steel railing with tempered glass panels.

While Natalie and Erik had additional upgrades in mind, they burned through their budget faster than expected and decided certain items on their wish list would just have to wait.

“We called the contractor and said, ‘OK, you can stop coming now,’ ” Natalie says with a laugh.

It took a few more years, but with the coffers replenished yet again, a few of those plans — repaving the driveway, adding a patio area off the lower-level family room and adding landscaping to the front of the house — got the go-ahead.

At press time the couple was contemplating one more project: revamping the private spaces, including the master suite and the children’s rooms and shared bathroom. m

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Opposite: Bifold glass doors

by NanaWall maximize views and optimize the home’s indooroutdoor flow. This page, clockwise from top left: A lower-level front entryway; the new guest bathroom; Anne Feinberg of Belvedere brought the media room vision to fruition; kitchen incorporates a second set of bifold doors; Natalie, William, Amelia and Erik.

THE DETAILS WHERE THEY LIVE The Reedlands neighborhood of Tiburon WHAT THEY OWN A six-bedroom, four-and-a-half bath California modern CONTRACTORS Floyd Construction of San Rafael ARCHITECTS Mark Donohue of San Francisco’s Visible Research Office FAVORITE DETAIL The movable glass living room wall. “It was the center of all our design plans,” Erik says.

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Old Mill Valley Classic Brown Shingle

Mill Valley

Compass_0718_FNL.indd 2

39 Renz Road

Recently Sold Properties

Sausalito Multiple Offers $865,000

San Anselmo Multiple Offers $1,650,000

San Anselmo Private Sale/Buyer Rep $2,550,000

415.272.3799 sharon.faccinto@compass.com DRE 01036478 in the hills along with the convenience

of a walk to town location.

39RenzRoad.com

Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate. Exact dimensions can be obtained by retaining the services of an architect or engineer. This is not intended to solicit property already listed.

Sharon Faccinto $2,175,000

Warm, welcoming, lovingly updated

vintage home with character and soul.

All the serenity of a sunny forest clearing

6/7/18 10:35 AM

C

M

Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate. Exact dimensions can be obtained by retaining the services of an architect or engineer. This is not intended to solicit property already listed.

m

Find Your Place in Marin & Wine Country

David Grega

North Bay Founding Member 415.515.2218 grega@compass.com DRE 01110757

Calistoga Classic

Pending

Just Listed

Compass_0718_FNL.indd 3

$1,575,000

$1,895,000 1316 S. Oak Street

667 Sequoia Valley Road 3 Bed

4 Bed

4 Bath

Mill Valley Masterpiece

3.5 Bath

6/7/18 10:35 AM

Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdraw without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate. Exact dimensions can be obtained by retaining the services of an architect or engineer. This is not intended to solicit property already listed.

Novato

16 White Oak Way $1,099,000 3 Bed 2.5 Bath

San Rafael

Lynn Reid 415.559.2814 DRE 01164587 lynn.reid@compass.com

St. Helena

2460 Sage Canyon Road $8,499,000 5 Bed 4.5 Bath

Bolinas

77 Olema Bolinas Road $9,500,000 18 Acres 5 Bed 7 Bath

104 Oakmont Avenue $1,850,000 4 Bed 2.5 Bath

Santa Rosa

Lisa Sheppard 707.483.9990 DRE 01154225 2460SageCanyon.com

Virtually Staged

Glen Williams 415.465.4423 DRE 01910513 glen.williams@compass.com

3350 Calistoga Road $2,695,000 5 Bed 4 Bath

Todd & Lisa Sheppard 707.235.6870 DRE 01314350 todd.sheppard@compass.com

St. Helena

1242 Allyn Avenue $4,800,000 4 Bed 4 Bath

Your Home. Our Mission.

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Lori Docherty 415.254.7016 DRE 01370723 lori.docherty@compass.com

Nicole Needham 415.309.5025 DRE 01973340 nicole.needham@compass.com

compass.com

6/7/18 10:35 AM

255 Ralston Avenue, Mill Valley Andrew Roth | 415.786.6548

503 Pixie Trail, Mill Valley Rick Stern | 415.515.3126

2016 5th Avenue, San Rafael Chris Backer | 415.729.4139

Zephyr Real Estate All Over Marin 350 Bon Air Center #100, Greenbrae, CA 94904 415.496.2600 ZephyrRE.com

95 Samrose Drive, Novato Spiro Marin | 415.225.6412

962 Thompson Lane, Petaluma Holly Welch | 415.730.6168

BURLINGAME

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GREENBRAE

NOE VALLEY

393 Los Cerros Drive, Greenbrae Jenn Pfeiffer | 415.302.3198

PACIFIC HEIGHTS

POTRERO HILL

UPPER MARKET

WEST PORTAL

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BURLINGAME

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GREENBRAE

NOE VALLEY

PACIFIC HEIGHTS

POTRERO HILL

UPPER MARKET

WEST PORTAL

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ZEPHYR REAL ESTATE CONGRATULATES JENN PFEIFFER ZEPHYR MARIN’S NEW MANAGING BROKER

Jenn Pfeiffer |

LIC# 01339863

415.302.3198 | JennPfeiffer@ZephyrMarin.com

350 BON AIR CENTER #100, GREENBRAE | 415.496.2600 | ZEPHYRCAREERS.COM

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THE ADDRESS IS MARIN THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

