食之大學 University of Eat

有 關 本 土、連 繫、和 平 的 美 味 Savouring the local, connections and peace

食之大學

The University of Eat

「食之大學」是賽馬會“創不同”學院 於 2016 至 2017 年間的項目。來自 世界各地的創意工作者與本地街坊 及參與者，在三道課程中烹煮出食 物的層層滋味： 「山海食堂」是有關山海、天氣、風 俗、人情的本土美食記。 「心の料理」修復人與人和天地萬物 之間的關係，煮一圍親厚，吃滿腹 隨喜。 「吃一口平和」的材料是家、求生和 共存。碟碟關愛之間，用叉子投票。 這本書是過程結集，並輯錄了載着 故 事 的 食 譜。 謝 謝 各 位 用 心 的 大 廚。ごちそうさま。

“The University of Eat” is a programme presented by the Jockey Club Make a Difference School in 2016-2017.

International creative practitioners and local residents came together and cooked up a three-course, thought-provoking feast: “Eating Among Mountains and Seas” chews on savoury tales of our natural environment, climate, customs and human ties.

“Treats from the Heart” relates to one another and the world around us, and fills our stomachs with connections and joy.

“Recipes for Peace” samples ingredients of home, survival and coexistence. In servings of care, we vote with our forks.

This book is a compilation of the processes and recipes with stories. Many thanks to our thoughtful chefs. Bon appétit!

目錄

Contents

山海食堂 Eating Among Mountains and Seas 客家人的茶粿 Hakka Rice Dumplings

粗葉茶粿 Ramie Leaves Rice Dumplings

12

圍頭人的茶粿 Weitou Rice Dumplings

石榴仔 Little Guava Rice Dumplings

18

漁民的番薯大餐 Fishermen’ s Sweet Potato Feast

番薯煮大芥菜 Sweet Potato and Leaf Mustard Stew

28

番薯薄 Sweet Potato Pancakes

30

番薯湯丸 Sweet Potato Rice Dumplings

32

池仔魚粉絲湯 Chi Jai Fish and Glass Noodles Soup

38

煎鹹鮮藍鯧魚 Pan-fried Blue Butterfish

40

豆渣餅 Bean Dregs Cakes

48

鑊邊 Lat Wok Bin

52

不時不食的海上鮮 Fresh from the Sea

婆婆嫲嫲的石磨 Grandma’ s Mill

心の料理 Treats from the Heart 不一樣的藍 A Different Kind of Blue

三心料理 Cooking with Three Minds

Nasi Kerabu

64

蔥菜馬蹄牛肉餅 Beef Patty with Pickles and Water Chestnuts

72

家鄉咸湯圓 Hometown Savoury Rice Dumplings

74

魚肉餃子 Fish Dumplings

76

薑蔥炒蟹 Green Onion Ginger Crab

80

大心：醃菜心 Big Mind: Pickled Choy Sum

90

老心：飛龍頭 Parental Mind: Flying Dragon Heads

94

喜心：蔬菜火鍋 Happy Mind: Vegetables Hotpot

98

精進天婦羅 Tempura Practice

100

清粥一小碗 A Small Bowl of Congee

101

吃一口平和 Recipes for Peace 分歧中的同一窩飯 Shared Despite Conflicts

Biryani

114

療癒的「私房藥方」 Kitchen Remedies

蘋果 Apple

119

白烚蛋 Hard-boiled eggs

119

梅乾 Umeboshi

121

Mal de amor

121

填補罅縫的點心 Dim Sum to Fill an Interstice

123

薄餅的十萬百千里 A Pizza from a Thousand Miles Way

129

甚麼是吃一口平和？ What Exactly Are Recipes for Peace?

食的社會創新 Food Innovations

夏枯草 Heal-all Herbal Tea

140

咕嚕肉 Sweet and Sour Pork

142

加鹽咖啡 Salted Coffee

144

148

山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas

提到「地道美食」，很多人會想到 茶餐廳、大牌檔。變成文化標籤之 前， 這 些 食 肆 見 證 了 香 港 社 會 發 展。如果一口奶茶能令我們嚐到殖 民歷史、基層打工仔拼搏中的片刻 休閒，這個城市還有甚麼食物，可 以讓我們細味到百家燈火中的甜酸 苦辣？ 離開城市中心，「山海食堂」上山 下海，走訪多個早期「香港人」扎 根的村落。在被都市化、全球一體 化洗禮之前，在儉樸的歲月中，人 們靠山吃山，靠海吃海。食物和環 境、天氣、風俗、社會及家庭結構 密不可分。 「用味道開始，去認識原來香港的族 群，因為不同的山海、不同的環境 條件，而有不同的食物。」跟我們 一起細味這則「本土美食記」的口 述歷史學者朱耀光老師如是說：「我 們會否能透過歷史，連繫生活的這 個地方？」

To many, Hong Kong’s “local specialties” bring to mind Cha Chaan Tang and Tai Pai Dong. Before they became cultural symbols, these eateries have witnessed the development of Hong Kong. If a sip of milk tea is infused with colonial history and momentary breaks from hard labour, can we taste the rich flavours of this city in other foods?

Venturing out from the city centre, “Eating Among Mountains and Seas” took participants to remote villages, where “Hongkongers” first settled. Way before urbanization and globalization, what and how people ate were inseparable from their habitats. Customs and traditions, social and family structures were also indispensible ingredients.

“Starting with taste, we learn about how culinary habits vary from place to place because of different environmental conditions,” says Dr CHU Yiu-kwong, an oral historian who sampled these local flavours together with us. “Through history, can we connect with the place we call home?”

項目伙伴：朱耀光博士 | 明愛元朗鄉郊社區發展計劃 | 明愛龍躍頭社區發展計劃 | 明愛長洲西灣社區發展計劃 | 明愛西貢社區發展計劃 | 明愛薄扶林社區發展計劃 | Programme Partners: Dr CHU Yiu-kwong | Caritas Yuen Long Rural Community Development Project | Caritas Lung Yeuk Tau Community Development Project | Caritas Cheung Chau Sai Wan Community Development Project | Caritas Sai Kung Community Development Project | Caritas Pokfulam Community Development Project

Treats from the Heart 2

客家 人 的 茶粿 Hakka Rice Dumplings

行山時，偶爾會遇到賣茶粿的公公 婆婆。軟綿的糯米粉團，包着或鹹 或甜的餡料，風味小點既輕便又果 腹。茶粿是客家傳統食物。客家人 自 17 世紀已在香港聚居，是最早的 原居民之一。 元朗錦上路元崗村邊陲，有一個地 方叫「東邊路」，陽光充沛，位於 清潭下游，背靠菠蘿山，自然環境 有利農業。從前客家人在那邊住下 來，現在，十幾幢舊式老屋還住着 十 多 戶 老 村 民， 他 們 在 此 已 住 了 五、六十年。 香港社會不斷城市化、現代化，婆 婆仍維持落田耕作、以柴火燒灶煮 食的生活習慣，充份利用當地的自 然資源，用傳統手藝做出一道道地 道 美 點： 醃 梅 菜、 曬 臘 肉、 梘 水 糭……當然還有客家茶粿。

Hiking in the mountains, once in a while one runs into elders selling rice dumplings.

Sometimes savoury, sometimes sweet, these sticky rice treats are both handy and filling for eating on the road. Rice dumplings are a Hakka tradition. The Hakka people are among the earliest inhabitants and had settled in Hong Kong since the 17th century.

At the edge of Yuen Kong Village, Kam Sheung Road, Yuen Long, there is a place called Tung Pin Road. With plenty of sunshine, situated at the lower course of a stream and backed by Por Lo Shan, it is a favourable environment for agriculture.

The Hakka people settled there a long time ago. Now, ten odd old-style buildings still remain. The residents have been living there for more than half a century.

While Hong Kong has been urbanized and modernized, the elders there are preserving the old way of life. They still farm, burn wood for fire and cook with a stove. Making use of local resources, they keep culinary traditions alive: pickles, cured pork belly, akaline dumplings and of course, Hakka rice dumplings.

3 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 4

過時過節，客家人會親手做茶粿， 與家人共享，或者送贈親朋戚友。 做茶粿工序繁多：金黃的稻穗打穀 後，要用「碓坎」打成粉；蕉葉折 下來剪成圓形；花生炒香壓碎，包 入新鮮做好的粉團；爐灶加柴起火， 燒一大鍋滾水，一籃子的茶粿蒸熟 後就大功告成。 在集體勞動的農業社會，整個社群 會分工合作，用原始又自然的方法 炮製節慶美食。時至今天，懂得做 茶粿的人所剩無幾。在陽光依然明 媚的一天，幾位在東邊路住了幾十 年的婆婆一邊給我們示範，一邊說 她們的茶粿史。

5 山海食堂

Rice dumplings are festive treats. Hakka people make them for their families, and also use them as gifts. Preparations take quite a while: after threshing, the rice is milled in a dui kan; banana leaves are cut into round shapes; peanuts are toasted and crushed, and stuffed into the rice dough; finally, the dumplings are steamed in a big wok, heated with an open-fire stove.

In an agricultural society, everybody shares work. Making rice dumplings is part of collective celebration. Today, very few people still know how to make them. On a sunny day, elders living at Tung Pin Road gave a demonstration over oral history.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 6

古時元朗稱為「圓塱」，「圓」是 代表完整、豐滿的意思，而「塱」 是指江邊或湖邊的低窪地區。從字 面上了解，元朗在很久以前，已經 被群山所環抱，並且水源充足。陽 光充沛的東邊路，曾經遍山梯田。

The ancient name of Yuen Long means a round low-lying area by the river. The name suggests that the area is surrounded by mountains and well-irrigated. Powered by intense sunshine, ladder fields were once everywhere.

原本住在海南島的發嫂，年青時為 了逃避逼婚，離家見路就走，見海 就游，隻身來到香港。後來嫁了給 客家人，在東邊路一住就五十多年 了。從前耕種，返風落雨時不能下 田，發嫂就會在家中做茶粿。他們 家沒有碓坎，就到鄰居借用；而鄰 居也會反過來，借她家中的石磨磨 黃豆。製作過程中，四個子女都會 幫忙。

Auntie Fat originally lived in Hainan Island.

When she was young, to escape from an arranged marriage, she ran away from home and walked (and swam) all the way to Hong Kong. Eventually she married a Hakka husband, and has been living in Tung Pin Road for more than fifty years.

When she could not go to the fields in bad weather, she made rice dumplings at home. Without a dui kan in her place, she would use her neighbour’s; they would also borrow her mortar and pestle for grinding soy beans. When the family made rice dumplings, all four of her children gave a hand.

7 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 8

婆婆給我們示範繁多的步驟時，有 朋友問：「你們是怎樣學做茶粿的 呢？」七十多歲的池婆說：「一出 世就識㗎啦！」她小時候看着媽媽 做茶粿，觀察媽媽的手勢，自自然 然就學懂了。「邊會有人教？唔識 就俾人鬧點解唔識！」那天，當一 班茶粿新手都有點手足無措時，池 婆說得最多的就是：「啲嘢咪係咁 做囉！」

9 山海食堂

When the elders showed us the steps, someone asked, “How did you learn to make rice dumplings?” Grandma Chi said, “I knew ever since I was born!” As a child, she would observe her mother when she made dumplings, and learnt the methods on her own. “Who would have taught us? If we didn’t know, we would be scolded at!” On that day, the novices were all a little clumsy.

Grandma Chi kept saying, “That’s how it is done! ”—with a matter-of-factness in her tone that is untranslatable.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 10

明 愛 元 朗 鄉 郊 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Yuen Long Rural Community Development Project

11 山海食堂

Ramie Leaves Rice Dumplings

粗 葉 茶 粿

材 料 （約 20 個）

Ingredients（About 20 pcs）

糯米粉 | 900 克 粗葉 | 適量 片糖 | 600 克 花生 | 150 克 蕉葉 | 適量 水 | 8 公升

Sticky rice flour | 900 g Ramie leaves | a handful Brown slab sugar | 600 g Peanuts | 150 g Banana leaves | a handful Water | 8 L

做法

Preparations

1

把新鮮摘下的粗葉「出水」 及切碎，放進清水及片糖 煮成糖水備用。

2 把花生放進已燒紅的鑊中 炒至金黃色，並去掉花生 外的薄膜。 3 用玻璃瓶將花生搗碎，但 勿搗至過碎。

1

Blanch the fresh ramie leaves and chop them into small pieces. Melt the brown slab sugar. Set aside.

2 Fry the peanuts until golden, and peel the skins.

3 Crush the peanuts.

4 將糯米粉放進大盆（搓粉 盆）內。在糯米粉的中間 挖一個小洞，然後加入適 量的沸騰糖水，並用筷子 拌勻。之後，用手搓至漿 糊狀及至軟身。

4 Put the sticky rice flour into a large bowl. Pour an appropriate amount of boiling water in the centre of the sticky rice flour, and stir well with chopsticks. Knead the dough.

5 加入碎花生。

5 Add the crushed peanuts.

6 抽出小量的粉團並搓圓， 放在已剪裁好（圓形）及 刷了生油的蕉葉上。

6 Cut the banana leaves into circles and brush them with oil. Shape the dough into small balls, and place them on the banana leaves.

7 放在大鑊上蒸 13 分鐘。

7 Steam the rice dumplings in a wok for 13 minutes.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 12

圍頭 人 的 茶粿 Weitou Rice Dumplings

從 古 至 今， 世 界 各 地 的 人 不 斷 遷 徙，怎樣才算「本地人」，是一個 三言兩語說不清的問題。 香 港 原 居 民 之 中， 圍 頭 人 被 稱 為 「本地人」。相傳南宋初年，宋宗 公主南逃，獲鄧氏族人拯救，帶回 家中撫養，公主長大後，嫁給了這 位恩公的兒子。鄧氏在龍躍頭建基 立業，子孫繁衍，擴展成鄰近的五 圍六村。

Across time, people from around the world have been constantly migrating. There is never a straightforward answer to the question “who is local?”

Among the indigenous habitants of Hong Kong, the Weitou (walled village) people are called “Punti” (local). In the early Southern Song Dynasty, a young princess fled to the South and was rescued by the Tang clan. The little girl was raised by the Tangs, and subsequently married one of its descendants. The Tangs founded their walled villages in Lung Yeuk Tau, and spread to nearby areas over time.

