Greek Islands for Visitors 2014

your free copy

/GREEK

ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

/

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

2/GREEK ISLANDS

Contents 02-06 The Greek Islands 08-10 Getting There 12-14 Off The Beaten Track 16-49 Mykonos 50-77 Santorini 78-87 Paros 88-95 Antiparos 96-107 Naxos 108-123 Syros 124-131 Sifnos 133-135 Serifos 136-145 Koufonissia 146-153 Amorgos 154-159 Tinos 160 Useful tips

Publisher

Dyo Deka Ekdotiki

Editor in Chief Michalis Michael

Articles Editor

Daphne Papadopoulou

Creative Director Christos Tzovaras

Designers

Vanessa Ferle Kostas Stanellos

Illustrations Dreyk The Pirate

Photographers Spyros Staveris Shutterstock

Coordination

Markella Andrikaki Xenia Stasinopoulou

Text Correction Olga Kariotis

Sales

Demetra Passomenou Ismini Vourdaha Kostas Mantas George Lykourgiotis Akis Michalopoulos Ioulia Valsami Spiros Apostolopoulos Nefeli Kitsiou Voula Karavaggeli Selja Ternova

Produced by

DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st.

Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr

The Greek islands 4/GREEK ISLANDS

Travelling towards the Greek islands is an experience in itself. You arrive at Piraeus port by train, panting and sweating, with a large backpack pressing persistently against your spine. You walk to the nearby kiosk to

buy a bottle of water and some savoury bites for the trip. The sun is burning hot and you see that the only thing separating you from your dream holiday is a busy, noisy two- way street. On the opposite side of

the street, is the quay where all the ferry boats dock. Yours is right there, its name is written on the side.

You cross the street in a rush and find yourself right outside your boat. The large metal hatchway is wide

open, like a gapping mouth, devouring the small, slow-moving figures of the tourists.

A young port official is blowing a whistle and gesturing wildly to the car drivers to move faster. Cars roll up the hatch and

☛

/

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

disappear into the belly of the beast. You check the time, take out your ticket and join the line of hopefuls wishing to escape the dreary city.

You slowly make your way up the narrow stairways of the boat to reach the open deck, because that’s where the best views are – and where you avoid the TV screens blasting Greek TV dramas. This is the important part: Your eyes scan the deck like a laser beam to find an appropriate shelter from the relentless sun and a potential spot to lay down for a nap, if needed. You avoid any groups of more than four teenagers who feel the need to share their music and intimate conversations with others. You zero in on a spot and make a run for it. Once seated, you inspect your mobile

6/GREEK ISLANDS

phone, drink some water and try to cool down. The deck of the boat feels like a laid back United Nations conference room, with non-stop chatter echoing in half a dozen languages. At one corner, a couple of dogs are sniffing the small pools of water gathered from earlier maintenance work. There’s a lot of noise coming from below. Cars and trucks are honking their horns; port police are shouting unintelligible orders. Suddenly, it seems there’s a light wind blowing, cooling your forehead.

The boat is moving.

You’re off to the Greek islands.

As you watch the city disappear in the horizon, seagulls start circling the boat, hoping to secure a morsel of bread thrown by a sympathizing traveller.

The small café at the back of the deck sells bucket loads of the ubiquitous frappé coffee and cappuccino

freddo. A couple sitting next to the funnel are chewing oily pastry pies and two guys in front of them are taking selfies with their mobiles.

Though popular islands like Mykonos, Paros, Naxos and Santorini are served with frequent flights and boat services, others require a good deal of patience and high spirits as you may find yourself cruising through the blue waters of the Aegean for eight or 14 hours.

If you ever wanted to catch up on your reading, this is the time.

The uniqueness of the Greek islands rests in their privileged location, their sheer variety, their trademark architecture with its blue-and-white paint and the unbeatable combination of dazzling sunlight, glinting blue sea and warm, golden sand.

Inhabited since antiquity, they offer a variety of sights,

ranging from ancient Greek and Roman ruins to crumbling Venetian fortresses and darkened volcanoes.

Some are designated for wild times; others are as quiet as an upscale city suburb; some have beaches that could feature in a sun block commercial and others take you back in time.

This is not an exhaustive guide of the Greek islands. With around 1,400 islands, 160-227 of which are said to be inhabited, a complete guide would look more like Encyclopaedia Britannica than this cute, portable magazine. The guide focuses on the Cyclades; a wild mixture of light, stone and dryness which constitutes the country’s most visited region. There’s also an entry from the Saronic Gulf – Aegina - one from the islands of the northeastern Aegean – Ikaria - and one from the Sporades - Skiathos.

8/GREEK ISLANDS

photos by spiros staveris

Getting to and from the islands

There are three main ports which serve the islands included in this guide; Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio.

• Piraeus serves Aegina, Amorgos (both ports; Egiali and Katapola), Anafi, Donousa, Folegandros, Fourni, Ikaria (both ports; Agios Kirikos and Evdilos), Ios, Iraklia, Kimolos, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Shinousa.

Piraeus is Greece’s biggest port and is separated in different gates marked with the letter E and numbered from 1-12, depending on your destination: Ε1 (Akti Vasssiliadi): departures to the Dodecanese islands of Rhodes, Patmos, Kalimnos, Kos, Leros, Karpathos, Tilos and Kassos.

E2 (Akti Hetiona): departures to Crete, the Dodecanese Islands, Chios, Mytilini (Lesvos). Ε3 (Agios Dionysios and Akti Kondyli): departures to Crete.

E4: only for exit of vehicles.

E5: entrance for pedestrians.

Ε6 (Akti Kallimasiotti Argosaronikos): departures to the Western CycladesSifnos, Kythnos, Milos, Kimolos, Sikinos. This gate is for pedestrians only, with direct access from the metro station via a bridge. Ε7 (Karaiskaki square, Akti Tzelepi): departures to Eastern Cyclades- Syros, Paros, Tinos, Mykonos, Naxos, Amorgos, Santorini and Ios. E8: departures to the Saronic Islands: Aegina, Poros, Methana, Hydra and Spetses. Ε9 (Akti Miaouli): departures to Western Cyclades E10: only for exit of vehicles.

E11 & E12: Cruise terminal A & B. • Rafina serves Amorgos (Katapola only), Ios, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini.

• Lavrio serves Kimolos, Milos and Paros.

Companies for ferry boat, fast boat and catamaran tickets: Blue Star Ferries (www. bluestarferries.com, Τel: +30 210 8919 800), Hellenic Seaways

(www.hellenicseaways.gr, Τel: +30 210 4199 000, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4121830), Aegean Speed Lines (www. aegeanspeedlines.gr, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4125200), Sea Jets (www.seajets. gr, agency in Piraeus Tel: 210-4190233), Nova Ferries (www. novaferries.gr, Tel: +30 210 4126181, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4126528).

A very useful website is Book ferries (www. bookferries.gr), where you can book your tickets for all the Greek islands, as well as Italy and Albania, which also offers the latest news in services (possible strikes, changes in routes), weather conditions and even has a Google map showing live marine traffic in the Aegean.

• For live information on arrivals and departures from all three ports, call Piraeus’s information line at 14541 and wait for the prompt to switch to English. After that, you will be put through to a telephone operator (service is charged).

☛

/

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

Island hopping is the standard way of visiting the islands and most people opt for the ferry option, but there’s a more stylish, convenient and easy way to travel around the Aegean and explore secluded caves and beaches. Aegeotissa Yachts is a family run company specialising in cruises around the Aegean with traditional wooden yachts. The company owns three boats; Aegeotissa I, Aegeotissa II and Corsaro Del Santa Maura. The first two are a 34- and a 40-metre-long yacht respectively, which can accommodate 20-24 passengers in separate cabins, equipped with air condition and their own toilet. Aegeo-

tissa I travels to all the islands (Cyclades, Sporades, Dodecanese and Ionian) and can be hired for 7 or 14 days. Aegiotissa II covers all the Greek islands as well as the coast of Turkey and the Peloponnese. The Corsaro is the newest in the small fleet and was built as a replica of 17th century pirate ships, causing many heads to turn when it appears at a harbour.

Its itinerary focuses on the Ionian Islands and specifically to places where pirates used to travel and hide.

• The yachts (Aegiotissa I & II) cover one island per day.

The day starts with breakfast on one of the decks and swimming at a secluded beach until the afternoon.

This is followed by lunch on the boat and then passengers are shipped to the island on a dinghy boat to spend the rest of the day there. The atmosphere on the boat is relaxed and friendly, guests have the opportunity to lie on a sun lounger on one of the decks, eat at the dining room or have a drink at the bar.

For more information on specific departure dates, cruises, cabin charters and prices you can email Stephanie Areli at aegeotissa@ gmail.com, or call at +30 26450 23983.

They also have a website (www.aegeotissa. gr). Their Facebook page is www.facebook.com/pages/ aegeotissa-yachts/ 123861574303407.

photos by spiros staveris

• For air tickets: There are three daily flights to/from Athens with Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) and three to/from Athens with Olympic Air (www.olympicair. com). Check the airline’s websites as more return flights are added on Sundays.

For live information on arrivals and departures, check Athens International Airport’s website (www.aia.gr) • Weather forecasts: Check the National Meteorological Service (www. hnms.gr) and click on the English button at the top right.

Cruising in style

10/GREEK ISLANDS

Off the beaten track Apart from islands which feature every year in travel and lifestyle magazines and attract the bulk of visitors, the last couple of decades attention has shifted towards less visited destinations, like Anafi, Ikaria, Kimolos and Folegandros, to name but a few. These have become favourite destinations for people who are tired of the usual tourist trail and are eager to lay their towel on a secluded beach and explore villages which offer a glimpse of traditional life. Some of these islands may require three days to discover, others can be criss-crossed in 24 hours. You do not need a guide for these islands. All you need is reasonable shoes, plenty of sunblock and an adventurous spirit.

12/GREEK ISLANDS

Anafi

Anafi is a small gem of an island, better known as the next boat stop after Santorini. Its proximity to its famous neighbour (just an hour on the ferry) has rendered it increasingly popular, so go there while it’s still unspoiled from mass tourism. The island is perfect for relaxation and, to that end, boasts some beautiful beaches like Megalos Roukounas, the longest and busiest, Klisidi –a small cove with a whitewashed chapel overlooking the beach– as well as the more secluded Flamorou and Katsouni.

Its main village, Hora, is a 10-minute bus ride away from the port, Agios Nikolaos.

A whiff of oregano floods your nostrils all over Anafi and it is said that the island produces some of the best thyme honey.

Make sure you buy some, together with a variety of Mediterranean herbs from the tourist shops at the main port. The island’s geological highlight is a tall monolithic rock jutting from the eastern end of Anafi. The 420-metre formation is Mt. Kalamos and on its top sits an abandoned monastery with indescribable views

photos by spiros staveris

Panigiria in Ikaria

of the Aegean. If you like hiking it is well worth the walk, but start early in the day to avoid the heat of noon and bring water and food. For more information check www.anafi.gr.

Ikaria

Ikaria is an oddball of an island, mostly preferred by laidback youngsters. It belongs to the northeastern cluster of islands and, with a size of 255 square km, is considered as medium sized.

Ikarians are known for their longevity (the island was added to the Blue Zones of the planet - places where most locals live over

90) and their unique sense of time, which is a diplomatic way of saying that shops open and close at irregular times: some open at noon, others at night and others choose to close at 3am. Life is definitely easy going and if you’re ok with that, you will enjoy your stay on the island.

There are two ports, Evdilos and Agios Kirikos - the quiet capital of the island and a good place to start your walks. The best time to visit is during one of Ikaria’s famous panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days). The most famous is held at

the village of Hristos, Rahes on 6th August, when celebrations are known to turn wild with traditional music and locals dancing the famed Ikariotikos dance. The island also celebrates on 15th August at Langada village. Ikaria’s famed hot mineral springs are reputed to relieve symptoms of arthritis and rheumatism and are located at Therma, just outside of Agios Kirikos. The island's best beaches are at Armenistis, Nas – preferred by nudists – and Prioni, formed by a series of secluded natural coves. Windsurfers prefer Mesakti for its strong winds

and golden sand and Seychelles, a beach in southern Ikaria whose nickname aptly describes it. One point to remember is that sea currents in Ikaria can be very strong and a number of drownings have been reported. If you’re travelling with kids, make sure they’re not left unattended and have a second person watching you while you’re in the water. Take a day trip to nearby Fournoi islands to complete your experience. For more information, check www.island-ikaria. com.

☛

/

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

Folegandros

Kimolos

Time also seems to have forgotten the picturesque island of Kimolos. Life here moves slowly with locals gathering in quaint squares and children playing carelessly for hours.

Horio – the main village – is a pleasant surprise, with its winding streets, picturesque squares and flower-filled yards with striking fuchsia bougainvilleas growing against white walls. Go there by noon and the only sound you will hear in the village is the monotonous buzz of the cicadas which seem to disregard the quiet hours. The rest of the island’s settlements are inhabited mostly during the summer and include the small port of Psathi, and the sandy beaches of Prasa, Goupa, Aliki, Dekas and Bonatsa.

Sights of interest include the fortress of Paleokastro at the centre of the island 14/GREEK ISLANDS

and further down you will see the massive, mushroom-shaped stone formation called Skiadi. In Horio, the small Archaeological Museum traces the history of the island through many artefacts and pictures, while the 19th century church of Panagia Odigitria right across the museum houses the old Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary.

Along the coast of Kimolos you will often find fishermen repairing their nets and cleaning their boats.

Take a day trip to uninhabited Poliegos Island for a swim at its beautiful beaches and explore the abandoned monastery and the lighthouse. Kimolos can be reached by daily ferry services from nearby Milos.

For more information, check www.kimolos.gr.

Folegandros

Folegandros is the new hit of the Aegean, with its rocky, dry

landscape and scenic main village attracting eclectic visitors. The meandering alleys of Hora, perched on a high rock overlooking the Aegean, lead the visitor through three consecutive small squares, flanked by whitewashed houses and colourful wooden doors.

Cars have thankfully been banned from entering the village, so the only traffic you will encounter is locals going about their business. Your walk will bring you to the medieval kastro (=castle), whose walls nowadays form part of the surrounding houses. There are several small tavernas and cafés scattered around the village offering traditional food (soft souroto cheese, matsata spaghetti) and desserts (sweet watermelon pie) to hungry visitors. The second settlement is the agricultural Ano Meria, where you can visit the Folk Art Museum.

Hikers will enjoy the clearly marked footpaths crisscrossing the dry land.

Folegandros’s beaches are mostly rocky and small but the waters are crystal clear. Two of them are reachable by car: Karavostasi – the main port and the beaches close to it and sandy Angali, but for the rest you will need to walk along dirt paths for as long as an hour or take one of the small boats which service them.

Remember to carry plenty of water and a few sandwiches as none of those beaches have shops nearby.

The island has rather limited accommodation options which raise prices, especially in August, so remember to book ahead of your arrival. The island has only one ATM, so remember to bring cash. You can rent a car or motorcycle at the port of Hora. For more information, check www.folegandros.gr.

16/MYKONOS

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Mykonos Probably one of the most famous places in the world.

Mykonos island is the perfect spot for everything!

18/MYKONOS

Welcome to Mykonos!

The most popular of Greece’s islands, Mykonos, needs no introductions unless you’ve been living in a cave. Its reputation as a cosmopolitan destination began in the 1960s when international celebrities started spending their days and nights at the islands’ restaurants and bars. Locals have endless stories to share about this or that jet setter or movie star who was seen shopping and partying around Mykonos

20/MYKONOS

town. The island is a destination for party lovers, with top international DJs scheduling stints at the mega clubs of Paradise beach. The clichés you’ve heard about Mykonos are true. It’s cosmopolitan, picturesque and pricey, its nightlife is second to none and every other dirt road leads to a sandy beach with sparkly blue waters. It is also – together with Ibiza - one of the main gay friendly destinations in the Mediterranean.

This open mentality means that people who come here feel free to express their sexuality and enjoy what the island has to offer.

Having said this, travelling to Mykonos does not necessarily mean you have to forego peace and quiet. In fact, if you choose June or September for your holiday, or stick to the quieter parts of the island, you could be excused for thinking you’re in Amorgos or any other low

profile destination. As a regular visitor commented, Mykonos combines different lifestyles.

