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Jean Guevarra You, DDS

Board Certified Pediatric Dentist Cyelee Kulkarni,DDS Jean Guevarra You, DDS Jean Jean Guevarra Guevarra You, DDS Board Certified Pediatric DentistDDS Board Board Certified Certified Pediatric Pediatric Dentist Jean Guevarra You, Now Accepting New Patients

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Herons WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

A proper feature of Herons, the top-tier, AAA Five-Diamond restaurant situated inside Cary’s luxurious Umstead Hotel & Spa, simply must include the driving force in the kitchen. Indulge us for a bit here as we shine a well-deserved spotlight on Steven Devereaux Greene, the seasoned executive chef who has spent more than a decade helping to make lasting memories for the establishment’s guests.

“Just because Herons is a high-end restaurant doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy yourself,” Greene said during a recent sit-down conversation. “We like to create food in an atmosphere that is whimsical and fun and loosens you up so you can relax and have a good time.”

If there’s a more approachable Forbes Five-Star rating. A brief stint as executive chef at Ăn New World Cuisine in Cary led to him head chef than Greene, we’d sure like returning to Herons in 2014 to helm the kitchen. to meet them. Spend just five minutes “I learned early on the importance of a strong with the guy, and you’ll be enriched by work ethic, and I don’t take anything for granted,” his refreshing humility and authenticity.

Greene says, adding that he also is blessed to have a A consummate Southern gentleman, loving wife and a charming young son. his laid-back demeanor resembles actor Unpretentiousness aside, the chef’s culinary Matthew McConaughey. credentials cannot be ignored. He’s a four-time Greene has come a long way since his semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Best younger years when he was raised by a single Chef: Southeast award, and in addition to his mother in the small town of Ninety Six, executive chef role, he serves as director of food and South Carolina. He vividly recalls making beverage operations for the entire Umstead complex. $6.25 an hour at his first job, struggling to When it comes to the plaudits he’s received in make ends meet and even getting evicted Chef Steven Devereaux Greene recent years, Greene quickly redirects. from a roach-infested apartment. But “It’s really not about me,” the chef says modestly. “My 4-footthrough years of perseverance and hard work, he ultimately honed 11-inch Southern belle grandmother used to tell me to stay humble his skills at a resort and inn in the Palmetto State, then opened a and never forget where I came from. I always try to remember that.” namesake restaurant called Devereaux’s.

Greene also is quick to credit his capable team, especially After moving to North Carolina, Greene’s tenure at Herons his right-hand man, Chef de Cuisine Spencer Thomson, who has began in 2009 as chef de cuisine. Under the tutelage of acclaimed worked closely with him for more than 25 years. chef Scott Crawford, he helped guide the restaurant to its first

16

A first-course offering features cucumber prepared three ways: tart with kimchi yogurt; gazpacho with basil seeds and yuzu; and salad comprising buttermilk, dill pickle, garlic, and dill pollen.

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Smoked hamachi with kohlrabi, herb aioli, and crispy sweet potato noodle

An exquisite strawberry parfait dessert with coconut whipped ganache and coconut koji ice cream with pineberries and mini strawberries

Poached halibut enrobed in spring truffle and seaweed gelee is served with onion soubise, white asparagus, baby turnip, and horseradish sauce.

18

“Spencer and I worked together in South Carolina, so he’s a loyal friend who has helped me so much along the way,” he says.

“He sources the ingredients and works closely with the farmers. He’s so talented that he could be the chef at any fine-dining restaurant, so we’re extremely fortunate to have him here at Herons.”

Nowadays Greene and a cadre of talented team members provide upscale dining in serene environs with impeccable service.

Menus change with the seasons, but one thing remains constant: The cuisine consistently exceeds diners’ expectations.

“People don’t just come here for particular dishes,” Greene says. “They come here for an experience. They trust us to provide something special and memorable.”

Greene’s personal mantra entails creating memories.

One way he brings forth long- “People don’t lasting recollections at Herons is just come here The Art Tour, a multicourse tasting menu that showcases The Umstead’s for particular nearby sustainable culinary farm and draws from art and nature dishes.They themes found around the property. come here for an “The menu is based on curated pieces of art seen throughout experience. They the hotel,” Greene says. “I gain inspiration from the art and trust us to provide transform that onto the plate.

Whenever a dish is served, it’s something special accompanied by a small easel and memorable.” along with a print. The server then explains what inspired me to create — CHEF STEVEN GREENE each dish.”

Also popular among guests is a four-course dinner that features well-balanced dishes that are visually stunning and pleasing to the palate.

Many of the food selections feature finishing touches like freshly harvested microgreens and blossoming herbs that come from One Oak Farm, Umstead’s nearby sustainable acreage with three full-time growers.

“Having the farm so close by also allows us to access fresh fruit like strawberries and plums and pawpaws to vegetables like beets, kohlrabi, and John Haulk corn, an heirloom variety we grind inhouse to make our grits,” Greene shares.

Be advised: Many of the items mentioned in the following descriptions will have rotated off the menu with a change in seasons.

But no matter what you order, you won’t be disappointed. And this

Seared diver scallop with cured radish, white and red seaweed, and poached wheatberries

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Cured North Carolina bluefin tuna served alongside a potato croquette, Ossetra caviar, pickled onion, and a brown butter broth

probably goes without saying, but the stunning food photos you see throughout this profile far exceed what mere words can express here.

Stellar first-course options at the time of our visit included smoked hamachi with kohlrabi, herb aioli, and crispy sweet potato noodle and a signature poached oyster dish served on a floating glass plate.

“Our relationship with Ryan Bethea at Oysters Carolina on Harkers Island has been a game-changer for us,” Greene reveals. “He harvests oysters at 9:30 in the morning and then delivers them to us the same day three or four times a week.”

Second-course offerings included a 62-degree egg with grits, shrimp, mushroom, and Iberico ham and a seared diver scallop with cured radish, white and red seaweed, and poached wheatberries.

Exquisite entrees ranged from bluefin tuna and truffle-enrobed halibut to pistachio-tinged duck, lamb with curry, and Japanese Wagyu beef. Attention to detail is paramount, as each main course reveals the culinary team’s passion, precision, and creativity.

To further enhance the dining experience, you can complement your meal with the perfect match from Herons’ extensive wine library. The studious collection contains the classic varietals and appellations you would expect along with some nouveau eclectic gems that will delight the novice, enthusiast, and connoisseur alike.

If you appreciate a little direction, consider the set pairings or just ask the adept staff for assistance.

“We have about 1,300 selections of wine and more than 5,000 bottles in our wine cellar,” says Hannah Barton, wine director and dinner manager at Herons. “We’re here to guide our guests to the perfect choice.”

Top off the evening meal with a next-level dessert. We enjoyed an orange blossom honey panna cotta with kataifi (shredded phyllo dough) fashioned into a nest and then finished with frozen yogurt rocks made with liquid nitrogen. Prefer chocolate instead? Choose the bliss-inducing concoction with a 64% dark chocolate ganache base and seasonal fruit.

Herons also serves breakfast and lunch on weekdays plus a superb weekend brunch.

Service at the restaurant is refined but not stuffy. Knowledgeable, friendly waitstaff are keen to make recommendations and provide a superior dining experience for each guest.

“We are committed to treating each other well in the front and the back of the house,” Greene says. “I tell the staff every day we all need to handle ourselves as utmost professionals.”

A secluded private dining room provides seating for up to 12 people (reserve well in advance to guarantee availability).

Complimentary valet parking is available, and reservations are strongly recommended. t theumstead.com/dining/herons

The signature poached oyster dish at Herons is served on a floating glass plate.

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M

Sushi WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Michael Lee isn’t just a prolific chef and restaurateur. He’s also a visionary.

Consider this: No sooner had he debuted his M Sushi location at Fenton in Cary than he began building out his sixth eatery called M Test Kitchen.

Since opening a quartet of highly regarded Asian-inspired eateries in Durham, Lee has shifted toward expanding his culinary horizons. Thankfully, the Korea native set his sights on Cary for his latest ventures, opening M Sushi at Fenton in 2022.

“The people in Cary have embraced us with a really warm welcome, and we are extremely grateful for it,” Lee said during a sit-down conversation at lunchtime.

Lee was quick to explain that the Cary location differs considerably from its Durham counterpart.

“We didn’t just want to cut and paste the same template at the new restaurant,” he said, adding that the Cary location not

only has a different appearance, but it also has a distinctive menu.

“Here in Cary, we focus on nigiri and sashimi for a more traditional Japanese experience,” he says. “We also purposefully use a different type of rice and even two different vinegars. We import the Koshihikari rice grain from Japan and have it milled at a special rice factory in New York.”

Talented sushi chefs make traditional rolls plus sashimi and nigiri creations.

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The futomaki roll comprises sea trout, tuna, whitefish, tamago, red pickle, kampyo, cucumber, shiso, and dashi soy.

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The M Sushi sashimi sampler includes scallop, red sea bream, otoro fatty tuna, bluefin tuna, sea trout, and knifejaw.

Sea trout sashimi, one of numerous gluten-free items

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While purposely devoid of any windows or natural light, Seeking a next-level umami encounter? M Sushi provides a the restaurant’s modern interior features a narrow dining nigiri omakase (Japanese for “entrust yourself to the chef ”) experiroom, striking faux stone walls, and a long, sleek bar that ence that will deliver a multi-course meal to each person at the allows guests to watch the sushi chefs meticulously assemble table. For extra zest, we recommend paying the upcharge and addtheir masterful creations. ing real grated wasabi.

Among the tempting curated “Our menu is constantly evolving, as I “Our menu is small plates are a nigiri sampler; tablealways want to push myself to innovate and side-grilled Wagyu BBQ; and crudo, improve,” Lee says. constantly evolving, which involves six pieces of raw fish Don’t pass up dessert. Best choice: with tangy ponzu sauce, sweet baby the palate-pleasing Yuzu 5 Ways, a disas I always want to cherry peppers, fried shallots, matcha tinctive citrus-infused olive oil cake, ice push myself to salt, and more. cream, and meringue.

Nigiri and sashimi selections As for beverages, M Sushi covers all innovate and improve.” range from sustainably farmed caviar the bases with wine, liquor, sake, chamand Japanese black sea bream to amberpagne, imported beer, and inventive — MICHAEL LEE, jack, mackerel, and negitoro (otherwise craft cocktails. Try the inimitable Wasabi CHEF & RESTAURATEUR, M SUSHI known as fatty tuna).

Martini or the Lychee Lime Fizz with Traditional rolls are among Chef choice of Haku vodka or Roku gin with Lee’s favorites due to their simplicity and flavor-forward ingredilychee puree, fresh lime juice, and prosecco. ents. Order the sea trout with avocado or cucumber, the hamachi Service is efficient and accommodating, with a harmonious, guest-first with scallion, or even the California roll. The vegan bento contains approach from start to finish. Reservations are strongly recommended. t m-restaurants.com a rotating mix of sushi, tempura, salad, and more.

Inventive cocktails like the Lychee Lime Fizz and Wasabi Martini pair nicely with sushi.

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Tucked away in a busy strip shopping center between Planet Fitness and Food Lion, this cozy full-service outpost is a hidden gem. You’ll find a baker’s dozen standard taco options — including carne asada, birria, chorizo, and barbacoa — plus authentic street tacos on corn or flour tortillas.

The suadero beef brisket confit taco represents the signature taco from Mexico City.

Extraordinary Baja tempura fish tacos come topped with pickled cabbage, chipotle and crema aioli, and salsa macha. Consider pairing a nextlevel mocktail with these elevated tacos.

Taco Tuesday specials vary (check Instagram for details), and include $5 margaritas all day. t tacosoaxacataqueriamenu.blogspot.com @tacosoaxacataqueria

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NIL’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

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The delectable lamb-and-beef pita pocket burger served with fries.

The Medi bowl is filled with healthy ingredients like tabbouleh, tzatziki, hummus, baba ghanoush, feta, pickled red cabbage, and more.