資料來源 Sources : 香 港 旅 遊 發 展 局「 粉 嶺 龍 躍 頭 文 物 徑 」 Hong Kong Tourism Board“Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail”, http://www. discoverhongkong.com/tc/see-do/culture-heritage/historical-sites/chinese/lung-yeuk-tau-heritage-trail.jsp 古物古蹟辦事處 「龍躍頭文物徑」Antiquity and Monument Office“Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail”, http://www. amo.gov.hk/b5/trails_lung.php

13 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 14

種稻米的人對米食十分珍惜，將糯 米 物 盡 其 用 之 餘， 亦 對 之 充 滿 想 像。在龍躍頭有這樣的一個傳說： 曾經，有村民誤傷圍頭的龍脈，染 紅了土壤；家家戶戶就合力煮了一 大鍋糯米飯，用來鋪土止血，重治 風水。故事是否屬實，難以考究， 但可見村民對糯米的重視。

15 山海食堂

Rice farmers cherished their crops tremendously. For instance, sticky rice is not only used as a versatile ingredient, but also loaded with imagination. At Lung Yeuk Tau, it is said that sticky rice saved the Weitou people from a disaster: a villager once damaged a dragon vein by mistake and the earth turned red; the community then came together, and cured the wound with a big pot of sticky rice. The place’s fengshui was then restored. It is hard to prove whether this is a true story, but the cultural significance of sticky rice is undoubtable.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 16

明 愛 龍 躍 頭 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Lung Yeuk Tau Community Development Project

17 山海食堂

Little Guava Rice Dumplings

石 榴 仔

材 料 （約 20 個）

Ingredients（About 20pcs）

糯米粉 | 450 克 開邊綠豆 | 150 克 花生 | 75 克 蝦米 | 40 克 蔥 | 1條 鹽 | 適量 糖 | 適量 熱水 | 1/4 碗 生油 | 1 茶匙 蕉葉 | 適量

Sticky rice flour | 450 g Peeled mung beans | 150 g Peanuts | 75 g Dried shrimps | 40 g Green onions | 1 stalk Salt | to taste Sugar | to taste Hot water | 1/4 cup Oil | 1 tsp Banana leaves | a handful

做法

Preparations

1

綠豆浸水約 3 小時，隔去 水份，放在布上蒸 10 分鐘。

2 花生炒至褪衣，搗碎。蝦 米浸軟後切碎。蔥切碎。 3 蝦米、蔥及花生爆香，加 入適量鹽、糖調味，然後 加入綠豆一起炒。 4 糯米粉加入熱水，攪拌成 粉團，加凍水搓皮，搓至 粉皮光滑。 5 取適量粉糰於手中搓成小 窩形，放入餡料，並皺摺 收口。茶粿搽油後置於蕉 葉上，蒸熟。

1

Soak the peeled mung beans in water for around 3 hours.

Drain them and dry on a towel. Steam for 10 minutes.

2 Stir-fry the peanuts until the skins are peeled, then crush them. Soak the dried shrimps and dice them. Also dice the green onions.

3 Prepare the fillings: sauté the dried shrimps, green onions and peanuts. Season with salt and sugar. Add and fry the mung beans.

4 Mix sticky rice flour with hot water to make dough. Knead the dough with cold water until it is smooth.

5 Shape the dough into little balls and stuff the fillings in.

Place the rice dumplings on banana leaves and steam them.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 18

磨米歌 Grinding Rice Song

傳統圍頭歌謠 Traditional Weitou Song

搖捘捘磨幾籮 磨籮粘磨籮糯 磨籮做界糕 磨籮做茶粿 搖捘咿喔 磨米煮粥 煮茶煮飯就香噗噗

Rock and grind, a few baskets a basket of short-grain a basket of sticky rice Grind a basket for kai cakes a basket for rice dumplings Rock, e-oh grind the rice for congee make tea, cook rice fragrance in the air

Lyrics are translated literally into English for non-Chinese readers

19 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 20

除了圍頭鄧氏，住在龍躍頭的，還 有後來遷抵的客家人。好山好水中 曾經米香處處，村民主要種稻，到 了尾造會種糯米。耕作需要大量體 力勞動，受天氣影響收成不定，在 日出而作日入而歸的歲月裡，圍頭 人也好、客家人也好，都鍛鍊出堅 靭儉樸的美德。 到 了 1950、60 年 代， 聯 和 墟 的 工 商業活動興起，同時屯駐村中的軍 營亦徵用大量人手，村民看到了其 他謀生機會，農耕勞動力便交由廣 東沿岸遷移來港的新移民接棒。來 自五湖四海的人，如今都是「本地 人」了。 今天，誰是「移民」，誰是「本地 人」，是香港也是世界各地的熱話。 圍頭茶粿的故事，可以給我們甚麼 啟發？

21 山海食堂

Besides the Weitou Tang clan, Hakka people also settled in Lung Yeuk Tau. The place was once covered by paddyfields.

Villagers mostly planted fragrant rice, and finished each lunar year with sticky rice as the last crop. Farming was hard labour. Harvest relied on the weather.

Preseverance and frugality were virtues cultivated in the fields.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Luen Wo Market became an industrial and commercial hub. At the same time, the barracks in the area were also hiring. Villagers saw other ways to make a living. Farming was subsequently overtaken by new immigrants from the Guangdong area. All these immigrants are now “local.”

Today, the distinction between immigrants and locals is a hot topic in Hong Kong, as well as in other parts of the world. Can the story of the Weitou rice dumplings be an inspiration?

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 22

漁民 的 番 薯大 餐 Fishermen’s Sweet Potato Feast

「香港曾經是漁港」是人所共知的 說法。可是，除了旅遊發展局用作 標誌的帆船，我們對漁業的歷史還 有甚麼認知？

Hong Kong was once a fishing village. But what do we know about fishing, other than the image of the junk which is used for tourism promotion?

漁民的飲食，反映海上的生活。長 洲曾是香港四大漁港之一，當地漁 民當然吃魚，不過捕魚受季節、天 氣、水流、甚至海盜影響，魚穫每 每不穩定。所以每逢泊岸，漁民都 會大手買入既飽肚又便宜的乾糧， 以備不時之需，其一就是番薯。番 薯飽肚又耐存，帶在船上，出海食 用也方便。

Fishermen’s eating habits reflect their way of life. Cheung Chau was once among the four most active fishing areas in Hong Kong. Fish was of course a major part of the fishermen’s diet, but catches were inevitably affected by the season, weather, tides, currents and even pirates. Therefore, whenever their boats docked, fishermen would stock up on affordable food. Sweet potatoes, filling, durable and portable, were a favourite.

「從前窮，吃要便宜。到大陸配米 幾毫一斤，番薯一毫半一斤，比米 還要便宜。」長洲西灣漁民說，為 了多換幾斤番薯，他們會開艇到邊 境，用魚穫與蛇口的農民交換。「我 們叫『交橙』。那時，十元可以換 二十斤番薯了。」

“We were poor and had to eat cheap.

Sweet potatos cost only 15 cents a catty.

They were even cheaper than rice.” For better prices, they would drive their boats all the way to the border to trade with farmers from Shekou. “We called it kau chaan . At that time, you could get twenty catty of sweet potatoes for ten dollars.”

資料來源 Sources : 鍾 柏 欣，「 你 不 知 的 長 洲 昔 日 漁 民 生 活 」， 商 業 電 台，http://www.881903.com/Page/ZH-TW/News_ featuredetail.aspx?itemid=913913&csid=901_3843 李慧筠，「西灣漁民上岸記水上最美風景」，《香港 01》，2017 年 1 月 6 日，P009-013

23 山海食堂

特 別 鳴 謝 長 洲 西 灣 文 化 村 籌 委 會

Special thanks to Cheung Chau Sai Wan Cultural Village Committee

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 24

要出海的日子，漁民早上四、五時 起床，六時吃過早飯，有氣有力就 開始工作。大姐王說：「爸爸開罟 仔艇（圍網船），船上有十數人， 通常以阿爺或阿爸為首。要七、八 個男人才有力將罟扯上艇。」在清 晨和黃昏時，較多魚出來覓食，所 以 船 上 的 晚 飯 時 間 在 下 午 四、 五 時，吃完晚飯就可以放晚網。

25 山海食堂

Fishermen woke up at 4-ish in the morning, had breakfast at 6 am and then started their day. Sister Wong said, “Father drove a goo jai (purse seine) boat. The crew had over 10 people, usually led by grandpa or father. It took seven or eight men to draw the nets.”

Fish look for food at dawn and dusk.

Dinner was thus at tea-time, so the crew could go for another catch after meal.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 26

明 愛 長 洲 西 灣 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Cheung Chau Sai Wan Community Development Project

27 山海食堂

船上的生活習慣，跟陸上大有不同。有的是因為配合海上情況， 有的是因為禁忌—海上危險，漁民為求出入平安，都嚴守禁忌。 船的兩邊不是叫左右，而是叫大撈便（右）和細撈便（左）。大 撈便有神位，只有男性才可走近。細撈便有洗手間、煮食爐，婦 女會在那兒煮食。漁民在船上習慣席地盤膝進餐，到了陸上時， 也都選擇坐在地上進食。 Life on a boat was notably different from that on land. Sometimes, the difference owed marine conditions; sometimes, it was superstition.

Going to sea is always dangerous, so fishermen take taboos seriously.

The two sides of the boat are not called by right and left; they are known as dai lo bin (“big draw side,” right) and sai lo bin (“small draw side,” left). On the dai lo bin, there is an altar and only men could go there. The washroom and stove are on the sai lo bin, where women cook. Fishermen usually sit on the floor when they eat onboard. They keep the habit when they dine on land.

Sweet Potato and Leaf Mustard Stew

番 薯 煮 大 芥 菜

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

大芥菜 | 800 克 臘肉 | 200 克 番薯 | 800 克 鹽 | 適量

Leaf mustard | 800 g Chinese cured pork belly | 200 g Sweet potatoes | 800 g Salt | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

打橫切開大芥菜。

1

2 爆香臘肉，加入番薯和大 芥菜頭，然後加水，炆腍。 3 加入大芥菜葉，煮熟後加 入適量鹽調味。

Cut the leaf mustard.

2 Sauté the Chinese cured pork belly. Add the sweet potatoes and leaf mustard stems. Add water and stew until the ingredients become soft.

3 Add the leaf mustard leaves.

Season with salt when the dish is done.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 28

明 愛 長 洲 西 灣 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Cheung Chau Sai Wan Community Development Project

29 山海食堂

1960 年代，長洲的漁民開始用自己的舊船，靠在岸邊，搭建稱為 「棚仔」的居所。颱風漲潮時，就會到鄰近的西苑農場避水。1968 年，美國經濟援助協會和長洲人合力興建西灣「美經援村」，長 洲漁民便開始上岸去。三村陸續建成，到了 1970 年代，岸上的道 路、公共設施獲地方政府資助興建，漁民生活越趨改善。 In the 1960s, fishermen in Cheung Chau started to build squatters by docking their old boats by the shore. During typhoons or high tides, they stayed in the nearby Sai Yuen farm. In 1968, the American Cooperative for Assistance and Relief Everywhere collaborated with Cheung Chau residents and built Care Village in Sai Wan. Many fishermen then moved ashore. Three villages were built subsequently. In the 1970s, roads and public facilities were constructed with government subsidies. The fishermen’s living conditions gradually improved.

Sweet Potato Pancakes

番 薯 薄 罉

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

番薯 | 800 克 粘米粉 | 200 克 蔥、糖、鹽 | 適量 五香粉 | 適量 水 | 7碗

Sweet potatoes | 800 g Rice flour | 200 g Green onions, sugar, salt | to taste Five-spice powder | to taste Water | 7 bowls

做法

Preparations

1

番薯去皮、切條，蔥切成 小段。

2 將蔥加入少許糖、鹽及五 香粉炒香，然後加入番薯， 番薯炒至八成熟待用。 3 預備粉漿：粘米粉加水攪 拌均勻，加入少許糖、鹽 及油。 4 將所有材料加入粉漿，攪 均，下鑊煎香。

1

Cut the peeled sweet potatoes and green onions.

2 Sauté the g re e n onions with sugar, salt and fivespice powder. Add the sweet potatoes and stir-fry until they are 80% done.

3 Prepare the batter: Mix water and rice flour. Add a little bit of oil, sugar and salt.

4 Mix all the ingredients in the batter. Pour the mixture into an oiled saucepan to make pancakes.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 30

明 愛 長 洲 西 灣 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Cheung Chau Sai Wan Community Development Project

31 山海食堂

同時，因為捕魚海域限制，漁穫大減，不少艇戶需棄船上岸轉行。 上岸的漁民結束了漂泊的生活，可是漁民文化也隨着老一代的記 憶日漸褪色。有別於圍村，海上生活沒有固定的痕跡，當西灣沒 有「文化徑」，我們怎樣保存從前小漁港的歷史？ At the same time, because of marine restrictions, there was a drastic decline in fish catches. Many fishermen turned to other occupations.

Settling down on land, fishermen quit a drifting existence, but their culture also waned in the discolouring memories of elders. Unlike walled villages, life on sea does not leave tangible traces. While there is no heritage trail in Sai Wan, how do we capture the history of bygone fishing villages?

Sweet Potato Rice Dumplings

番 薯 湯 丸

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

番薯 | 糯米粉 片糖 | 花生碎

Sweet potatoes | 900 g Sticky rice flour | 60-90 g Golden slab sugar | to taste Crushed peanuts | to taste

900 克 | 60-90 克 適量 | 適量

Preparations

做法 1

番薯蒸熟後壓爛。

1

2 番薯加入糯米粉，揉成粉 糰，搓成小球。 3 先將湯丸用滾水焯一焯， 然後浸入冷水。將湯圓在 糖水煮熟，配以花生碎食 用。

Mash the steamed sweet potatoes.

2 M i x t h e m a s h e d swe e t potatoes with sticky rice flour to make dough. Shape it into little balls.

3 Blanch the rice balls in boiling water and then plunge them in cold water.

Melt sugar in boiling water.

Put the rice dumplings in and cook until they float. Serve with crushed peanuts.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 32

不時不食的海上鮮 Fresh from the Sea

我們都知道，全港最大的水塘是位 於西貢的萬宜水庫，卻未必聽說過 幾代漁民在水庫的前身—官門水 道飄浮聚落的故事。 官門水道直通太平洋，魚穫甚豐， 兩岸有爛泥灣、沙咀、黃竹灣等原 居民村，也有泊艇及捕魚作業的漁 民，這班漁民主要是官門人及糧船 灣人。1960 年代，香港經歷嚴重水 災，政府決定大興土木，封起水道 建萬宜水庫，治水的同時，也處理 供水問題。 政府一聲令下，本來在水道作業約 二百艘船的漁民統統被遷走。無法 再以海為家，許多漁民轉營其他行 業，有從事海鮮或酒家生意。有些 漁民對本業念念不忘，轉做魚排， 也有偶爾出海捉魚的，自給自足， 直至今天。

It is commonly known that the High Island Reservoir is the largest reservoir in Hong Kong. But have you heard about fishermen who lived at Kwun Mun Channel which once was there?

An outlet to the Pacific Ocean, Kung Mun Channel was a great place to catch fish.

Once it was flanked by villages at Lan Nai Wan, Sha Tsui and Wong Chuk Wan. It was also inhabited by fishermen who made a living there. These fishermen were mostly Kwun Mun and High Island people.

