Modern Barber - Issue 9

Modern Barber ISSUE 9 • Jan-March 2016 • £5

GO ON GREEN ENVIRO-FRIENDLY BUSINESS CHOICES PAGE 22

Lionheart GIVING CLIENTS (AND EACH OTHER) COURAGE WHERE IT’S NEEDED PAGE 30

TALKIN’ ‘BOUT YOUR

Generation

BARBERING’S IN THE BLOOD PAGE 32

MB9_OFC - Covers.indd 1

16/12/2015 10:21

MB9_IFC_Ad - Andis.indd 2

16/12/2015 10:55

H E L LO & CO N T E N TS

Let’s do this…

Newsroom 6 Snippets and stories from in, around and on the industry.

International 14 Maloney’s Barber Shop: laid back NZ style.

Features

Ready or not, here it comes. Another year! Growth, excitement and challenge are all good but what pays the bills is healthy solid business. ‘Cool’ won’t cut it long term so 2016 will be the year that the smart barbers win the race. You know the ones, the shops that build their brands and their service, that focus on value not price. Look to each other for inspiration, it’s where we find ours. This issue takes MB into its third year as your most widely read industry magazine and it’s the biggest issue yet. We’ve brought you more barber stories, more technical content, more hair inspiration and more tips but more isn’t always enough so email rachel@modernbarber.co.uk with your comments.

18 Sexist licensing laws: Darren Hayward drowns his sorrows.

20 A brush with history: Kent Brushes brings the beard brush up-to-date.

22 Go on green: easy eco choices.

24 Shop Insider: The Alternative Barbering Co, Harpenden.

30 Listening ears, Lionhearts: make a difference on mental health.

32 Talkin’ ‘bout your generation: family matters for barbers.

Shopping 28 Storefront: Stuff you need and gear you want.

Portfolio

Rachel Gould – Editor

34 20 pages of great looking man hair.

Roll of Honour

Social

Your industry title wouldn’t happen without the advertising support of the brands and companies below – they know just how valuable you are!

Andis • BarberUK • BarberConnect • BarberUK • Barbers Box • British Barbers’ Association Cronus Barber Shop Furniture • Denman Professional • Fine Fettle Grooming • Fudge Hair High Energy Hair Products • iQueue Barbers • Kent Brushes • Maletti • Lock Stock and Barrel • Moda • National Hairdressers’ Federation • Neo Cape • REM-MEN • Retail Secure Salon Equipment Centre • Scaramouche and Fandango • Takara Belmont The Bluebeards Revenge • Uppercut Deluxe

Editor and Publisher: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Design and Production: Matt Dettmar freelancemagazinedesign.co.uk Advertising: Kelly Hindley kelly@modernbarber.co.uk Contributors: Robert Rix, Simon Shaw, Frank Rimer, Chris Foster & Steven Ward Find us online: modernbarber.co.uk twitter @modernbarbermag Call on: 01295 533755 For all online and print advertising enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK Registration number: 06084337 VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP Subscriptions can be securely purchased through modernbarber.co.uk UK subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid.

Intl subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £40 post paid

Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. www.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any mateiral submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.

Cover photography by Marc Hayden of Marc Hayden Photography marchayden.co.uk/@_marchayden Thank you to our two cover stars: Tilly Maddison @tillymaddison & Jac Ludlow @jacludlow/ @bojangles/FB Bo Jangles British Barber Club

54 The 10 Minute Chat: Tony Roberts going the distance.

56 Bottoms up: cheers to barbershop beer and more.

60 The Shaw Thing: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

62 Price of fame: Kieron Webb on ‘doing’ celebs.

64 The Brazilian Barbers: Sindi Devitte takes on South America.

66 Barber King: Sid Sottung on the Russian (barber) revolution.

Top Tips 68 On watch: timepiece tips.

70 How to style the ‘Fighter Pilot’ Moustache: by Frank Rimer.

72 Stay sharp: Robert Rix lays down the law on setting stones.

74 Step-by-step: Chris Foster and the flat top.

76 Tackling growth patterns: dealing with unruly growth.

78 How to… be WIFI compliant, grow a healthy business, and make a cold busting smoothie.

82 Steve’s shoe wardrobe: Inky Steve and his shoe obsession.

MODERN BARBER

MB9_003_Contents.indd 3

16/12/2015 18:28

F E AT U R E

Cover Shoot:

To celebrate MB’s 2nd birthday, Issue 9 has TWO cover versions.

ber Modern Bar arch 2016 • £5

ISSUE 9 • Jan-M

GREEN GO ON FRIENDLY ENVIROICES BUSINESS CHO PAGE 22

Lionheart NTS GIVING CLIE OTHER) (AND EACH ERE COURAGE WH IT’S NEEDED

Behind the scenes

PAGE 30

TALKIN’ ‘BOUT YOUR

Generation

OD ’S IN THE BLO PAGE 32

BARBERING

Modern Bar ber 16/12/2015

ndd MB9_OFC - Covers.i

10:21

1

ISSUE 9 • Jan-M

arch 2016 • £5

GO ON GREE

ENVIRO-FRIE NDL BUSINESS CHO Y ICES

N

PAGE 22

Lionheart

GIVING CLIE NTS (AND EACH OTH COURAGE WH ER) ERE IT’S NEEDED

PAGE 30

TALKIN’ ‘BOUT YOUR

Generation BARBERING

’S IN THE BLO

OD

PAGE 32 MB9_OFC - Covers.i

ndd 2

B

16/12/2015

10:21

ack in November our first studio cover shoot took place in East London.

MB decided to split the print run and send out not one but TWO versions of the cover – one male barber and one female barber.

Our photographer Marc Hayden of Marc Hayden Photography (marchayden.co.uk) has had his work featured on and in the magazine regularly over the years and so we asked him to do the honours.

Thank you to our female barber

ing. o… s Groom came to tt, Three Chair Miles. s d n e ri a F le u w. Josh yan Bart L to R: R ison. Jac Ludlo d d a Tilly M

Tilly Maddison @tillymaddison who has just completed her barbering vardering training with Toni & Guy and male barber and shop owner Jac Ludlow

Behind the scenes images : Insta @gabe.keep

@jacludlow/@bojangles/FB Bo Jangles British Barber Club in Pontypool.

So, which cover did you get? #MBcoverguy #MBcovergirl

4

MB9_004_Cover Shoot.indd 4

16/12/2015 18:27

COMPETITION

Win! Creativity, passion and hard work are the building blocks of a great brand and thankfully Uppercut founders Luke Newman and Steve Purcell have got ‘em all. The Australian childhood friends with a love for barbering, surf and skate have won the high regard of a healthy slice of the British barber market. The brand launched with Uppercut Deluxe Pomade in 2009 after a year of uncompromising R&D with their long suffering chemists because both Luke and Steve were committed to creating a high quality timeless grooming product that their clients could use for a lifetime. The look of the brand is inspired by traditional 1950’s barbershops and the name? That credit goes to Willy ‘Uppercut’ O’Shea, Steve’s grandfather. Willy O’Shea was a member of a boxing troupe that toured rural Australia during the Great Depression. His motto was ‘a hard beginning, maketh a good end’ which sounded fitting! So his nickname, ‘Uppercut’ and his image have been immortalised on every tin and product.

an Uppercut Deluxe Gift Crate (worth £100) To win an Uppercut Deluxe Gift Crate (pictured) filled with Uppercut Deluxe products worth £100 then just email up to RRP £100, your answer to the below question to hmoore@uppercutdeluxe.com by 5pm on 31st March 2016. Please include your full name, shop name and postal address. Correct answers will be entered into the prize draw.

The winner will be chosen at random.

Which was the first product launched by Uppercut Deluxe?

Monster Hold • Deluxe Pomade • Featherweight For more information please visit www.uppercutdeluxe.com T&C’s: Open to UK barbers only. Prize cannot be exchanged.

Judges decision is final. Subject to availability.

5

MB9_005_Competition - Uppercut Deluxe.indd 5

16/12/2015 10:34

NEWS

Newsroom

Stories on, in and about the industry…

Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

NHF Competitions:

Jiggi with it!

Britain’s Best and Photographic Stylist of the Year The National Hairdressers’ Federation (@NHFederation/nhf.info) annual competition ‘Britain’s Best’ took place at the National Heritage Motor Museum last November. The live competition also hosted the finals of the NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year 2015. The men’s categories attracted more entries than ever before and the quality of work presented demonstrated sharp technique.

The live competition judges included legendary barbers Robert Rix of The Master Barbers in Southport and MK. Here are the winners.

Winner Joe Cartmel Jiggi backstage at the Mobo’s

Britain’s Best Competition Male Fashion Look On Trend (students and trainees) Marcus Feeley, Spirit Hair Team, Ystrad Mynach Male Fashion Look On Trend (open to all) Joe Cartmel, Cartmel Brothers, Preston Short Back and Sides with Beard Trim (students and trainees) Marcus Feeley – Spirit Hair Team, Ystrad Mynach Short Back and Sides with Beard Trim (open to all) Kade Burgess, Image Barbers, Bedford

6

MB9_006-012_News.indd 6

Photographic Stylist of the Year Men’s Fashion Look (students and trainees) Eirann Byrne, AKA Hairdressing, Bristol Men’s Fashion Look (open to all) Allan McKechnie, Rutherfords, Oban, Argyll Men’s Fashion Collection (open to all) Michael Damiano, Image Barbers, Bedford Afro-Caribbean Fashion Look (open to all) Kade Kut, Image Barber, Bedford Why not enter for 2016?

Barbering can take you to some pretty cool places. Jiggi here has a salon right inside Bolton Wanderers Football Club and for the last two years he was offered the backstage pop-up at the MOBO’s. He’s keeping confidential on the names of the stars he took care of but he can say “I’ve built a good relationship up there and backstage work has an amazing energy. It’s a good experience and you meet new people like make-up artists and other stylists. I worked up to and through the show, it was manic. I took a young trainee barber from Bolton College with me. It’s always good to give young up and coming barbers a chance to see what happens behind the scenes.”

Follow @jiggisalons/ jiggi.co.uk

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 18:32

Say congratulations to Michael Damiano of Image Barber (@imagebarber) who bagged the trophy for Afro Barber of the Year at the Black Beauty/Sensationnel Hair Awards 2015!

