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Ta S t y S E L E C T I O N

A JOURNEY THROUGH FINE WINES

SUMMARY

BEHIND THE SCENES D O M A I N E S V I N S M O S EL L E

G U I LV I N EC L A N G O U S T I N E BY Y V E S M AT TAG N E / S EN S A

WILD SEA BASS FILLET BY PAU L F O U R I ER / L E R OYA L

B E E F W I T H R E D C H I L L I & TO N K A B E A N S BY J U L I EN LU C A S / L A VIL L A D E C A M I L L E & J U L I EN*

IMPRINT

CALISSON & QUINCE

DIVIN A M AG A Z I N E O F T H E “ Ta S t y s e l e c t i o n ” S E R I E S

BY PAU L B U N G ER T / M A L A N G U E S O U R I T * * 22

CHEESE C O M P L E X , C R E AT I V E , D EL I C I O U S

WINES & CHEESES P ER F EC T LY PA I R ED

K N OW L E D G E B I T E S T H E I D E A L C H EE S EB OA R D

R EC O M M E N DAT I O N S

O P E R AT I O N A L H E A D Q UA R T E R S 11 UM LENSTERBIERG L- 6 1 2 5 J U N G L I N S T E R RCS B191218

M U S T- H AV E S

EDITOR-IN- CHIEF BIBI WINTERSDORF

W I N E I N S T I T U T E (I V V )

COPY EDITORS M I K E S C OT T, R AC H E L Z AY E R

S U P P O R T I N G LU X E M B O U R G ’ S W I N E M A K ER S

T R A N S L AT I O N M I K E S C OT T, R AC H E L Z AY E R

G R A P E VA R I E T I E S

ART DIREC TOR MARC DOSTERT

LU X E M B O U R G ’ S W H I T E G R A P E S A QUICK GUIDE

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B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S AT D O M A I N E S V I N S M O S E L L E

FROM V INE TO BOT T LE As the country’s only winegrowers’ co-operative, Domaines Vinsmoselle has been considered Luxembourg’s leading wine producer for over one hundred years now. We visited this national institution for the grape harvest and followed the journey of the grapes from vine to bottle, to give you an exclusive and fascinating insight into the wine production process.

PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

he history of Domaines Vinsmoselle begins in 1921, when 25 winegrowers joined forces to found the first co-operative winery in Grevenmacher, as a means of pooling their resources and expertise. Over the years that followed, five more co-operatives were established along the Moselle: in Wormeldange, Greiveldange, Stadtbredimus, Wellenstein and Remerschen. In 1966, the co-operatives – with the exception of the Wormeldange winery, which joined later – merged to form ‘Domaines Vinsmoselle’. Today, the Domaines Vinsmoselle co-operative boasts 170 winegrowing families among its members. The co-operative’s main production sites are located in Grevenmacher, Wormeldange and Wellenstein, with the bottling centre based in Wellenstein and its Crémant development centre in Wormeldange.

TO T H E R H Y T H M O F N AT U R E “We work with nature, and have to adapt our work accordingly,” explains Josy Gloden, winegrower and President of Domaines Vinsmoselle. Here in his vineyard in Schwebsange, the beginning of October is a busy time. The grapes for the Crémant have already been harvested, and it’s now the turn of the Pinot varieties. A team of 22 people are working their way diligently through the rows of vines on the slopes. This happens surprisingly quickly – good organisation is the key here: “You have to organise the workers well and make sure there’s always someone strong at the end of the row to carry the crates.” After the

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“ W E W O R K W I T H N AT U R E , A N D H AV E T O A D A P T O U R W O R K A C C O R D I N G LY.” JOSY GLODEN

CHRISTMAS MENU

Pastry chef Paul Bungert, Gault&Millau’s pastry chef of the year 2024, has created a dessert centered around quince: a calisson made with almond paste between two thin layers of white chocolate, a shortbread for crunch, served on a quince juice and an almond milk crème anglaise. “We’re working almost entirely with local ingredients, using Luxembourgish quinces and quince vinegar from Ramborn,” notes the pastry chef. The local theme continues with the pairing of a Pinot Blanc, Schengen Markusberg, chosen by the sommelier for its dual character that mirrors the dessert. “We’ve achieved a true harmony between wine and dessert, as the Pinot Blanc has an indulgent, fruity side that pairs perfectly with the quince, while its terroir brings a minerality and freshness that complement the anise hyssop, like it is served in the restaurant.”