Depending where you stay, swim, shop, eat and drink, you may collect experiences worthy of a Hangover movie sequel, or a National Geographic nature documentary. It’s really up to you.

The boat will bring you at the new port, Troulos, and from there you can begin your exploration.

The island has just

22/MYKONOS

/THE GREEK Mykonos ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

two towns (the others are just seaside resorts); its namesake and Ano Mera with the main sights scattered around Mykonos town. The labyrinth of alleys and back streets are confusing at first, but once you get the hang of it, you will be able to stroll down the street with the confidence of a local. Back-to-back boutiques line the main thoroughfares and are open all day for business. Four small museums are worth your visit: The Archaeological Museum (near

24/MYKONOS

the northern bus station, Tel: +30 22890 22325, open daily 08:30-15:00 except Mondays) houses items from the prehistoric to the late Hellenistic period, like pottery, vases and stelae dug out in uninhabited Rinia island. The Folklore Museum (close to Church of Paraportiani, Tel: +30 22890 22591, open daily from 16:30-20:30 except Sundays) has a beautiful collection of embroidery, old wooden furniture, maps, pictures and more. Lena’s House

(Tria Pygadia, Mykonos town, Tel: +30 22890 22390), an annexe of the Folklrore Museum, presents the interior decoration of a typical 19th century middle class house. Next to Lena’s House is the Maritime Museum (Tel: +30 22890 22700, open daily 10:30-13:00 and 18:30-21:00) which houses nautical instruments, vessels, maps and coins from antiquity until recent times.

At the western edge of the town stands Panagia Parapor-

tiani (Kastro district, Mykonos town), an awkwardly shaped Byzantine church and the most photographed site on the island. It is made up of five smaller churches - four on the ground floor and one on top. The construction of the first church started in 1425 and the whole building was completed in the 17th century.

When it comes to beaches, you will be spoilt for choice. If you crave attention and want to flirt, head to beaches like Paradise (real name

/THE GREEK Mykonos ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Kalamopodi), Super Paradise (real name Blidri) and Paraga, all of which are packed with half naked people, sun loungers and umbrellas. Parties here start as early as 4pm and alcohol runs plentiful at the numerous beach bars.

The idea is to swim, eat and drink your cocktail without moving more than 100 metres from your lounger. Super Paradise has its own website for info on upcoming events and tell-tale pictures (www.superparadise.com.gr).

26/MYKONOS

If dance music is your thing, don’t leave Paradise beach without joining revellers at Cavo Pradiso (300 metres up the hill, Tel: +30 22890 27205) and Paradise Club Mykonos (also on the hill), two open-air mega clubs where you can party until the sun comes up. Super star DJs like Tiesto, David Morales, Paul Oakenfold, David Guetta, Armin Van Buuren and Bob Sinclar often appear on the decks. At the south, Psarou beach is a meeting point

for Greek celebrities and people who are there mainly to show off their tan rather than swim.

Women parade up and down the beach wearing little more than lip gloss and colourful Ray-Bans.

The beach’s popularity is such that, at high season, people call from Athens to book sun loungers and umbrellas. If the possibility of arguing with an over tanned, half-drunk, muscular man over a sun lounger is not your idea of fun, head towards the quieter beaches at

the north which have been spared the onslaught of lined umbrellas and blasting electronica music.

Unspoiled Ftelia beach is popular with windsurfers as its northern exposure ensures strong winds almost all year round. Every year, the island hosts the Wave Tour, the international windsurfing games which attract all the big names in the sport. The seclusion you will enjoy here means it’s a good spot to go skinny dipping

/THE GREEK Mykonos ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

and bring your dog (Greeks are not too keen on seeing dogs swim next to their kids). Agios Sostis is also popular with nudists but cannot be reached by bus, so it’s best to rent a car or motorcycle.

For even more privacy, head to Fokos or Kapari (right next to Fokos), two beaches with no facilities, which can be reached using your own transport.

Kalo Livadi is an organised beach but it’s quieter than the others and is thus preferred by families. Agios Ioan-

28/MYKONOS

nis, more famous as the backdrop for the 1980s movie “Shirley Valentine”, is a relatively quiet beach with facilities for snorkelling and a great tavern on site.

Of course, no beach is complete without some sporting facilities and in Mykonos you will find plenty on most organised beaches (Kalafatis, Elia, Platis Yialos).

There’s skiing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, jet-skiing, parasailing, scuba diving and any other water sport you can imagine. For

dry sports - until you start sweating – there are several tennis courts in Mykonos town which can be rented for a game, unless your hotel has a court.

Mykonos is a sartorialist heaven. This is the only island for which women pack high heels. Any new trend set abroad is bound to be tried out here, so all the crazy shopping you did back home will pay off. Hipsters and fashionistas compete for attention at Matoyannia in the afternoon,

the town’s main thoroughfare, while middle-aged, well-heeled couples stroll around town in search of the best upscale restaurant.

If you’re itching to use your credit card, you will have no trouble doing so in one of the big-name luxury brands who have set up shop in town. There are also shops selling local delicacies, Greek herbs, natural cosmetics, leather sandals and of course beachwear.

You will be spoilt for choice when it comes to food as

/THE GREEK Mykonos ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

this is one of the few islands which can boast a variety of restaurants with international cuisine.

Apart from the usual tavernas serving traditional fare, you

30/MYKONOS

down, there’s no better place to watch the sunset than Little Venice, whose scenic houses and windmills featured in the movie “Bourne Identity”.

All the bars there are very touristy and the quality of service and drinks will vary, so look at what is being served before you sit. Later on, the fun moves back to Hora, where throngs of tanned revellers show off their dance skills in stylish bars and around the alleys.

may also try Italian, Chinese, Japanese and even Argentinian food while in town. Many restaurants offer a fusion of Greek cuisine with international

favourites. Most restaurants are located in Mykonos town and the following list is only indicative of the type of food you may find.

When the sun goes

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Mykonos.

Mykonos Airport is also served by two Greek carriers – Olympic Air and Aegean Air and many international airlines fly directly to the island. The airport is situated 4 km from Mykonos Town and you can reach it by taxi. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

Delos Your sightseeing wouldn’t be complete without a day trip to Delos, where excavations have uncovered the second most important ancient sanctuary in Greece after Delphi, dedicated mainly to God Apollo. The uninhabited island is 3.5 km off the

32/MYKONOS

coast of Mykonos and is included in UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

According to the myth, the island is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, two of God Zeus’s many - illegitimate - children.

The site has five focal points: the

maritime quarter, the theatre, the temples of Apollo, the lion terrace and the house of Dionysos. Boats leave daily at 9, 10 and 11am from the pier at the west side of the harbour, right behind the little church of Agios Nikolaos. The boat

trip takes about 30 minutes. Boats return at 12:15, 13:30 and 3pm.

Boat trips to Delos are also organized from Platys Yalos and Paranga beach and you can book a tour guide on the spot. The site is closed on Mondays.

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Koursaros

Aneplora Restaurant

FOOD&DRINK 01

Koursaros

meletopoulou sq., mykonos town, tel: +30 22890 78140, www. koursarosmykonos .gr

The restaurant welcomes you in a setting that will remind you of pirates, in a beautiful garden, where you will taste many original Greek and Mediterranean flavours. The

34/MYKONOS

Bar Lola

focus is on fish and seafood which have been chosen by the chefs. The restaurant has 20 years of experience in the northern suburbs of Athens and experienced staff who guarantee an environment of Greek hospitality and gastronomic simplicity.

02

Aneplora Restaurant

kalafatis beach, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 72480

A panorama of Asian flavours and philosophy, right next to Kalafatis beach. This is the only Thai restaurant on the island, offering dishes like Goi Ga salad, Thai chicken with spicy sauce and Asian cocktails like Aneplora Special. The restaurant offers à la carte menu with 15€ per person on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, and there’s a happy hour (6pm-

9pm) with 2 cocktails in the price of one.

03

Bar Lola

mykonos town, tel: +30 22890 78391

For the past five years, a small but amazing bar has been offering alternative fun to its customers behind Little Venice. As soon as you enter, you see Marlene Dietrich on the wall who has been a source of inspiration.

You will probably head here every day,

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Argo

Alefkandra Restaurant

before or after lunch or dinner to enjoy the great music, coffee or a drink.

04

Appaloosa Restaurant

mavrogeni street, goumeniou square, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 27086

A steady presence on the island, Appaloosa combines gastronomic tastes. If one of you wants spicier flavours and the other more traditional, here you

36/MYKONOS

Appaloosa Restaurant

will find both. The restaurant serves Greek specialties, with a modern twist, Mexican specialties, Indian and Indonesian.

There’s also a vegan menu. In Appaloosa you may dine at a table or at the bar with a margarita or another cocktail in your hand.

Happy Hour is from 19:30-21:00 and there are also fix choices for food and drink for 10-12€.

05

Alefkandra Restaurant

little venice, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 22450

Famous traditional restaurant located under the windmills of Little Venice. Here you will find seafood and lobsters swimming in the aquarium. It is considered one of the best restaurants in the Cyclades, not just Mykonos.

06

Argo

mando square, old port of mykonos, tel: +30 695 714 9413

Legendary rock bar which closed for a few years and is now back, fully refurbished, with a wider variety of services. It opens in the morning for quality coffee, selected small snacks and tasty desserts while at night, it turns into the famous Argo, with parties and rock nights.

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Scarpa Bar

Ftelia Restaurant

07

Amades

mykonos hora, close to agia kyriaki, tel: +30 22890 78801

The underground space with a kite logo has something special: it combines rock with rebetika songs, but also sees rebetika as an early version of rock. The raki served is the best you’ll ever find and it’s so famous it is not even on the menu. They know whoever wants it will ask for it. It is always

38/MYKONOS

Amades

accompanied by several meze dishes, with fava being the favourite and those who know will recommend it.

08

Scarpa Bar

little venice, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 23294

The venue, situated in one of the islands’ hot spots, welcomes you daily from 9am for a cup of coffee, or a juice if you do not drink coffee. After

sunset, it offers strong cocktails, which are necessary to get the party started with the sounds chosen

by Greek and foreign DJs. 09

Ftelia Restaurant

ftelia, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 72466

Three friends with experience in the restaurant business from Athens transferred their knowledge at Mykonos’s Ftelia and

created the namesake restaurant. The decoration is Mediterranean, mainly Moroccan.

The food is also Mediterranean, offering tagliatelle with fresh rocket, spinach salad with chicken and roasted almonds and a perfect pizza – thin and crunchy – made the Italian style. After you finish your food, it’s time to order a cocktail and complete the experience.

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

The classic of Mykonos

10

Galleraki Cocktail Bar

scarpa, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 27188, galleraki.gr

In the heart of Little Venice and the Aegean Sea, stretching in front of your eyes, is Galleraki Bar, one of the oldest on the island. It is housed in a classic Cycladic building and this is where you’ll find coffee in the morning and drinks and cocktails in the evening.

The Classic of 11 Mykonos evangelistraki, circular road of mykonos, tel: +30 22890 24500-10

From the heart of Athens to the heart of Mykonos, this traditional souvlaki grill

40/MYKONOS

is where you will find what comes to your mind when you think of Greece. Rolled souvlaki, skewers, classic appetizers, or for those who are more demanding, grilled kefalograviera cheese, its famous kebab or soutzouki, grilled meat and six versions of yiaourtlou kebab.

12

Kalua

paraga beach, tel: +30 22890 23397

Beach bar - restaurant.

13

Lounge Paradise

paradise, tel: +30 22890 22852

Beach bar.

14

Pili

st. John's beach, tel: +30 22890 26660

Bar - restaurant.

15

Bonatsa platis gialos

beach, tel: +30 2289 028048

Bar - restaurant.

16

Alemagou

ftelia beach, tel: +30 22890 71339

Bar - restaurant 17

Agrari Beach

agrari beach, tel: +30 22890 71339

Bar - restaurant.

18

Epistrofi

st. stefano's beach, tel: +30 22890 28628

Bar - restaurant.

19

Porto - Οrnos

ornos beach, tel: +30 22890 25868

Restaurant.

20

Cavo Psarou

psarou beach, tel: +30 22890 25822

Café - restaurant.

21

1975

airport, tel: +30 22890 78888

Café - restaurant.

22

Εn Plo

gialos, chora mykonos, tel: +30 22890 23011

Café - restaurant.

23

Rouvera

gialos, chora mykonos, tel: +30 22890 28858

Café - restaurant.

24

Music

gialos, chora mykonos, tel: +30 22890 27625

Café - restaurant.

25

Yummy

laka, chora mykonos, tel: +30 22890 28823

Café - snack bar.

26

L'Unico

matogianni - st. kyriaki, chora mykonos, tel: +30 22890 24190

Café - snack bar.

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

The Jars of Brands

Rien

SHOPPING The Jars 01 of Brands 41-43 kalogera street, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 78955

For a third consecutive year, the boutique awaits for you on the popular Kalogera Street in Mykonos, with exclusive and top brand names in women’s clothing, men and women’s bathing

42/MYKONOS

Melivia

suits, jewellery, sandals and men’s shirts. MI-RO, Ratt

by Rita Attala, Sophie Deloudi Swimwears, Pantones and Drink Beer Save Water t-shirts, LJewels jewellery, House of Angels sandals and Don Universe Blue De Genes men’s swimwear are some of the brands to choose from.

02

Rien

14 florou zouganeli street,

mykonos, tel: +30 22890 77230

This atelier opened four years ago by Peny, who’s passionate about the art of sewing and creates clothes, swimwear, jewellery, leather bags, all of which aim at making women feel comfortable with those items. The name means “Nothing” but signifies a lot. It signifies that fashion is not posing, is not

trends, is what every person feels and each person has a different feeling to express.

This is what the creator of this atelier Penny Vomva, tries to accomplish: to reflect each person’s feelings on the clothes, swimwear and accessories.

03

Melivia

26 kalogera street, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 27827, athens showroom, tel: +30 210 3636439,

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Ekaterini Jewellery Design

facebook.com/ melivia.boutique, melivia.boutique@ gmail.com

Located in an old mansion in one of the busiest alleys of Mykonos, MELIVIA boutique remains a destination for those wanting a selected mix of clothes and accessories. MELIVIA offers a wide range of international labels. The place to find ERMANNO SCERVINO amazing laces, FABIANA FILIPPI’S simple lines, STEFANO MORTARI and many more sandals decorated with semi-precious stones by CARUSO, EUGENIA KIM designer hats, SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI jewels and a superb

collection of luxurious beachwear like MARISA PADOVAN Haute Couture, the well-known French brand ERES, CHLOE MARE, FLAVIA PADOVAN and KRISTINA-TI.

Ekaterini Jewellery Design 04

matoyianni, mykonos town, tel: +30 22890 78876, facebook: ekaterini jewellery design

The shop sells clothes from designer Ekaterini which are produced in Greece, but also has a wide range of foreign brands. The youthful design and great value for money are present in the hottest trends in accessories like earrings,

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Optique Boutique

necklaces, colourful watches etc.

05

Optique Boutique

17 agiou gerasimou street, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 77231

The store in Piraeus travels to Mykonos, opens its doors and is here to take care of your eyes. With over 30 brands of eyewear, over 40 brands of sunglasses and contact lenses, it is certain you will find your ideal partner for your eyes. This year, the big arrival is the bracelets of Italian Independent which you will love.

ACCOMMODATION Florios Real 01 Estate mykonos, tel: +30 6945 716650

Florios Asimomytis grew up on the island 46/MYKONOS

and offers accommodation options to visitors who are looking for a quieter place with more privacy. He can hire villas, condos, historic windmills, regular houses. If you like the island and you start considering buying a summer house here, he can help you buy it. Apart from the above, he may also arrange for you to rent a boat, limo transport, make restaurant, beach and beauty salon reservations, and also watch over your summer house when you’re away.

02

Mustang Rent a Car

fabrica, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 22792 & 26464

The agency has been a safe choice for renting means of transport since

☛

LiFOce i cho mykonos

Andronikos hotel

1990. With 11 cars available for rent, we guarantee safe driving and a good price.

The agency aims to keep the prices at low levels and has a friendly and warm approach towards its clients. This is why we deliver the car to the port or your hotel and pick it up from any place you choose. The staff is available at all times if any problems arise.