L to R: BBC Broadcaster Brenda Emmanus, Michael Damiano and MK

Look of the Irish Back in November Garry and Mari Jackson of Garry’s Barbershop in Holywood Belfast (FB Garrys Barber Shop) played host to a busy workshop with Alan Beak, Neal Toner and Micky Graham. After a morning of demo’s, the 15 attendees worked on their own models and produced Garry, Micky, Alan and Nea l with attendees some amazing styles. Garry said "I thought the whole day was fabulous, the shop was buzzing with excitement and creativity. To bring together so much talent was great and people made such a big effort to get here… like the guys from Brooklyn Barbers who travelled six hours on a bus from Cork! Also to bring local Northern Irish barbers on board was brilliant; guys I've never met, even though they're only a few miles down the road." There are more GBBB workshop dates planned in February with Alan Beak in Limerick and Dublin.

Photograph © Mark Shirley

Michael Damiano wins Afro Barber of the Year

AND…

Envy this…

International barbering educator and businessman Sheriff Mehmet (@envybarbers) opens his new salon and academy at the heart of Covent Garden in early January. Envy by Sheriff Mehmet will offer premium hair and shave services.

He and his highly trained team will also be sharing their skills with exclusive barber courses with a low tutor to student ratio.

Sheriff Mehmet

Ireland now has its very own barber association in the Irish Barber Alliance (irishbarberalliance.co m) founded by Pat Barry and Gary Devane.

The Alliance is a free membership associatio n to promote and support Irish barbering.

BBA launches product range The British Barbers’ Association (@britishbarbers) will launch an expertly formulated high-performance range of male grooming products in the spring. The launch will start with twelve essentials for hair and face including Thickening Shampoo and Shave Oil. BBA Director Mike Taylor said, “Introducing a product range is part of our long-term vision to ensure that the BBA is self-sufficient and can keep its membership free. It will give us a vital income that allows us to look at developing new and innovative training programmes and events, which really grow the barbering industry by offering the highest standards of training and professionalism possible”. The initiative is guided by BBA Business Development Director Trevor Studd who has poured his previous barbering and brand development experience into the project.

7

MB9_006-012_News.indd 7

16/12/2015 10:35

NEWS

Prins & Booth opens Christian Booth of Root92 and well known Dutch barber Dieuwertje Prins (@dieuwertjeprins) will open Prins & Booth in Rochdale Road, Oldham in mid Feb. The four chair male grooming shop will offer diverse style, hot towel shaves and high end services. There’s even an international academy that already has bookings from the UK and Europe.

Christian Booth and Dieuwertje Prins

It’s a Date Mark your diary 28th/29th February Salon London Excel (salonexhibitions.co.uk) including the HJ Men education stage and the NHF business stage.

28th/29th February Pro Hair Manchester (prohairlive.co.uk) Register FREE for tickets. Lots of barber demo’s from the likes of Kevin Luchman, Schorem Barbier, Ryan Cullen, Ruger and more.

22nd/23rd May BarberUK, NEC Birmingham (barberukshow.co.uk) Register FREE for tickets. This show hosts the British |Barbers’ Association competitions including the high energy ‘BOXING RING’ for Britain’s Best Shave and presentations from the BBA and Andis education team.

Cruise the stands or drop in to one of the barbering seminars (sponsored by your very own Modern Barber!).

26th/27th June BarberConnect, Celtic Manor, Newport (barberconnect.co.uk).

This show is now TWO days of action packed barbering business and includes a busy seminar schedule.

Presentations currently confirmed from Michael Damiano, Simon Shaw, Carl Blake and 5ive. There will be around 100 barbering brands exhibiting and 5000 barbers are expected. The Barber Awards Ceremony will take place on the Sunday night. The Awards categories launch in January with two categories sponsored by… you guessed it… your very own Modern Barber.

8

MB9_006-012_News.indd 8

Winner Joe Reynolds

Young barber wins national title Lifetime Learner Achievement Awards: Joe Reynolds, 20 years old from VIP Barbers in Worcester won the National Learner Achievement Award from Bristol-based apprenticeship training provider, Lifetime Training at a London Award ceremony last November. Joe said: “I’m in shock, I’ve never won an award before so this is just amazing! It means so much to me and I’ve worked really hard to achieve my very best in something I absolutely love doing.”

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:35

MB9_009_Ad - Takara Belmont.indd 9

16/12/2015 10:36

NEWS

One fine day The British Barbers’ Association (@britishbarbers/britishbarbers.com) launched its first Networking Event last October. Approximately 80 barbers from as far away as Belfast attended to listen to the speakers and debate industry issues. The setting couldn’t have been more perfect – the historic Barber Surgeons Hall in London.

Mike Taylor of the BBA

The day included talks from Mike Taylor of the BBA and Gary Machin representing the Barber Council plus Jonathan Sim from Movember with info and updates on the Foundation’s amazing charity fundraising campaigns. Chris Foster shared his story on how his business frustrations were turned into solutions. Lee Kynaston (@grooming_guru) gave a talk on ‘Social Media, how to raise your profile and increase your business?’ Lee is an award winning blogger and widely published journalist with a strong social media presence. His presentation outlined the value of projecting a ‘personal brand’ that engages the audience. (See panel for tips).

Richard Surridge, Head of E-Commerce at Salon Services spoke on ‘Creating retail environments for customers and retail culture for staff’. Richard listed service, passion, consistency and staff confidence as the key components to good retail. He recommends choosing stock lines on affordability, quality AND the emotional connection you can build between customer and product (the WHY, they should buy). Add in brands that your staff believe in and actually enjoy using and you’ve got a great starting point.

The day finished with round table discussions on a huge variety of nominated subjects and everyone left buzzing with ideas.

Attendees

Look out for more BBA Networking Events in 2016, visit britishbarbers.com

Lee Kynaston’s Social Media Tips • You don’t have to be on every platform, just the ones that reflect you as a professional and individual (e.g. Instagram for sharing imagery).

• Offer ‘take away’, ie info that people can action.

• Be authentic, no-one likes fakery.

• Go with quality, not quantity.

• Use ‘joined up thinking’ – providing touch points on each platform you use.

• Be consistent to your brand values.

• Avoid politics and religion and when the haters gonna’ hate…

DON’T ENGAGE! Thanks @grooming_guru.

10

MB9_006-012_News.indd 10

L to R: Gary Machin, Christ Foster, Richard Surridge, Lee Kynaston & Mike Taylor

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:35

MB9_011_Ad - BBA.indd 11

16/12/2015 10:37

NEWS

British Master Barbers What better way to spend a Sunday than with a civilised bevvy and a big dose of barbering inspiration?

Live

British Master Barber Live plans to be an annual event, so don’t worry if you missed out last year. Held at the Arora Hotel, Gatwick, there was a mix of demos, competition work, exhibitors and lots of opportunities to mix and mingle.

Approximately 200 hundred barbers braved the ‘pea-souper’ fog and you can check out the highlights here.

On Stage

Rhys Green transforming Haydn Woodrow for The Lions

Darryn Pitman (@thedarrynpitman) Guerilla Barbering (FB Guerrilla Barbering) Baldy and Kieron Price (@baldysbarbers/@kieronthebarber Kevin Vorley (@kbarbersemp) Chris Moon and the Hairbond Artistic Team (@kutzbarbers/@hairbond)

Demos Lions Barber Collective Mobile Barbering Academy

Jamie Roberts and the Hairbond Artistic Team

Exhibitors App Monkeys, Custom Belmont, Hairbond, Matakki, Men’s Hair Federation, NeoCape, Scaramouche & Fandango, Spencers Scissors, Varsity Beard

Competition The British Master Barber of the Year finals – on-stage cutting comp. Winner: Kieron Price.

Kieron Price competing for the title

12

MB9_006-012_News.indd 12

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:35

MB9_013_Ad - Fudge.indd 13

16/12/2015 10:37

F E AT U R E

There’s a whole world of barbering out there, so every issue we bring a little international insight. Say hello to...

Maloney’s Barber Shop

Auckland

Factoids Owners Opened Shop

Julian and Susannah Maloney In 2003 and expanded upwards in 2014 8 chairs over two levels plus top floor space for staff and events. Total 1600 sq ft Staff 10 inc. barbers and front-of-house Clients A mix of office workers, students, creatives, kids and golden oldies. About 600 of ‘em per week Appts Sure, for wet shaves only. Cuts and beard trims walk-in’s only Price $29-$35 for a cut (£15-£18); $50 for a wet shave (£25) Random Barber Anthony gave All Black legend and Captain, Richie McCaw a wet shave in the shop for a Movember promo vid a few years back Must See FB Maloney’s Barber Shop/Insta @maloneysbarber/ maloneys.co.nz

14

15

MB9_014-017_ Maloney's.indd 15

16/12/2015 10:37

It’s about great talkers, great thinkers, people who enjoy working with their hands.

JULIAN MALONEY #BARBERWISDOM

I

f you are ever near the harbour in Auckland, make a bee line for Ponsonby and drop by 1-192 Victoria Street West to pay your barber respects to the Maloney’s team. When owners Julian and Susannah Maloney opened in 2003 the area wasn’t much to write home about but 13 years later it’s edge-to-edge breweries, eateries, markets, offices and apartments. Teamed with business vision and barber skills, that translates into a shop that’s grown from two to eight chairs and a ten strong team.

Owner Julian began barbering in ’87 and in ’92 he skipped on over to the UK to hone his skills with a second generation Sicilian barber in Oxford.

Maloney’s offers classic barber cuts, restyles, longer cuts and wet shaves, plus ever more beard trims and shaping.

Julian has built a team of like-minded

Julian Maloney All images courtesy of Maloney’s Barber Shop Auckland 16

MB9_014-017_ Maloney's.indd 16

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:37

barbers that genuinely love their trade while keeping their loyal clients centre stage. He says “All the barbers at Maloney’s use Instagram, Facebook and other social media to follow barber shops around the world as well as showing off their haircuts, techniques and unique Kiwi style of barbering.

They’re outwards looking and like to keep current.”

The three floor shop is eclectic without being themed and the team’s broad interests (from horse breeding to jujitsu and drumming) keep the banter varied and interesting. Julian says “It’s part of why I love barbering. It’s about great talkers, great thinkers, people who enjoy working with their hands. You don’t see a lot of paperwork in barber shops or guys sitting in front of computer screens.” The team includes male and female barbers from the UK as well as locals with Samoan, Maori and Pakeha (NZ European) heritage and Maloney’s is keen on pursuing exchanges with overseas barber shops too.