In the 1960s, there was a serious flood in Hong Kong. For floods management and improving water supply, the government decided to block the Channel and build the High Land Reservoir.

Around 200 boats in the Channel were then relocated. Not able to stay close to the sea anymore, many fishermen took up other jobs. Some became fishmongers; s o m e o p e n e d re s t a u ra n t s . S o m e fishermen wanted to stick to their trade.

They turned to fish farming, and go to sea once in a while.

資料來源 Sources : 漁 農 自 然 護 理 署 「 西 貢 海 域 的 漁 業 文 化 特 色 」 Agricultural, Fisheries and Conservation Department, “Characteristics and Fishermen’s Culture in Sai Kung”http://www.hktraveler.com/HKFish_SK2013/edu_ characteristic.htm

33 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 34

住在對面海萬宜漁村的棠哥是「原 漁民」，戴上勞工手套的他教大家 認識不同的海魚，更即場傳授劏魚 技法。

Brother Tong, who now lives in Man Yee Fisherman Village, is an “indigenous fisherman.” He showed us how to identify different fish species, and how to CUT one.

How to cut fish

劏魚步驟 1 魚頭放近雙手位置。

1 Place the fish head close to your hand.

2 反起魚鰓。

2 Lift the gills.

3 刀尾放在魚鰓近右邊位置。

3 Place the tip of the knife by the right side of the gills.

4 刀身壓下去，沿着魚邊切。 5 把鰓清理出來。 小貼士：新鮮魚不要即時沖洗，煮 食之前才洗，可以保存鮮味。 「好容易㗎啫！」說來容易，那天的 參加者大部份都未試過親手劏魚， 大家都說：「好驚呀！」有人把魚 放錯了位置，下刀也就歪了，也有 人不知魚鰓在哪裡，結果切開了魚 嘴，大家其實也分不清魚鰓和其他 內臟，最後很多魚鰓沒有刮乾淨。

35 山海食堂

4 Press the knife and cut along the side of the fish.

5 Remove the gills.

Tips: Do not rinse fresh fish. Do so only before cooking to preserve the freshness.

“It’s so easy!” But it is easier said than done.

Most of the participants have never cut fish before. Everybody was screaming, “It’s so scary!” Some put the fish in the wrong direction, and cut in the wrong place.

Some did not know where the gills were, and slit the fish mouth. Most could not tell the gills apart from other organs. At the end, the gills were not really removed.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 36

Recipe provided by“Uncovering the Submerged History of Fishermen Havens along the High Island Straits”Sharing Group of Fishermen Oral History and Sharing Group of Women's Good Living 西 貢 對 面 海 ﹁ 水 下 漁 灣 的 故 事 ﹂ 漁 民 歷 史 分 享 小 組 及 婦 女 自 主 生 活 小 組 提 供 食 譜 資 料

37 山海食堂

Chi Jai Fish and Glass Noodles Soup

池 仔 魚 粉 絲 湯

「大一蘇眉有隻髻，大二石斑海底養，大三雞魚恰眼瞓……」漁民 會把比較值錢的魚拿去賣，自己吃的通常是「平價魚」，今次我 們有機會，吃到消費者或者不會買的，但其實時令鮮甜的漁民海 上鮮。第 34 頁照片中，身上有黃線的是金邊 ，加點白胡椒、薑、 蔥，「鹹鮮」蒸熟，灑上熱油，味道鮮美，肉質細滑，有些像家 中常吃的黃花魚。左邊的是池仔魚，可以煎又可以煮湯。下頁的 是藍䱽，煎到金黃香脆，原味最好吃。 “Su Mei (humphead wrasse) has a bun on its head. Garoupa is raised at the sea floor. Chicken Fish is sleepy all the time…” Fishermen usually sell betterpriced fish at the market, and keep “cheap fish” for themselves. Rarely bought by consumers, the fish we tried was all fishermen’s choice. In the photograph on p. 34, those with golden ribbons are yellow-banded scads.

They can be steamed with a pinch of white pepper, ginger and spring onion. The fish on the left is Chi Jai, and can be pan-fried or cooked in soup.

The one on the next page is a blue butterfish, crunchily pan-fried. 材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

池仔魚 | 750 克 薑 | 360 克 蒜子 | 5 顆 粉絲 | 1 包 蔥 | 適量 冬菜 | 適量

Chi jai fish | 750 g Ginger | 360 g Shallot | 5 cloves Glass noodles | 1 pack Green onions | to taste Tianjin preserved vegetable | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

用鹽醃池仔魚約 30 分鐘。

2 下鑊煎池仔魚至金黃色， 盛起備用。 3 薑 絲、 蒜 頭、 冬 菜 炒 香， 加入煎香的池仔魚，落水 煮滾。 4 加入預先浸好的粉絲，煮 熟。最後加入蔥段。

1

Marinate the Chi Jai fish in salt for about 30 minutes.

2 Pan-fry the fish until golden.

Put aside.

3 Sauté the ginger, garlic and Tianjin preserved vegetable.

Add the fish and water. Bring to a boil.

4 Add the soaked glass noodles.

Add green onions when the dish done.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 38

Recipe provided by“Uncovering the Submerged History of Fishermen Havens along the High Island Straits”Sharing Group of Fishermen Oral History and Sharing Group of Women's Good living 西 貢 對 面 海 ﹁ 水 下 漁 灣 的 故 事 ﹂ 漁 民 歷 史 分 享 小 組 及 婦 女 自 主 生 活 小 組 提 供 食 譜 資 料

39 山海食堂

原來，鮮魚三味的魚都是西貢的漁民叔叔嬸嬸從街市買回來的。 他們本來打算給我們煮泥 ，怎料前一天風大，沒有出海打魚。 「漁民總是看天做人，今日唔知聽日事。」棠哥如是說。對於昔 日官門魚灣消逝，揚帆出海的日子不再，皮膚黝黑、一身健壯的 他笑道 :「總得向前看。」 Surprisingly, these fish were actually brought from the market. The fishermen originally intended to serve rabbitfish, but the day before was windy and they did not go fishing. “Our lives depend on the weather. We never know what will happen tomorrow,” said Brother Tong. Although their days on the sea were long gone with the closure of Kwun Mun Channel, he is still strong and suntanned. “One just have to look forward,” he said with a bright grin.

Pan-fried Blue Butterfish

煎 鹹 鮮 藍 鯧 魚

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

藍鯧魚 | 750 克 薑 | 60 克 蔥 | 1扎

Blue butterfish | 750 g Ginger | 60 g Green onions | 1 bunch

做法

Preparations

1

用大量鹽醃藍鯧魚約兩 小時。

2 燒熱油鑊，放藍鯧 魚，兩 面煎至金黃色。 3 加入薑絲、蔥段，再加少 許水，合蓋稍煮即可。

1

Marinate the blue butterfish in a large amount of salt for about 2 hours.

2 Pan-fry the fish in a hot pan until both sides turn golden.

3 Add ginger and garlic. Cover and cook with a little bit of water.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 40

婆婆 嫲 嫲 的石 磨 Grandma’s Mill

薄扶林村毗鄰多座屋苑高樓，是港 島區最早的原居民村之一。17 世紀 清朝康熙年間，港島內陸沿海居民 遷至，居民務農養畜，定居下來， 慢慢發展村落。其後，在那裡落腳 的 還 有 客 家 移 民、1950 年 代 從 內 地來港的難民。牛奶公司也曾經在 那裡營運，全盛時期，村中共有約 六十戶小商舖，茶檔、理髮店、藥 材舖、士多、麻雀館，樣樣齊備。 1980 年 代 牧 場 結 業 後， 薄 扶 林 村 的發展放緩，有村民搬走，但也有 新 住 戶 遷 入。 現 時， 村 內 人 口 約 三千人。 坐擁豐富歷史和文化內涵的薄扶林 村， 於 2013 年 獲 列 入 世 界 文 物 建 築基金會公布的監察名單。村內有 多種歷史文化遺產，包括傳統村莊 房子、村莊設置、李靈仙姐塔、中 秋舞火龍……還有幾個藏着故事的 古老石磨。

Next to a number of modern housing estates, Pokfulam Village is one of the earliest settlements in Hong Kong. In the 17th century during the Kangxi era in the Qing Dynasty, people who previously lived along the coast of Hong Kong Island settled there. They farmed and raised livestock, and a village eventually grew. Subsequently, Hakka migrants and refugees coming from China in the 1950s also built their homes in the area. The village expanded rapidly when the Dairy Farm was up and running. Once there were almost sixty little shops, including tea houses, barber shops, herbal shops, stores, mahjong parlours, etc. In the 1980s, when the Dairy Farm ceased operation, development slowed down. Some villagers moved out. New comers moved in. Today, the village has a population of around 3,000.

With a wealth of history and heritage, Pokfulam Village was enlisted on the watch list of the World Monuments Fund in 2013.

Among traditional village houses and rural equipment, Li Ling Shin Che Pagoda, the Mid-Autumn fire dragon dance, there are a few heirloom mills.

資料來源 Sources : 香港中文大學文化及宗教研究系「太古樓與薄扶林區歷史發展」， https://goo.gl/cRJs74 陳珍「薄扶林村，活着的歷史博物館」，獨立媒體，http://www.inmediahk.net/node/1014980

41 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 42

這些石磨世代相傳，曾經是家庭煮 食或者維生的寶貝工具，不過隨着 生活和經濟模式的轉變，破舊失修 的 石 磨 已 不 能 再 用。 說 起 這 些 石 磨，村民都會憶述起家中長輩，以 怎樣的手勢，磨出種種美味。 借「山海食堂」的機緣，我們請來 老字號麥榮記的師傅，復修了其中 一個荒廢了三十多年的石磨。現時 63 歲 的 麥 師 傅 一 眼 就 認 出， 這 是 他 13 歲學師時製作的石磨。隨着電 動磨的興起，這十年來，他只造過 三個石磨。跟一年保養的攪拌器不 同，從前的石磨是用一生一世、用 足幾代的。 當石磨由它的「傳人」袁先生再次 轉動時，袁老太和他的侄兒站在他 身後佇足微笑。

These stone mills once fed families in every sense. Villagers used them to cook and make a living, but as the way of life changed, the idled mills were in a state of disrepair. However, they still bring to mind memories of beloved elders—when an alchemy of taste was conjured by their hand gestures.

We took the opportunity to repair a stone mill, unused for thirty years, with the help of a master mason from MAK Wing-kee.

The 63-year-old Si Fu could immediately tell that it was a mill he made when he was an apprentice at age 13. As more and more people switched to electrical mills, he has only made three stone mills over the past ten years. Unlike blenders with only oneyear warranty, a stone mill is meant to be used for a lifetime, across generations.

When the mill was brought to life again by its successor Mr YUEN, old Mrs YUEN and his nephew watched with a smile.

43 山海食堂

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 44

粒粒黃豆，在石磨的迴轉中，成為 一杯又一杯載着年代、生活、人情 和價值觀的溫熱豆漿。薄扶林村村 民還找來了一個以前用來賣豆漿的 不銹鋼桶子，上面寫着「大杯一元， 小杯五毫」。一元幾角的小生意不 多賺，真材實料地養活過一代人。

45 山海食堂

In the rotation of the mill, soy beans turned into silky soy milk, rich in flavours of time, life, humanity and values. Villagers also shared a classic stainless-steel flask which villagers once used to make a living. “$1 for a big glass. 50 cents for small.” The scribbles are telling of the days when families were raised not by profiteering but honest labour.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 46

明 愛 薄 扶 林 社 區 發 展 計 劃 提 供 食 譜 資 料

Recipe provided by Caritas Pokfulam Community Development Project

47 山海食堂

Bean Dregs Cakes

豆 渣 餅

以石磨研磨的豆水質感細滑軟綿，豆水隔去作豆漿後，留下的豆 渣可製成美味的豆渣餅。 Mill-ground beans are noted for their silk-like texture. The bean dregs left from the soy milk can be used to make delicious bean dregs cakes.

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

豆渣 | 2 大碗 粘米粉 | 1 小碗 雞蛋 | 4 隻 鹽 | 適量

Bean dregs | 2 cups Rice flour | 1 cup 1 Egg | 4 Salt | to taste

1

1

1

視乎豆渣水份含量而定

Preparations

做法 1

Depends on how moist the bean drags are

將所有材料混合，分小份， 做成餅形。

1

M i x a l l t h e i n g re d i e nt s well. Shape them into little pancakes.

2 下油鑊煎熟。 2 Pan-fry the pancakes.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 48

袁家是大家庭。袁老太年輕時與奶 奶同住，袁老太外出工作，奶奶就 用 石 磨 磨 米 成 漿， 加 入 蔬 菜 和 肉 絲，製成「 鑊邊」給家中孩子作 午餐。袁老太一直很感謝奶奶替她 照顧子女，否則她便不能在政府工 作。現在，她和媳婦也像朋友。「做 人最緊要快樂！」袁老太笑着說。

49 山海食堂

The YUENs are a big family. When old Mrs YUEN was young, she lived with her mother-in-law. When she left home for work, grandma YUEN made Lat Wok Bin for her children. Old Mrs YUEN has always been grateful to grandma; without her help she would not be able to find employment at the government. Now, she takes her daughter-in-law as a friend. “Happiness is the most important,” she said.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 50

51 山海食堂

Lat Wok Bin

鑊 邊

鑊邊也叫「鑊邊粥」，湯料沒有特定材料，以肉類和時令菜蔬 瓜果為主，也可加入其他材料增加風味，以下為參考用料。 Lat Wok Bin is also called “Wok Bin Congee.” It can be made of all kinds of ingredients, typically meat and seasonal vegetables. The ingredients below are for reference.

材 料 （10-15 人份量）

ingredients（10-15 servings）

米漿 粘米粉 | 600 克 水 | 500 毫升 鹽 | 適量

Rice milk Rice flour | 600 g Water | 500 ml Salt | a little

湯料 蝦米 | 75 克 白蘿蔔絲 | 1.2 公斤 瘦肉絲 | 600 克 唐芹 | 切粒 1 碗 蒜仔 | 切粒 1 碗 冬菜 | 適量

For The Soup Dried shrimps | 75 g Shredded Radish | 1.2 kg Lean pork | shreaded | 600 g Chinese celery | diced | 1 cup Shallots | diced | 1 cup Tianjin preserved vegetable | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

爆香蝦米、白蘿蔔絲、瘦肉 絲、冬菜，加入水，煮滾。

2 將米漿沿大鑊邊 下，待 米漿半熟時剷下大鑊中， 與湯料一同煮熟。留意米 漿不宜調得過稀。 3 加入唐芹粒、蒜仔粒及以 適量鹽調味。

1

Sauté the dried shrimps, shredded radish, shreaded pork and Tianjin preserved vegetable. Add water and bring to a boil.

2 Slide the rice milk down along the sides of the wok. When the rice milk is half cooked, scoop it to the wok and cook with other ingredients. Note that the rice milk cannot be too watery.