03

Andronikos hotel

drafaki, mykonos, tel: +30 22890 24231

Here you will stay in design hotel rooms of excellent taste with plenty of services available for and outside the rooms.

You may choose between the simple room, the Blue or Cocoon rooms, the Superior rooms, or 48/MYKONOS

the suite. Traditional Greek breakfast and meals are served either in bed or in the pool area. At Lady Finger Gree or Pure All Day Restaurant you will try grilled dishes or burgers, with various sauces and side dishes, like salads, French fries, mashed potatoes or rice, pasta and pizzas and finally the deserts, like tsoureki, mille feuille, Grek donuts and ice cream. In Orange Blue Bar you will find your favourite cocktails and drinks or others you haven’t tried like Mai Tai, Caipirinha, Bloody Mary etc. Finally, the venue houses a gym for those of you who want to maintain their figure as well as a spa for moments of relaxation.

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Santorini Magic views, exquisite hotels, excellent sightseeing, amazing nightlife.

What else?

50/SANTORINI

/THE GREEK ISLANDS SANTORINI FOR VISITORS/

In 1956, when Greece was still struggling to recover from the devastation of the Second World War, a big earthquake hit the island.

Fifty - six people were killed and hundreds were injured in what was the largest earthquake to hit Europe in the 20th century. With their houses and livelihoods reduced to rubble, locals started abandoning the island in waves and travelling to Athens or abroad to start anew. At that time, anyone with moderate savings could have bought half the island as people were eager to be rid of any property, viewed then as 52/SANTORINI

worthless. A lot has changed since then.

Santorini emerged from oblivion in the 1970s with the advent of tourism and the development of modern transportation, to become one of the hottest travel destinations in the world.

Athinios, the busy port of Santorini, is not much to look at, but as soon as you start ascending the narrow winding road that leads to Fira, you are made aware of the raw beauty of the island that has mesmerised visitors for decades.

Santorini is an active volcano. It last erupted in 1950 on Nea Kameni, the small island formed

from past eruptions. Don’t worry though; chances of it erupting while you’re spending the summer there are extremely thin. The name Santorini was given to the island by the Franks who run the island in the 13th century in honour of Saint Irene and it has stuck until today, though the official name is Thira.

Fira, the main town, is picturesque, but has not escaped the side effects of mass tourism. Throngs of tourists, right off the cruise ships, fill up the narrow paths, cars are parked everywhere, tacky souvenir shops interchange with dated

jewellery stores, signs pop up arrogantly like mushrooms in every street corner and a couple of unsightly buildings mess up the picture-perfect town.

There are some bright spots though.

Take a seat at one of the cliff-hanging cafés where you have your first panoramic view of the 18 km long caldera, stretching like a crescent moon from Akrotiri to Cape Agios Nikolaos, at the north. Right and left Fira town is spread out with whitewashed houses and churches with brilliant blue cupolas. At the centre of the lagoon is Nea Kameni and further

/THE GREEK ISLANDS SANTORINI FOR VISITORS/

out the inhabited island of Thirasia.

The caldera cafés are the perfect places to sip the first aperitif of the evening and contemplate on the age-old popular legend on whether Santorini is indeed the lost Atlantis.

Sightseeing should begin at Akrotiri (Tel: +30 22860 81366, open Tue-Sun) where excavations in 1967 brought to light the best known Minoan site outside of Crete.

The elaborate complexes of multilevel buildings, the streets, objects and 54/SANTORINI

walls have been well preserved as they were buried under the ashes of the huge eruption which destroyed the island in the 17th century BC. The impressive frescoes from Akrotiri can be found at the Museum of Prehistoric Thira at Fira (Tel: +30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun). The Archaeological Museum (Fira, Tel:+30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun) exhibits sculptures and inscriptions from the Roman times, as well as some objects from Akrotiri.

Naos Episkopis Thiras (south of village Mesa Gonia) is an important Byzantine church built in the 11th century by emperor Alexios Komninos.

The small Folklore Museum of Manolis Lignos (Kontohori, Fira, Tel: 22860 22792) houses an old canava (wine cellar) and tools of the wine business.

Do not miss the chance to walk on dark solid lava and swimming in hot springs by joining one of the daily boat trips to Palia and Nea Kameni, the

volcanic islands in the middle of the caldera, and bigger Thirasia. Boats leave from Yalos – Santorini’s old port - Athinios – the new port – and Ammoudi.

Santorini also has a thriving art scene with Greek and foreign artists exhibiting their work in various venues around the island.

Art Space in Exo Gonia (open daily from 11am to sunset, Tel: +30 22860 32774) exhibits in its carved chambers contemporary art from new and estab-

/THE GREEK ISLANDS SANTORINI FOR VISITORS/

56/SANTORINI

lished artists. Mati art gallery (Fira, Orthodox Cathedral plateau, Tel:+30 22860 23814) showcases the work of visual artist Yorgos Kypris.

Many people argue Santorini doesn’t have any decent beaches. That’s not true. Because of its unique geology, Santorini has unusual beaches which are completely different from each other.

Most of them are quite busy and the best time to enjoy them is to get there before noon. Perissa is a popular long beach with fine, black, volcanic sand and lounge chairs for everyone. There are many water sports on offer and the village has plenty of tavernas for an afternoon snack.

Perivolos is the natural continuation of Perissa and is similarly organised with umbrellas, beach bars and lots of celebrity viewings. The beautiful limestone formations found in Vlihada beach create a lunar landscape where you are able to escape the sun loungers by simply walking past them.

Kamari beach is probably the most famous beach and is similarly geared towards pleasing tour-

/THE GREEK ISLANDS SANTORINI FOR VISITORS/

ists with beach bars and water sports.

Lying on your sun lounger, you will probably see many small airplanes flying really low over the water; that’s because the airport runway starts right after the village.

Two more beaches on the southwestern coast are really worth a mention: Kokkini paralia (red beach), right next to the archaeological site of Akrotiri, is a narrow beach spread at the base 58/SANTORINI

of steep brick red rocks. It is reachable by boat from Akrotiri. Aspri paralia (white beach) has, as you may guess, white sand made of pulverized limestone and to get there you must hop on a boat. At the north, Katharos beach is blissfully quiet, though this is slowly changing. To get there, drive towards Ammoudi port and follow the signs.

There’s an amazing bar squeezed in the rocks overlooking

the beach which is an ideal location to enjoy that famous sunset without the crowds of Oia and Fira. Baxedes beach at the northeast is recommended for families as the waters are shallow – an exception in Santorini. Driving towards the east you will find Monolithos and Karterados, both with black pebbles and sand, with Monolithos being more popular.

If you like gourmet food, Santorini

will not disappoint you. The island has a long tradition of cultivating and consuming high quality local produce. The volcanic earth has helped Santorini develop unique agricultural products which have dominated the eclectic culinary scene for many years.

The local waterless small tomatoes (like cherry tomatoes) have an amazing full flavour and colour and the same goes for the local white

/THE GREEK ISLANDS SANTORINI FOR VISITORS/

aubergine. Fava beans from Santorini are so good they were assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin). The island also has a sophisticated wine industry which produces local varieties like Asyrtiko and the sweet Vinsanto. The strong winds have forced producers to cultivate vines by coiling them up, while the volcanic soil gives the grapes a unique flavour.

Wine tasting tours are organised by local wineries. Some of them are Sigalas (between Oia and Vourvoulos, Tel: +30 2286071644), Santo Wines (Pyrgos, Tel: +30 22860 22596), a cooperative of wine 60/SANTORINI

producers, Antoniou Winery (Megalohori, Tel: +30 22860 23557) and Canava Roussos (Mesa Gonia, Episkopi, Tel: +30 22860 31349).

Eating in Santorini can really be hit or miss. Many tavernas on the caldera have very poor quality of food because they rely on their location to attract visitors instead of working on a decent menu.

Beware of venues with too many signs and waiters prodding you to go in.

Good restaurants do not need that kind of advertising.

Life on the volcano passes in style and expectation. After spending a day at the beach, the same question is raised in people’s minds:

where will they watch the sunset from? On this contest, Fira, Oia, Imerovigli and Firostefani win over the other villages hands down. If you want to find a seat in one of the restaurants or bars lining the cliff, you have to be there at least two hours before the sun sets, as privileged seats - inside and outside the bars - fill up early. Otherwise, you can join the dozens of people who crouch on white roofs, empty yards and other available surfaces to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. When the sun goes down and the oppressive heat recedes, it is the perfect time to

get a drink. Fira’s nightlife is livelier, while Oia is best for a quiet night out.

Getting there: All major ferry companies offer several daily routes to Santorini.

Santorini Airport is also served by two Greek carriers – Olympic Air and Aegean Air and many international airlines fly directly to the island. Having said this, we believe Santorini should be approached by boat.

The experience of cruising between the volcanic islets as you approach Santorini and the impact of that first view of the caldera from below is a must.

LiFOce i cho santorini

Mattonella

Marmita

Skala Restaurant

Ferentini Restaurant

FOOD&DRINK 01

Mattonella

fira, santorini, tel: +30 6944959341

Ingredients and quality are the most important elements for this ice cream store. Fresh fruits are used in sorbets; fresh milk and cream from Koukakis Farm are used to make ice cream, real cocoa and chocolate from Barry Callebaut. Matonella is passionate about quality and first class ingredients. There’s a wide variety of ice cream flavours, frozen yogurt with a topping of your choice, chocolate ice cream, fior di latte and other fruity 62/SANTORINI

flavours for every moment of the day.

02

Marmita

megalohoriou square, santorini, tel: +30 22860 81603, 6933146501

It is located in a traditional village that offers a different perspective on the island, warmer and less cosmopolitan. Sitting at the top of a hill, the restaurant enjoys a view to the east and is surrounded by vineyards. The cuisine is inspired by Greek and Mediterranean specialties, uniting local products of Santorini with gourmet flavours and a menu based both on meat and fresh fish. Dishes

like octopus in fava beans, Marmita salad, veal with prunes and pasta and shrimps in melted cheese prove how well the flavours combine.

03

Skala Restaurant

oia, santorini, tel: +30 22860 71362

Located in one of Santorini’s most picturesque villages, on the main cobblestone pedestrian walkway of Oia, the restaurant has a yard full of flowers and scents to welcome you. Enjoy Greek classics made with local produce like oven sfougato with zucchini and dill, traditional aubergine salad, sardines in the

oven with fresh tomato and oregano, fresh cod in the oven with olive oil, tomato and vegetables, spicy meatballs with sauce and a traditional baklava for dessert. Combine the food with wine from traditional local wine varieties, asyrtiko from the ancient grape variety found on the island and mavrotragano, the indigenous red variety with the rich aroma.

04

Ferentini Restaurant

oia, santorini, tel: +30 22860 71825

A sister restaurant to Skala, also in Oia, it expands on two open-air levels and offers Mediterranean

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Kapari mezedopolio

Blue Monday Rockabilly Bar

Cremeria Vienna

specials. The kitchen combines local recipes with creative additions like the famous Santorinian fava with capers, red wine and tomato marmalade, moussaka with asparagus and cured beef, shrimps with spicy feta and fresh tomatoes and more, with 12 wine labels of local and foreign wines to accompany your food and enjoy the Aegean view spread before your eyes.

05

Cremeria Vienna

perissa beach, santorini, tel: +30 6937 130509

The ideal spot for ice cream, where Mrs Alexandra makes handmade ice cream 64/SANTORINI

Skiza Pizzeria -Café – Homemade Food & Patisserie

daily with fresh milk and seasonal fruit.

The house specialties are melon and pistachios. You may also choose to place your ice cream scoops on top of a waffle which she also makes herself.

Skiza Pizzeria -Café – Homemade Food & Patisserie 06

nikolaou nomikou, oia, santorini, tel: +30 22860 71569

Skiza awaits you all hours of the day, at its small balcony or the terrace, with delicious snacks and drinks to fuel your body. Pizzas, pasta and homemade ice cream are the specialties.

07

Kapari mezedopolio

fira, santorini, tel: +30 22860 27086

The mezedopolio is inspired by capers (thus the name kapari) and creates original and unique recipes which you will not find elsewhere in the Cyclades. Apetizers like wine leaves stuffed with yogurt, pepers stuffed with cheese dip, aubergine rolls with feta and tomato sauce and main dishes like chicken with artichokes and mustard, rooster with wine and rosemary, or the spicy sausage of Santorini are sure to satisfy your hunger. Ouzo, raki, beer and house wine will refresh your

palate.

08

Blue Monday Rockabilly Bar

fira, santorini

Blue Monday Rockabilly Bar is a brand new hangout in Fira expected to be much talked about.

While the name alone gives a first taste of the unique nightlife experience on offer here, it’s not enough.

One visit will have you coming back again and again.

The underground space is very atmospheric, while the decor draws inspiration from the 50s and 60s and, combined with the rock ‘n’ roll musical selections, will draw you in, transporting you

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Sabbia Nera

Yazz

Anemos Beach Bar Restaurant

Sea Side Notos Restaurant

to another era. If you just want to relax and enjoy your drinks or cocktails, there is an outside area, separated from the interior bar by a passage, ideal for chilling out amid the magnificent views.

One of the strengths of Blue Monday Rockabilly Bar is the extensive and detailed cocktail list, which covers all tastes. For the more hardcore, we highly recommend the shooters (any drink or cocktail you like served as a shot!)

09

Sabbia Nera

kamari beach, santorini, tel: +30 22860 33007

The name means Black Sand and is the new trattoria on 66/SANTORINI

the island, located in Kamari, near the beach. Lying at the specially made lounge chairs, you will enjoy your swim drinking coffee, juices and fresh cocktails and after you finish, you will dine in an ideal environment.

You will try Italian flavours with a focus on pasta and seafood, made from experienced chefs and have a glass of wine.

10

Yazz

perissa beach, santorini, tel: +30 6940 570457

A beach bar-restaurant you can choose for breakfast; you may try the fresh fruit juices and smoothies made of tropical fruits or some traditional

Greek recipes. In the evening, it becomes the absolute beach bar. Sun loungers on the beach, tropical cocktails and music nights with live bands or DJs complete the ideal scenery.

Anemos Beach Bar Restaurant 11

perivolos, santorini, tel: +30 22860 82220 & 82540

We will bring you your cocktail, champagne or wine while you’re lying on a lounge chair on the beach of Agios Georgios or Perivolos, with the black sand or you may go to the bar and watch it being made. If you want to eat, you will enjoy

Modern Greek cuisine either at the restaurant or on the beach, at a place which will be set up by Anemos staff for you and your company.

Sea Side Notos Restaurant 12

agios georgios beach, perivolos, tel: +30 22860 82801

If you’re looking for a restaurant on the beach with gourmet cuisine and a lounge bar, you will find it at Perivolos in Santorini.

The chef has created a menu based on the Mediterranean cuisine with a few tropical elements. After your dinner, visit the bar to try the original cocktails and enjoy ethnic

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Smag Gallerie

Feggera

and lounge music.

13

Feggera

megalohori, santorini, tel: +30 22860 82930

On the terrace of a town house in the beautiful village of Magalohori, the restaurant waits for you to enjoy Aegean flavours and watch the moon rise slowly.

The people of Feggera have combined the pure flavours of organic Cretan products with the traditional recipes of Santorini and the products of its arid land. It also offers cooking lessons where you learn all its culinary secrets so that you will be able to make the same recipes for your friends and 68/SANTORINI

Ammos

enjoy them with a bottle of wine from Santorini.

SHOPPING 01

Smag Gallerie

messaria, thira (atelier), tel: +30 22860 33269 /pyrgos, thira (gallery), tel: +30 22860 27134

A new arrival on the island, as it’s been only a year since the artist and sculptor of marble Grigoris Kouskouris opened his first personal space where he presents his work. Kouskouris has been working with marble for about 20 years. This year he returns with a second space, in an area where marble sculp-

tures and old furniture stand side by side. The space is called Spira Marble Art Gallery (SMAG) and visitors can be toured and presented to the works exhibited. Occasionally, Kouskouris offers classes in marble sculpture.