The shop has high standards with a goal to raise the bar for barbering in NZ. Employees participate in training for the National Certificate and Julian has been elected to the board of the NZ Hairdressing Industry Training Organisation. “The barbering industry has never been so vibrant or popular and is attracting really creative people that we need to support and grow,” says Julian. • 17

MB9_014-017_ Maloney's.indd 17

16/12/2015 10:37

F E AT U R E

Image by Jarek Duk Photography.

Jarekduk.com/insta @jarekduk

Are men the victims of SEXIST licensing laws?

The Blind Barber Quality Cut has been targeted by the council and licensing officer in Poole, Dorset. After being advised on the age of drinking and being checked over by a police officer we continued to give FREE drink away to the guys. A week later the council visited and told us to stop! When I told the official that ladies salons, wedding shops and dress shops are giving it away, it was dismissed and ignored.

Is it due to the fact that we are bearded, tattooed, loud, laughing and playing rock n’ roll? Is it because we are open till 8pm and a collective of men? I believe it is for all of these reasons that we have been a target of this VERY grey area of the law.

Why is it OK for women reading their OK magazine with foil in their hair to have a glass of wine or a bridesmaid and 18

MB9_018_Sexist Licensing Laws.indd 18

MB heard from Darren Hayward…

He’s got something to say on why the nanny state has a varied opinion on complimentary alcohol.

So we let him – in his very own words.

bride to have champagne whilst trying on dresses but not for a group of men!

Maybe it’s the same reason you can have a women-only gym but not a men only barbershop! It’s about time us men are given a break to have a little space for ourselves, we are grown-ups and can have one drink with a shave or haircut and not be a knob about it! The metro sexual male can go to his UNISEX salon and read Town & Country but I wanted to create a haven for the hard working guys of Poole that wanted a pure male environment. Part of that experience was giving these fine gents a little tipple but the local police and council have FAR too much time on their hands when it comes to our barbershop, but not enough time to check up on the ladies salons in our area.

This issue isn’t about ‘drinking’ or ‘free gimmicks’. We are very busy, with and without the beer. We are barbers first and foremost with the haircut and shave at the heart of the business. The issue is, if there is a law that stops a men’s only barbershop from giving away alcohol and it’s being enforced; then why is it OK for other establishments to be doing it. What’s good for one, isn’t it seems, good for all!

Rant over! •

by Darren Hayward of The Blind Barber Quality Cut in Poole. @beardenvybarber insta @theblindbarberqualitycut FB The Blind Barber Quality Cut Comment @modernbarbermag #beersfortheboys

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 18:34

MB9_019_Ad - Kent Brushes.indd 19

16/12/2015 10:38

KENT BRUSHES

A Brush with History Sometimes you’ve got to look back to look forward, like Ben Cosby of Kent Brushes – he’s revived a 19th century beard brush for today’s beardy buyers.

Creative connection

A great product deserves great packaging and when Ben Cosby of Kent Brushes wanted just the right designer for his new Beard Brush packaging, he searched the web and found him… in Iceland. André Visage is actually a South African and trained in Architecture and Multimedia Design before settling in Reykjavik. He’s Brand Manager and Co-Owner of a ‘bean-to-bar’ chocolate company (omnomchocolate.com) and it’s his packaging that caught Ben’s eye. André says “I was contacted by Ben Cosby in 2014. The brief was very open and the project developed over time… from the shape, size and functionality of the brush to favourable illustrations and graphic identity. I found it to be a fun and unusual project, so I was naturally on board. I am a self-taught illustrator, deeply influenced by nature and my surrounding environment. I love line work and tend to work in 2D with grids, proportion and symmetry.”

The Kent Beard Brush is available for £20 inc VAT. For trade enquiries please contact beard@kentbrushes.co.uk or call 01442 232623

W

hen you’ve traded for over 230 years like Kent Brushes (@kentbrushes/ kentbrushes.com) staying current is never a problem.

There’s nearly a quarter millennium of back story to mine for inspiration.

Kent Creative Director Ben is passionate about provenance and artisan design and Kent is well known for handmade

20

MB9_020-021_Kent Brushes.indd 20

brushes, so when he and his customers started using the current brush range to groom their beards, Ben took to the archives. Ben explains “I found an old catalogue from the mid 1800’s and it had these dainty beard brushes. I had one remade and I found it hard to hold.

I ended up brushing half my beard with my fist. I wanted something ergonomic and manly that fit in the hand.” The ‘flintlock’ handle shape was the best

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:38

Hairy heritage Longevity and quality typically march together so, no surprise that Kent Brushes has held the Royal Warrant through nine continuous reigns. Their handmade brushes are still being made at their ‘new’ factory (just over 30 years old) in Hertfordshire.

You might have spotted their ‘live’ demos at Salon International last October.

Here’s some Kent historical facts: • Kent Brushes made hundreds of thousands of brushes for the War Office during WWI. A soldier’s kit included brushes for hair, teeth, shaving, clothes, shoe blacking, shoe polishing and buttons.

• Special toothbrushes were made for the Indian troops with wooden handles filled with vegetable fibre as the use of either bullock bone or pig bristle was prohibited by their religions.

• In WWII the Kent factory was hit seventeen times by German air raids. However the workers showed amazing courage and endurance amidst the falling bombs and carried on work using tarpaulins to cover the gaping holes in the roof.

• In a top secret operation during the Second World War, Kent made shaving brushes in which maps and compasses could be concealed for forwarding to overseas British prisoners of war, to enable them to find their way home in the event of escape. The work was carried out in a special locked and windowless room at the Kent factory with access allowed only to a chosen few.

answer for a great grip. Ben then turned to the bristles. Natural boar bristle was the obvious choice but the ‘cut’ was also important. “I settled on a cut that was closer to the root so that each bristle is stiffer. Stiff enough to penetrate and

groom the beard but soft enough on the skin. Also typically a brush is flat, like a nailbrush. I tested the brush over time and realised that actually a ‘wedge’ shape was much more effective and that’s how we’ve created this unique profile,” adds Ben. The two years in research and development to bring the Beard Brush to market was mainly due to Ben’s perfectionist approach to every detail. Even the packaging got

the Ben treatment, after he tracked down a designer based in Iceland through a packaging blog. The raw card presentation box, distinctive line drawings and even the cotton bag is all carefully thought through. “The bag was important. Brushes tend to gather fluff and beard brushes tend to hold beard oil in the bristles. I wanted every buyer to have a great looking way to store theirs,” concludes Ben. • 21

MB9_020-021_Kent Brushes.indd 21

16/12/2015 10:39

F E AT U R E

GO ON

Green

Natural resources, climate change, ethical manufacturing, global waste management… All BIG subjects that we should take personally…

T

he Paris Climate Summit hit the headlines late last year, mostly because it was the largest gathering of global leadership ever seen… on any subject. You might not be the Head of State for a nation but we’ve all got a personal choice as consumers and business people. Here MB takes a look at some of the easy stuff you CAN do.

The Bluebeards Revenge

Read the small print Some brands lead with their eco credentials but many don’t, so study the small print and ask the questions when it comes to environmental packaging, social responsibility, ethical and green manufacturing policies and animal testing. There are lots of great choices out there that won’t turn you into a hemp sock wearing hippie. Here’s some: Paul Mitchell (paul-mitchell.co.uk) – they go the whole nine yards. The brand supports Reforest’Action (reforestaction.com), an environmental organisation that plants trees worldwide.

Their Tea Tree brand is planting Maya nut trees in South America that will not only reforest but provide sustainable revenue for the indigenous communities in the area. They plan to plant half a million by the end of 2016. The company has a cruelty-free production policy and supports the Water Keeper Alliance.

Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree brand

22

MB9_022-023_Go on Green.indd 22

The Bluebeards Revenge (bluebeards-revenge.co.uk) – their consumables are UK made, vegetarian, vegan, cruelty-free and their packaging is entirely recyclable.

They’re big on charity too!

GO24.7 (go247men.co.uk) – this company is part of the PETA Caring Consumer Program and all of their products are cruelty-free.

Think differently Traditional isn’t the only choice and new processes are proving to be greener and more efficient. Take towel use…

Easydry (easydry.com) – offers disposable eco towels and were first in the market. The towels are super-absorbent, hygienic, recyclable and biodegradable (within 12 weeks).

Manufacturing is sustainable and chemical free. Their eco credentials are faultless and the awards list is long.

You can skip the effort, cost and consumption of laundering your towels.

Scrummi (scrummi.com) – also offers single use towels in black and white with ethical and eco manufacturing.

The website has a nifty cost savings calculator too so you can check the benefits on your pocket.

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:39

Scrummi

Get wasted Waste management can stink! A local council recently claimed that one barbershops’ hair cuttings was ‘Hazardous Waste’! The Council should have checked the .GOV.uk website for guidelines on business and commercial waste. Here’s a few pointers…

WEE Directive – nothing to do with the ‘Gents’… WEE stands for Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment. Every year two million tonnes of small electricals are thrown away.

Manufacturers and stores are obliged to offer a ‘take back’ service or an alternative for recycling old or broken equipment but you could take it to your local recycling facility too.

Hair cuttings – it’s biodegradable (duh!) but if the council won’t play ball here are some other ideas.

• Scatter round plants and pots to stop slugs (thanks FB Liam Hamilton Srsb).

• Just put it in the compost, add to your normal compost and toss in a few worms, takes about four weeks to break down.

• Use it to soak up oil spills when you’re changing your motorcycle oil (thanks FB Jim Delios) or donate it for ‘hair booms’ that are made to soak up large scale environmental disasters, matteroftrust.org (thanks FB Francesca Maria Webb). •

MB9_022-023_Go on Green.indd 23

16/12/2015 10:39

F E AT U R E

Shop Insider Barbershops are hang outs, hubs and of course the best hair destinations… so take a peek inside this one.

Barbershop

Details Shop Owners Social media

The Alternative Barbering Co, 8 Station Road, Harpenden AL5 4SE Sam Campagna and Danny Martino alternativebarberingco.co.uk/@altbarberingco/ FB Alternative Barber Co Opened November 2014 (Harpenden is the 2nd shop after St Albans in 2010).

Size 1900 sq feet for barbershop, waiting area and tattoo studio.

Chairs Five chairs.

Team Five barbers inc. key team member and Manager Colin Cooper.

Wealthy commuter town on street near train station.

Location Timeframe Build-out took 11 DAYS! (Ran late by 1 day over plan).

Sam has good tradespeople on speed dial.

Budget £18k and everything was pre-planned, pre-prepared.

Lots of vintage finds. Chairs are refurbished.