3 Add the Chinese celery and shallots. Season with a pinch of salt.

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 52

在沒有政府和地產商的管理底下， 薄扶林一直都要自行處理很多基本 的問題。「村內的事村民做！」一 班喜愛村落生活、珍惜自然環境的 村民，獲兩位慷慨的地主支持，成 立了「菜園地」。那裡除了設置了 今次復修好的石磨，還有村民一起 蓋的大灶和土窰。大家種瓜種菜， 閒時一家一餸，一起分享。冬天收 割了白蘿蔔，就齊齊動手做賀年蘿 蔔糕。 朱耀光老師說：「當人跟土地和鄰 舍形成一個命運共同體，『鄉』， 就出現了。」

53 山海食堂

Not managed by the government nor private developers, Pokfulam Village has been taking care of its basic infrastructure for a long time. “For the village, by villagers!” A devoted group of villagers are supported by two generous landowners, and founded "Organic Farm." Besides the repaired mill, there are also a DIY brick stove and a clay oven. Villagers grow vegetables and share meals together. In winter, they plant radish and make radish cakes for Chinese New Year.

Dr CHU Yiu-kwong said, “When people, land and the neighbourhood form a community, a hometown comes into being.”

Eating Among Mountains and Seas 54

心の料理

Treats from the Heart

2017 年 1 月，新聞報導說紐約有一 名 12 歲的男童，持槍指嚇一位女同 學，原因是她拒絕給他一塊快餐炸 雞。 快餐炸雞跟持槍指嚇，好像風馬牛 不相及，但在這件真人真事中，我 們好像看見很多當代社會問題的表 徵─不健康的快餐、肉食工廠的 生產模式、槍械暴力─這些都跟 人們急於滿足自己的私利，而妄顧 過程中的人和事有關。 這 些 問 題 的 解 藥， 可 不 可 以 在 用 「心」的食物文化中找到？

In January 2017, a disheartening incident made headlines: A 12-year-old in New York pointed a gun to his classmate, because she refused to give him a piece of chicken nugget.

One could barely imagine chicken nuggets having anything to do with guns. But in this true story, their surrealist association points to something symptomatic of contemporary society: junk food, meat factory, gun violence… are all plagued by a thoughtlessness that cares for little other than immediate gratification of desires.

Can this inconsiderate illness be cured by treats from the heart?

項目伙伴 Programme Partners: Roslisham ISMAIL aka Ise + 青江覚峰 Kakuho AOE

Treats from the Heart 58

不一 樣 的 藍 A Different Kind of Blue

離鄉別井十多年後，馬來西亞藝術 家 Roslisham ISMAIL aka Ise 回 到 在 吉 蘭 丹 的 老 家。 還 住 在 那 裡 的 家 人 只 有 他 祖 母。 祖 母 每 天 為 Ise 煮 菜， 讓 他 嚐 到 一 道 又 一 道 的 傳 統 菜 餚。 其 中 他 發 現 祖 母 的 Nasi Kerabu， 顏 色 跟 在 餐 廳 吃 到 的 大 大 不 同， 原 來 祖 母 還 沿 用 傳 統 做 法，用蝶豆花把米飯染成蔚藍。街 上一般的食市為求方便，早已轉用 食用色素。

59 心の料理

After leaving home for more than a decade, Malaysian artist Roslisham ISMAIL aka Ise returned to Kelantan. His only relative there was his grandmother, who cooked for him everyday. Tasting one hometown dish after another, Ise discovered a different colour in his grandmother’s nasi kerabu. She was still cooking this classic dish in the traditional way by dying the rice blue with butterfly pea flowers, while for convenience’s sake, restaurants have mostly switched to artificial colouring.

Treats from the Heart 60

Ise 想： 怎 樣 才 可 令 這 些 傳 統 不 致 失傳？於是他立志要跟祖母和長輩 學習家鄉菜，花了一年半時間，學 了差不多四十道菜式，身為藝術家 的他，更將菜譜畫成畫冊，將家鄉 食譜發揚光大。 學煮菜期間，Ise 用心與長輩相處， 除了一起做菜，也照顧他們的各式 生活需要 ─陪他們看醫生、幫忙 買東西、添置家中電器……

Ise 說 他 的 藝 術 不 止 繪 畫， 也 不 是 烹飪，是人與人之間的連繫。

Ise thought: Wouldn’t it be an irreversible loss of heritage? He then made up his mind to learn cooking from his grandma and other elders. After one and a half years, around forty heirloom recipes were passed onto him. The artists turned the recipes into drawings, so their traditional flavours could find their way to kitchens at home and afar.

The cooking lessons were also quality time spent together. Ise took good care of the elders. He accompanied them to the doctor, helped run errands, brought them new appliances…

Ise said his art was not only the drawings nor cooking. It is human connection.

61 心の料理

Treats from the Heart 62

63 心の料理

Nasi Kerabu

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

藍飯 米 | 1 公斤 蝶豆花 | 20 片 斑蘭葉 | 2 片 泰國青檸葉 | 3 片

Blue Rice Rice | 1 kg Butterfly pea flowers | 20 pcs Pandan leaves | 2 pcs Kaffir lime leaves | 3 pcs

椰子參巴 椰子 | 磨成絲 | 1 片 薑 | 切薄片 | 1 片 香茅 | 切薄片 | 2 根 紅蔥頭 | 切開 | 5 片 蒜頭 | 切薄片 | 2 瓣 黑胡椒粒 | 10 粒 棕櫚糖 | 40 克 鹽和糖 | 適量

Sambal Coconut Coconut | grated | 1 pc Ginger | thinly sliced | 1 pc Lemongrass | thinly sliced | 2 stalks Shallots | quartered | 5 pcs Garlic | thinly sliced | 2 cloves Black peppercorns | 10 pcs Palm sugar | 40 g Salt and sugar | to taste

沙甸魚參巴 沙甸魚或馬鯖魚 | 500 克 鹽 | 2 茶匙

Sambal Fish Sardines or horse mackerel | 500 g Salt | 2 tsp

參巴辣椒醬 椰奶 | 500 毫升 紅蔥頭 | 切薄片 | 8 片 蒜頭 | 切薄片 | 4 瓣 薑 | 切薄片 | 1 片 香茅 | 切薄片 | 2 根 羅望子乾 | 2 粒 辣椒乾 | 15 克 肉桂枝 | 4 粒 丁香 | 8 粒 八角 | 4 粒 豆蔻粉 | 5 茶匙 鹽和糖 | 適量

Sambal Tumis Coconut milk | 500 ml Shallots | thinly sliced | 8 pcs Garlic | thinly sliced | 4 cloves Ginger | thinly sliced | 1 pc Lemongrass | crushed | 2 stalks Dried tamarind | 2 pcs Dried chilies | 15 g Cinnamon sticks | 4 pcs Cloves | 8 pcs Star anises | 4 pcs Cardamom | 5 tsp Salt and sugar | to taste

沙律 豆角 | 切 粒 青瓜 | 切 粒 芽菜

Salad Long beans | finely sliced Cucumbers | finely sliced Bean sprouts

其他 炸魚餅 咸蛋 | 切 半

Others Fish crackers Salted duck eggs | halved

Treats from the Heart 64

65 心の料理

Nasi Kerabu

做法

Preparations

藍飯

Blue Rice

1

蝶 豆 花 壓 碎， 放 入 1 公 升 水中。隔走蝶豆花，留下 藍水備用。

1

2

洗米。加入藍水、打了結 的斑蘭葉、泰國青檸葉， 煮飯。

2 Wash the rice. Cook with the dyed water and knotted pandan and kaffir lime leaves.

沙甸魚參巴 1

在鹽水中將魚煮熟。

Mash the butterfly pea flowers in 1L of water. Strain and keep the dyed water.

Sambal Fish 1

Cook the fish in salted water.

2 隔去水，將魚煎香。 去骨。

2 Drain the fish and pan-fry until crispy. Debone.

椰子參巴

Sambal Coconut

1

不落油，慢炒椰絲，至金 黃色。

2 加入薑片、香茅片、紅蔥 頭、蒜頭、黑胡椒粒，中 火續炒 2 至 3 分鐘。 3 將炒過的材料和棕櫚糖 磨幼。 4 加入適量鹽、糖調味。

1

Slowly fry the grated coconut (without oil) until golden.

2 Add the ginger, lemongrass, shallots, garlic and black peppercorns and continue to fry for 2 to 3 minutes on medium heat.

3 Grind the fried ingredients and palm sugar into a fine mixture.

4 Season with salt and sugar.

Treats from the Heart 66

67 心の料理

Nasi Kerabu

做法

Preparations

參巴辣椒醬

Sambal Tumis

1

椰奶慢煮，間中攪拌。

2 爆香紅蔥頭、蒜片、薑片、 各種香料。加入辣椒。 3 炒過的材料和羅望子乾加 入熱椰奶。加入適量鹽、 糖調味。 4 中火煮 30 分鐘至一定濃 度，途中一直攪拌。如太 濃，可加水稀釋。

1

Simmer the coconut milk.

Stir occasionally.

2 Sauté the shallots, garlic, ginger and spices. Add chilies.

3 Add the fried ingredients and dried tamarind to the hot coconut milk. Season with sugar and salt.

4 Cook for 30 mins on medium h e a t u n t i l t h e m i x t u re reaches a consistency. Keep stirring. If it is too thick, add water.

Treats from the Heart 68

上一次跟家人一起過周末，是甚麼時候？ 有沒有跟長輩學過做菜？ 想過花點時間，記一記你的家傳食譜嗎？ When was the last time you spent a weekend with your family?

Did you ever learn cooking from your elders?

Would you take the time to record your family recipes?

71 心の料理

by Dora

Beef Patty with Pickles and Water Chestnuts

蔥 菜 馬 蹄 牛 肉 餅

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 「我記得這是小時候常吃的一味菜式，因為要人手把肉塊剁成免 治肉，母親說手痠已很久沒弄了，所以自己也很久沒吃這味菜了。 於是我選了這味菜式，趁着還有力氣剁肉，讓母親可以再次嚐嚐 肉餅的滋味。」 “This is a dish from childhood. The meat is minced by chopping. Mother says it is too tiring and has not been making it for ages. I haven’t had it for a long time already. I am choosing this dish today—when I still have the strength to hand-chop the meat, I hope mother can taste it again.” 材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

鮮牛肉 | 400 克 馬蹄 | 切碎 | 8 顆 沖菜 | 切碎 | 1 ¼ 湯匙 蔥 | 切段 | 1 ¼ 湯匙 粟粉 | 2½ 湯匙

Fresh beef | 400 g Water Chestnuts | diced | 8 Soy-soaked turnip | chopped | 1¼ tbsp Green onions | chopped | 1¼ tbsp Corn starch | 2½ tbsp

做法

Preparations

1

先浸沖菜半小時。

2 牛肉剁碎。牛肉加入馬蹄、 沖菜，攪拌均勻。需要時 可加水。 3 將牛肉餅鋪在扁平容器上。 4 牛肉餅蒸熟。 5 預備醬汁：倒出蒸好肉餅 的牛肉汁，加入混了水的 粟粉。 6 將醬汁倒在牛肉餅上，放 上蔥花裝飾。

1

Soak the soy-soaked turnip for 30 mins.

2 Mince the beef by chopping.

Mix the beef with diced water chestnuts and soy-soaked turnip. Add water if needed.

3 Place the beef patty in a flat tray.

4 Steam the patty.

5 Make sauce by thickening the extra juice from the steamed patty with cornstarch.

6 Pour the sauce over the beef patty. Garnish with green onions.

Treats from the Heart 72

73 心の料理

by 林燕 LAM Yin

Hometown Savoury Rice Dumplings

家 鄉 咸 湯 圓

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 「咸湯圓，嚐到家庭的甜和愛。」 “Savoury rice dumplings — the sweet taste of home and love.” 材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

白蘿蔔 | 300 克 旺菜 | 300 克 臘腸 | 90 克 蝦米 | 35 克 鯪魚肉 | 250 克 糯米粉 | 300 克 薑 | 適量 鹽、胡椒 | 適量

Radish | 300 g Chinese cabbage | 300 g Chinese sausage | 90 g Dried shrimp | 35 g Minced dace fish | 250 g Sticky rice flour | 300 g Ginger | to taste Pepper, salt | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

白蘿蔔、旺菜、臘腸切粒。

2 臘腸、蝦米浸水。

1

Dice the radish, Chinese cabbage and Chinese sausage.

3 鯪魚肉煎熟，切成容易入 口的小份。

2 Soak the Chinese sausage and dried shrimp.

4 預備湯圓：麵粉加水，揉 成麵糰。取適量麵糰於手 中搓成小球。

3 Sauté the minced dace fish and cut into bite-size pieces.

5 將湯圓以外的所有材料放 進一鍋水中，煲滾。 6 加 入 湯 圓， 再 煮 5 分 鐘。 加入適量鹽、胡椒調味。

4 Prepare rice dumplings: mix sticky rice flour with water to make dough. Shape it into little balls.

5 Bring a pot of water to boil.

Add all ingredients except the rice dumplings to make soup.

6 Cook the rice dumplings in the soup for 5 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper.

Treats from the Heart 74

75 心の料理

by Wilson

Fish Dumplings

魚 肉 餃 子

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 「我在一本筆記，記下了媽媽跟我說過好幾次的話：你要在魚和蝦 肉中加雞蛋，順着一個方向，只是一個方向攪拌。到質地黏黏時， 你就會知道。感覺，注意。你會知道。站在我的廚房，嗅着，攪着， 再嗅一嗅，在這個動作中，我的記憶來來回回。」 “Somewhere in a notebook I had written down what mother on many occasions relayed to me: ‘You will need to crack an egg into the fish and shrimp filling, stir in one direction, and in one direction only, best with your bare hand. When the texture reaches a bouncy consistency, you will know that the filling is ready. But before then, keep on stirring, feeling, be patient and trust your hands. You will know.’ I stand in my kitchen years later stirring, feeling, making my own fish dumplings for the very first time. I am brought back and forth between the memories of the past where a young mother makes fish dumplings for her son, and now in the present, a much older me, an adult, finally in this very act of making dumplings for myself.”