Since becoming the owner of Nil’s Mediterranean Cuisine in the Varina business district in early 2022, Tan Uckan has refreshed the café’s menu and décor to provide a more modern approach to dining.

Patrons have embraced the changes.

“We are so grateful for all the support from our loyal guests,” says Uckan, a native of Türkiye. “We have worked really hard to provide fresh, healthy food that is flavorful and consistent in quality.”

Consider the tempting standout menu items at Nil’s: • A lamb-and-beef pita pocket burger with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese; • Signature roasted cauliflower with goat cheese, fresh herbs, olive oil, and red bell pepper vinaigrette; • A bountiful Medi bowl brimming

with seasonal greens, tabbouleh, tzatziki, hummus, feta, baba ghanoush, olives, pickled red cabbage, and more.

If you prefer a spicy alternative, order a taco Turco with lemon-tinged beef and pickled hot peppers or the gyritto, a distinctive Mediterranean fusion burrito.

Gluten-free and vegan options are available. Be sure to ask, as Nil’s can accommodate most food sensitivities.

Off-menu weekly specials have resonated well with regulars. The inventive offerings include fork-tender braised beef short ribs with mushroom wine sauce; pan-fried grouper with roasted vegetables; and lamb chops with demiglace, roasted cherry tomatoes, and white rice.

A front-and-center positioned display case contains perfectly flaky baklava and pistachio-laden cannoli that are always on point.

Uckan has also added a nice selection of wines from California, Italy, and Spain. Domestic and imported beer is also popular. For a refreshing nonalcoholic option, try the house-made hibiscus iced tea.

New tables and chairs, wallpaper, lighting, and a large chalkboard menu yield a warm, comfortable vibe to the dining room.

Weekend brunch returned to the schedule early this year. Catering is available for small or large events. Uckan hopes to expand the restaurant in the future, especially since the town continues to grow.

“I love what I am doing,” he says. “It’s hard work, but it’s worth it.” t nilsmediterraneancuisine.com

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Heirloom WRITTEN BY ELLIOT ACOSTA | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Since its inception in 2018, Heirloom has provided visitors “Daytime people connect through coffee, tea, and working,” a morning and afternoon refuge in the midst of the bustle that is Phommavong says. “Dinner is more face to face — a personal condowntown Raleigh’s Warehouse District, serving well-crafted bever- nection to each other.” ages alongside Laotian and Taiwanese dishes for breakfast and lunch.

In late 2023, Heirloom made the leap, transforming in the As a coffee shop, Heirloom earned the admiration of locals with evening hours from a cozy coffee shop into a full-service restaurant, its selection of traditional espresso drinks and Asian-inspired offer- complete with wine, sake cocktails, and a specialized dinner menu. ings like the Xieng Khouang Lao Fog Latte, a delectable combination But before it could offer dinner service, Heirloom needed to find of Lao tea with both cona chef to run the kitchen in densed and steamed milk. the evening hours. PhomAs a restaurant, it mavong admits to being enticed diners serving mepicky, looking for a partner ticulously crafted breakfast who “does justice to Heirtreats like chicken rice porloom” — and finding it in ridge and mochi doughChef Joshua Young. nuts, plus flavorful lunch If his name sounds offerings like the Char Siu familiar, it just might be. pork belly sandwich in a Young ran the kitchen at sophisticated and tranquil beloved Raleigh institution environment.

Humble Pie for over a deAfter years of daytime cade until it closed. service, Heirloom felt the Not one to take compull to provide its experifort in being idle, Chef Heirloom’s Lao Fog Latte combines Lao tea with condensed and steamed milk. ence and quality to diners Young didn’t settle into a in the evening hours as well. sabbatical when the WareGeneral Manager Thai Phommavong left behind an accounting ca- house District fixture announced its closure. Instead, he found himreer to take the reins of Heirloom from owners Chuan Tsay and Anna self rekindling a connection he had made years prior with Tsay and Phommanvong — her brother-in-law and sister — in April of 2022. Anna Phommanvong. The previous project under discussion didn’t She knew that in order to expand to dinner service, Heirloom would materialize, but in a bit of serendipity, Chef Young’s newfound availhave to present a dinnertime atmosphere. ability synced with Heirloom’s push to create their dinner service.

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Heirloom's new dinner small plate, crab claws

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Chef Young's fried flounder with tamarind and kampot pepper

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As a chef who finds fulfillment in doing exciting things, the opportunity to build a new service from the ground up enticed Young to join Heirloom — and embrace a new culinary tradition. Young had a bit of a learning curve in developing the menu of Laotian and Taiwanese dishes.

“It was not pork larb … it was taco meat,” Thai Phommanvong playfully says of an early attempt at a Laotian specialty.

With his undeniable kitchen skills and a persistence to learn, Young kept at it until he created dishes that sparked Phommanvong’s childhood nostalgia — like the Thai crispy shrimp with spicy and sour jeow som sauce.

With regard to the menu, Chef Young takes a straightforward approach. “Heirloom’s food will never piss you off,” he promises.

As ambience goes, he believes that at its core, “Heirloom is comfortable,” whether for a morning coffee break or an intimate dinner chat.

That comfortable ethos extends to the menu itself, as evidenced by the fried flounder.

After initially envisioning a delicate steamed preparation of the fish, Chef Young came to the realization that the fried offering was truer to Heirloom’s comfort food character.

Despite the change of cuisine from his previous restaurant, Chef Young maintains his focus on local produce and ingredients at Heirloom. Suppliers he worked with at Humble Pie, like Wendell’s Blue Sky Farms and Raleigh’s Locals Seafood, have followed him to his new digs.

Heirloom aims to “curate an experience that represents quality and intentionality,” according to Young, which includes the intentional difference in atmosphere from morning wakeup to evening wind-down spaces.

“Maybe daytime Heirloom fits some people and then nighttime Heirloom will fit some people, but both are special.” t heirloom-raleigh.com

Heirloom has introduced cocktails like the Ikigai (in front) and Gao Na.

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CRAWFORD BROTHERS STEAKHOUSE

WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

You wouldn’t know it by looking at him, but stalwart chef/res- side items that are showstoppers rather than afterthoughts. Never taurateur Scott Crawford agonizes over what many people consider mind the extensive wine and cocktail program and posh interior. the minutiae. Whether it’s choosing the type of vessel for serving Maintaining his customary practice, Scott nods to family in a dish or zhuzhing up a private dining room, attention to detail is branding the new restaurant. This time, he pays homage to his brothalways paramount. er, Steve, with whom he has cherished special-occasion steak dinners.

Virtually every place he has opened in the Triangle has been Scott partnered with Raleigh-based firm Mauer Architecwildly successful — from his popular downtown Raleigh mainstays ture to design the steakhouse. The collaboration results in a purCrawford and Son and Jolie to newer establishments like Brodeto posefully exposed space that puts everything on display. and RDU Airport–situated Crawford’s Genuine. Most recently, he Among the most striking features are a floor-to-ceiling glass was named by the prestigious James Beard Foundation as a 2025 “curtain,” which makes the inside visible to outdoor passersby, semifinalist in the Outstanding Restaurateur awards category. and a customized cooking suite that provides guests in the 24Nonetheless, the chef fretted over how people would respond to his seat private dining room a clear view into the kitchen. Walnut newest upscale dining concept, a modand black wood tones accented with ern American steakhouse that opened at ambient lighting deliver a classicCary’s Fenton development just before meets-contemporary vibe.

Christmas 2024.

“We put a lot of thought behind the Back in late 2018, Scott had andesign and the memorable experiences nounced plans for a restaurant in Cary, we’re trying to create with our guests,” but the pandemic and other unforeseen Scott says. “The atmosphere is refined circumstances stymied the project’s mobut relaxed. You can wear whatever you mentum. Once the opening date was want to wear. What matters most is how finally set, to suggest locals were eager people feel when they are here.” would be an understatement. Within When it comes to the cuisine, apthe first 15 minutes of online reservapetizers like duck meatballs suffused tions going live, an astounding 3,000 with truffle pecorino and roasted bone bookings poured in. marrow raise the gastronomic bar, and “It’s like an enormous weight the deftly composed lump Maine blue was lifted off me,” the winsome Scott crab cake earns must-try status. confessed on a recent Friday after“We set out to create a crab cake The crab cake appetizer is all killer and no filler. noon. “The process of designing with as little binder and breading as posand building a restaurant is tedious sible,” Scott explains. “The remoulade and requires courage. But when I saw the reaction from the sauce includes capers, lemon, fresh herbs, and smoked paprika, and community, it gave me confidence that things would be okay. it’s mixed into the crab cake itself.”

Crawford Brothers is a story of nostalgia, relentless pursuit, Even common salads receive innovative interpretations. and a flawed but miraculous American dream.”

“For the Caesar, instead of large-format croutons, we make The 4,500-square-foot destination eatery showcases care- crumbs with sourdough cooked in garlic oil,” Scott shares. “With fully dry-aged beef, seafood as fresh as you’ll find at the coast, and each bite, you get a nice crunch.”

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Scott Crawford stands in front of his newest — and largest — restaurant.

The sleek dining room provides a classic-meets-modern feel.

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“ WE WANTED TO OFFER DRY-AGED BEEF BECAUSE OF THE FLAVOR AND TENDERNESS. WE DECIDED TO AGE IN-HOUSE SO OUR GUESTS COULD SEE THE PROCESS ON DISPLAY. — SCOTT CRAWFORD

With seating for six guests, the semi-private dining space known as the Gangster Room is situated behind the restaurant’s dry-aging area.

Even salads like this Caesar contain a special Crawford twist.

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Amid the raw and chilled selections such as the signature cilantro-tinged hamachi crudo and Siberian caviar with crème fraîche and brioche toast, the colossal seafood tower reigns supreme.

“The tower includes some of our favorite things, like shrimp cocktail, snow crab claws, a traditional tuna tartare, and oysters from both the East Coast and West Coast,” Scott says. “There’s a straightforward focus on the freshness of the seafood.”

Non-beef house specialties range from Australian lamb chops and Long Island duck with foie gras emulsion to a Dover sole fish that’s fileted tableside.

As for steaks, the chef wisely employs a dry-aging method.

“We wanted to offer dry-aged beef because of the flavor and tenderness,” he explains. “We decided to age in-house so our guests could see the process on display.”

All the proper black Angus cuts are well represented. Wagyu beef also gets top billing.

Order the extravagant Japanese A5 strip loin, known for its subtle umami and buttery texture due to the marbling of the meat.

Steaks are broiled at 1,200 degrees, which produces a tried-and-true crust while preserving the integrity of the protein.

The jaw-dropping 40-ounce prime porterhouse, served in a cast-iron skillet, is brushed with rendered beef fat mixed with brown butter and sprinkled liberally with Maldon sea salt. We highly recommend you share it with at least one dinner companion.

A We showstopping provides40-ounce plenty of porterhouse options for everyone at the table to enjoy. rolls. recommendseafood sharingtower the succulent and the addictive steakhouse

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A showstopping seafood tower provides plenty of options for everyone at the table to enjoy.

The private dining room provides a clear view into the fully customized kitchen.

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“I like New York strip, and my wife likes tenderloin filet,” Scott reveals. “The porterhouse features both cuts cooked on the bone, which gives it more flavor.”

But don’t just take his word for it. Consider this input from Fuquay-Varina native and beef enthusiast Andy Johnson, who shared a 24-ounce ribeye with his wife, Hannah: “The steak was perfectly cooked, loaded with flavor, and not overpowered with seasoning. It was a special treat.”

Choose from more than a dozen tantalizing toppings for steaks, including black truffle butter, mushroom ragout, king crab Oscar, and smoked shoyu sauce.

Standout à la carte sides (referred to on the menu as “accompaniments”) involve sweet potato puree with maple goat butter, garlic-imbued creamed spinach, and a transcendent mushroom bread pudding.

The citrus-glazed roasted carrots are also on point. And we challenge you to eat just one of the habit-forming yeast rolls served with whipped butter, a variation of the bread Scott developed at home prior to opening Crawford and Son in 2016.

