TaSty SELECTION 01 - DIVIN - 04/2024 - EN

Ta S t y S E L E C T I O N

A JOURNEY THROUGH FINE WINES

A Domaines Vinsmoselle brand.

vinsmoselle.lu

FROM GR A PEV IN E TO TA BLE I

n our anniversary year and with the festive season approaching, it seemed fitting to offer our readers a special gift this issue: a carefully compiled wine supplement dedicated to the discovery and enjoyment of wines from Luxembourg and beyond. The Luxembourg Moselle has been a hive of activity these past few months. Join us as we go behind the scenes at Domaines Vinsmoselle, Luxembourg’s leading wine producer, where we inspect the vines, destem the grapes and explore the cellars of this huge co-operative, the pride of the Grand Duchy.

With recipes from some of the country’s top chefs, you’ll learn how to pair Domaines Vinsmoselle’s exceptional wines with succulent langoustines, spicy beef and an exquisite dessert.

And as no special dinner would be complete without a cheese course, we share with you some tips for the perfect cheeseboard and the best Luxembourg wines to pair with your cheeses.

We also take you to the heart of the Moselle to visit the winegrowers’ best ally: the Wine Institute, or IVV. Here, we find out all about this national wine institution and its supervisory, advisory and PDO certification work.

While Luxembourg produces some wonderful wines, our French and Italian neighbours are also highly skilled winemakers. Travel with us to the Mediterranean sun and to Domaine de la Baume, between Perpignan and Montpellier, and savour the aromas of the South. Discover even more Pinot Noir treasures on a visit to Domaine Maillard, producer of the prestigious Nuits-Saint-Georges. A little closer to home, we uncork the delicate bubbles of the Crémant d’Alsace from Maison Arthur Metz. Finally, KACHEN transports you to Tuscany, to the Antinori Estates and the ancestral home of the Antinori winegrowing family, where we delve into this family business with a long tradition.

Everything you need to become a real wine connoisseur and impress your guests!

I N C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H

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SUMMARY

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BEHIND THE SCENES D O M A I N E S V I N S M O S EL L E

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G U I LV I N EC L A N G O U S T I N E

BY Y V E S M AT TAG N E / S EN S A

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WILD SEA BASS FILLET

BY PAU L F O U R I ER / L E R OYA L

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B E E F W I T H R E D C H I L L I & TO N K A B E A N S

BY J U L I EN LU C A S / L A VIL L A D E C A M I L L E & J U L I EN*

IMPRINT

CALISSON & QUINCE

DIVIN A M AG A Z I N E O F T H E “ Ta S t y s e l e c t i o n ” S E R I E S

BY PAU L B U N G ER T / M A L A N G U E S O U R I T * * 22

CHEESE C O M P L E X , C R E AT I V E , D EL I C I O U S

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WINES & CHEESES P ER F EC T LY PA I R ED

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K N OW L E D G E B I T E S T H E I D E A L C H EE S EB OA R D

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R EC O M M E N DAT I O N S

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B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S AT D O M A I N E S V I N S M O S E L L E

FROM V INE TO BOT T LE As the country’s only winegrowers’ co-operative, Domaines Vinsmoselle has been considered Luxembourg’s leading wine producer for over one hundred years now. We visited this national institution for the grape harvest and followed the journey of the grapes from vine to bottle, to give you an exclusive and fascinating insight into the wine production process.

PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

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he history of Domaines Vinsmoselle begins in 1921, when 25 winegrowers joined forces to found the first co-operative winery in Grevenmacher, as a means of pooling their resources and expertise. Over the years that followed, five more co-operatives were established along the Moselle: in Wormeldange, Greiveldange, Stadtbredimus, Wellenstein and Remerschen. In 1966, the co-operatives – with the exception of the Wormeldange winery, which joined later – merged to form ‘Domaines Vinsmoselle’. Today, the Domaines Vinsmoselle co-operative boasts 170 winegrowing families among its members.

The co-operative’s main production sites are located in Grevenmacher, Wormeldange and Wellenstein, with the bottling centre based in Wellenstein and its Crémant development centre in Wormeldange.

TO T H E R H Y T H M O F N AT U R E “We work with nature, and have to adapt our work accordingly,” explains Josy Gloden, winegrower and President of Domaines Vinsmoselle. Here in his vineyard in Schwebsange, the beginning of October is a busy time. The grapes for the Crémant have already been harvested, and it’s now the turn of the Pinot varieties. A team of 22 people are working their way diligently through the rows of vines on the slopes. This happens surprisingly quickly – good organisation is the key here: “You have to organise the workers well and make sure there’s always someone strong at the end of the row to carry the crates.” After the

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“ W E W O R K W I T H N AT U R E , A N D H AV E T O A D A P T O U R W O R K A C C O R D I N G LY.” JOSY GLODEN

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“EVEN THE SLIGHTEST CHANGE I N T E M P E R AT U R E C A N D I C TAT E W H E N YO U N E E D T O H A R V E S T T H E G R A P E S .” J O S Y G L O D E N

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Pinot varieties come the Riesling grapes – the last to be harvested. When exactly which vines are ripe for harvesting depends not only on the grape variety, but also on the microclimate of the respective vineyard: “Even the slightest change in temperature can dictate when you need to harvest the grapes. It can happen as quickly as overnight, so it’s vital to keep a constant watchful eye on the temperature and vines.”

After the harvest, the winegrowers can put up their feet for a while. Until all the leaves have fallen from the vines and it’s time to prune them before winter descends on the Moselle: “We cut off older, unproductive branches, leaving a healthy main branch on which younger, fruitful shoots can grow again in spring,” explains Gloden.

Nature slumbers over winter and there’s less work for the winegrowers to do. In spring, the vineyard comes back to life. “When nature awakens at the beginning of spring, the vines are guided up the wires to optimise the leaf-to-fruit ratio,” says Gloden. “This promotes photosynthesis and enables nature to do its job.”

P R OT EC T I N G T H E V I N E S – AND THE PL ANET! The co-operative’s winegrowers draw on a combination of preventive measures and the targeted use of approved synthetic substances to keep their vines healthy. Fungal diseases such as peronospora (downy mildew), oidium (powdery mildew) and botrytis (grey mould) are a particular cause for concern in wet years, as rain transfers the spores to the plants and facilitates their spread. In summer, mechanical defoliation is another technique deployed by the winegrowers to protect the vines – this removes leaves so that the grapes are better ventilated and dry more quickly, thereby reducing the risk of fungi.

The aim is to be as sustainable and environmentally friendly as possible. “We never spray insecticides,” says Gloden, “instead we use pheromone dispensers on every fifth vine stock in every second row, which disrupts the insects’ reproductive cycle.” No herbicides are generally ever used either. Instead, weeds are kept in check in the vineyard mechanically, using special brushes for example.

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F R O M V I N E YA R D TO C E L L A R We leave the vineyard in Schwebsange and follow the harvested grapes to the winery in Wellenstein. Here, we meet Bernd Karl, Technical Director of Domaines Vinsmoselle. Karl knows the wine production process inside out.

“Making wine is actually very simple – all you really need are great grapes and fermentation to go to plan,” he smiles. In Wellenstein, cellar master Matthias Lambert ensures that everything runs smoothly, while a few kilometres down the Moselle in Grevenmacher, the task falls to Charlène Muller, Luxembourg’s only female cellar master. But when you consider the long journey that the grapes still have ahead of them from here, it’s hard to believe that the process of winemaking can be quite as easy as Karl suggests.

The next stop en route is must tasting, where the sugar content and weight of the grapes delivered are tested – two key factors when it comes to determining how much the winegrowers are to be paid. The grapes first pass through a fully automatic destemmer, which removes the stems.

The grape berries are then pressed. The pomace produced here is subsequently composted and reused in the vineyards.

Several pneumatic presses work in unison in the modern winery. “Crémant is pressed from whole grapes, while grapes for other types of wine are crushed first,” says Karl. The presses – horizontal stainless steel tanks with an inflatable pressure system – facilitate extra gentle pressing. “This is important to ensure that only the best juices are extracted and to minimise any bitter compounds from the seeds and skin,” reveals Karl.