Brief A 1930’s Art Deco feel with a blend of later iconic design features.

The tile, the bespoke cabinetry, the vintage refurbished chairs and the Anglepoise lights as pendants plus jewel colours and Danish designer furniture nailed the brief.

What’s unique The iPad in reception shows the shops playlist on Spotify. The playlist is live on the shops website and customers follow it too.

Added extras Nope but customers get a great service and haircut plus a fantastic environment for the all in price of £20.

Photography by Tom Fallon 24

MB9_024-025_Shop Insider.indd 24

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:39

25

MB9_024-025_Shop Insider.indd 25

16/12/2015 10:39

MB9_026_Ad - Barber Connect.indd 26

16/12/2015 10:40

COMPETITION

Win! a selection of Oster Professional Products (worth over £220)

Oster… tomorrow’s tools for today’s professional Since 1924, Oster has been producing high quality, value-for-money hairdressing clippers and trimmers manufactured in the United States. The Oster range includes models which cater for all professional needs from the trainee to the most discerning stylist who demands the very best. A worldwide reputation for clippers of exceptional quality has been founded on the success of the Oster motors and the precision-ground Oster blades. The cryogen-x blades (97-60 blades only) are manufactured with a revolutionary tempering process technology, which means that they not only start out sharp but they stay sharper for longer.

Oster has teamed up with Modern Barber to give you the chance to win a selection of Oster Professional Products worth over £220! This includes the famous Oster 97-60 Heavy Duty Clipper which is the ultimate rotary motor barbering tool for powerful clippercutting all day long. An Oster 3500 Pro Hairdryer and Igloo Blade Storage Case are also included with this fantastic prize.

Just email your answer to marketing@denmanbrush.com by 5pm on 31st March 2016 including your full name, shop name and postal address. Correct answers will be entered into the prize draw.

The winner will be chosen at random.

Which year was the Oster company founded?

2004 • 1984 • 1924 For more information on Oster, please visit www.denmanpro.com or call 0800 262509.

T&C’s: Open to UK barbers only. Prize cannot be exchanged.

Judges decision is final. Subject to availability.

MB9_027_Competition - Oster.indd 5

16/12/2015 10:40

SHOPPING

Store FRONT 6

1

4

3

2 5

1. Eddy Cannon Easy Blend Comb Designed by Cornish barber Eddy, this comb is created to help hairdressers and barbers blend grades with ease. Price £12.99. eddycannoneasyblend.com 2. Pietranera ‘Europa’ Barber Chair Originally made in 1984 and still popular after 30 years. The chair can be upholstered in one or two tones in a selection of colours and finishes. There is a choice of bases.

Price from £1575 ex VAT lsehair.com (sole UK agent) 3. AND MEN Style Guide Book Handsome style guide in high quality print with soft cover. 98 pages to inspire you and your clients with a variety of traditional and contemporary styles. Price £20.00. barberblades.co.uk 28

MB9_028-029_Storefront.indd 28

4. The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Classic Blend’ Beard Oil From untamed beast to a manly masterpiece with a unique blend of fresh and masculine-smelling oils and fragrances designed to smooth, moisturise and protect your beard.

Price £9.99/50ml bluebeards-revenge.co.uk 5. The Burleigh Moustache Mug Heritage pottery Burleigh takes on the Edwardian Classic with this ‘mo guard’ mug to protect every man’s whiskers from the daily tea drenching. RRP £25. burleigh.co.uk

6. Jack Black Wax Pomade Adds natural shine and flexible hold and even works on beard and moustache control. RRP £17.50 mankind.co.uk, stockists 0208 398 9744 7. MR.SE LOVESLICK Pomade Provides excellent hold for all hair types, with a medium shine.

Price £10.95 mrsehair.co.uk 8. Barber Pro Towel Warmer Warmer can hold 12 towels and comes with 8 free shave towels and a set of tongs.

Price £99 ex VAT. Mini Towel Warmer also available at £59 ex VAT. Visit salonequipmentcentre.co.uk or call 01455 553558.

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:41

10

12

7 8

13

9 11

9. Fudge Skyscraper Extra An extra firm, fine and dry mist hairspray for total control.

RRP £9.95/400g Visit fudgeprofessional.com or call 020 7845 6333 for your nearest distributor.

10. Wahl Guide Comb Set NEW 10 combs for guides 1-8, ½ and 1 ½.

Durable cutting guides with securefit metal tabs which ensures the comb has a strong hold to the blade.

Price £24.99 ex VAT Available in all good distributors 11. Andis ProFoil Lithium Titanium Foil Shaver NEW Lightweight, compact, cordless with up to 80 minutes of use per charge.

Hypoallergenic foils, easy controls and rotary motor. Price £59.99 groomers-online.com

12. Osmo Fibre Sculpt Lightweight definition and flexible hold with irresistible fragrance.

RRP £8.45 osmouk.com 13. Uppercut Deluxe Pomade Strong hold pomade that washes out with no fuss, perfect for slick-back style. RRP £16.00 Visit uppercutdeluxe.com, trade enquiries 023 8086 5906

14

15. Takara Belmont Legacy 95 Barber Chair NEW Reclining back rest, stylish new grille design, iconic steel footplate, retro-styling and the quality build you would expect from a Belmont.

Price from £2995 takarahairdressing.co.uk or call 0207 515 0333

14. Scaramouche & Fandango Extra Matt Styling Clay This conditioning clay made with pumice powder texturises and provides a flexible hold. RRP £12.00 scaramoucheandfandango.com Trade enquiries 0207 112 5168.

15

29

MB9_028-029_Storefront.indd 29

16/12/2015 10:41

SOCIAL

Listening ears, Lionhearts

T

Tom Chapman of Tom Chapman Hair Design founded The Lions Barber Collective – a network of barbers that lend a listening ear and a watchful eye to sufferers of poor mental health.

30

MB9_030_Lionhearts.indd 30

he Lions Barber Collective (FB The Lions Barber Collective) is a community of barbers that work together to support ‘Prevention for Suicide Awareness’ in collaboration with two charities PAPYRUS (papyrus-uk.org) and Pieta House (pieta.ie). Spokesperson and founder Tom Chapman @herestommy has already attracted interest from the national press and radio for his #BarberTalk program. A source for barbers to share info and support one another in helping clients and each other, face the struggle against poor mental health. Tom says “The response in the media and our amazing industry, shows how desperately this is needed and how relevant mental health is to everyone.

Let’s hope that through this awareness and support we can make the barber chair a safe place to share and open up.” Chief Exec of PAPYRUS Ged Flynn adds “Over 1,600 young people under the age of 35 take their own lives every year. Three quarters of them are young men. PAPYRUS is honoured to have the support of the Lions Barbers Collective in helping to build a society which speaks openly about suicide and has the resources to help young men who may have suicidal thoughts. Barbers are in a unique position to talk to their clients about their lives and what they might be going through, we are currently working with them to develop BarberTalk, a training program to empower barbers to recognise a young person at risk, listen, talk to them and advise where to go for help and support.”

What can you do to help?

(A.L.E.R.T.) • ASK them how they were feeling before it happened and how they are feeling now. Talking about suicide does not make it more likely to happen. Try to be patient if they are angry or refuse to talk. If they won’t talk to you, maybe they would talk to a friend or sibling. It may be that writing things down is an easier way for them to communicate with you.

• LISTEN: this is the most important thing you can do. Treat them with respect, and try not to be judgmental or critical. It is important to try to raise their self-esteem.

• EMPATHISE by showing that you really do care about them, no matter what, and are trying to understand things from their point of view. Words don’t always matter.

The touch of a hand or a hug can go a long way to show that you care.

• REASSURE them that desperate feelings are very common and can be overcome. Things can and do change, help can be found and there is hope for the future.

People do get better!

• TRY to give practical support, and help them to cope with any extra pressures. It may not be possible to deal with all the things that are troubling them but between you agree on what you will do if a suicidal crisis happens again.

Be clear there are always other options. •

S/O to current Lions Collective Members: Tom Chapman, Paul Mac, Phil Jarman, Pat Barry, Davie Walker, Harry Green, Brian Hackett, Ken J R Hermes, Ryan Cullen, Alan Beak, Rhys Green, Neal Toner, Warren Flynn, Will Ward, Tenneille English, Kieron Price, La Luka Chitty, Darryn Pitman, Jamie Stevens, Darren Jones, Dieuwertje Prins, Conor Taaffe, Sindi Devitte, Gary Devane, Micky Graham, Jac Ludlow, Greg Mcerlane, Neil Tomlinson, Darren Kenny (Baldy). Get involved FB The Lions Barber Collective.

MODERN BARBER

Published with the kind permission of papyrus-uk.org

16/12/2015 10:42

MB9_031_Ad - REM.indd 31

16/12/2015 10:42

F E AT U R E

Talkin’ ‘bout your

generation Does barbering run in the blood?

MB looks at the barbers that are keeping it in the family.

Luigi and Alfonso Caterino Photo by Alessio Fusco

F

rom the first generation to the fourth and beyond there are many barbering businesses that share family and history. In fact there are around three million UK family businesses, representing two thirds of every business in the UK. Together they employ nine and a half million people, contribute a quarter of the country’s GDP and pay £102 billion in tax and a slice of the family pie is devoted to you. * Statistics 2013.

Institute for Family Business ifb.org.uk

32

MB9_032-033_Generation Barber.indd 32

Rogers Barber Shops rogersbarbershops.co.uk

Benefits of being a family business by Gary Machin

Rogers Barber Shops is a fourth Trust – there is a natural level of trust generation business with six shops and between family Expectations – you are motivated to 29 employees. ‘Uncle Roger’ opened the maintain high expectations business in 1964 but started barbering Reputation – tradition and longevity in 1936. There are three generations help build reputation working alongside one another. CoGrowth – it’s easier to grow a business owner Gary Machin says “My dad is still with all the things mentioned above. working at 70, my 16 year old son has just started. I have two brothers in the business. Having that history allows us to transfer good skills from one generation to the next. We’ve earned the right to be traditional. You do feel though that you are just a custodian. You never want to be the generation that lets down the past or ruins the future,” says Gary.

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:42

The Italian Barber FB The Italian Job

Alfonso Caterino

Three generations in one shot

Francesco and Nono

B&W photos by Alessio Fusco

Luigi Caterino is a second generation barber, originally from Naples. He came to visit his brother who has an award winning restaurant in the Scottish borders, fell in love with a beautiful Polish woman and never went home. “My father, Alfonso has been a barber for 57 years. When I was young my school was far from my house but close to the barbershop so I did my homework there and helped out. From age nine, I was sweeping up, shampooing and learning to shave. There were three brothers in the family. My first brother was a barber but he died at only 20 years old from cancer. My second brother loved only cooking and when I left school I went to college and worked in the shop. When I came to Scotland I had no English.