CALIS SON & QUINCE SERVES 4

RECIPE PAUL BUNGER T / M A L ANGUE SOURIT ** PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

2 HOURS

For the quince juice (175 g) • 500 g quince juice • 50 g sugar • 50 g quince vinegar

The quince juice

For the almond custard • 250 g almond milk • 50 g roasted slivered almonds • 90 g egg yolk • 70 g sugar

The almond custard

1 Bring all the ingredients to the boil for

about 30 minutes, until the juice has a syrupy consistency.

2 Weigh out 175 g in a silicone mould, taking

advantage of the heat of the mix to spread it around easily. Leave to cool in the fridge. The white chocolate mousse

1 Bring the almond milk and the roasted

slivered almonds to the boil. Pour over the blanched yolks. Cook through and strain. Remove and leave to cool. The shortbread pastry

For the shortbread pastry • 200 g butter • 161 g icing sugar • 76 g egg • 316 g flour • 64 g cornflour For the almond paste • 200 g almond paste For the quince fruit paste • 250 g quince paste • 350 g sugar • 7.5 g yellow pectin • 7.5 g acid solution (50/50 citric acid/water or lemon juice) For the white chocolate mousse • 300 g white chocolate • 500 g liquid cream • 2 sheets of gelatine For the quince gel • 500 g quince juice • 12 g agar • 150 g quince juice

1 Cream the butter with the icing sugar,

add the eggs one by one, then the sifted flour and cornflour. 2 Turn out the pastry onto the work surface, crimp and roll out between two sheets of baking paper to a thickness of 2.5 mm. Leave it to rest for 1 hour. 3 Afterwards cut it into the shape of a calisson and bake between two silpains (perforated silicone mats) at 145°C for 15 minutes. The almond paste 1 Roll out on a baking sheet to a

thickness of 2.5 mm, then cut to the size of the frame (5 mm squares). 2 Lay flat in the freezer.

1 Moisten the gelatine leaves. Make a fluffy

whipped cream with 350 g of cream. 2 Bring 150 g of liquid cream to the boil, stir

in the hydrated and drained gelatine, then make a ganache by pouring the hot cream and gelatine over the chocolate. Then fold the whipped cream into the ganache. The mixture should be warm, almost hot, otherwise the mousse will dissociate. 3 Weigh out 100 g of mousse, spread evenly with a palette knife, add the layer of almond paste (ensuring it has cooled off) then weigh out another 100 g of mousse, spread evenly before putting in the freezer. The quince gel 1 Bring the agar and half the quince juice to

the boil. Keep boiling for one minute while stirring vigorously. Add the rest of the juice and mix well. 2 Remove to a dish to cool. Once cold, blend with a thermomix (or other blender) and adjust the texture using some of the 150 g of quince juice. 3 Spread 175 g over the frozen mixture (of chocolate mousse and almond paste) and return to the freezer.

The quince fruit paste 1 Start by weighing out the sugar and

pectin, mixing well to avoid lumps. Add water and bring to the boil at 117°C (stirring occasionally to prevent the base from sticking and caramelising). Add the quince paste and cook to 120°C, stirring all the time. Add the citric acid solution to halt the cooking process.

Plating 1 Remove the entremet from the silicone

frame. Using a calisson-shaped pastry cutter, cut out the entremets and arrange them on the shortbread. 2 Arrange the different juices on a plate and carefully place the calisson on top. Finish the dessert with a quenelle of sorbet.