02

Ammos

fira, tel: +30 22860 28744, kamari, tel: +30 22860 32801, oia, tel: +30 22860 72272

The absolute fashion point on Santorini that keeps expanding every year. The two stores in Fira and Kamari are now joined by another one in Oia. Ammos is the right choice for stylish men’s and women’s clothing,

accessories and shoes.

Well-known and less known brands like Wild Fox, Moncler, Missoni, Dsquared, Diane von Furstenberg, Hale Bob, Mes Demoiselles, Rivieras, Vilbrequin, Sundek, Pantone, Pedro Garcia, Ash, One Tea Spoon, Fine Collection, American Vintage, but also creations by Greek designers await you to make them an integral part of your style.

Asimis Kolaitou Art Foundation 03

fira, santorini, tel: +30 22860 23041

Two painters and brothers, Christoforos and Katonas Asimis, along with the jewel-

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Art Shop

lery and sculptor artist Eleni Kolaitou, united their artistry and experience to create three venues for art and creation. One of them is found on the island and houses the creations of all three artists. Paintings portraying the light and scenery of

Magia Art Gallery

Santorini, photographic sculptures, bronze sculptures, ceramics and jewellery will stimulate your vision and excite your imagination.

04

Art Shop

megalochori, santorini, tel: +30 22860 85348

05

Magia Art Gallery

megalohori, santorini, tel: +30 6970458284

Maria Christina Fungini is an art expert with 30 years of experience in Rome and London through her art gallery, MAGIA. Maria

decided to transfer this experience on the island of Santorini, at the traditional village of Megalohori, where she exhibits in one space works by local and foreign artists, who are active in various fields like painting, sculpture and jewellery making.

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Galini Hotel – Villas – Café

Roberto Donatelli, professor of painting in the School of Fine Arts in Rome, Matteo Peretti, known sculptor and performer and jewellery makers Princess Lucia Odescalchi, Ginevra Pancelti, Panos Apergis and Paolo Mangana, who works with Italian artists, are all showcasing their work in Magia for locals and tourists to enjoy.

06

Books & Style

fira, santorini, tel: +30 22860 24510

This bookstore is unique on the island, possibly in the Cyclades too, because of its architecture and aesthetics, but mostly because of its content. Those of you who love to read and enjoy sitting alone with a favourite book in your hands during the holidays, this is the place for you.

There’s a variety of 72/SANTORINI

titles provided by Eleftheroudakis bookstore.

ACCOMMODATION 01

Galini Hotel – Villas – Café

firostefani, santorini, tel: +30 22860 22095

In Firostefani, next to the famous and inactive island volcano, hotel Galini offers fully equipped rooms and villas. You can enjoy your coffee and snack in the hotel’s café. Room amenities include fridge, drier, safe, digital TV, Wi Fi and many more, while in the two villas there are panoramic verandas and Jacuzzi. At the café you will be served juices, coffee, tea, yogurt, toast, marmalades, omelettes, fruit, etc. The hotel also arranges your transportation at a small cost.

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Caldera Yachting

02

Caldera Yachting

fira, santorini, tel: +30 22860 23000

By choosing a day or half-day sail trip with one of the fully equipped boats of the

company, which abide by the highest standards, you will have the unique opportunity to live the island’s contrasts to the fullest, getting to see amazing places which are often

inaccessible with other means of transportation. You will also experience places which exemplify the unique scenery and beauty of the island.

The experience and

professionalism of the crew ensure a high quality service, but also that you are very comfortable, so that your trip around the island is remembered as a unique experience.

The main boat of the fleet is Atlantis whose captain, Manolis Damigos, has been traveling in the seas for the last 30 years and is accompanied by a crew who is there to satisfy your needs and demands. It has a capacity of 20 people, 4 cabins, 4 WC, two living rooms, air conditioner, TV, sound system. On all the boats, the cruise package includes transport to and from the hotel, lunch, unlimited drinks and diving gear.

☛

LiFOce i cho santorini

Loizos Car Rental

Navy’s Waterworld

03

Loizos Car Rental

kamari, santorini, tel: +30 22860 31749

Here is where you’ll rent your transportation to travel around the island. The agency will manage your transportation from the moment you arrive at the port until the moment you leave. All you have to do is choose among the many models of cars and you may enjoy free theft insurance, delivery and receipt of the car wherever you choose, free and unlimited kilometres, 24-hour service wherever you are, a map of the island and, of course, cars which have been 76/SANTORINI

checked and are reliable.

04

Navy’s Waterworld

kamari beach, santorini, tel: +30 22860 28190

It’s the only PADI 5 Star Dive Center on the Cyclades and one of the first Cousteau Divers dive centers in the world. Enjoy the underwater beauty of Santorini, daily snorkel safaris and two tank dive trips. Its diving and snorkeling spots include lava caverns, reefs, wall diving, wrecks, volcanic shorelines and the recently created Marine Protected Area. Nitrox and night dives available.

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Paros

Buzzing with energy and beautiful people, this is the place to be if you want to experience the real Cyclades!

78/PAROS

/THE GREEK ISLANDS paros FOR VISITORS/

Right at the heart of the Cyclades, Paros beautifully combines aspects of all the other Cycladic islands; the striking white houses of Folegandros, the cosmopolitanism of Mykonos, the spirituality of Tinos, the variety of Naxos and the beaches of Ios. Since antiquity, Paros has been was known for its white marble, mined at the area of Marathi, five kilometres away from Parikia.

The high quality

80/PAROS

marble proved very profitable through the centuries and was used to make three of the most celebrated sculptures in the world; the Venus de Milo (also known as Aphrodite of Milos, displayed at the Louvre), Hermes and the Infant Dionysus (also known as Hermes of Praxiteles, displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Olympia) and Nike of Samothrace (also at the Louvre). Mining stopped during

the Byzantine era but restarted when the island was conquered by the Venetians. It continued uninterrupted until the late 19th century when the mine was closed down. The marble quarries have for the most part survived intact.

As the boat approaches to the main port and town, Parikia, you are greeted by the old white windmill, a favourite meeting point for tourists before they

/THE GREEK ISLANDS paros FOR VISITORS/

embark on their nightly escapades. It is the liveliest part of the island, with hotels, cafés, shops and bars lining the seafront and many more scattered around the back streets. The island’s long history is exhibited in the small Archaeological Museum in Parikia (Tel: +30 22840 21231, open TueSun 08:30-15:00).

The most important find is a fragment of the Parian Chronicle, a chronology of key events in Greece from 1,500 BC to 264 BC but you will also see the torso of Artemis in motion, from the 4th century BC. Just behind the museum are the remains of three Hellenistic houses, as well as beautiful mosaics from the 3rd century BC. At the heart of 82/PAROS

the old town lies the Venetian castle built by Marco Sanudo, Venetian Duke of Naxos, in 1260 AD using pieces of ancient temples and other buildings. Walking around Parikia will inevitably bring you outside Panagia Ekatontapiliani (Tel: +30 22840 21243, church open 07:3021:30, museum open 09:30-14:00 & 18:00-21:00) the 4th century compound comprised of three churches – Agios Nikolaos, the Church of Our Lady and the Baptistry - and a Byzantine museum.

Naoussa, on the north coast, stands out with its scenic harbour and the whitewashed houses and shops. What started as a small fishing village has transformed into a

lively town with its own gastronomic world and nightlife which somehow seems to attract a more eclectic (and older) crowd.

Close to Naoussa is Kolimbithres, one of the most impressive beaches with light blue waters and smooth grey rocks.

On the east coast are the tranquil villages of Piso Livadi and Logaras. Both villages have sandy beaches, tavernas and cafés and are popular with families and those who want to avoid the crowded beaches further south. Piso Livadi has plenty of small bars to enjoy a cold beer in the evening and watch the sunset.

Taking the road back to Parikia from Piso Livadi, you arrive at the mountain village of

Lefkes, right in the middle of Paros.

Picturesque Lefkes, with its cubed whitewashed houses which resemble sugar lumps, have resisted the pressures of package tourism, maintaining its slow paced life and unspoilt architecture. The Church of Agia Triada, made entirely of Parian white marble, is visible from every part of the village.

If you’re in Paros at the end of August, do not miss the local panigiri on the 29th dedicated to Agios Yannis Kaparos.

The celebrations spill out in the vineyards and orchards at the gardens of the local monastery.

When you get hungry, find To Thasos for a home-cooked meal and a majestic view.

Paros is home to many sports, including water skiing, diving, horse-back riding, mountainbiking, Go-Karting, bungee jumping, beach volleyball and hiking. However, the most popular sports on the island are windsurfing and kitesurfing. In fact, the kite surfing world cup is held here regularly and there are some top notch kitesurfing schools at Pounda

/THE GREEK ISLANDS paros FOR VISITORS/

beach for all aspiring athletes. Most sports facilities can be found at Santa Maria, Kolimbithres, Farangas and Monastiri. If you’re interested in discovering the underwater world of Paros look no further than the Aegean Diving College (ADC) (Hrisi Akti, Tel: +30 22840 43347, +30 6932 289649, www. aegeandiving.gr) which offers courses and organises diving trips. ADC is run

by Peter Nicolaides, an experienced diver, oceanographer, biologist and offshore engineer who has worked on expeditions with the National Geographic Foundation and Jacques Yves Cousteau. The coastal area is full of wrecks, interesting 84/PAROS

rock formations and caves and ADC organises trips to all of them, depending on your diving skills.

A popular day trip is crossing to Antiparos Island (1km southwest of Paros and the next island in the guide), the somewhat quieter sibling of Paros. The boats leave daily from the ferry quay of Pounta beach.

The hinterland has several wetlands like Santa Maria, Molos, Hrisi Akti, Aliki and Kambos which serve as havens for migrating birds like cormorants and eagles. Unfortunately, many birds and other types of wildlife fall prey to hunters or are otherwise injured.

In 1995, the Aegean Wildlife Hospital Alkioni (area of Kamares, Tel: +30

22840 22931, email: alkioniparos@yahoo.gr) opened its doors to treat wildlife from all over Greece.

Since its opening it has expanded its facilities to deal with the increasing number of injured birds, while at the same time trying to educate the public on environmental issues. You can organise a visit to the hospital by calling ahead or email. The hospital is always in need of volunteers and donations, so feel free to help any way you can.

Just like Naxos, Paros has a significant agricultural production, starting from top quality olive oil, vegetables, fruits, gourmet cheeses like graviera, touloumisio and ladotiri and wine. Locals also

think highly of the local caper added in Greek salads and the alcoholic drink souma, which resembles raki. The vineyards produce two local varieties of grapes, manthilaria (red) and monemvasia (white), which have been assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin).

Eating is a feast in Paros, which, like Mykonos and Naxos, offers a wide range of eateries and cuisines.

The bar crawls in Paros start at the waterfront of Parikia and continues where the music is louder. There are countless bars and clubs to choose from and sometimes the insane number of people gathering outside their doors means that the one you choose may just be the one which you can actually get in.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Paros and Olympic Air flies daily to the island. For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

LiFOce i cho paros

Yria hotel resort

Mina’s Closet

Yemeni Win Restaurant

Bit of Salt

01

Yria hotel resort

yria hotel resort paros - tel. +30 22840 24154 email - info@yriahotel.gr - web site www. yriahotel.gr

At the west of Paros, at the Parasporos cove, in a valley full of vineyards, olive trees, orchards and more than 200 kinds of trees and birds, Yria Hotel Resort promises quietness and rest, but also plenty of activities to do. The Cycladic architecture and the colours of the Aegean are all around the 22,000-sq-meter area. There is a wide variety of accommodation on offer: simple rooms for two, slightly larger rooms, small suites, condos, large suites and houses, each with its own amenities. The resort has a gym, a spa, a pool, tennis court, Nefeli restaurant, Nefeli bar, a gallery where you can buy souvenirs, a library 86/PAROS

to relax reading. It is also very close to many of Paros’ sites.

02

Mina’s Closet

palia agora, parikia, paros, tel: +30 22840 25057

In spring 2010, Mina Katratzaki decided to open her own girly shop, after years of working in fashion magazines, participating in many art exhibitions and charity benefits for handmade jewellery and accessories. Mina Katratzaki gives advice on fashion trends and helps create a style. Her creations have been worn by many Greek actresses on stage.

Apart from her own handmade jewellery and accessories. In her boutique she also has vintage collections, bohemian, casual, girly and έθνικ styles from Greek designers like Philosophy, Belleville Clothing, Christina Beautiful Life, Valia Gabriel sandals, but

also foreign brands like Tenki London, Numph, Empathie and Beck Sonder Gaard bags.

03

Yemeni Win Restaurant

naousa, paros, tel: +30 22840-51445

Yemeni first opened its doors to customers in 2007 in Naoussa of Paros, willing to change the way we had all got used to looking at modern restaurants today. In contrast to the life of new where everything speeds up and gets modernized, we created a place to dine using ingredients that respect the islands produce and traditions.

Yemeni means “see through scarf” which local women used to wear on their heads.

The word actually has Turkish roots but has been used for ages by villagers and a word we often hear in many traditional Greek songs and tales.

In our restaurant we

use fruit and vegetables grown on our farm or purchased from local farmers. All the ingredients used in our restaurant are free from chemicals and pesticides. As our ingredients are not frozen, some of our dishes are seasonal and may not be available. The bread served in our restaurant is made at home in a traditional wood oven and our family also produces the olive oil.

Naoussa Paros Tel:22840-51445.

04

Bit of Salt

naoussa, tel: +30 22840 28625, asteras,tel: +30 22840 42757, www.bitofsalt. gr

Fashion & Watersports. 2 shops on the island. Here you will find equipment for windsurf, kitesurf and other water sports, but also a wide variety of beachwear, fashionwear & accessories for adults and kids.

/THE GREEK ISLANDS antiparos FOR VISITORS/

Antiparos

Antiparos is a small island off the south-western coast of Paros. The island is one of the first – alongside Mykonos – which allowed nudism in the 1970s.

What started as an off-the-beatentrack destination for rockers and camping lovers has in the last few years turned into a cosmopolitan, mainstream land of expensive property and loud nightlife.

The whole island has two main streets, one leading to Agios Yorgis, the only other village on the island, and 88/ANTIPAROS

the other leading to Sifneiko, a beach to the north.

Life on the island concentrates on the main village, also called Antiparos, which is basically an extension of the port. The village has many cafés, small grocery stores, bars and tavernas scattered around. During the day, you could be excused for thinking Antiparos village is deserted, as there’s hardly anyone walking around. The village comes to life in the evening, when sunburned tourists amble along the

cobbled streets, looking for a place to eat. Thankfully, cars are not allowed in the village.

Walking past the Church of Agios Nikolaos at the central square, you will see the Kastro (castle), the old fortified settlement, built in the 13th century by the usual suspect, Marco Sanudo, the Venetian Duke of Naxos. The flat roofed houses inside the Kastro have been well preserved and they are typically built in a square. Watch for the emblem of the “Venetian Democ-

racy” which has survived on a wall over the balcony of a house right behind the Church of Christ.

Atop the hill of Agios Yannis at the south-eastern part of the island is the Cave of Antiparos, where the stalactite and stalagmite formations make for an extraordinary sight. The staircase will lead you down the well-lit cave where you will see a flat formation named “altar” after a Christmas mass that took place here in 1673 by French Ambassador Marquis de Nouantel.

To get there, take the bus or a boat from Antiparos village.

History buffs will love Despotiko Island, found off the southwestern tip of Antiparos, where an ancient sanctuary of Apollo was discovered unharmed in the 19th century.

The sanctuary was used from the 7th century until Roman times and its most significant find is a large female figurine, probably a goddess, as well as a building complex of five rooms. The island was inhabited until the 17th century, when

French pirates killed all the inhabitants.

There are daily boat trips from Antiparos village. Back to Antiparos town, visit the small Folklore Museum (inside Kastro, Tel: +30 22840 61005, open daily 08:00-14:00, except Sat, Sun) for a look at traditional everyday objects and costumes, as well as Cycladic figurines.

The island may be small, but there is no shortage of beaches to swim.

Agios Sostis and Faneromeni are the prettiest, with turquoise waters.