So I started doing dishes in my brother’s restaurant and taught myself English. I eventually became manager but I needed to follow my passion. Italian barbers are very passionate.

First there is family and then there is business. For me, this is everything.” The Italian Job opened three years ago and it makes Alfonso proud to see his son’s shop and the awards and trophies that are quickly mounting up, including: Bluebeards Revenge Britain’s Best Shave of 2015 and Best Barber 2015 at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. Alfonso and Luigi are now sharing their skills with Francesco, Luigi’s eight year old son and only Francesco is allowed to lather ‘Nono’ for a shave.

“The shop is busy and I am now training up new staff. To share my passion with my son and have your own business is my true happiness. My son says that I am crazy because I am always smiling on my way to work. I love every day.”

First there is family and then there is business. For me, this is everything.

LUIGI CATERINO

Ned’s Barber Shop FB Neds Barber Shop

Paul Simmons has a brother and two sons in the industry. He and his sons, Ned and Tom, have two shops in Wolverhampton employing ten staff. Paul has been barbering since 1976, he has owned a number of barber businesses, most lately Paul Simmons Hair (renamed to Ned’s for the next generation!) and has previously been International Creative Director at Wahl. He has a broad view on men’s grooming, from the purist traditional barbering techniques to creative men’s hairdressing, a view he now shares with his sons. “My eldest son Ned began a career in computing before I took him along to Salon International. He went off to get a coffee and by the time I joined him in the queue he was chatting with two hairdressers. As it turned out, two legendary hairdressers… Anthony Mascolo and Robert Lobetta. By the end of the day he’d decided to change his career. Tom has now joined the business and it feels good to be working together for the future.”

L to R: Ned, Paul and Tom Simmons

33

MB9_032-033_Generation Barber.indd 33

16/12/2015 10:42

PORTFOLIO

MR HAIR BY: SAM PRIOR @MR_BARBERS/ MRBARBERS.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID DONNAN @DAVIDDIGENTICS/ CONRAD WEBB @WINDMILLART

34

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 34

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:42

35

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 35

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Gareth Clark Hair for Men HAIR BY: GARETH CLARK @GARETHDCLARK/GARETHCLARK.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: NEAL REED @WWWRETROPHOTOUK/RETROPHOTO.CO.UK

36

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 36

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

37

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 37

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Airborn by Attitude Men’s Hair HAIR BY: IAN HARROLD @ATTITUDEFORMEN/ATTITUDEMENSHAIR.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: IAN MACMICHAEL @IMACPHOTOGRAPHY/IANMACMICHAEL.CO.UK

38

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 38

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

39

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 39

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Braid Barbers HAIR BY: ROBERT BRAID @BRAIDBARBERS/BRAIDBARBERS.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: KIM HARDY @KIMHARDYPHOTOGRAPHY/ KIMHARDYHEADSHOTS.COM

40

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 40

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 41

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

42

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 42

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

Paul Simmons HAIR AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY: PAUL SIMMONS @KINGOFMENSHAIR

43

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 43

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Ben Hards HAIR BY: BEN HARDS OF THE SQUARE INSTA @BENHARDS/BENHARDS.COM PHOTOGRAPHY: SIMON MURRELL CLOTHES STYLING: JESSICA GRAY MUA: SALLY VINSON PRODUCTS: UNITE & GO24:7

44

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 44

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

45

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 45

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Jiggi HAIR BY: JIGGI @JIGGISALONS/JIGGI.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: ARRON DUNWORTH INSTA @ARRONDUNWORTH/ ARRONDUNWORTH.COM CLOTHES STYLING: KEIRA

46

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 46

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

47

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 47

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

Daniel Rymer HAIR BY: DANIEL RYMER @DANIEL_RYMER/DANIELRYMER.COM PHOTOGRAPHY: LEL BURNETT MUTEMEDIA.CO.UK CLOTHES STYLING: OWAIN PROCTER

48

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 48

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

49

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 49

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

I’ll be Your Mirror by Rebel Rebel HAIR BY: REBEL REBEL GLASGOW @WEE_REBEL/REBELBARBER.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHY: STUART SIMPSON STUART-SIMPSON.COM MUA: RACHEL SHEPHARD; CLOTHES STYLING: I’LL BE YOUR MIRROR

50

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 50

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

51

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 51

16/12/2015 10:43

PORTFOLIO

52

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 52

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:43

53

MB9_034-053_Portfolio.indd 53

16/12/2015 10:43

SOCIAL

10 Minute CHAT: The

Tony Roberts

Y

ou will have to go a long way to find a better ambassador for traditional barbering skills than Tony Roberts of Just Gents in Milton Keynes (FB Tony Roberts). His long career has given him wisdom, perspective and a great lifestyle and at 71, he’s not done yet! MB snatched a little of his time between clients…

MB: Give MB a little background…

TR: I’ve been a barber for 56 years. I started as an apprentice to the best in the business, Frank Barrett, in Spalding, Lincolnshire. I had the choice of being an apprentice barber or an apprentice projectionist, I’d always looked after my hair so I went for barber. I loved it from the start. The apprenticeship was five years and after that I headed for London. I had a great time working in shops there but you are never as rich as the man you work for, so I set up my own one man shop in Great Glenn, Leicestershire in 1965. My advice to younger barbers is ‘always leave the door open’. Leaving a job or a boss behind needs to be done in the right way. In the late sixties I set up a hairpiece company. We had something special because our hair pieces had a

54

MB9_054-055_10 Minute Chat.indd 54

Tony Roberts

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:46

Tony modelling one of his own hair pieces

Father and sons; Martin, Tony and Jamie

clear base, you could see the scalp and it looked so natural. I went all over the country fitting pieces, had some famous clients too. Then in ’79 my brother, who was the Mayor of Buckingham told me about a new city being built. I went to take a look and that’s how I opened my shop in Milton Keynes. I was the first barbershop in the city centre.

MB: So has barbering been kind to you?

TR: Oh sure. I’ve met some of the nicest people. It’s given me a great lifestyle, a beautiful house in Spain and both of my sons are in the industry now. I had four

shops in Milton Keynes at one time but I decided to retire. I sold two to staff and one to my eldest son before I realised, retirement’s not for me. There’s still lots to look forward to!

MB: Any rough patches as a businessman?

TR: Actually no. If you keep your skills evolving, then you’ll be fine. I can do long hair, I can do short hair. Nothing lasts forever and you’ve got to change with the times. I’ve already seen skin fades before!

Every head of hair is different. There is always something interesting to learn.

MB: What’s been a real career highlight?

TR: I’m already a State Registered Senior Barber but recently I was awarded Grand Master Barber status by the British Master Barbers Alliance. It was a fantastic accolade and totally unexpected. It makes me proud because it shows that people recognise that I’m good at what I do and that I have done it for a long time.

MB: So what advice would you give to a young man or woman thinking of setting up their own barber shop?

TR: Learn your industry well from the right people. Go and work for someone and be loyal and when you are ready, really ready, do it for yourself. Always be nice or it will always come back to haunt you. Treat your staff well, respect them and when you reach a certain point… give something back.

MB: And lastly. You always look so smart… are you naturally dapper?

TR: I have always worn a suit to work so I suppose it’s habit. When I worked in London I bought them from Lord John on Carnaby Street. A good suit makes you feel the part. What can I say?

I enjoy dressing well. •

Just Gents Milton Keynes

Visit just-gents.co.uk 55

MB9_054-055_10 Minute Chat.indd 55

16/12/2015 10:46

SOCIAL

Bottoms UP! Surely a grown man (or woman) can imbibe a brew without permission? Er…no. Barbershops and alcohol is a hotly debated subject. Here’s three approaches…

Wayne Anthony, founder of Barber Beers

The licensee Wayne Anthony of Wayne Anthony Executive Barbers (wayneanthonys. co.uk) in Halifax isn’t planning on selling a brand of beer, he’s creating one. “I’ve been a barber for 30 years and worked as a marketing consultant.

I have clients that are brewers at the Halifax Steam Brewing Company and about six months ago I started really focusing on creating a beer for barbers.

One that shops would be happy to stock. When you go for a curry, you automatically think Tiger beer and when you go for a cut, customers will think of this. I ran a competition with customers to name it! I’ve created three blends. Barberlite a crispy pale ale. Dirty Blonde a malty pale ale and Beardy Brew a dark stout with 56

MB9_056-58_Bottoms Up.indd 56

The Barber Beers range

chocolate flavours. The neck collar will be available for barbershops to brand for themselves. There will be trade deals and the customers’ RRP

will be £2.50 to £3.00. Barbershops can start with a case but don’t forget to make sure that you have your licensing in order.” ➤

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:47

MB9_057_Ad - Barber UK.indd 57

16/12/2015 10:47

SOCIAL

Short shot on licensing law

Robin Langley and the Ego Team

The licensor

Klara Vanova and Mark

Marmont

Robin Langley of Ego X for Men in Wrexham and Chester (ego-x.co.uk) was the very first barbers in the area to offer beer, Xbox and footie on the TV. He wanted to support his local brewery, Wrexham Lager (wrexhamlager.co.uk) and initially gave away the beer in his shops. He says “It was a great way to stand out in the area. It’s not so uncommon now but it’s important for us to continue

• You will need to consult your local council but you can find the broad strokes at gov.uk/guidance/ alcohol-licensing.

• Personal license – if you want to supply or authorise the sale of alcohol you need this. You need to go on a course and then apply for a licence.

It’s for you, not the shop.

• Premises license – your shop needs a license for the permanent sale or provision of alcohol. A personal license holder must be present.

• Club premises certificate – if you supply or sell alcohol to private members.

• Temporary Event Notice – if you are running an event at which you intend to supply or sell alcohol on a specific date (maximum 12 per year).

• Fees apply – both for any courses, for the initial license and for the annual renewal.

• Talk to your local licencing officer! supporting our local brewery and the customers like it. The beer now sells for £1.50. I have a personal licence and a two premises licences. There is quite a lot to consider and it took an appeal to the Wrexham Magistrates court to get the permitted hours that we needed.

It costs approximately £180 a year to maintain the licenses.”