After pressing, the crucial clarification phase begins, during which pulp particles and other insoluble matter are filtered out of the grape juice. “A clear juice is essential for slow, controlled fermentation,” says Karl. Clarification is carried out using either the traditional method of sedimentation or the more modern method of aeration and gelatine.

During fermentation, specific yeasts are used depending on the respective grape variety.

“Spontaneous fermentation can, of course, result in interesting aromas, but these can mask the natural taste of the grape variety, and we don’t usually want that to happen,” explains Karl. But, as we all know, there are exceptions to every rule:

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“ M A K I N G W I N E I S A C T U A L LY V E R Y S I M P L E – A L L YO U R E A L LY N E E D A R E G R E AT G R A P E S A N D F E R M E N TAT I O N T O G O T O P L A N .”

BERND KARL

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The Domaines Vinsmoselle cellar team has created a Riesling from spontaneous fermentation from the 2023 and 2024 vintages. The wine is off-dry, i.e. slightly sweet, but with all the typical characteristics of a Riesling. This year, it has also ventured into orange wine. Unlike other spontaneously fermented wines, orange wine closely follows the method for the production of red wine: The grapes are fermented on the skins, with the berries slightly crushed. This prolonged contact with the grape seeds gives the wine its characteristic tannins and complex exotic fruit notes.

A C O - O P E R AT I V E O F Q UA L I T Y The historic cellars in Wellenstein, which date back to 1930 and were once used exclusively for storing wooden barrels, are now fully-equipped with state-of-the-art stainless steel technology.

Only the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are still matured in traditional oak barrels, which are replaced every three to four years.

The co-operative is always open to new trends: “We constantly strive to produce wines that meet market demand,” says Karl. In addition to organic wine, the co-operative has also been producing non-alcoholic wines for the past three years. New products are first trialled on a small scale. “The great thing about being such a large producer with such a broad range of varietals, technology and expertise is that we have something for everyone,” Karl tells us.

What is so special and unique about Domaines Vinsmoselle is the intensive involvement of its winegrowers throughout the entire production process. “There are co-operatives abroad where winegrowers simply deliver their grapes and then have nothing more to do with them. But that’s not how we work: We are not a co-operative, but rather a winegrowers’ co-operative!” says Karl. The co-operative’s statutory Technical Commission plays a central role in its wine production. Even before the harvest, it carries out a ‘bonitur’ – a quality inspection of the vineyards to ensure the vines meet the requirements for the production of premium wines. The twelve-member panel – consisting of the President, cellar masters and one winegrower from each winery – then meets every Wednesday from January to taste the wines. “36 to 38 wines are tasted blind every week,” says Karl. The wines are evaluated according to a strict set of criteria, with the panel analysing

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the characteristics of the vintage and comparing them with previous vintages. Every wine that is to be bottled as a Cru or AOP wine must be checked by the Technical Commission and achieve a specific minimum score. The best wines of the vintage are also selected through this process, for submission to international competitions and to be benchmarked against other winegrowers.

F R O M T H E C E L L A R TO T H E WO R L D

“ W E H AV E S O M E T H I N G F O R 9 9 % OF PEOPLE , AND WE’ LL COME UP WITH SOMETHING FOR THE REMAINING 1% , TOO! ” BERND KARL

Despite this year’s wet summer and the associated challenges, Domaines Vinsmoselle is optimistic about the coming vintage. Cellar master Charlène Muller tips us off on her favourite: “We’re still in the early stages, but the Pinot Gris is already looking very fruity and balanced.” As per tradition, the wines from this vintage are set to launch on 1 May, and will then gradually find their way to beverage suppliers, shops and restaurants.

Domaines Vinsmoselle produces an extensive range of wines and crémants, which it markets under four main brands: Les Vignerons de Domaines Vinsmoselle, POLL-FABAIRE, Château Edmond de la Fontaine and VIGNUM. Each brand embodies different facets of Moselle wine culture. There are also two smaller niche brands, Jongwënzer and Charta Schengen Prestige, which focus on regional specialities and limited editions.

With 14 different varieties of grape – including classics such as Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois and rare varieties such as Elbling and Gewürztraminer – Domaines Vinsmoselle has the strength of diversity to produce wines and Crémants encompassing a broad spectrum of aromas and characteristics. “We have something for 99% of people,” says Technical Director Bernd Karl at the end of our visit. “And we’ll come up with something for the remaining 1%, too!”

Domaines Vinsmoselle’s main market is Luxembourg, but exports to the Greater Region – Germany, France and Belgium – and the USA also contribute to its international presence. In addition to its role as Luxembourg’s only winegrowers’ co-operative, Domaines Vinsmoselle is also a renowned ambassador for Luxembourg wine and culinary culture beyond the country’s borders.

V I N S M O S E L L E . LU/E N

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For this exquisite Christmas menu starter, two-Michelin-starred Belgian chef Yves Mattagne of ‘La Villa Lorraine’ (Brussels) brings his signature flair to the table. Mattagne, who is set to take the helm at SENSA – the flagship restaurant of the luxury Anatura hotel opening in early 2025 overlooking the Weiswampach Lakes in northern Luxembourg – has crafted a dish that perfectly marries land and sea. In an interesting twist on his usual creative process, Mattagne reveals: “Normally, I create the dish first and then find the perfect wine to match. But this time, it was while sampling the Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes 2023 that inspiration struck.” The result is a masterful combination of sweet, plump Guilvinec langoustine and earthy porcini mushrooms, finished with a delicate emulsion of sweet Cévennes onions and liquorice. “The Auxerrois carries wonderful aromas of white fruits with subtle spicy notes,” Mattagne explains. “Its palate strikes that perfect balance between richness and freshness – exactly the lift I was looking for to complement this dish.”

GUILVINEC L ANG OUS TINE SERVES 4

R EC I P E Y V E S M AT TAG N E / S E N S A PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

90 MINUTES

• 4 langoustines • 15 g clarified butter For the onion emulsion • 400 g white Cévennes onions • 500 ml chicken stock • 500 ml water • 15 g clarified butter • 15 g grape seed oil • 50 ml Talisker whisky

• 80 g unsalted butter • 1 sprig of thyme • 1 bay leaf • 500 g coarse salt • Pepper

• 1 garlic clove • 1 bay leaf • 30 g chopped flat-leaf parsley • Salt • Pepper

For the porcini mushrooms • 400 g porcini mushrooms • 50 g unsalted butter • 1 sprig of thyme

For the liquorice oil • 20 g liquorice root extract • 100 g grape seed oil

The langoustines

The porcini mushrooms

1 Gently pan-fry the langoustines in clarified butter

1 Dice the cleaned porcini mushrooms into neat 1 cm

until just warmed through, keeping them raw in the centre. Season with salt and pepper.

2 Meanwhile, create a bed of coarse salt on a baking tray and nestle the whole, untreated Cévennes onions into it. Bake at 180°C for one hour, then remove and allow to cool.

cubes. Melt the butter in a pan over a medium heat.

2 Add the thyme, garlic and bay leaf, then sauté until

the mushrooms are golden brown and fragrant.

3 Season well with salt and pepper, finishing with fresh

parsley just before serving.

The liquorice oil

The onion emulsion 1 Quarter the peeled onions and sweat them in a sauté

pan with clarified butter, grape seed oil, thyme and the bay leaf until lightly coloured. Flambé with whisky, then pour in the chicken stock and water.

Simmer gently until you have a clear, flavourful liquid. Strain through a fine chinois, reduce by two-thirds, then strain again.

2 Just before serving, heat the onion reduction and whisk in the butter with a stick blender until emulsified. Finish with a splash of whisky and adjust the seasoning.

1 Combine the liquorice extract and grape seed oil

in a vacuum bag and seal.

2 Heat in a bain-marie or oven at 60°C for one hour,

then set aside until needed.

To plate 1 Using a round cutter, create a neat bed of diced porcini

on each plate. Place a langoustine on top, then drizzle the liquorice oil decoratively around the plate.