BELVEDERE $5,200,000

BELVEDERE $3,895,000

TIBURON $3,800,000

8 West Shore Road | 4bd/4.5ba H. Carter/C. DeRouen | 415.730.9445 License # 00838242 | 01048431 8WestShore.com

14 Laurel Avenue | 5bd/4ba H. Carter/C. DeRouen | 415.730.9445 License # 00838242 | 01048431 14LaurelAvenue.com

0 Ridge Road | 0.5+/- Acre Gina Hawk | 415.497.4967 License # 01905093 GHawk.apr.com

MILL VALLEY $2,925,000

SAN FRANCISCO $2,900,000

MILL VALLEY $2,249,000

440 Edgewood Avenue | 5bd/3.5ba Theresa Spindler | 415.717.9389 License # 01073724 440EdgewoodAve.com

338 Main Street #21C | 2bd/2ba Denise Paulson | 415.860.0718 License # 01268099 DPaulson.apr.com

429 Maple Street | 4bd/4.5ba Beth Brody | 415.987.2384 License # 00657511 429MapleMillValley.com

MILL VALLEY $1,595,000

TIBURON $775,000

ROSS PRICE UPON REQUEST

62 Oakdale Avenue | 3bd/2ba Margritha Fliegauf | 415.999.7310 License # 00480436 62OakdaleAve.com

45 Harbor Oak Drive | 1bd/1ba Cecile Hawkins | 415.385.5202 License # 01115632 CHawkins.apr.com

110 Winding Way | 5bd/5ba Donna Goldman | 415.509.2427 License # 01408527 110WindingWay.com

APR.COM

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Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 5 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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Square footage, acreage, and other information herein, has been received from one or more of a variety of different sources.

Such information has not been verified by Alain Pinel Realtors®. If important to buyers, buyers should conduct their own investigation.

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THE ADDRESS IS THE WORLD THE EXPERIENCE IS ALAIN PINEL

HOLYPORT, UNITED KINGDOM

ROME, ITALY

PETITE SALINE, SAINT BARTHELEMY

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: VVXW $39,978,678 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: XERT $22,201,448 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: LNSB $19,000,000 USD

WHISTLER, CANADA

PARIS, FRANCE

VANCOUVER, CANADA

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: KJGW $11,560,470 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: LPJC $8,179,481 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: BGRC $7,639,962 USD

JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA

PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO

TEUFEN, SWITZERLAND

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: WXLC $1,019,811 USD

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: OJZZ Price Upon Request

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: VIIT Price Upon Request

APR.COM Over 30 Real Estate Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 5 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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PARAGON-RE.COM

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Since 2004, Paragon Real Estate Group’s Community Fund has provided more than $850,000 in donations to over 100 local organizations in the Bay Area.

From shelters to school arts programs, from food drives to counseling, we are proud to support the organizations that make a positive difference in our community.

Our goal is to reach $1million by the end of 2018.

300 DRAKES LANDING ROAD / SUITE 120 GREENBRAE, CA 94904 / 415.805.2900

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THREE BEAUTIFUL PROPERTIES, THREE SATISFIED CLIENTS! JUST SOLD

GREENFIELD AVE, SAN ANSELMO SOLD FOR $1,475,000

PICNIC AVE, SAN RAFAEL SOLD FOR $1,351,000

Property specialist and a native of Marin, with 14 years of experience as a top producing real estate agent, I’m ready to help you achieve your real estate goals, buying or selling. I can answer any questions you may have, and would love the opportunity to become your real estate resource.

EXPERIENCE HAS ITS REWARDS, CALL ME FOR A REAL ESTATE CONSULT!

JENSEN WAY, SAN RAFAEL SOLD FOR $1,449,000

BETH SASAN

PARAGON REAL ESTATE GROUP

415.990.7186 bsasan@paragon-re.com

LIC# 01433542

MARKETING NEGOTIATING CLOSING

ANALYSIS STRATEGY STAGING

JUST SOLD

50 TARRY ROAD, SAN ANSELMO

SOLD FOR $2,105,000

#1 LISTING AGENT IN MARIN MARIN COUNTY LISTING SALES (2014-2017) 107 92 82

“We have bought and sold houses before and know the value of the right agent. When it came time to select an agent to list our family home of 22 years, we did a search that included proven track record, knowledge of the local market, and the presentation quality of current listings.

Eric was simply the best of the best. We were especially impressed by his extended team of resources (contractors, inspectors, staging experts, escrow officers, and real estate associates), all of whom were top notch professionals in our opinion. Eric and his team get a A+++ for responsiveness, attention to detail, and integrity. They earned every dime of their commission and delivered complete success.” -Seller, 50 Tarry Rd, San Anselmo

THINKING OF SELLING? DON’T KNOW WHERE TO START? Call me to find out.

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ERIC GELMAN

AGENT #2

AGENT #3

AGENT #4

AGENT #5

ERIC GELMAN

PARAGON REAL ESTATE GROUP

415.686.1855 eric@ericgelman.com EricGelman.com

LIC# 01417335

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98 HARRISON AVE, SAUSALITO, CA OFFERED AT $4,279,000 FOR DETAILS CONTACT LISTING AGENT DANIEL M. NEBENZAHL +1 (415) 497-8864

96 HARRISON AVE | SAUSALITO, CA OFFERED AT $4,800,000

Representing the most unique properties in Sausalito and the Bay Area.

Engel & Völkers evokes an experience of the highest caliber with the utmost competence, exclusive expertise, and passion for all that we do.

Call to learn about what Engel & Völkers can do for you.