Libations like this savory martini will elevate an already upscale experience.

Enhance your visit by availing yourself of the restaurant’s robust beverage program, including its nearly 700 selections of wine.

Whether your delight originates in Sonoma County, the Loire Valley, or in a rare one-off bottle of Jacques Selosse Champagne, the encyclopedic sommelier’s library is sure to exceed expectations.

“We place a big focus on French and domestic West Coast wine,” says Jordan Joseph, Crawford Hospitality’s beverage director. “These particular regions suit the cuisine perfectly.”

Craft cocktails are also available for your enjoyment. Try a timeless martini made with boutique gin, Spanish vermouth, pepperoncini, and olive oil, or a Vieux Carré NOLA classic using Michter’s single-barrel rye and aged Madeira wine. Even everyday standards — margarita, anyone? — are given a special touch.

“We’re really trying to drive quality and let what’s happening in the glass do the talking,” says Jordan, who also adds that the restaurant’s 22-seat horseshoe cocktail bar allows guests to interact with staff and “have a look under the hood” of the bar’s organization and cleanliness.

If you manage to save room for dessert, pastry chef Suzanne Downs has curated tempting options like ginger meringue cheesecake, baked Alaska, and a rich chocolate cake. A decadent soft-serve sundae offers a twist of vanilla and Videriinfused chocolate ice cream crowned with toffee peanuts, caramelized cocoa nibs, and salted caramel.

“We have a Carpigiani machine that creates an unbelievable texture,” Scott says, adding that soft-serve ice cream is nostalgic for him because his parents ran a Tastee-Freez for a short time during his childhood. “Our culinary director Conor Delaney introduced me to the machine and took the lead on making the bases for the ice cream.”

The soft-serve sundae is worth the caloric splurge.

Full disclosure: One person among our crew relished the sundae so much, he never put down his spoon between bites.

“I eat one sundae each night ... because sometimes it falls over,” Scott says with a wry smile.

To borrow from television writer, producer, and travel documentary star Phil

Rosenthal (whose projects include Everybody Loves Raymond and Somebody Feed Phil): We should all put as much love, care, and detail into everything we do.

Thankfully, that’s exactly what Scott Crawford strives to achieve each day. t crawfordbrotherssteakhouse.com

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After years of generating buzz for numerous other establishments, Briana and Roger Kornegay — the couple behind the popular social media page Raleigh FoodTrap — felt pulled to start a business of their own.

When visiting The Yard Milkshake Bar locations in Atlanta and Virginia, they noticed “the minute (people) received their treat, the first thing they did was take pictures of it. Their phone ate first.” So they decided to bring the viral towering treats to Raleigh.

Each shake begins with four scoops of Blue Bell ice cream, but the extravagant toppings add the photogenic appeal. They are served with “everything you can think of on top,” according to Roger, including pies, cakes, donuts, brownies, cookies, and other sweet accents. “Some of these treats stand about a foot tall.”

Oat milk–based ice cream churned in-house is available for those looking for a vegan option.

Roger stresses that the menu offers something for everyone, including lactose-free and gluten-free selections — “and you get to keep the jar.” t theyardmilkshakebar.com/raleigh-nc

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Metal crafter Stewart Webb McRae, of Apex, crafted the dining room’s metal pelican.

The Blind Pelican WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

You don’t have to drive to the coast to find quality fresh seafood. Instead, simply visit The Blind Pelican in Holly Springs to enjoy first-rate fish, shrimp, lobster, crab, oysters, and other ocean-centric delights.

Founded in 2019 by Andrew and Nikki Stafford, proprietors of the popular My Way Tavern downtown eateries in Raleigh, Holly Springs, and Fuquay-Varina, The Blind Pelican showcases the creative culinary talents of executive chef and operating partner Michael Flood.

“Fresh seafood is delivered daily, and it’s mostly sourced from the East Coast,” says Nikki. “We want people to feel like they are escaping to the beach without leaving town.”

Provisions are served up in a casual and accessible nautically themed dining space. There’s an eye-catching lobster shell wall near the front entrance along with a suspended metal peli-

can donated by a local artist. Rustic lobster traps serve as casings for light fixtures perched over comfy banquettes.

The restaurant’s focal point is a stunning community table fashioned from reclaimed wood. Hovering above the table are pieces of driftwood with hanging Edison lights.

“The wood for the table came from two piers taken down during Hurricane Michael” in 2018, Nikki explains, “one from Kitty Hawk and another from Currituck.”

Salvaged nautical elements complete the décor.

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When it comes to the food, start your dining experience with some lobster chorizo dip, gator bites, or frog legs. You also can’t go wrong with a bowl of lobster scallop bisque or New England clam chowder.

As for standout entrees, consider the Maryland-style crab cakes; Low-Country shrimp & grits with andouille sausage; and cavatappi pasta with lobster, shrimp, mushrooms, tomatoes, and spinach tossed with Asiago cream sauce.

“Everything is made from scratch, including salad dressings and sauces,” Nikki says.

Like oysters? Choose from raw, fried, steamed, and baked options, the last of which come in four inventive varieties.

Lobster rolls served on house-baked split-top buns are presented in Connecticut and Maine styles, which are served cold and hot, respectively.

The Ultimate Bloody Marys are as delicious as they are impressive to behold.

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Sushi nachos with ahi tuna, shrimp, crab, and avocado

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Keep an eye out for daily food specials, which have been known to include Taco Tuesday, Lobsta’ Night, all-you-can-eat crab legs, and beyond.

In a nod to a song written by musician Jimmy Buffett, the restaurant’s “Boat Drinks” menu features a wide array of craft cocktails, beer, and wine. Ultimate Bloody Marys — ranging from the comparatively simple Lobstrocity to the four-person–sized Kratos topped with twin lobster tails, filet mignon, snow crab legs, and more — put The Blind Pelican’s cocktail program on the map. Decadent espresso martinis have become another runaway hit for the bar, with nearly 20 flavors on offer.

Service at The Blind Pelican is friendly, accommodating, and notably experienced.

“Our staff members are the backbone of the restaurant,” Nikki says with a smile.

“We don’t want them to be order takers but rather to have fun and bring an upbeat energy to the table so our guests can have a really positive experience.”

Outdoor seating is offered and fills up fast. Reservations are not accepted, but there is a call-ahead waitlist option. t blindpelicanseafood.com

Dessert selections include Key lime pie, cinnamon-infused bread pudding, and decadent chocolate Ho Ho cake with cream cheese frosting.

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Chef Gavazza’s philosophy: prepare and serve fresh food every day.

After living in Holly Springs for nearly a decade, Italian chef Paolo Gavazza finally found a restaurant close enough for him to walk to work. Of course, it helps that he bought the place.

Spazio Vino & Cucina, a cozy 40-seat eatery, represents the fulfilment of a longtime vision for Gavazza. Born in Rome, he received his culinary training at the esteemed ALMA School of Italian Culinary Arts. He then embraced an opportunity to work at a Michelin-starred bistro in a small town in Italy, a job he refers to as “the best professional experience of my life.”

After he met his wife, Pennsylvania native Bonnie Wolcott, the pair settled in North Carolina. Gavazza further honed his craft in various kitchens like Enrigo Italian Bistro in Cary, Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar in downtown Raleigh, and Convivio Restaurant & Wine Bar in Durham.

Homemade desserts include tiramisu and panna cotta (pictured top of page).

Among the irresistible antipasti selections, the star of the show is the tagliere, which involves a chef’s choice mixture of first-rate charcuterie and cheeses. This board features Pecorino and Gorgonzola cheeses with aged balsamic Tuscan salami, and speck a smoked prosciutto.

In recent years, Gavazza and his family frequented Ashley’s Harvest Moon Café for breakfast.

“I told Ashley if she ever decided to close the business to let me know, as I have always loved the space,” Gavazza shares.

“Then she told me she planned to get married and close the café.”

When Harvest Moon shut its doors in late 2023, Gavazza didn’t hesitate to sign a lease for the spot. Spazio quietly began serving dinner with a soft opening in October 2023. Early on, the chef was seen bussing several tables before ducking back into the restaurant’s jewel box–sized kitchen to cook the next meal.

Word spread quickly about the new gourmet hideaway. Soon, tables were filled with eager customers.

“I didn’t expect all the business we received right away,” he says humbly. “It seems we picked just the right moment to start, as people have kept coming in to dine with us.”

Patrons now visit time and again for the bona fide Italian fare Gavazza dishes up with aplomb.

Among the irresistible antipasti selections, the star of the show is the tagliere, which involves a chef ’s choice mixture of first-rate charcuterie and cheeses. “The ta-

gliere opens the flavor profile for the evening Caption Here and allows you to experience what the restaurant is about,” says server Barrett Jones.

As for entrees, the house-favorite lasagna is a crowd-pleasing showstopper that literally melts in your mouth. And if it’s available when you visit, consider the octopus cooked in tomato sauce with olives, capers, garlic, and white wine.

Gavazza sources his ingredients from Whole Foods as well as Virginia-based purveyor International Gourmet Foods.

“I enjoy going to the market each day and choosing the ingredients I want to cook,” Gavazza says. “My philosophy is to prepare and serve fresh food every day.”

Not only does the chef know his way around the kitchen, but he also possesses extensive knowledge about quality Italian wine to pair with the cuisine.

“Most of the wine available is what I really enjoy drinking,” says Gavazza, adding that much of the list is populated with selections from organic vineyards.

Décor is warm and inviting, with white linens covering the tables and a striking stone fireplace providing just the right level of soothing ambience. Reservations are strongly recommended. t spazioromana.com

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MYRA CAFE WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

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The flavorful som tum (papaya salad) includes shredded green papaya, carrots, grape tomatoes, and cashews with spicy lime dressing.

Open since July 2023, Myra Café has quickly established itself as a go-to spot for a satisfying full-service lunch or dinner. Food is cooked to order, but it emerges from the kitchen fast and arrives tableside steaming hot.

The most fascinating feature of the dining room — filled with vibrant hued walls, exposed ceilings, and mostly four-top tables — is the assorted floating shelves containing small toy collectibles. Your eyes will be drawn to popular Disney characters, iconic comic book superheroes, anime action figures, and much more. The whimsical collection speaks to the café’s unconventional vibe.

Offbeat display items aside, softspoken Executive Chef Paul Chaipun manages to churn out flavorsome cuisine with grace and flair.

“We import our ingredients from my home country of Thailand, because quality ingredients are even more important than the recipes we use,” says Chaipun, who honed his culinary skills at a highly rated luxury hotel in Bangkok.

The restaurant’s menu features an appealing variety of small- and large-plate options plus imaginative desserts and drinks.

Servers are happy to provide clarification or guidance regarding the various dishes offered.

Among the eight available small plates, order the savory Korean-style Bonchon chicken wings or the refreshing som tum salad with shredded green papaya and carrots, grape tomatoes, and cashews with tangy lime dressing.

When it comes to large plates, don’t miss the star attraction red curry inundated

with bell peppers, bamboo shoots, and Thai basil leaves in a creamy red chili curry sauce.

Also worth consideration: stir-fried drunken noodles with house chili paste; Fukuoka tonkotsu ramen featuring roasted pork belly, soft boiled egg, bean sprouts, black wood ear mushroom, and sweet corn; and roasted duck over ramen noodles brimming with bok choy, pickled radish, crispy shallots, and a sweet gravy sauce.

Popular noodle dish pad thai contains bean sprouts, egg, chives, and chopped peanuts. Be advised: Myra Café’s version tastes considerably sweeter than you’ll find elsewhere.

“For the pad thai, we use tamarind, which is both sweet and tangy,” says Chaipun.

Weekday lunch specials include a complimentary crispy vegetable spring roll for customers who dine in. Try the stir-fried cashew chicken with onions in a sweet-and-spicy roasted chili sauce or the popular Myra Box, which involves teriyaki-infused grilled salmon served alongside steamed rice, gyoza (vegetable-filled dumpling), and house salad.