2 Crown each langoustine with crispy onion tempura and garnish with shaved porcini and a nasturtium flower (optional).

3 Serve the hot onion emulsion on the side in a warm saucière.

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“I wanted to combine beautiful wild sea bass with parsnip purée – a winter vegetable with a rather distinctive taste – and enliven it with a ginger and soy sauce,” explains chef Paul Fourier. This Christmas dish invites us on a journey while showcasing a somewhat forgotten but seasonal vegetable, the parsnip. The wild sea bass is pan-seared and cooked until tender at its core for a beautifully soft texture. Pairing this dish with the Riesling Grevenmacher Paradäis creates a ‘perfect match’, according to Le Royal’s sommelier Corentin Dubé. “This Riesling is a crisp, mineral white wine that pairs perfectly with fish. Its other, more expressive and distinctive side marries beautifully with the fuller-flavoured meat jus.” Worth noting: this Riesling was named wine of the year 2025

by Gault&Millau, adding further excellence to the culinary experience.

One bite of this dish, one sip of this wine, and you’re transported to another place.

R E C I P E PAU L F O U R I E R / L E R OYA L PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

WILD SE A BAS S FILLE T SERVES 4

45 MINUTES

• 4 sea bass fillets (80 g each), cut from the back • 300 g parsnips • 1 parsnip for chips • 400 ml meat stock • 500 ml single cream

• 50 ml soy sauce • 100 ml sweet soy sauce • 100 ml rice vinegar • 100 ml ginger syrup • 1 crushed garlic clove • 20 g fresh grated ginger

• Groundnut oil • Mixed herbs (coriander, mint, cher vil, etc.)

• Salt • Pepper

The ginger and soy meat jus

The parsnip chips

1 In a saucepan, reduce the soy sauce, ginger

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Peel the parsnip and slice thinly.

syrup, vinegar and sweet soy sauce with the garlic and ginger.

2 Add the meat stock. Reduce by half and finish with 100 ml single cream. Season with black pepper to taste.

2 Brush the slices with oil. Spread them on a baking tray

lined with parchment paper, ensuring they don’t overlap.

3 Bake for about ten minutes until golden brown.

Remove from the oven.

The sea bass

The parsnip purée 1 Peel the parsnips and cut into cubes.

1 Cook the fish in a pan with groundnut oil, skin-side

first. Turn and finish cooking for 5 minutes.

2 Cook the parsnips in 400 ml single cream in a

saucepan. Once cooked, drain and blend until smooth. Add some of the cooking cream if needed to adjust consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

To plate 1 Place the parsnip purée in the centre, lay the sea bass

on top and pour the sauce around. Garnish with parsnip chips and herbs.

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“I wanted to extend summer with this dish, while creating a link to the approaching winter,” explains Julien Lucas when describing his creation. The Michelinstarred chef of La Villa de Camille et Julien combines the warmth of red chilli with the sweetness of tonka beans. “The Angus beef is glazed with tomato juice and seared on the barbecue.” Pairing this dish with the Pinot Noir Château Edmond de la Fontaine, Vintage 2022, was an obvious choice. “Its chocolate notes pair perfectly with the tonka beans, and inspired me to add the spicy note of red chilli, which will bring warmth to a Christmas meal.” The choice of Château Edmond de la Fontaine, named after the Luxembourgish poet who once stayed at Stadtbredimus castle (headquarters of Domaines Vinsmoselle), was also a beautiful reference for Julien Lucas. “A chef also seeks poetry in his dishes, combining the right flavours on the plate with the perfect wine pairing.”

RECIPE JULIEN LUCAS / L A VILL A DE CAMILLE ET JULIEN* PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

BEEF WITH RED CHILLI & TONK A BE ANS SERVES 4

1 HOUR

• 400 g sirloin steak For the pickled onions • 50 g small white pearl onions • 100 g white wine vinegar • 50 g sugar • 50 g water

For the chilli mayonnaise • 1 egg yolk • 5 g strong mustard • 5 g red chilli powder • 250 ml sunflower oil For the potato gnocchi • 500 g potatoes • 50 g butter

• 2 tonka beans • 1 egg yolk • 1 egg For the barbecue potato foam • 1 kg potatoes • 500 ml cream (30% fat)

The sirloin steak

The gnocchi

1 Sear the sirloin on the barbecue (or pan-fry it)

1 Bake the potatoes wrapped in foil. Once cooked, peel and

until rare.

The pickled onions 1 Peel and halve the pearl onions. Separate the layers

pass the flesh through a fine sieve. Add the butter and eggs, then season with salt. Form into a sausage shape and cut the gnocchi to your preferred size. Cook in simmering salted water. They are ready when they float to the surface.

and set aside in a suitable container.

2 Bring the water, vinegar and sugar to the boil.

Remove from the heat and pour over the onion layers. Leave to cool.

The mayonnaise 1 Make mayonnaise by mixing the egg yolk with

mustard, then gradually adding the sunflower oil.

Finally, season with salt and pepper and red chilli powder to taste.

The barbecue potato foam 1 Wrap the potatoes in foil and cook in the barbecue embers.

Once cooked, peel and place in a container. Heat the cream and pour over the potatoes. Blend everything and pass through a muslin-lined chinois. Adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a siphon and charge twice with gas.

To plate 1 Mix the mayonnaise with the onion petals, slice the sirloin

into thick pieces and, in a separate bowl, add the gnocchi, grate the tonka beans and topped with potato foam.

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Pastry chef Paul Bungert, Gault&Millau’s pastry chef of the year 2024, has created a dessert centered around quince: a calisson made with almond paste between two thin layers of white chocolate, a shortbread for crunch, served on a quince juice and an almond milk crème anglaise. “We’re working almost entirely with local ingredients, using Luxembourgish quinces and quince vinegar from Ramborn,” notes the pastry chef.

The local theme continues with the pairing of a Pinot Blanc, Schengen Markusberg, chosen by the sommelier for its dual character that mirrors the dessert. “We’ve achieved a true harmony between wine and dessert, as the Pinot Blanc has an indulgent, fruity side that pairs perfectly with the quince, while its terroir brings a minerality and freshness that complement the anise hyssop, like it is served in the restaurant.”

CALIS SON & QUINCE SERVES 4

RECIPE PAUL BUNGER T / M A L ANGUE SOURIT ** PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

2 HOURS

For the quince juice (175 g) • 500 g quince juice • 50 g sugar • 50 g quince vinegar

The quince juice

For the almond custard • 250 g almond milk • 50 g roasted slivered almonds • 90 g egg yolk • 70 g sugar

The almond custard

1 Bring all the ingredients to the boil for

about 30 minutes, until the juice has a syrupy consistency.

2 Weigh out 175 g in a silicone mould, taking

advantage of the heat of the mix to spread it around easily. Leave to cool in the fridge.

The white chocolate mousse

1 Bring the almond milk and the roasted

slivered almonds to the boil. Pour over the blanched yolks. Cook through and strain. Remove and leave to cool.

The shortbread pastry

For the shortbread pastry • 200 g butter • 161 g icing sugar • 76 g egg • 316 g flour • 64 g cornflour For the almond paste • 200 g almond paste For the quince fruit paste • 250 g quince paste • 350 g sugar • 7.5 g yellow pectin • 7.5 g acid solution (50/50 citric acid/water or lemon juice) For the white chocolate mousse • 300 g white chocolate • 500 g liquid cream • 2 sheets of gelatine For the quince gel • 500 g quince juice • 12 g agar • 150 g quince juice

1 Cream the butter with the icing sugar,

add the eggs one by one, then the sifted flour and cornflour.

2 Turn out the pastry onto the work surface, crimp and roll out between two sheets of baking paper to a thickness of 2.5 mm. Leave it to rest for 1 hour.

3 Afterwards cut it into the shape of a calisson and bake between two silpains (perforated silicone mats) at 145°C for 15 minutes.

The almond paste 1 Roll out on a baking sheet to a

thickness of 2.5 mm, then cut to the size of the frame (5 mm squares).

2 Lay flat in the freezer.

1 Moisten the gelatine leaves. Make a fluffy

whipped cream with 350 g of cream.

2 Bring 150 g of liquid cream to the boil, stir

in the hydrated and drained gelatine, then make a ganache by pouring the hot cream and gelatine over the chocolate. Then fold the whipped cream into the ganache.

The mixture should be warm, almost hot, otherwise the mousse will dissociate.

3 Weigh out 100 g of mousse, spread evenly with a palette knife, add the layer of almond paste (ensuring it has cooled off) then weigh out another 100 g of mousse, spread evenly before putting in the freezer.

