Essential N06

Must-see The latest catwalk trends

Must-have Shoes, shoes and more shoes!

For him How designers see the man of the future

Foreword

Fashion is a way of life. And the life of a true hard-core fashionista is far from easy as Meryl Streep elucidates Anne Hathaway in The Devil Wears Prada (we can’t get enough of that movie!) There’s a lot more to putting an outfit together or choosing what to wear (and especially when to wear it) than meets the eye. The task of keeping up with all the new trends (seems there’s a new one on every corner) can be daunting, and it will take your breath way if you’re not on top of things. But that’s why we are here and where we come in: Paris, New York, London, Milan.... we bring you all the new trends, the colours, the fabrics, the looks, the fads, from the top designers and Houses directly from the runways of the fashion capitals. We wouldn’t be caught dead in some of the more dull creations but, for the most part (and you can take it from us), it’s going to be a great season! Since it’s all about the look, this edition of ESSENTIAL is eye candy heavy and the runway shows take up a good portion of our pages so you can appreciate, first hand, what’s new in the Haute Couture world.

Nonetheless we’ve put together some more in depth features for when you’re in an instructional mood: House Louis Vuitton, masters of impeccable style, tell us what they have in store for us this season and what trends they are prepared to set.

And since fashion wouldn’t really be fashion without the accessories that make a specific look work, we took the plunge and put our heart and soul into sorting through hundreds of items (and we left no passerelle unturned), to find the very best money and an acute fashion sense (!) will buy you next season. ‘Shoes’ seems to be an insufficient word to describe some of the season’s most divine creations; and the leathers... priceless.

Well, not really - even with that crisis everyone insists on talking about, there’s no way we’ll be skipping on some of this great new stuff. Fashion demands sacrifices and we’re ready for it. Are you? Don’t answer that just yet, go on, take a peek first, and find out what’s in store for you this season. Then you can tell us...

Next month we’ll talk about shinies: watches and jewels. Surely enough our good friends, diamonds, will get central stage. There are few other goodies that make her more jealous of the next girl then a frosted, expensive, shining bijou. Measuring time is extra – there are other tools for that – the trick is to bedazzle the competition and surely enough, the prey. Tiaras are not so hot, but shiny necklaces never go out of style. And, If you’re into something more... intimate, think body jewellery – your fetish is optional.

We always crave your feedback. The first issues of ESSENTIAL were met with enthusiasm from many a reader and we thank you for your encouragement and suggestions. If you have something to share please keep it clean and write to us at ESSENTIAL@macaubusiness.com. Go ahead, indulge yourself in the best the city has to offer and enjoy!

by the numbers Yes, all stats were dug up from a range of obscure websites, including those of the Macau Government and Macau Business

US$37,000 Price of a Hermès Birkin made of orange crocodile embellished with palladium hardware 14 Weight in pounds of the world’s largest pearl, known as “The Pearl of Allah” or “Pearl of Lao Tzu” (6.4 kilograms)

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17 Standard American size for the biggest shoe ever worn by a human being.

80 Age of the world’s oldest working model, Daphne Selfe from Britain

1,220 Number of shoes abandoned

by Imelda Marcus when she left the presidential palace in 1986

US$12 million Price of “The Diamond Wedding Gown”

by Renée Strauss and Martin Kats

28 Number of fashion houses listed on the exclusive Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2008 (including guest members)

5 Number of Hermès handbags created per week by the brand’s Paris workshop

15 Age of fashion designer Kira Plastinina, daughter of Russian multi-millionaire Sergei Plastinina, when her first show was presented in Milan Fashion Week

1969

2009

Heavily influenced by the art deco movement of the thirties

Almost nothing surprises on catwalks.

Strong trend towards tribal and ethnic looks

Marked the end of five-tiered skirt over never ending layers of crinoline

Although crinoline is seen, we are definitely into feathers and natural patterns…

Decreed the death of embroidered blouses and bandannas Clothes became relaxed and eclectic: flower power and hippie style Shapes were based on the body Everything was wrapped. Remember Diane Von Furstenberg beginnings?

Big year for matching long and short.