Vegetarian and vegan options such as pad see ew with broccoli, pineapple fried rice, and garlic-imbued Crazy Fire ramen are sure to please. A handful of dishes are available in gluten-free varieties.

“We strive to be health conscious and provide only the best-quality food for our guests,” says Chaipun. “But we also provide delicious treats for those who enjoy dessert.”

After your meal, consider selecting one of the European-style homemade croissants strategically positioned behind a display up front. Whether you pick a pastry that’s studded with almonds, filled with chocolate, or stuffed with whipped cream and seasonal berries, you will not be disappointed. Note: These delicacies are available Thursday through Sunday only and while supply lasts.

Additional dessert possibilities range from Thai sticky rice served warm with baked coconut custard to crème brûlée.

As for beverages, a variety of craft cocktails, mocktails, coffee drinks, and Thai iced tea provide plenty of possibilities. We highly recommend the orange and fig Manhattan, which comprises bourbon, Grand Marnier, sweet vermouth, bitters, and fig.

Patio tables feature call buttons so guests can summon servers when they need their glass refilled or the check at the end of the meal.

“Since there are almost 50 seats outside, this system helps us be more attentive to the needs of our guests,” Chaipun adds. t myracafeapex.com

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So Hot! WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

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If you’re looking for a communal dining experience that’s exciting and full of myriad flavors, So Hot, with locations in Cary and Raleigh, provides a rewarding hotpot-style extravaganza.

Steeped in ancient Chinese tradition, the hotpot concept involves a do-it-yourself cooking method akin to fondue. A simmering vessel of flavored broth rests in the center of each guest’s table and is filled with assorted raw meats, vegetables, fungi, and noodles. Once cooked, diners can dip their food into various sauces and eat until satisfied.

When you arrive at the eatery, expect to be guided to your table by an adorable robot host.

A printed guide on the table provides helpful instructions regarding how long to cook meat, vegetables, and noodles.

“We try to make it easy for customers to have an enjoyable meal,” says Lisa Liu, a native of China and the vivacious guest relations manager at So Hot’s Cary location. “It makes me happy when I see people socializing and liking the food.”

The newly opened Raleigh location on Creedmoor Road adds BBQ to the all-you-caneat experience, including an optional upgrade to include US Wagyu beef. t sohotcary.com

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Are bladder leaks disrupting you from living a normal life?

Do you get sudden, strong urges to urinate and are unable to control it? Do you go to the restroom eight or more times a day?

Do you have accidental leakage before you make it to the restroom? If you answered “Yes” to any of these questions, you may suffer from overactive bladder or urinary incontinence.

What causes bladder leaks and incontinence?

Bladder leakage, urinary incontinence or overactive bladder symptoms are not a normal part of aging. Millions of people worldwide suffer from these life-altering symptoms.1,2 These symptoms may occur because of abnormal communication between the brain and the bladder. This may lead to the feeling of an urgent need to urinate and an unwanted bladder contraction. You may also experience a need to rush to the restroom and leak or lose urine before you make it in time.

The good news: there are treatment options available to help regain control of your bladder. The doctors at Associated Urologists of North Carolina are now offering Axonics® Therapy, a long-lasting solution that is clinically proven to regain bladder control and deliver clinically meaningful improvements in quality of life*.

What is Axonics Therapy?

Axonics Therapy is an advanced treatment option that is clinically proven for treating symptoms of overactive bladder (including urinary urgency incontinence), fecal incontinence and urinary retention.1 Axonics Therapy works by providing gentle stimulation to the nerves that control the bladder and bowel, which can restore normal control and result in symptom improvement.

If you and your doctor believe you are a candidate for Axonics Therapy, you will first try the therapy for a brief test period that allows you and your doctor to see if the therapy provides satisfactory reduction of your symptoms. If it is determined that the therapy is right for you, you will have an outpatient procedure where a miniaturized Axonics implant is placed just beneath the skin in the upper part of your buttock.

IT’S TIME TO REGAIN CONTROL!

Take the first step toward symptom relief. Call us at (919) 892-6566 to schedule your Axonics Therapy consultation today.

What are the benefits of Axonics Therapy?

Axonics Therapy provides the possibility of saying goodbye to bladder leaks!

Long-lasting symptom relief: Designed to provide a long-term solution for your symptoms.

Dr. Frank Tortora

Dr. Kevin Khoudary

Dr. William Kizer

Dr. Paige Hamilton

Clinically proven results: • 93% of treated patients achieved clinically significant improvements* at 2 years3

• 94% of patients were satisfied with their therapy3

*50% or greater reduction in symptoms References: 1. Coyne KS, Sexton CC, Thompson CL, et al. The prevalence of lower urinary tract symptoms (LUTS) in the USA, the UK and Sweden: results from the Epidemiology of LUTS (EpiLUTS) study. BJU Int. 2009;104(3):352-360.

2. Census Reporter website. https://censusreporter.org/ profiles/01000us-united-states/. Accessed July 19, 2019.

3. Pezzella A, et al. Neurourol and Urodyn. 2021

(919) 892-6566

110 Kildaire Park Drive, Suite 500 Cary, NC 27518

www.auncurology.com Important Safety Information: Implantation and use of the Axonics System incurs risk beyond those normally associated with surgery, some of which may necessitate surgical intervention. Results and experiences may vary and are unique to each patient. No promise or guarantee is made about specific results or experiences. For more information about safety and potential risks, go to: www.axonics.com/isi. Caution: Federal law (USA) restricts this device to sale and use by, or on the order of, a physician.

58 Axonics, Inc. All rights reserved. 110-0146-013rB © 2021-2024

TASTE THE BEST OF

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Brodeto WRITTEN BY ANDREA RICHARDS | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JESSICA CRAWFORD

Opening four new restaurants in a year is an epic achievement, and with the last of the bunch — Crawford Brothers in Cary — starting service just days before Christmas, chef/owner Scott Crawford certainly deserves a little rest. With all eyes and excitement on the new steakhouse, it’s a good time to snag a reservation at Brodeto, his homage to the cooking of the Adriatic coast that opened in March 2024 as the flagship of the Raleigh Iron Works development.

Inspired by family travels in Italy and Croatia, the seafoodrich menu introduces some regional specialties you might not have heard of — including the namesake brodeto, a brothy fish stew that Adriatic fishermen cook over coals and customize according to the day’s catch. It’s a traditional dish, something a friend from Veneto tells me his parents love, but you find less frequently, and only at the coast.

The ingredients vary based on location, custom, and catch.

Each bowl of brodeto carries its own geographical stamp. Creating the same brodeto you might have had elsewhere isn’t the point. Crawford and his team celebrate the humble tradition by taking the dish down to its essence — salt, smoke, and the sweetness of fresh catch — and then reassembling it on new shores.

Inside, the restaurant is airy and modern, with warm wood, Italian tile, and a substantial backlit quartzite bar.

Whether you’re at the bar or not, starting with a cocktail is smart. And like Crawford’s other restaurants, the options include several spirit-free choices that are as well conceived as the rest. Beverage director Jordan Joseph offers drinks that also play with themes of smoke and salt, including seasonal negronis, plus a deep selection of Italian and Croatian wines as well as amari.

As a rule, it’s always a good sign to spot fisher and forager Ana Shellem in the dining room, as we did on our visit.

The one-woman force behind her sustainable shellfish company, Shellem hand delivers her wild-caught mussels and oysters to her clients, which include many of the state’s top chefs. Tonight, her oysters, roasted over coals and served with butter and pangrattato, are one of the small plates, and the brodeto includes ribbed Atlantic mussels she harvested.

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Our suggestion is to try as much of the menu as possible: Share plates; find more friends at the bar — do whatever you need to do to taste as much as you can.

Starters include several crudos, as well as a variety of small plates — think carpaccio, sardine toast, and fragrant salads featuring ingredients from little gem hearts to octopus and pork belly. A selection of pastry chef Suzanne Branon’s breads — focaccia, Croatian pogaca, and gluten-free potato bread — accompany all.

Handmade pastas — whether seafood forward like the capunti with blue crab or linguine al Nero, or earthy like ravioli with braised rabbit or squash agnolotti — play with the same elements of earth, sea, salt and smoke. The seafood and meat entrees — several of which are meant for sharing (whole roasted branzino, a 24-ounce steak) — are cooked on the massive wood-fired grill that Chef/owner Scott Crawford honors the cooking of the Adriatic coast with Brodeto. takes center stage in the open kitchen. The giant hearth has been specially designed with spots for simmering the brodeto and another house specialty, peka, which is usually made with lamb and pork but here comprised veal and winter vegetables.

Brodeto with fish, clams, mussels, prawns, and octopus accompanied by grilled hearth bread

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Dry-aged ribeye with tomato and olive crust

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Vanilla gelato

Both brodeto and peka start with fire and are more methods of cooking (philosophies, even?) that involve cooking regional ingredients in a traditional way. A peka gets its name from the particular type of dome-shaped lid that is used when roasting the food inside. Crawford worked with the Burlington-based ceramics company Haand to create a special serving bowl for both the brodeto and peka that references this special lid — flip it over and it’s the perfect container for holding all the empty shells from the brodeto.

I have a soft spot for the Adriatic Sea, which was the location for my family’s first big post-pandemic vacation. We went to Venice, despite all warnings, in the middle of August, staying with a friend in a fifthfloor walk-up that, of course, did not have air conditioning. Trips to the Lido were the only way to escape the heat and the crowds, and we went many times, taking a bus and a boat to spend all day happily submerged in the dark, salty sea.

Floating is a feeling — and I hadn’t thought much about how wonderful it is to experience full-body buoyancy until Brodeto brought it back to me. That’s how good the food and service is: It feels like floating.

There’s house-made gelato, olive oil cake, and a decadent dark chocolate custard for dessert. Or opt for an affogato with that homemade gelato, which, of course, changes flavor with the menu. Stumped by the choice of vanilla bean or pistachio, I was elated to be given an apt solution: a swirl.

This is what it feels like to be taken care of: When faced with a difficult decision, you can have it both ways.

That spirit of expansion — in the service, in the food, in the space — is what makes dining at Brodeto feel a bit like a vacation itself. Given the weight of the world right now, finding a bit of buoyancy — like the lightness of whipped ricotta or the cheer of a gelato twist — is a special treat to be celebrated and shared. Brodeto makes that possible. t brodeto.com

Strascinati pasta, sausage, mushrooms, and pecorino Romano

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Hummingbird WRITTEN BY ELLIOT ACOSTA | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Years ago, Chef Coleen Speaks had reached a crossroads in her life and faced a decision: Portland or Raleigh. Ultimately, she decided to migrate to North Carolina’s capital because she had an opportunity to bring something to a city where she thought “there were no cool things.”

After years building and running her successful PoshNosh catering company, she opened Hummingbird in a redeveloped grocery distribution warehouse named Dock 1053 in 2017. At the time, the neighborhood had more industrial warehouses than restaurants. But Chef Speaks saw potential in the warehouse’s

former trucker bathrooms and set about bringing her long-sought restaurant to life.

The work that Speaks and her team did to meticulously preserve the character of the space is immediately evident when entering the cozy confines of the bar. Original pieces of the warehouse such as green-tinted tiles, upcycled light shades, and a washroom door provide diners a window into the building’s past life. Hummingbird’s industrial aesthetic is balanced by its eclectic collection of portrait paintings and vibrant accent pieces. “It’s the same vibe as my house,” Speaks says — a vibe that keeps your attention at every turn.

Speaks originally envisioned opening

Hummingbird’s cocktail menu focuses on seasonal flavors and uses house-made syrups and purees.

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a simpler cocktail bar rather than a full-scale restaurant — a destination for folks to grab a tasty drink accompanied by some delightful small plates. The charbroiled oysters, which have been featured on Hummingbird’s menu since the beginning, are the archetype of her initial vision. Kissed with char, the Core Sound oysters stand up in a flavorful pool of butter, lemon, garlic, parmesan, cayenne, and herbs.