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

細鮮蝦 | 已剝殼 | 6 芹菜 | 100 克 芫荽 | 80 克 鯪魚肉 | 無調味 | 400 克 蛋 | 1隻 餃子皮 | 40 麵粉 | 適量 白胡椒 | 2-3 小撮 魚露 | 2-4 湯匙 麻油（魚肉餡）| 2-4 湯匙 麻油（汁）| 1 湯匙 豉油 | 1-2 湯匙 蒜頭 | 3-5 瓣 辣椒 | 適量

Small fresh shrimp | peeled | 6 Chinese celery | 100 g Coriander | 80 g Minced dace fish | not flavored | 400 g Egg | 1 Dumpling wrappers | round | 40 Flour | a handful White pepper | 2-3 pinches Fish sauce | 2-4 tbsp Sesame oil | 2-4 tbsp (for fish mix) Sesame oil | 1 tbsp (for dipping sauce) Soy sauce | 1-2 tbsp Garlic | 3-5 cloves Chili | to taste

Treats from the Heart 76

77 心の料理

by Wilson

Fish Dumplings

魚 肉 餃 子

做法 1

蝦、芹菜、芫荽切碎，加 入鯪魚肉中，攪拌均勻。

2 在鯪魚肉中加入一隻蛋， 再以適量白胡椒、魚露、 麻油調味。 3 向同一方向攪拌鯪魚肉， 直至鯪魚肉黏黏的。 4 包餃子：將適量魚肉放在 餃子皮中間，用水將餃子 皮邊沾濕，緊壓兩邊邊緣， 封好，包成一隻餃子。 5 將餃子在滾水中煮熟。 6 餃子開始浮起時，倒入一 碗冷水。 7 餃子再次浮起，代表已熟 透，可以上碟。上碟前也 可以先煎一下餃子。 8 將切碎的芫荽、辣椒、蒜 頭、豉油、麻油攪拌，製 成蘸醬。

Preparations 1

Dice the shrimp, Chinese celery and coriander. Mix with minced dace fish.

2 Add an egg to the mixture.

Season with white pepper, fish sauce and sesame oil.

3 Stir the mixture in one direction until it reaches a bouncy consistency.

4 Prepare dumplings: Put fish mixture in the middle of a dumpling wrapper. Wet its edges and seal the dumpling by pressing the edges firmly together.

5 Cook the dumplings in boiling water.

6 When the dumplings start to float, pour in a bowl of cold water.

7 When the dumplings float again, they are ready to serve.

Pan fry the dumplings for an extra crunch.

8 Make dipping sauce by mixing chopped coriander, chili, garlic, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Treats from the Heart 78

79 心の料理

Green Onion Ginger Crab

by Vivian

薑 蔥 炒 蟹

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 「薑蔥炒蟹是爸爸的招牌菜。小時候，他經常做這道菜，味道好得 不得了。爸爸 14 年前過身了，我從來沒有機會好好跟他學煮這道 菜。他曾經概括地告訴我幾個步驟。我憑着美味的回憶，把菜譜 弄了出來。」 “Green Onion Ginger Crab is my dad’s signature dish. He cooked it all the time when I was kid and it tasted so good! My dad passed away 14 years ago. I never had chance to learn the dish from him properly. He did briefly mention some steps to me before. I somehow figured out the steps/recipe, basing on my favorite memory of my dad’s dish.”

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

蟹 | 900 克（2-3 隻） 薑 | 切片 | 6 片 蒜頭 | 切碎 | 2 至 3 瓣 蔥 | 切段 | 1 束 粟粉 | 2 茶匙 玫瑰露 | 2 茶匙 蠔油 | 1 茶匙 糖 | ¼ 茶匙 鹽 | 茶匙

Crabs | 900g (2-3 pcs) Ginger | sliced | 6 big pcs Garlic | diced | 2-3 gloves Green onions | chopped | 1 bunch Cornstarch | 2 tsp Rose wine | 2 tsp Oyster sauce | 1 tsp Sugar | ¼ tsp Salt | tsp

Treats from the Heart 80

by Vivian

Green Onion Ginger Crab

薑 蔥 炒 蟹

做法 1

蟹洗淨，切件。稍微敲裂 蟹腳。

Preparations 1

Clean the crabs and cut them into pieces. Crack the crab legs.

2 在蟹上灑上一層粟粉。 2 Coat the crab with cornstarch.

3 薑片爆香後，加入蟹、蒜 頭一起炒。盛起備用。 4 部分蔥段、蒜頭爆香後， 加入剛才的蟹再炒。加入 玫瑰露。 5 粟粉加入冷水攪混。 6 粟粉水倒入鑊中，加入其 餘蔥段，繼續炒。 7 加入蠔油，繼續炒，直至 蟹熟透。

3 Sauté the ginger. Add and fry the crab and garlic. Put aside.

4 Sauté some green onions and garlic. Put the crab back in. Add rose wine. Season with sugar and salt.

5 Mix cornstarch with cold water.

6 Pour the cornstarch mixture into the wok. Add green onions. Keep stir-frying.

7 Add oyster sauce. Keep stirfrying until cooked.

81 心の料理

Treats from the Heart 82

三心 料 理 Cooking with Three Minds

青江 覚峰出生於東京的佛寺。2000 年左右，他在美國加州唸工商管理 碩士，那時他埋頭做網上生意，肚 子餓時就隨便抓一把即食麥片。然 後，911 發 生 了。 覚 峰 さ ん 決 定 回 到日本，重新認識佛教。 現在，他是一位料理僧，透過烹飪 弘揚佛法。佛教對他來說，是一種 宗教，也是一種生活哲學。 笑 容 可 親 的 覚 峰 さ ん 常 常 說「no problem」。他總能以簡單的食材， 煮出教人「ヘ」（hare）一聲的美 味。這些讓人平安樂道的美食，原 來藏着「三心」。

Kakuho AOE was born in a Buddhist temple in Tokyo. Around the turn of the millennium, he was doing an MBA in California. At that time, he was busily running an online business, and would mindlessly grab a handful of cereals whenever he felt hungry. Then 911 happened. Rethinking his priorities, Kaku-san returned to Japan and picked up Buddhism.

Now he is a cooking monk and spreads Buddhist teachings through food. To him, Buddhism is a religion and also a philosophy of life.

The adorable monk always says “No problem.” His awe-inspiring dishes are cooked with the simplest ingredients— among them, an enlightening practice of “Three Minds.”

85 心の料理

Treats from the Heart 86

大心 Big Mind

買菜回家，發現都被蟲蛀壞了，你 會 感 到 生 氣 嗎？ 如 果 會， 那 便 是 「小心」了。 佛家說的「小心」跟我們現在理解 的「小心」有所不同。前者指的， 是為小小的事情抓狂。相對於這種 「小心」，「大心」像一座山一樣， 不會因為一隻小松鼠挾走了松果而 暴跳如雷，總是能以豁達的心，宏 觀地看事情，平靜安然。 當然，凡人都有「小心」，但在煮 食時也練習廣大包容的心─例如 想 醃 芥 菜 但 找 不 到 芥 菜， 不 用 發 愁， 或 者 可 以 換 上 菜 心 ─ 距 離 「大心」，又近一步了。

87 心の料理

When you bring home your grocery and find that the vegetables are rotten, would you get angry? If so, you have a “small mind.”

As opposed to a “small mind,” which easily gets agitated or excited, a “big mind” is steady like a mountain. A mountain won’t mind if a squirrel takes away a pine cone. A person with a “big mind” always looks at the big picture and keeps a calm composure.

Of course, human beings all have a “small mind.” But we can practice “big mind” when we cook. For instance, if you have the perception that cabbage works better for pickles, but can’t find it in the market, don’t freak out. You can feel equally contented with pickled choy sum.

Treats from the Heart 88

89 心の料理

Pickled Choy Sum

醃 菜 心

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

菜心 | 16 棵 高湯 | 600 毫升 豉油 | 6 茶匙 味醂 | 6 茶匙 鹽 | 適量

Choy sum | 16 pcs Soup stock | 600 ml Soy sauce | 6 tsp Mirin | 6 tsp Salt | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

菜心洗淨後，浸水 10 分鐘， 切成小段。

2 煲水，加入少量鹽。菜心 放 入 滾 水 中， 煮 30 至 60 秒，然後浸入冰水。 3 將菜心的水份擰乾。 4 將其餘材料混合，加入菜 心，醃製時間越久，味道 越濃。

1

Wash the choy sum and soak in water for 10 minutes.

Cut into bite-size chunks.

2 Boil water and add salt. Cook the choy sum for around 3060 seconds and quickly dip in ice water.

3 Squeeze water out from the choy sum.

4 Mix the seasonings. Marinate the choy sum.

Treats from the Heart 90

老心 Parental Mind

「老心」即是父母心，把一切都視 如己出，自然有慈悲心腸。 煮食是怎樣練習「老心」呢？洗米 時，小心挑出每一顆砂子，但不要 丟掉一粒米。菜葉邊爛了，就只把 那一截切走，其餘完好的，還可以 繼續食用。 甘香可口的「飛龍頭」也可以是「老 心 」 的 成 果： 蘿 蔔 的 頭、 青 蔥 的 尾、包着粟米的外皮、煮過高湯的 昆布、用剩的油鹽調味……平常隨 手棄掉的零碎，切幼後拌成豆腐丸 子，炸一炸，鬆脆軟綿，暖呼呼的 珍惜滋味。

91 心の料理

A “parental mind” sees everything as its own children. It is a practice of compassion and kindness.

How can one practice “parental mind” when cooking? When you wash the rice, carefully pick out every piece of sand, but do not drain away a single grain of rice.

When the tip of a leaf is rotten, just cut away that little part and keep the rest.

Delicious “flying dragon heads” can also be made with a “parental mind”: top of a carrot, ends of scallions, husks of corn, cooked kombu, leftover seasonings…

Finely chop these usually discarded bits and pieces and blend them in tofu balls. In sizzling hot oil, the crunchy crust holds a great practice.

Treats from the Heart 92

93 心の料理

Flying Dragon Heads

飛 龍 頭

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

剩餘蔬菜 豆腐 | 1 包 麵粉 | 90 克 豉油 | 1 茶匙 糖 | 2 湯匙 鹽 | 適量

Leftover vegetables Tofu | 1 pack Flour | 90 g Soy sauce | 1 tsp Sugar | 2 tbsp Salt | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

剩餘蔬菜切碎。

2 瀝乾豆腐，壓碎， 直至平滑。 3 豆腐加入蔬菜小段、調味 料及麵粉，攪拌均勻。 4 取適量豆腐於手中搓成 小球。 5 備油鍋，豆腐球炸至表面 呈金黃色即可。

1

Dice the leftover vegetables.

2 Mash the tofu.

3 Mix the vegetables, seasonings and flour with tofu.

4 Shape the mixture into little balls.

5 Deep-fry the tofu-balls until they turn golden.

Treats from the Heart 94

喜心 Happy Mind

世 事 無 常， 一 滴 水 流 走 了 就 永 遠 不回來，今天與朋友共聚吃火鍋， 明 天 可 能 就 海 角 天 涯。 能 平 平 安 安 地 吃 飯， 為 親 愛 的 人 煮 食， 都 不是必然。 意識到無常，就更珍惜當下。常懷 「喜心」，用心下廚，食滿腹隨喜。

95 心の料理

Everything changes. When a drop of water flows away, it never comes back. A gathering today might not happen again in the future. A comfortable meal. Cooking for your loved ones. All these cannot be taken for granted.

When we understand transience, we learn to cherish the moment. Always keep a “happy mind” when you cook and eat.

Treats from the Heart 96

97 心の料理

Vegetables Hotpot

蔬 菜 火 鍋

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

旺菜 | 2 個 紅蘿蔔 | 1 個 薑 | 100 克 高湯 | 1 公升 飛龍頭

Chinese cabbage | 2 Carrot | 1 Ginger | 100 g Soup stock | 1 L Flying Dragon Heads

做法

Preparations

1

旺菜、紅蘿蔔切成容易入 口的小片。

1

Cut the Chinese cabbage and carrot into bite-size pieces.

2 薑磨成蓉。 2 Grate the ginger.

3 將所有材料放進高湯 / 水 中，煲滾。

3 Cook all ingredients in stock/ water.

Treats from the Heart 98

99 心の料理

Tempura Practice

精 進 天 婦 羅

材 料 （4 人份量）

Ingredients（4 servings）

紅蘿蔔 | 連葉 4 個 麵粉 | 60 克 水 | 60 毫升 鹽 | 適量

Carrots with leaves | 4 Flour | 60 g Water | 60 ml Salt | to taste

做法

Preparations

1

紅蘿蔔切成小段。紅蘿蔔 葉切成容易入口的小份。

2 預備天婦羅麵糊：輕輕攪 勻麵粉和水。 3 紅蘿蔔和葉蘸一下麵糊， 放 入 攝 氏 170 度 的 滾 油 油 炸，至表面呈金黃色即可。

1

Cut the carrots and leaves into thin strips.

2 Prepare tempura batter: mix flour and water in a bowl and stir slightly.

3 Heat oil to 170 degrees Celsius. Dip the carrots and leaves in the batter and fry until golden.

Treats from the Heart 100

清粥 一 小 碗 A Small Bowl of Congee

寺 院 裡 的 僧 人， 當 然 不 會 大 吃 大 喝。例如早飯，他們通常只吃一小 碗清粥，份量由料理僧分配，如果 隔鄰的大碗一點，也不可以羨慕。 原則上，除了生病，不能多要一點。 這樣少的份量，是不是真的可以吃 飽？

In a temple, monks usually eat simply.

For example, breakfast is a small bowl of congee. If someone else has a bigger bowl, one is not supposed to be envious.

In principle, only in the exceptional case of sickness can one ask for more. Eating so little, do monks really feel full?

清茶淡飯也是種修行。用膳時，如 果想想以下的問題，一小口清粥， 份量大概都會有所不同。

Restrained eating is a practice. When you eat, try thinking about the following questions. A spoonful of congee might be more filling than you thought.

1 面前的食物是從哪裡來的？ 1 Where does the food come from?

2 問問你自己：你過生活的方式 值得得到這食物嗎？

2 Ask yourself: Is your way of life worth the food?

3 用膳時，不可想要更多。 3 Do not want “more.”

4 想像：進食的同時，也是在構 成身體。

4 Imagine: Eating makes your body.

5 想着：要生存，就要進食。

5 Think: To be alive, I have to eat.

101 心の料理

Treats from the Heart 102

吃一口平和

Recipes for Peace

電 影 導 演 Wim WENDERS 和 哲 學 家 Mary ZOURNAZI 合著過一本書， 叫《Inventing Peace》。 他 們 提 出 了一個疑問：說起「戰爭」，我們 即時就聯想到很多歷史事件、血淋 淋的畫面和多不勝數的詞彙；可是 說起「和平」呢？如果「和平」不 止戰爭的反面，我們怎樣想像、創 造「和平」的實體存在？ We are what we eat。 一日三餐， 可不可以是咀嚼、消化「和平」的 契機？

Film director Wim WENDERS and philosopher Mary ZOURNAZI co-authored a book. Entitled Inventing Peace, it puts forth a question: when we talk about “war,” an abundance of historical incidents, images and vocabularies come to mind.

This however does not happen when we talk about “peace.” If peace is not only an absence of war, how do we imagine and create its existence?

We are what we eat. Can food be something for us to chew on “peace”?