Faneromeni is

divided in two very small bays; the one in the north is rocky and the other one is sandy. Close to the main village, Agios Spyridonas has shallow waters making it ideal for families with kids. The same applies for 1st Psaraliki, which has sun loungers and umbrellas. For those who like crowded beaches, head to 2nd Psaraliki, where you can play volleyball or do some people - watching under the tamarisks.

Livadi beach has sand but no shade, while Apantima is small with a rocky sea bottom, making

it ideal for snorkelling.

Surfers will love Sifneiko, but regular swimmers usually avoid it because of the layer of seaweeds washed out on the beach and the constant winds.

For those who prefer nudism, head to the east of the island or the beach next to the camping site at Theologos (Camping Antiparos, Tel: +30 22840 61221), where it is officially allowed. The calm waters of the camping are filled with nudists from all walks of life – from old tanned hippies to young couples

/THE GREEK ISLANDS antiparos FOR VISITORS/

and kids.

The sea bottom around Antiparos’s coastline is rocky, making it ideal for scuba diving. Blue Island Divers (www. blueisland-divers. gr, Tel: +30 22840 61767) organise diving expeditions in several sites to observe schools of small colourful fish, reefs, tunas, canyons and shipwrecks. The diving site depends on the experience of the participants and is always headed by qualified instructors and dive masters.

Antiparos village also has a beautiful open air cinema, Oliaros, showing a different movie almost every night, at 90/ANTIPAROS

21:30. To complete the experience, buy something to munch from the bar at the back.

The tavernas and bars are conveniently gathered at the main square of Antiparos village, so you will not need to do much walking.

The island’s nightlife is more intense than you might expect.

Bars stay open usually until 3am. The older bars in the village still play classic rock tunes (Bob Dylan, Doors etc.) to an ever-diminishing number of greyhaired customers.

Interestingly, the other type of music that never went out of fashion here is

disco.

To relieve your aching body from all the swimming and boozing, surrender yourself to the capable hands of Roula Papathanasiou, a therapist practising Reiki and Thai massage. Roula is in Antiparos in July and August and can be contacted at: newenergyrp@ gmail.com and her mobile: +30 6945 104810.

Before you leave, make sure you try the following delicious local foods: xinomizithra cheese (Sinioris restaurant at Antiparos village has the best), rabbit casserole and mizithra cheese.

Getting there: There are no direct ferry services from Athens to Antiparos. You take a ferry to Paros and from there it is a short boat ride to the island. Boats leave from the main port of Paros (Parikia) every half hour during high season and are timed to coincide with the arrival of the large ferries from Athens.

Alternatively, you can take the bus from Parikia to Pounta and from there the open ferry to Antiparos which takes about five minutes. During high season, the open ferry runs every half hour until 15:00 and afterwards every one hour.

LiFOce i cho antiparos

Anargyros

Antiparos Senses concept store

01

Anargyros

antiparos, tel: +30 22840 61204

The oldest restaurant and hotel establishment in Antiparos (operating since 1925) continues to offer excellent hospitality to its customers.

Your taste buds will be fully satisfied with the exquisite Mediterra92/ANTIPAROS

nean cuisine, cooked with ingredients mostly produced by its owners. Anargyros is situated close to the beach and other hot spots of the island.

Antiparos Senses Concept Store 02

antiparos 84 007, tel: +30 22840 28845

Let your senses travel you in a world of appeal and luxury!

Enjoy the summer with products from Molton Brown, Crabtree and Evelyn, Agema, Ahava and the amazing mineral make up of Jane Iridale.

Discover unique pieces for your home from

the collections of Kare design and Nordal and create a special environment in your favourite space with the scents Dr. Vranjes Firenze and candles Yankee candle and Durance. We wait for you with many more ideas for gifts you and your loved ones will enjoy.

LiFOce i cho antiparos

Despotiko café-bar

03

Despotiko Café-Bar

agios georgios, antiparos, tel: +30 6974 148276

With a view overlooking Despotiko cove, which gave its name to the café, you will admire the sunset and watch the sailboats go by every day. Relax

La luna

with a cup of coffee and juice in the morning, switch to fresh salads and beer in the afternoon and in the evening have a drink or cocktail. Listening to lounge melodies, you will see everyone in Antiparos go by.

04

La Luna antiparos

A few kilometres out of the village, where most bars are, is the only disco on the island and one of the few found in the Cyclades. From 3am onwards, the disco throws after - parties, which take you back

in time – in the 80s – when having fun resembled Dionysian ceremonies. Here you will drink mainly beer and you will dance under the disco ball until you hear the rooster crow. You do not want to miss this experience.

Camping Antiparos

05

Bali Cocktail Bar

antiparos, tel: +30 698 051 1845

On the central square, you will find a yard with friendly atmosphere and Cycladic dÊcor which fills up every day with people, laughter and voices, as it is the island’s meeting point. With an exotic cocktail with fruits in your hand and music set at a chat-friendly volume, this yard will make you feel relaxed and refreshed.

Bali cocktail bar 95/ANTIPAROS

06

Camping Antiparos

tel: +30 22840 61221, www.campingantiparos.gr

Comfortable, clean camping site located in an area of lush vegetation right next to one of the most beautiful beaches of Antiparos. The camping site includes a mini market and a self-service restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine.

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Naxos So many choices for everyone on this island. Not just swimming and night life, but also amazing places to see, super food and of course sighseeing.

96/NAXOS

/THE GREEK ISLANDS Naxos FOR VISITORS/

Naxos Island is the biggest in the Cyclades and you will definitely need a car to get around. The island thrived during the Byzantine era and the numerous pretty churches spread across the inland are a testament to this heritage. Myth has it that this is where Zeus, the king of ancient Greek gods, was raised and where he launched his efforts to take over the throne in Mt. Olympus. Locals have given his 98/NAXOS

name to the island’s tallest mountain, Zeus (also known as Zas).

Even from the boat, visitors to Naxos can see the 6-metrehigh Portara (gate) sticking out from the dry land to the left of the port.

It is part of the unfinished temple of Apollo, whose construction began in the middle of the 6th century BC but was never completed. Just like in other islands, the capital and port is called Hora, whose

historic centre reveals a beautiful, medieval town. The town, also known as Kastro (castle), was built by the Venetian Duke of Naxos, Marco Sanudo (who also built the kastro of Antiparos), in the 13th century. Wandering around the old town with its very well preserved Venetian buildings flanking the narrow alleys, you feel like you’ve stumbled upon a film set, half-expecting a knight in shining

armour to appear from a corner.

Inside the Kastro, the Archaeological Museum (Tel: +30 22850 22725, open Tue-Sun 08:0015:00) housed in a listed building that used to be Sanudo’s palace, has artefacts dating from the Late Neolithic period to the Early Christian times.

The highlights are the amazing mosaic representing the abduction of Europe from Zeus and the large collection of marble

/THE GREEK ISLANDS Naxos FOR VISITORS/

figurines (Cycladic among them), vessels and amphorae.

The palace itself was built from 1600 to 1800 and is in itself a highlight. The island’s Historical Archives are now housed in what used to be a French school, where writer Nikos Kazantzakis, Greece’s greatest modern writer, attended briefly.

Antico Veneziano (Tel: +30 22850 22702) is a stunning 800-year-old mansion which has been restored to its former glory by the Dellaroka family and operates as an antique store.

The old ornately carved wooden 100/NAXOS

furniture and the porcelains and silverware found in the mansion are displayed beautifully for the visitors.

Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum (Tel: +30 22850 22386, open daily 10:00-23:00) inside the castle showcases medieval everyday objects and, during the summer, hosts cultural activities, such as concerts of classical music and art exhibitions.

Your medieval tour is completed with the Capuchins monastery and the 13th century Catholic Cathedral.

There is plenty of walking and exploring to do inland, so

open your map and take notes. Apiranthos is Naxo's most beautifully preserved village. This small village has set up three museums: the Archaeological Museum (open TueSun, 08:30-15:00) with interesting rock paintings and other artefacts, the Museum of Natural History (Tue-Sun, 08:30-15:00) exhibiting rocks and dolphin skeletons and the Geology Museum (open TueSun, 08:30-15:00) housing lots of rock formations from the island and abroad.

Your tour around the island will inevitably bring you to Tragaea, a large val-

ley at the centre of Naxos, dotted with half a dozen sleepy villages. The quaint village of Filoti, the largest of the group, is built amphitheatrically over the fertile valley cultivated with olive trees and orchards. Further down towards Hora, you encounter Halki village, which has more Venetian tower houses, the most famous of which is Gratsia Pyrgos. In the same village, the family Vallindras (Tel: +30 22850 31220) has been making Kitron, an alcoholic beverage made of citrus, in the same distillery since 1896. The visitor is invited to

/THE GREEK ISLANDS Naxos FOR VISITORS/

observe the process and try Kitron and other products. Koronos is a mountainous village whose inhabitants used to work in the nearby emery mines. Today locals are involved in farming and agriculture. Your next stop should be Melanes, built on the side of a gorge.

The highlight is a tall Kouros statue (male statue) situated in the countryside close the village, dating to the 6th century BC. Close to the village, in the area of Kalamitsa, is the old Jesuit Palace, built in the 17th century, which served as the residence of the Jesuit monks. Another gi102/NAXOS

ant Kouros lies in an ancient quarry close to Apollonas village, at the northern tip of the island. There are more antiquities to see towards Sangri, at the area Gyroulas; the Doric Temple of Demeter, built between 530520 BC which is made entirely out of white marble.

Another majestic tower is the Hellenistic Pirgos Himarrou (a tower) situated in an area beyond the mountain of Zeus (Zas).

Apart from sightseeing, Naxos is all about swimming.

The coast north of Hora is rocky and is usually avoided, but if you go south, you will have a

lot of coves to choose from. Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna offer the usual triptych of sun loungers, umbrellas and water sports (diving included). At the area of Marangas, below Agia Anna, are a series of small beaches which you can explore one by one. On the west coast, the sand dunes which form Plaka beach attract nudists. Agiasos is a quiet beach overrun by families, while Apollonas at the north is protected from the winds.

Naxos, like Paros, attracts windsurfers thanks to the summer meltemia winds that sweep the island. Beaches

like Mikri Vigla are dotted with colourful sails swooshing up and down the waves. Mikri Ammos to the west is a beautiful sandy beach but it’s a long way out.

Unlike the rest of the Cyclades, Naxos has a fertile land and agriculture is widely developed.

The Naxiot potatoes are considered the best and are shipped to the supermarkets of mainland Greece.

As you travel inland, you will discover the orchards and vineyards which produce wine, figs, olive oil and citrus.

Another source of income comes from farming and islanders are proud to

LiFOce i cho

naxos

present their own cheese at the table.

When eating out, ask for arseniko kefalotiri, graviera, glikia mizithra (all flavoursome cheeses) and order xinogalo to drink (a type of goats’ milk).

Since Naxiots eat what they produce, most tavernas serve good quality specialties from ingredients growing in their back garden. When the sun has set, it is time for a movie and a drink. Naxos is more family oriented, but you will also come across groups of teenagers having their fun in the sun and in the 104/NAXOS

bars. Most of the action is centred in Hora and the villages south of the main port.

Cine Astra (Tel: +30 2285025381) is close to Protodikiou Square and shows new releases at 21:00 and at 23:00.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Naxos and Olympic Air flies daily to the island.

For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

LiFOce i cho

naxos

Ippokampos Hotel & Restaurant

Porto Naxos

Ippokampos Hotel & Restaurant 01

agios georgios beach, naxos, tel: +30 22850 24648

In an authentic Cycladic building where everything is painted white, you will find a beautiful place to stay or/and eat. The rooms are equipped with TV, air con, safe, beach towels and of course breakfast is served. In the all-day lounge restaurant you will taste food inspired from the Mediterranean, looking at the view over Agios Georgios beach and listening to the sound of the waves.

106/NAXOS

Citron

02

Porto Naxos

agios georgios beach, naxos, tel: +30 22850 23970-71-72

Hospitality, comfort and tranquillity. These three words summarise the philosophy of the people who created this hotel and its guests. Porto Naxos has a traditional Cycladic architecture and decoration and an impressive garden which will satisfy your needs. The rooms include air condition, cable TV, mini bar, wireless internet, a safe and other common features. You may enjoy your meals at the hotel restaurant and later go to the bar

or the pool bar for a drink. In the hotel spa you will achieve absolute relaxation. Ask the staff to transport you to and from the hotel, give you bikes to ride, inform you about sights around the island and sign you up for group tours or sports.

03

Citron

halki, naxos, tel: +30 22850 31220

With an ancient tradition, the Vallindra family has been distilling the leaves of citron for 115 years, in its neoclassical building, to make the unique Vallindra Citron of Naxos. It is a process

the visitor has the opportunity to watch from its beginning, from the distilling phase, which happens in the same distiller used since 1896, until the tasting of citron Vallindra right at the source, the House of Citron. It is definitely a unique experience, but if you don’t have time, you may visit the store in Hora, where you will find all its products and will be able to taste and buy them.

04

Stis Irinis

hora of naxos, tel: +30 22850 26780

The authentic island and Greek traditional

Mojo Bar

Ocean Dance Club

Stis Irinis

Girasole

cuisine has turned it into one of the most famous places on the island and the Cyclades. The menu includes salads, meze, casserole dishes, grilled meat and seafood, all made of local ingredients with traditional recipes. The plants and flowers in the restaurant, which are taken care of by Irini, create a unique environment.

It is situated next to the port.

05

Mojo Bar

paralia choras, naxos, tel: +30 22850 27034

An impressive scenery unfolds before your eyes tuning you into

the absolute summer mood. The immortal Aegean sunset, the elaborated Cycladic architecture and our high quality service turn a simple night out into a unique and pleasurable experience.

Situated on the seafront at the “paralia” of Naxos town, Mojo Bar introduces you to the relaxing atmosphere of the best open air cocktail Bar in the early sunset and continues till the sunrise with funky, disco, soul and house, rhythms.

The unique style, the delightful cocktails (reasonably priced), the professional

bartenders along with world known DJs, famous events, parties and acts complete the absolute nightlife experience Mojo Bar wishes to provide to its guests.

Ocean Dance 06 Club paralia choras, tel: +30 22850 27034

Since 1987, Ocean Club is definitely the place where the heart of Dionysus’s island beats. Nightclubbing is at its best in a unique environment of modern Cycladic architecture, amazing atmosphere, famous DJ, parties and events.

The place to see and

be seen. Easy to find.

Just ask anybody on the island.

07

Girasole

portara, hora of naxos, tel: +30 22850 23326

The first Italian trattoria in Naxos has been around for 16 years on the island and locals and tourists alike have always told us how pleased they are with our food.

Girasole combines Italian specials with ingredients from Naxos, like the 40 types of handmade pizzas and the 25 types of pasta.

The trattoria also has a good wine list.

108/SYROS

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Syros The Capital of Cyclades is a magical and buzzing place with extraordinary history.

/THE GREEK ISLANDS syros FOR VISITORS/

Elegant, busy and full of history, Syros is unlike any other Cycladic island. Inhabited since antiquity, it linked its fortune with the Venetians, who took control of the island in 1207 and stayed until their defeat from the Ottomans, leading it to a period of great economic development and the forming of the largest community of Catholics in Greece.

Apart from tourism, the local economy is based on agriculture, 110/SYROS

ship-building and services, giving Syros a less touristy feel.

The capital and main port, Ermoupoli, is the administrative centre of the South Aegean region and is spread out from the port to the nearby hills. The Catholic neighbourhood of Ano Syros is nestled to the left of the hill and the Orthodox neighbourhood of Vrontado to the right. The name means the city of Hermes, the ancient Greek

god who protected commerce, travellers and thieves. Platia Miaouli, the central square of Ermoupoli, is surrounded by shops and cafĂŠs, restored neoclassical buildings, trees and flocks of pigeons flying overhead.

At one side stands the majestic Town Hall, the work of German architect Ernst Ziller, who designed, among others, the Presidential Mansion in Athens.

The same building also houses the small Ar-

chaeological Museum (separate entrance on the west side, Tel: +30 22810 88487, open Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00) which presents a collection of artefacts excavated in the area of Halandriani, as well as Roman and Hellenistic sculptures and vases.