MARK KELAIDIS, GENERAL MANAGER ENGEL & VÖLKERS SAN FRANCISCO SANFRANCISCO.EVUSA.COM +1 (415) 872-7729 MARK.KELAIDIS@EVUSA.COM

DANIEL M. NEBENZAHL, MARIN MANAGER

ENGEL & VÖLKERS SAUSALITO SAUSALITO.EVUSA.COM +1 (415) 497-8864

DAN.NEBENZAHL@EVUSA.COM

©2018 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed BRE# 01976469 reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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©20 relia

SAUSALITO PROPERTIES THAT EXCEED EXPECTATIONS.

DANIEL M. NEBENZAHL

98 HARRISON AVENUE | 3 BD | 4 BA | 3,669 SQ FT | OFFERED AT $4,279,000

Make all of your life’s moments memorable when choosing to live at 98 Harrison Avenue above the heart of downtown Sausalito. This is a newly-built masterpiece with views spanning the hills of Marin, the Bay and onward to San Francisco’s iconic skyline. Nearby public stairs lead to Bridgeway and the Golden Gate Ferry Terminal.

96 HARRISON AVENUE | 4 BD | 5 BA | 4,032 SQ FT | OFFERED AT $4,800,000

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Enjoy a premium custom-built home directly above downtown Sausalito with an elevator servicing all three floors from inside the garage. Open floor plan design with a gourmet kitchen. Magnificent views sweeping from Marin to San Francisco are unparalleled. Highly desired Banana Belt location within Sausalito offers some of the best weather.

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COMPETENCE ·

E XC L U S I V I T Y · PA S S I O N

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DANIEL M. NEBENZAHL | PHONE +1 (415) 497-8864 | EMAIL: DAN.NEBENZAHL@EVUSA.COM | S E A R C H I N G S A U S A L I TO.C O M | BRE# 01705660

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©2018 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed BRE# 01976469 reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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PRESENTING

E L E VAT E D LU XU RY. LISTED BY VANGUARD PROPERTIES

WOLFBACK RIDGE ROAD

665 GOODHILL ROAD KENTFIELD | $9,995,000

452 LAVERNE AVENUE MILL VALLEY | $4,895,000

KENTFIELD | $3,595,000

ALLISON SALZER 415.297.2110

JEFF MOSELEY 415.602.7272 CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881 KEN DARA 415.425.3626

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881 LEAH KARP 415.385.7653

17 HILLSIDE DRIVE KENTFIELD | $3,795,000

31 NORTH RIDGE ROAD KENTFIELD | $3,595,000

10 ARROYO DRIVE KENTFIELD | $2,995,000

2 VASCO DRIVE MILL VALLEY | $2,695,000

KEVIN BROWN 707.495.5046 JENNIFER BOWMAN 415.717.8950

BITSA FREEMAN 415.385.8929

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

CLARK GOODRICH 415.717.0283 JENNIFER BOWMAN 415.717.8950

110 CORTE ANITA GREENBRAE | $2,395,000

83 SHADY LANE ROSS | $2,300,000

501 SAUSALITO BLVD SAUSALITO | $2,250,000

185 TAMAL VISTA DRIVE

JONI SHEPARD 415.519.3213

KAREN FAIRTY 415.717.7586

DAVE DUPONT 415.867.6611

TROY LUCHESSI 415.902-8769

SAUSALITO | $10,000,000

447 PALM AVENUE

SAN RAFAEL | $1,757,000

MARIN OFFICES 352 Miller Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 | 1118 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 DRE# 01486075 | vanguardproperties.com

S A N

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EXCEPTIONAL KENT WOODLANDS VIEW ESTATE 665 GOODHILL ROAD Offered at $9,995,000 665Goodhill.com Design Features Include § 6 Bedrooms | 6 Full, 3 Half Baths § Exceptional Views of Mt. Tamalpais &

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SF Bay § Formal Living Room § Formal Dining Room § Chef’s Kitchen with Center Island +

Great Room § Quintessential California Indoor +

Outdoor Living § Infinity Pool + Spa + Outdoor Fireplace § Rebuilt in 2007 with Additions in 2013 § 3-Car Attached Garage

Jeff Moseley

415.602.7272 jeff@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 0193925

Chelsea E. Ialeggio

415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

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STUNNING KENT WOODLANDS VIEW PROPERTY 31 NORTH RIDGEWOOD ROAD Offered at $3,595,000 31NorthRidgewood.com Design Features Include: § 4bdrm/4ba (3/1) § 3290 sq. ft. (as per appraisal report) § .85 acre lot § Walnut flooring in all main rooms § Dual pane Anderson windows and doors § Expansive Kitchen with center island, bar seating, granite counter tops, stainless steel appliances § Living room features high, vaulted ceilings and large picture windows framing Mt. Tam views § Master Bedroom with private balcony § Spa-style master bath with a sunken tub and soaring windows and Mt. Tam views § Attached 2 car garage § Yard with level lawn, outdoor patio & dining area § Mature Fig, Apple, Pear, Loquat & Lemon trees § Award Winning Schools K-12 § Surrounded by open space trails for running, hiking & biking

Bitsa Freeman bitsa@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01143971

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PERFECTION IN SAN RAFAEL 61 VISTA MARIN DRIVE Offered at $1,150,000 61VistaMarin.com Design Features Include § 4 Bedrooms / 2.5 bathrooms § Exceptional Verdant Views § Formal Living Room + Dining Room § New carpeting and paint § Multiple windows throughout bring in sun + outlooks § Gourmet kitchen with new stainless appliances + island + breakfast area § Laundry Room § 2-Car Attached Garage § Lush Vista Marin Association common grounds § Conveniently located to 101, Farmer’s Market, shopping, schools, & restaurants