The dish pairs perfectly with Hummingbird’s seasonally focused cocktail program. Refreshing cocktails like the Paloma — a tequila drink made with grapefruit, lime, and agave — highlight the bar’s house-made syrups and purees.

Cast iron pizza

Entrees such as the peacemaker po’ boy pay homage to Chef Speaks’ culinary journey from New Orleans.

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Topped with a fried green tomato, a runny egg, and pimento cheese, the brunch burger is one of Hummingbird’s heftier brunch offerings.

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Before long, Chef Speaks realized diners wanted more than her small-plate offerings.

A proponent of being flexible while running a restaurant, Speaks pivoted by introducing bigger portioned entrees.

The peacemaker po’ boy alludes to the chef ’s years in New Orleans, where she cooked in kitchens such as famed television chef Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA restaurant. The hefty sandwich is pure Louisiana, stuffing a generous amount of cornmeal fried shrimp and oysters inside. The aroma of the accompanying Crystal hot sauce permeates the air even before you take a bite.

While some of the dishes on the menu reflect Speaks’ past, Hummingbird’s curry owes its presence to the revolt her diners threaten whenever she mentions retiring the dish. Their enthusiasm comes with good reason: The vegetarian rendition of yellow curry excels with its tender seasonal vegetables in

a delightfully smooth gravy that delivers all the expected flavor of a curry but without the assertiveness.

Just as the menu extended beyond small plates, Hummingbird’s dining space expands outside its intimate dining room. Its all-season patio, overlooking the intersection of Atlantic and Whitaker Road, has established itself as a destination spot. Dining there feels like having a front-row seat to Raleigh’s epicenter of growth.

The area surrounding Dock 1053 has been transformed in recent years by the City of Oaks’ rush for new development, a stark contrast from when Hummingbird first opened. The backdrop provides a perfect setting for Hummingbird’s acclaimed brunch service.

Soak in the Carolina weather and sip on an easy-drinking cocktail like the hibiscus-infused vodka and lime Hummingbird

Fizz while you peruse the brunch menu that breaks away from tradition. Hummingbird gives a Nordic twist to the brunch mainstay bagel and lox, pairing toast from nationally recognized Boulted Bread with house-cured salmon, caper-chive cream cheese, and pickled red onions.

Diners looking to start their weekend mornings with a hearty meal — or those trying to recover from the night before — will appreciate the brunch burger. Topping house-ground sirloin and chuck with pimento cheese, a fried green tomato, and a sunny side egg, the dish is like serving all the essence of Southern cuisine in a bun.

Chef Speaks originally arrived in Raleigh with the desire to bring cool stuff to the city. She continues to deliver on that goal through Hummingbird’s sister space, music lounge Whitaker & Atlantic. t hummingbirdraleigh.com

Gravlax toast featuring house-cured salmon is among Hummingbird’s celebrated brunch offerings.

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The gentle murmur of the surf on wide, pristine beaches. Sea oats swaying in a calming ocean breeze.

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Come find your new happy place.

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SOPHIE’S GRILL & BAR WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

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Distinctive Kapama stew CLASSIC BORSCHT

When considering Sophie’s Grill & Bar in Cary, a timeworn cliché comes to mind: Don’t judge a book by its cover.

From the outside, you may be tempted to assume it’s just another sports bar. But the dynamic social schedule — complete with Latino night, belly dancing, speed dating, and Russian trivia — indicates this is no ordinary eatery.

“We have a variety of events as Sophie’s appeals to diverse people in our community who seek a place that offers personalization and inclusiveness,” said proprietor Desislava (Desi) Nikolova, who hails from Bulgaria.

Hospitality reigns supreme at Sophie’s, which somehow manages to please the beerand-burger crowd as well as those seeking an authentic Eastern European experience.

It’s not often you see jumbo chicken wings and Hungarian goulash on the same bill of fare. Never mind baked Armenian figs and stuffed Bulgarian peppers.

Among the tempting Old World entrees prepared by chef Galina Nikolova (no relation to the owner), consider trying the

Stuffed zucchini with lambCLASSIC BORSCHT

Slavonian stew encompassing Croatian-style chicken, potatoes, and vegetables served in a clay pot; the grilled Serbian pork sausage seasoned with traditional spices; and cabbage rolls stuffed with ground beef, pork, and rice topped with Hungarian paprika sauce.

For a special treat, call in advance and request the incomparable Kapama stew brimming with pork, chicken, beef, Bulgarian pork sausage, cabbage, tomatoes, and rice.

While Desi enjoys accommodating loyal regulars who come in and order from the menu, she also relishes opportunities to host elevated private functions.

“We see a lot of different people from various nationalities, and we are well suited to cater to their needs,” she explains. “We do weddings, receptions, anniversaries, birthdays — all types of group events and parties.”

Sophie’s does not charge a fee to rent the space. Reserved events take place either in a charming private room with seating for 16 guests or at several community tables in the main dining area that can easily accommodate larger groups. Offsite catering also is available.

An outdoor patio provides seating for 50.

To assist her in pulling off memorable

special occasions, Desi partners with Cary resident Paul Rhoades, a wild game chef and field-to-table consultant. On the day we visited, Rhoades prepared a sampling of impressive offerings including grilled jumbo tiger shrimp marinated in lemon-garlic vinaigrette served atop a couscous cake; fresh red snapper with a tomato-based fish stock; and Mediterranean rack of lamb crusted with oregano, mint, and parsley with Swiss chard and roasted garlic potatoes.

“I like to keep things simple while offering something distinctive,” says Rhoades.

Sophie’s serves its exclusive Nikoloff private-label wine imported from the country of Georgia. Presented in dry and semi-sweet varieties, red and white wine is made from Saperavi and Rkatsiteli grapes from the Khashmi village region.

“Georgia is one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world,” says wine master and dining room manager Simeon Ganchev. “The Nikoloff wines we serve pair nicely with the food and are well balanced on the palate.”

Reservations are recommended at dinner, especially on weekends. t sophiesgrillandbar.com

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Smashed

Burgers & Cocktails WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

The global flavors and colorful cocktails on the menu at Smashed Burgers & Cocktails offer a modern upgrade to a traditional burger joint.

Purists will appreciate the Smashed Classic — American cheese, lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles, and a mayo-based house sauce.

More adventurous combinations include the Korean BBQ burger featuring kimchi and pickled slaw, pepper jack cheese, Korean BBQ sauce, and a piquant gochujang sauce, or the Vietnamese Banh Mi burger with pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, and jalapenos plus hoisin sauce and sriracha mayo.

Appetizers and sides include classics like loaded tater tots or fries and pretzel bites, plus more unexpected offerings such as hush puppies and edamame.

Want a cocktail? Try a Shooting Star Martini with vanilla vodka, passion fruit liqueur, pineapple and lime juices served with a shot of prosecco, or The Highway with cognac, aged rum, and locally made bitters. Mocktails like Coconut Colada, Mixed Berry Mojito, and Simple Sunrise ensure something for everyone. t smashednc.com

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WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Downtown Cary’s most versatile restaurant rests squarely in the center of The Mayton hotel’s main level. Welcome to Peck & Plume, which features modern American cuisine for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch.

Whether you sit in the main dining room, the bar, the cozy study, or the openair terrace, you’re assured to experience first-rate service, ambience, and flavor.

Among the restaurant’s most striking décor is wallpaper created by Hillsboroughbased artist Katie M. Hayes and produced

by Durham’s Spoonflower, a print-ondemand textile company. New tables, flooring, and lighting further enhance the warm, comfortable space.

Veteran chef Jason Daniels helms Peck & Plume’s kitchen. The Arkansas native served a decade as executive chef at the Forbes Four-Star–rated Inn at Willow Grove near Charlottesville, Virginia. Daniels has spent most of his career running kitchens at various resorts, country clubs, and awardwinning historic inns.

“I’ve been stirring pots for 35 years,” the humble chef said during an exclusive sit-down conversation following a bustling Friday lunch service. “Being in a hotel keeps me on my toes and keeps my knives sharp.

I never get complacent, and I have a great team working with me.”

Daniels says modern American fare comprises the “bones of the operation,” but he also draws inspiration from Asian, French, Mediterranean, and Latin cultures.

“The menu contains home favorites that are dressed up and brought to town,” he says. “Consistency is the biggest piece of the puzzle for me, so I enjoy spending time teaching others in the kitchen how to maintain a high level of quality.”

No matter which meal you partake in at Peck & Plume, you’ll be presented with a well-composed dish made from locally sourced ingredients.

At breakfast, consider the spinach, tomato, and feta frittata with apple smoked bacon, pork or chicken sausage, and breakfast potatoes or garlic cheese grits.

Or relish a sweet corn waffle crowned with maple butter.

We strongly suggest you plan a brunch

outing on a Saturday or Sunday, as the menu will provide plenty of specialties to contemplate. Don’t skip the sublime and substantial French toast brick.

“We bake the semolina dough and soak it overnight in a heavy egg mixture,” Daniels reveals. “It has a crème brûlée-esque texture.”

For an impeccable sweet-and-savory option, go for the chicken and waffle. The tender, crispy chicken breast comes drizzled with a chipotle-infused hot honey that will tingle your taste buds.

Among the tempting lunch options, order the open-faced seared salmon sandwich on sourdough. We found the fish to be as fresh and flaky as you’d find at the coast’s finest seafood eatery.

From the custom wallpaper, which features native bird species, to the light fixtures in the dining room, crafted to look like nests, many design details are inspired by The Mayton’s proximity to the 7-acre Downtown Cary Park.

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The otherworldly French toast brick is a weekend brunch standout that’s worth the price of admission.

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Dishes such as barbecue quail, fried green tomatoes, and pan-roasted chicken are impeccably prepared and artfully presented.

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“The balsamic mustard is what makes it stand out,” Daniels says. “We make it in house and ferment it for 24 hours.”

Pan-griddled meatloaf sliders paired with kettle chips make for a generously portioned meal.

At lunchtime and dinner, a selection of For the Table features include items like honey lime chicken wings, smoked salmon spread, and roasted heirloom cauliflower — all of which are gluten free.

“We have made a concerted effort to offer plenty of glutenfree options for the guests,” Daniels says. “This is a priority that’s here to stay.”

Dinner entrees range from chimichurri-tinged fish tacos to fork-tender braised short ribs. You’ll also find bucatini pasta brimming with andouille sausage and grilled shrimp, and sticky gochujang tofu.

“We love to be thought of as a go-to spot on date nights, but we also want to be a place where you come in for a burger on a Wednesday evening,” Daniels says.

An all-day menu featuring artisanal cheeses, pork pimento cheese dip, mushroom focaccia, and more is available from 11 a.m. to closing no matter where you choose to sit.

When it comes to libations, hand-crafted cocktails like the vodka-based Mayton Monarch, bourbon-imbued Honey Bee, and Seneca Old Fashioned with black walnut bitters will keep imbibers satisfied. Beer on draft includes offerings from Cary-based Bond Brothers and other North Carolina breweries.

Be sure to save room for dessert. Aptly named chocolate sin cake will have you repenting of any gluttonous indiscretions, while the intense blueberry lemon tart delivers a tangy punch.

Reservations are strongly encouraged. Private dining is available for groups and special occasions. t peckandplume.com

Chocolate sin cake is worth the caloric indiscretion.

“I’ve

been stirring pots for 35 years. Being in a hotel keeps me on my toes and keeps my knives sharp. I never get complacent, and I have a great team working with me.”

— Jason Daniels, chef, Peck & Plume

Mayton Mimosa

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One History, Many Voices Voices..

Palace Tours • Living History Programs • Exhibits • Gardens • Special Events

Experience living history. Walk in the steps of the governors who lived at Tryon Palace during the 1770’s – a time of intellectual and political turmoil. Tour the Palace, Kitchen Office and our 21 acres of beautiful gardens. Visit with the 1st Regiment NC Continental Line at their encampment and catch a musket or cannon firing. There are specialized tours, lectures, demonstrations, and special events such as Fife & Drum performances, Life on the Lesser Stairs tour, Garden lectures, Outlander tours and African American cultural lectures. Learn about colonial spinning and weaving, cooking, apothecary, clothing, dueling, and more.