The quince gel 1 Bring the agar and half the quince juice to

the boil. Keep boiling for one minute while stirring vigorously. Add the rest of the juice and mix well.

2 Remove to a dish to cool. Once cold, blend with a thermomix (or other blender) and adjust the texture using some of the 150 g of quince juice.

3 Spread 175 g over the frozen mixture (of chocolate mousse and almond paste) and return to the freezer.

The quince fruit paste 1 Start by weighing out the sugar and

pectin, mixing well to avoid lumps. Add water and bring to the boil at 117°C (stirring occasionally to prevent the base from sticking and caramelising).

Add the quince paste and cook to 120°C, stirring all the time. Add the citric acid solution to halt the cooking process.

Plating 1 Remove the entremet from the silicone

frame. Using a calisson-shaped pastry cutter, cut out the entremets and arrange them on the shortbread.

2 Arrange the different juices on a plate and carefully place the calisson on top. Finish the dessert with a quenelle of sorbet.

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CHEESE

CHEESE IN A LL I TS GLORY Ever wondered what’s in cheese? The answer is simple: goat’s, sheep’s or cow’s milk, water and salt, plus enzymes and rennet (a substance produced in the rennet-bag of young ruminants) which help the milk to curdle. The cheese is then left to ripen for anything from a few days to several years.

CHEESE

G OAT ’ S C H E E S E S

SHEEP’S CHEESES

Cheeses made from goat’s milk can either be fresh or very dry, depending on how long they are ripened. They are best enjoyed with a confit to counterbalance their sometimes very dry flavour. To achieve an optimal balance, opt for a confit with flavours reflecting the terroir in which the goats are farmed.

Sheep’s cheeses are matured for just a few weeks. These are seasonal cheeses whose flavour is influenced by what the animals eat. The sheep are often farmed in regions with hot summers and very cold winters, which has an impact on the flavour of the milk.

B LO O MY- R I N D CHEESES

UNCOOKED PRESSED CHEESES

COOKED PRESSED CHEESES

S O F T WA S H E D - R I N D CHEESES

Cheeses in this family are pressed during production but not subsequently cooked. They are ripened for anything from a few weeks to a year, and the longer the ripening process, the stronger (or even spicier) they taste. Examples: Reblochon, Pecorino, Mimolette.

These are the most widespread mountain cheeses made with cow’s milk, whose success may be explained by their firm texture and mildly fruity flavour, which many people love. Wheels of these cheeses can weigh over 100 kg! Examples: Gruyère, Comté, Beaufort.

Don’t be fooled – they may have been given a ‘wash’, but they have lost none of their powerful odour!

This family includes some of the strongest-smelling cheeses, although their flavour on the palate is much less intense. Examples: Maroilles, Langres, Époisses.

The term “bloomy-rind” alludes to the slightly downy white layer that forms over the cheese when a mould solution (containing Penicillium Camenberti) is sprayed onto it during the ripening process. Examples: Camembert, Brie, Chaource.

B LU E-V E I N E D CHEESES

FO LLOW T HE G U IDE!

You either love them or loathe them! Did you know that the mould in Roquefort is produced by adding stale bread?

This contains the bacterium Penicillium Roqueforti which gives the mould its blue colour.

Examples: Roquefort, Bleu d’Auvergne, Gorgonzola.

A tasting should always start with the mildest and freshest cheeses and progress to more intense flavours. Goat’s or sheep’s cheese makes a good starter, followed by a bloomy-rind cheese like Brie and then a pressed cheese like Comté. You should always end on the strongest cheeses. That way, you can savour each aroma throughout the tasting, without more powerful flavours dominating from the outset.

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W IN ES & CHEESES Do you ever wonder which wines to serve with different cheeses? The choice is vast, from Riesling, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc to straw wine. Here’s a practical guide to the best cheese pairings for white wines in the Domaines Vinsmoselle VIGNUM range.

AU X E R R O I S

P I N OT G R I S

BECH-KLEINM ACHER NAUMBERG

WELLENS TEIN FOUL SCHE T TE

Auxerrois Grand Premier Cru Bech-Kleinmacher Naumberg is a fruity and spicy wine with honey and smoky aromas. It is highly complex and stands out for its exceptional finesse due to an oily and elegant finish.

The smoky, fruity nose is typical of a Pinot Gris, and also exudes aromas of dried fruit and honey.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G This creamy wine with pleasant acidity pairs well with all cheese varieties.

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T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G This wine is ideal when treating your dinner guests to a raclette!

WINE SELECTION

CRÉMANT VIGNUM

RIESLING

CUVÉE BRUT

VIEILLES VIGNES

This Crémant, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay partly matured in oak barrels, makes a sparkling pairing for the entire cheeseboard. It’s a must for anyone who love their fizz!

This Riesling exhibits minerality and flinty, ripe lemon and liquorice aromas. It is produced from over 35-year-old vines planted in limestone soil in the east of the Luxembourg Moselle winegrowing region.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G The best way to enjoy this Crémant is with Gruyère double cream.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G This highly mineral wine is the perfect pairing for goat’s cheese (either plain or with fruit) or sheep’s cheese.

P I N OT B L A N C

RIESLING

BECH-KLEINM ACHER ENSCHBERG

SCHWEB SANGE KOLTESCHBERG

FÛT DE CHÊNE

WILD -FERMENTED

This Grand Premier Cru exhibits all the characteristics you’d expect from a Pinot Blanc, with its pear aromas and vanilla and floral notes.

It is matured in oak barrels, giving it woody notes that make this wine round, rich and perfectly balanced with remarkable length in the mouth.

This Riesling, produced through wild fermentation by natural yeasts, contains high levels of residual sugar and delights the palate with its pleasant balance between sweetness and acidity.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G It can be paired with everything on the cheeseboard and also goes well with a cheese fondue.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G Enjoy with blue-veined cheeses such as Roquefort. A fruity wine is needed to counterbalance the strong flavour of the cheese, and this Riesling is the perfect choice.

S T R AW W I N E

ORANGE WINE

AUXERROIS OR RIESLING

The ‘straw’ in straw wine refers to the bed of straw on which the grapes are dried for several months. Once fermented, the straw-dried grapes make for an outstanding, sweet aromatic wine with intense expressions and subtle nuances.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G Enjoy this wine with ‘spicy’ cheeses like Munster.

The Chardonnay grapes used to make this wine are first crushed before a maceration phase is carried out. Prolonged contact between the must and the wellripened, sun-soaked grapes bestows this wine with an aromatic complexity that is dominated by candied fruit notes and tannin-rich.

T H E P E R F EC T PA I R I N G This wine makes a highly original pairing for aromatic cheeses like Roquefort and Comté.

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KNOWLEDGE BITES

CHEESES & WINES

THE PERFECT CHEESEBOARD H A N DY H I N T S

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• • •

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Cheese should be taken out of the fridge and kept at room temperature two hours before consumption.

Cheese should be stored in the bottom of the fridge, ideally under a cloche or in the paper used by the cheesemonger to wrap it (this special paper helps preserve its aromas and moisture).

Use different types of knives for different cheese varieties: a cheese wire for blue-veined cheeses, a wide-bladed knife for hard cheeses and a slotted knife for soft cheeses.

Truffle cheeses should be enjoyed at the end of a meal.

CHOICE OF BREAD Each cheese variety can be paired with a different type of bread.

Bread with hazelnuts or walnuts makes the perfect pairing for a sheep’s or goat’s milk Tomme.

Bread with figs should be enjoyed with blueveined cheeses such as Roquefort.

A nice, crispy baguette is the ideal accompaniment to soft bloomy-rind cheeses.

A loaf that goes well with everything: farmhouse sourdough bread.

• • • •

K É I S & WÄ I N D U D E L A N G E

K É I S & WÄ I N

You can find these cheeses and their wine pairings at Kéis & Wäin in Dudelange, the partner shop of Domaines Vinsmoselle and Formaticus.