The creative collab

n Just foverngfe u sells their

Re The Bluebeards Men’ le Ale for Real Pa e at m ‘The Ulti r’s Brewery. through Hunte e. d an flavoursom Blonde, hoppy / m ersmaltings.co £2.70 RRP tuck s-revenge the-bluebeard The Bluebeards Revenge Beer

58

MB9_056-58_Bottoms Up.indd 58

Klara Vanova owns Barberette (barberette.co.uk) at Warwick Works Studios in Hackney. Her gender neutral shop is a safe hair haven for her diverse clientele. She says “The shop is in a really creative space and I started chatting with 58 Gin and the owner and master distiller, Mark Marmont. We chatted and decided to create a ‘community spirit’. It’s called ‘Cutthroat Gin’ and it’s 47% and includes pepper, with a name like that you needed to feel it. I don’t have a license so it’s just for fun and I give some out for presents and parties.

I’m now talking to an off licence so that they can stock it.” (58-gin.com)!” •

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:47

MB9_059_Ad - IQueueBarbers.indd 59

16/12/2015 10:48

SOCIAL

A

Shaw

What I’ve been up to and where I’ve been

Wow! What an end to 2015. I spent New Year’s Eve celebrating in Spain – AMAZING! Happy New Year to all you MB readers.

Social Media Style File

We have been requesting Cut of the Week on our Facebook page and seen some great stuff. I think it’s really important for you guys to support each other and encourage this.

Hair by Tony Cairney

Hair by Ian Dodds

A lot of the time everyone feels a bit down at this time of the year what with all the diets starting now all the festive fun is over; some crazy people even decide to give up the booze!

Product of the Issue

Hair by Bobby Freedman

I kind of feel the same, I love my job, it’s awesome travelling everywhere but, if I’m honest, when people ask me what the worst part of my job is, I will always reply simply ‘being away from home’.

I never show it or get my head down but over the years it has cracked me up a bit!

But let’s not dwell on the January blues, 2016 is going to be another jam packed year with some long awaited product launches and our new ‘Wahl British Barber of the Year’ Comp. This year we have added some categories, so as well as the Barber of the Year, we will be looking for ‘Salon of the Year’ and one that I feel really passionate about – ‘Wahl Course Delegate of the Year’. Entry details are on the Wahl website so come on guys get creative, it’s the one to win!

60

MB9_060-061_A Shaw Thing.indd 60

The Royal Razor

If I’m honest, when people ask me what the worst part of my job is, I will always reply simply ‘being away from home’.

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:48

THING Simon’s Shout Out There’s a lot this last few months but Bobby Freedman from Bobby Dazzlers gets my shout out.

Hair

by Bobby Freedman

Top NON-Skill Tip Preparation! As you know, to keep the cuts looking good you need to look after your equipment. It’s your tool, so make sure at the end of the day your blades are clean and oiled and if it is cordless that it’s on charge. It’s just a nice feeling when you come in in the morning with everything ready to go, rather than having to clean up from the day before. No matter how much your feet or back ache at the end of the day it’s worth the effort, trust me.

The TOP Skill Tip Use the 1/2 guard and 1 1/2 guards when blending and fading, it works a treat.

The Buzz I remember when I was about 20-ish doing my first hair show at Barnsley College with Dimensions for about 200 people. The hair styling was good but presenter I was not! Nervous, not

prepared, didn’t know my stuff! I went away from that and really got my head around presenting, doing lots of talking on staff training, setting these sessions up like proper seminars and going into schools for career talks etc. When I did the next big performance, it was better, faster, cleaner; so I did more practice.

HARD WORK, DEDICATION, HARD WORK, DEDICATION!

Dates for your Diary 7 FEBRUARY Super Bowl

19-23 FEBRUARY London Fashion Week

28 & 29 FEBRUARY Pro Hair Live

17-20 MARCH

The Last Word To sum up 2015 I would say that it’s been a year where British barbering hit the top globally! Well done to most off you. It’s where we go from here, it’s how we keep moving forward.

The one thing we do at Wahl after great shows, seminars and demos is, we move on to the next game and get better and faster and that’s what you all need to do because the hair salons have now started to raise their game on men’s and they are good!!

One thing that could help is to be a lot nicer and more respectful to each other on some social media sites!

Etiquette is the word that I reckon should be on everyone’s New Year’s Resolution List. As always if you’ve got something to say then just email me on ashawthing@wahl.co.uk. •

Cosmoprof Follow me on Twitter @WahlAcademy 61

MB9_060-061_A Shaw Thing.indd 61

16/12/2015 10:48

SOCIAL

Fame PRICE OF

What’s the deal about celebrity clients?

Kieron Webb (@thelondonbarber) does a few and knows the score.

J

ust across from where Kieron Webb used to work was the office of a high profile entertainment management company. Turns out the boss liked the way Kieron cut hair and before you know it, Kieron was being called upon to shape and style in the hotel rooms and backstage dressing rooms of the rich and famous. Client loyalty is tough to come by at the best of times but you’ve got to be faultlessly on point with your skills, when the likes of Zayn Malik is a regular.

Kieron says “When you have a celebrity client you need to be flexible. Often when you get a call, it will be…’can you come now?’ It’s often spontaneous. When Zayn was part of One Direction he once flew me to Australia for 24 hours.

I touched down, cut his hair, slept and then went back to reshape his beard and then headed for the airport.” Kieron says that flexibility and open mindedness also needs to be extended to the celebrity’s hair. “Celebrity clients know that their hair will be a talking point and be photographed Kieron Webb from all angles. Their look is very public. Sometimes they want that look to be why people photograph and remember them. They want it to be a talking point,” explains Kieron. There can be some personal fall out to being the grooming expert for a celebrity though and that’s the fans. Kieron created a little tail at the side of Zayn’s nape, just for fun and when Zayn tweeted it and tagged Kieron, his tweet got 35,000 RT’s in 15 seconds.

That’s what you get when you’ve got 16.5 million followers!

Now Kieron is a target for fan opinion that sometimes includes threats. Oh and a bunch of weird requests. “Fans ask me to send them Zayn’s hair or tell them what he smells like. You just blank it. Never respond or get involved,” says Kieron. These days Kieron is now an independent educator and part of the Wahl Artistic family, but turns out that celebrities are loyal clients!” • 62

MB9_062_Price of Fame.indd 62

Tips on celebrity client service Be patient – there could be a lot of waiting Be flexible – they want what they want, when they want it Be confidential – no leaking sensitive or inappropriate info Be real – no room for being star struck, you’ve got a client in the chair!

Zayn Malik

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:49

MB9_063_Ad - BarberBlades.indd 63

16/12/2015 10:49

F E AT U R E

Team Bar Bearia São Paulo Brazil

The BARBERS of Sindi Devitte has a thriving shop in Coventry but regularly heads to her Brazilian homeland to share some British born #barberlove. MB found out more…

L

ast year Sindi Devitte (FB Sindi Devitte) purchased the freehold of the shop that she had leased in Coventry since 2010. It was a landmark moment in her barbering journey, one that she hopes won’t ever end. The

four chair shop called the Barbers Clan (FB Barbers Clan) is just the tip of her barbering iceberg. Family and her three British kids are what brought Sindi to the UK over 11 years ago but it’s her passion for British barbering that will keep her here, now they are nearly grown. Sindi

Sindi’s latest stint to Brazil and Argentina lasted 26 days and took her through six cities and six training seminars plus a number of private courses. In some cases, Sindi gives her time at cost because of her huge belief in the value and power of barbering. “Barbering is a good and powerful profession, it can connect people and together they can make a difference. I really love it. This began because I had to return to Brazil for

Sindi Devitte

64

MB9_064-065_Barbers of Brazil.indd 64

says “I did a hairdressing course when I came to the UK and started working in a barbershop. I really made a commitment to learn as much as I can. I went to Paul Mitchell and Simon Shaw seminars and worked really hard. I won’t ever stop learning but now I am in a position to share what I know. It’s tough because I have a business but I try and get back to Brazil and South America a few times a year to teach.”

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:49

Rei da Barba Shop Brazil

Barbering is a good and powerful profession, it can connect people and together they can make a difference.

I really love it.

SINDI DEVITTE

some banking business a few years ago and the bank manager wanted to know my profession. I said ‘barber’. He said ‘that is not a recognised profession’. I couldn’t believe it. So I started talking on social media with other barbers in Brazil and saw how they were struggling to raise

standards and get some respect. I wanted to change that.” Sindi has a high profile in South America and is known simply as ‘The Brazilian Barber’. There is always huge press interest when she visits, but Sindi isn’t in it for fame but family; the barber family. Some of her trips have Team Llongueras Argentina

been quite the adventure. Last year she launched a show for barbers in São Paulo – a kind of mini BarberConnect.

Sindi says “The day of the show the Brazilian people were calling for the impeachment of the President and there were huge protests. The police shut the city down. It was a nightmare because only about half of the eight hundred barbers were able to come and many of the exhibitors couldn’t make it. I even crashed my car, packed with barbers, on the way there. In the end it was a fantastic day. The barbers had never seen anything like it before.” Barbering in Brazil lacks methodology, there is no college structure and few educators and most just learn as they go, so Sindi’s skills are in high demand. Sindi says “Barbers are beginning to help each other, to improve and gain respect. There are some brilliant high end shops and quality barbers there. Many people think of only the poverty in Brazil and that needs to change.” Sindi does find time to do some training in the big city shanty towns when she visits, but tries only to bring focus to raising the industry profile as a whole. There are future bookings for courses and seminars from Argentina, Chile, Uruguay and of course more in Brazil, but for now Sindi is back home in the city and the shop she loves best. • 65

MB9_064-065_Barbers of Brazil.indd 65

16/12/2015 10:49

SOCIAL

Barber King

Moscow

Educator, creative and barber businessman Sid Sottung (sidsottungacademy.com/@sidsottung) teamed up with his brand of choice Lock, Stock and Barrel (lockstockandbarrel.com) to help make Russia’s very first barber battle a huge success.

T

he Barber King barber battle took place last November in one of Moscow’s newest event venues and hosted approximately 500 barber attendees and six key competitors pre-selected for the event. Sid Sottung is a regular to Russia and frequently visits both as an independent educator and as Ambassador for the Lock Stock and Barrel brand. Sid judged the event and presented the Barber King with his winner’s belt and a tidy pile of cash worth approximately £1000. The winner also received a week long course at Sid’s own academy in Nottingham.