Walking around town you will see Apollon Theatre (Vardaki square), built in 18621864 on designs made

by French architect Chabeau. At the edge of Ermoupolis stand

/THE GREEK ISLANDS syros FOR VISITORS/

the chimneys and cranes of the town’s old industrial centre which housed the old ship yards. Three of these buildings form the Industrial Museum (Tel: +30 22810 81243, 84762) housing a collection of 20 machines, components and other objects that testify to the city’s industrial heritage.

Further up the hill from Ermoupolis is Vaporia, an affluent part of the town where the old mansions of Greek ship magnates dominate with their huge doors and marble floors.

The prettiest quarter is Ano Syros which has a completely different architecture from Ermoupoli. Built in the 13th century to protect 112/SYROS

the Venetian population, its houses form a residential fortress with the Catholic Cathedral of Agios Georgios dominating the village. The majestic view of the port from the Cathedral is worth the huffing and puffing you will endure from the countless stairs leading to it.

The village is steeped in its medieval past, with narrow alleys and archways leading you to small squares, pretty flowered yards and meandering alleys where kids play all day. The highlights of the village include the Monastery of the Capuchins built in 1653 and, further up the alley, the Monastery of the Jesuits. Ano Syros is also the home of

the prominent Greek musician and rebetiko composer, Markos Vamvakaris, who wrote Frangosyriani.

His museum (Tel: +30 22813 60914, open daily 11:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00) showcases pictures and personal objects donated by his relatives, as well as original manuscripts of his songs.

The beaches of Syros may not be as impressive as in other island, but they are also less noisy and are just as clean. The most popular are the long sandy Galissas, the fishing village of Kini, busy Agathopes filled with sun loungers and thatched umbrellas, the sheltered bay of Vari and Azolimnos.

To enjoy more privacy

and reach beaches, you have to take one of the boats that leave daily from Ermoupoli or rent a car. Armeos is a nudist beach found in just a few minutes’ walk from Galissas, while one kilometre from Agathopes is the quiet beach of Komito.

On your way to Kini, you will see a sign leading you to Lotos beach, filled with tamarisks for ample shade. Other crowdless options include the mid-sized beaches of Grammata in the northwest, Varvarousa and Aetos. Between Azolimnos and Vari are the hidden beaches of Santorini and Fabrica. At the southwestern part of the island, Finikas beach has a few umbrellas

/THE GREEK ISLANDS syros FOR VISITORS/

and trees to hide from the sun, as well as a cement platform on one end which serves as a playing ground for teenagers. From Finikas beach you can also reach the small, sandy Kokkini Paralia.

The Italian influences are evident in the local gastronomy.

There are plenty of Italian restaurants and gelaterias around the island and some Italian elements have been incorporated in local recipes. For a complete picture of Syros’s culinary world, try the local loukoumia (Turkish delights) and halvadopita (a flat type of pie with nougat) found in every bakery 114/SYROS

in town and also the cheeses San Mihali and kopanisti.

Nightlife in Syros is centred on Miaouli Square and the seafront of Ermoupoli, but if you want a quiet night out, the beautiful Pallas cinema (Tel: +30 22810 82313) plays mainstream films with Greek subtitles every night.

Getting there: There are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus and Lavrio port with Syros. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

LiFO choice

syros

Kouzina Lila’s Guesthouse

01

Kouzina

5 androu street, ermoupoli, tel: +30 2281 089150

Kouzina knows the origin of the purest ingredients and brings them to your plate as it co-operates with local producers and uses healthy produce that makes all the difference in flavour and nutritional value.

The menu is always seasonal, so we use produce that has just been harvested from the earth making our food tasty and clean.

116/SYROS

Filomila’s Mezedopolio

We also cook them properly to maintain their benefits to our health. We use organic virgin olive oil in salads, using organic raw ingredients is always a priority.

Lila’s 02 Guesthouse ioannou kosma & filikis eterias, ermoupoli, syros, tel: +30 22810 82738

An old mansion made of stone, which was restored in 2003, operates as a guest house with three rooms and three suites, which

are equipped with anything you might need. The rooms also have an attic to fit a third person, while the suites are 50 sq. meters. With two bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a fridge, a safe, air con and hair drier. The colour, the decoration and the furniture are aesthetically pleasing.

The location is ideal as it is situated close to the port in case you need to take a trip to nearby islands. It is also close to historical

sites, the casino and nightclubs.

03

Filomila’s Greek Tavern

azolimnou beach, syros, tel: +30 22810 62088

Two friends from Cephalonia set up a mezedopolio in Syros with a lot of flare.

Every day they cook in the kitchen traditional Cycladic dishes with carefully chosen from the island ingredients but also recipes from the East cooked with care. Apart from the regular dishes, there

LiFO choice

syros

Jar

Greek Coffee Shop

are also specialties of the day which change depending on the produce they have picked up at the market and the same applies for desserts. With a glass or bottle of wine from their selection of brands, Greek or foreign music, Filomila is the summer favourite of tourists.

04

Jar

16 e. roidis street, ermoupoli, tel: +30 22810 79225

Since its creation in 2008, jar spreads its 118/SYROS

Τhe Dream

positive energy & sweet tales @ Syros island. Always ready to delight you with exquisite, on-the spot prepared pastries, savories, beverages and funky cocktails for your soul!!

05

Greek Coffee Shop

miaouli square, ermoupoli, tel: +30 2281 089248

In a restored neoclassical building at the center of Ermoupolis, the Greek Coffee Shop

personifies Greek hospitality with an aura of ancient Athens, of Zeus and Hermes.

Those who visit enjoy all the specialties of the coffee shop as well as savoury and sweet dishes made with local products which you can also buy and cook them yourself using your own recipes.

06

Τhe Dream

theatrou square, ermoupoli, tek: +30 22810 79416

The old Jardino reintroduces itself as a

new café-resto-bar.

The beautiful yard coloured in white and green, invites you to try the few and well-made Mediterranean specials, like moussakas with Syrian sausage, all created with local produce. Different fish is offered every day, so ask the waiter to tell you what’s on offer. For dessert, the rose-flavoured Turkish delight ice cream is ideal for your palate and taste buds.

LiFO choice

syros

Εlia bar restaurant

Athymaritis

07

Εlia bar restaurant

32 chiou street, ermoupoli, syros, tel: +30 2281076301

Situated in one of the oldest buildings on the island, in a quiet neighbourhood, Elia is unique for Syros. Apart from serving breakfast and coffee from 12.30 onwards, the traditional meze and dishes for lunch and its 30 wine labels or drinks and cocktails in the evening, you may also borrow a book from its library and lose yourself in its pages. It also functions as an art center 120/SYROS

exhibiting photos and organising live gigs with underground bands. Extra tip: During the entire summer a menu with great offers will be available.

08

Athymaritis

2 keas street, ermoupoli, syros, tel: +30 22810 82261

Dozens of sweets wait for you to try them in one of the best confectionary shops on the island which you will love.

Try the home-made yogurt with honey and nuts ice cream and the meringues which will delight your palate.

LiFO choice

syros

Ζylo Eyewear

Podilato

09

Ζylo Eyewear

langada talanda, ermoupoli, tel: +30 22810 71253

The waves of the Mediterranean, the golden sand, the beaches and the feeling left from the summer breeze are expressed through ZYLO eyeglasses, which are handmade and made of wood.

With 10 brand names for men’s eyewear (Serpico, Skate, Blaze, Mensa, etc) and 13 for women (Fly, Sand, Twiggy, Felis, etc) it’s certain you’ll find what you’re looking for.

Pericles and Eleni create eyewear that is inspired from the 122/SYROS

Aegean, putting emphasis on detail and a sophisticated end product.

10

Podilato

1 sperhiou & milou, ermoupoli beach, syros, tel: +30 2810 89399

Come here for good coffee or come for a snack while you’re spending the day at the beach. For drinks and cocktails, Podilato is your choice again. The music played is classic rock, reggae, new wave, jazz, funk, ethnic, etc, while on special occasions we have DJ sets. To find all of the above, come to Podilato.

124/SIFNOS

photos by spiros staveris

/THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Sifnos Many people claim that this is the most beautiful island in Cyclades. Maybe they are right!

photos by spiros staveris

If pirates roamed the Aegean today and had a treasure map with X marking the spot, that X would be Sifnos.

The treasures of Sifnos are revealed to the traveller one by one.

It’s the quaint village of Exabelos where time has stopped, the fresh seafood in Herronissos, the flat rock formations from which you dive in the clear blue sea in Chrisopigi, the eclectic stores in Apollonia. The island is the birthplace of Greece’s most famous chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, who authored the first complete cookbook on Greek and French classic 126/SIFNOS

recipes. The cookbook became a huge success and was reprinted at least 15 times. Today, an overused copy of it is found in almost every Greek household.

Modern Sifnians have embraced this heritage and pay special attention to what is being served on the table.

Try the island specialty, chickpea soup or chickpea balls, fried small shrimp, known as simiako garidaki, local cheese like xinomizithra, capers and casserole dishes, the delicious sesame bars made with local honey, pies with white halva, marzipans and small pastries and you

will see why the island is loved by gourmet Greeks and foreigners alike. Sifnos’s success has been its ability to develop a healthy local tourism industry without altering the character of the island and its low-key charm.

So low key, that the annual summer arrival of a former Greek prime minister to the island goes largely unnoticed. Sifnians seem keen to keep things running this way, by focusing on quality and not quantity.

Entering the rocky harbour of the island, the visitor has the first view of Kamares, the second busiest village

after the capital and main town, Apollonia.

The village extends from one end of the harbour to the other with several grocery stores, bakeries and tavernas lining its sea shore. The sandy beach in the middle of the harbour is Agia Marina, which gathers mostly families and people playing ferociously with their wooden beach rackets.

The waters are clean and shallow, making them ideal for kids, while adults can find respite and a cold fruit juice on the nearby café-restaurant. The old bakery of Venios (Kamares, Tel: +30

photos by spiros staveris

/THE GREEK ISLANDS sifnos FOR VISITORS/

22840 33650) sells the cheese pies and sweet cream pies (bougatsa) you will need to carry with you on your walks around the island.

With a path network of about 200 kilometres, Sifnos is perfect for hiking. The best season to hike is spring and autumn when the pastures are greener and wildflowers are in full bloom, but even in the summer, 128/SIFNOS

Sifnos’ inland is still enchanting. The area which covers about 20 square kilometres and stretches from Profitis Ilias Mountain - where the namesake monastery stands – all the way to the western shores of the island was integrated into the European Network of Natural Protected Areas “Natura 2000”.

Walking around the area, the visitor sees the dry stone walls

built by islanders to limit ground erosion and define property boundaries, white dovecotes, olive trees, herb bushes, wells, monasteries and churches, birds and small animals.

The ancient citadel of Agios Andreas (Tel: +30 22840 31488, open daily 08:3015:00, except Mondays), the most important archaeological site of Sifnos, was

first discovered at the end of the 19th century and proved the area was inhabited from Mycenaean times. The well preserved 10-acre citadel dominating the top of the hill shed light into the life, activities and beliefs of the people who inhabited the area.

Apart from its historic significance, the area offers panoramic vistas of the island and the villages of Apollonia, Ano Petali and Artemonas. At the edge of the citadel stands the small church of Agios Andreas. The site is situated on the way to Vathi beach and can be reached by car.

After you pass the 16th century Monastery of Firogia, turn right towards the hill of Agios Andreas.

The most popular beach is Platis Yalos, a long populated stretch of sand where couples and families spend their days and evenings. The village is fully organised with cafés, grocery stores, rooms to let and tourist agencies.

Apart from good food, Sifnos is also known for its high quality of pottery and there are several workshops in Vathi, the village where the art originates. From here you may also buy the clay cooking pot used throughout the island to make the famous revithatha (chickpea soup). Many workshops are open to visitors who are in-

terested in seeing how humble clay turns into a beautiful and useful object. Vathi is also a popular beach with quiet waters and small sail boats anchored around the cove.

The most impressive location to swim is Chrisopigi, named after the small, whitewashed monastery standing on the rocky peninsula. This peninsula separates Chrisopigi in two coves; the one on the left - as you face the monastery - forms a small beach called Apokofto with plenty of tamarisks for shade and two excellent tavernas waiting for you at the back. On the cove on the right is

the very small, pebbled Saoures, favoured by those who want more privacy. This is also the only known beach in Sifnos where you might see nudists. The third spot for swimming is the flat rocks on the right side of the peninsula, where you will see people diving off the smooth rocks into the deep blue sea.

The picture perfect location of the church has made it an ideal wedding location. All too often swimmers climbing up the rocks and entering the yard of Chrisopigi dazed by the sun, find themselves next to elegantly dressed guests who are waiting for the bride.

To go off the beaten

path, drive 15 kilometres to Herronissos at the northern part of the island. Herronissos is a forgotten fishing village, with a few houses and some anchored sailboats seeking refuge from the strong northern winds.

The beach is small with colourful small fishing boats bobbing up and down the water and good fish taverns where you will lick your fingers after the aromatic fish soup (made similar to bouillabaisse), fresh lobster and seafood. Just before you reach Herronissos is Vroulithia, a beach with large pebbles, clear blue waters and a few sun loungers and umbrellas. The

rocks and green waters of Poulati beach at the eastern coast make it ideal for snorkelling.

To reach it, you follow the signs to Poulati, then park by the small church and walk down the dirt path behind it. Remember to bring water and food because there aren’t any stores at the beach.

At the southeastern part of the island, close to Chrisopigi, are three coves forming the area and village of Faros.

The fishing village has a small beach with shallow waters and sand. Fasolou is the quiet cove right next to it with plenty of tamarisks to lie under.

If you like swimming in deep waters, head

photos by spiros staveris

to the flat rocks of Eptamartires found below Kastro village.

To get there, there’s a paved path from Kastro which leads to the mysterious church of Eptamartires and from there another path on the left leads to the diving area.

The picturesque main town of Apollonia wakes from its lethargic midday mode after 6pm, when the heat subsides. The town is comprised of a small noisy main square where buses from Kamares stop and the main narrow alley on the right leading into the heart of the village. This alley is called to steno (the alley) and quickly fills up with sun kissed faces going in and out of the jewellery shops.

Don’t forget to try the famous Greek-style donuts called loukoumades with honey and cinnamon, or chocolate syrup, which are served peeping hot right out of the caul130/SIFNOS

dron. Cafés and restaurants in Apollonia fill up very quickly so you need to get there 7pm to find a table.

A few small shops in the alley sell sarongs and a canvas backpack called drouvas, which is made locally.

Locals call Apollonia and the almost merged quarter of Ano Petali, Stavri (Stavros means cross) because, when seen from above, the white square buildings form a cross. Apollonia is home to a Folklore museum, two pharmacies and a few banks.

The picturesque village of Artemonas is a few minutes’ walk from Apollonia and is much quieter than the main town. Old mansions are scattered around the cobbled alleyways with colourful blooms in pottery pots, old whitewashed churches, traditional bakeries and a few tavernas on the main square. Walk towards the windmills at the eastern part of

the village, known as Bella Vista, for a spectacular view over Kastro and the sea.

Every September, the island’s cultural association organises a three-day festival of Cycladic gastronomy in honour of Nikolaos Tselementes. Visitors to Artemonas have the opportunity to taste local specialties and participate in the celebrations.

The cluster of whitewashed houses and walls which form the medieval fortification of Kastro village in the eastern coast is all about location.

The sight of village on the hill-top as you approach it by car is like a postcard. The buildings inside the settlement form two circles, with the inner one made up of the houses of the rich and the outer circle from more simple constructions. Cars are not allowed in, so you are able to enjoy a quiet walk through the arch-

ways and meandering alleys. The cafés of Kastro, strategically located towards the east, allow for sweeping views of the ocean and the nearby islands.

To the west of Kastro village, below the hill, is the pebbled beach of Seralia.

When the moon is up, head back to the steno (the main alleyway) of Apollonia for the first drink of the evening in one of the many bars lining the alley.

The riotous panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days) taking place in Sifnos are for locals the opportunity to get together and celebrate with plenty of food and wine set on long tables outside the churches. During the summer, there’s one on 20th July at the Church of Profitis Ilias (there are two Profitis Ilias churches; the one closer to Kamares is really special) and on 1st September at the church of Agios Simeon. The festival on 15th August (on Assumption Day) is celebrated all around Greece, but it is more colourful in the Cyclades.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus port with Sifnos.

Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

LiFO choice

Sifnos

Verina Suites/ Verina Villa/Verina Astra

Argyris

Verina Suites/ Verina Villa/ Verina Astra 01

platis gialos, sifnos, tel: +30 22840 71525

Verina is located inside an olive tree grove and the sea is within walking distance.

Guests have been arriving in Verina for a few years and the staff makes sure they have a pleasant stay. Either you book one of the four apartments, the two suites, or the seven luxury suites of Verina Astra, r the even more luxurious Verina Villa, you will find all the amenities you require and then

Veranda bar

some, like spa, air con, hamam, safe, TV, beach towels etc. Each venue has its own charm. The suites are located near the hill of the castle, where there is an ancient fortress in an open, cobblestone area. The view iis the entire Aegean, while in the villa you can relax and exercise in the pool, or at the tennis court. The staff at Verina take care of everything, like your excursions to nearby islands, yoga classes, or they can organise a specific event (wedding, christening, reunion) or a simple

meal among friends.

02

Argyris

agia marina kamares, sifnos, tel: +30 22840 32352

Situated right next to the beach, with a view over the port of Kamares, Mr Argyris satisfies your appetite with oven-cooked meals and grilled meat, island specialties, local ingredients and a large selection of seafood and meze.

03

Veranda bar

apollonia, sifnos, tel: +30 22840 33969

If you’re looking for a place to hang out

while you’re on the island where you will feel like they’ve known you and you’ve known them for years, Veranda, at the entrance to Apollonia, is where you should head to. The place e has been a standard meeting point since 2004. For coffee in the morning for cold snacks and waffles after noon and until sunset and for imaginative cocktails and lounge music at night, Veranda is one of the most classic Cycladic bar-restaurants, with a great view.

/THE

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS/

Serifos Αmazing sandy beaches will keep you by the sea all day long, in this beautifull small island.

132/SERIFOS

Serifos is a very dry island, even by Cycladic standards, but beautiful nonetheless. As the ferry approaches to the port, you see the characteristic white, sugar-lump-like houses of Hora, the islands’ main town, covering the hillside like spilt milk. According to the myth, Serifos was first inhabited by the Cyclopes, the mythical one-eyed monsters who built and worked the local iron mines, producing wealth for the island

and which they later passed on to humans.

On a more historical note, archaeological evidence shows the island was inhabited in turn by the Cretans, Phoenicians and the Mycenaeans.

There’s a fairly organised bus service connecting the port, Livadi, to Hora, but the best idea is to rent a car so that you can discover the villages and beaches scattered around the island.

Right next to Livadi is the crescent-shaped

Avlomonas beach, one of the busiest places to lay your sea-towel.

Livadakia beach is only a short walk away from the port and further south is the wide, sandy Karavi beach, preferred by nudists. North of the port is Lia beach, the popular and noisy Psili Ammos and the sandy, long Agios Ioannis.

On the southwestern coast is Megalo Livadi, a seafront village next to the abandoned iron mines. Close to Megalo Livadi is another

secluded cove called Malliathiko. North of Megalo Livadi is the quiet and pebbled Avessalos beach.

South of Psili Ammos is Agios Sostis beach located on one side of a small rocky peninsula. On the south coast is the pebbled and secluded Ganema beach and right next to it is the sandy Vaya, where you have to bring an umbrella as there is not one green leaf in site. On the southeastern tip of the coast is Kalo Ambeli,

/THE GREEK ISLANDS serifos FOR VISITORS/

a small cove formed by two jutting rock formations, where you will probably be alone.

Bring water and food.

Driving to the northeast is the small Kendarhos beach (follow the path from Kallitsos village) with its few tamarisks providing much-needed shade.

Last but not least, Sykamia beach on the northwest is a popular place dotted with the colourful umbrellas of tourists. For those who seek a little action on the beach, try Serifos Scuba Divers (Livadi, Tel: +30 22810 52005, www.serifosscubadiv-

ers.gr), who organise diving trips, walks into the old mines of Megalo Livadi and all water sports, including the newest craze, Flyboard.

Hora is a beautiful, quiet village with archetypical Cycladic architecture and friendly locals. The ruined 15th century Venetian castle towering the village offers a great opportunity for a walk and panoramic views of the island and beyond.

Right on the top of the steep hill is the church of Agios Constantinos.

Back in the village, the neoclassical Town Hall

LiFO choice

01

Albatros Hotel

avlamonas beach, livadi, serifos, tel: +30 22810 51148

serifos

Albatros Hotel 134/SERIFOS

and the small Archaeological museum (Tel: +30 22810 31022) are worth a visit. A nearby neoclassical house houses the Folk Art Museum (open from 18:00-21:00), where local costumes and tolls are exhibited.

Behind the building there’s an open-air theatre with 300 seats which houses the annual music festival.

At the north of Hora is the deserted settlement of Pyrgos which comes to life on the festival (panigiri) held on Assumption Day (August 15th). In the village of Megalo Livadi, the old

The hotel is situated next to Avlamona’s beach at Livadi and near the port of Serifos. It has 22 pleasant rooms equipped with air con, fridge, wifi, TV etc. Close to the hotel you will find the Wildlife Sanctuary, the Church of Kimiseos, a mini-market and all

buildings and rails are a testament to the once lively community of the miners who lived and worked in the area. You can still visit the abandoned mines, which closed in 1963, and see the old loading bridge rusting under the hot sun.

Getting there: There are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Serifos. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

the bars of the island, where you can have a drink.

02

Yacht club

livadi, serifos, tel: +30 2810 51888

A traditional coffee shop with a view over the Aegean blue. It first attracts you with the smell of coffee mainly Greek - and then, when you take a seat, with the delicious spoon sweets and biscuits.

Koufonissia

Koufonissia are part of the Small Cyclades, a cluster of five small islands southeast of Naxos: Iraklia, Schinousa, Donousa and Koufonissia. Back in the 1980s, the only people who chose to travel to this part of the Aegean known as agoni grammi (ferry routes with very low passenger and commercial traffic that no shipping company cared to service) were the odd bearded backpacker and loners. The trend started to change in the mid-1990s, when the appetite for popular islands was saturated and a new one emerged for off-the-beatentrack destinations. The biggest recipient of the newly found interest in remote islands was Koufonissi, whose tourist infrastructure went from having 136/Koufonissia

one camping site, two tavernas and two cafĂŠs to dozens of rooms, boutique hotels, apartments and bars spread all over the island. The inhabitants on all these islands are mainly fishermen who supply the local tavernas with their daily catch. The islands are ideal for those who are interested in resting and swimming and not so much in culture, as there is not much sightseeing to be done.

Iraklia has remained largely unchanged and very quiet. The main village is not particularly scenic but has retained this old-times charm. Livadi beach is where most tourists stop for a swim but you can seek out more lovely beaches if you walk along the coastline. Shinousa is a prettier island and owes its

beauty to the simplicity of the landscape and the tranquil lifestyle. If you’re serious about escaping modernity, this is the island for you, as it has no nightlife, no banks and no fuel stations. It does have many beaches with emerald-green waters along its coastline. The biggest of the group is Donousa, an island chosen for its golden beaches, quiet lifestyle and ample free camping space at Kedros, Kalotaritisa and Livadi.

Kedros beach – the only beach where nudism and free camping is officially allowed - attracts divers and snorkelers who want to explore what little is left of the wreckage of the Orion, a destroyer boat which sunk in WWII. Donousa has four small villages; the port - Stavros, the tiny,

almost uninhabited Messaria, Mersini, with panoramic views of the island and Kalotaritisa at the edge of the island.

Koufonissia, consist of three islands; Pano (=Upper), Kato (=Lower) Koufonissi, and Keros. Of the three, only Pano Koufonissi is inhabited. Koufonissi was forgotten for years

by Gods and men, until word-of-mouth made it as popular as Mykonos, but without the variety of its restaurants and nightlife.

Koufonissi, along with Donousa, are often described as heaven on earth, because of the picture perfect turquoise waters and endless sandy beaches.

Tanned Italians with tribal tattoos constitute the bulk of tourists but Greeks are a close second. Most distances

/THE GREEK ISLANDS Koufonissia FOR VISITORS/

on the island can be covered by foot or a bicycle, but you can also rent a motorcycle.

A small piece of trivia: it seems every other person’s surname on the island is Prasinos (Green); therefore it is very likely that a Mr or Mrs Green will be your local host, boat captain, or taverna owner.

The island is rather flat and only has one village, Hora, which is in essence an extension of the port. The first beach to be found on Koufonissi is the port itself, Megali Ammos, a favourite among families. If you start walking southwards (towards your left when facing the port) you will soon reach Harokopou, which is also popular with families. Continuing 138/Koufonissia

along the coastline, you enter the clothes-free zone on the beaches of Fanos and its camping site, busy Italida and further out the somewhat quieter Pori. Keep an eye for the small coves hidden behind rock formations. They are usually only big enough for you and your significant other or a party of six at the most and offer privacy and the amazing feeling of being the only human on the planet.

The island is full of caves and interesting rock formations which is why it was named koufo, a variation of the word koufio - hollow. A famous formation on the way to Pori is the “eye of the devil” which is essentially a large, pool-like hole in the rocks with a beautiful view of the sea. To

the northwest you will find Parianos, a cove with a wide sandy beach well protected from the wind.

There’s not much variety in the culinary world of Koufonissi, but you will find delicious fresh fish, lobsters and seafood delivered daily from fishermen in local tavernas, as well as goat and lamb meat from local herds.

For a change in your swimming routine, take the boat to Kato Koufonissi and choose between Nero, which

welcomes nudists, Mastroyiorgis, Pezoulia Fikio and Theti, four beaches and coves blessed with the same crystal waters as the Upper island. There are a few fishing huts scattered around, the church of Panagia and a taverna. There are also daily services from Hora to remote beaches and uninhabited islets. Koufonissi is crowded during July and August so your best chance of making the most of it is to arrive either in June or September.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Upper Koufonissi and daily services from Piraeus to Naxos Island. From Naxos, there is a daily ferry service connecting all the islands of the Small Cyclades. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

LiFOce i cho issia on f u Ko

Sorocos Cocktail Bar

Milos

01

Sorocos Cocktail Bar

ano koufonissi, tel: +30 22850 71704

In this bar you will be sitting right next to the sea, with a view of Keros Island. Here you will have your beer or a refreshing cocktail after swimming, while in the evening you will return to dance and enjoy a summer 140/Koufonissia

night that you only experience in Sorocos.

You will also find an art exhibition room where ceramics, as well as other art forms, are exhibited.

02

Milos

ano koufinissi, tel: +30 6978 693413, 22850 74403

A perfect coffee and cocktail bar situated right above the port

of the island. There is nothing old in Mylos despite the fact that is housed in an old but recently refurbished mill. A magical spot that offers its visitors exquisite views to the Aegean and Keros.

While you are at Mylos you will have the opportunity to enjoy fine coffees in the morning listening to some chill out

music. As the night begins to fall Mylos changes int its blue suit. The place comes alive together with the rest of the island.

There is a true feel of what we call “island atmosphere” at Mylos, the ideal spot for romancing while you are on holidays here! Don’t forget to try the cocktails!

LiFOce i cho issia on f u Ko

Gastronaftis

Ateriasti

04

Gastronaftis

ano koufonissi, tel: +30 22850 71468

Its name signifies someone who knows about gastronomy and travels in the Greek seas to bring you fresh fish and seafood daily.

The food is authentic Mediterranean using good quality ingredients to create dishes which meet the expectations you have when you choose to 142/Koufonissia

visit the island and Gastronaftis. The food satisfies all your senses, with first and foremost your vision.

The friendly service and cosy atmosphere are some of its advantages.

05

Ateriasti

koufonissia, tel: +30 22850 71834, 6944 244158

The traditional kitchen of Mrs Anna prepares on a daily

basis mezedes and local specialties full of fragrant herbs from the Cycladic country.

Home-made filled pastry, stuffed wine leaves with lemon and egg sauce, lamb with potatoes in the oven, sea urchin spaghetti, mullets, moussakas by Mrs Pothiti, aubergine in pastry cooked in a ceramic pot by Melenia are some of the dishes you will find.

And if you like these, you will definitely love the dusky grouper in red sauce and the rice with scampi. Here you will also taste their famous rakomelo or raki drink, along with other beverages.

The music here is traditional folk songs as well as rebetika.

06

Koufohorio

kato koufonissi, tel: +30 22850 74507

A cosy cafe-bar with

LiFOce i cho issia on f u Ko

Koufonissia Hotel & Resort

Kalamia cafĂŠ bar

a playful and funny atmosphere. Iit will become your hangout joint during your stay on the island. Coffee, homemade deserts and rakomelo await you to try them. In the evenings, the chosen music is swing, soul and blues which signal the beginning of your night with drinks and cocktails.

144/Koufonissia

Koufohorio

07

Kalamia cafĂŠ bar

ano koufonissi, tel: +30 22850 74444

Whatever you may want to eat or drink, Kalamia is the place.

Do you just want to have breakfast and a cup of coffee? You will come here. Do you want to have a dessert, ice cream or a fruit juice? You will

come here. If you just want to have a quiet night out and listen to some music, you will again choose Kalamia.

Koufonissia Hotel & Resort 08

ano koufinisi, tel: +30 2285074068

Just 150 meters from the crystal blue beaches of Ano Koufonissi

is the only 4-star hotel of the Small Cyclades.

In a 17,000 sqm venue you will find a fully refurbished stone house with a beautiful garden featuring rare Mediterranean plants. Here you will undoubtedly enjoy one of its 50 rooms and your dives into the pool.

Amorgos If you want to polish your French or Italian, Amorgos is the place to do it, because the island is full of tourists from these two countries – which proves their good taste. The easternmost island of the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main village, Hora, and its celebrated crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc Besson’s movie “The Big Blue”. The island is a quiet place where you will enjoy archetypical Cycladic architecture, tra146/AMORGOS

ditional customs and reasonable prices.

The island has two ports, Katapola and Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which are worth a visit to observe the lifestyle of the islanders, especially if you visit at the time of a panigiri (festivals held on saints’ days, the main one being on August 15th).

Amorgos is dry and mountainous with its three highest peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking, diving and climb-

ing are some of the islanders’ favourite pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73611, email: scuba@amorgosdiving.com, www. amorgos-diving. com) plans all three.

The small company started with diving trips around Amorgos’s coast line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by experienced guides.

In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which con-

nect the main villages. This initiative has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round. As you hike through the arid land, you encounter small white churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to retain much needed rain water and herds of goats grazing between shrubs.

Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at the west, the biggest on the island and

/THE GREEK ISLANDS amorgos FOR VISITORS/

the small valley of Katapola at the centre. Look up and you see the windmills standing proudly on the mountain ridge.

All those adventurous souls out there, you’d be happy to know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an elaborate treasure hunt). If your mobile phone has a GPS, log in www.geocaching. com, follow the instructions and you’re good to go. The website www.amorgos-island-magazine.

148/AMORGOS

com has, among other island information, tips on geocaches stashed around the island, as well as a relevant map.

A walk around Hora reveals the slow paced life of the islanders. People leave their doors open, whiffs of oven cooked beef escape from the green and red shutters and stray cats roam around lazily, hoping to find a little something to eat. Just like the other Cycladic villages, this one also was under Vene-

tian rule and has a castle to prove it. It was built by Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th century to defend the island against invaders who also built the church of Agios Georgios (Saint George). The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological Museum (open TueSun 09:00-13:00 and 18:00-20:30) with its impressive selection of statues, parts of columns and utensils dug out from three ancient settlements on the island.

Tholaria is the most picturesque village inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for dinner and a view of the sunset. Langada village, just before Tholaria, is just as charming and worth a visit. Islanders gather at the square of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce with old ladies looking on from their house entrances.

Perched perilously on a rocky mountainside 300 metres above sea level, the Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts.

Climbing up the endless stone steps is a feat in its own mer-

it, but the view from the small plateau which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth the effort. The monastery was built by Byzantine Empreror Alexios Komninos in 1088. If you’re in Amorgos on November 21st, join locals at the panigiri organised at the monastery for a special treat of free local specialties and loads of dance.