Think of waistcoats with knee high boots Pants became wide! They plumbed down straight from the hip covering the shoes

Bandanna’s are in and not only for your head, so are fringes on shoes and bags (again!)

Wear whatever you feel like and it is always in fashion. Even that gladiator look we hate so much The body is a vehicle for you to show off.

In 2009 you don’t hide it DVF is back and commanding! As colorful and filled with transparencies as ever. We love her Knee length boots and waistcoats are as strong this year as in 1969 Pants are following the bodyline until the ankle and high heels complete the look.

Wide 60’s are so passé

Lust - Wearing a Victoria Secret’s bedroom gown to a cocktail party. You’ll look cheap.

Gluttony - Too much jewelry, lit up like a Christmas tree.

Greed - Caught shoplifting lipstick and perfume testers. How low can you go?

Sloth – Using the same black dress for several different occasions thinking you’ll get away with it.

Wrath - Buying smaller size clothes thinking you’ll fit them one day…

Envy – Staring at that beautiful party girl all night long. Get over it!

Pride – Feeling fulfilled because you are displaying that rented designer bag! Come on, get real. iii

feature

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Playing with humour and everyday objects,

Alexander McQueen presented an absurdist play in a theatre set against the backdrop of a recession.

Recycling old ideas and household pieces in times of crisis looked better than presenting ideas based on new luxury concepts. What better than to pick up your kitchen sink or abatjour and turn it into a fashion object?

This is why McQueen’s Fall/ Winter collection has mixed deluxe fabrics with mundane objects. Many themes and visuals from previous collections were re-used in his Paris show this year. Drama on the runway was all over the event, as always.

Reinventing was the key word. Drawing inspiration from classic cuts and ever present couturiers like Givenchy was a must, and making women look seriously dramatic reflected times of contention.

Even if one such piece comes with a price tag equivalent to that of your car. Who said art is cheap?

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Interview

The road to success One of the most recognizable brands in the world has a less charming history. Did you know that Vuitton only became very, very, very successful after his death? Here is a brief history of this fashion empire: Louis Vuitton was born August 4, 1821 and died February 27, 1892. He moved from his hometown of Anchury, in Jura, France in the 1830’s at the age of fourteen. Two years later, he arrived in Paris and started working with Monsieur Marechal making trunks. (He did not succeed at this until just before his death). He opened a luggage store in Paris in 1854, and started with designing flat luggage. His creations were lightweight, and were worn by France’s Empress Eugénie in their first year of sale. In 1860, Vuitton was forced to relocate, and he expanded due to increasing demand. In 1871 many of his works were already being copied. In 1892, Vuitton started selling handbags but on February 27th of that year he died. His son succeeded him in the business and that is when the company really started to grow and become what it is today. Macau Business asked LV in Macau, what the ‘must-have’ items are this summer.

In case you are thinking about a wardrobe renovation, here are some ideas…

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Which is the best selling LV handbag in Macau?

Galliera is the first best-seller.

Palermo is in second place and Tivoli is the third best-seller.

For the Spring/Summer collection, what are the novelties available in Macau’s LV stores?

Products launched in April that are very popular are the Judy Multicolore handbag and the Neverfull Damier (launched at the very end of April).

For products launched in June we highlight the Small leathergoods with the Multicolore collection: models with fresh, fruity and feminine color linings and we would underline the Keepall in Damier Azur ( Damier Azur is perfect for the summer season).

the Oxford Ballerina, a best-seller in both Hong Kong and Macau this season.

Customers prefer this line because it has LV’s very own signature, it is comfortable and also easy to match. It has a very comfortable outer sole and elegant upper. There is also a wide colour palette to choose from: black, white, rose, blue.

Another successful buy is the Plastic Flat Thong. These new flat thongs are completely made of plastic, very supple and comfortable. The in sock matches perfectly with our Travel Shopper bags. And the Kiwi Flat Thongs are a must-have this season, suitable for the warm summer weather! The new rubber outer sole provides extra comfort. A Monogram Denim version is also available.

What about shoes and accessories?

We would definitely highlight the Coconut Open Toe Mule. It is the “all time favourite” toe mule of our customers. It is also the first time we have put Monogram canvas on an elegant shoe. Its special patchwork of metallic leather, patent leather and canvas is an innovative design in LV women’s shoes. We also have

What about jewelry?