2 P L AC E A M D U ER F L-3 4 3 6 D U D EL A N G E

R EC O M M E N DAT I O N S

G R ÉG O RY C L A I N & C L A R I S S E M I C H A L EC S I X S E V EN

C L AU D E R A M E AU D E PEF F ER K A ER

VIGNUM

VIGNUM

PINOT BL ANC

PINOT GRIS

BECH-KLEINM ACHER

MERTERT ROSENBERG

ENSCHBERG

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FÛT DE CHÊNE 202 2

Grégory Clain and Clarisse Michalec, sommeliers at restaurant SixSeven, pair up to tell us about this wine: “This very fine Pinot Blanc is a crowd-pleaser with something to delight everyone at the table throughout the meal. On the surface, it appears rather simple, and has a fruity, appetising side to it that makes it perfect as an aperitif. However, it’s also well-suited to more complex dishes, as it has been matured in oak casks. To accompany a red mullet with lemon and marjoram sauce, this Pinot Blanc ticks all the boxes.”

Claude Rameau, sommelier at Restaurant de Pefferkaer, has been serving his customers wine from the VIGNUM range for the past six years. “This is a highly fruit-driven Pinot Gris produced from vineyards in Mertert Rosenberg. A delightful array of exotic fruit flavours unfolds in the mouth, and the wine develops Mirabelle plum aromas when it ages. I’d recommend pairing this wine with fish such as redfish or our revamped pot-aufeu. It also works really well with a nice plate of cured meat or veal.”

SOMMELIER’S TIP

SOMMELIER’S TIP

This is a wine best decanted a few hours before tasting.

Use a decanter-aerator with this wine to bring out its flavours.

F LO R E N T L E V Y- B E N C H E TO N MA L ANGUE SOURIT

T H I E R RY C O R O N A & G U I L L AU M E G R A B I S C H LES ROSES

CHARTA SCHENGEN

VIGNUM

PRE S TIGE

RIESLING

RIESLING

GRE VENM ACHER FEL S

2011

2021

Florent Levy-Bencheton, sommelier at Ma Langue Sourit, makes no secret of his soft spot for this Riesling. “In Luxembourg, it’s hard to find wines that have been aged so long, as there’s a misconception that these wines don’t age well. However, this 2011 vintage has reached a nice plateau of maturity.” He goes on to enthuse about its beautiful aromatic complexity that has developed over the years, making it a completely different beast to a young Riesling. “In the mouth, there are undergrowth notes of mushrooms, alongside which the primary fruit aromas persist.” This wine makes an ideal pairing for seafood dishes with lovely creamy sauces.

Thierry Corona, sommelier at Les Roses for the last 37 years, remembers the first time he tried this wine. “I was very excited, as it got everything you look for in a great Riesling: purity, minerality and elegance. Its citrus undertones combine with a minerality that leaves you feeling as if you’ve licked a stone.” Guillaume Grabisch, Thierry’s young protégé, describes the wine as a Riesling that breaks the usual mould. “It’s different from other Rieslings, there’s not too much petroleum in the nose. I particularly like the freshness you get in the mouth and that stony aspect that gives the wine its elegance and freshness.”

Both recommend it with a scallop carpaccio and citrus fruit.

SOMMELIER’S TIP

SOMMELIER’S TIP

Open the bottle one hour before tasting, pour out a little wine to allow gentle aeration.

This wine ages exceptionally well and can be kept for 10 or even 20 years.

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M U S T- H AV E S

PER FECT GIF T BOX ES FOR EV ERYON E The end-of-year holidays are the perfect opportunity to spoil our loved ones with beautiful gifts, and what better present idea than a bottle that can be savoured in good company over a nice meal. The gift sets from Domaines Vinsmoselle will delight all wine lovers. The hardest part will be choosing.

M U S T- H AV E S

VIGNUM Crémant Box – €29.95 • 1 bottle of VIGNUM crémant

CULT Box – €24.25 • 1 bottle of CULT brut crémant

Découverte Terroir Box – €58.50 • 3 bottles of Pinot Gris or Riesling

4 Accessories Box – €32.50 • Bottle of Pinot Noir with anti-drip Bacchus collar, aerating spout, universal cork, sommelier knife

Magnum Box (150 cl) – €35.50 • 1 bottle of Pinot Noir Rouge Magnum in a wooden box

Magnum Box (150 cl) • Pinot Blanc – €39.35 • Pinot Gris – €41.50 • Riesling – €41.50

1 2 3

1 Sweet Wine Box – €29.95 • 1 bottle of Pinot Gris Grand Premier Cru sweet wine • 1 bottle of Gewürztraminer Grand Premier Cru sweet wine 2 Fair’n’Green Box – €33.95 • 1 bottle of Cuvée Blanc BIO • 1 bottle of Riesling Premier Cru Côtes de Remich • 1 bottle of Riesling Premier Cru Côtes de Grevenmacher 3 Non-Alcoholic Wine Box – €26.65 • 1 bottle of non-alcoholic wine • 1 bottle of non-alcoholic sparkling wine

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R E P O R TAG E

WINE INSTITUTE (IV V)

SU PPORT ING LU X EM BOU RG’S W IN EM A K ER S The Wine Institute, or IVV for short, is a state organisation that not only performs a supervisory role, but also provides advice and assistance to wine producers in Luxembourg’s Moselle region.

PHOTOS MARC DOSTERT

O

n the outskirts of Remich, behind the futuristic-looking Domaine Claude Bentz building, you’ll find an institution that is an indispensable ally for all Luxembourg winemakers: the Wine Institute (IVV). A government agency with a steadfast dedication and commitment to making Luxembourg wine the best ambassador for the Grand Duchy.

A DV I C E A N D G U I DA N C E In order to produce a product that is successful both within a country’s borders and beyond, it is vital to look after the land and the people who work it. “One of the IVV’s main tasks is to provide advice,” says Claire Sertznig, Communications Manager. “Our services are open to all winemakers.” The majority of the IVV’s services are free, and often a lifeline for winegrowers. “We also offer guidance. IVV employees visit vineyards to advise on soil cultivation and protecting vines. They also visit cellars to answer any questions regarding the winemaking process.”

RESEARCH AND TRIALS The IVV also excels as a research centre and carries out practical viticulture and oenology trials. “These often involve products that are very expensive. We test and monitor them,” says oenologist Doris Goethert, who is responsible for the trials. “We’re then able to advise those winemakers who want to use these products on their use, specification, dosage and reactivity.” The IVV thereby helps winemakers to avoid wasting resources and to save money.

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R E P O R TAG E

Claire Sertznig, Head of Communications Paul Thill, Wine Controller Doris Goethert, Oenologist Jean-Paul Risch, Master Winemaker

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R E P O R TAG E

Tasting room, test tanks, classic vats, sample storage, laboratory... everything takes place at the heart of the IVV in Remich.

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R E P O R TAG E

F U T U R E VA R I E T I E S Research is also being conducted elsewhere: On the 5.5 hectares of state-owned vineyards, grape varieties never before seen in Luxembourg are being cultivated and tested. “Climate change means that new, adaptable varieties could be cultivated in Luxembourg’s terroir and microclimate. Like Souvignier Gris – a PiWi [Editor’s note: grape varieties that are cross-bred, which makes them more resistant] similar to Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc.”

It remains to be seen whether Luxembourg’s naturally cautious consumers will be prepared to embrace these ‘newfangled’ grape varieties.

THE WINE L AB The IVV also boasts a large laboratory. With its pipettes, tubes, microscopes and technicians, the institute is the driving force behind the ‘Appellation d’Origine Protégée’ (protected designation of origin, or PDO) quality label. “As soon as the grape harvest begins, the winemakers bring us the first must of their harvest. We check the acidity, residual sugar and pH value. These analyses give the winemakers a more precise idea of the expected specificity of each wine,” explains IVV wine inspector Paul Thill.

A further series of checks may be carried out to monitor the development of the young wines. Finally, one last analysis is performed to confirm whether or not the wine qualifies for the PDO seal of quality.

A P R O F E S S I O N A L TA S T I N G PA N E L This final phase is carried out by a seven-member tasting panel made up of representatives of the winemakers, the Luxembourg Consumer Protection Association (ULC), Horesca (the national hotels, restaurants and cafés association) and IVV officials. This organoleptic test determines whether or not the wine tasted meets the strict criteria for the appellation. Wines seeking to be marketed with the ‘AOP - Moselle Luxembourgeoise’ label must receive a minimum score of 12/20 from five of the seven panel members.