Another interesting sight on the island is the villa of Iannis Xenakis - Greek composer, theorist and architect - built for his daughter and her husband between 1966 and 1977, close to Lefkes village, overlooking the gulf of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at Le Corbusier’s studios between 1947 and 1959, designed a typical Cycladic building with clear modernist elements, like the thunderboltlike openings on the walls. Built between 1966 and 1977, it consists of four white separate buildings forming a curve.

Amorgos has a few beaches which are easily accessible, but for the rest you will need to do some easy or more serious hiking. Get a map, a bottle of water and walking shoes and you’re ready to go.

/THE GREEK ISLANDS amorgos FOR VISITORS/ A favoured option is Agia Anna, whose crystal clear blue waters featured in "The Big Blue". If you continue driving past Agia Anna you will find Kambi, a beach popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos, close to Vroutsi village is Mouros beach which can be reached by car and then you descend a dirt path for 10 minutes to reach its rocky shore.

Psili Ammos beach is a long stretch

of sand with pristine water which can be reached either by boat, or by a 35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk from Ormos, you will see Levrosos, the perfect beach for nudists. At the south, there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by boat to the uninhabited island of Gramvousa for a swim.

The quiet beach of Agios Pavlos is close to the namesake village. At the tip of the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of

white sand forms a natural, picture perfect “peninsula�. If the beach is full by the time you reach it, walk about 20 minutes south of Agios Pavlos and you will find small secluded beaches. From the side of Katapola, you will find in turn the organised Maltezi beach, Agios Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies.

Amorgian women are known as excellent embroiders. The linen and silk white headscarves embroidered with floral patterns make for a gorgeous neck scarf.

Their level of artist-

ry and detailed work has earned Amorgian embroidery a place in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which houses a finely embroidered linen strip from the 18th century.

Amorgos is not a party island, but you will find a few quiet bars to sip your beer.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Amorgos. For ferry websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

LiFOce i cho os rg o m a

Aegialis Hotel & Spa

Μarouso

01

Aegialis Hotel & Spa

egiali, amorgos, tel: +30 22850 73393

Staying at Aegialis Hotel & Spa is something more than a simple choice. It is the place where you’ll never be bored. It may be a hotel but it offers many different activities. You will either stay in one of the six buildings of Cycladic architecture and decoration, in a room or one of the suites, all of which are fully equipped. At Corte Wet Café you 152/AMORGOS

Κallisto

will drink your coffee and have breakfast, at Ambrosia restaurant you will have lunch or dinner, while if you crave Italian you will visit the new Nick’s Pizza. In the evening you may go for a drink and some dancing at Fresh Bar. To relax, all you have to do is visit the spa or attend the yoga classes being offered.

02

Μarouso

arkesini, amorgos, tel: +30 22850 72331

Traditional taverna, one of those you only

find in Greece, with rebetika music, good quality alcohol, great seafood. The house specialty is the stuffed calamari.

03

Κallisto

then eat your dessert: Filo desserts with syrup, ice cream, cakes and tarts that will make your day.

04

Evdokia’s Car & Bike Rental

hora of amorgos, tel: +30 22850 74094

aegiali village, tel: +30 22850 73050, www.askaspension.gr

As you stroll around the alleyways of Hora, you will be enticed by the smells and you will find yourself in front of this pastry shopcafé where you will enjoy a hearty breakfast made from local produce, drink coffee, tea or other drinks and

A car hiring company which can cover all your needs during your holidays. The company has a fleet of new cars and scooters (125 cc) available daily to those who want to explore the beautiful landscape of the island. To better serve

Amorgos Diving Centre

Botilia Bar

you, the company delivers and picks up the car from any location on the island.

05

Amorgos Diving Centre

aegiali, amorgos, tel: +30 22850 73611, www.amorgosdiving.com

For those of you who enjoy extreme sports and water activities, Amorgos Diving Centre is there to teach you how to explore the underwater world of the island. If you’ve never tried diving before, the trained and

experienced staff will show you the basic principles and secrets of diving. The Center also organises group hiking tours or climbing tours around the island.

06

Botilia Bar

hora of amorgos, tel: +30 6936 184321

Everyone comes here to see the garden, to try the different and imaginative cocktails and to sing/dance at the – mostly foreign – music, from all genres and all decades.

Tinos

Enchanting yet still unknown to the majority of tourists, this Cycladic island mostly attracts Greek pilgrims travelling there twice a year, on March 25 and August 15, to visit the church of Panagia Megalochari (the Blessed Virgin Mary).

From all over the country, people come here to fulfill their vows and to seek comfort. Tinos is the most important Orthodox centre of worship in Greece but, in the same time, an important Catholic centre too; this so rare in Greece mix of religious traditions gives to the island a particular character.

But a pilgrimage is not the only reason for getting to know the amazing island of Tinos, with the beautiful beaches and the 40 traditional villages, or, 154/TINOS

according to the philosopher Kastoriadis, the “hand-made Tinos”.This island is the homeland of renowned great artists of marble carving such as Gyzis, Lytras, Chalepas, Filippotis and Sochos, who have been the last famous names to have held the baton of the island’s marble-carving tradition. According to the legend, the famous sculptor of the ancient times, Fidias, had taught the secrets of his art to the locals.

Their admirable craft is displayed in chapels, fountains, arches and pigeon lofts. In the village of Pyrgos the Marble Art Museum is worth a visit as much as the Gallery of Tinian Artists right next to the church of Virgin Mary.

Tinos is a very interesting place to visit. One can enjoy its unspoiled

architecture, its picturesque villages, its beautiful beaches and its traditional culture and way of living that has been going on through the years.

The pan-hellenic festivities in honour of Virgin Mary on August 15 are accompanied by other festivals like those in Tsiknias and Exombourgo and the gastronomic feasts involving artichoke and raki in Falatados as well as the festival of honey in Kampos. Tinos is the ideal place for nature lovers, architecture, art and tradition, and the perfect answer to the relative expectations.

The scenic villages of Tinos

Pyrgos, the village of the marble artists: Lying away from the seashore and where a Venetian castle used to

stand (the word “pyrgos” in Greek means “castle”) Pyrgos is one of the largest villages of the island and, definitely, the centre of the marble art of Tinos.

The fountain dedicated to the Greek Revolution of 1821, the marble work on the churches, the houses and the two museums make obvious that sculpture enjoys a long tradition in Pyrgos.Since 1955 the Art School for Marble Sculpture has supported this long tradition.

Agapi: The picturesque settlement lies in the shape of an amphitheatre on the edge of a valley that adjoins the plain of Komi.

One of Tino’s most abundant brooks winds its way through the valley, which is dotted with well-preserved

/THE GREEK ISLANDS TINOS FOR VISITORS/

dovecotes. The arcades and the houses with the pretty lintels above their doors and windows play their part into making Agapi one of the most traditional villages of the island.

Arnados: Tino’s highest village is on the south flank of the Kechrovouni Mountain, close to the Church museum where you can see old icons, books and other religious items. A breathtaking panorama is the backdrop to classical Tinos-style cooking with meat prepared with locally grown ingredients. Don’t leave the area before visiting the monastery of Kechrovouni (10th century) a big edifice looking like a fortified village. There you can see the cell of nun Pelagia, and a museum 156/TINOS

where several remarkable icons from the18th and 19th centuries, as well as other important heirlooms, are kept.

Volax: Α tiny village, located in the interior of the island, almost hidden in the middle of rounded, giant granite blocks, with houses that are built onto the rocks. It is one of the most interesting villages to explore, as its architecture is unique on the island.

Many of its houses are actually built on top of the boulders! Although tiny in size, the village has two tavernas, a gift shop, a folklore museum, a small stone open-air theater and a few remaining basket weavers still making their sturdy artifacts.

You can also find local honey, herbs, dried

figs and tomatoes, capers and wine. Also interesting to view is the tiny Catholic village church next door to the folklore museum.

It is exactly what you would expect a village church to look like! A footpath winds down the valley to Agapi village.

Agios Ioannis Porto, Agios Sostis, Agios Romanos, Agios Fokas and Kionia are just some of the beautiful and calm beaches the coastline of Tinos is dotted with. Clear-watered and soft-sanded, these beaches provide perfect places for relax.

But when visitors have to choose just one, they tend to prefer Pachia Ammos, a wonderful thus very popular beach in the South.

Kolimbithra is a natural seawater basin with two sand-covered beaches. The smaller one has deckchairs and umbrellas, a volleyball net, freshwater showers and WCs. Once used by the marble exporters, the harbour of Panormos is today a popular excursion destination. It is a picturesque spot with colorful fishing-boats and sandy beaches. Out in the bay, there is an impressive rock called “the planet”.

On the warm, south side of Tinos, directly under the spectacular village of Kardiani there is an elongated pebbled stretch of beach, called Ormos Yannaki, with sunshades and wonderful

views of the neighbouring island of Syros.

Finally, Ormos Ysternion is a small scenic port with adjacent pebble seashore and fishermen’s huts along the water’s edge.

A two-minute walk will bring you to a sandy beach well protected from the wind.

Koumelas and Mali are two beaches in the North that, apart from being gorgeous, they are always wellprotected, even when the winds are harsh. In any case, ask the locals which beach to swim at should the winds be strong. cultural resources: A walk through the town of Tinos will give you the chance to visit its main sights. Do not miss: Panagia Evangelistria (or Megalochari) church: It was established in 1823 and built on the spot where the icon of Annunciation had been found after a vision nun Pelagia had.

It is a majestic building made of white Tinian and Parian (=from Paros) marble. The exhibition of icons and heirlooms comprising of old icons from local churches and the ambry including works of gold thread embroidery and silverware are worth seeing.

• The memorial of Elli, the Greek battle cruiser which was torpedoed by an Italian submarine outside the port of Tinos in August 1940.

Next to the Evresis (=discovery) church

/THE GREEK ISLANDS TINOS FOR VISITORS/

(dedicated to the finding of the holy icon) which is located at the first floor of Evangelistria church, you will find the memorial to the soldiers who lost their lives when Elli was sunk.

• The Art Gallery exhibiting remarkable works of Greek and foreign painters.

• The “Small Park” where you can observe the busts of major Tinian artists.

• Agios Nikolaos Katholikon Church.

• Koimisis tis Theotokou church.

• The fountain dating back to the reign of Otto, first King of Greece (19th century).

• The building of the Foundation of Tinos Civilization exhibiting works made by the renowned Greek sculptor Giannoulis Chalepas.

• The location known as “Pallada” near the 158/TINOS

port.

• The church of the Holy Cross where you can see relics of the harbor breakwaters (1816).

• The ruins of the wall of the ancient city.

• The memorial to the Fallen (1912) offering an amazing view of the port.

• The Archaeological Museum exhibiting findings from the sanctuaries of Demeter and Poseidon (7th century) and Amphitrite (dating back to the Hellenistic period).

• The Tinian Artists Museum.

Archaeological sites on Tinos

Kionia: The sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite has been discovered close to the village of Kionia. It used to be a Hellenistic sanctuary of great religious importance

with a two-faced long stoa and a small Doric peristyle temple of the 2nd century BC with a sanctum altar and a fountain. Roman baths and imperial statues of the period 1st-3rd centuries AD have also been found in the same area.

Agia Thekla: Mycenaean tholos tombs of the 13th century BC with lots of pottery and jewellery items have been found.

Exombourgo: It used to be the most important ancient town of the island, built in the 8th century BC. To remind the glory days, there are now remnants in the area, comprising those of a temple dedicated to the goddesses Demeter and Persephone. Geometric and archaic vessels have been found too.

The Peisistratos Aqueduct: During the

years of the tyranny of Peisistratos in Athens, the island acquired an aqueduct built between 549 and 542 BC. What is amazing is that Tinos stopped depending on that aqueduct for its water supplies only in1934!

One can come across other archaeological finds in the area of the villages Gastria, Vryokastro, and Marla.

Churches and Monasteries on Tinos Tinos is the island of Virgin Mary, the religious island of the Cyclades par excellence. No wonder over 750 churches lie on its land, with 220 of them being Catholic ones.

Apart from the churches of Panagia (=Virgin Mary) and Evresis, in the town of Tinos there are also the churches of Agios Ioannis, the Taxiarhes church with the iconostasis of the

18th century, and the Catholic churches of Agios Nikolas and Agios Antonios.

In Falatado, you can visit the marble church of Agios Ioannis and the largest church on Tinos, Agia Triada, built in 1610.

In Steni, don’t miss the church of Agios Antonios, as it is decorated by a wonderful wood carved iconostasis of the 17th century, as well as by an impressive epitaph and some old icons.

In Ksinara is situated the Catholic church of Panagia of the Rosario, which happens to be the seat of the Archbishop of Tinos.

In Kampos, some more wonderful icons and

a wooden iconostasis of 1775 await you at the church of Agia Aikaterini.

In Ysternia, you will see the Katapoliani Holy Convent of 1786, the church of Agia Paraskevi with the fantastic iconostasis, and one of the oldest churches on the island, Agios Athanasios.

On mount Tsiknias, there is the church of Faneromeni, providing services for both the Catholic and the Orthodox believers.

In the area of Kalloni, there is the Catholic church of Panagia Vryssiotissa, with the icon of Panagia (Virgin Mary) that had been found there in the 17th century.

LiFO choice

TINOS

Sivillaki

01

Sivillaki

afentouli & 1 taxiarhon street, tinos, tel: +30 697 436 5110

A bar where ethnic music meets jazz, beautiful cocktails made with fresh fruits unite with homemade

syrups and juices. Locals say this is the best place in town, with reasonable prices, fair amounts of alcohol, impressive cocktails, groovy, funk, blues, soul, and ethnic music and events with known DJs.

/

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/

Useful tips

There are a few things you need to know before you embark on your dream island holiday.

1. Items that will prove useful on your trip: Apart from sunblock, sunglasses, walking shoes and a broad-rimmed sun hat, you should also bring plenty of mosquito repellents (creams, lotions, etc.), a universal plug adapter and one or two good reads for the beach or your longer or shorter boat trips to and from the islands.

2. Ladies, I know your swimsuits are beautiful, but make sure you are wearing appropriate clothing when visiting a church or monastery. Trousers or skirt to cover your thighs and a shirt will do the trick. Men should also wear a T-shirt and long trousers. Excluding religious sites, you are urged to be sartorially adventurous.

3. Nudism is not illegal in Greece but there is a law against “breaching public morality”.

The law is rather vague but essentially means you cannot be naked in public. However, it is widely tolerated, provided you abide to the basic rule of choosing a secluded beach (i.e. with no families around). In a handful of islands you may find sign posts on the beach, designating it as nudism-friendly. Generally, the more isolated the beach, the more likely it is to be populated by nudists. A good source of information is the tourists who have been on the island longer than you.

4. Free camping is forbidden. You are only allowed to camp in official camping sites which exist in all the above islands. Having said this, you could perhaps camp out on a remote beach, but remember that you run 160/USEFUL TIPS

the risk of being harassed by the police or a local home/taverna owner. The best bet for a safe camp is to choose a destination off the mainstream tourist’s radar, like Anafi, Ikaria and the small Cyclades. The unwritten rule for campers is to leave the site exactly as you found it –or better. Take a last look around before you leave, making sure you have not forgotten any garbage, and discard any items in the appropriate bins.

5. Tourists often look puzzled by signs or announcements made by boat owners that a trip to a certain beach is cancelled because of “bad weather”, when in fact there’s not a single cloud in the sky and the sunlight is glaring. Boat owners are referring to the winds. In most islands during the summer – and especially in Cyclades – northern winds (known as meltemia) can be too strong for small boats to navigate around rocky peninsulas, especially when they’re packed with tourists. Boat owners choose to play it safe so that you don’t throw up in their caique.

Choose a beach at a walking distance for the day and try again tomorrow. To avoid disappointment, do not leave the best (and furthest) beach for last. If the sea is calm on your first day on the island, go to the one which is only approached by boat. You never know when the winds will pick up.

Was it helpful? Feel free to send your feedback, comments, curses and anything else to the editor: Daphne Papadopoulou at daphnepa@gmail.com.

your free copy

/GREEK

ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

/