Experience Tryon Palace.

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www.tryonpalace.org 529 S. Front St. New Bern, NC 252.639.3525

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The Depot

on First in Knightdale WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

A revitalized historic home turned restaurant now offers Southern hospitality with panache and precision. The Depot on First, a farm-to-table eatery in downtown Knightdale, melds vintage architecture with modern accompaniments to provide an intriguing destination dining experience.

Proprietor Christopher Critzer purchased the early 1900s Sears, Roebuck and Co. house several years ago after considering how he could elevate a property he believed was underutilized. The home was formerly owned by Joseph R. Hester, the town’s first medical doctor.

“My main desire was to optimize this property by putting a modern spin on a historic home,” Critzer says.

But the Virginia native and Wendell resident also says he and his wife, Carmen, had grown tired of traveling to Raleigh every time they wanted a nice dinner.

“Part of my motivation for taking on this project was somewhat selfish because there was no other place around here providing the type of food we’re serving,” Critzer shares. “This location gave us a great opportunity to change that.”

Following several years of painstaking planning, engineering, and structural alterations, which Critzer says required tenacity and creativity, the 157-seat restaurant opened for business in October 2023.

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The exquisite duck scarpariello

The slow-roasted pork belly starter is paired with apple slaw.

The revitalized Sears, Roebuck and Co. historic house provides the perfect setting for an upscale restaurant.

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The pecan-encrusted rainbow trout is as fresh as you’ll find anywhere nearby.

The Depot on First encompasses more than 5,000 square feet of space, including several dining rooms, an inviting bar area, a large brick fireplace, and an expansive patio.

Durable hickory floors support handsome acacia wood tables. Wrought iron chandeliers and Edison lights suspend from the ceiling, while limewash textured walls provide an upscale-yet-unfussy vibe.

It’s only fitting that such striking décor be paired with first-rate cuisine. Talented Executive Chef Kevin Stratton, who hails from Vermont, curated an inspired menu that features seasonal, locally sourced provisions.

“Most of the items on the menu are local to North Carolina,” says Stratton, who received his training at New England Culinary Institute. “We use Joyce Farms in Chapel

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Hill for poultry and duck, Ridgefield Farm in western North Carolina for their grass-fed Brasstown Beef, and Cheshire Pork in Goldsboro. We get our fingerling potatoes and green beans from Blue Sky Farms in Wendell.”

Among the starters, you can’t go wrong with short rib sliders, grilled crostini rustica, or the top-selling crispy pork belly.

“We slow-roast the pork belly in the oven in apple cider and then make a spicy, smoky sauce,” Stratton says. “We pair it with a nice apple slaw.”

As for entrees, consider the dry-rubbed ribeye steak, Dragon’s Milk stew, or the superb duck scarpariello: the chef ’s spin on a classic Italian American dish with sausage, fingerling potatoes, and green beans served in a balsamic pepperoncini sauce.

“The duck scarpariello is a well-balanced dish that’s my favorite on the menu,” Stratton adds with a smile.

During our visit, we couldn’t get enough of the rosemary-tinged pecan-encrusted rainbow trout that tasted like it was caught earlier the same day. According to Stratton, the trout, snapper, scallops, and shrimp all come from local waterways.

Stratton adds that he uses various approaches to cooking. “I don’t tether myself to any certain type of cuisine or culinary methods,” he says. “I like to employ French and Italian styles, but I also use Asian techniques to keep things interesting.”

Whatever you do, don’t miss the signature dessert: an otherworldly burnt caramel apple cheesecake.

“It’s a classic New York-style cheesecake that we whip homemade caramel into, and we cook the Pink Lady apples in a local apple cider.

This dessert generally sells out every day.”

— Kevin Stratton, Executive Chef

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The imaginative Smokestack craft cocktail is finished in a glass smoking box.

“It’s a classic New York–style cheesecake that we whip homemade caramel into, and we cook the Pink Lady apples in a local apple cider,” Stratton explains. “This dessert generally sells out every day.”

When it comes to libations, The Depot on First’s stylish bar is well stocked with diverse offerings.

“We have been slowly expanding our bourbon selection,” says beverage director Zechariah Williams, noting more than five dozen varieties that come from Indiana, Kentucky, North Carolina, Tennessee, and elsewhere.

Williams says other spirits are sourced from local producers, including Oak City Amaretto, Conniption Gin from Durham Distillery, and Rey Coyote Tequila from Weldon Mills.

Inventive craft cocktails include Hell on Wheels, a gin-based eye-opener with orange juice, brut, and house-made habanero honey syrup; the jalapeno- and tequila-charged Steam Engine; and the Smokestack featur-

Acacia wood tables are among myriad classy accoutrements at the eatery.

ing a mystical blend of mezcal, Wild Turkey bourbon, lime and grapefruit juice, and bitters that’s finished in a glass smoking box.

Red and white wine is available by the glass and bottle, and select local beers are offered on tap.

Some 65 varieties of bourbon as well as locally crafted libations are available at the bar.

An intimate private room seats 16 guests, and a large partially covered patio provides a nice view of nearby Knightdale Station Park. Reservations are recommended. t depotonfirst.com

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WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH IS CALLING! Whether you prefer soundside or oceanside, we’ve got you covered. Answer the call of the beach.

Serving Lunch & Dinner daily, and Sunday Brunch.

Serving up fresh, local seafood favorites and traditional American fare, Bluewater offers unmatched views of the Intracoastal Waterway. We’re known for our watercolor sunsets and waterfront patio, where you can enjoy live music on Sundays all summer.

Visit BluewaterDining.com.

Photos: Brittany Castillo Photography

4 Marina Street · Wrightsville Beach, NC · 910.256.8500 · BluewaterDining.com

Deeply rooted in the history of Wrightsville Beach, Oceanic offers unobstructed ocean views whether dining indoors or alfresco on the Historic Crystal Pier. Sip beachside cocktails and feast on the fresh catch of the day. And enjoy live music on the pier on Thursdays and Sundays all summer.

Visit OceanicRestaurant.com.

Photos: Matt Ray Photography

703 S. Lumina Ave. · Wrightsville Beach, NC · 910.256.5551 · OceanicRestaurant.com 90

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RUSTIC ROOTS WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

There’s something exciting about traveling beyond familiar territory to visit a destination restaurant. In the case of Rustic Roots, a bona fide farm-to-table eatery in rural Franklin County — Bunn, North Carolina, to be exact — you’ll discover culinary joy paired with extraordinary hospitality.

Founded by husband-and-wife proprietors Russ and Vanessa Vollmer, the restaurant has a longstanding family connection. Turns out Russ’s grandfather constructed the building in 1952. For years, it stored tractors and other farm equipment.

“There’s a lot of history in this space,” says Russ, a Bunn native and erstwhile farmer who comes from four generations of local growers. “We have vintage agricultural signs on the walls and repurposed tin from an old tobacco barn on our family farm.”

Though Russ sold the farm to his cousin several years ago, Vollmer Farm remains one of the restaurant’s go-to suppliers for local provisions.

Spend just five minutes with Russ, a bighearted soul who makes everyone feel at ease, and you’ll find out what matters most at Rustic Roots: hospitality and authenticity. (Editor’s note: Vanessa was out of town the day we visited.)

“We want people to come in here, feel welcomed, and let us take care of them,” he says. “A British food critic once said people go to

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restaurants because they have an appetite, but that appetite doesn’t just define their hunger. They also have an appetite for hospitality.”

You’d be hard pressed to find a farm-to-fork establishment dishing up food fresher than what’s served at Rustic Roots. Microgreens are sourced from JJ’s Greens in Louisburg. Sweet potatoes come from Barnes Farming in Spring Hope. Joyce Farms in Winston-Salem supplies the chicken, while pork is purveyed by Goldsboro’s Heritage Farms Cheshire Pork.

“The connection between source and plate is important,” Russ emphasizes. “Guests come in believing they are supporting local farmers, so we want to be sure to do farm-totable authentically.”

On any given evening that Rustic Roots is open, Vanessa, who learned how to cook from her mother, can be found shepherding the kitchen crew, while Russ handles front-of-house duties. It’s a system that’s worked well ever since the couple opened the 68-person-capacity restaurant in 2020.

Also notable is the duo’s commitment to nurturing their staff.

“A lot of restaurants haven’t done right by their employees, and they have created an unpleasant environment for people to come in and work,” Russ says. “We take a completely different approach with our staff. It’s much more family oriented. We care for each other inside and outside this place.”

The farmhouse burger contains a blend of brisket, chuck, and short rib.

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Sublime deviled eggs are made with gold-standard Duke’s mayo.

The front of the building beckons guests to come in and enjoy authentic farm-to-table cuisine.

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The Vollmers take pride in developing staff from within their own ranks. Consider assistant line cook Alli Strickland, a Rocky Mount native who has worked at the restaurant since the beginning, starting out as a hostess.

“They really do treat us like family,” Strickland says without prompting.

While the menu changes seasonally (“about every two months,” according to Russ), popular items like hot honey chicken, black Angus ribeye, and the farmhouse burger tend to remain readily accessible.

“The burger is a special custom blend of brisket, chuck, and short rib,” Russ reveals.

The day we were there, it was crowned with a thick, juicy slice of tomato that tasted like it was picked from the vine that morning.

Assuming they are available when you go, don’t miss the heavenly deviled eggs. They’re made with just the right amount of Duke’s mayo and topped with crispy bacon pieces and fresh microgreens.

Be sure to order the intriguingly named Juicy Bread, which involves large pieces of grilled ciabatta slathered with garlic and herb butter.

Entrees like the bacon-wrapped Certified Angus filet mignon and the sustainably farmed Atlantic salmon will not disappoint.

“People ask what the secret ingredient is, and I tell them it’s made with love.”

Don’t miss the delectable brown butter cake.

— Russ Vollmer, owner, Rustic Roots

“Our food isn’t overly sophisticated,” Russ says, “but it is fresh, made with quality ingredients, and it has some nice flair to it.”

Save room for dessert. House favorite brown butter cake, with its distinctive caramel-meets-cinnamon flavor profile, is totally worth the caloric binge.

“People ask what the secret ingredient is, and I tell them it’s made with love,” Russ says beamingly, adding that the dessert menu doesn’t have prices on it — but nobody has ever asked the cost of an after-dinner treat.

When it comes to libations, Naomi Boykin deftly manages the cozy, corner-situated bar. Wine and beer are readily accessible, but it’s the inventive signature cocktails that set the beverage program apart. Consider the Blackberry Bramble with muddled lemon, blackberries, house-made lemon simple syrup, Tanqueray gin, and ginger ale.

There’s also the Bunn Mule with Tito’s vodka, ginger beer, and fresh lime juice.

“Naomi does an amazing job making creative, next-level drinks,” Russ says.

The décor at Rustic Roots is warm and relaxed. Tables topped with brown butcher paper and fresh flowers are flanked by cedar-planked walls and an earth-toned cement floor. Wooden banquettes feature antique shutters positioned atop the back of the seats.

Russ is quick to credit Vanessa for the restaurant’s unpretentious vibe.

“She envisioned everything. She said if we take care of the little things, the big things will take care of themselves,” he says.

“This restaurant has been a faith journey for us, but the Lord has blessed us with his favor, and we are thankful.” t rusticrootsbunn.com

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VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR UPDATES & FLOOR PLANS

501

Pittsboro

Bynum

Farrington

540

55

Apex

Cary

Morrisville

RDU International Airport

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NOW UNDER CONSTRUCTION

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Developed By: Pea Ridge Developers, LLC

CHECK WEBSITE FOR UPDATES

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CONSTRUCTION COMING SOON

We are an Italian dining ristorante with a comfortable and casual atmosphere.

We strive to provide each guest with an experience they will remember.

2024

AWARDS

BEST OF CARY MAGAZINE

Voted Best Italian Restaurant

1060 Darrington Drive, Cary (919) 468-7229 www.luganocary.com

Always the Same, Above & Beyond Service Family Owned & Operated

UPDATED HOURS!

