the field

Snippets From The Farming Landscape

food: a recipe for farm comfort

Gloria Varney is the co-owner of Nezinscot Farm & Cafe, which received the 2023 James Beard America’s Classics Award: Northeast

“I will start by saying that what people come here for is not always the food, which, of course, is always pleasurable for them, but also for the atmosphere that has been created here by this farm. The sense of place was created when Gregg and I decided to open the doors of our farm to the community, giving them all a sense of what it feels and tastes like to be on a working farm and tasting the food that is grown right outside the doors, literally.

Using a wide variety of local and on-farm food ingredients is very pleasing to the eye and offers great nutrition. These two factors, along with the friendly farm atmosphere, help drive the direction that I want my cooks to bear in mind when creating dishes in our cafe.

I asked my cook and family if there was a dish that most represents Nezinscot. Our BBQ chicken melt was one, our farm cheese and microgreens quiche was another, the tomato apple relish that is served on the side of each being of importance, and lastly, our poutine hash.

The poutine begins with pre-roasted herbed red and gold potatoes (either from our farm or neighboring Maine organic growers) that are tossed in a cast iron pan. A bone broth herb gravy is added, along with a handful of our house-made squeaky curds (made from both our cows’ and goats’ milk), a handful of microgreens from our friends at Fryewood Farms, and topped with a dollop of our housemade beet horseradish jam. A biscuit and bread and butter pickles are added on the side. Should you want meat, you would have the choice of our farm-grown chicken, ham, sausage, or BBQ beef. If you are really hungry, you can then top it all with an over-easy egg.”

Visit Nezinscot Farm & Cafe: 284 Turner Center Road, Turner, Maine

Open Wednesday–Sunday

Cafe: 7 am–3 p.m

Farm Store: 7 am–5 pm