Sid selected six models for the competitors and at the beginning of the event they rolled a dice to select their model. Each competitor had 60 minutes to complete their look live on stage, cheered on by a high energy crowd. Sid says “This was the first Barber King and next year will be a lot bigger. There was a lot of press interest and I personally did three TV interviews and seven magazine interviews. Just like here, there has been a huge explosion in the Russian barbering industry but they need a lot of education. Rather than copying cuts from Instagram they need to learn skills that will help develop their own creative style and originality.”

66

MB9_066_Barber King.indd 66

Sid Sottung

Sid’s role as ambassador for Lock Stock and Barrel was a natural evolvement after Sid selected them seven years ago for their fashion credentials and formulas and went on to establish

a relationship with the brands founder. Sid helps the familyowned company develop new blends and bring their products to life through creative hair work and education. “It’s essential to love the products that you sell, recommend and represent.

Being an ambassador gives me a role to represent a brand I would use anyway. We share an ethos and that’s so important,” explains Sid. Barber King will be back next year, but for Sid… it’s on to Singapore… •

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:50

MB9_067_Ad - Lock Stock and Barrel.indd 67

16/12/2015 10:50

TIPS

ON

Watch

Just because most of us check the time on our phone, it doesn’t mean it’s ‘time out’ for watches – good wrist candy is more popular than ever!

M

easuring time is a human obsession.

In fact, we’ve been doing it for about 30,000 years but the wristwatch only became accessible to the wider public in the early 1900’s. You can pick up a watch for a few pounds but for

those in the know, vintage and second hand are where it’s at. If you’ve done your homework, you can bag yourself a bargain too. Last year one observant man in Arizona picked up a vintage divers watch for $5.99 at a charity shop and swapped it out days later for $35,000 and a nice Omega. Sweet!

To help you gen up MB turned to Jonathan House of Austin Kaye (@austinkaye/austinkaye.co.uk) on the Strand. His company has been selling watches since 1946, so we asked him to help with our cheat sheet.

What does ‘automatic’ actually mean?

An automatic or ‘self-winding’ watch refers to the mechanism which powers it and contains a counterweight inside which rotates with the movement of the wrist, powering the watch.

Automatic vs Manual, what’s better?

The age old question and one that comes down to personal preference. Manual watches will tend to be slimmer in size than an automatic. So the style of watch makes a difference i.e. dress watches will tend to be manual and sports watches are usually automatic.

When buying an automatic what are the key things to look for?

For starters, make sure the second hand doesn’t tick! An automatic watch has a sweeping second hand. After that, the most important thing is where you are buying the watch from. Established companies with reputations can make you feel safer as a consumer and quality speaks volumes. Condition is very important so try to see the watch first hand. Check the dial for water damage and restoration work. Check the case for

68

MB9_068-069_On Watch.indd 68

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:50

Edw s rard Hemming

How should you take good care of your timepiece?

Service your watch regularly, Austin Kaye recommends between 3 to 5 years for vintage watches. Don’t assume that because the watch was waterproof in the 1950’s that it is now! If you get water inside the watch it will rust and that’s the worst thing for any watch.

Which watch makes hold and appreciate in value?

There are two watch brands that do better than the others and they are Rolex (more specifically their sports models, The Daytona, Submariner

and GMT Master) and Patek Philippe (nearly all models). Value is affected by a combination of quality, number of watches produced, if they are discontinued and if they have a celebrity association i.e. ‘Steve McQueen’ Rolex Explorer II and ‘Paul Newman’ Rolex Daytona Cosmograph. ll Pho to by Ami Barwe

dents/scratches and the condition of the strap or bracelet. Does the watch have its original box or paperwork? These things add value and are important for future value when you come to sell your watch.

Edward loves ‘em

Barbering educator Edward Hemmings (@alandhair/@ dmaneducation) is a long-time watch enthusiast.

What does he love about them?

“A mechanical watch lives and breathes.

You can find a really wearable daily classic for less than £2000 with the Rolex Datejust. The best part of all is that bought well, you will scarcely lose any money when it comes to upgrading or flipping watches and you get to wear an incredible timepiece. Try doing that with a classic car!” says Edward. •

Here’s Edward’s top tips on buying a Classic Rolex: • Stick to your budget and find the right watch. Don’t compromise on condition of dial or originality.

• Box and papers are desirable but you can’t wear them and they can be faked.

• Beware of on-line scams. Loads of 100% feedback on penny items and boom you’ve bought a fake £5000 Rolex.

• Tudor watches (sister brand of Rolex and until the 1990’s, Rolex made) are having a renaissance. Buy a classic one while you can!

• Find a military-issue Rolex or the elusive 3-colour Paul Newman Daytona in your relatives’ old belongings and you could be looking at a lottery win.

69

MB9_068-069_On Watch.indd 69

16/12/2015 10:50

TIPS

How to do the

Fighter Pilot tache!

Frank Rimer of Thy Barber London is legendary for his magnificent mo and so MB asked him to share his styling secret.

Thanks Frank! @frank_glorified/thybarber.com

Frank says “If you are like me and are unfortunate enough to have straight facial hair, then you’ll know it’s quite difficult to curl the ends of your moustache. I’ve found that the old techniques tend to work the best.”

The fights gone out of this one, so it’s time for a fresh style from Frank.

To start, Frank uses a small amount of his favourite, Mr Kings Marvellous Moustache Wax @mrkingswax.

He runs it evenly through the hairs, after warming it up between fingers and thumbs.

He then uses a small brush and a hairdryer to heat the product and to help prevent any clumps of wax being visible in the hair, this process will help soften the hairs and set direction and shape once it cools. If you don’t have a small brush then a toothbrush will work too.

Frank then uses his antique moustache tongues to help curl that straight facial hair. Frank heats them using the hairdryer and then simply clamps the ends and lets them cool to set a tight curl. It might all sound a bit much but this is what men used to do to create the perfectly even moustache curl.

Frank then puts a touch more moustache wax on to add hold and with a light brush to finish he’s all set for the day…

And that is how you style the Fighter Pilot moustache. What-ho!

Photography: Teresa Allaire 70

MB9_070_The Fighter Pilot Mo.indd 70

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:51

MB9_071_Ad - NHF.indd 71

16/12/2015 10:51

TIPS

#staysharp Photo by Dan Rix

Shavemeister Robert Rix of the Master Barber’s Shop in Southport (themasterbarber.co.uk/@master_barbers) knows razors and knows just how intuitive and instinctive the honing process is… so get your Jedi on and get practicing. Robert says…

T

o set a razor demands a four way relationship between you, the stone, the steel and the whetting medium (water/oil/lather). It’s an age old process that brings a barber a real sense of professional satisfaction.

Essential info You can’t get a good edge with either a bad hone or a bad razor. Go with the best you can afford, always. Finding the ‘sweet spot’ takes time – an underset or overset razor is as bad as an unset razor.

You will learn to FEEL the moment the razor is set in the bite of the hone and the run of the whetting medium. Never set a razor straight after shaving, let it rest for a few hours to ensure that it has returned to its original profile.

Equipment The Belgian Hone – slate based yellow stone, choose a medium-fast stone that’s 22cm by 5cm in size. Great for hollowground razors of all sizes and good for removing nicks in the blade.

Best lubricant: light mineral oil.

72

MB9_072_Stay Sharp.indd 72

Water Hone – natural slate with a velvety grain, too fine for solid or semi-solid blades. Choose a large stone about 30cm long and 10cm wide. It’s my favourite. Best lubricant: pure water and ‘lather’ made by dipping the stone in water and being rubbed with another slate or ‘napping stone’ to create a slate lather and then left to dry.

Carborundum – compound carbon and silicon. Choose a No.292 (fine) and a No.146 (medium). A useful supplementary stone for working on rough razors or to make them thinner.

Technique Described here for a hollow ground razor on a Belgian Stone.

• Clean the hone in running water with a fine pumice. Lay on a flat firm surface.

• Lubricate the hone with a light mineral oil, or for a very dull razor, one part paraffin to three of oil to prevent the oil clogging the hone and giving it more ‘bite’. Sprinkle over the hone.

• Open the razor and grip the tang of the blade between thumb and first finger, the remaining fingers loosely encircle the handle.

• Place the blade FLAT on the right side at a 45% degree angle and move forward edge first towards the left.

For each stroke the blade must traverse the hone surface.

• On the second stroke turn the blade ON ITS BACK and repeat in reverse from left to right.

Repeat in equal numbers on each side with a firm even pressure.

The lubricant will turn black and as the stone ‘bites’ you will hear a cutting noise.

• Wipe the blade with a soft rag, but do not draw the blade across the rag.

• Test the set by holding up a single hair and place the blade smartly against it. If the hair is severed cleanly the blade is keen.

You can find a YouTube video of Robert’s honing action on the British Barbers’ Association Channel. •

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:51

MB9_073_Ad - SEC.indd 73

16/12/2015 10:52

TIPS

Step ByStep Chris Foster of the Foss Academy (fossacademy.co.uk) is an international educator and premium men’s groomer.

His online education videos cover a broad range of techniques. Follow the instructions to get exclusive video content direct from this page!

Scan with the Layar app!

Chris says, “Just download the Layar app to your device and then scan this page to view exclusive video content. Layar is an augmented reality platform that will take you directly to this technique bringing this page alive

Before

Step 1

Step 2

Before cutting a flattop ensure the hair is combed out thoroughly, using an afro comb to pick out as many kinks and curls in the hair as possible.

Using the comb and clipper cutting technique, open the blade to 0.5 and smooth the hair with the clippers.

The initial position is at 90° in the transitional zone, this preserves the hair at the top of the fade. This will also help smooth the transitional area between the top and the sides.

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

As the clipper moves down the hair, change the angle to 45° to a 0° degree angle to create a smooth graduation that goes from longer to shorter.

Identify where the round of the head begins in order to establish the flat top.

Working on the sides, suspend the clipper off the head and work straight off the parietal ridge.

74

MB9_074-075_Step by Step.indd 74

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:52

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Move panel by panel working from right-to-left. If you are right-handed work right to left, or vice versa. This ensures that you are working from the initial guide. Continue to work this method to refine the shape working off the guideline on the side of the head.

Re-comb the top of the head and using the clipper free-hand start in the middle of the flattop working backwards and combing to ensure that all the curls are combed out. Repeat until the guide is well established. Work either side of this guide to complete the top.

Work against the grain at the back to establish the fade graduation, continually combing any dead hair away.

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

To shape the hairline establish a guideline in the centre of the head.