項目伙伴 Programme Partners : Sita Kuratomi BHAUMIK + Mohammed QURESHI

Treats from the Heart 106

分歧 中 的 同一 窩 飯 Shared Despite Conflicts

印巴關係是國際議題，兩國持續對 立。毗鄰的人，為甚麼會為敵？ 1947 年 8 月 14 日及 15 日，巴基斯 坦和印度相繼宣佈獨立，兩國從此 由雷德克里夫線分割。此後，兩地 在政治、宗教、意識形態上分歧， 令本來的鄰居成為敵人。身處巴基 斯坦的印度教徒逃亡到印度，而在 印度的伊斯蘭教徒則急忙到巴基斯 坦尋求庇護，很多人亦因強制遷移 成為難民。兩國獨立將戰火燒得更 猛 烈， 並 帶 來 之 後 的 三 次 印 巴 戰 爭。衝突和暴力造成人命傷亡，亦 使人顛沛流離、無家可歸。 可是，在眾多分歧中，文化的根總 有 重 疊 之 處，Biryani 便 是 其 中 之 一。燉肉跟米飯層層交疊，訴說着 盤根錯節的歷史。

107 吃一口平和

Conflicts between Pakistan and India have gone on for years. Why did neighbours become enemies?

On 14 and 15 August 1947, Pakistan and India declared independence respectively.

The two countries were then separated by the Radcliffe Line. Ever since then, their political, religious and ideological schisms turned neighbours into enemies. Pakistani Hindus flee to India; Indian Muslims cross the border to seek asylum. Many people are forced to leave their homeland and become refugees. War persists. Precious lives are wasted. Countless people suffer from exile.

Despite their violent divergence, the two places nonetheless have shared roots.

Biryani is one such manifestations. In the layers of flavours is the taste of their complex relations.

Recipes for Peace 108

Biryani 的起源是一個謎，有人說它 由波斯經阿富汗傳入印度，也有人 說它是 17 世紀時印度皇室為軍人煮 的一道菜。 時至今日，Biryani 是南亞家傳戶曉 的美食，不單在南亞餐廳可輕易找 到，也是印度人、巴基斯坦人節慶、 聚餐時常煮的家常菜。 Biryani 的做法和材料千變萬化，按 當地人口味，主角可以是雞肉、羊 肉、牛肉或蔬菜，而且有多款香料 配搭，不同煮法風味各異。 雖然版本有異，這是印度和巴基斯 坦共同擁有的一道菜。分歧的煮法 之下，是對溫飽的共同追求。

109 吃一口平和

The origin of biryani is disputed. Some say it was introduced to India from Persia via Afghanistan. Some say it was a dish Indian royalties prepared for soldiers in the 17th century.

Today, biryani is a popular dish in South Asia. It is served in restaurants, and also commonly cooked by Indians and Pakistanis for festive celebrations.

Biryani recipes vary. Local varieties feature chicken, lamb, beef or vegetables.

Spices are indispensible, but the flavours differ across the region.

With slight differences, the dish is shared

by India and Pakistan. There might not be a consensus on the cooking method, but the craving for fulfillment is the same for everyone.

Recipes for Peace 110

來自印度的 Rukhsana，居港逾廿載， 為我們介紹雞肉 Biryani 的做法。 準 備 材 料 時，Rukhsana 再 三 叮 囑 要怎樣處理食材；十人的分量，其 實足夠讓二十人分享─煮一桌暖 呼呼的美味，吃得人人溫飽，對這 位 印 度 阿 姨 來 說， 是 秉 承 傳 統 文 化，也是對各人的照顧周全。

111 吃一口平和

Rukhsana moved to Hong Kong from India more than twenty years ago. She shared her chicken biryani recipe with us.

When preparing the ingredients, Rukhsana had very meticulous instructions. Her serving for ten was actually enough to feed twenty people. To this Indian auntie, making sure that the dish is perfect and filling is a cultural practice. It is also her instinct to take good care of everyone.

Recipes for Peace 112

113 吃一口平和

Biryani

材 料 （10 人份量）

Ingredients（10 servings）

雞肉 | 1.5 公斤 印度香米 | 1 公斤 馬鈴薯 | 切粒 | 50 克 洋蔥 | 切粒 | 50 克 炸洋蔥 | 適量 番茄 | 切粒 | 300 克 原條青辣椒 | 細條 | 4 條 梅子 | 12 粒 芫荽葉 | 剁碎 | 2 杯 薄荷葉 | 15-20 塊 露兜樹花精華水 | 2 湯匙 酥油 | 125 毫升 鹽 | 適量

Chicken | 1.5 kg Basmati rice | 1 kg Potatoes | diced | 50 g Onions | diced | 50 g Fried Onions | a handful Tomatoes | diced | 300 g Whole green chilies | small | 4 pcs Plum | 12 pcs Coriander leaves | diced | 2 cups Mint leaves | 15-20 pcs Kewra water | 2 tbsp Ghee | 125 ml Salt | a pinch

雞肉醃料 原味乳酪 | 250 克 炸洋蔥 | 50 克 薑蒜蓉 | 8 湯匙 芫荽粉 | 4 茶匙 紅辣椒粉 | 4 茶匙 細條青辣椒 | 磨成蓉 | 4 茶匙 瑪撒拉粉 | 2 茶匙

Marinade for chinken Plain yogurt | 250 g Fried onions | 50 g Ginger garlic paste | 8 tbsp Coriander powder | 4 tsp Red chili powder | 4 tsp Small green chili | mashed | 4 tsp Garam masala powder | 2 tsp

米飯香料 八角 | 2 粒 丁香 | 8 粒 玉桂枝 | 約兩寸 | 1 條 小豆蔻 | 8 粒 大豆蔻 | 2 粒 黑種草籽 | 1 茶匙 肉豆蔻粉 | ½ 茶匙 檸檬汁 | 4 茶匙

Spices for the rice Star anises | 2 pcs Cloves | 8 pcs Cinnamon stick | 2-inch | 1 pc Small cardamom | 8 pcs Big cardamom | 2 pcs Black cumin seed | zeera | 1 tsp Nutmeg and mace powder | ½ tsp Lemon juice | 4 tsp

Recipes for Peace 114

115 吃一口平和

Biryani

做法 1

以雞肉醃料醃雞肉約一 小時。

Preparations 1

Marinate the chicken for about an hour.

2 先炒馬鈴薯，盛起備用。

2 Fry the potatoes. Put aside.

3 洋蔥略炒至金黃色，然後 放入雞肉及番茄。中火燉 煮 40 分鐘，不停攪拌。雞 肉煮至七成熟時，加入馬 鈴薯、額外兩茶匙的瑪撒 拉粉、肉豆蔻粉、芫荽葉、 薄荷葉、梅子。合蓋煮至 汁料收乾。

3 Fry the onions until golden, add the chicken and to m ato e s . S tew fo r 4 0 minutes on medium heat, keep stirring. When the chicken is 70% done, add the potatoes, extra 2 teaspoons of garam masala powder, nutmeg and mace powder, coriander leaves, mint leaves and plum. Cover and cook until the sauce is absorbed.

4 將米飯香料、六茶匙鹽、 一湯匙油加進一鍋水中， 煲滾。水滾時，加入洗淨 的米，合蓋把米煮至七成 熟，瀝乾備用。 5 鋪上一半的飯在鍋中，再 把一半的雞肉平鋪上去， 再鋪上另一半飯。然後加 入酥油，放上原條青辣椒、 芫荽葉、薄荷葉和炸洋蔥。 蓋上蓋子，大火煮 5 至 10 分鐘，再用細火煮 10 至 15 分鐘。

4 Add the spices, 6 teaspoons of salt, and 1 tablespoon of oil in a pot of water. Bring it to a boil. Cook the washed rice until it is 70% done. Drain the rice.

5 Place half of the rice in a pot, followed by a layer of chicken, and another layer of rice. Add the ghee, whole green chilies, coriander leaves, mint leaves and fried onions. Cover and cook for 5 to 10 minutes on high heat, then for 10 to 15 mins on low heat.

Recipes for Peace 116

療癒 的 「 私房 藥 方 」 Kitchen Remedies

不同背景、文化的人走在一起，不 同語言每每令彼此苦無交集，迥異 的世界觀甚至會激發衝突。 在美國有一個藝術組合，叫 People’ s Kitchen Collective， 他 們 以 食 物 作 為媒介，塑造不同的關係。其中一 個項目是《私房藥方》，透過簡單 的表格，問參加者一條貼心的問題： 小時候身體不適，家人會讓你吃甚 麼？參加者回答後，會隨機得到另 一位的藥方。 從 蘋 果 到 烚 蛋，umeboshi 到 mal de amor……《 私 房 藥 方 》 不 只 是 兒 時 記 憶， 亦 輕 輕 訴 說 着 家 的 歷 史，將民間智慧記錄下來，透過參 加者流傳。甜酸苦辣之間，不同文 化的藥方或有相同、或有相異，感 同身受地細味種種傷患與療癒，同 理心是消除隔膜的良方。

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When people from different backgrounds and cultures come together, language might be a barrier for communication.

Differences in outlooks sometimes lead to conflicts.

In the United States, there is an art group called People’s Kitchen Collective. Using food as a medium, they shape relations.

One of their projects is Kitchen Remedies.

With a simple form as a prompt, participants are invited to fill in the blanks: “When I was sick as a child, my parents/caretakers/ elders would feed me ______.” When they share their answers, they get someone else’s reply in return.

From apples to hard-boiled eggs, from umeboshi to mal de amor… These recipes are made up of childhood memories and family histories. Indigenous wisdom passes on from one participant to another.

Sometimes bitter, sometimes sweet, recipes from different cultures prescribe both differences and similarities. Looking at these notes on healing is a barrierdissolving practice of empathy.

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Apple

蘋 果

來自 Jane 在韓國生活的祖父 Origin: Jane’ s grandfather from Korea 「小時候，父親會把蘋果切成一半，然後從小匙刮出蘋果醬。那時 候，我真的相信這樣蘋果就會有療癒的效果。」 “When we were little, my dad would cut an apple in half and scrape apple sauce with it from a little spoon. I honestly thought that an apple turned to medicine when eaten in this manner.”

Hard-boiled eggs

白 烚 蛋

來自 Nkauj 在南加州的苗裔家人 Origin: Nkauj’ s Hmong family in Northern California 「每當我患上感冒或發燒，母親總會把雞蛋煮熟，然後剝殼 ，再用 雞蛋揉搓我的額頭和上半身；雞蛋冷卻和散開後，她就會換上一 隻又一隻的雞蛋。如果你把雞蛋打開，就會看見蛋黃佈滿大大小 小的黑點，每換一隻雞蛋，黑點就變得越來越少。雖然這個做法 未必有真正的療癒功效，但絕對有舒緩作用。」 “When I had the flu or a fever, my mom would boil store-bought eggs, let it cool for just a hot minute, peel off the egg shell and rub the egg all over my head and upper body. After the egg cooled off and slowly broke down, she’d use another egg, and another. Each time she was done with an egg, she’d open it up and you would see the yolk and dark bumps. Egg after egg, it would have less bumps. This wouldn’t necessarily cure the illness but it definitely provided relief.”

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照片鳴謝 Photo courtesy of People’ s Kitchen Collective

Umeboshi

梅 乾

來自 Alicia 在加州的日裔母親 Origin: Alicia’ s Japanese mother in California 「在我 13 歲的時候，我在哥倫比亞生活了超過四十年的祖母首次到 訪日本，並為住在考卡山谷省日裔的哥倫比亞家庭各帶來一大桶 的梅乾和海苔醬。在此之前，我只吃過一兩次由別人從日本帶回 來的漬梅。還記得，那時我們到港口收取大包裹，人人都視梅乾 為黃金。她把梅乾收藏在地下室，只在家人患病時，才拿出來食 用。」 “When I was 13 years old, my grandmother visited Japan for the first time after spending over forty years of her life in Colombia. She was responsible for purchasing a barrel of umeboshi and a barrel of seaweed paste for each of the Japanese Colombian families in the Valle del Cauca. Until then, I had only tasted pickled plums once or twice from people who had come back from trips to Japan. I remember clearly the day we went to the port to pick up the huge shipment. Everyone treated umeboshi like gold. She kept it in the basement and only fed it to family members who were sick. We ate from those barrels for years.”

Mal de amor

來自 Norma 在墨西哥鄉郊生活的祖父 Origin: Norma’ s grandfather in rural Mexico 「『愛是最好的治療良藥』—這是我祖父的教訓。要有健康的身 體，先要有健康的心。病痛必須要由內開始治療。這杯由蜂蜜、 薄荷葉和玫瑰花瓣沖調而成的茶盛載着親人的愛意，感染我們的 身心。沖調這杯茶最重要的是，用雙手緊緊握着玻璃杯，為茶注 滿愛。他在料理私房藥方的時候都會這樣做。」 “Love is the ultimate cure, this is my grandfather’s teaching to me.

Our heart has to be healthy in order for the rest of our being to be healthy. Pain and disease must be treated from inside (the soul) out.

This tea of honey, mint and rose petals made in a glass vessel is a vehicle for love. We can affect spiritual and physical change through this love. The most important step when making this tea is to hold the glass between your hands and place the energy of love through them into the glass. He does this will all of his home remedies.”

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照片鳴謝 Photo courtesy of People’ s Kitchen Collective

填補 罅 縫 的點 心 Dim Sum to Fill an Interstice

蝦餃、燒賣、春卷、馬拉糕……這 些廣東點心驟眼看來，跟一般茶樓 的沒甚麼分別，但其實它們是「清 真點心」。

Prawn dumplings, siu mai, spring rolls, Malay sponge cake… These dim sum look ordinary. What’s unsual is that they are all halal.

傳統點心多有豬肉，製作時亦常用 到豬油，禁食豬肉的穆斯林不能食 用。因此他們即使居港多年，也未 必吃過點心。於是，位於灣仔的伊 斯蘭中心餐廳，度身訂造穆斯林也 可品嚐的香港地道美食。

Pork and lard, forbidden from a Islamic diet, are frequently used in traditional dim sum. Many Muslims, even if they have been living in Hong Kong for quite a while, have never tried a bite. To make the local specialties more accessible, an Islamic restaurant in Wan Chai came up with halal versions.

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香港是國際大都會，穆斯林人口接 近三十萬，可是要找到清真食品， 對他們來說卻毫不簡單。

Hong Kong is an international city with an Islamic population of almost 300,000, but halal food is not easy to find at all.

要做到「清真」(halal)，除了不含 豬肉，點心中的肉類都要符合伊斯 蘭教教規所定的屠宰方式處理：穆 斯林屠夫下刀前唸誦清真言，過程 中盡量減輕動物受驚和痛苦。現代 社會工業化的肉類處理程序，不符 合伊斯蘭教「清真」的原則，限制 了很多穆斯林的選擇。

Halal food is pork-free, and only uses meat that is slaughtered according to Islamic regulations: the butcher prays before killing the animal, and in the process minimizes its fear and pain. Meat processing in modern industrial facilities usually does not conform to such principles; Muslims thus have limited options in the market.