Chelsea E. Ialeggio

415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

Rachel Percival

415.933.7681 rachel@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 0904109

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ELEGANCE ABOUNDS IN KENTFIELD 447 PALM AVENUE Offered at $3,595,000 447PalmAvenue.com Design Features Include § 5 Bedrooms § 3 Bathrooms § Spacious Master Suite with Fireplace § Kitchen + Great Room § Formal Living Room § Level Lawn + Expansive Decks § Wine Room § 2-Car Attached Garage § Conveniently close to shopping, restaurants, and commuter access

Chelsea E. Ialeggio

415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

Leah Karp

415.385.7653 leah@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 0182362

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BREATHTAKING VIEWS + STYLE IN CORTE MADERA 13 FAIRVIEW AVENUE Offered at $1,849,000 13Fairview.com

Design Features Include: § 4 Bedrooms § 2.5 Baths § Master Suite with Private Deck § Decks + Fire Pit + Hot Tub § Enclosed Front Yard + Lawn Area § Exceptional Views of Mt. Tamalpais & Surrounding Hills § Eat-In Kitchen + Formal Dining Room § 2-Car Attached Garage § Abundant Storage § Close proximity to SF, Larkspur Ferry, Schools, Restaurants, & Shopping

Chelsea E. Ialeggio

415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

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INDOOR + OUTDOOR PERFECTION IN MILL VALLEY

100 LEHMAN LANE Offered at $1,695,000 100lehman.com Design Features Include § 3 Bedrooms § 2 Full Baths § 1 Bedroom | 1 Bath In-Law Unit § Expansive Deck + Level Lawn § Spacious Master Suite + Walk-In Closet § Mt. Tamalpais Views § Open Kitchen with Ample Storage § Close proximity to schools, restaurants,

downtown Mill Valley, & easy commute location

Chelsea E. Ialeggio

415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

Co-listed with

Howard Wynn Pacific Union International

415.828.9966 howard@howardwynn.com DRE# 01211772

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KENTFIELD LIVING 17 Hillside Avenue | Kentfield Offered at $3,795,000 § 5 Bedroom / 5 Bath Home with Pool § Perfect for Indoor / Outdoor Entertaining

Kevin Brown

707.495.5046 kevinbrown@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01979009

Jennifer Bowman

415.717.8950 jennifer@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01933147

SUNNY MILL VALLEY SANCTUARY 2 Vasco Drive | Scott Valley Offered at $2,695,000 § 4 Bedroom / 3 Bath § Panoramic Views § Guest / Au Pair Suite with Separate Entrance

Clark Goodrich

415.717.0283 clarkgoodrich@gmail.com DRE# 01329144

Jennifer Bowman

415.717.8950 jennifer@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01933147

WINE COUNTRY VACATION ESTATE 5656 Tre Monte Lane | Healdsburg Offered at $4,500,000 § 45-acre Wine Country Gated Estate § Approximately 10-acres Plantable § Main House 4 Bedroom / 2 Bath § Guest House 2 Bedroom / 1 Bath § 378-bottle Climate Controlled Wine Cellar § Indoor / Outdoor Exercise Room § Infinity-edge Pool

Eric Braun

415.948.3587 eric@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01366258

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Celebrating 26 Years

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Welcome Amy Diller

Pacific Union and Ed Lynch are pleased to welcome Amy Diller to our Novato Office.

Amy Diller Luxury Property Specialist 415 716 1659 amysellsre@yahoo.com amydiller.pacificunion.com License # 01297467

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4 Via Vandyke, Mill Valley

138 Madrona Avenue, Belvedere

$3,895,000

$3,295,000

This outstanding Mill Valley residence is one of only four homes in an exclusive, gated enclave of high-end custom estates.

The +-4,345 square foot 4 bedroom, 3.5 bathroom home offers sweeping bay and San Francisco views. Yoga, hike and bike right in your own resort like experience at home. Perfectly site placed on a very private, sunny +-4/10ths of an acre lot.

One of Belvedere Island’s most bespoke homes is available to the most discerning of buyers. Beautifully updated with chic, timeless finishes throughout. The heart of the home is a grand scale, open great room with large, exterior living spaces on both sides! Sweeping lagoon views are enjoyed from most rooms. 4 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms with +-3,577 square feet on +-2/10ths of an acre.

4ViaVandyke.com

138Madrona.com

Tracy McLaughlin has been Marin County’s single top producing agent every single year since 2005. If you are considering selling your home, or buying one, please contact Tracy on her cell at 415.699.6680 or email her at Tracy@TracyMcLaughlin.com.

Tracy gives a percentage of every closing to Marin’s Center for Domestic Peace, which has provided safe housing for women and children in Marin County for the past 41 years.

TracyMcLaughlin.com 285 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 • Tel: 415.699.6680 • Tracy@TracyMcLaughlin.com • License CA #01209397 • Pacific Union International

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most es om ews

84 Buena Vista, Mill Valley Offered at $4,595,000

Stunningly renovated turn-of-the century home in one of Mill Valley’s premier and most sought-after locations, just blocks from the village.

Completed in 2016 with extraordinary craftsmanship, this four bedroom, four and one-half bath residence cohesively blends the vintage style of the period with a casually elegant, open contemporary design. This home is ideal for an indoor-outdoor lifestyle with living areas opening seamlessly to the beautiful, sunny outdoors, including a spacious deck, patio and lushly landscaped fenced yard. The gourmet kitchen opens to the dining/great room with wall-to-wall bi-fold doors to the bluestone deck overlooking the yard. Luxurious master suite with lovely views and a sumptuous master bath. High ceilings, distressed wide plank oak hardwood floors throughout, and a fourth bedroom with a private entrance.