Fashion jewels launched in April are: Sweet Monogram in the My Heart line in glitter violet offering rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets.

There are also the sunglasses launched in March including the Divine model (one model in pink and the other model in dark glitter honey and grey glitter honey)

And the all time classic handbag a woman should/must have if she chooses LV? The Monogram Speedy

A-line gown - Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline into a full skirt. These gowns have a seamless waist.

Angora - The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit.

Ball gown - Characterised by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues to a formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various styles.

Blazer - A long-sleeved sports jacket with lapels Bolero jacket - A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front.

Carpenter pants/shorts - Five-pocket pants characterised by a “hammer holder,” a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.

Crepe - Used to describe all kinds of fabrics, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface.

Crinoline - Petticoats stiffened with horse-hair to enable the bell-like skirts of the early nineteenth century, that were eventually replaced with the bustle.

Double-tee top - A layered look with one T-shirt over another.

Empire waist - This waistline begins just below the bust.

Georgette - A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include dresses and blouses.

Gaucho - Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching midcalf and worn with boots.

Mandarin collar - A short, stand-up collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar.

Pinafore - Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a fashion piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse.

Princess seams - Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create a form-fitting shape.

Sarong skirt - Long cloth which is wrapped around the entire body.

Shelf bra - A bra that is built into the garment.

Tank top - A short, sleeveless top with wide armholes.

Wide legs - Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs. vii

Haute Couture

Fall/Winter Collection

Givenchy

Custom-fitted clothing is passé for many, but the truth is, it is only for a few lucky ones. By wearing a HC creation you ensure your gown or dress is unique, a perfect fit and, importantly, that it won’t be seen on someone else’s body. We’re not talking about custom-made suits in Thailand or Hong Kong’s Tsimshatsui, this is ‘high dress-making’, the real thing...

Elie Saab

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Dior

Dior

Valentino

Stephane Roland

Givenchy

Chanel

Chanel

Stephane Roland

Christian Lacroix

Elie Saab

Christian Lacroix

Armani Privé

Armani Privé

pret-a-porter

Fall/Winter Collection

4 Her

They may be made in a factory but don’t underestimate their power! We’re not talking Zara or Benetton! Not long ago fashion houses designed RTW to pay for their HC designs. This is not so much the case today, we know, but some of these pieces, although mass-produced, still have an exclusive tag with them. A little secret: many of the factories mass-producing some of these brands are right here, in the neighboring provinces. If you look hard, you can find some of these clothes in small shops downtown…

Calvin Klein

Nina Ricci

This year, for summer, wear colours and light fabrics (as always) but prepare yourself for the come back of shoulder pads! We don’t like it much, but almost everyone is doing it!

Alexander McQueen

Chloé Dior

Prada

Bottega Veneta

Hermès

Leonard

Louis Vuitton

John Galliano

Marni

Shiatzy Chen

Dior

BCBG Max Azria

Gucci

Valentino

Fatima Lopes

pret-a-porter Fall/Winter Collection

4 HIM

Custo Barcelona

Dunhill

Dunhill

Hermès

Custo Barcelona

John Galliano

Paul Smith

Hugo Boss

Paul Smith

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Hugo Boss

Hermès

Kenzo

icture the ladies from Sex and the City and you’ll get an idea of how fashion can awaken all the senses – and the wildest dreams! But it can also be a dictator and promote frustrating feelings among those not blessed with impossible bodies.

Is there a sexualisation of fashion? Deep down, yes, because in general what we wear is a wild call for others to look at us!

Sex has been a basic element of fashion since time began.

Today’s advertising campaigns are based on it more than ever. The ad-gurus depict men and women together, women and women together (insinuating...), men looking like women; or going down the Lolita road, under-aged models who look like grown up women trying to seduce men… Some campaigns even add animals to the whole idea of fashion. Now, what would Freud say of all this?