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伊斯蘭中心餐廳的燒賣和春卷都以 雞肉作餡，蝦餃的蝦膠沒有加入豬 肉，馬拉糕用牛油，食物獲清真認 證，讓穆斯林安心食用。同時，點 心沒那麼油膩，比較健康清新。 除了穆斯林，很多香港人都慕名而 來，透過食物，對「清真」多了一 層理解。特製的點心滋味拉近了人 的距離，同時亦填補了信仰、種族、 文化間的罅縫。

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The Islamic restaurant uses chicken for siu mai and spring rolls. The shrimp dumplings’ fillings are not mixed with pork. Butter, instead of lard, is used for the Malay sponge cake. All food is certified halal. At the same time, the less oily food is also more healthy and refreshing.

Other than Muslims, many Hongkongers also eat in the restaurant. Through food, they learn more about halal practices. The specialty dim sum bring together people, and also fill an interstice between religions, ethnicities and cultures.

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薄餅 的 十 萬百 千 里 A Pizza from a Thousand Miles Way

薄餅從哪裡來？大部份人第一個想 到的答案，可能都是「意大利」。 如果問題清晰一點：一個在香港製 作與消耗的薄餅，材料從哪裡來， 你知道嗎？ 如果將薄餅拼成一個顯示材料來源 地的圓餅圖，「香港」的薄餅會是 甚麼模樣？

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Where do pizzas come from? To most people, the immediate answer is “Italy.” But more specifically: Where do the ingredients of a Hong Kong-made pizza come from?

If food sources are shown in the form of a pie chart on a pizza, what will this “Hong Kong” pizza look like?

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香港 薄 餅 Hong Kong Pizza

90%

入口

I mp ort s

新鮮食品的主要供應來源 為中國大陸：

Fresh food supplies mainly originate from Mainland China:

• • • •

10%

家禽：100 % 蔬菜：93 % 雞蛋：53 % 海產：45 %

本地生產 • • • • •

新鮮蔬菜：17 % 生豬：6.8 % 活禽：94.6 % 海魚：33 % 淡水魚：4 %

• • • •

Livestock: 100 % Vegetables: 93 % Egg: 53 % Marine products: 45 %

Local produce • • • • •

Fresh vegetables: 17 % Pork: 6.8 % Live poultry: 94.6 % Sea fish: 33 % River/farmed fish: 4 %

資料來源 Sources: 立 法 會 秘 書 處 資 訊 服 務 部 資 料 研 究 組，「香 港 對 進 口 食 物 的 規 管」，2015 年“Regulation of Imported Food in Hong Kong,”Research Office, Information Services Division, Legislative Council, 2015 http://www.legco.gov.hk/ research-publications/english/1516fsc14-regulation-of-imported-food-in-hong-kong-20160226-e.pdf 漁農自然護理署（2016 年數據）Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (Data of 2016)

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2016 年，香港人總共消耗 850,297 公噸新鮮蔬菜，本地生產量卻只有 14,200 公噸，佔食用量 1.7%。 香港本地糧食生產量低，是不是因 為「 香 港 地 少 人 多， 缺 乏 天 然 資 源」？官方數據顯示，同年的農業 用地共有 4,435 公頃，當中卻只有 698 公頃土地用來耕種。換句話說， 84% 的農地，其實是在閒置狀態。 香港其實不是沒有土地資源去發展 農業的。對進口食物的過份依賴， 大大減低一個地方在基本生存條件 上的自主性，長途運輸的碳排放， 亦有損生態環境。 有見及此，近年越多越多人都開始 「歸園田居」，親自下田，增加本 土農產品的供應。再加上本地農場 的產物，其實我們也可以恢復香港 食材在入口以及本地生產之間的平 衡。

In 2016, Hongkongers consumed 850,297 tonnes of fresh vegetables in total, but there were only 14,200 tonnes of local production, which made up of 1.7% of the total consumption.

Is the low percentage of local produce really caused by “a lack of land and natural resources in the densely populated city”?

Official statistics show that there are 4,435 hectares of agricultural land, but only 698 hectares are used for agriculture. In other words, 84% of the agricultural lands are left unused.

Indeed, there is not exactly a lack of land for agriculture in Hong Kong. The overreliance on food imports seriously affects a place’s autonomy over a basic matter of survival. The carbon footprints of longdistance procurement are also hazardous to the environment.

Because of this, more and more Hongkongers have picked up farming over the past few years. They get their hands dirty for increasing local output. Together with produce from existing farms, actually we can restore the balance between imports and locally grown food.

資料來源 Source: 漁農自然護理署（2016 年數據）| Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (Data of 2016)

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可是，本地食材不是隨時隨地買得 到， 價 錢 亦 每 每 比 進 口 的 要 貴 一 點。很多人因此會選擇看似更方便 化算的入口食材。不過，我們有沒 有想過，為甚麼進口產品可以如此 產量多、價錢平呢？ 糧食生產需時，幾元一斤的市價， 怎麼可能是幾個月耕耘的合理回 報？比「合理」價格為低的售價， 背後可能是大量使用化肥和農藥、 基因改造、對勞工的剝削…… 工廠式的大量生產可以大大減低生 產成本，全球的糧食差不多掌控於 十間跨國企業的手上，它們除了涉 及上述問題，有時更會左右政府決 策，令小型糧食生產者的競爭能力 每況愈下，壟斷情況日益嚴重。

However, local produce might not be available in every grocery store, and its prices are usually higher than imports.

Many people thus prefer the cheaper and handier options. But did you ever think about why imports come in such large quantities and low prices?

Food production takes time. How can months of hard work can be sold for a few dollars per catty? The unreasonably low price might be made possible by an overdose of chemical fertilisers and insecticides, genetic modifications, exploitable of labour…

Industrial food production lowers costs.

Supply of the world’s food is mostly controlled in the hands of 10 multinational corporations. They are scrutinized for the above issues, and are so powerful that sometimes they can influence policy, aggravating monopoly and making it hard for smaller-scale producers to compete.

資料來源 Source: 樂 施 會 報 告： 品 牌 背 後 糧 食 公 義 和 十 大 食 品 與 飲 品 業 公 司 Oxfam’ s Behind the Brands https://www. behindthebrands.org/en-us

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面對如此情況，樂施會發起了「品 牌背後」倡議運動，持續評估十大 食品和飲品公司的社會及環境政 策，並就婦女、農場工人及小農戶 待遇、公司透明度、土地政策、水 資源管理、碳排放等項目評分。「品 牌背後」的評分、報告都在網上公 開，鼓勵消費者良心消費，以行動 支持個人信念。 美國資深記者 Michael POLLAN 說： 「你可以用手上的餐具投票，而你 每天可以投票三次。」 1 如果每人 每天有三張選票在手，身在香港的 我們，有甚麼選擇？我們的選擇， 又怎樣影響這個地方？

In response to this, Oxfam initiated “Behind the Brands.” The campaign keeps watch of 10 big food and beverage manufacturers and grades their social and environmental policies; treatment of women and farm workers and small-scale producers, transparency, rights, access to and sustainable use of land and water, as well as carbon footprints. Graded assessments are released online to inform consumers for principled choices.

Michael POLLAN, food writer and veteran journalist, once wrote, “you can vote with your fork, in other words, and you can do it three times a day.” 1 If everybody has three votes each day, what would you vote for Hong Kong? How would our votes affect this place?

1 Michael POLLAN,“Voting with Your Fork”, The New York Times, May 7, 2006 . http://michaelpollan.com/ articles-archive/voting-with-your-fork/

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甚麼 是 吃一 口 平 和？ `What Exactly Are Recipes for Peace?

日常生活的每個環節都可以帶來深 遠的影響。「吃一口平和」請大家 對我們最關注的事情作出提問、反 思與分享。

Our everyday actions can have largescale impact. Recipes for Peace ask us to question, reflect on, and share the issues that matter to us most.

當一日三餐，我們都用餐具投票給 我們心安理得的價值觀─不論個 人宗教信仰或者生活理念，還是宏 觀如社會公義及生態平衡─同時 尊重不同人的選擇，這樣，大概就 是「吃一口平和」。

Three times a day, if we vote with our forks for our values—from individual faith and principles to social justice and ecological balance—and at the same time respect different choices, we make a difference for a more peaceful world.

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by Samuel

Heal-all Herbal Tea

夏 枯 草

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 夏 枯 草 在 夏 至 後 就 會 開 始 枯 萎， 因 而 得 名。 夏 枯 草 學 名 叫 Prunella vulgaris，Prunella 是其屬名，vulgaris 意指「共同的」。 相傳夏枯草用途廣泛，能醫百病，因此又稱 heal-all（萬能藥） 或 self-heal（自癒）。 夏枯草能清熱解毒、祛除濕熱、防暑降溫。對 Samuel 來說，是 調和五行的必備良藥。中醫相信，健康即身心平衡。身體內的元 素無分好壞，但任何一種太多或太少，人就會生病。像夏枯草這 種調和良法──對人也好、社會也好──是失衡時的平和藥方。 A kind of Chinese herbal tea is made with prunella vulgaris. “Vulgaris” means “common.” It is said that the plant can heal all kinds of ailments and is thus called “heal-all” or “self-heal.”

Heal-all herbal tea reduces excessive heat and moisture in the body.

For Samuel, it is a remedy for imbalance. Chinese medicine sees physical and psychological balance as the basis of health. Elements in the body are neither good nor bad, but if there is an excess or lack of any single element, the person gets sick. The balancing power of heal-all is a great cure for people and societies.

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by Jazz

Sweet and Sour Pork

咕 嚕 肉

參加者分享 Participant's sharing 咕嚕肉是 Jazz 最喜愛的食物。小時候，如果家人特地買咕嚕肉 「加餸」，會感覺到家人對她的疼惜。 偶爾家人相處有磨擦時，較傳統的 Jazz 媽媽不習慣當面和解， 卻總會買來一盒咕嚕肉。見到最愛的小菜，Jazz 亦會送上媽媽喜 歡的食物，求和示好。久而久之，咕嚕肉便成了母女間的小默契。 一道酸酸甜甜的家常小菜，築起了家人溝通的橋樑。 Sweet and sour pork is Jazz’s favourite food. When she was young, if her family ordered the dish, she felt their love.

When there is friction among her family members, Jazz’s mom is not used to verbal reconciliation. She would however bring home a box of sweet and sour pork. Jazz would then also make up with her mother’s favourite food. The dish has become something special between the mother and daughter. Sweet and sour, it ties the family together.

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Salted Coffee

by Polly

加 鹽 咖 啡

參加者分享 Participant's sharing Polly 分享了一個在網絡流傳的故事：一對男女在咖啡室約會， 男生緊張得不小心把鹽加進咖啡。這卻引起了女生的好奇心， 男生只好將錯就錯，解釋道：「我小時候家在海邊，海水的味 道又苦又鹹。自從搬到市區後，很久沒回家了，加了鹽的咖啡， 讓我想起家。」豈料，這答案打動了女生，誤打誤撞地擄獲了 芳心。 你想嚐嚐咖啡加鹽的味道嗎？ Polly 卻說她不會試，因為她認 為這味道應留在想像中，而這就是她心中和平的味道。 把和平的味道留在想像，不是怕現實又苦又鹹，而是為了留白。 在小小的想像空間建立同理心，創造和平的世界。 Polly shared a virtual story: a man and a woman had a date in a coffee shop. The men was so nervous that he put salt in his coffee.

The women got curious, so he made up an excuse: “When I was a kid, I lived by the seaside. The taste of the sea was bitter and salty.

After moving to the city, I haven’t gone back for a long time. Salt in coffee reminds me of home.”

Would you like to try salted coffee? Polly said no. She believes that the taste should stay in her imagination — this is her recipe for peace.

Polly imagines peace, not because she is afraid of bitterness, but because she prefers openness. It gives room to empathy for a peaceful world.

你的平和食譜，又是甚麼？ What is your recipe for peace?

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食的社會創新 Food Innovations

慢食

Slow Food

城市人生活匆匆忙忙，只着眼速度，每 每忘了更重要的價值。「慢食」因此在 1986 年成立，希望對抗日益盛行的快餐 文化，並在 1989 年正式發起國際慢食運 動，簽署慢食宣言，提倡保留地方飲食 文化和傳統、以行動保護生物和食物多 樣性、透過教育提醒參加者食物的滋味， 選擇美味的、不傷害環境的、對製造者 公平的食物，慢慢作出改變。

Urban dwellers often seem to be racing against time and forget what is more important. Founded in 1986,“Slow Food” aims at counteracting the increasingly prevalent fast food culture. The international Slow Food movement was officially launched in 1989 when the Slow Food Manifesto was signed. The movement advocates for preserving local food cultures and traditions, protecting of food- and biodiversity via actions, and through education, reminding participants of the pleasure of food and how to make good, clean and fair choices. Slowly but gently, Slow Food is making changes.

http://www.slowfood.com/

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FoodCycle 英國

FoodCycle UK

在英國，有人每天在忍受飢餓，同時卻 有些完好的食物被丟棄；很多人感到孤 獨，但當他們聚在一起，便可結交新朋 友，建立社群。有見及此，FoodCycle 組織了全國 1,800 名義工，每週從超級 市場、雜貨店和市集收集過噸的剩餘食 物，在閒置的社區廚房內，將食物烹煮 成 850 份 營 養 餐， 讓 有 需 要 人 士 共 同 進 餐。 許 多 FoodCycle 的 服 務 對 象 缺 乏營養飲食，亦常常單獨用餐，其中包 括低收入的老年人、家庭和個人，也有 難民、尋求庇護者、復康人士和愛滋病 帶菌者。

Every day in the UK, there are people going hungry while perfectly good food is being thrown away. Lots of people are lonely, and they could come together to form communities and make new friends.