Immediately accessible to the finest schools, parks and amenities Mill Valley has to offer. This gem of a home is a must-see! 84BuenaVista.com

Howard Wynn Broker Associate Luxury Property Professional

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415 828 9966 Howard@HowardWynn.com www.HowardWynn.com License # 012117722

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EXCEPTIONAL LISTINGS ON THE BELVEDERE/TIBURON PENINSULA

89 West Shore Rd, Belvedere Island Offered at $7,995,000

34 Linda Vista, Tiburon “The Castle�

Offered at $2,750,000

Waterfront home with boat dock & stunning views of SF, Bay, GGB & Mt. Tam. Rebuilt in 2007/08 with the highest quality finishes throughout.

4BR/3.5Ba, elevator, solar, 3 boat lifts, two-car garage & much more.

Own a slice of Tiburon history. Updated 4 BR home with level yard, workshop, wine cellar and views of GGB, SF & Angel Island. A true period piece circa 1890, in quiet, sunny Lyford Cove.

David Schwartz Broker Associate

Lauren Ramsey Luxury Property Specialist

415 412 2236 tiburnrealtor@gamil.com License # 00570060

415 450 5955 laurenramsey22@gmail.com License # 01796177

Exceptional Stinson Beach Home Classic Stinson Beach Home boasts southern exposure, privacy, location, and stellar ocean views. There is an upstairs one bedroom, one bath, living room and main kitchen with an expansive wrap around ocean view deck while the downstairs offers a bedroom, bonus room, entertaining kitchen, family room and one bath. The downstairs level opens to a hot tub patio, outdoor shower, private garden, multi use deck and sprawling terraced yard. Enjoy sunrise views over Mt. Tam and Sunsets over Duxbury reef from a variety of sitting and dining areas both in the house and around the gardens. Highly coveted with a large street to street lot that is just under a 1/2 acre, 2 driveways and gated stairway access.

131 Buena Vista, Stinson Beach, Listed for $1,895,000, 131buenavista.com

SARAH NANCY BUTLER (415) 868-0717 | DRE #01258888

Conveniently Located in Stinson Beach

3470 Shoreline Highway, Stinson Beach, CA 94970, oceanicrealty.com

Specializing in Sales, Vacation Rentals, and Property Management in Stinson Beach.

118 J U LY 2 0 1 8 M A R I N

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EXQUISITE KNOLL TOP ESTATE | 274 OAK AVE, SAN ANSELMO | $4,495,000 | 274Oak.com Victorian-style home, new in 1983, and remodeled to the “tens.” Magical 1.5-acre estate, five en suite bedrooms, formal living and dining rooms which overlook the wrap-around porch and covered pergola. Mt Tam & Seminary views. Two legal guest cottages.

Bill Johnson, Broker Associate

Broker Associate | Coldwell Banker Top 1% Northern CA 415.302.5690 | Bill@GotHomes.com | GotHomes.com | Cal BRE #00688853

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

PARAGON MARIN IS CONTINUING TO GROW! We would like to extend a warm welcome

to Drew

Hubrig as the newest member of our Paragon Marin office!

As a top producing agent in Marin, Drew has a reputation for providing exemplary service to his many clients. With that level of dedication to his clients, and goals to further build his business, Drew is the perfect fit for Paragon’s dynamic environment.

We are thrilled to have him join us in raising the standard of excellence in Marin County real estate.

415.571.4984 / dhubrig@paragon-re.com / LIC# 01934163

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Petaluma | $2,600,000 This stunning, recently updated, West Petaluma, single-story home sits on approx. eight acres with a two-stall barn and much more!

Doug Hecker 707.484.6408 | dhecker@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01347843

San Rafael | $4,850,000 5br/5ba spectacular private waterfront estate with stunning views.

Santa Rosa | $1,950,000 3br/3ba, nearly 1-acre, mid-century home w/detached 2nd dwelling.

Hedi Katz 415.464.3325 | hedi.katz@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01981643

Dan Mayer 707.364.1581 | dan.mayer@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01874456

San Rafael | $1,225,000 4br/3ba home in a private cul-de-sac w/views of the Bay. Terri Dawson & Scott Cherry 415.257.2062 | 415.257.2000 CalRE #01152254 | 00483672

COLDWELL BANKER RESIDENTIAL BROKERAGE

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Petaluma | $1,025,000 4br/3ba beautiful home in the desirable Victoria neighborhood.

Doug Hecker 707.484.6408 | dhecker@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01347843

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San Francisco | $2,895,000 Rare three unit building on a quiet Marina corner.

San Rafael | $1,900,000 3br/2ba fabulous single-level Forbes gem.

Bart Pate 415.444.6534 | Bart.Pate@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01900188

Hedi Katz 415.464.3325 | hedi.katz@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01981643

Mill Valley | $1,395,000 3br/3ba peaceful & private retreat with Mt. Tam views.

San Rafael | $998,000 Fabulous 4 bed and 2 bath home in desirable East San Rafael.

Kerry Rose 415.601.1446 | kerry.rose@cbnorcal.com CalRE #02024634

Candy Grippi 415.250.9154 | cgrippi@cbnorcal.com CalRE #00685646

San Rafael | $899,000 Charming 4br/2ba rancher w/open floor plan & hardwood floors.

Mill Valley | $899,000 Beautiful Mill Valley move-in ready 3br/2.5ba townhome.

