Produce pride

This McStay isn’t going anywhere. Young butcher making waves on the island.

Philip HOPKINS

JAKE McStay, bornand raised in the Latrobe Valley, has been abutcherfor abouthalf his life.

The 31-year-old, with experience andyouth on his side,didn’t hesitatetobuy the classic ‘paddock-to-plate’ outlet,Island Primary Produce on Phillip island, when he had the chance. Located on amain road at Ventnor just west of Cowes, the business was started by Melbourne pair Tedand Chris Walsh back in 2002.

It was anovel concept: run your own farm withcattle, slaughter the cattle and sellthe various beef cuts from aretail outlet on your farmjust offthe main road. Cattle supplies were supplemented from other farms on the island and in Gippsland.

The business thrived.

However,it was arelentless life, having to be open for the growing number of customers -both local and visitors.

“Ted gottired; he had done his timeasa butcher,close to 40 years,” said Jake, who had done his butcher apprenticeship, aged 16,in Queensland after shifting therewith his parents as ayoungster

“I fellinto after-school work at abutcher shop cleaning up, never left -fell in love with it,” he said.

He was borninMoe and went to primary school in Morwell, but was back in Gippsland living in Drouin as abutcher when Tedoffered him ajob at Phillip Island.

“He approached me with ajob opportunity and that related to abuyingopportunity,” Jake said.

He and his wife Tania took the plunge five years ago and have not looked back.

The couple, who live in nearby Cowes, agist some land behindthe retail storewherethey run about 20 head of cattle.The rest of the farm,now used for horses, belongs to aBunyip person.

Jake and Tania too source the bulk of cattle and beef from the island and Gippsland, using the same suppliersasTed. Jake estimated about 30 per cent of the beef comes from island and 70 per cent from Gippsland.

“Welike aspecific weight and aspecific br as well. Ihave always been afan of Black Angus beef, purebredAngusbeef.Ifind it’s agood ageing beef for what we do here, consistent with age and the flavours I like,” he said.

“A lot of other beef can tend to lose a lot of condition over summer or winter in different seasons, whereas this type of cattle holds condition well, presents well when Iput it in the window.

“Weight -Ilike about 600kg liveweight, at about two to two-and-a-half yearso Anythingunder 600 live weight, dressed at 250, it loses too much eye size; porterhouse scotch fillet, they become too boney.”

The work is relentless.

“I have to be open all the time, seven days now,” he said. The shop is open at 7am closes at 5pm, sometimes longer in summer

“I’ve got three girls who rotate through seasons. Late at night and early mornings days -but it’s easy when Ihave the right around me; that’s abig key.

“Weare able to supply cattle to keep up demand. It drops offabit in winter, picks after Melbourne Cup Day and rises again.”

Jake estimated he would need up to 200 of beef ayear to guarantee supply.

He buys the cattle direct from the farmers, wherethey aretransported to the award-wi RadfordabattoirbetweenWarragul and Dr for slaughtering.