Bringing these together, with 1,800 trained volunteers across the country, FoodCycle collects more than a tonne of waste food from supermarkets, grocers and markets every week, cook it into 850 nutritious meals in spare community kitchens, and serve them to the people who really need them in big, joyful community meals. Many of FoodCycle’ s guests struggle to afford the basics to eat and many eat alone without company or conversation. The main guest groups are older people, families and individuals with low income, refugees and asylum seekers, people accessing mental health services and people with HIV.

http://www.foodcycle.org.uk/ 照片鳴謝 Photo courtesy of FoodCycle

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Conflict Kitchen 美國

Conflict Kitchen US

位 於 美 國 匹 茲 堡 的 Conflict Kitchen 只 供應正與美國發生衝突之國家的當地美 食，主題國家會定期轉換，並配合表演、 出版和討論等一系列相關活動，務求讓 食客加深對該國社會、文化和政治議題 的認識。這種多角度的呈現引發大眾對 主題國家更細緻的反思和討論，亦在主 流媒體報道和兩極化的政治表述之外， 開闢新的空間，讓大家了解這些地方的 風土人情。餐廳年中無休，為匹茲堡這 個後工業城市創造了種族多元的空間， 成為當地首間供應伊朗、阿富汗、委內 瑞拉、北韓和巴勒斯坦菜式的餐廳。

Conflict Kitchen is a restaurant that serves cuisine from countries with which the United States is in conflict. Each iteration is augmented by events, performances, publications and discussions informing diners of the culture, politics and issues at stake within the focus region. These diverse perspectives reflect a nuanced range of thought within each country, and instigate questioning, conversation and debate to engage the general public in discussions about countries, cultures and people that they might know little about outside of the polarizing rhetoric of governmental politics and the narrow lens of media headlines. Operating seven days a week in the middle of the city, it also creates a constantly changing site for ethnic diversity in the post-industrial city of Pittsburgh, as it has presented the only Iranian, Afghan, Venezuelan, North Korean and Palestinian restaurant the city has ever seen.

http://www.conflictkitchen.org 照片鳴謝 Photo courtesy of Dawn WELESKI / Conflict Kitchen

Recipes for Peace 150

Green Monday

Green Monday

很多人都知道交通工具、重工業和煤氣 發電是環境汚染的元兇，但只有少數人 明白食物也在加劇全球暖化問題。根據 2006 年聯合國糧食及農業組織報告， 相比交通工具和工業生產，肉類的生產 和消耗，其實釋出更多溫室氣體。

While most of us are aware that transportation systems, heavy industries and coal-generated electric power adversely affect the environment, few realize that food also aggravates global warming. According to a 2006 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) report, the production process of the meat we consume adds more greenhouse gases into the atmosphere than either transportation or industry.

社會企業 Green Monday 提倡以簡單、 滲透率高和行動力強的低碳生活，來應 對氣候變化和全球糧食不安全的問題， 並 與 企 業、 餐 廳、 學 校 和 大 眾 合 作， 履 行 社 會 和 環 境 責 任。 而 其 另 一 品 牌 Green Common 則是亞洲首間以售賣蔬 果、豆類和全穀類為主的雜貨店，該店 致力提供可持續、創新、健康和負責任 的食物選擇，促進社區自主。

Green Monday is a social startup that tackles climate change and global food insecurity by making low-carbon and sustainable living simple, viral and actionable. It enables corporations, restaurants, schools and the general public to join efforts in performing our social and environmental responsibilities. Green Common is Asia’ s first plant-based grocer committed to empowering the community with sustainable, innovative, wholesome and responsible food choices.

www.greenmonday.org 照片鳴謝 Photo: courtesy of Green Monday

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膳心連基金 香港

Foodlink Foundation HK

香港註冊慈善團體 Foodlink Foundation， 除了致力為有需要人士解決飢餓問題、 協助他們建立自給自足的生活和促進身 心健康，同時亦減少香港酒店及食肆的 食 物 浪 費。Foodlink 從 本 地 食 肆 收 集 可安全食用的剩餘食物，並為慈善團體 提供食物，服務區內面臨飢餓問題的人 士，其中包括兒童、老人、低收入家庭、 尋求庇護者和無家者。

Foodlink Foundation is a registered Hong Kong charity dedicated to fighting hunger, building self-sufficiency and fostering nutritional wellness among those in need, while simultaneously reducing food wastage in hotels and F&B outlets in Hong Kong. Foodlink collects safe-to-eat surplus food from F&B outlets all over the city and provides food to local charities that serve people in our community who are vulnerable to hunger. These include children, the elderly, low-income families, asylum seekers and the homeless, among others.

http://www.foodlinkfoundation.org/ 照片鳴謝；膳心連基金 Photo courtesy of Foodlink Foundation

Recipes for Peace 152

神期食品 香港

After Best Still Good HK

為了減少浪費，法國政府除了已立法強 制超市捐出即將過期食物，還淘汰了「最 佳 食 用 日 期 」（best before） 標 籤。 至 於香港，「過期」食物遭大批棄置的新 聞仍屢見不鮮。「神期食品」認為人們 對食物是否可以食用的判斷，不應完全 依賴「最佳食用日期」。他們鼓勵大家 在家烹調神期食品，將惜食減費的概念 傳開。

To re d u ce fo o d wa ste, t h e Fre n c h government has passed a law requiring supermarkets to donate food approaching its expiration date and eliminated the “best before”labels. In Hong Kong, a large amount of expired food is still discarded on a day-to-day basis.“After Best Still Good”addresses this problem by collecting expired food and giving them a delicious twist. To reduce food waste, they encourage people to cook food that is“expired”but still good.

https://www.facebook.com/afterbeststillgood/ 照片鳴謝；神期食品 Photo courtesy of After Best Still Good

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多雙筷 香港

Social Co-dining HK

在快餐文化盛行的環境中，做菜煮飯似 乎是「不符合經濟效益」的活動；當工 作佔了生活大半時間，與家人聚餐的機 會，也變得越來越珍貴。「多雙筷」見 一餐「住家飯」難求，於是計劃建立社 區共食平台，讓鄰里聚首一堂，每人帶 來一碟住家菜，互相分享，也讓生活匆 忙的街坊少吃一餐快餐。他們同時收集 住家菜食譜，讓這些獨特的滋味得以傳 承。

In a fast food culture, cooking does not seem to be“cost-effective”; when work occupies life, family dinners are rare. Realising that home cooking is not easily manageable,“Social Co-dining”is communal dining platform for kaifong to come together and share one another’ s home-cooked food. While offering alternatives to fast food, they also collect recipes to pass on the unique taste of home.

https://www.facebook.com/ 多雙筷 -510323982499137/ 照片鳴謝；多雙筷 Photo courtesy of Social Co-dining

Recipes for Peace 154

港嘢 香港

Kong Yeah Hong Kong

“港嘢”是一個支持本地農業和日常用品 生產的行動。藉着參與生產，將新界有 機農場的蔬果和醬園的傳統天然生曬醬 料烹煮成簡樸素食，帶到城市的餐桌上， 分享本地農業和生產的故事，感受在地 飲食的鮮美，實踐對人與大自然友善的 本土社區經濟，一起關心和思考香港城 鄉共生的可能性。

Kong Yeah is an action striving to support local produce, both agricultural and manufactural. Serving local organic farm-totable veggie meals, they work together with communities and farmers to take our food system back from the supermarkets and agribusiness. Kong Yeah also supports a self-reliant community economy that is fair for the producer, the consumer and even the planet!

https://www.kongyeah.org/

155 吃一口平和

「山海食堂」錄像紀錄 Video Documentation of“Eating Among Mountains and Seas” 元朗 | 錦上路 Yuen Long | Kam Sheung Road

https://goo.gl/aUsQX4

粉嶺 | 龍躍頭 Fan Ling | Lung Yeuk Tau

https://goo.gl/agWuVy

長洲 | 西灣 Cheung Chau | Sai Wan

https://goo.gl/VFBXaS

西貢 Sai Kung

https://goo.gl/YzEMvd

薄扶林村 Pok Fu Lam Village

https://goo.gl/Pdpiko

Recipes for Peace 156

食之 大 學

The University of Eat 寶馬會“創不同”學院 2016-2017 項目 Jockey Club Make a Difference School Programme 2016-2017

項目伙伴 Programme Partners 按本書內容序 In order of appearance in this book

朱耀光 CHU Yiu-kwong 明愛元朗鄉郊社區發展計劃 Caritas Yuen Long Rural Community Development Project 明愛龍躍頭社區發展計劃 Caritas Lung Yeuk Tau Community Development Project 明愛長洲西灣社區發展計劃 Caritas Cheung Chau Sai Wan Community Development Project 明愛西貢社區發展計劃 Caritas Sai Kung Community Development Project 西貢對面海「水下漁灣的故事」漁民歷 史分享小組及婦女自主生活小組 “Uncovering the Submerged History of Fishermen Havens along the High Island Straits” Sharing Group of Fishermen Oral History and Sharing Group of Women’s Good Living 明愛薄扶林社區發展計劃 Caritas Pokfulam Community Development Project Roslisham ISMAIL aka Ise 青江覚峰 Kakuho AOE

感 謝 以 下 朋 友 提 供 內 容 及 圖 片， 以 及 協 助「 食 之 大 學 」 的 進 行 | Many thanks to the following individuals and organizations for providing content and images, and assisting in the process of “The University of Eat” Dora, LAM Yin, Wilson, Vivian Samuel, Jazz, Polly 孫大鉉教授 Prof SOHN Dehyun 神期食品 After Best Still Good 漁農自然護理署 Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department 長洲西灣文化村籌委會 Cheung Chau Sai Wan Cultural Village Committee Conflict Kitchen FoodCycle 膳心連基金 Foodlink Foundation 好家庭菜園 Good Family Farm Green Monday 港嘢 Kong Yeah Organization Yori (OYori) People’s Kitchen Collective 多雙筷 Social Co-dining Kaka CHAN Steven CHAN 小兜 Del Connie KWONG

Sita Kuratomi BHAUMIK

Holly LEUNG

Mohammed QURESHI

Charles MAK

編輯小隊 Editorial Team 陳怡君 CHAN Yi-kwan 鄭銘柔 Taylor CHENG 張慧婷 Stephanie CHEUNG 李詠茵 Ada LI 梁棨豪 Nicky LIANG 實習生 Interns 馮嘉欣 Jenna FUNG 許曉昕 Queenie HUI 黃卓瀅 Angie WONG 黃雅雯 Karman WONG 攝影 Photography 張偉樂 CHEUNG Wai-lok 林磊剛 LAM Lui-kong, Roy 李鑫 LI Yam 錄像 Videography 劉德城 Theo LAU 校對 Proofreading 魏家欣 Luna NGAI 書本設計及排版 Book Design and Layout 鍾惠恩 CHUNG Wai-ian 主視覺設計 Key Visual Design 李淳朗 LEE Soen-long 出版 Publisher 創不同協作有限公司 Make A Difference Institute Limited 出版日期 Date of Publication 2018 年 5 月 May 2018 ISBN 978-988-77203-8-6

本著作係採用創用 CC 姓名標示— 非商業性 3.0 Unported 授權條款授權 This work is license under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License, http://creativecommons. org/license/by-nc/3.0 我們希望這本書的內容能夠被每一個人 免費享用，只要不涉及商業用途，你可 以隨意使用本書。注意書內部份圖片是 由版權持有人授權提供，請尊重版權， 未經同意下請勿複製該內容。 We hope to make contents of this source book freely accessible to everyone. Feel free to make good use of this booklet for non-commercial purposes. A few images are copyrighted. Please respect the owners’rights and do not reproduce the noted pages. 網上版本 Online version https://issuu.com/mad.asia

賽馬會“創不同”學院

Jockey Club Make a Difference School

跨界 • 創新 • 具社會意識 • 強調行動

CROSS-DISCIPLINARY • INNOVATIVE • SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS • ACTION-ORIENTED

MaD 由 2012 年 起 獲 香 港 賽 馬 會 慈 善 信 託基金捐助成立賽馬會“創不同”學院， 試驗不同種類的嶄新課程。在 2013-2015 年，學院獲賽馬會繼續支持，貫徹“MaD 創不同”精神，提供跨界、創新、具社 會意識及強調行動的學習經驗，銳意填 補現時常規教育的缺口。透過與國際伙 伴合辦創意、創新及創業的課程，賽馬 會“創不同”學院提供了一個富前瞻思維 的交流平台，以及建立一個有正面改變 的思維、價值及方法的學習社群。

Thanks to the support of The Hong Kong Jockey Club Charities Trust, Jockey Club MaD School was initiated in 2012 and piloted a series of educational programmes with local and international partners. In 2013 and 2015, JC MaD School will continue to experiment the uniquely “MaD” education — crossdisciplinary, innovative, socially conscious and action-oriented — on a year-round basis with the continuous support from the Trust.

Through programmes on creativity, innovation and entrepreneurship presented with global partners, JC MaD School creates a platform for exchange on cutting-edge ideas and a reflective learning community exploring the mindset, values and methodologies conducive to positive change.

關於 MaD 創不同

About MaD

MaD（Make a Difference）成立於 2009 年， 是一個跨越創意、創業、創新及發現的協 作平台，積極推動年青人以創新探索回應 當代挑戰，建立創意公民社會、為亞洲帶 來正面改變。MaD 的主要項目包括一年 一度 MaD Festival，還有終年無間的創意 項目如賽馬會創不同學院、賽馬會“創不 同”社會創新實驗室、做好嘢實驗室、都 市空間開拓實驗、與文化藝術機構及商界 合作的創意項目，以及亞洲交流等。MaD 是一個連繫亞洲 changemakers 的協作網 絡，以跨界合作、共創、同理心及永續發 展為核心價值，支持本地創意生態的長遠 發展。

Founded in 2009, MaD (Make a Difference) inspires and empowers young people all over Asia to come up with creative responses to our time’s challenges. It has evolved as a collaborative platform of creative changemakers that works at the intersection of creativity, entrepreneurship, innovation and discovery to bring about positive changes in Asia. MaD’s multifaceted portfolio includes the annual MaD Festival and year-round creative initiatives, such as the Jockey Club Make a Difference School, Jockey Club Make a Difference Social lab, MaD Good Lab, urban pioneering projects, creative collaborations with corporations and arts and culture organizations and regional exchanges. MaD supports the growth of a vibrant creative ecology, and values cross-sector synergy and co-creation opportunities, empathetic collaboration and sustainable practices.

支持我們

Support Us

作為一個非牟利機構，MaD 有賴各方支 持才可永續發展，持續推動創意公民社 會， 支 持 更 多 年 輕 人 透 過 MaD 體 驗， 尋找理想、拓闊視野，為社會創不同。 我們歡迎你透過捐款支持 MaD 的長遠發 展，你亦可以成為我們的伙伴或擔任義 工，詳情請見： http://www.mad.asia/site/supportus

As a non-profit making initiative, MaD needs your contributions to make it happen on a sustainable basis. With your support, we can continue to build a creative civil society, and more young people are enabled to experience MaD, be inspired and create positive changes for the society.

www.MaD.asia E: ask@MaD.asia T: +852 3996 1950

We welcome your contributions to support the long-term development of MaD. You can make a donation, or support us by becoming our partner or volunteer. For details, please visit: http://www.mad.asia/site/supportus

主辦 Organizer

捐助機構 Funded by

「 食 之 大 學 」 是 賽 馬 會“ 創 不 同 ”學 院 於 2016-2017年間的項目。 來 自 世 界 各 地 的 創意工作者與本地街坊，在三道課程中烹煮出 食物的層層滋味。這本書是過程結集，連同 載着故事的食譜。 “The University of Eat” is a programme presented by the Jockey Club Make a Difference School in 2016-2017. International creative practitioners and local residents came together and cooked up in a three-course, thought-provoking feast. This book is a compilation of the processes and recipes with stories.