Sean Perkins 415.426.8369 | sean.perkins@cbnorcal.com CalRE #02007561

Greg Corvi 415.548.3245 | greg.corvi@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01314816

COLDWELLBANKERLUXURY.COM

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Novato | $750,000 Updated, 1-level 3br/2ba home - large, low maintenance backyard.

Napa | $569,000 Single-story 3br/2ba w/desirable floorplan & spacious backyard.

Jola Jankowska 415.257.2016 | jolajankowska@outlook.com CalRE #01710099

Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 | atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01301798

Santa Rosa | $569,000 Step inside this open concept 4br/2.5ba, approx. 1,575 sq. ft. home.

Novato | $479,000 2br/1.5ba home tucked away in beautiful Pleasant Valley.

Summer Olson Stubblefield 707.319.5983 | summerolson@gmail.com CalRE #02010211

Marie Hoch 415.515.6040 | Marie@MarieHoch.com CalRE #01981086

Tiburon | $749,000 2br/2ba unit in beautiful Tiburon.

Novato | $649,000 3br/2.5ba updated, spacious townhome.

San Ramon | $625,000 Newly remodeled 2br/2ba turn-key condo.

Petaluma | $539,000 Beautiful 3br/1.5ba in a great location.

The Jampolsky’s 415.308.5126 David@JampolskyRealEstate.com CalRE #00948289

Shari Wilkins 415.328.2323 | Shari@NBayHomes.com CalRE #01194450

Jeff Birkenseer 415.308.9251 | jeff.birkenseer@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01364790

Trish Iribarne 415.609.1884 | trish.iribarne@cbnorcal.com CalRE #01889578

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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HIGHLY PRESTIGIOUS COUNTRY CLUB ESTATE 25 MONCADA WAY, SAN RAFAEL | $7,575,000 | www.25Moncada.com Faultlessly executed, the Moncada Estate, beautifully sited on a full acre parcel, was constructed in 2006, reflecting an East Coast New England ambience dating back to the 19th century. Though imposing in stature, the Moncada Estate is designed first and foremost as a home, encompassing approx. 10,135 square feet of sumptuous living space in the 3 level, 6+ bedroom, 7 bathroom main residence, 1 bedroom, 1 bath Guest House of approx. 875 square feet, Pool House and a 4 car attached garage.

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Marcus Robinson, Senior Marketing Consultant 415.381.7688 | m.robinson@pacbell.net MarcusRobinson.com | CalBRE #00609415

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COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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ICONIC MILL VALLEY 515 LOVELL AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | $2,795,000 | 515Lovell.com Revel in amazing valley views, a dreamy kitchen, and indoor-outdoor flow with this 4387sf +/- home. Enjoy your own private walking path for quick access to downtown!

PEACEFUL MIDDLE RIDGE HOME 319 RALSTON AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | $1,950,000 | 319Ralston.com Nestled above downtown Mill Valley, this 3500sf +/- home will spoil you with sweeping views, sunshine, and numerous nearby hiking trails.

Joshua Deitch, Exceptional Representation 415.572.5433 | joshuadeitch@me.com JoshuaDeitch.com | CalBRE #01902477

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STUNNING MODERN ESTATE 560 SUMMIT AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | $4,995,000 | 560Summit.com Luxurious gated estate offering the ultimate lifestyle in prestigious Middle Ridge. This 4900sf +/- home has 4 bedrooms and 7 bathrooms, chef’s kitchen, library, game room, office, breakfast area, great room, formal dining area, and magnificent master suite. The extensive expansion and remodel was completed in 2014 offering the highest quality in finishes and materials including radiant heat, air conditioning, and multiple fireplaces.

The resort-like grounds are surrounded by the living spaces, enabling a seamless indoor-outdoor living experience. Complete with oversized, custom, in-ground hot tub, 2 large flat turf yards, multiple expansive patios, exceptional sun exposure and privacy.

Joshua Deitch, Exceptional Representation 415.572.5433 | joshuadeitch@me.com JoshuaDeitch.com | CalBRE #01902477

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NEW CONSTRUCTION 371 LORING AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | Price Upon Request | 371Loring.com New and modern 5 bedroom, 5 bathroom high-efficiency smart home in an ideal location for commuting, shopping, and going to the beach!

Warm and timeless glass and cedar home with numerous luxury features including an open floor plan, soaring ceilings, magnificent chef’s kitchen with top-of-the-line Miele appliances, moveable walls of glass and a sumptuous master suite. The inside seamlessly connects with multiple outdoor living spaces, including built-in barbecue, for entertainment, play and fun. Complete with designer finishes, natural materials, fantastic craftsmanship, and extensive attention to detail. A rare opportunity to own one of Mill Valley’s premiere contemporary masterpieces.

Joshua Deitch, Exceptional Representation 415.572.5433 | joshuadeitch@me.com JoshuaDeitch.com | CalBRE #01902477

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NEW CONSTRUCTION 391 LORING AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | Price Upon Request | 391Loring.com Chic modern farmhouse in a prime Tam Valley location offers an ideal floor plan, abundant light, and tall ceilings throughout. This newly constructed smart home features wide plank white oak floors, fantastic finishes, custom built-ins, grand scale and thoughtful design. The upper floor consists of an elegant master suite plus 3 additional bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. The main level includes an entry foyer, chef’s kitchen, dining area which opens to the huge IPE deck, formal living room, den, powder room, and laundry room. The lower level has an en suite bedroom, wine room, and 2-car garage with abundant storage. With great sun and sweeping valley views, this home checks all the boxes.