Work either side of the hairline to establish a clean outline shape.

Never cut unnaturally into the hairline.

Continue to mark up around the whole perimeter of the hairline.

To refine the shape further use 6.5” to 7” scissors. Comb and cut the hair several times ensuring the shape is firmly established.

Finished look

Step 12

Step 13

Thoroughly comb the hair out to determine whether the flat top shape is firmly established. Once this is completed spray with a fixative this helps to identify any discrepancies in the overall shape.

Continue one last pass with the scissors to ensure that the hair cut is polished.

75

MB9_074-075_Step by Step.indd 75

16/12/2015 10:52

TIPS

TACKLING

Growth patterns MB tapped the team at Ashley’s Barber Shop in Taunton (@ashleywebber_dcg/FB Ashley’s Barber Shop) for tips on how to deal with the bits that have got a mind of their own.

What to do about it…

Double crowns, cowlicks, nape swirls.

Look for all of them when you are assessing every head of hair. Most customers know why their hair sticks up or won’t behave in places, but don’t assume, so tell them what you find. Talk about the target style and if it’s something that will work with that growth pattern. Manage their expectations and offer an alternative.

Fine hair and young clients are typically where you find cowlicks. The thicker the hair the bigger the problem, especially if you find a double crown.

Nape swirls can be disguised with a nice tapered neck, take it down short so that it takes time before it can become a problem to the rest of the style. Or you could go with the direction of growth and accommodate it in the style. With double crowns, favour textured messy looks. You can go three ways, maintain the length to drag that hair down, take it off short or texturize it to remove the weight and length and blend with a messy style. For short clipper work and fading work against the growth to get an even finish. •

Images and wisdom courtesy of Ashley, George, CJ, Kieren and Eddie

What to look out for…

76

MB9_076_Growth Patterns.indd 76

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:52

BRAND YOUR OWN

Expand your business and go mobile, giving you and your brand more freedom and opportunity.

Barbers Box is a NEW mobile business, allowing you to travel virtually anywhere to reach your clients and with the right finance package you could have your own Barbers Box from £136 per week plus £2000 franchise fee.

The barbering world is booming and customers are looking for ever more convenient locations to have their hair cut and so Barbers Box was jointly developed by Robin Langley, owner of the Ego X chain of hairdressers and barbers plus the world renowned trailer manufacturer Ifor Williams Trailers.

The result is an astounding, ultra-modern, clean and stylish salon which can be transported to any location with ease and set up in minutes. Last year Barbers Box was invited to work as part of the VIP facilities backstage at the Isle of Wight festival 2015 cutting and styling the band members before their stage performance.

Become part of this amazing business and start enjoying the perks of having a very stylish, unique and successful mobile barbers business, with our proven track record, low start-up costs and low overheads, a franchise with us could be your key to a better future.

Only three own-brand Barbers Boxes available! When they’re gone, they’re gone.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Leather-look padded walls, creating a high end salon feel.

• CCTV fitted for security and cross checking cash receipts.

• Includes virtually everything you need to get started straight away, even the First Aid kit.

• Includes dedicated Barbers Box generator.

The above figure is to act as a guide only, price of £27,950 excluding vat and is subject to status and customers over the age of 18 years.

Barbers Box is acting as Apportionment and Oversight and not a lender and is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority for consumer credit FCA no. 720631.

For enquiries call 01978 710100 or email info@barbersbox.co.uk • www.barbersbox.co.uk MB9_077_Barbers Box.indd 77

16/12/2015 10:53

TIPS

TOPtips How to build a business…

Kevin Vorley of KBarbers Emporium has developed ‘the K Way’, his integrated approach to building business. Here’s the short version. Kevin says…

Quality – a professional attitude and a confident level of skill performed consistently makes quality a sure thing. Being committed to delivering that quality is what makes a barber and his business stand out. Standards and professionalism are key.

Consistency – training is the bedrock of consistency, so be self-critical and work at your weaknesses. The K Team improves and refines their work continuously through model nights.

Continuity – is the really tough one on growing business, but having common goals in quality and consistency will build continuity. It’s not just doing the same thing every time, it’s about doing the right thing, at the best quality, all of the time.

Adapt – keep looking at your business with fresh eyes as a barber, consumer and businessman. If you can, get in a business coach for a day. Business is an elastic thing and it needs to adapt and change to improve.

Kevin Vorley

Develop – Look to your business community for inspiration. Talk to clients. Talk to your team members.

Keep pushing boundaries on how you can develop as a barber and as a business.

Progress – Make sure you have clear, measurable and achievable goals to work to. Plot your own progression, be conscious and honest about it. Find likeminded and ambitious people and understand how they have succeeded. Progress is a lifestyle and don’t waste time on worrying about other people’s judgements of your journey. If your journey ends tomorrow, would you be satisfied with what you have achieved?

Find out more about Kevin and his ‘K Way’ at kbarbers.com/ @kbarbersemp

78

MB9_078-080_Top Tips.indd 78

How to #getregistered…

Becoming a card carrying registered member of the Barber Council is one way to show off your credentials to clients and potential employees. Here, Registrar Sally Styles tells you how…

What you need – copies of your barbering qualification certificates with an equivalent of NVQ Level 2 and above OR you can claim ‘Grandfather Rights’ if you can demonstrate a track record of over six years of successful barbering with an official letter from someone such as your accountant or boss.

How to do it online – visit www.haircouncil.org.uk and click the ‘Register here’ button.

Choose the Barber button that is relevant to your qualification or time of service. Complete the form. You can then upload your paperwork or send copies by email or post. Pay the fee of £42 pa or £3.50 per month. Once the paperwork has been checked your membership will begin.

How to do it by post – contact the Hair Council on 020 8760 7010 and request a form. Complete the form making sure you say which type of registration you require. Either complete the credit card or direct debit details or write a cheque for the fee. Pop it in the post!

What you get – a window cling for your shop or mirror telling customers you are a registered barber. The right to use your professional status on business stationary with ‘SRB’ after your name. A membership card with your photo (additional fee may apply).

A monthly magazine full of advice and info, access to the business help line, membership of a growing community of state registered barbers.

Visit haircouncil.org.uk.

Follow @barbercouncil.

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:53

DIGITAL SHOPPING GUIDE – NOW AVAILABLE Looking for new barber products, furniture and services? Then go online to issuu.com/modernbarbermagazine.

MB has created a digital Storefront Shopping Guide that buddies every issue. You can find all the brands that support your industry, along with relevant info and articles and click through to their online content.

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE! GUARANTEE DELIVERY Subscribe for £20 inc postage for 4 issues a year at modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe Our complimentary database randomly selects 10,000 addresses each issue. Subscription means you never miss out.

Sign up free to receive offers and info on the modernbarber.co.uk home page.

You never know what might pop up in your inbox.

STAY CONNECTED

REACH THE READERS

Email your opinions and stories to rachel@modernbarber.co.uk follow twitter @modernbarbermag FB Modern Barber Magazine instagram modernbarbermag

For advertising opportunities, email rachel@modernbarber.co.uk or kelly@modernbarber.co.uk

MB9_079_House Ad.indd 79

Prices start at £425 ex VAT. Remember there are only four opportunities a year to reach the readers!

16/12/2015 10:54

TIPS

How to make a cold-busting smoothie…

Pack in the snot banning vitamins in preparation for the ‘season’ or give yourself a boost if you are already suffering.

300g frozen berries and fruit (i.e. blackberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, blackcurrants, blueberries) OR 450g fresh berries 1 banana Juice from 1 orange or one small glass of shop bought juice (not from concentrate) 250ml coconut water Handful of dried cranberries A shot of maple syrup to sweeten to taste.

Give it a whizz in the blender and you’re good to go.

How to be WIFI compliant…

Offering guest Wi-Fi can leave you vulnerable because the responsibility falls on you to ensure that you and your users are operating within the law. Ryan StephensonBrown of Retail Secure offers a compliance system that will help you. Read on to discover his top tips.

It’s the law! Be aware that the Data Protection Acts and the Digital Economy Act say the Wi-Fi provider is responsible for how the web is being used every time you allow others access to your router.

Be secure. You probably have lots of devices connected to your Wi-Fi, from your own phone to your shop POS system. Your first port of call for compliance is security, protecting you 80

MB9_078-080_Top Tips.indd 80

your users’ behaviour, so you can ensure no suspicious surfing or illegal downloads.

Put the data to work. As the business owner you must fiercely protect the data your customers share with you but as long as they’ve given you permission, you can use it to help your business.

Share info about new services, business hours, or new barbers – even send out recruitment alerts. and your customers from cyber-attacks.

Password protection on your router is the least you can do, but an entirely outsourced platform by a secure provider is better.

Make sure they sign up. Signing up for guest Wi-Fi might initially be a pain but it’s the law and it allows you as the Wi-Fi provider to track and capture

Mine your data. With the right compliance platform you can interrogate the way your customers are using the Web. What percentage is on Instagram? YouTube? It will help you shape your future marketing.

Avoid fines and follow the law with a legally compliant WIFI system. For more info visit barbers.retailsecure.co.uk

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:53

MB9_081_Ad - Moda / High Energy / Clocca Capes.indd 81

16/12/2015 10:54

TIPS

Steve’s

Check out Steve’s wardrobe on Instagram Inky Steve, twitter @inkysteve or also follow @BarberBarberUK

SHOES

S

teve says “The shoe fascination began with Ebay in 2000 when I started collecting rare trainers, I didn’t even wear most of

them. It was more about the chase but I’ve always loved shoes. After that I just got into them, there are loads of great shoes out there and if I see something that’s different I’ll get it. You can make

Primark clothes look good with quality shoes but cheap shoes are cheap shoes and they look it. You’ve got to have good shoes. I hoard them, I can’t throw them out. I have over 100 pairs.” •

Classic tassel mod loafer in patent black by the one and only Fred Perry

Classic Vans busted red canvas

Clarks Originals Beckery Field rust leather

Church's two tone big hole Gibson brogues tan and white leather

Grenson Archie brogues in navy leather and suede with crepe soles and red laces

Nike Free 5.0 currently 180 miles of cross country running!

Loake tan brogues red laces vintage

Converse All Star Lo navy canvas

Trickers tan and canvas brogues

74

MB9_082_Steve's Shoes.indd 74

MODERN BARBER

16/12/2015 10:54

MB9_IBC_Ad - Maletti.indd 83

16/12/2015 10:55

MB9_OBC_Ad - Jack Dean.indd 84

16/12/2015 10:55