According to the IVV, the success rate is “very satisfactory every year, thanks to good professional training and the quality awareness of producers”.

The IVV works with a total of 250 winegrowers/producers and 65 winemakers (some 170 winegrowers belong to the Domaines Vinsmoselle co-operative).

VINS-CREMANTS.LU

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R E P O R TAG E

The State’s 5.5 hectares of vineyards are used for trials as well as small-scale production of domestic wines, served exclusively at state receptions and crafted by Jean-Paul Risch, the master winemaker.

A C LE A R M A R K O F Q UALIT Y To guarantee that a wine marketed under the ‘Moselle Luxembourgeoise’ PDO complies with the conditions set out in the PDO specification, a red, white and blue label bearing the words ‘Vins de Luxembourg’ is affixed to the bottle. This reassures consumers at a glance that they are getting a quality product.

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R E P O R TAG E

THE STA R S OF LU X EMBOURG’S V INEYA R DS The – mostly white – grapes that thrive along the Moselle are transformed into a variety of fine wines that showcase the outstanding expertise of Luxembourg’s winemakers.

We take you on a journey through the country’s vineyards to discover the local grape varieties.

S

ome ten famous grape varieties are grown in Luxembourg’s Moselle region, and wine lovers can name them all. That said, these big names in grapes take centre stage in just 64% of the vineyards along the Moselle, and are not the only varieties billed ‘PDO’ (protected designation of origin). The label ‘Appellation d’Origine Protégée – Moselle Luxembourgeoise’ (or PDO), which attests to the quality of a wine based on the terroir in which it is produced, is an accolade bestowed on a wealth of other, lesser-known, yet equally talented grape varieties. Like the Saint Laurent – a traditional red grape reintroduced into Luxembourg’s vineyards in the 2000s. This means that ‘traditional’ varieties (Elbling, Rivaner, Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir) face strong competition for the leading role on Luxembourg’s tables.

A L I N E- U P O F G R A P E S TO WATC H Growing more or less quietly behind the scenes are a host of minor varieties awarded the Luxembourg Moselle PDO: Lemberger, Cabernet Blanc, Cabernet Cortis,

Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Noir, Dakapo, Elbling Rouge, Gamaret, Helios, Johanniter, Merlot, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir Précoce, Pinotage, Pinotin, Regent, Rondo, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Solaris, Sylvaner and Zweigelt. All superb quality Luxembourg wines and crémants produced in the PDO geographical region that stretches 42 kilometres along the banks of the Moselle, on the border with Germany, from south of Schengen to north of Wasserbillig.

FO U R A P P E L L AT I O N S Wines that pass the PDO quality controls (approximately 98% of Luxembourg wines on the market) bear one of four appellations, providing information on their terroir and characteristics: ‘Lieu-dit’, for terroir wines from the best vineyards. ‘Coteaux de’, for premium wines made from grapes from the renowned vineyards that surround the villages in the cantons of Remich and Grevenmacher. ‘Côtes de’, for harmonious entry-level wines.

‘Crémant de Luxembourg’, for certified quality sparkling wines – the star of the show.

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R E P O R TAG E

L U X E M B O U R G ’ S W H I T E G R A P E VA R I E T I E S

A QU ICK GU IDE This guide details the main characteristics of each Luxembourgish white grape variety. Pinot Noir, the only truly prominent red grape in the country, accounts for 11% of the Grand Duchy’s total wine production, with other red varieties remaining on the margins.

E L BLIN G (5%)

PIN OT G R IS (1 6%)

With aromas of citrus fruit, gooseberry, green apple and pomegranate, this still wine, long unjustly regarded as merely a base wine for sparkling wines, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

This wine is the perfect accompaniment to both fine dining dishes and heartier fare. The acreage given over to cultivating this variety has doubled in the last 20 years. A grape variety that stands out for its pleasant acidity, freshness and minerality, which also reveals notes of citrus fruit, pear, dried fruit and nuts.

R I VANER (20 %) This fruity wine, with its pleasant acidity, apple, apricot and peach notes and spicy nutmeg overtones, is an easy drinking wine for everyday enjoyment.

AUX ERRO IS (15% ) Mild acidity, fresh, fruity and complex: This wine has an impressive aromatic palette ranging from melon, Mirabelle plum, quince, citrus and exotic fruits to floral and honey notes. A rather rare grape variety that produces particularly fine wines with a unique taste profile that is reminiscent of white Burgundy wines.

P I N OT BLA NC ( 13% ) Fresh citrus fruit and white floral aromas, notes of pineapple, pear and apple and a hint of almond make this still wine racy and fruity. When aged in oak barrels, the fruity notes give way to buttery, velvety overtones.

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RIE SLING (1 3%) Whether as a dry wine, late vintage or ice wine, Riesling boasts a crisp acidity and a complex play of aromas (citrus and exotic fruits, apple, apricot, quince), all rounded off with an elegant minerality and spicy notes. Riesling is arguably Luxembourg’s best-known white grape variety.

GE W Ü R ZT R A M INE R (2 %) With its aromas of rose, lychee, peach, apricot, orange, grapefruit and honey and perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, Gewürztraminer offers an exceptional taste experience. Perfect as an aperitif.

CH AR DO NNAY (5%) Like Pinot and Auxerrois, Chardonnay is a grape variety from the Burgundy family. Its dry white wines are characterised by fresh citrus notes. This most noble grape variety is used in the production of sparkling wines.

R E P O R TAG E

ST R AW W INE “It had been 5 or 6 years since I last made it, as it requires exceptionally healthy grapes and a lot of work,” explains Jean-Paul Risch, master winemaker at the IVV. “It’s a very noble wine made from Gewürztraminer. The grapes are dried on straw mats for 6 to 8 weeks.” This sweet wine, perfect for pairing with foie gras or blue cheese, can be cellared for nearly 20 years.

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ADVERTORIAL

A N ICON IC ESTAT E SINCE 1880 For over a century, Domaine de la Baume has upheld a winemaking tradition and produced captivating wines with strong aromatic potential.

L

ocated in the heart of Languedoc-Roussillon, in the small village of Servian, between Béziers and the medieval town of Pézenas, the Domaine de la Baume estate is a true source of inspiration. A peaceful haven in the midst of nature, it embodies the warmth of the South, togetherness, sharing, and a deep love of the land.

A single road leads you to the magnificent wrought-iron gate, adorned with a “J” and a “P” in honor of Jean Prat, its founder.

The history of Domaine de la Baume began in 1880 when the Prat family, passionate about viticulture, set out on a mission to make the estate renowned. At the time, the vineyard had been left fallow following the phylloxera epidemic. Jean Prat had a charming house dubbed ‘La Folie’ built on the estate, which would remain the symbol of the property over the course of time. For around twenty years, with the help of his sons, Jean Prat played a key role in raising the profile of the estate’s wines and made significant investments in the vineyard, replanting 100 hectares. n 1900, he opened a shop selling Domaine de la Baume wines on the famous Boulevard Haussmann in Paris, providing an outstanding showcase for the estate. Later, when he became too old to run it himself, he passed the estate on to his sons, along with his passion for the viticulture.

Two generations of owners followed, and in 1990, the story took a new turn with the arrival of the Hardy family, originally from Australia. The Hardys brought with them more than just their expertise – they introduced a new mindset. In their efforts to restructure the vineyard, they planted international grape varieties.

They also initiated night harvesting and introduced modern winemaking and ageing techniques, which allowed the creation of styles that were both distinctive and retained the grapes’ integrity.

OU R VA LU ES PASSIO N At Domaine de la Baume, a team of passionate individuals with a love of winegrowing works tirelessly every day to ensure the estate’s continued success.

E X P ERT ISE Our know-how encompasses both our ‘viticulture and oenology’ technicians’ expert knowledge of the terroir and a raft of modern winemaking techniques.

IDENT IT Y One of our main priorities on the estate is to highlight the richness of our terroir, which we channel into producing unique wines.

R E SP EC T All our work is carried out in harmony with nature. At harvest time, the land then repays us for all our care and attention over the years.