Joshua Deitch, Exceptional Representation 415.572.5433 | joshuadeitch@me.com JoshuaDeitch.com | CalBRE #01902477

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CONTEMPORARY MILL VALLEY ESTATE 840 EDGEWOOD AVENUE, MILL VALLEY | Price Upon Request | 840Edgewood.com Stylish contemporary home on 7+ private acres offers an ultra-luxurious lifestyle in the mountains of Mill Valley. Enjoy intimate views of Mt. Tam, abundant hiking trails, and amazing weather with 18ft ceilings and 3 large bi-folding glass doors that flawlessly connect the dining room, kitchen, and living room with the outdoor living spaces. The main level also includes a formal entry, mud room/laundry, powder room, large den/lounge/ bedroom, and a luxurious master suite with his and hers closet/bathroom. The renovated resort-like grounds include a huge IPE deck, yard, newly constructed pool, custom built-in outdoor fireplace, outdoor shower and professional grade vegetable gardens.

Joshua Deitch, Exceptional Representation 415.572.5433 | joshuadeitch@me.com JoshuaDeitch.com | CalBRE #01902477

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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COMING SOON! 1677 LUCAS VALLEY ROAD, SAN RAFAEL | $6,800,000 | 1677lucasvalleyroad.com Extremely rare offering, a former Marin Designer Showcase Home of the Year! Magnificent 6 bed/7 bath Mediterranean-style estate. Old world charm and craftsmanship together with highest quality modern amenities. Stunning views from private 10- acre hilltop location. There is simply no other place like this!

WATCH THE WHALES! 2457 MAR EAST, TIBURON | $3,995,000 | 2457mareast.com Warmth, peace and tranquility simply flow from this 6 bed/5 bath home on one of the most coveted streets in Tiburon. Views of the bay from almost every room. Lush verandas and flower gardens. The ideal combination of indoor and outdoor living. Close to town, ferry, shops and restaurants.

David and Camille Jampolsky 415.308.5126 | david@jampolskyrealestate.com JampolskyRealEstate.com | CalBRE #00948289

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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5

BEDS

4

BATHS

4,700± SQ. FT.

$4,995,000

1

#

340 Magee Avenue, Mill Valley 340Magee.com

IN ADD VALUE

J U L I E C A S A DY j.casady@ggsir.com | 415.246.3200 | Lic.# 01715679

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5

BEDS

y

m

5

BEDS

5

BATHS

2

½ BATHS

6,524± SQ. FT.

$10,500,000

92 Mt Tiburon, Tiburon 92MtTiburon.com

ROBERT CRAIG r.craig@ggsir.com | 415.720.1053 | Lic.# 01258090

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SOLD IN 2 DAYS

ARCHIT

ARCHIT

4

BEDS

3

BATHS

1

Sold in two days over the list price for $2,200,000

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16 Chaparral Lane, San Geronimo

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The Ultimate in Modern Green Living Designed by Famed Architect Michelle Kaufmann.

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9

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Thomas Henthorne

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415.847.5584

thomas@thomashenthorne.com ThomasHenthorne.com

Lic.# 01892608

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Marin-Majo

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ARCHITECTURAL RENDERING

ARCHITECTURAL RENDERING

ARCHITECTURAL RENDERING

LOT AND BUILDINGS LINES APPROXIMATED

15 Madrona Avenue, Ross

$4,395,000

Remarkable Opportunity with Approved Plans to Own/Develop an Extraordinary Estate Property Rare opportunity to build an estate on a beautiful 1.41± acre, sun-filled property in Ross just three blocks to renowned Ross School. One of downtown Ross’ largest parcels and offered with fully approved plans, the property when complete will feature a 6 bedroom, 6 full and 2 half-bath, 6,376± square foot main home with media room, mud room, and swimming pool, a 3 car 900± square foot garage, plus the existing 3 bedroom, 2 bath, 1920± square foot guest house providing for nearly 8,300 square feet of living space. Project is approved by planning; construction documents are complete and ready for buyer to submit for permit. This is truly a remarkable opportunity to own/develop an exceptional property.

15Madrona.com

Barbara Major | 415.999.9706 | barbaramajor@me.com | MarinCountyProperties.com | Lic.# 00808665

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$9,995,000

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An extraordinary conclusion to a 10-year project, this distinctive property above Muir Beach presents a once in a lifetime opportunity. Enveloping, panoramic views of the Pacific coastline, azure horizon, & Mt. Tam. Completely custom with meticulous craftsmanship, the property has expansive view decks, a pool, gourmet kitchen, landscaped fenced yard plus an oversized bonus room waiting for you to customize!

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One of a Kind Coastal Estate | 36 Starbuck Dr., Muir Beach CA

Listed by Alex and Karin Narodny Call Alex Narodny for information/showings 415.847.0309

Alex Narodny 415.847.0309

alex@marinrealestate.net Lic.# 01942938

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Karin Narodny 415.265.7488

karin@marinrealestate.net Lic.# 00550056

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Rustic Inverness, Park-Like Setting, Water Views 4 BD | 3 BA | $1,435,000 15DrakesView.com

A p b r g o

Fabulous Waterfront Retreat at Nick’s Cove 1 BD + Studio | 1 BA | $1,399,000 23065StateRoute1.com

Rick Trono

Broker Associate

415.515.1117

Summer Specials!

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r.trono@ggsir.com LivingMarin.com

Lic.# 01045523

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ValerieCas

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Coming Soon—Views, Views, Views!