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WINE INSTITUTE (IV V)

SU PPORT ING LU X EM BOU RG’S W IN EM A K ER S The Wine Institute, or IVV for short, is a state organisation that not only performs a supervisory role, but also provides advice and assistance to wine producers in Luxembourg’s Moselle region.

PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

n the outskirts of Remich, behind the futuristic-looking Domaine Claude Bentz building, you’ll find an institution that is an indispensable ally for all Luxembourg winemakers: the Wine Institute (IVV). A government agency with a steadfast dedication and commitment to making Luxembourg wine the best ambassador for the Grand Duchy.

A DV I C E A N D G U I DA N C E In order to produce a product that is successful both within a country’s borders and beyond, it is vital to look after the land and the people who work it. “One of the IVV’s main tasks is to provide advice,” says Claire Sertznig, Communications Manager. “Our services are open to all winemakers.” The majority of the IVV’s services are free, and often a lifeline for winegrowers. “We also offer guidance. IVV employees visit vineyards to advise on soil cultivation and protecting vines. They also visit cellars to answer any questions regarding the winemaking process.”

RESEARCH AND TRIALS The IVV also excels as a research centre and carries out practical viticulture and oenology trials. “These often involve products that are very expensive. We test and monitor them,” says oenologist Doris Goethert, who is responsible for the trials. “We’re then able to advise those winemakers who want to use these products on their use, specification, dosage and reactivity.” The IVV thereby helps winemakers to avoid wasting resources and to save money.

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Claire Sertznig, Head of Communications Paul Thill, Wine Controller Doris Goethert, Oenologist Jean-Paul Risch, Master Winemaker

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L U X E M B O U R G ’ S W H I T E G R A P E VA R I E T I E S

A QU ICK GU IDE This guide details the main characteristics of each Luxembourgish white grape variety. Pinot Noir, the only truly prominent red grape in the country, accounts for 11% of the Grand Duchy’s total wine production, with other red varieties remaining on the margins.

E L BLIN G (5%)

PIN OT G R IS (1 6%)

With aromas of citrus fruit, gooseberry, green apple and pomegranate, this still wine, long unjustly regarded as merely a base wine for sparkling wines, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

This wine is the perfect accompaniment to both fine dining dishes and heartier fare. The acreage given over to cultivating this variety has doubled in the last 20 years. A grape variety that stands out for its pleasant acidity, freshness and minerality, which also reveals notes of citrus fruit, pear, dried fruit and nuts.

R I VANER (20 %) This fruity wine, with its pleasant acidity, apple, apricot and peach notes and spicy nutmeg overtones, is an easy drinking wine for everyday enjoyment.

AUX ERRO IS (15% ) Mild acidity, fresh, fruity and complex: This wine has an impressive aromatic palette ranging from melon, Mirabelle plum, quince, citrus and exotic fruits to floral and honey notes. A rather rare grape variety that produces particularly fine wines with a unique taste profile that is reminiscent of white Burgundy wines.

P I N OT BLA NC ( 13% ) Fresh citrus fruit and white floral aromas, notes of pineapple, pear and apple and a hint of almond make this still wine racy and fruity. When aged in oak barrels, the fruity notes give way to buttery, velvety overtones.

RIE SLING (1 3%) Whether as a dry wine, late vintage or ice wine, Riesling boasts a crisp acidity and a complex play of aromas (citrus and exotic fruits, apple, apricot, quince), all rounded off with an elegant minerality and spicy notes. Riesling is arguably Luxembourg’s best-known white grape variety.

GE W Ü R ZT R A M INE R (2 %) With its aromas of rose, lychee, peach, apricot, orange, grapefruit and honey and perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, Gewürztraminer offers an exceptional taste experience. Perfect as an aperitif.

CH AR DO NNAY (5%) Like Pinot and Auxerrois, Chardonnay is a grape variety from the Burgundy family. Its dry white wines are characterised by fresh citrus notes. This most noble grape variety is used in the production of sparkling wines.