Monday - Thursday 7AM - 6PM 234 E. Johnson St. Cary, N.C. 27513 919-380-0040 | carycarcare.com

MICHELIN® Defender®2

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INDULGE

IN THE FLAVORS OF ITALY Chef Paolo Gavazza crafts authentic Italian cuisine that will immerse you in a culinary journey that celebrates tradition and sophistication.

OFFERING COOKING CLASSES AND WINE DINNERS!

dampf good bbq WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

128 Bass Lake Road | Holly Springs spazioromana.com | 919-285-3596 D@Spazioromana.com

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

You don’t have to leave the Triangle to find first-rate beef brisket and other delectable smoked goodness. Three days a week, brothers Nick and Bryce Dampf serve Texas-style provisions cooked the proper way: low and slow at 250 degrees for 14 hours.

After starting with an inexpensive offset cooker from Home Depot, the brothers honed their craft. Small pop-up events built a following, and now their cleverly named outpost occupies a 32-foot trailer situated in family-friendly Phillips Farms in Cary.

“Barbecue brings people together and makes them happy,” Bryce says.

The best-selling brisket is as flavorful as you’ll find anywhere. You’ll also find succulent beef and pork spareribs, pulled pork, turkey breast, house-made sausage, and bacon brisket, which is essentially sliced pork belly. Popular items often sell out.

Service is fast-casual; just line up and order at the left window. Online ordering and catering services are available. t dampfgoodbbq.com

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WRITTEN BY ELLIOT ACOSTA | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Mulino

ITALIAN KITCHEN & BAR

Journey to where North Dawson Street ends in downtown Raleigh, across a set of retired train tracks, and you’ll find Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar. Open since 2017, the restaurant serves freshly made pasta, pizza, and other Italian classics.

However, over a hundred years of history accompany Mulino’s location, a former industrial textile mill built in 1900.

If Walls Could Talk

Founded in 1903, Melrose Textile Mill originally produced ribbed underwear. Eventually production expanded to include bathing suits, which were made available to rent at the Pullen Park Pool for 35 cents a day.

The mill shut down in 1930, succumbing to the impact of the Black Tuesday stock market crash of the prior year. The space sat mostly untouched during the following decades, aside from a few temporary residents like a motor supply warehouse, sheet metal shop, or roofing company.

A.G. Zalal purchased the building in 1980, breathing new life into it by kicking off a series of extensive renovations. According to Zalal’s daughter, Brenshnaa Zalal Martin, “He rehabbed the building — new everything. There was years and years and years of pigeon poop covering the mill.”

Mulino’s reflection pool welcomes diners to the renovated warehouse space.

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Mulino’s lamb shank is a callback to the space’s origin as a Moroccan restaurant.

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Mulino’s Margherita pizza featuring cherry tomatoes

One of Mulino’s most popular dishes, the lasagna

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Even a decade later, Hachby is still making renovations to the space. In 2024, he added a fully equipped outdoor bar area that hosts wine cocktail parties and private events.

Becoming Mulino Toasting with Mulino’s Casta Diva and Aperol Spirtz

The Next Chapter

The historic mill caught the eye of Samad Hachby, who formerly owned nearby Mosaic Wine Bar in Glenwood South. Enchanted by the space’s historic aura, Hachby recognized the possibility to create something special within the brick walls.

According to Hachby, “The space had this old-world vibe — brick, heights, and a unique look that called for a Mediterraneanstyle restaurant.”

Channeling inspiration from his native Casablanca, Hachby began additional renovations in 2009 to create his Moroccan restaurant, Babylon.

“The building was a dark shell with no utilities,” he recalls. “We had to reimagine everything and convince many naysayers about the location. At that time, we were a hidden oasis.”

The two and a half years of renovation resulted in a space that leans into its historic charms while providing a backdrop to highlight Hachby’s extravagant additions, such as a hand-painted tile roof in what is now known as the Palace Room.

One of Hachby’s marquee additions is the reflecting pool that welcomes guests as they enter the restaurant’s courtyard.

“The pool brought that drama to the forefront to open it to the guests to enjoy,” says Hachby.

Spurred by his admiration of Italy, Hachby announced in 2017 that he planned to transform Babylon into Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar. The new name pays homage to the restaurant’s home, as mulino means mill in Italian.

Pastas are a point of pride on the Mulino menu, with dough made in-house daily using organic eggs and flour from Lindley Mills in Graham, North Carolina. Dishes like the spinach ravioli, lasagna, and gnocchi showcase skillfully prepared classic Italian dishes.

When asked what dishes truly encapsulate Mulino’s menu, Hachby refers to the

Gnocchi al Tartufo. “It’s pillowy, delicate, and a magic combination of the 36-month-old Parmigiano with the truffles. Buonissimo!”

Moroccan influences can still be found in the menu, as seen in the lamb shank, which had been a popular dish back in the Babylon days.

Martin, who grew up at the mill while it was operating as an industrial building, knows that her father A.G. was proud of what he and Hachby were able to turn the mill into today.

“It’s astonishing to sit at Mulino and see people all dressed up coming towards this building after years of it just being men in roofing and sheeting metal business,” she says. “I know my dad was not only very proud of the vision that brought the building back to life but proud of Samad for what he did in the place.” t mulinoraleigh.com

After extensive renovations, Mulino’s courtyard welcomes diners with historic charms and extravagant features.

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the peach cobbler factory

SPRING INTO BETTER HEALTH WITH OUR AERIAL & YOGA CLASSES

WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Peaches are always in season at The Peach Cobbler Factory in Fuquay-Varina.

At this enticing sweet spot for abundant ooey-gooey goodness, guests can always expect to get their fill of cobbler, which is baked daily and served warm with a copious scoop of ice cream. Among the dozen available flavors, peach reigns supreme, followed by blackberry peach and mango peach. Other tempting options include apple walnut raisin, cinnamon peach praline, and sweet potato.

Prefer cookies to cobbler? Choose between options ranging from chocolate chocolate chip, vanilla Butterfinger, and snickerdoodle to red velvet sugar and salted caramel.

When it comes to cinnamon rolls — traditional and cobbler-stuffed — whether you go with classic vanilla or Nutella, peanut butter praline or apple butter, you won’t have any regrets.

Twelve flavors of banana pudding and “pudd-n” shakes vie for consideration. The most popular include straightforward favorites like classic and Oreo and adventurous selections such as coconut cream pie and bourbon pecan.

Additional dessert options include Belgian waffles, “Bigger & Better” brownies, and churro stix. t peachcobblerfactory.com

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Cantarito cocktail

El Cantarito Bar & Grill WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Chunky guacamole is a house specialty.

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Downtown Fuquay’s newest multistory building features an anchor tenant that’s drawing big crowds for lunch and dinner. El Cantarito Bar & Grill serves quality Mexican cuisine in a modern environment and is situated in the lower level of mixed-use development The Q. “Our cuisine is a bit more traditional than you’ll find elsewhere,” says managing partner Oscar Arellano, who formerly worked with popular restaurant chain Fiesta Mexicana. “We offer a good variety of dishes, so there’s something for everyone.”

A quick perusal of the El Cantarito menu reveals distinctive offerings.

Among the available hearty soups, you can’t go wrong with either the Mexican chicken or tortilla varieties, both of which contain chicken, pico de gallo, and avocado.

When it comes to entrees, consider the Camarones Yucatan featuring grilled shrimp crowned with green and red peppers, zucchini, and mushrooms. It’s served alongside rice, salad, and flour tortillas.

Another tempting main course is the chilaquiles, consisting of corn tortilla casserole with chicken or beef tips, queso fresco, and diner’s choice of red or green sauce.

Menu staples like quesadillas, burritos, and enchiladas are well represented, but we especially recommend the savory Cantarito enchiladas featuring chicken, beef, or cheese topped with red, green, and cheese sauces plus avocado and queso fresco.

In the mood for tacos? Treat yourself to a trio of street tacos comprising soft corn tortillas filled with your choice of carne asada, grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), al pastor (marinated pork), chorizo, or birria.

Among the half dozen available sizzling fajitas, order the exceptional Cantarito’s fajitas involving steak, chicken, and chorizo suffused with pineapple, bell peppers, onions, and tomatoes slathered with melted shredded cheese.

“There’s spice because of the chorizo, but there’s also sweetness from the pineapple,” says Arellano with a smile. “It’s a great combination of flavors.”

Vegetarian combo meals offer the choice of fajitas, enchiladas, burritos, quesadillas, and more with fillings like cheese, mushrooms, spinach, and potatoes and include rice and beans.

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El Cantarito’s menu overflows with traditional Mexican favorites, like the Cantarito enchiladas, seen here, street tacos, fajitas, and much more.

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If you manage to save room for dessert, try the honey-infused sopapillas, a cheesecake chimichanga, or the traditional flan with fresh fruit.

As for beverages, sip either the popular house margarita, a blackberry mojito, or a Rainbow Paradise made with Blue Curacao liqueur, rum, pineapple juice, and grenadine syrup. Or choose a house sangria, wine, or draft beer including local, domestic, and imported.

The restaurant’s eye-catching interior features a soothing dark green, gray, and black color palette. An entire wall near the back of the dining room showcases assorted hanging plants. Tufted banquettes provide comfortable seating for guests.

“My wife helped a lot with the décor,” Arellano divulges, adding that his fatherin-law made the striking stone fountain behind the bar.

Service at El Cantarito is accommodating and efficient.

“Our staff work really hard and do a great job in the kitchen and out front,” Arellano says. He also is grateful for the support the restaurant has received in its first few months of business.

“Not only have the regular guests embraced us, but other downtown restaurant owners have come in and shown their support to us as well,” he adds.

Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early to avoid a long wait. t elcantaritobarandgrill.com

The Rainbow Paradise cocktail layers Blue Curacao liqueur, rum, pineapple juice, and grenadine syrup.

El Cantarito offers a variety of fajita dishes.

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Nightingale Rooftop RESTAURANT & BAR WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

If you’re like many people who visit Nightingale Rooftop Restaurant & Bar for the first time, you’ll likely encounter the same reaction: It doesn’t feel like you’re in Holly Springs.

Instead, it seems like you’ve been transported to an elevated hideaway in a major city.

“We’re trying to provide a unique experience people can’t find elsewhere in town by offering shareable small-plate dining and modern cocktails,” says Chris Harol, coowner of Nightingale as well as The Block on Main, where the spot is situated. “We look forward to long summer nights where people are enjoying themselves. Our goal is to bring more vibrant nightlife to Holly Springs.”

Chris joined forces with Matt and Christy Griffith, husband-and-wife proprietors of nearby eatery Pimiento Tea Room, to open Nightingale in November 2023.

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“When I decided to open a restaurant in this space, Matt and Christy were at the top of my list,” Chris reveals. “They both bring a lot of creativity, knowledge, and personality.”

When it came to Nightingale’s décor, the owners tapped award-winning architectural and interior design firm West Workshop to help develop the layout. Half a dozen different seating areas ranging from a main dining room and private event space to a bar and patio provide plenty of leeway for guests to relax and savor their food and drinks.

Funky wallpaper, modern light fixtures, and live greenery help deliver classy-casual ambience with loads of personality. Local artist Lacey Crime painted a striking nightingale bird at the entrance and the restaurant’s name on the back wall of the patio.

“The décor inside is maximalist, and there’s a lot to entertain the eyes,” Matt explains. “We deliberately tried to create an atmosphere that can’t be tied to one specific era, so there are elements that evoke nostalgia and create a storybook escape.”

“It definitely has a top-floor speakeasy vibe,” Christy adds. “It’s not as obvious as you would think to get up here, but if people seek us out, they will find us.”

Guests who manage to find Nightingale will be pleased to see Christy’s ever-inventive culinary creations deftly executed by Chef de Cuisine Josiah Halbohm. Popular dishes include a hearty smoked chicken risotto, ostrich sliders on scratch-made yeast rolls, and sweet potato gnocchi.