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Belvedere

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Stunning home on street-to-street lot with Golden Gate, San Francisco Bay and City views—4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, infinity edge pool, gracious indoor and outdoor living.

3

BEDS

2

BATHS

1

1/2 BA

$2,195,000

Tiburon

2387MarEast.com

5

BEDS

2

BATHS

1

1/2 BA

$2,200,000

Ross 39Allen.com

Tiburon Gem!

Amazing Location and Stunning Home!

Above Keil Cove—panoramic views of Angel Island, property consists of main home with 2 bedrooms, 1.5 baths, office. Separate stand-alone cottage—potential rental, office or guest quarters, with kitchen, bath, great room and private deck. “Living here is like being on vacation all the time.”

Steps away from the renowned Ross School, 5 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, updated kitchen and baths, stunning living room, spacious family room, large lot and pool. New quartz counters in kitchen, Bosch appliances, hardwood throughout, cul-de-sac location.

Valerie Castellana 415.533.9211

valeriec@sothebysrealty.com ValerieCastellana.GoldenGateSIR.com Lic.# 01324085

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5 Almenar Drive, Greenbrae Convenient Cul-de-sac Location in the Desirable Flats A beautiful blend of a really cool contemporary remodel combined with 1940’s charm, this 5 bed/4 bath home has it all. Creatively designed around the new gourmet kitchen, it is open, light and built for today’s current lifestyle. Lots of space to play, relax and dine in the sunny, private and expansive yard. Just steps to shopping and awardwinning schools on the convenient nearby path.

5Almenar.com

5

BEDS

4

BATHS

$2,385,000

Judy Klayman-Smith

415.215.6789

judy.smith@sothebysrealty.com Lic.# 00871536

641 Goodhill Road, Kentfield Coveted Goodhill Road in Kent Woodlands This amazing home has 4 bedrooms and 3 baths. The home is extremely private on approximately an acre of land with great water views to the East Bay, and sweeping Mt Tam views. It is 2600± sq. ft. featuring a wonderful great room, vaulted ceilings and designer chef’s kitchen looking out to a big flat back yard.

There is also a putting green to practice and relax on. Solar covers PG&E, AC and Tesla charging.

641GoodhillRoad.com

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4

BEDS

3

BATHS

$2,595,000

Brian Byers

415.602.7915

brian@brianbyers.com BrianByers.com Lic.# 01386695

6/7/18 11:37 6:16 PM 6/11/18 AM

Marin-McN

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18TrumbullCourt.com | $1,649,000

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251CStreet.com | $1,875,000

5SavannaCourt.com | $1,545,000

247SantaMargarita.com | $1,175,000

19AndreasCourt.com | $1,725,000

Christina&Karla TeamMcNair Christina McNair 415.613.5563

c.mcnair@ggsir.com Lic.# 01183576

Karla Farrell 415.828.1584

k.farrell@ggsir.com Lic.# 01372896

HomeInMarin.com

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Looking Back

DATED 1922

Campaign underway to bring home the last surviving full-size piece of the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway. BY JIM WOOD Tamalpais No. 9 pauses at Double Bow Knot for a souvenir panoramic photo of the train and its passengers.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF TED WURM/FRED RUNNER COLLECTION

Engine, Engine No. 9

HE A BOVE PHOTO features Engine No. 9 of the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, also known as the “Crookedest Railroad in the World.”

Starting in 1896, it took tourists from downtown Mill Valley on eight miles of steep mountain track, making 281 curves before reaching the top of Mount Tam. Engine No. 9, built in 1921 in Erie, Pennsylvania, was part of that famed railroad until 1924, when it was sold to the Siskiyou Lumber Company after the Tam railway suffered financial problems. And for the next 26 years it hauled redwood trees throughout Humboldt County before being acquired in 1953 by the Pacific Lumber Company. After all its hard work, it was placed on display outside the Scotia Museum in Scotia, California, where it sat for 65 years. Then, this February, word reached Marin rail historian Fred Runner that because of lead paint, asbestos and rust issues, Engine No. 9 would be up for auction, minimum bid $25,000. Runner and others, who’d been tracking No. 9 for over 50 years, were energized. Working with the Mill Valley Historical Society and Friends of Mt. Tam, he engineered a winning bid of $56,240, and now No. 9 is awaiting its next move into restoration and hopefully back to Marin. “It’s the only full-size piece of the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway remaining,” Runner says. “We’ve got to bring her home.”

Runner’s plans don’t lack for ambition. His and his many cohorts’ first challenge is to get the 36-ton relic 33 miles down Highway 101 from Scotia to Willits on a flatbed truck, where restoration will be done by Baldo Locomotive Works, and then another 120 miles south to Marin — its former seat of locomotive power. But the effort needs funds, only about $20,000 of the estimated $500,000 needed has been raised. Those wishing to push the effort along are urged to send contributions labeled “No. 9” to the Mill Valley Library at 375 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941. m

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A new destination to call home.

SANTA ROSA. LOVE WHERE YOU LIVE. FROM THE $600,000s

NewHomesSantaRosa.com | 707.210.8926 | 1615 Fulton Rd., Santa Rosa, CA 95403 Disclaimer: All renderings, floor plans, and maps are concepts and are not intended to be an actual depiction of the buildings, fencing, walkways, driveways or landscaping. Walls, windows, porches and decks vary per elevation and lot location. In a continuing effort to meet consumer expectations, City Ventures reserves the right to modify prices, floor plans, specifications, options and amenities without notice or obligation. Square footages shown are approximate. Š2018 City Ventures. All rights reserved. BRE LIC #01979736.

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