Take ‘Agent Provocateur’ designs – the more imaginative models are sold out even before they hit the stores. This is a brand that sells impossibly sexy lingerie with holes in places we haven’t even thought of (!) FYI: they have a presence in neighbouring Hong Kong airport, there if you feel the need for a special in-flight entertainment. And while you won’t see those little tiny pieces of heaven unless you get intimate, bear in mind there are thousands of ladies wearing ‘Agent Provocateur’ and walking around in our offices and streets.

Women feel stronger wearing them and they must be right!

Everything today in fashion is about power, seduction and sex. And the more cliches summoned the better. People identify with them. We love shoes! Shoes are officially the most common representation of a fetish, although there are many more. We’ll never guess all of them.

Meanwhile, more than men, women are asked to show off their bodies, either by hiding them or showing just enough (leaving the rest for the imagination), even if it means wearing uncomfortable items and walking with impossible shoes. For the majority, condescending to such impositions is a way of life that fulfills needs and meets ends. Who cares if it is too tight? Fashion allows us to live a fantasy life!

We love sexy lingerie: give us silk and transparency; naked shoulders covered with tumbling locks of hair; feet lightly exposed; a pair of shoes with strapping around the ankles; lips glossy and full; and the curves drawn by the thong - that’s the killer!

Although fashion for men is developing at full speed, some things never change - it should be enough for him to wear a tight t-shirt with wild hair and an old pair of jeans. Oh yes, gentlemen, underwear is not compulsory!

Christian Dior

Jimmy Choo

With more or less you will always be fine. This year they are supposed to be colourful and big. For summer choose ethnic designs and keep the leathers and browns for the fall/winter period.

We’d rather be more conservative and don’t exceed in colours – it is a smarter long-term investment and never goes out of fashion! Please note: belts are back!

Hermès

Chanel

Leonard Louis Vuitton

Christian Lacroix

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Oscar de la Renta

Hermès

Chloé

Alexander McQueen

Christian Lacroix Derek Lam

Shoes have gone overthe-knee and some even look like trousers. Skirts have become shorter, leading us to guess that the recession has made it more expensive to create long gowns! For those not so over-the-knee types we have some over-the-top heels suggestions.

Herve Leger

BCBG Max Azria

Prada

John Galliano

Dior

Louis Vuitton

ChloĂŠ

Fashionista

Alfred Dunhill 4S W Armani 4S Armani Collezioni 4S Autore 4S Bally 4S Bottega Veneta 4S Brioni 4S Brooks Brothers V Burberry 4S Canali 4S CARAT* V Cartier 4S Celine 4S Cerruti 1881 4S Chanel 4S W Chaumet 4S Chloe 4S Dior 4S Christian Dior 4S W Coach 4S V Cole Haan 4S Diane Von Furstenberg 4S Ed Hardy 4S Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna W Fabio Caviglia V Fendi 4S W Gieves & Hawkes 4S Giorgio Armani W Giuseppe Zanotti 4S Givenchy 4S Gucci 4S W Guess by Marciano 4S Hermes 4S W Hogan V Hugo Boss 4S W Hugo Boss OL V Jaeger-LeCoultre V JC Versace V Jimmy Choo 4S Juicy Couture 4S Kate Spade 4S Kent & Curwen 4S Kenzo 4S La Perla 4S Loewe 4S Louis Vuitton 4S W M. Missoni V Marc by Marc Jacobs 4S Max Mara 4S MIKIMOTO V Miu Miu W Paul & Shark V Prada 4S W Ralph Lauren 4S Roberto Cavalli Class 4S Salvatore Ferragamo 4S Shanghai Tang 4S Shiatzy Chen 4S St. John 4S Stefanel V Stefano Ricci 4S Stuart Weitzman 4S Tod’s 4S Tonino Lamborghini V Valentino 4S Versace 4S W Vilebrequin V 4S W V M

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The Shoppes at the Four Seasons Esplanade at Wynn Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian Mandarin Oriental

Shoppes | listing of luxury shopping arcades New Yaohan Department Store (853) 2872 5338 www.newyaohan.com The Shoppes at the Four Seasons (853) 8117 7800 www.shoppesatfourseasons.com The Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian (853) 2882 8888 www.venetianmacao.com Esplanade at Wynn (853) 2888 9966 www.wynnmacau.com Mandarin Oriental (853) 8793 3261 www.mandarinoriental.com/macau

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