A seasonally rotating menu features small plates designed for sharing. Prefer vegetarian?

Whipped feta with golden beets

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The rum-based Queen’s Park Swizzle cocktail features lime, mint, and house-made bitters.

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Pick the splendid whipped feta or the croquettes crowned Imaginative craft cocktails include Queen’s Park Swizwith green goddess dressing. Vegan? Try the sweet potato zle, a rum-based sipper with lime, mint, and house-made grits with fried lion’s mane mushroom. Gluten free? Order bitters; the savory Dutch Uncle with butternut squash, sage, the pork belly bites with seasonal chutney. and spiced cream; and the Cosmetologist featuring a blend “Some ingredients will change depending on the of Meyer lemon vodka, cranberry bitters, and cucumber. season,” Christy says, “but there’s something on the menu for everyone.”

Matt agrees, adding, “If you come here on a date or with some friends, this is the perfect place to have a communal experience.”

We highly recommend the rave-worthy crab cake bites made from lump crab meat and served with remoulade. Christy hails from Maryland, after all, famously known for its crab cakes.

“When it’s available, we source the crab from Quality Seafood in Elizabeth City,” Christy says.

Nightingale utilizes other North Carolina purveyors like Misty Morning Ranch in Moore County for ostrich, Goat Lady Dairy in Climax for cheese, and Visionary Microgreens in Fuquay-Varina. Christy also makes frequent visits to the local farmers market.

Don’t skip the after-dinner options.

Whether you choose the apple crisp with maple or cheddar ice cream or the sublime Glazed pork belly with seasonal garnish olive oil cake with orange blossom and almond, you won’t misstep.

Even standard offerings are elevated, such as the “The cake isn’t super sweet,” says Matt. “Christy refreshing Aperol Spritz made with Nightingale’s tradeinfuses it with some Southern flair. That’s why she mark clarified citrus soda. included cornmeal in the recipe to give it a unique “Our Gimlet is killer,” Matt says. “We use our optiflavor.” mized house gin blend, and we make our own lime cordial.”

Nightingale’s robust beverage program includes Looking for a good reason to venture out midweek? well-balanced cocktails and other evolving libations that The new Nightingale Cocktail Club — part class, part pair well with the food. It’s all masterminded by Zack cocktail party — meets the third Thursday of each month.

Thomas, beverage and service director.

A private event space seats about 40 people and is “We have 14 cocktails on our menu,” Matt says. available for a fee.

“Six are standards, six are seasonal, and two are zero“It’s a great space for all types of gatherings and speproof offerings. We also have an outstanding spir- cial occasions,” Christy says. its list with lots of whiskeys, cordials, aperitifs, and Reservations at Nightingale are recommended, but brandies, so we’re building a bottle collection that’s walk-ins are welcome. t nightingalerooftop.com unrivaled in the area.”

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Attention to detail pervades all aspects of The Library Steakhouse, from the kitchen, led by chef Da’Jon Brandon, pictured right, to the literary themes throughout the refashioned building.

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The Library Steakhouse WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

Once upon a time, a public building in downtown Fuquay-Varina afforded residents the chance to check out books and savor stories. Today the transformed space serves as a gathering spot for guests to book tables and relish nourishing meals.

Locals are delighted to welcome The Library Steakhouse, among the town’s newest and finest dining destinations. Since opening its doors in the summer of 2024, tables have filled up early and often with eager diners desiring an elevated experience.

“We wanted to provide a great place for people to enjoy quality food and excellent service all while encountering the nostalgia of the original town library,” says down-to-

earth co-proprietor Charles Lindsay, a native of the United Kingdom who owns the restaurant along with his wife, Sara Lindsay.

No stranger to the hospitality industry, Charles grew up with parents who ran hotels and restaurants. While in Europe, he and Sara helped restore what Charles refers to as a “derelict hotel,” which they operated for almost a decade. After the couple moved to the United States, they bought a popular franchise steakhouse in nearby Dunn.

“We fed people 6,500 meals a week, but it was about getting the food out fast and in mass quantities,” he explains. “Ultimately we knew we wanted to do something more charming and unique.”

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Steak toast teaser

Bananas Foster bread pudding

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With The Library Steakhouse, the Lindsays strive to make their 134-seat eatery a haven where patrons can unwind for a date night, a business meal, or a relaxing evening with friends and family.

When it comes to ambience, the former utilitarian building now oozes with character and provides warm, intimate dining in stylish surroundings. Button-tufted banquettes offer comfortable seating, while striking modern light fixtures suspend from the dark ceiling. Artifacts from the old library such as a book return, wooden drawers, and functional shelves have been thoughtfully repurposed.

“My wife spent about three months going to various antique and thrift stores to find vintage books, lamps, and other décor to pay homage to the former library,” Charles says. “She even bought rabbit-themed items and placed them around the dining area to commemorate the (live) bunny that was central to children’s story times.”

But attention to detail doesn’t stop with aesthetics. The level of distinction extends to the kitchen as well, under the direction of Executive Chef Da’Jon Brandon. Book enthusiasts will love the clever literary theming that enhances the classic American steakhouse menu.

Among the tempting “Chapter One” starters, you can’t go wrong with the panko-topped lump crap dip that’s served hot or the savory steak toast teaser with wild mushrooms, chimichurri, and port demi-glace.

“We use prime rib for the protein, and currently this is my favorite item on the menu,” says Brandon, who honed his cooking skills under his grandmother’s tutelage. “I also add my own special seasoning.”

“Chapter Two” selections involve 100% Certified Angus Beef steaks in a variety of sizes and cuts, including bone-in cowboy ribeye, New York strip, flat iron, and filet mignon. Elevate your steak by requesting it Oscar style (lump crab meat, asparagus, and béarnaise sauce), Maine lobster Oscar, or with sauteed mushrooms and onions.

Prime rib is available on Friday and Saturday evenings and is served au jus with horseradish sauce.

Additional entree selections, under the subheading “The Plot Thickens,” include a 14-ounce center-cut pork chop, pesto gnocchi, and a pair of Old Bay-seasoned crab cakes. First-rate “Side Plots” include roasted garlic mashed potatoes, broccolini in lemon butter, and smoked gouda or lobster mac and cheese.

The Godfather Old Fashioned

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Cavatappi primavera with shrimp

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TOURNAMENTS TRADING NIGHTS

TRADING CARDS LEAGUES

Pankocrusted lump crab dip

Don’t miss “The Final Chapter” — you guessed it: dessert. Superb scratch-made concoctions like decadent chocolate lava cake, chef ’s whim seasonal cheesecake, and lick-the-plate-good bread pudding.

As for beverages, a handsome, wellstocked bar features a smartly curated wine list including crisp whites and robust reds from France, Italy, Spain, California, and Oregon. Eight beers are accessible on draft, including local IPAs, plus a dozen noteworthy alternatives in cans and bottles.

Inventive craft cocktails (again with the creative theming) range from the Disaronnoinfused The Godfather Old Fashioned to the habanero-tinged Tequila Mockingbird to the Murder on the Orient Espresso with a con-

centrated coffee mix derived from scratch.

“We have 12 specialty cocktails, eight of which are staples and four that will rotate seasonally,” says general manager Diego Southworth. “Our philosophy is to keep things simple while using fresh juices and house-made bitters to bring quality to our craft.”

Service at the restaurant is gracious and efficient. Don’t hesitate to ask your knowledgeable waitperson for just the right wine to pair with your steak.

A relaxing garden room with ample windows provides seating for up to 40 guests. Reserve a table in advance to avoid a wait. t thelibrarysteakhouse.com

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Hank’s Downtown Dive WRITTEN BY DAVID MCCREARY | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

When a place is called a “dive,” it can conjure thoughts of a disreputable spot situated in a sketchy part of town.

Thankfully, Hank’s Downtown Dive in Cary diverges from that dubious stereotype. Instead of seediness, there’s style. In other words, this is a destination where you can go to dinner and not have to worry about checking the sanitation grade (in case you’re wondering, it’s a solid A).

“We like to consider it a bohemian bistro,” says co-owner Matthew Bettinger, who runs Hank’s along with business partner Jeff Kinard.

“It’s a neighborhood spot with great ambience and a service style to match.

We also have a food and beverage program that’s approachable and well executed.”

In late 2018, Bettinger

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and Kinard teamed up to open SideBar, a popular cocktail joint also located in downtown Cary.

“SideBar has been successful, so when we saw an opportunity to open a full-service restaurant, we decided to go for it,” Bettinger explains. “We’ve basically created a place where if people want to come in and grab a quick bite and drink at the bar, that’s great. Or, if they want to get a table on the patio and hang out for a few hours, that’s cool too.”

Catherine Bettinger, Matthew’s wife, pulled together the striking interior design. Walls sport vibrant hues. A small number of comfortable banquettes dot the front dining room, while a voguish, multi-textured sunroom and expansive patio provide plenty of alternatives for relaxing.

Marinated heirloom tomatoes and ricotta cheese arrive on grilled La Farm Bakery bread.

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Oysters are on the small plates menu.

Hank’s specialty cocktails are always Instagram-worthy.

An inviting bar area features a framed picture of the Bettingers’ pet cockapoo, Henry (also known as Hank), hanging on the wall.

“We thought it was fitting to name the place after the dog, as it shows that we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” Bettinger says with a laugh.

Griddled octopus is a nod to Hank’s more adventurous patrons.

Seasoned chef and Raleigh native Evan Cordes has led the kitchen since the restaurant opened. A longtime friend of Matthew Bettinger — who describes him as “extremely talented” — he honed his craft in Raleigh and Atlanta restaurants.

“We keep things casual and approachable for the most part, but for the slightly more adventurous eater, we have that, too,” Cordes says.

Oysters and other seasonally available seafood resonate well with guests.

“We work closely with Locals Seafood to source the freshest items available,” Bettinger says. “We also lean heavily into produce, as we think vegetables deserve just as much attention as anything else on the plate.”

Many of the menu items are gluten free, including the signature fried chicken, which is served in a retro-style bucket.

“For the chicken, we use a buttermilk hot sauce brine and a gluten-free breading mix with onion, garlic, herbs and spices,” Cordes says. “We want to give those who don’t eat gluten a bit more accessibility.”

If it’s available when you visit, try the superb heirloom tomato toast featuring scratch-made ricotta served atop grilled La Farm Bakery bread. A seasonal variant runs year-round.

“It’s simple food done right,” Bettinger says.

Here’s a bonus tip to take advantage of before you leave: Buy a bottle of the house-specialty Hank’s sauce made with roasted garlic, sour cream, mayonnaise, and lime. You can thank us later.

When it comes to beverages, draft cocktails get top billing.

“The most popular cocktails right now are our draft margaritas and cantaritos, which are made with grapefruit and tequila and then finished off with bitter Aperol and chili salt on the rim,” says Bettinger.

Bartenders take special care with classic cocktails, and they have recently introduced bottled martinis to the lineup. An eclectic wine selection keeps things interesting and pairs well with the food. t hanksdowntowndive.com

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dave’s hot chicken

127 South Main Street, Fuquay-Varina (919) 557-2237 stickboyfuquay.com

WRITTEN BY EMILY UHLAND

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN

The fastest growing fast-casual chain in America found a home in Holly Springs, beating out Raleigh, Durham, and Cary for the premiere Wake County location. A second was added in Wake Forest in late 2024.

The brand grew from seven stores in 2021 to 180 stores nationwide in 2023. Throughout its rapid growth, the eatery has stayed true to its early roots: a high-quality product and a simple menu, says Larry Holcomb, vice president of operations of the Holly Springs location.

“The menu is built around that one tender,” he continues. “You can get just two single tenders, two sliders, a tender and a slider, any combination.” The flexibility allows for sampling of the seven different spice levels available, ranging from No Spice (a plain fried chicken tender) to Reaper, which requires a waiver.

Accompaniments include expertly seasoned crinkle fries, pickles, mac and cheese, and kale slaw, which provides a cool crunch that adds a beautiful counterpoint to the chicken’s spicy burn. t daveshotchicken.com

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