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ST R AW W INE “It had been 5 or 6 years since I last made it, as it requires exceptionally healthy grapes and a lot of work,” explains Jean-Paul Risch, master winemaker at the IVV. “It’s a very noble wine made from Gewürztraminer. The grapes are dried on straw mats for 6 to 8 weeks.” This sweet wine, perfect for pairing with foie gras or blue cheese, can be cellared for nearly 20 years.

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ANTINORI

A V ISI T TO T HE SU PER T USC A NS Tuscany – the cradle of the Italian Renaissance, a modern-day mecca for fashion and culture and, above all, famous for its wines: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino and, of course, Chianti. The name ‘Antinori’ is virtually synonymous with Chianti. This aristocratic Florentine family boasts over 600 years of winemaking tradition. At the end of October, we had the pleasure of visiting the Antinori Estates in the heart of Italy’s Chianti Classico wine region and meeting Allegra Antinori, one of the three sisters currently running the family business, in her historic palazzo in Florence.

TEXT CHAREL HEINEN

raditionally firmly rooted in Tuscany, Antinori also operates vineyards in other Italian regions, including Umbria, Piedmont, Apulia and Lombardy. Antinori also has a presence in the vineyards of Napa Valley and Washington State in the USA, as well as in Chile. With a grand total of 15 wine estates in Italy and 20 joint ventures worldwide, this is a portfolio to be proud of. However, the name ‘Antinori’ adorns only wines from Tuscany, where the family has had a strong connection to viticulture since the Italian Renaissance. A remarkable document, still in the family’s possession today, bears witness to this: It dates from 1385, the year in which Giovanni di Piero Antinori officially became a member of the Florentine Winemakers’ Guild, marking the beginning of a long history in winemaking.

A TUSCAN RENAISSANCE Antinori made its first foray into the international market in the early 20th century, but business only really began to boom under the younger generation. Piero Antinori, the current Honorary President, took over the reins in 1966, at the tender age of 28, and

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“THE PERSON WHO R E A L LY G R E W T H E BUSINESS AND BROUGHT IT TO W H E R E I T I S T O D AY WA S M Y FAT H E R .” ALLEGRA ANTINORI

brought a breath of fresh air to the company, breaking with traditional norms and thereby revolutionising not only the family business, but also the entire Tuscan wine industry, including Chianti. Taking inspiration from France, he modernised winemaking techniques and introduced French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. In doing so, he defied the strict DOC regulations, which demanded a high proportion of Italian Sangiovese grapes, and created the ‘Tignanello’. Despite initial scepticism in Italy, these innovative wines quickly proved popular across the world. First released in 1978, the ‘Solaia’, a cuvée pressed mainly from French varieties, set a new standard and contributed to the birth of the ‘Super Tuscans’ – wines that deliberately dispensed with the formal DOC or DOCG classification in order to achieve Piero Antinori’s vision. These wines became icons of a new style of Italian wine, the quality of which had to meet the most stringent of standards, occasionally even leading to production being cancelled in less than ideal years.

FA M I LY M AT T E R S: I N T E RV I E W W I T H A L L EG R A A N T I N O R I The traditional family company is now in its 26th generation, with Piero’s three daughters – Albiera, Allegra and Alessia – at the helm. The eldest, Albiera, is President, while middle daughter Allegra is responsible for the hospitality division as Vice President. Alessia, also Vice President, heads up the Antinori Art Project, an initiative promoting contemporary art. “The person who really grew the business and brought it to where it is today was my father,” Allegra Antinori tells us as she welcomes us into her office in the historic Palazzo Antinori, an original Renaissance building from the 15th century. The front of the palazzo houses Cantinetta Antinori, an intimate restaurant and wine bar open to the public. Behind it are Antinori’s headquarters and the family’s private living quarters. On the floors above Allegra’s office, you can hear children running around – a reminder that this is both a place of business and a family home. “My father taught us from an early age that we should always serve the company and never exploit it for our own gains,” says Allegra. The Antinori sisters were all introduced to agricultural life and viticulture at an early age. “My sisters and I grew up in the countryside.