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ADVERTORIAL

A T ER R O IR T HAT R EVEA LS ITS SEC R ETS

OU R W I N EM A K I NG PROCESS

A

fter a year of hard work, the long-awaited harvest finally arrives. The decision on the harvest date for each plot is crucial to ensuring the grapes are picked at their optimal ripeness, resulting in premium quality wines. At Domaine de la Baume, harvest and winemaking follow a strict parcel-based selection process. This means that each plot is harvested and vinified separately to preserve the typicity and character of each grape variety.

The estate spans over 216 hectares with a highly diverse selection of grape varieties.

These include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne, Cinsault, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir.

C LIM AT E Domaine de la Baume is blessed with a Mediterranean climate, which means mild winters and hot summers.

The region benefits from abundant sunshine, balanced with occasional strong winds.

Rainfall is irregular throughout the year, with most rain occurring in the spring and autumn, which leads to optimal growth and maturation of the grapes.

SO IL The soils on which Domaine de la Baume’s vines are planted are highly varied: the semihilly areas are made up of limestone pebbles, while the plateaus consist of clay-limestone and clay-sandy soils. This rich terroir allows us to produce wines spanning a wide aromatic palette, with styles ranging from convivial to subtle and refined.

C O N TAC T JOHANN CHIODINI J O H A N N .C H I O D I N I @ LG C F. F R +3 5 2 6 61 9 0 1 0 5 6 DOMAINE-L ABAUME .COM

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ADVERTORIAL

Behind every exceptional bottle of wine lies a great deal of savoirfaire and a few well-guarded secrets. We’ll let you in on some of ours.

NIG HT HA RVE ST ING To preserve the fruit’s aromas during the harvest. Domaine de la Baume was one of the first estates in Languedoc to practise night harvesting.

PAR C E L-BASE D SE LEC T IO N To maintain the typicity and character of each grape variety.

“ W E A P P LY O U R E X P E R T I S E A N D UTMOST CARE TO E ACH OF OUR PA R C EL S TO E X P R E S S T H E F U L L POTENTIAL OF THEIR UNIQUE QUALITIES .”

M A R I E TO U S S A I N T, O EN O LO G I S T

A WIDE VARIETY OF GRAPE EXPRESSION To create wines that offer a broad aromatic range.

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ADVERTORIAL

A SPECI A L LOC AT ION Domaine Moillard is located in Nuit-Saint-Georges in the heart of Burgundy and covers 10 hectares, mainly in the Côte de Nuit wine region.

T

he estate’s vineyards are located in the north of the Côte d’Or, stretching between Dijon in the north and Corgoloin in the south. The Côte de Nuits is unique in Burgundy for its great red wines produced at a high latitude. Thanks to its continental climate of hot summers and dry autumns and limestone soils, Burgundy’s grape varieties flourish.

R E S P EC T FO R EC O SYS T E M S A N D V I N E S , A F U N DA M E N TA L VA LU E The vines are cultivated using integrated viticulture methods, with treatments limited to what is strictly necessary, respecting biodiversity and adapting to each parcel depending on the vintage. Yields are controlled throughout the estate and the harvest date is carefully determined to ensure that the grapes are perfectly ripe. The estate has been HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) certified since 2021.

C O N TAC T JOHANN CHIODINI J O H A N N .C H I O D I N I @ LG C F. F R +3 5 2 6 61 9 0 1 0 5 6 MOILLARD.FR

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ADVERTORIAL

MAISON MOILLARD

T H E A RT OF M A K I NG A N D T R A DI NG W I N E

O

ur expertise as a buyer and winemaker extends to all our sites. Our oenologists, in partnership with 130 winegrowers, source their grapes and musts with the winegrowers throughout the year to strict specifications.

We work with our winegrowers to determine the best time to harvest. When the moment comes, we put the grapes in small crates to prevent them from settling and oxidising. These are then delivered quickly to the winery.

“ T O D AY, O U R W I N E S A R E GENEROUS, MODERN, ACCESSIBLE AND TRUE TO THE DIVERSIT Y OF B U R G U NDY ’ S TER R O IR S .”

WO R K I N G T H E V I N E S , A K E Y S TAG E

BAPTISTE CORROT OENOLOGIST MAISON MOILL ARD

H A RV E S T I N G W I T H C A R E

At Moillard, working the vines is of paramount importance. Sustainable viticulture, controlled yields, respecting and tending carefully to the vines: these are the secrets to quality grapes and exceptional products.

O U R W INEM AK ING ST YLE : T HE SEAR C H FO R T YP IC IT Y By favouring parcel-based vinification and long vatting periods during which the oenologist intervenes as little as possible, we seek the expression of terroirs, deep colors and good concentration through well-controlled extraction. This brings structure and power to the wines, giving them good ageing potential.

At Moillard, each parcel is vinified and matured according to its specific needs.

W INE S R EP R ESENT ING T HE M O SA IC O F B U R G U NDY T ER R O IR S Building on its expertise as a wine merchant and grower, Moillard now offers wines from regional appellations to the most prestigious Grands Crus, as well as the most famous Villages and Premier Crus, making the entire Greater Burgundy wine region accessible to all.

Moillard also has strong roots in Chablis, with a dedicated vinification site at Ligny-Le-Châtel.

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ADVERTORIAL

M O ILLA R D C R ÉM A NTS DE B O U R G O G NE , HO NE D EX P ERT ISE Renowned for its still wines, Moillard is also acclaimed for its Crémants de Bourgogne. These are made from parcels chosen for their distinctive character and rich aromas.

Each cuvée is then carefully matured in a cellar earmarked specifically for Crémants de Bourgogne.

• Grapes from parcels chosen for their typicity and aromatic richness within our Domaines and the vineyards of partner winegrowers for several years.

• Meticulous har vesting to preser ve as much as possible of the grapes, their freshness, vivacity and aromas.

• Vinification, ageing, disgorging and bottling carried out by us on our site dedicated solely to the production of our Crémants de Bourgogne in Ligny-Le-Châtel.

“FIRST AND FOREMOST A S TO RY O F PA S S I O N , OUR CRÉMANTS DE BOURGOGNE ARE MADE WITH RESPECT FOR TRADITION A N D K N OW- H OW, TO O FFER YO U A N U N F O R G E T TA B L E TA S T I N G E X P E R I E N C E .”

MIKAEL FUCHS OENOLOGIST CRÉMANTS DE BOURGOGNE

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A FA M ILY STORY Our winery, located at the gateway to the Alsace Wine Route in Marlenheim, embodies 120 years of savoir-faire and respect for terroirs and traditions, combined with the ambition to innovate.

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he Metz family’s winegrowing journey began in 1904, in the commune of Epfig, in the heart of Alsace’s vineyards.

A winegrower in this village until the 1950s, and later a wine producer and merchant in the famous Bercy cellars in Paris, Mr. Arthur Metz returned to his native village in 1972 to expand the family business. He succeeded in making it one of the largest and most prestigious estates in Alsace.

In 1991, the Metz family sold the business to the Helfrich family, who have continued writing the story of and developing the winery ever since. In 1997, Arthur Metz expanded by joining forces with Maison Laugel, another large, prestigious winery founded in 1895 and based in Marlenheim. Built around passionate men and women, Maison Arthur Metz now boasts over 1,000 hectares of vineyards in which sustainable viticultural practices are fully integrated. This gives us all the assets we need to create wines and crémants that respect the environment, express their origins and terroirs and combine modern winegrowing techniques. In recent decades, the company has strengthened its winemaking and harvesting activities, and now owns 85 hectares of vineyards, directly producing 15 Alsatian Grands Crus from different terroirs and grape varieties.

P U T T I N G P EO P L E AT T H E H E A R T OF OUR BUSINESS Over the years, Arthur Metz has forged an indestructible bond between its winemakers and consumers, who are all lovers of great wines. For decades, we have been building lasting relationships with our grape suppliers. More than just a business partnership, we support them on a day-to-day basis to maintain the highest standards of vineyard and wine quality.

At Arthur Metz, know-how has been passed on, shared and constantly improved since 1904.

Because people are at the heart of our business, Maison Arthur Metz is first and foremost made up of teams of passionate, committed men and women. It is thanks to this passion and commitment that we are able to produce wines and crémants of the highest quality.

C O N TAC T JOHANN CHIODINI

O U R CO M M ITM ENTS We focus our efforts on our terroirs, the environment and preserving the typicity of each individual Alsace appellation.

We pay particular attention to preserving their unique character by ensuring that the right balance is struck between exposure, soil composition and the grape variety planted. We work on a parcel-byparcel basis, to respect and reveal the richness of each terroir.

Concerned about what we pass on to our children, we are committed to a global approach to good viticultural practices.

Our entire vineyard is HVE3 (Haute Valeur Environnementale) certified.

This certification indicates that we are committed to respecting biodiversity and reducing the use of inputs in our agriculture, as well as working to preserve and restore our planet’s rare and precious resources.

In line with this approach, we have made a strategic choice for the future of our vineyards: the Maison Arthur Metz estates are in the process of converting to organic farming.

J O H A N N .C H I O D I N I @ LG C F. F R +3 5 2 6 61 9 0 1 0 5 6 ARTHURMETZ.COM

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A TRAILBL AZING WINERY

SAVOI R-FA I R E A N D V ISION

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n ability to challenge ourselves, adapt to new consumer styles, use innovative viticultural techniquesand harness our creativity – this is what Maison Arthur Metz stands for. We strive to embody this spirit.

Inventing new ways to enjoy Alsace wines and crémants, while respecting regional tradition, enables our company to grasp market trends and gives us the opportunity to forge new ones! For example, the ICE cuvée launched in 2014 is the first ICE crémant designed to be served with ice cubes, a revolutionary innovation offering enthusiasts a unique way to enjoy crémant. Combining tradition and modern techniques, teams at Maison Arthur Metz passionately craft cuvées every day to reveal the best of Alsace and forge future trends.

VINIFICATION: OUR APPROACH Our distinctive style of wine and aromas have been developed up over the decades. We work on a parcel-by-parcel basis to preserve the identity of each terroir. While our preference is for dry wines, we’re not to be outdone when it comes to medium-dry and dessert wines! We work rigorously on the freshness and acidity of our wines, especially sweet and syrupy varieties, to preserve their balance.

O U R P R O P ERT IES Maison Arthur Metz is committed to the highest standards when implementing the complex processes involved in winemaking, from vine cultivation to logistics, vinification and bottling. Today, Maison Arthur Metz is firmly rooted in Alsace’s vineyards with its three estates, and manages 85 hectares of vineyards spanning the whole of the Alsace region, from north to south. These 85 hectares include eleven prestigious grand cru terroirs and numerous renowned lieux dits. Each of these properties reveals a different facet of the diverse Alsatian terroir and offers styles in harmony with the local biotypes. We use our expertise to get the best out of the terroir and tend to our vines with the utmost care.

From pruning to tillage and weed management, our teams adapt and create an alchemy between themselves and the terroir to bring you wines that are modern, elegant and structured.

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estion g g u s IL A COCKT ant z • 9 cl Crém ter for Sprit it B i r o v a F • 6 cl Le • 3 cl Tonic Slice • 1 Orange

Based on traditional French know-how, our liqueur brings out the richness of the orange and its multiple aromatic notes to perfect your creations, from the most classic to the most original.

A heritage that evokes memories of yesteryear, sharing and inventiveness.

D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY

R E P O R TAG E

ANTINORI

A V ISI T TO T HE SU PER T USC A NS Tuscany – the cradle of the Italian Renaissance, a modern-day mecca for fashion and culture and, above all, famous for its wines: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino and, of course, Chianti. The name ‘Antinori’ is virtually synonymous with Chianti. This aristocratic Florentine family boasts over 600 years of winemaking tradition. At the end of October, we had the pleasure of visiting the Antinori Estates in the heart of Italy’s Chianti Classico wine region and meeting Allegra Antinori, one of the three sisters currently running the family business, in her historic palazzo in Florence.

TEXT CHAREL HEINEN

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raditionally firmly rooted in Tuscany, Antinori also operates vineyards in other Italian regions, including Umbria, Piedmont, Apulia and Lombardy. Antinori also has a presence in the vineyards of Napa Valley and Washington State in the USA, as well as in Chile. With a grand total of 15 wine estates in Italy and 20 joint ventures worldwide, this is a portfolio to be proud of. However, the name ‘Antinori’ adorns only wines from Tuscany, where the family has had a strong connection to viticulture since the Italian Renaissance. A remarkable document, still in the family’s possession today, bears witness to this: It dates from 1385, the year in which Giovanni di Piero Antinori officially became a member of the Florentine Winemakers’ Guild, marking the beginning of a long history in winemaking.

A TUSCAN RENAISSANCE Antinori made its first foray into the international market in the early 20th century, but business only really began to boom under the younger generation. Piero Antinori, the current Honorary President, took over the reins in 1966, at the tender age of 28, and

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“THE PERSON WHO R E A L LY G R E W T H E BUSINESS AND BROUGHT IT TO W H E R E I T I S T O D AY WA S M Y FAT H E R .”

ALLEGRA ANTINORI

brought a breath of fresh air to the company, breaking with traditional norms and thereby revolutionising not only the family business, but also the entire Tuscan wine industry, including Chianti. Taking inspiration from France, he modernised winemaking techniques and introduced French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

In doing so, he defied the strict DOC regulations, which demanded a high proportion of Italian Sangiovese grapes, and created the ‘Tignanello’. Despite initial scepticism in Italy, these innovative wines quickly proved popular across the world. First released in 1978, the ‘Solaia’, a cuvée pressed mainly from French varieties, set a new standard and contributed to the birth of the ‘Super Tuscans’ – wines that deliberately dispensed with the formal DOC or DOCG classification in order to achieve Piero Antinori’s vision. These wines became icons of a new style of Italian wine, the quality of which had to meet the most stringent of standards, occasionally even leading to production being cancelled in less than ideal years.

FA M I LY M AT T E R S: I N T E RV I E W W I T H A L L EG R A A N T I N O R I The traditional family company is now in its 26th generation, with Piero’s three daughters – Albiera, Allegra and Alessia – at the helm. The eldest, Albiera, is President, while middle daughter Allegra is responsible for the hospitality division as Vice President. Alessia, also Vice President, heads up the Antinori Art Project, an initiative promoting contemporary art. “The person who really grew the business and brought it to where it is today was my father,” Allegra Antinori tells us as she welcomes us into her office in the historic Palazzo Antinori, an original Renaissance building from the 15th century. The front of the palazzo houses Cantinetta Antinori, an intimate restaurant and wine bar open to the public.

Behind it are Antinori’s headquarters and the family’s private living quarters. On the floors above Allegra’s office, you can hear children running around – a reminder that this is both a place of business and a family home.

“My father taught us from an early age that we should always serve the company and never exploit it for our own gains,” says Allegra. The Antinori sisters were all introduced to agricultural life and viticulture at an early age.

“My sisters and I grew up in the countryside.

© S A R A M AT T H E W S

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We were constantly surrounded by agriculture, be it grapes, olives or grain.”

Although at first the division of roles was no easy task, the siblings eventually found their way to working well together. “It’s difficult trying to find your place. But all three of us got there in end, without too many fallouts,” laughs Allegra. The sisters are big advocates of open and honest communication: “We keep the channels open and know we can talk to each other about anything. That’s vital for understanding each other and working effectively together.” She cites downto-earthness, inquisitiveness and respect as the core values that characterise Antinori. The key to success, she says, is a balanced mix of the three: “The advantage of running a family business is that you can plan for the long term across several generations,” Allegra tells us. Albiera, Allegra and Alessia Antinori, the current generation, are already paving the way for the next generation to carry on the company’s 600-year legacy and break new ground. All three sisters have two children, and the two eldest are already working in the family business.

Luxair offers direct flights to Florence on Tuesdays (01.04.25-09.11.25), Thursdays (06.03.25 -09.11.25) and Sundays (06.03.25-09.11.25).

LUXAIR.LU

ANT INO R I NEL C HIA NT I C LASSICO In 2012, the family inaugurated its new Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery, which stands proudly as a monument in the heart of the family’s ancestral land. Built from natural, local materials, the impressive modern building by architect Marco Casamonti blends seamlessly into the hilly Tuscan landscape. The fully functioning winery is not only used for winemaking, but is also designed as a museum that offers guided tours and wine tastings. It also houses offices, contemporary art exhibitions and an exquisite restaurant.

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